[EVDL] Adding an FM radio to a Tesla

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Thanks Phil
I ordered the Advantec Boombox stereo version since I also like playing my 5000 
44GB songs (Amazon recommended as newer model $60), both got good reviews .

  Turns out the FM dropouts were a result of the vehicle computer disconnecting 
the audio occasionally, reboot fixes (mashing the two balls). 
Best regards Mark
Message: 2
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2024 09:27:22 -0700
From: "(-Phil-)" 
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Adding a FM radio to a Tesla.
Message-ID:
   
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I provided this link 6 days ago, no idea how well it performs, especially
inside the Tesla, which has IR blocking metallic tint in all the glass, so
signals inside the car are weak:  https://amzn.to/3U5lUmq

On Mon, Apr 22, 2024 at 9:25?PM Luke Scharf via EV 
wrote:

> A device like this is what was suggested:
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Transmitter-Receiver-LAICOMEIN-Headphones/dp/B0BDF8S8H4/
> 
> Combine it with something like this:
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/ZHIWHIS-Portable-Transistor-Conference-Batteries/dp/B08JCNMJKF
> 
> Plug it all together, pair it with the car (the car will act as a Bluetooth
> speaker) and you've got a portable system that meets your stated
> requirements.
> 
> A high quality antenna and FM receiver might make it better.
> 
> There may be an integrated unit that does all of this, but it's hard to
> search for because there are so many bluetooth receivers that then transmit
> a low-power FM signal.  I have seen some HAM radio transceivers which can
> play on a Bluetooth speaker. and I own one that has an FM receiver --maybe
> there's one which has both?
> 
> -Luke
> 
> 
> On Fri, Apr 19, 2024 at 10:41?PM Lee Hart via EV 
> wrote:
> 
>>> In the era of streaming any am or fm radio station, radio reception
>> ability is almost mute.
>>> A simple portable radio hooked to a Bluetooth transmitter is all you
>> need, if you can't stream.
>> 
>> Maybe for some people. But I happen to like listening to an actual radio,
>> without having to subscribe to some streaming service.
>> 
>> Most cheap portable radios also have worse sensitivity, selectivity, and
>> fidelity than the radios normally put in cars.
>> 
>> Lee
>> --
>> Excellence does not require perfection. -- Henry James
>> --
>> Lee A. Hart https://www.sunrise-ev.com
>> 
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[EVDL] Playing MP3 USB music in Tesla Y 2021

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Hi Folks
I tried to play a USB flash drive mp3 music in the 4 usc small ports with an 
adapter and no icons showed up.  Asking the great god google - recommended to 
use the USB port inside the glove box that after poking and hoping (got a light 
show and then fart mode working ), then it started playing music after asking 
for a media upgrade (which I ignored).  If I can get it working and playing 
music consistently, won’t it inhibit sentry mode or camera data storage mode 
incase if an accident that uses the flash drive inside the glovebox?  The 
Bluetooth mp3 player works most of the time but has a complicated boot up 
procedure. 

The radio/cd player in my 2013 leaf is av*whole* lot simpler!
Mark in Roanoke Va
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Re: [EVDL] Adding a FM radio to a Tesla

[Mark Hanson via EV]

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[EVDL] Adding a FM radio to a Tesla

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Hi folks
My FM radio drops out occasionally (usually during an “radio moment” on NPR) 
and requires pushing in my 2 balls with the brake peddle for reboot which I 
can’t do while driving (2021 Tesla Y).
Rather than dangling a transistor radio from the rear view mirror (like I did 
in a 1964 Beetle many moons ago), has anyone wired in a FM stereo to the 
existing speakers ?  The wire harness looks hard to work on, not like the cars 
of yesteryear.  Maybe Velcro a Crane radio on the dash?  Last time (today 
driving to DC) I got NPR streaming on my iPhone (but runs up my data $$ on 
Ting). Seems like a $55k car should have a working radio even if missing AM and 
a rear windshield wiper…
Best regards
Mark in Roanoke Va
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Re: [EVDL] NEMA 14-50 Receptacles for EVSE, EV Charging

[Mark Hanson via EV]

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Re: [EVDL] NEMA 14-50 Receptacles for EVSE, EV Charging

[Mark Hanson via EV]

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[EVDL] NEMA 14-50 Receptacles for EVSE, EV Charging

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Hi folks
When reading the 2020 NEC for a master electrician exam, I noticed 210.8(B) 
says that 50A and below must now have a GFCI breaker at the panel that Tesla 
etc says will cause nuisance trips (see article). 625.54 in the EV section 
further states “All receptacles for EV charging shall have GFCI protection.  
The article states that hardwired EVSE gets around this requirement since the 
GFCI is contained but I don’t see that in the code book.  Anyway I have not 
installed GFCI protection on EVSE circuits and don’t know of electricians here 
that have since it causes nuisance trips.  The code looks like using a 60A 
breaker is a loophole to get around this requirement as the Tesla EVSE 
installation manual recommends (and the fact that Teslas can draw up to 48A 
instead if the typical 30A others use).  
Say does anyone know why there’s a 12” cord limit on portable EVSE?  That seems 
silly unless they’re afraid it might lay on the floor in a water puddle. 
Best regards Mark
https://www.seahurst.com/nema-14-50/

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[EVDL] Tesla settles with family

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Thanks Christine
I had two friends that crashed their Tesla 3s while using Auto Pilot or self 
driving on curvy roads that dropped out (one into a tree and the other into a 
building.)  Luckily they survived but since the one computer dropped out, there 
was no accident recording.  You can’t have self driving unless there’s at least 
3 computers voting (incase one gets a glitch and drops out like the Space 
Shuttle did) as noted before on the EVDL .  Tesla tries to blame these 
accidents on the user since the computer stopped recording.  I only use mine on 
straight highways to take the fatigue out of long trips.  It’s nice for that , 
but I turn it off when there’s curves or construction. 
Best regards Mark
Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 8, 2024, at 10:02 PM, CHRISTINE HANSON  wrote:

I thought you might find this of interest.
C.
https://www.cnn.com/2024/04/08/tech/tesla-trial-wrongful-death-walter-huang?cid=ios_app

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[EVDL] Why NEMA 14-50 instead of 6-50 for EV charging? RVs

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Hi folks
It looks like it was from the days when we had to plug our EVs into RV 14/50 
sockets while on the road since that was the only 240Vac level 2 option at the 
time (although the neutral isn’t used for EV charging it certainly is for 
campers). 
https://www.reddit.com/r/electricvehicles/comments/16rvjc6/why_nema_1450_instead_of_650_for_ev_charging/
Best regards
Mark

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[EVDL] 14/50 240V vs 6-50 (3 wire) receptacle for EV charge controllers

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Hi folks
Not to stir up another firestorm again - but I was curious why a 14/50 240V 
socket was chosen for portable EVSE charge controllers when they *don’t* use 
the neutral wire?  The NEMA 6-50 sockets without a neutral would seem more 
appropriate but aren’t used that often and would need a 6-50 to 14/50 adapter.  
The Enphase (microinverters) solar ground mount arrays we traditionally install 
in our volunteer solar club tend to be about 100’ away from the house, so 
running an additional #6 neutral adds cost but of course required by code as we 
do for courtesy 120V 20A or 14/50 50A breakers in the remote combiner box (or 
sub panel breaker box at solar array). 
Best regards 
Mark
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[EVDL] Adding a 14/50 EV courtesy outlet to a solar array

[Mark Hanson via EV]

> 
> Hi Folks
> I was reading in Solar Power World where a California solar installer adds a 
> 14/50 240Vac 50A outlet on the same solar array 50a circuit (for EV 
> charging). We have added 120vac courtesy outlets on our solar array and pass 
> inspection even though NEC says solar must be on a dedicated circuit (also 
> tap off garage circuits that are not dedicated). I couldn’t find anything 
> direct on Google if it’s a code violation to add a 240V outlet like we do a 
> 120V outlet on the same 50A branch circuit?  Does anyone know if this is 
> ok/code compliant?
I assume a local 50A breaker to the 14/50 outlet might be needed since there’s 
two sources, 40A solar plus 50A from panel branch circuit. 
> Best regards Mark
> Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [EVDL] Inverters on EVs for UPS to power mini splits, refrigerators etc, Tesla E-fuse Amps trip point?

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Ps, on the Bolt there’s a negative battery terminal shunt with 4 small sense 
wires coming out. On the Leaf it’s actually on the positive side of the 12V 
battery.  I thought they just float charged the batteries, but apparently more 
sophisticated.  The various Leaf and Bolt discussion lists don’t go into this 
detail, just clamp the inverter across the battery terminals like a gas car.  
When I tested the Bolt last night with an 85amp load for an hour, maybe that 
wasn’t long enough to see any problems (throw vehicle fault codes). 
Best regards 
Mark

Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 19, 2024, at 6:57 PM, Mark Hanson  wrote:

Thanks Phil for the clarification. 
I think I’ll probably just use the simpler Bolt and look again for the negative 
battery shunt to connect the inverter around. 
Best regards 
Mark

Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 19, 2024, at 5:56 PM, (-Phil-)  wrote:


I already explained why you can't:  The LV battery has an amp shunt on it to 
watch the total amount of amp-hours in/out (coulomb counting).  This isn't 
limited to just Teslas either, or even EVs.  Most cars now do this to implement 
a proper 3-stage charging algorithm rather than just waste energy splitting 
excess charge into hydrogen and oxygen and letting the lead-calcium cycle 
recombine them.   It actually saves a lot of wasted energy, and (if implemented 
correctly) extends the life of the LV battery.

On most cars they put the amp shunt on the negative terminal, so as long as you 
ground your inverter PAST this somewhere on the chassis, you are good.  By 
taking power directly out of the battery, it may cause the car to not properly 
charge the LV battery, which can shorten its life (and/or you end up with a 
dead battery!)  

No, the PCS feed is separated by a few amp shunts and banks of MOSFETs.   Tesla 
doesn't use diodes anywhere in that path.  Even the DC-DC converter in the PCS 
is rectified synchronously.   When every mile counts, you don't want wasted 
power as heat. 

So unless you know FOR SURE that you aren't bypassing any battery current 
shunts, you shouldn't connect external loads to the LV battery.   The battery 
isn't the source anyway, it's the DC-DC, so you lose less power and stress out 
your inverter less by picking up these high loads as close to the DC-DC as 
possible.

On Fri, Jan 19, 2024 at 2:36 PM  wrote:
> Thanks Phil for the informative reply.
> 
>  
> 
> I guess I don't understand why you can't pull the 175A(max) directly off the 
> 3/Y easier access 12V battery point like I *can* in the Leaf and Bolt EV? 
> 
>  
> 
> Isn't the PCS (DC-DC) access point the same (electrically like other EVs) or 
> is there a big Schottky isolation diode in between?
> 
>  
> 
> Since I have a Bolt-EV (simpler option), I'll probably just use it - if I get 
> the urge to run my mini-split when the power goes out.  You would think, 
> spending $50K+, Tesla would make this simpler.
> 
>  
> 
> Best Regards,
> 
> Mark
> 
>  
> 
> From: (-Phil-) 
> Sent: Friday, January 19, 2024 4:58 PM
> To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List 
> Cc: markehans...@gmail.com
> Subject: Re: [EVDL] Inverters on EVs for UPS to power mini splits, 
> refrigerators etc, Tesla E-fuse Amps trip point?
> 
>  
> 
> This depends on the Model of course, but on 3/Y you should be able to pull 
> 175a continuously if you shut off most high-current accessories and you pull 
> from the PCS (DC-DC) output line directly.  You cannot pull ANYTHING directly 
> from the LV battery, as it will affect the coulomb-counting and can affect 
> the LV battery lifetime as well as generate alerts that Tesla will know 
> about, and has used as grounds to void the warranty on the PCS.
> 
>  
> 
> The PCS feed terminal is available under the rear-seat lower cushion on the 
> passenger side.   Note that you cannot leave an inverter with a large amount 
> of capacitance connected to this 24/7, as when the car attempts to wake from 
> a deep sleep it can fault when it tries to power this rail up.  A safe/easy 
> way to handle this is install a large Anderson connector here, and then only 
> connect the inverter when needed, and preferably with a precharge.  If you 
> wanted to leave this connected permanently, I would install a contactor that 
> is powered from an accessory feed, with a precharge resistor.
> 
>  
> 
> If you do this and wish to keep the PCS awake 24/7, simply enable sentry 
> mode, making sure "disable at home" is not checked.   I think it will keep 
> the system powered up until about 20% SoC.
> 
>  
> 
> On Fri, Jan 19, 2024 at 1:47 PM Mark E. Hanson via EV  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi Folks,
> 
> 
> 
> I'd like to know what the Tesla 12V current spec is when attaching an
> inverter to the battery.  What's the E-fuse trip point, actual spec?
> 
> 
> 
> On the internet, just anectotal stuff like this:
> 
> https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/current-maximum-on-12v-system.31442/
> 
> 
> 
> 

[EVDL] For UPS "Camping Mode" Test Results | Chevy Bolt EV Forum (using inverter during power outage)

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Hi folks
Scroll to the bottom, looks like the best way to set UPS or camping mode to 
keep the DC DC converter on is to leave the driver side door open, start the 
car, set parking brake, put in neutral, then exit drivers side and close door. 
Next time the door is opened the DC DC converter shuts off.  I left the key fob 
in the car but maybe can take out. Trying in park shuts off after 2 hours, then 
dead 12v battery if running an inverter to power anything during a power 
outage, so best to put in camp mode shifter neutral. 
Best regards 
Mark

Sent from my iPhone

Begin forwarded message:

From: Mark Hanson 
Date: January 19, 2024 at 10:22:47 PM EST
To: Mark Hanson 
Subject: "Camping Mode" Test Results | Chevy Bolt EV Forum


https://www.chevybolt.org/threads/camping-mode-test-results.17722/


Sent from my iPhone


Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [EVDL] Inverters on EVs for UPS to power mini splits, refrigerators etc, Tesla E-fuse Amps trip point?

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Thanks Phil for the clarification. 
I think I’ll probably just use the simpler Bolt and look again for the negative 
battery shunt to connect the inverter around. 
Best regards 
Mark

Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 19, 2024, at 5:56 PM, (-Phil-)  wrote:


I already explained why you can't:  The LV battery has an amp shunt on it to 
watch the total amount of amp-hours in/out (coulomb counting).  This isn't 
limited to just Teslas either, or even EVs.  Most cars now do this to implement 
a proper 3-stage charging algorithm rather than just waste energy splitting 
excess charge into hydrogen and oxygen and letting the lead-calcium cycle 
recombine them.   It actually saves a lot of wasted energy, and (if implemented 
correctly) extends the life of the LV battery.

On most cars they put the amp shunt on the negative terminal, so as long as you 
ground your inverter PAST this somewhere on the chassis, you are good.  By 
taking power directly out of the battery, it may cause the car to not properly 
charge the LV battery, which can shorten its life (and/or you end up with a 
dead battery!)  

No, the PCS feed is separated by a few amp shunts and banks of MOSFETs.   Tesla 
doesn't use diodes anywhere in that path.  Even the DC-DC converter in the PCS 
is rectified synchronously.   When every mile counts, you don't want wasted 
power as heat. 

So unless you know FOR SURE that you aren't bypassing any battery current 
shunts, you shouldn't connect external loads to the LV battery.   The battery 
isn't the source anyway, it's the DC-DC, so you lose less power and stress out 
your inverter less by picking up these high loads as close to the DC-DC as 
possible.

On Fri, Jan 19, 2024 at 2:36 PM  wrote:
> Thanks Phil for the informative reply.
> 
>  
> 
> I guess I don't understand why you can't pull the 175A(max) directly off the 
> 3/Y easier access 12V battery point like I *can* in the Leaf and Bolt EV? 
> 
>  
> 
> Isn't the PCS (DC-DC) access point the same (electrically like other EVs) or 
> is there a big Schottky isolation diode in between?
> 
>  
> 
> Since I have a Bolt-EV (simpler option), I'll probably just use it - if I get 
> the urge to run my mini-split when the power goes out.  You would think, 
> spending $50K+, Tesla would make this simpler.
> 
>  
> 
> Best Regards,
> 
> Mark
> 
>  
> 
> From: (-Phil-) 
> Sent: Friday, January 19, 2024 4:58 PM
> To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List 
> Cc: markehans...@gmail.com
> Subject: Re: [EVDL] Inverters on EVs for UPS to power mini splits, 
> refrigerators etc, Tesla E-fuse Amps trip point?
> 
>  
> 
> This depends on the Model of course, but on 3/Y you should be able to pull 
> 175a continuously if you shut off most high-current accessories and you pull 
> from the PCS (DC-DC) output line directly.  You cannot pull ANYTHING directly 
> from the LV battery, as it will affect the coulomb-counting and can affect 
> the LV battery lifetime as well as generate alerts that Tesla will know 
> about, and has used as grounds to void the warranty on the PCS.
> 
>  
> 
> The PCS feed terminal is available under the rear-seat lower cushion on the 
> passenger side.   Note that you cannot leave an inverter with a large amount 
> of capacitance connected to this 24/7, as when the car attempts to wake from 
> a deep sleep it can fault when it tries to power this rail up.  A safe/easy 
> way to handle this is install a large Anderson connector here, and then only 
> connect the inverter when needed, and preferably with a precharge.  If you 
> wanted to leave this connected permanently, I would install a contactor that 
> is powered from an accessory feed, with a precharge resistor.
> 
>  
> 
> If you do this and wish to keep the PCS awake 24/7, simply enable sentry 
> mode, making sure "disable at home" is not checked.   I think it will keep 
> the system powered up until about 20% SoC.
> 
>  
> 
> On Fri, Jan 19, 2024 at 1:47 PM Mark E. Hanson via EV  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi Folks,
> 
> 
> 
> I'd like to know what the Tesla 12V current spec is when attaching an
> inverter to the battery.  What's the E-fuse trip point, actual spec?
> 
> 
> 
> On the internet, just anectotal stuff like this:
> 
> https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/current-maximum-on-12v-system.31442/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---
> 
> 
> 
> Chevy Bolt works at 1000W:
> 
> I just ran an experiment, hooked a Harbor Fright Centech 2000W cont (really
> 
> 1000W) with a 100A CB (WestMarine) in series with the 1 foot #2 cables
> clamped onto the 12V battery.  I turned on the car with it in Park and left
> the keys on the seat.  Initially I tested with a 8.3A parabolic heater for
> 
> 30 minutes (drawing about 83-90A).  The 12V battery (Dc DC converter output)
> rose to 13.1V, up to 

Re: [EVDL] Tesla preconditioning, regen disabled and charging in cold weather

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Thanks Phil. I had no idea they ran it that hot during charge.  The Tesla guys 
at the stealership were clueless.  
I just have 24V , 8 cells LiFePO4 on a Bergey wind turbine 280ah. 
Best regards 
Mark

Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 18, 2024, at 3:15 PM, (-Phil-)  wrote:


No, if the battery is at 60F it's simply not going to be able to run the 
reactions needed to charge.  The minimum temp for full speed supercharging is 
around 125F.  You can enter service mode and check the battery temps anytime if 
you are curious. (I have a video on service mode: 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iCa4AB2PS_I )  The hotter the pack is, the less 
resistance it will have for supercharging.  You will notice about half-way 
through a session, then the thermal system will begin cooling to keep the temp 
around that 125F range.  (you will hear the fans!)

