Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 problems in K2 transceiver
Mark, When you have the problem, look at the voltage at P1 pin 6 (that is VRFDET signal)? If that is high, the MCU will limit power drastically. Make sure Q1 is properly oriented. If that does not help, try a mod to the KSB2 - reduce R9 to 1.5k and cut the trace between P1 pin 6 and the base of Q1 (on the top of the board) and insert a 1k resistor across the trace cut. That will calm ALC problems with the KSB2, and otherwise will do no harm. 73, Don W3FPR On 5/8/2021 1:44 PM, M Bak wrote: Today I finished the KSB2 adapter and installed it into my K2. It worked first time but was intermittent. I found the issue as I had omitted to solder the outer top pins of the twin three pin interconnects. That done everything seems ok and then No Apparent RF output. USB/LSB/CW Pressing TUNE produced a max of 0.8W. VOX would trip to transmit but the S meter showed no modulation. Coarse carrier balance adjustment worked but zero S meter readings was very wide (unlike earlier when it was a fine, narrow adjustment) All voltages looked slightly low but ball park on the KSB2 board except for U2 (the DAC) Pin5 which is ALC THR. This was sitting at 5.89v rather than 0.6 on both RX and TX. I have removed the KSB2 and full CW power output can now be achieved which is a relief. I will examine everything under a microscope again but has anyone any suggestions? I suspect ALC to be the culprit but how to investigate? Thanks Mark G4RUR __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 problems in K2 transceiver
Mark, Pin 5 of U2 provides ALC threshold voltage to the emitter of Q1 on the KSB2 board. The 5.89 V you measured on Pin 5 suggests that the DAC input register B didn't properly load the data word from the MCU. I would check the solder joints on all U2 pins and Pins 14, 16 and 17 of the MCU socket. 73, Mike, K8CN -- Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 Problem Continued
Gareth, Yes, 100mV audio should be adequate to drive the KSB2. Do you have the K2 wired to use an Elecraft or Icom microphone? If so, try lifting the bias resistor to see if the DC bias is interfering with the output level of your audio generator - instead of lifting the bias resistor, you could put a capacitor (1 to 10uF) between the signal generator and the K2 mic input. I need to know which KSB2 board you have installed (there are 3 different ones and you can only tell me what I need to know by physical inspection of KSB2 U3. First, is this a new KSB2 board (purchased within the last year) or is it the older type with an SM2165 at U3? Is U3 an SMD component or is it a thru-hole device? Your first check should be to measure the DC voltages to KSB2 U3 - they should agree with the voltages listed in the KSB2 manual. If the voltages are not within reasonable agreement with the chart, then U3 is your problem. Did your KSB2 board work properly in the past? If so, something has failed and the challenge is to find it. OTOH, if this is a newly built board that has never worked before, check all the components for proper values and placement and check all diodes for proper orientation. If all else fails, do you have access to an oscilloscope with a 10x probe? If so, I can give you some typical AC voltage values at given points along the signal path to isolate the problem to a particular stage. 73, Don W3FPR On 1/15/2015 2:07 PM, Gareth - M5KVK wrote: K2 S/N 03885 Symptoms: low power and no ALC action when on SSB. CW With E= 13.0V on the K2 display, if I transmit CW into a dummy load PWR=10 gets me 10W according to my un-calibrated power meter and draws 2.3A (40m). SSB If I inject 1kHz sinewave into the Mic socket, for 100mV pp i/p I see about 6W out. Current varies between 1.9 and 2.2A and E comes down to 12.5 under load. Interestingly, there's zero action on the bargraph in ALC mode. Needing 100mV to get 60% of set power seems high. I thought I should get 100% with 50mV. Even with 1.6V pp i/p, I only see 8W o/p __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 Problem with Assembly
Fred, Look carefully, that new manual does not match your KSB2. Yours has an SSM2165 Speech Compressor and the new one uses an SSM2166 - the added resistors support that new IC. As far as the extra 10k resistor, one is supplied with every KSB2 for use as a bias resistor if needed. It is listed in the parts list as a component on the front panel. 73, Don W3FPR On 8/1/2012 3:30 PM, KC9QQ wrote: I am currently in the process of assembly a KSB2 (REV E KSB2 PC Board) which I purchased with my K2 in November 2011. I am currently completing the installation of the resistors on the back side of the board. After I completed installing the resistors I noticed that I had an extra 10K resistor. I then checked my inventory and it showed that I had inventoried 3 10K resistors versus the 2 called for in inventory sheet. Just to be safe I downloaded the latest manual and compared it to my manual. It lists an additional four resistors on the back of the board (R21, R22, R23 and R24). I have two questions: 1. Should I be concerned that these resistors are not on the Rev E board? 2. What is the purpose of the additional resistors? __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up --
Just a tail end to what was said about Edsyn. They charge a monumental sum for shipping, BUT they send orders in pre-packs by the most economical method and then they refund the difference back onto your card. They say it's due to a very old website Sorry I didn't mention it before and I hope no-one had a coronary when they saw the cost come up. 73 Dave G3TJP __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up
Hi TJ, It will be very interesting to see the other answers/recommendations. I use a controlled temp soldering iron, a whole lot of rosin and solder wick. And Quick Chip or Cash Olson has a removal kit that is extra nice too. He's the one that has the solder paste, that works so well. Once in a while, it works well to reflow the board, and pick out the bad part, usually when there is no plastic close at all. The key is a temp contolled iron.Have a great day, --... ...-- Dale - WC7S in Wy From: tom.cam...@gmail.com Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2011 07:50:45 -0500 To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up So I accidentally skipped the first page of instructions then found that I had some parts left over at the end of construction and I was missing the header P1 or whatever, so I grabbed the connector and soldered it inonly to find that the previous owner of my K2 had already put the female connector on the main board of the K2, and I had just accidentally installed the female connector on the KSB2 board. Great. Long story short, I ripped out the female connector on the main board as it was much easier to access but it was a huge to get the male header into the holes. It isn't quite seated all the way but it is stable and straight and seems to work OK with the module installed. Question is: how would one actually go about removing one of these headers correctly (I guess I already know the answer: desoldering station) Already have 1 5w SSB qso down with one of the RT 66 stations and sent 1 wspr tx this morning and was spotted several places on the East coast. It works! :D TJ W0EA __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up
you can break or cut the plastic between each pin and desolder or heat each one out individually. just take your time. Even a Hakko 808 may have a problem with so many pins. WT5Y -Original Message- From: TJ Campie Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2011 7:50 AM To: Elecraft Subject: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up So I accidentally skipped the first page of instructions then found that I had some parts left over at the end of construction and I was missing the header P1 or whatever, so I grabbed the connector and soldered it inonly to find that the previous owner of my K2 had already put the female connector on the main board of the K2, and I had just accidentally installed the female connector on the KSB2 board. Great. Long story short, I ripped out the female connector on the main board as it was much easier to access but it was a huge to get the male header into the holes. It isn't quite seated all the way but it is stable and straight and seems to work OK with the module installed. Question is: how would one actually go about removing one of these headers correctly (I guess I already know the answer: desoldering station) Already have 1 5w SSB qso down with one of the RT 66 stations and sent 1 wspr tx this morning and was spotted several places on the East coast. It works! :D TJ W0EA __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up --
Tom... Such things are a pain in the ASCII...and I have made several mistakes of this kinds previously. After fooling around, tearing traces, etc. I have discovered that BY FAR THE BEST way to go about this is to use solder braid. You can buy it in small spools from Radio Shack, or just strip off the cover and core of an old piece of coax. I recommend the former. A desoldering station is not needed! When using the braid, be liberal! Don't try to scrimp and save. The surface tension of melted solder is very high, and capillary action will wick it totally into the braid. Heat the braid over the solder and let it suck up the melt, then move to a new section of braid and repeat. Eventually, you'll clean up quite a bit of solder with a few inches of braid. I know it sounds hokey, but it works VERY well. At the end, there will still probably be a little (tiny!) amount of solder holding one or more pins. With care (and maybe a little help from the XYL or a friend to provide a third hand) you will be able to move one end of the header a bit. From there, it is just a matter of applying a bit of heat at the right places and lifting gently. This same technique works well with DIP packages and with thru-hole components. It is often NOT POSSIBLE to save the component. In the case of DIP devices, you can always cut off the legs to make the removal process easier. In the case of the header you are working on, be careful not to apply so much heat that you melt the plastic around the pins. The secret is patience, NOT lots of heat. Take good care of the traces on the circuit board. A tiny drill-bit can be used to clear remaining solder out of the holes, BUT BE CAREFUL not to cut away the actual hole plating, as this may break a needed connection between the top and bottom layers of the PC board. I use a pin vise for this kind of operation, not a Dremel or other power device. On 9/13/2011 8:50 AM, TJ Campie wrote: ...how would one actually go about removing one of these headers correctly? -- Sent from my lovely old Dell XPS 420 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up
Tom, It won't help you with that task right now since you have already done the deed, but the process is easy. For removing the male headers, you can tug on one pin with pliers while heating the solder - that pin will come out - continue while they are all out. For the female headers, the plastic cover can be removed by prying it up a bit at a time starting with a sharp instrument like a knife edge and progressing to a screwdriver tip. Once the cover is off, remove each of the pins one at a time. Ok, the header pins are removed, but you still have solder to clean up so you can put the new part in - use solder wick to remove as much as you can, but there will likely be some left in the holes. I like to use a stainless steel needle - heat the solder pad and push the needle into the hole. If you do not have a stainless steel needle handy, a wooden toothpick will also work in a similar manner. Even though I have a de-soldering station, I often use the needle method to open the holes. It works for me. 73, Don W3FPR On 9/13/2011 8:50 AM, TJ Campie wrote: Question is: how would one actually go about removing one of these headers correctly (I guess I already know the answer: desoldering station) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up --
John, Each to his own choices, but I would NEVER use a drill of any sort in a thru-plated hole Even if the trace is only on one side (particularly on the component side), I would not take the chance. Consider the situation where the PC trace is only on the component side of the board - you would normally solder on the opposite side, but if the thru-plated hole has been damaged, you must be aware that the lead must be soldered on the component side to complete the circuit - that is often difficult if the component is something like an electrolytic capacitor that sits right down on the board and you cannot solder under it. The only cure is to repair the break with point to point wire. 73, Don W3FPR On 9/13/2011 9:18 AM, John Ragle wrote: A tiny drill-bit can be used to clear remaining solder out of the holes, BUT BE CAREFUL not to cut away the actual hole plating, as this may break a needed connection between the top and bottom layers of the PC board. I use a pin vise for this kind of operation, not a Dremel or other power device. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up --
Don: Well, since you put this out to public view, I will answer in public. Please note my admonition to BE CAREFUL, and my suggestion to use a pin vise, not a powered device. There is no need for a complicated set of rules of behavior when common sense will do. If you are so concerned about damaging the grommet, then please note that the SHANK end of a fine circuit-board drill-bit is just as effective as the stainless steel needle you recommend...it also will not be wetted by the melted solder...and is probably infinitely more available than a stainless needle. The dominant part of my advice was to use solder braid early and often, and that a fancy desoldering station is, in the main, unnecessary for the casual repair of a circuit-board blunder. My suspicion is that most people who do HB construction have the necessary tools at hand. My opinion (since we are talking about personal opinions or choices) is that anyone foolish enough to drill out a thru-plated hole probably doesn't know which end of a screwdriver to hammer on anyhow. John Ragle -- W1ZI = On 9/13/2011 11:48 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote: John, Each to his own choices, but I would NEVER use a drill of any sort in a thru-plated hole Even if the trace is only on one side (particularly on the component side), I would not take the chance. Consider the situation where the PC trace is only on the component side of the board - you would normally solder on the opposite side, but if the thru-plated hole has been damaged, you must be aware that the lead must be soldered on the component side to complete the circuit - that is often difficult if the component is something like an electrolytic capacitor that sits right down on the board and you cannot solder under it. The only cure is to repair the break with point to point wire. 73, Don W3FPR On 9/13/2011 9:18 AM, John Ragle wrote: A tiny drill-bit can be used to clear remaining solder out of the holes, BUT BE CAREFUL not to cut away the actual hole plating, as this may break a needed connection between the top and bottom layers of the PC board. I use a pin vise for this kind of operation, not a Dremel or other power device. __ Elecraft mailing list Home:http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help:http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post:mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by:http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list:http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- Sent from my lovely old Dell XPS 420 -- Sent from my lovely old Dell XPS 420 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 with HM-7 mic question
Tom, That microphone has an internal amplifier, and the resistor acts as a collector load resistor. I would guess that anything from the recommended 820 ohms up to about 2k would work, but I can't say for sure since I do not have data on the current drawn by the amplifier from a 5 volt supply. If your microphone works, leave it as-is. If it does not (or results in a distorted signal), then change the resistor when you can get one. 73, Don W3FPR On 9/13/2011 12:22 PM, TJ Campie wrote: Thought of something else I ran into last night - I did not have any 820 Ohm resistors to install on the config connector when wiring up for my Icom HM-7 microphone so I used a 1.1k - what are the effects of using a larger value? Should I try to find/make an 820 Ohm resistor or does it matter? TJ W0EA __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up --
Don, I worked in a large factory where we had a large rework department and I saw a lot of alternative methods for removing connectors and as you said each to his own. I second, your caution to never use a pin vise and drill. The wall thickness is usually less than 0.001. The odds on getting a correctly sized drill are not good. I once had to change a lot of connectors in the field without the assistance of a rework department. Even after removing the pins I still had a lot of solder in the holes. Because the replacement pins were large the holes had to be cleaned out very well. I mounted the board on edge in a Panavise. Then using a 800 degree small conical tip iron pushed straight into the hole on one side for about 5 seconds, I chased the hole from the other side with a short burst of canned air. Cauntion1: Be sure to wear eye protection because the solder can splatter. If it's done right the iron will collect the excess solder. Caution2: Don't use an overly large or small iron and get on and get off the hole quickly. Too much heat will cook the hole out of the board. It's very fast and the hole cleans up well. 73, Fred, AE6QL -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2011 8:49 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up -- John, Each to his own choices, but I would NEVER use a drill of any sort in a thru-plated hole Even if the trace is only on one side (particularly on the component side), I would not take the chance. Consider the situation where the PC trace is only on the component side of the board - you would normally solder on the opposite side, but if the thru-plated hole has been damaged, you must be aware that the lead must be soldered on the component side to complete the circuit - that is often difficult if the component is something like an electrolytic capacitor that sits right down on the board and you cannot solder under it. The only cure is to repair the break with point to point wire. 73, Don W3FPR On 9/13/2011 9:18 AM, John Ragle wrote: A tiny drill-bit can be used to clear remaining solder out of the holes, BUT BE CAREFUL not to cut away the actual hole plating, as this may break a needed connection between the top and bottom layers of the PC board. I use a pin vise for this kind of operation, not a Dremel or other power device. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up
