Harry
Sent from my iPhone
> On May 20, 2015, at 10:55, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List
wrote:
>
> Francois
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Hi Joe,
I just adjusted mine from about 13.5" to about 10.5 - 11" and it made a
world of difference in 12 - 15 + Knots winds. The helm was balanced in
calm winds but I was getting more than my share of weather helm in the
heavier stuff, sometimes that was forcing me to have a less aggressive
Hi, A while back I mentioned I that I made some DIY mounts for my new
whisker pole, you can check them out on Flickr here:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/133565480@N04/
The links for the parts used are on the photo descriptions.
Regards,
-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
Hi Curtis,
My boat is different but I was in 18-25 knots with elderly guests (4 in
their mid 70's) a few weeks back. To keep it on the easy side we put 2
reefs on the main and sailed main only while getting out of the marina
area.. As soon as we got clear water, we deployed the genoa (and fur
Hi guys,
Sorry for the belated reply, we were out racin' last nite (Regular Wed
nite stuff) Super light winds again. Came in 1st in class on the water,
will be 2nd on phrf my PB on the less than 5 knots winds.
Anyhow, at my rigger's recommendation we use a small loop at the clew. We
tried
We tried using the topping lift and found it was un-necessary using the
aforementioned technique and it was just one more line to get tangled-up (
It did :-) ) .
Also, we make sure that the cleat on the pole is pointing down / jaws
pointing up. This way it's easier to release the clew end / t
I have 2 B&G Tritons on either side of the companion way and a Zeus 2 at
the helm.
They rock! I have had them for 2 seasons now, No issues. The Triton are
easily customizable, have cool stuff like wind shift / depth graphs over
time, nice wind rose, etc, etc.
The Zeus 2 is da bomb. it wil
This is a good week..
My kids are both @ sailing camp at the lake near my boat we're stating on
Take Five all week. We had to drop-off / pickup the kids everyday and with
club being 30 miles away from home we avoid the 120 miles per day commute.
Pretty fun to be here all week.
As for work,
Hi Edd,
Try to get a hold of David Mocny he's a lister and owns a 37+ on my lake.
I visited his boat last year I'm pretty sure I remember he re-did his and
it looks good. (You can PM me for his phone)
Good luck,
-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
lake Lanier, GA
Message: 10
Date: Sat, 6
Hi Dave,
My 1990 34+ does have the + in the Hin number. It's imprinted on the Hull
that way and it's in the boat's official USCG docs as well (Here:
http://www.st.nmfs.noaa.gov/pls/webpls/cgv_pkg.vessel_id_list )
My Hin is ZCC34+34B090. It did create a little bit of a fuss with the
insura
I can measure / take pictures of mine when I get to the boat next (Should
be this weekend)
Mine appear to be in pristine condition as they are under the dodger side
flaps. (Probably have been protected that way since new)
Regards,
-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
Thanks, I love it.
This will help in my quest to figure out a few possible Wed nite race
course scenarios in advance and plan accordingly..
--Thought I would share this...
-- https://www.windyty.com/?43.580,-73.125,4
-- David F. Risch
-- 1981 40-2
Hi David,
Congrats on getting the 34+. I've owned mine for 3 years and still think I
could not have possibly gotten a better boat for what we do. The promise
is that is gives you plentiful room and comfort at the marina / anchor and
runs like a bat out of he$$ around the cans.. It does just
Rod Rigging. Mine is also original and the boat has been freshwater for
all its life except for 4 years. I discussed the rig with one of the few
(And be most accounts: the best) factory certified Navtec guys in the
southeast (Rick Zern) and his advice was: Have your local guy take a look
at
I have seen that, which is the lawyer approved, blanket cover, we're in
the business of selling you more new stuff statement.
I did ask Rick about that he said: It depends where the boat is used /
how it's used / what conditions it sails or stays in.
If in doubt, have it looked at by a quali
I swore off battery powered drills altogether for reasons of short drill
life..
About 10 years ago I was on my 2nd or 3rd cordless drill needing
replacement (Again) because it was cheaper than replacing the battery when
a pretty beefy 120 volt powered model that was about 1/3rd the price
caug
I also have a 260 or so pieces socket set on board that I bought for a
screaming deal at Lowes' fathers day sale a couple years ago .
Being on a lake, I don't do extended cruising or anything offshore. In
fact more than 50% of my boat's use is drag racing around the cans in club
races where ex
Courvoisier -> Classy fish.
