I have operated several RCA TAC-200 mobiles converted to repeaters and
experienced the intermittent kerchunking problem with each of them. It
seems the squelch circuit generates short spikes on the CAS output, even
with the squelch set rather tight. My solution on each of them was to
build a
There is a simple way to have a reliable backup battery system without a
relay. Try this:
Connect your fused repeater power cable directly to the battery terminals,
without any intervening devices. Connect your power supply to the battery
through a single Schottky diode. Adjust the power
Paul, the NHRC-2 uses an opto isolator in the input COR circuit and it
can be a little hard to drive from the GE COS signal. You might try
using the RUS signal as your COR input and see how that goes. If RUS is
not following the COR, you might have to cut a jumper (H-41 to H-42 on
the System
If the tunable stub is connectorized, then just add a 90 degree
connector in line to make it a bit longer.
No connectors on the tuning stub. The coupling loop is built into the
stub and it extends at a right angle from the loop insert. A single N
connector opposite the tuning stub
Jim - W5ZIT wrote:
I am trying to move a Q 202 G from the 170 mHz range down to the 147 mHz
range and have run into a problem on the notch tuning. The high pass
tuning works like a charm and has a good pass and notch characteristic.
The low pass side is another story. The pass tuning works
-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Jim Brown [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Jim - W5ZIT wrote:
I am trying to move a Q 202 G from the 170 mHz range down to the
147 mHz
range and have run into a problem on the notch tuning. The high pass
tuning works like a charm and has a good pass
The loops can be rotated a slight amount, as they are mounted in round holes on
top of the vertical cavities with the notch tuning rods extending horizontally
from the loop assembly. Three screws clamp the assembly to the can. The rods
would interfere with the cavity beside it if rotated more
Nate, the RC-1000 is programmed by opening the controller for
programming input by sending two code sequences. The unlock sequence
has a 'D' prefix hard wired and can't be changed as I recall, with two
additional characters. A typical sequence would be something like 'D7B'
and D7C'. The
Access to the AXX and DXX control codes can be enabled or disabled
with two
control codes; Control Code enable and Control Code disable. When
disabled the
only control code to function is the Control Code Enable. These codes
do NOT
affect access to the * and # user codes.
The above
I guess I should not have introduced the 'lock' and 'unlock' terminology
Nate, but you are on the right track. There are a lot of different
controllers and some use the lock/unlock terms and it just stuck with me
- HI. Yes - to protect some of the controls from casual changes by
designated
Eric, take a look at the MCC RC-100 controller. It does what you want,
and is a VERY mature design. I put the first one I own on the air in
1984 I think.
73 - Jim
Yahoo! Groups Links
* To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/
* To
I am trying to upload the 4.0 firmware in my RC-110 and having no luck.
Queries to Arcom are being ignored with no response. The controller
with the ver 3.1 firmware is unusable.
The basicx program referenced in the 110 manual has a checksum if you
download it and try to unzip. So no luck
Hi Jim
Sorry but I never saw an email from you (we are quite good at providing
timely responses when we're aware of a question!). My apologies for your
request not being answered up to this point.
I'm not exactly sure what you're asking. Are you saying you're having
problems with NetMedia's
---Hi Jim. Well, we have no connection (nor control) with NetMedia and you
need to contact them directly about their software. I'm afraid I don't know
of an alternate download source for the software other than them.
Have you tried contacting them?
Ken
Ken, how does Arcom upload the
I purchased a complete BX-24 development system a couple of years ago had
no problem uploading my program into the BX-24. I also just downloaded the
downloader from http://www.basicx.com/downloads/bx-setup-210-program.zip,
installed it compared the files to the ones I used during
Shane, I would always hook up the COS as well as the CTCSS decode for
one reason. The controller will cut off the audio to the repeater
transmitter as soon as the COS signal goes away. The CTCSS decode will
always hang a few hundred milliseconds and cause a long squelch break on
the repeater
For those who can't be there,
mms://66.231.242.90/video
Bob NO6B
Looks like you guys got rained out Sunday -
Yahoo! Groups Links
* To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/
* To unsubscribe from this group, send an email
Dave,
Keep in mind that the Midland 13-509 was built for the Amateur Radio market,
and the transmit crystals are only specified to maintain .001%, which is 10
PPM. There is no temperature compensation in the crystal circuit, and you
may make the drift worse by using an NPO capacitor. If you
I have a tone encoder circuit board with no markings that uses a
MC68HC705J1ACDW processor to encode the tones. It has six switches to
select the tone and has five wires leading from the interface connector.