When I built my K1 I actually installed a male connector in the wrong set of holes and was able to successfully remove it without destroying it. I used a large solder sucker (plunger type) and cleared one hole at at time. With a little additional heating and wiggling I was able to pull the header free. I was probably lucky not to have destroyed the board, but it worked. William, AI4VE __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up --
I don't think anyone has mentioned my favorite fix the goof soldering tool, a great big vacuum desoldering pump. I use a Soldapult Deluxe that usually cleans the holes right out, without the foul language that solder braid seems to need. Do the experts prefer solder braid, or is that just where the conversation led? 73, Wayne Conrad KF7QGA __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up --
Wayne, That is just where the conversation led. I would not trade my Hakko 808 for solder braid - but there are times when solder braid is the best answer, use whatever will do the best job. 73, Don W3FPR On 9/13/2011 4:37 PM, Wayne Conrad wrote: I don't think anyone has mentioned my favorite fix the goof soldering tool, a great big vacuum desoldering pump. I use a Soldapult Deluxe that usually cleans the holes right out, without the foul language that solder braid seems to need. Do the experts prefer solder braid, or is that just where the conversation led? __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up --
I have always had great results with the simple Spring loaded solder suckers that you use with your normal iron. There is a bit of technique in using them effectively and it's important to keep the solder sucker well cleaned. In addition to this do ensure it's lubricated once in a while and replace the tip when it gets worn. If using a spring loaded sucker spend some time practising on old PCB boards to perfect your technique before using it on stuff that matters. An added bonus to this practice is that it's an opportunity to add free stock to your junk box. Solder wick has it's place too, one trick with solder wick is to ensure that it's not exposed to the air too much when not in use as this seems to degrade the flux somewhat, so wind excess back into the holder and don't be too stingy about the amount you chop off to start on the next bit of the job. 73 Brendan EI6IZ On Tue, 2011-09-13 at 13:37 -0700, Wayne Conrad wrote: I don't think anyone has mentioned my favorite fix the goof soldering tool, a great big vacuum desoldering pump. I use a Soldapult Deluxe that usually cleans the holes right out, without the foul language that solder braid seems to need. Do the experts prefer solder braid, or is that just where the conversation led? 73, Wayne Conrad KF7QGA __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- 73 Brendan EI6IZ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up --
One must be cautious with the solder suckers... have done extensive tests with static discharge from them, and it is well above most active circuit ability to withstand. In other words... using a solder sucker on today's smt will more than even odds pop the circuit in question.So if the socket being taken out, is in any fashion connected to a junction of any type be very aware that upon power up, that particular junction may not act like it is expected to... but much more like a smoked and toasted junction. --... ...-- Dale - WC7S in Wy From: ei6iz.bren...@gmail.com To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2011 00:12:51 +0100 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up -- I have always had great results with the simple Spring loaded solder suckers that you use with your normal iron. There is a bit of technique in using them effectively and it's important to keep the solder sucker well cleaned. In addition to this do ensure it's lubricated once in a while and replace the tip when it gets worn. If using a spring loaded sucker spend some time practising on old PCB boards to perfect your technique before using it on stuff that matters. An added bonus to this practice is that it's an opportunity to add free stock to your junk box. Solder wick has it's place too, one trick with solder wick is to ensure that it's not exposed to the air too much when not in use as this seems to degrade the flux somewhat, so wind excess back into the holder and don't be too stingy about the amount you chop off to start on the next bit of the job. 73 Brendan EI6IZ On Tue, 2011-09-13 at 13:37 -0700, Wayne Conrad wrote: I don't think anyone has mentioned my favorite fix the goof soldering tool, a great big vacuum desoldering pump. I use a Soldapult Deluxe that usually cleans the holes right out, without the foul language that solder braid seems to need. Do the experts prefer solder braid, or is that just where the conversation led? 73, Wayne Conrad KF7QGA __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- 73 Brendan EI6IZ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up --
I've used the spring type solder sucker for decades and it works well for me. A memorable event in my solder sucking career was the removal of the main right angled multipin connector that had been soldered to the wrong side of a part built K2 RF board. The board was returned to its owner with the same right angled connector soldered on the correct side, allowing construction to continue and to the best of my knowledge, that K2 continues in good health to this day. That was also a mighty tribute to the quality of PCB material that Elecraft specify. Thanks, E. I find that the application of sufficient heat holds the key to a good suck. Sufficient heat is needed to melt the solder on the joint side, through the PTH and on to melt any solder that's gone through to the component side. There's a fine dividing line between sufficient heat and a barbecue, which boils down to experience, lots of practice and is often blessed with a wee bit of luck. I'm currently fitting a K6XX board (thanks, Ron) to a K1 and I didn't like the location shown in the instructions. By moving RP1 and R6 to the other side of the front panel board, a large area is created for the K6XX. There's always a but and in this case, it's the need to separate the front panel PCB from the front panel itself to adjust the detector's audio pitch, but then, it should only need doing once G I have a full size Edsyn Soldapult but find it too big for most requirements, however, Edsyn have a closeout offer on page 7 of their clearance items for a PT509 tool at just $6.99. http://www.edsyn.com/index.php?Mode=prodclear http://www.edsyn.com/index.php?Mode=prodclearpg=7 pg=7 There has to be a catch and it's a $25 minimum order, but if two or three friends combine orders, together with a couple of spare tips on offer at $1.50 each and maybe an O ring or two, that sum is all too easily exceeded. Don't expect Elecraft service from Edsyn. I placed an (overseas) order with them and had to chase it. I tried telephoning, but my North of England-tuned hearing couldn't understand what they were saying. Suffice it to say, the order eventually arrived and I was more than pleased with the smaller device. Chipquik has been mentiond before, but are worthy of another mention, as the Company offer a free sample, which is not to be passed up. Although they focus on SMT technology, there's no reason it can't be used to aid removal of a stubborn pin or two in a multipin device. http://www.chipquik.com/ Much has been said lately about clearing plated through holes as part of a re-work. I find that feeding a bit more fresh solder into a PTH until it is full and then using the solder sucker usually clears the hole extremely well and requires no additional tools. I find solder braid to be a waste of time when clearing holes, but I do use it, after cleaning barbecued flux residue away, to clear solder from flat surfaces, so pads are returned to flatness. If you have a flux pen, run the pen tip over both sides of the unused wick before use. It helps it work even better. 73 Dave G3TJP __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up --
Couldn't afford the vacuum kit I wanted, so I built a low end wantabe tool for my desoldering tasks. I have combined a Radio Shack 45-Watt Desoldering Iron https://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062731 and one of Radio Shack's (popper styled) Vacuum Desoldering Tool https://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062745 I removed the, IMO, useless rubber bulb on the Desoldering Iron and attached a short piece of tubing between where the bulb was removed and the tip of the 'popper' desoldering tool. this way I can apply heat to the location then hit the popper's release hopefully sucking up (most of) the solder residue sometimes I even using the popper as a blower to clear some of the offending solder hold the iron tip in place and push the popper down as though you were going to cock it, but don't complete the stroke to where it catches it's hold position just be sure you don't blow the solder onto another part of a board where you have to remove the mess you just made, don't ask how I know this... Sometimes I have also use the stainless needles as a last resort but be sure the needle is small enough to pass all the way through the hole again with the how do I know this bit. I used a needle a little to fat for the hole and ended up pushing the through hole, through the pcb hole, duh. ymmv GB 73 K5OAI Sam Morgan __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up --
Soldapulit sells an especially marked ESD Safe unit (Mfgr p/n SS750LS). It isn't expensive - somewhere between 9 and 11 USD. Dale is quite right. ESD safety is always something to check on with anything that is brought into contact with modern gear. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- One must be cautious with the solder suckers... have done extensive tests with static discharge from them, and it is well above most active circuit ability to withstand. In other words... using a solder sucker on today's smt will more than even odds pop the circuit in question.So if the socket being taken out, is in any fashion connected to a junction of any type be very aware that upon power up, that particular junction may not act like it is expected to... but much more like a smoked and toasted junction. --... ...-- Dale - WC7S in Wy __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 Resistor Packs
Brendon, I would wager that you purchased the KSB2 about 3 months ago. There was a short period of time when only 1 of those R-Paks was placed in the bag. That problem has been corrected by the kiting quality control. I spotted the problem when I found 2 kits with only one 2.7k R-Pak - one kit could be a one-off packing error, but with two kits, it looked more like a bigger problem. Val checked stock and got things fixed. As I recall, that was about 3 months ago, but I can't recall the exact timing. Contact pa...@elecraft.com and ask for the 2nd 2.7k R-Pak, it should be sent to you promptly. 73, Don W3FPR On 8/18/2011 9:37 PM, vk8fqrp wrote: Good Day All, Going through the inventory for the KSB2. RP1 2 are 8pin 101577083272p however I have only got one of these, the other 8 pin is L83C103. Have things changed or have I been sent an incorrect part? Regards Brendon VK8FQRP -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KSB2-Resistor-Packs-tp6701616p6701616.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 Resistor Packs
Thanks for the reply Don, Will send off an email. Regards Brendon -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KSB2-Resistor-Packs-tp6701616p6701798.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 Question
David, If you are considering the KSB2, I would suggest you install it and the mic jack - it will be ready if you ever decide to try out some digital mode. 73, Don W3FPR On 5/29/2011 3:34 PM, David Dietrich wrote: Hi All! I have subscribed to this list in the past when I was working on my K1-4 a few year back. I just recently broke down and bought a K2 (10 W) s/n 7164. I'm long overdue to get one, but I figured it was now or never. I am planning on using this rig as a CW only QRP radio. I am not even going to install the mic connector. I have some sheet metal I am going to use to cover the holes for the options I did not get. I am mostly a CW only operator (kind of strange for a 34 y/o), but I do like to listen to SSB when I am just messing around in my shack. I was wondering if the KSB2 option would be worthwhile to get, AND does it affect the K2's performance if you don't align it for transmit? Any feedback would be appreciated. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 Question
At 12:34 PM 5/29/2011 -0700, you wrote: Hi All! I have subscribed to this list in the past when I was working on my K1-4 a few year back. I just recently broke down and bought a K2 (10 W) s/n 7164. I'm long overdue to get one, but I figured it was now or never. I am planning on using this rig as a CW only QRP radio. I am not even going to install the mic connector. I have some sheet metal I am going to use to cover the holes for the options I did not get. I am mostly a CW only operator (kind of strange for a 34 y/o), but I do like to listen to SSB when I am just messing around in my shack. I was wondering if the KSB2 option would be worthwhile to get, AND does it affect the K2's performance if you don't align it for transmit? Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks 73, David, KC9EHQ K1-4 s/n 2051 K2 s/n 7164 (starting build soon!) Hi David' Aside from SSB the KSB2 module is required for the DATA mode. I also like CW ... but with low pwr PSK31 is a wonderful mode and personally wouldn't want to do without it. Jim, VE3CI __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 build time?
TJ, If you are doing it for the first time, give yourself 8 to 12 hours for the whole task. As Alan Wilcox has said, use Specrtrogram for alignment, and become familiar with its use beforehand since you have a deadline. The use of Spectrogram 5.17 (and its download) is available from Tom Hammond's website www.n0ss.net. Additional information on the use of Spectrogram is in the K2 Dial Calibration article on my website www.w3fpr.com. Note: if you are running Windows 7, Spectrogram 5.17 will not work - Spectrogram 16 (also freeware) will work fine. If you cannot locate it on-line, drop me a private email and I can send you a Zip file containing it. 73, Don W3FPR On 5/5/2011 1:35 PM, TJ Campie wrote: How long do you think it should take to complete a KSB2 including tuning and such? I plan on getting one at Dayton and would like to have it done in 3 or 4 evenings so I can use it when I do a SOTA activation over memorial day weekend. (which I leave for Thursday night) So figure 4 hours a night? I looked through the manual, it doesnt look like it'd take more than a few hours to assemble. TJ - W0EA __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 build time?
Hi Tom, I'm a slow and methodical constructor and the KSB2 took me 8 hours to build, over 4 nights. What took a bit of time for me was the BFO alignment to optimise TX audio, configuring the filters etc. I found Spectrogram very helpful. I did a lot of monitoring and recording to get the TX audio the way I like it. Because this was my first experience doing this sort of alignment, it took me maybe 4 hours all up until I was happy. It would take very little time the second time round or for someone experienced. There are some good tips in the archives about set up of the K2 after installing the KSB2. I must say that I have several rigs and too many microphones and headsets and I do use outboard audio equalisation on some of them. I also have a K3 with its on-board 8 band EQ. BUT - the rig that attracts the most unsolicited positive comments about TX audio is the little K2/100. People comment great audio - what are you running?! And it's my K2 with the MH2 hand mic. I rarely hear that using my other set-ups and so I wonder why I bother with all the other audio paraphernalia. Enjoy building. John VK7JB -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KSB2-build-time-tp6335019p6336158.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 build time?
TJ, If you've built kits before, you should have plenty of time to get it done. Enjoy the build! You might want to order some toroids from Mychael, The Toroid Guy, ahead of time so you have them ready. Watch that you put the diodes in properly. I always fold the top lead down on all of them before I start putting them in. You'll need Spectrogram for the tuneup. If you haven't used it before, get familiar with it before you get into the last day or so of your available time. You don't need the KSB2 to get in some early practice on your K2. Cheers, Alan Alan D. Wilcox, W3DVX (K2-5373, K3-40) 570-321-1516 http://WilcoxEngineering.com http://eBookEditor.net https://www.smashwords.com/books/view/28062?ref=awilcox Williamsport, PA 17701 On 5/5/11 1:35 PM, TJ Campie wrote: How long do you think it should take to complete a KSB2 including tuning and such? I plan on getting one at Dayton and would like to have it done in 3 or 4 evenings so I can use it when I do a SOTA activation over memorial day weekend. (which I leave for Thursday night) So figure 4 hours a night? I looked through the manual, it doesnt look like it'd take more than a few hours to assemble. TJ - W0EA __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 build time?
