Re: Stus-List Winter cover C 40

[Indigo via CnC-List]

I wood look at the frameless covers. I bought mine from Canvas Store in Long 
Island. Life-time warranty. Every few years I would send the cover back to them 
for fixing minor issues such as tangs coming loose from uv damage to stitching. 
Shipping costs both ways and repairs covered 100% by them. 

However the best things about the cover was it’s weight - each of 3 pieces 
could easily be carried up a ladder one handed! And the ease of installation. I 
could put the whole thing on in less than 1 hour provided I had preprepared the 
multiple ties needed. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Sep 27, 2018, at 10:52, Patricia Walsh via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> The boat had a custom made frame and cover.  I still have the frame, however, 
> I had to throw the cover out as it had rotted due to a leaking roof where it 
> was stored. (I wish they had told us.)
> The frame is metal pipe.  I have four clamps to support the frame. I don't 
> know if I should have more??
> I want to cover the boat. 
> I would like to either buy a used cover or a tarp to put over the frame but I 
> do not know the dimensions of the original cover or who made it so I could 
> call and ask. 
> My husband passed. He would have known. Can anyone help me?
> Thank you.
> Patricia
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List downwind polars

[Indigo via CnC-List]

The downwind polars on the J109 I race on regularly definitely assume spinnaker 
use. The Class jib is barely more than 100% (maybe 105%) and if going downwind 
jib and main only we’d never finish!  The polars we steer to give precise wind 
angles depending on true wind speed. The lighter the wind, the hotter angle we 
have to sail. Doubt it is any different with a symmetrical kite. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Jun 30, 2018, at 08:24, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> David,
> 
> I’m pretty sure polars are for standard jib and main configuration and do not 
> account for wing-on-wing pole use or spinnaker use. 
> 
> All the best, 
> 
> Edd
> 
> ---
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise 
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, New York
> www.StarshipSailing.com
> ---
> 914.774.9767   | Mobile
> ---
> Sent via iPhone X
> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
> 
> 
> On Jun 30, 2018, at 7:47 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> The polars for my boat predict an optimal downwind speed at an angle around 
> 145° true.   Does anyone know what assumptions are made in this prediction 
> about spinnakers and whisker poles?  I race non-spinnaker and often on 
> windward-leeward courses so we are often dead downwind and the whisker pole 
> makes a huge difference going downwind wing on wing.  I am wondering if the 
> polars take this into account.  Dave
> 
> Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Capacity plate values for a 1984 C Mk III C/B

[Indigo via CnC-List]

If I remember correctly from my CT Safe Boating class, the Federally required 
Capacity Plate is only required on power-driven vessels under 20ft in length. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On May 11, 2018, at 12:58, Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> C Brethren and Sisterhood,
>  
> In my capacity as a Yacht Broker, I am about to list a 1984 C, but want 
> to accurately reflect the capacity and passenger maximum for the boat.  I 
> hope it is okay to ask if anyone on this list can assist?
>  
> Neil Andersen
> 1982 C FoxFire
> Rock Hall, MD
>  
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Asym sheet size

[Indigo via CnC-List]

FWIW I sail regularly on a J\109  (35ft) with of course an asymmetric. We use 
standard “class” sheets in all wind conditions - which are I think endura braid 
with polyester cover 8mm (translates to 0.31in). If I were to replace my spin 
sheets on Indigo I would go with the 8mm and use a soft-shackle. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Nov 2, 2017, at 12:16, steve dewar via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I just picked up an asym spinnaker for my C 35. I want to get two sets of 
> sheets. One will be 3/8 diameter for normal use and the other will be 1/4 
> diameter for light air. Do these sizes sound right?
> Thanks Steve 
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
> 
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
> October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
> contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
> --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Fundraising results

[Indigo via CnC-List]

I think if it like NPR. I have no idea how much they need to run the stations, 
but I contribute anyway based on what I can afford / related to what I get out 
of listening. 

We should treat this list the same. I am sure if most participants gave 
something Stu’s costs would be covered. If Stu ends up with more than he needs 
- great - it’s well deserved!

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Oct 26, 2017, at 15:34, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Dennis et al, 
> Wouldn't you want to know how much it is costing Stu or how little he is 
> making so you could send MORE money, to help out? I do so I can send MORE, 
> not less!
> 
> Continue to pile on all you like. Being informed of the approximate costs (in 
> time and $) would benefit everyone, least of all Stu, since listers would 
> know what it takes and could contribute MORE. 
> 
> Keep em coming. Still loving this list and C's ;!
> 
>> On Thu, Oct 26, 2017 at 12:26 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> This virtual C community has existed for over 20 years.  Many of us have 
>> escaped the list's cyber boundaries and meet in the "real" world.  
>> 
>> What Bill didn't mention was that Sailnet wanted to charge an ongoing fee to 
>> all of us.   We would also be subject to their advertisements and any future 
>> fee increases.  After we set up a Yahoo Groups, we found it lacking.
>> 
>> Stu stepped up to the plate and offered to maintain what we now call Stu's 
>> List.  One of the promises Stu made was "no advertising, ever".  We like 
>> that.  It is a community list.  Although Stu diligently maintains it, we all 
>> feel a deep sense of community and semi-ownership.  Although Stu is the 
>> "official head knocker in charge", we choose to believe this list is "ours".
>> 
>> Not only does this resource make our boats more valuable, the cumulative $$ 
>> and aggravation savings are large.  Benefiting from the been there, done 
>> that of this list is very valuable.  The combined experience of our members 
>> cover all aspects of our boats; rigging, tuning, structural repairs, 
>> engines, electrical and electronics.  
>> 
>> Well worth throwing a few bucks at Stu.  IMHO, if there is an excess, I 
>> believe Stu will inform us and apply it to next year's expenses.  I, like 
>> others, think that if Stu chooses to accept an annual "bonus" of a bottle or 
>> two of some fine adult beverage, that's good by me.  He deserves it.
>> 
>> Enough about this.  Send $$$.
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> 
>>> On Thu, Oct 26, 2017 at 12:19 PM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> We lived through this discussion a long time ago at very great length. We 
>>> do not need to re-litigate it again. We were all originally on a group 
>>> hosted by Sailnet. Sailnet changed hands, and we were essentially left 
>>> homeless. At that time, we had a long debate about where to go. Google 
>>> really didn't exist then. The big player was Yahoo. There were a few other 
>>> options, including staying with the new owners of Sailnet, even though they 
>>> had dumped our archives. Having been burned badly by allowing someone else 
>>> to host us, we were all very happy to have Stu provide us a stable home, 
>>> where some outside bean-counter would never again have the option to 
>>> exterminate us, and throw our content in the trash. Stu has done an amazing 
>>> job all these years, and at one time mentioned that there was a succession 
>>> plan in place. Anyone who thinks this is in any way   a "business" 
>>> for Stu should just go back out whatever door they came in. He has put an 
>>> enormous amount of time and effort into keeping us together, and I would be 
>>> shocked if the bottom line has not been a bit of red ink for him. Stu has 
>>> formal arrangements for use of the official C material on his website and 
>>> use of the logo for various items he occasionally makes available as modest 
>>> fund raisers. The founders and principal players of the old C have 
>>> expressed gratitude for Stu's efforts in keeping their legacy alive. Our 
>>> old C's are also more saleable, and at a higher price, thanks to Stu's 
>>> generous work. 
>>> 
>>> Bill Bina
>>> 
 On 10/26/2017 12:54 PM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List wrote:
 Stu, Thank you for what you do. No offense intended, but this is my 
 perspective:
 
 Mike,
 
 I have lots of stuff on Google drives. This does not make it Google's 
 property. This email list, in support of a brand of sailboats, is a 
 Community of people who share a common passion. I personally do not think 
 one person should own, control, and profit? from the experiences shared by 
 many, for free, in support of a brand of sailboats we all love. 
 
 God forbid something happens to Stu, but if it did this list would 
 evaporate unless there is a succession plan that I am unaware of. Stu does 
 not own 

Re: Stus-List C 30 MKII - Winter or Spring anti-fouling/bottom job?

[Indigo via CnC-List]

I stripped the bottom of my 35-3 several years ago. Started (and gave up 
quickly) with sanders. Went with a chemical peel which worked really well, but 
very messy.  Had money been no object would have gone with soda or dry ice 
stripping. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Oct 20, 2017, at 16:08, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> A few suggestions:
> 
> Have a look at a similar sized boat on the hard and contemplate holding a 
> sander (~5-6 inches in diameter) above your head while you move it along the 
> bottom while moving a chair to sit on or doing it standing or kneeling. 
> Remember that you must not poison yourself with the dust so have a good 
> quality mask on, lots of sandpaper and be prepared to change the paper often. 
> You will also need a disposable suit to keep the poison off your person, 
> including your hair, ears, etc. Keep in mind the weather, either hot, humid 
> rainy or cold will influence your pace. 
> 
> Now contemplate doing this more than once since you will likely need to sand 
> with a rough grit followed by a smoother one before hand painting the new 
> poison on and then that may need sanded once or twice before adding another 
> layer of paint, etc. etc. Same is true if you want to spray it on, except 
> then you can really poison yourself and possibly paint a few of your 
> neighbor's boats!
> 
> I did this sanding once on my 36 ft boat and from the underside it looked 
> like an ocean liner when you are using a 5 inch sander. It took me about 5 
> 8-10 hour workdays to get the sanding done. I was not prepared to either hand 
> paint with rollers or spray paint for racing so the yard took over--I was 
> able to use may arms again in about a week :>).
> 
> IMHO this is a yard job and is not particularly challenging--just a low-skill 
> PITA that teaches you only that you never want to do it again!
> 
> Let the yard soda blast it, sand and paint it and spend your time making 
> money to pay them their fees. OTOH, if you have more time than money, enjoy 
> working with tools above your head for days on end, go for it--just remember 
> you were warned!
> 
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> 1995 C 36 XL/kcb
> 
> 
> 
> cenel...@aol.com
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Chris Hobson via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: Chris Hobson 
> Sent: Fri, Oct 20, 2017 3:46 pm
> Subject: Stus-List C 30 MKII - Winter or Spring anti-fouling/bottom job?
> 
> This is a two part query about doing the bottom of a sailboat by a 
> first-timer. The high pressure spray that removed the previous saltwater 
> growth of 1.5 years (during the survey in July) also removed part of the 
> protective coat of anti-fouling that was left. I thought I would get around 
> to re-doing the bottom this past summer/fall. It didn’t happen. Now I'm 
> approaching winter and contemplating a haul-out in November (in rainy 
> Vancouver) or waiting until spring. But I’m not sure how much more work would 
> be involved by putting it off until spring. Would like to hear some other 
> opinions on this. I also have a marina telling me soda blasting is the way to 
> go. And based on the hell that is involved with a project like this, my lack 
> of time and the weather, I’m contemplating it. Chris Hobson S/V Going 1980 
> C MKI Hull 615 ___ The bills 
> have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again. October will 
> be our fund raising month. Please consider sending a small contribution to 
> help keep this list running. Use PayPal to send contribution -- 
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
> October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
> contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
> --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Replacing Cabin Sole - 35MkIII

[Indigo via CnC-List]

I am just about to start on the project to replace the teak and Holly cabin 
sole on Indigo. I have gleaned much info / advice from past postings on this 
list, but was wondering if anyone has prepared a "step by step" guide. 

Things I need help on!

1) steps to ensure that the Holly lines up exactly for each piece.   I recently 
asked, and was told I need 2 pieces of 4' x 8' to complete the job and allow 
the lines to match up - but I thought from past postings that 3 pieces are 
needed. Can someone who has done a 35mkiii confirm which?

2) best tool(s) to use to cut out the new pieces using the old boards as 
templates.  Any tips / techniques to ensure accuracy and minimise damage to new 
veneer?

3) I know I should epoxy the underneath (and sides?) of the boards - how many 
coats are advised - can the first coat be "thin" to aid penetration into the 
plywood?

4) advice on what to use for the top surface - presumably a polyurethane 
varnish - preferred brand, number of coats recommended, what finish (matt,  
semi-gloss, gloss?)

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List How long do your zincs last (saltwater, on a dock, plugged in to shore power

[Indigo via CnC-List]

A friend of mine uses one on his j/109 after an expensive experience with his 
sail-drive. He clips the zinc "fish" to his backstay which I presume is 
grounded to the engine block. 

His boat was never at a dock, and he has not had a problem since (3+ years) but 
I understand that there are so many factors involved in electrolysis that we 
don't know if it was the fish working or some other change - perhaps on other 
boats nearby in the mooring field (fore and aft moorings so other boats are 
close!)

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Sep 25, 2017, at 14:08, Alan Liles via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Where do you connect overboard zincs? I would think directly to the shaft or 
> engine but the ones I've seen don't have a cable long enough for that. 
> 
> Cheers, Al
> 
> 
>> On Sep 25, 2017, at 10:44 AM, Bill Dakin via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Overboard zincs make a lot of sense.  Great surface area for consumption, 
>> fast inspection and stowed quickly before leaving dock.
>> Bill Dakin
>> S/V Tapestry
>> 25MKII
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Replacing cabin sole - 35Mk III

[Indigo via CnC-List]

Improbably discussed many times, but could a 35 MkIII owner tell me how many 
sheets of 4' x 8' of teak and holly I would need to replace the entire cabin 
sole?

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 1983 C 35 mark 3 new purchase

[Indigo via CnC-List]

As a 35III owner I am definitely biased, but the 35III IS A GREAT boat. Sails 
well, comfortable in a blow. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Aug 22, 2017, at 09:39, Daniel Dickinson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Hello all. 
> 
>   Just put an offer in on a c 35 m3 and looking for advice, additional 
> resources, reassurance that this is a good boat. I'm upgrading from a Tanzer 
> 26 and am sailing primarily in the Portland Maine area. 
> 
> The listing 
> http://www.boats.com/sailing-boats/1983-c-c-35-mark-iii-6277990/#.WZwzq4UpCEc
> 
> Or you can google c mark iii maine and it's the first result. Boats name 
> is katahdid. 
> 
> Offer is for 25,000. Survey in a week. 
> 
> Thanks. 
> 
> -daniel
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging

[Indigo via CnC-List]

Can't think of a single boat I have sailed on that does not do this if fitted 
with a solid vang. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Jun 2, 2017, at 18:19, David via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Am I alone with taking the main halyard back to the aft end of boom and 
> letting the vang take the interim weight while the halyard takes the brunt of 
> the force for securing the boom down?
> 
> 1981 40-2
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone
> 
> 
>  Original message 
> From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
> Date: 6/2/17 14:41 (GMT-05:00) 
> To: C List  
> Cc: Josh Muckley  
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging 
> 
> I agree with the limited value added by a topping lift.  I've considered 
> getting rid of mine.  Then I realized that I tie off my mainsail sail pack to 
> it.  A topping lift also allows some control of the luff tension which can 
> induce twist...if desired.  The boat I race on has never had a topping lift.
> 
> Josh
> 
>> On Jun 2, 2017 8:44 AM, "Gary Nylander via CnC-List"  
>> wrote:
>> I seem to remember that the Landfall project boat is “wally bryant stella 
>> blue”. The documentation is outstanding.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Also, I fail to see the need for a topping lift if the boat has a rigid 
>> vang. My vang (Garhauer) is spring loaded and keeps the boom above 
>> horizontal unless I haul it down. The topping lift disappeared many years 
>> ago.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Gary
>> 
>> 30-1
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brian 
>> Davis via CnC-List
>> Sent: Friday, June 2, 2017 8:08 AM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Brian Davis 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Thank you, Josh and John.  I really appreciate the detailed replies.  If you 
>> have pictures as well please email me some directly. 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Yes, Nina is a Landfall built in 1980.  I've researched her numbers and also 
>> have some of the original paper work.  Paul Eugenio who is on this list also 
>> helped confirm that last year after I bought her. If you all have not seen 
>> his website you should.  (link below)  I actually use it as a reference for 
>> other projects that I've done and plan to do.  He does an amazing job 
>> documenting his work.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/p/projects.html
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> On Thu, Jun 1, 2017 at 9:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Hey Brian, 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I'm back again.  You might consider using amsteel for you topping lift it is 
>> relatively cheap and you can do the splicing yourself (locked brummel eye 
>> splice with closed thimble).  If the length is in question then use the 
>> halyard to pull a tape measure up the mast then walk back to the boom end 
>> and figure the length.  You'll want to subtract a foot or two so that the 
>> boom has room to be lifted.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Use a bosun's chair to attach one end to the top of the mast.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Mine is rigged the same a John Stanford describes.  Mine is cleated on the 
>> boom just forward of the dodger.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Now that others are mentioning it,g the boat in the picture looks a lot like 
>> my 37+.  1989 was the first year for the 37+ and was the successor to the 37 
>> but also brought with it characteristics of 40.  Is there a chance that 
>> yours is a 37?
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Looks like we all answered your question.  Any others?
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Josh Muckley
>> 
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 
>> 1989 C 37+
>> 
>> Solomons, MD 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> On Jun 1, 2017 2:31 PM, "Brian Davis via CnC-List"  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Greetings everyone,
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I'm in search of a good schematic for redoing the rigging on my LF 38.  I 
>> have the manual and it shows some length measurements, but I'm not fully 
>> educated on the terms.  The only thing holding up the boom now is the old 
>> rope guides that keep the main from falling on the deck.  When I bought her 
>> the SS cable that connects the back of the boom to the top of the mast was 
>> off and stowed below and there is only a connector on one end and bare wire 
>> on the other.  Not sure how it connects to the boom...etc.  I see a cheek 
>> block that I need to replace on the boom near the mast.  I want to rig it 
>> the proper and best way, but I don't have any good drawings and just looking 
>> for some guidance.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Regards,
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Brian Davis
>> 
>> 1980 C Landfall 38
>> 
>> "Nina"
>> 
>> Southeast Florida
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Virus-free. www.avast.com
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 

Re: Stus-List Replacing Teak and Holly Flooring

[Indigo via CnC-List]

Could one not screw the completed panels just like the original - with the 
screws going through the Plasteak and countersunk to stop the heads being proud?

