Re: [RBW] Re: Who wants a Hunqadiscer?

2018-02-04 Thread Joe Bernard
Bill, have you ever known Grant to design or sell a bike thing he's not 
interested in? Of course I don't expect him to do a disc Riv, it's just a 
request with the thinking that maybe youngsters at RBW could spearhead it. It'd 
be cool if it happened, but I'll keep buying frames and parts from them 
regardless. I like Riv stuff!

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Re: [RBW] Re: Who wants a Hunqadiscer?

2018-02-04 Thread Patrick Moore
I won't quarrel with Rivendell if it never makes a disc brake bike, but as
to disc brake technology itself -- and I speak as a bitter, aging
disparager of so much of modernity* -- I have to agree with Jeffrey. Disc
brakes do work well, and solve a number of problems that other types of
brakes bring with them.

Me, I use the venerable (and by now, it *is* venerable) BB7 road model; and
despite disparaging reports, it is a perfectly adequate brake, even with
160 mm rotors f and r. I say "adequate" -- it's not more powerful than the
best cantis or V brakes or calipers; but it works as well or better than
most of these, at least IME. Hydraulics apparently are better still, but
I've not use them. And discs of any sort allow you to run very light rims
in dirt without fear of grinding them to destruction in short order --
those are my 2 principal reason for using the BB7s.

But my main point is the adequacy of even the oldest of the cable discs:
they work *fine*. Even if they're not the most powerful, or if modulation
is not the best; even with the weight penalty and the careful adjustment to
avoid pad rub -- they just work, and work well. Power (= retardation with
respect to hand effort, as well as absolute retardation), modulation (on
par with V brakes), noise (squeak when dusty), rub (you have to know the
compromise between pad travel and pad force), pad wear, weight (at least
the additional wheel weight is at the hub and not the rim) -- all of these
are within quite acceptable limits, it seems to me, when compared to any
rim brake I've used, and I've used very many.

* I hope that most readers are not *too* unimaginatively earnest.

On Sun, Feb 4, 2018 at 3:58 PM, Jeffrey Arita 
wrote:

> Joe,
>
> A bit of background for you here:  Been cycling seriously since 1987.
> Ever since disc brakes came out I thought they were just another way for
> the cycling marketers to sell more stuffI did not buy into this 'new
> tech.'  I continued to ride a v-brake equipped bike.  We live here in dry
> Southern California, so of course the v-brakes worked brilliantly.  With
> the 'old' mountain bike looking long in the tooth, I went looking for a new
> one.  Upon examining all of the disc-brake equipped bikes, I lamented to
> the poor salesperson "why aren't there any v-brake equipped atb's out
> there??  He looked at me as if I were from Mars of course.I finally
> broke down and bought a brand spankin' new mountain bike, equipped with XTR
> hydraulic brakes.  After riding it on my favorite off-road loop I was a
> convert.  The power and touch those brakes provide is amazing.  Sometimes
> technology is a good thing.  This past year went on the Divide and used
> disc brake equipped bikes.  25 mile long downhills could do some serious
> abrasion to rims.  The disc rotors sacrificed themselves as easily
> replaceable components...
>
> So, yes, I would definitely consider a disc-brake equipped Riv.
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Cowboy Trail NE, Goatheads, tire choice

2018-02-04 Thread Patrick Moore
Actually, my points are 2: First: goatheads pose an entirely new level of
danger from flats; tires that will run thousands of miles without flats in
goathead-free areas will flat much more often if ridden in goathead
infested areas.

Second, if you choose tires, or flat-proofing systems, that are largely
proof against goatheads -- and these exist -- then you must deal with the
inevitable, and it is inevitable, degradation in quality of rolling
resistance and feel.

On Mon, Feb 5, 2018 at 12:08 AM, Patrick Moore  wrote:

> ...
>
> My point: The equation is not solved for everyone simply by choosing the
> most flat resistant tire on the market.
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Cowboy Trail NE, Goatheads, tire choice

2018-02-04 Thread Patrick Moore
Which Schwalbe tire were the 35s, and what were the puncture dangers? Are
goathead thorns a liability in the RAGBRAI region?

Sure, you can buy tires that will all but prevent flats from anything
except a sharp nail set at just the right angle, or a knife deliberately
pushed through the tread, but you accept the inevitable compromise in ride
quality, that is to say, diminished ride quality. You can buy solid tires
for bicycles, if you care to put up with the ride.

Now everyone's personal compromise is set differently. Me, I much preferred
to fix more flats than to ride tires that felt sluggish; really, I'd quit
riding if I were ever limited to the most sluggish tires I've ridden. But
whatever the compromise point, be sure that it's there. (And fixing flats,
once you get used to it, is really not the big deal that most people think
it is.)

Fortunately, modern sealants move the compromise bar quite a bit further
toward ride quality. These sealants do have their own downside and thus
their own compromise point, but they also do offer a new option where
goathead flats in particular are involved.

My point: The equation is not solved for everyone simply by choosing the
most flat resistant tire on the market.

On Sun, Feb 4, 2018 at 4:38 PM, iowegianor  wrote:

> ... . I have a pair of 35c Schwalbes that I just dedicate to do RAGBRAI
> every year, 4 years going strong, I think 2 flats total over the years. I
> also have 42c Schwalbe Marathons I use for commuting/general riding/gravel
> riding...last year, I did 12k on them - zero flatsZERO!
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Who wants a Hunqadiscer?

2018-02-04 Thread Jeffrey Arita
Joe,

A bit of background for you here:  Been cycling seriously since 1987.  Ever 
since disc brakes came out I thought they were just another way for the 
cycling marketers to sell more stuffI did not buy into this 'new 
tech.'  I continued to ride a v-brake equipped bike.  We live here in dry 
Southern California, so of course the v-brakes worked brilliantly.  With 
the 'old' mountain bike looking long in the tooth, I went looking for a new 
one.  Upon examining all of the disc-brake equipped bikes, I lamented to 
the poor salesperson "why aren't there any v-brake equipped atb's out 
there??  He looked at me as if I were from Mars of course.I finally 
broke down and bought a brand spankin' new mountain bike, equipped with XTR 
hydraulic brakes.  After riding it on my favorite off-road loop I was a 
convert.  The power and touch those brakes provide is amazing.  Sometimes 
technology is a good thing.  This past year went on the Divide and used 
disc brake equipped bikes.  25 mile long downhills could do some serious 
abrasion to rims.  The disc rotors sacrificed themselves as easily 
replaceable components...

So, yes, I would definitely consider a disc-brake equipped Riv.

Good luck!