Tom, John's comments are right on for the entire process of building, installing and doing the alignment. The building is not a problem, it just depends on your construction methods - if you are a insert one component and then solder it type of builder, it will take you longer than those who stuff a group of components and then solder. As for John's statements about the use of Spectrogram to align the OP1 filter, yes, I highly recommend that method. Put a Spectrogram marker at 300 Hz and adjust the BFO so the approximate -3dB point on the low frequency passband skirt is positioned at 300 Hz, and you will have quite a reasonable filter for both transmit and receive - no need to set up FL2 using OP1 for a separate receive filter as is sometimes suggested - that is only necessary for those having a highly unusual vocal frequency span. I set all K2s that I repair in that manner, and have never received any complaints, but have often received compliments because the on-air audio reports of my customers have been quite positive. 73, Don W3FPR On 5/5/2011 8:58 PM, VK7JB wrote: Hi Tom, I'm a slow and methodical constructor and the KSB2 took me 8 hours to build, over 4 nights. What took a bit of time for me was the BFO alignment to optimise TX audio, configuring the filters etc. I found Spectrogram very helpful. I did a lot of monitoring and recording to get the TX audio the way I like it. Because this was my first experience doing this sort of alignment, it took me maybe 4 hours all up until I was happy. It would take very little time the second time round or for someone experienced. There are some good tips in the archives about set up of the K2 after installing the KSB2. I must say that I have several rigs and too many microphones and headsets and I do use outboard audio equalisation on some of them. I also have a K3 with its on-board 8 band EQ. BUT - the rig that attracts the most unsolicited positive comments about TX audio is the little K2/100. People comment great audio - what are you running?! And it's my K2 with the MH2 hand mic. I rarely hear that using my other set-ups and so I wonder why I bother with all the other audio paraphernalia. Enjoy building. John VK7JB -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KSB2-build-time-tp6335019p6336158.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 Setup issue
Discovered my freq counter probe is intermittent, trying to fix, but ordered a new one from elecraft just in case, guess i'll have to shelve the k2 until the new one arrives. Matt W8ESE Former KD8DAO http://blog.MattIsKichigai.com On Sat, May 2, 2009 at 12:14 PM, Matt Palmer kd8...@gmail.com wrote: Got my KSB2 to the point where I am running the BFO setup for LSB/USB, i get all the way thru setting the LSB/BF!t frequency, I hit band- to return to the BFO parameter display, but when i hit mode to change the mode I am getting an info 230 message, and they K2 kicks me out of the menu without saving the settings. Not sure where to go from here, guidance would be appreciated. Matt W8ESE Former KD8DAO http://blog.MattIsKichigai.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 Setup issue
Matt, Check the crimp pins in the connector housing - that is the most common place for the probe to fail. The pins must be inserted correctly into the housing and the small tabs must lock into the rectangular holes in the side of the housing. If the wire has been inserted too far into the crimp pin, the contact will not work correctly and will be deformed the first time you plug it into the mating header. 73, Don W3FPR Matt Palmer wrote: Discovered my freq counter probe is intermittent, trying to fix, but ordered a new one from elecraft just in case, guess i'll have to shelve the k2 until the new one arrives. Matt W8ESE __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 INSTALL - RX LOST
Chris, Track down the receive problem first - it is not related to either the mic wiring or the transmit path. The problem is on the KSB2 board. First thing to check is the orientation of the diodes on the KSB2 board - all the cathodes (marked ends) should be mounted away from the board. The second thing to check is the windings of RFC1 and RFC2 - if you scraped the wire insulation on the core when winding the toroids, the bare wire can short to the crystal cans and ground out the signal. Take a thin strip of paper and insert it between the toroids and the crystals to check for that condition. Be certain you soldered all the pins of P2 and P3 (and the corresponding headers on the RF Board). As a check on the integrity of the receive path of the basic K2, try removing the KSB2 board and insert a wire jumper between pins 1 and 3 on both J9 and J10 on the RF board. The receiver should become functional - if not, you inadvertently disturbed something on the RF Board during the KSB2 installation. If one of those suggestions does not reveal the trouble, it is time for some in-depth troubleshooting. Get out the DMM and ask about it again. 73, Don W3FPR MTcja wrote: Just throwing this out there while I start backtracking to figure it out. I have installed the K160RX, KAT2, KBT2 and now the KSB2. Prior to install I was able to hear activity on the bands. After install I could hear very few stations. On the ones that I could hear, it was barely so even with full AF gain and the SWR meter would barely deflect. This AM a friend tried to TX on 40m at 5, 10 and 50 Watts. So it seems I have induced a deafness problem. I have also installed the Elecraft mic with the Rbias resister and jumpers. I was missing one jumper but used one from my computer junk box. It was slightly different as it does not have a top like the ones Elecraft provided. I include this on the off chance this might mean something to those of you far more experienced and knowledgeable than I. I have attempted to TX into a dummy load and I get dot deflections on the SWR meter in the 5-7 range but a separate watt meter indicates well below the set power. Anyway, if anyone has any thoughts on tracking down this gremlin they are certainly welcome. Thanks 73's, Chris K7CJA K2#4662 No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.100 / Virus Database: 269.23.16/1434 - Release Date: 5/15/2008 7:24 AM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KSB2 INSTALL - RX LOST
Hi Glenn: FB on all this. I LOVE the idea of a hard number of paid members such as 11 for club business. All I saw was a typo or two - checks for club rather than 'cub' business. HI Also you have two instances of the word 'next' in one sentence to describe the 2 readings. Change the last instance to 'following'. We may still want to define VE session member a bit further. I believe there was a YL that passed here Tech this last time from Humboldt - technically she is an RARC member by definition. We could simply send an email to those folks upon passage of their tech stating that they would need to be at X meetings to 'activate' such a membership, or maybe just the return of the email to signify they want this membership, or some variance in between. 73, Jamie WB4YDL -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of MTcja Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2008 12:27 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] KSB2 INSTALL - RX LOST Just throwing this out there while I start backtracking to figure it out. I have installed the K160RX, KAT2, KBT2 and now the KSB2. Prior to install I was able to hear activity on the bands. After install I could hear very few stations. On the ones that I could hear, it was barely so even with full AF gain and the SWR meter would barely deflect. This AM a friend tried to TX on 40m at 5, 10 and 50 Watts. So it seems I have induced a deafness problem. I have also installed the Elecraft mic with the Rbias resister and jumpers. I was missing one jumper but used one from my computer junk box. It was slightly different as it does not have a top like the ones Elecraft provided. I include this on the off chance this might mean something to those of you far more experienced and knowledgeable than I. I have attempted to TX into a dummy load and I get dot deflections on the SWR meter in the 5-7 range but a separate watt meter indicates well below the set power. Anyway, if anyone has any thoughts on tracking down this gremlin they are certainly welcome. Thanks 73's, Chris K7CJA K2#4662 -- View this message in context: http://www.nabble.com/KSB2-INSTALL---RX-LOST-tp17258436p17258436.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (5.5.1.322) Database version: 5.09830e http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor/ E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (5.5.1.322) Database version: 5.09840e http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 INSTALL - RX LOST
Have you checked the obvious things? I feel qualified offering the following suggestions as I've made all of these mistakes myself :-) - Make sure the antenna is plugged into the right connector. If your KAT2 is connected, use one of the Antenna Tuner connectors on the back side of the top panel. If the KAT2 is NOT connected, use the Antenna connector on the back of the bottom cover next to the power connector. - Make sure the KAT2 RF cable (J7) is connected to P6 on the RF board. (I don't know if it's changed, but it used to be that the RF connector (P6) and the battery connector (P3) were the same. There are warnings in the manual about getting them mixed up.) - Make sure the KAT2 control cable (J8) is plugged into P4 on the Control Board correctly. The green wire should be at the top. 73 -- Joe KB8AP On May 15, 2008, at 10:26 AM, MTcja wrote: Just throwing this out there while I start backtracking to figure it out. I have installed the K160RX, KAT2, KBT2 and now the KSB2. Prior to install I was able to hear activity on the bands. After install I could hear very few stations. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 INSTALL - RX LOST
This sounds a lot like a problem I had installing the KNB2 (which still isn't solved, regrettably). The cables between the top cover and the main boards of the K2 have a variety of connections, and they can get flexed in taking the cover off. In my case, the ground shield broke at the KAT2 -- somehow this allowed strong signals to leak through anyway, giving a mostly deaf K2. Resoldering the shield and removing the KNB2 restored full receive. (I'm still slowly trying to figure out what's wrong with the KNB2). Tracking the complete receive path is hard. Look first for bad connections where signals go in or out of the added modules. And keep telling yourself you'll get it working perfectly someday ... Peter N8MHD ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 INSTALL - RX LOST
Oh, forgot about rAnt. Make sure you didn't accidentally turn on rAnt (the receive-only antenna you get with the K160RX option) in the menu. It's right next to the CAL menu item and I've accidentally turned it on while calibrating the filters. 73 -- Joe KB8AP On May 15, 2008, at 11:34 AM, Joe Planisky wrote: Have you checked the obvious things? I feel qualified offering the following suggestions as I've made all of these mistakes myself :-) - Make sure the antenna is plugged into the right connector. If your KAT2 is connected, use one of the Antenna Tuner connectors on the back side of the top panel. If the KAT2 is NOT connected, use the Antenna connector on the back of the bottom cover next to the power connector. - Make sure the KAT2 RF cable (J7) is connected to P6 on the RF board. (I don't know if it's changed, but it used to be that the RF connector (P6) and the battery connector (P3) were the same. There are warnings in the manual about getting them mixed up.) - Make sure the KAT2 control cable (J8) is plugged into P4 on the Control Board correctly. The green wire should be at the top. 73 -- Joe KB8AP On May 15, 2008, at 10:26 AM, MTcja wrote: Just throwing this out there while I start backtracking to figure it out. I have installed the K160RX, KAT2, KBT2 and now the KSB2. Prior to install I was able to hear activity on the bands. After install I could hear very few stations. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KSB2 INSTALL - RX LOST
Elecrafter's: I have no idea how this ended up on this list. My apologies. 73, Jamie WB4YDL -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of James C. Hall, MD Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2008 12:53 PM To: 'MTcja'; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: RE: [Elecraft] KSB2 INSTALL - RX LOST Hi Glenn: FB on all this. I LOVE the idea of a hard number of paid members such as 11 for club business. All I saw was a typo or two - checks for club rather than 'cub' business. HI Also you have two instances of the word 'next' in one sentence to describe the 2 readings. Change the last instance to 'following'. We may still want to define VE session member a bit further. I believe there was a YL that passed here Tech this last time from Humboldt - technically she is an RARC member by definition. We could simply send an email to those folks upon passage of their tech stating that they would need to be at X meetings to 'activate' such a membership, or maybe just the return of the email to signify they want this membership, or some variance in between. 73, Jamie WB4YDL -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of MTcja Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2008 12:27 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] KSB2 INSTALL - RX LOST Just throwing this out there while I start backtracking to figure it out. I have installed the K160RX, KAT2, KBT2 and now the KSB2. Prior to install I was able to hear activity on the bands. After install I could hear very few stations. On the ones that I could hear, it was barely so even with full AF gain and the SWR meter would barely deflect. This AM a friend tried to TX on 40m at 5, 10 and 50 Watts. So it seems I have induced a deafness problem. I have also installed the Elecraft mic with the Rbias resister and jumpers. I was missing one jumper but used one from my computer junk box. It was slightly different as it does not have a top like the ones Elecraft provided. I include this on the off chance this might mean something to those of you far more experienced and knowledgeable than I. I have attempted to TX into a dummy load and I get dot deflections on the SWR meter in the 5-7 range but a separate watt meter indicates well below the set power. Anyway, if anyone has any thoughts on tracking down this gremlin they are certainly welcome. Thanks 73's, Chris K7CJA K2#4662 -- View this message in context: http://www.nabble.com/KSB2-INSTALL---RX-LOST-tp17258436p17258436.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (5.5.1.322) Database version: 5.09830e http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor/ E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (5.5.1.322) Database version: 5.09840e http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (5.5.1.322) Database version: 5.09840e http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor/ E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (5.5.1.322) Database version: 5.09840e http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2: Accidentally reversed RP2 - OK?
Kristinn: Looks like the resistor gods were with you this time. If you look at the schematic for the KSB2, you'll see (upper right corner) that RP2 is 4 separate resistors with no pins in common (1-2, 3-4, 5-6, 7-8), so you can keep RP2 installed reversed. The same is true for RP1. HOWEVER, RP5, for example, has a common pin (pin 1), so if you had reversed RP5, you would have had to desolder it and install it correctly. Good luck with the rest of the installation, but watch out for those polarizing markings! They are usually there for a reason. 73's, John AA0VE TF3KX wrote: I was staying up a bit too late last night, assembling my KSB2, and accidentally installed the 2.7K resistor network RP2 reversed (pin1 is where pin 8 should be, etc.). Now, if RP2 simply consists of four equal and individual resistors (pins 1-2, 3-4, 5-6, 7-8) I would believe this does not matter. Furthermore, the symmetry of this part of the KSB2 circuit would also support this. I don't like taking up the soldering iron and desoldering pump to fix something that does not need messing with. So, it would be reassuring to hear if any one seconds my conclusion to leave RP2 as is... 73 - Kristinn, TF3KX ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 mic hook up
Hi Robert, Correct, just had the side off #1400 to check. Regards, Mike VP8NO - Original Message - From: Robert 'RC' Conley [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2008 10:24 PM Subject: [Elecraft] KSB2 mic hook up | I'm installing the KSB2 in K2-#6321. I'm using A Kenwood MC-43S Mic | from my TS 850S. | It looks like all the pins are wired straight across EXCEPT PINS 5 6 | 6 WHICH ARE NOT | JUMPED if I'm reading it right | RC kc5wa ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 sidetone?