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On May 28, 2017, at 15:07, Persuasion37 via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> wrote:
> 
> I used PlasTeak, bought it from Defender.  Only draw back is it cannot be 
> removed like the old panels.  I screwed down epoxied coated plywood then 
> applied the PlasTeak.  If you go this route make sure you make access panels 
> to access the full length of the bilge.
> 
> Mike
> PERSUASION
> C 37 K/CB
> Long Sault
> 
>> On May 28, 2017, at 10:31 AM, Indigo via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
>> wrote:
>> 
>> The teak and holly flooring on Indigo desperately needs replacing. 
>> 
>> I have 1 question for 35mk3 owners and one for all listers!
>> 
>> 1. Can the flooring be replaced without removing vertical grab bar by the 
>> galley. Access to the upper end of this grab bar is under the companionway 
>> hatch cover?   
>> 
>> 2. What alternatives to teak and holly would listers recommend. I am not 
>> sure investment in the real stuff is warranted for a nearly 35 yr old boat. 
>> 
>> --
>> Jonathan
>> Indigo C 35III
>> SOUTHPORT CT
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Replacing Teak and Holly Flooring

[Indigo via CnC-List]

Thanks but can't access Closed Facebook group. I am not a liveaboard so don't 
feel I should join. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On May 28, 2017, at 09:57, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> wrote:
> 
> Check this out:
> https://www.facebook.com/groups/724273500959088/permalink/1491319537587810/
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
> On May 28, 2017 9:32 AM, "Indigo via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> The teak and holly flooring on Indigo desperately needs replacing.
> 
> I have 1 question for 35mk3 owners and one for all listers!
> 
> 1. Can the flooring be replaced without removing vertical grab bar by the 
> galley. Access to the upper end of this grab bar is under the companionway 
> hatch cover?
> 
> 2. What alternatives to teak and holly would listers recommend. I am not sure 
> investment in the real stuff is warranted for a nearly 35 yr old boat.
> 
> --
> Jonathan
> Indigo C 35III
> SOUTHPORT CT
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Replacing Teak and Holly Flooring

[Indigo via CnC-List]

The teak and holly flooring on Indigo desperately needs replacing. 

I have 1 question for 35mk3 owners and one for all listers!

1. Can the flooring be replaced without removing vertical grab bar by the 
galley. Access to the upper end of this grab bar is under the companionway 
hatch cover?   

2. What alternatives to teak and holly would listers recommend. I am not sure 
investment in the real stuff is warranted for a nearly 35 yr old boat. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Replacement hinges 35mkIII

[Indigo via CnC-List]

The ones I got from Rex are chrome plated zinc alloy (0808DP0CHR)

Can't recall how the hood side of the hinges are attached, but seem to remember 
that they were attached with nut and bolt, but seem to remember that nut just 
spun when I tried to replace a broken hinge in the past requiring removal of 
the hood. I plan to epoxy the nuts in place so broken hinges can be replaced 
more easily in the future!

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On May 15, 2017, at 21:02, Jim Watts via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> wrote:
> 
> Yes, I still have one as a backup. 
>  
> That hinge stock number is actually 0951DP1CHR.
> 
> Perko also makes the same hinge in zinc, which is what C used in the first 
> place, at least on my boat. Part number for that is 0808DP0CHR.
> 
> The zinc ones are way cheaper than the bronze ones, but will definitely decay 
> faster in salt water. I went cheap, I can replace these about five times for 
> the cost of the bronze ones. 
> 
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
> 
>> On 15 May 2017 at 09:44, Indigo via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> Thanks for this. I contacted Perko and they were able to give me the exact 
>> dimensions / hole placements etc and gave me a part number (0851DP1CHR). 
>> Found it a local, well stocked marine store shout out to Rex Marine in 
>> Norwalk CT!  - NOT West! and confirmed by comparing old to New that is the 
>> same!  Only downside is that they come two to a pack and I need 3!!
>> 
>> --
>> Jonathan
>> Indigo C 35III
>> SOUTHPORT CT
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Replacement hinges 35mkIII

[Indigo via CnC-List]

Thanks for this. I contacted Perko and they were able to give me the exact 
dimensions / hole placements etc and gave me a part number (0851DP1CHR). Found 
it a local, well stocked marine store shout out to Rex Marine in Norwalk CT!  - 
NOT West! and confirmed by comparing old to New that is the same!  Only 
downside is that they come two to a pack and I need 3!!

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On May 15, 2017, at 09:05, Dennis C. via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> wrote:
> 
> http://www.perko.com/catalog/category_products/cabinet_hardware-hinges/
> 
>> On Mon, May 15, 2017 at 7:57 AM, Indigo via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
>> wrote:
>> Has anyone with a 35mkIII replaced the three hinges that are attached to the 
>> plexiglass cover for the winch handle (?) tray that is just forward of the 
>> main hatch. I have the hinges off the boat, and though they are stamped 
>> Perko Zinc there is no serial / model number. What I thought were 
>> equivalents from West Marine do not have the same hole pattern and thus do 
>> not line up with the holes in the fibreglass or the plexi. I would rather 
>> not have to replace the plexi just because of the hinges.  If anyone has the 
>> model number of the original Perko hinges, I would be most grateful.
>> 
>> --
>> Jonathan
>> Indigo C 35III
>> SOUTHPORT CT
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Replacement hinges 35mkIII

[Indigo via CnC-List]

Has anyone with a 35mkIII replaced the three hinges that are attached to the 
plexiglass cover for the winch handle (?) tray that is just forward of the main 
hatch. I have the hinges off the boat, and though they are stamped Perko Zinc 
there is no serial / model number. What I thought were equivalents from West 
Marine do not have the same hole pattern and thus do not line up with the holes 
in the fibreglass or the plexi. I would rather not have to replace the plexi 
just because of the hinges.  If anyone has the model number of the original 
Perko hinges, I would be most grateful. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Leak into interior from sliding companioway hatch stop

[Indigo via CnC-List]

I don't know how similar the 37/40+ is to the 35mk3 but I am in process of 
addressing similar leaks. 

Taking off the hood was fairly straightforward - but did involve removing the 
traveller track. 

I also found that the aft end "stop" was loose - at one time - probably not 
original bedded with silicon.   

On the 35 this stop cannot be eliminated as it also prevents water from making 
its way under the sliding hatch - and supposed to direct the water through two 
limber holes to the channels each side. In my case the starboard side limber 
hole was completely blocked! 

I removed the stop (required removing teak bungs to access the wood screws) 
cleaned off the silicon and rebedded the stop liberally with life caulk. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On May 14, 2017, at 21:40, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> On our 37/40+, I think one of the leaks into the interior of the boat is 
> coming from the stop for the companionway hatch.  There is a athwartship 
> board that serves as a stop for  the companionway hatch that, though I can 
> only get my fingers on it, appears loose  this is under the hood that covers 
> the front and sides of the hatch.   
> 
> I am thinking of doing away with the board stop, and allowing the wood piece 
> at the front of the hat to act like a stop.  That's how it was set up on our 
> C 27 MKIII.  I am thinking I would remove the 18" or so length of wood, and 
> fill in the holes with white Marine Tex.  
> 
> First question - is there an easy way to get the hood off for easier access 
> and to make sure we have everything sealed?
> 
> Second, what think you about removing the board and allowing the front of the 
> hatch (with the wood drop-down to act as the stop?
> 
> Thanks for your input!
>  
> Bruce Whitmore
> 
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Butyl tape or is there something better?

[Indigo via CnC-List]

I currently have the hood (if that's the correct term) removed from my sliding 
companionway hatch, and cleaned up ready for replacement. Clearly the original 
sealer was butyl.Is butyl tape still considered the best for this job (and 
if so which brand - if all butyl is not equal). 

Also, the hood was secured with s/s screws. Assuming there is reasonable access 
(CandC 35III) should I consider using s/s bolts with nuts?

All advice gratefully received!

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Race Committee for Pursuit Race

[Indigo via CnC-List]

We do several pursuit races a year at my club. 

Here is how we do it. 

1) rank the entries in PHRF order. If a boat does not have a valid certificate 
we get the rating for that class if boat from the local PHRF database. 

2) Knowing the charted distance of the race, we calculate the number of minutes 
/ seconds owed by all boats to the slowest in the fleet.  

3) Add that time allowance to the race start time (the starting time for the 
slowest boat) and give each boat its own start time  - GPS time - clearly those 
with the same rating will start together. 

4) Sometimes we use an official starting line, other times an honor system with 
a bearing from a fixed government mark. 

5) First boat to the finish line (usually "honor") is the winner. 

If you want to add some fun to the race consider adding "engine" time. In our 
most popular pursuit race, a distance of about 15 miles - two legs from one 
harbor to another with a dog-leg - boats can use their engines for a maximum of 
20 minutes (honor!). Some use it at the start, others reserve it for the end in 
case the wind dies, others to counteract adverse tides.   The trophy is a large 
stuffed soft toy "rat" that is required to be on display at the members house 
from one race to the next!!  We call the race the "Rat Race!!"  It is passed 
from winner to winner at a raft up at the destination!

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Oct 10, 2016, at 19:16, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Has anyone been organized and been Race Committee for a 'Pursuit Race' 
> before? I am curious how you went about it. 
> 
> Obviously there is some calculation of start times in relation to each boat's 
> rating. These are our contestants. I figure there will be three starts. 1 for 
> the 'Level' racers, 1 for 'No Score' racers, and another for PHRF, i.e. the 
> Pursuit racers. This is the first race in our winter series, which runs till 
> March. We thought we might kick it off with a fun race format. Thanks for 
> your input!
> 
> Kevin 
> 30-2
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List RC issues

[Indigo via CnC-List]

I have been "listening" to this discussion for a few days. 

I think it is deplorable and disheartening to see that the "corinthian" spirit 
and "volunteerism" is disappearing from sailing. 

I believe that most of us, if we race at all, race in mid-week "beer can" races 
where for most part the rewards are having fun, the post-race bbq, and 
occasionally bragging rights of winning a race or perhaps a series. 

My club used to use a 100% volunteer RC for the big boats  Skippers (and other 
members of the club) were "arm-twisted" into signing up for one or two races 
during the season. Those skippers who volunteered time to act as RC for junior 
regattas (all day or multiple days) were exempted. No "reward" in terms of a 
replacement finish place was ever offered. (I should say that our 
"qualification" criteria in terms of % of races sailed is quite low so to miss 
a race is not catastrophic). 

I really liked this system and wanted it to continue as it gave all skippers 
experience on how difficult it can be to set a square line, read the forecast 
so that boats can finish before time limits, etc etc.   Much less likely to 
criticize the the RC if you've done the job and made mistakes yourself!!

However, a Race Chair (whose responsibility it was to set up the RC schedule, 
decided for two reasons to change the system. His first reason was that it took 
too much time to cajole / arm twist at the start of the season. Secondly, he 
felt that having very inexperienced PRO's each week, detracted from the quality 
of the racing (he is a high-performing racer who treated Wed night races as 
though they were national championships!). He therefore changed the system and 
hired a high-school sailing coach to act as PRO (other RC spots are still 
volunteer).   The costs of the PRO are supposed to be covered this by a small 
levy to the skippers - but to my knowledge, the Club never sent out the bills!! 

So there are different ways to skin the cat. My preference - a fully volunteer 
RC staffed by skippers and some of their crew - with no artificial "race 
position" - but with a sufficiently low series qualification criteria to allow 
the lack of score in the missed race not to matter. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Sep 29, 2016, at 22:41, Martin 'Mac' McKenzie via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> At our club, each boat is assigned a night to do RC. If they do their night 
> they are scored their average for the series. If they do not show up the get 
> a non discarable DSQ.
> 
> Mac McKenzie
> Worthy Pearl
> C 37 Toronto
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Nav rules questions

[Indigo via CnC-List]

In my country of origin (UK) ringing the bell indicates "last orders" before 
the bar stops serving!  That would surely create a rush of sailors to your boat 
to get one in!

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Sep 14, 2016, at 12:43, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Although when we do that, it seems to attract other sailors to our boat and 
> we can’t understand why…


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Electrical Question

[Indigo via CnC-List]

I don't think this is unique to Maryland. I put my anchor light on when going 
ashore for the evening as it makes finding my boat in a dark crowded anchorage 
so much easier upon return. If everyone put their anchor lights on my advantage 
would disappear!!

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Sep 14, 2016, at 11:02, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> In Maryland at least, moored boats will almost never have an anchor light 
> showing if no one is aboard


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Nav rules questions

[Indigo via CnC-List]

Not many of us have boats over 40 ft so are not required to have a bell on 
board.  I do (legacy from PO) but haven't used it in fog or when at anchor 
(required use!) 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Sep 14, 2016, at 10:55, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> So how many of you have a bell on board and know when to use it?
> 
> How many of you have the latest edition of U.S. Chart 1?  
> 
> What is the latest edition of U.S. Chart 1?  (and its latest correction date?)
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Electrical Question

[Indigo via CnC-List]

I wonder if the Coasties know what 20M means. Maybe they can't tell feet from 
meters. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Sep 12, 2016, at 17:21, BillBinaList via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> A vessel of less than 20 meters in length,


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Electrical Question

[Indigo via CnC-List]

Marek
To be pedantic - you are correct for boats up to 12 meters (40ft approx) 
(combined all round white is acceptable - but has to be 1 meter above the side 
lights) but the regs require separate steaming / masthead and stern lights 
above that size unless the boat is greater than 20 meters when two masthead 
lights are required. (I do wonder how large, single masted sail boats comply?)

I agree that being visible to other boats is important - but no where near as 
important as keeping ones own lookout (Navigation Rule #1) (Can single-handed 
long distance boaters really comply?)) and being able to quickly identify the 
type and heading of nearby vessels. For this we need other vessels to display 
the correct lights. Think of the danger that would arise if a tug boat captain 
decided to put an all round white on his towed barge - just to make it more 
visible. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Sep 12, 2016, at 12:26, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> This is not entirely correct. You have to display a white light 360 degrees 
> AND the red/green side lights. The rule does not specify How you should 
> display that 360 degree white light. It can be a single light (as long as, 
> when you could see the side lights, it is above them) or it can be a 
> combination o


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Electrical Question

[Indigo via CnC-List]

As far as I know the various navigation light combinations for boats are 
international. There should be no difference in requirement between countries - 
that would be highly dangerous. Nav lights have two functions - type of vessel 
identification, and vessel heading identification.  When under power, whether 
the sails are up or not, a sail boat MUST display the red / green bow lights 
and stern light AND a steaming / masthead light. The steaming / masthead light 
must be higher than the red / green bow lights - which is why it is not correct 
to use a masthead tricolor with a steaming/masthead light.   If under sail 
alone one should not display a steaming/masthead light otherwise you might be 
confused for a vessel under power. Might be bad where a possibility of 
collision exists.!

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Sep 12, 2016, at 09:19, Ron Ricci via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
>   "It is not required under sail."


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Asymmetric spinnaker short handed. 33-2?

[Indigo via CnC-List]

My 35Iii came with a large shackle that goes through a hole drilled in the 
aluminum bow fitting.  I place a snatch block on the shackle and use that for 
the tackline - places the tack forward of the headstay so I have to do outside 
gybes - not a big enough slot for inside gybes.  

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Sep 9, 2016, at 18:06, Dave via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Just ordered my cruising chute from Rolly Tasker in Thailand and am looking 
> forward to trying it out.. Probably next season.   Have flown my symmetrical 
> a few times singlehanded.
> Considering how to do this on Windstar and am curious about how others have 
> addressed a few things:
> -Halyard at cockpit.   In this case it might make sense to have halyard at 
> mast - this way halyard, and spin-sock can be dealt with together.
> -Halyard at masthead.  On the 33-2 there are three halyards available, all 
> are in-masthead sheaves, parallel to each other .   I currently use the 
> centre one for the Genoa, and any other halyard chafes its neighbour on one 
> tack.   
> -Tack downhaul.   There isn't one forward of the furler drum.  The downhaul 
> itself can be rigged using the spin-pole downhaul line, fair leads and 
> cleats, but the fixed, forward tack is a problem to be resolved.   
> Many thanks for any guidance!
> Dave - Windstar 33-2
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Dinghy towing length

[Indigo via CnC-List]

I tow an inflatable from time to time so don't know how relevant this is to a 
hard dinghy. 

I have an long purpos built dinghy tether / painter with 2 attachment points at 
the dinghy. I let enough of the painter out when under way so that the dinghy 
surfs down the wave created by indigo. I feel that this reduces the tension on 
the painter - and thus the drag.   Note that I NEVER tow the dinghy with the 
outboard in place - I always bring it on board Indigo - can't afford a 
swamping!!  I also attach a second line to the dinghy which is adjusted to be a 
few inches longer than the primary painter - "just in case". 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Aug 10, 2016, at 12:16, Bev Parslow via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> We have a hard shell dinghy. How long should the tow line be? We had one 
> incident when it turned over. 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List What is this?

[Indigo via CnC-List]

A photo would help. Possibly the grease cap?

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Aug 7, 2016, at 14:52, Bev Parslow via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Giving a scrub to the cockpit locker on a 29-2. Looking to the rudder tube 
> under the cockpit, there is something halfway down facing forward. What is 
> this? 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List snatch block details?

[Indigo via CnC-List]

Have also had success freeing up those old style snatch blocks. I think giving 
a good soaking in warm water to dissolve salt helped too.   For replacements, 
Garhauer would be my first choice especially if boat bucks are tight!!

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Aug 4, 2016, at 14:44, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Richard,
> Those are Merriman Blocks but unfortunately, they’ve been out of business 
> since the late 1980s.  I have found that using a penetrating lubricant such 
> as PB Blaster, I’ve been able to free up seized sheaves on old blocks, and 
> then added a liberal dose of McLube to the sheave pin area on a regular basis 
> to keep things spinning.
> I know that Barton and Ronstan both make reasonably priced snatch blocks in a 
> range of sizes should yours not be salvageable.
> Chuck Gilchrest
> S/V Half Magic
> 1983 LF 35
> Padanaram, MA
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard 
> Walter via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, August 4, 2016 2:34 PM
> To: CC List 
> Cc: Richard Walter 
> Subject: Stus-List snatch block details?
>  
> Greetings,
>  
> INDIGO has a set of heavy-duty snatch blocks for the jib sheets. The bodies 
> are solid black rummer and there is a trident stamp marking on the strap.
>  
> One of the block's shieves is seized; looks like it'll need new pins and 
> possibly a new sheive.
>  
> Any ideas who may have made this block, are they still available, and where 
> replacement parts may be obtained?
> 
> Thank you,
> Richard
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fan Frustration! / Hot nights

[Indigo via CnC-List]

 Presumably you are on shore-power when running this unit?

