longer than the current one which will increase
>room for steam. If it's too long then there won't be enough water to
>create steam.
The more water, the more potential for steam, but too high and it
doesn't work so well. Same with p
valve from Chris Coffee. I think there are pictures in
the groups area on Google groups.
Ira
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"Brewtus" group.
To post to this group, send email to brewtus@
Are you really emptying the brew boiler?
Ira
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"Brewtus" group.
To post to this group, send email to brewtus@googlegroups.com
To unsubscribe from this group, sen
At 01:47 PM 9/20/2008, you wrote:
>Apparently you got some salt above the water line and it is slowly
>settling into your brew boiler.
The brew boiler should be full or essentially full so in theory,
there is no water line.
Ira
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~---
n the brew boiler and that means it takes
a lot of flushing before it's diluted enough to not notice.
Ira
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"Brewtus" group.
To post to this group, send e
through the pump both
lubricates and cools it.
Ira
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"Brewtus" group.
To post to this group, send email to brewtus@googlegroups.com
To unsubscribe from this
boiler so even if the pump would pump air, it won't actually pump any
water out of the brew boiler.
Ira
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"Brewtus" group.
To post to this group, send
At 12:57 PM 9/21/2008, you wrote:
>The problem is, as far as I know it's pointless as the pump can't
>pump water and the connection to the brew head is from the top of the
Oops!!!
The problem is, as far as I know it's pointless as the pump can't pump "AIR".
--~--~-~--~~---
At 03:44 PM 9/21/2008, you wrote:
>I descaled, and it took a LOT of flushing to finally remove the flavor, and
>i run rotary pump.
Well, if you have a rotary pump just run a few gallons of water
through it and it will probably be fine, with a vibe pump it's a bit h
hat possibility and I don't
expect to do more than pay for a few pounds of coffee but I find them
so useful It also seems wrong to not mention it.
Ira
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"Brew
. If you need help, send me an email off list and
we can talk on the phone while we troubleshoot. or, you can call WLL.
Ira
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"Brewtus" group.
To post to thi
discovered that for about $9 you can buy a
perfectly good heater for an espresso machine. Might not fit the
Brewtus, but it does make the question of where to get an element
for a home built machine a bit simpler.
Ira
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this mess
Odd no one told us, but WLL has the Brewtus III on their site now!
PID and optional rotary pump.
Ira
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"Brewtus" group.
To post to this group, send email
At 10:59 AM 11/29/2008, you wrote:
>In the group file section there are 2 naked portafilter images posted
>by Barista Rolf. What is the make and model and where can I get one
>in the US?
I think I got mine from Chris. It's a reasonably standard
wheel there and which way the wheel rolls.
Straight up and down or is it off at an angle. Also, is the nut
perfect or was it tightened with a pair of pliers and lastly, can you
see a white washer behind it?
Thanks, Ira
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this
it from
wearing out but finding ways to connect it to the boilers might be
tricky and it's bend radius is rather large.
Ira
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"Brewtus" group.
To po
ot; breaker bar, it was
a bit of overkill for the amount of force required but with a wrap of
tape it fit perfect and didn't leave a mark. I think it's the socket
used for pulling the rear axle nut from Volkswagens Beetles and 356
Porsches. Dad dro
At 07:03 AM 12/25/2008, you wrote:
>Is there an upgrade kit for the Brewtus II available (to the Brewtus III-R)?
Not yet, but he's promised to let us know if it's possible.
Ira
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this message because you are subs
ards so I'd guess if you
can get it apart and clean it there's a chance it will work again.
Ira
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"Brewtus" group.
To post to this group, send email
, that might be the one way valve.
Just be careful and make sure you're not breaking anything.
I'm assuming the brass side is the outlet, if not tell me and I'll
re-think what I said.