Jeff  

On Saturday, February 3, 2018 at 12:30:33 PM UTC-8, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Now that I've conjured up my future-Riv on the "what type of bike" thread 
> (full disclosure: I also sent an email to Roman @ Riv), I guess I'll 
> campaign for it on its own thread. 
>
> I know Grant/Riv isn't big on disc brakes, but a lot of people prefer them 
> in the dirt. I'm not sure there's much of a market for a pricier 
> fully-lugged disc Riv, but a Hunqapillar-ish semi-TIGed 650B model in the 
> Clem/Roadini price range would be the bee's pajamas. Would you buy a Riv 
> dirt bike (I'm campaigning for a small "dirt bike" decal, too) with 
> mechanical discs?
>
> Joe "weak hands" Bernard
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Cowboy Trail NE, Goatheads, tire choice

2018-02-04 Thread iowegianor
Erl, yep, there's a highway and it's got a good shoulder on the side as 
well. Not a lot of bike shops up that way, but if you need help, Nebraskans 
(Midwesterners in general) will give you a lift to the nearby towns.

I think your Schwables will be fine w/o any sealant. I have a pair of 35c 
Schwalbes that I just dedicate to do RAGBRAI every year, 4 years going 
strong, I think 2 flats total over the years. I also have 42c Schwalbe 
Marathons I use for commuting/general riding/gravel riding...last year, I 
did 12k on them - zero flatsZERO!

Have fun man! Make sure to meet some locals, they make the trip memorable



On Sunday, February 4, 2018 at 12:23:15 PM UTC-6, WETH wrote:
>
> Patricks and Tim, 
> Thanks for the info.  I'll do some reading on Orange Seal and tubes with 
> removable valve cores.
> Dean, I appreciate the info from your ride.  From the reading I've done, 
> it seems portions of the western section (Atkinson to Valentine) are 
> afflicted with vegetation and thorns on the trail.  Apparently a state 
> highway runs parallel to the trail in sections and is used by some riders 
> weary of flats and rougher trail surfaces.  
> Thanks,
> Erl

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[RBW] Re: Who wants a Hunqadiscer?

2018-02-04 Thread DarinM
Those of you who want a disc-Riv, how would you feel about Rivendell 
offering just a disc fork option for a few of the exiting bikes? The front 
brake does most of our braking anyways, the rear is arguably only there for 
emergency use, except for maybe on dedicated MTB's which Riv doesn't really 
offer anyways. 

It may simplify things for them while also keeping everyone happy as you 
could order one or the other with your frame. I ask as someone who doesn't 
really see where discs would fit in their current line-up anyways, aside 
from maybe the Hunq. 

Darin in eastern WA

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Re: [RBW] Re: Who wants a Hunqadiscer?

2018-02-04 Thread Bill Schairer
I’m married to an artist and there are pieces she has been asked to make that 
she just doesn’t want to make.  The love is not there.  I happen to think of 
bicycles as pieces of art.  If the love is not there for the artist, I’m not 
sure the end product would meet the artist’s own standards and that is reason 
enough for not making it.

Bill

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Re: [RBW] Cowboy Trail NE, Goatheads, tire choice

2018-02-04 Thread Patrick Moore
Note too that with Orange Seal or any other sealant I've used, if you get a
bigger hole from glass or nail that the sealant can't seal, you'll have a
mess and a tube that you can't patch -- a downside of using sealant. But I
find that these sorts of punctures are so rare that a spare tube (with
sealant installed; or dry, but with a small bottle of the stuff) and a pump
is adequate protection.

On Sun, Feb 4, 2018 at 11:25 PM, Patrick Moore  wrote:

> FWIW, you can remove the cores from valves that are not "removable". Just
> use pliers to remove the core locknut; let the core fall into the tube
> (pinch tube under the valve stem so that it doth not disappear into the
> abyss), and squirt in your sealant. Even if the core does drop to the
> unimaginable, dark depths of the tube, it's easy to work it back into place
> with your fingers.
>
> Do you want an absolutely fool proof system against goatheads? I'll give
> you one.
>
> 1. Choose a tire with a very thick tread and a very thick thorn proof
> belt.
> 2. Add a "thorn proof" tube, the kind that is 1/3" thick on the bottom and
> weighs more than the tire.
> 3. Add a thick Mr Tuffy.
> 4. Add 4 oz of Slime.
>
> I've ridden 50 mm tires like this through literally a quarter of a mile of
> goathead vines covering pavement (ie, max force to drive into tire) and
> come out unscathed with no air loss* after several days.
>
> But! The ride was sh*t. It was like riding through cold molasses 12" deep
> in a 53 X 12 against a 40 mph headwind while sick with a 105* fever and the
> brakes locked and your saddle way too low.
>
> * The air cavity in thorn proof tubes is very small, what with the
> excessively thick tube walls.
>
> Back in the day, our local roadies adhered to "the system" which included
> lining your skinny racing tire with another racing tire from which you'd
> cut the beads. Seriously. Me, I found Kojaks and Michelin Pro Races and
> 5-10 flats a week easier to deal with.
>
> On Sun, Feb 4, 2018 at 11:23 AM, WETH  wrote:
>
>> Patricks and Tim,
>> Thanks for the info.  I'll do some reading on Orange Seal and tubes with
>> removable valve cores.
>> Dean,
>> I appreciate the info from your ride.  From the reading I've done, it
>> seems portions of the western section (Atkinson to Valentine) are afflicted
>> with vegetation and thorns on the trail.  Apparently a state highway runs
>> parallel to the trail in sections and is used by some riders weary of flats
>> and rougher trail surfaces.
>> Thanks,
>> Erl
>>
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>
>
>
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Re: [RBW] Cowboy Trail NE, Goatheads, tire choice

2018-02-04 Thread Patrick Moore
FWIW, you can remove the cores from valves that are not "removable". Just
use pliers to remove the core locknut; let the core fall into the tube
(pinch tube under the valve stem so that it doth not disappear into the
abyss), and squirt in your sealant. Even if the core does drop to the
unimaginable, dark depths of the tube, it's easy to work it back into place
with your fingers.

Do you want an absolutely fool proof system against goatheads? I'll give
you one.

1. Choose a tire with a very thick tread and a very thick thorn proof belt.
2. Add a "thorn proof" tube, the kind that is 1/3" thick on the bottom and
weighs more than the tire.
3. Add a thick Mr Tuffy.
4. Add 4 oz of Slime.

I've ridden 50 mm tires like this through literally a quarter of a mile of
goathead vines covering pavement (ie, max force to drive into tire) and
come out unscathed with no air loss* after several days.

But! The ride was sh*t. It was like riding through cold molasses 12" deep
in a 53 X 12 against a 40 mph headwind while sick with a 105* fever and the
brakes locked and your saddle way too low.

* The air cavity in thorn proof tubes is very small, what with the
excessively thick tube walls.

Back in the day, our local roadies adhered to "the system" which included
lining your skinny racing tire with another racing tire from which you'd
cut the beads. Seriously. Me, I found Kojaks and Michelin Pro Races and
5-10 flats a week easier to deal with.