Very funny Don. :-)
Regards,
Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
Subject: Re: Stus-List Pacific Sea stories / Offshore fishing tips?
Message-ID: <494cc7dd-7b95-41ad-9248-570930e94...@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;charset=utf
Here's another option: Instead of paying 125.00 per for rebuild why not
buy brand new ones for 132.00 bucks each?
See here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yanmar-1GM-2GM-3GM-Injector-NEW-Part-728170-53100-FREE-SHIPPING-/151718415253
Mine were sticking / cold start was smoky and sometimes laborious.
Agreed,
That's why I try and prioritize the stuff by "must do" vs "nice to have".
I do my best to get the "must do" well and fairly expeditiously, the rest
is somewhat "maniana" because it's lower on the priority list than racing
/ cruising with the family..
That's in contrast with 4 out of
Cool Stuff,
Some of that becomes clearer with this;
https://www.windyty.com/?38.608,-65.918,6 You can see how the leaders
made short work of the beat off the continental shelf and are now flying
across at 10-14 knots plus on a beam reach enjoying a 16-24 knot
southwesterly..
Isn't this sat
I totally concur..
You want the stuff to perform as designed.. You apply it as prescribed. If
the tetracycline was as effective as claimed, it would be in the paint
from the factory.
BTW, My burnished Trinidad Pro is still pristine (I check it regularly
when we swim) after being constantly i
Brillant! I'm doing that this evening :-)
Both my main and genoa will go up without a winch / go down by gravity.
But easier is better. I've been sort of trying to figure another way to do
it without going up the mast.. Now I know.
BTW, Last year I had my sail guy replace my ruined adjustab
Hi Gary,
I have the 7 inch Zeus 2, and the Triton wind and depth package + one
extra Triton gauge. I have had it for a full year now and It's a
fantastic system. The gauges are very bright and easy to read, I have all
the metrics I can ask for: VMG on waypoint / VMG on wind, Sailsteer
auto
Just about, I'm eagerly waiting for the automatic coffee brewing NMEA 2000
compliant module to come out..
-Francois
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
--> Subject: Re: Stus-List B&G Zeus2
--> Message-ID:
-->
--> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
--> Does it trim your sails to
This looks great. I was thinking about doing the exact same setup on my
34+. The quadrant configuration is identical.
I like that better than cutting the rudder post tube except that I have
read on the Edson site that mounting a hydraulic ram directly to the
quadrant was not recommended.. It s
Hi Nate,
Sounds to me like one of the commutators in the motor is no longer getting
current and that creates a dead spot. I.E your motor is toast.
You can try connecting a good AA battery directly to the motor if you want
to test and know for sure
Here's a good replacement if you or one of
Nothing like the Dance of the Valkyries.. It's Apocalypse Now for my
competition..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zPf_PJlJsJQ
-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
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Hi Brian,
It depends on the boat but on my 34+ (36 LOA and 30.9 LWL) and My setup is
Yanmar 3GM30F / Kanzaki KM3P / 2.61 My theoretical basic hull speed is
a little over 7.00 knots
When I bought the boat in came with a fixed 3 bladed prop RH 15D X 11P
(Probably a Michigan Wheel) installed
I have a Harken mkIII furler. Really simple for me: unfurl Genoa untie figure 8
knot, remove old line, insert new line, tie figure 8 knot, go sailing or furl...
Nothing to remove or unscrew..
François Rivard.
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA.
Sent from IBM Verse
___
Correction.. No need to unfurl. Just untie knot, swap lines, tie new figure 8
knot. . done
Could not be simpler
François
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier GA.
Sent from IBM Verse
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Hi Herold.
Sounds obvious but I'll say it anyway: Have you tried 4 wraps?
I read somewhere that the "Correct" number of turns is 4. On my boat it's
a necessity, when It's blowing, 3 wraps is a waste of time and effort,
they all slip.
4 turns gets it done.
-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take F
Hi Dave,
I want to say it's on the rear bulkhead in the aft sails locker / storage
area accessed via the seats / lids on either side of the helm station. You
would have to actually go down in there and shine a flashlight to make
sure. As part of my wiring project I removed all the sole boards
Hi Ron, if you can't find it locally It's on Amazon and probably a whole
lot cheaper.
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=marine+waste+cap&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Amarine+waste+cap
West has them too .
