Is there anybody with 100 percent?
Willing to admit it?
Here 17 of 20.
--
73...Clark Beckman N8PZD
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
If it hasn't been pointed out previously, a visit to the
repeater-builder web site would be the second or third place to take a
virtual trip into repeaters. The first 2 places would be equipment
manufacturers web sites to gain some idea on the cost of new and another
would be with a tower
Sounds like a rather complex repeater needing 2 of each, are you using
the uhf for a link? If so you would want to use a 3 or 5 element beam
and not a omni-directional pair. It is very hard to beat folded dipoles
like the decibel 224 on 2 meters, there are other outfits making similar
stuff and
468 X freq / velocity factor = physical length, add 1/2 for pl connector
soldering.
ian wells wrote:
I am trying to build a 70-80mhz duplexer for a repeater .would anyone know
of some good pages about making your own cable harness to join the cavity
tins together
thanks ian
--
73...Clark
You may get this to work if you are the only source of RF in the
vicinity, however if you have other cabinets of equipment creating
anything that contains RF, you will be in need of shielding - double
shielding that is.
Regarding aluminum feedline construction, if you take all the
precautions to
What is normal operation? It seems in todays heavily populated sites
many installers have to make mounting choices a little closer than the
spacing needed to operate full duplex with isolation so then more
hardware is used at the bottom of the ladder to clear away the noise.
If the resonant
Tough call, both are terrific choices considering the correct split -
the micor uses no computerized anything, just plain old hardware. If you
can obtain manuals for both you will have to toss a coin, I would take
them both as many parts are interchangeable between them.
Ted Maczulat wrote:
We
Mike, if you list your repeater as having weather alerts you will be
fine. It is an alert for the hams to be aware of decaying weather and
the need to participate with an actual skywarn net, you should choose
only the coverage areas your users will need (I am snickering at this)
and have only
Make a multi-coupler out of a stick of hardline, take your ports every
1/4 electrical wavelength using a 3-5 pf cap, seal everything with
copper tape or aluminum autobody shop tape - hold back the flames on the
aluminum please this is not going to be flexed like tower feedline.
nu5o wrote:
They are crystals, call a xtal house for your frequency. They just plug
into the places on the board.
Davies, Doug A FOR:EX wrote:
I am in need of two ICOM's, one transmit and one receive for a hi-band VHF
GE Mastr Pro repeater. If anyone has these, please lt me know.
Doug VA7DD
For ideas visit repeater-builder dot com web site, you may want to
contact a local 2 way radio shop to see if they have equipment on that
tower and about getting help with equipment and setting it up on your
pair. Most ham repeaters are made from 2 or 3 generation back commercial
radios that were
Not Edsel, that was a great car before it's time - like the dusenburg.
Spectrum is like a first time go cart, have motor will travel,
delivering newspapers in your hometown tomorrow and replacing the pony
express next week.
NØATH wrote:
Edsel perhaps?
- Original Message -
From: mch
I doubt if this can be used anymore as the spectrum is narrow band, if
this is 4 or 5 plus years old it may be moved to ham band?
Daniel V. Keane wrote:
I have recently acquired a Regency Repeater. I know nothing about it
and am looking for any information or manuals. The crystals will
How many cavities do you have for 500kc split? A transistor pa with 1
meg takes at least 4 to run 40 watts, this is a split site? Is your
antenna a shunt style?
John Clark wrote:
Has anyone had any success or failure in using a 60 watt Mitrek for a
repeater on a 500 kHz seperation?
Should I
The first thing you will nedd here is a real antenna or 2, j-poles are
very poor humidity stability of swr - radios connected to these antennas
live very short lives. I doubt if you will be able to insure a site with
a homeade antenna anyway. How much isolation do your notch filters offer
on the
What is the application you are looking for? The aluminum feedlines do
not do duplex very well except for short runs, the added expense of
supporting fingers and hardware makes 9913 useless in the outdoor world.
Belden does publish some numbers as tested in the lab, andrews has the
numbers out
I am suprised nobody offered to sell the spectrum fixer some wingnuts?
Maybe he already has some or slides with hairpin cotters?
JOHN MACKEY wrote:
WOW!! Coy said he went with the spectrum because of money. Now this
offer of a straight trade is one he can't pass up due to the money issue!!
