On 02/06/2014 11:48 PM, Pete Matos wrote:
> My question is if I wanted to switch back to 2.5.3
> stable release how big of a pain in the ass is that gonna be LOL.
One way is to install all the prerequisites to build from
source, and
then build a run-in-place version from source. This allows you
He did install from a live cd. But I then upgraded him to a 2.6 version
because I was planning on using remap for his toolchanger and I hasn't had
any issues with the 2.6 I was using on my own machine. He might be better
off just updating to the latest 2.6.
On Feb 7, 2014, at 6:38 AM, sam sok
On 2/6/14 22:48 , Pete Matos wrote:
> Hey guys,
> Been having some small problems with my machine in regards to the
> offsets. It has been kind of difficult to get multi tool programs to run
> with the correct offsets. At first I thought it was my misunderstanding of
> the way it works but no
Could you explain you issue? If there is a problem with offsets - it
should be fixed (atleast start a bug tracker...)
Also - didn't you install from the livecd? You could just run the
installed version with your config and see what issue you come up with.
sam
On 02/06/2014 11:48 PM, Pete Mat
Hey guys,
Been having some small problems with my machine in regards to the
offsets. It has been kind of difficult to get multi tool programs to run
with the correct offsets. At first I thought it was my misunderstanding of
the way it works but now it appears it may be some kinda bug in this
v
Hey guys, we are steadily working on our retrofit here and honestly we had
a plan in mind to wire up the machine using some of the existing relays and
contractors with the estop circuit and were moving in that direction. Well
yesterday when I calling Wolf Automation on the phone to discuss a relay
John,
LOL honestly John if you are indeed sitting on the neach in the Turk
caicos islands with three babes and you are thinking about CNC stuff then I
dunno what to tell ya man you got some major problems LOLenjoy it while
you can. Ill have a soda and play a tune for you while drilling and
Pete;
On 2013-02-26, at 10:11 AM, Pete Matos wrote:
> Happiness is working in your own shop rocking out to Evanescence on Pandora
> while installing your brand new motors, drives, and parts for your
> Cincinnati arrow 500 retrofit.that is all. Peace
And, confusion is sitting on the beach in
Happiness is working in your own shop rocking out to Evanescence on Pandora
while installing your brand new motors, drives, and parts for your
Cincinnati arrow 500 retrofit.that is all. Peace
Pete
On Monday, February 18, 2013, Pete Matos wrote:
> John,
>Yes exactly LOLthanks man.pe
John,
Yes exactly LOLthanks man.peace
Pete
On Monday, February 18, 2013, Jon Elson wrote:
> Pete Matos wrote:
>> Besides I like the idea of
>> having the encoder on the spindle and not on the motor somehow it just
>> seems more precise to me that way.
> If there is gearing between moto
Pete Matos wrote:
> Besides I like the idea of
> having the encoder on the spindle and not on the motor somehow it just
> seems more precise to me that way.
If there is gearing between motor and spindle, then this eliminates gear
backlash and
makes sure the encoder gets one pulse/rev no matter w
Sam,
That's what I figured my friend thanks for sharing that information.
It seems like if it worked for you and also for someone else's MAZAK
machine then changes are it will work for me... Besides I like the idea of
having the encoder on the spindle and not on the motor somehow it just
seem
1:1 - must be an optical illusion... We did have one of the encoders go
bad - the shaft to bearing seemed to be glued and just fell apart. We
machined the housing of the encoder to add a bearing right at the timing
pully. The spindle maxes out at 3000rpm. (old machine)
sam
On 2/18/2013 5:40
Sam,
Hey man thanks for the pictures and videos. That setup doesn't look
1-1 is it just an optical illusion or am I missing something? It sure
looks well done this. What is the spindle Max RPM and does it take the
spindle speeds okay? Apparently it does or you'd have r and r'd it by now
that is what we did -
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5vvP4L_hr90&feature=share&list=UUHk52YjGT8HryRYmJKSl-lg
it works well.. It was about the only place we could fit the encoder
without major hacking..