BTW, I have found many really good deals on Amazon for s
Hi Mike,
My guess is bad contacts on the switch. I am starting there as it is a
cheap and easy fix. Since it's a 25 year old switch that makes sense to
replace anyway. I have noticed that the switch feels 'mushy" and it's
been doing the miss intermittently over the past 2-3 times I've used th
> It's fixed.
> It was either the press-fit connector ( it was pretty corroded / fell apart
> when I disconnected it) , the push button switch, or both. I installed the
> new switch, cleaned all surrounding connections, substituted the connector
> with a proper shrink wrap crimp connector, and
Hi David,
I have a 16D X 12P Martec Elliptec Mk III 2 blades folder (3GM30F) and it
makes 5.8 - 6.2 at 2,850 - 2900 and 6.8 - 7.0 maxed-out (3400 rpm) with a
clean hull . I don't know about it being "the best" prop. but it's
cheap, simple, can easily be found used on eBay for a few hundred b
Hi David,
Another possible option is the Featherstream props.
http://www.featheringpropeller.com/ I looked at those pretty carefully.
They seem to be much like the newer externally adjustable Max props but
for less $$. I think if I needed an offshore cruising prop I would give
them a try.
Hi Rob,
I was told by more than 1 mechanic to be very careful about never
over-filling the oil in my 3GM30F.. In fact they recommended keeping it
between the middle and about 2/3 full level on the stick. The reason for
that is to avoid a run-away engine condition..
Apparently the excess oi
Hi David,
The last inch / tip on the leach. If the tip is pointing to leeward than
the vang is too loose and your spilling wind through the upper triangle of
your sail. You need to tightent it a few inches.
BTW that can be useful when the wind picks-up / your backstay is full on
and you still
Hi David,
By "It" I mean the boom vang if that was not clear. Pulling the vang
closes the leach / takes twist out / flattens the sail.
The last inch / tip on the leach. If the tip is pointing to leeward than
the vang is too loose and your spilling wind through the upper triangle of
your sa
My Zeus2 uses COG from the integrated GPS. I don't have a magnetic
compass feed but do I have TWD, VMG to Wind and Marker et all working The
VMG is calculated using heading info. You have to know where to click
the COG option in the options menu.
You can use the GPS based SOG as well. Th
It applies to close hauled and reaches and running too (The vang is most
needed / effective when the sheets are looser when reaching or running)..
You should relax the vang on a reach or running but you still don't want
to spill the wind on the upper 3rd by having the leach opened -- Unless
you
Hi Dave,
You are correct, there's no additional purchase on the outhaul (There
should be)and the 2 additional sheaves are for reefing.
--> First - outhaul. ?There is a length of SS wire with a thimble at
either end that runs over the middle sheave at the aft end of the boom and
is just coile
Something's up with the ball and socket. They should be perfectly
straight. The bend is very slight that should not be a problem. It'll
straighten right up once you free up the joint and put some tension on it.
Should be fine with loosening them up. Just to be on safe side you might
want
Hello Alex,
I am replacing the cabin lights with this one from Marinebeam:
http://store.marinebeam.com/bayonet-ba15s-15-led-bayonet-mini-tower/ It’s
just bright enough. I tried the 18 and 21 led models too. They’re a bit
much.. The 18 is good as a reading light, the 21 is the master blaster
Hi David,
There is some pull when motoring on mine but I wouldn't call it
significant.. My old autopilot never had issues when motoring, it would
sometimes run out of juice when sailing in stronger winds.. But being on
the lake, I never really motored for more than about 1 hour. I believe
I just bought one those :
http://www.lowes.com/pd_23564-14488-SBQ-3998-CU_0__?productId=3318292 For
less than 10 bucks @ Home Depot
It's impressively made for being this cheap. Has a nice machined aluminum
clamp and machined aluminum (anodized red) for the cap with a built-in
waterproof swi
Hi Josh,
It seems strange, isn't there an overflow / vent chrome cap on the hull
about 1 foot right under each tank filler? Also, don't you have the
"Gardena" control manifold somewhere near your fresh water pressure pump?
