You should see about 350-500 milliwatts going to the pa deck and the
bias/control line must be connected properly to the station frame. Many
times I see these stations for sale at hamfests with the jumper wire
allowing the pa to run only full-tilt-boogey, which is why they crash
and burn so often
Try using a short piece of 75 ohm feedline and watch the smoke come from
the caps over the finals - your existing phase detector won't work well
off the laboratory test bench. Most of the caps need to be increased
slightly and the two blocks which are bandpass filters will need to be
changed or
Major remodeling forces the computer to the closet, hope to return just
after field day. For those who like the glow in the dark stuff - may the
force be with you, I just heard a name for the glowing vavles,
vacu-fets, I know you guys will have fun with this in my absense.
Look for field day call
You still have to do the divide by how many arms to the power divider
cabling, as someone mentioned it weakens the overall rx department,
however I have tryed this with just 3 3 element beams using the tower as
the reflector and it seems to work pretty good, when the weather is a
sure thing we are
I don't know why you would have trouble, in Cleveburg, Ohio there are 2
or 3 100 watt and one 300 watt 2 mtr machine perched on hospitals just
running fine day and nite. One has a glass antenna cause I am borrowing
the 224, but when this appears I will likely get a phone message to
return the
Only if you can find the ones built in bc, as in before cartoons.
Speaking of before cartoons, the master eleven is half of a mastr22
right?
Chuck Kelsey wrote:
Now, that's a Syntor 10 (ten) isn't it?
Chuck
WB2EDV
- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To:
Trade the antenna for a shielded dummy load, or possibly 1000 feet of
rg400 to attenuate the signal down.
Ken Arck wrote:
At 09:15 PM 5/21/2004 -0500, you wrote:
Would there be any advantage to putting the radio in an RF box for
shielding?
---The short answer? Only if you put the
I guess it depends on the amount of filtering you can have for each of
the frequencies you want to use, and the cable switching needed to use
the cavities for that freq. Imagine a coax switch with a port for every
frequency you want to activate, now duplicate that so that you can
transmit and
They will go without anything, I have the 38mhz 4set and they worked
good on a tube transmitter but you will probably need 6 to go with
transistor pa deck. Adding notch stubs will help but if you have only 4
you will have a lot of desense with silicon finals, try to keep your
bottle finals going.
This is only a quickie controller, no duplexing or filtering of the rf,
if you want to test the livelyhood of a maxtrac operating continuous
duty this would be one way to try it. Before you purchase anything else
a good way to test the likelyhood of failure is use a dummy load and
keep the
They are relocating to the city of Atlantis, under the water to cool
those funny circuits so the smoke won't leak out on the test bench - we
are all awaiting the new phone number and zip code as the location known
to most is extinct. Rumor has is they were the pioneers of broadband but
sold out to
I am suprised 800 will show passing thru in highband cavities, I would
think moving down one rack is the smartest thing to try, as you noted it
will be a low cost trial.
Richard Sharp, KQ4KX wrote:
Hi gang,
Our club was allowed space (no cost) on top of a 400' tower using an
existing 7/8
Why mount antennas if you can't put cable on them, wait till the time is
correct. As far as duplexing goes, you will need them tuned to operate
on your freqs. and offer enough isolation to prevent the tx from
blocking the rx, this usually is 100-120db depending on the noise levels
present in your
an isolator would be prudent to prevent a high band triplen
harmonic from making it's way to the uhf rx.
Virden Clark Beckman wrote:
Why mount antennas if you can't put cable on them, wait till the time is
correct. As far as duplexing goes, you will need them tuned to operate
on your freqs. and offer
, Virden Clark Beckman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
This is the reason I suggest just adding a helical to the front end of
the regency, they really don't have evidence of a grat overlap or
overload unless a user has a really wide signal which sounds like it may
be the case.
Looks like you didn't read my
First - does it work on the freqs it came with? cg=channel guard,
nb=noise blanker, if it a m-pro instead of mastr2 it will have peach
colored castings where the xtals mount and there will be 2 swing out
trays, one is the tx on top - the larger one, remove the driver tube
before trying to get the
This is the reason I suggest just adding a helical to the front end of
the regency, they really don't have evidence of a grat overlap or
overload unless a user has a really wide signal which sounds like it may
be the case. In the beginning I was under the assumption it was the
output making spurs
Try using the math on the IF of your rx to see what is making them mix
on your freq, how long have the 2 machines been co-existing on-the-air?
