FWIW it looks like it's almost done. If you're looking for a shortcut to a
K2 this could be your ticket.
Craig
NZ0R
K1 #1966
K2/100 #4941
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Steve Jackson
Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 11:18 PM
To:
I have a MicroKEYER that I use with my K2 and I seem to recall hearing that
noise when I was running it using my laptop but I don't get the noise when I
use my desktop PC.
Craig
NZ0R
K1 #1966
K2/100 #4941
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
How about landing long on a short runway? 6000 lbs of metal and fuel
screaming down the last half of the runway at 100+ MPH on top of a few
square inches of burning rubber, then melting rims; off the end and into the
dirt. Airport closed briefly. Took off two days later with a lighter wallet
and
Wonder if Elecraft has considered a rig Registry page on their site.
http://www.zerobeat.net/qrp/k2data.html
Craig
NZ0R
K1 #1966
K2/100 #4941
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Take a look at the pictures at my Web site and see if that helps:
http://www.craigr.com/coppermine/thumbnails.php?album=32
There's one picture for each page in the manual, generally taken at the end
of the tasks for that page. The one for page 39 looks like it might help.
Craig
NZ0R
K1 #1966
Points are then miles/kilometers per watt.
One could also fool with idea of the points being:
(distance * (PowerOtherStation + PowerMyStation) / 2)
Hmmm Good idea. But I'm thinking distance propogated by the signal, not
earth-surface distance. And you'd want to adjust for the effects
I'm looking for a small commercially available power supply suitable for
a
K2.
I use an Alinco DM-330MV and it works fine. It handles the KPA100 and KAT100
and my microHAM microKEYER. I don't see any voltage drop when I key it at
full power.
There are several others that will do the job. As
Here's the original message:
Hi
The metal shaft pot part number for the K1 is 652-3540S-1-104 from Mouser
Electronics. The last time I ordered some they were about $13 plus shipping.
When mounting do not use the plastic washer that came with the K1 pot. Use a
nut then the star washer then the
On all of those I assume it's because their receiver isn't as good as my K2.
It's the Elecraft curse: You can often hear people who can't hear you.
In fact, bad receivers account for about half the things on the top-10 list.
Craig
NZ0R
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
I am a newcomer to all of this, and I am wondering if there is any place
left in contesting for those of us who choose not to have a computer send
code or receive code
Actually I was daydreaming about the opposite and was wondering if anyone is
working on this: There's no reason a program
Just wrapped up my first CW SS in about 25 years, and the first one with my
K2/100.
The only problem I ran into was after a while WriteLog would say No Rig!
and lose its ability to pick up frequency and mode from the K2. I had it
connected through a microHam microKeyer. When it lost contact it
This thread is getting repetitive (price being the main objection) but for
the purpose of improving future Elecraft designs its worth noting that
embedding a PC is a Bad Thing. For one thing, the 1GHz PC in the Sienna is
already obsolete due to the lengthy design and manufacturing time associated
I actually looked at this seriously but then I read this:
o Easy construction - PC, transmitter, tuner/filter, stereo audio amp and
controller are all preassembled and tested. You build the receiver and IF
filter boards, DC power distribution board and front panel board, assemble
the chassis and
Unless there's an amplifier on that list somewhere, I've done bought all the
Elecraft gear I want. Santa's going to have to look somewhere else. :-)
Craig
NZ0R
K1 #1966
K2/100 #4941
At the end, there's a product check-list with prices discretely
removed. We must have been busy over the past
Most of my CW work is contests. I don't have time to adjust the level. Most
of the time I can hear that the two tones are the same frequency. But
sometimes my ear tricks me and I'm off by some happy sounding interval, like
a whole octave or a fifth or a third. All I was saying in my post is that
Maybe I need one of those LED Tuners
I've been reading about. What am I doing wrong??
Others have made good comments about how to use SPOT. Lately I've been
running my audio into my laptop and running CWGet. It has a nice little
spectrum display where the CW signals show up as sharp peaks on
The KAT100 is a quick build and needs the I/O with the KPA100 for testing.
Do the KPA100 first. Once that's done and tested the KAT100 will go quickly.
Craig
NZ0R
K1 #1966
K2/100 #4941
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Craig Miller
Sent:
Your multi-dipole will be more efficient on 80 meters, and can be fed
directly with coax and no tuner. If I were in your shoes, I would leave
well enough alone unless there is some other overriding reason to change
it.