Wire colors are Red, Black, Yellow, Orange, and Gray. Can anyone help
me identify
I took a look at the SS-64 on line and sure enough, my unit matches that
picture. For some reason I can't download the PDF file from Com Spec -
it is blocked by both Netscape and IE. I can get the TS-64 all OK, but
not the SS-64.
I would guess the encode switches for selecting the tone are
I found my problem. I was just getting a couple of horizontal lines of
the file when I did finally get it downloaded, including the copy that
was sent via the list. I have been using Adobe Reader 5 and it reads
the other Com Spec files all OK. I upgraded to Adobe Reader 6 and my
problems
I am sending this again as it never showed up here reflected from the group.
Original Message
Subject:Re: [Repeater-Builder] CTCSS encoder
Date: Thu, 25 May 2006 09:18:21 -0500
From: Jim Brown [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
References
Morning Bob, thanks for the tips and info, the page proved quite
helpful. The VHF units are indeed the 56 in the 130 to 150 Mhz range,
and the UHF units are the 77's, 406-420 Mhz range, I'm hoping they
will make it up to the 434 Mhz range. I have 4 of the recievers that
has already
Anyone know what has happened to the RC-110 Group? Wonder if it is a
personal problem or has the group been disbanded?
Hello,
Your request to join the rc110 group was not approved.
Your membership was automatically rejected because the moderator didn't
approve it within 14 days. We do this to
I interfaced an RC-210 port 3 to EchoLink for a friend, and had no
problem with the interface. The RC-210 was missing a land in the audio
path for port 3 and we had to add a wire jumper on the RC-210 board to
correct that, but the interface to EchoLink worked with no problem. We
used a
Very good, understood most of that. I have the unit hooked up, and
got the reciever to work just fine, the transmitter is working, so now
I have a unit with a 440 transmit and a 2 meter receiver. Now here is
where I got lost, how do I tie them so that when a signal is heard on
two
Now here is
where I got lost, how do I tie them so that when a signal is heard on
two meters, it keys the 440 transmitter and sends the audio out to the
transmitter. You mention that I need to take a voltage to the to the
receiver oscillator, can you point me in the right direction,
There is a 3 pin cord on the PA on the back of the radio, do you know
what this was for? And does it need to be reconnected. Thanks.
Mathew
That sounds like the antenna relay control line. Yes - it needs to be
connected to the amp and should be connected to the large board on the
One more question, knowing the whomever I get the xtals from will have
the specs for them, is there anything I need to know additionally
about them before I order them.
Thanks.
Mathew
I use Bomar and have had really good luck with them. Order your receive
crystals for both bands
Hello Group,
I am completely new to VOIP, so I need some direction. I have two
repeaters with remote base ports that I would like to tie together via
internet connection. Can you direct me to a page or tell me where I
can get info on what equipment I need to tie audio and logic
connections
I have really enjoy the cheap antenna qso and it leads to my question.
I have scavenged a DB 224-A that reads 150 to 160 and I was wondering
if it is possible to lengthen the elements to make it more ham
friendly? I am talking cutting each folded dipole in four places and
welding in
The biggest problem you would have with the MFJ is signal leakage from
your source signal. Any signal that bypasses the duplexer and gets
directly to the signal detector will prevent you from properly tuning
the duplexer.
I use a transmitter to tune a duplexer. Put 50 ft or so of RG-58 cable
Just a brief note on two towers I had installed for over 35 years. I used
three of the Radio Shack mast base mounts in the ground to support the tower
with Rhon house brackets. These units consisted of a square metal plate, about
six inches, with an 18 inch piece of sharpened angle welded to
Kantronics built dual speed TNCs with a provision to prevent the problem Eric
describes. It would allow you to interface both speeds to one radio and a
parameter can be set to prevent them from both trying to transmit at the same
time.