Chris, I cannot relate 'sidetone in the headset' with SSB operation. In CW, there is a sidetone presented to the headphones or speaker which follows the keying, but there is nothing of that sort for SSB. If you lost your CW sidetone while using the K2 memory, that is quite another matter. The K3 does provide a means of monitoring the transmitted audio (but that is not a sidetone), but the K2 does not - an external receiver with a short antenna while the K2 is operating into a dummy load can be used to listen to your transmitted audio. As far as the 'murmur', please try to be more descriptive - I can only guess that it might be either room noise pickup by the microphone or it could be incomplete carrier suppression or possibly some sort of RF Feedback due to 'RF in the shack'. If you have an oscilloscope or other means of detecting a low level RF signal, you can set the carrier balance pot with more precision than by using the method described in the manual. Do not connect a microphone but do connect a key or paddle - connect the 'scope or other detector across a dummy load. Then go to LSB mode and close the dot paddle or handkey and adjust the carrier balance pot for minimum carrier - switch to USB and check the carrier balance again - you may have to go back and forth between LSB and USB to obtain the lowest compromise setting for both sidebands. Properly adjusted, the K2 carrier balance is excellent. You may also want to re-check your OP1 passband setting using Spectrogram. It is important to place the low frequency corner (-3dB point) of the passband close to the 300 Hz point for both LSB and USB. If you have the stock 2.4 kHz SSB filter, set the Spectrogram markers at 300 and 2600 and center the passband between those markers and it will normally be correct for both transmit and receive. See the filter setting information in part 3 of my K2 dial calibration article on my website http://w3fpr.qrpradio.com for additional information about using Spectrogram for setting the SSB filters. 73, Don W3FPR Chris Kantarjiev wrote: Even though I built and installed a KSB2 a year or so ago, this week is the first time I've actually used it. I have to admit, phone operation is sort of fun, though I'm not likely to spend much time outside contests doing it - altogether too much like a telephone. One question: there doesn't seem to be any sidetone in the headset when I transmit. I made some recordings of my audio output (to play back for W7GH, who was also testing out his KSB2), and we both noticed that there is some ... murmuring when I'm transmitting, but nothing intelligible. I thought the lack of sidetone would be an issue, but it doesn't seem to be. Still, I'm curious - what's the murmuring? Should there be audible sidetone? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KSB2 sidetone?
I cannot relate 'sidetone in the headset' with SSB operation. In CW, there is a sidetone presented to the headphones or speaker which follows the keying, but there is nothing of that sort for SSB. The K3 does provide a means of monitoring the transmitted audio (but that is not a sidetone) FWIW I'm a pilot and the transceivers we use in airplanes to communicate with the ground all have audio sidetone that feeds back into the headset. Your telephone has sidetone that feeds your voice back to the earpiece. In both cases this feature is called sidetone. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sidetone and http://www8.garmin.com/manuals/SL30Nav_Comm_UserGuide.pdf (page 32). Craig NZ0R ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 sidetone?
The reason for sidetone is that it makes talking much easier if you can hear your own voice. Early telephones could easily be made to have no sidetone, but it was found that the user found it difficult to speak properly, so some of their voice was fed back just for this purpose. If you have tried speaking over the internet with a loudspeaker, you quickly build up several echoes as your sidetone and your respondent's sidetone build up, so, headphones are almost mandatory. If your headphones are for hi fi, they may have little attenuation of the surroundings, such as my Sennheiser, but communications headphones are usually made to keep out extraneous noise and that's when you need sidetone. It's up to 20dB down, but nice if this is adjustable to taste and local conditions. David G3UNA - Original Message - From: Craig Rairdin [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 3:08 PM Subject: RE: [Elecraft] KSB2 sidetone? I cannot relate 'sidetone in the headset' with SSB operation. In CW, there is a sidetone presented to the headphones or speaker which follows the keying, but there is nothing of that sort for SSB. The K3 does provide a means of monitoring the transmitted audio (but that is not a sidetone) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 sidetone?
Everybody has sidetone. When you record your voice and play it back you'll notice it doesn't sound the same as you hear yourself because you hear your speech returning through your skull bones. While wearing headphones you're hearing the murmur or sidetone if you will returning through your skull bones I've heard this murmur with every transceiver I've ever owned On Nov 19, 2007 9:31 AM, David Cutter [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: The reason for sidetone is that it makes talking much easier if you can hear your own voice. Early telephones could easily be made to have no sidetone, but it was found that the user found it difficult to speak properly, so some of their voice was fed back just for this purpose. If you have tried speaking over the internet with a loudspeaker, you quickly build up several echoes as your sidetone and your respondent's sidetone build up, so, headphones are almost mandatory. If your headphones are for hi fi, they may have little attenuation of the surroundings, such as my Sennheiser, but communications headphones are usually made to keep out extraneous noise and that's when you need sidetone. It's up to 20dB down, but nice if this is adjustable to taste and local conditions. David G3UNA - Original Message - From: Craig Rairdin [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 3:08 PM Subject: RE: [Elecraft] KSB2 sidetone? I cannot relate 'sidetone in the headset' with SSB operation. In CW, there is a sidetone presented to the headphones or speaker which follows the keying, but there is nothing of that sort for SSB. The K3 does provide a means of monitoring the transmitted audio (but that is not a sidetone) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 OP1 filter USB response...
--- Steve Kallal [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: It has been a few weeks since I built the KSB2 option. There is one problem I haven't yet resolved. The response on the USB side of OP1 is not as broad as the LSB side, and has a narrower peak. Hi Steve. Assuming your KSB2 is working properly, what you are seeing may very well be a familiar characteristic of the crystal ladder filter used in the rig. I ran some sweeps of my K2/100 several years ago, the results of which clearly illustrate this effect. Response vs. frequency plots may be found here: http://www.qsl.net/kd2bd/ksb2.html The response is slightly asymmetric, with the roll-off being noticeably sharper on one side of the passband than the other. This is normal. The side with the sharper roll-off will (in my opinion) ring more than the gentler side. As such, audio products that hit the sharper edge may appear to be over-emphasized, so it might be beneficial to tailor your microphone's audio response and the BFO frequencies to avoid hitting this edge with too much audio. Also, be aware that due to the mixing scheme of the transceiver, the audio characteristics you observed are not only a product of the sideband selected, but also the frequency band you've on as well. 73, de John, KD2BD Visit John on the Web at: http://kd2bd.ham.org/ . . . . Shape Yahoo! in your own image. Join our Network Research Panel today! http://surveylink.yahoo.com/gmrs/yahoo_panel_invite.asp?a=7 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 OP1 filter USB response...
Steve, Tell us more. The SSB OP1 filter as observed with Spectrogram in LSB or USB should show a relatively flat passband extending from about 300 Hz to 2600 Hz. I do not understand 'peak' in that context. It may be that your BFO frequencies are not adjusted properly, but your use of the 'peak' term causes some doubt about what you are observing. Can you be more specific and descriptive? 73, Don W3FPR Steve Kallal wrote: It has been a few weeks since I built the KSB2 option. There is one problem I haven't yet resolved. The response on the USB side of OP1 is not as broad as the LSB side, and has a narrower peak. I didn't pay much attention to this before. I've never transmitted in USB except for the digital modes using RTTY reverse. I'm not much of a SSB guy. These observations were made with the Spectrogram software. The symptoms are quite noticeable by listening also. 73, Steve N6VL K2 #2289 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 No Transmit Audio
Mark, The path through Q1 is only used in CW mode to make the path from the BFO to the Transmit Mixer (on the RF Board) complete - that circuitry replaces C167 which you removed from the RF board. For SSB, the Balanced modulator signal goes 'backwards' through the filter and is applied to Q2 where it should find its way back to the RF board and on to the transmit mixer. Be certain the TXC signal is operating correctly - it should be near 6 volts during CW transmit and near zero during SSB transmit. If you need more detailed info, please ask. I do not know of a document with that level of detail other than the schematic. 73, Don W3FPR Beth Wenzel wrote: Hi guys, i built my k2 about a year and a half ago, I've recently decided to add a Ksb2, all wen together well, but... alas it doesn't work. I've checked all of the signal voltages, everything is ok. I've traced (with an o-scope) a nice looking modulated signal to the top of D3, then nothing. Checking D3 in circuit it looks ok (.6 ohm forward, 100k reverse) I'm assuming the sig should pass through to the base of Q3 (?). ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Fwd: Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 Fine Carrier Adjustment]
I noticed this did not go to the list - I intended it to! 73, Don W3FPR Original Message Steve, Yes, just put a short length of wire on the other receiver and adjust the spacing, length of antenna and other things so you get about an S-9 or just a bit higher signal on the receiver with a CW signal - then you can switch to SSB and find the carrier. Adjust the pot until you have the smallest amount of carrier. If you have a 'scope with a 10X probe that will display 50 to 100 millivolts per division, just connect that 'scope across the dummy load and you can observe the carrier as an RF voltage. It is usually easier than setting up a separate receiver. You do not have to connect a microphone (better if you don't, there will be no mic pickup to confuse things), just plug in the paddles and close the dot side, that is the same as pressing PTT. Suggestions - use 40 meters, and adjust LSB first, then check USB and if necessary touch up the adjustment but go back and forth between sidebands until you have both about the same - there may have to be a small compromise between sidebands. 73, Don W3FPR Steve Watkins wrote: Thanks to Jerry, WA2DKG, I got past the Deaf K2 by plugging the speaker into the P5 on the RF board vs. the Control Board. I'm not sure how or where I missed that it should be plugged in there, but it works, so things weren't shorted after all on the KSB2 board. Now I'm at the Fine Carrier Balance Adjustment section (Page 19 in the KSB2 Manual), and am not sure how to hear the K2's transmitted signal on a external receiver. Since the K2 is connected to a dummy load, am I to run a short piece of wire from the external receiver and locate it near the dummy load to hear this? Thanks, Steve NE7RD ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KSB2 Bandwidth modification
Hi Steve, It is a worthwhile exrecise. You do not only get a wider band width but also less ripple within the pass band. There is an upgrade kit available from Elecraft and you have no need to change the entire KSB2 board. I would suggest 2.4Khz because this will give you good sound quality with reasonable selectivity. 2.6Khz is too wide for me. For most voice operation, 2.4khz is the norm. 73 Johnny Siu VR2XMC From: Barry, Stephen [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] KSB2 Bandwidth modification Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2007 13:32:23 -0500 Question for the K2 listserv. I have a K2 (s/n 377) and the KSB2 with the normal 2.1 KHz. bandwidth configuration. I get excellent audio reports but it is narrow. I'm thinking of purchasing another KSB2 board and want to make it either 2.4 or 2.6 KHz. For any who may have made the modification, do you think 2.4 would make much difference or should I just go for the 2.6 KHz. B/W,. and are there any considerations when opening it up that far? Your thoughts Thanks, Steve, AE2G _ Hotmail Extra Storage讓你獲得10MB 額外儲存空間，請即申請！ http://join.msn.com/?pgmarket=zh-hk ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KSB2 SSB Adapter problem
Haken, At this point, do not be concerned about those voltages you found did not agree with the chart in the manual. The no voltages at the diodes is a cause for concern. The problem may be in where you measured for voltage or the settings you were using. We will get to that. Let's verify that the source for the diode switching voltages are correct: First thing, set the SSB FL1 filter to OP1 (using the K2 menu). Set the K2 to SSB mode and be certain FL1 is selected. Now measure the voltage at U1 pin 21 (should be about 6 volts), and measure the voltage at U1 pin 22 (should be near zero volts). Now, switch to CW mode (any of the CW filters is OK), and measure the voltage at U1 pin 21 (should now be near zero volts) and U1 pin 22 (should now be near 6 volts). You should also find about 6 volts at the cathode of D7 and D8 and at the cahode of D11 and D12. If you do not have these voltages present, check to be certain RFC1 and RFC2 are not shorting to the crystal cases (insert a sheet of paper between the choke and the crystal as an insulator). If all the checks above are correct, switch back to SSB mode, FL1 (OP1) filter and check for about 6 volts at the cathode of D6 and D9 and at the cathode of D10, D13 and D14. If you find all those voltages correct, the filters should switch between the CW filter and the SSB filter. Just as information if you are following the schematic - the RXC signal indicates that receive should be through the CW filter when this signal is active (about 6 volts), and RXS indicates that the receive path is through the SSB filter when this signal is active. Make the checks above, and if that did not lead you to fine the source of the problem, send us your report of your findings. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- I have just put together the KSB2 SSB ADAPTER and I have problems. Referring to the manual on page 15 “Initial Test” the last paragraph “Verify that the K2 performs...” I do not get any sound in the loudspeaker, or the sound I get is very very muted. I can hear some very faint - both CW and SSB – signals but only when the volume is turned up to max. Else there is no problem doing the “BFO Test”, “Receive-Mode SSB Filter Test” and “BFO Setup for LSB/USB” I have checked the voltages as seen on page 23 in the manual and found the following anomalies in receive mode: U1-21... zero volt (should be 5.8) U2-5 6.0 volt (should be 0.6) U4-3 6.0 volt (should be 0.6) D10-D13 and D6-D9... no voltage in receive mode. So, what could be the matter? 73 de Håkan / SM6EQO -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.15.28/605 - Release Date: 12/27/2006 12:21 PM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 SSB Adapter problem