Ira
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this message because you
eone else's cleaning
instructions with pictures?
http://ulkapumprepair.blogspot.com/search/label/pump
http://www.coffeegeek.com/forums/espresso/machines/54486
Ira
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Br
do 2 minutes at P1, then press stop followed quickly by 1lb, P2, B,
Start. For me that seems to hit first within 15 seconds of the power
drop and stretch the P1-P2 spread to 3 minutes or so.
Ira
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this message because you are s
At 02:46 PM 1/19/2009, you wrote:
>Ira thanks for the suggestion. I read about the Behmor thing, however
>I still do not understand how it works, is it like a third party
>firmware update to override the original factory firmware?
It's just a program to help visualize the
p. Then put
de-scaling solution in a bottle, put the inlet hose in the bottle and
turn on the machine. The brew boiler is harder as it's tough to drain.
Ira
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"B
At 07:24 PM 1/19/2009, you wrote:
>Ira, I just tried the software and it did not run. I got errors all
>over the pace. I did it twice.
>I have Vista 64 bit... maybe that is the reason why.
Did you download the msi file and install
At 04:30 AM 1/22/2009, you wrote:
>Ira, I just tried your roasting suggestion ( 12 ounces ) with my blend
>and it worked as advertised . At the end I had to add a couple of
>minutes and I got to second crack !!! How did you figure out this
>roasting profile? using the Behm
#x27;t it?
When you get that message, navigate to the indicated folder and click
on BehmorThing.vdb then click open. BehmorThing.vdb must be
highlighted before you click open.
Ira
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this message because you are subscribed
ess I was moving the pitcher to much
while watching the pour and it messed up the milk.
A rather pleasant but unexpected discovery, especially as it seems
that the milk whirlpools less this way then it did before.
Ira
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this mes
then set it down on the
corner as soon as it's time for the whirlpool stage.
Ira
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"Brewtus" group.
To post to this group, send email to brewtus@googleg
t how much to stretch before I
set it on the corner.
Ira
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"Brewtus" group.
To post to this group, send email to brewtus@googlegroups.com
To unsubscribe from th
At 12:06 AM 2/5/2009, you wrote:
>(In addition to the above possibilities, I wonder if another "failure
>mode" could be some kind of single-point blockage in the thermosiphon,
>thereby increasing the actual delta.
In that case, if you keep measuring the temp as you continue to fill
the cup, you
itch under the reservoir.
If the lights are on, make sure you can hear the switch click when
you get the handle between 1/2 and all the way up. It's not loud, but
at least for me it's distinctive. Also make sure the handle is
pushing the switch behind it. On mine i
.
Been pondering this on and off all day, but a shower did it.
Most likely it's the power switch or the wiring going to the switch,
pull the case and have a look.
Ira
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this message because you are subscribed to the G
;t have a meter or know
how to use one. If you can "SAFELY" jumper across the switch and then
plug it in you'll know right away. But don't do it if you don't know.
If you're in Los Angeles, I'd likely drop over.
Ira
--~--~-~--~~~-
At 10:12 AM 4/14/2009, you wrote:
>Sorry what does SSR stand for?
Solid State Relay
Ira
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"Brewtus" group.
To post to this group, send ema
At 10:49 AM 4/14/2009, you wrote:
>So that was part of his PID modification and not a standard part of
>the machine?
I would assume so.
Ira
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"Brewtus
that the water dripping from there to the drip tray splashed a
bit so I added a 1" piece of small diameter brass tube so the water
doesn't fall so far. and now it's perfect. I can pour a quart of
water in the tray and it empties slo
overshoot
after the heater turns off. I picked up the required PID and SSR for
less than the cost of that part but there's no room in the case to
fit it so it needs work to get it in.
Ira
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this message because you are su
At 05:46 PM 5/14/2009, you wrote:
>Hi Ira, When you switched to the PID control, how did you address the
>thermocouple wire? Did you use the same thermowell with a new wire?
>Also, is the controller mounting hole on the front plate too small, or too
>big?
I've not installe
urge,
Not any more than just flipping the switch on and off or plugging and
un-plugging the machine.
Ira
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"Brewtus" group.