FWIW I had a multi-band trap dipole from Spi-Ro that worked OK but was
However, communication in the opposite direction is nonexistent;
that is, following the procedure on page 14 to issue the Test
Message from the K2 causes no response on Hyperterminal.
If you're connecting to your computer via a serial-to-USB adapter, I've
found from comments I've read
I've always thought that the simple bubble algorithm was amazing.
I don't understand the ins and outs of tuner algorithms, but I've always
thought it was a shame that the first sort we teach people in Computer
Programming 101 is the Bubble Sort. It's horribly inefficient (sort times
are
I would not let him build one because he begs entirely to much makes me
wonder what he is up to.
I joined the list about eight months ago and he was advertising 90+ at that
time so he's not wanting for work.
Whether the messages are posted too frequently or not is up to Eric to
decide. This is
Well, someone else said the quote was taken out of context, though
nobody has provided the context so I don't understand the basis for
that claim.
Furthermore, I spent several minutes searching for a retraction or apology
on the Motorola site and across the Internet and found no reference to
The longer we hold onto this myth, the more likely we are going to be
found out by those who regulate ham radio. We need leaders who can
help shape ham radio to fit the current reality, not bemoan the dirth
of skilled CW operators as a problem.
This all wraps around to dropping the Morse
I submit that the reason virtually ALL emergency nets are phone is that
CW requires a skill few Hams have today: even routine CW ops.
In the Ham world, using phone means that more operators are available
everywhere, so there are likely more operators available any time and
in any place
As a new guy, Tom, I was surprised to discover that despite poor
band conditions, the hurricane emergency nets are all using phone.
? Does the availability of power make the difference?
On a related note, I've monitored several of the nets on 40M and 75M each
night this week and I've yet to
Since this is copyrighted material why don't you do the simple and right
thing and ask the station for permission to use it? If they agree they can
send you the clip in a format you can use. If they don't agree then you
shouldn't use it anyway.
Craig
NZ0R
K1 #1966
K2/100 #4941
- Original
a copy.
Bob
- Original Message -
From: Craig Rairdin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, September 02, 2005 6:18 AM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] RE: K2 Featured in Hurricane News Coverage
Since this is copyrighted material why don't you do the simple and right
thing
Are there any novel and compelling reasons for keeping the
code test?
Since we seem to be opening this topic again, let me repeat something I said
before: The written tests (at least the Extra Class exam) already require
knowledge of the fine details of certain modes, such as the level of
Well I have ordered a second k2. my first k2 got hit with lightning
so now I get to repair the first but the insurance is paying for
another cause I don't know if the first is repairable.
I'm curious if insurance covered any cost of building or did they just cover
the cost of the kit? Was
:
- Original Message -
From: Craig Rairdin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[chop]
I'm not a long-haired, dope-smoking, free-software hippie so if I have to
spend some money for good software I don't mind. (As a professional
programmer I've never understood why the product of my hard work should
Finished the KPA100 and installed it in the K2 and I must say I'm
disappointed with the audio quality. It sounds like I'm overdriving the
speaker but the volume isn't near what it was with the original speaker. Is
this normal for the K2? If not, any suggestions on how to make it sound
better?
Thanks to everyone who replied publicly and privately to this request. I got
several good suggestions. None are exactly what I'm looking for but I have a
lot of good resources to draw from now.
Craig
NZ0R
In message [EMAIL PROTECTED], Craig Rairdin
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes
We teach our kids
I picked up a Waters 334 1KW dummy load and wattmeter on eBay last week for
about $100. It appears to work OK -- output from the K2 is about what I'd
expect.
I don't have any other test equipment to speak of short of a DMM. Is there a
way to calibrate this wattmeter without buying another
C1 is a regular old brown 103 cap. It's not axial at least as I
understand the word.
It's always possible I'm looking at the wrong part or I got it wrong, too.
But I remember being stumped at the same point you are until I found this
particular capacitor. I think it was in the same envelope with
We teach our kids at home and I'm looking for an electronics curriculum to
use for science this year. The boys are 11 and 13 years old.
I'd like something that covers the basics of electricity and electronics
that includes some simple projects. In the end I'd like them to be able to
take the
I could never understand those Canadian fists anyway, what with the accent
and all. ;-)
Craig
NZ0R
K1 #1966
K2 #4941
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Code has been an artificial barrier to entry for a long time. I fought every
attempt to reduce or eliminate code. In the end, the joke was on me. Reducing
it didn't hurt ham radio, and eliminating it will most likely help. Not to
swell our
ranks, but to bring in quality people who will
I sympathize with you, and certainly welcome your contributions to the hobby
and to your local emergency services organizations (as if my welcome were
necessary or even important).
