Re: [RBW] Re: Sam Hillborne Frame Fitment Update

2014-04-09 Thread ted
Patrick,

I hope you were able to get out for a ride today, and that you had a 
wonderful time.

I posted in response to another posters suggestion to search for berto 
tire pressure.

Doing so should turn up: 
http://www.bccclub.org/documents/Tireinflation.pdf. That article, or an 
earlier version of it which was published in Bicycling, seems to be the 
primary source for most, if not all, of the graphs, spreadsheets and apps 
dealing with tire pressure as a function of load and tire width that are 
all over over the internet and comprise a lot of what a google search for 
berto tire pressure turns up.

In that article the author (Frank Berto) describes/defines tire drop, and 
asserts that ... the optimum inflation pressure for comfort and rolling 
resistance produces a Tire Drop of about 15% of W (the section width)  
The paper also presents graphs, derived from experiments with a variety of 
tires, that give tire pressure to produce 15% drop for various tire widths 
over a range of loads. It is those graphs that have been so widely embraced 
and repackaged.

The paper does not describe or cite any testing or test results that 
support the assertion that optimal tire pressure results in 15% tire drop 
(and by inference vice versa). However, I suspect that there is or was some 
experimental basis for that assertion.

The knowledge of the group being greater than mine, I think it is 
reasonable for me to inquire if anybody knows what Frank Berto's assertion 
about 15% tire drop being optimal is based on, and can point to some 
documentation of that basis. Also though I didn't state it well before, and 
probably still haven't, I think the question is perfectly logical.

thnks
Ted
p.s. Berto's paper also states that ... Jan Heine thinks that inflation 
pressure is of relatively little importance and that the author (Berto) 
disagrees. I am fairly certain Jan's work is not where the 15% drop is 
optimal thing comes from.

On Tay,  April 8, 2014 3:02:5 3 AM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 Och, Ted! Your Google skills no doubt are fine. But why seek evidence of 
 something that is logically incomplete? The optimum temperature is a 15% 
 drop. Spread that around at all the rides you do and see if people start 
 to believe you, to the point that in winter they ride in a tank top to 
 compensate for temperatures that are 15% too warm for them to ride 
 optimally. Sardonic grin.

 Logical inference: someone read an article (possibly Jan's) on the testing 
 of tire pressure and rolling resistance, and due to poor grasp of logic and 
 reason remembered that concept in relation only to the pressures they ride, 
 which then came out via inept communication skills as a truncated 15% drop 
 is optimum, and spread that around club rides until it was heard round the 
 world. We see that kind of ineptitude all the time in science. Pick any 
 press article about any experiment and you will see it. Sardonic grin.

 People aren't taught to be mindful, use logic and reason, and unless 
 individuals seek it out or learn it on their own, they unwittingly fall for 
 all sorts of fallacies of logic and pass them on as intelligent thought. We 
 have our education system to thank for that.

 Clearly, I need a ride. I'm off to make sure my tires are 15% less 
 inflated. Grin.

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 On Monday, April 7, 2014 8:25:55 PM UTC-6, ted wrote:

 I believe I have done that before, and I did just now. I may be 
 incompetent but I didn't find test results documenting 15% tire drop as an 
 optimum.



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[RBW] Re: Rambouillet conundrum

2014-04-09 Thread Joe Bernard
What you're remembering as sport-touring were pretty spindly race-type 
bikes in comparison to the stouter Rom/Ram/AHH all day bicycles that 
Rivendell focuses on. And they had the consequent skinny tires which Riv 
eschews, too. Those 80's/90's bikes have their place and can be great fun 
to ride, but - in my opinion - your Rambouillet was not designed to mimic 
them. 

On Tuesday, April 8, 2014 12:07:09 PM UTC-7, Jeff Ong wrote:

 For what it's worth, I (the original poster) am around 6' tall, 230 lbs., 
 pretty beefy and broad (big shoulders, etc.). I would characterize myself 
 as a masher, I guess, since I cut my teeth on mountain biking and never 
 really developed a glassy-smooth pedal stroke. 

 I guess I was just really surprised by some of the ride characteristics of 
 the bike... I was expecting something like the sport-tourers of the 80's 
 and early 90's, not so much the handling of a loaded touring bike or early 
 80's klunker. I do suspect there are some real fit issues with this 
 frameset for me -- most of my bikes are kind of on the small side, some 
 almost comically so.

 I appreciate how open minded all you Riv devotees have been through this 
 discussion, though -- no one telling me my perceptions are just wrong, etc. 


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Re: [RBW] Re: Contemplating 1 x 9 drivetrain

2014-04-09 Thread Deacon Patrick
Another great point to consider, as I'm currently using an 8 speed 
cassette. How much drop off in shifting ease have you experienced with your 
9x2 in the rear vs. an 8, David?

With abandon,
Patrick

On Tuesday, April 8, 2014 9:03:38 PM UTC-6, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

 Larry, eight speed is nice as well, as they still use a regular chain.

 Cheers,
 David

 it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal





 On Tue, Apr 8, 2014 at 8:02 PM, LF fie...@gmail.com javascript: wrote:

 Patrick my friend,
 Not exactly to the point, but I think 7-speed rear clusters are at the 
 pinacle of bike gear technology. They are more forgiving when shifting, 
 last longer, have wider chains. Simple and practical! A nice wide range 2X7 
  Roll on!
 Best,
 Larry

 On Tuesday, April 8, 2014 9:45:03 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 I am contemplating whether to go 1 x 9 or 2 x 9 with my drive train. 
 here is the gear ration range comparison:

 In gain ratios:

 Current range (excluding my big ring, which I rarely use and will be 
 dropping):
 1.5 - 6

 1 x 9 (28 x 12-36)
 1.6 - 4.7

 2 x 9 (24/36 x 12-36)
 1.3 - 6

 I don’t really need lower than 1.5, and I am unsure how the drop to 4.7 
 from 6 translates to speed loss. On flat or gradual descents, I suspect I 
 would miss those upper gears. Can anyone provide their wisdom here?

 I am asking the question because I want to go as simple as is practical. 
 I’d love to go with the 36t on a 1x set up, but it would add significantly 
 to the number of hills i’m walking, especially when bikepacking. Perhaps 
 going with a 30 or 32t 1x set up is the way to go? I will no doubt get 
 stronger and the loss may not be a big deal with that. But then it’s better 
 to lose gears on the upper range and coast more, and enjoy the ride on the 
 climbs without killing myself.

 All wisdom deeply appreciated.
  
 With abandon,
 Patrick

 *www.MindYourHeadCoop.org http://www.MindYourHeadCoop.org*
 *www.OurHolyConception.org http://www.OurHolyConception.org*
  
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Re: [RBW] Does anyone use fenders off road?

2014-04-09 Thread Deacon Patrick
Interesting, David. Why wasn't it enjoyable? I've had fenders off road all 
last year, but then clay mud is not a factor where I ride.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Tuesday, April 8, 2014 8:55:42 PM UTC-6, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

 I'd take them off. I've used metal and plastic in the dirt on occasion, 
 but it's not very enjoyable.

 Cheers,
 David

 it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal





 On Tue, Apr 8, 2014 at 6:16 PM, Eric Platt eperic...@gmail.comjavascript:
  wrote:

 Have always used non-metal fenders on bikes that go on non-paved 
 ramblings. Had a fender fold-up in the back a couple times.  Luckily 
 nothing except the fender was damaged.  

 That's me.  Others use metal fenders with no problem at all off-road. 
  Have noticed that leather washers at the mounting points do make a 
 difference.  My LHT has metal fenders and works fine.  Although rarely take 
 that on anything worse than a gravel road.\
  
 Eric Platt
 St. Paul, MN


 On Mon, Apr 7, 2014 at 1:08 PM, Nanga Parbat nanga...@gmail.comjavascript:
  wrote:

 Hello RBW OB,
 I'm using a late 80's / early 90's Specialized mountain bike with Velo 
 Orange steel fenders, that were on the bike. Even with the leather washers 
 the fenders still rattle on trails. Is anyone using fenders for moderate 
 off roading? Should I try the SKS fenders?
 Cheers,
 Scott

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Re: [RBW] Re: Sam Hillborne Frame Fitment Update

2014-04-09 Thread Deacon Patrick
Thanks for the clarification, Ted. I'm following along better now. My 
apologies for being grouchy.

I did have a fantastic run and ride yesterday. good and sloppy, slushy, 
muddy.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Wednesday, April 9, 2014 12:55:01 AM UTC-6, ted wrote:

 Patrick,

 I hope you were able to get out for a ride today, and that you had a 
 wonderful time.

 I posted in response to another posters suggestion to search for berto 
 tire pressure.

 Doing so should turn up: 
 http://www.bccclub.org/documents/Tireinflation.pdf. That article, or an 
 earlier version of it which was published in Bicycling, seems to be the 
 primary source for most, if not all, of the graphs, spreadsheets and apps 
 dealing with tire pressure as a function of load and tire width that are 
 all over over the internet and comprise a lot of what a google search for 
 berto tire pressure turns up.

 In that article the author (Frank Berto) describes/defines tire drop, and 
 asserts that ... the optimum inflation pressure for comfort and rolling 
 resistance produces a Tire Drop of about 15% of W (the section width)  
 The paper also presents graphs, derived from experiments with a variety of 
 tires, that give tire pressure to produce 15% drop for various tire widths 
 over a range of loads. It is those graphs that have been so widely embraced 
 and repackaged.

 The paper does not describe or cite any testing or test results that 
 support the assertion that optimal tire pressure results in 15% tire drop 
 (and by inference vice versa). However, I suspect that there is or was some 
 experimental basis for that assertion.

 The knowledge of the group being greater than mine, I think it is 
 reasonable for me to inquire if anybody knows what Frank Berto's assertion 
 about 15% tire drop being optimal is based on, and can point to some 
 documentation of that basis. Also though I didn't state it well before, and 
 probably still haven't, I think the question is perfectly logical.

 thnks
 Ted
 p.s. Berto's paper also states that ... Jan Heine thinks that inflation 
 pressure is of relatively little importance and that the author (Berto) 
 disagrees. I am fairly certain Jan's work is not where the 15% drop is 
 optimal thing comes from.

 On Tay,  April 8, 2014 3:02:5 3 AM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 Och, Ted! Your Google skills no doubt are fine. But why seek evidence of 
 something that is logically incomplete? The optimum temperature is a 15% 
 drop. Spread that around at all the rides you do and see if people start 
 to believe you, to the point that in winter they ride in a tank top to 
 compensate for temperatures that are 15% too warm for them to ride 
 optimally. Sardonic grin.

 Logical inference: someone read an article (possibly Jan's) on the 
 testing of tire pressure and rolling resistance, and due to poor grasp of 
 logic and reason remembered that concept in relation only to the pressures 
 they ride, which then came out via inept communication skills as a 
 truncated 15% drop is optimum, and spread that around club rides until it 
 was heard round the world. We see that kind of ineptitude all the time in 
 science. Pick any press article about any experiment and you will see it. 
 Sardonic grin.

 People aren't taught to be mindful, use logic and reason, and unless 
 individuals seek it out or learn it on their own, they unwittingly fall for 
 all sorts of fallacies of logic and pass them on as intelligent thought. We 
 have our education system to thank for that.

 Clearly, I need a ride. I'm off to make sure my tires are 15% less 
 inflated. Grin.

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 On Monday, April 7, 2014 8:25:55 PM UTC-6, ted wrote:

 I believe I have done that before, and I did just now. I may be 
 incompetent but I didn't find test results documenting 15% tire drop as an 
 optimum.



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[RBW] 29er x 2.5 Fender Recommendations?

2014-04-09 Thread Deacon Patrick
I know of Planet Bike's Cascadia and am leaning towards Woodys flat fenders 
because the Plant Bikes are on my lassies' bikes and they seem to rattle a 
lot/seem cheep. Any other suggestions for 29er fenders that fit happily over 
2.25 tires?

With abandon,
Patrick

www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
www.OurHolyConception.org

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[RBW] Using my Sam as a commuter

2014-04-09 Thread blakcloud
This weeks experiment, well maybe the next two weeks, will be using my Sam 
Hillborne as a commuter. I built the bike up as a leisurely Sunday bike to 
ride with my wife though I started thinking the bike could do more. 

I was inspired by a thread last year Could you own one bike? The answer 
for me was no, but I could trim down the number of bikes I own. I want to 
minimize and plus I don't have room as I live in a condo and bike parking 
has become an issue.

There hasn't been a lot of talk about using Riv's as commuters on this 
board and even Rivendell doesn't seem to push the commuting aspect for 
their bikes. The Sam to me, might make a good commuter. My commutes are 60 
minutes each way, so nothing drastic. It is set up with Albatross's and a 
Brooks B67, plus the required basket and Mark's rack. The bike currently 
has Hetre's but I think I will use a pair of Marathons that I also own. I 
will pick up SKS Longboards today and if the experiment works, a new dynamo 
front wheel will be built. Ninety five percent of my cycling is commuting 
so I really need to like the bike I ride. I am hoping the Sam will fit that 
bill. 



 


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Re: [RBW] Re: Contemplating 1 x 9 drivetrain

2014-04-09 Thread justinaugust
I ride a 1x9 setup for a long while and I found that it was a bit too much 
compromise. I have a Sugino crank waiting to be double+guarded so I can have a 
38/24 setup up front. Since you seem to do predominantly mountain/trail stuff 
I'd hold onto that front lowest gear. Worse comes to worse take off the front 
derailleur and shift by hand.

-J

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Re: [RBW] Using my Sam as a commuter

2014-04-09 Thread Patrick Moore
Until I quit working in an office, I commuted 30 miles rt on a custom. Even
now, that custom is my go to bike for errands, though I also have a Ram set
up as a beater errand bike. (It's a nice beater.)

More seriously, the Ram is the mult-gear option when I am feeling lazy, but
the custom still remains my good bike.

Since so much of my riding is utility riding, it seems reasonable to do
it on the best bike. For me, even utility riding is done for fun; if it's
not fun, why bother? I can save the world in other ways.


On Wed, Apr 9, 2014 at 4:28 AM, blakcloud blakclou...@gmail.com wrote:

 This weeks experiment, well maybe the next two weeks, will be using my Sam
 Hillborne as a commuter. I built the bike up as a leisurely Sunday bike to
 ride with my wife though I started thinking the bike could do more.

 I was inspired by a thread last year Could you own one bike? The answer
 for me was no, but I could trim down the number of bikes I own. I want to
 minimize and plus I don't have room as I live in a condo and bike parking
 has become an issue.

 There hasn't been a lot of talk about using Riv's as commuters on this
 board and even Rivendell doesn't seem to push the commuting aspect for
 their bikes. The Sam to me, might make a good commuter. My commutes are 60
 minutes each way, so nothing drastic. It is set up with Albatross's and a
 Brooks B67, plus the required basket and Mark's rack. The bike currently
 has Hetre's but I think I will use a pair of Marathons that I also own. I
 will pick up SKS Longboards today and if the experiment works, a new dynamo
 front wheel will be built. Ninety five percent of my cycling is commuting
 so I really need to like the bike I ride. I am hoping the Sam will fit that
 bill.






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Re: [RBW] Contemplating 1 x 9 drivetrain

2014-04-09 Thread Patrick Moore
Why not a 1X9 with granny? I use the middle and inner rings on the XD2,
with bashguard on the outside. I hardly ever use the 24, but I see no good
reason to remove it.




On Tue, Apr 8, 2014 at 7:45 PM, Deacon Patrick lamontg...@mac.com wrote:

 I am contemplating whether to go 1 x 9 or 2 x 9 with my drive train. here
 is the gear ration range comparison:

 In gain ratios:

 Current range (excluding my big ring, which I rarely use and will be
 dropping):
 1.5 - 6

 1 x 9 (28 x 12-36)
 1.6 - 4.7

 2 x 9 (24/36 x 12-36)
 1.3 - 6

 I don’t really need lower than 1.5, and I am unsure how the drop to 4.7
 from 6 translates to speed loss. On flat or gradual descents, I suspect I
 would miss those upper gears. Can anyone provide their wisdom here?

 I am asking the question because I want to go as simple as is practical.
 I’d love to go with the 36t on a 1x set up, but it would add significantly
 to the number of hills i’m walking, especially when bikepacking. Perhaps
 going with a 30 or 32t 1x set up is the way to go? I will no doubt get
 stronger and the loss may not be a big deal with that. But then it’s better
 to lose gears on the upper range and coast more, and enjoy the ride on the
 climbs without killing myself.

 All wisdom deeply appreciated.

