Re: [h-cost] new books
I am waiting for another 18thC book I ordered last week...18th C Costume in the National Museums and Galleries on Merseyside. I will look for your title also! Kathleen - Original Message - From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2006 6:39 PM Subject: [h-cost] new books This is not one of the books talked about here, but i do really look forwards to this book, wich will be released 29th of april: Dress in France in the Eighteenth Century By: Madeleine Delpierre Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: Things that make you cringe....
a favorite moment watching one of these on late nightfilms: the ad sequence included Hartz Mountain flea powder. Of course, the ad breaks would air just when the poor monster was in one of his dances! - Original Message - From: Pierre Sandy Pettinger [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2006 2:02 AM Subject: [h-cost] Re: Things that make you cringe The favorite one that happened to me was during Godzilla 2000 (yeah, bad movie, but) - Godzilla is rampaging thru New York or someplace like that, and they've called out the military to try and stop him. There's a helicopter chasing him thru the skyscrapers, and the pilot says something like, Firing Sidewinders now. I said (half out loud) That's not gonna work! at the same time things got very quiet on screen.Of course it didn't work - it homed on a heat source in one of the buildings, rather than ostensibly cold-blooded Godzilla. That movie also has a really good line - some poor grunt in the line gets his first look at Godzilla and you hear I'm gonna need a bigger gun (whimper)! Not costume, but good for a chuckle or two... Sandy At 01:04 PM 4/25/2006, you wrote: Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2006 09:49:59 -0700 (PDT) From: Kahlara [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Re: movies-things that make you cringe Or watching a modern military action film with a vet. That is the completely wrong insignia... etc. Apparently A Few Good Men was pretty accurate with its uniforms. Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2006 08:07:39 -0300 From: kelly grant Subject: [h-cost] Movies-things that make you cringe! but because of my DH the entire family is known to yell at the screen in any movie historical or modern PICK UP THE AMMO/WEAPON, as the good guy runs around ect... Our favourite thing to make us yell at the screen...Close the damn door! When the actor walks intoa building and leaves to door open, to be closed miraculously by someone else! Those Who Fail To Learn History Are Doomed to Repeat It; Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly -- Why They Are Simply Doomed. Achemdro'hm The Illusion of Historical Fact -- C.Y. 4971 Andromeda ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Historical Films: fact vs. fiction
At least they had some imagination in not calling this The Thing III! Kathleen - Original Message - From: kelly grant [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, April 24, 2006 6:11 AM Subject: [h-cost] Historical Films: fact vs. fiction I think most modern people have both a healthy skeptism about advertising, and an awareness that fiction (including films) is not reality. I would have to disagree with you on the 'most modern people' part of your statement. I think that history nerds, of which I am a proud member ;-), are in the minority. Why else would Hollywood have the balls to make the new Titanic movie that is comming out this summer...the one where they find Jack Dawson's body frozen in a block of ice at the bottom of the North Atlantic, bring him to the surface, thaw him out and he's perfectly healthy! I saw the trailer the other night...look for it, but try not to gag! We had enough problems at the museum with the first movie...here goes round two! You would not believe the things people say. Kelly ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: The Hype will go on.....
I went to see the movie with a group from my book club; out to snack later they all swooped upon me with What did you think of the wonderful costumes!! I was only willing to speak about a couple of the hats in a more or less complimentary manner and they couldn't understand... Kathleen - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, April 24, 2006 2:31 PM Subject: [h-cost] Re: The Hype will go on. In a message dated 4/24/2006 2:00:33 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: AMEN! Kathleen Hahahahahathat's science fiction! Anything's better that the original! [I'm teasing!] ** Now I must be fare and admit the sinking of the ship was amazingly done and very exciting. But the damn PLOT keep interfering and getting in the way! To keep on subject: I hate most the costumes in Titanic. I don't think the designer understood the period at all. Some of the gowns [especially the mother's] look real and are fine. And the hats are great. But Rose's costumes were awful. Thank God everyone's stopped making that boring red jump dress for prom night! And I love the image of fluttering silk as they run through the engine room, but the dress has little to do with the period. And that clunky yellow thing she wears topside which looks like it had puffer paint on it. The opening hat was fantastic; the suit, with the switcheroo stripe details looked like a high school design. Ever her corset was wrong. If you want to see how Rose, a wealthy young avant garde, should've been dressed, I suggest a film that came out about the same time: Wings of the Dove. The delicious Charlotte Rampling runs around in hostess pajamas and a turban. The two girls on holiday in Venice wear Fortuni gowns and kimono style overtunics in Art Nouveau printed velvets. And the colors! It's just perfect. One of Sandy Powell's best! Good flick too. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Possibly little known costume film
We caught this on Turner Classics last week and were charmed (if that is the right word!) with the story line as well as the costumes. Kathleen - Original Message - From: Lavolta Press [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, April 21, 2006 5:45 PM Subject: [h-cost] Possibly little known costume film The Life and Death of Colonel Blimp, produced in England in 1943 in early Technicolor (which here comes off looking painterly rather than crude). This film is a rather mild, understanding, even sentimental satire of the Victorian/Edwardian school of gentlemanly war, and indeed of that style of gentleman. However, due to the war effort the film came under a great deal of criticism at the time, and Churchill was among those who felt it should not even be released. With historical hindsight, its political points seem quite true, rather than inflammatory. But it's not entirely a war flick; in fact, it's in large part a romance. It starts in 1901 or 1902 (I forget which) and continues up to the early 1940s. As far as costumes, settings, etc. go it's quite lavish for its period. It's a good thing this film has been re-released. Fran Lavolta Press http://www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Mouldy linen/dyed linen
A drastic move because it contains chlorine...Aunt Ellen's stain remover (JoAnns carries it) This is a wonder product for the type of stain you are dealing with. I had a tux shirt that went through the wash with the bow tie in the pocket and was dismayed that the red bled at that spot of contact. Used AE while the garment was still wet and it worked like magic. I then tried it on my favorite Tea Cozy that had long set in stains from normal use and was amazed that I was able to bring it to almost new appearance. It is a 'spot' cleaner, and as I said has some chlorine in it and ? But it works, and my linens do not seem to be the worse for the treatment. It comes for colored fabric as well as white. I have not seen noticeable affect on the surrounding fibers. - Original Message - From: Gwen [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, April 22, 2006 9:01 AM Subject: [h-cost] Mouldy linen/dyed linen I've read all the posts about the mouldy linen but what about a white linen that dye has bled into? I have heavy white linen and it has blue black stains on it from another fabric that was touching it. Gwenhwyfar ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Fw: Colonial Gentlemen
Heads up for you folk in Virginia. The following 'shoot' will be in your neck of the woods and mayhap some of you might like to respond to Mary, at Paladin. I assisted this group in February, and they were great folk to work with. Kathleen - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, April 19, 2006 10:27 AM Subject: Colonial Gentlemen Hi,Kathleen, Thanks very much for your help on this. We are having a very difficult time casting these roles, so any assistance you could provide would be fantastic. Here are the specs for what we need. You can just cut and paste this into an email. Thanks again to you and all of your contacts who help us spread the word! Mary Paladin Communications, producer of When the Forest Ran Red and George Washington's First War, is seeking gentlemen who could portray burgesses/congressmen in Gentleman Warrior: George Washington, a new feature documentary. Gentleman Warrior explores the hidden side of Washington--the inner conflicts of the man who would forge a nation. Here we see his military and political career, and also the personal story of his involvement with Sally Fairfax and Martha Custis. And as a nation, we begin to understand his growth of character from a hot-headed youth to a man capable of winning a revolution. Paladin will present for the first time on screen the real George Washington--not an icon, not the perfect American, but a flesh-and-blood human being who became the greatest hero of all. We are seeking gentleman who: 1. Have their own appropriate 18th century wardrobe. 2. Are available to be on location at the College of William Mary in Williamsburg, Virginia on May 23 or 24 (one or both days). Other information about the portrayals: * These are non-speaking roles. * Compensation is, at minimum, $100. * Lunch will be provided. * You can find more information on Paladin Communications and the production at http://www.paladincom.com/gentlemanwarrior.shtml * Contact Mary Matzen at [EMAIL PROTECTED] or 866-831-4840. Thank you for your interest in being part of this ground-breaking documentary! mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://mail2web.com/ . ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Two questions
Curious...when we were in Austin, TX. in the '90s, I was amazed to see as many shoe/hat reconditioning/ cleaning establishments as Cleaners! Or so it seemed. I made the assumption that this might be typical of most Western states. Once or twice I have seen discreet signs where one might be buying Stetsons, of a hat cleaning service available... Kathleen - Original Message - From: Elizabeth Young [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, April 15, 2006 1:04 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Two questions my (almost) local hat store will stretch hats. liz young (near sacramento) Sylvia Rognstad wrote: I live in the Denver area and haven't come across any such place. Maybe I'll check a shoe repair shop. On Apr 14, 2006, at 4:16 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: In a message dated 4/14/2006 5:44:19 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Speaking of stretching hats, is there any way to stretch out a leather cowboy hat? *** I'm sure you can do that. They stretch gloves and shoes. You need to make the leather supple. I'm sure a shoe repair place [that stretches shoes] can help you with what product will do that. Then you need some kind of form to stretch the hat on. Are there no places that blocks hats in your area? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] curtains
I got it too, but haven't had time to reply.Can do it later today! Kathleen - Original Message - From: Katie Lewis [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, April 11, 2006 1:21 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] curtains Kathleen wrote: Bought the sarong at the same time and inquired how I might get a bolt of That fabric. The response was NA. Sigh... Coincidentally, I just got an email from Dharma asking for suggestions about what new fabrics people want to see, so it might be worthwhile to email them. -Katie -- ___ Search for businesses by name, location, or phone number. -Lycos Yellow Pages http://r.lycos.com/r/yp_emailfooter/http://yellowpages.lycos.com/default.asp?SRC=lycos10 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] curtains
What a great idea! I am always having trouble finding cotton shear enough! Dharma carries the right weight, but only in sarongs (72 lengths). Their other cottons are quite wonderful, but heavier than one needs for a nice Regency. Kathleen - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, April 08, 2006 9:09 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] curtains In a message dated 4/8/2006 8:56:23 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Am I the only one who goes shopping for new curtains thinking, And when I get tired of these I can use them for costumes! I just buy curtains to make costumes in the first place--Indian cotton sheers make great Regency-era dresses. Ann Wass ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] curtains
I have wanted to try these panels or coverlet for an 18thC petticoat. I have an older one cut (It was shabby and I suppose could have been used for a quilt batt) but this is a little heavier than the contemporary bedding/drapery. It will be somewhat bulky I anticipate... Kathleen - Original Message - From: Dawn [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, April 08, 2006 11:12 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] curtains Elizabeth Walpole wrote: but it's really hard to get curtains without rubber backing (unless you make them yourself but that's time you could be spending on garb) Elizabeth Here in the US they come without rubber backings, and I saw quite a number of velvets and brocades at a home store Friday. Ended up with lovely (polyester) matelasse panels for the bedroom. No rubber backs. :) Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Eyelet insertion trim
You will find cotton laces at Homesew.com. I have been using their notions catalogue for years. Great selections of trim and notions in small yardage or whole bolts. (And their packets of 25 machine needles for less than $4 is a must for anyone doing costume type sewing!) Kathleen - Original Message - From: Katy Bishop [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, March 24, 2006 8:22 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Eyelet insertion trim This site claims to have all cotton trims, they're pricey. http://www.baltazor.com/xmasemb.html Katy On 3/24/06, Sylvia Rognstad [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Does anyone have any good online trim resources besides Jay Trims and Cheaptrims? I am looking for black eyelet insertion or dyeable white and can't seem to find it anywhere. Sylrog ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume -- Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian [EMAIL PROTECTED]www.VintageVictorian.com Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era. Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] adding sleave frills
I like the lay better if the ruffles are gathered and set separately.. Otherwise, the fold you describe appears more as a time saver lacking in grace. Kathleen - Original Message - From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, March 24, 2006 2:47 PM Subject: [h-cost] adding sleave frills Hi, When adding 2 frills to an 18th century outfit, would you not gather each frill up separately, and then attach them on top of eachother? If i gather both on the same time, they make the same folds, wich i dont think is right? Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: Eyelet insertion trim
In my experience, the product is super even if a little pricey for some of the patterns. I have had very good service. Kathleen - Original Message - From: Kathy Page [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, March 24, 2006 2:57 PM Subject: [h-cost] Re: Eyelet insertion trim This was years ago, and I dealt with a Canadian distributor, which she was ahem... difficult, to say the least to deal with. I gave her the name The Dragon Lady for very good reason. She has since passed away and now Canada has no distributor, that I am currently aware of. I have no idea what Capitol is like directly though. I have a bunch of Val kicking around as well not earmarked for a project. If I have enough for your project, or at least some of it to get you started, let me know and we'll work something out. I'm only looking to get my costs out of this stuff, so I'm not planning on charging a fortune. I only keep the stuff I might make an outrageously fancy heirloom dress for my daughter out of. I largely don't do Vic anymore, swiss and val laces look wrong on Ren kits. Kathy I've ben thinking of looking into Capitol Imports. How are they to deal with? I have a big project coming up that will require lots of Val lace trim. Ermine, a lion rampant tail nowed gules charged on the shoulder with a rose Or barbed, seeded, slipped and leaved vert It's never too late to be who you might have been. -George Eliot For every beauty there is an eye somewhere to see it. For every truth there is an ear somewhere to hear it. For every love there is a heart somewhere to receive it. -Ivan Panin __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] ladys 18th century tangled garden
