Re: Stus-List Fwd: Transmission problem??

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

What kind of engine and transmission?That will be important for us to help you 
with the diagnosis. Bruce Sent from Samsung tablet.
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Re: Stus-List Unidentified clunk when motoring - 1995 C 37/40+

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

That actually seems to make sense,  as we moved some of the exhaust hose around 
as part of dealing with a cracked hose issue and I might have it too close to 
the underside of the transom.Worth looking into!Bruce Sent from Samsung tablet.
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Re: Stus-List Source for Water Tank for C 32?

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Kracor however will no longer sell to individuals  There is a place in Ft. 
Lauderdale where you can order the caps and such, but I'm not sure if you can 
order tanks through them.Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
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Re: Stus-List Source for Water Tank for C 32?

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Welding the tank is really quite easy, presuming the material is white, semi - 
translucent plastic, meaning that it is made of Low Density Polyethelene 
(LDPE).  I tried the heat-blowing plastic welding kit from Harbor Freight, and 
in retrospect would use the one without the fan which looks more like a stick 
soldering iron with a paddle or disk tip.  The key is to get LDPE stock from 
Amazon or somewhere else, and get more than you think you will need.  High 
Density Polyethelene (HDPE) can be found all around your house in the form of 
bleach bottles, etc., but HDPE will not stick to LDPE, so don't even bother 
thinking that all polyethelene is the same.There are a lot of videos out there 
on welding plastic tanks, because farmers, landscaping firms, etc. use the same 
material for tanks you see on the back of trucks and tractors.  Finally, if 
you're concerned about the crack returning, you can even weld in a layer of 
stainless steel mesh for reinforcement.  We did this on Astralis.  It gave me 
peace of mind that I won't have to do the repair again.Finally, for those of 
you who have issues with the cap/inspection port gasket leaking, go to 
McMaster-Carr and get X orings.  The X configuration makes the caps seal 
properly, and then you can fill the tanks all the way up without worrying about 
them leaking into the bilge.Hope this helps,Bruce Whitmore1994 C 
37/40+"Astralis"Madeira Beach, FLSent from Samsung tablet.
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Re: Stus-List 37/40 forward sink drain valve

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Interesting solution i had not considered!  I'll look to see if the fiberglass 
under the cabinet is solid.Thanks!Sent from Samsung tablet.
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Re: Stus-List Cutless/cutlass/strut bearing replacement

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Hi Josh, I was just checking our driveshaft numbers yesterday as I will be 
coming out of the watwe at the end of the month and I want to replace the 
cutlass bearing then.  Our shift measures 1 1/4" as well according to the 
survey, an old worn out folding prop in my garage and a measurement I took 
about 9 months ago.  So. I'm thinking your boat may not be such an anomaly 
after all.  I have no idea what the strut is going to be like.All things being 
equal, I think I would either cut off the excess or align the forard side 
flush, just thinking that the blunter forward edge would be more likely to 
build positive water pressure, thus pushing water into and through the 
bearing.That's just a layman's guess though.Please keep us updated!Bruce 
Whitmore 1994 C 37/40+"Astralis"Sent from Samsung tablet.
 Original message From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 Date: 7/9/20  12:09 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: C List 
 Cc: Josh Muckley  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Cutless/cutlass/strut bearing replacement Well it seems that maybe 
the previous owner has replaced the shaft with a larger size.  A few other 37+ 
owners have stated that their shafts are 1-1/8th whereas mine is 1-1/4.  The 
original shaft would have come with a strut which would accommodate a bearing 
OD of 1-5/8 inch (1-1/8 x 1-5/8 x 4-1/2).  The smallest bearing OD for my 
larger 1-1/4 shaft is 1-3/4 (1-1/4 x 1-3/4 x 5).  It appears that the PO must 
have run into a similar problem with this combination of original strut and 
larger shaft and must have had the bearing turned down to 1-5/8 OD.Now for my 
next question.  After the machinist turned the bearing, he failed to cut it to 
a length of 4-1/2.   The result is a bearing which is 1/2 inch too long for the 
strut.  I can split the difference and leave 1/4 inch sticking out on either 
side of the strut.  Or some other fraction forward and aft.  Currently I have 
about 1/8th forward and 3/8th aft.  I'm not sure if this is good, bad, or 
indifferent and I'd like to get everyone's thoughts.  Cut it off?  Leave it?  
Move it flush on one side or the other?Thanks,Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 
C 37+Solomons, MDOn Mon, Jun 8, 2020, 16:03 Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 wrote:OK folks, I thought I was doing things the right 
way and incorporating all of the years of collective wisdom.  Wrong!  I'm doing 
a drive train rebuild and with the shaft out it only made sense to replace the 
strut bearing as well.  It didn't seem to need it but doing it with the shaft 
out seemed a lot easier than with it in and I know for a fact that the bearing 
is at least 8 years old and probably twice that.  I know I have a 1-1/4 shaft 
and the bearing is pretty thin walled so looking online at the availability of 
bearings it seemed that the only real option was a 1-1/4 x 1-1/2 x 5 inch 
bearing.  That's 1-1/4 ID and 1-1/2 OD.  Basically 1/8 total wall thickness 
(about 1/16th bronze and 1/16th rubber) Well I took it to the boat before 
destroying the old bearing and sure enough it looks like the right size.  Seems 
like it will fit just right.  I went ahead and destroyed the old bearing 
getting it out.  Compared the now destroyed bearing to the new one and again no 
indication of any incorrect size.  Today I brought the new bearing (fresh from 
the freezer) to the boat and much to my dismay it slipped right into the strut 
with no resistance and probably 1/16th of play all the way around.  If I had to 
guess, I would think that it is instead a 1-5/8ths strut not 1-1/2.  Ugh!  So I 
looked online and sure enough the only next closest size is 1-3/4.  That means 
1/4 inch wall thickness (1/8th inch metal, 1/8th rubber). This is when I 
recalled someone else on the list having a similar problem a few years ago.  I 
searched the archives and was unable to find the old post.  I've been to buck 
algonquin and a few other sites and Google searches only to find that the 
bearings jump from 1-1/2 to 1-3/4 with nothing in between.  I'm headed back to 
the boat with a set of calipers but unless it turns out to be a 1-3/4 and my 
eyes are simply due for calibration, I'm afraid I'm running out of options.  I 
know that the bearings can be turned down but that seems costly and 
unnecessary.  I'd like a better idea.All the best, Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk 
1989 C 37+Solomons, MD 
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Re: Stus-List Refinishing cabin floor

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Keep in mind folks that this is a sink in the fore cabin which is only used by 
guests,  and to the best of my knowledge, the sink has never been used other 
than to test it.  There is a galley sink 7 ft. away, as is the sink in the 
head.  If it turns out to be much more expensive, I might keep the seacock, but 
having one I can't really access goes against my grain.  I could, in the 
alternative, put a second back in and simply leave it shut off.However, as long 
as the drain hose goes in the sump where the bilge pump draws from, any limited 
water that went down that sink would be quickly and easily pumped 
overboard.Just weighing my options,BruceSent from Samsung tablet.
 Original message From: dwight veinot via CnC-List 
 Date: 7/8/20  7:42 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: dwight veinot  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Refinishing cabin floor So even if you di the best where is this 
stuff goingOn Wed, Jul 8, 2020 at 8:34 PM David Risch via CnC-List 
 wrote:





Over the side...or a potentially slimy smelly bilge.   Your choice. Me...  I 
would keep the seacock and figure it out.  Your hoses newish?   Hose failure 
rate is low.  As opposed to a consistent bilge soup


  





Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you. 



From: CnC-List  on behalf of dwight veinot via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, July 8, 2020 6:05:07 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: dwight veinot 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Refinishing cabin floor
 



Ok keep it in the bilge. Or???



On Wed, Jul 8, 2020 at 6:19 PM 
David Risch via CnC-List  wrote:




Bruce,
 
Grey water is not great for the bilge.  There is a reason why boats properly 
plumbed, send their shower water and icebox water (also grey water)  over the 
side. 

 

David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650

 


From: CnC-List 
On Behalf Of Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, July 8, 2020 4:30 PM
To: Ken Heaton via CnC-List 
Cc: Bruce Whitmore 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Refinishing cabin floor


 



Hi Ken,










 


That is certainly an option, but I was thinking about simply blocking it off 
because as of now, I have two batteries up under the forward bench.  
Realistically, I won't pull
 out the batteries to open & close the seacock on any regular basis, and if it 
or the hose ever fails, it will be nearly impossible to get to.  As it is, we 
don't use the sink anyway. 



 


I don't like the idea of a seacock I can't access, yet I like using that area 
for an extra house battery. 



 


As far as I'm concerned, I'm OK with just letting it drain into the bilge and 
putting a small sticker there to inform people not to use the sink for anything 
other than washing
 hands or brushing teeth.


 


At least that's what I'm thinking for now,



 


Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net



 


 





On Wednesday, July 8, 2020, 4:22:08 PM EDT, Ken Heaton via CnC-List 

 wrote: 


 


 





Hi Bruce,

 


I'm pretty sure the forward sink won't drain very well, if at all, through the 
thru hull the for galley sink drain.  We tried something like that a few
 years ago and it just air locked and wouldn't drain.


 


A Forespar Marelon replacement sea cock won't cost vey much,  Why don't you 
just have them replace it?


 


Ken H.


 



On Wed, 8 Jul 2020 at 15:43, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
 wrote:






Hi Edd,


 


As it turns out, the quote on the damage to Astralis from the jetski is now 
just over $21,000 not including the dinghy, and the boat won't get in for
 repair until the 29th.  


 


During that time, I want them to redo the bottom and pull the forward sink 
seacock that is frozen and glass over it.  I plan on just having the forward
 sink drain into the bilge or tee it off to the galley sink drain.  I will also 
have them replace the cutlass bearing. 



 


So, it might make sense to use that time to bring all the boards home and apply 
lonseal if I like it.


 


Might as well try to kill as many birds at one time as possible.  :( 



 


Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net



 


 





On Wednesday, July 8, 2020, 2:08:26 PM EDT, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 

 wrote: 


 


 




Bruce,

 


LONSEAL, based in California. See: 
https://lonseal.com/products/product-details/line/LONMARINEsupregsupWOOD/ 


 


I just need to hunt around for an installer so I can get a quote going. 








All the best,


 


Edd


 


 



Edd M. Schillay


Captain of the Starship Enterprise


C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B


Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL



 



Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log


 












 











 

On Jul 8, 2020, at 2:02 PM, bwhitmore via CnC-List 
 wrote:

 



I was thinking the same thing, Edd.  Where did you get your sample?


 


 


 



Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device



 

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Re: Stus-List Refinishing cabin floor

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

I was thinking the same thing, Edd.  Where did you get your sample?Sent from my 
T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
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Re: Stus-List Marina/Dock/Pier potable water warning

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

With ours, we use the hose to wash the boat and do other tasks before filling 
the water tanks.  Even then, we attach an RV filter before filling.  We also 
have another filter in our water system.Sent from Samsung tablet.
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Re: Stus-List Re-power and prop for 1981 C Landfall 38

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

I've had an Atomic 4 for 20 years and a Yanmar 3JH2E in a different boat for 4. 
 The Atomic 4 is definitely quieter, and as long as you take care of it (which 
is easy since you are on fresh water), I'd keep the A-4.  That's presuming 
you've gone to the electronic ignition and done basic maintenance.Those who 
talk about Atomic Bombs, gasoline hazards, etc. just simply go too far 
IMHO.Sent from Samsung tablet.
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Re: Stus-List Air Conditioning Question

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Hi Edd, I still want to get down and see Enterprise soon!We leave ours in 
dehumidify mode.Aftermarket dehumidifiers that would drain into the sink would 
likely be more efficient, but take a lot of space.Bruce Sent from Samsung 
tablet.
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump question

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Fair enough Josh,  I don't have the backup of the high capacity centrifugal 
pump.Of course, with my recent fiasco. I am evidently at much higher risk of 
being killed by an errant jetski than drowning because my bilge pump won't keep 
up.  :(More on that is forthcoming...Thanks as always to Josh, your insights 
are always invaluable. Sent from Samsung tablet.
 Original message From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 Date: 6/23/20  11:29 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: C List 
 Cc: Josh Muckley  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Bilge pump question Bruce,That's why I like the 2 stage system which 
I suggested.  It gets the best of both worlds.  You absolutely make valid 
points about the weaknesses of centrifugal pumps.Josh On Tue, Jun 23, 2020, 
22:53 bwhitmore via CnC-List  wrote:I hate disagreeing 
with Josh or Edd as I respect you guys so much.  But my opinion is that if you 
need volume pumping, something is dramatically wrong.  If you're not on the 
boat, it will sink anyway.  If you're on the boat, it may give you more time to 
find the leak, but my centrifugal pumps tend to clog, bind up, or at least 
never pump to the stated volume.   I'd rather have a 300 gph pump I think will 
actually pump that much than a 1,000 rated gph pump that ultimately I don't 
think I can fully rely on that actually delivers 500 gph.Centrifugal pumps tend 
to rely on numbers without lift, where diaphragm pumps are not affected nearly 
as much.Just my $.02 worthBruce Sent from Samsung tablet. Original 
message From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List  Date: 
6/23/20  10:16 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: C List  Cc: Josh 
Muckley  Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge pump question The 
diaphragm pumps are great for getting the very last drops but they tend to be 
relatively low flow rate.  I would suggest that you consider adding as high of 
a capacity pump as will fit and have it run on an automatic switch.  You could 
have them run simultaneously but really having just the new high flow pump run 
as the primary pump is sufficient.  Once the bilge is pumped, you can pump the 
dredges manually with the diaphragm pump.For high flow you're basically going 
to get a centrifugal pump.  I replaced the original Rule with another pricey 
Rule pump which failed withing 3 years.  I replaced it with a Walmart Atwood 
Pump which failed within 3 years and replaced it with the current Johnson pump. 
 I'm not hopeful that it will last more than 3 years.Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 
1989 C 37+Solomons, MDOn Tue, Jun 23, 2020, 16:02 Matt Wolford via CnC-List 
 wrote:Listers:

        New topic.  My boat came with a really nice diaphragm pump for the 
bilge, but it operates on a manual switch.  I was going to change the switch 
and install a sensor in the bilge to make it automatic, but it occurs to me 
that having redundancy is a good idea for this application.  Which pumps to 
people like for placement in the bilge?  I picked up a water witch sensor, so I 
don't need an automatic pump.  Thanks in advance for suggestions. 


Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



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Re: Stus-List 37+ Cruise Speed

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

What is your pitch and diameter on your FlexoFold, what can you get at 2800 
RPM, and what is the shaft size?  I am likely going down that road in the next 
few week, and if you have the 37+, want to make sure I have real life 
examples.ThanksBruce Whitmore Sent from Samsung tablet.
 Original message From: Rob Hamlin via CnC-List 
 Date: 6/23/20  7:57 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Rob Hamlin  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List 37+ Cruise Speed Thanks everyone, I was maintaining around 6.5 knts 
at 2,200 with a 3HM and 3 blade folding flexafold. Sent from my iPhoneOn Jun 
23, 2020, at 4:17 PM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List  
wrote:C 37/40 XL, loaded for cruising, fuel & water tanks full:Non standard 
engine, a Yanmar 3JH2-TBE (turbo, 47 hp)Transmission 2.64 : 1 reduction 
ratioPropeller Size:  18” - 3 blade   featheringThe following assumes no 
head wind to speak of, and fairly calm water:3200 RPM, 7.0 kts3400 RPM 7.1 
ktsWide open - 3800 to 3900 RPM 8.0 kts, lots more fuel being burnt.Say 10 to 
15 knots on the nose and some waves: 3200 RPM 6.0 to 6.4 kts.On Tue, 23 Jun 
2020 at 13:53, Rob Hamlin via CnC-List  wrote:Hi
What is everyone’s motor/ rpm optimal motoring speed?  