With the manifold you should be able to decide which tank gets used
Hi Peter,
You might want to remove your mixing for a look / see. This clogging-up /
carbonizing of the mixing elbow thing is for real. Here's a picture of
mine before replacement compared to the brand new unit a couple weekends
ago : https://www.flickr.com/gp/133565480@N04/230jwA
As you c
Hi, Mike,
If you have a B&G Charplotter you can integrate it with the GoFree Wifi-1
interface. It's not too bad expensive ($200.00) for all it does:
http://www.amazon.com/Lowrance-000-11068-001-WIFI-1-Wireless-Bridge/dp/B00B27EN6C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1442025726&sr=8-2&keywords=gofree+wifi1+
Hi Len,
I re-did mine a couple years and used a multi-step approach that provided
an "As New" look.
I got the trademark enblems / stars for both ends from Holland Marine in
Toronto. Those are actual originals. (http://www.hollandmarine.com/) they
also have the ready made triple stripe in s
Mistress?
Demanding Mistress..
That's Take Five's nickname.
-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ Take Five
Lake Lanier, GA
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Hi, I bought mine on ebay last year. I paid 85-90 bucks shipped. It's a genuine Hitachi 55 or 60 amps fully insulated with the exact same connections / look / mounting as the original Yanmar (I think they are made by Hitachi). I took the opportunity to throw in a new belt as well. It was a plug and
When I blew my diodes, the engine controls charging light came on...
The guy I bought my alternator from is still on Ebay Just search for
Yanmar 3GM30 Alternator on eBay. He's selling them for $120.00 free
shipping for a 55 or 60 amp brand new fully insulated Hitachi. I think
Hitachi is the O
I second Pierre's suggestion
That C&C 36XL in Toronto looks really good.
http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1996/C%26C-36XL-2527557/toronto/Canada#.U_NvE010zmE
As a current owner of a 34+ (Same boat, might have a slightly different
rig)It seems it would fit the bill.
Points like nobody's business,
I was worried about the Internet horror stories on cored hulls too before I
bought my boat. Then I talked to experts who work on boats for a living..
Here's what they said:
1st the likelihood that you get severe delamination is pretty slim. This
spring I had my bottom stripped to the bare gel
Yesterday, it was pretty sporty on the lake with winds in the upper teens,
my son was rushing from the deck to the cockpit and kicked the engine start
key / broke it as he stepped over to come and take the wheel for a
while.. I could not find my spare key so I had to stick the broken half
back
I like the ring / shortened key idea. The pull switch is also a good idea, I did try the superglue trick and it did not work for me.
Truth is: I knew the key is in a vulnerable spot and I usually take it out while sailing as I often came close to kicking it myself, especially when the boat is heal
I have never pulled into my slip going forward, my shore power line is not
long enough to reach..
The very 1st time ever I docked a keel boat (or any inboard boat for that
mater ) I backed it into its slip (U shaped slip) . That was the day of my
sea trial 24 hrs before I signed a big check...
I
Good am all,
We had another great weekend on the boat and I finally confirmed that my
fresh water pump is the culprit on the leak I've had for a couple months.
Easier to fix than finding a leak in the hoses or at a joint somewhere..
The Pump is the original Jabsco with diaphragm and plunger
On the Wing and Wing thing I'm with Josh. I don't have a whisker pole and
I discovered that using the method Josh described it's actually pretty easy
to keep the 135% jib full without a pole. I'm on a lake without swells so
a preventer is not really needed, just keeping a close eye on the sails
I agree with the jibe preventer comments..
Accidental jibes can get scary
So far I only ran down wind on very light wind days and for short
distances.. As per my prior comment I'm a believer in beam / broad
reach / gybing instead of running.. So my danger was minimized.
But, I'm glad you
When it's really windy, it depends..
If I'm just out cruising with the family most of the time we just do what I
call a "Chicken jibe": Do a regular in the wind tack but go 270 degrees.
No fuss, no muss no matter how hard it's blowin' not pretty but not scary
either.
If I'm racing or feel like
This is what I'm planning on doing for cockpit speakers:
http://www.parts-express.com/tectonic-elements-teax32c30-4-b-32mm-balanced-exciter-4-ohms--297-224
No cutting fiberglass, no disintegrating cones. No waterproofing issues It
drives the surface it's mounted on as a cone. Look it up in You
This is what I was refering to earlier:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MtyRW3KCbxQ
Perhaps the guy is even a lister?
As far as you can tell from a phoen type recording it seems to sounds
pretty good, since fiberglass is stiff the highs and mids come through
pretty clearly. The bass soun
Hi Y'all,
I've been talking about my sailing adventures to my young co-worker friend from Toronto and he's interested in crewing.