Don't know about Georgia, but in the north east, provided there is a little 
breeze, the wind scoop  combined with a few strategically placed 12v fans keeps 
my wife cool enough to tolerate overnights on a mooring / anchor. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Jul 5, 2016, at 16:23, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> In order to get my wife to spend the night at the boat in the summer (In 
> Georgia) there was only 1 option: A/C. We tried it without 1 night and she 
> was ready to go home the next day. 
> 
> It gets really hot and sometimes stupid humid, especially in the boat so the 
> A/C was mandatory except I had multiple other higher priority places to spend 
> 2,500 or so bucks (Still do).  
> 
> Solution? I bought a  "Room" 12,000 BTU  Air Conditionner..  
> 
> It's still there on Amazon:  
> https://www.amazon.com/LG-Electronics-Portable-Conditioner-LP1213GXR/dp/B00DZQGHIA
>  
> 
> I paid 299.00 shipped for a refurbished unit and it's been very impressive.  
> Fortunately for us the boat has a separate shower stall which we don't use 
> while at the dock so the A/C goes in there.  There is Lewmar hatch on the 
> shower ceiling so that takes care of the exhaust.  We use a 3 - 4 
> strategically placed fans to move the air around it's plenty to cool off the 
> cabin.  I've been there during the day with 100 degrees sun beating the deck 
> and the A/C still keeps it in the high 70's with no humidity. At night it 
> will cool down the boat to however cold you want it.
> 
> This year I started controlling the humidity when we're not there using this: 
>  
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/DampRid-64-oz-Fragrance-Free-High-Capacity-Moisture-Absorber-FG50T/100391308
> 
> It's also surprisingly effective, and does help keep the "boat smell" in 
> check. 
> 
> -Francois Rivard
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, GA
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Window Replacement C-2

[Indigo via CnC-List]

Not sure where you are located but Select Plastics in Norwalk CT is the "go to" 
guy in this part of the world. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Jun 29, 2016, at 14:24, johnr via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Good discussions on this site re how to do this.  I believe someone posted a 
> site for access to the window material, not the setting and sealing material 
> and I though I had saved it, but do not find.
> 
> Where did those of you who have replaced windows obtained the window material 
> and did you cut and shape it yourself or how did you have it done?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> John McLaughlin
> Falcon
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List SOS signals - LED light to replace flares?

[Indigo via CnC-List]

Might be a "no brainier" financially, would you really want to rely on an 
orange flag to draw attention to yourself if in trouble during the day? While I 
know we'd all have vhf radios as well, I'd rather have flares - and even at 
night  I doubt if many bozo's on the water would even know what a flashing ... 
---... would even mean!! 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Jun 15, 2016, at 00:16, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> An orange distress flag for daytime (which is included) and you meet the regs


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Stupid Reefing Mistake

[Indigo via CnC-List]

That would make sense. Many loose fitted mains use a Velcro strop to hold the 
clew down - even when not reefed. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Jun 14, 2016, at 15:06, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> I was told that you should use a clew strop (in addition to the reefing 
> line). If the reefing line goes your sail would not rip.
>  
> If you don’t believe me, you can look at some of the supermaxis; most of them 
> use it.
>  
> And if you want to make it easy, use some Velcro strap.
>  
> Marek
>  
> From: Indigo via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, June 14, 2016 14:30
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Indigo
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Stupid Reefing Mistake
>  
> Fwiw - and I am sure others may have different opinions - I never use any 
> lines through the reef points. Just the tack (hook) and clew (reefing lines) 
> are used to hold the foot of the sail. That way never a chance to rip the 
> sail or accidentally restrain the main sheet. 
> 
> Even with a second reef (very rare) I don't find my sail has too much 
> unrestrained cloth hanging by the boom - especially as I will always put the 
> first reef in before the second. 
> 
> --
> Jonathan
> Indigo C 35III
> SOUTHPORT CT
> 
> > On Jun 14, 2016, at 13:12, Sam Wheeler via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> > wrote:
> > 
> > Hi all,
> > 
> > Just thought I'd share a dumb mistake I made in case anyone out there 
> > doesn't reef very often and might learn from it when the time comes.  
> > 
> > I went out on Sunday with a few friends in heavy air, with the main fully 
> > reefed to the second reef points.  I don't keep lines in my reef points so 
> > I use the sail ties to strap them down when I reef.  This time, I wasn't 
> > thinking and tied the straps around the whole boom - including the main 
> > sheet.
> > 
> > We were sailing upwind with no need to let out the sheet so I didn't notice 
> > the problem until we tried to turn down and head home, and it wouldn't go 
> > out.  And to make matters slightly worse, we lost a canvas winch cover 
> > overboard in the process and weren't able (didn't try) to go back for it 
> > with the sheet jammed.  It was easy enough to retie the straps correctly 
> > but it took a little while and we were lucky to have plenty of open water 
> > to do it and no really urgent need to bear down.  Lesson learned: make sure 
> > to tie the reef point lines inside the sheet.
> > 
> > (The other mistake that I'm now realizing that I made was cinching the 
> > straps tight.  Better to tie them loose just to keep everything together, 
> > since those mid-sail reef points aren't reinforced to take load.)
> > 
> > Sam
> > 35-3
> > SF
> > ___
> > 
> > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
> > like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
> > Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Stupid Reefing Mistake

[Indigo via CnC-List]

Fwiw - and I am sure others may have different opinions - I never use any lines 
through the reef points. Just the tack (hook) and clew (reefing lines) are used 
to hold the foot of the sail. That way never a chance to rip the sail or 
accidentally restrain the main sheet. 

Even with a second reef (very rare) I don't find my sail has too much 
unrestrained cloth hanging by the boom - especially as I will always put the 
first reef in before the second. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Jun 14, 2016, at 13:12, Sam Wheeler via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> Just thought I'd share a dumb mistake I made in case anyone out there doesn't 
> reef very often and might learn from it when the time comes.  
> 
> I went out on Sunday with a few friends in heavy air, with the main fully 
> reefed to the second reef points.  I don't keep lines in my reef points so I 
> use the sail ties to strap them down when I reef.  This time, I wasn't 
> thinking and tied the straps around the whole boom - including the main sheet.
> 
> We were sailing upwind with no need to let out the sheet so I didn't notice 
> the problem until we tried to turn down and head home, and it wouldn't go 
> out.  And to make matters slightly worse, we lost a canvas winch cover 
> overboard in the process and weren't able (didn't try) to go back for it with 
> the sheet jammed.  It was easy enough to retie the straps correctly but it 
> took a little while and we were lucky to have plenty of open water to do it 
> and no really urgent need to bear down.  Lesson learned: make sure to tie the 
> reef point lines inside the sheet.
> 
> (The other mistake that I'm now realizing that I made was cinching the straps 
> tight.  Better to tie them loose just to keep everything together, since 
> those mid-sail reef points aren't reinforced to take load.)
> 
> Sam
> 35-3
> SF
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Friday Night Rescue - now using life sling

[Indigo via CnC-List]

I have always understood that to deploy the life sling we should make a fairly 
large circle round the victim and the horseshoe would act as a sort of anchor 
and make the line get closer and closer to the victim without the boat needing 
to get close. Once the victim (assuming capable ) has grasped the line we 
should stop the boat and pull in the line and the victim. Have I got it wrong?

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Jun 13, 2016, at 16:34, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Also, keep in mind that when you use a Life Sling, when you pass by the 
> person in  the water, you have to be close to him/her for the sling to be 
> within reach.


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Roller Furling Line

[Indigo via CnC-List]

I may be totally wrong, but I don't think there is a direct correlation between 
the length of the foot and length of furling line. The marker the diameter of 
the drum, the longer the circumference and thus the longer the line required 
for one rotation - but the circumference of a roll of sail will be potentially 
very different. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Jun 12, 2016, at 07:01, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> plus the foot length (24')


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Roller Furling Line

[Indigo via CnC-List]

Those 2 rolls by hand will be on the "wrong" way as the only way to get them on 
the drum is to rotate the sail and furler.  I think the better way to get the 
extra rolls on the drum would be to wait to attach the line to the drum until 
the sail has been over furled by hand several times. I am thinking 10 times 
plus ( probably have to take off the sheets) - then attach the furling line. 
Remember that when furling the sail in windy conditions your sail is going to 
be much more tightly wound round the headstay and thus require many more turns 
of the drum to get it fully furled.  Remember that you will usually be furling 
with the sail under a little bit (or sometimes with a lot) of load and the 
furling line will be more tightly wrapped round the drum allowing for a larger 
number of turns before getting "jammed". 

Btw I suspect that your problem in the first instance was caused by letting the 
jib unfurl without having any tension on the furling line.  Happened to me once 
- had to spend a good hour on the bow while it was bouncing up and down in big 
waves / big wind at the entrance to Narraganset Bay.  I now insist on keeping a 
little tension on the furling line as it runs when the sail unfurls. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Jun 11, 2016, at 21:30, Edward Levert via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Now attach the new line to the drum with the sail fully furled. Add 2 rolls 
> by hand.


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Right of way (ROW) discussion

[Indigo via CnC-List]

 Here's the link to the video of the idiotic sailor who tried to cross in front 
of a freighter during Cowes Week in 2011. The skipper was fined GBP 3000!
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=_tUoUxzt9sI

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Jun 9, 2016, at 16:01, robert via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Tanzer 26 actually broadsided a container ship
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Right of way (ROW) discussion

[Indigo via CnC-List]

I have a friend who writes and gives Connecticut SafeBoating classes - needed 
for operating boats in CT.  Just asked him as to the pecking order of manually 
propelled vessels. He replied that they are treated as sailing vessels. Which 
is fine provided that the meeting is between a power vessel and a paddleboarder 
- but I'll be damned if I know how to tell if a paddle boarder is on a port or 
starboard tack when I am crossing him in my sailboat!!


--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Right of way (ROW) discussion

[Indigo via CnC-List]

As far as I know, speed of vessel plays no part in determining ROW.  If it did, 
a power boat with a displacement hull would be able to claim ROW  over one 
with a planning hull.  Maritime attorneys may argue over "restricted in 
manouverabity" but I think it would be safe to say that if the rower was 
keeping a good lookout he/she would not put themselves in a position where they 
were unable to avoid a collision because they could not keep out of the way. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Jun 8, 2016, at 07:21, Gary Russell via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> wrote:
> 
> Jonathan,
>  While what you say may be true, it is also true that a slow moving 
> (manually propelled) vessel would have a very hard time getting out of the 
> way of a faster vessel.  It's sort of like a pedestrian in a crosswalk.
> 
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> '90 C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> 
> ~~~_/)~~~~~~
> 
> 
>> On Tue, Jun 7, 2016 at 9:23 PM, Indigo via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
>> wrote:
>> I would think that "manually propelled" vessels form a different class of 
>> vessels.  When two vessels belonging to different classes meet, the vessel 
>> belonging to the more maneuverable class is the "give way" vessel. In 
>> general, manually propelled vessels have minimal draft, and can therefor go 
>> where most other vessels cannot. This imho would place manually propelled 
>> vessels at the absolute bottom of the pecking order and be required to give 
>> way to all other classes of vessels.  While I am always courteous and 
>> careful around them, they do irritate me hugely when they insist in sticking 
>> to the middle of a channel! 
>> 
>> --
>> Jonathan
>> Indigo C 35III
>> SOUTHPORT CT
>> 
>>> On Jun 7, 2016, at 20:46, Dennis C. via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Saw a post on a local yacht club board this week.  Seems a sailboat was 
>>> approaching a group of stand up paddle boarders (SUP's).  Sailor didn't 
>>> know who had ROW.  As he went by the SUP's, he asked them.  They didn't 
>>> know either.
>>> 
>>> With the exception of required lights, the rules seem to be minimal on 
>>> situations with oared craft such as dinghies, SUP's, kayaks, canoes, etc.  
>>> The Admiral and I rarely put the outboard on our dinghy.  We just row 
>>> ashore or to neighboring boats.
>>> 
>>> Here's some vague guidance:  from navcen.uscg.gov: 
>>> 
>>> "13. Where do Kayaks and Canoes fit into the Navigation Rules? Neither the 
>>> International nor Inland Navigation Rules address "kayaks" or "canoes" per 
>>> se, except in regards to "vessels under oars" in Rule 25 regarding lights. 
>>> One could infer that a "vessel under oars" should be treated as a "sailing 
>>> vessel" since it is permitted to display the same lights as one, but, 
>>> ultimately the issue of whom "gives way" would fall to what would be 
>>> "required by the ordinary practice of seamen, or by the special 
>>> circumstances of the case" (Rule 2)." Source: 
>>> http://www.navcen.uscg.gov/?pageName=navRulesFAQ#0.3_13
>>> 
>>> Interesting topic.  What say you?
>>> 
>>> Dennis C.
>>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>>> Mandeville, LA
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
>>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Right of way (ROW) discussion

[Indigo via CnC-List]

I stand corrected (and better informed). I was only thinking of meeting 
situations in harbors / channels which is where I usually run into (not 
literally) paddle boarders and kayakers. In open waters it makes perfect 
sense that they would have right of way. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Jun 7, 2016, at 22:53, William Hall via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> wrote:
> 
> Interesting. I'd always learned that rowboats, canoes and the like had the 
> right of way over sail, motor, etc, at least when meeting in open water free 
> of obstructions.  That usually seems to make sense, as a sailboat with a 
> decent breeze can usually avoid the paddler easily.
> 
> Here's a reference supporting this general interpretation:  
> http://newboatbuilders.com/boating/navrules.html . I'd imagine opposing 
> viewpoints can come up with opposing references.
> 
> The example Jonathan brings up is a situation where the sailboat is 
> constrained and the paddler should try to give way.  Knowledgeable paddlers 
> know to stay out of the way of boats in the channel, just as we sailors know 
> to stay out of the way of freighters!  Actually, there's also reference in 
> Dennis' link to similar situations, both "vessels constrained by their draft" 
> and rule 9, narrow channels.
> 
> This topic of sail vs paddle reminds me of a number of incidents from my days 
> on the sailing team in college.  We raced dinghies on the Charles River in 
> Cambridge / Boston, which was also the home of quite a bit of human powered 
> traffic including rowing shells. Shells are very fast, but very slow to turn, 
> especially the eights that were often out practicing.  We were told to stay 
> out of their way, but on occasion during a drifter there wasn't much we could 
> do, and the shells had to avoid us since we couldn't avoid them.
> 
> In one of the first regattas where I had just started to figure out how to do 
> well, I managed to lead around the last leeward mark and thought I had the 
> race wrapped up, heading into the finish.  Approaching the finish, an eight 
> that had decided to row through our course realized (probably because of all 
> the yelling from other sailors) that they could have picked a better place to 
> go.  They decided to turn around, and in the process completely blocked the 
> finish line, overlapping both finish marks with their long hull just as I 
> arrived.  As the first one there, there was nothing to do but wait and guess 
> which end of the line was going to open up first.  Unfortunately I guessed 
> wrong and lost quite a few places.   In hindsight it seems pretty funny - 
> they couldn't have timed or placed their turn worse had they tried.
> 
> Bill
> C 37 Starfire
> Ludington, MI
> 
> 
> 
>> On Tue, Jun 7, 2016 at 9:23 PM, Indigo via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
>> wrote:
>> I would think that "manually propelled" vessels form a different class of 
>> vessels.  When two vessels belonging to different classes meet, the vessel 
>> belonging to the more maneuverable class is the "give way" vessel. In 
>> general, manually propelled vessels have minimal draft, and can therefor go 
>> where most other vessels cannot. This imho would place manually propelled 
>> vessels at the absolute bottom of the pecking order and be required to give 
>> way to all other classes of vessels.  While I am always courteous and 
>> careful around them, they do irritate me hugely when they insist in sticking 
>> to the middle of a channel! 
>> 
>> --
>> Jonathan
>> Indigo C 35III
>> SOUTHPORT CT
>> 
>>> On Jun 7, 2016, at 20:46, Dennis C. via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Saw a post on a local yacht club board this week.  Seems a sailboat was 
>>> approaching a group of stand up paddle boarders (SUP's).  Sailor didn't 
>>> know who had ROW.  As he went by the SUP's, he asked them.  They didn't 
>>> know either.
>>> 
>>> With the exception of required lights, the rules seem to be minimal on 
>>> situations with oared craft such as dinghies, SUP's, kayaks, canoes, etc.  
>>> The Admiral and I rarely put the outboard on our dinghy.  We just row 
>>> ashore or to neighboring boats.
>>> 
>>> Here's some vague guidance:  from navcen.uscg.gov: 
>>> 
>>> "13. Where do Kayaks and Canoes fit into the Navigation Rules? Neither the 
>>> International nor Inland Navigation Rules address "kayaks" or "canoes" per 
>>> se, except in regards to "vessels under oars" in Rule 25 regarding lights. 
>>> One could i

Re: Stus-List Right of way (ROW) discussion

[Indigo via CnC-List]

I would think that "manually propelled" vessels form a different class of 
vessels.  When two vessels belonging to different classes meet, the vessel 
belonging to the more maneuverable class is the "give way" vessel. In general, 
manually propelled vessels have minimal draft, and can therefor go where most 
other vessels cannot. This imho would place manually propelled vessels at the 
absolute bottom of the pecking order and be required to give way to all other 
classes of vessels.  While I am always courteous and careful around them, they 
do irritate me hugely when they insist in sticking to the middle of a channel! 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Jun 7, 2016, at 20:46, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Saw a post on a local yacht club board this week.  Seems a sailboat was 
> approaching a group of stand up paddle boarders (SUP's).  Sailor didn't know 
> who had ROW.  As he went by the SUP's, he asked them.  They didn't know 
> either.
> 
> With the exception of required lights, the rules seem to be minimal on 
> situations with oared craft such as dinghies, SUP's, kayaks, canoes, etc.  
> The Admiral and I rarely put the outboard on our dinghy.  We just row ashore 
> or to neighboring boats.
> 
> Here's some vague guidance:  from navcen.uscg.gov: 
> 
> "13. Where do Kayaks and Canoes fit into the Navigation Rules? Neither the 
> International nor Inland Navigation Rules address "kayaks" or "canoes" per 
> se, except in regards to "vessels under oars" in Rule 25 regarding lights. 
> One could infer that a "vessel under oars" should be treated as a "sailing 
> vessel" since it is permitted to display the same lights as one, but, 
> ultimately the issue of whom "gives way" would fall to what would be 
> "required by the ordinary practice of seamen, or by the special circumstances 
> of the case" (Rule 2)." Source: 
> http://www.navcen.uscg.gov/?pageName=navRulesFAQ#0.3_13
> 
> Interesting topic.  What say you?
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Throttle Cable Adjustment