If it were one or 2 users you would know it rather than the entire time
the machine is active, can you see how clean the signal is from that
machine, I
-
From: Virden Clark Beckman [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 27, 2004 2:26 PM
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Help on Interference
Try using the math on the IF of your rx to see what is making them mix
on your freq, how long have the 2 machines been
The schedule rating of pipe is not conduit perse' as conduit does not
undergo pressure testing but it does get zinc plating, that has little
to do with your question which was aimed more at strength. I have been
serviceing electrical equipment over 20 years and have never heard of
schedule 80
The mill length for pipe is 21' and both ends threaded, it arrives with
a coupling on the forward end to protect the threads from transit
damage.
Daron J. Wilson wrote:
Schedule 80 2 steel will do just fine.
What is the Longest one piece it is sold in ? And is it Stronger than
Top
Are you thinking of alignment, frequency adjustment or just plain
squelch?
Maire Company wrote:
does any one know if there are any adjustments on the receive of a
MTR-2000 VHF repeater, I have poor receive on the repeater but killer
transmit.
--
73...Clark Beckman N8PZD
Yahoo!
They smoke a few out of every hundred built and rate them accordingly.
dy3lmk143_13mhz wrote:
Transmitter and amplifier manufacturers usually specifies a duty
cycle (i.e. 50W 100% duty cycle) on their product. then how do you
prove what they specified is correct?
--
73...Clark Beckman
The answer lies along the diagonal lines;
http://www.repeater-builder.com/pix/vertsep.jpg and
http://www.repeater-builder.com/pix/horizsep.jpg - using the horizontal
method you will need so much bandwidth you will be into the next radio
band, like 222 and 440 or 146 and 222. This is just one of
Use a flip-flop circuit. But If you have any chance for innermod you
will experience troubles galore, that is why dtmf sequences are used
rather than random pl signals.
Rich wrote:
Design help needed.
I'd like to take a Selectone ST138 to a maxtrac receiver in a
Desktrac.
I want it to
I am interested also, I have 3 of these converted to 920 and was going
to dig thru stuff at dayton - I will go anyway but this will give me
more time to harass a wider area of the fly market.
Matt Krick wrote:
YES! That is exactly what I am trying to do, please send away!
--
2 continuos duty uhf radios, 2 feedline runs, 2 beam style antennas, 2
power supplies, I think I would try setting the output power at 5-7
watts first and a open radio port on each end that can be configured to
operate as you would desire, probably 2 ctcss detectors so either one
knows when the
For what band? I have a UHF tuned on 444.80/449.80 I would let out for
75 bux. It is a 4 bay sinclair that was doing 50 watts on a test machine
3 years ago.
Mike wrote:
I am looking for a mobile duplexer so I can maek a portable repeater. I have
looked on the net and I cant seem to find one.
Eric, you should consider this expense as that of a soldering and
schematic flow charting class - unfortunately you didn't get a passing
grade even though the instructor took time for some special attention to
help you with details. You will likely be more apt to purchase a
functioning unit or the
It would be smart to run a awg4 solid/bare copper wire to the top from a
wide spread grounding rod array and use this with split bolts along the
way for your antenna/s for grounding, the flange or slip joints don't
really do well after 5-8 years of oxidation and mechanical coating/paint
decay. You
Exothermic is a connection not soldered, could be crimp tubes or cad
welded as used on the tops of the ground rods. It is dangerous to cad
weld up in the air - the discharge could start roofing on fire or cause
other cables and site personel trouble, I always pack around the holes
with thumb gum
Uh, this is really good, suprisingly they don't get into much detail
about wavelengths and frequency, except some sort of telepathic
nonsense. I wonder if this is the second generation of those little
pills you could drop into your gasoline tank in the 80's and suddenly
climb mountains with the
Oh, don't do this - the coors brewery will have to work overtime during
the summer months when families want to vacation with the kids out of
school. I think someones eyes have swelled shut already, is the micor a
pm or fm on both ends?