The helicals are the same, the board layout is different but the
layering of components is very close meaning the if stages - there are
some parts the exact same. The executive line does not have the dual
squelch stuff that was the big thing in 72 when that idea debuted, you
will find it pretty
Cold solder joint on one of the diode inside?
rtoplus wrote:
Hi folks
It appears as if my bird 43 meter has flown south for the winter.
It reads slightly but only slightly. I've tried multiple radios,
multiple bands, and multiple slugs...no avail. Any ideas how to
bring this rascal
Subject: HIRED
An office manager was given the task of hiring an individual to fill a
job opening. After sorting through a stack of resumes he found four
people who were equally qualified. He decided to call the four in and
ask them only one question. Their answer would determine which of them
McMaster Carr, mail order - good selection always in stock, a local
outfit I buy out of in Cleveland, Ohio is Martin on Industrial Parkway -
zip 44135.
drwoolweaver wrote:
Anyone know a cheap source for SS hardware? Bolts, nuts, washers,
etc. Thanks de David, K5RAV
--
73...Clark Beckman
Typically no, the transmit part is the combiner and it will be expensive
unless you get very lucky in used stuff. All the filtering/duplex parts
will be very frequency specific and tough to locate already in the ham
band, you may find the losses far outweigh choosing another site. Have
you used
I don't know why I skipped this idea but slow waking up today, I just
mounted one of these nick named a half-n-half about a week ago. If
mounting only one antenna is your limitation this method has solved the
problem more than once, db products can do the stacking and it ends up
being about 16
I think you would be lose some coverage you have on uhf, when using dual
band antennas you must limit the total power to the antenna specs or
risk burning out the feed-thru caps that activate the uhf components, so
you could have 2 50 watt machines after the duplex filter feeding a 100
watt
The db family makes good dipoles for your application as you describe
it, ice is not a problem however using a isolator/circulator would make
good sense. Hustler makes a fiberglass antenna but it isn't rated for
your wind load, they work good on uhf but I don't know anyone with vhf
version.
Derek
If you are the lucky winner - look carefully at the solder joints on the
second output transistor from the left, also the output to the low pass
filter - there may be nothing wrong with the parts other than they have
heat cycled so many times some contacts may no longer be making any
contact.
Visit nhrc dot net and you will be happy with the model 2 kit form, if
you dont want any voice save a few bux and leave off the voice chip - cw
comes out insted of saying don's crossband repeater.
Don wrote:
Hello, I live in a canyon 6 months a year and I have a mobile base
that I have put
Spin the potentiometer under the board that mounts onto the output caps,
this should get your voltage to accidentally go too high - turn it down
before you do the reset or it will not go back on for more than just a
blink.
Jeff Corkren wrote:
I'm building the Astron overvoltage reset circuit
Actually it doesn't, most of the heat sinks are band specific unless you
want to drill and tap about 20 some 6-32 and 14 4-40 holes in the
aluminum to hold components down - I did it and it is a very tedious
project.
--
73...Clark Beckman N8PZD
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
Houston - we have a problem here
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Command
Command
not understood.
Please send mail to [EMAIL PROTECTED], containing word HELP as the first
non-blank line for the list of available commands.
ArGoSoft Mailing List Server
--
73...Clark Beckman N8PZD
What type of equipment have you got your eyes on? Money is the main
factor, time to tune and tweak is secondary - same with many other
hobbies.
Andy wrote:
is it hard to build a repeter for low bands like 6 meter?
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Use a diode from the white wire to feed a buffer that will actually
short the center of a power divider resistor pair in series with the
ctcss into the exciter/modulator - this needs to hold low except when
the correct pl is heard, when pl drifts away or the user unkeys the
outbound pl will be
This is defeatable, I have described this several times - instead of
turning off the tone generator thereby activating the reverse burst just
use a hold low in between 2 15K resistors to pinch the pl output of the
ts64 module going towards the modulator. To use this you will have to
hold the
I don't know where your located, I am in Cleveland Ohio and a bunch here
had tryed the 802.11 stuff over the past summer. Unfortunately I doubt
if you will get much range as we tryed loop style directional antennas,
large (18 inch) dish, converted c-band all to no avail - there just
isn't much
Using a basic ham radio as a transmitter will do in a pinch, but
remember heat is our enemy so keep the power at about half of stated
output and if the environment is one with lots of other receivers you
may have to find a type accepted transmitter to stay on site as spurs
may not be evident until
] wrote:
Yes, that would be very good for a write up!