[Indigo via CnC-List]

My 35-3 (1983) Edson pedestal contains a bolt that applies pressure on the part 
of the throttle lever inside the pedestal. I did away with an external cable 
clamp as the clamp had over time broken the cable outer sleeve causing the 
cable to rust up and jam. The downside to the bolt in the pedestal is that I 
have to take off the compass housing to get at it in order to make adjustments. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On May 24, 2016, at 12:16, Lee Rosenbaum via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Having an issue with my throttle cable not staying at RPM above 2,000.  It 
> falls right after I let go. I can set it higher when moving it at the engine, 
> but not at the helm.  How does one adjust the cable on a 1985 C 33-2?  Or 
> is there a way to oil the cable?  PO used a bungee cord to hold it at higher 
> RPM.
> 
> Thanks,
> Lee
> Kookaburra 1985 33-2
> Kenosha, WI
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Seasickness

[Indigo via CnC-List]

I used Stugeron for a delivery trip from Bermuda to Newport. Took it a couple 
of days ahead of the trip. One day out we ran into nasty sea conditions. 
Stugeron was not working for me. Fortunately the skipper had Scopolomene 
patches. Worked like a charm. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On May 5, 2016, at 09:51, Michael Crombie via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Does anyone have an opinion or experience with Dramamine vs Scopolamine?? If 
> one takes Dramamine, should it be taken for 1-2 days before heading out?
> 
> I've used Scopolamine before and it was moderately effective, but i'll be 
> going on a long rough passage on the outside of of Vancouver Island next week 
> and was wondering about trying Dramamine.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Mike 
> Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
> Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Ball Caps

[Indigo via CnC-List]

I have used Queensboro Shirts for custom embroidery many times. They do a free 
logo set up, supposedly for only the first one but have never charged me for 
changes or new logos. Their products are great quality - embroidery outstanding 
- and best of all have a 4 item minimum - and can be 4 different garments / 
hats etc.   They also have a service that allows clubs etc to set up a "store" 
- allowing members to order items - and allow the club to get a cut - might be 
worth a look to set something up on the c 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Apr 5, 2016, at 17:48, Peter Fell via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I just got a '4imprint' catalog at work. I've probably tossed a couple dozen 
> of these in the recycle but this time I thought ... C caps? 
>  
> Good looking 2-tone ('wave' of colour on the bill) cap including embroidery 
> with no tape setup charge is:
>  
> $8.75 ea for 36
> $7.95 ea for 72
> $6.95 ea for 144
> $6.50 ea for 288
> $5.76 ea for 576
>  
> Cheaper single-colour option is on sale until 15 May:
>  
> $7.25 ea for 48
> $6.75 ea for 72
> $5.50 ea for 144
> $4.95 ea for 288
> $4.50 ea for 676
>  
> Set-up tape charge of $35 for 72 pieces or less
>  
> All prices in $CAD
>  
> They will send you free samples
>  
> www.4imprint.ca
>  
> Not sure how those prices compare with others.
>  
> Looks like they might be based in Windsor (it’s just listed as a PO Box 
> number ... so it’s probably actually serviced out of Detroit).
>  
> I’ve sail before and I’m still thinking that bulk shipment to ‘regional’ reps 
> would be the cheapest for final distribution and that rep could hit the local 
> C Rendezvous.
>  
> Next year you approach places like HMP to take some items to the Toronto Boat 
> show on the groups behalf or let a rep use a corner of their booth and 
> perhaps Shoreline as well (since both still have some C parts stock) ? 
> Other areas could approach their local suppliers that cater to the sailboat 
> crowd to do same.
>  
> I would highly suspect that water bottles and coffee mugs would be a good 
> seller too.
>  
> Peter Fell
> Sidney, BC
> Cygnet
> C 27 MkIII
>  
> -Original Message-
> From: Stu via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, March 18, 2015 7:41 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Ball Caps
>  
> Seveeral months ago we stopped selling the Ball Caps and for several good
> reasons.
>  
> Gladys, the embroidery queen, wore out her $2000 sewing machine and could
> not justify replacing it.  I learned quite a few new words when she was
> sewing the caps.
>  
> We were purchasing decent hats wholesale and the company dropped the line
> and introduced a new line at almost twice the cost.
>  
> The Post Office increased the cost of shipping.  Shipping to the USA went
> from $5.00 to almost $8.00.  To ship in Canada to the west coast it was
> over $14.00.  Even having a commercial account with Canada Post, the costs
> were outrageous.  Fedex, UPS and others out completely out of the picture.
>  
> Every time the costs went up, I tried to absorb it but eventually it was
> costing us and Gladys got nothing for her frustrations.
>  
> I'll pursue the matter this summer and see if we can get a commercial
> company to make the hats for us at a reasonable cost and see if there is a
> shipping method that is affordable.
>  
> Now if you have someone who can handle a needle and thread, Gladys is
> still doing the embroidered C patches on another machine.  Get yourself
> a hat and have someone sew the patch on for you.
>  
> I'll certainly look into the possibility of getting the hats back online.
>  
> Stu
>  
>  
> ___
>  
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>  
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Folding prop for 30-1 with A4

[Indigo via CnC-List]

 "No two blade prop will do very well in reverse although I would get a geared 
one so that you can be sure that it opened."

Have to disagree with this statement. My 35-III with a two blade Max-prop goes 
very well in reverse. In fact in tight situations I often prefer to extract 
myself in reverse!

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Dec 22, 2015, at 10:10, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> No two blade prop will do very well in reverse although I would get a geared 
> one so that you can be sure that it opened.

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Lines led forward

[Indigo via CnC-List]

I am with you Joel.  The least number of people moving around on deck - 
especially at night - the better. The recent tests by Yachting Monthly (I think 
it was) on the dangers of going overboard while tethered were terrifying.  (I 
need to find a way to run my jack lines midships instead of along the decks - 
in particular where to tie off the jack lines near the cockpit so a crew can 
clip in before leaving the cockpit)

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Dec 22, 2015, at 11:28, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I like staying in the cockpit!

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Fuel vents

[Indigo via CnC-List]

This explains why I never get any fuel dripping out of the vent before the fill 
pipe overflows!  How do others make sure the tank is full without causing a 
small spill? (Especially with a less than sensitive fuel gauge!)

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Dec 14, 2015, at 12:14, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I finally crawled into the lazarette this weekend.  The vent hose is looped 
> under the coaming on my 35/3, so the loop is nearly a foot higher than the 
> thru-hull under the toe-rail.  Once again, the guys in Niagara on the Lake 
> got it right!  
> 
> Joel
> 35/3
> Annapolis
> 
>> On Sat, Oct 31, 2015 at 10:45 AM, Michael Brown via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> The trap would answer the question if the water was in fact coming in the 
>> vent line.
>> If it was, it might identify the conditions that cause it.
>> 
>> I could imagine water splashing in a few tablespoons at a time, but not 
>> causing an
>> issue until enough accumulated in the tank to get picked up. That would 
>> leave the
>> owner wondering how a gallon of water got in.
>> 
>> Michael Brown
>> Windburn
>> C 30-1
>> 
>> 
>> Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2015 14:13:32 -0500 
>> From: "Dennis C."  
>> To: CnClist  
>> Subject: Stus-List Other fuel system water ingress sources 
>> Message-ID: 
>>  
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" 
>> 
>> While we're on the subject, two other things to check: 
>> 
>> 1.  Fuel fill cap gasket o-ring 
>> 2.  Fuel fill cap if plastic.  It could be cracked. 
>> 
>> Dennis C. 
>> 
>> Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2015 16:38:03 -0900 
>> From: Josh Muckley  
>> To: "C List"  
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel vents 
>> Message-ID: 
>>  
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" 
>> 
>> Michael, 
>> 
>> I can see what you were going for and I think it would partially work. 
>> Ideally a larger drop-out tank could be attached to the drain fitting and a 
>> fluid sensor added.   In my case it seems simpler to just re-plumb the vent 
>> inside the adjacent propane locker or up a lifeline stanchion.  I don't 
>> think it would out perform a centerline vent loop either. 
>> 
>> Josh Muckley 
>> S/V Sea Hawk 
>> 1989 C 37+ 
>> Solomons, MD 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Jumper Batteries

[Indigo via CnC-List]

I bought a mPower Jump last winter to replace an old clunky starter pack to 
keep on board Indigo.  Not 100% confident that it would start the diesel 3GMF, 
I charged up the unit at home - used it twice to start my Honda Accord, and 
then without recharging it, used it in May to start the boat with no other 
batteries connected - worked just great on the diesel that had not been run 
since laying up in the winter. 

Specs from their website below!
> 
> The mPower Jump. Always With You, Always Ready, Always Easy to Use.
> Jump starts all 12V cars including 8 cylinder vehicles
> Fits in a glove box
> Automatic On Technology
> Multiple safety protection
> High capacity battery technology
> 600A peak current
> Technical Specifications:
> Input: 12V 1A
> Output: 12V
> Jump start Start Current: 300A
> Peak Current: 600A
> Size: 7.09 x 2.76 x 1.38
> Weight: 1.52 lbs.
> Operating Temperature: -20° C-60° C/-4° F-140° F
> Battery Capacity: 13000mAh
> Full Charging Time: Approx 4h
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Club Team scoring with PHRF

[Indigo via CnC-List]

Not quite sure I understand the problem - but I think it to be one of trying to 
"aggregate" results of different boats across different divisions / classes.  
This would appear to be similar to the need in the Block Island and Vineyard 
Races where teams of three boats register for team trophies. I am not 100% sure 
- others can probably help here - but what I think the scorers do is to 
"weight" the actual place in class/ division by the number of boats in that 
division - such that a boat scoring 1st in a division with 3 boats will get a 
poorer score than a boat scoring 1st in a division with 10 boats.   You might 
find out the actual method on the Vineyard Race website. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Nov 30, 2015, at 17:36, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hey listers;
> 
> We have two reasonably active PHRF fleets on the Neuse River in NC that are 
> about 3 hours apart by boat.
> 
> In an effort to get boats to move from one venue to another (increasing the 
> fleet size in each open but club run regatta), we have been using
> a simple PHRF scoring scheme that has its problems so I thought I'd check the 
> list to see if any of you have
> solved it differently and perhaps with less drama than we have.
> 
> Each club run regatta has spin and non-spin classes with PHRF splits at about 
> 100 and 200, sometimes with divisions within
> the classes. Clubs need 5 boats entered in total to qualify and then the top 
> 5 boat's scores from each club, whether
> spin or non-spin, are averaged to determine the winning club. We really don't 
> have enough boats racing
> to routinely fix the PHRF splits for a season as the CBYRA apparently does. 
> We have used both the default US Sailing scoring
> system as well as the High Point Average at various times--we are familiar 
> with them all. 
> 
> This has more or less worked unless the OA decides to extend the PHRF ratings 
> to get enough boats in a division
> to have better competition. Since our inter-club racing committee doesn't run 
> these regattas (the clubs do),
> our committee cannot require the clubs to use fixed PHRF splits or otherwise 
> do anything except recommend the splits, 
> fix the definition of cruising boats, etc.
> 
> Our clubs do not really have an option to buy and race the same boats for a 
> team score as some (GYA, etc.) do. We are all
> PHRF racers with cruisers or racer/cruisers with a few smaller but different 
> boats (1 Viper, 1 J-80, 1 Rocket-22, 2 Etchells and sometimes
> several San Juan 21s) all racing PHRF.
> 
> I doubt that there is an ideal solution but maybe the listers might be able 
> to help me decide between "...the lesser of two "weevils..."'
> on how to come up with a team score recognizing our limitations.
> 
> Our committee does not want to run the regattas, just score them (or team 
> purposes) with minimum drama about the PHRF splits.
> 
> TIA,
> 
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> C 36 XL/kcb
> 
>  
> 
> cenel...@aol.com
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Removal of Datamarine depth transponder

[Indigo via CnC-List]

I have not been able to remove the transducer itself.  I am hoping to remove it 
and send it to DMI for repair / replacement. I was beginning to think that the 
transducer might have an integral flange instead of a thru hull but your post 
tells me otherwise - assuming we are talking about the same unit. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Nov 25, 2015, at 10:19, Patrick Davin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I removed my Datamarine speed transducer last spring. I spent probably 3 
> hours trying every non-destructive method I could think of before I had to 
> move to destructive methods.  Should have done so earlier since I didn't need 
> to save it anyway (was replacing with an Airmar / Raymarine triducer). 
> 
> Note - I'm assuming you actually have removed the transponder, and the 
> *thru-hull sleeve* is what you're trying to remove. The transponder 
> (transducer) should be relatively easy to remove from the thru-hull sleeve 
> with some wiggling or heating. 
> 
> My thruhull looked like it was bedded with something more pliable/spongy than 
> 5200, but mallets, heat, levers, and pulling were not enough to budge it. I 
> also had the plywood backing plate glued to the hull. It was not threaded / 
> tapped.
> 
> I discovered the easy way is to cut the thruhull in half, lengthwise along 
> the inner circumference, with a hacksaw blade. I just used the blade alone 
> clamped in some vice grips. By cutting the plastic thruhull in half you 
> weaken the outward pressure of the circle and enable basically peeling each 
> half away from the hull. Be careful not to cut too deep or you'll nick the 
> hull fiberglass. 
> 
> I have pictures if you need them. 
> 
> @ Steve Thomas: The Datamarine speed transducer in my experience was exactly 
> the same diameter as the Airmar transducers. Are you saying the depth trans 
> is smaller than the speed? That would be surprising, but I suppose it's 
> possible.
> 
> -Patrick
> C LF38
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Removal of Datamarine depth transponder

[Indigo via CnC-List]

More on removal. 
So I looked more closely at the transponder and found that it appeared to be 
held in place with a threaded "collar" - this came off easily. However the 
transponder itself won't budge.  I tried to tap the top of the transponder with 
a mallet, being careful not to damage the wire, but there was no noticible 
movement. There is a piece of plywood bonded to the inside of the hull which 
gives allows the collar to be screwed tight. The hole through the plywood is 
tight against the transponder, but I don't think tight enough to hold it in 
place against mallet taps. 

Am I missing some other retainer - or it the through hull  itself threaded?


--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Nov 9, 2015, at 06:32, Indigo  wrote:
> 
> I need to remove my Datamarine transponder to send it to DMI for repair.  
> Does anyone know how it is held in place in the through hull. I can't see any 
> retaining pins etc - yet it has a "t" like handle which implies it should be 
> removable with ease. 
> 
> --
> Jonathan
> Indigo C 35III
> SOUTHPORT CT

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Shift / throttle cables

[Indigo via CnC-List]

I replaced my throttle cable 2 years ago. The "after market" clamp had split 
the outer sheath and moisture getting to the rod had caused it to rust and 
become stiff.  I chose not to replace the clamp and to use the internal bolt in 
the pedestal to set the tension. Worked ok for a while - but is now allowing 
too much slippage. It's a pia to have to take off the compass to re- adjust - 
just one of the winter projects!