On Sun, Feb 4, 2018 at 11:23 AM, WETH  wrote:

> Patricks and Tim,
> Thanks for the info.  I'll do some reading on Orange Seal and tubes with
> removable valve cores.
> Dean,
> I appreciate the info from your ride.  From the reading I've done, it
> seems portions of the western section (Atkinson to Valentine) are afflicted
> with vegetation and thorns on the trail.  Apparently a state highway runs
> parallel to the trail in sections and is used by some riders weary of flats
> and rougher trail surfaces.
> Thanks,
> Erl
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Fixed Gear and Crank Arm Length

2018-02-04 Thread Patrick Moore
To be precise: the 175s feel harder to spin at higher cadences; for me,
that;s 90+. They feel easier to spin, or to get up to a certain cadence,
*maybe,* at lower cadences, and given the bulk and diameter and contact
patch of the wheels -- 61 mm actual -- compared to the ~ 27 to 31 mm but
far smaller wheels of the other 3 bikes. Frankly, if you held a gun to my
head and said, "Choose *one*!" I'd just choose 170s.

On Sun, Feb 4, 2018 at 10:59 PM, Patrick Moore  wrote:

> I like to think I can get torque slightly more easily with the 175s on my
> Matthews, but really, what I feel is that they are slightly harder to spin
> compared to the 170s I use on everything else.
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Fixed Gear and Crank Arm Length

2018-02-04 Thread Patrick Moore
I like to think I can get torque slightly more easily with the 175s on my
Matthews, but really, what I feel is that they are slightly harder to spin
compared to the 170s I use on everything else. I certainly couldn't tell a
difference when I briefly used 172.5s on a Ram. There are so many variables
between the other bikes and the Matthews, starting with Q and including
wheel weight and diameter, overall bike weight, and tire width, that it's
really a guess to say this, but just perhaps it is easier to push a given
gear in given conditions at low to moderate cadences with the longer cranks
-- I seem find myself pushing a 68 to 72" gear on the Matthews, on
pavement, surprisingly easily given the weight of the wheels and the bike
compared to the others -- but again, it's just a guess. But it's a guess
that will have me staying with 175s for off road.

I've never used 165s.



> On Saturday, February 3, 2018 at 3:33:36 PM UTC-6, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>>
>> Both my Hunqapillar and Quickbeam have 175mm crank arms. Pedal strikes
>> have been a non-issue on the roads, but I’ve had a few, slow and
>> inconsequential, strikes on the trails. Those of you with experience (not
>> speculation, but actual riding experience): could you please help me
>> understand the effect of crank arm length in fixed gear riding on:
>>
>> — decreased leverage of a shorter arm. Is this a real-world, material
>> effect, or inconsequential. Put another way, if I go with 170 or 165mm
>> crank arms, am I going to need to go with a 42t instead of 44t chainring?
>> Or is the difference slight and inconsequential compared with increased
>> pedal clearence?
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Jones Bar on a Clem H, Appaloosa, or Yves Gomez?

2018-02-04 Thread tc
Yep, true.  The shortest reach/extension offered on the Nitto UI-12 is a 
60, and from there they go up by 10mm increments to a 120.  The column is 
only 140mm tall, so you'd have to want the bars sorta low.

On Sunday, February 4, 2018 at 12:49:49 PM UTC-5, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Yes, those quill open-clamp designs will work if you can find one short 
> enough. Jones Bikes are designed to work with that bar on a shorty stem, 
> and my Clem L had the same cockpit parameters. The only way I was getting a 
> 40cm stem was to go threadless. 

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[RBW] Un-un-racing update: My first ever mountain bike race

2018-02-04 Thread Bill Lindsay



I'm a pretty devout unracer.  One of my un-unracing activities is I'm the 
volunteer team mechanic for the El Cerrito High School Mountain bike racing 
team.  Today's team ride was a non-league race.  It was open to the public 
and the kids urged me to sign up.  So, I did my first ever mountain bike 
race.  I entered the Sport category, which might have been above my skill 
level, but whatever.  The weather was perfect down in Fort Ord, Monterrey.  
It was pretty exciting to be in a real racing environment.  Other fellas in 
the 45-54 age group tended to gain time on me in the technical turns and 
such and the descents, but I was pleased at the ground I'd make up on the 
climbs.  I was not last in the Sport 45-54, but was close. I think the kids 
all enjoyed that I got after it. Anyway, it was a memorable day on the 
bike, and it happened to be a day on the bike that demanded hydraulic disc 
brakes and through-axles and front suspension.  There's no way I could have 
used a Rivendell, even a hypothetical fantasy Rivendell.  The fact is, 
there are bikes out there for most tasks.  Sometimes it's fine to just use 
the right bike for the task and enjoy the ride.

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Who wants a Hunqadiscer?

2018-02-04 Thread William Henderson
Cost was $450 for a custom fork (matches original except disc tab and
stoutness) and ~200 to add a tab to the frame. ISO mounts.

I already needed a paint job and a new fork, so it was a no brainer for me.

On Sun, Feb 4, 2018 at 6:50 PM EasyRider  wrote:

> Kinda surprising that more people haven't done as William, and had disc
> mounts added their Atlantis, Hunq, Sam, etc., What would it cost, a few
> hundred? Plus repaint? Or maybe get Waterford to make a disc fork? I'd
> guess that'd be 400-500. Anyway, a lot less than buying a new disc Riv,
> were one to exist.
>
> Pete
>
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[RBW] Re: Who wants a Hunqadiscer?

2018-02-04 Thread EasyRider
Kinda surprising that more people haven't done as William, and had disc mounts 
added their Atlantis, Hunq, Sam, etc., What would it cost, a few hundred? Plus 
repaint? Or maybe get Waterford to make a disc fork? I'd guess that'd be 
400-500. Anyway, a lot less than buying a new disc Riv, were one to exist.

Pete

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[RBW] Who wants a Hunqadiscer?

2018-02-04 Thread Justin, Oakland
Every time someone makes the argument about unneeded complexity of hydro discs 
I think to the geometry charts that people reference for setting up 
cantilevers, laugh to myself, and keep going.

I’d get a disc Hunq. But honestly I’d probably just get a Jones at that point. 
Same approach in mindset to ride and utility without the worry about tradition. 

-J

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[RBW] Who wants a Hunqadiscer?

2018-02-04 Thread Ian A
Magura make a hydro V brake.  You don't have to go disc to get one finger 
braking.

IanA

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[RBW] Re: Who wants a Hunqadiscer?

2018-02-04 Thread RJM
Even though I would choose a disc Hunq if they offered it, I do agree with 
what you wrote, Mark. Rivs stop pretty well already and they just don't 
really need to add a disc brake unless it's warranted, like with the tandem.