I personally have a largish 16S array of large-format LiFePO4 (LFP) cells in my 
house for UPS backup, I think it's perfectly ok as long as it was built right 
and has a quality BMS.   However, I would NOT have ternary cells in my house of 
any size other than what's in brand-name small consumer electronics like 
laptops, phones, etc.   I don't recommend keeping things like no-name 
Chinese-made eBike batteries indoors.   Get a shed that's sufficiently away 
from your house to keep these in.


On Thu, Jan 18, 2024 at 12:03 PM Mark Hanson  wrote:
> Thanks Phil for your thoughtful and informative reply (as usual :-)
> 
> I thought about moving my LiFePO4 ups backup batteries outhouse, but based on 
> the freezing no charge issue, I’ll just leave in the basement. 
> 
> With regards to Tesla pre conditioning for fast charge - In the summer though 
> (hard to think of with negative temps), but when 90F or so I would think 
> Tesla would cool the battery down to 60ish F since the fast charging process 
> with 100’s of amps naturally heats up the pack.  I wonder why my Bolt and 
> other EV manufacturers don’t pre-heat/cool the pack prior to fast charging.  
> Maybe like my Bolt it’s limited to 50KW and takes about an hour whereas my 
> Tesla starts at 200KW and takes about 15min to get to the same 80% point :-)
> Stay Charged,
> Mark
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Jan 18, 2024, at 11:51 AM, (-Phil-)  wrote:
> 
> 
> Tesla preconditioning is almost always HEATING the battery, and this is a 
> GOOD thing!
> 
> Apparently what happened in Chicago is there is a large quantity of EV owners 
> that do not have home charging.  Supposedly a high proportion are rideshare 
> operators (Lyft/Uber) that lease EVs to use for work.  This means they 
> operate 100% on public charging.  If you park an EV outside below freezing 
> overnight, the pack will be below freezing in the morning, so if you go to a 
> DCFC station, the car will not be able to charge at all until it first warms 
> the battery over 0C.   But it will draw about 3-8kW from the fast charger to 
> heat the battery, but this can take anywhere from 20 minutes to 2 hours 
> depending on how far below 0C the battery is.   This means someone could be 
> occupying a stall for an inordinate time waiting for charging to actually 
> start.   
> 
> People who have charging at home do not have these problems, as the pack can 
> warm overnight on grid power without occupying a DCFC stall.  Those with 
> garages are in even better situations, as the pack usually doesn't have as 
> much cold soak.
> 
> You absolutely cannot charge ternary lithium batteries below freezing as it 
> will cause anode plating.   This is the same reaction if you attempt to put 
> too much power into a battery than it can take.   So the colder a battery is, 
> the less charge amps it can safely absorb, down to freezing where ANY amps is 
> too much.  Same thing for high SoC.  So if you want to charge a battery 
> fastest, it needs to be hot and discharged.   This is why you see tapering as 
> the SoC comes up during DCFC.
> 
> As a pack gets closer to freezing all charging has to taper, including regen. 
>  Below freezing, there can be no regen.
> 
> The anode plating is not reversible, it causes a permanent loss of capacity.  
> In addition, a cell with a lot of plating damage has a much higher likelihood 
> of separator failure, which can result in thermal runaway and burn your house 
> down!
> 
> No properly engineered BMS will allow this to happen.
> 
> For Tesla 3/Y and 2021+ S/X, they use the drive unit and/or heat pump to heat 
> the battery.   The drive unit inverter can run in a mode, even stationary, 
> that will generate a lot of waste heat.  It makes a recognizable buzzing 
> sound when it's doing this.
> 
> 
> On Thu, Jan 18, 2024 at 8:28 AM Mark Hanson via EV  wrote:
>> Hi Phil etc,
>> When Tesla says pre conditioning the battery prior to a supe

Re: [EVDL] Tesla preconditioning, regen disabled and charging in cold weather

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Thanks Phil for your thoughtful and informative reply (as usual :-)

I thought about moving my LiFePO4 ups backup batteries outhouse, but based on 
the freezing no charge issue, I’ll just leave in the basement. 

With regards to Tesla pre conditioning for fast charge - In the summer though 
(hard to think of with negative temps), but when 90F or so I would think Tesla 
would cool the battery down to 60ish F since the fast charging process with 
100’s of amps naturally heats up the pack.  I wonder why my Bolt and other EV 
manufacturers don’t pre-heat/cool the pack prior to fast charging.  Maybe like 
my Bolt it’s limited to 50KW and takes about an hour whereas my Tesla starts at 
200KW and takes about 15min to get to the same 80% point :-)
Stay Charged,
Mark

Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 18, 2024, at 11:51 AM, (-Phil-)  wrote:


Tesla preconditioning is almost always HEATING the battery, and this is a GOOD 
thing!

Apparently what happened in Chicago is there is a large quantity of EV owners 
that do not have home charging.  Supposedly a high proportion are rideshare 
operators (Lyft/Uber) that lease EVs to use for work.  This means they operate 
100% on public charging.  If you park an EV outside below freezing overnight, 
the pack will be below freezing in the morning, so if you go to a DCFC station, 
the car will not be able to charge at all until it first warms the battery over 
0C.   But it will draw about 3-8kW from the fast charger to heat the battery, 
but this can take anywhere from 20 minutes to 2 hours depending on how far 
below 0C the battery is.   This means someone could be occupying a stall for an 
inordinate time waiting for charging to actually start.   

People who have charging at home do not have these problems, as the pack can 
warm overnight on grid power without occupying a DCFC stall.  Those with 
garages are in even better situations, as the pack usually doesn't have as much 
cold soak.

You absolutely cannot charge ternary lithium batteries below freezing as it 
will cause anode plating.   This is the same reaction if you attempt to put too 
much power into a battery than it can take.   So the colder a battery is, the 
less charge amps it can safely absorb, down to freezing where ANY amps is too 
much.  Same thing for high SoC.  So if you want to charge a battery fastest, it 
needs to be hot and discharged.   This is why you see tapering as the SoC comes 
up during DCFC.

As a pack gets closer to freezing all charging has to taper, including regen.  
Below freezing, there can be no regen.

The anode plating is not reversible, it causes a permanent loss of capacity.  
In addition, a cell with a lot of plating damage has a much higher likelihood 
of separator failure, which can result in thermal runaway and burn your house 
down!

No properly engineered BMS will allow this to happen.

For Tesla 3/Y and 2021+ S/X, they use the drive unit and/or heat pump to heat 
the battery.   The drive unit inverter can run in a mode, even stationary, that 
will generate a lot of waste heat.  It makes a recognizable buzzing sound when 
it's doing this.


On Thu, Jan 18, 2024 at 8:28 AM Mark Hanson via EV  wrote:
> Hi Phil etc,
> When Tesla says pre conditioning the battery prior to a supercharger is it 
> cooling the battery to say 60F since the charging process heats it up?
> 
> Also why does Tesla (and other EVs like my Leaf and Bolt) disable the regen 
> below freezing?  It draws 100s of amps when driving, you think putting back 
> the same would be ok for the battery, coming or going shouldn’t matter?
> 
> NBC News last night said Chicago Tesla drivers had to wait at the 
> Supercharger for an hour or so (wouldn’t allow them to charge till battery 
> warmed up).  I haven’t experienced this at 10F but up there it was 2F.  Is 
> this a real issue or just the news getting it wrong (again).  
> Best regards 
> Mark
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
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[EVDL] Tesla preconditioning, regen disabled and charging in cold weather

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Hi Phil etc,
When Tesla says pre conditioning the battery prior to a supercharger is it 
cooling the battery to say 60F since the charging process heats it up?

Also why does Tesla (and other EVs like my Leaf and Bolt) disable the regen 
below freezing?  It draws 100s of amps when driving, you think putting back the 
same would be ok for the battery, coming or going shouldn’t matter?

NBC News last night said Chicago Tesla drivers had to wait at the Supercharger 
for an hour or so (wouldn’t allow them to charge till battery warmed up).  I 
haven’t experienced this at 10F but up there it was 2F.  Is this a real issue 
or just the news getting it wrong (again).  
Best regards 
Mark

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Re: [EVDL] Running a 1-ton mini-split (12A, 120V) from an EV with 1500W (12V@120A inverter)

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Yes, I tried to get worst case with heat mode at 86F with the outside temp at 
17F, got 6.5A.  In cool mode with less differential I measured 5.1A
Best regards 
Mark

Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 16, 2024, at 7:46 PM, (-Phil-)  wrote:


The power drawn by the heat pump depends on the delta-T (temperature 
differences) and demand (fan speed).

On Tue, Jan 16, 2024 at 4:32 PM Mark Hanson  wrote:
> Thanks Phil
> Sounds like a project :-)
> I also have a Schneider SW4024 that powers the well pump and fridge during a 
> power outage but the LiFePO4 batts are only 7KWh tied to 1200W solar panels 
> and a Bergey XL-1 (1KW rated) but at night in a storm probably only get 5KWh 
> out.  I just measured the 2020 EnergyStar 1ton heat pump at 6.5A 120V (about 
> 26Seer) which is better than I thought.  I have a similar Klimaire that’s 
> 2014 and draws 12A 120V doing the same job (about 17seer).  Maybe just put 
> another log on the fire :-)
> Stay warm ,
> Mark
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Jan 16, 2024, at 6:27 PM, (-Phil-)  wrote:
> 
> 
> I have successfully hooked a Mini-Split (240v) up to a Tesla pack directly.   
> You have to perform an analysis to make sure it can support DC, and there are 
> only a few that can, as most of the indoor-unit fans use AC motors, but there 
> are a few that use BLDC.   You would not be able to do this with a 120v unit 
> unless it's internally using a capacitor doubler (I have seen a few that do 
> this!).
> 
> On Mon, Jan 15, 2024 at 5:58 PM Mark E. Hanson via EV  
> wrote:
>> Hi Folks,
>> 
>> I was reading Otmar's inverter connection to a Tesla-3 and looks like Tesla
>> makes it really difficult to run a 1500W 12V inverter from their EVs.  My
>> Bolt shows 130A available from its DC-DC converter, just clamp the Harbor
>> Fright inverter (have 1500W with 200A inline breaker, short aligator clamps)
>> on the battery & the Leaf appears to be rated about 90A, so probably not
>> enough to run my mini-split at 12A, 120V.   Presently if the power goes out
>> - I just put another log in my wood stove, but thinking it would be nice to
>> run one of my EV's as the 64KWH power source incase the power goes out for
>> awhile.  I have a Bergey wind turbine on LiFePO4 7KWH batteries, but that
>> would only last a few hours running the Pioneer mini-split.  Has anyone done
>> this successfully?  The Bolt has to be *on* in neutral or park with the key
>> in to keep the DC-DC converter alive.  Would rather not have a Kerosun for
>> backup...
>> 
>> Subject: Model 3 Inverter Power Connection - Otmar's Variety Blog
>> 
>> 
>> https://www.cafeelectric.com/blog/2020/06/08/inverter-power-connection-1/ 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Have a renewable energy day,
>> 
>> Mark
>> 
>> Mark E. Hanson
>> 184 Vista Lane
>> Fincastle, VA 24090
>> 540-473-1248 phone & FAX, 540-816-0812 cell
>> REEVA: community service RE & EV project club
>> Website: www.REEVAdiy.org (See Project Gallery)
>> UL Certified PV Installer
>> My RE Circuits: www.EVDL.org/lib/mh 
>> REEVA Demo: http://youtu.be/4kqWn2H-rA0 
>> Fincastle Solar Weather Station
>> 
>> 
>> 
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>> 
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Re: [EVDL] Running a 1-ton mini-split (12A, 120V) from an EV with 1500W (12V@120A inverter)

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Thanks Phil
Sounds like a project :-)
I also have a Schneider SW4024 that powers the well pump and fridge during a 
power outage but the LiFePO4 batts are only 7KWh tied to 1200W solar panels and 
a Bergey XL-1 (1KW rated) but at night in a storm probably only get 5KWh out.  
I just measured the 2020 EnergyStar 1ton heat pump at 6.5A 120V (about 26Seer) 
which is better than I thought.  I have a similar Klimaire that’s 2014 and 
draws 12A 120V doing the same job (about 17seer).  Maybe just put another log 
on the fire :-)
Stay warm ,
Mark

Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 16, 2024, at 6:27 PM, (-Phil-)  wrote:


I have successfully hooked a Mini-Split (240v) up to a Tesla pack directly.   
You have to perform an analysis to make sure it can support DC, and there are 
only a few that can, as most of the indoor-unit fans use AC motors, but there 
are a few that use BLDC.   You would not be able to do this with a 120v unit 
unless it's internally using a capacitor doubler (I have seen a few that do 
this!).

On Mon, Jan 15, 2024 at 5:58 PM Mark E. Hanson via EV  wrote:
> Hi Folks,
> 
> I was reading Otmar's inverter connection to a Tesla-3 and looks like Tesla
> makes it really difficult to run a 1500W 12V inverter from their EVs.  My
> Bolt shows 130A available from its DC-DC converter, just clamp the Harbor
> Fright inverter (have 1500W with 200A inline breaker, short aligator clamps)
> on the battery & the Leaf appears to be rated about 90A, so probably not
> enough to run my mini-split at 12A, 120V.   Presently if the power goes out
> - I just put another log in my wood stove, but thinking it would be nice to
> run one of my EV's as the 64KWH power source incase the power goes out for
> awhile.  I have a Bergey wind turbine on LiFePO4 7KWH batteries, but that
> would only last a few hours running the Pioneer mini-split.  Has anyone done
> this successfully?  The Bolt has to be *on* in neutral or park with the key
> in to keep the DC-DC converter alive.  Would rather not have a Kerosun for
> backup...
> 
> Subject: Model 3 Inverter Power Connection - Otmar's Variety Blog
> 
> 
> https://www.cafeelectric.com/blog/2020/06/08/inverter-power-connection-1/ 
> 
> 
> 
> Have a renewable energy day,
> 
> Mark
> 
> Mark E. Hanson
> 184 Vista Lane
> Fincastle, VA 24090
> 540-473-1248 phone & FAX, 540-816-0812 cell
> REEVA: community service RE & EV project club
> Website: www.REEVAdiy.org (See Project Gallery)
> UL Certified PV Installer
> My RE Circuits: www.EVDL.org/lib/mh 
> REEVA Demo: http://youtu.be/4kqWn2H-rA0 
> Fincastle Solar Weather Station
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [EVDL] Charge to 100% after discharging to 0% for BMS equalization.

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Thanks Phil for the informative reply.  I plugged in immediately when getting 
in the driveway and waited a couple hours before unloading, chain sawing and 
splitting the wood (with an electric Worx chain saw and Swisher electric log 
splitter).  
Last time I charged to 100% was at Cocoa Beach Florida in October.  Some EVers 
told me to just charge to 80% like I normally do and others say to charge to 
100% after a deep discharge- so I split the difference and charged to 90% :-)
Next time I’ll charge to 100% is when going to Gatlinburg, Oak Ridge Tn and 
Mammoth Cave Ky in February. 
Stay Charged,
Mark 

Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 14, 2024, at 4:41 PM, (-Phil-)  wrote:


You are fine, just don't let it sit at low SoC.   The "battery damage" comes 
from the fact that Tesla's BMS on the 3/Y are somewhat parasitic, and continue 
to suck power from a discharged pack.   There is added degradation from time 
spent at low SoC, but not "damage".

You do not need to do a balance charge often.  I'd say 3 to 4 times a year is 
sufficient, just do not let it sit at 100% after this charge. Plan to drive it 
soon after it finishes.  LFP is less susceptible to this kind of degradation, 
but it still happens.

On Sun, Jan 14, 2024 at 1:20 PM Mark Hanson via EV  wrote:
> Hi folks
> I just did a bad thing , hauled a bunch of firewood in my 5x8 Lowe’s trailer 
> behind my Tesla Y and the range dropped more than I thought it would. I 
> didn’t run the mini split heat pump and kept speed at 45mph (much to the 
> chagrin of red neck truck drivers behind me) and got home at 0%. When I 
> turned the EV off the display said charge immediately or cause battery 
> damage!   
> When I used to convert EVs with balancers on LiFePO4 chemistry, to rebalance 
> the pack after a deep discharge, I’d charge to 100% once (normally 80%).  
> What’s best?
> Mark in Roanoke va
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
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[EVDL] Charge to 100% after discharging to 0% for BMS equalization.

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Hi folks
I just did a bad thing , hauled a bunch of firewood in my 5x8 Lowe’s trailer 
behind my Tesla Y and the range dropped more than I thought it would. I didn’t 
run the mini split heat pump and kept speed at 45mph (much to the chagrin of 
red neck truck drivers behind me) and got home at 0%. When I turned the EV off 
the display said charge immediately or cause battery damage!   
When I used to convert EVs with balancers on LiFePO4 chemistry, to rebalance 
the pack after a deep discharge, I’d charge to 100% once (normally 80%).  
What’s best?
Mark in Roanoke va

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[EVDL] Bolt Lithium Battery Chemistry for 100% charging?