On the other hand, there are concepts on the written test that seemed like
garbage to me no matter how much I
I read the entire NPRM. They make their case well, but they ignore some
logical extensions of their arguments.
If the telegraphy requirement is defined simply as demonstrating basic
ability in one mode of communication and is therefore unnecessary becase
skill in other modes is not required, then
Like it or not, we are seeing another transition in kit building. Just
as some of us witnessed the transition from tubes to transistors, we
are now seeing the beginning of the transition from parts with leads
to SMT. I would guess that in ten years or so it will be
increasingly difficult
The worse part of building any kit to me is those stinking nasty
torroids, I hate them with a passion.
:-) I've found for the K2 and KPA100 I do the torroids while I'm waiting for
some other time-consuming task. I just got to the page in the KPA100 manual
where you do like 12 torroids all at
I just picked up an assembled KAT2 from a fellow Elecrafter and note that
it's a couple revs behind the current version. I browsed around the Elecraft
site but couldn't find anything that would succinctly tell me what, if
anything, I would need to do to bring this unit up to the current version.
You should think about supplemental oxygen. You should be OK up to 12,000 ft
or so. If you're experiencing symptoms of hypoxia at altitudes less than
that, some extra 02 would be a good idea.
Craig
NZ0R
K1 #1966
K2 #4941
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL
I have both a K1 and K2, though I have very little experience with the K2,
having just finished it in the last couple weeks.
One of the issues I'd be thinking about is the difficulty of swapping filter
boards. If you buy a 4-band K1 you can't get 80M or 160M on it. So if you
want those bands
Seems like unsoldered pins are a popular problem these days.
One of the things I do to avoid this is count as I solder. I expect an 8-pin
IC to have 8 pins to solder so I count them off as I do them. If I stick 14
resistors in, I expect 28 solder joints when I flip the board over. In the
case of
I see no need to count. For all long lead components,
I soldered lots of them in before trimming the leads.
When I started to trim them, I checked if I had soldered
before snipping - caught a few that way.
That works too, and I check as a trim the leads also. This counting
technique is most
I'm in the process of building a K2/100 with the 100W ATU. I have the K2
done but can't use it on all bands on my crappy antenna without an antenna
tuner. If I build the 100W ATU next I have to buy the KIO2, which I won't
need after I have the KPA100 done. SO if anyone wants to get rid of a
Well, rats. My K2, with antenna tuner, got hit by a nearby lightening
strike. It still works ok, but it's deaf. Where do I start
looking for the zap?
Turn it into your insurance company and buy a new one. Make sure to include
the value of your building time in the price you give them.
Craig
PM, Craig Rairdin wrote:
Well, rats. My K2, with antenna tuner, got hit by a nearby
lightening
strike. It still works ok, but it's deaf. Where do I start
looking for the zap?
Turn it into your insurance company and buy a new one. Make sure to
include
the value of your building time
I promised myself I wouldn't add to the noise with daily updates on the
progress of K2 #4941, but after going through Alignment Part II I had to
write to commend Elecraft on their fine work. It's pretty amazing after
making hundreds of solder connections, including some truly tricky stuff
with
As I described in a previous posting, I identified
every part by doing an inventory and placed parts
in a drawer system and marked the corresponding
drawer in the parts list. The time taken doing
this is probably recovered by knowing where
everything is ...
I did that for my K1. When I
How can 'missing' parts be found if everything has been
identified, checked off and catalogued?
Not sure I understand your question. Obviously, everything wasn't found at
the time they were inventoried. Some parts were noted as missing during the
inventory, then found later.
I don't remember
I have built fourteen K2's, four K1's
and four KX1's and have found only one component missing.
Oh and also I
have built a slew of options and never found a part missing.
...
It only takes about an hour to do the inventory and it is
well worth the time spent.
Seems like you contradict
You only have to report callsigns on each band. So if you really want to
compact it, drop time and exchg, don't mix bands on one page, and record
only callsigns. IOW, a well-designed dupe sheet is sufficient.