73 - Jim W5ZIT
Eric Lemmon [EMAIL PROTECTED]
A trick I used years ago for audio FSK RTTY on two meters was to put a
frequency divider behind the 555. Generating the 2125 and 2295 frequencies for
transmitting was done at 10 times the freq in the 555, and a resistor was
switched in the 555 timing circuit to shift the frequency. Doing it
Any new repeater coordination in Texas MUST have CTCSS or DCS access, no
exception. Only older coordinations are grandfathered with open squelch
access. It just does not make any sense to put on a repeater these days
without some kind of access control.
Unfortunately, some hams equate
On the E-4 aircraft we delivered to the Air Force, the wire was about 1/4 inch
at the aircraft end and tapered down to around 1/8 inch at the drogue at the
far end. (to keep the wire from whipping around in the slipstream). We could
never deploy the wire over the US, but had to go down to the
We called that hatchet a guillotine on the KC-135 Looking Glass and the E-4
(747) aircraft. And on one flight on the E-4 I was on, we had to cut the wire
and drop it in the gulf when it jammed while reeling it back in.
By the way, I was hooked up to the Secret Service blade antenna (no
We have a different use for tone access here in the mountains in New Mexico.
For years the club has operated two repeaters on the same frequency, with one
serving as a back up in case the primary goes down. This ment that a control
operator had to notice that the primary had gone down and
Ray, see if you can track down the other side of the resistor that feeds your
receive LED. The voltage swing there should be a lot more than you see on the
LED itself.
73 - Jim W5ZIT
Ray Rosler [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
- Original Message - From: Ray Rosler
Return it to Arcom for a new chip or for reprogramming. Any reputable
controller manufacturer should offer service for 5 or 6 years after delivering
a unit.
73 - Jim W5ZIT
n3gh_1 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I recently purchased a used RC-110 Controller.(all I can afford)
Somehow
: Jim Brown
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2007 4:13 PM
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Arcom RC-110 help!
Return it to Arcom for a new chip or for reprogramming. Any reputable
controller manufacturer should offer service for 5 or 6 years after
Our local club recently installed a 2 meter repeater on a water tank adjacent
to a cell site. Two cell towers are serviced by four buildings housing
equipement, and we are having some desense due to noise pickup on the antenna.
Running an iso-tee we found that our GE Mastr II receiver with GE
I had my car stolen in Las Vegas several years ago, and if I had not brought my
license receipt with me to show the secretary who took my report, I would not
have convinced her that I had given her the right plate number. ( Stolen cars
are so common in Las Vegas, NV that they will not even
I use several Zetron Z38A controllers that I obtained surplus on amateur
repeaters and make use of the CTCSS encode and decode built into this
controller. (Vintage 1988) Even back then the controller provided for
terminating the transmit CTCSS as soon as the user un-keys. Or you can program
I obtained a pair of DB4018-2 cavities (300-400 mHz on the nameplate) at a
hamfest and finally tore into them to see if I could make something worthwhile
in the way of frequency coverage out of them. Tests showed that they barely
made it up to 400 mHz on the high end, so I disassembled them
I think the ID in DTMF you are talking about is the user ID which is
transmitted at the end of a transmission as the bubble up. The DTMF sequence
is the user number.
If you want to have the Z38A transmit an ID every 15 minutes in Morse whether
it has been active or not, put a user number
Did you order the receive crystal for high side injection? A radio starting in
the range you have usually will tune right up with no oscillation problems if
the crystal is on the high side of the receive frequency. No mods are usually
required at all for moving a radio into the ham band if
Al, I would program the Z38A the way you have with one change. I am sure the
system ID should be the same as the user ID, so instead of assigning the system
ID to an unused user ID, I would use the user ID as the system ID. Just enter
the user number for the tone you are using for normal user
One suggestion is to go to a simple ground plane antenna, and mount it upside
down on top of your terminal building. The gain in an antenna will concentrate
the radiation out on the horizon, which is not what you want. The upside down
ground plane with no gain might be your best bet to have
John, for your application I would suggest buying a GE Mastr II mobile UHF
radio and modifying it for repeater use. It is very simple to configure, and
all the info you will need is on the repeater-builder site. I have several of
these units in service and have been very pleased with the
I use Bomar these days for crystals for the ham bands. I have had good luck
installing them myself and re-adjusting them in a year or so back to the right
frequency.