Thanks
Rob



Sent from my iPhone
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-- Ken Heaton & Anne TobinS/V Salazar - Can 54955C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67Cape 
Breton Island, Nova ScotiaC 37/40 XL Salazar  -- "Nice? It's the only thing," 
said the Water Rat Solemnly, as he leaned forward for his stroke. "Believe me, 
my young friend, there is nothing -- absolutely nothing -- half so much worth 
doing as simply messing about in boats.""Simply messing...about in boats -- or 
with boats... In or out of 'em it doesn't matter. Nothing seems to matter, 
that's the charm of it. Whether you get away, or whether you don't; whether you 
arrive at your destination or whether you reach somewhere else, or whether you 
never get anywhere at all, you're always busy, and you never do anything in 
particular; and when you've done it there's always something else to do, and 
you can do it if you like, but you'd much better not."
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this list with your contributions.  Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  
If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution --   
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump question

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

I hate disagreeing with Josh or Edd as I respect you guys so much.  But my 
opinion is that if you need volume pumping, something is dramatically wrong.  
If you're not on the boat, it will sink anyway.  If you're on the boat, it may 
give you more time to find the leak, but my centrifugal pumps tend to clog, 
bind up, or at least never pump to the stated volume.   I'd rather have a 300 
gph pump I think will actually pump that much than a 1,000 rated gph pump that 
ultimately I don't think I can fully rely on that actually delivers 500 
gph.Centrifugal pumps tend to rely on numbers without lift, where diaphragm 
pumps are not affected nearly as much.Just my $.02 worthBruce Sent from Samsung 
tablet.
 Original message From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 Date: 6/23/20  10:16 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: C List 
 Cc: Josh Muckley  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Bilge pump question The diaphragm pumps are great for getting the 
very last drops but they tend to be relatively low flow rate.  I would suggest 
that you consider adding as high of a capacity pump as will fit and have it run 
on an automatic switch.  You could have them run simultaneously but really 
having just the new high flow pump run as the primary pump is sufficient.  Once 
the bilge is pumped, you can pump the dredges manually with the diaphragm 
pump.For high flow you're basically going to get a centrifugal pump.  I 
replaced the original Rule with another pricey Rule pump which failed withing 3 
years.  I replaced it with a Walmart Atwood Pump which failed within 3 years 
and replaced it with the current Johnson pump.  I'm not hopeful that it will 
last more than 3 years.Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+Solomons, MDOn 
Tue, Jun 23, 2020, 16:02 Matt Wolford via CnC-List  
wrote:Listers:

        New topic.  My boat came with a really nice diaphragm pump for the 
bilge, but it operates on a manual switch.  I was going to change the switch 
and install a sensor in the bilge to make it automatic, but it occurs to me 
that having redundancy is a good idea for this application.  Which pumps to 
people like for placement in the bilge?  I picked up a water witch sensor, so I 
don't need an automatic pump.  Thanks in advance for suggestions. 


Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump question

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

I went with a Whale Gulper for both bilge pumps with rule floating switches.   
I tried the water Witch and twice had it running way after shut down should 
have occurred.  I don't trust them to turn off appropriately.Sent from Samsung 
tablet.
 Original message From: Matt Wolford via CnC-List 
 Date: 6/23/20  4:02 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: wolf...@erie.net Subject: Stus-List Bilge pump 
question Listers:New topic.  My boat came with a really nice diaphragm pump 
for the bilge, but it operates on a manual switch.  I was going to change the 
switch and install a sensor in the bilge to make it automatic, but it occurs to 
me that having redundancy is a good idea for this application.  Which pumps to 
people like for placement in the bilge?  I picked up a water witch sensor, so I 
don't need an automatic pump.  Thanks in advance for suggestions. Thanks 
everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and every one 
is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send 
contribution --   
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray___Thanks
 everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and every one 
is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send 
contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Update regard the jetski v. 37/40 accident

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

That's exactly what happened.  Took his thumb off the throttle and lost 
steering.Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
 Original message From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
 Date: 6/19/20  5:57 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: cenel...@aol.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Update regard 
the jetski v. 37/40 accident Sad too see it!Still cannot understand how anyone 
on a jet ski, barring a blackout or complete inebriation, could not see a 40 ft 
sailboat in their path. Perhaps the driver realized too late that he/she could 
not control the ski without it moving and/or was moving much faster than he/she 
should have been under the conditions.Charlie NelsonSent from AOL Mobile 
MailGet the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com


On Friday, June 19, 2020, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Hello all, As
 an update, please see the photo of the damage to our boat.Boat Damage from 
Jetski.jpgBoat Damage from Jetski.jpgShared with DropboxYou might 
not see much at first but look at the twist in the solar panels.  The 
missing support for the dinghy davit on the port side.  The dinghy davit
 on the port side has been twisted and is destroyed, and the 1 1/4" 
stainless tube has been bent more than 90 degrees at the foot.  The 
dinghy has a permanent dent and a damaged seam in the bottom.  There is a
 damaged hydraulic backstay adjuster.Realistically, had the 
dinghy not been there, the jetski would have landed in the cockpit and I
 would likely not be hear typing this.  The surveyor is estimating the damage 
between $15,000 - $20,000.  Bruce Whitmore(847) 404-5092 
(mobile)bwhitmore@sbcglobal.net___Thanks
 everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and every one 
is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send 
contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray___

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Re: Stus-List Argh!!! Jetski rear-ended us! Help?

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Crunched dinghy davits - $2,000 in materials alone.  Bent solar panels, $500, 
Trashed stern pulpit.  I have no idea, but not cheap.  Damaged bimini frame.  
Break in fiberglass on the stern near the swim ladder.  So, I'm expecting it 
will be somewhere between $10,000 - $20,000, and labor down here isn't cheap.  
Sent from Samsung tablet.
 Original message From: "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" 
 Date: 6/15/20  11:08 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: "Della Barba, Joe"  Subject: 
Re: Stus-List Argh!!! Jetski rear-ended us! Help? 

I have to ask how you got $20,000 in damage and no injuries. YIKES! Unless you 
are suing for emotion distress or something, you might end up getting paid out
 in full by the jetski place and not have a basis for suing. Make sure you keep 
up with your insurance company and how they are doing with the claim.
 
Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I
www.dellabarba.com
 
 
 
 


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of bwhitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 15, 2020 11:02 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: bwhitmore 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Argh!!! Jetski rear-ended us! Help?


 

Yes, we will be getting reports from the Pinellas County Sheriff, the Treasure 
Island marine police, and even the bridge tender has agreed to provide a 
witness statement.  We also have photos
 of the jetski riders.  


 


 


 



Sent from Samsung tablet.



 


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Re: Stus-List Argh!!! Jetski rear-ended us! Help?

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Yes, we will be getting reports from the Pinellas County Sheriff, the Treasure 
Island marine police, and even the bridge tender has agreed to provide a 
witness statement.  We also have photos of the jetski riders.  Sent from 
Samsung tablet.
 Original message From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
 Date: 6/15/20  10:50 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: CnClist 
 Cc: "Dennis C."  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Argh!!! Jetski rear-ended us! Help? What documentation do you have?  
USCG or Florida Marine Patrol incident reports?  If nothing, get something 
soon. Did you take pics of the jetski, driver, etc.?-- Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 
#83Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Argh!!! Jetski rear-ended us! Help?

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Thankfully, we were not hurt, and the renters climbed back on the jetski and 
returned to the rental company.  However, I want to recover the deductible and 
get anything depreciated repaid as well.  Yes, I already have the insurer 
involved, and they will help, but I'm sufficiently angry with the rental 
company for not keeping them out of the deepwater channel I really want to go 
after them.We've had lots of close calls with their renters before, and I want 
to get them to tighten the training.Sent from Samsung tablet.
 Original message From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
 Date: 6/15/20  10:43 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list 
 Cc: Joel Aronson  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Argh!!! Jetski rear-ended us! Help? A release of liability only means 
the renter won't sue the rental company.  Notify your carrier and tell the 
rental company you want the name of their insurance company and that they are 
full of sh*t.I hope no one was hurt.JoelOn Mon, Jun 15, 2020 at 10:33 AM 
bwhitmore via CnC-List  wrote:Hello all,We were going 
into John's Pass in Florida and got rear-ended by a jetski.  Looks like about 
$20,000 in damage.  The jetski rental company is saying we have to deal with 
the renter, because they signed a release of liability.Of course, I'm not a 
party to that agreement, and I believe that they failed to appropriately vet 
and train their renters.  I have insurance, but want to recover as much as 
possible from the 3rd parties.Does anyone here have any background, knowledge 
or insights that might help?Thank you!Bruce Whitmore1994 C 37/40+ 
"Astralis"Madeira Beach, FLSent from Samsung 
tablet.___

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-- Joel 
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Stus-List Argh!!! Jetski rear-ended us! Help?

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Hello all,We were going into John's Pass in Florida and got rear-ended by a 
jetski.  Looks like about $20,000 in damage.  The jetski rental company is 
saying we have to deal with the renter, because they signed a release of 
liability.Of course, I'm not a party to that agreement, and I believe that they 
failed to appropriately vet and train their renters.  I have insurance, but 
want to recover as much as possible from the 3rd parties.Does anyone here have 
any background, knowledge or insights that might help?Thank you!Bruce 
Whitmore1994 C 37/40+ "Astralis"Madeira Beach, FLSent from Samsung tablet.___

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Re: Stus-List Roll-Up Inflatable Dinghies and Motors

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

I too, run my outbound all the way out of gas, and if I'm leaving it for long,  
I even open the bowl drain on the carb for a moment and drain the last bit 
out.Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
 Original message From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 Date: 6/13/20  11:10 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: C List 
 Cc: Josh Muckley  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Roll-Up Inflatable Dinghies and Motors Bruce,I too have NOT been made 
aware of Supreme/93 octane being made by default without ethanol.  The octane 
rating is often achieved by simply adding toluene.  I've even seen plans for 
toluene injection systems designed for performance vehicles.  As I understand 
it the octane doesn't add power or BTUs/gallon but rather changes the 
likelihood of combustion due to the heat of compression (ping/pre-detonation).  
I'll look for a better explanation and post back.  Anecdotally, I exclusively 
use 93 octane in ALL my applications and I have had small engines with what 
seem to be trouble due to "stale" gas.  In many cases they had had previous 
owners so it is unknown exactly what caused the problems or if it was simply 
age related.  The latest was a chainsaw which was ~30 years old (my late 
father's).  I didn't perform an autopsy but just simply replaced the carb.  
During the replacement I found all of the rubber parts to be in remarkably good 
condition with the exception of the impulse fuel line which kinda disintegrated 
upon removal.With the Mantis Tiller I've shown before, I found the rubber 
diaphragms to be cracked and taking a set.  Again, previous owners could have 
done anything so who knows.  I've also had two 5Hp Briggs and Stratton engines 
which sat for years with old gas in the carb.  They had clear signs of deposits 
and varnish which degraded their performance until it was cleaned up.  These 2 
specific engines were in my care (or lack there of) since new.  I don't buy low 
octane gas so the octane could not have simply been the cause.  As a side note 
the first 2 engines were 2 stroke and the second 2 were 4 stroke.  My diagnosis 
is that each pair may have experienced 2 different failure mechanisms.  In the 
first 2, the degradation of the rubber and plastic-ish parts.  This is 
consistent with ethanol related failures.  In the second 2, it appeared that 
varnish/deposits had developed and clogged the small ports and orifices.  This 
is consistent with allowing the gas to remain in the system and ultimately 
evaporating, leaving behind the normally low concentrations of non-volatile 
substances as deposits. This effect is what I believe makes up the varnish.  In 
cleaning these deposits I found that carb cleaner was more or less ineffective 
and that mechanical removal was necessary.Oddly, I believe that both of these 
failure mechanisms can be prevented by "running out" the fuel when done using 
the equipment.  Don't just turn of the engine but rather starve it out by 
shutting of the gas.  There may be something to be said about the oil in 2 
stroke fuel helping to prevent evaporation and the formation of deposits.  Who 
knows.Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+Solomons, MDOn Sat, Jun 13, 2020, 
10:16 bwhitmore via CnC-List  wrote:I don't agree,  at 
least here in the U.S. that premium gas doesn't have ethanol in it.  There are, 
 however,  gas stations that have a pump reserved for non-ethanol gas. Bruce 
Sent from Samsung tablet.___

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Re: Stus-List Roll-Up Inflatable Dinghies and Motors

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

I don't agree,  at least here in the U.S. that premium gas doesn't have ethanol 
in it.  There are,  however,  gas stations that have a pump reserved for 
non-ethanol gas. Bruce Sent from Samsung tablet.
null___

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Re: Stus-List Shaft coupler removal

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Excellent!Sent from Samsung tablet.
null___

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Re: Stus-List Diesel Filter

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Interesting and informative story, Rick.  Thanks for sharing.Bruce Sent from 
Samsung tablet.
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Re: Stus-List Yanmar Coolant

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Please bear with me, I have a lot of information but I will have to wait until 
tomorrow.More to come,   Bruce Whitmore Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
null___

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Re: Stus-List Outboard motor for dinghy

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

We have a torqeedo and a Mecury 6 hp 4 stroke, both from the prior owner of our 
boat, so I've compared them side-by-side.  The 6 hp can get our 10 ft. 
PortaBote up on plane 13 kts., and with a separate tank has a really, really 
long run time.  Downside?  Small gasoline engines require fresh fuel and 
maintenance.  And, the weight makes it a challenge to take on & off the boat, 
though we have a system now that makes it a lot easier.By comparison, the 
torqeedo is nearly slient, I can put it on the boat with one hand, and I 
recharge the battery from my 12 volt system on Astralis.  Heck, if I want to 
extend the range, I can just bring one of my house batteries and connect the 
torqeedo to it.  Downsides?  The electrical connections can be a bit finnicky, 
and you won't get more than about 4 kts. out of it.  I would personally not buy 
an off-brand electric.I like both, and its great that I have options.Bruce1994 
C 37/40+ "Astralis"Sent from Samsung tablet.
 Original message From: John Conklin via CnC-List 
 Date: 5/31/20  11:52 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: John Conklin  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Outboard motor for dinghy 
I looked hard at that one at Annapolis boat show last year  Super light nice 
affordable package. No where near the power of the torquedo Though 

There is one other I also really liked  will look for the brochure. 

John Conklin 
S/V Halcyon
S/V Heartbeat
www.flirtingwithfire.com




On May 31, 2020, at 10:55 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List  
wrote:




 Despite the extra cost, I am starting to like the idea of an electric.  I 
also found this motor: EP Carry (https://www.electricpaddle.com/index.html).  
It is made in the US, slightly
 cheaper and lighter than the Torqeedo but otherwise seem functionally 
equivalent.  A bit less high tech and less cool factor (no integrated USB 
charger or charge display).  One thing I think I like is that the battery pack 
is separate and connects with cable
 to motor.  So moving the motor from dinghy to C is two light packages (14 
pounds and 6 pounds with the battery in a floating case).  For normal use, I 
would simply bring the battery pack home each time and recharge it.  Dave




S/V Aries

1990 C 34+

New London, CT







On May 31, 2020, at 10:35 AM, John Conklin via CnC-List  
wrote:


Yep Torqeudo next for me for sure (if I don’t find a used 2.5 or something) I 
have a LEHR 9.9 I M happy to sell  my back Just  can’t quite handle that one. 
Just had a long discussion with a guy at town dock he loves it!! And charges up 
easily from his solar panel

John Conklin 
S/V Halcyon
S/V Heartbeat
www.flirtingwithfire.com




On May 31, 2020, at 6:02 AM, Nathan Post via CnC-List  
wrote:




 Consider replacing with an electric. I got a Torqueedo 1103S for my dinghy 
(9ft Zodiac rib). The motor with battery is around 38 lbs but disassembles and 
the battery can be installed after you put the motor on the boat. Quiet, no 
fuel,
 no mess, No smell, runs every time as long as you charge it. The 503 Model is 
under 30 lbs I think if you are concerned about weight.  Also depends on which 
battery you get.  More money up front but a lot less hassle in the long run I 
expect (new this year
 for me). 
Nathan

S/V Wisper










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Re: Stus-List Grounding

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Hello all,Josh, or Edd, this might be a perfect question for you folks.  Where 
is the star ground and the shunt located on our C 37/40+ boats?  This is a 
perfect discussion, as I was having grounding issues of my own and the shunt 
and star ground cannot be found behind the circuit breaker panel, nor are they 
at the batteries, and I don't think I've seen them in the engine 
compartment...Thanks!Bruce Whitmore1994 C/40+"Astralis"Sent from Samsung 
tablet.
 Original message From: Dave S via CnC-List 
 Date: 5/30/20  10:33 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: Neil Andersen 
 Cc: Dave S , 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Grounding Feels like a leading 
(but good) question, lol - and I’d expect the ‘grounds’ could be at different 
potentials and that this delta would vary based on the ground at different 
marinas. You’ve made me curious, will measure the ground-to-ground voltage 
today.Not sure of the practical negative (if any) implications of the AC ground 
being at a slightly different potential than the isolated -12vdc ‘ground’?   I 
can see that a poor -12vdc ‘ground’ could impact noise suppression in cable 
shielding or similar but otherwise Is there an issue?  I’m Not a 
grounding/bonding expert by any means!Dave On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 9:56 AM Neil 
Andersen  wrote:








Does that set up a different ground potential when connected to shore power (AC 
side and 12V side)?




Neil Andersen
Rock Hall, MD 21661




From: Dave S 
Sent: Saturday, May 30, 2020 9:41:36 AM
To: Neil Andersen 
Cc: Brian Davis ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Grounding
 



Interesting question. The term ‘ground’ probably should be distinguished from 
the negative side of the dc circuit. 
Can’t speak to more sophisticated boats but in my relatively simple 33-2  The 
AC system is isolated, grounded only when connected to shore power.  I do not 
run any AC loads otherwise, no inverter.

The 12v system would ultimately ‘ground’ To the water via the engine, prop and 
shaft.   


Dave 


On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 9:33 AM Neil Andersen  
wrote:







Where do you actually go to “ground” off the bus??