To post to this grou
At 01:43 PM 6/5/2009, you wrote:
>Ira, when I read it I found it weird as well, however, they service
>machines and they should know what they are talking about.
>
> http://www.1st-line.com/cofffact/power_protection.htm
>
>b) if you have a timer on the outlet, you should
ey are switched on.
A spark is NOT a surge, it's an artifact of a non-zero-crossing
switch. ALL mechanical switches arc and none of them create surges.
And the spark has absolutely nothing to do with why light bulbs burn
out when turned on.
Ira
--~--~-~--~~~
so long under high
loads, like those of an espresso machine.
Ira
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"Brewtus" group.
To post to this group, send email to brewtus@googlegroups.com
To unsubscrib
e difference between switching inductive and resistive loads.
Ira
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"Brewtus" group.
To post to this group, send email to brewtus@googlegroups.com
To unsub
uspect the energy consumed would cost a little more.
Without a PID you'd probably find the recovery faster, but the
stability would be worse because it would likely overshoot further.
In the steam boiler it would probably be positive.
Ira
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~-
l use
it with both roasters, one of the goals in V2 was to make it useful
for all roasters.
Ira
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"Brewtus" group.
To post to this group, send email t
ranywhere.com.
Didn't require any drilling, just bending a corner of left rear
corner of the inner panel so the 1/4" line could get by a smooth
corner. I think I put pictures up in the groups area.
Ira
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this messa
t in the spike to cause a problem,
>but
There is no 20,000 volt spark, it's no more than 117 volts.
Ira
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"Brewtus" group.
To post t
any ideas?
It sparks, because the gap starts at 0 where 117 volts is plenty to
spark, once the air is ionized by the spark, the 117 volts can jump a
much wider gap, it has nothing to do with surges. Someday look at the
voltages used in arc welding, considerably less than 100
d range. If it doesn't seem stable it may be time to
replace the pressurestat.
Ira
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"Brewtus" group.
To post to this group, send email to brewtus@
hth turn to change the
>presssure onr point. - Dennis
I've never adjusted mine so I didn't really know where to start,
thanks for the correction.
Ira
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"Bre
my point of view, the one
they sent to the list wasn't.
Ira
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"Brewtus" group.
To post to this group, send email to brewtus@googlegroups.com
To unsubs
red light is on it's trying to heat. A meter would let you check
across the 4 or 5 contacts in the chain to the heater and see where
the problem is. That is assuming you are comfortable around 117VAC
with a meter.
If you're in Los Angeles and not, just pop over
nutes till the roast finishes, it's not for you, but if you can
do that, it's easy to get started.
Ira
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"Brewtus" group.
To post to this group,
out the steam water level controller.
Ira
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"Brewtus" group.
To post to this group, send email to brewtus@googlegroups.com
To unsubscribe from this group, se
scaling, if it's
cooling off when the pump runs 5 seconds than your steam boiler is
way to cold and you most likely need to replace or adjust the pressurestat.
Ira
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
Have you ever de-scaled it. 5 or 10 seconds of cold water shouldn't
be able to kill the steam pressure. Can you just watch it drop when
the pump starts pumping? If you turn off the machine so the pump does
not turn on can you steam OK?
Ira
--~--~-~--~~~-
a 3 way valve so switching between the wall and a
bottle is just flipping a lever.
Ira
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"Brewtus" group.
To post to this group, send email to brewtus@googl
At 06:43 AM 7/24/2009, you wrote:
I imagine Ira will chime in on
how to open that part up and see what's
gotten in there, but I would stop using the machine in the
meantime. At
least be very careful and crack the PF open slowly to let off
pressure
slowly.
Wow, I'm getting a reputa
u've a meter but aren't quite sure
what to do, send me a private email with your phone and I'll try to
help you figure it out.
Ira
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"Brewtus"
At 11:49 AM 7/24/2009, you wrote:
>I'll check the compendium
>Really appreciate your help,
Or if you're in Southern California, you can bring it by and I'll help.