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Nov 9, 2015, at 21:33, Chuck S via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> My throttle cable came with a small clamp that squeezes the outer plastic 
> sheath against the inner SS rod.  I've seen this same setup on several other 
> boats.  Without it, the throttle spring pulls the lever till the engine slows 
> to an idle.  Some Edson binacles have a screw that serves the same purpose.  
> When you pull the compass, it can be seen as a SS screw that puts pressure on 
> the lever shaft.
> 
> 
> 
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
> 
> From: "John and Maryann Read via CnC-List" 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: "John and Maryann Read" 
> Sent: Sunday, November 8, 2015 9:25:31 PM
> Subject: Stus-List Shift / throttle cables
> 
> Have removed the shift and throttle cables as they were stiff and had 
> excessive resistance.  Not surprising as they are OEM and 33 years old.  Any 
> thoughts on suitable replacement and where to purchase??
>  
> On a related note, our Yanmar 3GM throttle has a built in internal spring 
> that applies increasing resistance as the throttle is opened more.  The OEM 
> fix was to put an adjustable crimp in the cable but that seems less than 
> ideal.  Any thoughts as to how to offset the internal spring??
>  
> Many thanks for your thoughts
>  
> John & Maryann
> Legacy III
> 1982 C 34
> Noank, CT
> 
> 
>   
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. 
> www.avast.com
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Removal of Datamarine depth transponder

[Indigo via CnC-List]

I need to remove my Datamarine transponder to send it to DMI for repair.  Does 
anyone know how it is held in place in the through hull. I can't see any 
retaining pins etc - yet it has a "t" like handle which implies it should be 
removable with ease. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Changing oil filter Yanmar 3gmf

[Indigo via CnC-List]

Jim,
This sounds like a good plan.  I think I might try this.  I also like the idea 
of taping some plastic sheet under the filter - I may even try taping a ziplock 
bag under the filter in such a way that I can drop the used filter straight in 
the bag.  As always, thanks to all who provided input and ideas. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Oct 31, 2015, at 20:42, Jim Watts via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> wrote:
> 
> I change the filter the day (or week) after I change the oil, without running 
> the engine in between. It's cold and as empty as it's going to get. I get 
> slight drippage but nothing a piece of paper towel can't handle.
> 
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
> 
>> On 31 October 2015 at 17:30, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> I would try puncturing the filter so the oil would drain down into the sump 
>> and then unscrew it with a shop towel or better yet with a cleaning 
>> serviette around the bottom. Then you wipe it clean. So far any of the 
>> proposed techniques worked for me.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Marek
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> From: ahycrace--- via CnC-List
>> Sent: October 31, 2015 11:57
>> 
>> 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: ahycr...@cox.net
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Changing oil filter Yanmar 3gmf
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I take a trash bag and push the opening onto the engine below the filter. 
>> When the filter is removed I just let the whole mess drop into the bag. I 
>> have a shop rag handy to wipe off any oil that escapes the bag. I have found 
>> that a large trash bag that is also thick works best and I take the first 
>> bag and drop it into another incase the first one gets a hole in it during 
>> the removal. I have done this for years, always works for me.
>> 
>>Gary 
>> Kolc
>>
>> "Liberty" 38' MK II
>> 
>> 
>>  Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: 
>> > I asked this same question about two years ago and tried both techniques. I
>> > found for myself that stuffing an absorbent pad around the filter was the
>> > best and least messy solution. I tried the bag trick twice but it actually
>> > made more of a mess because you just can't twist the filter very fast with
>> > the bag on, especially once the oil actually gets in the bag and lubricates
>> > the entire outside of the filter.
>> > 
>> > Just get the pad good and stuffed in at the base of the filter. It's the
>> > best way for me.
>> > 
>> > On Sat, Oct 31, 2015, 5:49 AM Tim Goodyear via CnC-List <
>> > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> > 
>> > > The ziplock bag helps.  If you want to have less oil in the filter,
>> > > punching a hole in the top with a screwdriver before you drain the oil 
>> > > also
>> > > helps, but there will be something to wipe up in any case.
>> > >
>> > > Tim
>> > >
>> > > > On Oct 31, 2015, at 8:41 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
>> > > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> > > >
>> > > > One neat trick I learned at a diesel clinic is, slide a gallon zip lock
>> > > up around the filter & then unscrew it letting it drip into the bag, then
>> > > drop the filter into the bag and seal.
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > > Bill Coleman
>> > > > C
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > >  Original message 
>> > > > From: Indigo via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> > > > Date: 10/31/2015 8:16 AM (GMT-05:00)
>> > > > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> > > > Cc: Indigo <ind...@thethomsons.us>
>> > > > Subject: Stus-List Changing oil filter Yanmar 3gmf
>> > > >
>> > > > I will be winterizing indigo tomorrow. I am looking for help from this
>> > > amazing group on techniques used to change the oil filter while 
>> > > minimizing
>> > > drips and spills.  I don't seem to be able to get the old filter off
>> > > without dripping oil down the side of the engine. What am I doing wrong?
>> > > >
>>

Stus-List Changing oil filter Yanmar 3gmf

[Indigo via CnC-List]

I will be winterizing indigo tomorrow. I am looking for help from this amazing 
group on techniques used to change the oil filter while minimizing drips and 
spills.  I don't seem to be able to get the old filter off without dripping oil 
down the side of the engine. What am I doing wrong?

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Boom Furling complications

[Indigo via CnC-List]

I have heard some not so positive things about NEB. They look after many "major 
money" clients - and the feeling was that unless you are in that league, you 
get short changed. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Oct 29, 2015, at 16:03, Andrew Burton via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hinckley is 433/ft for dry storage plus 11/ft for haul and wash. NEB is about 
> the same.
> I'm going to NEB rather than some of the other options around the bay because 
> they don't do anything in a slipshod manner. I know there are some places 
> that do. 
> Caveat emptor! 
> 
> Andy
> C 40 
> Peregrine
> 
>> On Thu, Oct 29, 2015 at 3:56 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> So, I'm looking around, does anyone know anything about the Borden Light 
>> Marina.  They have some good reviews on Active captain an another couple of 
>> sites but, anyone could write those.
>>  
>> Their rates are really cheap at $18/ft for wet storage and $33/ft for on 
>> land storage.  Thats a 3-4 hour trip for me by boat but, closer to drive 
>> from the house.
>>  
>> Danny
>> Westport Point, MA
>> 
>> 
>> -- Original Message --
>> From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
>> Cc: Joel Aronson 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom Furling complications
>> Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2015 15:27:59 -0400
>> 
>> Danny,
>>  
>> I assume you have projects to do over the winter.  Close to home helps get 
>> things done.
>> Wet store where you are and arrange for a haul-out and to have the bottom 
>> work to be done in the early spring.  You'll be blocking the lift, so they 
>> will have to turn it around quickly.
>>  
>> Joel
>> 
>>> On Thu, Oct 29, 2015 at 3:21 PM, Tim Goodyear via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> Danny,
>>>  
>>> New England Boatworks in Portsmouth, RI allows storage with the mast up 
>>> (and there's someone on the list that knows a lot about that location).  
>>> That's pretty close to Westport Point.
>>>  
>>> Tim
>>> 
 On Thu, Oct 29, 2015 at 3:06 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
  wrote:
 Hi All,
  
 So, it seems the yard said they cannot remove the mast because of the sail 
 track that rides up the mast track for the furling system.
  
 I basically have two options where they are concerned.  Find another yard 
 for storage or, wet store the boat in a slip.
  
 I don't think I would mind the wet storage option if she wasn't in such a 
 need for a bottom job.
  
 What do you guys think?
  
 The reason they cannot remove the mast is because they use a sling and the 
 sling would damage the track...
  
 Maybe someone can recommend a place nearby where I can store her on the 
 hard.  i know not every yard requires the removal of the mast.
  
 Danny
 Westport Point, MA
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
 bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
>>> bottom of page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> 
>> 
>>  
>> -- 
>> Joel 
>> 301 541 8551
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett Ave
> Newport, RI
> USA 02840
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> phone  +401 965 5260
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List C smile

[Indigo via CnC-List]

5 years ago my yard noticed a small amount of play in the keel on haul out. I 
had had a "smile" for a few years prior. The yard dropped the keel and 
re-bedded it etc. I have not had a "smile" since. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Oct 27, 2015, at 09:38, Harald Braun via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi, i have the C & C smile on my 1985 Mk 3 and want to know if anybody has 
> repaired it or had it done. I got a quote for 4 400.00 can. the crack is not 
> very deep.
> 
> cheers
> Harald
> from Spirit
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Anti-fouling paint -> devolving the basal plates

[Indigo via CnC-List]

Any harm in using muriatic acid on my bronze prop or s/s shaft? That's where I 
find most basal plates. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Oct 22, 2015, at 22:20, Rick Brass via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> A spray bottle of muriatic acid does the same thing. Use a cheap spray bottle 
> because you will only get to use it one time.
>  
>  
> Rick Brass
> Washington, NC
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dreuge via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2015 7:30 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Dreuge 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Anti-fouling paint -> devolving the basal plates
>  
> Robert,
>  
> The barnacle remains are called basal plates. If you are concerned about 
> over sanding
> than take a look at Barnacle Buster.  You spray it on, let it devolve the 
> basal plates, and wash it off.
> This stuff is great, but you need to keep it wet.
>  
> Here are two links providing info.   The first one is a write up in Practical 
> Sailor on using Barnacle Buster in a "Barnacle Remover Test “.  The second 
> info link, is a brochure. 
>  
> http://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/33_5/chandlery/5439-1.html
>  
> https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/pdfs/Trac_Ecological/TDS_Barnacle_Buster_2011.pdf
>  
>  
>  
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C 38 Landfall 
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Carrabelle, FL
>  
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
>  
> On Oct 22, 2015, at 6:41 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>  
> 
> Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2015 16:11:01 -0300
> From: robert 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Anti-fouling paint
> Message-ID: <562934c5.7040...@eastlink.ca>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed
> 
> For the past 4 sailing seasons, I have used Micron 66the first 3 
> seasons/haulouts, the bottom was void of any marine growth, and no 
> slime.didn't even need a pressure wash.
> 
> This haulout (season #4), the bottom was infested with barnaclesnot 
> a few scattered around, a significant number all overI wet sanded, 
> which removed the most of the little critters (and a lot of the 66) but 
> there are still traces of the 'little critters'.  Not sure if I will 
> sand them out completely or simply paint over them next Spring.
> 
> Anybody have this problem and how did you finally deal with it?
>  
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Hydrolocked!

[Indigo via CnC-List]

Isn't another "easy" way to turn over the engine repeatedly before starting 
with the seasick open?  I have been told to shut the sea cock after one or two 
failed starting attempts (beginning of season / cold weather) and only re-open 
when the engine is running. 

Presumably this would be the same advice you would give if hand cranking the 
engine to remove water from a hydro lock?

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Oct 22, 2015, at 00:04, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> An interesting question would how did you manage to hydro lock it.
>  
> The easiest way is to use garden hose to feed water into the cooling system 
> with a failed impeller. But what method did you use?
>  
> Marek
>  
> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
>  
>  
> 
> From: David Pulaski via CnC-List
> Sent: October 21, 2015 16:02
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: David Pulaski
> Subject: Stus-List Hydrolocked!
>  
>  
> Well this is a crappy way to end the season.  Short story is, I'm 99% 
> positive that I managed to get water in the cylinders in my Yanmar 3GM30F, 
> and now have a hydrolock.  Thankfully, the engine was not running when it 
> happened, but I *did* attempt to crank the motor with the starter a couple of 
> times before I realized what had happened.  So now, I'm worried  about 
> significant damage from two angles:
> 
> 1) Bent rods/crank/pistons?  I'm inclined to think that the starter motor 
> doesn't have nearly as much torque as the engine operating under normal load, 
> so I'm hoping that my attempts to crank didn't permanently do any damage such 
> as this.  Thoughts?
> 
> 2) Time: Unfortunately I can't get back there with tools and equipment to 
> attempt to rectify the hydrolock until Sunday, which means the engine will 
> have been sitting there with water in the cylinders for almost 4 days.  It's 
> mostly fresh / brackish water  (boat's on a mooring in a river mouth).  
> Chances of corrosion in the cylinders requiring a teardown?
> 
> Anyone have any experiences with hydrolocks they'd care to share?
> 
> Ugh...
> 
> 
>  
>  
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List boom

[Indigo via CnC-List]

Is it possible that it's the vang and not the gooseneck that's causing the 
squeak?

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Oct 22, 2015, at 11:24, Harald Braun via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi, I have a 1985 35 MK 3 C and my boom was making this awful squecking, 
> grinding noise, once the main was  down. I lubed it and still no luck. Really 
> annoying in an anchorage. Anybody has any suggestions?
> 
> Harald
> Kitchener, On
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List ridiculous water leak

[Indigo via CnC-List]

Had exactly the same problem a couple of years ago. Finally sourced the leak 
when I found the water in the bilge to be slightly warm!

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Oct 18, 2015, at 13:52, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> After spending several hours looking for the source of a water system leak, 
> it turned out to be a worn out safety pressure valve on the hot water heater. 
>  Luckily, it came out easily.
> 
> Off to Home Depot for a replacement.
> 
> Joel
> 35/3
> Annapolis
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Winterizing raw water intake

[Indigo via CnC-List]

Len
I agree with you and do basically the same - though I have a piece of dedicated 
hose with a male / male barb fitting in one end which I simply put into the 
hose that I remove from the through hull. Takes a little bit of quick moving to 
get to the engine panel to stop the engine before the antifreeze container is 
completely dry. 

While on the subject of winterization, until last year I always found it tricky 
to get all the oil out of the sump using the plastic hose supplied with my 
electric pump. Last year I found a connectors to connect a piece of copper pipe 
,with a small enough od to go down the dipstick "port", to the flexible hose. I 
can easily feel when the copper pipe touches the bottom of the sump.  Works 
like a charm. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Sep 28, 2015, at 13:59, Mitchell's via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Edd, I take the intake hose off and stuff a smaller hose in a couple inches 
> and re-clamp it. Use electrical tape to make the outside diameter fit 
> whatever small hose you have and pull antifreeze remotely. The less permanent 
> connections to sea water the better for less leak potential. I use a 2 or 3 
> foot piece of beverage hose and place a large antifreeze container on the 
> floor. Takes 10 seconds to rig and works every time. Factor the small size of 
> the opening in the antifreeze jug with whatever hose size you end up 
> installing. My 2 cents: keep it simple. Save your money for racing sails. 
> Len
> 
> Sent from my mobile device.
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Reboarding - was Re: - Inflable life jacket - inflation

[Indigo via CnC-List]

ngent, but I wanted to get some feedback on a recent 
> event in our marina that has a lot of us talking.
>  
> We have some friends that own a cruising boat.  The wife has been a little 
> hesitant about sailing in part because of poor swimming ability causing a 
> general fear of water.  She decided to confront her fears head on by 
> volunteering to do a live person overboard drill.  We got a bunch of people 
> on board their boat and enlisted a smaller boat as a chase boat.  She put on 
> an inflatable life jacket with an expiring sensor and jumped in the water in 
> the harbor.  It was at the end of a stretch of hot weather so there were 
> fewer fears about hypothermia and the waves were negligible, which is as good 
> as it gets for Lake Michigan. 
>  
> The PFD inflated immediately and brought her to the surface just fine, but 
> she found that the inflated bladder pretty much immobilized her.  She could 
> not lift her head properly or move her arms to maneuver to the throwables in 
> the water.  One of the people in the chase boat ultimately jumped in to get 
> her over to her boat and we got her back up on deck, but it was a more tense 
> process than any of us expected.  Our friend confronting her fears was 
> actually satisfied with the result, she was able to remain calm and 
> ultimately got back on the boat without injury, but it raised some doubts 
> about inflatable PFD’s with the rest of us.
>  
> Anyone have experience with actually deploying an inflatable PFD?  Were you 
> able to maneuver?  Did you need to partially deflate the bladder?
>  
> As a side note, we have gone looking for a good quality non-inflatable PFD 
> with a harness and crotch strap, which is becoming a requirement for some 
> races now and pretty much came up empty at this point.
>  
> Thanks,
>  
> Jim Reinardy
> C 30-2 “Firewater”
> Milwaukee, WI
>  
>  
> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
>  
>  
> 
> From: Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, September 16, 2015 5:08 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Kevin Driscoll
> Subject: Re: Stus-List - Inflable life jacket with harness recommendation
>  
>  
> My Kong tether has snap shackle for self eject.
>  
> On Wed, Sep 16, 2015 at 11:53 AM Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> don't forget to sign up for the PYacht email list before you place your order 
> and they'll give a 5% off code on a purchase over $100
>  
> five bucks is five bucks!
> 
> 
> -- Original Message --
> From: Indigo via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc: Indigo <ind...@thethomsons.us>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List - Inflable life jacket with harness recommendation
> Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2015 08:28:37 -0400
> 
> I don't recall - one of the early posts on the subject. At the price of these 
> at pyacht I might be tempted to replace my "spare" old style tethers. 
> 
> --
> Jonathan
> Indigo C 35III
> SOUTHPORT CT
> 
> On Sep 16, 2015, at 08:03, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> Mine does.  Which one are you looking at?  I’ve got the “Y” tether with one 
> six-foot leg and one three-foot leg; both of those have the positive-action 
> carabiners.  The harness end has a snap shackle with a pull-lanyard.  Like 
> this: http://www.pyacht.com/cgi-bin/pagegen.pl?pr+kng283sete.htm
>  
> — Fred
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>  
> On Sep 15, 2015, at 10:29 PM, Indigo via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> wrote:
> I am surprised to see that the Kong tether as illustrated does not have a 
> snap-shackle for use at the harness end to enable quick disconnect if needed. 
>  With any tension, you'd need to cut the tether in order to get free if you 
> were, say, trapped under water. 
> ___
> 
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
> 
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
>  
>  
> 
> 
> 
> ___
>  
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list

Re: Stus-List Signal Flags

[Indigo via CnC-List]

Someone once advised me never to rely on the loops in the signal flags to 
recover the halyard. I always use a messenger line attached directly to the 
shackle "just in case". 

For years I used two halyards - one for bow and one for stern - then saw some 
folks at Stamford YC use a single halyard - boy it's so much easier



--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Sep 18, 2015, at 12:15, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Stu,
> 
> No pictures, sorry. One of the loops on a signal flag came apart in the 
> overnight blow, dropping a few to the deck and the others streaming off the 
> halyard. We loosened the halyard completely in hopes that the breeze and 
> movement would work the flags some of the way down, inch by inch. Which it 
> did — a little. 
> 
> The next day, between Clinton and Black Rock, we had a lull in the breeze and 
> took the opportunity to do some turns to tangle some of the flags in the rig. 
> The lowest flag was now wrapped in the shroud under the lowest spreader. 
> 
> Once at dock in Black Rock, we used the extending boat hook to twist around 
> and grab the lowest flag, using the shroud to keep pressure on it — then 
> slowly pulled downwards. We finally got our hands on it and pulled the rest 
> down, got to the halyard shackle and then untangled the halyard. 
> 
> All back to normal now. 
> 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>   
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Sep 18, 2015, at 11:54 AM, Stu via CnC-List  wrote:
>> 
>> Edd
>>  
>> Did you get your signal flags down after the blow?  Any pictures?  Tell the 
>> world what happened.
>>  
>> Stu
>> ___
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List boat names

[Indigo via CnC-List]

One of the best boat naming stories I have heard resulted in the boat being 
called "Dispute". The husband and wife could not agree on a name!