In making a jacket of this mode,I have found that the kind of fabric sort of dictates whether or not to gather or pleat. I think that pleating has a more formal look. Given the planned embroidery, the formalness of the garment is already indicated. I have made several of this style and have found that if the fabric is thick or heavy, trying to pleat is ends up with a very stiff flare in the areas that most need drape. Kathleen - Original Message - From: Ann Catelli [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2006 8:31 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] ladys 18th century tangled garden --- WickedFrau [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote: Pleats or gathers where? Sleeves or peplum? Gathers for the sleeves, pleats for the peplum is my vote! Sg I'll go with this, too, or pleats on both. Ann in CT __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Book on Lace Question
Ah, but remember that boys of this time period did not wear distinctive dress until they had been breached! Kathleen --- Original Message - From: Alexandria Doyle [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, March 21, 2006 11:10 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Book on Lace Question I have this one, and it looks like three girls, not the boy and two sisters described. I've found a couple of James I family paintings, but not this one, yet. alex I got this one to show up that sounds like it might be it, but it's tiny. http://www.elalmanaque.com/infantil/images/Retratoninasp.jpg And of course, if would have helped if I'd uncluded the URL! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Simplicity 4219
My immediate take of this pattern item is that the book-holder is meant to be a Cleric and thus gives an illustration for a third class of users for the pattern. It almost looks as if it were a cassock of some style,,,even with the fallen lace band. kathleen - Original Message - From: Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, March 20, 2006 11:57 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Simplicity 4219 At 16:49 20/03/2006, you wrote: This is a new pattern for costume shirts. I was wondering if anyone can identify view A (lower right corner with the book) and tell me what time period it's supposed to be from: http://www.simplicity.com/assets/4219/4219.jpg Dawn Apparently, here in England, a shirt like this is sold as a poet shirt. (Not sure which one this refers to, although I think maybe bottom left - was talking to someone at the weekend about this pattern but as I wasn't planning on buying, didn't register all of the info!) I think as the shirt you refer to has a black stock it is likely to be that loose period Regency meaning anything from late 18th to mid 1840's, according to some descriptions I've read. Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] RE back side lacing was:Stomacher --a photo demo
I forget which pattern I followed, but the instructions for the bib front has a inner bodice front that hooks center front. The 'bib' is sewn at the right shoulder and armseye. The other side flips up and is fastened with snaps across the shoulder and down the left side following the seam line which includes the other armseye. The skirt front is sewn to the lining (Bodice) to the center front and this too is attached to the L side seam with hooks/eyes and snaps. One of the antique garments that I have seen was of a shear dimity with a floral pattern. Th left side of the under bodice had a strip of about 4this patterned cloth sewn over the bodice, so that when closed by the bib, would appear the same as the outer cover...if there were gaps. Putting this dress on can be done by one's self...A plus! Kathleen - Original Message - From: Hope Greenberg [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, March 20, 2006 9:24 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE back side lacing was:Stomacher --a photo demo Here are a few examples from the Bradfield book Bjarne mentioned: Early style (1803-10): Apron front: http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/regency/books-helps/bradfield-costume-p88.jpg anther apron style: http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/regency/books-helps/bradfield-costume-p89.jpg http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/regency/books-helps/bradfield-costume-p90.jpg Back closure ties and button: http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/regency/books-helps/bradfield-costume-p92.jpg Back closure, ties and hooks: http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/regency/books-helps/bradfield-costume-p94.jpg Another variation of the apron style: http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/regency/books-helps/bradfield-costume-p96.jpg Here's a later style (1815ish) with back hooks: http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/regency/evening-extant/1815-ball-peach-mccord.JPG and one with ties (c. 1823): http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/regency/evening-extant/1823-clear-blue-bowes.jpg It's a bit odd to modern eyes because there are gaps, but beneath the gaps would have been a shift, probably some form of stays, and a petticoat. - Hope (who is currently in the throes of pulling together materials for a presentation to the local English Country Dance Group on early 19th century gowns, probable title It's All in the Details, or, How to Make a Regency Ballgown that Doesn't Look Like a Hippie Prom Dress) Jean Waddie wrote: This pink dress reminded me... a friend is making a Regency style gown, for a party so it doesn't have to be particularly authentic, but neither of us can work out - how/where do they fasten? Some have buttons down the centre back, but most don't seem to have any visible opening. Please, somebody, give us a clue? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Simplicity 4219
My apologies. I meant Cotta. I have seen some clerical formal garments that have the lace ruffle. The sleeve style is what struck me as being significant. The Presbyterian collar (also Methodist?) is the collar of which you spoke, I believe. Kathleen - Original Message - From: Kate M Bunting [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, March 21, 2006 9:19 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Simplicity 4219 The ruffle looks to me like an early 19th century shirt-frill. Clerical bands are not ruffled - and a cassock is not a shirt but a close-fitting coat with long skirts. Kate Bunting Librarian and 17th century reenactor [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21/03/2006 13:38 My immediate take of this pattern item is that the book-holder is meant to be a Cleric and thus gives an illustration for a third class of users for the pattern. It almost looks as if it were a cassock of some style,,,even with the fallen lace band. kathleen __ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Early 19th century French term
The translation sure sound like the tool I got in January...online. Kathleen - Original Message - From: Diana Habra [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2006 11:27 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Early 19th century French term Has anyone run across a reference to some sort of early 19th-century tool for pinking fabric called an arrache-pièce à dents? (I'm not sure the accents will come through in the email you receive, but I tried. The only modern reference I've found to this terms to a tool called a gear puller in English, and this is certainly not that.) If so can you point me to any more info? As near as I can translate it (from my 4+ years of high school french) the literal translation is a piece puller with teeth. So your modern reference is very close to the french term. Could it be like the antique pinking tools you can see on EBay where you turn a crank and run the fabric through to pink the edge? Hope that helps... diana www.RenaissanceFabrics.net Everything for the Costumer Become the change you want to see in the world. --Ghandi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Early 19th century French term
Do I recall a thread( that might now be in the archives) when the topic of pinking became a lively discussion of just such punchers that some of the people who do 18th C and maybe earlier were using...or looking for? I recall that someone had an earlier tool that others were suggesting that maybe someone doing metal crafting might copy for the benefit of the members who might want one. I guess that I had not seen the referent for the tool presently in question. Alas... Mine for the 19th C is proving to be most useful. I sure am glad I spotted it when I did. One that would do both sides at once would be an even Bigger help. Kathleen - Original Message - From: Lavolta Press [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, March 19, 2006 12:18 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Early 19th century French term My reference comes from almost a century earlier than the crank pinker you bought--I checked the picture of yours when you bought it. Do you have a picture of a crank pinker for home use like the one you bought but from the early 19th century/Regency period? All the other references I have from the same document are for an emporte-pièce, that is a punch, for pinking. From context the arrache-pièce à dents is something that pinks both edges of a strip of material, but I do not know whether it is a two-sided punch or some other kind device. Thanks, Fran Lavolta Press http://www.lavoltapress.com Lloyd Mitchell wrote: The translation sure sound like the tool I got in January...online. Kathleen ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Great Coat
Sounds to me that this coat might be her own term for a RobeD'Anglais? Even in these modern times I hear discussions about coat dresses of the 18th C. Kathleen - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, March 16, 2006 10:20 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Great Coat In a message dated 3/16/2006 8:51:40 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: When Struensee, a german doctor was excecuted in Copenhagen, the newspapers wrote that he wore a Viltskur wich is the danish name of a greatcoat made of fur. His fur coat was made of wolf. It was angle lenght and had a big collar attached to it according to the print they published of the episode. The german doctor had first his right hand cut off, then his head. He had an affair with our queen. Thanks Bjarne, but in the context this is definitely a dress of some kind. One of several references--We have retired to dress for dinner. Shall I tell you our dresses? I hear you say Yes. Mrs. P. wears a brocade; Cousin M. her pink Great-Coat, and I my pink. However, your story reminded me that I read a historical novel years ago about this queen. According to that author, her husband was, ahem, not that interested in women, so she turned elsewhere for solace. It was so long ago that I don't remember the title or author, but I remember it was about a queen of Denmark, and that her lover was a learned man. Ann Wass ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Great Coat
Also, is this diary American or English or whatever. I suppose that could in itself give a clue. Kathleen - Original Message - From: michaela [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, March 16, 2006 10:53 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Great Coat I'm reading a diary of a young woman in Virginia in 1787, and she uses the term great coat for an article of clothing. It is clear from the context that this is NOT the many-caped, overcoat type garment. I know that coat could refer to a petticoat, but any ideas as to this particular usage? Would it be possible to read this in context? It may help us understand the context better as well. Have you tried the 18thC woman list on yahoo? http://groups.yahoo.com/group/18cWoman/ michaela de bruce http://glittersweet.com -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.2.4/282 - Release Date: 15/03/2006 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: monk underwear
This was my first thought, too!! Makes one wonder what the daily Rule was. Kathleen - Original Message - From: Gail Scott Finke [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, March 15, 2006 7:41 AM Subject: [h-cost] Re: monk underwear In latin: (for those who don't trust translations :-) Femoralia hi qui in via diriguntur de vestario accipiant, quae revertentes lota ibi restituant. Et cucullae et tunicae sint aliquanto a solio quas habent modice meliores; quas exeuntes in via accipiant de vestario et revertentes restituant. And in English: Brothers going on a journey should get underclothing from the wardrobe. On their return they are to wash it and give it back. Their cowls and tunics, too, ought to be somewhat better than those they ordinarily wear. Let them get these from the wardrobe before departing, and on returning put them back. Wow! And I thought Wear clean underwear without holes in case you get in a car crash and have to go to the hospital was a NEW sensibility! Gail Finke ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Stiffening wool felt hats
Taking a hint from my sister the dollmaker, get a can of cheap hairspray like Aquanet and spray the hat inside and out to a feel of saturation. As the hat dries, work the 'dents' out with your fingers and mold it to the shape you want. Spray lightly for the finish and let it dry thoroughly. I have been using this method on recondition my round hats and tricorns etc for some time and they look very nice. Kathleen - Original Message - From: A J Garden [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, March 13, 2006 5:10 PM Subject: [h-cost] Stiffening wool felt hats Does anyone have a recipe I could use to stiffen some hats? I've got some old floppy wool felt hats I want to turn into cavalier hats. Thanks, Aylwen http://www.earthlydelights.com.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Tea towels
Ah, but one misses out on the practical activity of treading all the dusty or muddy trails! A great way to walk off a few pounds. Also, the venture of the hand and eye in discovering potential bargains has its own pleasure. In our region, most of the reproductive linen has catered more to the multitudes of Battenberg enthusiast than good old birdseye and other interesting weaves. Huck cloths aplenty, too. Kathleen - Original Message - From: Lavolta Press [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, March 12, 2006 1:58 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tea towels There are hundreds and hundreds of fancy (and not so fancy) vintage and antique tablecloths, towels, tea towels, bedspreads, handkerchiefs, and linens of all sorts on eBay. Embroidered, printed, crocheted, tatted, fringed, woven, plaid, striped, plain, and everything you can think of. You can buy them individually or as part of a big lot, and in conditions ranging from perfect to awful. I was buying embroidered tablecloths to make into skirts for awhile, at great prices, but after buying eight or so within a few days I gave up browsing the textiles. There were just too many. But if you look under Collectibles/Linens, Fabric and Textiles or Antiques, Textiles and Linens (the latter are generally pricier items), you'll never have to spend hours at a flea market again--just in front of your computer. I had the sense to do a search on tea towels, after I posted. Irish Linen tea towels appear to have been popular since the early 1970s, judging by the fact that some are dated (because they're printed with calendars for the year). There are scads on eBay, though most are printed with very tacky designs. I didn't find any William Morris ones (even though I've just worn out four in my kitchen, bought from museum catalogs at different times). If anyone is interested, many of the towels are listed on eBay for about $5, and they are very effective as hand and dish towels. I got three printed with Book of Kells designs which are a bit bright for my taste, but that will fade as they get beat up and washed every week (the reason why I passed up all the vintage embroidered ones listed--we use the towels heavily). Also one printed with a picture of the Louvre (tea towels seem to be popular tourist items). Then someone on h-costume, whose message I accidentally deleted, kindly sent me a link to the online store of the Country Dance and Song Society, where you can buy the Book of Kells towels: http://www.cdss.org/sales/holiday.html But if anyone knows anywhere in the US to get more William Morris tea towels (I did find some places in England), please let me know. Fran Lavolta Press http://www.lavoltapress.com Lloyd Mitchell wrote: Fran, the only time I have seen any that might be as you describe is at antique flea markets...such as Brimfield in Ma. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: European ancestors