I recently worked on a GE Delta radio that had been crystaled using CUMEX and
found the receive crystal had drifted over 2
Look inside the unit and find the ram IC that is plugged into the Dallas
Semiconductor battery backup chip. Remove the ram IC from the battery backup
chip for several seconds and plug it back in. It will default back to the
factory original 12123.
The controller will not be in the
This may be out in left field, but I have built several repeaters using the
CAT300 controller (not the CAT200) and the 300 had no way to de-emphasize the
discriminator audio. I have used an external series 15 K and shunt .22 cap to
supply the discriminator audio to the CAT300 and it sounds
Be sure to align pin 1 with the socket and with the Dallas Semiconductor
Battery Backup and the memory chip and plug them into U15. My units do not
even have sockets installed in U16, but I suspect the two locations are pretty
much in parallel except for an address line to give the unit more
I recently did some maintainence on a repeater that
went on the air in the San Antonio TX area in January
this year. In the time it has been on the air it
accumulated 135 hours of key down use from local
users. This does not count the time it was key down
by remote users (EchoLink). So a pretty
Joe, I bought 4 GE Mastr II 48 mHz exciters off Ebay
back during the summer for $1.25 each and they all
tuned up on the only xtal I had in the six meter band
- 53.4 mHz. They can be a bear to tune, so just be
patient if you come up with one of them to move into
the band.
It took me quite a
Paul Choc (WA5IHL) put up his system (Megalink) after
Milt Jensen (N5IA) and associates operated the ZIA
Connection for years that covered New Mexico, Southern
Arizona, and Southern California. No operator
controls were necessary and the sites stayed connected
all the time.
As I recall the
David, try using one or two band pass only cavaties in
the receive side instead of the BpBr type. The BpBr
filters often do not discriminate against signals far
off the pass frequency, and you may not be getting
enough rejection out of your input cavities.
73 - Jim W5ZIT
--- David Epley [EMAIL
The cable I used was armored with a spiral copper
shield over 5 twisted pair lines. I did try grounding
the shield at one end, and at both ends with no
results. Putting caps across the twisted pair and to
ground also did not eliminate the problem, but did
reduce it. I used 600:600 isolation
I guess it depends on what you would call 'better'. I
know this circuit works, and it uses the stockpile of
4011 chips I bought at a sidewalk sale in Dallas back
in the '70s from left over TI testing. I don't know
what kind of tests were run on them, but I have not
found a bad one, and have had
I have never measured the distortion, but I do try to
keep the maximum voltage swing down to a tenth of the
supply voltage. The CMOS logic will operate all the
way from 5 to 15 volts or so, and at the higher supply
voltages you can have more audio voltage swing.
I don't notice any distortion by
Skip, I did have transformer coupling on the audio
lines out at the repeater with both sides of the
twisted pair isolated from ground, but did not try
putting transformers in the line back at the computer.
That would certainly be easy enough to do if I ever
hook it up again. One side of the
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Hi Jim,
How 'bout posting your circuit to the Group's file
or picture area so
we all can enjoy it?
Jeff
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Jim Brown
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Kevin, here is a circuit that I have used several
times to combine a control
I put a VHF repeater together this summer in a
Stromberg Carlson cabinet that the phone company
retired and had to install a fan in the top of the
cabinet to get the heat removed. The cabinet was
insulated with one inch foam on top, bottom, sides and
doors. It was a side-by-side rack cabnet with
I agree. This rack had the mounting for the fans, but
they had been stripped out by the time it made it to
us. The hard part was figuring out just what
dimension fan would fit -
73 - Jim W5ZIT
--- Barry C' [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Very familiar with these , wonderfully well made and
As has been pointed out by a couple of folks now,
change the part number for the IC from CA4011 to
CD4011. It is a CMOS quad two input NAND gate. Also
I have uploaded a much more readable version of the
schematic along with the free download site of the
viewer for the schematic.