On Sunday, February 4, 2018 at 4:48:02 PM UTC-6, Mark in Beacon wrote:
>
> I am going to rest my case {sustained applause} but I do want to clarify, 
> the main tenet  of my position has little to do with the efficacy of the 
> technology or the ease of setup, at least not in the conventional sense. I 
> had disc brakes on several cargo bikes and, briefly, a folder that came my 
> way. They worked okay, if a bit noisy. I am sure I could learn to work on 
> them. I have already used more than my allotted space on this and other 
> threads trying to explain my reasoning for  not being enamored of disc 
> brakes for basic, single rider non extreme bicycles. By the  way, like 
> jumbo shrimp, electric bicycle is an oxymoron;^] 
>
> Anyway, there is no doubt discs are here to stay, and have infiltrated 
> virtually every segment of the bicycle market. Which makes pining for a 
> disc braked Rivendell a little weird, since you can already get one 
> virtually any place else you care to go. I get that some think it will help 
> the company economically,  but I kinda don't see it having that much impact.
>
> On Sunday, February 4, 2018 at 2:56:28 PM UTC-5, Bob K. wrote:
>>
>> IME, mechanical disc brakes work really well. Hydros work really, really 
>> well. I agree with you, Mark, that we humans tend to embrace new technology 
>> rather quickly, often without considering consequences. However, mechanical 
>> disc brakes on a bike are—at this point—tried and true. I’m a philistine 
>> and a ham-fisted novice bike mechanic, and I’ve been able to figure out how 
>> to adjust both hydraulic and mechanical disc brakes by watching a couple of 
>> YouTube videos. The cr720s on my Sam are much more annoying to set up, 
>> actually. In other words, I don’t think mechanical disc brakes on a bike 
>> are one of those technologies of which we should be wary. 
>>
>> I have no skin in the game here. I likely wouldn’t buy a disc Hunq 
>> because I already like the disc Surly Troll I own. I also don’t think Riv 
>> will make a disc-braked bike, but it’s fun to dream. 
>>
>> Bob K. in Baltimore
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: What type of bike would make you buy another riv

2018-02-04 Thread nash5510
Haha! You got me!

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[RBW] Re: Who wants a Hunqadiscer?

2018-02-04 Thread Joe Bernard
I don't think it's weird to want discs on a Riv. I like the Riv aesthetic and 
ride, and it's completely unique to that company. I can go somewhere else to 
get the brakes I want, but I can't get somewhere else to duplicate a Rivendell 
frame for them. So I'm answering the question "what other Riv would you buy" 
from the other thread with this answer: Hunqadiscer. 

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[RBW] Re: Clem Smith Jr or Appaloosa as a mtb/gravel road bicycle.

2018-02-04 Thread tc
Hey Jeremy, what tires are you running in that pic?  For my application, 
I'll be running:

   - 1/3 forest path stuff with some single track runs, some roots, few 
   rocks, no long steep climbs/descents
   - 1/3 big gravel (up to 50-cent piece size), with some hard pack runs 
   where gravel has scattered away, 5 or 6 100-300 yd climbs/descents
   - 1/3 pavement

Supposedly the 59 Clem will take up to a 60mm/2.5" tire, so I *could *run 
something like the Surly Extraterrestrial on the 24mm inner diameter Alex 
DM24s.  At 928g, a pretty heavy tire though, and pretty much overkill for 
me.  I'm also looking at the Schwalbe G-One Speed (2.35", 530g) or 
Thunderburts (2.25", 575g) right now since so many seem to like them in 
situations similar to mine.

Thanks,
Tom
 

On Saturday, February 3, 2018 at 4:35:04 PM UTC-5, Jeremy Till wrote:
>
> That is exactly what I use my Clem for. Here's a picture of the most 
> recent configuration, with Jones loop bars, taken on my go-to MTB ride, the 
> Foresthill Divide Loop in Auburn, CA:
>
> https://www.instagram.com/p/BZbygMVlv_a/
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: What type of bike would make you buy another riv

2018-02-04 Thread Conway Bennett
FORK from a 59 cm Hunqapillar.  Sorry about that.

Fair winds,

Captain Conway Bennett
239.877.4119

On Feb 4, 2018 4:37 PM, "Joe Bernard"  wrote:

> What does "one from a 59cm" mean? I can't imagine you're really selling a
> Hunq frame/fork for $300.
>
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[RBW] Re: Who wants a Hunqadiscer?

2018-02-04 Thread 'Mark in Beacon' via RBW Owners Bunch
I am going to rest my case {sustained applause} but I do want to clarify, 
the main tenet  of my position has little to do with the efficacy of the 
technology or the ease of setup, at least not in the conventional sense. I 
had disc brakes on several cargo bikes and, briefly, a folder that came my 
way. They worked okay, if a bit noisy. I am sure I could learn to work on 
them. I have already used more than my allotted space on this and other 
threads trying to explain my reasoning for  not being enamored of disc 
brakes for basic, single rider non extreme bicycles. By the  way, like 
jumbo shrimp, electric bicycle is an oxymoron;^] 

Anyway, there is no doubt discs are here to stay, and have infiltrated 
virtually every segment of the bicycle market. Which makes pining for a 
disc braked Rivendell a little weird, since you can already get one 
virtually any place else you care to go. I get that some think it will help 
the company economically,  but I kinda don't see it having that much impact.

On Sunday, February 4, 2018 at 2:56:28 PM UTC-5, Bob K. wrote:
>
> IME, mechanical disc brakes work really well. Hydros work really, really 
> well. I agree with you, Mark, that we humans tend to embrace new technology 
> rather quickly, often without considering consequences. However, mechanical 
> disc brakes on a bike are—at this point—tried and true. I’m a philistine 
> and a ham-fisted novice bike mechanic, and I’ve been able to figure out how 
> to adjust both hydraulic and mechanical disc brakes by watching a couple of 
> YouTube videos. The cr720s on my Sam are much more annoying to set up, 
> actually. In other words, I don’t think mechanical disc brakes on a bike 
> are one of those technologies of which we should be wary. 
>
> I have no skin in the game here. I likely wouldn’t buy a disc Hunq because 
> I already like the disc Surly Troll I own. I also don’t think Riv will make 
> a disc-braked bike, but it’s fun to dream. 
>
> Bob K. in Baltimore

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Re: [RBW] Re: What type of bike would make you buy another riv

2018-02-04 Thread Joe Bernard
What does "one from a 59cm" mean? I can't imagine you're really selling a Hunq 
frame/fork for $300. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: What type of bike would make you buy another riv

2018-02-04 Thread nash5510
Seriously?  Yeah, I will buy that right now.  

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Re: [RBW] Re: What type of bike would make you buy another riv

2018-02-04 Thread Conway Bennett
If someone wants a Hunqapillar I have one from a 59cm.  How's $300 shipped?