Neil Andersen
1982 C 32
Rock Hall, MD




From: CnC-List  on behalf
 of Dave S via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, May 30, 2020 9:18:24 AM
To: Brian Davis ; C Stus List 

Cc: Dave S 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Grounding
 


Essentially yes, however when you are thinking of the boat's wiring, I would 
think of the ground bus as the centre, with the engine connected to it, rather 
than the reverse.   Think of it a hub or a star - with the ground bus at the 
centre. 
  (Google "star grounding")  one of those paths has to finally cross the shunt 
to be measured.   (those loads which are powered by the house bank)


 That green wire is the ground for the aluminum fuel tank.  The rest are 
batteries (house 1,2, and start) or engine, plus the shunt.   All are at the 
same ground potential.   On the other side of the shunt is the smartcharger, 
the refrigeration unit, the
 house breaker panel, and anything else I want to "see" in the BMV 700.    
Basically anything that impacts the house bank, (though this does not include 
the alternator.)      


Dave







On Sat, 30 May 2020 at 08:43, Brian Davis  wrote:


Thanks, Dave.  I have the same type of shunt that came with the Blue Sea panels 
I'm installing and will have the same monitoring.  I see in you pic there's a 
green wire (grounding?) going to the bus along with the blacks (negative 
batteries). 
 So, all of that goes to the same engine connecting point and the grounds and 
negatives share that single point?  Just want to make sure I completely "get 
it". 


Thanks for all your guys help.



On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 8:21 AM Dave S  wrote:







Agree with Joe's comment.    the engine must be grounded but should not be used 
as your primary grounding point.   

there are a buncha' good reasons for this.  Another thing to consider is 
providing for an upgrade the battery/power monitoring, for which you may need 
to install a resistive shunt between the battery and the various grounds you 
wish to monitor,     Here's a
 photo of the shunt (on the right)  and ground bus (left)  in my 33-2, you can 
see the ground bus and various grounds attached, this bus is connected to one 
side of the shunt, the other side of which is connected to the house breaker 
panel and the other accessories
 that are measured by my battery/power consumption monitor. This is the shunt 
that victron provides with the BMV-700.    




https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LeNHHo5kK2k/V5V0MaFJ_cI/Akc/VI_Cm3z-Aa0m_dZ9AmlgaeVdXmXQOINkgCLcB/s1600/blog%2Bgrounding%2B2.jpg
  








Dave







   













-- Forwarded message --
From: Brian Davis 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: 
Bcc: 
Date: Sat, 30 May 2020 07:32:16 -0400
Subject: Stus-List Grounding
Hello everyone, 


Hope you quarantine projects are going well.


I have a question about grounding. I'm currently refitting ALL wiring from 

Re: Stus-List Diesel Filter

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

That is exactly how I just installed mine.  I bought a liquid-filled stainless 
gauge though, probably about $18 for the gauge alone.Bruce Sent from Samsung 
tablet.
 Original message From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 Date: 5/24/20  6:43 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: C List 
 Cc: Josh Muckley  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Diesel Filter Regarding Joe's post: the official Racor vacuum gage is 
designed to fit the 500 series racor.  The smaller one like I show in my video 
is no longer available new but was frequently installed on our era boats and is 
likely to still be on many of them.  It is a 200 series.  The 200 series has no 
provision for a t-handle (rather a band clamp) so the official t-gage won't 
fit.  In my video I show having used a brass tee, 2 hose barbs, a street elbow, 
and an El cheapo vacuum gage which I believe I procured from Amazon.  The total 
package was less than $20.  The hose barbs allow it to be installed anywhere on 
the fuel hose connecting between the racor and the engine.Josh Muckley S/V Sea 
Hawk 1989 C 37+Solomons, MDOn Sun, May 24, 2020, 18:15 Joe Della Barba via 
CnC-List  wrote:
  

  
  
A vacuum gauge is one of the best cost/benefit ratio improvements
  you can do. You can save a lot of $$$ in unneeded filter changes
  and get advanced warning when you do need to change one.
Be official:

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=racor+gauge&_sacat=0
Cockpit mount with light:

https://moyermarine.com/product/vacuum-gauge-kit-gaug_07-1_532/
  (also can be used for manifold vacuum)

Cheap:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-1-2-Vacuum-Gauge-Chrome-Plated-Steel-Case-1-4-NPT-Lower-Mnt-30-inHg-0/183642544745?hash=item2ac1f2da69:g:2gUAAOSwJiBcQOWz

https://www.ebay.com/itm/LIQUID-FILLED-VACUUM-GAUGE-30-0-PSI-2-5-FACE-1-4-NPT-LOWER-MOUNT-WOG/192746480989?hash=item2ce095e55d:g:RiQAAOSwqoxcBW9S


Joe Coquina C 35 MK I



On 5/24/2020 3:39 PM, bwhitmore via
  CnC-List wrote:


  
  Time and again I have read
  that Yanmar does not recommend a 2/3 micron primary filter.  I
  therefore use a 10 micron, and use Biobar, as well as some
  Seafoam.   I have some old crud in my tank, but where I can
  see it through the hole for the sender, the bits I can see are
  pretty well stuck to the bottom of the tank (and there are not
  many of them).  That said, the boat had sat at the dock for
  +/- 6 years before I got her, and we have run 150 gallons or
  so of fuel through the boat in the last 4 years.  
  

  I change my Racor every
  year, and I used to change the one on the engine every year as
  well.  This time, I'm going to let the engine mounted one go
  another year.  We still get a fine layer of black "grit" at
  the bottom of the racor over the year, but it does not appear
  to hinder the running of the engine.  
  

  I'd rather swap out a $20
  filter once a year than risk the engine shutting down as I go
  through a bridge opening with 3 kts. of current.  
  

  To each their own,
  

  Bruce 
  
  
  

  

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Re: Stus-List Diesel Filter

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Time and again I have read that Yanmar does not recommend a 2/3 micron primary 
filter.  I therefore use a 10 micron, and use Biobar, as well as some Seafoam.  
 I have some old crud in my tank, but where I can see it through the hole for 
the sender, the bits I can see are pretty well stuck to the bottom of the tank 
(and there are not many of them).  That said, the boat had sat at the dock for 
+/- 6 years before I got her, and we have run 150 gallons or so of fuel through 
the boat in the last 4 years.  I change my Racor every year, and I used to 
change the one on the engine every year as well.  This time, I'm going to let 
the engine mounted one go another year.  We still get a fine layer of black 
"grit" at the bottom of the racor over the year, but it does not appear to 
hinder the running of the engine.  I'd rather swap out a $20 filter once a year 
than risk the engine shutting down as I go through a bridge opening with 3 kts. 
of current.  To each their own,Bruce Sent from Samsung tablet.
 Original message From: Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
 Date: 5/24/20  1:47 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: CnC-List 
 Cc: Kevin Driscoll  Subject: 
Re: Stus-List Diesel Filter I run a 2 micron in my primary Racor as Josh 
mentioned and on the advice of the teacher of a 'small marine diesel engine 
class' I took. I never wait for the engine to stall before changing and I do 
not have a guage. What I do have and maintain is a clean tank and use biobor 
religiously. I change my primary annually or before a big offshore trip, for 
peace of mind. Hell of a lot easier to use a 2 micron in the primary and leave 
the downstream 2 micron secondary engine mounted filter in place. I top off the 
primary Racor with Diesel when I put it back together so I never have to bleed. 
On Sat, May 23, 2020, 2:31 PM Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
wrote:David,I wasn’t on board, but I think one was a precaution and the other 
because of a stall-out. All the best, Edd———-Edd M. SchillayCaptain 
of the “Starship Enterprise”C 37+ | Sail No.: NCC-1701-BVenice Yacht Club | 
Venice Island, FLwww.StarshipSailing.com———-914.774.9767   | 
Mobile———-Sent via iPhone 11 ProiPhone. iTypos. iApologizeOn May 
23, 2020, at 5:02 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List  
wrote:Hi Edd- How did you know you needed to change the filter twice on the 
trip down?  Were there symptoms or just being cautious?  Dave
S/V Aries1990 C 34+New London, CT


On May 23, 2020, at 4:00 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
wrote:Bo,Much will depend on how much you use your engine, how clean your tank 
is, and the quality of fuel you are using. When the Enterprise came down from 
New York, she was practically motoring the entire time, adding many hours of 
engine use in three weeks. For that trip, the filters were changed two times. 
For normal use, like Josh, I have a fine raycor filter and change that maybe 
once every several years - or if I can see notable clogging or the engine 
stalls. The filter on the engine Itself I change once every three years or so. 
I used to do oil changes and oil filter changes every fall before laying up for 
the winter. Since there is no real layup season down here in Florida, I still 
keep to my fall schedule. My engine (Beta 30) came with a maintenance schedule 
based on engine hours. If you have that for your engine, that should be an 
excellent guide. All the best, Edd———-Edd M. SchillayCaptain of the 
“Starship Enterprise”C 37+ | Sail No.: NCC-1701-BVenice Yacht Club | Venice 
Island, FLwww.StarshipSailing.com———-914.774.9767   | 
Mobile———-Sent via iPhone 11 ProiPhone. iTypos. iApologizeOn May 
23, 2020, at 12:59 PM, General Gao via CnC-List  
wrote:Hi everyone, Just wondering, how often do you have to change diesel 
filters? or how do you tell it is time to change?Thank you,Bo
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Thanks 

Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

I will back what Dave Goodwin and others have said, and make two more 
observations.  1)  Go with Bed-It Buytl Tape, as it seems to have the same 
properties as the original C material, and I find it goes on much quicker 
than stuff in a tube.  Not only that, it doesn't dry out, so that roll will 
last you a long time unless you have major projects ahead of you. I am 100% 
sold on butyl.Bruce Whitmore 1994 C 37/40+Sent from Samsung tablet.
 Original message From: Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
 Date: 5/22/20  7:36 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: C List 
 Cc: Dave Godwin  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Butyl tape As a requirement for repairing and repainting the deck and 
cabin top I have pulled every piece of hardware on my 1982 C 37 with the 
exception of the toe-rail. Virtually every item was installed with butyl. When 
we bought the boat many years ago I would add hardware or replace hardware like 
any obsessive boat owner would do and I would use sealants from 3M, Boatlife 
and Sika. Every item sealed with butyl was dry and leak-free. Those items that 
I installed with the other products eventually failed and/or leaked. Given my 
general ineptitude those failures were probably my fault. But...With the fact 
that the deck had almost no wet core, it was an easy decision to re-bed with 
the same material. I have re-bedded all of the hardware with butyl except where 
the manufacturer recommends a specific sealant, the plastic Beckson opening 
ports coming to mind.One thing that continually runs through my mind as I go 
about the process of re-bedding using butyl is the incredible amount of effort 
and time required to apply it. Were I a boat builder looking to keep labour 
costs down, I would probably be using tube sealants.My $0.02 (US).Regards,
Dave Godwin1982 C 37 - RoninReedville - Chesapeake BayRonin’s Overdue Refit

On May 22, 2020, at 6:12 AM, Nathan Post via CnC-List  
wrote:I am repainting the deck and the rebedding the hardware. The original 
hardware (gel coat under it) used butyl tape and in most places had not failed. 
The parts also come up easily when you want to pull them off. The ones using 
4200 or equivalent have failed, often around the screws, it is brittle, yet 
they don’t always come off easily unless completely failed (cutting under the 
part is often needed). I will be using butyl when I put it back together. 
NathanS/V WisperLynn MA- -On May 22, 2020, at 5:52 AM, Graham Collins via 
CnC-List  wrote:
C (or a previous owner) used butyl everywhere on my boat,
  and while it had failed in a few spots I'd add that the 4200 I
  used on a hatch failed after 2 years, so both can fail...  The
  hatch is on with butyl now, for 6 years, no problem.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11
On 2020-05-22 12:45 a.m., cscheaffer
  via CnC-List wrote:


  
  I'm rebedding deck
  hardware and bought Butyl Tape but I'm not convinced this is
  best for me.  Butyl has a cult following but it was not chosen
  by C during the build except for the hull deck joint.  I
  like 3M 4200 and 4000uv.  Anybody have opinions on Butyl being
  better?
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
Sent from my
  Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
  
  
  
  
  
  ___

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Re: Stus-List Shaft coupling removal

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

There's not enough room to use a puller in most boats.  I can't even visualize 
how that would work in the boats I've had.Bruce Sent from Samsung tablet.
 Original message From: John Christopher via CnC-List 
 Date: 5/19/20  9:03 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: Len Mitchell 
 Cc: John Christopher , CNC List 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Shaft coupling removal Wouldn’t 
a pulled work just the same?/JohnOn May 19, 2020, at 8:25 PM, Len Mitchell 
 wrote:John, I had to use a socket on the end of the 
prop shaft and pressed the coupling off using longer bolts and nuts of the same 
size. Some folks have actually cut theirs but with 2$ worth of bolts you can 
press it off quite easily if there is enough room. Check your cutlass bearing 
if you are going that far! Len MitchellCrazy Legs 1989 37+Midland On.Sent from 
my iPad___

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Re: Stus-List Shaft coupling removal

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

That is exactly the process I used on our 27 MKIII to pull the prop shaft and 
replace the cutlass bearing.  Bruce Sent from Samsung tablet.
 Original message From: Len Mitchell via CnC-List 
 Date: 5/19/20  8:26 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: CNC List 
 Cc: Len Mitchell , 
phygi...@gmail.com Subject: Stus-List Shaft coupling removal John, I had to use 
a socket on the end of the prop shaft and pressed the coupling off using longer 
bolts and nuts of the same size. Some folks have actually cut theirs but with 
2$ worth of bolts you can press it off quite easily if there is enough room. 
Check your cutlass bearing if you are going that far! Len MitchellCrazy Legs 
1989 37+Midland On.Sent from my 
iPad___Thanks everyone for 
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Stus-List Carbon Monoxide detectors (reviving from a few days ago)

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Hello all,I had put a household, battery powered CO detector on our C/40+ a 
week or two ago, and got on the boat yesterday only to hear it going off.  
Everything was turned off, so I'm reasonably certain we didn't have CO building 
up.   We do, however, have solar panels, and I'm sure they were happily 
charging the batteries, and some folks said that the hydrogen coming off 
charging we cell batteries will set of the detector.  So, is there a detector 
that won't go off when exposed to hydrogen?  Or if I mounted it in the stern 
berth where we sleep instead of in the main salon would that be far enough away 
that the hydrogen should dissipate and not set off the alarm?I'm not hugely 
concerned about CO because the only things on board that should generate it are 
our diesel engine and the propane stove & grill.  However if cheap and easy 
enough, I wouldn't mind having one.  Thanks for the insights,Bruce Whitmore1994 
C 37/40+"Astralis"Madeira Beach, FLSent from Samsung tablet.___

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Re: Stus-List Fuel Transfer Pump

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Just used mine yesterday.  It's remarkable how quickly it empties a 5 gallon 
jerry can all the way to the bottom!I wouldn't do it any other way now.Cheap, 
too.BruceSent from Samsung tablet.
 Original message From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 Date: 5/16/20  10:56 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: C List 
 Cc: Josh Muckley  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Fuel Transfer Pump Shakers work awesome!  Still gonna have residual 
in the hose which will have lasting potential to make a mess.Josh MuckleyS/V 
Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+Solomons, MDOn Sat, May 16, 2020, 22:47 Marek Dziedzic via 
CnC-List  wrote:





Neil,


Many people, esp. cruising type talk about this shaker siphon. Does it really 
work that well? 


Marek 




 Original message 
From: Neil Gallagher via CnC-List  
Date: 2020-05-16 20:12 (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Neil Gallagher  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel Transfer Pump 


Edd,

I've been using this, these things are awesome.  There's a bronze ball inside 
the end that goes into the can, shake it a few times and it starts to flow, 
almost faster than you could pour it out.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7302501?cid=paidsearch_shopping_dcoe_google=EAIaIQobChMI2vuN1M256QIVCaCzCh2hJwzoEAQYAiABEgK64PD_BwE

West Marine has them too.

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY


On 5/16/2020 1:59 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:

Listers,


A friend just sent me an ad for a battery-operated fuel pump for transferring 
fuel from a jerry can to the Enterprise’s fuel tank. 


Currently, I’m pouring from the jerry can directly into the tank, but there is 
always some spillage and cleanup. 


This looks like a nifty solution, but I wonder if it falls into the 
too-good-to-be-true category. 


Anyone here use one of these? Pros? Cons? 


All the best, 



Edd


———-
Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the “Starship Enterprise”
C 37+ | Sail No.: NCC-1701-B
Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
www.StarshipSailing.com
———-
914.774.9767   | Mobile
———-
Sent via iPhone 11 Pro
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize






 
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Re: Stus-List Best Shower Boat

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Hello all, another vote for the 37/40+.  The shower and the centerline stern 
berth.  I can post photos later if desired.Bruce Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE 
Device
 Original message From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
 Date: 5/15/20  6:38 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Edd Schillay  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Best Shower Boat Damn. Censored again.. By the way everyone, 
despite everything you may know about me or my C, I had absolutely nothing to 
do with the naming of “Operation Warp Speed.” though I do love the name. 
All the best, Edd———-Edd M. SchillayCaptain of the “Starship 
Enterprise”C 37+ | Sail No.: NCC-1701-BVenice Yacht Club | Venice Island, 
FLwww.StarshipSailing.com———-914.774.9767   | 
Mobile———-Sent via iPhone 11 ProiPhone. iTypos. iApologizeOn May 
15, 2020, at 6:34 PM, David Risch via CnC-List  wrote:





Two things would make Corsair perfect.  Idlsn berth and s seperate shower 
stall. 