73 - Jim W5ZIT
Not so Ron. Give it a try - you might be surprised.
I have been using the 4011 CMOS logic in audio
circuits for 30 years and have not been disapointed in
the audio quality in any of the circuits I have used
them in. That feedback resistor from the output to
one of the inputs converts it to a
Actually it must be pretty common on the wireless
distribution ISP systems. I know of one in San
Antonio that was set up that way, and one in New
Mexico that had a public IP address for customers till
they lost a port and it went to private. The one here
gave us a public IP address for a couple
Robert, I have a DB-224 with a DB-? (four bays high with opposed dipoles at
each bay) 440 antenna operating on the same mast, and have had good results. I
first tried it with a diplexer up at the antenna and a single feedline, but had
problems with that set up. When I went to separate
line. Also curious as to what size tower you were on. This is going
on a Rohn SSV (I think that is it. Pretty big tripod type of free
standing tower). Curious how far out from the tower it was.
Thanks!
Robert
KD4YDC
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Jim Brown [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Robert
Joe, that common problem you are remembering is the strap between the final and
the input of the low pass filter. The fix is the so called 'inchworm' mod
which is described in past posts and at the repeater builder site, as I recall.
It involves putting a piece of solder removal braid between
A simple solution is to use a PNP transistor in
emitter follower configuration, with the base to your
150 mA source and the emitter to your 400 mA load, and
the collector to ground. A power transistor with the
case to the collector (which is normal) could be
mounted directly on the chassis with
Since he was 'sinking' 150 mA from his source, I would
assume he is using the fan control output from a
controller, and he didn't have enough sink current.
You usually don't talk about 'sink' current on a TTL
output.
Also, no inverter is required on the circuit I
described. If a grounded
I would put an ammeter in series with the receiver and
check the current being drawn. You may have a filter
cap going bad and the current may be up near the 1 Amp
fuse rateing. Sometimes a fuse being operated near
its rateing will not blow immediately, but will blow
hours after it is replaced.
Willis, I have used a simple diode circuit in several
repeaters I have converted to battery backup. I like
the solid state solution more than a mechanical relay
for reliability.
The circuit is as follows:
Place a diode in series with the output of your power
supply. (it can be the internal
If the spur is causing a particular problem to someone
and is caused by some harmonic of the LO chain beating
with the transmitter, you could move the beat by
changing to the opposite side injection on the
receiver. Check the new beat frequencies to make sure
you are not just trading one problem
Randy, a method I have used a couple of times is to
take an old computer card back-panel with a cutout for
a 9 or 25 pin connector and bend it so that it picks
up a couple of screws on the rear of the card cage top
or bottom. (You kept those and did not throw them away
did'nt you) I then wired the
Yep - I used the info on the Repeater-Builder site to
identify the pick off points where the signals are
found, and soldered directly to the backside of the
pin that the boards plug into on the other side. You
can figure out which points they are by looking at a
schematic of the card cage also.
Ben, I have a buddy in Deltona FL with exactly the
same problem. He tried his on several different
computers and had no luck at all.
He sent his RFGuys programmer to me, as I have one and
it works like a charm. His also worked like a charm
for me. So would probably do you no good to send it
Bob, I have four repeaters in service using a Zetron
38A controller, and had the following experience.
When I enabled the courtesy tone at the end of a
transmission a station that was on the edge and
'picket fencing' would be unreadable for all the beeps
the controller would insert. It seems the
Mike, the programmer I got from RFGuys is for the
X2212 EEPROM. They do make one for the chips for the
Motorola radios also, but the GE programmer is for the
X2212.
73 - Jim W5ZIT
--- Mike Morris WA6ILQ [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
At 01:30 PM 12/14/07, you wrote:
Just got a programmer to burn
I have read several Phoenix chips and have programmed
for several here on the list, with varied results. I
don't have a Phoenix to check out myself, but several
of the chips I programmed worked and some did not. I
programmed two for one fellow here on the list and one
worked for him and one did
One comment on using the Alinco radios. A buddy ran
one on EchoLink and had some cooling issues. He wound
up putting a muffin fan near the radio, and then had a
hum issue due to coupling to the fan motor. So plan
your install carefully with respect to cooling, and
take care not to get into the
MFJ marketed that board also. I think it was an
MFJ-52, but not sure.