Captain Conway,
www.ChicaGoByBoat.com
@svnightswimming

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Re: [RBW] Re: Jones Bar on a Clem H, Appaloosa, or Yves Gomez?

2018-02-04 Thread Dale Click
This must be an “all-rounder” bar for me.  No single track anymore, but
anything else is fair game.  My noodles have sufficed for everything so
far, but I’m looking at options. I like the out on the hoods position for
longer rides, and try to change hand placement often even though I
currently have no hand issues.

On Sun, Feb 4, 2018 at 12:49 PM Joe Bernard  wrote:

> Yes, those quill open-clamp designs will work if you can find one short
> enough. Jones Bikes are designed to work with that bar on a shorty stem,
> and my Clem L had the same cockpit parameters. The only way I was getting a
> 40cm stem was to go threadless.
>
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[RBW] Clem Smith Jr or Appaloosa as a mtb/gravel road bicycle.

2018-02-04 Thread RJM
Hey Patrick, I’ve been reading your blog and just wanted to say thanks for 
taking the time to record your thoughts and feelings on your rides. 

You are certainly putting that quickbeam through the paces and congrats for 
that. I have a rigid single speed mtb (not riv) that I use fairly often and 
find it to be quite a bit of fun too. Two speeds - sit and stand. Yes, you are 
correct; you are always in the right gear on a single speed...not the other way 
around.

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[RBW] Re: FS: Nitto racks, Thomson seat posts, Suntour XC and Shimano cantilevers, Bosco bars.

2018-02-04 Thread Julian Westerhout
Update:  

Mark's rack and Bosco bars are sold. 

The Thomson seat posts are both Elite models. I mis-specified diameter and 
length of the silver one -- upon an email query I looked again -- it is a 
27.4 diameter and 330mm length. 

Thanks, 

Julian Westerhout

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[RBW] Re: Who wants a Hunqadiscer?

2018-02-04 Thread Joe Bernard
The mechanical discs on my Bike Friday are definitely easier to set up than the 
Paul Racers on my Pashley. 

I think there will be a disc-braked Riv eventually, but Grant and I will 
probably be riding disc-braked electric trikes by the time it happens ;-)

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[RBW] Have you loved your model of Rivendell so much that you bought one of every color?

2018-02-04 Thread LBleriot
Sorta. It started with an orange Ram.  That led to a silver Rom. Then I ordered 
a blue Roadeo.  I rounded the “same bike’ collecttion With a Bailey Falls Blue 
(green) Heron.

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[RBW] Re: Who wants a Hunqadiscer?

2018-02-04 Thread Bob K.
IME, mechanical disc brakes work really well. Hydros work really, really well. 
I agree with you, Mark, that we humans tend to embrace new technology rather 
quickly, often without considering consequences. However, mechanical disc 
brakes on a bike are—at this point—tried and true. I’m a philistine and a 
ham-fisted novice bike mechanic, and I’ve been able to figure out how to adjust 
both hydraulic and mechanical disc brakes by watching a couple of YouTube 
videos. The cr720s on my Sam are much more annoying to set up, actually. In 
other words, I don’t think mechanical disc brakes on a bike are one of those 
technologies of which we should be wary.

I have no skin in the game here. I likely wouldn’t buy a disc Hunq because I 
already like the disc Surly Troll I own. I also don’t think Riv will make a 
disc-braked bike, but it’s fun to dream.

Bob K. in Baltimore

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[RBW] Re: Cowboy Trail NE, Goatheads, tire choice

2018-02-04 Thread islaysteve
Erl, I put Orange seal into the tubes on the bike that I converted to 650b 
for my daughter.  Although she doesn't have a whole lot of road (outdoor) 
miles on those wheels yet, she has had no flats.  I was able to get tubes 
with removable valve cores from Silver Exp. here in Kensington. I think 
they had to get them from the other store.   Inserting the OS wasn't much 
trouble as I recall.  I will see if I have the boxes or other indication of 
the tube brand (I think they had long valve stems, but that didn't 
matter).  Cheers, Steve


On Sunday, February 4, 2018 at 1:23:15 PM UTC-5, WETH wrote:
>
> Patricks and Tim, 
> Thanks for the info.  I'll do some reading on Orange Seal and tubes with 
> removable valve cores.
> Dean,
> I appreciate the info from your ride.  From the reading I've done, it 
> seems portions of the western section (Atkinson to Valentine) are afflicted 
> with vegetation and thorns on the trail.  Apparently a state highway runs 
> parallel to the trail in sections and is used by some riders weary of flats 
> and rougher trail surfaces.  
> Thanks,
> Erl

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[RBW] Re: Have you loved your model of Rivendell so much that you bought one of every color?

2018-02-04 Thread T.O.M.
Yes, No, Sorta?

You're now the owner of my 1st ever Rivy,, a (bit too big for me) 54cm 
Rambouillet in "Rivendellicious Blue",  liked the color (and the bike) so 
much I was lucky to find an 52cm Rambo in the same color! 

Manny (T.O.M.)

On Saturday, February 3, 2018 at 5:14:05 PM UTC-7, Lum Gim Fong wrote:

> Just wondering if anyone here has done that.
> I think about doing that sometimes. But that would be a tremendous amount 
> of money. Maybe over the years...


 

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[RBW] Cowboy Trail NE, Goatheads, tire choice

2018-02-04 Thread WETH
Patricks and Tim, 
Thanks for the info.  I'll do some reading on Orange Seal and tubes with 
removable valve cores.
Dean,
I appreciate the info from your ride.  From the reading I've done, it seems 
portions of the western section (Atkinson to Valentine) are afflicted with 
vegetation and thorns on the trail.  Apparently a state highway runs parallel 
to the trail in sections and is used by some riders weary of flats and rougher 
trail surfaces.  
Thanks,
Erl

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[RBW] FS: Nitto racks, Thomson seat posts, Suntour XC and Shimano cantilevers, Bosco bars.

2018-02-04 Thread Julian Westerhout


For Sale — all prices include shipping w/in CONUS


Bosco bars cromo 55cm/25.4  take offs from my Clem — never ridden.  $55


Thomson 27.2 300mm silver seat post, with cloth bag. Lots of scratches on 
bottom 5 inches or so — pristine above insert line. $50


Thomson 27.2 250mm black seat post. Clean, very good condition. $40


NItto Marks’ rack — new diving board. Missing one strut retainer (see 
photos), Overall good condition.  $75


Nitto M12 front rack — in as new condition. Includes set of Nitto canti 
bolts and acorn nuts for mounting.   $70


Dia Compe 985 cantilevers — black — one bikes worth. No pads or bolts, 
brand new, never mounted  $20


Suntour XC Ltd cantilevers — one bikes worth, with Koolstop Salmon pads. 
Dirty and used, but in good working order. $25


Suntour XC Pro cantilevers — one bike’s worth. Very lightly used, with VO 
pads and holders. $50


Shimano cantilever brakes — I think these are the BR-R550 model. One bike’s 
worth, with Koolstop Salmon Pads  $35


Photos at https://flic.kr/s/aHskvGMK7S


Paypal friends preferred. 