Dont say it Edd...





Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you. 



From: CnC-List  on behalf of Ken Heaton via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, May 15, 2020 12:50:43 PM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Ken Heaton 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Best Shower Boat
 


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/C%26C_37/40#/media/File:C_37-40_Heads_Interior.jpg
  



On Fri, 15 May 2020 at 12:48, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
wrote:


Joe,


C 37+ — completely separate shower stall with a seat in there too. 








All the best,


Edd





Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL






Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
























On May 15, 2020, at 11:40 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
 wrote:







If you did not want to rely on taking showers ashore, what C are best set up 
for onboard showers? I know in theory I could do it now, but it makes a mess 
out of the head and
 then some. We shower aboard with a hose in the cockpit now.

Landfall 38 maybe? Don’ they have a shower stall?

 

 

Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I

www.dellabarba.com


 

 



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Re: Stus-List Main sheet Traveler Location

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Wow Rob, That gave me goosebumps.Thank you for not doing that to our C!Bruce 
Whitmore1994 C 37/40+ "Astralis"Madeira Beach, FLSent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE 
Device
 Original message From: Rob Ball via CnC-List 
 Date: 5/13/20  10:39 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Rob Ball  Subject: Stus-List Main 
sheet Traveler Location Designing a cockpit to include the traveler is the 
biggest challenge . . . . . On the bridge deck - good for the crew to trim the 
main, but deadly for moving around the cockpit . . . . . Aft by the binnacle is 
good for trimming and good for short handed sailing but again is very awkward 
to use the cockpit for comfort or movement . . . . . Forward of the 
companionway solves all cockpit moving around hurdles but indeed forces extra 
structure in the deck construction, a stronger boom, and stronger mainsheet. 
And, as suggested makes it challenging for short handed sailing . . . . . There 
was/is not perfect solution . . . . . Hunter solved it with a big structural 
Bimini-type rail to carry the traveler up high, but I could never bring myself 
to do that to the aesthetics of our designs . . . . . Rob Ball. C 34> On May 
13, 2020, at 9:50 PM, "cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com" 
 wrote:> > Send CnC-List mailing list 
submissions to>    cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the 
World Wide Web, visit>    
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com> or, via email, send 
a message with subject or body 'help' to>    cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> > 
You can reach the person managing the list at>    cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific> than 
"Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."> Today's Topics:> >   1.  C 29s with a 
Dodger (Jeremy Dinsel)>   2.  Moving Main Sheet Traveler on a C (Pamela & 
David)>   3. Re:  Moving Main Sheet Traveler on a C (Neil Andersen)>   4. 
Re:  Moving Main Sheet Traveler on a C (Marek Dziedzic)>   5. Re:  Moving 
Main Sheet Traveler on a C (wolf...@erie.net)>   6. Re:  Moving Main Sheet 
Traveler on a C (Josh Muckley)> > > 
> > > > 
___> CnC-List mailing list> 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com> 
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Re: Stus-List Loss of coolant

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

As for it going into the exhaust, there are two ways.  One is through the head 
gasket, which should result in steam coming out of the exhaust, and the other 
would be through pinhole leaks in the heat exchanger, which with some diesels 
is a relatively common occurrence.  But yes, check the bilge, and then check 
the oil for any milkyness.  If it persists and you don't have steam coming out 
your exhaust, then I would highly suspect the heat exchanger.  A boat buddy of 
mine with a Westerbeke had a similar problem and he had the heat exchanger 
repaired as opposed to replacing it.  I can track down the guy that did it for 
him if you would like.Hoping you find this helpful,Bruce 1994 C 37/40+Sent 
from Samsung tablet.
 Original message From: "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" 
 Date: 5/13/20  10:35 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: "Della Barba, Joe"  Subject: 
Re: Stus-List Loss of coolant 

It is only going one of three places – the bilge, the exhaust, or the oil.
Check the oil for coolant contamination ASAP and check the exhaust for excess 
steam and/or white smoke. The bilge should be obvious ;)
 
 
Joe Della Barba
DCSI
410-966-7255
 
 
 


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Bill Coleman via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2020 9:34 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Loss of coolant


 
Not in a 3JH4E, but I did in my Olds Custom Cruiser Wagon, with one of those 
350 Modified Diesel Engines.  Those were not up to the task which I knew going 
in,
 but I just loved that car.  It was common for warpage at the head gasket, I 
think the coolant leaked into the oil, tho it may have gone out the exhaust, I 
don’t remember anymore.  I just remember loosing the coolant, and several 
hundred dollars.
 
Bill Coleman
Erie PA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Glenn Henderson via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2020 8:47 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Glenn Henderson
Subject: Stus-List Loss of coolant

 


My Yanmar 3JH4E has been slowly leaking coolant. I motored for 14 hours and it 
lost 5mm of depth in the reservoir. The reservoir is approximately 4" DIA. I 
checked thoroughly for visible signs of leaking and found none. Has anyone had 
this
 experience?


 


Glenn Henderson


WeGo


C 41



 




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Re: Stus-List Keel movement in C 24

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Hi Josh,I highly respect your opinion, but on this one I have to differ.  Rob 
Ball, the designer of many of our boats, dispelled this a number of months 
back.  If you think about it, the actual amount of weight held by each bolt is 
actually quite small in comparison to the compression forces generated by 
torquing each of those bolts to spec.Food for thought,Bruce1994 
C/40+"Astralis"Sent from Samsung tablet.
 Original message From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 Date: 4/24/20  11:16 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: C List 
 Cc: Josh Muckley  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Keel movement in C 24 Chris,The prevailing wisdom of this list 
suggests that the keel bolts only be torqued while the boat is resting on its 
keel, generally about 60% of it's weight depending on the design.  In this way 
you are not turning the nuts against the weight of the keel or even trying to 
compress the bedding material.  IMO, it is likely that you will find more 
movement in the nuts when you retorque on dry land.I am not familiar with the 
design of your particular boat but some boats have keel bolts which are 
entirely inaccessible with the mast in place.  Make sure there isn't one (or 
two) hiding somewhere.Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+Solomons, MDOn Thu, 
Apr 23, 2020, 20:59 Chris Bennett via CnC-List  
wrote:Status update: I ended up torquing the keel bolts. They were not 
incredibly loose but all of them needed tightening, two by a turn or more and 
the other two by less than a turn. I will know if this removed the keel 
movement when the boat is next hauled out, although I am also thinking of 
diving on her to see if I can detect any wiggle that way (I live in BC and the 
water is pretty cold but manageable for a few minutes with a wet suit - I 
hope!). I believe that a very small looseness in a narrow keel root would 
result in a fairly noticeable movement at the tip of a 3 foot keel - even 1/8 
inch of movement over 2 inches width would translate into a couple of inches at 
the tip, if I have that right. So hopefully this was the issue!I took Drifter 
for a sail today after rebuilding the mast step and did not notice any flexing 
or movement in the floors or hull (made pencil marks on the floors and adjacent 
hull skin and checked on different tacks).  I also checked the tabbing under 
the settees on one side and found it intact, so suspect that the surveyor may 
have jumped to conclusions when he said the hull had been compromised and that 
was what was causing the keel movement.  Thanks again to everyone for their 
suggestions.Chris 
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Re: Stus-List Instrument Cabling / Edson Pedestal Guard

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Hi Edd , I did a similar thing as Josh with an existing Navpod and a Garmin 
unit.  I don't have photos at the moment but would be happy to chat about how 
we did it.Bruce Whitmore 1994 C 37/40+ "Astralis "847.404.5092Sent from 
Samsung tablet.
 Original message From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
 Date: 4/21/20  2:08 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: Edd Schillay 
via CnC-List  Cc: Edd Schillay  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Instrument Cabling / Edson Pedestal Guard Josh,Photos 
would be great, including how you got cabling from the guard to an accessible 
point in the ceiling of the aft cabin (and to the port locker). 
All the best,EddEdd M. SchillayCaptain of the Starship EnterpriseC 37+ | Sail 
No: NCC-1701-BVenice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FLStarship Enterprise's 
Captain's Log  

On Apr 21, 2020, at 2:03 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
wrote:Edd,I replaced the pedestal guard and installed a navpod for my new B 
9" plotter last year.  Navpod makes an oversized guard which made getting all 
the wires in very easy.  I actually ran considerably more wires than I needed 
since the system has the ability to interface wirelessly.  The nice thing about 
using the navpod is that the holes in the guard can be cut with a die-grinder 
and be pretty raggedy and ugly.  I used a file to smooth the edges so as to 
protect the wires but it was definitely something that I was glad to be able to 
hide behind the navpod box.  Turned out very professional looking and all the 
wires exit through the bottom of the guard posts, through the deck, and are 
accessible from the ceiling of the aft cabin.  We fished connections over from 
the port locker in the aft cabin.  I'll see if I can find some 
pictures.Unfortunately it wasn't a cheap project.Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 
C 37+Solomons, MD On Tue, Apr 21, 2020, 13:52 Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
 wrote:Listers,I’m considering adding an instrument pod 
and a larger pedestal guard to the Enterprise, preferably something big enough 
to handle my Raymarine e9 Series multifunction display. Between the thick power 
cable and the SeaTalk network cable (and the ends,) I think I’d drive myself 
nuts trying to cut holes in the stainless steel big enough to not only get 
those those cables in and out, but also feed them where I need them to go. Has 
anyone thought of a way to neatly run cabling along the outside of the pedestal 
guard?  I could use a new project. 
All the best,EddEdd M. SchillayCaptain of the Starship EnterpriseC 37+ | Sail 
No: NCC-1701-BVenice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FLStarship Enterprise's 
Captain's Log  

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Re: Stus-List Linear Auto Pilot install

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Hi Gary,I have to disagree with you on the comment regarding the hydraulic 
drive.  I have an Octopus unit, and when it is disengaged, I can feel the water 
flowing over the rudder from my prop when under power - it is that sensitive.  
For such a large boat, the steering is remarkably sensitive.Bruce WhitmoreC 
37/40+"Astralis"Madeira Beach, FLSent from Samsung tablet.
 Original message From: Gary Russell via CnC-List 
 Date: 4/20/20  2:35 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: C List 
 Cc: Gary Russell  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Linear Auto Pilot install Regardless of the controller you use, I 
would recommend the Raymarine Electric Drive Unit (Type 2?).  The benefit of an 
electric drive unit is it doesn't have the drag on the wheel/tiller when in 
standby mode.  The hydraulic units I've used make it hard to feel the boat when 
hand steering.GaryS/V Kaylarah'90 C 37+East Greenwich, RI, 
USA~~~_/)~~On Mon, Apr 20, 2020 at 11:38 AM Bradley Lumgair via 
CnC-List  wrote:I’ve been crawling around below deck on 
our C 33/2 contemplating the installation of a below deck autopilot as well. 
My rudder post is 2.373 or roughly 2-3/8 diameter, appears to be solid 
stainless. My keyway extends down below the quadrant by about 4 inches or so, 
right where the arm needs to go, didn’t realize how lucky I was until I read 
through this post. So, to my question, what are you using for a drive unit? 
I’ve looked at the Octopus R/S online also considering a few others but curious 
as to what others have decided on.
Thanks
Brad
Pulse
C 33/2
Lake Huron
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Re: Stus-List Linear Auto Pilot install

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

I, like Bryan, went with the Raymarine EV200, and connected it to an existing 
Octopus hydraulic ram.  It works quite well.  I do, however have a complaint 
about the remote.  It just won't stay charged even when left in the off 
position for a week or two.  I've already sent it back to Raymarine when I 
noticed the charge contacts were turning green and not connecting to the 
charger despite the remote having been kept in a dry place and not being 
exposed to harsh conditions.  I can't speak to other brands for comparison.Hope 
you find this helpful,BruceSent from Samsung tablet.
 Original message From: Bryan Colwell via CnC-List 
 Date: 4/20/20  10:02 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Bryan Colwell  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Linear Auto Pilot install Brad,I installed the Raymarine EV200 with 
type I linear drive on my 34+.  I couldn't be happier with the results. Very 
powerful in all points of sail. Zero feedback with the unit in standby. I sail 
solo 90% of the time and it would be very difficult without it. The wireless 
remote is pretty handy too!Bryan ColwellFourth Watch 1991 C 34+Anacortes, 
WAOn Mon, Apr 20, 2020, 8:38 AM Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List 
 wrote:I’ve been crawling around below deck on our C 
33/2 contemplating the installation of a below deck autopilot as well. My 
rudder post is 2.373 or roughly 2-3/8 diameter, appears to be solid stainless. 
My keyway extends down below the quadrant by about 4 inches or so, right where 
the arm needs to go, didn’t realize how lucky I was until I read through this 
post. So, to my question, what are you using for a drive unit? I’ve looked at 
the Octopus R/S online also considering a few others but curious as to what 
others have decided on.
Thanks
Brad
Pulse
C 33/2
Lake Huron
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Re: Stus-List Pedestal gear shift handle

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

That is way too much pressure, and a cable will probably solve the problem.  
One way to tell for sure is to go down into the bilge and move the lever by 
hand.  It really isn't that hard, and in fact, when I had an issue with the 
part at the wheel that broke, I got down into the starboard locker on our 27 
MKIII  and flipped it back & forth by hand.By checking it there, at least 
you've eliminated one of the potential causes.Just my $.02 worth,Bruce Sent 
from Samsung tablet.
 Original message From: "Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List" 
 Date: 4/8/20  10:37 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: "Ronald B. Frerker"  Subject: 
Stus-List Pedestal gear shift handle 
On mine, the mechanic took an aluminum rod and machined it to fit the 
short 2in lever that stood out from the pedestal.  Haven't been to the boat in 
a while, and not taken the rod out, but I thought it had a groove cut in the 
end, about a half inch from the end or so, with an o-ring placed in it.Next 
time to the boat, I'll try to remember to take a look.  Didn't cost much to 
make it.RonWild CheriC 30-1STL





On Wednesday, April 8, 2020, 11:35:31 AM CDT, Paul Hood via 
CnC-List  wrote:



Not those Joel.  Of course the only original one I have is the 
throttle,starboard side.  Don't know what the gear shift is suppose to look 
like.  Itappears the handle you show rotates back and forward.  On mine, it 
actuallyslides up/down in a slot, same action as the throttle.  Right now I 
have a1/2" bolt, tapered the threads slightly and slid it in the hole, cut 
thehead off the bolt and slid the bilge handle over the bolt for leverage.  
Itwas meant to be temporary...been a few year now.  BTW, the engine is atomic4 
with reduction drive.   I'll get better pictures this weekend.Paul Hood'81 
C BayMessage: 1Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2020 11:42:49 -0400From: Joel 
Aronson To: cnc-list Subject: 
Re: Stus-List Pedestal gear shift handleMessage-ID:    
Content-Type:
 text/plain; charset="utf-8"This?   http://www.marinepartdepot.com/stthha.html

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Re: Stus-List Fuel Pickup on 37+/40

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Interesting thought, Gary.  I never thought of that, and it makes perfect 
sense.Thanks for the insightful idea.Bruce Sent from Samsung tablet.
 Original message From: Gary Russell via CnC-List 
 Date: 3/23/20  4:04 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: C List 
 Cc: Gary Russell  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Fuel Pickup on 37+/40 I won't be the first time that a dip tube got 
perforated due to corrosion.GaryS/V Kaylarah'90 C 37+East Greenwich, RI, 
USA~~~_/)~~On Mon, Mar 23, 2020 at 3:21 PM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
 wrote:Same thing for mine - there is no rubber tube in 
my tank.  Any chance your gauge is off?  Bruce Whitmore1994 C 37/40+ 
"Astralis"Madeira Beach, FL (847) 404-5092 (mobile)bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net






On Monday, March 23, 2020, 2:59:14 PM EDT, Ken Heaton via 
CnC-List  wrote:



Ours doesn't have a hose on the bottom of the dip tube, just 
the metal dip tube.Ken H.On Mon, 23 Mar 2020 at 15:50, Tom Buscaglia via 
CnC-List  wrote:

Does anyone know if there is a hose or extension on the fuel
pickup on the 37+/40?  My 40G tank started running out at
~25g.  One of the guys from the yard said that some pickups have a
length of hose on the lower end.  If there is and it fell of, that
would explain it.
thx
Tom B

.¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
SV Alera
C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com




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Re: Stus-List Float switch fail tale (formerly stuffing box leak rates)

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

As for the Water Witch, I had a similar experience (only in the opposite way),  
The switch would get contaminated and would stay ON, generally a much more 
problematic issue.I went back to the Rule flapper float switches.  Not a 
perfect solution, I will agree.As for having a manual switch, I have two made 
by Rule with an on/off/automatic switch position and an LED light that turns on 
when the pump is running.  I really like the light, and have a story related to 
it:We had just gotten Astralis and were leaving the harbor to motorsail 120 
miles up to Madeira Beach.  About a mile out of the marina, I put a buddy at 
the helm to go down below and check everything.  At the helm station, I saw the 
bilge pump light lit up, and went checking only to find water running in under 
the engine, and after pulling out the large storage box behind the stern berth 
I found there was a crack in the exhaust hose as it exited the boat. We turned 
the boat around, went back to the dock and had it fixed 3 hours later.Had it 
not been for the LED on the light switch, I might not have noticed the pump 
running, and the problem could have gotten worse quickly.Food for thought,Bruce 
 Sent from Samsung tablet.
 Original message From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
 Date: 3/14/20  12:36 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: cenel...@aol.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Float switch 
fail tale (formerly stuffing box leak rates) 
My charger outputs go only to the batteries, which power the relay panel 
switches/breakers, one of which is the bilge pump. Should I use a fuse on the 
battery positive terminal in addition to the circuit breakers on the breaker 
panel?
(I don't recall whether the bilge pump circuit breaker was 'thrown' or not in 
the tale below).



