The BMW UUC Digest Volume 3 : Issue 58 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: shameless ebay plug How to Remove Wires from Electrical Connectors? Re: How to Remove Wires from Electrical Connectors? Re: How to Remove Wires from Electrical Connectors? Re: How to Remove Wires from Electrical Connectors? C/D was: How to Remove Wires ...? Re: C/D was: How to Remove Wires ...? Key safe? Re: Key safe? Re: <E36> Thermostat <WTB> radio <E36> heater hoses Re: <E36> heater hoses Radiator stop leak
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 05 Feb 2006 18:38:55 -0500 From: neil <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC Digest <[email protected]> Subject: shameless ebay plug Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> E30 stuff on ebay... http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZiamnailQQhtZ-1QQfrppZ50QQfsopZ1QQfsooZ1QQrdZ0? -- This email contains no attachments unless noted in the message itself. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 05 Feb 2006 19:57:54 -0500 From: Martin Bullen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC Digest <[email protected]>, E36M3 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: How to Remove Wires from Electrical Connectors? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I'm in the process of retrofitting my pre-iBus M3 to work with a Dension icelink. I already have a CD43 single disc CD player (I like the stock look, so replacing the head unit is not an option), so it should be a question of wiring it all up, but with some new wires... If I were using a factory CD changer this would be easy: Just run the iBus CD cable to the trunk (plus an additional iBus control wire from the #7 pin on the radio connector), and patch in the power connections there, but since I'm installing the Dension, doing that would mean that I'd then have to run that cable all the way back to the front, which seems less than optimal. What I'd like to do is just use shortened cables to route everything to the glovebox where I plan to keep the iPod.. The elegant way to do this is not to cut and patch wires, but to remove the wires from the plugs, shorten them, install new terminals and reinstall. The problem is getting the terminals out of the connectors. I've tried using pins to disengage the barbs, which has worked for me on larger gauge wiring in the past, but these are just too small. And I don't want to cut open the connectors, since I want to reuse them. Is there a secret to getting the wires out, or a special tool, to do this? TIA, Martin Bullen '95 M3 '97 Z3 2.8 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2006 20:38:51 -0800 (PST) From: "Kazuto Okayasu" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: How to Remove Wires from Electrical Connectors? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > If I were using a factory CD changer this would be easy: Just run the > iBus CD cable to the trunk (plus an additional iBus control wire from > the #7 pin on the radio connector), and patch in the power > connections there, but since I'm installing the Dension, doing that > would mean that I'd then have to run that cable all the way back to > the front, which seems less than optimal. What I'd like to do is > just use shortened cables to route everything to the glovebox where I > plan to keep the iPod.. I thought the same thing for my E46. I built a custom harness that used a extra OE changer cable (the short one used with the Nak glovebox changer), a connector to connect to the iceLink (a generic AMP/Molex part) and another piece of an OE harness for power out of the center console (mine also integrates an Ericsson Bluetooth kit harness). > The elegant way to do this is not to cut and patch wires, but to > remove the wires from the plugs, shorten them, install new terminals > and reinstall. The problem is getting the terminals out of the > connectors. I've tried using pins to disengage the barbs, which has > worked for me on larger gauge wiring in the past, but these are just > too small. And I don't want to cut open the connectors, since I want > to reuse them. > I don't know what's on the back of a E36 radio, but there are some that just really aren't meant to be taken apart. Some that don't come out by dislodging barbs sometimes have a plastic insert that holds the pins in in entire rows. I didn't want to bother disassembling the factory connector, hence my buying the OE harness. The one I bought had a fully shielded and heatshrinked connector, and wasn't going to come apart without destroying it. I'm also of the 'don't cut any factory wires' so I've had to do some creative stuff for my add-ons. > Is there a secret to getting the wires out, or a special tool, to do > this? > > TIA, > > Martin Bullen > '95 M3 > '97 Z3 2.8 > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > -- Kazuto Okayasu Administrative Computing Services University of California, Irvine ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 06 Feb 2006 09:38:06 -0500 From: KMS- Brett Anderson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Martin Bullen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, UUC Digest <[email protected]> Subject: Re: How to Remove Wires from Electrical Connectors? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Are you talking about a factory BMW connector? If so, there is a lock in the plastic connector that must be undone, then there is a special tool to remove the pins on some, or others the pins will just slide out once the lock is released. Also, if you're talking about a factory connector, you're wasting your time anyway, as you cannot buy the pin contacts to put on the end of the wires you're planning on cutting. Brett Anderson KMS Martin Bullen wrote: > I'm in the process of retrofitting my pre-iBus M3 to work with a > Dension icelink. I already have a CD43 single disc CD player (I like > the stock look, so replacing the head unit is not an option), so it > should be a question of wiring it all up, but with some new wires... > > If I were using a factory CD changer this would be easy: Just run the > iBus CD cable to the trunk (plus an additional iBus control wire from > the #7 pin on the radio connector), and patch in the power connections > there, but since I'm installing the Dension, doing that would mean that > I'd then have to run that cable all the way back to the front, which > seems less than optimal. What I'd like to do is just use shortened > cables to route everything to the glovebox where I plan to keep the iPod.. > > The elegant way to do this is not to cut and patch wires, but to remove > the wires from the plugs, shorten them, install new terminals and > reinstall. The problem is getting the terminals out of the > connectors. I've tried using pins to disengage the barbs, which has > worked for me on larger gauge wiring in the past, but these are just > too small. And I don't want to cut open the connectors, since I want > to reuse them. > > Is there a secret to getting the wires out, or a special tool, to do this? > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2006 07:26:01 -0800 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: How to Remove Wires from Electrical Connectors? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> from poster Chris T BMW's electrical connector handbook (PN: 90-88-6-611-159) show's how to take the connectors apart. and it lists a bunch of BMW special tools you may need. I paid $13 for the handbook. It has come in pretty handy as I rip out my wiring harness. Marco Martin Bullen wrote: > I'm in the process of retrofitting my pre-iBus M3 to work with a > Dension icelink. I already have a CD43 single disc CD player (I like > the stock look, so replacing the head unit is not an option), so it > should be a question of wiring it all up, but with some new wires... > > If I were using a factory CD changer this would be easy: Just run the > iBus CD cable to the trunk (plus an additional iBus control wire from > the #7 pin on the radio connector), and patch in the power connections > there, but since I'm installing the Dension, doing that would mean that > I'd then have to run that cable all the way back to the front, which > seems less than optimal. What I'd like to do is just use shortened > cables to route everything to the glovebox where I plan to keep the iPod.. > > The elegant way to do this is not to cut and patch wires, but to remove > the wires from the plugs, shorten them, install new terminals and > reinstall. The problem is getting the terminals out of the > connectors. I've tried using pins to disengage the barbs, which has > worked for me on larger gauge wiring in the past, but these are just > too small. And I don't want to cut open the connectors, since I want > to reuse them. > > Is there a secret to getting the wires out, or a special tool, to do this? > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2006 08:33:10 -0800 (PST) From: Tammer Farid <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: C/D was: How to Remove Wires ...? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hey Marco, Saw mention of you in the latest Car and Driver, along with Mark D's site justracing.com ... congrats! Looked like a great team effort. -tammer --- Marco Romani <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > from poster Chris T > > BMW's electrical connector > handbook (PN: 90-88-6-611-159) > > show's how to take the connectors apart. and it lists a > bunch of BMW special > tools you may need. I paid $13 for the handbook. It has > come in pretty > handy as I rip out my wiring harness. > > Marco > > > > Martin Bullen wrote: > > I'm in the process of retrofitting my pre-iBus M3 to > work with a > > Dension icelink. I already have a CD43 single disc CD > player (I like > > the stock look, so replacing the head unit is not an > option), so it > > should be a question of wiring it all up, but with some > new wires... > > > > If I were using a factory CD changer this would be > easy: Just run the > > iBus CD cable to the trunk (plus an additional iBus > control wire from > > the #7 pin on the radio connector), and patch in the > power connections > > there, but since I'm installing the Dension, doing that > would mean that > > I'd then have to run that cable all the way back to > the front, which > > seems less than optimal. What I'd like to do is just > use shortened > > cables to route everything to the glovebox where I > plan to keep the > iPod.. > > > > The elegant way to do this is not to cut and patch > wires, but to remove > > the wires from the plugs, shorten them, install new > terminals and > > reinstall. The problem is getting the terminals out of > the > > connectors. I've tried using pins to disengage the > barbs, which has > > worked for me on larger gauge wiring in the past, but > these are just > > too small. And I don't want to cut open the > connectors, since I want > > to reuse them. > > > > Is there a secret to getting the wires out, or a > special tool, to do > this? > > > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder > of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of > the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder > of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of > the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2006 09:13:11 -0800 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: C/D was: How to Remove Wires ...? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> <looking down, kicking stone on the ground> Ah shucks :-) One of the top ten things I've done in my life so far. It was a blast. Marco -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Tammer Farid Sent: Monday, February 06, 2006 8:33 AM To: [email protected] Subject: [UUC] C/D was: How to Remove Wires ...? Hey Marco, Saw mention of you in the latest Car and Driver, along with Mark D's site justracing.com ... congrats! Looked like a great team effort. -tammer --- Marco Romani <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > from poster Chris T > > BMW's electrical connector > handbook (PN: 90-88-6-611-159) > > show's how to take the connectors apart. and it lists a > bunch of BMW special > tools you may need. I paid $13 for the handbook. It has > come in pretty > handy as I rip out my wiring harness. > > Marco > > > > Martin Bullen wrote: > > I'm in the process of retrofitting my pre-iBus M3 to > work with a > > Dension icelink. I already have a CD43 single disc CD > player (I like > > the stock look, so replacing the head unit is not an > option), so it > > should be a question of wiring it all up, but with some > new wires... > > > > If I were using a factory CD changer this would be > easy: Just run the > > iBus CD cable to the trunk (plus an additional iBus > control wire from > > the #7 pin on the radio connector), and patch in the > power connections > > there, but since I'm installing the Dension, doing that > would mean that > > I'd then have to run that cable all the way back to > the front, which > > seems less than optimal. What I'd like to do is just > use shortened > > cables to route everything to the glovebox where I > plan to keep the > iPod.. > > > > The elegant way to do this is not to cut and patch > wires, but to remove > > the wires from the plugs, shorten them, install new > terminals and > > reinstall. The problem is getting the terminals out of > the > > connectors. I've tried using pins to disengage the > barbs, which has > > worked for me on larger gauge wiring in the past, but > these are just > > too small. And I don't want to cut open the > connectors, since I want > > to reuse them. > > > > Is there a secret to getting the wires out, or a > special tool, to do > this? > > > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder > of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of > the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder > of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of > the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 05 Feb 2006 17:43:59 -0800 From: Dave Thomas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC Digest <[email protected]> Subject: Key safe? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Since we usually have a car or two that is not being driven, and plenty of spare keys and remotes of the cars we are driving, I have been looking for a good key 'lock box' to store the keys in. I am looking for something easy enough to access so it will get used on a regular basis, but something small enough for a 4-5 car fleet, so far everything I have found is either huge or a PITA to use. Do any of you multi-car types have something you use that you would suggest? Thanks, Dave T. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2006 20:26:20 -0800 (PST) From: "Kazuto Okayasu" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Key safe? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Since we usually have a car or two that is not being driven, and plenty > of spare keys and remotes of the cars we are driving, I have been > looking for a good key 'lock box' to store the keys in. I am looking for > something easy enough to access so it will get used on a regular basis, > but something small enough for a 4-5 car fleet, so far everything I have > found is either huge or a PITA to use. Do any of you multi-car types > have something you use that you would suggest? If you really want to secure it (i.e. have some sort of lock) check office supply catalogs. I've seen some that are reasonably small (about the size of a hardcover book) but can be securely mounted somewhere and be accessible via an integrated combination lock. I just have a plain keyhook board on the wall of my kitchen. > > Thanks, > Dave T. > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > -- Kazuto Okayasu Administrative Computing Services University of California, Irvine ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 05 Feb 2006 18:00:07 -0800 From: Dave Thomas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: <E36> Thermostat Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On Fri, 2006-02-03 at 12:53 -0800, Richard Dorffer wrote: > Dealer price went up ~2 years ago quite significantly, the list price went to > $24-$26 per gallon > (matrix is something silly like $30). Just recently, it went down by $1-$2 > which is the first > price reduction they have had. Asking nice at my local BMW dealer gets me the coolant for about $20 a jug...not quite the price I can get the G05 for but close enough so that I pay the extra just to see the blue ;-) Dave T. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2006 17:31:06 -0600 From: "Alex Cagann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: <WTB> radio Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I am looking for a factory radio called the CD43. It was optional in E36 3 series, and some Z3's. It has cd changer compatibility. If anyone has one they would like to sell, let me know. Alex Cagann http://www.autoconsortium.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2006 15:45:04 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Subject: <E36> heater hoses Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Since we're going to do the water pump etc. on my son's E36, we might as well do the heater hoses. From the realoem site it looks like the intake must come off. Is this the case? I don't have the Bentley in front of me....it's at home. thanks all, -Kevin e36 '96 328 sedan ---------------------------------------------------------------- This e-mail communication is confidential and is intended only for the individual(s) or entity named above and others who have been specifically authorized to receive it. If you are not the intended recipient, please do not read, copy, use or disclose the contents of this communication to others. Please notify the sender that you have received this e-mail in error by replying to the e-mail. Please then delete the e-mail and any copies of it. Thank you. ---------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 06 Feb 2006 20:03:54 -0500 From: KMS- Brett Anderson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], UUC Digest <[email protected]> Subject: Re: <E36> heater hoses Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Doesn't have to come off. Job can be made easier by removing the throttle body (re-usable rubber gasket) as it gives more clearance to get the "octopus" hose out. We do them on a fairly regular basis in the shop. Takes an experienced tech about 1 hour to change them all, so using Rich Dorffer's labour schedule, allow 4 hours. Brett Anderson KMS [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > Since we're going to do the water pump etc. on my son's E36, we might as > well do the heater hoses. From the realoem site it looks like the intake > must come off. Is this the case? > > I don't have the Bentley in front of me....it's at home. > > thanks all, > -Kevin > e36 '96 328 sedan ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 06 Feb 2006 18:56:15 -0500 From: Carey Probst <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: E36M3 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "[email protected]" <[email protected]>, [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Radiator stop leak Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Have any of you tried any of the radiator stop leak products in your BMWs? Experience and recommendations would be appreciated. I have a pinhole leak in the radiator and it's too cold outside to change it right now. Just want to stop the leak until spring when I can change it and not get frostbite. It's for my E30, not the M3. TIA Carey -- Carey Probst Member, M.I.T. Educational Council Perm: [EMAIL PROTECTED] A well regulated militia being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear arms shall not be infringed. ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(14 messages) **********