--
73...Clark Beckman N8PZD
Yahoo! Groups Links
*
marine applications
apply , and yes every thing is verified with swr meters , both at the
antenna and at the back of the transmitter
- Original Message -
From: Virden Clark Beckman [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2004 10:31 PM
I think the bad hair day unit that discharges the corona is gonna be the
answer, I have built a couple and am waiting for some nice weather to
install on the top antenna where our club stuff is located.
Frank or Barb wrote:
The problem we have in SW PA on 2mtrs, is rain and snow static.
If you want to deter innermod you will need to use something like rg-142
which is double shielded, why bother with only having a good shield at
the connector area when the remaining cable will leak in rf like a panty
hose fire nozzle?
David Schornak wrote:
thanks all for the info i Have found
Can you advise on the wind shear load and if the manufacturer will rate
it at 120 MPH so it could be used on a commercial site within 5 miles of
navigable water? Do you use an swr meter on your equipment to analyze
reflected power, how broad is the bandwidth and what stability is the
impedance at
This cable is always handy for other jumpers, get several feet in case
you want to add a filter or pre-amp, it works good on wattmeter jumpers
also.
David Schornak wrote:
thanks that is why I was asking I figured that everyone here would know the
answer and give me good suggestions so I will
Don, tell them you want a charlton heston fog lamp relay, if it is a
bosch unit it will indicate 40A melted into the plastic and will work
fine except the micor uses different voltage levels, 9.6 and 12 - there
was a discussion about this last autumn comparing the moto family to
some other that
Oh, then you want a thermal reset breaker which NAPA stores sell for
universal use, costs around ten bux, I put one in for my battery
isolator in my travel van. If you are far away from NAPA try a camping
store that sells generator equipment.
Don wrote:
I should of Worded that differently,
I have a u16, to get to program hold the f key on the side and press
1,5,9,7,5,3 then turn off and on to go back to run the radio.
Joey Diaz wrote:
Hi,
I have an old ICOM IC-H16T. I have not used this unit for a long time. I
would like to ask for assistance regarding the access code for
Well, I am thinking that using an op-amp circuit might help you out on
the audio line out with a .3-.5 blocking cap in series with a 50k pot.
Op-amps demand very little current to activate, and can be reliable in
rf fields by sprinkling some 0.1 tantalum caps around where there is dc
bus voltages
You will probably want to add about 1/2 inch to each end of each loop,
this will be tedious but a short time ago on the reflector someone
posted pictures of drilling thru the end of the loop and adding a bolt
to effectively increase the size of the loop, it was a high band model
but the same idea
For the bux the hustler g-6 family has been doing pretty well, just make
sure to sweep it before you mount it as there have been some really
crazy uhf splits mixed up lately.
Donnie Q wrote:
I am putting a 220 machine on the air in Michigan, all ready have
the pair. but my question is does
I doubt if you would get repeater council approval to link at that power
level, most linking is done 15-20 miles with 3-5 watts and then someone
might turn it up to 10 watts to overcome foliage and insure a reliable
path in horrible weather.
dy3lmk143_13mhz wrote:
I've never had experience on
If you are looking for 6 mtr cavities, I have a set in my barn that a
club spent 800 bux on, 4 pcs. db 4032 - located just west of Cleveland,
Ohio - they will fit into a caravan or comparable mini-van.
Neal Newman wrote:
Hey Alex Go Away
looking for some 6 meter duplexers For
Tune them each seperatly and then replace the cables with the correct
electrical length using the velocity factor math.
Davies, Doug A FOR:EX wrote:
I have been having a heck of a time getting my Q202G to tune to 146.xxx. It
was originally set up for 163.xxx and, of course, the plunger rods
You need to get a licensed radio tech in there to do the co-ordination
but the basic can it be linked, yes but it could easily cost 25-38k to
erect the towers and all the stuff needed.
Matt Bergum wrote:
Hello,
I just Joined the group, but don't plan to stay a member (since I am
not a HAM
If what you are trying to get is a stronger signal from a weaker one,
use an open npn collector as the switch - in order for it to trigger
with reliability you do need for the signal to go above 3 and below 2
volts for this to occur - it takes the strain off the radio electronics
and you can also
They or somethin very close made the uniden regency bearcat scanner
stuff, maybe cb - you are talking those 11 meter am boxes right?
Neil McKie wrote:
Doesn't / didn't regency make scanners and CB's?