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Hi Folks
Shelor Chevy in Christiansburg Va finally caved in to me requesting a battery 
replacement on my 2020 Bolt EV after 2 weeks and ordered the replacement 
battery.   GM is still not requiring 80% charge for local trips like all other 
EV manufacturers using NMC lithium batteries.  Online I see LiFePo4 batteries 
that are less sensitive to 100% continuous charging being used on some new EUVs 
and then also see nickel -nmc being added to new and replacement packs.   Does 
anyone know what final lithium based chemistry that GM has decided on to allow 
full 100% charging every time without longevity problems? 
 Just curious what new chemistry I’m getting in the next month when they 
install the new battery and how best to treat it for longevity.  Battery 
university.com indicates that LeFePo4 is more tolerant of constant full charge 
- so I ordered some for my Bergey  wind/solar backup that keeps a float 28.2V 
(is adjustable) on 24V 380ah batteries. Hopefully will last 10 years or so 
instead of the Interstate flooded lead L16’s that had open cells in 5 years. 
Best regards 
Mark in Roanoke VA


https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2021/MC-10200142-.pdf


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[EVDL] Followup: Overheating Tesla display

[Mark Hanson via EV]

I glued a 4.5” x 13” aluminum metal flashing plate behind the display to 
reflect the sun (with elephant snot AKA silicone rubber).  That should stop 
blackouts in the summer.  I did this on the back of our flat TV that failed due 
to heat, 2nd TV with reflective Mylar stays cool (in the window south facing).  

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 27, 2023, at 12:45 PM, Mark Hanson  wrote:



https://www.greencarreports.com/news/1135819_tesla-recalls-cars-for-overheating-issue-of-screens-not-battery-packs
Has anyone noticed the backside of the Tesla 3 or Y screen really hot?  And 
added a reflective coating or heat sink to correct the problem ?
Stay Charged,
Mark
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Re: [EVDL] Shorting a A123 26650 Cell

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Thanks Phil
I grew up similarly as a kid with a huge junk pile in the basement of old parts 
from TVs and radios that I took apart and categorized that were donated from 
customers that were beyond repair.  A fair amount of HeathKits and Edmund 
Scientific too. 
Following that to EV conversions, I still have a mechanical and electrical side 
of the garage with bins from A to Z that I used when converting ICE’s to EVs.  
Best regards 
Mark

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 28, 2023, at 4:59 PM, (-Phil-)  wrote:


When I was a kid, my hobby was mostly electronics, (big surprise, right?) and I 
had a perpetually messy room (lab) that drove my Mother crazy. (Again, big 
surprise?)  She constantly threatened to "go in there, clean it up and throw it 
all in the trash".   One pre-teen day while I was at school, she finally made 
good on that promise and went in with a big black trash bag and started 
throwing "all that junk" into it.  When I came home all the windows were open 
(unusual) and the whole area smelled really toxic.  When I went in, it was even 
worse, and my room had about a 4 foot circle of burnt wet carpet and black 
melted junk all over it. 

She had thrown away a small NiCad pack and it somehow shorted out in the trash 
bag before she could haul it out, and caught fire.  She was able to put it out 
(luckily) with some water.I was grounded for a month.   She never attempted 
to touch my mess ever again though.

Lithium batteries are no joke.  I personally have had more than one accident 
and many close calls despite being well aware of the danger and being very 
careful.   Sometimes it's not even in your control (like a cell defect).   If 
you often use low-cost products with built-in Lithium, get a fire-safe bag and 
charge in it, and for large things try and do it outside.   I now have a 
covered carport-type area away from the house which I will use for any even 
slightly questionable battery activities.   Also, have good quality smoke 
detectors, preferably ones with wifi connectivity so you get an alert if 
something happens, such as these:  https://amzn.to/3Glx8Nb   Yes, Expensive, 
but way less than a homeowner's insurance deductible.  One of these really 
saved an already bad accident I had from a total disaster.

On Tue, Nov 28, 2023 at 1:37 PM Mark E. Hanson via EV  wrote:
> Hi Folks,
> 
> 
> 
> I remember in 2013 I was designing a UPS for my employer and had a A123
> 26650 cell on my desk & walked away for a couple minutes to pee and when I
> came back there was a crowd around as it apparently rolled into a spiral
> notebook and set it on fire!   
> 
> 
> 
> Fairly embarrassed, but the other engineers were impressed by the amount of
> current/destruction a single cell could do!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have a renewable energy day,
> 
> 
> 
> Mark
> 
> 
> 
> Mark E. Hanson
> 
> 184 Vista Lane
> 
> Fincastle, VA 24090
> 
> 540-473-1248 phone & FAX, 540-816-0812 cell
> 
> REEVA: community service RE & EV project club
> 
> Website: www.REEVAdiy.org (See Project Gallery)
> 
> UL Certified PV Installer
> 
> My RE Circuits: www.EVDL.org/lib/mh 
> 
> REEVA Demo:   http://youtu.be/4kqWn2H-rA0 
> 
> 
>  75b8d/signature> Fincastle Solar Weather Station
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2023 21:15:13 -0800
> 
> From: Cor van de Water   >
> 
> To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List   >
> 
> Subject: Re: [EVDL] I destroyed an A123 26650 by shorting to the case.
> 
> Message-ID:
> 
> 
>  
> >
> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> 
> 
> Lawrence, when I removed some of the cells from that pack that you picked
> up, I cut the straps with heavy duty scissors.
> 
> One time I accidentally shorted the cell I was removing while cutting and
> the current was large enough to bite a chunk out of the scissor blades...
> 
> These are *very* low resistance cells, so the short circuit current
> consequently is very high, even at the low 3.5V of a single cell.
> 
> Cor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [EVDL] Overheating Tesla display

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Thanks Phil
So sounds like most of the heat is coming from the leds that brighten up when 
sunny, not the sun itself.  I thought of Epoxying a big finned heat sink on the 
back.  
Best regards 
Mark

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 27, 2023, at 2:21 PM, (-Phil-)  wrote:

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[EVDL] Overheating Tesla display

[Mark Hanson via EV]

https://www.greencarreports.com/news/1135819_tesla-recalls-cars-for-overheating-issue-of-screens-not-battery-packs
Has anyone noticed the backside of the Tesla 3 or Y screen really hot?  And 
added a reflective coating or heat sink to correct the problem ?
Stay Charged,
Mark
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Re: [EVDL] Bolt “propulsion power reduced” after 80% update

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Ps. In addition to the heater being disabled the charger now won’t charge, says 
“fully charged” at 40% !

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 15, 2023, at 5:29 PM, Mark Hanson  wrote:

Hi Folks
I now have an orange vehicle with an exclamation point (check engine light) and 
on power up “service vehicle now” then “propulsion power reduced” message. 
I took it in 2 weeks ago for the requested range reduction 80% for 6200 miles 
(then back to 100% if battery cells are ok). 
Has anyone seen this display behavior and propulsion limited to 80KW (normally 
150KW). Regen is now limited to 28KW.  
Did the software find a bad cell and now is limiting watts in and out of the 
pack?   I assume this means another trip to the wheeler dealer?
Ps, the $1400 debit card GM gave me actually works.  
Best regards 
Mark


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Re: [EVDL] Bolt “propulsion power reduced” after 80% update

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Ps. Just noticed with the software update the heater is disabled.  I don’t like 
software updates :-(

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 15, 2023, at 5:29 PM, Mark Hanson  wrote:

Hi Folks
I now have an orange vehicle with an exclamation point (check engine light) and 
on power up “service vehicle now” then “propulsion power reduced” message. 
I took it in 2 weeks ago for the requested range reduction 80% for 6200 miles 
(then back to 100% if battery cells are ok). 
Has anyone seen this display behavior and propulsion limited to 80KW (normally 
150KW). Regen is now limited to 28KW.  
Did the software find a bad cell and now is limiting watts in and out of the 
pack?   I assume this means another trip to the wheeler dealer?
Ps, the $1400 debit card GM gave me actually works.  
Best regards 
Mark


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[EVDL] Bolt “propulsion power reduced” after 80% update

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Hi Folks
I now have an orange vehicle with an exclamation point (check engine light) and 
on power up “service vehicle now” then “propulsion power reduced” message. 
I took it in 2 weeks ago for the requested range reduction 80% for 6200 miles 
(then back to 100% if battery cells are ok). 
Has anyone seen this display behavior and propulsion limited to 80KW (normally 
150KW). Regen is now limited to 28KW.  
Did the software find a bad cell and now is limiting watts in and out of the 
pack?   I assume this means another trip to the wheeler dealer?
Ps, the $1400 debit card GM gave me actually works.  
Best regards 
Mark


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[EVDL] Fwd: Bolt EV $1400 Bait Recall

[Mark Hanson via EV]

FYI detailed info below.  Sounds like I should go for the $1400 and reduced 
range for 6200 miles.  Mark
Sent from my iPhone

Begin forwarded message:

From Rob, Bolt guru in Colorado on Bolt forum:


This topic is getting a lot of comments on chevybolt.org. 
https://www.chevybolt.org/threads/bolt-e-card-program-to-compensate-for-80-limit.52758
 
From what I understand, it is a bit complex, so bear with me…
 
A little background, there are effectively three groups of Bolt owners relative 
to the fire recall:
 
2017-2019 with 60kWh packs made in S. Korea, this was the highest risk group, 
particularly the first half of 2019 models (2nd half of 2019 batteries were 
built in Holland, MI and presumably under better quality control). These owners 
are exempt from the $1400 settlement, they will continue to get replacement 
packs (last report says 85% of these are already replaced).
2020-2022 with 66kWh packs made in Holland, MI. These were much lower risk, and 
already came with the improved chemical/capacity characteristics. Some of these 
owners are receiving the $1400 offer (see paragraph below).
Production stopped a few months after 2022 models went on sale, and resumed in 
early 2023 (for 2022 then 2023 models). This resumed batch are exempt from the 
settlement as the defect was no longer a risk (or so everyone assumes). These 
do not need the 80% diagnostic patch described in the next paragraph.
 
Recently, GM announced 2020-2022 Bolts with original batteries would get a 
diagnostic software patch instead of replacing all of these packs, which likely 
ties back to an Israeli company they recently purchased. It does more advanced 
diagnostics on the cell performance, and has identified a small % of packs in 
this second risk group (2020-2022) that qualify for a replacement pack. Some 
owners of these 2020 to 2022 already got a replacement battery, so they are 
also exempt from the settlement. Those who got replacement packs as a result of 
the diagnostic patch are likely included in the settlement because they endured 
reduced range (80% for 6200 miles) for a period.
 
All prior years should still be eligible for, or already received a replacement 
pack and thus are not included in this $1400 offer (myself included). The 2022 
and 2023 models built after production resumed are also exempt due to there 
being no perceived defect.
 
They discontinued replacing packs in the 2020-2022 group of cars as they felt 
(probably rightly) that the defect rate was quite low. As a result, owners of 
these who had not yet (some already had replacement packs installed) had their 
pack replaced were potentially out of the extended battery warranty. But, these 
models also would not get any benefit of increased capacity like older model 
owners did (original pack was 60kWh, 2020+ packs are 64-66kWh).
 
Among the changes this SW patch does is limit charging to 80% until the car is 
driven 1km (roughly 6,200 miles). Once this milestone is reached, 100% 
charging becomes available immediately. This along with the original (vs 
extended) warranty upset a few owners who contacted lawyers and started a class 
action suit. So, given the above, these are the owners (and only these) 
represented in the Class Action.
 
The outcome of the Class Action is far from certain, and any settlement is 
probably unlikely to exceed the $1400 GM is offering to this relatively small 
group of owners (lawyers tend to take the lion’s share of Class Action 
settlements historically). Accepting the offer (by the end of this year as I 
understand) will reduce any class action settlement (if any). There may be some 
waiver of rights involved in accepting the offer, but I am not an attorney and 
have not read the entire agreement as I am not in the affected class. Plenty of 
speculation on this point in the above forum thread.
 
GM published progress of the recall campaign and I summarize these reports 
every quarter. Any day now, GM should file a report for July-September and I 
will summarize it in the forum as well.
 
https://www.chevybolt.org/threads/q2-2023-battery-recall-report.51252/
Clear as mud? I may not have 100% accuracy in my understanding, but that seems 
to be the gist of it.
 
Join the discussion on the Bolt forum, it is quite detailed in many posts.  
 
Rob 
 
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[EVDL] GM offers $1, 400 to '20-'22 Chevy Bolt owners who don't get battery replacement | Electrek

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Ps, here’s a link explanation on the $1400 recall bait. Mark
https://electrek.co/2023/10/23/gm-offers-1400-to-20-22-chevy-bolt-owners-who-dont-get-battery-replacement/


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[EVDL] Bolt EV $1400 Bait Recall

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Hi folks 
I just received another Chevy Bolt EV recall notice to bring my car in and have 
the range reduced to 80% (instead of replacing the costly battery).  They 
should have (like EVeryone else) put a local 80% trip notice on the screen and 
manual but refused.   The notice claims they’ll give me $1400 “e-card” Visa if 
I go online and agree to their terms and bring my EV in to get the range 
reduced for 6200 miles.  If no fault is found then supposedly the range will go 
back to 100% available. On the back of the notice it says they’re involved in a 
class action law suit and appears to imply that if I agree to receiving $1400 
now that I won’t be included in the class action lawsuit. Originally I was told 
that I’d have my battery replace but looks like they reneged in that , software 
is cheap.  
So should I do this and get the recall?
Or is it a scam and ignore the $1400 bait?
Have a renewable energy day 
Mark

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Re: [EVDL] Leaf headlights cover replacement saga

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Thanks Cor, Dave etc
I’ve used a few buffing kits over the years that work temporarily on the 
plastic and now keep the car in the garage to avoid the sunlight which yellows 
the plastic.  I assume my Bolt and Tesla will meet the same fate in 10 years 
since cars don’t use glass headlights anymore that don’t car about UV (or 
bumpers for that matter).  
I’ll just keep buffing them since there’s not a cheap replacement for the Leaf 
bug eyes (12-16’).  
Had a clear coat spray that worked fairly well also SB-190, got another similar 
headlight clear coat on Amazon to try that got 5 stars.  
Best regards 
Mark

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On Oct 15, 2023, at 12:35 PM, e...@tucsonev.com wrote:

Totally agree with Cor. I had an Insight with very yellow/faded headlight 
lens, I 
bought 2 kits actually, followed the directions and it was a night and day 
improvement!

Best regards,

Rush Dougherty
TucsonEV
www.TucsonEV.com




> -Original Message-
> From: EV  On Behalf Of Cor van de Water via EV
> Sent: Saturday, October 14, 2023 7:28 PM
> To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List 
> Cc: Cor van de Water ; Mark Hanson
> 
> Subject: Re: [EVDL] Leaf headlights cover replacement saga
> 
> How about using one of the headlight cleaning kits that wears a thin layer 
> off, 
> I
> have had great experience with that on cloudy Prius and Leaf headlights.
> Cor.
> 
> On Sat, Oct 14, 2023, 7:06 PM Mark Hanson via EV  wrote:
> 
>> Hi folks
>> I ordered on EBay a couple headlight assemblies for my cloudy 2013
>> plastic lenses to replace.  They were $250ea led versions but the left
>> side was 10 pin connector and the right 8 pin. Both of my halogen
>> headlights were 6 pin.  The internet showed how to hack into the
>> wiring harness, add a relay and solder splice in to the newer design.
>> Since hacking the existing connectors would void the return policy, I
>> opted to just return it but shipping via UPS was $150 back to California. 
>> Does
> anyone know of a cheap
>> Leaf cover head light replacement ?   I don't want to put $1K+ into a 10
>> year old vehicle worth less.
>> Best regards
>> Mark
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
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[EVDL] Leaf headlights cover replacement saga

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Hi folks
I ordered on EBay a couple headlight assemblies for my cloudy 2013 plastic 
lenses to replace.  They were $250ea led versions but the left side was 10 pin 
connector and the right 8 pin. Both of my halogen headlights were 6 pin.  The 
internet showed how to hack into the wiring harness, add a relay and solder 
splice in to the newer design.  Since hacking the existing connectors would 
void the return policy, I opted to just return it but shipping via UPS was $150 
back to California.  Does anyone know of a cheap Leaf cover head light 
replacement ?   I don’t want to put $1K+ into a 10 year old vehicle worth less. 
Best regards 
Mark

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[EVDL] Level 2 on road charging complications

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Hi folks
I drove to Atlanta from Roanoke Va in my Tesla Y for Robot Battles at 
Dragoncon.com and tried charging at a Level 2 “Loop” charging station in the 
downtown Peachtree garage.  I spent an hour downloading the app, loading their 
proprietary loop system with my credit card, googled a phone number, called 
them, couldn’t get it going. Then a guy charging his Bolt was able to jump 
through the hoops for about a half hour and get his going.  Turned out the Loop 
software didn’t like my iPhone version operating system.  The charging station 
had a card tap reader but wouldn’t read any credit cards.  I’ve run into 
similar situations with other proprietary level 2 40c/kwh or so in Richmond 
Semaconnect etc.  Seems nowadays with credit card readers this messy charging 
process could be a *whole* lot simpler.  
Like the Tesla superchargers I go to on the highway.  
Stay Charged,
Mark

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[EVDL] Tesla mobile charge controller 32A, now 16A

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Thanks Phil 
Apparently when raining or hot the negative temperature coefficient thermistor 
tells the uP (analog input drops when resistance drops) causes it to go into 
current fold back mode. The fix looks like coating the board with conformal 
coating to prevent moisture ingress (Tesla forgot to) and to put in a larger 
enclosure with a muffin fan (or reverse these global warming 100 degree days). 
Best regards 
Mark

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On Jul 21, 2023, at 12:55 AM, Phil Hochstetler  
wrote:


I would try removing the wall side plug. It is possible over time for it to 
become partially unseated. Reseat it may fix the problem.

Phil H. 