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 *www.MindYourHeadCoop.org http://www.MindYourHeadCoop.org*
 *www.OurHolyConception.org http://www.OurHolyConception.org*

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Re: [RBW] Contemplating 1 x 9 drivetrain

2014-04-09 Thread Patrick Moore
Forgot this:

  28.5  38.0 24.0  13.0 83.3  14.0 77.4  15.0 72.2  16.0 67.7  17.0 63.7
18.0 60.2 38.0  20.0 54.2 34.2  23.0 47.1 29.7  27.0 40.1 25.3
I don't find that shifting the 9 speed is any harder than the previous 7;
both home made cassettes and Silver shifters.


On Wed, Apr 9, 2014 at 4:39 AM, Patrick Moore bertin...@gmail.com wrote:

 Why not a 1X9 with granny? I use the middle and inner rings on the XD2,
 with bashguard on the outside. I hardly ever use the 24, but I see no good
 reason to remove it.




 On Tue, Apr 8, 2014 at 7:45 PM, Deacon Patrick lamontg...@mac.com wrote:

 I am contemplating whether to go 1 x 9 or 2 x 9 with my drive train. here
 is the gear ration range comparison:

 In gain ratios:

 Current range (excluding my big ring, which I rarely use and will be
 dropping):
 1.5 - 6

 1 x 9 (28 x 12-36)
 1.6 - 4.7

 2 x 9 (24/36 x 12-36)
 1.3 - 6

 I don’t really need lower than 1.5, and I am unsure how the drop to 4.7
 from 6 translates to speed loss. On flat or gradual descents, I suspect I
 would miss those upper gears. Can anyone provide their wisdom here?

 I am asking the question because I want to go as simple as is practical.
 I’d love to go with the 36t on a 1x set up, but it would add significantly
 to the number of hills i’m walking, especially when bikepacking. Perhaps
 going with a 30 or 32t 1x set up is the way to go? I will no doubt get
 stronger and the loss may not be a big deal with that. But then it’s better
 to lose gears on the upper range and coast more, and enjoy the ride on the
 climbs without killing myself.

 All wisdom deeply appreciated.

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 *www.MindYourHeadCoop.org http://www.MindYourHeadCoop.org*
 *www.OurHolyConception.org http://www.OurHolyConception.org*

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Re: [RBW] Does anyone use fenders off road?

2014-04-09 Thread Patrick Moore
I used both SKS and Planet Bike Cascadias, both 60 mm, off road, and
neither set ratted except perhaps a very little bit on washboard.

IME, the source of rattling is fender contact under the crown or, for the
rear, with the seat stays.

The front SKS and PB fenders were attached by brackets to crown bolts and
there was a gap between top of fender and bottom of crown -- no contact.

The rears: I truncated the rears so that they ended just aft of my
saddlebag and there was far less mass to wag the fender. (I did this for
reasons of convenience, not to stop rattling, but it accomplished that,
too.) With the SKS's the rear struts extended from the truncated rear end
almost vertically to the dropout; with the PBs, I forwent struts and simply
zip tied the fender to the rear rack.


On Mon, Apr 7, 2014 at 12:08 PM, Nanga Parbat nangapa...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hello RBW OB,
 I'm using a late 80's / early 90's Specialized mountain bike with Velo
 Orange steel fenders, that were on the bike. Even with the leather washers
 the fenders still rattle on trails. Is anyone using fenders for moderate
 off roading? Should I try the SKS fenders?
 Cheers,
 Scott

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Re: [RBW] Racks! (WTB?)

2014-04-09 Thread Patrick Moore
I commuted with Tubus Flys for years; they are rated for 18 or 20 kg and
I've certainly loaded mine to that limit. 11 oz and minimalist design.

If looks are a big issue, a slightly heavier and slightly weaker stainless
steel model is available.

Add Tubus front Tara or Duos and you'll not spend much more than $200
total. (Wayne at TheTouringStoredotcom ships at no additional charge.)


On Tue, Apr 8, 2014 at 2:50 PM, Mathew Greiner mathew.grei...@gmail.comwrote:

 Questions about racks. Answers and offers to sell used good ones are both
 useful responses.

 My friend's cheaper aluminum rack broke and he's looking to replace it
 with something better. He commutes most days with a pair of Arkel panniers
 and a suit in a suit bag (like a durable, zippered one that probably came
 with one of his suits). So far he's had the bags on his rear rack with the
 suit bag folded in half or thirds and draped over the top.

 The Nitto Big Rear Rack seems like a slam dunk, but I think he needs to
 know there isn't an equally good option for a little less. How are people's
 experiences with things like the Nitto R-15, The Nitto Campee*, Tubus
 Cargo/Logo/Vega, Surly Nice Racks, etc? If anyone knows much about the Velo
 Orange Rear Campeur, that's an option, too.

 I think a lighter rear rack just for the suit and front low riders for the
 panniers might be a nice option, but that's as expensive or more, and the
 tops of the panniers are no longer supporting the suit (they kind of extend
 the deck of the rack as he uses it now). The Nitto Big Front Rack might
 also be interesting, as his bike has a lower trail and reportedly rides
 well with weight in the front.

 What other options might you all experience with to accommodate a similar
 load?

 * Also please help me be less confused. There are Nitto MT Campees (for a
 26 wheel?), Nitto Campees (R20?) that go for about $150, and then Nitto
 Campees with low rider attachments for front or rear that go for $280. Will
 the regular ones ($150) accommodate panniers? Why must they all have the
 same name?

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Re: [RBW] Contemplating 1 x 9 drivetrain

2014-04-09 Thread Ron Mc
in range, gear inches - you want something under 30 inches and something 
over 80 inches.  Then make sure you don't have any steps over 8-10 inches.  

On Wednesday, April 9, 2014 5:42:09 AM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:

 Forgot this:

   28.5  38.0 24.0  13.0 83.3  14.0 77.4  15.0 72.2  16.0 67.7  17.0 63.7  
 18.0 60.2 38.0  20.0 54.2 34.2  23.0 47.1 29.7  27.0 40.1 25.3 
 I don't find that shifting the 9 speed is any harder than the previous 7; 
 both home made cassettes and Silver shifters.


 On Wed, Apr 9, 2014 at 4:39 AM, Patrick Moore bert...@gmail.comjavascript:
  wrote:

 Why not a 1X9 with granny? I use the middle and inner rings on the XD2, 
 with bashguard on the outside. I hardly ever use the 24, but I see no good 
 reason to remove it.


  

 On Tue, Apr 8, 2014 at 7:45 PM, Deacon Patrick lamon...@mac.comjavascript:
  wrote:

 I am contemplating whether to go 1 x 9 or 2 x 9 with my drive train. 
 here is the gear ration range comparison:

 In gain ratios:

 Current range (excluding my big ring, which I rarely use and will be 
 dropping):
 1.5 - 6

 1 x 9 (28 x 12-36)
 1.6 - 4.7

 2 x 9 (24/36 x 12-36)
 1.3 - 6

 I don’t really need lower than 1.5, and I am unsure how the drop to 4.7 
 from 6 translates to speed loss. On flat or gradual descents, I suspect I 
 would miss those upper gears. Can anyone provide their wisdom here?

 I am asking the question because I want to go as simple as is practical. 
 I’d love to go with the 36t on a 1x set up, but it would add significantly 
 to the number of hills i’m walking, especially when bikepacking. Perhaps 
 going with a 30 or 32t 1x set up is the way to go? I will no doubt get 
 stronger and the loss may not be a big deal with that. But then it’s better 
 to lose gears on the upper range and coast more, and enjoy the ride on the 
 climbs without killing myself.

 All wisdom deeply appreciated.
  
 With abandon,
 Patrick

 *www.MindYourHeadCoop.org http://www.MindYourHeadCoop.org*
 *www.OurHolyConception.org http://www.OurHolyConception.org*
  
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 Albuquerque, Nouvelle Mexique, Etats Unis

 

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Re: [RBW] Does anyone use fenders off road?

2014-04-09 Thread Ron Mc
I don't ride MTB terrain, but gravel (caliche) roads and some single-track 
(also caliche).  My Honjo fenders don't make a sound.  I added tire wipers 
and have them adjusted to just not touch the tires.  They keep everything 
out of the fenders - rocks, sticks, chert and mud.  The only sound I hear 
is pings on the tire wipers.  

On Wednesday, April 9, 2014 5:50:00 AM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:

 I used both SKS and Planet Bike Cascadias, both 60 mm, off road, and 
 neither set ratted except perhaps a very little bit on washboard.

 IME, the source of rattling is fender contact under the crown or, for the 
 rear, with the seat stays. 

 The front SKS and PB fenders were attached by brackets to crown bolts and 
 there was a gap between top of fender and bottom of crown -- no contact. 

 The rears: I truncated the rears so that they ended just aft of my 
 saddlebag and there was far less mass to wag the fender. (I did this for 
 reasons of convenience, not to stop rattling, but it accomplished that, 
 too.) With the SKS's the rear struts extended from the truncated rear end 
 almost vertically to the dropout; with the PBs, I forwent struts and simply 
 zip tied the fender to the rear rack.


 On Mon, Apr 7, 2014 at 12:08 PM, Nanga Parbat nanga...@gmail.comjavascript:
  wrote:

 Hello RBW OB,
 I'm using a late 80's / early 90's Specialized mountain bike with Velo 
 Orange steel fenders, that were on the bike. Even with the leather washers 
 the fenders still rattle on trails. Is anyone using fenders for moderate 
 off roading? Should I try the SKS fenders?
 Cheers,
 Scott

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 By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
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 http://www.resumespecialties.com/
 Patrick Moore
 Albuquerque, Nouvelle Mexique, Etats Unis

  

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Re: [RBW] Contemplating 1 x 9 drivetrain

2014-04-09 Thread Eric Platt
Have a 1x9 on my Sam Hillborne and it works fine.  But I don't do a lot of
off-road or really steep hill climbing so the 39 up front with an 11-36 in
back is sufficient.  If you went with a 32t up front and an 11-36 in the
back you'd probably be good to go.  Maybe a 30t up front if you want a
really low gear.

The best thing about a 1xanything is tire clearance with wide tires.
 Talking 2.7 inches and wider here.  On most bikes the inner chainring and
largest cogs can get too close to knobs and sidewalls.  One of the many
reasons that 1x10 is making such good headway.

Eric Platt
St. Paul, MN


On Wed, Apr 9, 2014 at 7:00 AM, Ron Mc bulldog...@gmail.com wrote:

 in range, gear inches - you want something under 30 inches and something
 over 80 inches.  Then make sure you don't have any steps over 8-10 inches.


 On Wednesday, April 9, 2014 5:42:09 AM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:

 Forgot this:

   28.5  38.0 24.0  13.0 83.3  14.0 77.4  15.0 72.2  16.0 67.7  17.0 63.7
 18.0 60.2 38.0  20.0 54.2 34.2  23.0 47.1 29.7  27.0 40.1 25.3
 I don't find that shifting the 9 speed is any harder than the previous 7;
 both home made cassettes and Silver shifters.


 On Wed, Apr 9, 2014 at 4:39 AM, Patrick Moore bert...@gmail.com wrote:

 Why not a 1X9 with granny? I use the middle and inner rings on the XD2,
 with bashguard on the outside. I hardly ever use the 24, but I see no good
 reason to remove it.




 On Tue, Apr 8, 2014 at 7:45 PM, Deacon Patrick lamon...@mac.com wrote:

 I am contemplating whether to go 1 x 9 or 2 x 9 with my drive train.
 here is the gear ration range comparison:

 In gain ratios:

 Current range (excluding my big ring, which I rarely use and will be
 dropping):
 1.5 - 6

 1 x 9 (28 x 12-36)
 1.6 - 4.7

 2 x 9 (24/36 x 12-36)
 1.3 - 6

 I don't really need lower than 1.5, and I am unsure how the drop to 4.7
 from 6 translates to speed loss. On flat or gradual descents, I suspect I
 would miss those upper gears. Can anyone provide their wisdom here?

 I am asking the question because I want to go as simple as is
 practical. I'd love to go with the 36t on a 1x set up, but it would add
 significantly to the number of hills i'm walking, especially when
 bikepacking. Perhaps going with a 30 or 32t 1x set up is the way to go? I
 will no doubt get stronger and the loss may not be a big deal with that.
 But then it's better to lose gears on the upper range and coast more, and
 enjoy the ride on the climbs without killing myself.

 All wisdom deeply appreciated.

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 *www.MindYourHeadCoop.org http://www.MindYourHeadCoop.org*
 *www.OurHolyConception.org http://www.OurHolyConception.org*

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Re: [RBW] Contemplating 1 x 9 drivetrain

2014-04-09 Thread Brian Campbell
As someone who has a 29'er MTB w/ a 1x9 drivetrain (32 front 11-34 rear), I 
say keep the inner ring. You don't have to shift if you don't want to but 
if you need it, you will have it. I am in southeastern PA, where the 
mountains pale in comparsison and on a couple of all day rides where I 
bonked, I wished I had something lower to spin while I was 
recovering. Cheap insurance in my mind.

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Re: [RBW] Does anyone use fenders off road?

2014-04-09 Thread cyclotourist
I didn't care for the rattling gravel noise. They weren't providing enough
utility to make that worth it for me.

Cheers,
David

it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal





On Wed, Apr 9, 2014 at 3:05 AM, Deacon Patrick lamontg...@mac.com wrote:

 Interesting, David. Why wasn't it enjoyable? I've had fenders off road all
 last year, but then clay mud is not a factor where I ride.

 With abandon,
 Patrick


 On Tuesday, April 8, 2014 8:55:42 PM UTC-6, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

 I'd take them off. I've used metal and plastic in the dirt on occasion,
 but it's not very enjoyable.

 Cheers,
 David

 it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal





 On Tue, Apr 8, 2014 at 6:16 PM, Eric Platt eperic...@gmail.com wrote:

 Have always used non-metal fenders on bikes that go on non-paved
 ramblings. Had a fender fold-up in the back a couple times.  Luckily
 nothing except the fender was damaged.

 That's me.  Others use metal fenders with no problem at all off-road.
  Have noticed that leather washers at the mounting points do make a
 difference.  My LHT has metal fenders and works fine.  Although rarely take
 that on anything worse than a gravel road.\

 Eric Platt
 St. Paul, MN


 On Mon, Apr 7, 2014 at 1:08 PM, Nanga Parbat nanga...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hello RBW OB,
 I'm using a late 80's / early 90's Specialized mountain bike with Velo
 Orange steel fenders, that were on the bike. Even with the leather washers
 the fenders still rattle on trails. Is anyone using fenders for moderate
 off roading? Should I try the SKS fenders?
 Cheers,
 Scott

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Re: [RBW] Re: Contemplating 1 x 9 drivetrain

2014-04-09 Thread cyclotourist
Define shifting ease? There's really no difference between 8 or 9 in amount
of effort to shift??? I really like 9 speed for the 36T cassette though.
Best bike component to come out in the last decade or so.

Cheers,
David

it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal





On Wed, Apr 9, 2014 at 3:02 AM, Deacon Patrick lamontg...@mac.com wrote:

 Another great point to consider, as I'm currently using an 8 speed
 cassette. How much drop off in shifting ease have you experienced with your
 9x2 in the rear vs. an 8, David?

 With abandon,
 Patrick


 On Tuesday, April 8, 2014 9:03:38 PM UTC-6, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

 Larry, eight speed is nice as well, as they still use a regular chain.

 Cheers,
 David

 it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal





 On Tue, Apr 8, 2014 at 8:02 PM, LF fie...@gmail.com wrote:

 Patrick my friend,
 Not exactly to the point, but I think 7-speed rear clusters are at the
 pinacle of bike gear technology. They are more forgiving when shifting,
 last longer, have wider chains. Simple and practical! A nice wide range 2X7
  Roll on!
 Best,
 Larry

 On Tuesday, April 8, 2014 9:45:03 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 I am contemplating whether to go 1 x 9 or 2 x 9 with my drive train.
 here is the gear ration range comparison:

 In gain ratios:

 Current range (excluding my big ring, which I rarely use and will be
 dropping):
 1.5 - 6

 1 x 9 (28 x 12-36)
 1.6 - 4.7

 2 x 9 (24/36 x 12-36)
 1.3 - 6

 I don't really need lower than 1.5, and I am unsure how the drop to 4.7
 from 6 translates to speed loss. On flat or gradual descents, I suspect I
 would miss those upper gears. Can anyone provide their wisdom here?

 I am asking the question because I want to go as simple as is
 practical. I'd love to go with the 36t on a 1x set up, but it would add
 significantly to the number of hills i'm walking, especially when
 bikepacking. Perhaps going with a 30 or 32t 1x set up is the way to go? I
 will no doubt get stronger and the loss may not be a big deal with that.
 But then it's better to lose gears on the upper range and coast more, and
 enjoy the ride on the climbs without killing myself.