Julian Westerhout

Bloomington, IL 

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[RBW] Re: Jones Bar on a Clem H, Appaloosa, or Yves Gomez?

2018-02-04 Thread Joe Bernard
Yes, those quill open-clamp designs will work if you can find one short enough. 
Jones Bikes are designed to work with that bar on a shorty stem, and my Clem L 
had the same cockpit parameters. The only way I was getting a 40cm stem was to 
go threadless. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: What type of bike would make you buy another riv

2018-02-04 Thread nash5510
No, they are pretty different.  

On Saturday, February 3, 2018 at 5:20:25 PM UTC-8, Sky Coulter wrote:
> Isn’t that the clem?
> 
> Sky in new west
> 
> > On Feb 3, 2018, at 5:11 PM, nash5...@gmail.com wrote:
> > 
> > Something like a hunq but with the price point of a clem.  That would do it 
> > for me.  
> > 
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[RBW] Re: Jones Bar on a Clem H, Appaloosa, or Yves Gomez?

2018-02-04 Thread tc
Agree, Joe.  The Jones Loop H-Bar's beauty (well, some say it's ugly) is 
the number of realistic and comfortable hand positions ... while giving 
very confident control on or off road.  I also like the convenience that 
the Jones H-Bar Pack 
 (made by 
Revelate) offers.

Researching this morning I found that, in addition to the VO 31.8 stem 
options, there are quite a few others -- both  2- and 4-bold designs -- 
like the 4-bolt Nitto UI-12.

[image: Nitto UI-12 Quill Stem]


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[RBW] WTB - Riv Reader #37

2018-02-04 Thread 'Tim' via RBW Owners Bunch
Of interest to the Honorable Mr. Lum Gim Fong: With Steve having piqued my 
interest, I've been reading RR 37 and there is an extensive section on the 
Bleriot (I'm thinking it was a new model in 2006, the year of RR37) that you 
may find very interesting. Let me know and I'll shoot you the PDF too.

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[RBW] Re: Jones Bar on a Clem H, Appaloosa, or Yves Gomez?

2018-02-04 Thread Joe Bernard
Rusty, it depends on what kind of riding you'll be doing. Albatross is a nice 
city bar for cruising, but you better like the upright position near the ends 
'cause that's realistically the only one available. I've used them a bunch and 
like them, but I don't recommend going on a long, wind-blown ride with Albas 
and they're just about useless on sketchy downhill dirt sections. 

Loop is the business for long, mixed-terrain rides because the hand positions 
give you options for gripping at the ends like Alba; moving forward to stretch 
out and get lower in the wind; and having a more secure, controlled grip for 
dirt downhills. 

The last - and very important consideration - is how you feel about the looks 
and stem requirements. I originally intended to put my Loop 2.5 cockpit on my 
new Cheviot, but I made a conscious decision to focus this bike as a townie 
2-speed with a specific look..I opted for a long quill Nitto stem and 
flipped-and-chopped Choco bars. This setup looks and works great for how I ride 
this bike, but I wouldn't want to tour or hit singletrack with it. 

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[RBW] Re: Fixed Gear and Crank Arm Length

2018-02-04 Thread RJM
I switched from 172.5 and 175 to 165 because I was getting knee pain and 
some research told me that it may have to do with crank length. It worked, 
after switching the distance my leg had to travel on each pedal stroke and 
for some reason helped the knee pain.  The short cranks helped with pedal 
strikes on the mtbs too. 

On Saturday, February 3, 2018 at 3:33:36 PM UTC-6, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Both my Hunqapillar and Quickbeam have 175mm crank arms. Pedal strikes 
> have been a non-issue on the roads, but I’ve had a few, slow and 
> inconsequential, strikes on the trails. Those of you with experience (not 
> speculation, but actual riding experience): could you please help me 
> understand the effect of crank arm length in fixed gear riding on: 
>
> — decreased leverage of a shorter arm. Is this a real-world, material 
> effect, or inconsequential. Put another way, if I go with 170 or 165mm 
> crank arms, am I going to need to go with a 42t instead of 44t chainring? 
> Or is the difference slight and inconsequential compared with increased 
> pedal clearence? 
>
> With abandon, 
> Patrick 
>
> www.CredoFamily.org 
> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org

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[RBW] Re: Jones Bar on a Clem H, Appaloosa, or Yves Gomez?

2018-02-04 Thread Rusty Click
Joe, I was thinking about the Jones for the upcoming Atlantis build.  What 
do you think of that, versus the Albatross?

On Saturday, February 3, 2018 at 1:07:01 PM UTC-5, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> I had the riser 2.5 Loop (660mm) on my Clem L and really liked it. Clems 
> have long (virtual) toptubes commensurate to seattube size so I used a 
> shorty 40cm Thomson stem on a V-O quill adapter. 
>
> I was just pondering last night that I should sell the cockpit because I 
> sold the Clem and currently don't have a bike to put this bar on. If you 
> think you might want to try one without paying full pop for new, PM me or 
> text at 415 seven eight six 46 two three and I'll send pics of it off the 
> bike. 
>
> Here's pics on the Clem.
>   https://photos.app.goo.gl/QDiNsiAcGmMVxmTy1 
>
> Joe Bernard
> Novato CA. 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: wtb 55 frame or complete

2018-02-04 Thread MountNormal
Andrew,
   I didn't receive a message...if you're so inclined you might try 
"stephenmwebster @ yahoo dot com" ...the private messaging on here always 
baffles me too. 

Stephen 

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[RBW] Fixed Gear and Crank Arm Length

2018-02-04 Thread A. Douglas M.
I have ridden fixed on the street and light trails where I used a 165mm 
crankset (on a RB2 conversion and then on a QB). I generally ride a 172.5 road 
and 175 mountain arm length.  I really enjoyed the different feel the 165 gave 
me. If you get the chance, I encourage you to try it just for fun. You may find 
yourself sitting more. 

Best, 

Aaron

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[RBW] Cowboy Trail NE, Goatheads, tire choice

2018-02-04 Thread iowegianor
I'm a Nebraskan, and rode the trail from O'Neil to Norfolk last year.

I'd say your marathons will hold up for sure. I didn't encounter any goatheads, 
but not saying there isn't any. 

Kansas is a notorious state for those damn things.  When I lived down there,  I 
only had a few flats on thousands of miles of riding my Scwalbe Marathon Plus 
tires through goathead country. 