On Thu, Jul 20, 2023, 2:12 PM Mark Hanson via EV  wrote:
> Hi folks
> Does anyone know how to take apart a Tesla mobile charge controller?  After 
> 65K miles charging it dropped to 16A, initially only when the sun shined on 
> it (heated internal thermistor), but now it’s all the time. It may be fuzzy 
> relay contacts.  I’ve seen small charge controllers like open EVSE.com have 
> similar issues, clean contacts, then ok.  Great god Google shows a guy 
> breaking the glue seal destroying it to get apart - which will leave me with 
> a 0 amp charge controller :-)
> Best regards 
> Mark
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
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[EVDL] Tesla mobile charge controller 32A, now 16A

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Hi folks
Does anyone know how to take apart a Tesla mobile charge controller?  After 65K 
miles charging it dropped to 16A, initially only when the sun shined on it 
(heated internal thermistor), but now it’s all the time. It may be fuzzy relay 
contacts.  I’ve seen small charge controllers like open EVSE.com have similar 
issues, clean contacts, then ok.  Great god Google shows a guy breaking the 
glue seal destroying it to get apart - which will leave me with a 0 amp charge 
controller :-)
Best regards 
Mark

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[EVDL] Electrify America Reviews: What Is It Like to Work At Electrify America? | Glassdoor

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Hi folks
Looking at servicing EV fast chargers, 49% said they’d recommend EA to friends 
to work and 66% for Tesla by comparison. 
https://www.glassdoor.com/Reviews/Electrify-America-Reviews-E3021231.htm
Best regards mark


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Re: [EVDL] Electric Plane by Bearhawk kits

[Mark Hanson via EV]

That’s true but he’s doing a dual winding custom single motor with dual drives. 
Mark

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 30, 2023, at 2:52 AM, (-Phil-)  wrote:

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Re: [EVDL] Electric Plane by Bearhawk kits

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Thanks Luke
The Xenos has a belt, if pops off in deep doo doo.  Bobs design is direct 
drive.  Good electronics though. 
Mark

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 29, 2023, at 11:41 PM, Luke Scharf  wrote:


The closest is Gabe Devault's Xenos electric motorglider:
Turned On—We Fly an Electric Xenos! - KITPLANES

It's based on the Zero motorcycle drivetrain.

-Luke


On Sat, Apr 29, 2023 at 8:51 AM Mark Hanson via EV  wrote:
> Hi Folks
> I live near Bob Barrows bearhawkaircraft.com plane “experimental” kits to get 
> around FAA requirements.  He and his associate are building a single seater 
> electric version of his bearhawk kit. They’re using an Australian APD control 
> with a 3K rpm direct drive BLDC (pulsed 3 phase) magnet motor ( so no brushes 
> to fail).  They bought the package from a consultant in California and Mike 
> was programming the controller with his laptop when I visited.  It runs fine 
> at 200A 120Vdc on a Lithium China pack but at 300A starts to overheat.  So 
> they’re adding a second controller for flight redundancy and dual 3 phase 
> windings in the motor in the next couple months.  
> Does anyone work on electric planes or is there an off the shelf electric 
> drive (motor control) with a good reliable track record ?   Just don’t want 
> to be reinventing the wheel here….  If you google Bob Barrows electric plane 
> YouTube videos pop up about the construction and issues they’ve run into.  He 
> estimates about 1/2 hour of flight time. 
> Stay Charged
> Mark
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
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[EVDL] Electric Plane by Bearhawk kits

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Hi Folks
I live near Bob Barrows bearhawkaircraft.com plane “experimental” kits to get 
around FAA requirements.  He and his associate are building a single seater 
electric version of his bearhawk kit. They’re using an Australian APD control 
with a 3K rpm direct drive BLDC (pulsed 3 phase) magnet motor ( so no brushes 
to fail).  They bought the package from a consultant in California and Mike was 
programming the controller with his laptop when I visited.  It runs fine at 
200A 120Vdc on a Lithium China pack but at 300A starts to overheat.  So they’re 
adding a second controller for flight redundancy and dual 3 phase windings in 
the motor in the next couple months.  
Does anyone work on electric planes or is there an off the shelf electric drive 
(motor control) with a good reliable track record ?   Just don’t want to be 
reinventing the wheel here….  If you google Bob Barrows electric plane YouTube 
videos pop up about the construction and issues they’ve run into.  He estimates 
about 1/2 hour of flight time. 
Stay Charged
Mark

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[EVDL] Spark EV no chargers manufactured

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Hi folks
A friend that I sold my Spark EV to now has at the dealer for charger warranty 
replacement. It’s been sitting at the Chevy dealer for about a month since they 
claim the charger has to be manufactured by GM and none are available off the 
shelf. It’s 13A and the Bolt is 30A so not swappable with the Bolt.  Does 
anyone have a wrecked Spark with a charger for sale?   Or know when GM might be 
making more chargers?
Best regards 
Mark

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Re: [EVDL] 2013 Leaf Regen during cold weather

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Thanks Phil for your informative reply. It sounds like the Leaf software turns 
on and off intermittently when around the set point , which makes braking a bit 
disconcerting.  The Tesla and the Bolt just seem to turn off like a Schmidt 
trigger with some hysteresis , not flutter around a cold set point like the 
Leaf does. 
Stay Charged,
Mark

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 19, 2023, at 6:43 PM, (-Phil-)  wrote:


Most Lithium chemistries will be destroyed if charged below freezing due to 
plating of the anode with metallic lithium, so the BMS will not allow charge, 
even though discharge is fine.   You have to heat the pack to allow charging, 
this is why all EV batteries have some way to heat the pack if they will be 
used in cold climates. 

If your pack is not too cold, you might be able to warm it up enough just by 
drawing current from it.

On Sun, Mar 19, 2023 at 3:26 PM Mark Hanson via EV  wrote:
> Hi Folks
> Last year when regen was intermittently dropping out at 26F degrees, I took 
> it to the stealership who said it was a bad 12V battery they wanted to 
> replace for $500.  I got an Optima at Advance Auto and then this year 
> (surprise ) the problem is back. I assume they must be turning off the regen 
> when it gets below 26F.  Not sure why since the battery tolerates 100s of 
> amps load, going through other way shouldn’t matter.  
> Best regards 
> Mark 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
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[EVDL] 2013 Leaf Regen during cold weather

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Hi Folks
Last year when regen was intermittently dropping out at 26F degrees, I took it 
to the stealership who said it was a bad 12V battery they wanted to replace for 
$500.  I got an Optima at Advance Auto and then this year (surprise ) the 
problem is back. I assume they must be turning off the regen when it gets below 
26F.  Not sure why since the battery tolerates 100s of amps load, going through 
other way shouldn’t matter.  
Best regards 
Mark 

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Re: [EVDL] Chevy Bolt Battery recall fix with software?

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Thanks Phil
That’s what I heard, why I avoided it, would reduce my reduced 200 mile range 
to 80% To 160 miles. I always charge my Lithium chemistry EVs (previous LiFePo4 
batts) and current factory EVs to 80% for all local trips and occasionally to 
100% when on trips only. So I haven’t experienced the Bolt battery problem 
(luckily) but it’s a tiny percentage of EVs made anyway.  
Stay Charged,
Mark

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 15, 2023, at 5:43 PM, (-Phil-)  wrote:


The software fix was supposed to be a stop-gap and all it did was limit the 
full charge percentage as it's full charges that could cause the separators to 
fail and burn.

On Wed, Mar 15, 2023 at 2:38 PM Mark Hanson via EV  wrote:
> Hi folks
> The Chevy stealership (Shelor Chevy in Christiansburg) called me last month 
> and said they’re fixing the battery recall on my 2020 Chevy Bolt with a 
> software download and to bring it in.  I was skeptical since I know the 
> history of their battery cell issues.  
> Has anyone heard of this?   I told him to call me when they get a physical 
> battery in for replacement (range has dropped from 260-200miles).  Luckily my 
> Tesla Y is still at 325 miles after 55K miles.  The Bolt has 42K miles on it 
> and the 13’ Leaf 41K
> Have a renewable energy day 
> Mark
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
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[EVDL] Chevy Bolt Battery recall fix with software?

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Hi folks
The Chevy stealership (Shelor Chevy in Christiansburg) called me last month and 
said they’re fixing the battery recall on my 2020 Chevy Bolt with a software 
download and to bring it in.  I was skeptical since I know the history of their 
battery cell issues.  
Has anyone heard of this?   I told him to call me when they get a physical 
battery in for replacement (range has dropped from 260-200miles).  Luckily my 
Tesla Y is still at 325 miles after 55K miles.  The Bolt has 42K miles on it 
and the 13’ Leaf 41K
Have a renewable energy day 
Mark

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[EVDL] Tesla slashes its car prices as much as 20% to prop up sagging sales, where’s the $30K EV? A Chevy Bolt?

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Hi folks,
Looks like Elon dropped the sky high prices but not to a down to earth $30k for 
the masses (like his competition, Bolt, Kia, Hyundai 
Have a renewable energy New Year,
Mark
https://nypost.com/2023/01/13/tesla-slashes-its-car-prices-as-much-as-20-to-prop-up-sagging-sales/


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[EVDL] Tesla slashes its car prices as much as 20% to prop up sagging sales, where’s the $30K EV? A Chevy Bolt?

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Hi folks,
Looks like Elon dropped the sky high prices but not to a down to earth $30k for 
the masses (like his competition, Bolt, Kia, Hyundai 
Have a renewable energy New Year,
Mark
https://nypost.com/2023/01/13/tesla-slashes-its-car-prices-as-much-as-20-to-prop-up-sagging-sales/


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[EVDL] Chevy Bolt Battery Recall

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Thanks Ed, Mike for the informative reply. 
I still don’t understand why GM doesn’t display on the screen and users manual 
(like my Tesla Y and Nissan Leaf) does to only charge to 80% most of the time 
for local trips. Seems like this would help their 100% when hot charging cell 
(rare) fires. 
I got a letter from Chevy saying that they were going to reduce the range to 
80% (presumably over the OnStar air network).  A month or so it appeared that I 
had less range on long trips but could be a placebo effect….  Anyway I’ll check 
the link you recommended on the battery replacement status.  Sounds like 
they’re replacing the whole battery pack and not just individual cells since 
they can’t determine the cell shorting problem without destroying it.  
My 21’ Tesla Y has 50K miles and no issues so far (except annoying display over 
the air tweaks) contrary to Consumer Reports last month black eye on 
reliability.  They put the Ford Mach E (mustang) at the top (for reliability) 
this time but EPA gave it a low efficiency rating (along with the VW).  Not 
sure why some EV manufacturers don’t spend more time in the wind tunnel…
Stay Charged (on solar power),
Mark

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[EVDL] Chevy Bolt battery recall

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Hi folks
I bought a new Chevy Bolt August 2020 (now has about 40k miles) and a year ago 
got a letter from Shelor Chevy saying they were going to replace the battery, 
now just crickets (dealer doesn’t know anything) Does any Bolt folks know if 
they just replaced the 2017s and not the newer cars?  The range has dropped 
from 260 to about 220 in warm weather. I noticed that Chevy is the only one 
that doesn’t say to charge to 80% for local trips , probably why they’ve had 
some 100% charging fires (clueless owners charging hot to 100% daily). 
Have a renewable energy Christmas 
Mark

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[EVDL] F150 bricked at Electrify America Charging station

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Hi folks
It’s a level 3, not level 2 charging station in the article. Level 2 (single 
phase 240V) EVSE should only use copper wire per Tesla Level 2 installation 
instructions.  With outside temperature variations, aluminum wire tends to 
creep away from the terminals over time (get loose ) and can then cause a fire 
under high current operation.  I’ve seen garage aluminum connections loose 
after 5-10 years but inside the house at constant temperature, connections are 
still tight (proper terminal torque settings).  I avoid aluminum wiring due to 
the thermal creep problem.  Sometimes it’s required for long 200’ solar 
installation runs and increase size for derating and voltage drop. 
Best regards 
Mark

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[EVDL] Smaller EVs, 3 wheel vehicles

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Hi folks
The main reason for 3 wheels as the EVDL has mentioned before, is getting 
around crash tests to list as a motorcycle.  I converted a Cushman (or 
Cushwoman if female driver) to electric many moons ago (in the 90s).  It has a 
small truck box on the back and a Harley front wheel to gearbox steering wheel 
with skid bars (to throw sparks in turns).  The problem with all 3 wheel 
vehicles is all the manhole covers are in the middle of the road since most 
vehicles are 4 wheels and can straddle them. Also I squished a lot of dead 
animals that tend to be in the middle of the road. Now I have a Tesla, Bolt and 
Leaf - don’t have to squish dead animals anymore.  
Have a renewable energy day,
Mark

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[EVDL] Self Driving Not Ready for Prime Time, EVLN: Tesla can't see kids

[mark hanson via EV]

Hi Folks,

 

I was heading up rt81 freeway from Roanoke VA to Harrisonburg yesterday in
my Tesla Y to get flushed away at the Massanutten H20 Park and an hour into
the trip the self driving or "auto pilot" jerked the steering wheel into the
left lane & I jerked it back (luckily between cars).  I thought using self
driving was safe on straight highways, "what could possibly go wrong?".
Then about a 1/2 hour later (just using the cruise control), it hit the
brakes and I hit the accelerator (almost got rear ended).  My son said "dad,
why don't you just drive the car and forget about the self driving
nonsense".  Words of wisdom.  Elon should just keep making a nice EV and
forget the fluffy stuff that causes problems.

 

The fundemantal "fatal flaw" is self driving needs at least 3 computers to
"vote" and kick out the one that gets a glitch (cosmic rays, brain farts
etc).  All the cars attempting this foolishness are using only *one*
microcomputer.

 

 

 

Message: 3

Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2022 17:17:42 -0400

From: Michael Ross mailto:michael.e.r...@gmail.com> >

To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailto:ev@lists.evdl.org> >

Subject: Re: [EVDL] EVLN: Tesla can't see kids?

Message-ID:

 
mailto:CANNQeoKn9+6tFH-H6YoOXwnzd2BWHa6xJc40j=a=za7+r+8...@mail.gmail.com>
>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

 

As Musk likes to say, "the possibility of success exists." I imagine FSD can
be many times safer than human drivers. But, for some reason we will always
be harsher in our view of machine mistakes than our own.

 

If FSD was 10 times less likely to cause a fatality in all situations (could
be that expressway success is super good), it would be logical to go with
it, even if it fails sometimes with the corner cases - that even humans fail
at often. But, I doubt it would be accepted. In the US the deep pockets of
Tesla would be too much of a temptation for lawyers in the liability
business.

 

How about this: put little warning buzzers in us all to shock us into
alertness when we move towards danger? Oh yeah, that is the amygdala, it has
some bad results unrelated to actual danger.

 

 

On Tue, Aug 9, 2022 at 5:04 PM Peter Eckhoff via EV mailto:ev@lists.evdl.org> >

wrote:

 

> They all have this problem in one way or another.  The Bolt I owned 

> never saw a pedestrian except once in a Blue Moon but that was about 

> two years ago or so.  I drive a Tesla and see some of the problems 

> they are talking about with regard to pedestrians.  Tesla is not 100% 

> at all.

> 

> Personally, I don't see FSD coming to any EV especially for all 

> environments.  There are too many niche and standard cases that have 

> to have to be considered in fractions of a second.  From the 

> inattentive pedestrian,  kid coming out from behind a parked car, 

> aggressive walker, etc.  No software can read a person's mind and 

> intentions.  We, as humans, have a hard time guessing what a person 

> might do.

> 

> "Driving is too important to leave it up to self driving systems by 

> themselves." and I think that's the bottom line.  You have to make the 

> driver aware of situations but not take over and be a "be all" for 

> everything.  I hope Tesla is finally learning that lesson.  I'm not 

> sure fi Mr. Musk will ever capitulate.  I hope he does.

> 

> 

> 

> On Tue, Aug 9, 2022 at 4:27 PM EV List Lackey via EV 

> mailto:ev@lists.evdl.org> >

> wrote:

> >

> > I used to worry about what it would do to EVs' reputation if someday 

> > an unisolated or defective charger electrocuted a kid touching the EV.

> This is

> > potentially almost as destructive.  If further research confirms 

> > this

> flaw,

> > Tesla has a lot of work to do, and fast.

> >

> > -

> >

> > Tesla?s self-driving technology fails to detect children in the 

> > road,

> tests

> > find

> >

> > Professional test driver using Tesla?s Full Self-Driving mode 

> > repeatedly

> hit

> > a child-sized mannequin in its path

> >

> > In several tests, a professional test driver found that the [FSD 

> > beta] software - released in June - failed to detect the child-sized 

> > figure at

> an

> > average speed of 25mph and the car then hit the mannequin. [...]

> >

> > At the company?s shareholder meeting earlier this month Musk said 

> > that

> Full

> > Self-Driving has greatly improved, and he expected to make the 

> > software available by the end of the year to all owners [who] 

> > request it. But questions about its safety continue to mount.

> >

> > In June, the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) 

> > said

> it

> > was expanding an investigation into 830,000 Tesla cars across all 

> > four current model lines ... A second NHTSA investigation is also 

> > under way to determine if the removal of the forward-looking radar 

> > sensor on some

> newer

> > Teslas is causing the vehicles to apply their brakes for no reason,

> which is

> > called "phantom braking" and can lead to 

[EVDL] Tesla's 'Radio Upgrade' Adds FM & Sirius XM Back, But Costs $500

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Hi folks
Yesterday my FM stations disappeared on a model Y update. Does anyone know how 
to get the frequency numbers to display again. Also the mothership updated the 
GPS, now the red line slow traffic is gone. Hate updates. 
Also a cop told me the cameras are worthless if they don’t show speed.  
Consumer Reports recommended some vehicle cameras in the last months issue that 
show speed. 
Best regards 
Mark
https://screenrant.com/tesla-model-radio-fm-sirius-upgrade-cost/


Sent from my iPhone
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[EVDL] How to include vehicle speed on Teslas cameras?

[mark hanson via EV]

Hi,

 

After reading the recent Consumer Reports article on police revenue
gathering, needing a dash cam in your car to prove your speed in court, I
noticed my Tesla Y has *no* speed displayed like other dash cams do.  I've
had this happen previously in another EV, (accused of 77 when I was doing
55).  How do you add the speedometer into the video?  Is there an interior
camera pointing at the dash speed display to record?

 

Have a renewable energy day,

 

Mark

 

Mark E. Hanson

184 Vista Lane

Fincastle, VA 24090

540-473-1248 phone & FAX, 540-816-0812 cell

REEVA: community service RE & EV project club

Website: www.REEVAdiy.org   (See Project Gallery)

UL Certified PV Installer

My RE Circuits: www.EVDL.org/lib/mh   

REEVA Demo: http://youtu.be/4kqWn2H-rA0 

Fincastle Solar Weather Station
 

 

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[EVDL] Chevy Bolt battery replacement and 80% local driving policy.

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Thanks Chris
I have a 2000 Bolt.  Did they just replace a few cells and software or actually 
the whole pack?  Did they finally recommend 80% charging for local trips like 
all other EVs?
Best regards 
Mark

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 20, 2022, at 4:13 PM, ev-requ...@lists.evdl.org wrote:

Send EV mailing list submissions to
   ev@lists.evdl.org

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of your message, and quote only the parts to which you're replying.