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Sep 17, 2015, at 00:45, Patrick Davin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> When we were choosing our boat name recently we had a few guidelines: 
> - No puns, silly names, or motor boat names ("Master Baiter")
> - Relatively easy to pronounce, spell, and understand over the VHF
> - Uniqueness - some names are very common (Amazing Grace, Second Wind, etc) 
> and it'd be unfortunate to have the same name as someone else in the marina 
> or sailing region. Ideally it'd even be unique in the US Coast Guard database 
> (which you can check online), in case you ever want to become a documented 
> vessel.
> 
> If you're into music, a lot of our ideas revolved around song names - High 
> Hopes (Pink Floyd), An Awesome Wave (Alt-J), Tessellate (Alt-J). 
> 
> Although some names - like An Awesome Wave - can seem like they're tempting 
> the fates / sea gods. I wouldn't pick a name like Rogue Wave because for one 
> it might be bad luck, and if you ever do get into trouble, people will say "I 
> told you so."
> 
> -Patrick
> S/V Violet Hour, LF38
> Seattle, WA
> 
>> On Wed, Sep 16, 2015 at 8:49 PM,  wrote:
>> From: djhaug...@juno.com
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: 
>> Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2015 21:53:59 -0400
>> Subject: Stus-List boat names
>> OK coming up with a new name for our new boat is proving very difficult.
>> 
>> I thought I would throw it out to you guys for some ideas!
>> 
>> Maybe you came across something sometime and thought wow what a great name 
>> for a boat!
>> 
>> I can't believe this is so difficult... Lol
>> 
>> Danny
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List - Inflable life jacket with harness recommendation

[Indigo via CnC-List]

I don't recall - one of the early posts on the subject. At the price of these 
at pyacht I might be tempted to replace my "spare" old style tethers. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Sep 16, 2015, at 08:03, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> Mine does.  Which one are you looking at?  I’ve got the “Y” tether with one 
> six-foot leg and one three-foot leg; both of those have the positive-action 
> carabiners.  The harness end has a snap shackle with a pull-lanyard.  Like 
> this: http://www.pyacht.com/cgi-bin/pagegen.pl?pr+kng283sete.htm
> 
> — Fred
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
> 
>> On Sep 15, 2015, at 10:29 PM, Indigo via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
>> wrote:
>> 
>> I am surprised to see that the Kong tether as illustrated does not have a 
>> snap-shackle for use at the harness end to enable quick disconnect if 
>> needed.  With any tension, you'd need to cut the tether in order to get free 
>> if you were, say, trapped under water. 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List - Inflable life jacket with harness recommendation

[Indigo via CnC-List]

I am surprised to see that the Kong tether as illustrated does not have a 
snap-shackle for use at the harness end to enable quick disconnect if needed.  
With any tension, you'd need to cut the tether in order to get free if you 
were, say, trapped under water.  

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Sep 15, 2015, at 18:31, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I have the Kong double tether and highty recommend. You won't find a 
> cheaper/high quality 2x tether. (required for offshore racing). At a Safety 
> at Sea Seminar I witnessed the Spinlock Deckvest Pro inflate with the antenna 
> strobe and spray hood., I can tell you that this appears to be the gold 
> standard of all that inflated, including my own lifejacket. This is what I am 
> buying before my race to Hawaii in 2016.
> 
> DO NOT buy this one: 
> http://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-marine--offshore-sail-automatic-inflatable-life-jacket--14897433.
>  The straps are a poor design and loosen every 10 minutes when wearing it. I 
> used it for 6 mos and returned this weekend. What good is life jacket if you 
> cant keep it snug? 
> 
>> On Tue, Sep 15, 2015 at 2:55 PM Ken Heaton via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> My wife and I've both had the Mustang HIT Inflatable Life Jacket / PFD with 
>> Harness for about 5 years now.  Very comfortable.  The Neoprene Comfort 
>> Collar is an improvement over the older models.
>> 
>> http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|135|2290066|2290067=2686758
>> 
>> I added the leg straps (lousy photo and little info unfortunately): 
>> http://www.mustangsurvival.com/recreational/ma3032?country=23
>> 
>> The binnacle sells them: 
>> http://ca.binnacle.com/product_info.php?products_id=10246
>> 
>> Better photo here: http://www.ahoycaptain.com/mustang_27380.html
>> 
>> Ken H.
>> 
>>> On 15 September 2015 at 17:46, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> Hi guys,
>>>  
>>> I'm to buy an inflatable life jacket with a harness and tether and I'm 
>>> looking for recommendations.
>>>  
>>> I'm told I should get hydrostatic.  These things run up to $400.
>>>  
>>> Then there is a mustang version on sale at defender for $259.
>>>  
>>> I'm interested in what you guys use or recommend.
>>>  
>>> We don't go offshore much but, intend to further our cruising ground.
>>>  
>>> Danny
>>> Still moving toward a closing!
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
>>> bottom of page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Spreader lights

[Indigo via CnC-List]

This has got me thinking about portable lanterns that I used to use as a kid 
when camping. They ran off propane and gave off a nice soft light. Looks like 
Coleman make something similar. The advantage would be that I can use my grill 
propane cylinders  

--
Jonathan
Indigo CC 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

 On Aug 27, 2015, at 09:07, Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 The Admiral and I researched long and hard for a light to illuminate the 
 cockpit for meals, etc.  We settled on a UST 10 Day Lantern by Ultimate 
 Survival Technology.  Sells for under $30 on Amazon. 
 
 http://www.ustbrands.com/product/10-day-led-lantern-glo/
 
 Has bright, dim and strobe. We like it.  The light is not harsh. 
 
 Dennis C.
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
 On Aug 27, 2015, at 4:28 AM, jtsails via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 I like the idea of being able to select red or white. right now I just hang 
 a battery-powered camping lantern from the underside of the bimini but I’m 
 thinking of something that’s permanently mounted.
 James
 Delaney
 CC 38 Mk11
 Oriental, NC
  
  
 From: William Hall via CnC-List
 Sent: Wednesday, August 26, 2015 9:49 PM
 To: cnc-list
 Cc: William Hall
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Spreader lights
  
 I had dinner on a friend's very nice boat on Friday.  He had rigged a small 
 light on the bottom of the boom which lit up the cockpit very nicely.
 Bill Hall
 Starfire
  
 On Wed, Aug 26, 2015 at 8:41 PM, jtsails via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 Earlier this year I changed out my old perko combo steaming/foredeck light 
 for a marinebeam combo. The marinebeam LED is awesome, the old light really 
 didn’t illuminate the foredeck at all (it was 39 years old) and the new 
 light is so bright it throws shadows. the only problem I have is the new 
 light is so well focused that it doesn’t light the back half of the boat at 
 all so now I’m trying to decide between spreader lights or a small LED 
 fixture to light the floor of the cockpit. I don’t won’t anything too 
 bright so I’m almost convinced that I will install a small dimmable LED 
 fixture in the cockpit to light the floor.
 James
 Delaney
 CC 38 Mk11
 Oriental, NC
  
 From: Dennis C. via CnC-List
 Sent: Wednesday, August 26, 2015 8:22 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: Dennis C.
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Spreader lights
  
 Ditto. With foredeck light I don't see need for spreader lights.
  
 Dennis C.
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
 On Aug 26, 2015, at 2:20 PM, Alan Bergen via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 I use a Forespar, combination bow light/deck light.  The bow light for 
 motoring at night, and the deck light taking the place of actual spreader 
 lights.  I they're not LED, but I rarely use either of them when not 
 motoring or powered up in a moorage.
  
 Alan Bergen
 35 Mk III Thirsty
 Rose City YC
 Portland, OR
  
 This has been bothering me all summer, there are wires hanging out of my 
 mast just under the spreaders (first set) it's obvious that someone has 
 removed the original spreader lights. I've been looking online at the 
 multitude of LED spreader lights available, and am wondering just how 
 useful they are, especially when they are so incredibly bright. What do 
 you have? Do you use them? Are they only used when at the slip? Would a 
 spotlight or two be more useful up there? I think I saw a red/white combo 
 light somewhere, would that be a better choice? 
 Thanks
 Brad
 1985 CC 33 MKII Pulse
 Sent, miraculously through cyberspace, 
 from my iPad!
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
 bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
 bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
 bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
  
 -- 
 William D. Hall, Ph.D.
 617 620 9078 (c)
 wh...@alum.mit.edu
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 

Re: Stus-List CC 26 Sail Plan Thoughts!

[Indigo via CnC-List]

I would agree with this school of thought - for very light air +/-3 knots. I 
frequently furl my 135 down to 100 otherwise I find that the slightest puff 
pushes the bow down when trying to inch my way upwind. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo CC 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

 On Aug 25, 2015, at 22:33, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Actually, there is a school of thought that a 110% would work better in very 
 light air (then a 155% or even a 135%). This is attributed to the fact that 
 in order to generate lift, the airflow over the sail has to be laminar and if 
 the sail is too long, the wind may not have enough energy to stay attached to 
 the sail for such a long distance.
  
 There was recently a long discussion on that topic at Sailboat Owners (Don 
 Gillette’s forum). Even some prizes were awarded.
  
 Marek
  
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John 
 Pennie via CnC-List
 Sent: August-25-15 20:00
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: John Pennie
 Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 26 Sail Plan Thoughts!
  
 Oh come on, if you don't exaggerate a bit you're just not a sailor.
  
 On the 110%, I've gone with a 120 for years when cruising.  It's just easier 
 on everyone with little loss of speed vs. the 135 in lighter air. Whatever we 
 loose in speed we make up for in quick tacking.  We're in NY harbor (Battery) 
 so short tacks and chop are the norm as is wind in the 15 range. Even racing 
 we're not shy about using the 120 in the cruising or double handed divisions. 
  Smaller and well trimmed trumps bigger and sloppy.
  
 Yes, people here have strong opinions and are a pita at times - until you 
 need those strong opinions from a knowledgeable group.
  
 Good luck
  
 John
 
 
 Sent from my iPad
 
 On Aug 25, 2015, at 6:34 PM, Sam Salter via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 ‎A few things :
 My genoa is an almost new laminate sail; The main is only 5 short seasons 
 old; I've got a folding propeller ; my bottom is smooth like a babies - I 
 take it out every winter!‎; I’m measuring speed with a Speed Puck (GPS)
  
 The 8kn readings were brief and fleeting (not more than the 10secs to 
 register in the instrument. The 7kn readings did register though, but they 
 were not sustained - like the 6+kn readings were. During this whole time I 
 was beating, which is why I pondered on the possibility of sustaining 7 or 8 
 on a beam reach.
  
 I fairly regularly exceed theoretical hull speed - If you're not, you're not 
 trying ! The 26 is not known to be a fast boat. I've done a lot to get her 
 faster. There are a lot of faster CC's on the water which is why the 26's 
 aren't raced.
 And yes the 27 is faster!
  
 Sorry I pissed so many people off - I'll keep quiet in future!
  
 sam :-)
 From: dwight veinot via CnC-List
 Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2015 2:44 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Reply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: dwight veinot
 Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 26 Sail Plan Thoughts!
  
 sorry Russ, I thought he said a beam reach must have missed the part about 
 puffs, still that's very fast for a 26 but if he can do it course be damned 
 as you say, then good for him
 
 Dwight Veinot
 CC 35 MKII, Alianna
 Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
 d.ve...@bellaliant.net
  
  
 On Tue, Aug 25, 2015 at 2:52 PM, Russ  Melody via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 Hi Dwight,
 
 Please reread Sam's message before getting out the pitchforks. He said 7 or 
 8, in the puffs. I would not characterize puffs as regular... 
 
 On a prairie lake I think his experience is quite achievable in hot summer 
 conditions when all you want to do is sail fast, course be damned.
 
 
 Cheers, Russ
 Sweet mk-1
 
 
 
 At 10:05 AM 25/08/2015, you wrote:
 
 what do you mean by 7kn to 8kn regularly? 
 
 If you mean 7 knots or 8 knots through the water or over the ground with a 
 CC 26 I would say you should be a race winner every time on corrected time; 
 that is really fast for a CC 26 even on a beam reach and I got a feeling you 
 would probably leave my 35 MKII struggling to stay close behind...before 
 everyone runs out to get a CC 26 are you sure about those numbers; I have 
 only ever seen a couple of CC 26's around here...I don't remember them being 
 quite that slippery, in fact my CC 27 MKIII always seemed to be much faster 
 on all points of sail
 
 Dwight Veinot
 CC 35 MKII, Alianna
 Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
 d.ve...@bellaliant.net
 
 
 On Mon, Aug 24, 2015 at 11:34 PM, Sam Salter via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 I know there’s a few 26 owners on here so thought I’d share my thoughts 
 on optimizing my sail plan.
 
 Jump in anyone, I’m open to any thoughts!
 
 Â
 
 Was out sailing today, only boat on the lake – I love that! So I thought 
 we’d play around with the saill plan.
 
 Wind was 8kn -12kn. (Estimate – I usually think if I ssee the occasional 
 whitecap it’s around 10kn)
 
 Â
 
 I have a 135% laminate genoa from Evolution 

Re: Stus-List CC 26 Sail Plan Thoughts!

[Indigo via CnC-List]

According to the formula 1.34 x square root of lwl the theoretical max speed of 
my 35mkIII with an lwl of 28ft is 7.06 knots.  I'd love to know how to get it 
going at higher speeds without surfing down the back of a wave!!

--
Jonathan
Indigo CC 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

 On Aug 25, 2015, at 08:55, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 8 knots in a CC 26 with no current on a reach with white sails in 12 knots 
 of wind?   Sounds more like a 30 one design.   Jerry. CC 27 V JJ.  
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
 On Aug 25, 2015, at 12:15 AM, David Donnelly via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 I will preface this by saying I consider myself a beginner hack sailor.
 
 I have often thought about trading my 135 for a 110. The 26 is tender for 
 sure and I get plenty of grief from my bride whenever we go past 20 degrees. 
 I often furl or reef the main when she is on board, and although performance 
 increases the more upright we get, pointing is severely reduced. My favorite 
 sailplan for over 12 kts is reefed main and full genoa. I do think my boat 
 feels right at 20 to 25 degrees hard on the wind. I have found a bubble in 
 the main to be faster when the wind picks up. Again, a hack playing and 
 watching the speed.
 
 I have a harken traveler and I do have a split and adjustable backstay. 
 
 I have never acheived the speeds you get. I saw over 7.3 kts once on the 
 display while reaching but as I keep a Navionics log on my tablet as well it 
 showed only 6.9 per the gps so I count that as my max speed. 
 
 When I get new sails I am getting a 110 and perhaps 2 reefs in my main 
 instead of the one I currently have. I think we're on the same page. 
 
 David Donnelly 
 CC 26 Mistress 
 
 Sent from my Samsung device
 
 
  Original message 
 From: Sam Salter via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 Date: 08-24-2015 8:34 PM (GMT-07:00) 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 Cc: Sam Salter sam.c.sal...@gmail.com 
 Subject: Stus-List CC 26 Sail Plan Thoughts! 
 
 I know there’s a few 26 owners on here so thought I’d share my thoughts on 
 optimizing my sail plan.
 
 Jump in anyone, I’m open to any thoughts!
 
  
 
 Was out sailing today, only boat on the lake – I love that! So I thought 
 we’d play around with the sail plan.
 
 Wind was 8kn -12kn. (Estimate – I usually think if I see the occasional 
 whitecap it’s around 10kn)
 
  
 
 I have a 135% laminate genoa from Evolution Sails in Toronto (2 seasons). A 
 Dacron main with 2 full and 2 partial battens from Leiche  McBride in 
 Vancouver (5 seasons).
 
  
 
 I have a flexofold prop; 4-1 outhaul; Garhauer genoa cars; Harken traveller; 
 Cunningham; Garhauer ridged vang; (no backstay adjuster)
 
  
 
 The CC 26 is a tender boat and we were doing about 5.5kn to 6kn beating to 
 windward at 20deg – 25deg heel. Flattening with the outhaul reduced heel a 
 bit. (speed measured with a Speed Puck)
 
 Furled the genoa to about 110%. Just brought the leech forward of the 
 spreaders so no interference.
 
 Boat stood up to 13deg to 16deg. Speed was between 5.8kn – 6.4kn. Went up to 
 7kn or 8kn in the puffs (theoretical hull speed is 6.2kn) No bubble in the 
 luff of the main.
 
 Obviously, the furled genoa wasn’t setting great and the starboard tack was 
 better than port tack. On a beam reach I think she’d do 7kn or 8kn regularly.
 
  
 
 So here’s my thoughts:
 
 I’m thinking of getting the genoa recut to a 110% or if that’s not practical 
 (...and I suspect it isn’t) order a new 110%.
 
 Eventually a new laminate main will be needed too!
 
 I’m well pleased with 6+kns at 10kn of wind and 16deg angle of heel. Very 
 little weather helm
 
 I’ve not tried it yet with the genoa at 110% in light wind. In heavy air the 
 main can still be reefed (...as could the 110%).
 
  
 
 OK guys, am I missing something?
 
 (I’m not looking for advice on where to buy used sails!)
 
  
 
 sam :-)
 
 CC 26  Liquorice
 
 Ghost Lake  Alberta
 
  
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List vang, CC 35 Mk II

[Indigo via CnC-List]

Oops!  1983 of course!! These fingers make too many typos on an iPhone keyboard!

--
Jonathan
Indigo CC 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

 On Aug 23, 2015, at 13:24, Russ  Melody via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 Jon,
 
 Are you sure your's is a mk III. It seems like a really really early build... 
 :)
 
 
 At 10:04 AM 23/08/2015, you wrote:
 
 I have a CC 35 ml III built in 1883. Are you sure yours is a MK II ?  May 
 make a difference on the advice you get back from the group.
 
 --
 Jonathan
 Indigo CC 35III
 SOUTHPORT CT
 
  On Aug 23, 2015, at 09:52, Richard H. Bernstein via CnC-List 
  cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
  I am attaching a (Block and line) vang to our 1984 CC35, but the housing 
  for the swing keel turning block is in the way at the mast base. I'm 
  wondering how others have dealt with this problem.
 
 
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List vang, CC 35 Mk II

[Indigo via CnC-List]

I have a CC 35 ml III built in 1883. Are you sure yours is a MK II ?  May make 
a difference on the advice you get back from the group. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo CC 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

 On Aug 23, 2015, at 09:52, Richard H. Bernstein via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 I am attaching a (Block and line) vang to our 1984 CC35, but the housing for 
 the swing keel turning block is in the way at the mast base. I'm wondering 
 how others have dealt with this problem.
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Was Wire Gauge, now Where can I get LED?

[Indigo via CnC-List]

Being totally ignorant on this topic, can someone tell me if there is an LED 
that fits the Aquasignal 25 stern light - and is it just a simple task of 
taking the old incandescent bulb out and replacing with the LED or something 
more complex? I need to replace the lens on my stern light - no replacement 
parts available so have to buy a complete unit and thought I might switch to 
LED at the same time. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo CC 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

 On Aug 20, 2015, at 16:24, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 I cannot say anything about your tricolour, but I have a white LED in the 
 combination red/green bow light on my boat. It certainly shows the right 
 colours through the lens. But this may (will?) depend on the lens and the LED.
  
 Marek
  
 From: Alex Giannelia via CnC-List
 Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2015 12:12 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: Alex Giannelia
 Subject: Stus-List Was Wire Gauge, now Where can I get LED?
  