Just bring extra tubes, you'll be good. Have fun!!!

Dean

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Re: [RBW] Re: Who wants a Hunqadiscer?

2018-02-04 Thread Addison Wilhite
I adore and prize my Allrounder.  It's the last and only Riv I own.  The
only time I lust for another Riv is the occasional Legolas pang.  If a
Hunqapillar 650b disc came out it would shoot to the top of my bike desire
list.  Easily.  Rocky descents here in Nevada make it difficult to enjoy
singletrack without discs anymore.

+1 for a disc Riv.


Addison Wilhite, M.A.

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*“Blazing the Trail to College and Career Success”*

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Blogger: Reno Rambler 


On Sun, Feb 4, 2018 at 7:50 AM, Joe Bernard  wrote:

> "..and that they seem to go hand in
> hand with the adoption of new standards that make the use of those parts
> that are so characteristic of Rivendell builds out of the question."
>
> How do discs "seem" to do this on a bicycle I've repeatedly described as
> using all normal Riv parts aside from the brakes? Let's take 4 Rivs stout
> enough for pounding around on trails: Hunqapillar, Atlantis, Appaloosa and
> Clem. Put a standard Riv build on them, then have the cables end at discs
> instead of v-brakes or cantis. The only things that have changed are no rim
> brakes and the hubs are disc compatible. Maybe you need disc compatible
> racks, but there's a ton of them out there. I don't see the problem you're
> describing.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Who wants a Hunqadiscer?

2018-02-04 Thread Joe Bernard
"..and that they seem to go hand in 
hand with the adoption of new standards that make the use of those parts 
that are so characteristic of Rivendell builds out of the question."

How do discs "seem" to do this on a bicycle I've repeatedly described as using 
all normal Riv parts aside from the brakes? Let's take 4 Rivs stout enough for 
pounding around on trails: Hunqapillar, Atlantis, Appaloosa and Clem. Put a 
standard Riv build on them, then have the cables end at discs instead of 
v-brakes or cantis. The only things that have changed are no rim brakes and the 
hubs are disc compatible. Maybe you need disc compatible racks, but there's a 
ton of them out there. I don't see the problem you're describing. 

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[RBW] Re: wtb 55 frame or complete

2018-02-04 Thread Andrew Huston
I'll be honest, I have a lot of difficulty with Riv sizing despite all the 
talk about the topic.  I tend to want to stick to a TT length in the 55-57 
range.  Maybe I should have been more specific.  PHB of 83 tends to land me 
on the cusp of two sizes and when I go up, it tends to feel too big. 
 Basically we need more stocking dealers for test rides.  I did PM Conway 
and Mount Normal, not sure they got thru. 

On Friday, February 2, 2018 at 6:39:37 PM UTC-5, Andrew Huston wrote:
>
> Any sams, hilsens, hunqs, etc looking for a new home?  55ish size

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Re: [RBW] Cowboy Trail NE, Goatheads, tire choice

2018-02-04 Thread Patrick Moore
You don't need tubeless tires to use sealants that effectively prevent
goatheads punctures.

On Sat, Feb 3, 2018 at 7:50 PM, WETH  wrote:

> My son and I plan on riding several of the country's (USA) railtrails this
> summer, including the Cowboy Trail in Nebraska.
> http://www.bikecowboytrail.com/default.aspx
>
> Previous riders of this trail have reported in online journals that there
> are thorns and "goatheads" in several sections that caused multiple flats
> or made folks happy they used tubeless tires.  I'm an Easterner who has no
> goathead experience.  I also do not run tubeless tires and do not own any
> tubeless compatible rims.  I also would rather not mess with sealant in my
> tubes.
>
> What, if any, 700x35-40 tires have proved goathead resistant with tubes
> and no sealant in the tubes? Schwalbe  Marathon Mondials?
>
> Has anyone ridden the entirety of the Cowboy Trail who can substantiate
> the severity of  goatheads along the way? Recommend tires?
>
> The Riv bikes we will be riding have Little Big Bens. Should I stick with
> those, bring a gross of tubes, and try to improve my flat fixing time?
>
> Thanks,
> Erl
> Kensington, MD
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Who wants a Hunqadiscer?

2018-02-04 Thread William Henderson
Switching my Atlantis to disc brakes represents somewhat of a controlled
experiment, and I can tell you that if anything changed about the “ride
quality” it is undetectable. Perhaps on a road bike with skinny tires it
would be different.
On Sun, Feb 4, 2018 at 7:05 AM 'Mark in Beacon' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> Again, sure, why not? But that doesn't mean someone else can't look at
> bicycle braking technologies and decide, with equal validity, why? It may
> not be a popular decision, it may be seen as "impeding progress" or simply
> as stubborn. But it doesn't make it wrong. This decision by itself may or
> may not be a game changer, but as more and more of these choices acrue, the
> path changes irrevocably. I know everyone says cars are so much better now
> than back in the day, but most guys no longer have the tools or the
> $100,000 diagnostic computer needed to tinker with them, never mind teach
> their sons. And a rear view mirror, which you could once adjust by rolling
> down the window and giving it a twist, is now electronically operated and
> costs a fortune to replace or fix. We see all the shiny positives in these
> developments and plunge in wholeheartedly, but truly, there are drawbacks,
> both for individuals and society. The best choice there would have been to
> limit our use of cars and design things around trains and trolleys and
> bicycles and walking. You make cars more "efficient" and "safe" and then
> you fall into things like Jevon's Paradox, and now you need more parking
> lots and roads and other infrastructure and maintaining it all, not to
> mention the increased time humans spend in automobiles shuffling ourselves
> about. And as we know, that's just the tip of the problem's iceberg.
>
> On Sunday, February 4, 2018 at 2:57:22 AM UTC-5, rw1911 wrote:
>>
>> I wrote a big, long response sharing my personal experiences with moving
>> to new tech related to bikes and cars, but in the end, I came to the same
>> place...
>>
>> Why not?  Disc brakes are good.  Maybe they they don't have the character
>> or aesthetics of our beloved rim brakes, but they are good, even better
>> when added to the already wonderful qualities of a Riv. (lugged Hunqadiscer
>> for me please)
>>
>>
>>
>> On Saturday, February 3, 2018 at 3:30:33 PM UTC-5, Joe Bernard wrote:
>>>
>>> Now that I've conjured up my future-Riv on the "what type of bike"
>>> thread (full disclosure: I also sent an email to Roman @ Riv), I guess I'll
>>> campaign for it on its own thread.
>>>
>>> I know Grant/Riv isn't big on disc brakes, but a lot of people prefer
>>> them in the dirt. I'm not sure there's much of a market for a pricier
>>> fully-lugged disc Riv, but a Hunqapillar-ish semi-TIGed 650B model in the
>>> Clem/Roadini price range would be the bee's pajamas. Would you buy a Riv
>>> dirt bike (I'm campaigning for a small "dirt bike" decal, too) with
>>> mechanical discs?
>>>
>>> Joe "weak hands" Bernard
>>>
>>> --
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[RBW] Re: Who wants a Hunqadiscer?