I now also have an electronic switch--unfortunately it gets dirty often from 
the bilge and doesn't work until its cleaned off by hand. I think it is a Water 
Witch 200 (?).





Charlie


-Original Message-
From: ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
To: C 
Cc: ALAN BERGEN 
Sent: Sat, Mar 14, 2020 12:03 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Float switch fail tale (formerly stuffing box leak rates)





After two float switch failures, I switched to an electronic switch. No more 
failures. Besides having a circuit breaker on the AC side of your charger, you 
should have fuses in the DC side,



Alan Bergen

35 Mk III Thirsty

Rose City YC

Portland, OR 




On Sat, Mar 14, 2020 at 8:24 AM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
 wrote:





















Thanks all for your replies--I might need to tighten the packing gland or 
replace the packing material.












My fear about leaving the auto bilge pump on is a result of a failed float 
switch many moons ago:
















I was away from the boat between weekends (at least) and it may have been 
several weeks and left both the bilge pump and battery charger on as I always 
did.
















When I did get back to the boat, the bilge pump switch was on but it was not 
running--so I initially thought it probably failed. I try to start the engine 
and no joy--the battery was dead.







I check the charger, see that the AC power was on but the power converter 
breaker on the instrument panel was off. Thus I start to check out the Xantrex 
battery charger. 

















As I open the lazarette to have a look, I get a distinct 'smoky' order. I then 
notice that there is soot and a black 'spot' on the charger cover, near one of 
the ventilation 'slots' of the charger. Apparently (?) the charger was running 
continuously trying to keep the battery charged while something was 
continuously discharging it. (Ultimately, I noticed that the float switch was 
stuck in the high water position which led to these conclusions.)












With the soot/spot on the cover, things got pretty hot within and near the 
charger before the breaker went off.  I figure I was pretty close to having a 
fire start in the charger and the boat burning to the water line with no one 
around. 
















My thoughts may change but this episode put the fear of fire much higher on my 
discomfort zone than a sinking. Further, I don't believe any of the small bilge 
pumps that would 'fit' in my shallow bilge could keep up with any leaks of a 
serious nature--shaft seal leaks and water down the mast excluded. 
















Also, if it goes to the bottom I still have a boat, not a boat 'carcass' burned 
to the water line!
















There are probably better methods of bilge pump/float switch installs that 
might prevent a recurrence of the scenario above. Any lister suggestions would 
be welcome.













Ultimately the boat WAS protected by the AC circuit breaker in the charger 
circuit, but not before something in the charger got hot enough to 'smoke'. 













For now, I have almost been 'burned' once and prefer to never get almost 
'burned' again!
















Charlie Nelson





1995 C 36 XL/kcb





Water Phantom

Re: Stus-List Stuffing box leak rates

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Hi Pierre,I was interested in your comment and went to verify it, and found a 
huge disparity in results,  everything from the 1.14 you mention to as much as 
8 gallons per day, and some of those coming from seemingly reputable websites. 
Comments anyone?Sent from Samsung tablet.
 Original message From: Pierre Tremblay via CnC-List 
 Date: 3/14/20  7:12 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: C List 
 Cc: Pierre Tremblay  Subject: 
Re: Stus-List Stuffing box leak rates Just for reference, 1 drop per second is 
1.14 us gallon per day.Regards,Pierre TremblayAvalanche #54988C WK, hull 
#76

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Re: Stus-List Dumb question of the day - life rings, horseshoe or

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

I've never seen such a hood/sea anchor arrangement.  All the ones I have 
encountered have been styrofoam with a yellow or white cover.Sent from my 
Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
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Re: Stus-List Dumb question of the day - life rings, horseshoe or

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Interesting that through this discussion, few have noted any strong evidence or 
reason for going with a horseshoe or ring vs. A vastly cheaper throwable 
cushion that can serve multiple purposes.Other than apparent Canadian 
regulations,  and I have no intention of sailing from Tampa to Canada any time 
soon...  :)Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
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Re: Stus-List 34+ Idler Pulleys and Cabin Top Compression

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

While I agree with,  and respect Josh, having done the steering work on our 
37/40+ with similar but not as bad a problem, plan on a minimum of 3 days work 
to pull & replace the idler plate.  Given your comments about the condition, 
you need to plan on a bunch of other issues you can't see as of now.  Get a 
GOOD surveyor, but weigh the cost of the survey compared to your price point in 
both time and effort to get it into the condition you'll want and need. You 
might even run the issues past the owner now, saying "Realistically, x, y, and 
z need repair, and that alone totals $xx,xxx.  Will you be willing to take that 
and more off to get it back to a boat worth $yy,yyy?  If not, walk away before 
even getting the survey.Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 Date: 2/25/20  2:20 PM  (GMT-06:00) To: C List 
 Cc: Josh Muckley  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List 34+ Idler Pulleys and Cabin Top Compression The original carbon steel 
idler is no longer available from edson.  You'd have to make modifications to 
the deck in order to replace.  I thought I remembered the idler being ~$400.  
Maybe I'm mistaken.  The replacement cables are ~$100.  The work isn't that 
hard but it is a little bit of a PITA.The window delamination would not 
seriously concern me. The engine water flow shouldn't be too hard to overcome.  
Sometimes an old impeller just takes on a set and fails to prime itself.The 
sails are gonna set you back ~$3500 to $5000 each to replace.Upholstery is 
gonna be expensive.  $5k to $10kIf it's the boat you want and you can get a 
discount then I really haven't heard too much that would discourage me.  I'm a 
risk taker and a DIYerso YMMV.Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 
37+Solomons, MD On Mon, Feb 24, 2020, 17:52 Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
 wrote:List, We looked at a 1990 34+ this weekend and I 
could use your input on two items that were most concerning. The boat was much 
more of a project boat than we anticipated unfortunately. We hoped to get out 
for a sail, but it's not leaving the slip before some work is done. So obvious 
issues are below and photos here: 
https://photos.app.goo.gl/V5YhFQzmjZwnCytf6Heavy Rusting at base of the 
steering pedestal: When I first got on board and noticed the steering was quite 
stiff and a bit 'grinding.' I thought the steering column lock was on. However, 
since the idler pulleys and quadrant are above the deck on the 34+ it was easy 
to see a pile of large and significant flakes of rust at the base of the 
pedestal where the cables run aft to the quadrant. This was visible after the 
quadrant cover that is part of the cockpit sole was lifted. The cables were 
also not even seated on the quadrant or the pulleys and were grinding on the 
gel coat. I have since determined that this rust must have been from the idler 
plate. The cables were also shot as you might expect, with broken strands. This 
appears to be about $700 or so in materials for cables and a new idle plates 
and pulleys. Question is, how difficult is this to address? I will say, that 
the fact that the steering cable was not even on the quadrant or pulleys gave 
me pause about the truthfulness of the owner. We had corresponded and talked 
about going out for a test sail and we drove quite a bit to go see the boat. If 
the cables were off my quadrant I am pretty darn sure I would notice. There was 
no way to turn the rudder so how would a test sail have been possible? Core 
delamination at port light: Another item that gave me pause was a 
split/de-laminated core at the forward portion of the fixed port light. It felt 
dry, but I could make it compress/decompress with very little effort. I was 
told it was due to the boat being lifted in the wrong area by the yard. I 
suppose this could have been true given that the area was about 3-4 aft of the 
forward bulkhead, where the sling should have been. (Again, as an owner, I 
clearly flag on the lifelines where the bulkheads are for the lift operator 
given that my C owner's manual on my Rob Ball 30-2 instructs that the slings 
should be placed there.) So, what is your take on this damage? Is it not a big 
deal or sign of potentially larger demons? Other items: No cooling water when 
the engine started and ran. The strainer was cleared and the through hull was 
open so my assumption is that the vanes on the impeller are either loose inside 
the water pump or have already migrated into the heat exchanger. I have not had 
to fix this issue before. Major PITA? Expensive?Leaks. There were a number of 
leaks in the cabin top where the tell tale drip of rotten core was showing. I 
am willing to understand a certain amount of this in a 30 y.o. boat, but there 
may be too much. Upholstery was shot. The video showed some ok looking 
upholstery, but it was much worse in real life. It was worn and stained in a 
number of places and I wondered if the foam was salvagable. What do you think a 

Stus-List 37/40+ Propane sensor location?

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Hello all,So I'm going to mount a propane alarm, and would like to get your 
collective wisdom on where the sensor should be located.  I know it should be 
low, and the two sources of propane would be at the connections in the propane 
locker, which should go down the drain overboard.  The second is at the 
fittings at the stove.  Of course, a hose could chafe through or fail as well.  
So, in a dry space in the bilge, or near the stove?  Where did you put it to 
protect it from kicking, etc?Thanks!Bruce 1994 C/40+"Astralis"Madeira 
Beach, FLSent from Samsung tablet.___

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Re: Stus-List C 37+ -- Head Vented Loop?

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

In the U.S, at least, boats can have a y valve that discharges overboard in the 
Great Lakes, but the must be shut off and locked off either using a lock or zip 
tie.  I know this because in Chicago we used to have to have annual inspections 
(which in our old 27MKIII showed we had no Y valve at all).Now I will say, that 
is unless something has changed in the last few years...Bruce 1994 C 
37/40+"Astralis"Sent from Samsung tablet.
 Original message From: Chuck Saur via CnC-List 
 Date: 2/14/20  9:38 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Chuck Saur  Subject: Stus-List 
C 37+ -- Head Vented Loop? Edd...I had to disconnect and take the Y-valve 
out.  As I understand it, you cannot have overboard discharge in the great 
lakes.  Perhaps the PO of my boat did some earlier surgery...Chuck Saur517 
490-5926 Cell 
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Re: Stus-List C 37+ -- Head Vented Loop?

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

The loop leads to the seacock out of the hull, not the tank.Just FYI,Bruce Sent 
from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: Chuck Saur via CnC-List 
 Date: 2/14/20  5:17 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Chuck Saur  Subject: Stus-List 
C 37+ -- Head Vented Loop? Hello Edd...no vented loop on my 1990 37+.  I 
checked and can see the waste hose enter the holding tank at the top of the 
tank.  Have not had issues...yet!  If you choose to do that, let me know how 
you fit in into the space there!  I did change out the entire pump assembly on 
a head rebuild last year, and the joker valve now works fine.  Yuck.  I will 
keep a spare...csChuck Saur517 490-5926 Cell 
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Re: Stus-List C 37+ -- Head Vented Loop?

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Hi Edd,Yes, ours has a vented loop and in ours, we can get to it through one of 
the medicine cabinets behind the sink.  I think it is the middle one.  In there 
is a small inspection port, and behind that is the loop.I can take a photo over 
the weekend if desired.Bruce Whitmore Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy 
smartphone
 Original message From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
 Date: 2/13/20  2:36 PM  (GMT-06:00) To: Edd Schillay 
via CnC-List  Cc: Edd Schillay  
Subject: Stus-List C 37+ -- Head Vented Loop? Listers,I’m installing a new 
head into the Enterprise next week. Without my x-ray vision, I can’t really see 
what’s going on behind the wall there. Does anyone know if the boat came 
standard with a vented loop installed? While the head will sit just above the 
waterline, I know it does go under when heeled. 
All the best,EddEdd M. SchillayCaptain of the Starship EnterpriseC 37+ | Sail 
No: NCC-1701-BVenice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FLStarship Enterprise's 
Captain's Log  

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Re: Stus-List Interior teak water stains

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

My 94 37/40+ did not seem to be oiled, but rather sealed with lacquer.  Using 
lacquer thinner and alcohol is enough to soften it/ use it as a remover.  
Following the with a furniture scraper or equipment was good enough to allow my 
to redcoat with lacquer.Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
 Date: 2/11/20  5:10 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: cenel...@aol.com Subject: Stus-List Interior teak 
water stains 
My interior teak has never been varnished or polyurethaned (?)--It was 
originally oiled and I re-oiled it once or twice many years ago.



I would like to apply some Epiphanes to all of it--and there is a lot of it 
inside my 1995 C! However, much of it has 'water stains' from various leaks 
over the years--most of which are now sealed. 




My question for the list is how or whether to remove these stains--they are not 
like water marks left by a glass on a wooden table. They are mostly on vertical 
surfaces and run vertically. There are enough of them to make sanding them a 
formidable job so I want to be sure that sanding would be necessary. 




Some web videos show using heat (iron, blow dryers, etc.) to drive the 
remaining water out and make the stain disappear which is easy enough to try. 




Anyone on the list have suggestions to reduce the scale of this job--putting 
several coats of varnish on all of it would be a formidable job in 
itself--adding sanding to the surface prep, which I realize is probably the 
most important part of the job, could make it virtually impossible!




Charlie Nelson

Water Phantom

1995 C XL/kcb







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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] New thought re: anchor light?

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Great idea, and very attractive!The only question is, my cove stripe is red.  
So does that mean I'd have to make it green on the port side?  :)Bruce 1994 
C/40"Astralis"Sent from Samsung tablet.
null___

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Re: Stus-List New thought re: anchor light?

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Agreed.  Whether it be replacing incandescent bulbs with LEDs in the taillights 
of your car or the navigation lights on your boat, you need to put a red bulb 
behind a red lens, a green bulb behind a green lens, and a yellow bulb behind 
yellow turn signal lenses.Lenses filter all colors except the desired output, 
and so you're stripping out a lot of the light if you use white LEDs.And, I can 
attest that when I put the MarineBeam LEDs in our bow lights, they are truly 
bright!Kindest Regards, Bruce Sent from Samsung tablet.
null___

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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] New thought re: anchor light?