--
73...Clark Beckman N8PZD
Yahoo! Groups Links
* To visit your group on the web,
Doug, your concerns about the line voltage is a valid one however the
ferro-resonant type supplies can generally overcome 10-15 percent
fluctuation in line voltage. I like your grounding questions and using a
split bolt to add your 6awg stranded wire to the existing ground bus is
going to be as
Can you send some specs for those solid state tubes?
Mathew Quaife wrote:
This one has the three small transistorized finals on the right back side.
As far as numbers on the unit, don't find anything that meets the model
numbers that's been mentioned. Might be easier to just locate one of
they work. I wanna stack two 5/8 wave elements vertically
using collinear model or stack array. Thank you.
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Virden Clark Beckman
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
What angle of radiation are you measuring gain in? What method of
coupling are you using between
What angle of radiation are you measuring gain in? What method of
coupling are you using between the radiating elements?
samsoncr wrote:
Hi. I wanna make an antenna stacking two 5/8 elements, it's for my
GMRS radio. Which one will have more gain, 40,5 cm over 40,5 cm
element with 2 cm of
Make sure the ceramic plate on front and the insulating spacer in the
back are in good condition and gooped up with heat transfer compound, if
either part is faulty the voltage goes down to zero and hops up and down
when you wiggle the frame and or the cover.
Terry wrote:
Hey folks,
I
Get onto an existing tower as a co-located user, you will be meeting a
lot of people to explain the volunteer support ham radio gives existing
emergency services when they are overloaded - cell phones don't go fast
enough - electrical outage in one area puts an end to communications
between the
I would imagine you might want to bid on 4 that I have belongs to a
radio club in northern Ohio - they paid 800 bux and they worked good
until we split the site with the solid state pa deck. There is info on
adding a pass notch out of cable to the inside somewhere on the web, I
wanted to try this
There is a tube store in Tempe Arizona that has fair prices on new old
stock tubes, I think it is called radio restoration or something close -
before you chase good money for new why not buy another mobile radio at
a swap-n-shop? Or dig into a 2way shop's castaway pile to see what you
can
Tedd Doda wrote:
An oscilloscope is your best friend for tracking logic
and audio levels.
Snip -- In many cases you can use a volt meter to observe the .2 ac in
the audio stream to the controller rxa in this case taken from tb502-2.
But again be careful when you grab that cas line from
This is a good example, don't do what you just thought about doing - you
will ruin the rx radio set. Before you transmit into the cavity filter
be sure it has some isolation to the rx port, this is a must... Now how
can you test this? Try a little extra isolation - don't connect direct,
huh? what
GE M-pro pin out on the top of the power supply there are 2 terminal
strips tb501 and tb 502, tb502-2=rxa, tb502-10=ptt/lo, tb502-12=txa,
tb502-16=cas/hi - the cas is next to 110vac so be really smart and pull
the plug from the wall before you tinker with that one.
Russell Filling wrote:
ok
This is typically done to protect the seller from someone not familiar
with the equipment from shooting both in the foot from one location,
shoot yourself in the foot alone. This is why most electronic equipment
is sold as is, however if you run into trouble Paul is a very helpful
guy and can
Hey Chuck, have they started a j-pole antenna group yet? That would be a
fascinating one to watch, if you include 432 I will join.
Chuck Kelsey wrote:
I guess that the Repeater Builder list was so overwhelmed with Mitrek stuff
that it was inevitable that another list would be needed.
I'm
I have one of the micors like you are using, same gas-fet, dci 4 bay
filter and duplexor also. The gas-fet is the single biggest item of
gain, and would mention if you have easy access try changing just that
to a bi-polar and do only one thing at a time because without being
there it is hard to
Roger, is this the replacement for the ICC AM-6154 and 6155 series
equipment? I have one of each and besides a couple early smokes tests
they work well in the 6-700 watt range after mods.
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
the CM-51 is a UHF (225-400 MHz)LPA designed to boost AM signals from 10
watts
I geuss we couldn't wait till the first day in April for that news?
Jim B. wrote:
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Hi Jim,
For repeater duty, it MUST be turned down or it will burn up.
And conversely, it mustn't be turned up or it will burn down.
73,
Bob
oh my...|cP
--
Jim
That will be a rare catch - the micor ones are 2 helical and bi-polar,
also scarce.