Craig
NZ0R aka N0MA for the weekend
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
I agree the information is hard to find. The Web site assumes you came there
because you already know what the product is. However, I found good
information in the online manual, which I'll quote here:
Introduction
Every Elecraft K2 internal option kit includes some parts that need to be
I don't mind awfully much when someone uses QRM or QRN on
phone
Since we're griping and slightly off topic, here's one I ran into over the
weekend:
A lot of people send R (for received) as dit, dah dit, dit, dah dit --
with a gap after the first dit. In the VHF QSO contest, when I'm expecting
I think the same is true for the use of Q-signals on phone.
Instead of saying, There's a lot of QRN today, I think it
makes more sense to simply say, The band is noisy today?
It's simpler to say, and the receiving operator is less
likely to hear QRM instead of QRN. In the end, your
Mixing units is not always benign.
September 1999: NASA lost a $125 million Mars orbiter because a
Lockheed Martin engineering team used English units of measurement
while the agency's team used the more conventional metric system for
a key spacecraft operation.
I would argue this
I bought both a 4-band and 2-band filter board for my K1. I built the 4-band
board for 40, 30, 20, and 15 meters.
I have parts to make the 2-band board either 80/17 or 80/15. I've also
considered the 160/80 option. That's not what's bothering me. Here's the
question:
What's really going to be
My 20 or so QSOs aren't going to take me very far up the results column but
I did contact a very patient Brazilian station with the K1 by shooting 5
watts out of the end of my multiband dipole on 20M. While it's frustrating
to be able to hear stations I can't talk to thanks to the excellent
Ah, but I love the retro look of all those knobby screws. Truly a
work of art.
Then why aren't they all knobby?
While the Elecraft radios are very sharp looking compared to other kits,
they look like kits compared to commercially built radios. I'm not
complaining; just saying they're far
I asked if #5000 was available when I bought #4941 at Dayton and the lady
helping me actually went to the stack of K2 boxes and looked to see if it
was there. I got the impression she would have handed it me if it had been
there. She said she didn't see it. It's possible it's not that big of a
It would appear that Yahoo has a Group Snoop feature that may affect you
if you're a member of their groups.
you can read about it at the following URL which doesn't filter content:
http://www.zerobeat.net/webbeacons.shtml
Thanks to Thom for the heads up on this. I guess you can't blame
Like many of you I go to a lot of trade shows for my business, both as an
attendee and as an exhibitor. With this experience in my background I have
to say I was surprised and pleased to see both Eric and Wayne in the
Elecraft booth every time I walked by. I probably visited the booth 10 times
No formal announcement of which I'm aware. There are pictures of a prototype,
which others have seen and reported. There may be more info tomorrow.
One side effect of hanging around the Elecraft booth: K2 #4491 is in the bag
ready for the trip home, where it will join K1 #1966.
The K1 will be
I posted this last Friday when it was fresh but it got rejected due to size
and I just got the bounce message today. Here it is again for those who
care:
I spend a lot of time tapping out text on my cell phone using T9 or
multitap input methods (the latter being where you press 2 once to get A,
At the risk of inviting hundreds of exhibitors to post ads here on the list,
I'm wondering if it would be possible to get any of you who happen to be
exhibiting anything that we might be interested in at Hamvention to post a
brief description so those of us who are going to be there can make sure
Thanks to all who have responded to the Handedness survey (49) so
far.
Out of 49 respondents, and a world average of 10% left-handers (that
would be 4.9%), it seems my friend might have been right. Either
the fraction of hams who are sort of to really left-handed is
larger than 10%, or
Okay, so is it really time to upgrade my from my C64?
Just kidding.
Actually, if you had a C64 your timing problems would be solved. I wrote a
CW send/receive program for Atari back in the 80's and it worked great.
(6502 processor, same as your Commodore 64.)
The problem (if it exists --
Every time I see a picture of that OptiVisor head vise torture device I
cringe.
If you're wearing reading glasses for close-up work already then for the
same price this is a significantly better solution:
http://www.wassco.com/mag.html. They're made by Bausch Lomb, they're very
high-quality,
Since my LASIK, my close up vision has tanked, and before I tackle the K2
I need a really good swing arm magnifier
Skip the fourescent and go for a daylight spectrum bulb in an articulating
arm lamp. I use clip on magnifying lenses that clip to my reading glasses.
For most a lot of the
As for the radio being in a kit form, that is actually a HUGE selling
point, regardless of the time and effort required to build it since
all hams that I have met so far would really love to be able to build
their radios instead of buying a ready made appliance, provided that
the result
Anything over $1500/US and I'm afraid I will have to count myself out.
Wonder what others think?