Bjarne. My older daughter had a strange experience the first time she went to the USSR. As her group passed through Helsinki, she felt she was seeing many people who looked like her, and that the language she should have been studying was Finnish and not Russian. Her senior year in college she changed her language from Russian to Finnish and spent the rest of her senior in Turkou. The following summer she traveled up into the Arctic Circle to meet the Lapps. It was here that she Really felt at home. We have a picture of her in Lapp costume in a large family group where she looks to be like everyone else. Her great grandfather has the name of Fenlason...and always felt His family was from Scotland. I think the Scottish link to have been from Scandinavia. Erika is somewhat short and tends to be round. My family is southern Ireland and southern England. The genes will 'out.Kathleen Original Message - From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, March 13, 2006 4:36 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: European ancestors Hi, Yes and i would like to add, as it was me who sended the bad message at first about all americans being of europe origin. This was a stupid thing, it was not intended to be of any type of racism or anything, just a blubr from my part. I should have said that every american has origins from the old world, not europe. Sorry about this. What about russia, dont russia count in as european? I really dont know. Everytime i visits the gustavians in Sweden, i can always tell they are swedish, and that even that we are so close neighbors, Denmark and Sweden it is very typically the way they look like. Something about their eyes, and their shape of face. Off cause many swedes are very pale and has blue eyes and golden hair, but it is not only that. Here in Denmark we have many danes with very dark hair and also dark skin. They have their origin from Spain, as Denmark had a lot of spanish troops living in Jutland, during the wars in 1864. Funny how our past still have so much influence for us all. Bjarne - Original Message - From: Adele de Maisieres [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, March 13, 2006 9:17 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: European ancestors I'm mainly of Irish and French-Canadian descent, with some Swedish, Welsh, and English thrown in. Apparently, I'm very Irish looking with extremely fair skin and green eyes. My costume obsession: early 16th-century Florence. -- Adele de Maisieres - Habeo metrum - musicamque, hominem meam. Expectat alium quid? -Georgeus Gershwinus - ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Tea towels
Ah Me...My passion these last two months has been e-Bay and dolls! I have managed in a space of about 3 months to amass a fairly well balanced doll collection with which to play with in my dotage. The one thing I have realized is that I have a real thing for china dolls. Since I am after the right heads and bodies that will be graced by 19thC clothing, I have not been too particular with the original (so called) clothing or body condition. I have a nice store of vintage and antique sawdust, linen, and fabulous lace to play with. Some of the dolls have already suffered extreme makeovers,so I am not cowed by the antiquarian idea that all this history should be preserved. I am taking notes of all the carcasses along with pictures, and will save any threads that seem to be remarkable...and discard all the wrappings and patches that managed to keep the poor things together for their final destination. I've been doing the costume thing since 1976 and am rapidly getting free of the things I don't want to play with, and am basically diminishing the size of the costume project but retaining the construction and detail including jewelry and findings. Your books have been tremendously helpful to me in the past and I have discovered occasionally that I can almost take your pattern shapes as they exist on the page exactly as they are. Thank You for all your hard work. In my e-Bay travels last week I did net a wonderful pair of purple silk mules that had crewel embroidery on them for my late 18th C kit. Even the heel was ok! Happy hunting, Kathleen - Original Message - From: Lavolta Press [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, March 13, 2006 2:46 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tea towels We have vintage clothing and textile shows here too (there's one this coming weekend), and I used to love going to them. But now I love eBay more, to the extent that, when I'm pressed for time, I don't even always go to the local shows. On eBay there's just so much more merchandise available, and new stuff every day (from all over the world), and it's so much easier and quicker to browse it. I've been collecting clothing and textiles,and related publications, since I was 16. The net has just opened up the market incredibly; even though I often used to buy from other geographic areas by mail. I'm not really much of a window shopper; I look for things to buy rather than just spending hours looking around. And I don't need to lose weight, so that's not a factor. I agree though, that walking is practical exercise, in that you can get somewhere as you do it. Fran Lavolta Press http://www.lavoltapress.com Lloyd Mitchell wrote: Ah, but one misses out on the practical activity of treading all the dusty or muddy trails! A great way to walk off a few pounds. Also, the venture of the hand and eye in discovering potential bargains has its own pleasure. In our region, most of the reproductive linen has catered more to the multitudes of Battenberg enthusiast than good old birdseye and other interesting weaves. Huck cloths aplenty, too. Kathleen ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] New pattern
These hoops and bustles are wonderful, Lorena! I have the first one and the last as antiques and you have made them up just as they should be. The last one differs only from mine in that the train part button of mine buttons onto the hem of the main hoop shape. Bravo Kathleen - Original Message - From: Deredere Galbraith [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2006 12:00 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] New pattern Somehow I find the hoops and bustles a bit weird looking. I am not sure what it is. Five Rivers Chapmanry wrote: Thought some of you who re-enact Victorian and Dickens eras would be interested in the new pattern from Laughing Moon (I'm just waiting for my new stock to arrive). It's the Hoops and Bustles package, LM112. Looks like another fabulous addition to this premiere line of patterns. For details you can visit http://www.5rivers.org/en-gb/p_1058.html which will take you to that specific pattern. There's also been a wonderful addition to the Laughing Moon Men's Frock Coat pattern, in that in now includes a single-breasted, as well as the double-breasted frock coat, with the original two vests that were included in the pattern. Again, I'm just waiting for my new stock to arrive. You can view that pattern at: http://www.5rivers.org/en-gb/p_776.html Regards, Lorina Five Rivers Chapmanry purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage, re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more. 519-799-5577 [EMAIL PROTECTED] - www.5rivers.org ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] abuse of fabrics (aka care and washing)
Ain't modern fabrics a wonder? Early in my collecting career, I spent days mending and shoring up of a fragile georgette to get it to a wearable state (plainly rescued from the burn barrel). it was a wonderful pale peach color ornamented with tiny silver beads and sequins. When I had done all I could to give it one more outing I thought I would just dip it in the sink to freshen it. Ten minutes later I returned to rinse it and all that remained of the lovely design was the beads. (No one had yet told me that sequins from just about before WW2 were made of gelatin! - Original Message - From: Dawn [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, March 06, 2006 2:05 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] abuse of fabrics (aka care and washing) Leah L Watts wrote: I've always suspected Do Not Wash, Do Not Dry Clean, Spot Clean Only was a synonym for We Couldn't Be Bothered To Test This But Don't Want To Be Held Responsible. I picked up a gorgeous fully beaded and sequinned evening gown at a local thrift shop with just such a tag. It reeked of dancing all night in a smoky club but for $4 I took a chance. Laid it in a tub of cold water with mild soap and just kind of swished it gently and it came out beautifully. I'm all ready for the palace ball, I just need my glass slippers and the invitation from the prince Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] abuse of fabrics (aka care and washing)
That has certainly been my take on it for years! The so called care label puts the blame on the owner or outside establishment if the garment fails to survive the cleaning. Besides the Talon (zipper) ads, remember the Union Label (buy American!) ads when all the new fibers began to come out in the 1950s? Some of the American labels such as Jonathan Logan took great pride that you could depend on their products not to shrink or misshape in the wearing (and caring) Kathleen - Original Message - From: Leah L Watts [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, March 06, 2006 7:10 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] abuse of fabrics (aka care and washing) One of the things I learned in my studies was that legally, clothing manufacturers have to put a care label on their garments, and they have to test the garment in what ever method they recommend. Not that all manufacturer's actually _test_ the garments ... I think Tommy Hilfiger still holds the record for biggest fine from the FTC for inaccurate care labels. There's a fashion boutique that opened recently in Omaha that is already notorious among the local dry cleaners; the company I work for has told everyone to refuse garments from them because they cannot be dry cleaned regardless of the care tag. For *most* garments, regardless of fiber content, the easiest and cheapest route is to label the garment Dry Clean Only. This way they are not responsible for the poor results if the garment is cleaned some other way, and they have to spend very little money researching other cleaning methods. I've always suspected Do Not Wash, Do Not Dry Clean, Spot Clean Only was a synonym for We Couldn't Be Bothered To Test This But Don't Want To Be Held Responsible. Leah ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: Piecework
This group of a single gartered, lace covered leg, provocatively extended from various froths of silk skirts and petticoat. There are 5! each one more delicious than the other... A very cute idea. kathleen - Original Message - From: Gail Scott Finke [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, March 05, 2006 7:01 PM Subject: [h-cost] Re: Piecework Kathleen wrote: Hey there, Folk, Have you seen the latest Piecework, yet? Garden Embroidery with snippets of a stomacher and an Eliza. purse, plus a lovely coverlet all in florals. There is also a presentation of Stumpwork with instructions and a project. Knit cuffs that might be useful for the reinactor,and a wonderful 'penny rug' for contemplation by the 19th C, folk. There is also an article on collecting and caring for household textiles (including a handful of 'naughty pincushions' that I have not seen before). And finally, a calendar of textile events and shows from around the country. Naughty pincushions Gail Finke ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] abuse of fabrics (aka care and washing)
This is what I understood back in the '50s. The ads about 'non-shrinking/misshaping were placed by the WGWU, as you can still find their label in older garments. That was their hallmark about buying quality fabric. It seems that when Fashion (the customer/business ordering) took prescidence on the label, that quality began to slip. Not just in the fabric...but when outsourcing to save a union wage buck was becoming the norm...and the result is in one time wearing garments. Kathleen - Original Message - From: monica spence [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, March 06, 2006 9:11 AM Subject: RE: [h-cost] abuse of fabrics (aka care and washing) Hi-- I was a designer / patternmaker and technical designer in the garment industry for 24 years. Do not blame the manufacturer (the people who actually sew the garment) for the wording of care labels. Very often the people who make the garment follow what is demanded by the Customer (the people who order the garment from the manufacturer: Disney,. Walmart, Sears etc.) The customer gives the manufacturer a manual that gives phrases and the care label must be taken from that. The Federal Government also prevents the manufacturer from doing preventative care labling: unless you know that a certain fabric will react by doing something (eg: pouring chlorine bleach on a swimwear fabric) you cannot say do not bleach. The problem with this is that sometimes the customer insists on going the extra step in stupidity-- over the advice of the manufacturer. I once had an on-going agrument with Nordstroms about using non-chlorine bleach on a chiild's swimsuit. I lost. They insisted that the label say non-chlorine bleach as needed. The fabric was done no favors with that! Don't blame the manufacturer, blame the people who place the order with the manufacturer. We have our own share of frustrations. (Don't get me started on off-shore manufacturing...) Yours- Monica Spence -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Lloyd Mitchell Sent: Monday, March 06, 2006 8:33 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] abuse of fabrics (aka care and washing) That has certainly been my take on it for years! The so called care label puts the blame on the owner or outside establishment if the garment fails to survive the cleaning. Besides the Talon (zipper) ads, remember the Union Label (buy American!) ads when all the new fibers began to come out in the 1950s? Some of the American labels such as Jonathan Logan took great pride that you could depend on their products not to shrink or misshape in the wearing (and caring) Kathleen - Original Message - From: Leah L Watts [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, March 06, 2006 7:10 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] abuse of fabrics (aka care and washing) One of the things I learned in my studies was that legally, clothing manufacturers have to put a care label on their garments, and they have to test the garment in what ever method they recommend. Not that all manufacturer's actually _test_ the garments ... I think Tommy Hilfiger still holds the record for biggest fine from the FTC for inaccurate care labels. There's a fashion boutique that opened recently in Omaha that is already notorious among the local dry cleaners; the company I work for has told everyone to refuse garments from them because they cannot be dry cleaned regardless of the care tag. For *most* garments, regardless of fiber content, the easiest and cheapest route is to label the garment Dry Clean Only. This way they are not responsible for the poor results if the garment is cleaned some other way, and they have to spend very little money researching other cleaning methods. I've always suspected Do Not Wash, Do Not Dry Clean, Spot Clean Only was a synonym for We Couldn't Be Bothered To Test This But Don't Want To Be Held Responsible. Leah ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] abuse of fabrics (aka care and washing) question
Ah, but many of the products for washing and cleaning have changed! This will have some small effect on the textiles being treated...from my own experience. Kathleen - Original Message - From: Kim Baird [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: 'Historical Costume' [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, March 05, 2006 12:46 PM Subject: RE: [h-cost] abuse of fabrics (aka care and washing) question If you really want to know about properties and care of various fabrics, get a college textiles textbook. It will have all the technical details. You could look for a used one on alibris or abebooks. You don't need the most current, up-to-date book, because you are looking for natural fiber info, which hasn't changed much. Try a college library if you don't want to buy. Kim -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Kahlara Sent: Sunday, March 05, 2006 7:11 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] abuse of fabrics (aka care and washing) question Can someone point me in the right direction for info/resources on best washing methods fof various natural fabrics, especially linen and wool. I know that many of my off the rack 'modern' clothes specify dry cleaning, but if I were to wash my linen and wool yardage first (cool water of course), would that make the finished garment washable by the same method as well without too much risk of shrinkage? It would be so much simpler. Thanks, Annette M - Yahoo! Mail Bring photos to life! New PhotoMail makes sharing a breeze. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Piecework!