Today's Topics:

  1. 2017 Chevy Bolt free new battery deal is real
 (Christopher Darilek)


--

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 20 Apr 2022 13:15:33 + (UTC)
From: Christopher Darilek 
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List 
Subject: [EVDL] 2017 Chevy Bolt free new battery deal is real
Message-ID: <396524552.1576510.1650460533...@mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

Shout out to Chevy for the free new (recall) battery I guess, picked mine up 
yesterday. New car!? :)

Chris Darilek
2017 Chevy Bolt
1974 BMW 2002 EV


--

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End of EV Digest, Vol 114, Issue 13
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[EVDL] Leaf 12 upgrade to 60kw

[mark hanson via EV]

Hi Cor etc.

 

How much $$ does it cost for a 62KWH?  I've got a 2013 Leaf, just 1 bar down
on the battery capacity meter though, about 70 miles instead of 90ish when
it was a spring chicken.  I'm in the Roanoke, VA area, would I have to go to
the stealership?  Would Nissan even do it?  Probably would just want to sell
a new Leaf.

 

Best Regards,

Mark 

 

From: Cor van de Water 

To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List 

Subject: Re: [EVDL] leaf 12 upgrade to 60kw

Message-ID:

  

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"

 

Oh and to answer the charging question: the car indicates that it will take
indeed something like 20 hours to fully charge from empty.

That is why I did get a Leaf with DC Fast Charge.

Cor.

 

On Mon, Apr 11, 2022 at 2:32 AM Cor van de Water 
wrote:

> 

> I did the upgrade of a 2012 Leaf with 62kWh pack a few weeks ago.

> You need a CAN bridge and a couple longer bolts due to the pack being 

> 40mm taller.

> I did not put back the 2 belly pan plastic sheets under the battery 

> box, they no longer fit.

> I *did* put back the front pan, between front axle and front lip of 

> the battery, which will also divert wind, sand and moisture away from 

> the battery.

> Once you have the pack installed, you must charge fully to max to let 

> the CAN bridge and the car learn the new capacity.

> I did not (yet) modify any suspension to carry the increased weight, 

> it just sits a lil lower.

> Hope this helps!

> Cor.

> 

 

 

Have a renewable energy day,

 

Mark

 

Mark E. Hanson

184 Vista Lane

Fincastle, VA 24090

540-473-1248 phone & FAX, 540-816-0812 cell

REEVA: community service RE & EV project club

Website: www.REEVAdiy.org (See Project Gallery)

UL Certified PV Installer

My RE Circuits: www.EVDL.org/lib/mh 

REEVA Demo:   http://youtu.be/4kqWn2H-rA0 

 
 Fincastle Solar Weather Station

 

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[EVDL] Followup response: Nissan Leaf 2013 Cold Brake (dropout)

[mark hanson via EV]

Thanks Bill, Phil, Paul etc,

 

I replaced the battery a couple weeks ago with an Optima Yellow-Top $330 -
so have to wait till next winter to see if there's brake drop out issues
when cold occurs <25F).  The original recall for 46K vehicles for cold
braking dropout was for *Regen* not happening due to a *software* issue and
to download the latest software to correct the problem - but if the brake
booster vacuum pump is dropping out due to a less than stiff impedance
battery, that's a different problem.  That's the thing with intermittent
issues, sometimes hard to diagnose accurately (when everything's fine).
I'll let you know next winter.

 

Best regards, Mark 

 

Message: 1

Date: Mon, 28 Mar 2022 11:28:58 +1300

From: Bill Dube 

To: ev@lists.evdl.org

Subject: Re: [EVDL] Followup: Nissan Leaf 2013 Cold Brake (dropout)

  Recall

Message-ID: 

Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed

 

The voltage on a lead-acid battery goes _up_ in cold weather, by the way.

 

Under load in cold weather, however, the higher impedance will tend to make
the 12 volt battery voltage sag under load.

 

But the the vehicle DC-DC is working when the brake issue arises, so the
battery will play a smaller role. Worth looking at the 12 volt system
voltage when the brakes are applied.

 

Perhaps there are additional loads such as power steering load that will
cause the 12 volt sag when the brake boost becomes an issue.

 

Bill D.

 

 

Have a renewable energy day,

 

Mark

 

Mark E. Hanson

184 Vista Lane

Fincastle, VA 24090

540-473-1248 phone & FAX, 540-816-0812 cell

REEVA: community service RE & EV project club

Website: www.REEVAdiy.org (See Project Gallery)

UL Certified PV Installer

My RE Circuits: www.EVDL.org/lib/mh 

REEVA Demo:   http://youtu.be/4kqWn2H-rA0 

 
 Fincastle Solar Weather Station

 

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Re: [EVDL] Followup: Nissan Leaf 2013 Cold Brake (dropout) Recall

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Thanks Paul
I know it should be but I don’t know how to adjust the leaf dc dc converter. Do 
you ?
Best regards 
Mark

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 28, 2022, at 8:00 AM, paul dove  wrote:

 The minimum charging voltage is 13.8 volts dc across the battery terminals, 
or at the output of the alternator. A single lead-acid cell starts to charge at 
anything over 2.25 volts. Since a 12 volt battery has six cells, any 12 volt 
lead-acid battery needs at least 13.8 volts to start to charge.


Sent from AT Yahoo Mail for iPhone

On Sunday, March 27, 2022, 9:15 AM, mark hanson via EV  
wrote:

Hi Folks,



I checked the 12V aux voltage through the cigarette lighter socket with a
DVM and shows 13.0V during operation.  The low voltage storage codes over
time were caused by the vehicle sitting a long time and the ghost loads
dropping the battery voltage to 10V and had to recharge externally (also
sets low voltage codes when replacing the battery).I don't see *how* the
aux voltage operating at 13V has *any* effect on the brakes in *cold*
weather.  I'd love to see a technical explanation on this rather than "just
replace the good battery with a more expensive one".



Best regards,

Mark 



From: mark hanson [mailto:markehans...@gmail.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, March 23, 2022 10:08 PM
To: 'Electric Vehicle Discussion List'
Subject: Nissan Leaf 2013 Cold Brake (dropout) Recall



Hi Folks,



After seeing this recall, 46.9K Leafs 2013-2016 and having my brakes drop
out in the cold (apparently regen appears to shut off when cold
intermittently), I took it to the wheeler-dealer:

https://www.csmonitor.com/Business/In-Gear/2016/0318/2013-2015-Nissan-Leaf-r
ecalled-for-braking-problem-46-000-vehicles-affected#:~:text=Nissan%20is%20r
ecalling%20more%20than,braking%20ability%20in%20cold%20weather.
<https://www.csmonitor.com/Business/In-Gear/2016/0318/2013-2015-Nissan-Leaf-
recalled-for-braking-problem-46-000-vehicles-affected#:~:text=Nissan%20is%20
recalling%20more%20than,braking%20ability%20in%20cold%20weather.=A%20Ni
ssan%20Leaf%20electric%20car,(January%2012%2C%202016>
=A%20Nissan%20Leaf%20electric%20car,(January%2012%2C%202016 ). I was
asked to report on the actual response (below)



The Roanoke VA Southern team Nissan dealer told me that the warranty expired
and had to charge me $250 for an hour of labor (I must be in the wrong
business) to read the software through the OBD-2 port and see if it had the
brake update.  I was told it had the latest update although I hadn't brought
it in before.  (In 2015 it was in for an air conditioner failure under
warranty.)  I was then told that the *12V Aux* battery is what was causing
the cold brake drop out *after* I printed out a photo of the red exclamation
point and temperature display at 25F *and* the recall notice, showed to
them.  (I guess they thought they would sell me a pricey battery).  I drove
it to Advance Auto and bought a new fancy Optima Yellow Top $330 battery to
replace the 2019 (Advance Auto battery I replaced still under warranty).
Since the present battery was still under warranty, they tested it and said
it was OK but gave me $189 store credit.



Dealer service dept response:

iPhone Message 3/8/22: "Hi This is Southern Team, we are calling because we
are looking over your vehicle.  Unfortunately what we are saying is you *do*
have the latest and greatest software installed to your vehicle regarding
the brakes and what we are noticing however is that your regular 12V battery
is registering 300 CCA to 397CCA and should be closer to 500CCA.  You also
have a bunch of low-voltage codes stored in the system from where we have
obviously plugged it in to perform a software update and see what software
version was installed last.  We think that the battery is what's causing the
light on the dash and resistance with your brakes - is actually related to
where your system doesn't have the appropriate amount of electrical current
running through it so they're recommending that you actually replace your
battery."



The printout after service reads in caps: "A CUSTOMER IS REQUESTING NEW
BRAKING SOFTWARE TO BE UPLOADED.  CUSTOMER BELIEVES THIS WILL CORRECT THE
CONCERN OF THE TRIANGLE LIGHT POPULATING AT TIMES WHEN BRAKING, FEELS LIKE
BRAKE BOOSTER ISN'T WORKING, ESPECIALLY WHEN BELOW FREEZING.  TAKES A LOT OF
EFFORT TO BRAKE --- UPLOAD SOFTWARE ONLY - 1.0  NBE INSPECTED VEHICLE AND
FOUND LATEST SOFTWARE FOR BRAKE SYSTEM ALREADY INSTALLED - LOW VOLT CODES
STORED - REC REPLC 12V, 381 CPN $250

41859 1.00 CUSTOMER REQUEST WE PERFORM A SOFTWARE UPDATE TO THE BRAKING
SYSTEM FOUND ONLINE WHERE IT WOULD FIX THEIR CONCERN.  CHECK BRAKE PART
NUMBER AND ADVISE CUSTOMER THERE IS NO UPDATE AVAILABLE FOR THE BRAKING
SYSTEM - IT HAS ALREADY BEEN REPROGRAMMED ELSEWHERE.  DID FIND MULTIPLE LOW
VOLTAGE CODES STORED DUE TO WEAK 12V BATTERY.  THIS CAN CAUSE THE SAME
CONCERNS YOU HAVE - RECOMMEND BATTERY REPLACEMENT."



Question: has anyone heard of w

[EVDL] Followup: Nissan Leaf 2013 Cold Brake (dropout) Recall

[mark hanson via EV]

Hi Folks,

 

I checked the 12V aux voltage through the cigarette lighter socket with a
DVM and shows 13.0V during operation.  The low voltage storage codes over
time were caused by the vehicle sitting a long time and the ghost loads
dropping the battery voltage to 10V and had to recharge externally (also
sets low voltage codes when replacing the battery).I don't see *how* the
aux voltage operating at 13V has *any* effect on the brakes in *cold*
weather.  I'd love to see a technical explanation on this rather than "just
replace the good battery with a more expensive one".

 

Best regards,

Mark 

 

From: mark hanson [mailto:markehans...@gmail.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, March 23, 2022 10:08 PM
To: 'Electric Vehicle Discussion List'
Subject: Nissan Leaf 2013 Cold Brake (dropout) Recall

 

Hi Folks,

 

After seeing this recall, 46.9K Leafs 2013-2016 and having my brakes drop
out in the cold (apparently regen appears to shut off when cold
intermittently), I took it to the wheeler-dealer:

https://www.csmonitor.com/Business/In-Gear/2016/0318/2013-2015-Nissan-Leaf-r
ecalled-for-braking-problem-46-000-vehicles-affected#:~:text=Nissan%20is%20r
ecalling%20more%20than,braking%20ability%20in%20cold%20weather.

=A%20Nissan%20Leaf%20electric%20car,(January%2012%2C%202016 ). I was
asked to report on the actual response (below)

 

The Roanoke VA Southern team Nissan dealer told me that the warranty expired
and had to charge me $250 for an hour of labor (I must be in the wrong
business) to read the software through the OBD-2 port and see if it had the
brake update.  I was told it had the latest update although I hadn't brought
it in before.  (In 2015 it was in for an air conditioner failure under
warranty.)  I was then told that the *12V Aux* battery is what was causing
the cold brake drop out *after* I printed out a photo of the red exclamation
point and temperature display at 25F *and* the recall notice, showed to
them.  (I guess they thought they would sell me a pricey battery).  I drove
it to Advance Auto and bought a new fancy Optima Yellow Top $330 battery to
replace the 2019 (Advance Auto battery I replaced still under warranty).
Since the present battery was still under warranty, they tested it and said
it was OK but gave me $189 store credit.

 

Dealer service dept response:

iPhone Message 3/8/22: "Hi This is Southern Team, we are calling because we
are looking over your vehicle.  Unfortunately what we are saying is you *do*
have the latest and greatest software installed to your vehicle regarding
the brakes and what we are noticing however is that your regular 12V battery
is registering 300 CCA to 397CCA and should be closer to 500CCA.  You also
have a bunch of low-voltage codes stored in the system from where we have
obviously plugged it in to perform a software update and see what software
version was installed last.  We think that the battery is what's causing the
light on the dash and resistance with your brakes - is actually related to
where your system doesn't have the appropriate amount of electrical current
running through it so they're recommending that you actually replace your
battery."

 

The printout after service reads in caps: "A CUSTOMER IS REQUESTING NEW
BRAKING SOFTWARE TO BE UPLOADED.  CUSTOMER BELIEVES THIS WILL CORRECT THE
CONCERN OF THE TRIANGLE LIGHT POPULATING AT TIMES WHEN BRAKING, FEELS LIKE
BRAKE BOOSTER ISN'T WORKING, ESPECIALLY WHEN BELOW FREEZING.  TAKES A LOT OF
EFFORT TO BRAKE --- UPLOAD SOFTWARE ONLY - 1.0  NBE INSPECTED VEHICLE AND
FOUND LATEST SOFTWARE FOR BRAKE SYSTEM ALREADY INSTALLED - LOW VOLT CODES
STORED - REC REPLC 12V, 381 CPN $250

41859 1.00 CUSTOMER REQUEST WE PERFORM A SOFTWARE UPDATE TO THE BRAKING
SYSTEM FOUND ONLINE WHERE IT WOULD FIX THEIR CONCERN.  CHECK BRAKE PART
NUMBER AND ADVISE CUSTOMER THERE IS NO UPDATE AVAILABLE FOR THE BRAKING
SYSTEM - IT HAS ALREADY BEEN REPROGRAMMED ELSEWHERE.  DID FIND MULTIPLE LOW
VOLTAGE CODES STORED DUE TO WEAK 12V BATTERY.  THIS CAN CAUSE THE SAME
CONCERNS YOU HAVE - RECOMMEND BATTERY REPLACEMENT."

 

Question: has anyone heard of with this recall with the 12V battery causing
the braking regen to drop out on cold weather - or is this *junk science* ?

 

 

Have a renewable energy day,

 

Mark

 

Mark E. Hanson

184 Vista Lane

Fincastle, VA 24090

540-473-1248 phone & FAX, 540-816-0812 cell

REEVA: community service RE & EV project club

Website: www.REEVAdiy.org (See Project Gallery)

UL Certified PV Installer

My RE Circuits: www.EVDL.org/lib/mh 

REEVA Demo: http://youtu.be/4kqWn2H-rA0 

Fincastle Solar Weather Station
 

 

-- next 

[EVDL] Nissan Leaf 2013 Cold Brake (dropout) Recall

[mark hanson via EV]

Hi Folks,

 

After seeing this recall, 46.9K Leafs 2013-2016 and having my brakes drop
out in the cold (apparently regen appears to shut off when cold
intermittently), I took it to the wheeler-dealer:

https://www.csmonitor.com/Business/In-Gear/2016/0318/2013-2015-Nissan-Leaf-r
ecalled-for-braking-problem-46-000-vehicles-affected#:~:text=Nissan%20is%20r
ecalling%20more%20than,braking%20ability%20in%20cold%20weather.

=A%20Nissan%20Leaf%20electric%20car,(January%2012%2C%202016 ). I was
asked to report on the actual response (below)

 

The Roanoke VA Southern team Nissan dealer told me that the warranty expired
and had to charge me $250 for an hour of labor (I must be in the wrong
business) to read the software through the OBD-2 port and see if it had the
brake update.  I was told it had the latest update although I hadn't brought
it in before.  (In 2015 it was in for an air conditioner failure under
warranty.)  I was then told that the *12V Aux* battery is what was causing
the cold brake drop out *after* I printed out a photo of the red exclamation
point and temperature display at 25F *and* the recall notice, showed to
them.  (I guess they thought they would sell me a pricey battery).  I drove
it to Advance Auto and bought a new fancy Optima Yellow Top $330 battery to
replace the 2019 (Advance Auto battery I replaced still under warranty).
Since the present battery was still under warranty, they tested it and said
it was OK but gave me $189 store credit.

 

Dealer service dept response:

iPhone Message 3/8/22: "Hi This is Southern Team, we are calling because we
are looking over your vehicle.  Unfortunately what we are saying is you *do*
have the latest and greatest software installed to your vehicle regarding
the brakes and what we are noticing however is that your regular 12V battery
is registering 300 CCA to 397CCA and should be closer to 500CCA.  You also
have a bunch of low-voltage codes stored in the system from where we have
obviously plugged it in to perform a software update and see what software
version was installed last.  We think that the battery is what's causing the
light on the dash and resistance with your brakes - is actually related to
where your system doesn't have the appropriate amount of electrical current
running through it so they're recommending that you actually replace your
battery."

 

The printout after service reads in caps: "A CUSTOMER IS REQUESTING NEW
BRAKING SOFTWARE TO BE UPLOADED.  CUSTOMER BELIEVES THIS WILL CORRECT THE
CONCERN OF THE TRIANGLE LIGHT POPULATING AT TIMES WHEN BRAKING, FEELS LIKE
BRAKE BOOSTER ISN'T WORKING, ESPECIALLY WHEN BELOW FREEZING.  TAKES A LOT OF
EFFORT TO BRAKE --- UPLOAD SOFTWARE ONLY - 1.0  NBE INSPECTED VEHICLE AND
FOUND LATEST SOFTWARE FOR BRAKE SYSTEM ALREADY INSTALLED - LOW VOLT CODES
STORED - REC REPLC 12V, 381 CPN $250

41859 1.00 CUSTOMER REQUEST WE PERFORM A SOFTWARE UPDATE TO THE BRAKING
SYSTEM FOUND ONLINE WHERE IT WOULD FIX THEIR CONCERN.  CHECK BRAKE PART
NUMBER AND ADVISE CUSTOMER THERE IS NO UPDATE AVAILABLE FOR THE BRAKING
SYSTEM - IT HAS ALREADY BEEN REPROGRAMMED ELSEWHERE.  DID FIND MULTIPLE LOW
VOLTAGE CODES STORED DUE TO WEAK 12V BATTERY.  THIS CAN CAUSE THE SAME
CONCERNS YOU HAVE - RECOMMEND BATTERY REPLACEMENT."