Adam T. Cately wrote:
Looking for a Mastr II UHS amp for VHF - have receiver boards, but
would take another with the amp installed for the right price. Please
respond to:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
or
Look for the white wire to cycle with the correct tone, this is rx pl
detect - you didn't say if the unit will rx with any tone but you didn't
say the rx has died so that sounds like the symptom. If you have the
green wire going to vol/squ hi and the org, blk and violet held low and
the white wire
Stephen, the acc controller and link are the only ham radio type
controllers that can process analog data. You would have to make an
interface with a basic stamp or some from of digital-analog convertor to
interact between the scom and the radio itself.
kg4pto wrote:
I have a general question.
Change the programming to your desired timing sequence, what is an old
repeater? In many ham radio conversions the controller is not made by
the radio company, so you will have to examine the board for a name if
you didn't get all the info when you aquired the unit. There are still
some
Conducting boom is ok but not spreaders, if you are a purist you will
find feedpoint impedance ranging from 75 to 300 ohms - use some 1/2
electrical wave length of inversion coax to return to 52 ohm for your
transmitter to enjoy.
Sandeep wrote:
Hi
this is off topic
I am planning a 2M
The zmatcher matches the reactive impedance to the transmitter, not the
resistive load - any cable changes or anything will affect this
reactance.
Ralph Mowery wrote:
Couldn't agree with you more. The important point is that you can't
insert
an SWR meter or wattmeter in the line to make
For commercial tower installation watch those wind load numbers, most
towers want a 90-100+ wind load, 120+ within 5 miles of navigable water.
As far as efficiency goes there is no such thing as a multi-band
antenna, the ham patterns are generally so high on the horizon that you
would need a good
I don't think you will get the capacitance and base loading coil to work
on 222 band from 154, that is a large step - I think hustler has a g6 or
g7 on 222.
Richard Velez wrote:
I have a VHF cellwave which has a faded label. I cant tell what model it is.
However the freq stamp was still
What band are you looking for?
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Hi all
I forgot in my earlier post Wanted the chassis I was looking for
is a Micor PA Chassis.
Thanks
Mike
--
73...Clark Beckman N8PZD
Yahoo! Groups Links
To visit your group on the web, go to:
Well you have an idea how it works but I don't think you realize the
spacing needed is about 50-60 feet from one antenna to the other for
uhf, for vhf you would need about double the distance. Towers work well
at keeping everything upright, trying this idea in portable sounds more
like something
I don't have intimite uhf micor experience however it sounds like the
exciter is making some noise if your walky can hear it, I do know on the
mastr family if you change the length of the jumper to the pa you will
have to retune the last 2 caps as it makes just enought to get the pa
going and
Use a circuit looking at the output of the primary - you will need a
radio to do this, it having sensed the primary on-line will inhibit the
ptt engagement of the secondary even though both rx are working fine.
nfd440 wrote:
We have a MTR 2000 Primary Repeater at one location. and we are
Take a telephone butt set to examine the output, and some resistors. If
these are simulcasting it would seem there is something affecting the
ptt parallel circuit - take 2 or 3 some 1n4001 to act as isolator so
that one ptt does not backfeed into the other. I think I would use a
pair of output
:04:26 -0500, Virden Clark Beckman wrote:
Take a telephone butt set to examine the output, and some resistors. If
these are simulcasting it would seem there is something affecting the
ptt parallel circuit - take 2 or 3 some 1n4001 to act as isolator so
that one ptt does not backfeed
Mechanical fatigue; where the elements are formed this outer region is
the thinnest as it is stretched the most in the forming process. Had
this hole been drilled along the side it may have been a better choice
as the thickness would be almost the same as the parent straight tubing
however after
What is the swr and can you lower the output power to about 2/3 rated
power to reudce heating? You mention no controller, how does it ID with
10 minute intervals?
kf4vgx wrote:
This Repeater was an old kit that was put together last year by a Ham
friend and myself works great !
But when
The red stuff is called glastic in the power distribution world,
fiberglass impregnated plastic - it has a very nice dielectric value and
is installed in most power distribution transformers around the
connection lugs. I see it in 1/4 flat format, I imagine it must be
available in other forms like
If you are looking for a name it was folded monopole 20 some years ago,
no gain but wide banded and durable in high winds - most coast guard
stations use these.