My other hobby is flying my Beech Baron light twin airplane. The numbers you
guys are tossing around sound like cheap entertainment by comparison. :-)
Craig
Is there a specific reason why some of you folks don't have your email
software adding the quote characters
For the vast majority of my email, especially business correspondence, I
prefer to keep the entire conversation intact. It's only on mailing lists
like this one where one has to be
I know this has been discussed on the reflector, but I can't find it in
the archives after a bit of searching. I have the RS equivalent of the
Koss Ear Plugs which work great on my KX1 for an old guy who can't hear
any more. However, I can't get them into my ears so they'll stay for
any
Eric posted the instructions to subscribe and unsubscribe just a few
days ago.
Yes, but did he post the instructions to unSUNscribe? I think that's where
the confusion lies.
Craig
NZ0R
K1 #1966
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Post to:
In any case, whenever anyone gets incorrectly rejected as SPAM by the list
server, just email a copy to [EMAIL PROTECTED] with a short
note
and we will post it for you.
Not to belabor the point but we should be happy that the list tells you your
post is spammy so you have a chance to try
I don't have the temperament to sit down at a bench and build an
electronic device
In addition, I like the idea of supporting the traditions of ham radio
by patronizing kit makers and kit builders, rather than appliance
manufacturers.
Let me offer the advice you didn't ask for, since
The jumper on P3 should be in the KAT1 position when the KAT1 is in use.
This is in the errata for page 7 of the KAT1 instructions.
Craig
K1 #1966
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Robert Conley
Sent: Thursday, March 24, 2005 10:36 AM
To:
We are pretty well down to the wire on the rooms.
There are still rooms available at the QRP-ARCI/FISTS
hotel - the Holiday Inn / Homewood Suites in Fairborn,
east of downtown Dayton.
The room information is
http://www.usol.com/~k8dd/rooms/rooms.htm
There are a few more rooms than the
In building the base kit I experienced only 3 problems:
The third problem was that I mis-identified two diodes and
inadvertantly swapped them.
My best investment was a pair of clip-on magnifying lenses that I clip on my
reading glasses when I'm building. Some of those diodes are tiny and
One good source is eBay.
K2 #568 with KSB2, K160RX, KAT2, KIO2, KBT2, and KNB2 and firmare 2.01 went
for $650. The auction ended early because the buyer took advantage of the
seller's buy it now price. It probably could have sold for more given that
it sold in less than a day at that price.
K2
I'm going to order a K2 but am trying to spread the cost out over some
period of time. Is there any advantage to ordering the K2 and the KPA100 at
the same time? That is, am I going to run into places in the instructions
for building the K2 where it would be advantageous to have the KPA100 kit
The only antennas I have experience with are dipoles and commercial
multi-band verticals. When I built my K1 I took the manual at its word and
strung 30' of hookup wire around the room and shoved one end in the antenna
socket and got 1.2:1 or better on all bands with the ATU. So I got ambitious
I just made an alteration to my K2/100 that I have been contemplating
for a while. I removed the top and side panels, then countersunk the
screw holes. ... I have to wonder why Elecraft used flathead screws
on the top and side surfaces of the K1, and didn't on the K2?
Having just completed
I just finished K1 #1966. I hadn't touched a soldering gun since about 1972
when I built a Heathkit HW 16. The K1 took me just under 30 hours with the
4-band filter board and the ATU. I'm contemplating building a K2 (I'm
finding building is addictive -- they should call it Ele-crack) and I'm
okay I am a bit naive here but why would anyone need two k2s?
Put one under each of the front legs of your chair to allow you to recline
while operating your third K2? :-)
Craig
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You must be
I need some recommendations on a soldering
station and also approx cost if you know it.
I'm having good luck with the Hakko 936 I bought from www.wassco.com for
$88.50.
Read the recommendations scattered throughout the Elecraft site (Builder
Resources has several articles) and you'll find
Just spent my first hour with my K1 kit. Here's what I'm missing so
far:
2 - Thermal insulator, TO220; for Q6, Q7 (RF BOARD)
1 - Acrylic display bezel; for LCD (Front Panel)
Found these in the envelope marked Serial Number Kit. That could have been
identified better. :-)
1- 2N7000
Just spent my first hour with my K1 kit. Here's what I'm missing so far:
2 - Thermal insulator, TO220; for Q6, Q7 (RF BOARD)
1 - Acrylic display bezel; for LCD (Front Panel)
1- 2N7000 transistor, TO-92 plastic
I have two extra resistors.
That's just the Packing Box Parts List and the Front
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