Chuck Kelsey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Why don't you write it up in some detail and submit to Kevin for
posting on the Repeater-Builder web site?
Chuck
WB2EDV
- Original Message -
From: Virden Clark
I have seen cross polarized antennas used to receive links around a
large city airport area, the theory is if the path is not consistent
there is a larger capture area available. This will be an interesting
one to follow, I think the coupling loss will become more like -7 to -9
db as it is -15 db
Well you have seen the obvious weaker mechanical construction which can
still work well with a side arm made from sch80 electrical pvc tubing,
however the power is combined power not per band but you should still
have survived if the antenna was held rigid and you were sure it was dry
inside. I
Try http://www.repeater-builder.com/rbtip/custombuilt.html - browse
around and learn what makes your radios work or fail in repeater
service.
Mike wrote:
I am looking for a place to place an ad and wanting to trade radio
equiptment and wanting some repeater conversion work. I want to trade
1
The nhrc remote board is probably the easiest way to add options to an
existing controller machine - money wise the nhrc-2 would be a more cost
effective route. Have you tried researching the controller data sheets
for some info on disabling the transmit?
kg4yti wrote:
Looking for Good Ways
Don, the filtering is in the pa deck assembly, it is kinda hard to
remove it and continue to operate but it could be done with some fancy
jumper cables. So if the reciever went sour just substitute another
reciever using it's rx audio and cas to operate your controller and you
should be back
Search ARRL technical articles - N8AKS recently wrote up a great circuit
- be sure to use aluminum window screen as it is for a 12 VDC fan.
drwoolweaver wrote:
I need a simple circuit for a repeater PA fan controller with delay
time out. I did a search, but found nothing. Thanks de David
If you are looking at a station pa deck and the output filter is on your
right side - or a mobile and the fins are away from you, look to your
left near the horizontal centerline and into the left 1/3 section - you
should see a potentiometer on the pc board - this is the driver control
- mostly
I don't have build specs for that particular antenna on hand however the
shaking and producing noise on the ground doesn't sound good, could it
be the hardline connector making intermittent to the mast? Try
insulating the mast wrapping positions with scotch electrical rubber
tape covered with
It requires the crimping tool which now most everyone has, and be
careful folding tight corners as when the aluminum foil tears open you
are left with plain old coax. For this reason I use only double shielded
cabling on my repeater projects, when something slips out of place and
strains that
You will need about 4 more 100 foot towers to get the seperation to
aquire 100db isolation - I use 8 of these antennas on a split site
repeater, the null changes depending on other hardware on the tower -
the pattern comes from each side 25 percent and 50 percent from the
front - keep each antenna
Those are deviation and ctcss levels, they won't help a 'bassy' sounding
repeater. What you need to do is follow the audio lines in and out to
see what components and where the de-emphasis was made, compare the
values you have to the repeater builder web site audio recomendations to
get the level
I thought it was 2500 watts, I guess I will have to scale down my
vhf/uhf contesting amplifier, maybe those 8877s will last a long time
now.
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Snip I can transmit with 1500 watts
out, legally. We were both polite to each other - never in a pushing
match of any kind. And
A hamfest or the electronic style in the comfort of your armchair -
Ebay?
Mike wrote:
I am looking for instuctions and details on which radios that I could
tie together use a controller for a UHF repeater? (Prefer kenwoods)
Maybe some 805 or 809? Also, I would like to know the value of the
Try adding a pull-down resistor to the cas line about 10k would do to be
certain the controller is not floating, you may want to try this on the
correct ctcss input switch also to prevent bouncing.