You have to make a packet connection to the TNC using
the X1J4 firmware and the TNC will respond with the
deviation and signal strength of each station in the
MHeard list. You can also query for supply voltage
and
Attn Mike Morris or any other custodian for the LBI
list:
I can't get the reporting link to work, but here is
the error message I got:
404 Not Found The requested URL
/ge/lbi-library/lbi-38179a.pdf does not exist.
I am able to get to the other LBIs that I have tried,
so wanted to report
We were given a nice site on top of a bank building
along with a local FM radio station for a packet
nodeseveral years ago. After the rice box radios that
were tried fell on their face, I installed a GE Mastr
Exec which survived the FM station nicely, only to be
tossed out a year or so later when
I have found that the main problem in using a talkie
as the receiver for tuning the notch in a duplexer is
the possible leakage of RF between the signal source
directly into the talkie. Most talkies are not
shielded at all, and any leakage will cause you to
tune a combination of the signal
Here is a thought - I got caught on this once upon a
time - the dip switches on the CTCSS board have to be
OFF in the indicated positions to decode the tone you
want - not ON as you would expect.
73 - Jim W5ZIT
--- Brian Romine [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Ok here's the deal, have a MASTR II
I remember working through one in Boston that said it
was running a full KW several years ago.
73 - Jim W5ZIT
--- skipp025 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
For a short time it's very interesting to hear a
quarter kilowatt
repeater in one location across the country compete
with another
To recommend what to do, the first thing is to
determine which type of Q202G duplexer you have. Here
is the manual on an older type that has the variable
tubular dialectric to tune the notch. Eric Lemmon
scanned this one and posted it for the group. Later
types do not use the same technique to
Our club operates two repeaters on the same channel
using two different tones, and all works fine. In our
case, we wanted to have instant backup in case one
repeater went down (one is solar powered) and all the
user had to do was switch tone frequencies and use the
other repeater.
They are not
Ian, our ham club has talked about putting one of
their repeaters on a different frequency and linking
them together. We operate both on the same frequency
now, one at a time with separate tones.
My proposal to them was to put a receiver at each site
for the other repeater and in-band link them.
Ian, I think you missed my comment on the way the
extra receiver implementation would work. I proposed
using a circuit that gives priority to the regular
repeater receiver for that system. This would lock
out the auxillary receiver during input on one
repeater, and by transmitting CTCSS only
Ian, here is my thinking. When site 1 has a signal on
the repeater input, the signal from site 2 is blocked
because of the circuit that gives precedence to the
local site repeater receiver. When a site 1 user
unkeys, there will be no CTCSS tone coming back from
site 2 to key the site 1 repeater.
www.kerinvalecomaudio.com.au
---Original Message---
From: Jim Brown
Date: 4/01/2008 8:25:48 AM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Linking two shared
repeaters
Ian, here is my thinking. When site 1 has a signal
on
the repeater input, the signal from site 2 is
blocked
I had a DB-224 that had been up for 20+ years and
found the same thing. It was not upside down but one
of the coax center conductors had disentegrated inside
one of those moulded junctions. I cut it open and
there was nothing left of the center conductor.
It is still in service with the top
Contact Rick - [EMAIL PROTECTED]
He and KE5MWM converted a bunch of these radios to the
six meter ham band, and I think they had several
manuals.
73 - Jim W5ZIT
--- Bob M. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Naturally these are NLA, none are left, no PDF file,
nada.
P/N 6880102W95 T81X.. series.
Take it seriously when they say something has been
proved to cause cancer. I have a buddy who lost his
leg to cancer and they traced it back to a solvent he
used as a jet engine mechanic in the Air Force. He
managed to live through it, but minus a leg. They
proved beyond a doubt that it was the
Paul, I think where the problem with your measurements comes up is that your 41
inches of RG-8 is close to 3/4 wave at 2 meters, not 1/2 wave. Taking a rough
estimate of 19 inches for a quarter wave on 2 meters (the approximate length of
your quarter wave ground plane vertical element) you
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