Don, it was a short betwen either RFC1 or RFC2 and one of the crystal cases that caused the problem. Really embarassing because it was basically the first and only real problem I have come upon building my K2 #5810 and all the extras... :-) It's so easy to happen that I really think it should be pointed out in the manual. 73 de Haakan / SM6EQO -- Don Wilhelm skrev: Haken, At this point, do not be concerned about those voltages you found did not agree with the chart in the manual. The no voltages at the diodes is a cause for concern. The problem may be in where you measured for voltage or the settings you were using. We will get to that. Let's verify that the source for the diode switching voltages are correct: First thing, set the SSB FL1 filter to OP1 (using the K2 menu). Set the K2 to SSB mode and be certain FL1 is selected. Now measure the voltage at U1 pin 21 (should be about 6 volts), and measure the voltage at U1 pin 22 (should be near zero volts). Now, switch to CW mode (any of the CW filters is OK), and measure the voltage at U1 pin 21 (should now be near zero volts) and U1 pin 22 (should now be near 6 volts). You should also find about 6 volts at the cathode of D7 and D8 and at the cahode of D11 and D12. If you do not have these voltages present, check to be certain RFC1 and RFC2 are not shorting to the crystal cases (insert a sheet of paper between the choke and the crystal as an insulator). If all the checks above are correct, switch back to SSB mode, FL1 (OP1) filter and check for about 6 volts at the cathode of D6 and D9 and at the cathode of D10, D13 and D14. If you find all those voltages correct, the filters should switch between the CW filter and the SSB filter. Just as information if you are following the schematic - the RXC signal indicates that receive should be through the CW filter when this signal is active (about 6 volts), and RXS indicates that the receive path is through the SSB filter when this signal is active. Make the checks above, and if that did not lead you to fine the source of the problem, send us your report of your findings. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- I have just put together the KSB2 SSB ADAPTER and I have problems. Referring to the manual on page 15 “Initial Test” the last paragraph “Verify that the K2 performs...” I do not get any sound in the loudspeaker, or the sound I get is very very muted. I can hear some very faint - both CW and SSB – signals but only when the volume is turned up to max. Else there is no problem doing the “BFO Test”, “Receive-Mode SSB Filter Test” and “BFO Setup for LSB/USB” I have checked the voltages as seen on page 23 in the manual and found the following anomalies in receive mode: U1-21... zero volt (should be 5.8) U2-5 6.0 volt (should be 0.6) U4-3 6.0 volt (should be 0.6) D10-D13 and D6-D9... no voltage in receive mode. So, what could be the matter? 73 de Håkan / SM6EQO -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.15.28/605 - Release Date: 12/27/2006 12:21 PM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KSB2 no audio output
Are you still in SSB mode or perhaps did the MODE button get bumped to put you in CW mode?? Ron AC7AC -Original Message- Hi, My SSB module worked fine before. I add my kpa100 and every test went well. I test my kat100 and every test went well until I did the last test with the dummy load. Now my Mic is sending a tone. No more voice. But the power still there. Is any body had this probleme? Best regard and best 73's Sylvain Ve2SSL ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE:[Elecraft]KSB2
Before you send it off. Check the diodes. I installed 1 backwards and got the same issues. I am referring to the switching diodes on both ends of the crystal filter. Richard Kent, WD8AJG ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KSB2
I think you should keep the KSB2 until the new one is finished also, BUT... The statement without it, my beloved K2 is dead is not true. Just stick a couple jumpers in the short jacks (1 to 3), and a [I Forgot] pF cap in the big one, between 5 and 7 if memory serves. Dan / WG4S / K2 #2 456 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KSB2
Fred, take care not to put too much solder on the pins of the crystals when you install them in your new KSB2. One of the most common reasons for low gain is a bit of solder that puddled around the pin under the crystal can where you can't see it and shorting the signal path to the can. Remember, those are plated through holes, so when solder melts and flows on the bottom side, it's melted and flowing on the top side under the crystal too! Ron AC7AC -Original Message- Fred, K6DGW wrote: Although I operate almost no SSB, I built the KSB2 for my K2 (#4398) late last year so I could use the K2 for RTTY contests. It seems to do everything a well conditioned KSB2 should do except it exhibits about 30 dB loss through the on-board filter. Thus, the SSB output from the K2 is in the milliwatt range and the RX level drops very noticably with the OP1 filter selected. I haven't had the time to figure it all out, and it's a bit tough since my test equipment is limited to a DMM, old Tek scope, and a very old service monitor. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 in K2/100
I know this message is a bit old, but I've been too tied up with other projects to read the reflector mail for the last two months (fyi - the reflector generated over 2000 emails in the last 2 months). The increased gain mod I did for the KSB2 was originally designed to increase the transmit gain in SSB for a barefoot K2. The original K2 had difficulty reaching 10 watts of power output in SSB on 10 meters. When you drove the audio input harder to get to full power, the K2 would start to clip on the audio peaks. This does not create a wider bandwidth signal because the SSB modulator is followed by the SSB filter, but it does increase the audio distortion. I added the extra emitter follower stage to increase the overall IF gain in the SSB transmit signal path. This mod should not be necessary with the KPA100, since it can reach full power with only a few watts of drive. Some folks have reported that the emitter follower stage can cause power output instability when the KPA100 is installed. There is at least one fix around that reduces the gain of the emitter follower stage by increasing the emitter resistor value and apparently eliminates this instability. I would recommend that the emitter follower gain stage not be used in a K2/100 since it does appear to cause a stability problem, and there is no need for the extra gain on 10 meters. -John KI6WX - Original Message - From: Roy Morris [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, June 03, 2006 9:41 AM I would like to hear from anyone who has K2/100s with both the unmodified KSB2 and the modified KSB2 with the KI6WX 2N amp mod (and 1.08 firmware). How does this mod affect mic gain and VOX operation? How does the absence of this mod affect mic gain and VOX operation? Does the mod help SSB modulation on 10 meters with the power level set at 5 watts? Do you find this mod helpful at 100 watts? Thanks for your input. Roy Morris W4WFB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 in K2/100
John - KI6WX said: (fyi - the reflector generated over 2000 emails in the last 2 months). == No wonder I havn't got the house painted! Rick Dettinger K7MW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KSB2 in K2/100
It's very unlikely you'd find any benefit from using this mod running 5 watts PEP on any band. That mod was specifically to provide full K2 output for those units who, because of the combination of the particular K2 and mic used, don't make a full 10 watts PEP output on all bands. The mod would help at 100 watts in the same sense that it helps at 10 watts: it provides the overall gain to make sure one can get a full 100 watts PEP on all bands. In SSB mode, the power output from the K2 is a function of the overall gain of the transmitter RF system and, within limits, the amount of audio supplied to the balanced modulator. The overall gain of the transmitter RF system falls off at the higher frequencies and is usually the least on 10 meters. So most operators who notice low output notice it on 10 meters. Of course, there's a limit to amount of audio the balanced modulator can handle, so simply adding audio gain isn't always the best choice. Indeed, excess audio gain can backfire with distortion, although the speech amplifier I.C. used in the K2 has an internal automatic gain control that should limit the distortion in most situations. John took a different approach with his 2N mod. He increased the transmit RF path gain mostly by providing a better impedance match at the output of the balanced modulator. His notes say that it provides about 10 dB of gain. I'm using an electret mic that, with my particular K2, provides full SSB output from 160 through 10 meters, although there is very little headroom at 10 meters. I get just 10 watts output in SSB mode on 10 meters without the KPA100 switched in and 100 watts PEP with the KPA100. Although I've not added John's mod, it has been on my to do list in case I'd like to play with a microphone with less output. I can say from first-hand experience helping John test some of his mods and through incorporating them on my K2 that John's mods are well thought out, well engineered and have always worked very well. Several of his mods have become in integral part of the K2 as currently shipped. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Roy Morris Sent: Saturday, June 03, 2006 9:42 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] KSB2 in K2/100 I would like to hear from anyone who has K2/100s with both the unmodified KSB2 and the modified KSB2 with the KI6WX 2N amp mod (and 1.08 firmware). How does this mod affect mic gain and VOX operation? How does the absence of this mod affect mic gain and VOX operation? Does the mod help SSB modulation on 10 meters with the power level set at 5 watts? Do you find this mod helpful at 100 watts? Thanks for your input. Roy Morris W4WFB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 in K2/100
Roy; I'm confused. Previous posts indicate you have already made this mod (and the secondary ALC mod) to your KSB2. If so, what have you found? I am contemplating the mod (and possibly the secondary ALC mod) for my K2/100. Thus I am very interested in comments on both mods... On Jun 3, 2006, at 9:41 AM, Roy Morris wrote: I would like to hear from anyone who has K2/100s with both the unmodified KSB2 and the modified KSB2 with the KI6WX 2N amp mod (and 1.08 firmware). How does this mod affect mic gain and VOX operation? How does the absence of this mod affect mic gain and VOX operation? Does the mod help SSB modulation on 10 meters with the power level set at 5 watts? Do you find this mod helpful at 100 watts? Thanks for your input. Roy Morris W4WFB No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.8.1/355 - Release Date: 6/2/2006 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com - Jack Brindle, W6FB - ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 in K2/100
Roy, As this mod is after the balanced modulator it does nothing to affect the mic gain or improve the VOX operation. 73 Stewart G3RXQ On Sat, 3 Jun 2006 12:41:42 -0400, Roy Morris wrote: I would like to hear from anyone who has K2/100s with both the unmodified KSB2 and the modified KSB2 with the KI6WX 2N amp mod (and 1.08 firmware). How does this mod affect mic gain and VOX operation? How does the absence of this mod affect mic gain and VOX operation? Does the mod help SSB modulation on 10 meters with the power level set at 5 watts? Do you find this mod helpful at 100 watts? Thanks for your input. Roy Morris W4WFB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KSB2 P1 Wiring Questions
I just wonder why would a K2 owner want to spend good money for one of those solely to jumper the mic lines. There is a header to do the same thing on the rear of the front panel. Elecraft designed it so you can interface any mic to the K2, but I still believe it is easier to re-wire the mic plug as required. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- There is a new item from MFJ that people may find helpful when interfacing a mic to the K2. Its an MFJ-655 mic equalizer/conditioner/preamp that is supposed to interface any mic to just about any rig. It takes two types of mic connectors and the jumpering is done in the MFJ-655. You can use the standard setup with 2 pin jumper blocks in the K2 and not have to make any changes there. I don't have one but I think I will buy it soon. Read about it on the MFJ website. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KSB2 P1 Wiring Questions
On Wed, 5 Apr 2006 08:22:01 -0400, Don Wilhelm wrote: There is a new item from MFJ that people may find helpful when interfacing a mic to the K2. Its an MFJ-655 mic equalizer/conditioner/ preamp that is supposed to interface any mic to just about any rig. I just wonder why would a K2 owner want to spend good money for one of those solely to jumper the mic lines. But but but the MFJ gadget costs in the $150 range. Got to keep the economy of Mississippi going after the hurricanes!! -- 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KSB2 P1 Wiring Questions
Folks, My advice on mic wiring - unless you must use the mics with multiple rigs, wire the mic configuration header for the Elecraft mics, and then change the wiring at the mic plug to match the Elecraft configuration. By doing that, it certainly simplifies things a whole lot. I see no sense in wiring your Elecraft rig to work with a Yaesu mic (for instance) since that slaves you forevermore to using the Yaesu mic wiring configuaration. IMHO, if you have only an Elecraft station, the mic plugs should be wired for the Elecraft configuration. -- If you must use the mics on multiple rigs, then yes, I can understand that you might want to use that manufacturers mic wiring on your K2 so you can connect any mic wired for that rig, but lacking that, I say, change the mic wiring to the Elecraft mic wiring and you cannot go wrong. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- I've successfully completed the KSB2 module for my K2/100 through p. 16 in the manual, front panel PCB component installation. Now it's time for mic configuration, p. 17. Winding toroids, soldering multi-pin connectors and IC's, stuffing capacitors, etc.--those I don't mind. However, when it comes to mic configuration and the possibility of fouling up my K2 via an incorrectly-wired 5V line--that's when I get jittery. Here are the details: 1) Initial mic to be used: Kenwood MC-60 2) Eventual mic to be used: Radio Shack RS 33-1187 headset 3) P1 wiring method: N0SS's computer plug (thanks for the info on your website, Tom) or two-pin jumpers--both are at hand. After studying the KSB2 manual and reading postings in the Elecraft reflector archives, here are some questions: 1) Several reflector postings mention that for Kenwood settings, just use jumpers straight across for all the Signal and Mic pin connections. However, on p. 18 under Kenwood mics, there's a note: Do not connect pin 5 unless mic has internal preamp, and another, Leave pin 6 of the mic unconnected. I plead ignorance--does the MC-60 have an internal preamp? If it does, according to the manual I should connect signal pin 6 to mic pin 5. 2) I've read a posting that mentions leaving the bottom slide switch on the MC-60 off. Done. Wonder if this negates the warning listed above and I should just leave signal pin 6 (5V) unconnected? 3) The MC-60 has two impedance settings, 50K and 500--is there a preferred setting with the K2? 4) Any suggestions for wiring an 8-pin female mic plug from the RS 33-1187 that'll be compatible with Kenwood P1 settings? Finally, it's been mentioned before but for those who need it here's the Radio Shack part number for a package of ten two-pin jumpers: 276-1512. 73, John, N7ON K2/100 S/N 5023 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KSB2 Missing parts
Steve, Unless something has changed at Elecraft packaging recently, those parts are mixed in with all the rest (not packaged in a separate envelope). So if you have sorted all the parts and they are still not present, a note to mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] would seem to be in order. Unless of course, you had extracted them earlier and already installed them on the front panel board - check for the mic header on the back of the Front Panel board. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Hi, I have just checked my inventory for the KSB2 and seem to be short of all of the components for mounting on the front panel board, i.e. : - P1, c4-c8,q3,rp3,rbias and R13, It seems to me that the parts must all have been in 1 envelope and this was omitted from my kit. Before I contact Elecraft for replacements I wonder if someone could confirm this so I can check the shack to see if the envelope has been stolen by the underpants gnomes. Thanks, Steve G0XAR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.3.1/292 - Release Date: 3/24/2006 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KSB2 Observations and Questions
Hi Dean, I had made some resistor changes to increase the compression. It works well now. I do not have my Elecraft notes handy but I got the info to change from the following web site. I couldn't find the English version of this. N2TK, Tony http://www.mydarc.de/df7khk/dwn/ksb2_mod.pdf -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Dean Fewkes Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 2:29 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] KSB2 Observations and Questions I just built and installed the KSB2 for my KS SN5319. I used the capacitors for 2.6 MHZ bandwidth and the transmit audio sounds excellent and full bodied as tested on my Mark V. I did notice on the receive audio that there is some roll off below 450 HTZ regardless of where the filter/BFO is set. The roll off is gradual until it gets to the filter edge so I am not too concerned about this for communications purposes, but it does take away from the ability to get that full bodied sound on receive that I get on my Mark V. I suspect that this roll-off must be in the audio circuit and I wonder if anybody else has ideas on this. The other thing is that the compressor does not seem to work. There is no detectable difference between 1:1, 2:1, 3:1 or 4:1 settings. The transmitted signal sounds really good otherwise. I am using a standard Yaesu MH-31 dynamic mic that is known to work good on other radios. Thanks for your help and ideas! Dean KG7MZ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 OP1 Filter BFO adjustment for xmit