 

Question: has anyone heard of with this recall with the 12V battery causing
the braking regen to drop out on cold weather - or is this *junk science* ?

 

 

Have a renewable energy day,

 

Mark

 

Mark E. Hanson

184 Vista Lane

Fincastle, VA 24090

540-473-1248 phone & FAX, 540-816-0812 cell

REEVA: community service RE & EV project club

Website: www.REEVAdiy.org (See Project Gallery)

UL Certified PV Installer

My RE Circuits: www.EVDL.org/lib/mh 

REEVA Demo:   http://youtu.be/4kqWn2H-rA0 

 
 Fincastle Solar Weather Station

 

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[EVDL] 2013-2015 Nissan Leaf recalled for braking problem, 46, 000 vehicles affected

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Hi Folks
I just got back from Team Nissan dealer Roanoke VA and they said the Recall on 
my 2013 was too old to be included and did a $250 evaluation and said that 
since my vehicle sat for 3 months while on vacation , that it caused the 
problem due to low battery and not the software.  The service department 
claimed that I already had the latest brake software installed.  (Guess it was 
installed by aliens).  I’ll have to wait till next winter (with a new battery) 
and see if it occurs again.  Sounds like nonsense to me, has anyone heard that 
a low 12V auxiliary battery can cause brake problems in the winter?
https://www.thecarconnection.com/news/1102850_2013-2015-nissan-leaf-recalled-for-braking-problem-46000-vehicles-affected
Best regards 
Mark 


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[EVDL] 2013-2015 Nissan Leaf recalled for braking

[mark hanson via EV]

Thanks Dave etc,

 

I put the VIN number in to your recommended link and it does *not* come up
as a recall for the 46K Leaf cold brake failures *but* my 2013 Leaf has the
exact problem described also with the red ! lit dash indicator light as
described in the online article, said it was a software fix (new
brake-control download).  The stealership said if I can't find the recall
for my VIN, then I'll have to pay $250 to come in + the fix (total about
$1K).  I thought that a software update download was free?

 

Also thanks for the recommendation on the LED lights replacement for dim
headlights (that work above 9V).  That sounds like the way to go.

 

Best Regards,

Mark 

 

Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2022 20:08:15 -0500

From: "EV List Lackey" 

To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List 

Subject: Re: [EVDL] 2013-2015 Nissan Leaf recalled for braking

  problem, 46, 000 vehicles affected

Message-ID: <6216942f.23622.68bb9...@evpost.drmm.net>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

 

On 23 Feb 2022 at 19:40, Mark Hanson via EV wrote:

 

> The Roanoke Va PeterTMs creek rd Nissan dealer says ITMd have to

> pay for this since itTMs no longer a recall (about $1k). Sounds like BS to

> me.

 

I'm not an expert on these matters, but as I understand it, "no longer a 

recall" isn't a thing.  Recalls don't expire.  If your Leaf hasn't had the 

recall, you should still be able to have it done until it's at least 15 

years old.

 

Dealers don't like doing recall service.  They get paid less for it than for


repairs they bill to a customer, so the sleazy ones will try to weasel out 

of it.  What this says about your dealer there will be left as an exercise 

for the reader.

 

Have you called the Nissan number mentioned in the story? 800 647-7261

 

Or you could try another Nissan dealer.

 

You might also try going here and entering your VIN.

 

https://vinrcl.safercar.gov/vin/

 

If the recall service has already been carried out on your car, and the 

problem has recurred, then I don't know what your options would be.  Others 

may know.

 

David Roden, EVDL moderator & general lackey

 

To reach me, don't reply to this message; I won't get it.  Use my 

offlist address here : http://evdl.org/help/index.html#supt

 

 

Have a renewable energy day,

 

Mark

 

Mark E. Hanson

184 Vista Lane

Fincastle, VA 24090

540-473-1248 phone & FAX, 540-816-0812 cell

REEVA: community service RE & EV project club

Website: www.REEVAdiy.org (See Project Gallery)

UL Certified PV Installer

My RE Circuits: www.EVDL.org/lib/mh 

REEVA Demo:  <http://youtu.be/4kqWn2H-rA0> http://youtu.be/4kqWn2H-rA0 

 
<https://www.weatherlink.com/embeddablePage/show/a88920376f864ecabaed843dd89
75b8d/signature> Fincastle Solar Weather Station

 

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[EVDL] Nissan Leaf 2013 dim headlights at 14V

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Does anyone with a Leaf have dim headlights at 14V?   Do you recommend another 
halogen or change to Led or Hid lights?
Mark

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[EVDL] Semaconnect $2 per Kwh!

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Hi folks
I’m at a Enphase solar class in Richmond VA at a Best Western  and just looked 
at the Level 2 Semaconnect charging station that’s showing $120 for 60KWH !  
Has anyone experienced that rate?  I guess it saw me coming. Should have 
charged at a Tesla fast charger for 28c per Kwh.  
Stay Charged (but not at a Semaconnect)
Mark

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[EVDL] 2013-2015 Nissan Leaf recalled for braking problem, 46, 000 vehicles affected

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Hi folks
My 2013 Nissan Leaf has this cold braking problem and I can’t figure out if the 
brake booster dropout when cold is software (cheap update) or hardware related 
(replace brake booster).  Is anyone familiar with this 46.9K vehicles recall?  
The Roanoke Va Peter’s creek rd Nissan dealer says I’d have to pay for this 
since it’s no longer a recall (about $1k). Sounds like BS to me. 
https://www.thecarconnection.com/news/1102850_2013-2015-nissan-leaf-recalled-for-braking-problem-46000-vehicles-affected
Best regards 
Mark

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[EVDL] Tesla Y Roanoke, VA to Florida Keys - self driving glitches/twitches

[mark hanson via EV]

Hi Folks,

 

Some asked me to record any glitches/drop-outs on my next road trip with my
21' Tesla-Y going to and from Roanoke, VA to Key Largo Florida returning
last night 2-22-22.  We went through Atlanta to pick up my son's girlfriend.
The "auto-pilot" that Tesla calls the self driving while on the highway that
comes with the car was engaged periodically to relieve long trip fatigue
which is nice on a *straight* highway.

 

. On I-81 at mm132 Truck exit right line disappeared, speed dropped
off, partial loss of auto-pilot, reengaged

. At mm91 similar, right line disappeared, steering pulled to right,
two bings & dropped out.  Works best in middle lane

. At mm31 right line went away, similar to above but speed control
kept working at 70mph (partial drop out)

. In Florida at mm123 Florida Turnpike to Miami left line
disappeared & dropped out steering but cruise control & acceleration still
working

. At mm145 in a construction zone lane change, double bing-bong from
speakers, both steering and cruise control dropped out

. East on 820 I-75 2/17/22 10am to charger with 20% remaining NPR FM
dropped out, temperature stuck, display froze, then went *black* as
autopilot dropped out.  Pulled over and self-reset.  Last time I had to
press both left and right gimbals and hold foot on brake peddle to reboot
the car, but this time it did it by itself.

. Heading back, north on I-75 mm61 south of Macon GA, an odd size
tractor-trailer to the right of me confused the autopilot and it dropped out

. At mm79 route 40 south of Knoxville, Tn a series of large potholes
bounced the car causing the auto-pilot to drop out but cruise control kept
going

. For fun, I tried engaging in the pouring rain, but had camera
error messages since they were obscured.

 

Conclusion,  Autopilot/self driving works mostly on a straight highway to
take the fatigue out of driving but not a good idea in town or on curvy
roads when it drops out for a variety of reasons.

 

 

 

Have a renewable energy day,

 

Mark

 

Mark E. Hanson

184 Vista Lane

Fincastle, VA 24090

540-473-1248 phone & FAX, 540-816-0812 cell

REEVA: community service RE & EV project club

Website: www.REEVAdiy.org (See Project Gallery)

UL Certified PV Installer

My RE Circuits: www.EVDL.org/lib/mh 

REEVA Demo:   http://youtu.be/4kqWn2H-rA0 

 
 Fincastle Solar Weather Station

 

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[EVDL] Fast chargers are almost as profitable as gasoline pumps, claims BP executive

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Since fast chargers are connected to a 480 3 phase industrial feed, they 
generally get the industrial rate, less than the 12.6cents residential rate 
(typically 1/2-2/3rds residential) Tesla then charges 28-35cents per KWh and VW 
(Electrify America) 43cents per KWh.  
https://www.greencarreports.com/news/1134762_fast-chargers-are-almost-as-profitable-as-gasoline-pumps-claims-bp-executive
Stay Charged,
Mark in Roanoke

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[EVDL] Testing Teslas New Full Self Driving FSD, NOT ready for prime time

[mark hanson via EV]

Hi Mark etc,

 

Fundamentally: There's really *too* many variables to do FSD (full self
driving) safely.  

 

I just got back from Blacksburg, VA, professor Dave's Tesla-3 with the
*latest* as of 2-8-22 self driving software to show off.  We let it drive us
around Blacksburg (about 30 minutes) and it got confused, *stuck* in a
round-a-bout, another road T, had to give it some accel and then made a left
turn *almost hitting* a big black truck head-on (Dave jerked the steering
wheel thankfully).  Going back through the neighborhood, someone popped out
between two parked vehicles on the side of the road and it almost clipped
her.  Due droplets on the cameras (or mud) can cause intermittent issues
I've found.  It's a great EV but Tesla needs to drop this self driving
thing, not worth having live folks as experiments.  

 

I thought with multiple computers drop out issues would be solved, but now
I'm convinced after seeing firsthand actual FSD errors not to pay the extra
(now $12K I was just told) to be part of Elon's experiment.

 

Best Regards,

The other Mark Hanson

 

Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2022 08:43:29 + (UTC)

From: Mark Laity-Snyder 

To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List 

Subject: [EVDL] Fw: Request Tesla crash data

Message-ID: <1430018246.579166.1644309809...@mail.yahoo.com>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

 

Mark:? Thanks for this.? I am not sure if it will help.? I agree with you
that Tesla should have two or even 3 computers for full self driving.? If
one were to glitch out, that is all that is preventing you or many others
from being injured or killed.? Tesla has a 5 star safety rating.? So the
passengers and driver will probably be ok but bystanders be aware.

EVDL: ?I am the guy Mark was talking about.??Story time!? So my wife got in
the 1st Tesla accident.? FSD was on and she was driving.? She was fiddling
with the sound system (or something) on the lovely screen that practically
begs you to play with it and we were on a road we don't often go down.? It
happened to be a T intersection with a stop sign.? She saw the stop sign too
late and ran into a short wall.? This was before FSD registered stop signs
and would have slowed down for a stop sign.? Such is our luck.? On the 2nd
Tesla accident, I can't remember the details leading to the accident since I
sustained a pretty bad head injury (enough to cause double vision for 6
months).? However we saw the dash cam footage which shows the car just
driving off the road.? No change in speed or course correction.? I was given
many tests after the accident to rule out some physical problem that may
have caused me to lose consciousness.? There was no smoking gun that would
say "Yes he lost consciou  sness because...".? I am lucky Tesla has that 5
star safety rating because other than the double vision I had no lasting
injuries.? The people who were going to move the vehicle wanted to cut the
vehicle at the battery.? Fortunately someone realized it was a Tesla and
didn't do that which would have started a runaway fire.??

So lessons learned are exactly what folks have said about losing focus.? FSD
is very good ALMOST all the time.? In that one case out of 1000+ the human
must be ready to take over in a split second. I am still very hopeful for
FSD to be solved. If any company can do it it will be Tesla at this point
since they have the most data.? I think the super computer is just used for
training the cars to get better and the more data they have the faster that
will happen.? Waymo has a lovely system that only works in the geofenced
area that is premapped and safe.? ?I agree with Lawrence that cameras should
be all that is needed.? Radar was probably giving false signals.? Then there
is question of priority.? The cameras see all clear but the radar sees
something else like a leaf or snow or a rabbit.? Which one has priority???

I am not sure where my focus was but it was not where it needed to be.? I
was out of work for over 8 months and now I can't afford to replace the
Tesla.? It is a great car.? Even after all that, I would probably get FSD
again especially since it is improving so rapidly.? It is like having a
front row seat watching our computer overlords take their first steps before
they take over our lives.

 

   - Forwarded Message - From: mark hanson
To: 'Mark Laity-Snyder' Sent:
Friday, February 4, 2022, 10:39:55 PM ESTSubject: Request Tesla crash data

Hi Mark,

 

?

 

I saw a few articles that Tesla will supply the crash data recorded in the
vehicle: https://www.tesla.com/support/privacy .? I think you said in both
your cases, that the vehicle thought the self driving or auto pilot was off
when it was actually on.? It needs at least 3 computers to vote for life
critical operations, like self driving on a curvy road ? glitch, drops out &
goes straight, ok for a desk PC but not for a vehicle.? Seeing this thread
go around on the EVlist again.

 

?

 

Have a renewable energy day,

 

?

 

Mark

 

?

 

Mark E. 

[EVDL] Self Driving Mode, was Tesla's Sneaky Rolling

[mark hanson via EV]

Hi Peri etc,

 

I don't recall a warning when it glitched and dropped out.  It has made a
bing sound (from the speakers) when it gets confused with large tractor
trailers and drops out.  It's odd that it has trouble identifying large
tractor trailers (image jumps around a lot frequently) but small cars appear
stable in the screen.  I just bop the right stick twice again and it
resumes, no biggie on a straight highway.  It doesn't happen that often,
only a couple times going to Florida and once up to Pennsylvania.  We're
heading down to the Keys Febuary 11th , so I'll make a note of the
glitches/frequency.

 

One thing that's more annoying though, sometimes it gets confused with a
blowing leaf or clump of snow etc and flashes red with a loud noise out of
the loud speakers (my wife hates that "feature"), makes you jump when
there's nothing there.  Them says "taking control of steering wheel" and
feel a little force this way or that which I just ignore/overpower.

 

I wish I could turn off all this "fluffy" stuff.  Guess I'm used to simple
conversions and my Chevy Bolt & Leaf.

 

Best regards,

Mark 

 

Date: Sat, 05 Feb 2022 21:09:18 +

From: "Peri Hartman" 

To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" 

Subject: Re: [EVDL] Self Driving Mode, was Tesla's Sneaky Rolling

  Stops

Message-ID: 

Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed

 

Does autopilot give any sort of warning when it drops out ? It seems that it
should do something that grabs you attention instantly, e.g. 

vibrate the steering wheel or even a mild shock.

 

Peri

 

 

Have a renewable energy day,

 

Mark

 

Mark E. Hanson

184 Vista Lane

Fincastle, VA 24090

540-473-1248 phone & FAX, 540-816-0812 cell

REEVA: community service RE & EV project club

Website: www.REEVAdiy.org (See Project Gallery)

UL Certified PV Installer

My RE Circuits: www.EVDL.org/lib/mh 

REEVA Demo:   http://youtu.be/4kqWn2H-rA0 

 
 Fincastle Solar Weather Station

 

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[EVDL] Self Driving Mode, was Tesla's Sneaky Rolling Stops

[mark hanson via EV]

Thanks Bill.

 

Folks, We could argue the details back & forth but fundamentally a computer
dropping out during a critical life function is a *fatal flaw* in
engineering.  Sure the folks that ran into trees during self driving should
have been more attentive, but when you pay $10K extra for a "feature" and
start getting used to it, driving daily to work for a year (on a curvy road)
and nothing happens, start getting less vigilant - then one bright sunny
Tuesday morning, surprise! Into a tree.

 

I use the self driving mode on *straight* highways "auto pilot" (when you
don't pay the extra $10K) - it's nice, takes the fatigue out of long trips
*but* I've had the computer drop out several times going to Florida and up
to Pennsylvania and thought nothing of it, just bop twice the right stick on
the column and it starts back again.  I almost bought the extra $10K full
self driving package for my handicapped wife *but* after my friends
accidents and seeing it drop out on me, I realized it was a *bad* idea.

 

Best Regards,

Mark 

 

 

Date: Sat, 5 Feb 2022 12:51:48 +1300

From: Bill Dube 

To: ev@lists.evdl.org

Subject: Re: [EVDL] Tesla?s Sneaky Rolling Stops

Message-ID: <50cef399-5b1e-cde1-920b-b594a274e...@killacycle.com>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed

 

Michael -

 

??? How, exactly, would Mark be able to provide "factual data" on this
incident?? If you think about it, how would _anyone_ be able to, since the
device that could record the incident data was off-line at the time it
happened and this was the root cause of the incident? Mark speculated that
it was quite possible that other similar "glitches" have caused other
similar unrecorded incidents.

 

??? I have known Mark for more than 20 years and have found him utterly
truthful and reliable. If he says it happened, I completely believe it
happened.

 

??? Also, I can envision how this could easily happen and how it would
completely escape the notice of Tesla. On commercial airplanes, they have
two (2) separate flight computers, using two different brand CPUs, using two
completely "firewalled" separate teams of code developers for their flight
computers. The two systems continuously monitor each other for faults and
warn the pilots when they see any divergence in flight control between the
computers. There are two _other_ separate systems recording flight data as
well. They do this because peoples lives depend on these systems working
perfectly and continuously. There is no similar multiple redundancy in
Tesla. _YOU_ are the redundancy that they are depending on to take over if
there is a computer glitch.

 

??? "The world is an imperfect place. Screws fall out." (Quote from "The
Breakfast Club.")

 

??? Bill D.

 

On 2/5/2022 11:08 AM, Michael Ross via EV wrote:

> Mark, Can you show me where this anecdotal information might be 

> gathered as factual data?  I have become very wary of information that 

> is not attributed to some source that I can trust. No offence intended.

> 

> On Fri, Feb 4, 2022 at 4:38 PM Mark Hanson via EV 
wrote:

> 

>> Tesla should just drop the whole self driving thing and just focus on 

>> a great electric car.  My Tesla Y was the only EV I could find with 

>> towing capacity for my H20 ski boat and an excellent nationwide charging
network.

>> The problem with self driving is when the computer gets a glitch, it 

>> drops out and the vehicle goes straight, usually into a tree on a 

>> curvy road (happened to my friend last year and previous year to his 

>> wife in a Tesla3). Of course when the computer drops out it doesn?t 

>> record the crash as a self driving error.  How convenient for Tesla.  