On our lake the clubs have "associate membership" to allow folks without boats to be members. This way they are able to access the "crew wanted" side of the club websit
I cruise and race a 34+ (AKA 34/36, 36XL, 34/36 XL)
Due to it's relatively new design, it's very roomy for it's size: King
size berth in the aft stateroom, + normal person sized twin bed in the
salon + normal person sized v_berth + separate shower stall. And so far,
it's a killer around the
My autopilot is a older Navico unit (WheelPilot). The problem on mine is the belt jumping off the guides. It's all worn-out.
You might want to consider taking the drive / belt / pulley unit apart and see if it being off-quilter might cause a jam which would explain your breaker tripping issue.
It'
I would just go ahead and pay to un-step the mast.
I was all worried about that before doing it last spring. It took 10
minutes of taping the rod threads (To mark the turnbuckle position
adjustment), 10 minutes for 'Stumpy' to pick it up with the travel lift
and set it down on saw horses (
I'm in the same boat (Pun intended)
The kids dig it, every one except the dog and my wife loves to hang out on
the rail when the wind pipes up. No matter how much I tell my wife that
the lake winds and little chop are not even close to being a challenge for
a boat that was meant for offshore
I'll let you guys know how the lessons help..
Racing did not help, she clammed-up even worse for fear that she'd screw
something up. Even if on that particular race, everything that could be
screwed-up was already taken care of so no one really cared. No amount of
screwing-up was going to make
Sounds like a setup for a very long list of things to fix to do it right. I'd be extremely weary of the engine among other things..
It would certainly take a very extensive survey..
Beautiful boat, but many things on it tend to be big and pricey..
That long out of commission, I would not pay a dim
Sounds like a setup for a very long list of things to fix to do it right.
I'd be extremely weary of the engine among other things..
It would certainly take a very extensive survey..
That long out of commission, I would not pay a dime over 45K. It sounds
like it will realistically take an easy
Hi David,
As another data point / alternative:
All my halyards have been replaced with New England Ropes Sta-Set at some
point. I just replaced a couple spin halyards and used Sta-Set again as
per my riggers' recommendation. According to my rigger the sheaves on our
boats are 'Hybrid sheaves"
Them are some hard core French dudes !
http://cottagelife.com/95466/environment/water-shorelines/watch-these-lighthouse-keepers-risk-their-lives-to-switch-shifts
Regards
François Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA___
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Hi David,
I have the wing keel and we saw the same issue on starboard side while
doing the bottom job this spring. It was about 3/4 of the depth of the
keel if I remember right and couple drops worth, maybe a teaspoon or 2.
The guy helping me with stripping the upteen coats of bottom paint
The split backstay is a tried and true, very effective solution.We have an OEM Split backstay on our 36 ft 34+ and it has no problem leaning back the 52ft double spreader telephone pole of a masthead rig we have. We checked it and it moves the mast head a good 4-6 inches. The setup has 2 triple b
When I got the boat it had a Rule automatic pump that determined if there
was water by running on occasion and measuring if there is a resistance to
turn the impeller.. While it sounds smart in theory, in practice the
impeller gets gooked-up with normal bilge crap and gets hard to turn
whet
That is a cool upgrade and a super nice install.. As an alternative has anyone experimented with an ATN Tacker and Spinnaker Sleave? I understand that you'd loose some performance with the Tacker but it seems like it would be worth a try, it's pretty cheap and easy. I'm definitely getting both a
Thanks for all the advice on the sock and Tacker.For us in Ga it's sunny and mid -high 60's all weekend. We have regattas both in Saturday and Sunday (It's just getting good here) the fall season racing series are revving-upWe're planning on going to an Airshow on Saturday and racing Sunday. The
I totally agree with Chuck.
This is not a sailing movie, it's full of holes and convenient omissions
like:
- No EPIRB, yet had a sophisticated life raft,
- No backup waterproof VHF radio ,main VHF not water proof, no GPS, no
AIS.
- Leaves the companion way open in a heavy storm
- Aimlessly dr
We had a nothing short of spectacular day on Saturday with winds in the
18-25 range and 75 degrees sunny / dry weather. The wind was coming from
the NW at an angle good to go the length of the lake on a beat in 2 tacks
and cruise back home 7-8 knots all the way down.
We went to a really good ai
You get what you pay for..