Bob Nielsen wrote: Spectrogram - an audio spectrum analyzer that runs on a Windows computer (there are others that will work on other OS's, but doesn't everyone run Windows G). Actually I am reading this on Linux. I did my alignment on a Linux machine using one of the digital mode programs See http://www.baudline.com/ - free as in beer, not free as in speech, but works a treat. Looks nicer than spectrogram too, though I'll admit I've never run spectrogram, just seen n0ss's screenshots. -- Nosey Nick Waterman, G7RZQ, K2 #5209. use Std::Disclaimer;[EMAIL PROTECTED] The only thing worse than raining cats and dogs is hailing taxis. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KSB2 OP1 Filter BFO adjustment for xmit
Cathy, Yes there is a simpler way to do that! That way is called Spectrogram - an audio spectrum analyzer that runs on a Windows computer (there are others that will work on other OS's, but doesn't everyone run Windows G). You can download version 5 of Spectrogram from Tom Hammond's website www.n0ss.net - while it is not the latest version, it is free and will do much more than the task required to get your K2 filters correct. Tom also has some instructions for using Spectrogram to set the filters on his website and also at the Elecraft site in the Builder's resource page. You may still want to record your transmissions and then make small alterations to achieve the voice response you desire, but if you rely on another receiver, make certain both the other receiver and the K2 are showing the correct frequency - you can check that by tuning to WWV at 10 MHz. You may also need to do a good job of setting the dial calibration. You can find instructions dealing with accurately setting the reference oscillator and completing the dial calibration and filter alignment in the K2 Dial Calibration article on my website http://w3fpr.qrprqdio.com . 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- I have just finished building and installing the KSB2 in K2 #5191. The rig works fine on CW and SSB receive, but I am struggling to get the BFO tuned right for SSB xmit. My crystals were marked 3.7. I've set LSB to 4913.6 and USB to 4916.4. When I set the rig to xmit on 20 meters USB and speak into the Alinco EMS-42 mike, the received voice sounds correct if I tune the receive rig to 200 Hz higher than the indicated K2 frequency display. I've tried adjusting the BFO up and down without success. The job is made harder because I can't seem to figure out how to adjust the BFO while xmitting. I have been having to drop out of CAL FIL, xmit test receive freq, go back into CAL FIL, adjust BFO, drop out of CAL FILL, etc. Surely there is a simple way to do this? Comments? --Cathy, N5WVR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.375 / Virus Database: 267.15.6/257 - Release Date: 2/10/2006 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 OP1 Filter BFO adjustment for xmit
Don Wilhelm wrote: Cathy, Yes there is a simpler way to do that! That way is called Spectrogram - an audio spectrum analyzer that runs on a Windows computer (there are others that will work on other OS's, but doesn't everyone run Windows G). Actually I am reading this on Linux. But the machine is dual-boot with a Windows partition, so in a way the answer is still yes. :-) Thanks to Don and everyone who replied. I have whipped up the connector cable and calibrated everything with Spectrogram. I don't know how well the result will sound, but the passband sure looks like it's in the right place now. :-) --Cathy (N5WVR) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 OP1 Filter BFO adjustment for xmit
On Feb 12, 2006, at 6:06 PM, Cathy James wrote: Don Wilhelm wrote: Cathy, Yes there is a simpler way to do that! That way is called Spectrogram - an audio spectrum analyzer that runs on a Windows computer (there are others that will work on other OS's, but doesn't everyone run Windows G). Actually I am reading this on Linux. But the machine is dual-boot with a Windows partition, so in a way the answer is still yes. :-) Thanks to Don and everyone who replied. I have whipped up the connector cable and calibrated everything with Spectrogram. I don't know how well the result will sound, but the passband sure looks like it's in the right place now. :-) I did my alignment on a Linux machine using one of the digital mode programs which had a spectrum display (possibly it was GMFSK, but if was a few years ago so I don't remember for sure.) There are many ways to skin that cat :^) 73, Bob Nielsen, N7XY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 OP1 Filter BFO adjustment for xmit
Spectrogram ran under wine for me. It is better tham gmfsk for this task because it has a settable integration period. Leigh/WA5ZNU ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KSB2 OP1 Filter BFO adjustment for xmit
Cathy, N5WVR wrote: Thanks to Don and everyone who replied. I have whipped up the connector cable and calibrated everything with Spectrogram. I don't know how well the result will sound, but the passband sure looks like it's in the right place now. :-) -- I found that after I had it set up with Spectrogram I wanted to 'tweak' the BFO frequencies slightly for best SSB audio quality, just as the SSB manual suggested. In my case, it helped a lot to move the bandpass slightly farther from the carrier - up to nearly 400 Hz at the -3 dB points. It'll vary with your voice and the mic you use, but that's easily done by monitoring your signal on another receiver. If possible, record it and listen to the playback. Of course you can do that in the air too. Temporarily install the FCTR probe in the test point, then during the QSO bump the BFO setting in small increments while someone you trust reports on the change. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KSB2 off frequency?
John, NA8M wrote: ...the MD2 sounded bad on frequency, but sounded normal if I tuned up about 40 hz. The Ten Tec had no lows and changing frequency made little difference. But, it took more voice to trip the VOX with the Ten Tec. Would this be due to my filter setup? Will adjusting the OP1 filter bring my transmit frequency back? Do I need to move the filter up or down? Will changing KSB2 R14 from 1k to 2-3K help the Ten Tec mike drive the KSB2? All help greatly appreciated. --- Regarding audio quality: 1) Are you properly tuned into your own signal when monitoring? Depending upon how you've calibrated your K2, your frequency reading may not be the exact frequency, so it's normal to tune for best sound. Also, is XIT turned off? If your rig is more than 10 or 20 Hz off frequency, you can improve the dial accuracy by properly calibrating the master clock on the Control Board. See the instructions for calibrating C22 on the Elecraft site under Builder's resources. Even when calibrated, a dial error of up to about 30 Hz is common, because of the resolution of the logic circuits used. 2) What filter bandwidth are using for OPT1? It is fixed, but can be changed by changing components on the SSB board. The basic K2 SSB module has a filter bandwidth of just about 2 kHz. That's 'tight' for most SSB operators. It can sound good and, most importantly, has the greatest punch when set up just right (tighter bandwidth concentrates the RF in a smaller slice of spectrum). But its adjustment is very touchy. Many SSB operators prefer to use the mod kit available from Elecraft to widen the SSB filter out more like other rigs for better overall sound and ease of adjustment. 3) How did you set up your BFO frequencies (CAL FIL)? It has been my experience that using Spectrogram is simply not good enough to know that the setting is optimal. As the SSB manual says, it takes listening to your own signal to make the final tweaks of the BFO settings in most cases. This is especially true when using the 'stock' narrower filter. A little experimenting while listening to your own signal will quickly show you which direction to move the BFO frequencies. 4) How old is your SSB module? Some of the very early modules had crystals that were even tighter than the current crop. Some produced bandwidths well under 2kHz and it was simply impossible to set up the SSB board for good audio. That issue was addressed several years ago, but if you have an early board that you are only now putting to work on SSB, that might be the case. Spectrogram will show you the overall filter bandwidth. Regarding drive level: Are you seeing ALC action on all bands? Press and hold DISPLAY RF/ALC to switch between RF output and ALC action. The bar graph reads backwards (right-to-left) in ALC mode. If even one bar of ALC is flickering, you have plenty of drive from the mic - enough that the K2 is automatically reducing the gain to prevent over-driving. If not, then raising the value of R14 can help. There are other possible mods to increase the drive shown on the Elecraft web site. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KSB2 off frequency?
John, I must ask - how did the receiving station know he was actually tuned to your frequency if he did not tune for the best sounding voice. If both of you were relying on the indicated frequency of the tranceiver, there are two places for error to creep in - his transceiver calibration and your K2 dial calibration - either are suspect - amateur transceivers are not precision frequency counters and you said the error was only 40 Hz. Be aware that 20 Hz accuracy is about the best that you can expect from the K2 and many other transceivers even when they are properly calibrated. Before you do anything, I suggest that you check the dial calibration on your K2 against WWV. 40 Hz is not a lot - if it were 400 Hz, that might be something to be concerned about, but 40 Hz is almost 'on frequency'. You will likely have to tune WWV with precision, and the only way I know to get closer than 30 Hz is to use Spectrogram to observe the 500 and 600 Hz tones. Perhaps some folks with perfect pitch can get closer than 30 Hz, but I certainly can't without a pitch measurement tool. If you find your Dial Calibration OK, then yes you can shift the BFO by 40 Hz and correct your problem. Should you find your Dial Calibration off, you should start from the beginning step of setting the 4 MHz reference. If you need guidance in doing that as well as setting the filters/BFOs, you can find additional information and suggested procedures at my website http://w3fpr.qrpradio.com 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- I continue to struggle to get my KSB2 to sound as good as other rigs. I've heard other K2s on the air and know it's my individual problem. I was testing today on 7265 LSB trying out two different mikes - Elecraft MD2 and Ten Tec 706. The station listening said: - the Ten Tec has no lows and lower output - the MD2 sounds too bassy and muffled - the MD2 sounds fine if he tunes up 40 hz from my frequency Based on this, I recorded both from the audio on a separate receiver. I agreed, the MD2 sounded bad on frequency, but sounded normal if I tuned up about 40 hz. The Ten Tec had no lows and changing frequency made little difference. But, it took more voice to trip the VOX with the Ten Tec. Would this be due to my filter setup? Will adjusting the OP1 filter bring my transmit frequency back? Do I need to move the filter up or down? Will changing KSB2 R14 from 1k to 2-3K help the Ten Tec mike drive the KSB2? All help greatly appreciated. 73 de NA8M John ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KSB2 misbehavior
Thanks for the replies to my earlier post - can someone confirm that when cycling through SSbC from 1-1 to 4-1 what the states of the three compressor pins COMP0/COMP1/COMP2 are please? They start all high for SSBC 1-1, then COMP2 goes low, then COMP2 + COMP1, until all three are low for SSBC 4-1 (max compression). 73 Sverre LA3ZA http://www.qslnet.de/la3za/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KSB2 Mic Configuration
Fred, Yes some of the computer cable connectors are too high. If you are wiring for the Elecraft configuration, you can use the 2 pin computer type jumpers (available from RS, Mouser, scrounged from your local computer dealer, etc.). Even if you are not using the Elecraft pinout, many of the pins still wire straight across (except for the Yaesu mic pinout). If you have the tool and wire, wire-wrapping is a good option too. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Anyone have a source for short jumper plugs for the mic config header in the K2? I have some from a microprocessor project, however the part that goes on the pin is too long to fit between the front panel and control board. I'm hoping to avoid soldering jumpers to the header pins (which I already know isn't the easiest or prettiest of tasks). 73, Fred K6DGW Auburn CA CM98lw -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.323 / Virus Database: 267.8.13/47 - Release Date: 7/12/2005 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 SSB ADAPTER ASSEMBLY AND OPERATING INSTRUCTION - BOTTOM OF PAGE 10 HELP PLEASE
They're missing. There should be a 12 pin male and two 3 pin male connectors on the KSB2. All three mate with jacks on the RF board. On Sat, 25 Jun 2005 22:00:43 -0500, kc4eyf [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: KC4EYF HERE K2#4877 After a long Break on Building and playing a little cw with k2 I am building ksb2 ssb board. Im at page 10 and installed 7 crystals,now the next step says(install 3-pin male connectores p2 and p3. There is not any 3 pin connectors in ssb kit,Are they used or are they missing. Need veteran k2 HELP. Thanks kc4eyf $4.95/mo. National Dialup, Anti-Spam, Anti-Virus, 5mb personal web space. 5x faster dialup for only $9.95/mo. No contracts, No fees, No Kidding! See http://www.All2Easy.net for more details! ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 Parts ID
Fred, Those are the same parts I had with my KSB2. The CTSK 045161473 is called out in the parts list as 61473 for RP5. The '6X-2-202 B02242 part I used for RP3, trusting that the only part left was the correct part. The KDSB seems to work, but I've never used one before, so what do I know. I'll watch this space for further info... On Mon, 20 Jun 2005 20:24:00 -0700, Fred Jensen [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I'm starting to build the SSB adapter for my K2 (#4398), and I have a parts ID question: I appear to be missing RP3 and RP5 as listed in the parts list, but I have two 6-pin RP's labelled CTSK 045161473 and 6X-2-202 B02242 yet to be accounted for. I strongly suspect these are my missing RP's ... true? Fred K6DGW Auburn CA CM98lw ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KSB2 firmware
Brent Wrote... I am in the process of building my new KPA100. I need to determine The KSB2 firmware revision. Is there a way to do that? Looking at the little sticker on the chip, it reads 104. I have my doubts about that being the firmware revision. I need to have revision 1.06 or later. Brent, The following excerpt is from page 101 of the Rev. F K2 Owner's Manual (dated January 29, 2004) Firmware Revision Numbers You can check the K2's main microcontroller and I/O controller firmware revisions by holding in any switch on powerup. Two numbers will then be displayed briefly. For example, you might see 2.04P1.09. The first number is the main microcontroller's firmware revision and letter suffix. The second number is the I/O controller's firmware revision. The KAT2 or KAT100 firmware revision is one of the parameters in the ATU submenu, e.g. F1.00. The KPA100 firmware revision can be found in the PA submenu. The KSB2 firmware revision can be obtained by first setting the SSBA menu entry to BAL, then holding the VOX switch. (Return the SSBA menu entry to its normal setting after checking the firmware revision.) The firmware revisions for other options may also be accessible; refer to the individual option manuals. Gary, KI4GGX K2 #4067 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 406 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Try www.SPAMfighter.com for free now! ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 firmware
Thanks for the help...My KSB2 firmware revision is in fact 1.04. So I will have to upgrade it. Again thanks very much for the help. Brent WB4X - Original Message - From: Gary Hvizdak [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Sunday, April 17, 2005 9:19 AM Subject: RE: [Elecraft] KSB2 firmware Brent Wrote... I am in the process of building my new KPA100. I need to determine The KSB2 firmware revision. Is there a way to do that? Looking at the ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 firmware
The KSB2 firmware revision can be obtained by first setting the SSBA menu entry to BAL, then holding the VOX switch. (Return the SSBA menu entry to its normal setting after checking the firmware revision.) Well, I had never read this procedure before, so I gave it a try. SSBA entry to BAL, then held VOX and got . . . nothing. Is there something else that need be done? thanks, dave belsley, w1euy ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 firmware
In a message dated 17/04/05 16:25:51 GMT Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Well, I had never read this procedure before, so I gave it a try. SSBA entry to BAL, then held VOX and got . . . nothing. Reply: -- Try activating BAL mode, go back to frequency display and then press VOX. Mine gives a display of 1.08 for a second or so then before reverting to frequency. Bob, G3VVT ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KSB2 Problem: Big attenuation of received signals SOLVED