Hey there, Folk, Have you seen the latest Piecework, yet? Garden Embroidery with snippets of a stomacher and an Eliza. purse, plus a lovely coverlet all in florals. There is also a presentation of Stumpwork with instructions and a project. Knit cuffs that might be useful for the reinactor,and a wonderful 'penny rug' for contemplation by the 19th C, folk. There is also an article on collecting and caring for household textiles (including a handful of 'naughty pincushions' that I have not seen before). And finally, a calendar of textile events and shows from around the country. Now there is a summer vacation to think about... Alas, now to make it through April Fool's Day, which I will be celebrating up in West Moreland Cty (Pa.) presenting Baubles, Bangles, and Beads, another vintage/antique fashion show for a fundraiser for a service club scholarship program. I will be trotting our some of my beaded and fancy clothes one more time... Kathleen ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] RE: Goldwork
On the subject of gold work: I picked up a very interesting volume last year that has been tweaking my curiosity enough to go looking for some gold threads. The title is The Stumpwork, Goldwork and Surface Embroidery Beetle Collection every kind of beetle and related bug imaginable is reproduced in needlework... I picked it up with the idea of getting inspired to do some of the bees that are found on textiles from the 16th/19th C. particularly during the First French Empire (Napoleon and Josephine) It is awesome! When this whole discussion re gold work came about, I pulled it off the shelf again...Something new to catch my finger's fancy... Kathleen - Original Message - From: E House [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, March 04, 2006 12:54 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Goldwork Thanks for all the info, Lorina... In a couple of years, I may be putting together an order for the rarefied stuff! -E House ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] RE: Goldwork
It does not present items from history as much as demonstrating how to replicate these insects in stump work...using a lot of gold threads. It does speak plainly about handling the necessary fibers and the possible pit-falls of same. The illustrations themselves could be from a 'chapbook' of field studies of beetles (and some of their friends and relations). You might contact me privately about how you could have a 'look-see' before you invest in this volume. - Original Message - From: Susan B. Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, March 04, 2006 6:08 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Goldwork Quoting Lloyd Mitchell [EMAIL PROTECTED]: On the subject of gold work: I picked up a very interesting volume last year that has been tweaking my curiosity enough to go looking for some gold threads. The title is The Stumpwork, Goldwork and Surface Embroidery Beetle Collection every kind of beetle and related bug imaginable is reproduced in needlework... I picked it up with the idea of getting inspired to do some of the bees that are found on textiles from the 16th/19th C. particularly during the First French Empire (Napoleon and Josephine) Is there much 16th C (or earlier) things in there? That sounds like something that I'd like to get! Susan - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] University of Tennessee Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Fit of a victorian bodice
My experience, based on antique bodices in my collection, features this fitting mode only on the lining or under bodice. This point of fitting is then 'upholsterd by the outer fabric that is draped and tweaked in such a manner that the adjustment is not obvious. A dressform is definitely a plus for one of these constructions. Kathleen - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, March 02, 2006 2:12 PM Subject: [h-cost] Fit of a victorian bodice Hi, I'm making an 1865-70 bodice (first bustle era) starting from the Truly Victorian ball bodice pattern, and I'm having trouble with the fit around the armholes -- there's a horizontal stress line about 1/2 above the bottom of the armhole (right at the top of my corset) it extends about 3 into the bust, and about the same length across the back. I'm not sure how to get rid of it -- the rest of the bodice fits beautifully... I also had this problem on my princess-line tea gown using their pattern... But I thought it was due to the weight of the fabric, but that can't be the case for my current bodice... Does anyone have any suggestions for how to handle this fitting problem? Should I make the armhole bigger (and if so, should it be lower side front, lower side back, or the bottom? I'm afraid if I widen the armhole it'll just pull the armhole out of shape due to the pull...) should I let the side seam out a little bit? I thought about putting padding inside the bodice ther! e, but there is very little room... And the bodice is satin so it shows every little crinkle or dent - unfortunately you can even follow the line of the lace on the chemise if you look closely. Does anyone have any suggestions? Thank you, -sunny ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Partly OT: Stains on table linen
My anti-stain shelf includes a bottle of Aunt Ellen's (both for whites and colors, found at JoAnn's) and Oxiclean paste, as well as a tree product. Aunt Ellen's does have a bleaching element but it took 30 yr. stains out of my favorite teacozy without showing any damage to the linen fibers. A recent rescue mission for my daughter's white damask tablecloth was somewhat successful with a liberal application of Oxiclean. My favorite brightner right now is the non-chlorine product of a company called Mellauca. This is what I am using on my antique laces and other delicates, including silk. It does a great job on the obvious 'age' tints without removing the true antique colors. Kathleen - Original Message - From: Dawn [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, March 02, 2006 11:49 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Partly OT: Stains on table linen Kate M Bunting wrote: My mother has had to go into a nursing home and I'm clearing her house. I've found numerous tablecloths and napkins, some quite old and interesting, a lot of which have food stains on. I've washed them with Vanish (if you don't have that in the US, it's a new oxygen-based stain remover) but it doesn't get everything out. I don't want to bleach antique or coloured items. Suggestions, anyone? Hydrogen peroxide is pretty mild, but if the oxy-stuff didn't work you may not have luck with this either. Tried sun-bleaching it? Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Fit of a victorian bodice
This is kind of what I meant when I spoke of doing a fine-fit with the lining before you add the garment fabric. A well fitted muslin will deal with some if not all the problems of possible bias when the the outer fabric is added. Most of all my antique jackets were constructed in this way. There seems to be a slight change in the shape and the wearing when the two layers come together. My experience, anyway. This is one area that really shows up when modern patterns try to emulate the ninteenth century fit...starting with the shoulder seam sitting squarely on the shoulder. Another way the seamstresses seemed to solve the problem is with a little wadding in the armhole area. If you are using an antique construction, maybe adding the padding which will also give a look of a fuller bustline, is what is missing in your calculations. Kathleen - Original Message - From: Cin [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: sunny sunshine buchler [EMAIL PROTECTED]; h-cost [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, March 03, 2006 1:47 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fit of a victorian bodice On 3/3/06, Cin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi, I'm making an 1865-70 bodice (first bustle era) starting from the Truly Victorian ball bodice pattern, and I'm having trouble with the fit around the armholes -- there's a horizontal stress line about 1/2 above the bottom of the armhole (right at the top of my corset) it extends about 3 into the bust, and about the same length across the back. I'm not sure how to get rid of it -- the rest of the bodice fits beautifully... I'm sure you've thought of these, given your professional training, but I thought of another possible cause, the stress lines are actually due to slight bias stretch. Fix this by interlining with straight grain goods (selvedge offcuts are traditional) or tailors tape, tho this may be too heavy if your chemise lace is showing thru. Yet another possible cause, the shoulder strap wants to lie slightly outside or inside of where it was designed to go. You may have to release the side CB seams, then pivot or slide the section until the straps lie right. --cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] various fashion
Re the color black, some of you might find the chapter on Black in Anne Hollander's book Seeing Through Clothes to be very interesting..I myself have found the book to be very fascinating as well as useful for the social historian, in general. Kathleen - Original Message - From: Dawn [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2006 3:57 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] various fashion I heard a comment about the color black in clothing: People wear black because it reflects the mood of the times. The guys I know who wear black, aside from the wannabeagoth crowd, do so because they know it will match all their other black stuff. They want to look nice, but are design challenged when it comes to picking colors or textures. Fashion changes too much to keep up with, so they stay with safe neutral colors. As for dressing up in historic costume but not in real life, I rarely have RL chances to wear long gowns, silk dresses , beaded fabrics or anything requiring a crinoline. But costume events give me several chances a year to get decked out in something fancy and original. It's not that I don't want to wear ball gowns, I just don't get to many State Dinners or Coronations. :) Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Tambour hook/ was A book for Bjarne, and other 18thcentury embroiderers!!
Hedgehog Handiworks also carries them. Kathleen - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, February 24, 2006 3:10 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tambour hook/ was A book for Bjarne, and other 18thcentury embroiderers!! Try Lacis: http://www.lacis.com/catalog/search.php. --Ruth Anne Baumgartner scholar gypsy and amateur costumer -Original Message- From: Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Feb 24, 2006 11:32 AM To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Tambour hook/ was A book for Bjarne, and other 18th century embroiderers!! Now I have had time to look at this beautiful book, I want to try tambour embroidery. (Not beading.) Does anyone have a source for the hooks? I have the handle part somewhere, but a source for that would probably be good too. Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Woolen underclothing....where to find such fabric
I watch the ads in Sierra Trading Post catalogues. They seem to garner lots of European Woolies. I also found some other sites by googling wool undies. A couple South American sites/Australian were also interesting. Kathleen - Original Message - From: Lavolta Press [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 9:48 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Woolen underclothingwhere to find such fabric Cashmere! I'm quite sensitive to wool next to the skin (senstivity seems to vary a lot with the individual), but usually not pure cashmere. Fran Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming http://www.lavoltapress.com WickedFrau wrote: Any ideas on where to find wool fabric which is really, really soft and not itchy? Thanks, Sg ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
Re the perception of color in these portraits: For you who do dyeing (Natural or otherwise) did the color of dyed textiles of the past change because of exposure to sunlight or was there some chemical element that was not always stable and would mute or even mutate over a period of time. In the present world, I have seen color changes on bolts and even garments that have never seen the light of day go entirely from one color to another. For instance, there is a certain grey from the middle of the 20th C, that seems to change to pink within a 40 yr. span. My daughters pale blue taffeta promgown from the 1990s is now a sort of interesting pale rose. I have a bolt of rayon velvet from the'70s that is presently an interesting shade of lavender. In reference to these portraits under discussion, might the colors on the canvas have changed, or the garments themselves have been 'changeable'? kathleen - Original Message - From: Sue Clemenger [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 11:19 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth Misremembering happens to all of us! g Seriously, though, it could be two different copies--I know that some of the portraits of Elizabeth I (as queen) and her sister, Mary, were done multipe times--there's that great chapter in QEUnlocked that talks about them. So it could be that, especially since so many of our details are similar. And maybe it explains why some of the reproductions seem so pink and others more orange? I don't know about yours--we only had time for the National Gallery of Art (which was on its last day of a Truly Cool Exhibit on Fabric in Portraits), and didn't make it over to the Portrait Gallery. Well, maybe we could have, if I hadn't been making a complete pig of myself in the bookstore. weg I've seen monochrome embroidery done in red in a couple of portraits in my books, and a little of it in the Textile Rooms at the VA. A friend of mine says it's known as morisco work (spelling optional at this time of the evening ;o) I *think* I've got a copy of a painting of Mary I with red embroidery somewhere. I *think.* (sorry...bad case of chocolate cravings paired with knitting fatigue from the Knitting Olympics! LOL!) --Sue p.s. I like your Ghandi quote - Original Message - From: Diana Habra [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 7:45 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth When did you see it in the Portrait Gallery? I was in England in 2002, and saw the painting at Windsor. The dress was screaming pink, no orange to it at all. The forepart and undersleeves are made of a gold pile/cream base cut and voided velvet, although I suspect that the pile, in this case, is gold thread (looks distinctly metallic). --Sue, wondering if there are two of them out there Hmmm...maybe I was mistaken. I know I saw the Princess Mary Tudor portrait while I was there. I thought I saw the Elizabeth one, too. But seeing the Mary Tudor portrait in person was pretty cool because I discovered that her chemise had redwork on the cuffs! I hadn't heard of redwork before then and the photos I had seen of the painting didn't have enough detail to show it. Very cool! Diana www.RenaissanceFabrics.net Everything for the Costumer Become the change you want to see in the world. --Ghandi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: Perception of color, Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth
Thanks for the many responses to my query on color perception and 'mutations'. This has been very interesting to me with examples of both fibers and painting/printing copies. Through the years I have had customers who come armed with a picture from which they expect a costume copy. Trying to tell them that they do not have a 'fair print' for reproduction purposes, especially regarding color, has truly been problematical. If it is a color that was not available for the time period, there is usually fuss and bother. Lately, I do not mind telling them to pick a 'right color' or find someone else to do up their creation. Sigh, Kathleen - Original Message - From: Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 11:39 AM Subject: Re: Perception of color, Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth At 16:01 21/02/2006, you wrote: Fabric dyes vary in their resistance to color change. Some dyes change color, some just fade, some do both. It also depends upon the fabric itself; in my experience cottons and linens tend to hold their colors better than silks. Wools have held their colors well. I had some acetate plaid taffeta that changed color while stored in a dark closet under fairly constant climatic conditions. So synthetics, in my experience, have the worst survival characteristics. Pigments for painting are generally minerals, so the colors have a better chance to survive intact, although where some organic pigments are used, they can fade/change just like fabric. There are some minerals that do change color due to chemical reactions with air, though modern analytic techniques can determine what the original mineral was and restore the proper color. The usual reason for color changes in portraits are the accumulation of dust, soot, etc., on the surface and earlier attempts to protect the painting with varnish, which often darkens with age. According to QEWU The deep pink gown is fashionably cut and the material is described in the records of Edward Vl's collection of pictures the ladye Elizabeth her grace with a booke in her hande her gowne like crymsen clothe of golde with workes. Just o confuse matters you understand. When I was at college we went to see the portraits at Windsor, and this was always referred to as the Pink Princess, which tends to make me think that we all saw it as a pink dress. Suzi Hi, Ah yes, and the purple wheelfarthingale dress i made for Castle Selsø has turned brownish grey :-) Anyway it was a dupioni silk, and they dont hold their colours very long. Dress was exhibited in a room with morning sun. Bjarne Re the perception of color in these portraits: For you who do dyeing (Natural or otherwise) did the color of dyed textiles of the past change because of exposure to sunlight or was there some chemical element that was not always stable and would mute or even mutate over a period of time. In the present world, I have seen color changes on bolts and even garments that have never seen the light of day go entirely from one color to another. For instance, there is a certain grey from the middle of the 20th C, that seems to change to pink within a 40 yr. span. My daughters pale blue taffeta promgown from the 1990s is now a sort of interesting pale rose. I have a bolt of rayon velvet from the'70s that is presently an interesting shade of lavender. In reference to these portraits under discussion, might the colors on the canvas have changed, or the garments themselves have been 'changeable'? kathleen Misremembering happens to all of us! g Seriously, though, it could be two different copies--I know that some of the portraits of Elizabeth I (as queen) and her sister, Mary, were done multipe times--there's that great chapter in QEUnlocked that talks about them. So it could be that, especially since so many of our details are similar. And maybe it explains why some of the reproductions seem so pink and others more orange? I don't know about yours--we only had time for the National Gallery of Art (which was on its last day of a Truly Cool Exhibit on Fabric in Portraits), and didn't make it over to the Portrait Gallery. Well, maybe we could have, if I hadn't been making a complete pig of myself in the bookstore. weg I've seen monochrome embroidery done in red in a couple of portraits in my books, and a little of it in the Textile Rooms at the VA. A friend of mine says it's known as morisco work (spelling optional at this time of the evening ;o) I *think* I've got a copy of a painting of Mary I with red embroidery somewhere. I *think.* (sorry...bad case of chocolate cravings paired with knitting fatigue from the Knitting Olympics! LOL!) When did you see it in the Portrait Gallery? I was in England in 2002, and saw the painting at Windsor. The dress was screaming pink, no orange to it at all. The