If you choose wisely it's not just the certification, it's the overall
construction and performance. After careful consideration I bought this
one:
http://www.miseagroup.com/solutions/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_5_7&products_id=23&zenid=va2a254cabmkjgrs
The Rob Ball designed 34+ / XL / R series have a flat surface on the
bottom between the leading edge of the keel and the stem. The folklore
says it's supposed to be a planing section to help support nose when
running the Spin and keep the bow from "diggin'in" / surf the backside of
bigger
I use blue Locktite on pretty much everything. In addition to keep nuts
from getting loose due to vibration or whatever, it's an excellent
anti-seize agent. I have been using it on everything from vibrating high
powered R/C planes / helicopters / cars, to my Mustang Time Trials car, to
everythin
d a John Roy on board for a race
and even then I don't recall surfing.
Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.
On 2014/11/03 12:21 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List wrote:
The Rob Ball designed 34+ / XL / R series have a flat surface
on the bottom
And own a Laser or have access to a cheap one..
Check this out: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QIC1jlFIjtg
They are called "Glide Free Foils" http://www.glidefree.com.au/ (Bring a
credit card with a good limit) :-)
Regards
Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, Georgia_
Same here.
Anyone wants a sailing fix in the winter and happen to come to the Atlanta
Ga area let me know in advance and I'll do my best to make it happen.
As an example of winter sailing here: I'm off all next week and going
sailing Monday / Tuesday. Cloudy Monday / sunny Tuesday with w
I'm surprised no one mentioned the Caframo heaters.. Extremely well made
in Canada and specifically designed to protect your boat in the winter with
a 'No Freeze" setting designed to keep it just warm enough / not burn too
much electricity.
http://www.starmarinedepot.com/caframo-true-north-delu
Hi David, I'm with Josh on this.
We had ours taken to the gelcoat last spring as well (Apparently the 1st
time ever on my boat..) it had the original old style tar looking barrier
coat stuff which had peeled off in multiple places.. The only sign of a
possible blister was one little pin-pri
Here's a great write-up on the new C&C 30 hot stuff racer:
http://sailingmagazine.net/article-1560-ready-for-take-off.html?current_page=1
Who knows? One of these days I might win the lottery or something / get
one of those and show the Melges / Tiger boys how it's done :-)
PS I loved Dennis' "
Hi Mike,
I'm not an expert on the 38-3 but you mentioned "Heavy weather Helm" and
not 'Excessive Heel" Another (Free) thing you might want to consider is
tuning your rig. If you have excessive weather helm it could be an
indication that you simply have too much rake on our mast.. A (fairly)
Here's another one on heavier winds: Reef 1st or Furl 1st?
Up 'till a few weeks back, when the boat gets over-powered I typically
furl long before I reef because it's so much easier + it's quick to
un-furl when going on a reach. But then I watched the "in port" race with
the Volvo 'round th
Thanks a bunch guys, Interesting comments.
I'll definitely have to experiment with that in the up-coming weeks as
this is a good time of year for stronger winds.
On my jib: It's a heavy Dacron Haarstick 135 ("CRUISER" printed on the
bag) with a foam luff. It appears to be designed to be fur
On the civilian GPS precision capabilities.
Not to overkill the subject but I use a GPS based telemetry system for lap
times and analysis in my track car. The system uses WAAS, 10 HZ refresh
rate, and superimposes Google maps pictures of the track with the GPS
calculated car trajectory. Yo
Using additives did improve my engine performance.
When I bought the boat the engine was reluctant to start / smoked on the
initial start of the weekend then always fired immediately for the reminder
of the cruise. I was told that it was likely related to sticking injectors
and adding fresh fuel
Ok, so I'm biased but at the risk of stating the obvious.. How about a 34
+, 34/36, 37+, 37/40 ?
French boats like large aft Stateroom / Lounge on the U settee in the
salon - Large port lights / C&C Quality
As another bonus they smoke the compartively sized French boats on the
racecourse
You boys following the Volvo Ocean Race coverage on Youtube? The boats are impressive 25 + knots boat speed capable monohulls. Very professional coverage and the playlists make it easy /convenient. There are many cameras on the boats, helicopter shots, live interviews @ sea.., charming host, the
Interesting, If already have one or could find a donor boat cheap you build
very your own spanking brand new C&C 30 for peanuts. Heck of a project.
Regards
-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, Georgia___
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