 All wisdom deeply appreciated.

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 *www.MindYourHeadCoop.org http://www.MindYourHeadCoop.org*
 *www.OurHolyConception.org http://www.OurHolyConception.org*

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Re: [RBW] Racks! (WTB?)

2014-04-09 Thread Ron Mc
The Tubus Cosmo is really their rack compares to the Nitto 32/33R.  My 
buddy has the Tubus, and I have the Nitto - they're both very nice and top 
of the line for a reason.  The best thing about them is they keep the load 
well back from your feet and down a bit.  
My daughter has the Tubus Vega which is essentially the Fly but with double 
stays.  Very strong rack but the load is way up high.  
Hey - The Touring Store is having a spring sale that ends tomorrow... 
 http://www.thetouringstore.com/TUBUS/TUBUS%20HOME/TUBUS%20HOME%20PAGE.htm

On Wednesday, April 9, 2014 5:59:44 AM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:

 I commuted with Tubus Flys for years; they are rated for 18 or 20 kg and 
 I've certainly loaded mine to that limit. 11 oz and minimalist design.

 If looks are a big issue, a slightly heavier and slightly weaker stainless 
 steel model is available.

 Add Tubus front Tara or Duos and you'll not spend much more than $200 
 total. (Wayne at TheTouringStoredotcom ships at no additional charge.)


 On Tue, Apr 8, 2014 at 2:50 PM, Mathew Greiner 
 mathew@gmail.comjavascript:
  wrote:

 Questions about racks. Answers and offers to sell used good ones are both 
 useful responses.

 My friend's cheaper aluminum rack broke and he's looking to replace it 
 with something better. He commutes most days with a pair of Arkel panniers 
 and a suit in a suit bag (like a durable, zippered one that probably came 
 with one of his suits). So far he's had the bags on his rear rack with the 
 suit bag folded in half or thirds and draped over the top.

 The Nitto Big Rear Rack seems like a slam dunk, but I think he needs to 
 know there isn't an equally good option for a little less. How are people's 
 experiences with things like the Nitto R-15, The Nitto Campee*, Tubus 
 Cargo/Logo/Vega, Surly Nice Racks, etc? If anyone knows much about the Velo 
 Orange Rear Campeur, that's an option, too.

 I think a lighter rear rack just for the suit and front low riders for 
 the panniers might be a nice option, but that's as expensive or more, and 
 the tops of the panniers are no longer supporting the suit (they kind of 
 extend the deck of the rack as he uses it now). The Nitto Big Front Rack 
 might also be interesting, as his bike has a lower trail and reportedly 
 rides well with weight in the front.

 What other options might you all experience with to accommodate a similar 
 load?

 * Also please help me be less confused. There are Nitto MT Campees (for a 
 26 wheel?), Nitto Campees (R20?) that go for about $150, and then Nitto 
 Campees with low rider attachments for front or rear that go for $280. Will 
 the regular ones ($150) accommodate panniers? Why must they all have the 
 same name?
  
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 Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, and letters that get interviews.
 By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
 Other professional writing services.
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Re: [RBW] Re: Contemplating 1 x 9 drivetrain

2014-04-09 Thread Deacon Patrick
Define shifting ease: Larry had said 7 speeds are more forgiving. So I 
wasn't sure what that meant. Sounds like the 9 is no big deal and has a lot 
of benefit, which is what I'm counting on. Grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Wednesday, April 9, 2014 7:26:55 AM UTC-6, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

 Define shifting ease? There's really no difference between 8 or 9 in 
 amount of effort to shift??? I really like 9 speed for the 36T cassette 
 though. Best bike component to come out in the last decade or so.

 Cheers,
 David

 it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal





 On Wed, Apr 9, 2014 at 3:02 AM, Deacon Patrick lamon...@mac.comjavascript:
  wrote:

 Another great point to consider, as I'm currently using an 8 speed 
 cassette. How much drop off in shifting ease have you experienced with your 
 9x2 in the rear vs. an 8, David?

 With abandon,
 Patrick


 On Tuesday, April 8, 2014 9:03:38 PM UTC-6, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

 Larry, eight speed is nice as well, as they still use a regular chain.

 Cheers,
 David

 it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal





 On Tue, Apr 8, 2014 at 8:02 PM, LF fie...@gmail.com wrote:

  Patrick my friend,
 Not exactly to the point, but I think 7-speed rear clusters are at the 
 pinacle of bike gear technology. They are more forgiving when shifting, 
 last longer, have wider chains. Simple and practical! A nice wide range 
 2X7 
  Roll on!
 Best,
 Larry

 On Tuesday, April 8, 2014 9:45:03 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 I am contemplating whether to go 1 x 9 or 2 x 9 with my drive train. 
 here is the gear ration range comparison:

 In gain ratios:

 Current range (excluding my big ring, which I rarely use and will be 
 dropping):
 1.5 - 6

 1 x 9 (28 x 12-36)
 1.6 - 4.7

 2 x 9 (24/36 x 12-36)
 1.3 - 6

 I don’t really need lower than 1.5, and I am unsure how the drop to 
 4.7 from 6 translates to speed loss. On flat or gradual descents, I 
 suspect 
 I would miss those upper gears. Can anyone provide their wisdom here?

 I am asking the question because I want to go as simple as is 
 practical. I’d love to go with the 36t on a 1x set up, but it would add 
 significantly to the number of hills i’m walking, especially when 
 bikepacking. Perhaps going with a 30 or 32t 1x set up is the way to go? I 
 will no doubt get stronger and the loss may not be a big deal with that. 
 But then it’s better to lose gears on the upper range and coast more, and 
 enjoy the ride on the climbs without killing myself.

 All wisdom deeply appreciated.
  
 With abandon,
 Patrick

 *www.MindYourHeadCoop.org http://www.MindYourHeadCoop.org*
 *www.OurHolyConception.org http://www.OurHolyConception.org*
  
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Re: [RBW] Re: Contemplating 1 x 9 drivetrain

2014-04-09 Thread Ron Mc
7-speed is all about chain line.  9-speed is step down in chain line.  

On Wednesday, April 9, 2014 8:43:40 AM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 Define shifting ease: Larry had said 7 speeds are more forgiving. So I 
 wasn't sure what that meant. Sounds like the 9 is no big deal and has a lot 
 of benefit, which is what I'm counting on. Grin.

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 On Wednesday, April 9, 2014 7:26:55 AM UTC-6, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

 Define shifting ease? There's really no difference between 8 or 9 in 
 amount of effort to shift??? I really like 9 speed for the 36T cassette 
 though. Best bike component to come out in the last decade or so.

 Cheers,
 David

 it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal





 On Wed, Apr 9, 2014 at 3:02 AM, Deacon Patrick lamon...@mac.com wrote:

 Another great point to consider, as I'm currently using an 8 speed 
 cassette. How much drop off in shifting ease have you experienced with your 
 9x2 in the rear vs. an 8, David?

 With abandon,
 Patrick


 On Tuesday, April 8, 2014 9:03:38 PM UTC-6, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

 Larry, eight speed is nice as well, as they still use a regular chain.

 Cheers,
 David

 it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal





 On Tue, Apr 8, 2014 at 8:02 PM, LF fie...@gmail.com wrote:

  Patrick my friend,
 Not exactly to the point, but I think 7-speed rear clusters are at the 
 pinacle of bike gear technology. They are more forgiving when shifting, 
 last longer, have wider chains. Simple and practical! A nice wide range 
 2X7 
  Roll on!
 Best,
 Larry

 On Tuesday, April 8, 2014 9:45:03 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 I am contemplating whether to go 1 x 9 or 2 x 9 with my drive train. 
 here is the gear ration range comparison:

 In gain ratios:

 Current range (excluding my big ring, which I rarely use and will be 
 dropping):
 1.5 - 6

 1 x 9 (28 x 12-36)
 1.6 - 4.7

 2 x 9 (24/36 x 12-36)
 1.3 - 6

 I don’t really need lower than 1.5, and I am unsure how the drop to 
 4.7 from 6 translates to speed loss. On flat or gradual descents, I 
 suspect 
 I would miss those upper gears. Can anyone provide their wisdom here?

 I am asking the question because I want to go as simple as is 
 practical. I’d love to go with the 36t on a 1x set up, but it would add 
 significantly to the number of hills i’m walking, especially when 
 bikepacking. Perhaps going with a 30 or 32t 1x set up is the way to go? 
 I 
 will no doubt get stronger and the loss may not be a big deal with that. 
 But then it’s better to lose gears on the upper range and coast more, 
 and 
 enjoy the ride on the climbs without killing myself.

 All wisdom deeply appreciated.
  
 With abandon,
 Patrick

 *www.MindYourHeadCoop.org http://www.MindYourHeadCoop.org*
 *www.OurHolyConception.org http://www.OurHolyConception.org*
  
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Re: [RBW] Re: Contemplating 1 x 9 drivetrain

2014-04-09 Thread Patrick Moore
You probably remember that the practical limit of friction shifting was
debated at great length not too long ago and many considered 8 speeds to be
the most they could friction shift easily. That group does not include me,
but be aware that some do find 9 harder than fewer cogs.

Patrick 10's no problem either, at least with Retrofrictions Moore


On Wed, Apr 9, 2014 at 7:43 AM, Deacon Patrick lamontg...@mac.com wrote:
[...]. Sounds like the 9 is no big deal and has a lot of benefit, which is
what I'm counting on. Grin.


 With abandon,
 Patrick



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[RBW] Re: Using my Sam as a commuter

2014-04-09 Thread Shoji Takahashi
I'm a bike commuter, ~6 miles one-way into Cambridge MA, ~40-min 
door-to-door. I'm fortunate to have secure bike parking and a shower at 
work.

My Hunqapillar is setup with Big Bens (559BSD; ~52mm wide), which are 
terrific over the potholes and debris. I try to take hard-packed dirt 
trails, and they transition from road-to-trail and back quite well. I have 
VO ATB fenders to keep me dry.

I've used Noodles and bullmoose (non-Bosco), which are setup with cable 
splitters for easy swaps (takes 10 min). Either are fine, and variety is 
good... but I think I prefer the Noodles for commuting. There are some 
stretches where the headwinds can be terrible, and the drop position makes 
it less unbearable.

For luggage, I've moved around from front basket+shop sack to medium 
saddlesack to small saddlesack and back. I like 'em all!

There's no one way for me. I think I could go to one bike, if I was 
willing to use the Hunqapillar through the slush/salt winter roads. (That 
stuff's brutal on the mechanicals!) 

All I know is that I love my commute. 

Happy riding, Shoji


On Wednesday, April 9, 2014 6:28:08 AM UTC-4, blakcloud wrote:

 This weeks experiment, well maybe the next two weeks, will be using my Sam 
 Hillborne as a commuter. I built the bike up as a leisurely Sunday bike to 
 ride with my wife though I started thinking the bike could do more. 

 I was inspired by a thread last year Could you own one bike? The answer 
 for me was no, but I could trim down the number of bikes I own. I want to 
 minimize and plus I don't have room as I live in a condo and bike parking 
 has become an issue.

 There hasn't been a lot of talk about using Riv's as commuters on this 
 board and even Rivendell doesn't seem to push the commuting aspect for 
 their bikes. The Sam to me, might make a good commuter. My commutes are 60 
 minutes each way, so nothing drastic. It is set up with Albatross's and a 
 Brooks B67, plus the required basket and Mark's rack. The bike currently 
 has Hetre's but I think I will use a pair of Marathons that I also own. I 
 will pick up SKS Longboards today and if the experiment works, a new dynamo 
 front wheel will be built. Ninety five percent of my cycling is commuting 
 so I really need to like the bike I ride. I am hoping the Sam will fit that 
 bill. 



  




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Re: [RBW] Re: Sam Hillborne Frame Fitment Update

2014-04-09 Thread ted
Glad you had a great time outside yesterday. May you have another today. 
No worries on being grouchy, and no apologies needed. Frankly I didn't 
detect much grouch in your post. Way in bounds of the norm around here.

regards
Ted

On Wednesday, April 9, 2014 3:07:56 AM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 Thanks for the clarification, Ted. I'm following along better now. My 
 apologies for being grouchy.

 I did have a fantastic run and ride yesterday. good and sloppy, slushy, 
 muddy.

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 On Wednesday, April 9, 2014 12:55:01 AM UTC-6, ted wrote:

 Patrick,

 I hope you were able to get out for a ride today, and that you had a 
 wonderful time.

 I posted in response to another posters suggestion to search for berto 
 tire pressure.

 Doing so should turn up: 
 http://www.bccclub.org/documents/Tireinflation.pdf. That article, or an 
 earlier version of it which was published in Bicycling, seems to be the 
 primary source for most, if not all, of the graphs, spreadsheets and apps 
 dealing with tire pressure as a function of load and tire width that are 
 all over over the internet and comprise a lot of what a google search for 
 berto tire pressure turns up.

 In that article the author (Frank Berto) describes/defines tire drop, and 
 asserts that ... the optimum inflation pressure for comfort and rolling 
 resistance produces a Tire Drop of about 15% of W (the section width)  
 The paper also presents graphs, derived from experiments with a variety of 
 tires, that give tire pressure to produce 15% drop for various tire widths 
 over a range of loads. It is those graphs that have been so widely embraced 
 and repackaged.

 The paper does not describe or cite any testing or test results that 
 support the assertion that optimal tire pressure results in 15% tire drop 
 (and by inference vice versa). However, I suspect that there is or was some 
 experimental basis for that assertion.

 The knowledge of the group being greater than mine, I think it is 
 reasonable for me to inquire if anybody knows what Frank Berto's assertion 
 about 15% tire drop being optimal is based on, and can point to some 
 documentation of that basis. Also though I didn't state it well before, and 
 probably still haven't, I think the question is perfectly logical.

 thnks
 Ted
 p.s. Berto's paper also states that ... Jan Heine thinks that inflation 
 pressure is of relatively little importance and that the author (Berto) 
 disagrees. I am fairly certain Jan's work is not where the 15% drop is 
 optimal thing comes from.

 On Tay,  April 8, 2014 3:02:5 3 AM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 Och, Ted! Your Google skills no doubt are fine. But why seek evidence of 
 something that is logically incomplete? The optimum temperature is a 15% 
 drop. Spread that around at all the rides you do and see if people start 
 to believe you, to the point that in winter they ride in a tank top to 
 compensate for temperatures that are 15% too warm for them to ride 
 optimally. Sardonic grin.

 Logical inference: someone read an article (possibly Jan's) on the 
 testing of tire pressure and rolling resistance, and due to poor grasp of 
 logic and reason remembered that concept in relation only to the pressures 
 they ride, which then came out via inept communication skills as a 
 truncated 15% drop is optimum, and spread that around club rides until it 
 was heard round the world. We see that kind of ineptitude all the time in 
 science. Pick any press article about any experiment and you will see it. 
 Sardonic grin.

 People aren't taught to be mindful, use logic and reason, and unless 
 individuals seek it out or learn it on their own, they unwittingly fall for 
 all sorts of fallacies of logic and pass them on as intelligent thought. We 
 have our education system to thank for that.

 Clearly, I need a ride. I'm off to make sure my tires are 15% less 
 inflated. Grin.

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 On Monday, April 7, 2014 8:25:55 PM UTC-6, ted wrote:

 I believe I have done that before, and I did just now. I may be 
 incompetent but I didn't find test results documenting 15% tire drop as an 
 optimum.



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Re: [RBW] Re: Sam Hillborne Frame Fitment Update

2014-04-09 Thread Deacon Patrick
In bound? IN BOUNDS? Now THAT hurts! Grin. Kidding aside, you're far too 
kind, Ted. No ride today as it's a brain rest day.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Wednesday, April 9, 2014 9:19:49 AM UTC-6, ted wrote:

 Glad you had a great time outside yesterday. May you have another today. 
 No worries on being grouchy, and no apologies needed. Frankly I didn't 
 detect much grouch in your post. Way in bounds of the norm around here.

 regards
 Ted

 On Wednesday, April 9, 2014 3:07:56 AM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 Thanks for the clarification, Ted. I'm following along better now. My 
 apologies for being grouchy.

 I did have a fantastic run and ride yesterday. good and sloppy, slushy, 
 muddy.

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 On Wednesday, April 9, 2014 12:55:01 AM UTC-6, ted wrote:

 Patrick,

 I hope you were able to get out for a ride today, and that you had a 
 wonderful time.

 I posted in response to another posters suggestion to search for berto 
 tire pressure.