Re: [h-cost] Mystery Bag
Or even the 19th C? The overall scrolling of the fleur de lis design with the addition of some beading would place this for me, in the 1870s/80s. Kathleen - Original Message - From: Joan Jurancich [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, February 19, 2006 4:38 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mystery Bag At 01:03 PM 2/19/2006, you wrote: Kathy Page wrote: http://ca.geocities.com/absynthe30/avatars/M91_165.jpg I've looked at dozens of bags in the past two weeks but can't recall that one, sorry. It does look more 17th century (mid-late?) to me than 16th, though. It's metal embroidery, it's symmetrical, there's that stylized scrollwork and leaves... I'm in the process of trying to make one myself. Dawn Could it be 19th century? Part of the Renaissance/medieval revival fashion? Those really heavy tassels look overdone for the 16th-17th century to me. Joan Jurancich [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: FW: [h-cost] modes and manners
One of my more droll findings in etiquitte books (American, late 19th C) is a note that ladies never take off their gloves even at a dinnertable...unless the hostess does!! For the nouveu upper middle class, this advice would speak woe to the idea that one might well ruin many pairs of long white kid gloves attending affairs of someone who really was Not In the Know. Kathleen - Original wwqMessage - From: otsisto [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 4:14 AM Subject: RE: FW: [h-cost] modes and manners -Original Message- This may be etiquette in the U.S. but it is not in court circles in Britain. Manners may well differ in different countries. My comment was an answer to Bjarne according to British habits. Under normal circumstances, most ladies would be wearing gloves, so the actual kiss on the skin of the hand would not happen anyway. Gloves were not taken off when one was introduced to someone. Suzi __ As I said Perhaps and some Please note from the site: Period books of (American) etiquette state that not removing one's gloves by the gentleman is perfectly proper. If your character is European, however, the gentleman would remove the glove from the hand that takes the lady's. This is more 1800s etiquette and from what little I understand of the period, much of both US coasts were fascinated by European etiquette during the 1800s and tried to emulate it. Perhaps I misread Bjarne's email as I do not remember seeing Britain specified. I apologies for the bandwidth in posting the url. I will definitely make sure that I do not make that mistake again. De ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Mystery Bag
Ah, but what I find interesting about this piece besides the outer design is the placement of the tassels...and their possible function. I may be off the wall, but because of the slowness of total vision as the picture came up on my screen, I viewed the tassels attachment as a possibly second set of drawer strings, which would make the pouching double (ie. two compartments). Hmmm Kathleen - Original Message - From: Dawn [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, February 19, 2006 4:03 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mystery Bag Kathy Page wrote: http://ca.geocities.com/absynthe30/avatars/M91_165.jpg I've looked at dozens of bags in the past two weeks but can't recall that one, sorry. It does look more 17th century (mid-late?) to me than 16th, though. It's metal embroidery, it's symmetrical, there's that stylized scrollwork and leaves... I'm in the process of trying to make one myself. Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Victorian Bristish Costume Book
Penny, I saw the 'Men's book yesterday at ABE bookseller. I forget the price but there it was! Kathleen - Original Message - From: Penny Ladnier [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2006 7:11 PM Subject: [h-cost] Victorian Bristish Costume Book I have this book and been working on getting it on my website for the past two years. Even though some of the costumes are not period correct, they are the costumes that people during this time wore to fancy dressed balls, plays, etc. We have about half of the book's descriptions typed. I can't pull the book at this moment to quote from it. But going on memory, it was written or supported by a large costume house in London. When I am working on the book again, I will pull the credits and provide more information. Kathleen once I have the book online, I will loan it to you. This book on eBay is *one* edition of the book and the costumes are for women and children. There were a few editions. I think the last one was published in 1900. I have been looking for the menwear edition of this book for a few years. I found one dealer who had the men's costume book, but he was in England and the price and shipping was more than I had at the time. The price of this book is high. I have seen it extremely high You can find some tattered editions at antique bookstores online. My copy is in good condition. Queen Victoria was fascinated with historically inspired costume balls and a lot of research went behind the costumes worn to them. I have been working on a few articles about these balls. One reason for the balls was to give a boost to the economy of England in the 1840s 1850s. There is a really good article about her balls in an 1980s Costume Society of America's journal Dress. The article goes into more detail about this. Kathleen, your 1868 book, The Corset and the Crinoline, will have three more chapters (5-7) online within a week or so. Watch for the announcements. Penny E. Ladnier Owner, The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Looking for 1850-60 muff pattern
I have some muffs from this period and they are made thus: Make 2 tubes of muslin cut about 13/14 x21, one should be about 2 less than the other.Stitch one end together and make a 3/4 chenille for elastic, and fill with feathers (or you may opt for heavy poly quilt filler)Stitch the open end; make a chenille as in the other end . (you may wish to sew satin facings of about 6 oh each end of the inner bag as the lining might show. Cut and thread 2 pieces of elastic about 10 in the ends Make a second (well, third) tube of fur, chenille, or other fabric of your choice about 1 less than the tube already assembled, and cover the inner piece. Add a handle on one end, of silk braid or rope. Embellish with tassels to taste. Kathleen - Original Message - From: Deredere Galbraith [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, February 17, 2006 6:51 AM Subject: [h-cost] Looking for 1850-60 muff pattern Hi, A friend of mine is looking for a 1850-60 muff pattern. Something like this http://www.gbacg.org/Patterns/forever.htm But I've read that this pattern is discontinued. She really likes the draught-stoppers. Greetings, Deredere ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: Tudor patterns was Tudor rose
If some of my memory serves me right, doesn't fashion history suggest that children were more or less dressed as minies of their elders , especially during this time period? My children's clothing history does not present separate patterns or expectations until the very end of the 18th C. Since most of the pattern companies that have been issuing period dress also have basic children's versions that at least have been sized for smaller frames, putting the pattern pieces next to H-costume pieces and reshape them for the Historical look. I have even been doing this with doll patterns of late and as you know, the Cut is where the history happens. Kathleen - Original Message - From: otsisto [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2006 3:15 PM Subject: [h-cost] Re: Tudor patterns was Tudor rose http://www.sewingcentral.com/cgi-bin/Web_store/web_store.cgi?page=pp.htmlca rt_id=71329_959 Patterns 51 and 52 (need to scroll down) Sorry, for adults but can give an idea of what to look for in making you daughters outfit. I had thought that Margo Anderson was working on some Elizabethan children's patterns for her next major patterns but I guess I was thinking of another history pattern company. Once upon a time I could have sworn that there was a Tudor pattern for girls that with a bit o' tweaking could be very close to period in construction but I can't seem to find it. De ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: Victorian ideas of Renaissance clothing, was Re:[h-cost]italianchilds renaissance dress
I mut look this one up! It might have all those dicey tid-bits that would amuse women at Tea. Kathleen - Original Message - From: Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2006 12:30 AM Subject: Re: Victorian ideas of Renaissance clothing, was Re:[h-cost]italianchilds renaissance dress On Wed, 15 Feb 2006, Lloyd Mitchell wrote: I'd like to see That one...(And who said that Victorians were lacking in a sense of humor... when it came to Dress? Some of the examples I use during my talk on the Victorian view of historic costume come from a book called Fancy Dresses Described, by Ardern Holt, a very popular manual of ideas for costumes for fancy-dress parties. In addition to a large number of historical figures, it gave instructions (and a few illustrations) for how to dress as a deck of cards, a tea set, various flowers, etc. (The historical designs, of course, bore little resemblance to actual period costume of the historical figures.) --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: Victorian ideas of Renaissance clothing, was Re:[h-cost]italianchilds renaissance dress
I often use my 19th C etiquette books, especially Putnam's as an introduction to conversation. Many of them also deal with Correct Fashion, so Fancy Dress will be another topic. Kathleen - Original Message - From: Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2006 10:02 AM Subject: Re: Victorian ideas of Renaissance clothing,was Re:[h-cost]italianchilds renaissance dress On Thu, 16 Feb 2006, Lloyd Mitchell wrote: [about Fancy Dresses Described, by Ardern Holt:] I mut look this one up! It might have all those dicey tid-bits that would amuse women at Tea. I've found it only in rare book rooms, but it was a very popular book (went into five or six editions) so it should be in a sizable number of collections. Don't know what sort of dicey tidbits you're looking for; the entire book is costume descriptions. --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: Victorian ideas of Renaissance clothing, was Re:[h-cost]italianchilds renaissance dress
Just did a quick search with the usual book vendors and my jaw is still flapping! How about $500.00!! Kathleen - Original Message - From: Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2006 10:02 AM Subject: Re: Victorian ideas of Renaissance clothing,was Re:[h-cost]italianchilds renaissance dress On Thu, 16 Feb 2006, Lloyd Mitchell wrote: [about Fancy Dresses Described, by Ardern Holt:] I mut look this one up! It might have all those dicey tid-bits that would amuse women at Tea. I've found it only in rare book rooms, but it was a very popular book (went into five or six editions) so it should be in a sizable number of collections. Don't know what sort of dicey tidbits you're looking for; the entire book is costume descriptions. --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Fiskars scissors/shears- springs replaced
'Twas I, Suzi. This is the first company in a long time that treats me (and you) like a valued customer! Kathleen - Original Message - From: Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2006 10:15 AM Subject: [h-cost] Fiskars scissors/shears- springs replaced Whoever commented that Fiskars sent her replacement springs - thank you so much. They sent me two new springs, one of which my DH fitted, and I am go for cutting again. They really need a professional sharpen, (I tried to cut a pin, and for once I can't sharpen them well enough) but they are still better than the big ones I had to use. Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: Victorian ideas of Renaissance clothing, was Re:[h-cost]italianchilds renaissance dress
You have said it! I use their edition of Braun and Schneider for lots of picture references so I can leave the 19th C edition on the shelf. Now to plot my course re Fancy Dress coming from foreign climes...if I should get it. Will look further for an affordable copy in the US. Got a book on line last fall and it was going to cost four times the win for the Royal Mail. Alas-alack! (Did find another one sometime later) Kathleen - Original Message - From: Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2006 10:32 AM Subject: Re: Victorian ideas of Renaissance clothing,was Re:[h-cost]italianchilds renaissance dress On Thu, 16 Feb 2006, Suzi Clarke wrote: Whooo, that's got more pictures than mine. Good luck bidding, if you decide. I might bid if the price stays like that and nobody else is interested, then sell on my less complete copy. However, I don't want to enter a war with anybody on list, so p[lease let me know. I won't be bidding; I don't really need it, and there are other books I do need more if I had the money to spend. Keep us posted! If ever a book begged for Dover reprint, this is it. The fully illustrated volumes are lovely. (The book grew, and gained more pictures, as the years/editions progressed.) --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] American Civil War Confederate Uniform Pattern
At least for the officer's pattern, any period frock coat pattern will get you started. I think that my latest was from Past Patterns. The carry other Cw patterns (I think) - Original Message - From: Lalah [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2006 3:57 PM Subject: [h-cost] American Civil War Confederate Uniform Pattern I doubt if half the subject showed up, but I wanted to be sure just which civil war (stupid name for a very uncivil action) and which side of the conflict I was researching. I have a multitude of pictures of Confederate uniforms, but would really love to have a decent pattern to start with. I don't need patterns for myself or most women, but have not done enough men's clothing to wing it. Does anyone know of a reasonably accurate pattern? Many thanks, Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender _ Netscape. just the net you need ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: Tudor patterns for children
I would think that would go without saying, as in any age. Especially when fashionable clothing was so involved both to dressing and wearing. I suppose that one reason we have Visual examples at all is that the child would be prepared for the sitting(s) much as children of the 19th/20th C were prepared for photograph sittings. In general, not until candid photography was possible do we get any real vision of what people actually wore in the every day. Kathleen - Original Message - From: otsisto [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2006 3:31 PM Subject: [h-cost] Re: Tudor patterns for children That seems to be the common thought from the portraits. but I have noticed that there are some differences in construction. In Arnold's book the child's opening is at the shoulder. There was a woodprint that I would estimate to be 3 years old with closing in the back like a keyhole neckline with ties at the point. The example just recently posted by Bjarne. Style silhouette are similar to the adults but there is probably a different construction to accommodate the child's body shape and convenience of dressing the child. De -Original Message- If some of my memory serves me right, doesn't fashion history suggest that children were more or less dressed as minies of their elders , especially during this time period? My children's clothing history does not present separate patterns or expectations until the very end of the 18th C. Since most of the pattern companies that have been issuing period dress also have basic children's versions that at least have been sized for smaller frames, putting the pattern pieces next to H-costume pieces and reshape them for the Historical look. I have even been doing this with doll patterns of late and as you know, the Cut is where the history happens. Kathleen - Original Message - From: otsisto [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2006 3:15 PM Subject: [h-cost] Re: Tudor patterns was Tudor rose http://www.sewingcentral.com/cgi-bin/Web_store/web_store.cgi?page=pp.htmlca rt_id=71329_959 Patterns 51 and 52 (need to scroll down) Sorry, for adults but can give an idea of what to look for in making you daughters outfit. I had thought that Margo Anderson was working on some Elizabethan children's patterns for her next major patterns but I guess I was thinking of another history pattern company. Once upon a time I could have sworn that there was a Tudor pattern for girls that with a bit o' tweaking could be very close to period in construction but I can't seem to find it. De ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: Victorian ideas of Renaissance clothing, was Re: [h-cost]italian childs renaissance dress