http://electronicsam.com/images/KandT/conversion/spindle/spindletiminggear.JPG
sam
On 02/
On Sun, Feb 17, 2013, at 11:32 PM, Pete Matos wrote:
> Jon,
> That's great man, ya got any pictures or details of it? I'd love to see
> how they did it. Thanks man..peace
>
> Pete
I'm 99% certain that some photos were published on the
web, but a quick search came up empty. I don't have any
Jon,
That's great man, ya got any pictures or details of it? I'd love to see
how they did it. Thanks man..peace
Pete
On Sunday, February 17, 2013, John Kasunich wrote:
>
>
> On Sun, Feb 17, 2013, at 10:57 PM, Pete Matos wrote:
>
>> The third option I could go with would be to buy two timing
On Sun, Feb 17, 2013, at 10:57 PM, Pete Matos wrote:
> The third option I could go with would be to buy two timing pulleys of
> large diameter and machine one to fit over the approx 3" diameter spindle
> body and another of the same diameter that would mount off to the side of
> the spindle body
John,
Right now I am looking at the machines specifics. Basically my machine
has a 6000 rpm spindle and a 12000 rpm motor with a reduction timing belt
drive. I could probably make something like you did and put it behind the
spindle body where the belt is not touching the timing pulley. That w
Pete Matos wrote:
> s
>
> Jon,
> Those sensors are similar to the hall effect ones I have considered for
> it. I am actually looking for input more about the idea of using the single
> aperture shutter wheel on the spindle with linuxcnc as to whether it works
> well or not more than I am
Yeah that's what I figured, still researching some other coupling choices.
I'd say many if not most are probably Chinese anyways. Peace
Pete
On Sunday, February 17, 2013, Todd Zuercher <
zuerc...@embarqmail.com> wrote:
> They are probably perfectly fine, provided they hav
They are probably perfectly fine, provided they have an adequate torque rating.
Since it is a Chinese part of potentially dubious quality. I would suggest
trying to disassemble them and putting red Loc-tite on all the screws. You
really don't want any of these working loose.
- Original
For rigid tapping you want full encoder plus index. Just to keep in mind.
On Feb 17, 2013, at 2:12 PM, Pete Matos wrote:
> DAVE,
>The original setup was a tubular crush sleeve that used a pair of
steel
> collar with setscrews bearing against some steel cylindrical pins to
crush
> the thin
On Sunday 17 February 2013 15:26:18 Jon Elson did opine:
> Pete Matos wrote:
> > I think
> >
> > that may be overcomplicated and have been considering making a slot
> > wheel that would be attached to the spindle body itself and use some
> > leading edge timing with a photointerruptor or other
DAVE,
The original setup was a tubular crush sleeve that used a pair of steel
collar with setscrews bearing against some steel cylindrical pins to crush
the thin walled tube down into the keyways in the screw and motor shaft. If
the new motors shafts were not larger than the existing ones I mig
On Sun, 2013-02-17 at 10:46 -0600, Jon Elson wrote:
> Pete Matos wrote:
> > I think
> > that may be overcomplicated and have been considering making a slot wheel
> > that would be attached to the spindle body itself and use some leading edge
> > timing with a photointerruptor or other sensor to l
Pete Matos wrote:
> I think
> that may be overcomplicated and have been considering making a slot wheel
> that would be attached to the spindle body itself and use some leading edge
> timing with a photointerruptor or other sensor to locate toolchange
> position as well as track spindle speed for
Well fellas, still working dilligently on the wiring diagram for my
retrofit. Have made some decisions and have reconsidered some decisions.
Right now I am thinking about the spindle and the eventual toolchanger
setup. This machine has a 7.5hp motor that is coupled to the spindle with
a dual timi
On 16 Feb 2013, at 20:01, Jon Elson wrote:
> Or, just mount the bearing solidly, place the motor in with no tension, and
> lock the bolts down. This should self-align the motor with the extra
> bearing.
I don't think any of this is necessary, but you could relieve the motor
bearings of all b
Erik Christiansen wrote:
> On 15.02.13 08:08, Stuart Stevenson wrote:
>
>> I don't know the room you have but you could mount a pillow block opposite
>> the motor to support the pulley.