 Doing so should turn up: 
 http://www.bccclub.org/documents/Tireinflation.pdf. That article, or an 
 earlier version of it which was published in Bicycling, seems to be the 
 primary source for most, if not all, of the graphs, spreadsheets and apps 
 dealing with tire pressure as a function of load and tire width that are 
 all over over the internet and comprise a lot of what a google search for 
 berto tire pressure turns up.

 In that article the author (Frank Berto) describes/defines tire drop, 
 and asserts that ... the optimum inflation pressure for comfort and 
 rolling resistance produces a Tire Drop of about 15% of W (the section 
 width)  The paper also presents graphs, derived from experiments with 
 a variety of tires, that give tire pressure to produce 15% drop for various 
 tire widths over a range of loads. It is those graphs that have been so 
 widely embraced and repackaged.

 The paper does not describe or cite any testing or test results that 
 support the assertion that optimal tire pressure results in 15% tire drop 
 (and by inference vice versa). However, I suspect that there is or was some 
 experimental basis for that assertion.

 The knowledge of the group being greater than mine, I think it is 
 reasonable for me to inquire if anybody knows what Frank Berto's assertion 
 about 15% tire drop being optimal is based on, and can point to some 
 documentation of that basis. Also though I didn't state it well before, and 
 probably still haven't, I think the question is perfectly logical.

 thnks
 Ted
 p.s. Berto's paper also states that ... Jan Heine thinks that inflation 
 pressure is of relatively little importance and that the author (Berto) 
 disagrees. I am fairly certain Jan's work is not where the 15% drop is 
 optimal thing comes from.

 On Tay,  April 8, 2014 3:02:5 3 AM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 Och, Ted! Your Google skills no doubt are fine. But why seek evidence 
 of something that is logically incomplete? The optimum temperature is a 
 15% drop. Spread that around at all the rides you do and see if people 
 start to believe you, to the point that in winter they ride in a tank top 
 to compensate for temperatures that are 15% too warm for them to ride 
 optimally. Sardonic grin.

 Logical inference: someone read an article (possibly Jan's) on the 
 testing of tire pressure and rolling resistance, and due to poor grasp of 
 logic and reason remembered that concept in relation only to the pressures 
 they ride, which then came out via inept communication skills as a 
 truncated 15% drop is optimum, and spread that around club rides until 
 it 
 was heard round the world. We see that kind of ineptitude all the time in 
 science. Pick any press article about any experiment and you will see 
 it. 
 Sardonic grin.

 People aren't taught to be mindful, use logic and reason, and unless 
 individuals seek it out or learn it on their own, they unwittingly fall 
 for 
 all sorts of fallacies of logic and pass them on as intelligent thought. 
 We 
 have our education system to thank for that.

 Clearly, I need a ride. I'm off to make sure my tires are 15% less 
 inflated. Grin.

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 On Monday, April 7, 2014 8:25:55 PM UTC-6, ted wrote:

 I believe I have done that before, and I did just now. I may be 
 incompetent but I didn't find test results documenting 15% tire drop as 
 an 
 optimum.



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[RBW] Using my Sam as a commuter

2014-04-09 Thread Lynne Fitz
When I built up my Bleriot in 2007, as well as it being my rando bike, it was 
also to be my commute bike.  Friend: you are going to commute on a RIVENDELL?
Me: it is a bicycle.  Get over it.

Eventually I moved on to a custom rando bike, and Bleriot acquired a kickstand 
:-)  From the start, it had fenders and racks, and in Phase 2 (about 5000 miles 
along), generator lighting.  I no longer commute, but the Bleriot is my go-to 
bike.  I can ride it anywhere, haul stuff in the panniers (grocery run!), and 
it is my summer vacation bike.  Gets dumped on the beach, and might even ride a 
200k permanent.

In Jan 2013, I was commuting to work, and was struck by a car.  I walked away 
from it, but the Bleriot didn't.  Framebuilder friend of mine told me it WAS 
repairable, and after a conversation with Keven, off it went.  It now has a new 
(Saluki) fork, and is new tubing from the SS couplers forward.  And a spiffy 
new paint job - somewhere between Sam and Homer blue.

It has always attracted completely unsolicited that is a really nice/pretty 
bike! comments.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lynnefitz/sets/72157634204220895/

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Re: [RBW] Re: Contemplating 1 x 9 drivetrain

2014-04-09 Thread Steve Palincsar

On 04/09/2014 09:43 AM, Deacon Patrick wrote:
Define shifting ease: Larry had said 7 speeds are more forgiving. So 
I wasn't sure what that meant. Sounds like the 9 is no big deal and 
has a lot of benefit, which is what I'm counting on.


First, we must be talking about friction, not indexing, because with 
indexing all shifting is easy, no big deal.  With friction, it seems to 
vary: some have no trouble friction shifting 9 or even 10, while others 
(myself included) found too much ghost shifting with 8 and find 7 
significantly easier.


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[RBW] Re: Contemplating 1 x 9 drivetrain

2014-04-09 Thread Evan Baird
All I can say is I've saving my pennies for one of these.

https://s3-us-west-1.amazonaws.com/paulcompimg/products/chainkeeperclamp_6_zoom.jpg

http://www.paulcomp.com/chainkeepers.html

I've had my chain come off so many times in the last couple weeks and it's 
driving me bonkers.

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[RBW] Re: Riding Gravel Forum

2014-04-09 Thread Montclair BobbyB
[Opinion] Something about gravel and grinding makes me want to grind my 
teeth... There's probably nothing worse that riding on pure gravel (other 
than perhaps railroad ballast)... Why can't they better describe it for 
what it really is???... it's riding unpaved road... whether purely dirt, 
gravel with dirt, grass, or even ancient pavement... I'd say it's any road 
where cars may technically be allowed, yet you're likely to see few if any 
cars...  to me these are pure bliss, and something to be savored, NOT to 
grind through (unless you're racing, in which case that's like guzzling a 
great cup of coffee). 

Peace,
Bobby (sorry, I don't grind gravel) Birmingham

On Sunday, April 6, 2014 5:23:29 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 Here is a forum I just discovered for and about riding gravel (gravel 
 grinders), in case anyone else is interested. It's based out of Colorado 
 but open to everyone.
 http://ridinggravel.com

 With abandon,
 Patrick


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[RBW] Using my Sam as a commuter

2014-04-09 Thread Lynne Fitz
and, of course, we do all take PICTURES.
https://www.flickr.com/groups/rivendellcommuters/pool/with/2881385269/#photo_2881385269

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[RBW] Using my Sam as a commuter

2014-04-09 Thread Kellie Stapleton
Use my Sam for everything including 8-1/2 miles commuting.

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[RBW] Re: Does anyone use fenders off road?

2014-04-09 Thread Evan Baird
I have run both steel and plastic fenders offroad, and have yet to get into 
any serious trouble. You definitely need to be cognizant of how much 
clearance you have to avoid picking up debris. I probably wouldn't run 
knobbies with fenders. Too much danger of them pulling up a rock or 
something and getting lodged. Right now I'm using the Soma Rain Dogs, with 
the expectation that if somthing does get stuck they'll probably break 
apart rather than damage my frame/fork.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-doBiPrmtVso/U0V0Pzq973I/Sfc/1aweZ8P_yUs/s1600/13702255914_9394551407_z.jpg

https://flic.kr/p/mSPDiC

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Re: [RBW] Jamboree Ride Recon: 680 Trail

2014-04-09 Thread Dan McNamara
I am going to head out on that ride this weekend. Looks great. 

 On Apr 7, 2014, at 9:05 PM, Manuel Acosta manueljohnaco...@hotmail.com 
 wrote:
 
 Fun ride. 
 Eric, Evan, Jeremy and one of the five members of TheBoyzontheHoods Mr.Irving 
 himself. 
 Did a little recon on half the Jamboree route.
 Great mellow time, plenty of cheese stoppage and some really nice views. 
 Route looks good so far.
 
 Pictures proved that 680 doesn't mean the freeway.
 https://flic.kr/s/aHsjWvbpnZ
 
 -Manny Pretty sure this is the way Acosta
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[RBW] Re: Using my Sam as a commuter

2014-04-09 Thread hangtownmatt
I commute 30 miles round trip on my Sam Hillborne.

Matt

On Wednesday, April 9, 2014 3:28:08 AM UTC-7, blakcloud wrote:

 This weeks experiment, well maybe the next two weeks, will be using my Sam 
 Hillborne as a commuter. I built the bike up as a leisurely Sunday bike to 
 ride with my wife though I started thinking the bike could do more. 

 I was inspired by a thread last year Could you own one bike? The answer 
 for me was no, but I could trim down the number of bikes I own. I want to 
 minimize and plus I don't have room as I live in a condo and bike parking 
 has become an issue.

 There hasn't been a lot of talk about using Riv's as commuters on this 
 board and even Rivendell doesn't seem to push the commuting aspect for 
 their bikes. The Sam to me, might make a good commuter. My commutes are 60 
 minutes each way, so nothing drastic. It is set up with Albatross's and a 
 Brooks B67, plus the required basket and Mark's rack. The bike currently 
 has Hetre's but I think I will use a pair of Marathons that I also own. I 
 will pick up SKS Longboards today and if the experiment works, a new dynamo 
 front wheel will be built. Ninety five percent of my cycling is commuting 
 so I really need to like the bike I ride. I am hoping the Sam will fit that 
 bill. 



  




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[RBW] Re: Contemplating 1 x 9 drivetrain

2014-04-09 Thread Deacon Patrick
Thanks guys! I'm far more confident in my 2 x 9 choice, though I do love 
the attractiveness of a 1x. Looking back at all the backpacking (photos are 
the closest thing I have to experiential memory) I see the hills I climb 
with a load, and that makes it clear I need the 2 x 9. Thank you for 
playing with this with me!

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] Re: Riding Gravel Forum

2014-04-09 Thread Deacon Patrick
Marketing malfeasance of magnatudinous magnificence!

With abandon,
Patrick

On Wednesday, April 9, 2014 10:17:56 AM UTC-6, Montclair BobbyB wrote:

 [Opinion] Something about gravel and grinding makes me want to grind 
 my teeth... There's probably nothing worse that riding on pure gravel 
 (other than perhaps railroad ballast)... Why can't they better describe it 
 for what it really is???... it's riding unpaved road... whether purely 
 dirt, gravel with dirt, grass, or even ancient pavement... I'd say it's any 
 road where cars may technically be allowed, yet you're likely to see few if 
 any cars...  to me these are pure bliss, and something to be savored, NOT 
 to grind through (unless you're racing, in which case that's like guzzling 
 a great cup of coffee). 

 Peace,
 Bobby (sorry, I don't grind gravel) Birmingham

 On Sunday, April 6, 2014 5:23:29 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 Here is a forum I just discovered for and about riding gravel (gravel 
 grinders), in case anyone else is interested. It's based out of Colorado 
 but open to everyone.
 http://ridinggravel.com

 With abandon,
 Patrick



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[RBW] Re: Does anyone use fenders off road?

2014-04-09 Thread Kevin Mulcahy


 I was offroading with SKS longboards a couple weeks back and they got 
 jammed up and I lost a piece of the strut-mounting hardware along the 
 trail. I fixed it with tape, but a ziptie would have been nice. The tape is 
 still holding the fender in place 3 weeks later


Kevin
Chicago, IL 

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[RBW] Re: Riding Gravel Forum

2014-04-09 Thread Pondero
I do what Bobby does.  He seems to have it sorted out.

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[RBW] Re: Using my Sam as a commuter

2014-04-09 Thread LeahFoy
I thought everyone commuted on their Rivs. I bought this Betty with commuting 
very much in mind. With small kids, I don't get out for long distances, but if 
I didn't commute to their school/church/the park it wouldn't be ridden much at 
all!

Use that Sam!

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Re: [RBW] Re: Using my Sam as a commuter

2014-04-09 Thread Patrick Moore
All this commentary has me deciding to use the gofast for today's PO run.

Just leaving 


On Wed, Apr 9, 2014 at 11:06 AM, LeahFoy jonasandle...@gmail.com wrote:

 I thought everyone commuted on their Rivs. I bought this Betty with
 commuting very much in mind. With small kids, I don't get out for long
 distances, but if I didn't commute to their school/church/the park it
 wouldn't be ridden much at all!

 Use that Sam!

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Re: [RBW] Re: Riding Gravel Forum

2014-04-09 Thread Patrick Moore
If your tires are fat and soft, real gravel isn't bad. I admit that the
route I have in mind is hardly all gravel; it's mostly dirt and gravel. But
there are sections where the gravel is inches deep. Fat, soft, and, I
daresay, 700C tires make it fun.

Patrick 28 is fat on pavement, 2 is skinny on dirt Moore


On Wed, Apr 9, 2014 at 10:17 AM, Montclair BobbyB montclairbob...@gmail.com
 wrote:

 [Opinion] Something about gravel and grinding makes me want to grind
 my teeth... There's probably nothing worse that riding on pure gravel
 (other than perhaps railroad ballast)... Why can't they better describe it
 for what it really is???... it's riding unpaved road... whether purely
 dirt, gravel with dirt, grass, or even ancient pavement... I'd say it's any
 road where cars may technically be allowed, yet you're likely to see few if
 any cars...  to me these are pure bliss, and something to be savored, NOT
 to grind through (unless you're racing, in which case that's like guzzling
 a great cup of coffee).

 Peace,
 Bobby (sorry, I don't grind gravel) Birmingham

 On Sunday, April 6, 2014 5:23:29 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 Here is a forum I just discovered for and about riding gravel (gravel
 grinders), in case anyone else is interested. It's based out of Colorado
 but open to everyone.
 http://ridinggravel.com

 With abandon,
 Patrick

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Re: [RBW] FS: Pre-built 700C dynamo wheel, janked Brooks saddle.

2014-04-09 Thread Shawn Granton
Everything SOLD!

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[RBW] Re: Does anyone use fenders off road?

2014-04-09 Thread Anton Tutter
I've been riding aluminum fenders on all sorts of dirt and gravel, and 
haven't had a problem [yet].

I agree with a previous poster that the sound of little pebbles pinging as 
they ricochet off the underside of the fender can get annoying to some, and 
plastic fenders would mute that noise a little, but it doesn't really 
bother me.

As for mud caking up, I think it has something to do with clearance, and as 
long as I have a 2cm gap between the tire and the fender, I don't have 
issues. On bikes with a really tight gap between the tire and fender (like 
less than 10mm), I get stuff jammed up there sometimes.

Anton

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[RBW] Re: Contemplating 1 x 9 drivetrain

2014-04-09 Thread Garth


Well Patrick, it appears to me that this striving for simplicity is being 
made rather complicated ! yes ?  

Perfection is the I of the beholder. It's not the circumstances that make 
things just as I prefer , it one's attitude, the Feeling that things are 
just as I prefer that creates the experience of perfection.  

It's not about the bike, or anything other than your feeling attitude and 
Assumption of what Is for me.  All the ideas and images for the bike, 
come from that attitude. Attempts to change things without a change of 
attitude and assumption is futile.  Sheer futility !   

So I ask, What is You really want, what is the Feeling of it *already being 
done* ?
THAT feeling . .  BAM !   Live *From* that Feeling, and the rest will take 
care of itself . 


- And for anyone thinks this is too far out for you, it is, so forget you 
ever saw it. Or not.  What do you think LIFE is all about ? Doing this that 
and the other ?   Heck no, the Life is but a means , a means to Feel and 
Express Freedom , Liberation from all the perceived burdens and 
restrictions that One carries with them. Everyone is doing this , all day 
every day. This *Passion*, as they say makes the World go 'round . 

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[RBW] Re: Using my Sam as a commuter

2014-04-09 Thread Ryan
I'd say if you have a secure place to store it, absolutely,ride it. I think 
the Sam looks like an awesome commuter. I'd love to ride my Rivs to work, 
but I'd only do it if I could be sure they were safe. Since one is a custom 
and the other one's an early Waterford-built A/R, they're not easy to 
replace. Ideally , if I had an office (I'm a cube serf) I'd keep my Riv in 
it. We do have a locked cage in the parking lot attached to the building I 
work in, but it has been broken into on more than one occasion. As for 
Rivendell not pushing the commuting aspect of their bikes...well...they 
seem to ride their bikes regularly to and from work...so I would say they 
live the commuting aspect of their bikes, and their bikes are designed for 
real-world applications. Somewhere on their site, Grant does mention that 
commuting might not be feasible for everyone. 
 