Rick - VA3RZS/Charlotte - VA3CMR wrote:
Ok Guys and Gals
I have a little problem here
I am
It will be hard to do and maintain the system in battery working order
while you work on it, the easiest way to clean the terminals is soak in
baking soda/water solution - you may have to swirl them around in a kids
bucket of the mixture to activate the soda enhancing the cleaning into
the
The reciever is pretty good, but from everything we have found here the
transmitter will work best in the trunk of a tucker torpedo - otherwise
using it as portable ballast from an amphibious car would be the best
way to use it. Both GE and Motorola made a repair kit for the spectrum
radio family,
I think you should send it to Kevin so he can hit it with a hammer, when
he is done I will come over and melt some of it with a blowtorch while
he takes the pictures, I am sure someone will step in with a
hammerdrill. Maybe bring it to dayton and charge 1 buck a hit in the
flea market area, you
I have 3 of them in my attic that I use on simplex, with the vhf contest
coming I will bring them down and forward digital photos to the web site
for posting.
There has got to be plans still around for them, I made mine about 12 or
14 years ago.
--
73...Clark Beckman N8PZD
Yahoo! Groups
Randy, I don't have any experience with those cavities however if they
are that close I think you will be able to get them moved into the ham
band with little or no trouble. Have you tried having someone 2 or 3
miles away transmit on the repeater piar while you moved any of the
adjustments to
Likely more than that, I used to get my cordless out about 2-3 miles
with a 5 element beam aimed down the interstate, it worked up to the
first hill which was a large overpass, I was on a 1/4 wave mag mount for
6 mtrs with the handset.
Don wrote:
330 watt, low band 42-54MHz
I think I could
The red stuff is called glastic in the power distribution world,
fiberglass impregnated plastic - it has a very nice dielectric value and
is installed in most power distribution transformers around the
connection lugs. I see it in 1/4 flat format, I imagine it must be
available in other forms like
If you are looking for a name it was folded monopole 20 some years ago,
no gain but wide banded and durable in high winds - most coast guard
stations use these.
Mike Perryman wrote:
Looks like a DB-201 that is missing the radial kit... see attached PDF and
tell me if you agree..
mike
What is the swr and can you lower the output power to about 2/3 rated
power to reudce heating? You mention no controller, how does it ID with
10 minute intervals?
kf4vgx wrote:
This Repeater was an old kit that was put together last year by a Ham
friend and myself works great !
But when
Mechanical fatigue; where the elements are formed this outer region is
the thinnest as it is stretched the most in the forming process. Had
this hole been drilled along the side it may have been a better choice
as the thickness would be almost the same as the parent straight tubing
however after
Take a telephone butt set to examine the output, and some resistors. If
these are simulcasting it would seem there is something affecting the
ptt parallel circuit - take 2 or 3 some 1n4001 to act as isolator so
that one ptt does not backfeed into the other. I think I would use a
pair of output
:04:26 -0500, Virden Clark Beckman wrote:
Take a telephone butt set to examine the output, and some resistors. If
these are simulcasting it would seem there is something affecting the
ptt parallel circuit - take 2 or 3 some 1n4001 to act as isolator so
that one ptt does not backfeed
Use a circuit looking at the output of the primary - you will need a
radio to do this, it having sensed the primary on-line will inhibit the
ptt engagement of the secondary even though both rx are working fine.
nfd440 wrote:
We have a MTR 2000 Primary Repeater at one location. and we are
I don't have intimite uhf micor experience however it sounds like the
exciter is making some noise if your walky can hear it, I do know on the
mastr family if you change the length of the jumper to the pa you will
have to retune the last 2 caps as it makes just enought to get the pa
going and
What band are you looking for?
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Hi all
I forgot in my earlier post Wanted the chassis I was looking for
is a Micor PA Chassis.
Thanks
Mike
--
73...Clark Beckman N8PZD
Yahoo! Groups Links
To visit your group on the web, go to:
Well you have an idea how it works but I don't think you realize the
spacing needed is about 50-60 feet from one antenna to the other for
uhf, for vhf you would need about double the distance. Towers work well
at keeping everything upright, trying this idea in portable sounds more
like something
I don't think you will get the capacitance and base loading coil to work
on 222 band from 154, that is a large step - I think hustler has a g6 or
g7 on 222.
Richard Velez wrote:
I have a VHF cellwave which has a faded label. I cant tell what model it is.
However the freq stamp was still
The zmatcher matches the reactive impedance to the transmitter, not the
resistive load - any cable changes or anything will affect this
reactance.