>>
>
> Thanks, Stuart, that's a very appealing idea, given the wussy motor bearing.
>
> If I bored the pi
On 15.02.13 09:02, John Kasunich wrote:
...
> Make the pulleys as big as you have room for - that helps you
> three ways:
>
> 1) the belt tension needed to transmit a given torque goes down
>
> 2) there are more teeth engaged between belt and pulley. That both
> increases the ability of the belt
On 15.02.13 08:08, Stuart Stevenson wrote:
> I don't know the room you have but you could mount a pillow block opposite
> the motor to support the pulley.
Thanks, Stuart, that's a very appealing idea, given the wussy motor bearing.
If I bored the pillow block slightly oversize, then the extra bea
Hi Sam;
I don't that one will have any failure problems. Good job.
Don
On Fri, Feb 15, 2013 at 10:11 PM, Pete Matos wrote:
> Hey man just found some real nice looking low priced couplers on ebay, they
> appear to be the double disk type some of you guys recommended. What do you
> think?? he
Hey man just found some real nice looking low priced couplers on ebay, they
appear to be the double disk type some of you guys recommended. What do you
think?? here is a link...peace
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CNC-19x22mm-Motor-Shaft-Coupler-19mm-to-22mm-Flexible-Couplings-OD-56x64mm-/160904581962?p
Glad to hear it man. You don't have to be fast when you're the big Grizzly
LOLI hope I have as much success with LinuxCNC and Mesa as so many
others have had. Peace
Pete
On Friday, February 15, 2013, sam sokolik wrote:
> No learjet... :)
>
> Working very well - very happy with linuxcnc a
No learjet... :)
Working very well - very happy with linuxcnc and mesa.
sam
On 2/15/2013 1:19 PM, Pete Matos wrote:
> Sam.HOLY SMOKES so you're the Guy with the huge Learjet and
> Trecker millDayum that looks like a huge project. Hows she running for
> you now? I love that massive
Sam.HOLY SMOKES so you're the Guy with the huge Learjet and
Trecker millDayum that looks like a huge project. Hows she running for
you now? I love that massive toolchanger and those big toolholders. That
looked like a seriously competent machine and some real heavy iron. Nice
job m
we made one... (saw blade.) it has been working well - Seems to
handle 40ftlbs.. :)
http://electronicsam.com/images/KandT/conversion/yaxis/adaptfinal1.JPG
http://electronicsam.com/images/KandT/conversion/yaxis/adaptfinal.JPG
http://electronicsam.com/images/KandT/conversion/yaxis/flexplate.
Hi Guys;
I have had terrific results with the double diaphragm couplings.
They don't change velocity during the rotation when misaligned.
They don't create friction when misaligned. Only a very slight torque to
flex the diaphragms.
They are very high torque tolerant. I rammed a small one to the st
Okay guys been working hard on my overall machine wiring diagram in
draftsight. It is looking good and I am liking the ideas you all have
provided me. I have it setup now in a manner that any limit trip is
basically the same as an estop trip. That is the power to the motor drive
portion of the Tec
On Friday 15 February 2013 09:29:23 andy pugh did opine:
> On 15 February 2013 10:08, Erik Christiansen
wrote:
> > The thing is that even a hefty little NEMA23 stepper can come with a
> > radial thrust limit of 15 N, and an axial limit even lower. (I've just
> > bought one from a local CNC goodi
On Friday 15 February 2013 08:44:14 Erik Christiansen did opine:
> On 14.02.13 09:37, dave wrote:
> > Most machines I'm familiar with use either timing belts for relatively
> > low power and gears for high power.
>
> The thing is that even a hefty little NEMA23 stepper can come with a
> radial th
I don't know the room you have but you could mount a pillow block opposite
the motor to support the pulley.