Ira
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this message because you are sub
"We guarantee this coffee was roasted within
the last 90 days" which probably gives it between a 0 and 1% chance
of actually being fresh.
Ira
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"Br
nsor failure. Check the little
black wire between the controller and the brew biller for problems.
Ira
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"Brewtus" group.
To post to this group,
At 12:19 PM 8/3/2009, you wrote:
>Any guess what resistance range the temp sensor should indicate on a
>DVM at room temp? I'll check the wire and the sensor when I get home
>from work.
Don't recall, but my spare, Barry's old one, has a 1K pot hooked to
it from when I was testing it to see if i
At 10:35 AM 8/3/2009, you wrote:
Hey Todd, do you think in the future you could strip some of the headers
from your reply, the wy you do it make them really messy to
read.
Thanks, Ira
Todd Salzman
WholeLatteLove
-Original Message-
From: "orianm42" [combs@gmail.com]
D
At 01:16 PM 8/3/2009, you wrote:
That's way better, Thanks
Ira
>Got it,
>
>Is this better?
>
>Thanks for telling me, I had no idea.
>
>
>Todd
>
>
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this message because you are subscribed to
At 01:40 PM 8/3/2009, you wrote:
>Think it depends on your email client Ira –
>Todd’s messages were arriving perfectly
>readable, with the original msg (and headers) as an attachment…
>
>Cheers
>
It might be, some of live in the dark ages and we
see everything. It was easy f
At 03:08 PM 8/3/2009, you wrote:
>As I remember the resistance should be infinite. If there is a short
>it will show a reading.
Infinite to ground, not infinite between the ends.
Ira
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this message because you are subs
t ought to
be pretty easy to trace the voltage through the 4 or 5 switches and
relays that make up the path to the brew heater.
Ira
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"Brewtus" group.
To
At 11:12 AM 8/14/2009, you wrote:
>What is the white
>substance?
I expect the white stuff is heat sink goo, so the sensor is in good
thermal contact with the inside of the tube.
Ira
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this message because you are subscri
At 08:43 AM 8/16/2009, you wrote:
>--Is there a 7 or 7.5mm gasket available out there?
There are thinner ones, I have an 8 in mine I think.
Ira
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"Brewtus&qu
most important difference is it comes set up for
cold and you have to change it to oven use, easy if you read the
chart. The other nice change is it correctly shows overshoot and may
allow you to improve your shot quality as if you pay attention you'll
have a better idea of the actual boile
he front of the group.
Ira
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Brewtus" group. To post to this group, send email to brewtus@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to brewtus+uns
At 10:53 AM 9/3/2009, you wrote:
>E1 is sensor error. Recheck your connections.Are all the wires
>tight? Are they in the right ports? Is the probe seated correctly in
>the boiler? Were any of the connecting wires burnt? Ira is usually
>very good at trouble shooting this problem.
for protection. Now plug
the machine in and turn it on, what happens?
Ira
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"Brewtus" group.
To post to this group, send email to brewtus@googlegroups.com
To
and I'll see what I can do.
Ira
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"Brewtus" group.
To post to this group, send email to brewtus@googlegroups.com
To unsubscribe from this
n returns
back to 89 where the light turns on and the cycle starts again. If it
seems to work right at 90 than assume all is well and adjust the
temperature using the up and down buttons till it's what you want.
Ira
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received th
welcome. Everyone I help makes me a bit better at
understanding my own machine.
Ira
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"Brewtus" group.
To post to this group, send email to brewtus@googl
At 12:29 AM 9/6/2009, you wrote:
Why what?
>why?
>
>On Sep 4, 2:41 pm, Ira wrote:
> > At 01:08 PM 9/4/2009, you wrote:
> >
>> > >Given I sunk a lot into if
>> > >for the initial purchase, perhaps I should re-consider. Regardless, I
>> >
27;re sharing information with
others, otherwise, you adjust the temperature till the coffee tastes
best and that's where it belongs.
Ira
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"Brewtus" group.