 So,
  
 I recently installed a PERKO masthead tri-light and want to know if one can 
 insert a replacement LED trilight.  I understand that with the narrow 
 spectrum range of some LED’s, I might not be able to insert a replacement 
 white light LED but would need some kind of tri-light bulb.
  
 What have others done for their masthead tri-lights?
  
 Thanks,
  
 
 Alex Giannelia
 a...@airsensing.com
 (416) 203-9858
  
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Off topic-Newport boat show 2015

[Indigo via CnC-List]

I have stayed several times at the Best Western in West Greenwich but only in 
May.  The drive from there isn't bad over the Jamestown bridges - from memory 
+/- 35 minutes - but don't hold me to that

I presume there are parking lots for the boat show with shuttle buses. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo CC 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

 On Aug 19, 2015, at 21:47, Bruno Lachance via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Hi all, I'm throwing a line here and I'm looking for local knowledge of the 
 Newport area.
 
 Me and my girlfriend are looking to go at the Newport boat show and are 
 looking for accommodation. We are open to camping (tent) but is it a good 
 idea? We found the Melville pounds campground in Porthsmouth. Will the drive 
 be like really bad? Any comments please.
 
 airbnb has some closer options but nothing under 150$ a night for a room in 
 an apartment closer to the show... Higher price but maybe it's the way to go 
 to enjoy our stay?
 
 Thanks for your help local cncciers
 
 Bruno Lachance
 87 cc 33 mkII
 Bécassine
 new Richmond, Qc
 
 Envoyé de mon iPad
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Crew Assignments - 35mkIII

[Indigo via CnC-List]

Joel Yes I am dip pole gybing. My pole does not have the bridles necessary for 
end to end and the ends are quite different with one end set up for the ring on 
the mast and the other with jaws that automatically close when the plate inside 
is pushed down by the guy. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo CC 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

 On Aug 16, 2015, at 08:29, Joel Aronson via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 Jonathan
 
 Are you dip pole gybing?
 
 Joel
 
 On Sunday, August 16, 2015, Indigo via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 Josh
 I agree practice is key. Fortunately I have a pretty steady group who crew 
 regularly most of whom have plenty of bug boat cruising experience but very 
 limited to none spinnaker handling. I am hoping that by giving each a 
 specific list of jobs to focus on there will be less confusion and less 
 chance of mistakes. 
 
 --
 Jonathan
 Indigo CC 35III
 SOUTHPORT CT
 
 On Aug 15, 2015, at 21:53, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Having been crew for over 10 years, it is my opinion that pigeon holing 
 positions is great in theory if you can get the same crew week after week.  
 Otherwise you need crew that is flexible and can adapt quickly.  For 
 example, foredeckers make the best cockpit and midships crew  since they 
 can anticipate the needs of the foredeck.
 
 More helpful than a jobs list is practice.  Our crew would arrange 
 practice on Tuesday night in preps for the Wednesday night race.  Focus on 
 tacks and spin jibes... Fast.  Then spin launch and take down... Fast.  
 You'll have time to talk and figure out what people need and where.
 
 Josh Muckley
 S/V Sea Hawk
 1989 CC 37+
 Solomons, MD
 
 I have a fairly green crew - and I put myself in that category when it 
 comes to spinnaker handling - and we are trying to move more permanently 
 into the beer can spinnaker division - using a symmetrical spinnaker.
 
 I am looking for help in defining specific jobs / task responsibilities to 
 my crew so at least to start, they get to know set of jobs and do them well
 
 I think I have the standard set up for 35mk iii s
 
 Roller furled jib
 Spin halyard to base of mast and winch on cabin top just aft of mast on 
 port side
 I use guys and sheets - no twings
 Pole topping lift brought aft to clutch on starboard cabin top
 Pole down haul brought aft to clam clear on starboard side of cockpit coming
 Self tailing primaries aft with non-self tailing secondaries forward
 
 I am not short of crew, but ideally would like to have clear assignments 
 for six or seven individuals - though we often have a couple extra 
 available.
 
 I would like to prepare (plagiarize if someone has this already!!) a table 
 with positions in the left column and then a series of columns for 
 upwind hoist trim gybe douse etc. and then each cell would define 
 the job or jobs assigned to each position during that maneuver.
 
 While I am sure some of this is generic, I feel that the boat layout 
 requires the assignments to be tailored so that crew don't get in each 
 other's way
 
 Anybody got anything already prepared that I could use as a starting point?
 
 As always - grateful in advance for the individual and collective wisdom of 
 this group.
 
 
 --
 Jonathan
 Indigo CC 35III
 SOUTHPORT CT
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
 bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
 bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
 -- 
 Joel 
 301 541 8551
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Crew Assignments - 35mkIII

[Indigo via CnC-List]

Josh
I agree practice is key. Fortunately I have a pretty steady group who crew 
regularly most of whom have plenty of bug boat cruising experience but very 
limited to none spinnaker handling. I am hoping that by giving each a specific 
list of jobs to focus on there will be less confusion and less chance of 
mistakes. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo CC 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

 On Aug 15, 2015, at 21:53, Josh Muckley via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 Having been crew for over 10 years, it is my opinion that pigeon holing 
 positions is great in theory if you can get the same crew week after week.  
 Otherwise you need crew that is flexible and can adapt quickly.  For example, 
 foredeckers make the best cockpit and midships crew  since they can 
 anticipate the needs of the foredeck.
 
 More helpful than a jobs list is practice.  Our crew would arrange practice 
 on Tuesday night in preps for the Wednesday night race.  Focus on tacks and 
 spin jibes... Fast.  Then spin launch and take down... Fast.  You'll have 
 time to talk and figure out what people need and where.
 
 Josh Muckley
 S/V Sea Hawk
 1989 CC 37+
 Solomons, MD
 
 I have a fairly green crew - and I put myself in that category when it comes 
 to spinnaker handling - and we are trying to move more permanently into the 
 beer can spinnaker division - using a symmetrical spinnaker.
 
 I am looking for help in defining specific jobs / task responsibilities to my 
 crew so at least to start, they get to know set of jobs and do them well
 
 I think I have the standard set up for 35mk iii s
 
 Roller furled jib
 Spin halyard to base of mast and winch on cabin top just aft of mast on port 
 side
 I use guys and sheets - no twings
 Pole topping lift brought aft to clutch on starboard cabin top
 Pole down haul brought aft to clam clear on starboard side of cockpit coming
 Self tailing primaries aft with non-self tailing secondaries forward
 
 I am not short of crew, but ideally would like to have clear assignments for 
 six or seven individuals - though we often have a couple extra available.
 
 I would like to prepare (plagiarize if someone has this already!!) a table 
 with positions in the left column and then a series of columns for upwind 
 hoist trim gybe douse etc. and then each cell would define the job or 
 jobs assigned to each position during that maneuver.
 
 While I am sure some of this is generic, I feel that the boat layout requires 
 the assignments to be tailored so that crew don't get in each other's way
 
 Anybody got anything already prepared that I could use as a starting point?
 
 As always - grateful in advance for the individual and collective wisdom of 
 this group.
 
 
 --
 Jonathan
 Indigo CC 35III
 SOUTHPORT CT
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Crew Assignments - 35mkIII

[Indigo via CnC-List]

All this info is very helpful. Thank you all for contributing. I still think a 
table will clarify things for everyone - and then allow me to rotate positions 
to get everyone familiar with the entire process. 

I have one further question re spinnaker trim. My spin sheets go to snatch 
block on the toe rail at the transom. Is there a recommended / best way on the 
35III specifically to lead the sheet to the trimmer who is standing by the 
shrouds. Should I forget the secondaries (forward of primaries) and use one of 
the small winches on the same side as the snatch block , or cross the cockpit 
to a small winch on the same side as the trimmer. 

Doesn't seem to make sense to use the secondaries for the sheets - but use them 
only for the guys - am I correct there ?

--
Jonathan
Indigo CC 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

 On Aug 16, 2015, at 11:39, Joel Aronson via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 Jonathan,
 I'm usually driving, and Jake and others can correct me as needed.
 
 I added a cam cleat on the mast for the halyard without the nice gizmo Dennis 
 has.  The mast man hoists and cleats the halyard there.  Once everything is 
 under control, the pit man pulls the halyard tight so he can release the 
 halyard on the douse.
 
 The set is pretty standard.  If your track goes close to the deck your mast 
 man can attach it the pole when you get near the windward mark.  Guy in the 
 jaws.  On the final approach,bowman  attaches topping lift.  Mast man raises 
 inboard end.  Pit raises outboard end.  Pit preefeeds guy and hands it off to 
 trimmer.  After the mark, bear off, mastmand hoists with help from bow.  
 Trimmer trims, someone furls jib.
 
 Gybe:  Mastman trips pole, raises inboard end; pit drops outboard end.  Bow 
 centers pole, attaches new guy, yells MADE, Pit raises pole, mast drops 
 inboard end while guy trimmer trims.  (sounds simple!)
 
 Douse - leeward, Unfurl jib, open hatch.  pit drops pole slightly if needed, 
 mast trips pole to release guy.  Mast and bow grab chute, yell READY.  Guy is 
 released, pit drops halyard without letting chute hit the water.
 mast and pit get pole on deck, make sure you are clear to tack.
 
 Hope this helps.
 
 Joel
 
 On Sunday, August 16, 2015, Indigo via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 Joel Yes I am dip pole gybing. My pole does not have the bridles necessary 
 for end to end and the ends are quite different with one end set up for the 
 ring on the mast and the other with jaws that automatically close when the 
 plate inside is pushed down by the guy. 
 
 --
 Jonathan
 Indigo CC 35III
 SOUTHPORT CT
 
 On Aug 16, 2015, at 08:29, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Jonathan
 
 Are you dip pole gybing?
 
 Joel
 
 On Sunday, August 16, 2015, Indigo via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 Josh
 I agree practice is key. Fortunately I have a pretty steady group who crew 
 regularly most of whom have plenty of bug boat cruising experience but 
 very limited to none spinnaker handling. I am hoping that by giving each a 
 specific list of jobs to focus on there will be less confusion and less 
 chance of mistakes. 
 
 --
 Jonathan
 Indigo CC 35III
 SOUTHPORT CT
 
 On Aug 15, 2015, at 21:53, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Having been crew for over 10 years, it is my opinion that pigeon holing 
 positions is great in theory if you can get the same crew week after 
 week.  Otherwise you need crew that is flexible and can adapt quickly.  
 For example, foredeckers make the best cockpit and midships crew  since 
 they can anticipate the needs of the foredeck.
 
 More helpful than a jobs list is practice.  Our crew would arrange 
 practice on Tuesday night in preps for the Wednesday night race.  Focus 
 on tacks and spin jibes... Fast.  Then spin launch and take down... Fast. 
  You'll have time to talk and figure out what people need and where.
 
 Josh Muckley
 S/V Sea Hawk
 1989 CC 37+
 Solomons, MD
 
 I have a fairly green crew - and I put myself in that category when it 
 comes to spinnaker handling - and we are trying to move more permanently 
 into the beer can spinnaker division - using a symmetrical spinnaker.
 
 I am looking for help in defining specific jobs / task responsibilities 
 to my crew so at least to start, they get to know set of jobs and do them 
 well
 
 I think I have the standard set up for 35mk iii s
 
 Roller furled jib
 Spin halyard to base of mast and winch on cabin top just aft of mast on 
 port side
 I use guys and sheets - no twings
 Pole topping lift brought aft to clutch on starboard cabin top
 Pole down haul brought aft to clam clear on starboard side of cockpit 
 coming
 Self tailing primaries aft with non-self tailing secondaries forward
 
 I am not short of crew, but ideally would like to have clear assignments 
 for six or seven individuals - though we often have a couple extra 
 available.
 
 I would like to prepare (plagiarize if someone has this already

Stus-List Crew Assignments - 35mkIII

[Indigo via CnC-List]

I have a fairly green crew - and I put myself in that category when it comes to 
spinnaker handling - and we are trying to move more permanently into the beer 
can spinnaker division - using a symmetrical spinnaker.  

I am looking for help in defining specific jobs / task responsibilities to my 
crew so at least to start, they get to know set of jobs and do them well

I think I have the standard set up for 35mk iii s 

Roller furled jib
Spin halyard to base of mast and winch on cabin top just aft of mast on port 
side
I use guys and sheets - no twings
Pole topping lift brought aft to clutch on starboard cabin top 
Pole down haul brought aft to clam clear on starboard side of cockpit coming
Self tailing primaries aft with non-self tailing secondaries forward

I am not short of crew, but ideally would like to have clear assignments for 
six or seven individuals - though we often have a couple extra available. 

I would like to prepare (plagiarize if someone has this already!!) a table with 
positions in the left column and then a series of columns for upwind 
hoist trim gybe douse etc. and then each cell would define the job or 
jobs assigned to each position during that maneuver.  

While I am sure some of this is generic, I feel that the boat layout requires 
the assignments to be tailored so that crew don't get in each other's way

Anybody got anything already prepared that I could use as a starting point?

As always - grateful in advance for the individual and collective wisdom of 
this group. 


--
Jonathan
Indigo CC 35III
SOUTHPORT CT
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Off Topic- Automated Race Signals

[Indigo via CnC-List]

We use the regatta pro system for sound signals -  it is almost idiot proof 
if the operators don't mess with the settings!

We recently modified the set up so that instead of the electric output going to 
the supplied air pump (and horns) it now goes directly to power horns in the 
committee boat.  I dare say an electronics engineer could use the electric 
output signals from the regatta pro to drive lights - but it would not be very 
easy. Maybe it's commercially available. 

I am not sure if this is permissible on lakes, but we on Long Island Sound have 
been placing permanent (removed in the winter) race marks in our racing area. 
Each year they are re-placed in exactly the same location.  Over many many 
years, the locations have been determined based on common winds. For sure, the 
windward mark is not always exactly upwind of the chosen starting pin, but 
usually close enough to satisfy our most competitive sailors.  

Use of fixed marks, and the regatta pro allows us to run races with two on the 
committee boat (though we usually have three) and eliminates need for a mark 
boat. 

As other Clubs, we also require those that race to do time on the Committee 
boat - though we do not compensate with a race score.  We also rely heavily on 
non-racing members of the Club to volunteer on RC duty.  It's not generally an 
issue - we make those individuals responsible for finding their own 
replacements if they cannot perform their duties on a given date. 

Hope this helps with some ideas. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo CC 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

 On Aug 9, 2015, at 22:37, David Donnelly via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 I know this is sailing related but it is not CC related. We have a fair 
 number of avid racers on the list and I was hoping for some useful leads.
  
 A short background.
  
 I started sailing essentially 3 years ago when we bought our CC 26. Although 
 I have only raced in the “fun races” I have been volunteering on the race 
 committee since joining the club. One problem we have always had is lack of 
 other volunteers to help run good races, often there would be only 2 of us. 
 One person usually ran the start countdowns and recorded times and I assisted 
 on line calls and did all the mark setting and adjusting for changes in wind 
 direction. Being on a lake wind shifts are a regular part of the day and 
 while not an excessive amount there is almost always adjusting of the marks. 
 2 people can manage the duties as long as they know what they are doing, 
 committee boat and mark boat. The other individual is retiring from the 
 committee boat duties.
  
 I am only talking keelboat PHRF racing, not dingy racing. Series racing we 
 have 6-8 boats usually and fun races we have 20ish.
  
 I have been asked to be fleet captain next year. Having reservations 
 regarding the ability to get volunteers as I have 3 seasons of experience in 
 this regard I am trying to think of ways to “automate” the start sequence so 
 that we can assign other club members to committee boat duty throughout the 
 season. My thought process being if they are intimidated by racing rules, 
 having a simple system pushing a button and watching the line is easier to 
 train and get people acclimated. It also provides consistency to the boats 
 racing that no one “forgets” the horn because they were talking to someone 
 else aboard.
  
 I realize this may not be official according to the rules but we are not 
 running the Americas Cup. Having spent some time researching via google there 
 are some commercial alternatives available, only a few I found in North 
 America. I am looking for anyone’s experience with these devices and perhaps 
 problems or ones to avoid. My short list of wants:
  
 1.  Ability to do a 5,4,1,0 start.
 2.  Easy to use / reset. Push button with its own clock
 3.  Connected to lights instead of using flags so all human intervention 
 is avoided beyond the line observations and recording of time. I think racers 
 on our lake would accept this as long as they are visible.
 4.  Portable, able to be taken ashore and used on different boats.
 5.  12V power
 6.  Reasonable cost
  
 The lights seem to be a non-standard option on what I found, at least on this 
 continent, or only on homemade systems.
  
 Any leads or links appreciated.
  
 Regards
 David Donnelly
 CC 26 Mistress
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List filters

[Indigo via CnC-List]

I usually change both Racir and Yanmar fuel filters annually. The one year I 
did not, my engine stopped a few miles before Watch Hill Passage (for those 
that are unfamiliar with this piece of water it's NOT somewhere you want engine 
problems. I am back to changing both every year - even though the Yanmar filter 
always looks brand new!!

--
Jonathan
Indigo CC 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

 On Aug 4, 2015, at 15:16, Andrew Burton via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 Often the additives will clean the gunk off the sides of the tank. For that 
 reason I never use any diesel additives.
 
 Andy
 CC 40
 Peregrine
 
 Andrew Burton
 61 W Narragansett
 Newport, RI 
 USA02840
 
 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
 +401 965-5260
 
 On Aug 4, 2015, at 15:05, Bev Parslow via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 Last year after we changed both fuel filters and then cleaned out the tank 
 on the 29-2. On the weekend it appears that the filters need to be changed 
 again. Is this normal? We have been putting in the usual additives. What is 
 working with your fuel systems?
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Internet access on charter boat

[Indigo via CnC-List]

Some overseas friends of ours who are visiting just bought a SIM card for their 
IPhone that gives them a U.S. Telephone number, unlimited calls and data access 
(not sure if the limit on data) for a specified period. They took 30 days. It's 
possible that you can buy a similar plan in Berlize. You might want to check 
with your U.S. Cellphone company if your phone needs to be unlocked before you 
go overseas. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo CC 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

 On Jul 12, 2015, at 11:42, David Knecht via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 Hi- We are planning a January charter with friends in Belize and have never 
 done this before.  My wife is an author and might need Internet access while 
 we are on the boat, and I am sure there will be times we are out of any local 
 network.  What are the options for internet access in remote areas?  Thanks- 
 Dave
 
 Aries
 1990 CC 34+
 New London, CT
 
 
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Main sail slides

[Indigo via CnC-List]

My sail-maintenance guy taught me a great trick with regard to the main (and 
Genoa track). He gave me a  slide for the track which I tie to the main halyard 
and to a recovery line and then wrap with lint free cloth - tied in place. I 
then soak the lint free cloth with Mclube and run it up and down the track. 
Cleans and lubes the track. My main drops by itself - and can be jumped at the 
mast very easily!!