I have in my collection just such a gown of the '70s that got reshaped and trotted out as QE1! It is indeed a hoot. My very favorite of these can be seen at The Museum of the City of NY: A purple velvet number of the late '70/ early '80s and worn by Mrs. Astor. She went to the party as a Light Bulb!! Her Diamond headdress provided the twinkling lights. Kathleen - Original Message - From: Joan Jurancich [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2006 10:47 AM Subject: Victorian ideas of Renaissance clothing, was Re: [h-cost]italian childs renaissance dress At 02:48 AM 2/15/2006, you wrote: Thats interresting. Its funny they want to keep the edwardian shape even for renaissance. Bjarne - Original Message - From: Kimiko Small [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2006 4:36 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] italian childs renaissance dress At 09:42 AM 2/14/2006, you wrote: Found this, and thoaght some of you might not have seen it yeat. http://www.mfa.org/collections/search_art.asp?coll_keywords=dresssubmit. x=3submit.y=10coll_start=81 Bjarne Thank you Bjarne, I got to playing around with the search engine, and found this interesting gown, from the House of Worth. http://tinyurl.com/92mz4 I found it amusing that they would do a renaissance style gown for the well to do. I could almost see this gown on a friend of faire person, someone who likes to dress up with something that looks kinda right, but isn't. And in purple velvet, it's rather fetching. Kimiko I have a fashion print showing historical outfits for a fancy dress (costume) ball in the 1880s. It's hilarious from a costumer's viewpoint. Imagine Mary Queen of Scots with an 1880s shape. :-D Very funny. Joan Jurancich [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: Victorian ideas of Renaissance clothing, was Re:[h-cost]italian childs renaissance dress
Your day sounds much like mine. The most difficult problem for me has been getting customers to keep to business hours when it comes to the telephone! No, I am not happy to take your call between the hours of 6PM and Am!! Call me when the shop is open. ( And don't show up on a Sunday afternoon and expect that the shop is..or can be open!!) We solved that one by taking off for the day sometime after 9AM and get home maybe after dark. I will take appointments between 9Am and noon on Saturday...if I have to. Funny thing, came the day when I realized that none of the costume shops or suppliers worked aft Noon on Saturday and so I liberated myself. The other problem work related is how easy (or hard not to) let the shop inventory travel into the living quarters.. kathleen - Original Message - From: Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2006 1:27 PM Subject: Re: Victorian ideas of Renaissance clothing, was Re:[h-cost]italian childs renaissance dress At 18:14 15/02/2006, you wrote: I have in my collection just such a gown of the '70s that got reshaped and trotted out as QE1! It is indeed a hoot. My very favorite of these can be seen at The Museum of the City of NY: A purple velvet number of the late '70/ early '80s and worn by Mrs. Astor. She went to the party as a Light Bulb!! Her Diamond headdress provided the twinkling lights. I have a recent purchase of a fashion plate from the 1890's of a Bookworm - it was in German, so it took me a while to fathom out! Suzi Found this, and thoaght some of you might not have seen it yeat. http://www.mfa.org/collections/search_art.asp?coll_keywords=dresssubmit. x=3submit.y=10coll_start=81 I got to playing around with the search engine, and found this interesting gown, from the House of Worth. http://tinyurl.com/92mz4 I found it amusing that they would do a renaissance style gown for the well to do. I could almost see this gown on a friend of faire person, someone who likes to dress up with something that looks kinda right, but isn't. And in purple velvet, it's rather fetching. Kimiko I have a fashion print showing historical outfits for a fancy dress (costume) ball in the 1880s. It's hilarious from a costumer's viewpoint. Imagine Mary Queen of Scots with an 1880s shape. :-D Very funny. Joan Jurancich [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: Victorian ideas of Renaissance clothing, was Re:[h-cost]italian childs renaissance dress
I'd like to see That one...(And who said that Victorians were lacking in a sense of humor... when it came to Dress? Kathleen - Original Message - From: Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2006 1:27 PM Subject: Re: Victorian ideas of Renaissance clothing, was Re:[h-cost]italian childs renaissance dress At 18:14 15/02/2006, you wrote: I have in my collection just such a gown of the '70s that got reshaped and trotted out as QE1! It is indeed a hoot. My very favorite of these can be seen at The Museum of the City of NY: A purple velvet number of the late '70/ early '80s and worn by Mrs. Astor. She went to the party as a Light Bulb!! Her Diamond headdress provided the twinkling lights. I have a recent purchase of a fashion plate from the 1890's of a Bookworm - it was in German, so it took me a while to fathom out! Suzi Found this, and thoaght some of you might not have seen it yeat. http://www.mfa.org/collections/search_art.asp?coll_keywords=dresssubmit. x=3submit.y=10coll_start=81 I got to playing around with the search engine, and found this interesting gown, from the House of Worth. http://tinyurl.com/92mz4 I found it amusing that they would do a renaissance style gown for the well to do. I could almost see this gown on a friend of faire person, someone who likes to dress up with something that looks kinda right, but isn't. And in purple velvet, it's rather fetching. Kimiko I have a fashion print showing historical outfits for a fancy dress (costume) ball in the 1880s. It's hilarious from a costumer's viewpoint. Imagine Mary Queen of Scots with an 1880s shape. :-D Very funny. Joan Jurancich [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Silk Cord for Lacing Purses
Fire Mountain carries a full color range of rat-tail silk cord (and also mouse-tail). I use these braided or twisted together as well as for couching. Dharma carries this also in white and now, black. kathleen - Original Message - From: Julie [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, February 13, 2006 2:31 PM Subject: [h-cost] Silk Cord for Lacing Purses Hi Bjarne I don't know a thing about vendors in Denmark, but I know I went crazy trying to find appropriate cord to fingerloop braid when I made a purse. Check out your beading stores. Silk cord is sold to restring necklaces, especially pearls. I was able to buy spools of silk cord in several different colors...white being one of them. Julie in San Diego - Original Message - Hi, Does any of you know of good suppliers of thick silk cord i can use for the purses i make? Dont mind if it is white, i could dye it. Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Roman women's hairstyles
I have it on the shelf, but it is in the file to discard. Does anyone not know about the R.Courson book I mentioned earlier. He covers hair styles from almost pre-history through most of the twentieth Century. This volume is about 3 thick; the drawings are based on statuary of the ancients through gleanings from pictorial evidences of art and photography. All of the pic's are black and white line renderings of hair style from any of the periods. And it carries a fairly comprehensive bibliography as well as interpretive descriptions . Kathleen - Original Message - From: Catherine Olanich Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, February 10, 2006 11:51 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roman women's hairstyles On Thursday 09 February 2006 4:16 pm, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi, Can anyone point me to a reference for how to dress Roman ladies' hair? I've found a some simple styles, but wasn't there a period when they wore really tall, complicated hairstyles? Oh, and has anyone seen this book: Daring Do's: History of hairstyles by Trasko? Is it any good? I looked through it in a bookstore once. Fewer illustrations than I'd like, and very un-informative text. Moreover, I don't think it had any pictures whatsoever of Roman period styles. Don't waste your money. If you want pictures of Roman ladies' hair styles, there's a nice little section in A.T. Croom's Roman Clothing and Fashion, which is still in print and not too expensive (I think it runs about $35 USD). -- Cathy Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] Physics is like sex; sure, it may give some practical results, but that's not why we do it.--Richard Feynman ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Roman women's hairstyles
I have the makeup book also. The book were given to me by a former director...sort of in his will. I will check my shelf for what might be a digest version that I have acquired. (And thanks for the sp.check..) Also, I think that Cassine-Scott did a fair job in his Greek and Roman handbook for the stage. At least a jumping off point. Kathleen - Original Message - From: Catherine Olanich Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, February 11, 2006 1:02 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Roman women's hairstyles On Saturday 11 February 2006 8:56 am, Lloyd Mitchell wrote: I have it on the shelf, but it is in the file to discard. Does anyone not know about the R.Courson book I mentioned earlier. Yes, I am familiar with Corson's book. However, I believe it's out of print. It's certainly hard to find; after prowling the Internet for awhile I managed to score a copy for $75 USD. That's why I didn't recommend it first to the lady who started this thread. He covers hair styles from almost pre-history through most of the twentieth Century. This volume is about 3 thick; the drawings are based on statuary of the ancients through gleanings from pictorial evidences of art and photography. All of the pic's are black and white line renderings of hair style from any of the periods. And it carries a fairly comprehensive bibliography as well as interpretive descriptions . You are quite right, Kathleen. Corson's book is my basic reference for hairstyles though it's not cheap to obtain. My bet is that it'd be easy enough to find via ILL though. Corson also did a book on the history of makeup which I will eventually track down, time and cost permitting. :-) -- Cathy Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] Physics is like sex; sure, it may give some practical results, but that's not why we do it.--Richard Feynman ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Simplicity's new natural form era gown, opinions?
Based on about 6/8 items in my antique inventory that this garment is trying to emulate, bodices in this decade of the new pattern are always boned...in addition to having the corset boned. The relaxed look would only be seen in the reformed dress (sans corset) and probably never in such a formal garment. The poufffs at the hip seem very contrived; and the shoe topper skirt is showing too much shoe (and horrors! an ankle) it is true that skirts were somewhat shorter in this time period, but I think not for formal attire. My two cents worth, based on real garments that I have seen and inspected... Kathleen - Original Message - From: Elizabeth Walpole [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historic Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 12:26 AM Subject: [h-cost] Simplicity's new natural form era gown, opinions? I was just browsing Simplicity's website (I got a free pattern for submitting a sewing tip to their 'idea exchange') and I found that they have a new historic costume pattern, http://www.simplicity.com/dv1_v4.cfm?design=4244 it looks like a bustle or natural form period gown, they may be trying to cash in on The Phantom of the Opera (though it seems a bit late) as their model does look quite a bit like Emmy Rossum (who played the main character, Christine) although they do already have a version of the costume she wears when she does her solo on stage for the rest of the film she wears typical late 1870s to early 1880s outfits. Anyway, onto my point does anybody have an opinion on how authentic this is and whether any inauthentic parts would be fixable? The bodice doesn't look too bad it's got 2 darts at the front and princess seams at the back, it reminds me of a polonaise except for the back drape. It would need fitting to be worn over a corset but otherwise I can't seem to pinpoint a flaw (I admit I don't like the look of the back of the skirt but I don't know if that's because it's inauthentic or I just dislike the style). Then again I've only done a little research into this era, so for those who have more expertise in natural form era outfits what is your opinion? Elizabeth Elizabeth Walpole Canberra Australia ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Simplicity's new natural form era gown, opinions?
Exactly! Kathleen - Original Message - From: Becky [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 9:06 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Simplicity's new natural form era gown, opinions? The actual picture looks as if the side poof is pulled to the front opening but the drawing view does not. I don't know if that is the problem you seek, but that is one difference I see. The ones I've seen like this are pulled more towards the back, not to the front. They form the bustle and butt enhancement with all the poofyness. - Original Message - From: Elizabeth Walpole [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historic Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 12:26 AM Subject: [h-cost] Simplicity's new natural form era gown, opinions? I was just browsing Simplicity's website (I got a free pattern for submitting a sewing tip to their 'idea exchange') and I found that they have a new historic costume pattern, http://www.simplicity.com/dv1_v4.cfm?design=4244 it looks like a bustle or natural form period gown, they may be trying to cash in on The Phantom of the Opera (though it seems a bit late) as their model does look quite a bit like Emmy Rossum (who played the main character, Christine) although they do already have a version of the costume she wears when she does her solo on stage for the rest of the film she wears typical late 1870s to early 1880s outfits. Anyway, onto my point does anybody have an opinion on how authentic this is and whether any inauthentic parts would be fixable? The bodice doesn't look too bad it's got 2 darts at the front and princess seams at the back, it reminds me of a polonaise except for the back drape. It would need fitting to be worn over a corset but otherwise I can't seem to pinpoint a flaw (I admit I don't like the look of the back of the skirt but I don't know if that's because it's inauthentic or I just dislike the style). Then again I've only done a little research into this era, so for those who have more expertise in natural form era outfits what is your opinion? Elizabeth Elizabeth Walpole Canberra Australia ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] pinker alert
Were these Fiscars or look-alikes? One of the advantages of the Fiscar Soft Touch is that there is no finger pinching. I don't remember if they use this design with the scrapbook line. One interesting note re Fiscar service on the ST products, at least, is that you can get replacement springs when they give out (from overwork?).The last time I requested replacements, they sent me a small handful! Would that they would would put a quality spring in to begin with. Any way, the ST line has saved my fingers from calluses. Kathleen - Original Message - From: Dawn [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 11:06 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] pinker alert [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Fiskar, I believe, makes a variety of pinking/dagging scissors--a variety of designs. I don't have any, and I've seen them advertised only in art-supply catalogs, so maybe their usefulness is limited to paper. I'm always tempted to try a pair, but I can't decide among wavy-cut, deep pink, deckled-paper-effect, and the more complicated dags...and can't afford to buy them all! Again: maybe no good for fabricHas anybody tried them? --Ruth Anne Baumgartner I have a pair I bought when I made my wedding invitations, and I didn't think they were all that good on paper. The handles were small and hurt my hands -- though they cut ok -- I found them unpleasant to use. They probably would have worked on fabric when new, but they won't now. And how would you sharpen something like that anyway? Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Roman women's hairstyles