Anyway, I hope you find that riding your Sam to and from work is a high 
point of your day.
On Wednesday, April 9, 2014 5:28:08 AM UTC-5, blakcloud wrote:

 This weeks experiment, well maybe the next two weeks, will be using my Sam 
 Hillborne as a commuter. I built the bike up as a leisurely Sunday bike to 
 ride with my wife though I started thinking the bike could do more. 

 I was inspired by a thread last year Could you own one bike? The answer 
 for me was no, but I could trim down the number of bikes I own. I want to 
 minimize and plus I don't have room as I live in a condo and bike parking 
 has become an issue.

 There hasn't been a lot of talk about using Riv's as commuters on this 
 board and even Rivendell doesn't seem to push the commuting aspect for 
 their bikes. The Sam to me, might make a good commuter. My commutes are 60 
 minutes each way, so nothing drastic. It is set up with Albatross's and a 
 Brooks B67, plus the required basket and Mark's rack. The bike currently 
 has Hetre's but I think I will use a pair of Marathons that I also own. I 
 will pick up SKS Longboards today and if the experiment works, a new dynamo 
 front wheel will be built. Ninety five percent of my cycling is commuting 
 so I really need to like the bike I ride. I am hoping the Sam will fit that 
 bill. 



  




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[RBW] Re: Contemplating 1 x 9 drivetrain

2014-04-09 Thread Deacon Patrick
Ha! It's worth pointing out that sometimes a drivetrain is just a 
drivetrain. Grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Wednesday, April 9, 2014 11:42:26 AM UTC-6, Garth wrote:



 Well Patrick, it appears to me that this striving for simplicity is 
 being made rather complicated ! yes ?  

 Perfection is the I of the beholder. It's not the circumstances that make 
 things just as I prefer , it one's attitude, the Feeling that things are 
 just as I prefer that creates the experience of perfection.  

 It's not about the bike, or anything other than your feeling attitude and 
 Assumption of what Is for me.  All the ideas and images for the bike, 
 come from that attitude. Attempts to change things without a change of 
 attitude and assumption is futile.  Sheer futility !   

 So I ask, What is You really want, what is the Feeling of it *already 
 being done* ?
 THAT feeling . .  BAM !   Live *From* that Feeling, and the rest will 
 take care of itself . 


 - And for anyone thinks this is too far out for you, it is, so forget 
 you ever saw it. Or not.  What do you think LIFE is all about ? Doing this 
 that and the other ?   Heck no, the Life is but a means , a means to Feel 
 and Express Freedom , Liberation from all the perceived burdens and 
 restrictions that One carries with them. Everyone is doing this , all day 
 every day. This *Passion*, as they say makes the World go 'round . 



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Re: [RBW] Re: Contemplating 1 x 9 drivetrain

2014-04-09 Thread Steve Palincsar

On 04/09/2014 12:37 PM, Deacon Patrick wrote:
Thanks guys! I'm far more confident in my 2 x 9 choice, though I do 
love the attractiveness of a 1x. Looking back at all the backpacking 
(photos are the closest thing I have to experiential memory) I see 
the hills I climb with a load, and that makes it clear I need the 2 x 
9. Thank you for playing with this with me!


Now, your next step should include refining and lightening your load.  
Over on the iBOB list, not long ago there was a discussion on this 
topic.  I believe with a good selection of the latest equipment it's 
possible to greatly lighten your load without compromising either 
function or comfort.

https://groups.google.com/forum/#!searchin/internet-bob/camping$20equipment/internet-bob/snuT5mNU01Q/_woTXtwVFp0J
Some of this http://alexwetmore.org/?cat=165 might be helpful as well.

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[RBW] Re: Does anyone use fenders off road?

2014-04-09 Thread Ron Mc
my daughters SKS fenders creek everywhere - bumps not required.  As I 
mentioned above, tire completely eliminate ping of aluminum fenders - 
nothing but dust goes in.  

On Wednesday, April 9, 2014 12:39:21 PM UTC-5, Anton Tutter wrote:

 I've been riding aluminum fenders on all sorts of dirt and gravel, and 
 haven't had a problem [yet].

 I agree with a previous poster that the sound of little pebbles pinging as 
 they ricochet off the underside of the fender can get annoying to some, and 
 plastic fenders would mute that noise a little, but it doesn't really 
 bother me.

 As for mud caking up, I think it has something to do with clearance, and 
 as long as I have a 2cm gap between the tire and the fender, I don't have 
 issues. On bikes with a really tight gap between the tire and fender (like 
 less than 10mm), I get stuff jammed up there sometimes.

 Anton


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[RBW] Re: Does anyone use fenders off road?

2014-04-09 Thread Ron Mc
my daughters SKS fenders creak everywhere all the time - bumps not 
required.  As I mentioned above, tire wipers completely eliminate ping of 
aluminum fenders - nothing but dust goes in.  

On Wednesday, April 9, 2014 12:39:21 PM UTC-5, Anton Tutter wrote:

 I've been riding aluminum fenders on all sorts of dirt and gravel, and 
 haven't had a problem [yet].

 I agree with a previous poster that the sound of little pebbles pinging as 
 they ricochet off the underside of the fender can get annoying to some, and 
 plastic fenders would mute that noise a little, but it doesn't really 
 bother me.

 As for mud caking up, I think it has something to do with clearance, and 
 as long as I have a 2cm gap between the tire and the fender, I don't have 
 issues. On bikes with a really tight gap between the tire and fender (like 
 less than 10mm), I get stuff jammed up there sometimes.

 Anton


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Re: [RBW] Re: Does anyone use fenders off road?

2014-04-09 Thread Chris Chen
I've been able to eliminate SKS crk with the following:

Destress the stays as much as possible to reduce strain on the fender.
Make sure to use those dorky plastic stay ends--they keep the stay from
rubbing on the fender and making noise.


On Wed, Apr 9, 2014 at 11:00 AM, Ron Mc bulldog...@gmail.com wrote:

 my daughters SKS fenders creek everywhere - bumps not required.  As I
 mentioned above, tire completely eliminate ping of aluminum fenders -
 nothing but dust goes in.


 On Wednesday, April 9, 2014 12:39:21 PM UTC-5, Anton Tutter wrote:

 I've been riding aluminum fenders on all sorts of dirt and gravel, and
 haven't had a problem [yet].

 I agree with a previous poster that the sound of little pebbles pinging
 as they ricochet off the underside of the fender can get annoying to some,
 and plastic fenders would mute that noise a little, but it doesn't really
 bother me.

 As for mud caking up, I think it has something to do with clearance, and
 as long as I have a 2cm gap between the tire and the fender, I don't have
 issues. On bikes with a really tight gap between the tire and fender (like
 less than 10mm), I get stuff jammed up there sometimes.

 Anton

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[RBW] Re: Contemplating 1 x 9 drivetrain

2014-04-09 Thread Ron Mc
Sheldon has already done the math for us - put in your sprockets and try a 
few chainrings to see what you like.  

On Wednesday, April 9, 2014 12:50:14 PM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 Ha! It's worth pointing out that sometimes a drivetrain is just a 
 drivetrain. Grin.

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 On Wednesday, April 9, 2014 11:42:26 AM UTC-6, Garth wrote:



 Well Patrick, it appears to me that this striving for simplicity is 
 being made rather complicated ! yes ?  

 Perfection is the I of the beholder. It's not the circumstances that make 
 things just as I prefer , it one's attitude, the Feeling that things are 
 just as I prefer that creates the experience of perfection.  

 It's not about the bike, or anything other than your feeling attitude and 
 Assumption of what Is for me.  All the ideas and images for the bike, 
 come from that attitude. Attempts to change things without a change of 
 attitude and assumption is futile.  Sheer futility !   

 So I ask, What is You really want, what is the Feeling of it *already 
 being done* ?
 THAT feeling . .  BAM !   Live *From* that Feeling, and the rest will 
 take care of itself . 


 - And for anyone thinks this is too far out for you, it is, so forget 
 you ever saw it. Or not.  What do you think LIFE is all about ? Doing this 
 that and the other ?   Heck no, the Life is but a means , a means to Feel 
 and Express Freedom , Liberation from all the perceived burdens and 
 restrictions that One carries with them. Everyone is doing this , all day 
 every day. This *Passion*, as they say makes the World go 'round . 



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Re: [RBW] Re: Contemplating 1 x 9 drivetrain

2014-04-09 Thread Deacon Patrick
Thanks, Steve. No worries there. I'm already as light as I care to go (and 
lighter than most from what I can tell). There are too many things that 
happen unexpectedly, I I prefer a bit of weight to have gear to handle 
them. Like funnel clouds on Pikes Peak last year. Or record rains. Or... 
Grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Wednesday, April 9, 2014 11:55:13 AM UTC-6, Steve Palincsar wrote:

 On 04/09/2014 12:37 PM, Deacon Patrick wrote: 
  Thanks guys! I'm far more confident in my 2 x 9 choice, though I do 
  love the attractiveness of a 1x. Looking back at all the backpacking 
  (photos are the closest thing I have to experiential memory) I see 
  the hills I climb with a load, and that makes it clear I need the 2 x 
  9. Thank you for playing with this with me! 

 Now, your next step should include refining and lightening your load.   
 Over on the iBOB list, not long ago there was a discussion on this 
 topic.  I believe with a good selection of the latest equipment it's 
 possible to greatly lighten your load without compromising either 
 function or comfort. 

 https://groups.google.com/forum/#!searchin/internet-bob/camping$20equipment/internet-bob/snuT5mNU01Q/_woTXtwVFp0J
  
 Some of this http://alexwetmore.org/?cat=165 might be helpful as well. 



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[RBW] Bay Area Overnight, May 16, 17, 18?

2014-04-09 Thread Chris Chen
Gonna be around. Anyone up for a quick overnight one of those nights?

cc

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Re: [RBW] Re: Contemplating 1 x 9 drivetrain

2014-04-09 Thread Matthew J
I really like 9 speed for the 36T cassette though. Best bike component to 
come out in the last decade or so. 

Appears he does no longer, but Jeff Jones for a time modified the 9 into a 
6 speed cassette with a 36 (or is it 38?  Will have to check) low gear. 
 The modified cassette works with a single speed hub allowing for less dish 
on the wheel.

On Wednesday, April 9, 2014 8:26:55 AM UTC-5, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

 Define shifting ease? There's really no difference between 8 or 9 in 
 amount of effort to shift??? I really like 9 speed for the 36T cassette 
 though. Best bike component to come out in the last decade or so.

 Cheers,
 David

 it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal





 On Wed, Apr 9, 2014 at 3:02 AM, Deacon Patrick lamon...@mac.comjavascript:
  wrote:

 Another great point to consider, as I'm currently using an 8 speed 
 cassette. How much drop off in shifting ease have you experienced with your 
 9x2 in the rear vs. an 8, David?

 With abandon,
 Patrick


 On Tuesday, April 8, 2014 9:03:38 PM UTC-6, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

 Larry, eight speed is nice as well, as they still use a regular chain.

 Cheers,
 David

 it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal





 On Tue, Apr 8, 2014 at 8:02 PM, LF fie...@gmail.com wrote:

  Patrick my friend,
 Not exactly to the point, but I think 7-speed rear clusters are at the 
 pinacle of bike gear technology. They are more forgiving when shifting, 
 last longer, have wider chains. Simple and practical! A nice wide range 
 2X7 
  Roll on!
 Best,
 Larry

 On Tuesday, April 8, 2014 9:45:03 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 I am contemplating whether to go 1 x 9 or 2 x 9 with my drive train. 
 here is the gear ration range comparison:

 In gain ratios:

 Current range (excluding my big ring, which I rarely use and will be 
 dropping):
 1.5 - 6

 1 x 9 (28 x 12-36)
 1.6 - 4.7

 2 x 9 (24/36 x 12-36)
 1.3 - 6

 I don’t really need lower than 1.5, and I am unsure how the drop to 
 4.7 from 6 translates to speed loss. On flat or gradual descents, I 
 suspect 
 I would miss those upper gears. Can anyone provide their wisdom here?

 I am asking the question because I want to go as simple as is 
 practical. I’d love to go with the 36t on a 1x set up, but it would add 
 significantly to the number of hills i’m walking, especially when 
 bikepacking. Perhaps going with a 30 or 32t 1x set up is the way to go? I 
 will no doubt get stronger and the loss may not be a big deal with that. 
 But then it’s better to lose gears on the upper range and coast more, and 
 enjoy the ride on the climbs without killing myself.

 All wisdom deeply appreciated.
  
 With abandon,
 Patrick

 *www.MindYourHeadCoop.org http://www.MindYourHeadCoop.org*
 *www.OurHolyConception.org http://www.OurHolyConception.org*
  
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[RBW] Re: Using my Sam as a commuter

2014-04-09 Thread Kieran J
Blakcloud, you and me both know the knarly streets of Toronto eats nice 
bikes for breakfast. I too have gradually eased my stress on having a bike 
stolen and/or damaged when out and about, but it has taken awhile. I've 
only had a bike stolen once - an old Bianchi that I thought I had locked 
up, but hadn't (at Yonge and Dundas Square where all the crackheads hang 
out, no less). So more on me than anyone else. D'oh!
 
I also get the desire to ride a bike you like. My 95% of riding (commuting) 
is done on a too-small Cross Check, which certainly is my least-fav bike in 
my stable. On top of that, I have a porteur rack and big Wald on the front 
of it, which needless to say, does not improve the handling. BUT! if 
something happened to it, I would also be the least upset and would get 
over it. I also rode it right through the winter, and had few 
qualms exposing it to all of that hell.
 
After riding the Ram all weekend, it sure was hard going back onto that 
Surly tank Monday morning. But so it goes..
 
KJ
 

On Wednesday, April 9, 2014 6:28:08 AM UTC-4, blakcloud wrote:

 This weeks experiment, well maybe the next two weeks, will be using my Sam 
 Hillborne as a commuter. I built the bike up as a leisurely Sunday bike to 
 ride with my wife though I started thinking the bike could do more. 

 I was inspired by a thread last year Could you own one bike? The answer 
 for me was no, but I could trim down the number of bikes I own. I want to 
 minimize and plus I don't have room as I live in a condo and bike parking 
 has become an issue.

 There hasn't been a lot of talk about using Riv's as commuters on this 
 board and even Rivendell doesn't seem to push the commuting aspect for 
 their bikes. The Sam to me, might make a good commuter. My commutes are 60 
 minutes each way, so nothing drastic. It is set up with Albatross's and a 
 Brooks B67, plus the required basket and Mark's rack. The bike currently 
 has Hetre's but I think I will use a pair of Marathons that I also own. I 
 will pick up SKS Longboards today and if the experiment works, a new dynamo 
 front wheel will be built. Ninety five percent of my cycling is commuting 
 so I really need to like the bike I ride. I am hoping the Sam will fit that 
 bill. 



  




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[RBW] Riv-ish Shop in Chicago?

2014-04-09 Thread Michael Fleischman
Anyone know of a Riv-ish shop in Chicago?

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Re: [RBW] Re: Does anyone use fenders off road?

2014-04-09 Thread Neil
Another vote for Longboards in the dirt. I've never had a problem with a 
jammed front fender, but the fear of that happening keeps me away from 
metal fenders, although they look lovely to me. I've never noticed creak, 
rattle, or otherwise with plastic fenders.

On Wednesday, April 9, 2014 11:02:14 AM UTC-7, Christopher Chen wrote:

 I've been able to eliminate SKS crk with the following:

 Destress the stays as much as possible to reduce strain on the fender.
 Make sure to use those dorky plastic stay ends--they keep the stay from 
 rubbing on the fender and making noise.


 On Wed, Apr 9, 2014 at 11:00 AM, Ron Mc bulld...@gmail.com 
 javascript:wrote:

 my daughters SKS fenders creek everywhere - bumps not required.  As I 
 mentioned above, tire completely eliminate ping of aluminum fenders - 
 nothing but dust goes in.  


 On Wednesday, April 9, 2014 12:39:21 PM UTC-5, Anton Tutter wrote:

 I've been riding aluminum fenders on all sorts of dirt and gravel, and 
 haven't had a problem [yet].

 I agree with a previous poster that the sound of little pebbles pinging 
 as they ricochet off the underside of the fender can get annoying to some, 
 and plastic fenders would mute that noise a little, but it doesn't really 
 bother me.

 As for mud caking up, I think it has something to do with clearance, and 
 as long as I have a 2cm gap between the tire and the fender, I don't have 
 issues. On bikes with a really tight gap between the tire and fender (like 
 less than 10mm), I get stuff jammed up there sometimes.

 Anton

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[RBW] 26 Tire Suggestions?