Mike Perryman wrote:
Looks like a DB-201 that is missing the radial kit... see attached PDF and
tell me if you agree..
mike
I have 3 of them in my attic that I use on simplex, with the vhf contest
coming I will bring them down and forward digital photos to the web site
for posting.
There has got to be plans still around for them, I made mine about 12 or
14 years ago.
--
73...Clark Beckman N8PZD
Yahoo! Groups
Randy, I don't have any experience with those cavities however if they
are that close I think you will be able to get them moved into the ham
band with little or no trouble. Have you tried having someone 2 or 3
miles away transmit on the repeater piar while you moved any of the
adjustments to
Likely more than that, I used to get my cordless out about 2-3 miles
with a 5 element beam aimed down the interstate, it worked up to the
first hill which was a large overpass, I was on a 1/4 wave mag mount for
6 mtrs with the handset.
Don wrote:
330 watt, low band 42-54MHz
I think I could
The reciever is pretty good, but from everything we have found here the
transmitter will work best in the trunk of a tucker torpedo - otherwise
using it as portable ballast from an amphibious car would be the best
way to use it. Both GE and Motorola made a repair kit for the spectrum
radio family,
I think you should send it to Kevin so he can hit it with a hammer, when
he is done I will come over and melt some of it with a blowtorch while
he takes the pictures, I am sure someone will step in with a
hammerdrill. Maybe bring it to dayton and charge 1 buck a hit in the
flea market area, you
Try adding a pull-down resistor to the cas line about 10k would do to be
certain the controller is not floating, you may want to try this on the
correct ctcss input switch also to prevent bouncing.
Rick - VA3RZS/Charlotte - VA3CMR wrote:
Ok Guys and Gals
I have a little problem here
I am
It will be hard to do and maintain the system in battery working order
while you work on it, the easiest way to clean the terminals is soak in
baking soda/water solution - you may have to swirl them around in a kids
bucket of the mixture to activate the soda enhancing the cleaning into
the
You will need about 4 more 100 foot towers to get the seperation to
aquire 100db isolation - I use 8 of these antennas on a split site
repeater, the null changes depending on other hardware on the tower -
the pattern comes from each side 25 percent and 50 percent from the
front - keep each antenna
Those are deviation and ctcss levels, they won't help a 'bassy' sounding
repeater. What you need to do is follow the audio lines in and out to
see what components and where the de-emphasis was made, compare the
values you have to the repeater builder web site audio recomendations to
get the level
I thought it was 2500 watts, I guess I will have to scale down my
vhf/uhf contesting amplifier, maybe those 8877s will last a long time
now.
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Snip I can transmit with 1500 watts
out, legally. We were both polite to each other - never in a pushing
match of any kind. And
A hamfest or the electronic style in the comfort of your armchair -
Ebay?
Mike wrote:
I am looking for instuctions and details on which radios that I could
tie together use a controller for a UHF repeater? (Prefer kenwoods)
Maybe some 805 or 809? Also, I would like to know the value of the
It requires the crimping tool which now most everyone has, and be
careful folding tight corners as when the aluminum foil tears open you
are left with plain old coax. For this reason I use only double shielded
cabling on my repeater projects, when something slips out of place and
strains that
If you are looking at a station pa deck and the output filter is on your
right side - or a mobile and the fins are away from you, look to your
left near the horizontal centerline and into the left 1/3 section - you
should see a potentiometer on the pc board - this is the driver control
- mostly
I don't have build specs for that particular antenna on hand however the
shaking and producing noise on the ground doesn't sound good, could it
be the hardline connector making intermittent to the mast? Try
insulating the mast wrapping positions with scotch electrical rubber
tape covered with
Search ARRL technical articles - N8AKS recently wrote up a great circuit
- be sure to use aluminum window screen as it is for a 12 VDC fan.
drwoolweaver wrote:
I need a simple circuit for a repeater PA fan controller with delay
time out. I did a search, but found nothing. Thanks de David
The nhrc remote board is probably the easiest way to add options to an
existing controller machine - money wise the nhrc-2 would be a more cost
effective route. Have you tried researching the controller data sheets
for some info on disabling the transmit?
kg4yti wrote:
Looking for Good Ways
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