Thanks for the suggestions. I followed them all. I found some 27 AWG red enamel wire and re-wound RFC1 2, and I believe this is what fixed my problem. The enamel on the wire that came with the KSB2 kit, seemed to shear off with the sharp edges of the toroid cores, and this may have been causing a short to the crystal can. The new wire seemed to be a little thinner, even though it was smaller guage (27 vs. 28 - go figure), and the enamel seemed to stay on it a little better. Perhaps the enamel on the new wire was thinner. The KSB2 option is now installed, aligned, and working! Thanks, -Andrew KF7HB --- Ron D'Eau Claire [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: The problem is that the receiver became very quiet. I could still hear the strongest signals if I turn the AF Gain way up, and instead of S9 on the meter, they're way down to S1. The KSB2 manual specifically states (page 15, final step of initial test) this should not happen, and if it does, to go to the troubleshooting section. Andrew: Don's suggestions are right on track. I have one to add, assuming this is a new build. Check for d-c continuity from each pin of each crystal to ground. It should be an open circuit for d-c. If not then most likely you used enough solder to form a small fillet around the pad. On the crystal side of the pad, the fillet easily shorts the signal path to the crystal case and so to ground. If so, then remove the crystal involved, clean off the solder, the carefully replace it, using a minimum of solder. (Note that you have jumpers across a couple of capacitor locations, so a short there will require that you open the jumper to see which crystal is involved). Ron AC7AC __ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new resources site! http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/resources/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KSB2 Problem: Big attenuation of received signals
Andrew, Plug the KSB2 in again and be certain that it is properly positioned on the headers. It is easy to misplug the KSB2 - if you see the standoff and TP2 properly aligned with the holes in the SSB board, it probably is mounted correctly. As a check (but not a permanent fix) slide a small sheet of paper between RFC1 and RFC2 and the adjacent crystal cans. That is a quick check of whether or not the windings of the chokes are shorting to the crystals - if they are, rewind the chokes being careful not to scrape the insulation on the wire. Check the orientation of the diodes - all of them should have the banded end away from the board. Lastly (or maybe best doen first) check the soldering carefully, particularly in the crystal filter area. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- The problem is that the receiver became very quiet. I could still hear the strongest signals if I turn the AF Gain way up, and instead of S9 on the meter, they're way down to S1. The KSB2 manual specifically states (page 15, final step of initial test) this should not happen, and if it does, to go to the troubleshooting section. I confirmed about half of the DC measurements in the troubleshooting section. I noticed when I jiggle around RFC2 I get some noise in the receiver, and those little RFC1 2 toroids on the KSB board were a challenge to wind, so I'm wondering if I have a problem there. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 Problem: Big attenuation of received signals
Andrew Meier wrote: I noticed when I jiggle around RFC2 I get some noise in the receiver, and those little RFC1 2 toroids on the KSB board were a challenge to wind, so I'm wondering if I have a problem there. Be sure to check for PTTL (Poorly Tinned Toroid Leads). -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KSB2 Problem: Big attenuation of received signals
The problem is that the receiver became very quiet. I could still hear the strongest signals if I turn the AF Gain way up, and instead of S9 on the meter, they're way down to S1. The KSB2 manual specifically states (page 15, final step of initial test) this should not happen, and if it does, to go to the troubleshooting section. Andrew: Don's suggestions are right on track. I have one to add, assuming this is a new build. Check for d-c continuity from each pin of each crystal to ground. It should be an open circuit for d-c. If not then most likely you used enough solder to form a small fillet around the pad. On the crystal side of the pad, the fillet easily shorts the signal path to the crystal case and so to ground. If so, then remove the crystal involved, clean off the solder, the carefully replace it, using a minimum of solder. (Note that you have jumpers across a couple of capacitor locations, so a short there will require that you open the jumper to see which crystal is involved). Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KSB2
Ci, Very little has been changed in the KSB2 board but some folks did change some resistors around, so I would recommend that you download the KSB2 manual from the Elecraft site and compare all the resistors and capacitors (particularly C38) with your board. Look especially for changes in the ALC area - this may be a very early board and have the old values in that area (the C38 value should tell you) - if you need those ALC parts, Elecraft has a kit of them - 'PSK31 mod for the KSB2' or something similar to that. The headers that are to be installed on the RF board will need to be added as well as the components on your Front Panel Board - the KSB2 manual has all the information you should need for ordering the extra parts (don't forget the mounting standoff, screws and lockwashers) and installing the KSB2. A new set of crystals will produce a filter with a flatter passband, and if you want to change the bandwidth (your board is the older narrow 2.1 kHz width), do it while changing the crystals just because it is easier that way. If you have the KPA100 or the K60XV in your K2 you will want to update the firmware (yours is version 1.02). That is about all the help I can be short of saying that I would do all of that just in case, but the choice is yours - you said your interest was mainly CW! 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- I just got a bargain KSB2 for my K2 (#4615). It was delivered to the seller 12/5/99. Do I need to make any changes before I install it in my K2. Any advice will be appreciated. U1 has the following numbers on it - PIC16C72 - 04/SP and 9852HAN, Also it has a little tag hand written saying SSB 102. I don't plan to use anything but CW, but thought it should be something I should have, and the price was right. Thanks, Ci Ci Jones (K2 - 4615, K1 - 933, KX1 - 957) WU7R FISTS 10789 NAQCC 306 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2-Filter Measurements
VR2BrettGraham wrote: An INRAD CW filter for the K2 is already available, but W2VJN suggested to me I might not want to buy one as it's hard to use - no ability to select it - so no point in doing more than a limited production run call them prototypes. Even then, the cost was not far into the USD three-digit range - easily justified based on the expectation of what it could do, but perhaps a bit too dear seeing how it ended up in the junk box (being stuck having to always listen through the INRAD filter equally wasn't on). ...and also it hasn't been possible to take advantage of the filter characteristics, as far as I know. I have one of these prototypes in my junk box because even by hard-wiring it into the circuit I was unable to get sufficient isolation to reduce the blow-by to an acceptable degree. The stock filter arrangement is better. George (JVN) did some work, but I don't know if he found a way to use it successfully. -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2-Filter Measurements
G3RXQ shared with us some measurements he made commented: This performance was very much better than I expected. The passband has, however about a 2dB ripple in it. I think it is this ripple that makes using my K2 on SSB seem tiring to listen to as compared to other rigs. Reducing the bandwidth on the K2 makes it even more tiring as compared to other radios that derive variable bandwidth filtering with two filters the usual IF gymnastics. G3RXQ's comment that the KSB's filter working about as well as it is probably spot on. The same could probably be said for the CW filter. The ripple - along with ultimate rejection (either due to filter or layout) - could be much better become obvious when using the K2 in more demanding situations. After a weekend of contesting, I get a headache listening to a TS-950S - but I just can't pull some things through on the K2 that I can with the 950 fitted with decent after-market filters. Even with the nasty high-frequency crud that comes from its SCAF CW audio filter, I find I gravitate towards the 950 more than the K2 as my running rig. Whilst there are number of things about the 950 that stick out as being inferior to the K2 (like phase noise), IMHO the filters make a big difference - making me wonder what a K2 would be like if we could INRAD it like other rigs. Again, maybe not an issue for some, depending on one's operating interests. I agree with W3ICT - such criticisms come only because the K2 is a history making radio in most other respects. 73, VR2BrettGraham ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KSB2-Filter Measurements
-Original Message- ... - but I just can't pull some things through on the K2 that I can with the 950 fitted with decent after-market filters. Comparing the K2 to any other rig outfitted with after-market filters is not really a fair comparison. It does make me wonder how the K2 would do with similar after-market filters -- alas, those filters do not seem to exist. With almost 5000 K2s out there now, I wonder if InRad is having second thoughts about providing filters for the K2 - it may require a non-SSB K2 to fit them in physically, and with the small market created by that simple fact, they may still not be interested. Actually, the filters on the K2 are not shabby by any means, but like most anything else, could be improved with sufficient bucks and effort. 73, Don W3FPR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KSB2 Problem
Neal, The Hi-Cur messages are likely not due to the KSB2 installation. Torubleshoot the Hi-CUR problem first. The Hi-CUR problem is most likely associated with either the Low Pass filter, OR a problem with the RF detection and the related transmit ALC. Do you get the Hi-CUR warnings at all settings of the Power Control? Do the Hi-CUR messages appear on only some bands? Do you get the Hi-CUR messages in CW mode, or only in SSB mode? The answer to those questions will tell where to begin looking for the problem. Orientation of Q2 - one side is slightly rounded (or rather the corners are 'cut off'), and that is the only real way to tell which side is which. Do not rely on which side is silver (and contains the labeling) - I believe that point is made clear in the K2 manual. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- I am trying to install the KSBS2 into my K2. Problem symptoms are that I get the Hi Current warning, plus I get no variance on my separate receiver when trying the fine balancing. The rest of the alignment went okay, SSBA on BAL gave me good nulls with tweaking R1 both on USB and LSB (I just cannot hear any null with the receiver. I get a very strong carrier (S9+) on my separate receiver with SSBA at 3. Doing the voltage checks on rx, everything looks okay with the exception of: U1, pin 22 - 5.6v instead of 0.2 U2, pin 5 - 5.95v instead of 0.6 U3, pin 6 - 1.4v instead of 0 U4, pin 3 - 5.95 instead of 0.6 Since I get the hi cur warning I have not tried any tx voltage measurements. I looked at the archives and saw some people put RF board Q2 in backwards but the 'silver' side is facing the front of the rig. Any ideas? N ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KSB2 Problem
Neal, A normal K2 will have more gain on 40 and 30 meters than on the other bands. I would check the LPF for those bands carefully - number of turns on the toroids (count the times the wire goes through the center - counting the outside turns often results in a toroid with an extra turn), then check each capacitor for proper value, and check the soldering. i.e. The current draw on 40 meters will normally be lower than that for other bands - fix that problem first and your other conditions may just 'go away'. The KSB2 can sometimes reduce the overall gain through the transmit chain, which will cause a higher current draw for a given power output. Don't be overly concerned about it until you have the KSB2 operating properly at lower power. (the KSB2 has no band dependency, but it can influence the gain of the transmit chain - so check the soldering there too and check the values of the resistors on the bottom of the KSB2 for proper values) - not saying there is necessarily a problem in the KSB2, I am just pointing out how things normally work. Even though your current draw is high, it will usually cause no harm (other than possibly overloading your power supply, so if you need to do testing at full power output, you can easily bump up the CAL CUR setting in the menu to get rid of the message while you troubleshoot the real cause of the increased current draw. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Hi Don The Hi Cur was not happening before (on CW). I also installed the noise blanker yesterday and did some CW so I think prior to inserting the KSB2 it was okay. The Hi cur only happens on 40m SSB. On CW at full output it varies from 3.3 (on 80 40) to 2.8 (on the rest of the bands). So, its only 40m SSB. Sorry about the confusion on the Q2 orientation, I read that in one of the archive emails. It looks like its installed correctly to me, in viewing from directly above it. Any clues? Neal ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 problem status: befuddled
Hi all, Thanks for giving some ideas! I checked the resistors on the bottom of the ssb board, they are all correct. I must say that trying to identify parts on the top of the board is a real challenge, its so stuffed that its almost impossible! Don, I redid the output amperage at 10 watts: 80 - 2.68 40 - 2.72 30 - 2.28 20 - 1.96 17 - 2.42 15 - 2.50 12 - 2.24 10 - 2.16 At 10 watts on 40, the voltage on rx is 13.5 on tx its 12.9. The group is right, I did not notice the power output on lower than 17m (which is 15 watts). On 15 through 10, highest output is 13.3 watts. Do I still need to investigate the 40m current usage? Do I need to replace the 3 resistors and jumper that I pulled out to eliminate the noise blanker module from the mix of things to investigate? I should have done one module and waited to know it worked before doing a second one! Neal On Feb 21, 2005, at 5:37 PM, W3FPR - Don Wilhelm wrote: Neal, There may be nothing wrong with 40 meters after all - I had missed the point that you were setting the Power control to absolute max. What is your power supply voltage? 13.8 volts is typical (13.6 on the display), and lower power supply voltages will result in increased current draw. What is the voltage when you are seeing a current of 3 amps or greater? I don't have a straightforward answer here. Can it be that your Carrier Balance is not correctly set and you are really generating more RF drive with SSB than with CW? It is not really a fair comparison to compare current draw from band to band with the Power control set all the way clockwise. Set it to 10 watts and check the current drawn for each band and both CW and SSB modes. Actually SSB mode should draw little current without audio if the carrier is balanced because there should be little or no RF output. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Hi Don and all, I have spent the afternoon looking for where I could have made a mistake on the 40m LPF circuit. I didn't find any obvious ones, the toroids came from 'The guy de Toroids' but I counted them all anyway, and they are (luckily!) correct. Same for capacitors. Did the run of voltage checks and didn't notice anything really wrong. On cw, cranking the output knob to the max, the display readings for current are 80 3.22 40 3.36 30 2.84 20 2.38 17 3.08 15 2.84 12 2.62 10 2.42 Output reads over 15 watts in all cases, usually abt 15.2. This reads pretty much the same with or without the SSB module installed. I take it from your comments that the fact that 40m is the highest cw reading, its indicative of something wrong. Looked at LPF and BPF areas. What should I expect on the amp readings, 2.35 on 40 and a gradual increase as I go towards 10m? I could reinstall the resistors and jumper and take out the noise blanker module as thats something put in yesterday, I take it that I need to do that if I want to test without it? I have boosted cal cur to 4.0 and still can get hi cur signal with output fully counterclockwise on both usb and lsb. I have been very happy working cw all week as it is (set the cal cur to 3.5 and it hasn't tripped yet). Any more ideas to look at? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KSB2 problem status: befuddled