At 07:38 AM 10/1/2009, you wrote:
>Is there a link at Whole Latte Love that describes the kit?
>I seached the site and did not find anything.
Well, when it first came out we asked and Todd or someone at WLL
promised it was in the works and we'd be the first to know. Guess he fo
if you care enough I have that message saved somewhere.
Ira
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"Brewtus" group.
To post to this group, send email to brewtus@googlegroups.com
To unsubscribe from this
to want to fill the steam boiler
instead but I'd guess you know what that sounds like.
Ira
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"Brewtus" group.
To post to this group, send email to b
te in place.
The original Brewtus version hid all that from us, this one actually
tells you what's going on so you're just seeing what was always happening.
Ira
--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Group
eally know what to look for in a replacement thermistor.
>Anyone have a suggestion
If you can measure the resistance of the temp probe at a 2 known
temperatures you ought to be able to answer the question.
Ira
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
&qu
ts should answer the question. it would help a lot
if you could get wires on them. If you're near Los Angeles, I'll be happy
to have a look and try to fix it, I'm pretty good with a soldering iron
and I work on surface mount stuff all the time.
http://www.ussensor.com/prod_inter_std
r it is the mushroom. Take it out and clean off all the loose
chrome. Likely that's the problem and it's not really a problem. it
will take care of itself in time if you do nothing.
Unless of course it's something else! I've never had the problem but
a search on HP shoul
chrome flakes make it through
the coffee into your cup and I doubt chrome is a health issue.
Ira
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"Brewtus" group.
To post to this group, send email to brew...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from thi
wand should come from the wand or the valve.
Ira
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"Brewtus" group.
To post to this group, send email to brew...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
brewtus+unsubscr...@googlegroup
At 11:02 AM 3/3/2010, you wrote:
I apologize that I mis-typed the issue somewhat. The chrome bits were
coming out of the hot water wand, not the steam wand.
But everything I said is still true. Steam comes from the top of the
steam boiler and hot water from the bottom.
Every day when you sh
asonably manage to put in including the
tubes to the steam and water valves. I'm sure I could do better if I
tried, but it's much better than it was stock. I also made a cozy
for the group so it uses less electricity when turned on.
With either element on it uses about 1000 watts
At 08:30 AM 5/10/2010, you wrote:
KWH per minute???
Good point!
Ira
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"Brewtus" group.
To post to this group, send email to brew...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
brewtu
At 03:23 PM 5/17/2010, you wrote:
If this is true then the HX
holes have to be pluged when using the boiler as the brew boiler. Is
this correct?
Why would they have to be plugged?
Ira
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"Brewtus" group.
At 05:13 AM 8/16/2010, you wrote:
Any suggestions on where I begin my search for a way to fix this
problem ?
Do you have the compendium? Do you have a voltmeter and are you
comfortable using it around live 117V?
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"
mp.
If I wanted to solve that problem I'd put in a switch that lied to
the controller about the temperature. Flip so you can press start and
then flip it back and you should be good.
Ira
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"Brewtus" gr
that and be
opened/closed to mimic the other part?
Not having a HotTop I couldn't say, Figure out what type the sensor
is and then it's easy to solve the problem.
Ira
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"Brewtus" group.
To post
a
switch that makes it think it's 100 will allow back to back batches
without cooling it all the way to 160.
Ira
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"Brewtus" group.
To post to this group, send email to brew...@googlegroups.com.
To un
ularly critical exactly where it turns on.
Ira
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"Brewtus" group.
To post to this group, send email to brew...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
brewtus+unsubscr...@googlegro
emory serves me correct it
should be set so the steam boiler gauge reads 1.2 to 1.4 bar.
Ira
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"Brewtus" group.
To post to this group, send email to brew...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group
the electronics that a timer might have
a detrimental effect but, it shouldn't if it's designed right.
Ira
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"Brewtus" group.
To post to this group, send email to brew...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubsc
1 - 100 of 343 matches
Mail list logo