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Rick, I love the idea of the SOLAS tape!Thanks everyone for a lot of great 
insights and ideas.  I'm going to mull it around for q bit before making a 
final decision.Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
null___

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Re: Stus-List Wanted - Used Practice Spinnaker

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Hi Edd,Potentially.  I'm out of town on business right now, I'll give it some 
thought while flying later today.Thanks!Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy 
smartphone
 Original message From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
 Date: 1/31/20  11:19 AM  (GMT-08:00) To: Edd Schillay 
via CnC-List  Cc: Edd Schillay , 
bwhitmore  Subject: Re: Stus-List Wanted - Used 
Practice Spinnaker Bruce,Any interest in parting with just the sock? 
All the best,EddEdd M. SchillayCaptain of the Starship EnterpriseC 37+ | Sail 
No: NCC-1701-BVenice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FLStarship Enterprise's 
Captain's Log  

On Jan 30, 2020, at 7:02 PM, bwhitmore via CnC-List  
wrote:Sorry, I don't have specs in front of me, but I have a symmetrical I 
would be willing to part with from a 37/40+.  It has a sock as wellBruce 
Whitmore Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone Original 
message From: Rod Stright via CnC-List  Date: 
1/30/20  4:33 PM  (GMT-07:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Rod Stright 
 Subject: Stus-List Wanted - Used Practice Spinnaker Hey 
Guys/Gals in case you ordered a new spinnaker this winter or are no longer 
racing I am looking for a used racing spinnaker in reasonable condition as a 
practice spinnaker.  Luff approximately 46’ and mid girth/foot approximately 26 
– 27’.  Boats I measurement 46’ and J 14.5’.  PM me at strig...@eastlink.ca if 
you have something that might work. ThanksRod  
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this list with your contributions.  Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  
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Re: Stus-List Wanted - Used Practice Spinnaker

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Sorry, I don't have specs in front of me, but I have a symmetrical I would be 
willing to part with from a 37/40+.  It has a sock as wellBruce Whitmore Sent 
from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: Rod Stright via CnC-List 
 Date: 1/30/20  4:33 PM  (GMT-07:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Rod Stright  Subject: Stus-List 
Wanted - Used Practice Spinnaker Hey Guys/Gals in case you ordered a new 
spinnaker this winter or are no longer racing I am looking for a used racing 
spinnaker in reasonable condition as a practice spinnaker.  Luff approximately 
46’ and mid girth/foot approximately 26 – 27’.  Boats I measurement 46’ and J 
14.5’.  PM me at strig...@eastlink.ca if you have something that might work. 
ThanksRod  ___

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Re: Stus-List Holding tanks

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

There is a firm out of Ft. Lauderdale they distribute through.Sent from my 
Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
 Date: 1/28/20  7:20 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: John and Maryann Read  
Subject: Stus-List Holding tanks Hi JohnPerhaps a dumb question, but Kracor 
must be selling tanks to stay inbusiness and if they only work through 
distributors or OEM's there must besome who will deal with the public  Will 
Kracor provide a list ofdistributors??  Maybe try some boat OEM's??Best of 
luckJohn and MaryannLegacy III1982 C 34Noank, CT-Original 
Message-From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
JohnMcCrea via CnC-ListSent: Monday, January 27, 2020 9:50 AMTo: 'SEAN CONNER'; 
cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: John McCreaSubject: Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 
168, Issue 55Thanks Sean. My research had brought me to Ronco for the same 18 
gallontank. So I must be on the right path. Will get the book!-Original 
Message-From: SEAN CONNER  Sent: Saturday, January 
25, 2020 5:07 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List CnC-List 
Digest, Vol 168, Issue 55I just completed a total head plumbing refit on our 
new boat, and wanted toconcur with Adrian's comments. I ended up adding a new 
holding tank as well(long story) and fortunately I was able to figure out the 
model of the OEMKracor tank.  Ronco then used that info and came up with a 
nearly exactmatch.  So if you can draft a good dimensional drawing, they will 
likelyfind a stock mold that will fit.  For us it ended up being an 18 
gallontank.  I ordered a blank tank and the total cost including shipping to 
NHwas about $340.   BTW, I also used Peggy's book as a guide, and usedUniseals 
for the fittings installed on top of tank.  easy peasy.  Good luck!> > Message: 
2> Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2020 16:54:03 -0500> From: Adrian Humphreys 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List 
Head Tank Replacement.> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: 
text/plain; charset=us-ascii> > Ronco-Plastics.com> > They have ready-made 
tooling for a lot of different tanks, and will workwith you to find one that 
fits your need. Make a dimensioned drawing forthem. The tank is roto-molded 
when you order, so you can specify thefittings you want.  The original tank 
under the v-berth on our C hadthe outlet at the bottom of the vee where it 
had cracked and leaked. Wespecified a "dip-tube" outlet, so all the fittings 
(inlet, vent, inspectionport, and outlet) are on or near the top. The tank we 
chose is a very closematch to the original and fits the space well. They will 
also create customtooling, but IIRC, the price estimate started at $2,000+> > 
Cost was a little over $300 for our 18 gallon tank and fittings; UPSshipping 
from California was almost half that. Rich Gray at Ronco was agreat help.> > We 
added all new plumbing, larger vent, hand bilge pump to empty it, anexternal 
sensor kit from ferriellosales.com/monitoring-systems.html($150.00), and a lot 
of labor. The Peggy Hall book was essential to theplanning 
(amazon.com/New-Get-Rid-Boat-Odors/).> > Adrian Humphreys> Epilogue, Rockport 
ME> C 33-2 > adri...@telamontech.com> > > > > > On Jan 24, 2020, at 9:30 AM, 
John McCrea via CnC-List wrote:> > > > Hello. I am in 
the process of replacing the holding tank on our 1979 C We bought the boat 
in 2018 and it had a bladder for a tank under the v.I want to go back to the 
original configuration of the 24-gallon plastictank. I visited a sister ship 
last weekend and after taking all thedimensions, I found the tank on the Kracor 
website. Kracor no longer sellsto the public. Through some marine industry 
connections, I did find out thatTartan does have the toolings for that tank but 
said that be prepared to paya lot for it. As in over $500. Does anyone else 
know of a source for eithera custom tank or something similar to the original? 
Thanks!> >  > > John McCrea> > Talisman> > Mystic, CT> > 
___> > > > Thanks everyone for 
supporting this list with your contributions.  Eachand every one is greatly 
appreciated.  If you want to support the list - usePayPal to send contribution 
--   
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>___Thanks
 everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each andevery one 
is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - usePayPal to send 
contribution --   
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 everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and every one 
is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send 
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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to 

Re: Stus-List Head Tank Replacement.

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Kracor will no longer sell to individuals.  Not even the caps for the tanks.  I 
had to get them through the firm in Ft. Lauderdale.Sent from Samsung tablet.
 Original message From: ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
 Date: 1/24/20  11:46 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: C 
 Cc: ALAN BERGEN  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Head Tank Replacement. When I replaced my holding tank, Kracor told 
me to go through Lewis Marine in Fort Lauderdale, FL (800) 327-3792. Kracor is 
in Milwaukee, WI, and I didn't want to pay the extra shipping charges 
(Wisconsin to Florida to Oregon), so I had them drop ship the tank to me. Total 
cost, in 2007, for the twenty-four gallon tank was $535.39 plus $53.83 shipping 
and handling. Oregon has no sales tax. I'll send you a copy of the tank 
drawing, and you can see whether it's the same tank. The locations of the vent 
and inlet were slightly different than on my old tank, but I was still able to 
work with the new dimensions.Alan Bergen35 Mk III ThirstyRose City YCPortland, 
OROn Fri, Jan 24, 2020 at 6:31 AM John McCrea via CnC-List 
 wrote:Hello. I am in the process of replacing the 
holding tank on our 1979 C 36. We bought the boat in 2018 and it had a 
bladder for a tank under the v. I want to go back to the original configuration 
of the 24-gallon plastic tank. I visited a sister ship last weekend and after 
taking all the dimensions, I found the tank on the Kracor website. Kracor no 
longer sells to the public. Through some marine industry connections, I did 
find out that Tartan does have the toolings for that tank but said that be 
prepared to pay a lot for it. As in over $500. Does anyone else know of a 
source for either a custom tank or something similar to the original? Thanks! 
John McCreaTalismanMystic, CT___

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Re: Stus-List Fuel guage issue

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

I replaced ours with one from West Marine due to being an a bit of a rush to 
get it fixed.  I could have ordered a similar one online for less.  Pretty 
cheap and it measures fine despite cautions online about having to match sender 
impedance.They really are pretty standard units.Bruce Whitmore1994 C 
37/40+"Astralis"Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: Richard Bush via CnC-List 
 Date: 1/15/20  5:22 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Richard Bush  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Fuel guage issue 

 Hi all; I took the gauge panel apart to see why the fuel gauge wasn't working; 
when I checked the connections, it worked fine; however, when I went to put 
everything back together, the front 


 piece of the fuel gauge, (clear plastic, within a black plastic ring) came off 
of the whole assembly and I cannot find a way to re-connect it; there are no 
screw spirals, or tabs or anything, I believe it simply broke off;




I checked the Yanmar Operation Manual and the Yanmar parts catalogue and 
neither even mentions a fuel gauge;




the boat is 1985 37;

Engine is Yanmar, model 3HMF, 3-cylinder; original to boat;




So, what say ye...is it repairable, or should I look for a new gauge..and if 
so, what kind




Thank you in advance, and please let me know if you need more info...






Richard

 

s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596;








Richard N. Bush Law Offices 


2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 


Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 


502-584-7255


 



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Re: Stus-List Spreader Bracket

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Let me go one further - No matter the knots you tie here and there, nothing 
will protect the boat from damaged caused by a flogging jib like tying around 
the jib itself, especially through the clue with a sail tie.  Furling lines can 
chafe.  They can break.  The only way to ensure the jib from unfurling is to 
put a safety tie around it.I do it every time I tie up to the dock, as it takes 
only seconds to undo, and I've witnessed too many destroyed jibs & genoas 
because they relied solely on the roller furling line to keep things under 
control in a blow.Just my $.02 worth,Bruce WhitmoreC 37/40+"Astralis"Sent 
from Samsung tablet.
 Original message From: Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
 Date: 1/8/20  9:33 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Shawn Wright  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Spreader Bracket All this talk has my thinking I should double up on 
my furler lines. I tie a quick loop knot around the final blocks mounted at the 
cockpit so I can just pull the loop to release them. The line is also flaked 
and hung from the stern rain, but that's probably not going to save me should 
the knot come free. I also do two wraps of the sheets around the furler. I 
think I'll add a more secure knot at the final block to be safe. --Shawn 
wrightshawngwri...@gmail.coms/V Callisto, 1974 C 
35https://www.facebook.com/SVCallistoOn Wed, Jan 8, 2020 at 5:34 PM Matthew L. 
Wolford via CnC-List  wrote:







Tom:
 
    I don’t know the vintage of your 36, but I’ll bet it’s 
close to my previous 34.  They were similar boats.
 
    One morning, I got a call from the dockmaster where I 
kept my 34.  The boat reportedly tried to sail out of the slip by itself in 
a heavy breeze.  I later discovered that my then-young children had 
un-cleated the roller furler line while playing with the winch.  The sail 
unfurled in the breeze, and at some point the genny sheet wrapped around a 
lower 
shroud and ripped it out of the mast.  I had to replace the shroud (rod 
rigging) and also have the mast repaired (welded) just below the spreader 
bracket.  Your issue is obviously different, but in my case South Shore 
Yachts was very helpful.  They also had a direct replacement for a 
gooseneck fitting that broke.  I suggest calling them.
 
Robert MacLachlan
South Shore Yachts
905-468-4340 office
905-658-8454 cell


 
P.S.  Much more careful about securing the 
roller furler when I leave the boat these days.
 

From: Tom Alessi via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, January 08, 2020 4:45 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Tom Alessi 
Subject: Stus-List Spreader Bracket
 


Went to check up on 
my boat the other day and found that my lower port spreader bracket had been 
pulled off the mast, but still attached to spreader.  Seems a nearby 
sailboat owner had not removed the jib and it came unfurled during a storm and 
caught hold of the spreader boot. I can only imagine it violently shaking my 
spreader and rig. With the bracket partially off I can see a hole in the 
mast.
- Is that some kind 
of access opening behind the bracket? Or is it worse than that? I'm buried in 
the yard and the mast won't be down till spring.
-If the bracket or 
spreader is destroyed, does anyone know of a source for 
replacements?
- Boat owner or 
Boatyard responsible?
Appreciate any 
info.
 
Tom AlessiAndiamo 
C 36646-283-1580
 


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Stus-List Anchor chain hook on bow?

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Hello all,I was reading through one of the sailing magazines, and there was 
commentary about the value of a windlass or "at least an anchor chain hook" you 
can use to take a break when hoisting anchor.  While I don't feel the need for 
a windlass yet, I have had situations when raising the anchor where I've needed 
to wrap chain around one of the forward cleats because a wind gust is blowing 
me off.  This usually results in some chain finding its way through my hands, 
and much more concerning is the chance for hands to be caught between the chain 
and the cleat with crushingly obvious consequences.  If I had the ability to 
easily hook the chain to hold it while the bow swings off the wind or for the 
purposes of pulling the hook out of the mud would be helpful.  Is there such a 
hook that can be permanently mounted on the bow/anchor roller where I could 
simply put the chain under moderate tension for a minute or two while things 
get sorted out?Thanks in advance for your insights,Bruce Whitmore C 37/40+ 
"Astralis"Madeira Beach, FL Sent from Samsung tablet.___

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Re: Stus-List Re core my deck

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

I had very good results with Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer (CPES) about 18 
years ago.   I no longer own the boat but sailed it twice over the summer.   
The 12 × 18 areas of rot are still solid.  It won't help if the core has rotted 
away entirely,  but if you test it and there is still balsa ther, I'd try 
it.Just my $.02 worth, Bruce Whitmore 1994 C 37/40+ "Astralis "Sent from 
Samsung tablet.
 Original message From: David Morrison via CnC-List 
 Date: 1/1/20  6:11 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: JP Mail 
, Stu  Cc: David Morrison 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Re core my deck Look in to 
Injecta-deck.  i can attest that is works well and holds up.


 Original Message 
Subject: Stus-List Re core my deck
From: JP Mail 
Date: Wed, January 01, 2020 12:02 pm
To: Stu 

1985 35-3.
I Need to recore a 1.5’ x 3’ area of deck. 
I’ve started researching.
But I know there is good info here. 
Best material, divinycell or balsa?
Anyone know the thickness I’d need? 
Best type fiberglass to finish with?
Best way to hide it all? Deck paint and Nonskid?
Thanks in advance. 
I’ve watched a bunch of youtube and I have mentally prepared myself to take 
this on. 
Jon
Hideaway 
Sent from my iPhone



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Re: Stus-List Fitting transmission with different gear ratio

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

You may want to check with Al Holzer of Schooner Bay Marine in Bayfield 
Wisconsin.  He sent me an overhauled KBW 10 for $1,500 (IIRC) plus shipping.   
A direct exchange.  There was a bump in the road, but Al took care of it like a 
gentleman.I would highly recommend his services.  However,  he may be taking 
off time now that it's the depth of winter up there.If you reach out to him, 
please mention my referral.Please email me if you want more information.Bruce 
Whitmore 1994 C 37/40+ "Astralis"Sent from Samsung tablet.
 Original message From: Olivier Chatot via CnC-List 
 Date: 1/1/20  4:43 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Olivier Chatot  Subject: Stus-List 
Fitting transmission with different gear ratio Hi all,I have an interesting 
situation with my transmission. I would like to share it with you and get some 
opinions.I have a Yanmar 3HM35F engine with a Kanzaki KBW10 transmission. I 
need to replace this transmission because it's been malfunctioning.Someone near 
me has a new Kanzaki KM3P for sale. I believe the mounting flange is the same 
shape and size, so physically mounting this transmision would be 
possible.However, this transmission has a different gear ratio than my old 
transmission. My old transmission has a gear ratio of 2.14 (2.50 in reverse) 
and the new transmission has a gear ratio of 2.61 (3.16 in reverse). Since the 
gear ratio of the new transmission is higher, the prop would turn more slowly. 
But I believe it would be safe.Do you agree that it would be safe to use a 
transmission with a higher gear ratio? Or, do you see something important I'm 
missing?Other specs of the two transmissions are identical. Notably, the 
rotation direction of the two transmissions are the same.Any comment is greatly 
appreciated.Olivier ChatotC 38-3
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Re: Stus-List C 2020 Gulf-Coast Rendezvous (?)

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Hi Edd,Sorry for the delayed response.  Either dates are OK with me, and I 
would hope to bring Astralis to the party.  However, March will be warmer, 
though it may begin to conflict with Spring Break, and hotels may be more 
expensive.Food for thought,Bruce WhitmoreSent from Samsung tablet.
 Original message From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
 Date: 12/27/19  10:07 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Edd Schillay  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List C 2020 Gulf-Coast Rendezvous (?) Rick,Great to hear from you. To be 
honest, the response has been very underwhelming. I think February may be too 
soon and am now considering early March. Any thoughts? Anyone? Anyone? Bueller? 
All the best,EddEdd M. SchillayCaptain of the Starship EnterpriseC 37+ | Sail 
No: NCC-1701-BVenice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FLStarship Enterprise's 
Captain's Log  

On Dec 26, 2019, at 7:51 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List  
wrote:Edd; Have you any more details about the potential rendezvous? Or 
indications of interest from potential participants? I’m working on my 
travel/work plans, and will plan to drive down for the rendezvous. I just need 
to confirm the date. Is there anything I can do to help? Rick Brass From: 
CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd Schillay via 
CnC-ListSent: Tuesday, December 10, 2019 5:05 PMTo: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
Cc: Edd Schillay Subject: Stus-List 
C 2020 Gulf-Coast Rendezvous (?) Listers, Thank you for the survey results — 
and based on them, I am considering the following, and would appreciate any 
input you may have before I start solidifying: The dates I’m leaning towards 
are February 7-9 and the best possible location would be at Marina Jack’s in 
the middle of downtown Sarasota. Marina Jack has a restaurant on site, plenty 
of deep-water slips (with floating docks), a wealth of marine services, a 
meeting space, onsite restaurant and more. It’s also right at the foot of 
famous downtown Sarasota, a fabulous walking area filled with shops, galleries, 
cafes, bars, restaurants, a comedy club, an opera house, and so much more.  
There are also hotels nearby, and I’m confident I can obtain for us a lower 
group rate at the Hyatt Regency just a few blocks from the marina. And, this is 
all a ten-minute cab ride from the SRQ airport, for those who would want to fly 
in.  I’m thinking arrivals on Friday, followed by a group pot-luck dinner on 
Friday night. On Saturday, we can do a C boat show, possibly have Stu or 
someone come in for a seminar/talk, have a group dinner at a local restaurant 
(or bus everyone to my club), followed by a pub crawl. Then departures on 
Sunday.  The average daytime high for that time of year will be in the low 70s 
(insert my new catch phrase here) with overnight lows in the mid 50s. I think 
we’d get at least five-six (or more) C to attend, including the Enterprise.  
I now welcome your thoughts (even Risch’s) as to timing, if you’d consider 
attending (by boat or by land), and what it would take to make it a must-see 
C Rendezvous. All the best, Edd  Edd M. SchillayCaptain of the Starship 
EnterpriseC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-BVenice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log   
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump switches