Richard Coursons's Hair book is the best reference I know of. Since you spend time researching examples of Fine Art that you probably can identify his sources as you see them reduces to blackline drawings. Kathleen - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 4:16 PM Subject: [h-cost] Roman women's hairstyles Hi, Can anyone point me to a reference for how to dress Roman ladies' hair? I've found a some simple styles, but wasn't there a period when they wore really tall, complicated hairstyles? Oh, and has anyone seen this book: Daring Do's: History of hairstyles by Trasko? Is it any good? Thanks! Tea Rose ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] pinker alert/Fiskars scissors
You are welcome! The first time the problem happened, I sent the shears in for service. The last time, it was the 'clippers'. They not only replaced the spring in the ailing pair but sent along a new pair! (Funny, the clippers never go on sale). Also, the size of the clipper spring is about one turn less than the Shears, so it makes a small difference when you are trying to keep them in service. kathleen .- Original Message - From: Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, February 10, 2006 5:53 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] pinker alert/Fiskars scissors At 21:46 10/02/2006, you wrote: Were these Fiscars or look-alikes? One of the advantages of the Fiscar Soft Touch is that there is no finger pinching. I don't remember if they use this design with the scrapbook line. One interesting note re Fiscar service on the ST products, at least, is that you can get replacement springs when they give out (from overwork?).The last time I requested replacements, they sent me a small handful! Would that they would would put a quality spring in to begin with. Any way, the ST line has saved my fingers from calluses. Kathleen Thanks for the suggestion Kathleen. I inherited my Fiskars Soft Touch third hand and recently broke the spring. Someone is bringing me a new pair from the U.S. as they are so much cheaper. I am too cheap to buy another pair, and I am having to use a pair of Fiskars shears instead - not nearly so easy. So I just wrote to Fiskars UK for a new spring, or somewhere I can get them fixed. Great tip - thanks again. Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] pinker alert
Ah alas, these are for paper Only. I have a friend that uses a rotary cutter that comes with a variety of blades for fancy cuts. Kathleen - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 10:43 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] pinker alert Fiskar, I believe, makes a variety of pinking/dagging scissors--a variety of designs. I don't have any, and I've seen them advertised only in art-supply catalogs, so maybe their usefulness is limited to paper. I'm always tempted to try a pair, but I can't decide among wavy-cut, deep pink, deckled-paper-effect, and the more complicated dags...and can't afford to buy them all! Again: maybe no good for fabricHas anybody tried them? --Ruth Anne Baumgartner scholar gypsy and amateur costumer -Original Message- From: Lavolta Press [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Feb 8, 2006 8:40 PM To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] pinker alert I've been tempted, off and on, to bid on one of those crank models for pinking trimmings (I don't generally like to finish seams that way). That's why I've been reassured to see there's always a good selection on eBay (although I'm sure some of them are rusty and/or dull). What I really want though, is a choice of shapes beyond the standard rather shallow zigzag. Has anyone found a modern or historic tool that really works well for that? Fran Lavolta Press http://.lavoltapress.com Lloyd Mitchell wrote: Thanks Fran, I love the one I got and didn't think of some of the other ways of listing to find one of the same for other people who might like to gain one of these. Kathleen ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Pink, pinkers, pinking
and my 'new' one sure works like new. I was surprised how sharp the cut was.. kathleen - Original Message - From: Carolann Schmitt [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: 'Historical Costume' [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 7:26 PM Subject: RE: [h-cost] Pink, pinkers, pinking As to the old table-mounted rotary pinking machines, does anybody have one that actually works? I do. Works like a charm, but apparently mine was maintained properly. Carolann Schmitt [EMAIL PROTECTED] www.genteelarts.com Ladies Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 2-5, 2006 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Pink, pinkers, pinking
Well, have any of you had a problem using someone else's scissors? It is kid of like a lefty using mine, or me using theirs. Some how, using a person's cutting tool is never quite like using one's own. kathleen - Original Message - From: Martha Kelly [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 6:02 PM Subject: [h-cost] Pink, pinkers, pinking (What I really want though, is a choice of shapes beyond the standard rather shallow zigzag. Has anyone found a modern or historic tool that really works well for that? Fran) I recently bought a lovely reproduction 18th century pinking tool from Dan Brown of Green Man Forge. It was $40. He will resharpen for $10. He can make any shape pinker you want. Here's his web site: http://www.greenmanforge.com/. I wanted to use some pinked edges on my new 18th century patterns for Simplicity. Unfortunately, I couldn't find a cheap alternative that would be readily available. Can't you just imagine people looking at the back of the pattern envelope and seeing that a special-order $40 tool was required! As to the old table-mounted rotary pinking machines, does anybody have one that actually works? Many years ago I was at a huge costume company (now defunct) called Brooks Van Horne. They had several pinking machines and they were a PAIN. They were always dull and full of lint and chewed your seam allowances to heck. Maybe that's because everybody used them and nobody cleaned or sharpened them? Martha ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] pinker alert
Hi all, I forget who it was who was interested in a 19th C Pinker. There is another up on eBay right now. You will find it listed under Sewing tools. This looks to be pretty much the same as the one I found two weeks ago. Kathleen ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] pinker alert
Thanks Fran, I love the one I got and didn't think of some of the other ways of listing to find one of the same for other people who might like to gain one of these. Kathleen - Original Message - From: Lavolta Press [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 5:22 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] pinker alert If you go to ebay's Collectibles/Vintage Sewing category, without going down into Tools, and search on pinking machine as two words (not a phrase), searching for those words in the listings as well as the titles, there are about ten pinking machines are listed. Which is about the usual number for any given day on eBay. I've thought of getting one off and on. Fran Lavolta Press http://www.lavoltapress.com Lloyd Mitchell wrote: Hi all, I forget who it was who was interested in a 19th C Pinker. There is another up on eBay right now. You will find it listed under Sewing tools. This looks to be pretty much the same as the one I found two weeks ago. Kathleen ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] pinker alert
Checking the instructions given here, do note that all of the buy-it-now items are art prints! Kathleen - Original Message - From: Lavolta Press [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 5:22 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] pinker alert If you go to ebay's Collectibles/Vintage Sewing category, without going down into Tools, and search on pinking machine as two words (not a phrase), searching for those words in the listings as well as the titles, there are about ten pinking machines are listed. Which is about the usual number for any given day on eBay. I've thought of getting one off and on. Fran Lavolta Press http://www.lavoltapress.com Lloyd Mitchell wrote: Hi all, I forget who it was who was interested in a 19th C Pinker. There is another up on eBay right now. You will find it listed under Sewing tools. This looks to be pretty much the same as the one I found two weeks ago. Kathleen ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] pinker alert
What I like about the nifty tool that I got is that the edging results on soft cotton is a rather dainty feathered effect, On stiffer fabric, it gives the expected sharp zig-zag- pattern. My present project is mainly h-costume inspiration doll clothing and the results for ruschings is simpler but elegant strips that do not require more ornamentation or time to turn the edges. I have plans for Ordinary costume seam finishing to look forward to. Kathleen - Original Message - From: Lavolta Press [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 8:40 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] pinker alert I've been tempted, off and on, to bid on one of those crank models for pinking trimmings (I don't generally like to finish seams that way). That's why I've been reassured to see there's always a good selection on eBay (although I'm sure some of them are rusty and/or dull). What I really want though, is a choice of shapes beyond the standard rather shallow zigzag. Has anyone found a modern or historic tool that really works well for that? Fran Lavolta Press http://.lavoltapress.com Lloyd Mitchell wrote: Thanks Fran, I love the one I got and didn't think of some of the other ways of listing to find one of the same for other people who might like to gain one of these. Kathleen ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
Also, Piecework did a fine article on 16th C embroideries last year. Gloves from QE2 inventory were part of the presentation. I will look this up later.. Kathleen - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2006 12:46 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures? Aren't there a bunch of close ups of the embroidery and lace on these types of gloves in Fashion in Detail? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
How about QE1 !! KSM - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2006 12:46 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures? Aren't there a bunch of close ups of the embroidery and lace on these types of gloves in Fashion in Detail? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] More eye candy
My book find of the week is What Dolls Wore Before by Florence Theriault. She covers the years 1850-1925 in this volume of luscious real photos of doll costumes. For those of you who have children for whom you do h-costume, this book provides designs and fabric and trim that has been difficult to pin down (well, so to speak,) before. Many of the dolls clothes were also what children were wearing in this period. Next to the Kyoto volume that sparked our imaginations, this book will certainly sit in ready reach for ideas on how to do a more credible rendering. Kathleen, who found this at the Amazon site... ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
The text for this article is built on items of the Burrell Collection, Glascow, Scotland. Kathleen - Original Message - From: Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2006 5:53 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures? At 23:10 07/02/2006, you wrote: There's an article on an early 17th c. hunting set including a pair of gauntlet gloves in Piecework Volume XI, Number 2 (March/April 2003). Melanie Schuessler As far as I know this magazine is not available in the U.K. At least I have never seen it here. Maybe I am looking in the wrong places? Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] mending techniques
I would lean toward mending and leave patches for tears. If you are 'respectable', I think you would not advertise that you are also dirt poor. Somehow, I think illustrators of children's books have contributed to our concepts of how people of the past dealt with worn clothing. I find mending to be the proper way and patches, a quick fix. It is akin to using safteypins in place of lost buttons. Kathleen - Original Message - From: Joy Shillaker [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, February 06, 2006 7:27 AM Subject: [h-cost] mending techniques Hello, I would be very gratefull for advice as to how to sort out my 1670 midwives clothing which I've just retrieved from storage to discover a fair bit of moth damage. The whole set, boddice, and two pleated skirts all wool lined with linen ,the design based on Vermeer's mikmaid has to be remade anyway as I've dropped from english size 20 to a 10. Re-making the kit is no problem but how should I repair the moth holes? I can darn and patch.I have lovely woolen yarn in a matching colour for darning and also scraps of the cloth for patching. Should I use a mix of darns and patches? I'm hoping to make the repairs part of the costume part of my presentation. My character is a respectable midwife, licesnsed by the Bishop, well repected etc etc but not hugely wealthy.Any ideas gratefully recieved. Not downhearted about this as the kit is beggining to look like real clothing as oppossed to a costume, and making kit smaller is easier than making it bigger. sorry about my speelling mistakes. regards Joy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] interpretation of an image
Here's a wild guess. The answer might be cued from the piece of paper in his hand. Since the rest of the people in the scene seem to be laborers, the man in the robe could be what we might now call a foreman of some sort. The part of the garment that has the effect of a yoke appears to me to be separate add-on. There seem to be no gather as we see in later images of the robes that became academic or judicial garb of honor. Kathleen - Original Message - From: Dawn [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 10:26 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] interpretation of an image Kimiko Small wrote: http://www.kismeta.com/diGrasse/Matejko/1470guild.jpg It looks to me to be a scholars gown, with black velvet perhaps for the upper body area, and maybe guards down the front. However, since the shadows are also in the same/similar darker pencil lines, I am not positive if that isn't just to represent shadows as well. It's that upper part I'm concerned about. I don't see yokes in men's clothing this early, and it's been suggested to me that this gown has a yoke. Even as a re-drawing, I'm hesitant to say that's why the top part is darker. I'm thinking it's just been colored badly. Unless someone knows of a real example of a yoked gown from the 1400's Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and casings query
Wouldn't that be too flimsy? Seems to me that the weight of any garment would crush the extension. I have read somewhere (Godey's) that piano wire was one of the reliable wires for making these cages. I have at least three crins of this period and the wire in them is not quite tubular (think 'linguini and not speggitti).It is flexable but is not bent easily. The originals were fiber cased. One I use for contemporary use ad shed most of this covering in it's long history. I recovered it with white florist tape. This allows it to move freely in its traces and retards the rusting of the steel. Another one has had the vertical tapes replaced with drapery header. I found one that was the width of the original and had the neat tracers that accommodated the wire exactly. Kathleen - Original Message - From: Sharon at Collierfam.com [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: 'Historical Costume' [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2006 2:00 AM Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and casings query I'm not sure if it would work, but can you try using the steel in measuring tapes? If it's the right kind, you could maybe get it from the manufacturer. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 8:39 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Re: Cage crinolines: wire/steel hoops and casings query I'd do it the way Suzi suggests too. I've never managed to find the watch spring that the originals were made from, and am no longer sure if it's made in large quantities any more (though if anybody knows otherwise, do let me know!) Though last time I used the narrowest flat steel I could find, and encased it in bone casing that I had, and ordinary cotton twill tape for the verticals, and I hand stitched the hoops in at the intersections, through the casing and the tape. I also made the flounce at the bottom separately and attached it using buttons at regular intervals, so it could be removed for washing (it was for a wedding dress to later be used for re-enactment and so likely to be dragged around a muddy field). Would like to do the 'uber-authenitc' type, but it's one of the many things on my list that I want to make for fun (rather than for customers), that I never seem to find the time for :-( Debs ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] RE: Moda a Firenze
They are Wonderfully reliable! Have been ordering from them for about 10 years! Besides Lacis, they(she) have been offering all the specialty tools and threads, besides books and manuals that anyone could want for all textile arts for a very long time. Lots of personal attention for your wants and wishes. (Unsolicited comments!) Kathleen - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 2:58 PM Subject: [h-cost] RE: Moda a Firenze I bought my copy of _Moda a Firenze_ from Lacis (http://www.lacis.com/) in Berkeley CA, but I have heard they ran out... you could call and see if they got more in, as my info is a month old. Yesterday I noticed that Hedgehog Handworks (http://www.hedgehoghandworks.com/catalog/BKCT6001.shtml) is selling it on line. (I've never ordered from them on-line, so I don't know how reliable they are). You can also order directly from the Museum, but they want payment in Italian currency (and no credit cards) which I found problematic. -sunny ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Protecting wool?