2014-04-09 Thread Michael Ullmer
Hi all, I just acquired a Koga Miyata Valley Runner frame that I've got to 
outfit with some new wheels and tires. I haven't been in the world of 26 
wheels or tires for quite a few years and need some suggestions on tires. 
The frame can fit 2 tires comfortably with fenders. 2.15 would be the 
largest with fenders but I would like to stick with 2. I'm looking for 
smooth tires with no knobs. Suggestions anyone? Additionally, does anyone 
have any tires lying around they need to get off their hands? Thanks! I'll 
post a picture of the build when I'm all done with it. A few of you have 
contributed items to this build in the past few days (Nitto R-15, Marks 
Rack, Platrack, Slickersack, Saddlebag Grip)., thank you all so much! 
Cheers!

Mike U
Seattle

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[RBW] Re: Using my Sam as a commuter

2014-04-09 Thread Dave
I commute 18 miles RT to work, and am thankful to have a shower and bike 
storage at my job.  Plus a little kitchenette for coffee and breakfast!

Protobleriot with bosco bullmoose bars, front basket, and sackville 
saddlebags.  It's my only bike, which is one way for it to qualify as does 
everything

On Wednesday, April 9, 2014 11:49:58 AM UTC-7, Kieran J wrote:

 Blakcloud, you and me both know the knarly streets of Toronto eats nice 
 bikes for breakfast. I too have gradually eased my stress on having a bike 
 stolen and/or damaged when out and about, but it has taken awhile. I've 
 only had a bike stolen once - an old Bianchi that I thought I had locked 
 up, but hadn't (at Yonge and Dundas Square where all the crackheads hang 
 out, no less). So more on me than anyone else. D'oh!
  
 I also get the desire to ride a bike you like. My 95% of riding 
 (commuting) is done on a too-small Cross Check, which certainly is my 
 least-fav bike in my stable. On top of that, I have a porteur rack and big 
 Wald on the front of it, which needless to say, does not improve the 
 handling. BUT! if something happened to it, I would also be the least upset 
 and would get over it. I also rode it right through the winter, and had few 
 qualms exposing it to all of that hell.
  
 After riding the Ram all weekend, it sure was hard going back onto that 
 Surly tank Monday morning. But so it goes..
  
 KJ
  

 On Wednesday, April 9, 2014 6:28:08 AM UTC-4, blakcloud wrote:

 This weeks experiment, well maybe the next two weeks, will be using my 
 Sam Hillborne as a commuter. I built the bike up as a leisurely Sunday bike 
 to ride with my wife though I started thinking the bike could do more. 

 I was inspired by a thread last year Could you own one bike? The answer 
 for me was no, but I could trim down the number of bikes I own. I want to 
 minimize and plus I don't have room as I live in a condo and bike parking 
 has become an issue.

 There hasn't been a lot of talk about using Riv's as commuters on this 
 board and even Rivendell doesn't seem to push the commuting aspect for 
 their bikes. The Sam to me, might make a good commuter. My commutes are 60 
 minutes each way, so nothing drastic. It is set up with Albatross's and a 
 Brooks B67, plus the required basket and Mark's rack. The bike currently 
 has Hetre's but I think I will use a pair of Marathons that I also own. I 
 will pick up SKS Longboards today and if the experiment works, a new dynamo 
 front wheel will be built. Ninety five percent of my cycling is commuting 
 so I really need to like the bike I ride. I am hoping the Sam will fit that 
 bill. 



  




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[RBW] Re: Riv-ish Shop in Chicago?

2014-04-09 Thread David Banzer
Boulevard in Logan Square.
Comrade Cycles - West Town (this is my go-to LBS)
Bunch of others, these just came to mind quickly.
David
Chicago!

On Wednesday, April 9, 2014 1:53:46 PM UTC-5, Michael Fleischman wrote:

 Anyone know of a Riv-ish shop in Chicago?

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[RBW] WTB: Technomic Deluxe 10cm Stem, 26.0mm Possible Pedal Swap.

2014-04-09 Thread David Banzer
Yes, please.
Finishing the tinkering of my new Redwood, and need:
Nitto Technomic Deluxe (190mm tall one) - 10cm, 26.0mm clamp

ALSO!
I got the Thin Gripsters (VP-001) in green. The product photo online showed 
a near perfect match to Redwood green. They arrived and are much darker 
than anticipated.
Mounted, rode around the block a few times on test rides.

I like them, but wish I could track down a silver set (which VP's website 
says exist, but I can't seem to find them for sale anywhere)
So, trade my green ones for silver or dark grey ones OR for MKS Grip Kings, 
which I know I like.

If a trade does not materialize, I might try my hand at removing the green 
anodizing. We'll see...

Thanks in advance,
David
Chicago

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[RBW] Re: Riv-ish Shop in Chicago?

2014-04-09 Thread Michael Fleischman
Anything on the southside / south suburbs?  Unfortunately, limited to this area.

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[RBW] FS: New pair Challenge Parigi-Roubaix 700x27 clinchers (29-30mm actual)

2014-04-09 Thread Anton Tutter
I've got a pair of new, never mounted, Challenge Parigis that I've been 
holding onto as a spare set to have on hand.  These are the clincher 
version, gumwall, and measure a plump 29-30mm on Super Champion rims.

I have another set of these on one of my bikes and I love them, hence the 
backup set!  Extremely smooth and supple ride. But I need to divest of my 
spare collections of bikey stuff to help fund a new project, so the spare 
set needs to go.

$90 shipped CONUS.

Contact off-list if interested.

Anton

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[RBW] Re: Riv-ish Shop in Chicago?

2014-04-09 Thread Matthew J
Lloyd at Blue City in Bridgeport started out at Boulevard.  He is generally 
empathetic to the RBW style.

On Wednesday, April 9, 2014 2:37:04 PM UTC-5, Michael Fleischman wrote:

 Anything on the southside / south suburbs?  Unfortunately, limited to this 
 area.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Contemplating 1 x 9 drivetrain

2014-04-09 Thread Steve Palincsar

On 04/09/2014 02:09 PM, Deacon Patrick wrote:
Thanks, Steve. No worries there. I'm already as light as I care to go 
(and lighter than most from what I can tell). There are too many 
things that happen unexpectedly, I I prefer a bit of weight to have 
gear to handle them. Like funnel clouds on Pikes Peak last year. Or 
record rains.


The joy of this is the equipment retains all its functionality, it's 
just that it's gotten lighter.



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[RBW] Re: Riv-ish Shop in Chicago?

2014-04-09 Thread Kevin Mulcahy
If you're looking for neat eye-candy shops go to Watsyn Cycles, Cycle 
Smithy and Yojimbo's Garage. Not strictly riv-ish but very cool in their 
own right and worth the trip from the south side. 


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Re: [RBW] Re: Contemplating 1 x 9 drivetrain

2014-04-09 Thread Deacon Patrick
Och, Steve! You're cute. Grin. Do you know what I take or what my stuff 
weighs? 60 pounds including food and water for 21 days. Lighter than that 
is possible, but I've been there, done that and no, the light weight stuff 
always sacrifices more than weight. Basic kit is under 20 pounds.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Wednesday, April 9, 2014 2:28:04 PM UTC-6, Steve Palincsar wrote:

 On 04/09/2014 02:09 PM, Deacon Patrick wrote: 
  Thanks, Steve. No worries there. I'm already as light as I care to go 
  (and lighter than most from what I can tell). There are too many 
  things that happen unexpectedly, I I prefer a bit of weight to have 
  gear to handle them. Like funnel clouds on Pikes Peak last year. Or 
  record rains. 

 The joy of this is the equipment retains all its functionality, it's 
 just that it's gotten lighter. 




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Re: [RBW] Re: Using my Sam as a commuter

2014-04-09 Thread Patrick Moore
J: my solution to the matter of a beater that can be stolen without
tragedy has been to find old but nice bikes that as closely as possible
imitate my good ones. The old Motobecane that I sold to Eric Norris (it
was stolen in that the price was a steal) was one such, and I have had
many others. One great fun one was an old sport-tourer Raleigh Technium
that I picked up very cheap and built even cheaper. i don't know why they
bothered with the aluminum, since it was a huge tank, and as noodley as a
-- noodle; but with fattish 32 mm tires and a 68 fixed gear, it was a fun
ride.

I realize that one can have fun riding just about anything -- well, there
are some exceptions -- but life is too short to waste most of your riding
on something that isn't fun enough.

My gawd, man, get yourself a bike that fits, at least!


On Wed, Apr 9, 2014 at 12:49 PM, Kieran J kjo...@gmail.com wrote:

 Blakcloud, you and me both know the knarly streets of Toronto eats nice
 bikes for breakfast. I too have gradually eased my stress on having a bike
 stolen and/or damaged when out and about, but it has taken awhile. I've
 only had a bike stolen once - an old Bianchi that I thought I had locked
 up, but hadn't (at Yonge and Dundas Square where all the crackheads hang
 out, no less). So more on me than anyone else. D'oh!

 I also get the desire to ride a bike you like. My 95% of riding
 (commuting) is done on a too-small Cross Check, which certainly is my
 least-fav bike in my stable. On top of that, I have a porteur rack and big
 Wald on the front of it, which needless to say, does not improve the
 handling. BUT! if something happened to it, I would also be the least upset
 and would get over it. I also rode it right through the winter, and had few
 qualms exposing it to all of that hell.

 After riding the Ram all weekend, it sure was hard going back onto that
 Surly tank Monday morning. But so it goes..

 KJ


 On Wednesday, April 9, 2014 6:28:08 AM UTC-4, blakcloud wrote:

 This weeks experiment, well maybe the next two weeks, will be using my
 Sam Hillborne as a commuter. I built the bike up as a leisurely Sunday bike
 to ride with my wife though I started thinking the bike could do more.

 I was inspired by a thread last year Could you own one bike? The answer
 for me was no, but I could trim down the number of bikes I own. I want to
 minimize and plus I don't have room as I live in a condo and bike parking
 has become an issue.

 There hasn't been a lot of talk about using Riv's as commuters on this
 board and even Rivendell doesn't seem to push the commuting aspect for
 their bikes. The Sam to me, might make a good commuter. My commutes are 60
 minutes each way, so nothing drastic. It is set up with Albatross's and a
 Brooks B67, plus the required basket and Mark's rack. The bike currently
 has Hetre's but I think I will use a pair of Marathons that I also own. I
 will pick up SKS Longboards today and if the experiment works, a new dynamo
 front wheel will be built. Ninety five percent of my cycling is commuting
 so I really need to like the bike I ride. I am hoping the Sam will fit that
 bill.






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Re: [RBW] 26 Tire Suggestions?

2014-04-09 Thread Patrick Moore
50 mm 559 Kojaks. Worth the $$.


On Tue, Apr 8, 2014 at 11:21 PM, Michael Ullmer mjull...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hi all, I just acquired a Koga Miyata Valley Runner frame that I've got to
 outfit with some new wheels and tires. I haven't been in the world of 26
 wheels or tires for quite a few years and need some suggestions on tires.
 The frame can fit 2 tires comfortably with fenders. 2.15 would be the
 largest with fenders but I would like to stick with 2. I'm looking for
 smooth tires with no knobs. Suggestions anyone? Additionally, does anyone
 have any tires lying around they need to get off their hands? Thanks! I'll
 post a picture of the build when I'm all done with it. A few of you have
 contributed items to this build in the past few days (Nitto R-15, Marks
 Rack, Platrack, Slickersack, Saddlebag Grip)., thank you all so much!
 Cheers!

 Mike U
 Seattle

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[RBW] Re: 26 Tire Suggestions?

2014-04-09 Thread Michael Hechmer
Marathon Racers 1.6,  if you are looking for a good rolling street tire.  I 
run them on my tandem, over lots of dirt  paved roads.  One flat in about 
1,000 miles.

Michael

On Wednesday, April 9, 2014 1:21:22 AM UTC-4, Michael Ullmer wrote:

 Hi all, I just acquired a Koga Miyata Valley Runner frame that I've got to 
 outfit with some new wheels and tires. I haven't been in the world of 26 
 wheels or tires for quite a few years and need some suggestions on tires. 
 The frame can fit 2 tires comfortably with fenders. 2.15 would be the 
 largest with fenders but I would like to stick with 2. I'm looking for 
 smooth tires with no knobs. Suggestions anyone? Additionally, does anyone 
 have any tires lying around they need to get off their hands? Thanks! I'll 
 post a picture of the build when I'm all done with it. A few of you have 
 contributed items to this build in the past few days (Nitto R-15, Marks 
 Rack, Platrack, Slickersack, Saddlebag Grip)., thank you all so much! 
 Cheers!

 Mike U
 Seattle


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[RBW] Used (Vince's) 60cm Betty Foy at Rivbike

2014-04-09 Thread Joe Bernard
This is a raging deal on a nicely-put-together Betty. They have a couple of 
bigger light-blue San Marcos frames for sale, too (Soma has switched to a 
darker blue).

http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/wsf-089.htm

Joe Bernard
Vallejo, CA.

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[RBW] Re: 26 Tire Suggestions?

2014-04-09 Thread WETH
I have enjoyed riding on Schwalbe Big Apples (26x2.0 and 26x2.15)for several 
years.  For something a little skinnier, I recently mounted a set of Compass 
26x1.75 and have liked the ride.

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[RBW] Re: Contemplating 1 x 9 drivetrain

2014-04-09 Thread Michael Hechmer
Deacon,  I'm sitting in an Inn after a hard drive across a chunk of Md., 
all of Delaware, NJ, and up NY to Rhinebeck so my brain is too tired for a 
full answer.  So here's the short version.

All gearing combinations involve trade offs among 4 variables - hi/low 
which you have identified; but also how big the jumps are between gears; 
the ease of getting from one gear to the next; and where your favorite 
gears are. 

The wider the hi/low range the wider the steps between gears, but this can 
be counteracted to some degree by going to a dbl and then a triple.  A wide 
range cassette always yields large steps between gears, which I don't like. 
  I usually run a 12-27 or at most an 11-28.  Even with that, on our riding 
in flat Virginia I only used 3 gears but two of them were too far apart.

So the double will let you get a pretty wide range with smaller steps.  But 
with many doubles the next gear can be an awkward front shift and a 2 or 3 
click rear shift leaving you between the gear you would really like.  A 
ring difference of 10 tends to yield the simplest shifting pattern - a 
single click to the next gear.   14 tooth difference yields 2 clicks to the 
next gear.  I tend to find the 12 difference leaving me between gears.  I 
try to create sets with about 10% between gears  especially in the most 
used middle.

Finally, think about which gears you use the most and try to get a good 
chain line and easy pattern between them.

I rarely use a ratio of less than 1 to 1 and never more than 4-1.  For 
example my Ram has a 44/30 and an 11/27 while the Saluki a 48/34/26 (24 for 
big long climbs) with a 12-27.  The tandem, likes easy shifting, so 
48/38/28 with a 12-27.  It feels very stressful to me to try to spin a 
ratio much below 1-1 fast enough to keep a bike upright for a long time. 
 To each his own.

Simplification is good, over simplification makes life more complicated 
than it needs to be.

Michael


On Tuesday, April 8, 2014 9:45:03 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 I am contemplating whether to go 1 x 9 or 2 x 9 with my drive train. here 
 is the gear ration range comparison:

 In gain ratios:

 Current range (excluding my big ring, which I rarely use and will be 
 dropping):
 1.5 - 6

 1 x 9 (28 x 12-36)
 1.6 - 4.7

 2 x 9 (24/36 x 12-36)
 1.3 - 6

 I don’t really need lower than 1.5, and I am unsure how the drop to 4.7 
 from 6 translates to speed loss. On flat or gradual descents, I suspect I 
 would miss those upper gears. Can anyone provide their wisdom here?

 I am asking the question because I want to go as simple as is practical. 
 I’d love to go with the 36t on a 1x set up, but it would add significantly 
 to the number of hills i’m walking, especially when bikepacking. Perhaps 
 going with a 30 or 32t 1x set up is the way to go? I will no doubt get 
 stronger and the loss may not be a big deal with that. But then it’s better 
 to lose gears on the upper range and coast more, and enjoy the ride on the 
 climbs without killing myself.

 All wisdom deeply appreciated.

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 *www.MindYourHeadCoop.org http://www.MindYourHeadCoop.org*
 *www.OurHolyConception.org http://www.OurHolyConception.org*
  


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[RBW] Re: Contemplating 1 x 9 drivetrain

2014-04-09 Thread Deacon Patrick
Thanks, Michael! Rest well after your long drive! Yes, indeed. The 
challenge of simplicity is the complexity of discovering what is essential 
and what is noise. Grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Wednesday, April 9, 2014 3:36:16 PM UTC-6, Michael Hechmer wrote:

 Deacon,  I'm sitting in an Inn after a hard drive across a chunk of Md., 
 all of Delaware, NJ, and up NY to Rhinebeck so my brain is too tired for a 
 full answer.  So here's the short version.