--
Jonathan
Indigo CC 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

 On Jul 1, 2015, at 17:37, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 That makes a big difference.  Each year my kids go up the mast, clean out 
 critters from the winter, and dry lube the track.
 What a difference!
 The lube also seems to discourage critters (mostly spiders) from building in 
 the track.
 Ron
 Wild Cheri
 CC 30-1
 STL
 
 
 From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 Cc: Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com 
 Sent: Tuesday, June 23, 2015 3:30 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Main sail slides
 
 McLube on the slides on occasion makes a big difference. I don't need a wench 
 but the admiral helps out!
 Joel
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Marion Bermuda race

[Indigo via CnC-List]

Per the race results on marionbermuda.com Dave was 4th in Class - 10th in 
Division. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo CC 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

 On Jun 23, 2015, at 23:29, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 If I'm reading the race tracker correctly, it looks like Dave has a first in 
 Class   C!
  
 Richard
 1985 CC ; Ohio River; mile 596
 Richard N. Bush 
 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
 Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
 502-584-7255
  
  
 -Original Message-
 From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 To: cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com
 Sent: Wed, Jun 17, 2015 1:43 pm
 Subject: Stus-List Marion Bermuda race
 
 Our own David Risch is doing the race in his CC 40, Corsair.  Start is in 
 less than 2 days!
 
 Track the fleet at  http://yb.tl/mb2015. 
 
 Good luck David! 
 -- 
 Joel 
 301 541 8551
 ___
 
 Email
 address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including
 unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page
 at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List 2015 Sailstice umbrella race

[Indigo via CnC-List]

What a blast!!  Glad some folks remember not to take sailboat racing too 
seriously. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo CC 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

 On Jun 24, 2015, at 15:55, Wally Bryant via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 So... For the marina's annual Sailsticecelebration we had a 'Downwind 
 Umbrella Race,' where you can sail using anything but an actual sail.  I made 
 a joke (who, me?) about sewing my own sail out of women's underwear.  Women 
 started giving me underwear, so I was committed.
 
 It took me three days, sitting in my bunk watching movies, surrounded by 
 piles of women's lingerie, sewing and hot gluing.
 http://www.wbryant.com/temp/2015sailstice/sail.jpg
 
 Here's a shot of the start, although the sail doesn't look as good from the 
 back.
 http://www.wbryant.com/temp/2015sailstice/start1.jpg
 
 Here's a low quality front shot: 
 http://www.wbryant.com/temp/2015sailstice/start2.jpg
 It worked really well, and you can almost see how the legs of the two 
 bloomers fly out in front.  That helped to depower the rig, because it was 
 blowing about 10-15 knots in the afternoon thermal push, and everybody was 
 out of control.
 
 Unfortunately my helmswoman, while cute and a lot of fun, had never been in a 
 kayak or held a paddle before, and didn't understand the concept of downwind, 
 or that her job was to steer the boat. As a consequence, when we were T-Boned 
 from port and pushed off course, she paddled on the wrong side and turned us 
 broadside to the breeze.  That rig cannot handle a reach.  So I won a prize 
 for 'most spectacular wipe out' as well as 'most creative entry.'
 
 There was one of those RC drones in the air taking video, and I've seen that. 
  I've also seen some really good high quality pictures including a 5 shot 
 rapid series of the actual wipe-out.  However the owners of those pics aren't 
 giving them away yet, as they're being sent to Latitude38 and 
 summersailstice.com and who knows where else.
 
 I was pretty bummed out about the wipe-out so early in the race, because I 
 could tell that that rig could sail.  However, I've been told that we're 
 going to do it again later this summer, just for fun.
 
 Wal
 
 
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Interior Teak Finish

[Indigo via CnC-List]

I have been using Old English furniture oil for about three years. Seems to do 
the job for me with no downside noticed yet. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo CC 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

 On Jun 24, 2015, at 13:09, Joel Aronson via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 I bought a quart can of Watco Teak Oil at Home Depot.  After last summer, the 
 teak looked beat up and uneven.  Even the admiral was impressed with how good 
 the teak look after I oiled it, and the can will last another 10 years or 
 more.
 
 Joel
 35/3
 Annapolis
 
 On Wed, Jun 24, 2015 at 1:05 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 I use lemon pledge to the keep the wood inside looking good. I'm grateful 
 for the recipe though because I've been wanting to line the quarter berth 
 with mahogany battens. 
 
 Steve
 Suhana, CC 32
 Toronto
 
 
 On Wed, Jun 24, 2015 at 12:45 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 Agreed, 
 
 That's why I try and prioritize the stuff by must do vs nice to have.  
 I do my best to get the must do well and fairly expeditiously, the rest 
 is somewhat maniana because it's lower on the priority list than racing / 
 cruising with the family.. 
 
 That's in contrast with 4 out of 6 of my dock neighbors that seem to place 
 constantly working on the boat as the top priority.  
 
 To each his own, I'd rather be sailing (Like the 70's bumper sticker used 
 to say :-)  )   At least my dock looks nice, with clean and well maintained 
 boats. 
 
 BTW, I just use the West Premium Gold teak oil once or twice a year in my 
 cabin and the boat looks great, I get compliments all the time.
 
 -Francois Rivard
 1990 34+ Take Five
 Lake Lanier, GA  
 
 
 - The most important thing is to get the job done well and go sailing.
 
 - Wal
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
 bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
 
 -- 
 Joel 
 301 541 8551
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List depth finder display

[Indigo via CnC-List]

If it's a Datamarine unit, I believe there is a company called DMI that repairs 
replaces old Datamarine units. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo CC 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

 On Jun 14, 2015, at 16:08, McElwreath, Daniel via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 The readout on my cockpit depth display on 1980 cnc 32 is barely readable in 
 the daylight. I have been unable to find a source for simply replacing the 
 displau unit.  Can that be done? or do I have to buy a complete set, with 
 transducer, etc.  Thanks for any guidance. Dan Mc on Tively II at City Island
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Help? on the scrounge!!

[Indigo via CnC-List]

I have just discovered that my roller-fuller jib is delaminated beyond repair 
and is separating from the luff tape - also beyond economical repair. 

My boat budget is extremely tight this year - so I wondered if anyone might 
have a jib in the 135 - 150 range that would fit my 35Mk III and which is 
sitting gathering dust.  If in the north east I could possibly pick it up or 
otherwise pay shipping etc. I do race - sort of - generally with a pick up crew 
- so sail shape  is definitely not critical!!

--
Jonathan
Indigo CC 35III
SOUTHPORT CT
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Lift mufflers

[Indigo via CnC-List]

I replaced my muffler several years ago. The exact replacement was not listed 
in Vernalift's catalog - but they custom built one for me so I did not need to 
changes hoses etc. Cost no more than the closest stock version. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo CC 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

 On May 31, 2015, at 21:02, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Ed,
  
 I put in a Vernalift muffler a number of years ago.  I think it was a 1.5” 
 inlet and 2” outlet.  It’s small, but does the job beautifully.  I have a 
 reducer at the transom to take the 2” hose down to match the 1 ½” outlet in 
 the transom.  My 3GM30F does just fine with it.  There are a lot of 
 configurations to choose from.
  
 http://www.centekindustries.com/vernaliftfig2.html
  
 Jake
  
 Jake Brodersen
 “Midnight Mistress”
 CC 35 Mk-III
 Hampton VA
  
  
  
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edward 
 Levert via CnC-List
 Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2015 8:50 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: Edward Levert
 Subject: Stus-List Lift mufflers
  
  
 In the removal of the mixing elbow on a Yanmar 3gm 30F to clear a complete 
 blockage, inspection of the lift muffler dictates its replacement. Any brand 
 recommendations and dealers? Exhaust hose is 1 5/8ths. The Vernalift muffler 
 for that size hose is specked for 10 hp diesel. 
  
 
 
 Ed
 Briar Patch
 CC 34 # 336
 New Orleans, la 
  
  
 
 ___
  
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
  
  
  
  
  
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Pegathy's New England Voyage

[Indigo via CnC-List]

I have cruised Buzzards Bay, the Islands and Narraganset fairly extensively 
over the years. Great suggestions from Damian. I would add my favorites...

Quissett : beautiful little harbor north east of Woods Hole. Long walk or 
trolley bus to Woods Hole 

Hadley Harbor: opposite Woods Hole - no landing on islands but really peaceful 
place to anchor or pick up free moorings if available

Menemsha: call early in the morning to make a mooring reservation. Very limited 
but the do allow up to three maybe four boats on each of the moorings inside. 

Coecles Harbor (east side of Shelter Island). Channel narrow and not a lot of 
depth - go in / out on a rising tide!! But once in, several options. I 
generally anchor on the left side going in. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo CC 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

 On May 22, 2015, at 06:49, Damian Greene via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 Dan,
  
 I used to be based in Westbrook CT, so here are my recommendations for 
 Eastern Long Island Sound. This is based on several summer cruises on our CC 
 34 with wife and two younger teenagers.
  
 Westbrook - slip at Brewer's. Huge full-service yard. Pool, showers, 
 restaurant (expensive). Gas BBQ grills and picnic tables at the head of each 
 dock. There is a picnic area at the channel entrance with gas grills, picnic 
 tables, and a clubhouse with kitchen facilities and a TV room. Great spot to 
 hang out in the evening and watch the boat traffic. That was our regular 
 hangout.
  
 Mystic - slip at Brewer's. On the right, just before the railroad bridge. 
 Easy dinghy ride to the town dock. Decent swimming pool. Be careful to stay 
 in the channel, and do NOT try to cut left of the rockpile at the entrance to 
 Noank (you'll see what I mean - there's a confusing dogleg). Get ice-cream at 
 the store by the lifting bridge. Of course the Seaport Museum.
  
 In general, any Brewer's yard along LIS is a good stopover.
  
 Shelter Island - good moorings at Piccozzi's Dering Harbor Marina. Decent 
 showers. Nice small town with decent bars and restaurants. Explore the island 
 by bike - rentals at Piccozzi's garage. Fun trip in through Plum Gut.
  
 Newport - we would stay at Dutch Harbor. Moorings for rent, launch service, 
 showers and laundry. Walk to foodstore and restaurants. Harbor shuttle across 
 to Newport. More peaceful than craziness of Newport.
  
 Martha's Vineyard - we were disappointed with available moorings. The best we 
 found were in Vineyard Haven. Services not great, and serious wakes from 
 car-ferries. Still, the Vineyard is a must-see. Rent a Jeep. Go to the Jaws 
 locations.
  
 Block Island - Great Salt Pond. Rather than scramble for town moorings, we 
 would book a slip at Champlin's Marina. In reality, you're likely rafted, 
 and it gets very congested with powerboats at weekends. Still, it is a fun 
 experience. Decent pool, bars, takeout pizza, cinema (for kids), all without 
 leaving the marina. And then of course there's Block to explore! Rent bikes. 
 Great beaches.
  
 Cuttyhunk is our favorite destination. If you get there on time, there are 
 town moorings in the inner harbor. Otherwise, plenty of moorings available 
 outside, but with more wave action. Beautiful island. No cars, one small 
 restaurant, boat goes around each evening selling fresh shellfish and 
 lobsters. Great beaches (at harbor entrance, and over the bar at the far 
 side). Channel can be tricky, so be careful. Last time we were there, we 
 watched another sailboat solidly aground on a falling tide. No fun.
  
 Cape Cod Canal is a beautiful ride. Make sure to time your transits with the 
 tides. Some serious wave action on the southern entrance - you'll be surfing 
 in, then it gets flat.
  
 Sandwich Marina is a decent stop at the northern exit from the CCC. showers, 
 food-store nearby, decent restaurants.
  
 Feel free to discuss more offline. damian.gre...@yahoo.com
  
  
 Damian Greene
 CC 34 GHOST
 Bass Harbor, Maine
 
  
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Flag Etiquette - Past Commodore's Flag

[Indigo via CnC-List]

Could anyone please clarify whether it is proper etiquette for a 
past-Commodore's flag to be flown day and night on a boat that is moored 
permanently in the waters of a Club for which the owner of the boat was NOT 
Commodore.  Etiquette rules that I can find are explicit on current Flag 
officers flags - but I can't find and references to past Commodore's flags  

--
Jonathan
Indigo CC 35III
SOUTHPORT CT
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Flag Etiquette - Past Commodore's Flag

[Indigo via CnC-List]

Thanks for your help. It would seem to make sense to consider the Past 
Commodores (assuming they completed full term) in the same light as Commodores 
in which case the flags (or are they burgees) should only be flown in other 
clubs waters when the officer is on official Club business (which I would 
include leading / participating in a rendezvous / Club Cruise). Otherwise they 
should revert to flying the standard Club burgee 

--
Jonathan
Indigo CC 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

 On May 18, 2015, at 13:24, Russ  Melody via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 Hi Jonathan,
 
 In a conversation where I mentioned Past Commodore, I was told by an 
 ex-Naval Officer that once a Commodore always a Commodore. With that in mind, 
 I believe the Past Commodore's burgee should be flown in the same manner as 
 the Commodore's burgee.
 
 At our Club an executive member does not qualifies as Commodore unless he 
 completes the full term. 
 
 So, that burgee is flown improperly on both counts, IMHO.
 
 Cheers, Russ  P.C.
  Sweet, 35 mk-1
 Nanaimo Yacht Club
 
 
 At 10:08 AM 18/05/2015, you wrote:
 Could anyone please clarify whether it is proper etiquette for a 
 past-Commodore's flag to be flown day and night on a boat that is moored 
 permanently in the waters of a Club for which the owner of the boat was NOT 
 Commodore.  Etiquette rules that I can find are explicit on current Flag 
 officers flags - but I can't find and references to past Commodore's flags  
 
 --
 Jonathan
 Indigo CC 35III
 SOUTHPORT CT
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Towing, Insurance, etc.

[Indigo via CnC-List]

Only experienced Seatow service once. Fellow boater needed help starting his 
engine (drained battery). Seatow can out very quickly and operator was 
extremely helpful, pleasant etc. We noticed a couple of 10 gal diesel jerrycans 
on the Seatow vessel. Asked the cost of a fuel drop. Did not really need the 
fuel, and expected a ridiculously gouging price. In reality price per gal was 
less than what my Club was charging members!!   Took the 10 gal. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo CC 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

 On May 18, 2015, at 14:38, PME via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Hi,
 
 Here is my understanding of the difference between SeaTow and TowBoatUS.   
 SeaTow operators derive their income from selling memberships and do not 
 receive extra income from towing a SeaTow member.   TowBoatUS operators do 
 not receive any income from membership, the only receive a contracted amount 
 from the company based on towing a member.   Of course, both make good money 
 towing non-members.   
 
 Now I don’t know if it is true, but I have heard that the difference has lead 
 to longer waiting times for SeaTow members.
 
 
 -
 Paul E.
 1981 CC Landfall 38
 S/V Johanna Rose
 Carrabelle, FL
 
 
 
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List IMAP vs. POP (was: Email List or Forum)

[Indigo via CnC-List]

Marek
Are you sure about this?  I have no problem reading emails when my phone is in 
airline mode. Of course it is not getting new emails but that is the same with 
Pop3


--
Jonathan
Indigo CC 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

 On Mar 15, 2015, at 22:28, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 If you switch to IMAP (from POP3) you lose the ability to read off-line - for 
 some this might be useful.
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Jacklines on an LF 38

[Indigo via CnC-List]

I know the logic behind leading the jack lines inside the shrouds, (close to 
the centerline etc), but on the 35-5 I find the easiest way forward is to go 
outside the shrouds on the windward side. Most of my tethers are single point 
attachment, so I don't want crew using them to unclip at any time once out of 
the cockpit. Short of buying new tethers, should I be doing something different

--
Jonathan
Indigo CC 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

 On Mar 16, 2015, at 15:01, Daniel Sheer via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 inside the shrouds

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Email List or Forum

[Indigo via CnC-List]

Close. Does not have to be all Apple products to sync with IMAP. I have Outlook 
on my home PC, and on my work Laptop. I have an iPhone and an IPad mini.  All 
retrieve emails from the server, but if I delete an email on one device, it 
will be deleted on all the others. Likewise I can see sent messages that were 
sent from one device, on all others. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo CC 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

 On Mar 15, 2015, at 21:44, Rick Brass via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 What I understand you to be saying, though, is that with all Apple devices, 
 and with all set up on an IMAP account, you can look at the messages you have 
 on any of the devices. And when you delete a message after looking at it on 
 the IPad, you will not see it again on the phone, MacBook, etc.?
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List List etiquette

[Indigo via CnC-List]

Guilty as charged!  Unless someone can advise me otherwise, there is no setting 
on the IPhone to remove the email history automatically when replying to a 
message. I would gladly use such a setting for CC list emails.  Deleting the 
history, while not too difficult, takes an extra couple of steps that I 
frequently forget to do. Those steps also unfortunately delete my signature 
which contains the list-requested boat class / location etc. 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Email List or Forum

[Indigo via CnC-List]

I am no expert - but believe you have to set up your email account as an IMAP 
account rather than POP3. With IMAP, the various mail clients are synchronized 
so that if you delete an email on one device, it is deleted from all. (I have 4 
devices from which I can read / send emails - so it was critical for me to have 
this feature). I don't use gmail - I have my own domain with godaddy and it was 
not difficult to set the account as IMAP - not sure if gmail can be so easily 
configured

--
Jonathan
Indigo CC 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

 On Mar 14, 2015, at 21:51, jtsails via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 I haven’t mastered how to get gmail to delete posts from my account when I 
 delete them on the computer, but I’m sure there is a setting somewhere!

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com