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

That is why I use heat shrink crimp connectors, coat the wire with tef gel 
before crimping, shrink the tubing and follow with coating the connector with 
liquid electrical tape.Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
 Date: 12/16/19  11:14 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list 
 Cc: Joel Aronson  Subject: 
Stus-List Bilge pump switches While we are talking about bilge pump controls, 
is there a switch that does NOT use the crappy slide on connectors?  I've 
zip-tied so they are not likely to get pulled off, but it is still only  a 
friction fitting.If anything on the boat needs a secure connection, it is the 
bilge pump!-- Joel 
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Re: Stus-List Bilge cycle counter

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Actually, I would like to know as well, and would install a cheap version,  but 
I've not found on, but have not looked very hard. Why?  Because I want to know 
how much my boat leaks and if a trend is happening I don't know about. Am I 
getting a lot of water in the bilge when it rains?  When the water tanks are 
filled? When I'm motoring?When we moved Astralis from the slip to her current 
home, we were we 10 minutes out of the slip when I went down below and saw the 
light on the bilge pump switch glowing.  I tracked it down to a cracked and 
leaking exhaust hose all the way back where the hose attached to the hull 
outlet.  Had we had a counter when we surveyed the boat,  we would have caught 
it right away.Ok, I'm a bit over the top, but things like this make me feel 
better...Bruce Whitmore 1994 C 37/40+Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy 
smartphone
 Original message From: dwight veinot via CnC-List 
 Date: 12/13/19  7:31 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: dwight veinot  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Bilge cycle counter You know man. Tell us all please And does it 
matter: wet or dry on these older sailboats.  A wet bilge is a wet bilge. Hard 
to avoid on most 1970’s designs so probably possible on most older C designs. 
Actually a wet bilge is not that hard to live with on my boat the way i enjoy 
sailing. On Fri, Dec 13, 2019 at 4:52 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List 
 wrote:I, like many of us, am sometimes off the boat for 
days/weeks.  I'd like to track the bilge cycles to indicate a problem.There are 
several options.Buy a nice purpose built bilge cycle counter like the one from 
Water Witch for $80 or so Replace my existing bilge switch with the Watch Witch 
ePanel switch/counter for $180Buy a cheap non-marine 12 vdc counter for $5 The 
Water Witch counters provide 14 day, 7 day and 24 hour counts.  That could be 
more helpful the cheap unit's single count from when you left the boat.  I like 
the more expensive options but at the same time.I guess I have 
3 questions.Do any of you use a cycle counter and do you find it helpful?How 
would one wire the cheap counter?  I suspect you just parallel it off the back 
of the switch across the "auto" out and the ground.  Each time the float switch 
activates the counter would see voltage and count.Does anyone have a better 
simple elegant solution?Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA
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-- Sent from Gmail Mobile
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Re: Stus-List Force 10 battery holder.

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

We use the stovetop burners on average a couple times a month,  as when we can 
we stay Saturday nights on the boat and have a breakfast routine on Sunday 
mornings.  Mysti the sailing kitty usually spends the night with us as well.  
Its turning into a nice getaway weekend...Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy 
smartphone
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Re: Stus-List Force 10 Stove Parts?

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Ours was as well, and it was under one corner (I thought the left instead of 
the right), but it was really easy to replace with a battery holder with a wire 
running out of each end.  I re-wired that new holder in the circuit and mounted 
it, and the sparker has now run perfectly for about 3 years.  I love that the 
sparker works every time.   Easy peasy, and cheap as well!Bruce Whitmore1994 
C+ "Astralis"Madeira Beach, FLSent from Samsung tablet.
 Original message From: John Conklin via CnC-List 
 Date: 12/11/19  8:20 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: John Conklin  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Force 10 Stove Parts? Well once I finally found the battery location 
on my force 10 stove under Rt hand front corner I see that is completely 
corrodedSo it BBQ Stick lighter for me John Conklin S/V Halcyon On Dec 11, 
2019, at 7:31 PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List  wrote:I 
don't have any ideas on parts, but we have a Force 10 stove and also a BBQ on 
the rail. Both are nice quality so hopefully they will keep going. I was a bit 
disappointed that I spent some time replacing the battery holder for the 
ignitor on the stove, but it doesn't work well. It sparks with a nice strong 
spark on each burner, but with the gas flowing outward from the burners, it 
doesn't ignite that well. I'm not comfortable having unburnt propane spilling 
out, so I'll keep using a manual lighter, which works well.--Shawn 
wrightshawngwri...@gmail.coms/V Callisto, 1974 C 
35https://www.facebook.com/SVCallistoOn Tue, Dec 10, 2019 at 12:39 PM Rick 
Rohwer via CnC-List  wrote:Sure Marine rocks!  Is Force 
10 gone?  I talked with them a few years ago and they requested that I order 
parts from Sure Marine.  At that time Sure ordered regularly but wanted to 
minimize freight by ordering in truckload quantity.  It took longer unless you 
agreed to shipping and handling.They may have distributors in other 
markets.RickPaikea. 37+Sent from my iPadOn Dec 10, 2019, at 18:20, Doug 
Mountjoy via CnC-List  wrote:Edd,try sure marine in 
seattle. https://www.suremarineservice.com/Galley/Force-10/Doug MountjoyOn Tue, 
Dec 10, 2019 at 9:13 AM Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
wrote:Listers,Anyone know a good source for Force 10 stove parts? I’m looking 
for the sliding piece of metal tube with the knob that keeps the stove from 
gimbaling and a replacement “face plate” which sits behind the knobs. 
All the best,EddEdd M. SchillayCaptain of the Starship EnterpriseC 37+ | Sail 
No: NCC-1701-BVenice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FLStarship Enterprise's 
Captain's Log  

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-- Douglas Mountjoy253-208-1412Port Orchard YC, WARebecca LeahLF39
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Re: Stus-List C+ starboard tack / head

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Len,My experience does not agree with yours, with the idea that both the 
anti-siphon valve and head check valve have to be malfunctioning to fill the 
bowl with clear water.  Ours filled with clear (sea) water until we replaced 
the head check valve, and we have no indication of a problem with the 
anti-siphon valve.Replacing the pump on the Jabsco head, including replacing 
the joker valve solved the problem, and it's been fixed for almost a year 
now.We've also not had a problem with the sink in the v berth filling. Just my 
$.02 worth,Bruce 1994 C/40+"Astralis"Sent from Samsung tablet.
 Original message From: Len Mitchell via CnC-List 
 Date: 11/30/19  12:20 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: CNC List 
 Cc: Len Mitchell  Subject: 
Stus-List C+ starboard tack / head Edd, BOTH the anti siphon valve and head 
check valve have to be malfunctioning as others have said to have the bowl fill 
with clear water. Black water would be a joker valve issue if you use your 
holding tank. We also have an issue with the V berth sink on a port tack 
filling with water so I installed a 1/4 turn drain valve because the thru hull 
valve is so difficult to access. It only happens 7.5-8.5 knots. All good now 
because she has been sitting on her steel cradle for a month!!!Len 
MitchellCrazy Legs89 C 37+ Midland On. Sent from my mobile device. 
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Re: Stus-List C 37+ / Starboard Tack / Head

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Hi Edd, Ours used to do that until I replaced the Jabsco head pump.  There is a 
diaphragm that, when the lever is in the pump out (right) position stops 
backflow into the head.Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
 Date: 11/30/19  9:58 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Edd Schillay  Subject: Stus-List 
C 37+ / Starboard Tack / Head Listers,While it has been happening since Day 
One, yesterday, during our first Black Friday Sail in the beautiful Gulf (suck 
it, northerners), I could see water coming in to the head from the rim while 
heeled on Starboard tack. The water will fill the tank and overflow. Has anyone 
come up with a simple solution for this? I’d like to avoid going under the sink 
and close/open through-hulls every time I sail or use the head. All the best, 
Edd———-Edd M. SchillayCaptain of the “Starship Enterprise”C 37+ | 
Sail No.: NCC-1701-BVenice Yacht Club | Venice Island, 
FLwww.StarshipSailing.com———-914.774.9767   | 
Mobile———-Sent via iPhone 11 ProiPhone iTypos. iApologize___

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Re: Stus-List Great Lakes water levels...for C

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

The high water levels in the Great Lakes are being caused by intense low 
temperatures which freeze the surface and stop evaporation.  It is the same 
function as pool covers here in Florida.  Interestingly,  evaporation on the 
lakes is highest when the humidity is low. So if you folks get another cold 
winter, the lakes will rise again.We had out 27 MKIII in Chicago for 15 years, 
and in about 2012, we were all worried about the historic low levels.  Now you 
have to step up to get on the tenders, Queen's Landing which uses to be a lower 
level for storing dinghys along the harbor is now a cement beach, and the break 
wall around the harbor is almost completely underwater, posing a hazard for 
those the uninitiated.Another cold winter and Lake Shore Drive will become a 
skating rink when the Nor'Easters come knocking.  It has happened before.  This 
is likely to become the year it happens again.Bruce Sent from Samsung tablet.
null___

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Re: Stus-List delrin washer

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

McMaster Carr and use hole saws on a sheet?Just an idea...Sent from my Verizon, 
Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
 Date: 11/20/19  9:18 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Dave Godwin  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List delrin washer Was just getting ready to suggest the same. I’ve had 
several made up by them over the years.LinkRegards,
Dave Godwin1982 C 37 - RoninReedville - Chesapeake BayRonin’s Overdue Refit

On Nov 20, 2019, at 9:14 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
wrote:Maritime Plastics in Annapolis. On Wed, Nov 20, 2019 at 9:00 PM John and 
Maryann Read via CnC-List  wrote:Any suggestions of 
source(s) for delrin washer   3 ½ OD, 1 5/8 ID, 1/8 thk.  Google is no help TIA 
 John and MaryannLegacy III1982 C 34Noank, CT  
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-- Joel 301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Fwd: Cabin Sole resurfacing

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Hi Mike and group,  If anyone has good photos of the installed Lonseal PlasTeak 
product,  I'd like to see them.As much as I am a traditionalist, ease of repair 
my win out.I'd really like to know if you can notice a distinct difference 
between this and real teak.Thanks!Bruce Sent from Samsung tablet.
 Original message From: Mike Taylor via CnC-List 
 Date: 11/9/19  4:42 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Mike Taylor  Subject: 
Stus-List Fwd:  Fwd:  Cabin Sole resurfacing Hi RodHere is a link to the 
product I purchased from Defender.  Correction on product name.  PlasTeak is 
the trade name.  Lonseal makes them 
all.https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1%7C2276179%7C2276198%7C2276201=3325405I’m
 on the east coast now I could provide pics next week when I get home.MikeBegin 
forwarded message:From: Rod Stright Date: November 9, 
2019 at 5:06:27 PM ASTCc: Mike Taylor Subject: Re:  
Stus-List Fwd:  Cabin Sole resurfacingCan you send additional info haven’t 
heard of it here.ThanksRod Sent from my iPhoneOn Nov 9, 2019, at 4:46 PM, Mike 
Taylor via CnC-List  wrote:DaveI went with PlasTeak a 
few years ago.  New plywood with 2 coats of West system epoxy.  Looks real 
good.  Got it at Defender.  Can send some tips and pics if you desire.MikeBegin 
forwarded message:From: David Knecht via CnC-List Date: 
November 9, 2019 at 9:22:28 AM ASTTo: CnC discussion list CnC 
Cc: David Knecht Subject: 
Stus-List Cabin Sole resurfacingReply-To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comThe cabin sole 
on my boat is not in great shape.  There are areas where the holly stripes and 
are gone or pulling away.   I am considering what to do and have a vague 
recollection of someone using a glue-on faux teak/holley covering over the wood 
(Nautikflor?) but I can’t find that discussion anywhere in the archives.  Has 
anyone done that?  Thanks- Dave
S/V Aries1990 C 34+New London, CT




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 everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and every one 
is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send 
contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray___

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Re: Stus-List Cabin Sole resurfacing

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

I'm looking at replacing ours as well, though probably sometime next year.  
What is the preferred method of sealing and varnishing the wood?  What varnish 
did you use?  Did you seal the underside with epoxy?  If so, what kind?Bruce 
Whitmore 1994 C 37/40+"Astralis"Sent from Samsung tablet.
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Re: Stus-List Stu

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

I would certainly welcome a C Florida Rendevous!  I am in Madeira Beach, on 
the Gulf side of the Tampa area, so I would be in favor of the West Coast.I 
think a speaker talking about cruising the Sun (West) Coast of Florida would be 
particularly insightful, as many of the passes are too shallow, some of the 
anchorages have great access to restaurants and facilities, and others, well, 
no so much.  Not to mention some discussion about how, when& where to fish when 
cruising, etc.  If timing works, I'd bring Astralis to the show!Bruce 
Whitmore1994 C 37/40+"Astralis"Sent from Samsung tablet.
 Original message From: Steve Thomas via CnC-List 
 Date: 11/5/19  6:08 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Steve Thomas  Subject: Re: Stu  
I am usually in Florida in February, so I am interested, even if I have to 
drive to the "other" side. (From the Space Coast.)Steve ThomasC 
Island, Fl Edd Schillay via CnC-List  wrote: 
Listers,There appears to be some interest in a winter rendezvous in sunny 
Florida — here are a few thoughts:1. As you know, Florida has two coasts, east 
and west, with the Enterprise and Water Phantom on the west coast (35 miles 
apart) and some others on the east coast. I think the idea of having an actual 
boat rendezvous in a place that is reachable for people to sail to is pretty 
slim. I also know of three other C in the gulf coast and Tampa Bay areas.  
2. Because we all boat here year-round (suck it, northerners!) marina space for 
more than a handful of boats seems to be a stretch. Then again, see #1 above. 
3. That being said, I could organize a C Owners’ Rendezvous in Sarasota (even 
at my club in Venice), Tampa, Miami, Fort Lauderdale, or other such place that 
could be an easy drive or flight.I welcome everyone’s (even David Risch’s) 
thoughts and then I’ll put out a survey. Should we have a owners’ rendezvous, 
what kinds of things would you like the group to do (You know, besides eat and 
drink) — seminar, guest speaker, etc.?  If we were to do something in the 
Venice - Sarasota - Tampa - Clearwater area, I’m sure we could get the 
Enterprise and Water Phantom, and perhaps one or two more, to a location. I am 
confident that I can organize hotel (or hotel options) and a place for us to 
meet as I do marketing and event planning for a living.Warning though -- I 
understand in February it can be a little chilly here, with highs in the mid 
70s. Br. (Insert evil laugh here.)  Chime in, folks. Please. All the 
best,EddEdd M. SchillayCaptain of the Starship EnterpriseC 37+ | Sail No: 
NCC-1701-BVenice Yacht Club | Venice, FLStarship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
 
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Re: Stus-List Another Fuel Mystery

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Agreed as to probable coil, especially if it cut out immediately with no 
sputter whatsoever.  Fuel issues on A-4s will almost always cause a slower die 
with a cough or two.  For me, the coil never failed once I replaced the points 
and condenser with electronic ignition.  The electronic ignition from Moyer 
Marine is only about 2x what you would pay for a full set of points, condenser, 
cap and rotor.  Well worth the effort, and I never had to replace my cap and 
roter for 8 years after putting in the electronics.Just my $.02 worth,Bruce 
Sent from Samsung tablet.
 Original message From: Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
 Date: 10/30/19  7:29 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Randy Stafford  Subject: 
Re: Stus-List Another Fuel Mystery Ah, thanks Dennis!Cheers,RandyOn Oct 30, 
2019, at 5:15 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  wrote:Internal 
short in the ignition coil.  Not uncommon issue with A4's when you run them a 
while.  Coil gets extremely hot and shorts out.  Cools a bit and it restarts.If 
you ever run it long again (can't imagine that happening in Chatfield) 
CAREFULLY put your hand on the coil.  If it's too hot to touch, that could be 
the problem.Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LAOn Wed, Oct 30, 2019 at 5:02 
PM Randy Stafford via CnC-List  wrote:Inspired by Tom’s 
post.

I have an A4.  On Friday afternoon I filled the fuel tank.  I motor so little 
on my lake - generally just in and out of the marina - that I can go a whole 
season one one tank.  Case in point, she took 12 gallons Friday in a 20-gallon 
tank, and was in the water five months used multiple times weekly.  I added 
lead substitute and stabilizer as usual.

When hauling out Saturday morning, I had to keep station near the launch ramp 
for an hour waiting my turn.  In the middle of that, my A4 just quit.  It’s 
never done that before, except a few times two years ago when I had a frozen 
petcock restricting fuel flow.