--
dos centavos
--
Free Next-Gen Firewall Hardware Offer
Buy your Sophos next-gen firewall before the end March 2
On Fri, Feb 15, 2013, at 06:41 AM, Erik Christiansen wrote:
> On 15.02.13 10:40, andy pugh wrote:
>
> > I have a number of axes without even any tensioner on the belts (just
> > holes bored at the exact centres) and they seem to work OK. Even the
> > ones with tensioners are not "twang" tight.
On 15.02.13 13:10, andy pugh wrote:
> On 15 February 2013 12:48, Erik Christiansen wrote:
>
> > I only want to use it on a hobbing and dividing gadget, so might get
> > away with belt drive within the 75N limit, but only if I only ever use
> > half of its torque, given your figures. No, that woul
Good Morning Gentleman, may your day be filled with the whirring of CNC
machinery running flawlessly and your projects all be perfectly in spec.
Peace
Pete
On Friday, February 15, 2013, andy pugh wrote:
> On 15 February 2013 12:48, Erik Christiansen
wrote:
>
>> I only want to use it on a
On 15 February 2013 12:48, Erik Christiansen wrote:
> I only want to use it on a hobbing and dividing gadget, so might get
> away with belt drive within the 75N limit, but only if I only ever use
> half of its torque, given your figures. No, that would use up the whole
> allowance in the torque f
On 15.02.13 11:57, andy pugh wrote:
> On 15 February 2013 11:41, Erik Christiansen wrote:
>
> > Thanks. That looks interesting. If I could go straight off the stepper
> > shaft, it'd save a bit of work, and the couplings. But the tiny radial
> > thrust rating on the stepper seems to kill that.
>
On 15 February 2013 11:41, Erik Christiansen wrote:
> Thanks. That looks interesting. If I could go straight off the stepper
> shaft, it'd save a bit of work, and the couplings. But the tiny radial
> thrust rating on the stepper seems to kill that.
200N seems typical, and isn't _that_ tiny.
"To
On 15.02.13 10:40, andy pugh wrote:
> On 15 February 2013 10:08, Erik Christiansen wrote:
>
> > The thing is that even a hefty little NEMA23 stepper can come with a
> > radial thrust limit of 15 N, and an axial limit even lower. (I've just
> > bought one from a local CNC goodies supplier.) There'
On 15 February 2013 10:08, Erik Christiansen wrote:
> The thing is that even a hefty little NEMA23 stepper can come with a
> radial thrust limit of 15 N, and an axial limit even lower. (I've just
> bought one from a local CNC goodies supplier.) There's no way the
> toothed belt pulley could be di
On 14.02.13 09:37, dave wrote:
> Most machines I'm familiar with use either timing belts for relatively
> low power and gears for high power.
The thing is that even a hefty little NEMA23 stepper can come with a
radial thrust limit of 15 N, and an axial limit even lower. (I've just
bought one from
On Thursday 14 February 2013 21:23:03 Pete Matos did opine:
> Steve,
> I have heard that before tho about the helical beam couplers even
> if they are stainless steel it can break. Honestly I never really cared
> for oldhams but do they make ones for this application with differing
> sized bo
Steve Blackmore wrote:
> I won't use helical beam couplings on anything. As said previously -
> they snap all too easily and if you have any backlash, they wind up and
> you may never get the full linear movement if there is any resistance.
>
>
Helical couplings work great on encoders, tachomete
Steve,
I have heard that before tho about the helical beam couplers even if
they are stainless steel it can break. Honestly I never really cared for
oldhams but do they make ones for this application with differing sized
bores and with the ability to stand up to the approx 9.5 NM torque and a
On Thu, 14 Feb 2013 11:53:33 -0500, you wrote:
>I like oldham couplers the best. If you have a run-away, the only thing that
>breaks is the disk. Yes.. they can wear out if you have a bad a major
>misalignment.. but, in general
>they last a long time. The also are easier to install because yo
Google is your friend
I googled "SCR050R-19x22mm" and found this for $57 on fleabay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ZERO-MAX-SC050R-19X22MM-USPP-SC050R19X22MM-/230724445007
- Original Message -
Billy,
I am fairly familiar with the oldham style couplers and they have some
advantages but I was u
On Thursday 14 February 2013 14:14:52 Billy Huddleston did opine:
> My understanding is you use nylon for compliant couplings (ones that
> need a bit of give or backlash) and the Acetal disks which are zero
> backlash. The only way they're not good with backlash is if you have a
> high degree of
Dave,
I believe the encoders are already installed on the rear shaft of the AC
Servo's and his Arrow 500 is designed to be direct drive. No gears, no belts.