 All gearing combinations involve trade offs among 4 variables - hi/low 
 which you have identified; but also how big the jumps are between gears; 
 the ease of getting from one gear to the next; and where your favorite 
 gears are. 

 The wider the hi/low range the wider the steps between gears, but this can 
 be counteracted to some degree by going to a dbl and then a triple.  A wide 
 range cassette always yields large steps between gears, which I don't like. 
   I usually run a 12-27 or at most an 11-28.  Even with that, on our riding 
 in flat Virginia I only used 3 gears but two of them were too far apart.

 So the double will let you get a pretty wide range with smaller steps. 
  But with many doubles the next gear can be an awkward front shift and a 2 
 or 3 click rear shift leaving you between the gear you would really like. 
  A ring difference of 10 tends to yield the simplest shifting pattern - a 
 single click to the next gear.   14 tooth difference yields 2 clicks to the 
 next gear.  I tend to find the 12 difference leaving me between gears.  I 
 try to create sets with about 10% between gears  especially in the most 
 used middle.

 Finally, think about which gears you use the most and try to get a good 
 chain line and easy pattern between them.

 I rarely use a ratio of less than 1 to 1 and never more than 4-1.  For 
 example my Ram has a 44/30 and an 11/27 while the Saluki a 48/34/26 (24 for 
 big long climbs) with a 12-27.  The tandem, likes easy shifting, so 
 48/38/28 with a 12-27.  It feels very stressful to me to try to spin a 
 ratio much below 1-1 fast enough to keep a bike upright for a long time. 
  To each his own.

 Simplification is good, over simplification makes life more complicated 
 than it needs to be.

 Michael


 On Tuesday, April 8, 2014 9:45:03 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 I am contemplating whether to go 1 x 9 or 2 x 9 with my drive train. here 
 is the gear ration range comparison:

 In gain ratios:

 Current range (excluding my big ring, which I rarely use and will be 
 dropping):
 1.5 - 6

 1 x 9 (28 x 12-36)
 1.6 - 4.7

 2 x 9 (24/36 x 12-36)
 1.3 - 6

 I don’t really need lower than 1.5, and I am unsure how the drop to 4.7 
 from 6 translates to speed loss. On flat or gradual descents, I suspect I 
 would miss those upper gears. Can anyone provide their wisdom here?

 I am asking the question because I want to go as simple as is practical. 
 I’d love to go with the 36t on a 1x set up, but it would add significantly 
 to the number of hills i’m walking, especially when bikepacking. Perhaps 
 going with a 30 or 32t 1x set up is the way to go? I will no doubt get 
 stronger and the loss may not be a big deal with that. But then it’s better 
 to lose gears on the upper range and coast more, and enjoy the ride on the 
 climbs without killing myself.

 All wisdom deeply appreciated.

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 *www.MindYourHeadCoop.org http://www.MindYourHeadCoop.org*
 *www.OurHolyConception.org http://www.OurHolyConception.org*
  


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Re: [RBW] Re: Contemplating 1 x 9 drivetrain

2014-04-09 Thread Steve Palincsar

On 04/09/2014 05:36 PM, Michael Hechmer wrote:
Deacon,  I'm sitting in an Inn after a hard drive across a chunk of 
Md., all of Delaware, NJ, and up NY to Rhinebeck so my brain is too 
tired for a full answer.  So here's the short version.


All gearing combinations involve trade offs among 4 variables - hi/low 
which you have identified; but also how big the jumps are between 
gears; the ease of getting from one gear to the next; and where your 
favorite gears are.


The wider the hi/low range the wider the steps between gears, but this 
can be counteracted to some degree by going to a dbl and then a 
triple.  A wide range cassette always yields large steps between 
gears, which I don't like.   I usually run a 12-27 or at most an 
11-28.  Even with that, on our riding in flat Virginia I only used 3 
gears but two of them were too far apart.


So the double will let you get a pretty wide range with smaller steps. 
 But with many doubles the next gear can be an awkward front shift and 
a 2 or 3 click rear shift leaving you between the gear you would 
really like.  A ring difference of 10 tends to yield the simplest 
shifting pattern - a single click to the next gear.   14 tooth 
difference yields 2 clicks to the next gear.  I tend to find the 12 
difference leaving me between gears.  I try to create sets with about 
10% between gears  especially in the most used middle.


Finally, think about which gears you use the most and try to get a 
good chain line and easy pattern between them.


I rarely use a ratio of less than 1 to 1 and never more than 4-1.  For 
example my Ram has a 44/30 and an 11/27 while the Saluki a 48/34/26 
(24 for big long climbs) with a 12-27.  The tandem, likes easy 
shifting, so 48/38/28 with a 12-27.  It feels very stressful to me to 
try to spin a ratio much below 1-1 fast enough to keep a bike upright 
for a long time.  To each his own.


Simplification is good, over simplification makes life more 
complicated than it needs to be.




Bloody marvelous answer.  It's hard to see how a not-tired brain could 
improve upon this in any respect.


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Re: [RBW] Re: Using my Sam as a commuter

2014-04-09 Thread Curtis McKenzie
10 mile round trip four days a week on my AHH.  Oh what fun it is getting
to and from work.  Well I must pack up and hit the road for another commute
adventure.


On Wed, Apr 9, 2014 at 1:36 PM, Patrick Moore bertin...@gmail.com wrote:

 J: my solution to the matter of a beater that can be stolen without
 tragedy has been to find old but nice bikes that as closely as possible
 imitate my good ones. The old Motobecane that I sold to Eric Norris (it
 was stolen in that the price was a steal) was one such, and I have had
 many others. One great fun one was an old sport-tourer Raleigh Technium
 that I picked up very cheap and built even cheaper. i don't know why they
 bothered with the aluminum, since it was a huge tank, and as noodley as a
 -- noodle; but with fattish 32 mm tires and a 68 fixed gear, it was a fun
 ride.

 I realize that one can have fun riding just about anything -- well, there
 are some exceptions -- but life is too short to waste most of your riding
 on something that isn't fun enough.

 My gawd, man, get yourself a bike that fits, at least!


 On Wed, Apr 9, 2014 at 12:49 PM, Kieran J kjo...@gmail.com wrote:

 Blakcloud, you and me both know the knarly streets of Toronto eats nice
 bikes for breakfast. I too have gradually eased my stress on having a bike
 stolen and/or damaged when out and about, but it has taken awhile. I've
 only had a bike stolen once - an old Bianchi that I thought I had locked
 up, but hadn't (at Yonge and Dundas Square where all the crackheads hang
 out, no less). So more on me than anyone else. D'oh!

 I also get the desire to ride a bike you like. My 95% of riding
 (commuting) is done on a too-small Cross Check, which certainly is my
 least-fav bike in my stable. On top of that, I have a porteur rack and big
 Wald on the front of it, which needless to say, does not improve the
 handling. BUT! if something happened to it, I would also be the least upset
 and would get over it. I also rode it right through the winter, and had few
 qualms exposing it to all of that hell.

 After riding the Ram all weekend, it sure was hard going back onto that
 Surly tank Monday morning. But so it goes..

 KJ


 On Wednesday, April 9, 2014 6:28:08 AM UTC-4, blakcloud wrote:

 This weeks experiment, well maybe the next two weeks, will be using my
 Sam Hillborne as a commuter. I built the bike up as a leisurely Sunday bike
 to ride with my wife though I started thinking the bike could do more.

 I was inspired by a thread last year Could you own one bike? The
 answer for me was no, but I could trim down the number of bikes I own. I
 want to minimize and plus I don't have room as I live in a condo and bike
 parking has become an issue.

 There hasn't been a lot of talk about using Riv's as commuters on this
 board and even Rivendell doesn't seem to push the commuting aspect for
 their bikes. The Sam to me, might make a good commuter. My commutes are 60
 minutes each way, so nothing drastic. It is set up with Albatross's and a
 Brooks B67, plus the required basket and Mark's rack. The bike currently
 has Hetre's but I think I will use a pair of Marathons that I also own. I
 will pick up SKS Longboards today and if the experiment works, a new dynamo
 front wheel will be built. Ninety five percent of my cycling is commuting
 so I really need to like the bike I ride. I am hoping the Sam will fit that
 bill.






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 Other professional writing services.
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[RBW] WTT: Baggins Panniers for an Albastache bar

2014-04-09 Thread jinxed
In building up my Hilsen, I need to change my stem, which means unwrapping 
the bars...I have been wanting to try the Albastach for some time so 
thought this would be a good point to do it.

I started looking around for something to finance it and realized I had a 
set of Baggins panniers in waxed tan that I got pre-owned off the forum and 
have never used in 2 (?) years...maybe someone would like to trade??? Or 
sell for $100 shipped in the USA?

Quick pic. Some road dirt from PO, but all in all pretty darn excellent 
condition. https://www.flickr.com/photos/42027576@N00/13700575915/

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Re: [RBW] WTT: Baggins Panniers for an Albastache bar

2014-04-09 Thread Mike Williams
Hey there,  its Brad right?   I might have exchanged some emails in the past 
with you via the forum.How do the bags attach?   You just throw them over 
the rack and use an irish strap to secure them?   Im potentially interested if 
you havnt sold them yet.  Thanks-Mike

Sent from my iPhone

 On Apr 9, 2014, at 3:46 PM, jinxed hbcl...@yahoo.com wrote:
 
 In building up my Hilsen, I need to change my stem, which means unwrapping 
 the bars...I have been wanting to try the Albastach for some time so thought 
 this would be a good point to do it.
 
 I started looking around for something to finance it and realized I had a set 
 of Baggins panniers in waxed tan that I got pre-owned off the forum and have 
 never used in 2 (?) years...maybe someone would like to trade??? Or sell for 
 $100 shipped in the USA?
 
 Quick pic. Some road dirt from PO, but all in all pretty darn excellent 
 condition.
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Re: [RBW] Bay Area Overnight, May 16, 17, 18?

2014-04-09 Thread Mike Williams
Hey CC, i could be down to camp Sunday night( 18th).  Let me know, -Mike

Sent from my iPhone

 On Apr 9, 2014, at 11:17 AM, Chris Chen cc...@nougat.org wrote:
 
 Gonna be around. Anyone up for a quick overnight one of those nights?
 
 cc
 
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[RBW] WTB: Technomic Deluxe 10cm Stem, 26.0mm Possible Pedal Swap.

2014-04-09 Thread justinaugust
Check out the VP-Vice at Ocean Air Cycles 

-J

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Re: [RBW] WTT: Baggins Panniers for an Albastache bar

2014-04-09 Thread jinxed
Brad indeed. And good question. I've never mounted them, so I had to look, 
and I think you're absolutely correct. There is a simple leather belt 
loop riveted on the backside of each bag that would serve as a lashing 
point, and an Irish strap would be perfect.

On Wednesday, April 9, 2014 4:55:37 PM UTC-6, Michael Williams wrote:

 Hey there,  its Brad right?   I might have exchanged some emails in the 
 past with you via the forum.How do the bags attach?   You just throw 
 them over the rack and use an irish strap to secure them?   Im potentially 
 interested if you havnt sold them yet.  Thanks-Mike




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[RBW] Re: 29er x 2.5 Fender Recommendations?

2014-04-09 Thread Deacon Patrick
Cody at Woody's Fenders is going to lengthen some chop chort fenders, add 
stays. That way I'll be able to not worry about clearances near as much and 
can set the fender with greater clearance for debris to clear out. We'll 
see how it goes!

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] WTB/WTT: Size 4, old style (= black) Zefal HpX

2014-04-09 Thread Patrick Moore
For a 57 c-c tt or 57 or 58 c-c st. Good condition, please.

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[RBW] Re: 26 Tire Suggestions?

2014-04-09 Thread dougP
The Big Ben's that Rivendell sells get good reviews here for both on  off 
road.  Haven't tried them myself.  I have a pair of 2 Schwalbe Marathon 
Supremes that I ran on my old MTB for a while before putting knobs back on 
it.  They are more of a touring tire but I've ridden the off-road, both on 
the MTB and my Atlantis.  I'm not an aggressive off-roader.  Let me know if 
the Supremes are of interest to you.

dougP

On Tuesday, April 8, 2014 10:21:22 PM UTC-7, Michael Ullmer wrote:

 Hi all, I just acquired a Koga Miyata Valley Runner frame that I've got to 
 outfit with some new wheels and tires. I haven't been in the world of 26 
 wheels or tires for quite a few years and need some suggestions on tires. 
 The frame can fit 2 tires comfortably with fenders. 2.15 would be the 
 largest with fenders but I would like to stick with 2. I'm looking for 
 smooth tires with no knobs. Suggestions anyone? Additionally, does anyone 
 have any tires lying around they need to get off their hands? Thanks! I'll 
 post a picture of the build when I'm all done with it. A few of you have 
 contributed items to this build in the past few days (Nitto R-15, Marks 
 Rack, Platrack, Slickersack, Saddlebag Grip)., thank you all so much! 
 Cheers!

 Mike U
 Seattle


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[RBW] Re: Racks! (WTB?)

2014-04-09 Thread dougP
Matthew:

I've used the Nitto big back rack (the older one, not the current one with 
the 2nd set of bars), another Nitto (forget the number) that does have the 
lower bars, and the Tubus Cosmo.  Also numerous cheap aluminum (c)racks as 
I climbed the learning curve.  Good quality steel racks are all similar in 
cost so it comes down to what features your friend needs for his specific 
loads.  Nitto  Tubus both have good mounting hardware and are simple to 
install.


If it's not too late, check out the Touring Store sale referenced elsewhere 
on this thread.  Wayne is a great guy with good information and excellent 
service.  I've gotten a few things from him over the years and if he has 
something on sale, it'll take a lot of searching to find a better price.  

dougP
On Tuesday, April 8, 2014 1:50:32 PM UTC-7, Mathew Greiner wrote:

 Questions about racks. Answers and offers to sell used good ones are both 
 useful responses.

 My friend's cheaper aluminum rack broke and he's looking to replace it 
 with something better. He commutes most days with a pair of Arkel panniers 
 and a suit in a suit bag (like a durable, zippered one that probably came 
 with one of his suits). So far he's had the bags on his rear rack with the 
 suit bag folded in half or thirds and draped over the top.

 The Nitto Big Rear Rack seems like a slam dunk, but I think he needs to 
 know there isn't an equally good option for a little less. How are people's 
 experiences with things like the Nitto R-15, The Nitto Campee*, Tubus 
 Cargo/Logo/Vega, Surly Nice Racks, etc? If anyone knows much about the Velo 
 Orange Rear Campeur, that's an option, too.

 I think a lighter rear rack just for the suit and front low riders for the 
 panniers might be a nice option, but that's as expensive or more, and the 
 tops of the panniers are no longer supporting the suit (they kind of extend 
 the deck of the rack as he uses it now). The Nitto Big Front Rack might 
 also be interesting, as his bike has a lower trail and reportedly rides 
 well with weight in the front.

 What other options might you all experience with to accommodate a similar 
 load?

 * Also please help me be less confused. There are Nitto MT Campees (for a 
 26 wheel?), Nitto Campees (R20?) that go for about $150, and then Nitto 
 Campees with low rider attachments for front or rear that go for $280. Will 
 the regular ones ($150) accommodate panniers? Why must they all have the 
 same name?


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[RBW] Re: Racks! (WTB?)

2014-04-09 Thread Bill Lindsay
Regarding Campee.  Campee is not a model name, but more of a product line 
or maybe just a branding adjective.  Milwaukee Bicycle, just as a 
for-instance, sells 8 racks that have the Campee sticker on them, and that 
doesn't include the Mini Front (32F) that Riv sells.  As another 
for-instance, Alexs Cycles (in Japan) has an entire product category titled 
Campee.  Under that category they have racks, decaleurs, fenders, 
panniers, backpacks, etc.  

Somebody asking to buy a Nitto Campee is about as specific as asking to 
buy Shimano SPD pedals.  

I'm sure that doesn't cut the confusion, but hopefully it explains 
partially why it's so confusing.  

On Tuesday, April 8, 2014 1:50:32 PM UTC-7, Mathew Greiner wrote:

 Questions about racks. Answers and offers to sell used good ones are both 
 useful responses.

 My friend's cheaper aluminum rack broke and he's looking to replace it 
 with something better. He commutes most days with a pair of Arkel panniers 
 and a suit in a suit bag (like a durable, zippered one that probably came 
 with one of his suits). So far he's had the bags on his rear rack with the 
 suit bag folded in half or thirds and draped over the top.