2018-02-04 Thread 'Mark in Beacon' via RBW Owners Bunch
Again, sure, why not? But that doesn't mean someone else can't look at 
bicycle braking technologies and decide, with equal validity, why? It may 
not be a popular decision, it may be seen as "impeding progress" or simply 
as stubborn. But it doesn't make it wrong. This decision by itself may or 
may not be a game changer, but as more and more of these choices acrue, the 
path changes irrevocably. I know everyone says cars are so much better now 
than back in the day, but most guys no longer have the tools or the 
$100,000 diagnostic computer needed to tinker with them, never mind teach 
their sons. And a rear view mirror, which you could once adjust by rolling 
down the window and giving it a twist, is now electronically operated and 
costs a fortune to replace or fix. We see all the shiny positives in these 
developments and plunge in wholeheartedly, but truly, there are drawbacks, 
both for individuals and society. The best choice there would have been to 
limit our use of cars and design things around trains and trolleys and 
bicycles and walking. You make cars more "efficient" and "safe" and then 
you fall into things like Jevon's Paradox, and now you need more parking 
lots and roads and other infrastructure and maintaining it all, not to 
mention the increased time humans spend in automobiles shuffling ourselves 
about. And as we know, that's just the tip of the problem's iceberg.

On Sunday, February 4, 2018 at 2:57:22 AM UTC-5, rw1911 wrote:
>
> I wrote a big, long response sharing my personal experiences with moving 
> to new tech related to bikes and cars, but in the end, I came to the same 
> place...
>
> Why not?  Disc brakes are good.  Maybe they they don't have the character 
> or aesthetics of our beloved rim brakes, but they are good, even better 
> when added to the already wonderful qualities of a Riv. (lugged Hunqadiscer 
> for me please)
>
>
>
> On Saturday, February 3, 2018 at 3:30:33 PM UTC-5, Joe Bernard wrote:
>>
>> Now that I've conjured up my future-Riv on the "what type of bike" thread 
>> (full disclosure: I also sent an email to Roman @ Riv), I guess I'll 
>> campaign for it on its own thread. 
>>
>> I know Grant/Riv isn't big on disc brakes, but a lot of people prefer 
>> them in the dirt. I'm not sure there's much of a market for a pricier 
>> fully-lugged disc Riv, but a Hunqapillar-ish semi-TIGed 650B model in the 
>> Clem/Roadini price range would be the bee's pajamas. Would you buy a Riv 
>> dirt bike (I'm campaigning for a small "dirt bike" decal, too) with 
>> mechanical discs?
>>
>> Joe "weak hands" Bernard
>>
>>

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[RBW] WTB - Riv Reader #37

2018-02-04 Thread 'Tim' via RBW Owners Bunch
Hi Steve. I have it in PDF form. I could email it to you if you'd like. Someone 
else may have a hard copy.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Who wants a Hunqadiscer?

2018-02-04 Thread Steve Palincsar



On 02/04/2018 02:57 AM, rw1911 wrote:
I wrote a big, long response sharing my personal experiences with 
moving to new tech related to bikes and cars, but in the end, I came 
to the same place...


Why not?  Disc brakes are good.  Maybe they they don't have the 
character or aesthetics of our beloved rim brakes, but they are good, 
even better when added to the already wonderful qualities of a Riv. 
(lugged Hunqadiscer for me please)





Why not?  Well, two reasons might be that they require ultra-stiff forks 
that destroy that nice ride you admire, and that they seem to go hand in 
hand with the adoption of new standards that make the use of those parts 
that are so characteristic of Rivendell builds out of the question.


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[RBW] Cowboy Trail NE, Goatheads, tire choice

2018-02-04 Thread 'Tim' via RBW Owners Bunch
In reading the product description on the Riv site for Little Big Bens, it says 
they have the KevlarGuard, which could well be enough protection. Schwalbe's 
most flat resistant would be the Marathon with SmartGuard. You might find them 
sluggish. I, too, have not gone down the sealant/tubes route, but Patrick 
squared (that's Deacon and Mr. Moore) seem to really know of what they speak 
when espousing the virtues of that setup (Mr. Moore is in goathead heaven or 
hell, depending on how you look at it.) In reading this thread, I realize that 
when I toured on Compass EL in May, had I had sealant I might well have not had 
to change to a different rear tire partway through. I had too many flats but 
none so severe that sealant wouldn't have taken care of it (I think.) 

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[RBW] Re: FS: Woolistic wool jersey from Rivendell

2018-02-04 Thread Brad
SOLD!

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[RBW] Re: What type of bike would make you buy another riv

2018-02-04 Thread Edwin W
Alex’s #2. 

Justin: I never saw the Argo. That’s cool. I think I am out of the box bike 
range now, the single purpose-ness of the box bike is why I sold mine. 

Edwin

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[RBW] Re: Jones Bar on a Clem H, Appaloosa, or Yves Gomez?

2018-02-04 Thread Jay Connolly
I had the Jones on my Appaloosa and loved it. When I bought a Clem L, I moved 
the bar to that bike and put a Noodle bar on the Joe, but I’m a tinkerer, so 
I’ll probably go back one of these days.

Jay

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[RBW] Re: Who wants a Hunqadiscer?

2018-02-04 Thread Steve Butcher
I was thinking the very same thing, recently, Chris.  My "grail" bike has 
been a Hunqapillar;  but I simply find obtaining one cost prohibitive.

Steve "el cheapo" Butcher

On Saturday, February 3, 2018 at 7:34:28 PM UTC-6, Chris Lampe 2 wrote:
>
> I don't really have an interest in disc brakes but a tig welded 
> Hunqapillar clone in the clem frameset price range would make me a happy 
> man.  
>
>
>
> On Saturday, February 3, 2018 at 2:30:33 PM UTC-6, Joe Bernard wrote:
>>
>> Now that I've conjured up my future-Riv on the "what type of bike" thread 
>> (full disclosure: I also sent an email to Roman @ Riv), I guess I'll 
>> campaign for it on its own thread. 
>>
>> I know Grant/Riv isn't big on disc brakes, but a lot of people prefer 
>> them in the dirt. I'm not sure there's much of a market for a pricier 
>> fully-lugged disc Riv, but a Hunqapillar-ish semi-TIGed 650B model in the 
>> Clem/Roadini price range would be the bee's pajamas. Would you buy a Riv 
>> dirt bike (I'm campaigning for a small "dirt bike" decal, too) with 
>> mechanical discs?
>>
>> Joe "weak hands" Bernard
>>
>>

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