Your current readings don't look out of hand to me! 40 is normally higher because that is the band that usually produces the greatest RF output. Your readings are consistent with my K2. Interesting that you say the output reads over 15 watts in all cases,... Few K2's make 15 watts on 10. Many are capable just over 10. When they do produce more power they draw more current. The current is proportional to the actual power output. The maximum power output varies according to the overall RF gain available in the transmitter strip and that tends to be highest in the 7-10 MHz range. So in that range the current draw is the highest too. Your current draw on 10 meters is consistent with an output of just about 10 watts output wide open. I don't see how that's connected to your overcurrent with the SSB module plugged in, but it's an anomaly. Have you confirmed that your K2 internal current sensor is accurate by putting an ammeter in the lead from the external power supply? If it's okay, then there's little else but for your SSB module itself to be making up the extra current draw. Something on that module is drawing more current than it should. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- Hi Don and all, I have spent the afternoon looking for where I could have made a mistake on the 40m LPF circuit. I didn't find any obvious ones, the toroids came from 'The guy de Toroids' but I counted them all anyway, and they are (luckily!) correct. Same for capacitors. Did the run of voltage checks and didn't notice anything really wrong. On cw, cranking the output knob to the max, the display readings for current are 80 3.22 40 3.36 30 2.84 20 2.38 17 3.08 15 2.84 12 2.62 10 2.42 Output reads over 15 watts in all cases, usually abt 15.2. This reads pretty much the same with or without the SSB module installed. I take it from your comments that the fact that 40m is the highest cw reading, its indicative of something wrong. Looked at LPF and BPF areas. What should I expect on the amp readings, 2.35 on 40 and a gradual increase as I go towards 10m? I could reinstall the resistors and jumper and take out the noise blanker module as thats something put in yesterday, I take it that I need to do that if I want to test without it? I have boosted cal cur to 4.0 and still can get hi cur signal with output fully counterclockwise on both usb and lsb. I have been very happy working cw all week as it is (set the cal cur to 3.5 and it hasn't tripped yet). Any more ideas to look at? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 Problem
In a message dated 21/02/05 14:53:44 GMT Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I am trying to install the KSBS2 into my K2. Problem symptoms are that I get the Hi Current warning, plus I get no variance on my separate receiver when trying the fine balancing. The rest of the alignment went okay, SSBA on BAL gave me good nulls with tweaking R1 both on USB and LSB (I just cannot hear any null with the receiver. I get a very strong carrier (S9+) on my separate receiver with SSBA at 3. --- It has not come up in any replies to your question, but it looks that you may be getting problems with RF into your microphone socket and the KSB2 audio input. Are the KSB2 tests being carried out into a good 50 ohm dummy load? There have been various methods described on the list for combatting problems of RF getting into the microphone input, the main one being to provide a ground on the microphone socket outer. Bob, G3VVT ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KSB2 problem status: befuddled
Neal, Taking things in reverse order - go ahead and put the Noise Blanker itself back in rather than the 6 dB pad resistors. It will only affect the receive path and not the Transmit path. OK - your current draw at a constant 10 Watts output looks just fine to me. It is a bit unusual that your minimum current draw for 10 watts out is at 20 meters - usually that will occur at 40 or 30 meters - but this does not look like a real problem to me (actually it indicates better efficiency than normal on the higher bands). so now that still leaves us with the original problem of excessive current draw in SSB mode. Actually something is 'fishy' here, because an SSB signal with no audio will result in very little output power (and quite low current draw). So my thinking now is that you do not have the SSB balance set properly - or there is something incorrect on the KSB2 board. I know it is difficult to do, but do look again - particularly at the balanced modulator and those things shown around it in the schematic. It does now seem that your problems are coming from the KSB2. Just as a wild guess I must ask - did you remove C167 from the RF board when installing the KSB2? If you fail to remove it, that alone could explain the conditions you are seeing. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Hi all, Thanks for giving some ideas! I checked the resistors on the bottom of the ssb board, they are all correct. I must say that trying to identify parts on the top of the board is a real challenge, its so stuffed that its almost impossible! Don, I redid the output amperage at 10 watts: 80 - 2.68 40 - 2.72 30 - 2.28 20 - 1.96 17 - 2.42 15 - 2.50 12 - 2.24 10 - 2.16 At 10 watts on 40, the voltage on rx is 13.5 on tx its 12.9. The group is right, I did not notice the power output on lower than 17m (which is 15 watts). On 15 through 10, highest output is 13.3 watts. Do I still need to investigate the 40m current usage? Do I need to replace the 3 resistors and jumper that I pulled out to eliminate the noise blanker module from the mix of things to investigate? I should have done one module and waited to know it worked before doing a second one! Neal On Feb 21, 2005, at 5:37 PM, W3FPR - Don Wilhelm wrote: Neal, There may be nothing wrong with 40 meters after all - I had missed the point that you were setting the Power control to absolute max. What is your power supply voltage? 13.8 volts is typical (13.6 on the display), and lower power supply voltages will result in increased current draw. What is the voltage when you are seeing a current of 3 amps or greater? I don't have a straightforward answer here. Can it be that your Carrier Balance is not correctly set and you are really generating more RF drive with SSB than with CW? It is not really a fair comparison to compare current draw from band to band with the Power control set all the way clockwise. Set it to 10 watts and check the current drawn for each band and both CW and SSB modes. Actually SSB mode should draw little current without audio (if the carrier is balanced because there should be little or no RF output. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Hi Don and all, I have spent the afternoon looking for where I could have made a mistake on the 40m LPF circuit. I didn't find any obvious ones, the toroids came from 'The guy de Toroids' but I counted them all anyway, and they are (luckily!) correct. Same for capacitors. Did the run of voltage checks and didn't notice anything really wrong. On cw, cranking the output knob to the max, the display readings for current are 80 3.22 40 3.36 30 2.84 20 2.38 17 3.08 15 2.84 12 2.62 10 2.42 Output reads over 15 watts in all cases, usually abt 15.2. This reads pretty much the same with or without the SSB module installed. I take it from your comments that the fact that 40m is the highest cw reading, its indicative of something wrong. Looked at LPF and BPF areas. What should I expect on the amp readings, 2.35 on 40 and a gradual increase as I go towards 10m? I could reinstall the resistors and jumper and take out the noise blanker module as thats something put in yesterday, I take it that I need to do that if I want to test without it? I have boosted cal cur to 4.0 and still can get hi cur signal with output fully counterclockwise on both usb and lsb. I have been very happy working cw all week as it is (set the cal cur to 3.5 and it hasn't tripped yet). Any more ideas to look at? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KSB2 problem status: befuddled
Neal, Just an additional note - I usually adjust the SSB Carrier balance by looking at the RF output (with no audio signal) with my 'scope - I adjust the carrier balance for minimum power output (compromising if necessary between USB and LSB). You should find the proper point near the mid-point setting of the carrier balance pot. If it is not near the midpoint, look for some component misplaced or improper soldering. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Taking things in reverse order - go ahead and put the Noise Blanker itself back in rather than the 6 dB pad resistors. It will only affect the receive path and not the Transmit path. OK - your current draw at a constant 10 Watts output looks just fine to me. It is a bit unusual that your minimum current draw for 10 watts out is at 20 meters - usually that will occur at 40 or 30 meters - but this does not look like a real problem to me (actually it indicates better efficiency than normal on the higher bands). so now that still leaves us with the original problem of excessive current draw in SSB mode. Actually something is 'fishy' here, because an SSB signal with no audio will result in very little output power (and quite low current draw). So my thinking now is that you do not have the SSB balance set properly - or there is something incorrect on the KSB2 board. I know it is difficult to do, but do look again - particularly at the balanced modulator and those things shown around it in the schematic. It does now seem that your problems are coming from the KSB2. Just as a wild guess I must ask - did you remove C167 from the RF board when installing the KSB2? If you fail to remove it, that alone could explain the conditions you are seeing. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Hi all, Thanks for giving some ideas! I checked the resistors on the bottom of the ssb board, they are all correct. I must say that trying to identify parts on the top of the board is a real challenge, its so stuffed that its almost impossible! Don, I redid the output amperage at 10 watts: 80 - 2.68 40 - 2.72 30 - 2.28 20 - 1.96 17 - 2.42 15 - 2.50 12 - 2.24 10 - 2.16 At 10 watts on 40, the voltage on rx is 13.5 on tx its 12.9. The group is right, I did not notice the power output on lower than 17m (which is 15 watts). On 15 through 10, highest output is 13.3 watts. Do I still need to investigate the 40m current usage? Do I need to replace the 3 resistors and jumper that I pulled out to eliminate the noise blanker module from the mix of things to investigate? I should have done one module and waited to know it worked before doing a second one! Neal On Feb 21, 2005, at 5:37 PM, W3FPR - Don Wilhelm wrote: Neal, There may be nothing wrong with 40 meters after all - I had missed the point that you were setting the Power control to absolute max. What is your power supply voltage? 13.8 volts is typical (13.6 on the display), and lower power supply voltages will result in increased current draw. What is the voltage when you are seeing a current of 3 amps or greater? I don't have a straightforward answer here. Can it be that your Carrier Balance is not correctly set and you are really generating more RF drive with SSB than with CW? It is not really a fair comparison to compare current draw from band to band with the Power control set all the way clockwise. Set it to 10 watts and check the current drawn for each band and both CW and SSB modes. Actually SSB mode should draw little current without audio (if the carrier is balanced because there should be little or no RF output. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Hi Don and all, I have spent the afternoon looking for where I could have made a mistake on the 40m LPF circuit. I didn't find any obvious ones, the toroids came from 'The guy de Toroids' but I counted them all anyway, and they are (luckily!) correct. Same for capacitors. Did the run of voltage checks and didn't notice anything really wrong. On cw, cranking the output knob to the max, the display readings for current are 80 3.22 40 3.36 30 2.84 20 2.38 17 3.08 15 2.84 12 2.62 10 2.42 Output reads over 15 watts in all cases, usually abt 15.2. This reads pretty much the same with or without the SSB module installed. I take it from your comments that the fact that 40m is the highest cw reading, its indicative of something wrong. Looked at LPF and BPF areas. What should I expect on the amp readings, 2.35 on 40 and a gradual increase as I go towards 10m? I could reinstall the resistors and jumper and take out the noise blanker module as thats something put in yesterday, I take it that I need to do that if I want to test without it? I have boosted cal cur to 4.0 and still can get
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 Question
Off List Reply Follows - copied to the reflector Hi Jeff. I don't have the schematics in front of me but some of the crystal filter capacitors were changed in the later revisions to widen the response from about 2.1 KC (actually measured about 1.9 at 6 dB down points on mine) to about 2.4 KC. These caps are a part of the xtal lattice filter and are identified on the schematic as CA, CB, etc. The old standard was the approximate 2.1 kc width and the new standard is the 2.4 kc width (maybe it was 2.3 - something like that). As I recall, a couple of other changes were made - a couple of resistors and an electrolytic capacitor - and additionally, enhanced xtals were available and still are as matched sets. Just my 2 cents but I'd change the xtal lattice caps to the new values now during initial construction. Removing those caps is a real pain later - this from experience as I've done it a total of 3 times to get various widths. All in all, the 2.4 width is very nice! As for the matched xtal set, I did change out mine and noticed no difference at all. Others have reported that it did make a big difference. Hope that helps - 73 es have fun --Don N4HH K2/100/KAT100 #2028, etc, etc My question is regarding the current Rev. F. as compared to my Rev. D. I noticed that some component values are different, but the board layout looks the same. I assume that the values have been optimized. Is this an accurate assessment? Can I simply change the values to the Rev F values? Should I just stick with the Rev D values that originally came in my kit? Jeff - VA3JFF K2 #3375 KX1 #631 Canadian QRP Award: http://www3.sympatico.ca/wjhetherington/cqa.htm -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.8.3 - Release Date: 1/31/05 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KSB2 Capacitors
John, Those capacitor value changes will change the filter bandwidth from the older 2.1 kHz bandwidth to the newer 2.3 kHz width - nothing but the capacitors need be changed. That is the only change (and it is equivalent to the KI6WX filter bandwidth mod). Yes, I do recommend it - unless you want the slight increase in audio punch that the narrower bandwidth provides, that may be important to you if most of your SSB operation is at QRP levels. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- I have a KSB2 kit supplied about 11 months ago. The instructions are Revision D. I see there is a Revision E on the website. The only difference appears to be the lettered capacitors CA, CB etc in the xtal filter which have changed in value. Should I obtain caps of the revised value to fit or is the change associated with a change in the xtals spec? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 set up filter question
Jerry, If you have previously set up your CW filters and BFOs- do not change them (unless you find you want to later on). Do initially set up the SSB filters and BFOs as indicated - that will get you up and running, Then refine the BFOs (and filter widths) to your tastes, remembering that the FL1 BFO is the one used for transmitting and that should be set to best match your voice during transmit by listening on a separate receiver. You can find some information on how to set up the filters on my website www.qsl.net/w3fpr - look at the article on K2 Dial Calibration and you will find the CAL FIL information in Step 3 of that article. 73, Don W3FPR - Original Message - Just finished installing the SSB adapter into my K2 (#4472) and on page 20 step 3 it says to set up my filter exactly as shown in Table 3. My question is . Why do I have to change the ones for CW and CW reverse? I guess I just don't understand how these filters work. I plan to run mostly Digital modes, but will use Voice occasionally. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 and SSBA settings?
I have a KSB2 and MH2 that I just completed as well. I got a report of low audio from my one SSB contact so far, F5PFP in Lyons, France, and the vox seems hard to trigger. I was running my K5OOR amp on 17m, so somewhere between 25 and 40W expected output, though I don't have a PEP meter (yet) so I don't know for real. I am unsure of how to make sense of a report of low audio on SSB--how is that different from low power? I had the mic gain set at 3 and the compresion at 3:1. I noticed the current draw was 0.24-0.26A before and 0.40 after, so I removed the KSB2 board and checked and cleaned it, but no change. Then I slide some paper between the RFCs and the filter XTALs and the draw went down to 0.28, all according to the internal meter. I removed the paper and still about the same. So I dunno. The vox is not very sensitive, and almost impossible to trigger with the 10dB attenuator (SSBa 1) in place, and difficult with SSBa 3, though I haven't tried Vox again since my paper trick. I will try it again...I almost called Art Bell on 75M on Saturday night to ask for a mic check but he then said he was going QRT to do his show... Leigh WA5ZNU ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 toroids (T1 T2)
Hi, Brian- It is fine to allow the secondary windings of KSB2 T1,T2 to nest with their respective primary windings. In other words, listen to your instincts and wind them in the same direction. In this instance, the sense of the primary in relation to its secondary is unimportant. 73, Mychael AA3WF K2 #1025 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