Ralph Mowery wrote:
Couldn't agree with you more. The important point is that you can't
insert
an SWR meter or wattmeter in the line to make
For commercial tower installation watch those wind load numbers, most
towers want a 90-100+ wind load, 120+ within 5 miles of navigable water.
As far as efficiency goes there is no such thing as a multi-band
antenna, the ham patterns are generally so high on the horizon that you
would need a good
Conducting boom is ok but not spreaders, if you are a purist you will
find feedpoint impedance ranging from 75 to 300 ohms - use some 1/2
electrical wave length of inversion coax to return to 52 ohm for your
transmitter to enjoy.
Sandeep wrote:
Hi
this is off topic
I am planning a 2M
Change the programming to your desired timing sequence, what is an old
repeater? In many ham radio conversions the controller is not made by
the radio company, so you will have to examine the board for a name if
you didn't get all the info when you aquired the unit. There are still
some
Stephen, the acc controller and link are the only ham radio type
controllers that can process analog data. You would have to make an
interface with a basic stamp or some from of digital-analog convertor to
interact between the scom and the radio itself.
kg4pto wrote:
I have a general question.
That will be a rare catch - the micor ones are 2 helical and bi-polar,
also scarce.
Adam T. Cately wrote:
Looking for a Mastr II UHS amp for VHF - have receiver boards, but
would take another with the amp installed for the right price. Please
respond to:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
or
Look for the white wire to cycle with the correct tone, this is rx pl
detect - you didn't say if the unit will rx with any tone but you didn't
say the rx has died so that sounds like the symptom. If you have the
green wire going to vol/squ hi and the org, blk and violet held low and
the white wire
I geuss we couldn't wait till the first day in April for that news?
Jim B. wrote:
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Hi Jim,
For repeater duty, it MUST be turned down or it will burn up.
And conversely, it mustn't be turned up or it will burn down.
73,
Bob
oh my...|cP
--
Jim
Roger, is this the replacement for the ICC AM-6154 and 6155 series
equipment? I have one of each and besides a couple early smokes tests
they work well in the 6-700 watt range after mods.
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
the CM-51 is a UHF (225-400 MHz)LPA designed to boost AM signals from 10
watts
I have one of the micors like you are using, same gas-fet, dci 4 bay
filter and duplexor also. The gas-fet is the single biggest item of
gain, and would mention if you have easy access try changing just that
to a bi-polar and do only one thing at a time because without being
there it is hard to
Hey Chuck, have they started a j-pole antenna group yet? That would be a
fascinating one to watch, if you include 432 I will join.
Chuck Kelsey wrote:
I guess that the Repeater Builder list was so overwhelmed with Mitrek stuff
that it was inevitable that another list would be needed.
I'm
This is typically done to protect the seller from someone not familiar
with the equipment from shooting both in the foot from one location,
shoot yourself in the foot alone. This is why most electronic equipment
is sold as is, however if you run into trouble Paul is a very helpful
guy and can
GE M-pro pin out on the top of the power supply there are 2 terminal
strips tb501 and tb 502, tb502-2=rxa, tb502-10=ptt/lo, tb502-12=txa,
tb502-16=cas/hi - the cas is next to 110vac so be really smart and pull
the plug from the wall before you tinker with that one.
Russell Filling wrote:
ok
Tedd Doda wrote:
An oscilloscope is your best friend for tracking logic
and audio levels.
Snip -- In many cases you can use a volt meter to observe the .2 ac in
the audio stream to the controller rxa in this case taken from tb502-2.
But again be careful when you grab that cas line from
This is a good example, don't do what you just thought about doing - you
will ruin the rx radio set. Before you transmit into the cavity filter
be sure it has some isolation to the rx port, this is a must... Now how
can you test this? Try a little extra isolation - don't connect direct,
huh? what
I would imagine you might want to bid on 4 that I have belongs to a
radio club in northern Ohio - they paid 800 bux and they worked good
until we split the site with the solid state pa deck. There is info on
adding a pass notch out of cable to the inside somewhere on the web, I
wanted to try this
There is a tube store in Tempe Arizona that has fair prices on new old
stock tubes, I think it is called radio restoration or something close -
before you chase good money for new why not buy another mobile radio at
a swap-n-shop? Or dig into a 2way shop's castaway pile to see what you
can
Get onto an existing tower as a co-located user, you will be meeting a
lot of people to explain the volunteer support ham radio gives existing
emergency services when they are overloaded - cell phones don't go fast
enough - electrical outage in one area puts an end to communications
between the
Make sure the ceramic plate on front and the insulating spacer in the
back are in good condition and gooped up with heat transfer compound, if
either part is faulty the voltage goes down to zero and hops up and down
when you wiggle the frame and or the cover.