The torque and speed of the
Servo's are selected to be matched for 1 to 1 direct drive.
Thanks, Billy
On 02/14/2013 12:37 PM, dave wrot
On Thu, 2013-02-14 at 12:08 -0500, Pete Matos wrote:
> Billy,
>I am fairly familiar with the oldham style couplers and they have some
> advantages but I was under the impression they are less than great in the
> backlash area. I want this machine to be able to transmit the full power
> of thes
The first choice in couplings for servo driven mechanism that demand
zero backlash and high torque capacity always seem to be the
bellows couplings now.Everything else seems to be less desirable.
I have seen them used in some extreme applications - like high speed
index table drives and they
My understanding is you use nylon for compliant couplings (ones that need a bit
of give or backlash) and the Acetal disks which are zero backlash. The only
way they're not good
with backlash is if you have a high degree of offset (unlikely in your machine)
and you have a high amount of ware on
Billy,
I am fairly familiar with the oldham style couplers and they have some
advantages but I was under the impression they are less than great in the
backlash area. I want this machine to be able to transmit the full power
of these motors to the screws and do it without any backlash at
all...
I like oldham couplers the best. If you have a run-away, the only thing that
breaks is the disk. Yes.. they can wear out if you have a bad a major
misalignment.. but, in general
they last a long time. The also are easier to install because you can install
each hub on the shafts and then just
On Thursday 14 February 2013 11:26:47 Pete Matos did opine:
> Dave,
> Honestly I have never heard of those before and I am lost when it
> comes to all of the specifics of couplers for my mill. Those look pretty
> cool but I did not like hearing of the broken split beam ones from that
> other
On 14 February 2013 16:21, Pete Matos wrote:
> Dave,
> Honestly I have never heard of those before and I am lost when it
> comes to all of the specifics of couplers for my mill. Those look pretty
> cool
The Bellows style are also able to accommodate all types of misalignment.
A 2-stage diap
Dave,
Honestly I have never heard of those before and I am lost when it
comes to all of the specifics of couplers for my mill. Those look pretty
cool but I did not like hearing of the broken split beam ones from that
other fellow. I was liking the looks of those. The disk type apparently are
If you can find them at a reasonable price (ebay?)
The stainless steel bellows type couplings are very good even in high
torque applications.
The price is right!
http://store.reuseum.com/Gerwah_AKD30_20mm_Bellows_Coupling_Motor_Coupler_p/11213016B13Store.htm?gclid=CN2uyZ6VtrUCFYs7MgodIQUAEQ
Helical beam are great for lower tourque aplications. But I was having
problems breaking them, and oldhams wear out much to quickly. I havn't had a
flexible ss disk style fail on me (yet) but I have only been using them for
about a year on the machine that was giving me problems breaking the h
Mornin' fellas!!That is all.
Pete
On Thursday, February 14, 2013, Gene Heskett wrote:
> On Thursday 14 February 2013 04:51:03 Erik Christiansen did opine:
>
>> On 13.02.13 16:17, Pete Matos wrote:
>> >I have actually looked at Mcmaster carr as I usually do but did not
>> >see
On Thursday 14 February 2013 04:51:03 Erik Christiansen did opine:
> On 13.02.13 16:17, Pete Matos wrote:
> >I have actually looked at Mcmaster carr as I usually do but did not
> >see
> >
> > what I needed. I actually like the looks of those cut bodied couplers
> > but I am not too sure
On 13.02.13 16:17, Pete Matos wrote:
>I have actually looked at Mcmaster carr as I usually do but did not see
> what I needed. I actually like the looks of those cut bodied couplers but
> I am not too sure of their misalignment ability. A quality oldham in the
> right size should work fine I
On Wednesday 13 February 2013 23:19:10 Pete Matos did opine:
> And you feel like it is also a SAFE option? Peace
>
> Pete
>
Replay the sequence again please. Maybe I missed something.