>> The actual crash rate is much higher than recorded.

>> Best regards

>> Mark

 

 

Have a renewable energy day,

 

Mark

 

Mark E. Hanson

184 Vista Lane

Fincastle, VA 24090

540-473-1248 phone & FAX, 540-816-0812 cell

REEVA: community service RE & EV project club

Website: www.REEVAdiy.org (See Project Gallery)

UL Certified PV Installer

My RE Circuits: www.EVDL.org/lib/mh 

REEVA Demo:  <http://youtu.be/4kqWn2H-rA0> http://youtu.be/4kqWn2H-rA0 

 
<https://www.weatherlink.com/embeddablePage/show/a88920376f864ecabaed843dd89
75b8d/signature> Fincastle Solar Weather Station

 

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[EVDL] PS: Tesla’s Sneaky Rolling Stops

[mark hanson via EV]

PS, in both cases they told me that the vehicle recorded the autopilot off at 
the time of the crash (driver error) even though it was actually on.

 

From: mark hanson [mailto:markehans...@gmail.com] 
Sent: Friday, February 04, 2022 10:00 PM
To: 'Michael Ross'; 'Electric Vehicle Discussion List'
Subject: [EVDL] Tesla’s Sneaky Rolling Stops

 

Hi Mike etc,

 

If you can get Elon to put in a second computer to monitor the first one that 
dies – then you’d have some real data.  Also in self driving (like the Space 
Shuttle for life critical systems), multiple uP’s vote (at least 3).  All truly 
self driving cars *should* have at least 3, so that if one glitches on a curvy 
road and drops out, the other two kick out its’ “vote” and don’t crash the car. 
 Another friend in Maryland had the same issue with his model 3, why I opted 
*not* to pay the $10K extra for full self driving mode (even though my wife 
would like it since handicapped).  Not ready for prime-time.

 

 

Have a renewable energy day,

 

Mark

 

Mark E. Hanson

184 Vista Lane

Fincastle, VA 24090

540-473-1248 phone & FAX, 540-816-0812 cell

REEVA: community service RE & EV project club

Website: www.REEVAdiy.org (See Project Gallery)

UL Certified PV Installer

My RE Circuits: www.EVDL.org/lib/mh 

REEVA Demo: http://youtu.be/4kqWn2H-rA0 

Fincastle Solar Weather Station 
<https://www.weatherlink.com/embeddablePage/show/a88920376f864ecabaed843dd8975b8d/signature>
 

 

 

 

From: Michael Ross [mailto:michael.e.r...@gmail.com] 
Sent: Friday, February 04, 2022 5:09 PM
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Cc: Mark Hanson
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Tesla’s Sneaky Rolling Stops

 

Mark, Can you show me where this anecdotal information might be gathered as 
factual data?  I have become very wary of information that is not attributed to 
some source that I can trust. No offence intended.

 

On Fri, Feb 4, 2022 at 4:38 PM Mark Hanson via EV  wrote:

Tesla should just drop the whole self driving thing and just focus on a great 
electric car.  My Tesla Y was the only EV I could find with towing capacity for 
my H20 ski boat and an excellent nationwide charging network. 
The problem with self driving is when the computer gets a glitch, it drops out 
and the vehicle goes straight, usually into a tree on a curvy road (happened to 
my friend last year and previous year to his wife in a Tesla3). Of course when 
the computer drops out it doesn’t record the crash as a self driving error.  
How convenient for Tesla.  The actual crash rate is much higher than recorded. 
Best regards 
Mark

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-- 

Michael E. Ross

(919) 585-6737 Land

(919) 901-2805 Cell and Text

 <https://www.google.com/voice/b/0?pli=1#phones> (919) 576-0824 Tablet, Google 
Phone and Text

 

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[EVDL] Tesla’s Sneaky Rolling Stops

[mark hanson via EV]

Hi Mike etc,

 

If you can get Elon to put in a second computer to monitor the first one that 
dies – then you’d have some real data.  Also in self driving (like the Space 
Shuttle for life critical systems), multiple uP’s vote (at least 3).  All truly 
self driving cars *should* have at least 3, so that if one glitches on a curvy 
road and drops out, the other two kick out its’ “vote” and don’t crash the car. 
 Another friend in Maryland had the same issue with his model 3, why I opted 
*not* to pay the $10K extra for full self driving mode (even though my wife 
would like it since handicapped).  Not ready for prime-time.

 

 

Have a renewable energy day,

 

Mark

 

Mark E. Hanson

184 Vista Lane

Fincastle, VA 24090

540-473-1248 phone & FAX, 540-816-0812 cell

REEVA: community service RE & EV project club

Website: www.REEVAdiy.org (See Project Gallery)

UL Certified PV Installer

My RE Circuits: www.EVDL.org/lib/mh 

REEVA Demo: http://youtu.be/4kqWn2H-rA0 

Fincastle Solar Weather Station 
<https://www.weatherlink.com/embeddablePage/show/a88920376f864ecabaed843dd8975b8d/signature>
 

 

 

 

From: Michael Ross [mailto:michael.e.r...@gmail.com] 
Sent: Friday, February 04, 2022 5:09 PM
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Cc: Mark Hanson
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Tesla’s Sneaky Rolling Stops

 

Mark, Can you show me where this anecdotal information might be gathered as 
factual data?  I have become very wary of information that is not attributed to 
some source that I can trust. No offence intended.

 

On Fri, Feb 4, 2022 at 4:38 PM Mark Hanson via EV  wrote:

Tesla should just drop the whole self driving thing and just focus on a great 
electric car.  My Tesla Y was the only EV I could find with towing capacity for 
my H20 ski boat and an excellent nationwide charging network. 
The problem with self driving is when the computer gets a glitch, it drops out 
and the vehicle goes straight, usually into a tree on a curvy road (happened to 
my friend last year and previous year to his wife in a Tesla3). Of course when 
the computer drops out it doesn’t record the crash as a self driving error.  
How convenient for Tesla.  The actual crash rate is much higher than recorded. 
Best regards 
Mark

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Michael E. Ross

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[EVDL] Tesla’s Sneaky Rolling Stops

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Tesla should just drop the whole self driving thing and just focus on a great 
electric car.  My Tesla Y was the only EV I could find with towing capacity for 
my H20 ski boat and an excellent nationwide charging network. 
The problem with self driving is when the computer gets a glitch, it drops out 
and the vehicle goes straight, usually into a tree on a curvy road (happened to 
my friend last year and previous year to his wife in a Tesla3). Of course when 
the computer drops out it doesn’t record the crash as a self driving error.  
How convenient for Tesla.  The actual crash rate is much higher than recorded. 
Best regards 
Mark

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[EVDL] Tesla Y actual wall outlet efficiency

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Hi folks
My heavy 4400lb Tesla Y is more efficient than I thought, close to EPA rating, 
measured 265 watt hours per mile at the wall outlet with a GE KWh meter over 
144 miles various hwy/city driving.  The laptop screen car display shows 
220-240 wh/mi at the car/battery which doesn’t include charger/batt 
inefficiencies.  My previous electric Karmann Ghia 1974 “ELEC KAR” tag was 330 
wh/mi actual at the AC outlet.  My Bolt and Leaf are slightly less efficient 
than the Tesla but all my conversions over the years were in the 330ish range, 
much less efficient than present day factory EVs. 
Have a renewable energy efficient new year,
Mark

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[EVDL] Tesla Battery Monitor TM-Spy

[mark hanson via EV]

Hi Folks,

 

Is anyone familiar with the TM-Spy for the Tesla to see individual cell
voltages and other vehicle info like the Leaf Spy on the ELM-327 I plug into
the OBD-2 of my 13' Leaf used on my iPhone?

 

I didn't see the program available on the iPhone apple apps.  I have a 2021
Tesla-Y and sounds like it would be nice to have if compatible.  I heard the
Tesla doesn't have a standard OBD-2 connector and an adapter is needed.

 

Would be nice to have one for the Bolt EV too.

 

Have a renewable energy day,

 

Mark

 

Mark E. Hanson

184 Vista Lane

Fincastle, VA 24090

540-473-1248 phone & FAX, 540-816-0812 cell

REEVA: community service RE & EV project club

Website: www.REEVAdiy.org (See Project Gallery)

UL Certified PV Installer

My RE Circuits: www.EVDL.org/lib/mh 

REEVA Demo:   http://youtu.be/4kqWn2H-rA0 

 
 Fincastle Solar Weather Station

 

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[EVDL] Tesla Heat Pump Operation

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Hi Folks
I asked the great god google since I was curious why I hear things whirring 
when parked. There’s some info on Teslamotorsckub.com but a good analysis of 
the patent from March 7, 2019/0070924A1 on 
www.insideEVs.com/news/452464/Tesla-model-y-heat-pump-system-details/.   It 
shows that 2019/earlier was resistance heat using 2170W vs 735W for the mini 
split heat pump.  It also scavenges heat like a geothermal heat pump below 14F 
from the motor/inverter/battery liquid cooling circuit.  Below that it goes 
onto COP=1 mode (like leaving your fridge door open) where it runs the 
condenser discharge air back to the evaporator inlet (runs condenser/evaporator 
same time) resulting in 5.5KW of effective resistance heat.  When the cabin 
gets above 50F during the day in the sun sitting in a parking lot, it sucks the 
heat out and stores in the battery mass heat sink.  Then reuses that heat when 
driving home in the cold weather after the sun goes down.  So they play a lot 
of efficiency games to get the best range (unlike my Chevy Bolt or Nissan Leaf 
that’s only resistance heat).  The Hyundai Kona and Kia Nero EVs use a similar 
mini split heat pump and scavenge heat from the motor/inverter/battery.  
Stay Charged,
Mark

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[EVDL] Chevy Bolt 2020 50 mile Range Drop in One Year

[mark hanson via EV]

Hi Folks,

 

My 260 mile $30K Chevy Bolt 2020 range dropped to 210 this year.  I normally
charge to 80% for local trips (although that tidbit is missing from the
manual/display unlike the Leaf & Tesla).  When I charge to 100% last month
it was still about 260 miles, now this week it dropped to 210 miles.  I read
that there were some battery issues at 100% (maybe because they didn't tell
folks to charge to 80% for local use).  The battery was advertised as 64KWH
although it's stamped underneath at 62KWH but now behaving like a 50KWH or
80% battery pack.  I wonder if the Mother Ship downloaded a 80% operation
through OnStar that it has (but I didn't pay for)?

 

Has anyone had this happened on their Bolt.  I was going to buy a cheaper
210 mile Leaf, but bought the Bolt for the longer range, oops - now the same
as the cheaper Leaf.

 

The Tesla Y at the same 21K miles is still doing 325 miles range and charges
*much* faster (up to 200KW pre-cooling the pack), more fast charging
stations through the easy to use GPS.

 

Have a renewable energy day,

 

Mark

 

Mark E. Hanson

184 Vista Lane

Fincastle, VA 24090

540-473-1248 phone & FAX, 540-816-0812 cell

REEVA: community service RE & EV project club

Website: www.REEVAdiy.org (See Project Gallery)

UL Certified PV Installer

My RE Circuits: www.EVDL.org/lib/mh 

REEVA Demo:   http://youtu.be/4kqWn2H-rA0 

 
 Fincastle Solar Weather Station

 

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[EVDL] Solid State Batteries differences

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Hi Folks
I was reading on Wikipedia , Samsung etc about solid state batteries where the 
typical lithium liquid or jell electrolyte is a solid / ceramic in solid state 
batteries.  Wikipedia listed the LiFePO4 lithium based batteries we used in our 
conversions as solid state batteries.  I assume it’s the same chemistry, just 
the electrolyte has changed to a solid.  Wiki shows they’re twice the energy 
density at 400 watt hours per Kg vs the present 200 of existing batteries but 
*much* more expensive.  Are they going to be used in EVs or made of Unobtanium 
like other “new improved” batteries that stay in the lab due to high cost?
Stay Charged,
Mark in Roanoke VA

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Re: [EVDL] Leaf 2013 Ghost Loads on 12V battery

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Thanks Roger
It was unplugged in the garage for 3 weeks.  Sounds like the Leaf doesn’t wake 
up the dc dc converter when the 12v battery discharges like my Tesla and Bolt 
does.  Guess I’ll keep a solar float charger on the battery when parked.  
Best regards 
Mark

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 10, 2021, at 2:49 PM, Roger Stockton  wrote:

Mark Hanson wrote:

> After parking the 2013 Leaf in the garage for 3 weeks, it wouldn’t go
> when I tried to drive it last night, flashed as error Contact the Dealer
> with a bunch of yellow exclamation points.  I remembered from the EVDL
> to check the 12V battery and it was 9V so I charged it up and then all
> the worthless error messages went away and could drive it.

Mark, did you leave the Leaf plugged in to charge while it was parked (or when 
measuring the ghost load)?

I have been told that when plugged in, the 12V battery will be drained faster 
after charge completes because the various modules on the vehicle remain awake 
and communicating via CAN (but the vehicle DC/DC is off and charging ceases).  
As a result, it is counterintuitively advised to leave the vehicle *unplugged* 
when parked for longer periods, because the modules will go to sleep and 
consume less power.

We haven't had any issue with the 12V battery on our 2016 or, now, our 2020, 
but we also haven't had occasion to leave either parked for an extended period.

Hope this helps,

Roger.

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Re: [EVDL] 125ma ghost load on Leaf 2013

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Thanks a bunch Phil!
That’s good to know about the Tesla so I won’t fret over that.  I just asked 
the great god google on the Bolt and on Reddit was posted that the Bolt wakes 
up the dc-dc converter when the 12V battery gets low (about 12V) but if the 
traction battery is below 40% DOD then it does *not* keep the 12 V battery 
charged.  So sounds like it should be ok most of the time while sitting at an 
airport etc for weeks.  I guess they didn’t think of doing that on the Leaf.  
I’ll recheck the ghost load with the KeyFob away from the car.  Might get 
another solar panel float charger for the Leaf.  
The Leaf and Bolt appear to have a robust dc-dc converter for running about 10A 
120V inverter (100A on 12 V with short jumpers) when the power hours out.  The 
Tesla’s for some odd reason won’t do that or at least in the manual says bad 
things will happen if you put a high current load on the 12V battery/ dc-dc 
converter as it’s monitoring for fault currents.  
Stay Charged,
Mark 

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 10, 2021, at 1:24 PM, (-Phil-)  wrote:


125ma seems too high on your Leaf.  But if you disconnect the 12v to insert an 
ammeter, you may need to allow time for the car to settle back to it's sleep 
state.  Also be sure to keep the key fob WELL AWAY from the car.  If it's in 
your pocket during the measurement, there's your problem.

On the Model Y, VCFront is responsible for monitoring the 12v battery.  If it 
detects the battery needs a charge it will ask the BMS to fire up the HV and 
then the whole car will wake up, including coolant pumps, etc.   It will then 
complete the full charge of the 12v, then go back to sleep.

I have no experience with the Bolt.

On Fri, Dec 10, 2021 at 5:06 AM Mark Hanson via EV  wrote:
> Hi folks
> I measured the ghost load on the Leaf last night at 125Ma and 160ma with the 
> CarChip plugged into the OBD2 to monitor speed (since in 96’ a cop wanted to 
> through me in jail for a year on a fake speeding ticket on my ElectroMetro 
> conversion).  I put the new battery on a supply set to 14.2V the evening and 
> then back to 13.6 float and noticed this morning was drawing 300ma charge 
> when I pulled it off.  Probably have to put it on a float tender or solar 
> panel like I did my truck.  
> I also have a Bolt 20’ and Tesla Y 21’. Does anyone know if they have high 
> ghost loads that the dc converter doesn’t take care of by periodically 
> turning on?
> Stay Charged
> Mark in Roanoke Va
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
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[EVDL] 125ma ghost load on Leaf 2013

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Hi folks
I measured the ghost load on the Leaf last night at 125Ma and 160ma with the 
CarChip plugged into the OBD2 to monitor speed (since in 96’ a cop wanted to 
through me in jail for a year on a fake speeding ticket on my ElectroMetro 
conversion).  I put the new battery on a supply set to 14.2V the evening and 
then back to 13.6 float and noticed this morning was drawing 300ma charge when 
I pulled it off.  Probably have to put it on a float tender or solar panel like 
I did my truck.  
I also have a Bolt 20’ and Tesla Y 21’. Does anyone know if they have high 
ghost loads that the dc converter doesn’t take care of by periodically turning 
on?
Stay Charged
Mark in Roanoke Va

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[EVDL] Leaf 2013 Ghost Loads on 12V battery

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Hi folks
After parking the 2013 Leaf in the garage for 3 weeks, it wouldn’t go when I 
tried to drive it last night, flashed as error Contact the Dealer with a bunch 
of yellow exclamation points.  I remembered from the EVDL to check the 12V 
battery and it was 9V so I charged it up and then all the worthless error 
messages went away and could drive it.  It’s been falling out of favor with my 
son and wife since we’ve been driving the Tesla Y and Bolt more but probably 
need to drive weekly to maintain the 12V battery that seems to be on a shallow 
charge at 13.4V from the dc dc converter. Does anyone know what the ghost name 
load is and how to eliminate it?  Maybe need to keep in a battery tender float 
charger when not driving it. I’ll have to check the ma load tonight after work. 
 I’ll be retiring from GE Renewable Energy at Christmas so have more time to 
fool with this stuff 
Have a Renewable Energy Christmas 
Mark in Roanoke Va

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[EVDL] How to see KWH on Tesla screen

[mark hanson via EV]

Hi Folks,

 

I found the trick of how to see KWH on my Tesla-Y.  While charging , I hold
my finger on the *miles* guessometer and it changes to percent and at the
same time *KWH* is displayed in the charging screen.  Then you can divide
the dollars by the KWH to get the cost per KWH.  It's interesting that Tesla
is about 28c per KWH and Electrify America is 43c per KWH for CCS/Chademo
5:1 ratio charging.  I wonder why Tesla is less expensive?  At home it's
free off my solar panels J

 

I noticed on the converters used, the newer 20-21' installs are 250-350KW
split into 4 fast charging cable/stations.  Most have two converters and 8
charging stations.  The 18' ish fast charging had one 150KW converter
feeding two charging cable/stations.  For 8 stations, they had 4 converters.
I noticed while going to/from Florida, that some converters were enclosed in
a wood privacy fence about 10' high (blocking air flow from the upper
radiators) - so when it was hot and all stations were being used - some
dropped out from overheating, stopping those from getting charged until they
cooled off.  Converter 1 fed cable stations 1A, 1B, 1C, 1D and converter 2
fed cable stations 2A, 2B, 2C, 2D, so I moved my car to the other bank for
initial high current charge.  Since I'm retiring at Christmas, maybe Tesla
could use some converter help J