Terry wrote:
Hey folks,
I
What angle of radiation are you measuring gain in? What method of
coupling are you using between the radiating elements?
samsoncr wrote:
Hi. I wanna make an antenna stacking two 5/8 elements, it's for my
GMRS radio. Which one will have more gain, 40,5 cm over 40,5 cm
element with 2 cm of
they work. I wanna stack two 5/8 wave elements vertically
using collinear model or stack array. Thank you.
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Virden Clark Beckman
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
What angle of radiation are you measuring gain in? What method of
coupling are you using between
Doug, your concerns about the line voltage is a valid one however the
ferro-resonant type supplies can generally overcome 10-15 percent
fluctuation in line voltage. I like your grounding questions and using a
split bolt to add your 6awg stranded wire to the existing ground bus is
going to be as
Can you send some specs for those solid state tubes?
Mathew Quaife wrote:
This one has the three small transistorized finals on the right back side.
As far as numbers on the unit, don't find anything that meets the model
numbers that's been mentioned. Might be easier to just locate one of
They or somethin very close made the uniden regency bearcat scanner
stuff, maybe cb - you are talking those 11 meter am boxes right?
Neil McKie wrote:
Doesn't / didn't regency make scanners and CB's?
--
73...Clark Beckman N8PZD
Yahoo! Groups Links
* To visit your group on the web,
For the bux the hustler g-6 family has been doing pretty well, just make
sure to sweep it before you mount it as there have been some really
crazy uhf splits mixed up lately.
Donnie Q wrote:
I am putting a 220 machine on the air in Michigan, all ready have
the pair. but my question is does
I doubt if you would get repeater council approval to link at that power
level, most linking is done 15-20 miles with 3-5 watts and then someone
might turn it up to 10 watts to overcome foliage and insure a reliable
path in horrible weather.
dy3lmk143_13mhz wrote:
I've never had experience on
If you are looking for 6 mtr cavities, I have a set in my barn that a
club spent 800 bux on, 4 pcs. db 4032 - located just west of Cleveland,
Ohio - they will fit into a caravan or comparable mini-van.
Neal Newman wrote:
Hey Alex Go Away
looking for some 6 meter duplexers For
Tune them each seperatly and then replace the cables with the correct
electrical length using the velocity factor math.
Davies, Doug A FOR:EX wrote:
I have been having a heck of a time getting my Q202G to tune to 146.xxx. It
was originally set up for 163.xxx and, of course, the plunger rods
You need to get a licensed radio tech in there to do the co-ordination
but the basic can it be linked, yes but it could easily cost 25-38k to
erect the towers and all the stuff needed.
Matt Bergum wrote:
Hello,
I just Joined the group, but don't plan to stay a member (since I am
not a HAM
If what you are trying to get is a stronger signal from a weaker one,
use an open npn collector as the switch - in order for it to trigger
with reliability you do need for the signal to go above 3 and below 2
volts for this to occur - it takes the strain off the radio electronics
and you can also
Well, I am thinking that using an op-amp circuit might help you out on
the audio line out with a .3-.5 blocking cap in series with a 50k pot.
Op-amps demand very little current to activate, and can be reliable in
rf fields by sprinkling some 0.1 tantalum caps around where there is dc
bus voltages
You will probably want to add about 1/2 inch to each end of each loop,
this will be tedious but a short time ago on the reflector someone
posted pictures of drilling thru the end of the loop and adding a bolt
to effectively increase the size of the loop, it was a high band model
but the same idea
I have a u16, to get to program hold the f key on the side and press
1,5,9,7,5,3 then turn off and on to go back to run the radio.
Joey Diaz wrote:
Hi,
I have an old ICOM IC-H16T. I have not used this unit for a long time. I
would like to ask for assistance regarding the access code for
1 - 100 of 140 matches
Mail list logo