> On Wed, Feb 13, 2013 at 10:12 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> > On Wednesday 13 February 2013 22:10:56 Pete Mato
On Wednesday 13 February 2013 22:44:21 Przemek Klosowski did opine:
> On Wed, Feb 13, 2013 at 9:59 AM, Stephen Dubovsky
wrote:
> > Disconnecting a motor from drive/vfd isn't the problem. Reconnecting
> > it while its still powered is what typ lets the magic smoke out.
>
> Gene had a good point
On Wed, Feb 13, 2013 at 9:06 PM, Stephen Dubovsky wrote:
> Contactors do not 'bounce' on open. Esp w/ inductive loads;)
OK, so you actually work in power electronics and I am just a
dilletante but my understanding is that when the current flows while
the contact starts to open, the L dI/dt cause
Gene Heskett wrote:
>
>
> And this of course would be ideal since the transistors don't normally have
> a contact bounce. I wasn't aware you were making that Jon, thanks.
>
>
With my first homemade servo amps, I did this with a couple of relays,
and it
worked. When I came up with my PWM serv
And you feel like it is also a SAFE option? Peace
Pete
On Wed, Feb 13, 2013 at 10:12 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> On Wednesday 13 February 2013 22:10:56 Pete Matos did opine:
>
> > Just sitting here thinking out loud. Now that I have found that the
> > machine does have separate limits and home
On Wed, Feb 13, 2013 at 9:59 AM, Stephen Dubovsky wrote:
> Disconnecting a motor from drive/vfd isn't the problem. Reconnecting it
> while its still powered is what typ lets the magic smoke out.
Gene had a good point, that a mechanical contact never goes
monotonically from 'connected' to 'open'
On Wednesday 13 February 2013 22:10:56 Pete Matos did opine:
> Just sitting here thinking out loud. Now that I have found that the
> machine does have separate limits and home switches Connor Billy
> brought up a good point. I can either A: wire the limits into the
> E-stop circuit directly and a
On Wednesday 13 February 2013 21:11:23 Stephen Dubovsky did opine:
> On Wed, Feb 13, 2013 at 11:59 AM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> > My point was, and still is, that relays & switches, unless mercury
> > wetted, are generally dirty at both operations
>
> Contactors do not 'bounce' on open. Esp w/ ind
Just sitting here thinking out loud. Now that I have found that the machine
does have separate limits and home switches Connor Billy brought up a good
point. I can either A: wire the limits into the E-stop circuit directly and
a trip of either will shut down the whole show or B: I can wire the E-st
On Wed, Feb 13, 2013 at 11:59 AM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> My point was, and still is, that relays & switches, unless mercury wetted,
> are generally dirty at both operations
>
Contactors do not 'bounce' on open. Esp w/ inductive loads;)
An enable signal to the drive is NOT safe w/ DC servos. Wh
Andy,
Thanks for that man but again that is a UK company and shipping might
be a killer across the pond although admittedly I have no real idea what it
would actually be. Peace
Pete
On Wednesday, February 13, 2013, andy pugh wrote:
> On 13 February 2013 21:24, Pete Matos wrote:
>> Agreed
Wow guys thanks...I just looked for them one night online and did not find
anything and here I now have several options to investigate. I will contact
them and see what the pricing misery is like LOL...peace
Pete
On Wednesday, February 13, 2013, Todd Zuercher <
zuerc...@emb
On 13 February 2013 21:24, Pete Matos wrote:
> Agreed.actually the fellow Lee in England was able to find exactly the
> right size
Maybe here?
http://www.zappautomation.co.uk/en/flexible-couplings/285-lx7-d55l78-flexible-couplings.html
--
atp
If you can't fix it, you don't own it.
http://w
The part number you would need would be a SC050R(19mmX22mm) and would be rated
at 25Nm
- Original Message -
I prefer a flexible steel disk type coupler over Oldham style.