 The Nitto Big Rear Rack seems like a slam dunk, but I think he needs to 
 know there isn't an equally good option for a little less. How are people's 
 experiences with things like the Nitto R-15, The Nitto Campee*, Tubus 
 Cargo/Logo/Vega, Surly Nice Racks, etc? If anyone knows much about the Velo 
 Orange Rear Campeur, that's an option, too.

 I think a lighter rear rack just for the suit and front low riders for the 
 panniers might be a nice option, but that's as expensive or more, and the 
 tops of the panniers are no longer supporting the suit (they kind of extend 
 the deck of the rack as he uses it now). The Nitto Big Front Rack might 
 also be interesting, as his bike has a lower trail and reportedly rides 
 well with weight in the front.

 What other options might you all experience with to accommodate a similar 
 load?

 * Also please help me be less confused. There are Nitto MT Campees (for a 
 26 wheel?), Nitto Campees (R20?) that go for about $150, and then Nitto 
 Campees with low rider attachments for front or rear that go for $280. Will 
 the regular ones ($150) accommodate panniers? Why must they all have the 
 same name?


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[RBW] Re: Appaloosa Prototype on Blug?

2014-04-09 Thread blakcloud
Sorry to dredge an older thread but I thought I would share a photo that I 
took at the Bicycle Museum in Sakai City, Japan that I too last week. I had 
earlier commented on how it looked like an older 80's mountain bike and 
after seeing the bike below I am even more convinced. 

The bike in the photo is 1 of 10 original Breezer mountain bikes built. 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/87106495@N07/13749049105/in/photostream/

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[RBW] Re: Contemplating 1 x 9 drivetrain

2014-04-09 Thread ted
Patrick,

If you start getting particular about your gearing preferences, I think the 
whole issue becomes quite subjective and driven by personal preferences. 
Michael clearly likes his arrangements, which I certainly don't, and he 
specifically recommends against arrangements I use and particularly like. 
What you are going to like is, ... well I guess I haven't much of a 
clue. But as a counterpoint to Michael's take I will submit the following.
When I change rings, I want to it change my gear by more than a cog or two 
in the back would. For me changing rings is about moving back towards (or 
past) the center of the cassette after working towards one end (or avoiding 
going out to towards the end in the first place). Back in the 70s I rode 
44/52 rings with a 14-18 freewheel and liked it a lot. But now that many of 
us have moved from 5 cog freewheels to 9 cog cassettes, I think larger 
differences between chainrings make more sense and work better. When I used 
to race I really valued one tooth steps in back, but now days I am more 
relaxed about effort and two tooth steps in the middle cogs seems ok and 
the increased range back there seems worth the loss in resolution. If your 
cassette has steps of two teeth in your cruising gears and three or four 
teeth on the big end then that also argues for bigger steps in your 
chainrings than a cassette that has one and two tooth steps.
As is so often the case what you like is up to you, and you should ride 
what you like.
I hope you enjoy figuring out what works best for you and your preferences.

regards
Ted

On Wednesday, April 9, 2014 2:36:16 PM UTC-7, Michael Hechmer wrote:

 Deacon,  I'm sitting in an Inn after a hard drive across a chunk of Md., 
 all of Delaware, NJ, and up NY to Rhinebeck so my brain is too tired for a 
 full answer.  So here's the short version.

 All gearing combinations involve trade offs among 4 variables - hi/low 
 which you have identified; but also how big the jumps are between gears; 
 the ease of getting from one gear to the next; and where your favorite 
 gears are. 

 The wider the hi/low range the wider the steps between gears, but this can 
 be counteracted to some degree by going to a dbl and then a triple.  A wide 
 range cassette always yields large steps between gears, which I don't like. 
   I usually run a 12-27 or at most an 11-28.  Even with that, on our riding 
 in flat Virginia I only used 3 gears but two of them were too far apart.

 So the double will let you get a pretty wide range with smaller steps. 
  But with many doubles the next gear can be an awkward front shift and a 2 
 or 3 click rear shift leaving you between the gear you would really like. 
  A ring difference of 10 tends to yield the simplest shifting pattern - a 
 single click to the next gear.   14 tooth difference yields 2 clicks to the 
 next gear.  I tend to find the 12 difference leaving me between gears.  I 
 try to create sets with about 10% between gears  especially in the most 
 used middle.

 Finally, think about which gears you use the most and try to get a good 
 chain line and easy pattern between them.

 I rarely use a ratio of less than 1 to 1 and never more than 4-1.  For 
 example my Ram has a 44/30 and an 11/27 while the Saluki a 48/34/26 (24 for 
 big long climbs) with a 12-27.  The tandem, likes easy shifting, so 
 48/38/28 with a 12-27.  It feels very stressful to me to try to spin a 
 ratio much below 1-1 fast enough to keep a bike upright for a long time. 
  To each his own.

 Simplification is good, over simplification makes life more complicated 
 than it needs to be.

 Michael


 On Tuesday, April 8, 2014 9:45:03 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 I am contemplating whether to go 1 x 9 or 2 x 9 with my drive train. here 
 is the gear ration range comparison:

 In gain ratios:

 Current range (excluding my big ring, which I rarely use and will be 
 dropping):
 1.5 - 6

 1 x 9 (28 x 12-36)
 1.6 - 4.7

 2 x 9 (24/36 x 12-36)
 1.3 - 6

 I don’t really need lower than 1.5, and I am unsure how the drop to 4.7 
 from 6 translates to speed loss. On flat or gradual descents, I suspect I 
 would miss those upper gears. Can anyone provide their wisdom here?

 I am asking the question because I want to go as simple as is practical. 
 I’d love to go with the 36t on a 1x set up, but it would add significantly 
 to the number of hills i’m walking, especially when bikepacking. Perhaps 
 going with a 30 or 32t 1x set up is the way to go? I will no doubt get 
 stronger and the loss may not be a big deal with that. But then it’s better 
 to lose gears on the upper range and coast more, and enjoy the ride on the 
 climbs without killing myself.

 All wisdom deeply appreciated.

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 *www.MindYourHeadCoop.org http://www.MindYourHeadCoop.org*
 *www.OurHolyConception.org http://www.OurHolyConception.org*
  


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To 

[RBW] Re: Contemplating 1 x 9 drivetrain

2014-04-09 Thread Deacon Patrick
Exactly, Ted. The set-up you describe is precisely what I'm looking forward 
to moving toward. I'd go with even more difference in the front than 24/36 
except that I want to mostly ride the 36, only dropping into the granny if 
essential, ideally only when leaded. Since I'm happy with the top end of 36 
now, I see no reason to go up and lose personal preference functionality (I 
believe that is the technical term for what we're talking about. Grin.).

With abandon,
Patrick

On Wednesday, April 9, 2014 7:20:59 PM UTC-6, ted wrote:

 Patrick,

 If you start getting particular about your gearing preferences, I think 
 the whole issue becomes quite subjective and driven by personal 
 preferences. Michael clearly likes his arrangements, which I certainly 
 don't, and he specifically recommends against arrangements I use and 
 particularly like. What you are going to like is, ... well I guess I 
 haven't much of a clue. But as a counterpoint to Michael's take I will 
 submit the following.
 When I change rings, I want to it change my gear by more than a cog or two 
 in the back would. For me changing rings is about moving back towards (or 
 past) the center of the cassette after working towards one end (or avoiding 
 going out to towards the end in the first place). Back in the 70s I rode 
 44/52 rings with a 14-18 freewheel and liked it a lot. But now that many of 
 us have moved from 5 cog freewheels to 9 cog cassettes, I think larger 
 differences between chainrings make more sense and work better. When I used 
 to race I really valued one tooth steps in back, but now days I am more 
 relaxed about effort and two tooth steps in the middle cogs seems ok and 
 the increased range back there seems worth the loss in resolution. If your 
 cassette has steps of two teeth in your cruising gears and three or four 
 teeth on the big end then that also argues for bigger steps in your 
 chainrings than a cassette that has one and two tooth steps.
 As is so often the case what you like is up to you, and you should ride 
 what you like.
 I hope you enjoy figuring out what works best for you and your preferences.

 regards
 Ted

 On Wednesday, April 9, 2014 2:36:16 PM UTC-7, Michael Hechmer wrote:

 Deacon,  I'm sitting in an Inn after a hard drive across a chunk of Md., 
 all of Delaware, NJ, and up NY to Rhinebeck so my brain is too tired for a 
 full answer.  So here's the short version.

 All gearing combinations involve trade offs among 4 variables - hi/low 
 which you have identified; but also how big the jumps are between gears; 
 the ease of getting from one gear to the next; and where your favorite 
 gears are. 

 The wider the hi/low range the wider the steps between gears, but this 
 can be counteracted to some degree by going to a dbl and then a triple.  A 
 wide range cassette always yields large steps between gears, which I don't 
 like.   I usually run a 12-27 or at most an 11-28.  Even with that, on our 
 riding in flat Virginia I only used 3 gears but two of them were too far 
 apart.

 So the double will let you get a pretty wide range with smaller steps. 
  But with many doubles the next gear can be an awkward front shift and a 2 
 or 3 click rear shift leaving you between the gear you would really like. 
  A ring difference of 10 tends to yield the simplest shifting pattern - a 
 single click to the next gear.   14 tooth difference yields 2 clicks to the 
 next gear.  I tend to find the 12 difference leaving me between gears.  I 
 try to create sets with about 10% between gears  especially in the most 
 used middle.

 Finally, think about which gears you use the most and try to get a good 
 chain line and easy pattern between them.

 I rarely use a ratio of less than 1 to 1 and never more than 4-1.  For 
 example my Ram has a 44/30 and an 11/27 while the Saluki a 48/34/26 (24 for 
 big long climbs) with a 12-27.  The tandem, likes easy shifting, so 
 48/38/28 with a 12-27.  It feels very stressful to me to try to spin a 
 ratio much below 1-1 fast enough to keep a bike upright for a long time. 
  To each his own.

 Simplification is good, over simplification makes life more complicated 
 than it needs to be.

 Michael


 On Tuesday, April 8, 2014 9:45:03 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 I am contemplating whether to go 1 x 9 or 2 x 9 with my drive train. 
 here is the gear ration range comparison:

 In gain ratios:

 Current range (excluding my big ring, which I rarely use and will be 
 dropping):
 1.5 - 6

 1 x 9 (28 x 12-36)
 1.6 - 4.7

 2 x 9 (24/36 x 12-36)
 1.3 - 6

 I don’t really need lower than 1.5, and I am unsure how the drop to 4.7 
 from 6 translates to speed loss. On flat or gradual descents, I suspect I 
 would miss those upper gears. Can anyone provide their wisdom here?

 I am asking the question because I want to go as simple as is practical. 
 I’d love to go with the 36t on a 1x set up, but it would add significantly 
 to the number of hills i’m walking, especially when bikepacking. 

Re: [RBW] Re: Contemplating 1 x 9 drivetrain

2014-04-09 Thread cyclotourist
Sounds exactly like something I would expect coming from his shop!

Cheers,
David

it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal





On Wed, Apr 9, 2014 at 11:27 AM, Matthew J matthewj...@gmail.com wrote:

 I really like 9 speed for the 36T cassette though. Best bike component to
 come out in the last decade or so.

 Appears he does no longer, but Jeff Jones for a time modified the 9 into a
 6 speed cassette with a 36 (or is it 38?  Will have to check) low gear.
  The modified cassette works with a single speed hub allowing for less dish
 on the wheel.


 On Wednesday, April 9, 2014 8:26:55 AM UTC-5, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

 Define shifting ease? There's really no difference between 8 or 9 in
 amount of effort to shift??? I really like 9 speed for the 36T cassette
 though. Best bike component to come out in the last decade or so.

 Cheers,
 David

 it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal





 On Wed, Apr 9, 2014 at 3:02 AM, Deacon Patrick lamon...@mac.com wrote:

 Another great point to consider, as I'm currently using an 8 speed
 cassette. How much drop off in shifting ease have you experienced with your
 9x2 in the rear vs. an 8, David?

 With abandon,
 Patrick


 On Tuesday, April 8, 2014 9:03:38 PM UTC-6, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

 Larry, eight speed is nice as well, as they still use a regular chain.

 Cheers,
 David

 it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal





 On Tue, Apr 8, 2014 at 8:02 PM, LF fie...@gmail.com wrote:

  Patrick my friend,
 Not exactly to the point, but I think 7-speed rear clusters are at the
 pinacle of bike gear technology. They are more forgiving when shifting,
 last longer, have wider chains. Simple and practical! A nice wide range 
 2X7
  Roll on!
 Best,
 Larry

 On Tuesday, April 8, 2014 9:45:03 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 I am contemplating whether to go 1 x 9 or 2 x 9 with my drive train.
 here is the gear ration range comparison:

 In gain ratios:

 Current range (excluding my big ring, which I rarely use and will be
 dropping):
 1.5 - 6

 1 x 9 (28 x 12-36)
 1.6 - 4.7

 2 x 9 (24/36 x 12-36)
 1.3 - 6

 I don't really need lower than 1.5, and I am unsure how the drop to
 4.7 from 6 translates to speed loss. On flat or gradual descents, I 
 suspect
 I would miss those upper gears. Can anyone provide their wisdom here?

 I am asking the question because I want to go as simple as is
 practical. I'd love to go with the 36t on a 1x set up, but it would add
 significantly to the number of hills i'm walking, especially when
 bikepacking. Perhaps going with a 30 or 32t 1x set up is the way to go? I
 will no doubt get stronger and the loss may not be a big deal with that.
 But then it's better to lose gears on the upper range and coast more, and
 enjoy the ride on the climbs without killing myself.

 All wisdom deeply appreciated.

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 *www.MindYourHeadCoop.org http://www.MindYourHeadCoop.org*
 *www.OurHolyConception.org http://www.OurHolyConception.org*

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[RBW] Re: Used (Vince's) 60cm Betty Foy at Rivbike

2014-04-09 Thread Tom Goodmann
The Betty and the 59 San Marcos didn't last long!  --Tom (Miami)

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[RBW] FS: Nitto Mini Front Rack 32F

2014-04-09 Thread Zack
This one: http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/r2.htm

Used but never abused.  

$95 shipped.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Sam Hillborne Frame Fitment Update

2014-04-09 Thread Brian Campbell
I am 190 and running my Barlow Pass tires at 65 rear and 60 front. I may 
try an go a bit lower to see if things get better (they areally nice as 
is). It is all pretty subjective when it comes to preference. Start 
somewhere, keep track and experiment. Road surface, conditioning, length of 
ride, mood, amount of sleep, weather will all play a role/ :0

On Monday, April 7, 2014 10:18:07 PM UTC-4, ted wrote:

 In my last exchange with Jan he asserted rolling resistance was basically 
 i dependent of tire pressure, baring riding flat tires and very high 
 pressures (or maybe it was ultra high). I don't think he mentioned 15% drop.

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[RBW] Re: Riv-ish Shop in Chicago?

2014-04-09 Thread Conway Bennett
Go to Turin.  It used to be a co-op but now operated by Lee who started Lake 
shoes.  Lore has it that back when it was still a co-op Mark Nobilette and 
Bruce Gordon learned their trade there.  They usually have stuff nobody else 
does and there's always something cool in the stand.  The new Ancien shop 
usually has a couple of a couple of older Rivs inside; not for sale though.  
They belong to one of the shops owners who was good enough to let me poke 
around before they were opened.

- Captain Conway 

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Nitto Big Front Rack

2014-04-09 Thread Zack
found one, thanks!

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[RBW] 26 Tire Suggestions?

2014-04-09 Thread stonehog
Compass 2. Great tires that are as fast for me as jack B's or Hetres.  And 
they look great on a Miyata!
https://flic.kr/p/jdSiwd

Brian Hanson
Seattle, WA

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[RBW] Re: FS: Nitto Mini Front Rack 32F

2014-04-09 Thread Zack
sold!

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[RBW] WTB: Rivendell Miesha's Cork Grips (Bar-end Version) Pletscher Twin-Legger Kickstand

2014-04-09 Thread Crudo
Hi I am looking for these two items, especially the grips that are 
currently out of stock at Riv. Please drop me a line! I am located in San 
Francisco, CA.

Thanks,
Robin

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[RBW] FS: QuickBeam Wheelset

2014-04-09 Thread Thomas McCause
Wheelset from my (newish to me) QuickBeam is sitting unused...bearings are 
super smooth

These are the 120/100 Suzue hubs (freewheel on both sides)...all silver 
in GREAT shape

how does $250 plus shipping sound?

thanks!

thomas in Parker, CO

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