 

Have a renewable energy day,

 

Mark

 

Mark E. Hanson

184 Vista Lane

Fincastle, VA 24090

540-473-1248 phone & FAX, 540-816-0812 cell

REEVA: community service RE & EV project club

Website: www.REEVAdiy.org (See Project Gallery)

UL Certified PV Installer

My RE Circuits: www.EVDL.org/lib/mh 

REEVA Demo:   http://youtu.be/4kqWn2H-rA0 

 
 Fincastle Solar Weather Station

 

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[EVDL] Tesla fast charging converters

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Hi folks
The 5ea white Tesla converters sitting off to the side of the 10 charging ports 
are split with 135KW max for this setup. All are fed at 480vac 3 phase with 
output 330A 400v.  So obviously with the split if you plug into 1A and someone 
else plugs into 1B , the initial charge rate will be half of 135KW.  Checking 
out the fast chargers to Orlando.  The self driving dropped out a couple times 
on the freeway, no problem though since going straight.  Once was the sun 
directly in front confusing the cameras and the other was just a computer 
glitch.  Probably needs 3 computers to vote like the Shuttle does if Tesla 
wants to make self driving prime time. 
Stay charged 
Mark








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[EVDL] What Tesla’s bet on iron-based batteries means for manufacturers | TechCrunch

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Here’s a better article on the shift to LiFePo4 batteries that we used in 
conversions.  Mark
https://techcrunch.com/2021/07/28/what-teslas-bet-on-iron-based-batteries-means-for-manufacturers/


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[EVDL] Tesla Launches Entry Model 3 with Newer LFP Battery Tech in the U.S. - TeslaNorth.com

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Hi folks 
Looks like Elon Musk is trying to spin LiFePo4 batteries that we used in our 
conversions as the latest technology.  I wonder if they’re large format cells 
too :-).  
https://teslanorth.com/2021/08/26/tesla-launches-entry-model-3-with-newer-lfp-battery-tech-in-the-u-s/
Best regards 
Mark in Roanoke Va 

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[EVDL] Radio noise issue, proper EMI design

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Hi folks
All the EVs I’ve converted over the years until 2011 , Electro Metro, Cushman, 
Cheese Wedge, Geo Tracker, Porsche 914, Karmann Ghia, I was able to pick up all 
radio stations including AM but mostly listen to NPR on low band FM.  I used to 
design switching power supplies and class D amplifiers to meet FCC part B EMI 
requirements in my day job. 
All power cables a pos-neg (to cancel magnetic RF) are tightly ty wrapped 
together under the far right passenger side underneath the car and all the 
control wires under the left side. The speed control must be as close to the 
motor as possible with short cables (that’s the main EMI source).   You can put 
an inline common mode choke pi filter on the 12V wires feeding the radio but I 
didn’t have to. Just proper layout of power components separate from control 
wiring is the main consideration. 
Best regards 
Mark

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Re: [EVDL] 250V high line effects on solar EVs

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Thanks Lee
My extension cord power company said they won’t do anything unless it hits 7% 
over 240V and since I’m near the substation , I see it 250-252V so the folks at 
the end of the line miles away aren’t too low.  Most local pole peg 
transformers don’t have taps anymore to save $$ so it’s up to the customer to 
put bucking transformers in on sensitive equipment.  Most appliances are power 
loads with the wattage the same as they draw less current (no change in meter 
billing) at a high line condition but solar inverters must run higher than the 
line to push back current.  They use the switching power supply universal 
85-264V operational range so always operating near the high end. I told Enphase 
to bump up their voltage to be mid range operational but they won’t do it due 
to increased cost for higher voltage components.  I can copy the club. I don’t 
have a problem with gmail although sometimes the settings block Outlook email 
and have to reset to allow secondary devices. 
Best regards 
Mark

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 4, 2021, at 1:16 AM, Lee Hart  wrote:

Mark Hanson via EV wrote:
> Hi Cor etc
> I have the same issue, our pole pigs are set to 250V split phase no taps 
> (taps only at local sub station) due to rural feed on an extension cord 
> company (rural coop) so the folks far away get 240ish.  This causes the solar 
> Enphase 64 inverters to hit 264V at 2pm and then pop.  Since Enphase didn’t 
> do a FMEA , I found out from the recorded data, dying on high line after 
> about half of them died. The fix (since the power company refused to change 
> the sun station tap, said they did but didn’t ) is to get two 6.3V toroid 
> core 120V transformers (can not be EI core for idle losses) and put the 
> secondaries out of phase in buck mode in series with each 120V hot side thus 
> reducing the 250V to 237.4V and the inverters no longer drop out at 264V and 
> pop.  My 3 EV charging stations for the Leaf, Bolt and Tesla don’t care since 
> they have wider range switching power supply/chargers in the cars and don’t 
> see over 250V since they’re a load and not a source.

Hi Mark,

I can't post to the EVDL; Earthlink started using Vadesecure last month, and 
the EVDL listserver (and others) won't accept email from it. (grump grump...)

But I wanted to mention I've had exactly the same problem. My line voltage 
tends to be a bit high, and PV pushes it even higher. My Enphase hasn't died 
yet (thankfully), but my Trace Microsine trips off at 126 vac. That prompted me 
to do exactly as you did; I installed a buck/boost transformer to drop the AC 
line voltage a bit so the inverter doesn't trip off.

It's no doubt protecting the Enphase (which I got from you) as well!

Best wishes, and hope you and your family are well.

Lee Hart

-- 
We aren't devoting nearly enough scientific research to find a cure for
the most recent pandemic; contagious stupidity.
   -- paraphrased from Bill Watterson (creator of "Calvin and Hobbes")
--
Lee Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, www.sunrise-ev.com

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[EVDL] 250V high line effects on solar EVs

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Hi Cor etc
I have the same issue, our pole pigs are set to 250V split phase no taps (taps 
only at local sub station) due to rural feed on an extension cord company 
(rural coop) so the folks far away get 240ish.  This causes the solar Enphase 
64 inverters to hit 264V at 2pm and then pop.  Since Enphase didn’t do a FMEA , 
I found out from the recorded data, dying on high line after about half of them 
died. The fix (since the power company refused to change the sun station tap, 
said they did but didn’t ) is to get two 6.3V toroid core 120V transformers 
(can not be EI core for idle losses) and put the secondaries out of phase in 
buck mode in series with each 120V hot side thus reducing the 250V to 237.4V 
and the inverters no longer drop out at 264V and pop.  My 3 EV charging 
stations for the Leaf, Bolt and Tesla don’t care since they have wider range 
switching power supply/chargers in the cars and don’t see over 250V since 
they’re a load and not a source.  Btw, I really love the Tesla Amazing way it 
pre refrigerates the batteries to charge at 250KW seamlessly through the 
highway super chargers. My other EVs don’t come close on trips. 
Have a renewable energy day 
Mark in Roanoke Va

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[EVDL] Fool Cells and the conservation of energy law of physics

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Hi folks 
Peter Van DevWal summed up the dismal overall efficiency of FCV accurately.  We 
just can’t get around the conservation of energy law of physics and the first 
law of thermodynamics (Wikipedia has a good “well to wheels”) explanation no 
matter how much marketing nonsense or incentives are thrown at it.  No one 
wants to hear “their baby is ugly” but in this case it is. 
Stay Charged,
Mark

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[EVDL] GM extends recall to cover all Chevy Bolts due to fire risk | WTOP

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Hi folks
I’ve got a 2020 Bolt, looks like I’m included in all Chevy Bolts but only 10 
fires in 100% charged out of >200k seems smaller than gas car fires to me.  I 
always charge my Leaf, Bolt, Tesla to 80% unless going on a long trip and 
towing the H20 ski boat.  
Have a renewable energy day 
Mark
https://wtop.com/recalls/2021/08/gm-extends-recall-to-cover-all-chevy-bolts-due-to-fire-risk/


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[EVDL] The Tesla Model 3's Aero Wheel Covers Improve Efficiency

[Mark Hanson via EV]

I just noticed that the fan wheel covers blow on the right side of the car and 
suck on the left side since they’re rotating in opposite directions. I wonder 
if that was intentional. Mark
Subject: The Tesla Model 3's Aero Wheel Covers Improve Efficiency

I didn’t know that the fan wheel covered improved range efficiency by 3.4% or 
10 miles.  I was curious how Tesla got to the top of the Wh/mi EPA efficiency 
chart comparing all EVs. 
Mark
https://www.caranddriver.com/news/a30169467/tesla-model-3s-aero-wheel-covers-efficiency-test/


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[EVDL] AutoPilot drops out on tight road turns.

[mark hanson via EV]

Hi Folks,

 

A fellow engineer in California sent me this, apparently the self driving 
feature saw the lane spacing as standard but ran into the concrete lane divider 
and killed him.

 

I really like my Tesla-Y for towing the boat, seamless long distance 
travel/fast charging but I’ll hold off on buying the $10K self driving option 
for my wife (who has trouble driving now) until it’s approved by a third party 
testing like NHSTA.  When My Chevy Bolt or Nissan Leaf poops out, I’ll probably 
buy a Tesla-3 but won’t use the AutoPilot (unless on long straight 
highways/trips with no decisions) or self driving option.

 

From: William Hennessy 
Sent: Saturday, July 10, 2021 1:08 PM
To: 'Mark Hanson'
Subject: RE: AutoPilot drops out on tight road turns.

 

An at that, a respected government agency that’s not been compromised by 
political donations… 

 

My 2018 Honda CR-V has adaptive cruise control and lane keeping assist for 
highway use and it works pretty well, but gets upset when you take your hands 
off the wheel for more than a couple seconds. It also has collision avoidance 
braking assist which will slam on the brakes if it determines an impact is 
imminent. The adaptive cruise control’s low speed follow mode is great for rush 
hour stop and go traffic and will go to zero speed and resume if traffic is 
creeping along. I ran a test on it one day when driving through LA and was on 
cruise control at about 75; I could see traffic was stopped about half a mile 
ahead of me and normally would let off the gas and coast to the stoppage, but I 
let the cruise control do its thing to see when (or if) it would detect the 
stoppage and attempt to stop the car. At about 100 yards out I took over and 
stopped manually and I’m convinced the car would not have managed to stop 
itself in that situation. The problem as I understand it is that the radars 
used in these cars do not have adequate range to detect the traffic and react 
in time to avoid a collision at highway speeds and that the video image 
processing in the Honda is not advanced enough to evaluate the situation. I 
like to believe the Tesla sensors and software is significantly more advanced 
and capable; and for the price difference it should be… I think we paid about 
$28K for the Honda two years ago. 

 

This is the Google Map view of approach to ramp where the Tesla Model X 
accident occurred in 2018… It’s a left hand exit and the yellow striped divider 
is a collapsible energy absorbing design. Unfortunately the mechanism had been 
impacted a week earlier and had not been reset at the time of the accident. I 
don’t know of the driver was intent on taking the exit or remaining in the fast 
lane; however, assuming he was going to work at Apple he would have normally 
exited to Hwy 85 south from that location. And there are right and left exits 
to do that, the left exit being for carpool only (I don’t think there’s a 
FasTrak pass for those roads). So, is it conceivable that the Tesla navigation 
system glitched and knew it wanted to go south on 85 but saw it was going to 
miss the right hand exit and instead tried (too late) for the express lane 
exit? It’s an interesting story because the owner of the car, an Apple 
engineer, had previously informed Tesla about the car’s propensity to veer into 
this divider. Now one would think that as a curious engineer, who was aware of 
the problem, that it would have prompted his close attention when approaching 
this exit ramp.  
https://www.iihs.org/news/detail/fatal-tesla-crash-highlights-risk-of-partial-automation

 



 



 

From: Mark Hanson 
Sent: Saturday, July 10, 2021 06:56
Subject: Re: AutoPilot drops out on tight road turns.

 

Thanks Bud

It appears that AutoPilot comes with all Tesla’s for highway use and the $10k 
extra software download option is for full self driving option like taking you 
to work on back country roads that starts and stops at traffic lights. I just 
have the highway “Autopilot “ that comes with the car but sounds like it can 
get confused with anything out of the ordinary like added unexpected barriers.  
I’ve used it on trips on big divided highways monotonous driving.  I noticed it 
occasionally drops out , I guess when the software gets confused, but didn’t 
think much of it.  Of course that can be deadly on a tight turn country road 
like what happened to my friend when he hit a tree.  Sounds like in the article 
there was an unexpected barrier that the software got confused with. 

Probably best to not turn it on, certainly on short trips. 

There needs to be some third party testing so folks can feel comfortable with 
spending the extra $10k for full self driving.  I also bought the Tesla so 
Teresa could use that feature as she’s having trouble driving now but after my 
friends accidents and the recent info on the EVDL about unexpected drop outs, 
don’t think I’ll be buying the $10k feature anytime soon unless verified by a 
respected government agency. 

[EVDL] Interesting video about new FSD version

[mark hanson via EV]

Hi Folks,

 

I was thinking of buying the $10K self driving mode (option) for my wife who 
has trouble driving now – but it looks like the software can’t anticipate every 
anomaly.  

 

From: L. David Roper 
Sent: Sunday, July 11, 2021 8:34 PM
To: Mark Hanson
Subject: Interesting video about new FSD version

 

https://electrek.co/2021/07/10/tesla-full-self-driving-beta-v9-first-videos-release-notes/

 

 

Have a renewable energy day,

 

Mark

 

Mark E. Hanson

184 Vista Lane

Fincastle, VA 24090

540-473-1248 phone & FAX, 540-816-0812 cell

REEVA: community service RE & EV project club

Website: www.REEVAdiy.org (See Project Gallery)

UL Certified PV Installer

My RE Circuits: www.EVDL.org/lib/mh  

REEVA Demo: http://youtu.be/4kqWn2H-rA0

 

 

 

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[EVDL] AutoPilot drops out on tight road turns.

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Hi EV folks

After talking with my friend who crashed his Tesla3 about what was noted today 
on the EVDL that sometimes on sharp country road turns - the AutoPilot drops 
out (thus hitting a tree).   This appears to be what happened.  In engineering 
this fault mode would be considered a fatal flaw but for Tesla it looks like 
it’s a “feature”. 
Since the autopilot drops out , it's then not recorded as an Autopilot 
accident.  How convieeenient for Tesla. 
I’ll just drive mine in regular bimbo mode on country roads, although I think 
it’s fairly safe on the highway. 

Best regards 
Mark in Roanoke Va

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[EVDL] Tesla's Self Driving Feature

[mark hanson via EV]

Hi Folks,

 

I use the base AutoPilot on my Y on long trips (appears to only work on
painted freeways) that relieves fatigue going down an extended highway but
*didn't* buy the full self driving feature for an additional $10K.  I really
like the car now after the first week in March (steep learning curve, no
dealer info).  The confusion is similar names for the full self driving
option in Tesla speak.  

 

A friend's wife totaled a model 3 on a country road (in full self driving
mode $10K extra) coming up to a non standard stop sign on a T and  hit a
close building (brick wall).  It was in an old town where a building was too
close to the road about 10' (not current set back requirements).  Apparently
the software misses non standard situations.  So the couple bought another
model 3 and also purchased the option self driving feature again.  This time
my friend was driving on another country road (no center line) and in one of
the turns, the car hit a tree, totaled a second Tesla-3 - (two in two
years).  He has some medical issues from the accident.

 

I guess I'm old fashioned, I'm happy with an electric car that just runs J ,
don't need all the extra foo-foo electric nose-pickers.  I really like the
seamless long trip fast charging, pre-cools the pack to get 200KW in & zaps
it up quickly 20 minutes 20-80% by just putting in the destination address &
routes you to in between fast charging stations.  The cord is short & have
to back up since the port is in the rear & if towing have to detach (unlike
the Chevy Bolt).  But the Tesla is more comfortable on long trips.

 

I suspect that the accident rate for the full self driving feature is
probably underreported though.  

 

Have a renewable energy day,

 

Mark

 

Mark E. Hanson

184 Vista Lane

Fincastle, VA 24090

540-473-1248 phone, 540-816-0812 cell

REEVA: community service RE & EV project club

Website: www.REEVAdiy.org (See Project Gallery)

UL Certified PV Installer

My RE Circuits: www.EVDL.org/lib/mh 

REEVA Demo:   http://youtu.be/4kqWn2H-rA0 

 

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Re: [EVDL] Vandalism charge for charging EV?

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Ps, yes that’s the Hilton

Sent from my iPhone

On May 30, 2021, at 4:29 PM, Mark Hanson  wrote:

Hi folks
I’m at 1 Beach drive Myrtle Beach listed on EV Hotels/PlugShare as an EV 
destination hotel.  They have a large parking garage servicing several hotels 
with only two charging stations , one J1772 and one Tesla.  After paying $1100 
for 3 nights I was told by the guard if I parked next to the other Tesla (that 
has been charged for two days) and moved the cable, I would be charged with 
Vandalism!   Have you ever heard of that ?  He also said he would NOT contact 
either car owner in the hotel and ask them to move their cars that were fully 
charged.  He said to go to a public pay for charging station.  Next time I’ll 
just stay in a cheaper non EV rated hotel and charge with the general riff 
raff. 
Stay charged
Mark

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[EVDL] Vandalism charge for charging EV?

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Hi folks
I’m at 1 Beach drive Myrtle Beach listed on EV Hotels/PlugShare as an EV 
destination hotel.  They have a large parking garage servicing several hotels 
with only two charging stations , one J1772 and one Tesla.  After paying $1100 
for 3 nights I was told by the guard if I parked next to the other Tesla (that 
has been charged for two days) and moved the cable, I would be charged with 
Vandalism!   Have you ever heard of that ?  He also said he would NOT contact 
either car owner in the hotel and ask them to move their cars that were fully 
charged.  He said to go to a public pay for charging station.  Next time I’ll 
just stay in a cheaper non EV rated hotel and charge with the general riff 
raff. 
Stay charged
Mark

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[EVDL] Tesla now using cameras only

[Mark Hanson via EV]

Hi folks
Eliminating Lidar and Radar on Tesla’s 3 and Y is a cost cutting measure.  All 
manufacturing companies are constantly reducing costs, maximizing profits.  
Best regards
Mark

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