Something like this is very nice.
http://www.zero-max.com/documents/Zero-Max_ServoClass.pdf
It looks like they have t
Pete,
Try these guys too.. http://www.ruland.com/
On 02/13/2013 05:00 PM, Pete Matos wrote:
> Dave,
> Actually I agree but I made a promise to myself with this retrofit
> that I would do or buy whatever is necessary to ensure a proper working
> reliable machine and arrive at that result w
I prefer a flexible steel disk type coupler over Oldham style.
Something like this is very nice.
http://www.zero-max.com/documents/Zero-Max_ServoClass.pdf
It looks like they have the sizes you'd need.
- Original Message -
Looking at the board from Mesa I have here I think you guys are
Dave,
Actually I agree but I made a promise to myself with this retrofit
that I would do or buy whatever is necessary to ensure a proper working
reliable machine and arrive at that result with entirely bolt on parts
unless it is impossible to purchase a reasonably priced solution somewhere.
On Wed, 2013-02-13 at 16:24 -0500, Pete Matos wrote:
> Agreed.actually the fellow Lee in England was able to find exactly the
> right size but I suppose one could carefully bore it out to 22Would
> much prefer to just buy the right size LOL...
>
> On Wednesday, February 13, 2013, Billy Hud
Agreed.actually the fellow Lee in England was able to find exactly the
right size but I suppose one could carefully bore it out to 22Would
much prefer to just buy the right size LOL...
On Wednesday, February 13, 2013, Billy Huddleston wrote:
> Good thought, but, no combinations on that pa
Well honestly it had this interesting style that is basically a 19mm ID
thin walled tube and then there were two large diameter steel donuts with
large setscrews in them. Basically the setscrews would be made to bear down
on two small cylindrical steel bearings that were then tightened like crazy
u
Good thought, but, no combinations on that page that'll fit his needs. 19mm to
22mm.. Couldn't find a combo..
On 02/13/2013 04:01 PM, andy pugh wrote:
> On 13 February 2013 20:48, Pete Matos wrote:
>> Looking at the board from Mesa I have here I think you guys are right
>> that I should ha
On 13 February 2013 20:48, Pete Matos wrote:
>Looking at the board from Mesa I have here I think you guys are right
> that I should have plenty of IO available and perhaps I should use the
> individual home switches after all. I need also to source some nice zero
> backlash 22mm to 19mm com
What sort of couplers are on it now? I like oldham couplers.. I'm not sure what
style would be best for this size machine...
On 02/13/2013 03:48 PM, Pete Matos wrote:
> Looking at the board from Mesa I have here I think you guys are right
> that I should have plenty of IO available and perha
Looking at the board from Mesa I have here I think you guys are right
that I should have plenty of IO available and perhaps I should use the
individual home switches after all. I need also to source some nice zero
backlash 22mm to 19mm compression style couplers from a USA Source that
are zer
Billy,
SWEET That is allpeace
Pete
On Wednesday, February 13, 2013, Billy Huddleston wrote:
> No, it's me.
>
> Just got back from the Dentist.. So, I'm a little sore in the mouth..
I'll see about ringing you up later tonight.
>
> On the homing.. It is VERY nice to be able to home
No, it's me.
Just got back from the Dentist.. So, I'm a little sore in the mouth.. I'll see
about ringing you up later tonight.
On the homing.. It is VERY nice to be able to home multiple axis at once, and
someone pointed out using the Index in conjunction with the home is even more
accurate
Billy my good man!!
Nice to see you join in this conversation. Why do you say we need
multiple home switch pins actually, if it works the way I am thinking it
should work just fine with a single input no? Remember I LOVE simple and
anything to make wiring neater and easier is the road I'm tea
On Wednesday 13 February 2013 13:57:51 Kent A. Reed did opine:
> On 2/13/2013 11:18 AM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> > Hell, even the reference to Fred & Wilma dates me, I haven't seen a
> > Flintstones program on tv in a good 30 years, so I know there are
> > folks on this list who don't have a clue abo
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