Re the polar fleece, it does not breathe and can trap body moisture on the inside. I am always too warm when I wear a very nice jacket I made. (And of course, it isn't exactly period... Kathleen - Original Message - From: Joan Jurancich [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 4:40 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Protecting wool? At 01:35 PM 2/2/2006, you wrote: Luckily, I'm putting a border of abut 12 inches of black(actually a black and gray plaid) arould the front opening and base of the cloak which will be a little more stain resistant. But I do plan to cut it above the ankles. For the first time I'm going to photo document the whole process, so I'll let you all know when I get pictures and such up on a website. I haven't 100% decided yet, but I may hand sew the thing, given the weight of the wool involved. While I'm at it, does anyone have recommendations for what to line with? I'm trying to decide between linen and light weight polar fleece. This is blanket weight wool, so it will be plenty warm on its own. Has anyone lined a winter cloak in linen? Fur's not really an option for me, so what other historically accurate options do I have? Tayla [snip] The period solution would probably be silk. Joan Jurancich [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] book
Hi all, I just got my copy of Petite Dames du Mode and it is all I had hoped for. It sure is inspiring for attempts of replication of by gone fashion. Also, my small crank pinker is Wonderful. It is about the size of a meat grinder that screws on to the table. There is a thumbnail guide re the spacing of the fabric being pinked. This helps the fabric to self feed as you crank...in the like manner of the early sewing machines. I prepared strips of fabric the other eve to be rusched and ran about 4 yards through the pinker in about 2 min. The fabric I was using was a very soft Egyptian cotton. The edges are somewhat feathery but uniform. Using a stiffer textile, I got the sharp zigzag one would expect. Martha Washington's Robe Anglais is looking very spiffy. Kathleen ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] book
This was a 'by chance' item on e-Bay. I happened to look in on a sellers other items. We have had a discussion of pinkers on the List before. There seem to be some modern repros of tools that will pink out there but they do not seem to be as convenient as this old 19th C. tool proves to be. Kathleen - Original Message - From: Michaela Feudtner [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 4:00 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] book Dear Kathleen, Where did you get this pinker? I would love to buy one... Thanks, Michaela - Original Message - From: Lloyd Mitchell [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: H-Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 8:19 PM Subject: [h-cost] book Hi all, I just got my copy of Petite Dames du Mode and it is all I had hoped for. It sure is inspiring for attempts of replication of by gone fashion. Also, my small crank pinker is Wonderful. It is about the size of a meat grinder that screws on to the table. There is a thumbnail guide re the spacing of the fabric being pinked. This helps the fabric to self feed as you crank...in the like manner of the early sewing machines. I prepared strips of fabric the other eve to be rusched and ran about 4 yards through the pinker in about 2 min. The fabric I was using was a very soft Egyptian cotton. The edges are somewhat feathery but uniform. Using a stiffer textile, I got the sharp zigzag one would expect. Martha Washington's Robe Anglais is looking very spiffy. Kathleen ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Brit patterns
Hope someone can help me with this I am looking for a British pattern site that has patterns for the first quarter of the 19th C. (Jane Austin and company,) Had it once and have lost it. Kathleen ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: Elizabethan Corset Habits was: Gestational Stays
Such a good point, Fran. Besides the issue of body control as a fashion issue, this matter of deformity must certainly weighed heavily in the matter of corsetry in general. I am just remembering that when I had my first child, my mother-in-law asked me on the QT if I had made arrangements for a post-partum girdle. I had no idea what she was talking about. She also was a nurse, and after birthing 6 children, she was convinced that my body would never support the abdomen without a proper foundation garment. I should plan for the future. I have had the opportunity to observe close on the difference between a girdle and a foundation garment. Have also seen the Mother of them all garment to be worn in pregnancy. Awesome! Kathleen - Original Message - From: Lavolta Press [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, January 27, 2006 12:55 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Elizabethan Corset Habits was: Gestational Stays I haven't followed this discussion but, if no one has mentioned this: Up into the Victorian period, one important type of body modification expected of corsets for pre-adults, including swaddling bands and childhood corsets, was to keep the person from developing skeletal deformtities, from becoming crooked. It is true that in the 19th and I think 18th centuries there were anti-corset arguments that childhood corsets actually _made_ the body crooked. But the obsession with developing straight (understandable in periods where things like rickets were more common and there wasn't good medical treatment for people who were not straight) was still there. I think modern diet (including Vitamin D pills), medical technology, and tolerance of the handicapped have made us lose sight of this very important function. Corsets were not all about either a tiny waist or bust support. Fran Lavolta Press http://www.lavoltapress.com What seems to have been forgotten in the argument is that the overall body shape was different. If one wears a corset from a very young age, the body shape is altered, not as drastically as might appear, but altered. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Rubber garments to hide or lose weight
On the rubber garments issue... Does anyone remember the joys of wearing a Platex girdle in the 1950s?My husband to be used to call it body armor. Kathleen - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2006 8:22 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Rubber garments to hide or lose weight I cannot speak for some of the stuff in the original post but I have a couple of bits to add: When I was much younger -- well, not that much for I am still bahh, you'll never believe it -- I used to do odd things like try to keep fit. Part of that was to make arm and head holes in a dry cleaning plastic cover and wear it under my track (sweat) suit while training. I know, I know, I know, there are good reasons not to do this but, hell, it works when done right. As to hiding flab, these days I often work with those mountains of fitness called professional wrestlers. For one popular wrestler who has a second, masked and bodysuited character, I made a neoprene (wetsuit fabric) bodysuit to wear under the costume to thin him in. It works, -C. This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] RE: Gifts for Brits
And the best of all Stretch-Tite. Makes me think of one of my favorite scenes in Fried Green Tomatoes when the would be woman's libber opens the door to greet her husband at night all done up in just plastic... Kathleen - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2006 10:19 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] RE: Gifts for Brits In a message dated 1/26/2006 10:10:44 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I've also heard it called Saran Wrap (another brand name) ** Funny...when I worked for a local theatre group years and years ago, we had this running joke about making costumes out of Saran Wrap. It's cheap! You don't even have to sew it, it just sticks to itself! It clings so things always fit! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Les Petites Dames de Mode
What a wonderful way to record a trip! And with a yoyo (Smile) I will indeed try to find the source re MR. Burbridge that left me with the impression of his demise. I have a vague memory of a 'tribute' being given... I am having waaay too much fun with all my doll kits and the dressing of the ladies and gents as they crawl off the craft table. I will be using my Godey's and Peterson's for the Little Women. Can't wait!! Kathleen - Original Message - From: Penny Ladnier [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2006 1:35 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Les Petites Dames de Mode Kathleen, I am sorry for the confusion. I have not heard if Mr. Burbidge is still with us or not. The exhibit that I worked with him was in 1997 or 98. The exhibit was just before or after we did the first Princess Diana gown exhibit. I have heard the videotape about the dolls is really good. It is amazing to me how detailed he was when making the dolls. Going on memory... I think he said that he made two or three dolls a year. The research he did for each doll was so intense. The dolls are clothed even with the undergarments and each had their own traveling case. My favorite were his bridal dolls. His wife is also a master cake decorator. At the time Mrs. Burbidge had been making cakes for the royals of the world. I met her at a birthday party for a friend. She made my friend's cake. It looked so perfectly decorated that I hated to see it cut. Mrs. Burbidge and I discussing my dabbling in cake decorating. She told me, Don't be upset, the decorations are easy to make. She took me into the kitchen and taught me a few of her tricks. What an honor! The Burbidges are that kind of people... very laid back and love to teach others their crafts. At the time, she was also making a yo-yo quilt. Mrs. Burbidge carried a bag with her full of her circles for yoyos where ever they traveled. She showed me a completed section of the quilt. On the back of each yoyo, she stitched the date and location as to where she made it. She said it was her journal of their travels. Penny E. Ladnier Owner, The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] crimper
Thought someone out there might have the need for a crimping iron. A very nice one is available on ebay...with 5 hours to go. Kathleen ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] another old thread.
One of my gleanings on e-bay this week was a pinking tool. This small crank 19th C. piece sounded very intriguing. Remembering our last discussion of Pinking I decided I needed this . . And I think that there are at least three more up for sale...Also up just now is a number of fluting irons! Kathleen ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] More fantastic figures/dolls
For the 18thC, there a mold for the Beautiful Nyphenberg doll for which I got the greenware before Christmas. She is cleaned for the first firing. I have a neighbor who has a small kiln for the purpose. I have all the paints and stuff to fly with after this initial firing. It is very hard to wait!! In the meantime, back to my Little Women project. A friend from church just gifted me today with a Huge box of vintage and antique scraps...(Something to play with while THE GAME is on this afternoon) Kathleen (from the'Burg) - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, January 22, 2006 12:04 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] More fantastic figures/dolls About 10 or 15 yeas ago, my mother was into doll-making and I was fascinated by the molds out there. There are antique styles to make the parian dolls, mostly late 19th century and forward from there. I was hoping she would find a mold for a mid-century doll that American Civil War reenactors might like. That would be for making repros of dolls that actually existed at a particular time. There are also doll molds suitable for making a fashion doll, not necessarily period techniques, but all kinds of facial features and body shapes. The base clay can be any skin tone, and then the features painted to any preference. Doll artists have their own ways of doing things, and my opinion of what to do for a historically correct look was different than what my mom wanted to do. One mold, Coco, had a head and breastplate with fairly flat mounds, perfect for 18th century. Her legs had shoes molded in, and I wanted the heels carved into a better shape. mom thought they should stay as is, since that was the way the mold was made, but I convinced her to carve them and they look fine. Another doll mold , Isadora, had a torso with a corset molded in. It ended under the bustline, which was a very natural shape - I could only dress her in that Edwardian style with the puffy front to conceal the shape. There are a lot more molds out there now than there were 15 years ago. You can buy the soft, unfired greenware or already cleaned and fired. You may have a local doll club or doll lady who has a kiln and will offer advice or classes. My mother would paint on the fired piece and fire it again, multiple times as necessary. (She has her own kiln). Anyway, if anyone wants a custom-made doll to dress in historic styles, getting the doll may be easier than you think! Just watch out for the little foibles in the molds, and remember that doll artists' idea of perfect for historic is different. :-) Oh, and the Coco mold with the shoes - I also made her to dress in Regency style, and made cloth legs instead of using the ceramic so she could have flat shoes. -Carol ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] fashion dolls again.
I goggoled Tonner Dolls! - Original Message - From: Susan B. Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, January 20, 2006 7:50 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] fashion dolls again. Quoting Lloyd Mitchell [EMAIL PROTECTED]: I just looked at your new dolls. Ok, I missed it -- How do I get to see the pictures of Bjarne's dolls? Susan Hi, I remember we disgussed this topic way back. I finally found a danish importer of the famous Tonner Dolls. I ordered 3 of these. Emme, American Beauty and Matt O'Neill. I was not happy about the horrible doll i made myself, it compleately stopped my wish to make small scale costumes :-) These dolls are fabulous, and i shall make a historical evolution of fashion at my webpage in the future. Must keep this in mind every time i go fabric shopping, to look for something that drapes well in a small scale. Bjarne - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] University of Tennessee Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] attaching feathers to a hat
I sometimes am able to piercing the 'stem' sufficiently to sew them on. When this fails, I encase the 'stem' in a very tight binding of leather or felt and then sew it to the hat. Kathleen - Original Message - From: Dawn [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, January 20, 2006 11:08 AM Subject: [h-cost] attaching feathers to a hat I'm curious, those of you who make or wear hats... how do you keep the feathers on? I've got two purchased hats and it seems the feathers are always sliding out of the hatband, especially when it's windy (which it is constantly here in the midwest). The quill part seems to be so thick that the pressure of the hatband itself isn't enough to hold it, moreso when there's more than one. Is it possible to use pins? I can't see pins going through the thickness of these two hats, or the feathers (without splitting them). Safety pinning to the band is just ugly. Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] fashion dolls again.
This is my month to play with dolls and historical costume! I am working with a variety of doll kits by various designers...two different issues of Little Women, and additions to my Early (US) Presidents by Yield House. They are not as grand as Tonner but will give ample opportunity to strut my stuff. A am trying to use all the correct pattern pieces I use on Historical Costumes and not the simplification of construction in the pattern. In the 12 size, I have been able to use Hunniset and Arnold just as they are drawn! I also have a wonderful lady body that is very shapely and that makes the task so much more pleasant than the usual angular body given with the china!! Kathleen - Original Message - From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, January 20, 2006 12:07 PM Subject: [h-cost] fashion dolls again. Hi, I remember we disgussed this topic way back. I finally found a danish importer of the famous Tonner Dolls. I ordered 3 of these. Emme, American Beauty and Matt O'Neill. I was not happy about the horrible doll i made myself, it compleately stopped my wish to make small scale costumes :-) These dolls are fabulous, and i shall make a historical evolution of fashion at my webpage in the future. Must keep this in mind every time i go fabric shopping, to look for something that drapes well in a small scale. Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] fashion dolls again.
I just looked at your new dolls. They should be Wonderful transformed by Historical Costumes! During the Holidays, I found a booth in an antique mall that had odd dolls by Franklin Mint and Ashton-Drake for $10 and $12 each without boxes, but with their tags. I came away with 5!!. The Gene doll is most like yours. The others feature 2 at about 14 dressed for the ballet circa 1830s, and a face-lovely Gibson Girl about 20 who was begging to have someone DO something about her mixed period wedding gown. Any way, I did her a new skirt and added a proper veil and she looks wonderful. That gave me the push to get on with all the dolls I was going to dress or make and dress when I retired. So, I've been sorting all the fabric and trim in the antique part of my accumulation and am off and running. Enjoy! Kathleen - Original Message - From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, January 20, 2006 12:07 PM Subject: [h-cost] fashion dolls again. Hi, I remember we disgussed this topic way back. I finally found a danish importer of the famous Tonner Dolls. I ordered 3 of these. Emme, American Beauty and Matt O'Neill. I was not happy about the horrible doll i made myself, it compleately stopped my wish to make small scale costumes :-) These dolls are fabulous, and i shall make a historical evolution of fashion at my webpage in the future. Must keep this in mind every time i go fabric shopping, to look for something that drapes well in a small scale. Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] knuckle length sleeves - how to?
I am finding this discussion of knuckle length sleeve discussion to be interesting. In other cultures of this same time period or fashion development, you can see a similar extra long sleeve in development. I am thinking of the 'hoof' cuff in northern Asia at the moment. The evolvement of the Mongolian style seems to deal with the same question of cutting the sleeve with cuff and then shaping it to fit arm and hand; or to make the sleeve and add the hoof shape...to line either extension in same or contrasting color and such. Kathleen - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 8:15 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] knuckle length sleeves - how to? In a message dated 1/17/2006 7:26:37 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I would cut the sleeve with a shaped flare at the cuff to go over the hand, not the add on pieces. I like the look better, personally, without that extra seaming. Indeed. And lining the extension so it can be turned up if you want is also an excellent idea. You might want to add some light interfacing from the wrist down. This will keep the part over the hand from crinkling up too much and help hold the shape if you turn it up. BTWI love the look of the over this kind of sleeve. And it is a pain to wearit's supposed to be. Like dragging hems in front, it's one of those signs of leisure. One of those yes I have servants who do everything for me messages. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