After a bit of cranking and choking she fired back up again, and ran smoothly 
for the rest of the station-keeping, haul-out, and winterizing on the hard.  I 
wrote it off to a temporary fuel flow issue, but I have no idea why it might 
have happened.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C 30 MK I #7
Ken Caryl, CO
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Re: Stus-List Mount for tablet at helm

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Agreed, they make a number of options depending on how much movement you want.  
Quality is really pretty good. Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
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Re: Stus-List Transmission replacement, Kanzaki KBW 10

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Actually,  there is a technical service bulletin I can find and reference that 
states Yanmar only recommends that transmissions be left in neutral and if 
people want to stop prop spin the should implement some form of brake.  Yanmar 
says this is for all applications, which I find odd.  Al indicated it should 
make no difference in this transmission which gear it is left in.Sent from 
Samsung tablet.
 Original message From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 Date: 10/23/19  9:23 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: C List 
 Cc: Josh Muckley  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Transmission replacement, Kanzaki KBW 10 This is a recurring 
question, I'm sorry, but I thought that the engine wasn't supposed to be left 
in neutral to free spin the prop?  I put mine in reverse momentarily to feather 
the Max-prop then in neutral - The shaft stays stopped.  Do you think this 
could have caused the demise of your tranny?Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 
37+Solomons, MD On Wed, Oct 23, 2019, 9:09 PM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
 wrote:Hello all,If any of you have the Kanzaki KBW 10 
(or any other Kanzaki transmission for that matter), I wanted to let you know 
what we went through, and what we found was a really good solution.Since we 
bought our 1994 C 37/40+ about 3 years ago, we've always noticed that sailing 
with the transmission in neutral resulted in pretty noticeable noise and 
vibration.  It would spin slower and result in less noise in forward as well.  
Believing that the prop shaft was reasonably in line and without issues, we 
presumed it was simply a characteristic of the boat.  A few weeks ago, we were 
out sailing and when I revved the engine, it sped up dramatically, then 
engaged, obviously indicating the transmission was slipping.  What a bummer!I 
searched all around the internet, finding very little about this transmission.  
I priced the fiber and steel plates and thrust washers through Yanmar, 
resulting in a very disappointing number of somewhat more than $800 if I am 
remembering correctly.  My local Yanmar dealer even indicated they would send 
out the transmission to Ft. Lauderdale, say they did not overhaul them.  Beyond 
that I heard indications that parts were becoming increasingly difficult to 
find, and others recommending replacement with a different transmission 
entirely.  You can imagine my sense of doom.Finally, I came across an old 
posting going back to 2015 or so, mentioning Al Holzer at Schooner Bay Marina 
in Bayfield, WI.  Being from the Midwest, I was cautiously optimistic, having 
found most folks in that part of the world to be hard working, honest types.  
Al  priced out the parts, and he must have better sources, because 
they were much more reasonable, though he advise me that on my 
particular transmission, the bearings commonly spin and damage the 
case.  Opting to go with a properly rebuilt transmission, Al took only a couple 
days to overhaul one in his shop and sent out a fully rebuilt unit for $1,500, 
offering to pay for the return shipping of the old unit.  Despite having to 
fight with some frozen (and subsequently broken) bolts on my old unit, the new 
transmission fit in perfectly.  The flanges aligned with something like .002 
variance on my feeler gauge, and maybe not even that much.  We took the boat 
out sailing, and when I left it in neutral and went down below, I heard virtual 
silence from the drive train.  Upon removing the rear engine cover, I only 
heard a quiet whooshing sound, much like you would expect from a small 12 volt 
fan on low speed.  To say I am happy with Al's services would be an 
understatement.More can be found about Al and Schooner Bay Marina here:  
https://schoonerbaymarinallc.com/site/Hopefully you will not have transmission 
issues like I did, but if you do, I recommend contacting Al!Hoping you find 
this helpful, Bruce Whitmore1994 C 37/40+"Astralis"Madeira Beach, FL(847) 
404-5092 
(mobile)bwhitmore@sbcglobal.net___

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Re: Stus-List Engine cut out in rough seas

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

I just bought vacuum gauges through Amazon, they are liquid-filled (to reduce 
shake from vibration) and are 0- 30 hg.  Watch when you're buying them though, 
as many are vacuum and pressure gauges combined, and some are pressure only, 
and they all show up with you are looking for vacuum gauges.  An issue with the 
search function...At any rate, they were about $10 each, and I intend to put 
one immediately on the output side of the Racor and one on the output side of 
the primary (engine mounted) filter.  I second the use of biobar!  I also used 
Starbrite's tank cleaner, and have to say that somehow, it worked.  I visually 
inspected our tank a month or two ago after owning the boat for going on 3 
years.  There was a little black gunk in the tank, but it is stuck to the 
bottom and has to be scraped to come loose.  When I first got the boat and had 
to move it 120 miles to get it home, it had been sitting at the dock for a long 
time.  I got a small 12 volt pump and ran a hose from the output of the racor 
and back to the tank and let it run for 24+ hours to polish the fuel.  While I 
didn't clog the filter, I certainly had about 1/2" of black sooty looking stuff 
in the racor bowl.  Now, I never see anything even after motoring through some 
pretty rough stuff.  And yes, air could be the issue as well.Finally, I highly 
recommend the visual inspection of the tank, even if it is only through the 
hole for the sending unit.  Doing that gave me a LOT more comfort regarding the 
condition of the tank and fuel.Hope this helps,Bruce Sent from Samsung tablet.
null___

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Re: Stus-List Raymarine to octopus drive upgrade

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

With our hydraulic ram and the ACU 100, the ram could, under severe weather, 
draw more power than recommended for the ACU 100, but in emailing back & forth 
with Fred Street, it came down to the idea that rarely, if ever would most 
people come across such circumstances, especially if they are coastal cruisers. 
 Sent from Samsung tablet.
 Original message From: Dave S via CnC-List 
 Date: 10/4/19  8:27 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: David Risch 
 Cc: Dave S , cnc-list@cnc-list.com, 
Tom Buscaglia  Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine to octopus 
drive upgrade An option for sure.  Btw the octopus RS drive does seem to be 
within the 7A rated output of the acu-100.  The RS and the few hydraulic drives 
I’ve looked at also have a clutch connection, not supported by the acu100 or 
150 (which relies on the lever on the wheel drive). The RS however manually 
overrides the clutch in standby mode by joggling  the wheel.   Clearly, more 
research required... DaveSent from my iPhoneOn Oct 4, 2019, at 7:59 AM, David 
Risch  wrote:





Go hydraulic ram?  It seems the brain will handle those loads... 


From: syerd...@gmail.com 
Sent: Friday, October 4, 2019 7:52:45 AM
To: David Risch 
Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com ; Tom Buscaglia 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine to octopus drive upgrade
 

Answering my own question here - for the record.   It would appear that the 
acu-100 is limited in the current it can deliver to a drive, and is therefore 
only recommended for the smallest types.  I expect though, that this could be 
overcome by using the
 acu to operate relays of  adequate ampacity.
See below.


http://forum.raymarine.com/printthread.php?tid=3585


Dave.

Sent from my iPad

On Oct 3, 2019, at 9:17 AM, David Risch  wrote:





Without a rudder indicator and compass and their inputs your flying blind

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Tom Buscaglia via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, October 3, 2019 1:42:36 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Tom Buscaglia 
Subject: Stus-List Raymarine to octopus drive upgrade
 

I am planning on doing the same, though I am planning on going with the 
Raymarine drive.  As I understand it the AC 100 is not compatible with the 
drive and I’ll have to go with the AC 100.  Raymarine offered a modest discount 
with the trade in.  As I
 remebmber it was $400 plus the old AC100.


No idea about the Octopus drive.


Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon WA

P 206.463.9200
C 305.409.3660





On Oct 2, 2019, at 9:44 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:



Message: 2
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2019 21:56:20 -0400
From: Dave S 
To: C Stus List 
Subject: Stus-List Raymarine to octopus drive upgrade
Message-ID: <92a7e462-73df-4a4d-bb7d-a32dadf48...@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Looking to upgrade my Raymarine EV100/p70/acu100/ wheel drive to a below-deck 
linear actuator.    Octopus has an electric linear drive that appears to be a 
good choice for the tight confines of a 33-2

http://octopusdrives.com/products/type-rs-sailboat-drives/

Looks like I?d need the drive and a tiller arm. 

Any suggestions as to a source for the tiller arm?

Wondering if the acu-100 is compatible with the octopus type RS?

Has anyone done this conversion?   Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Dave 
Windstar 33-2











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Re: Stus-List 37+ lights and head

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

As to the faucet with shower head attachment, take a look at RV versions.  
There are plenty available out there.  A friend of mind had a broken connection 
at the shower head hose attachment to the back of the faucett, and bought a RV 
replacement for about $25.  Turns out it was made by the same manufacturer as 
the one that was in his Tartan.Food for thought,Bruce Sent from Samsung tablet.
null___

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Re: Stus-List Engine compartment bilge pump and blower

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Interestingly,  I had a bilge pump issue and thought it was the pump and then 
the switch and finally found the wires had corroded and  broken at a set of 
butt connectors hidden as the wires exited the bilge to run up to the switch 
panel.Food for thought, Bruce Whitmore 1994 C 37/40+ AstralisSent from my 
Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: Jim Watts via CnC-List 
 Date: 9/27/19  6:39 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 1 CnC List 
 Cc: Jim Watts  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Engine compartment bilge pump and blower I would start at the switch. 
See if it actually closes the circuit and if there is any power getting to it 
(one multimeter lead to power input on switch, one lead to ground). Then you'll 
know which way to work. Jim WattsParadigm ShiftC 35 Mk IIIVictoria, BCOn Fri, 
27 Sep 2019 at 15:21, Patrick Gateley via CnC-List  
wrote:Noticed the other day that my engine compartment bilge pump and blower 
have stopped working. I suspect a fuse but don't really know where to look.  
The bilge pump and blower switches are both port of the stairs and within a 
couple inches of one another. Anyone know where to start troubleshooting? I've 
got a decent multimeter and some electrical know how Thanks,Patrick Gateley1988 
C 44___

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Re: Stus-List Folding & Feathering Prop Recommendations

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Thankfully, I have not gotten tangled in a crab pot line as of yet.  I was just 
thinking that if the blades are folded, there would be a greater probability of 
the line sliding off the prop shaft rather than getting caught around a blade 
like "might" happen with a J Prop.  That said, it would then probably get 
caught around the rudder, but it's a lot more robust.  Maybe I'm just 
overworrying things.BruceSent from Samsung tablet.
 Original message From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
 Date: 9/25/19  3:19 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: cenel...@aol.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Folding & 
Feathering Prop Recommendations 

I sail in an area with lots of crab pots when in season--which appears to be 
most of the year--and I have a Gori 2 blade folder which has worked well for 
me. It was purchased for racing.

 

I have never tangled with a pot that got wrapped in or around my prop. OTOH, I 
don't see where a folder would do any better than a fixed blade in that 
situation. 

 

I am probably missing something--could you enlighten me and the list?

 

Charlie Nelson 

1995 C 36 36XL/kcb 

Water Phantom 

 

 

 

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Bruce Whitmore 
Sent: Wed, Sep 25, 2019 1:15 pm
Subject: Stus-List Folding & Feathering Prop Recommendations



Hello all,



I know this has been discussed a lot on the board in the past, but given the 
recent discussions of over-propping on the part of flex-o-fold, I'd like to 
re-ask the question.  The reason is that a folding prop is definitely in my 
future, as we have a fixed 3 blade prop on the boat now.  We also sail in an 
area where crab pots are extremely common from October through April.  For that 
reason alone I am leaning toward a folding prop.  I also saw the rather well 
put together article in which a test of folding and feather props was performed 
- the one touted on flex-o-fold's website.  




By the way, in exchanging emails with flex-o-fold, they are recommending a 3 
blade version, so if vibration is an issue with your two blade prop, that may 
not apply to me.




With all these considerations in mind, when it comes to a folding/feathering 
prop, what do you have, and why do you like it?




Looking forward to your insights,




Bruce Whitmore

1994 C/40+

"Astralis"


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Re: Stus-List Solar panels - now charger/inverters

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Joe,  just out of curiosity, is the big inverter pure sine wave, or both or 
neither?Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" 
 Date: 9/24/19  7:51 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: "Della Barba, Joe"  Subject: 
Re: Stus-List Solar panels - now charger/inverters 

The big charger-inverters are complicated beasts. I sold and installed a lot of 
them back in the day.
I have a ProNautic 15 amp charger, a separate 300 watt inverter, and a separate 
1200 watt inverter. Either one can drive the cabin outlets depending on a 
switch.
 The 300 watt unit is silent and draws very little in standby. It gets used 
most of the time, but if I need a big tool or the hairdryer we fire up the 1200 
watt inverter. It has a fan you can hear, so we don’t use it when we don’t need 
to.
All 3 together are less than a big inverter/charger.


Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C 35 MK I


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of sv Rebecca Leah via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, September 24, 2019 7:14 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: sv Rebecca Leah 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Solar panels - now charger/inverters


 

I have to agree with you Dennis. I have a 2.5k inverter/charger I would love to 
get rid of. It's big and I don't like the way it's wired into my boat. I had a 
fault while out cruising earlier
 this month, that rendered the whole unit us less. Except for ballast. Luckily 
I was able to reset the fault. 


 


 


 


Doug Mountjoy 

Sv Rebecca Leah 


C LF39


Port Orchard YC wa.



 



 Original message 


From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 



Date: 9/24/19 12:40 (GMT-08:00) 



To: CnClist 



Cc: "Dennis C." 



Subject: Re: Stus-List Solar panels - now charger/inverters



 




Chuck,


 


Just a philosophical comment on charger/inverters.  I personally don't like 
them.  Others may disagree.


 


If either side dies, you're screwed.  I prefer to install a separate charger 
and a separate inverter.


 


Dennis C.


Touche' 35-1 #83


Mandeville, LA

 


 




Any suggestions for charger/inverters would be appreciated.
Chuck Gilchrest
 






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Re: Stus-List The Low drag Prop saga is over!

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

In each of the cases noted about Flex o Fold, are we talking about the 3 blade 
or two blade models?  The recommend a 3 blade for my 37/40 with a Yanmar 
3JH2E.Looking forward to your thoughts,Bruce Whitmore Sent from Samsung tablet.
null___

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Re: Stus-List Air Conditioning Installation Questions -- Raw Water Supply

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Ours is under the stairs as well,  with vents forward to the galley area and 
aft to the stern berth.  It works well, but feels a little undersized.  We use 
the stern berth all the time, and only occasionally have guests in the V.Sent 
from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 Date: 9/19/19  9:45 AM  (GMT-06:00) To: C List 
 Cc: Josh Muckley  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Air Conditioning Installation Questions -- Raw Water Supply 2 
installation locations that you may want to consider are under the V-berth and 
under the stairs.  Ours is under the stairs.  Blue Pearl had one under the 
V-berth.Since I have a Vacu-flush head from the PO it left a thru-hull for the 
flush water unused.  That might be and option.  A lot of owners have mixed 
feelings about the V-berth sink.  You might consider that as an option too.I 
find that our 16,000BTU unit is undersized.  Go as big as possible and look for 
variable speed compressor and blower.  Air distribution is a challenge.  
Ducting just doesn't fit.I look forward to hearing how your solution works 
cause I need to upgrade.Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+Solomons, MD On 
Thu, Sep 19, 2019, 9:58 AM Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
wrote:Listers,Yesterday, I met with an AC installer on the Enterprise to cool 
off the main and aft cabin, as well as fight off mold and mildew (as I 
understand it, the expectation of growth of mold and mildew in this area is far 
more reliable than, say, David Risch actually attending a C Rendezvous). The 
plan is to sacrifice some of the aft-cabin hanging locker. Until I haul the 
boat again, which I don’t plan to do for another four years or so, I don’t have 
a dedicated through-hull. I’ve heard it’s not a good idea to tee off of the 
engine intake, but there is the galley sink drain nearby. Any issues with 
tee-ing off of that one? Obviously, I’d need to refrain from dumping chemicals 
into the sink while the AC is running so as those chemicals don’t go through 
the AC. Anyone know of any issues with that plan?Also, I’m a little perplexed 
as to why tee-ing off the engine intake is so bad. The AC is 110V AC-powered, 
so it’s not like I’m going to have the engine running and the AC going at the 
same time? Or can I with my 2000-Watt inverter and high-capacity alternator? 
All the best,EddEdd M. SchillayCaptain of the Starship EnterpriseC 37+ | Sail 
No: NCC-1701-BVenice Yacht Club | Venice, FLStarship Enterprise's Captain's Log 

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Re: Stus-List Air Conditioning Installation Questions -- Raw Water Supply

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Hi Edd, I've been off this list for a while, and couldn't get back on, but now 
I seem to be getting the posts regularly  I am happy to take some more photos 
and send them to you.  Our raw water pulls from a separate dedicated seacock in 
the aft of the engine compartment.  You could more easily tie to the engine raw 
water intake but I don't know if that would be advisable if the engine and A/C 
were run simultaneously.  As for shore power. We only have one 30 amp 
connection, but can blow the circuit breaker rarely when we get on the boat and 
simultaneously start up the A/C, hot water heater, battery charger and plug in 
something in to the 110 v. system.Hope this helps, Bruce Whitmore Sent from my 
Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
-- I'm-- Original message From: "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" 
 Date: 9/19/19  10:00 AM  (GMT-06:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: "Della Barba, Joe"  Subject: 
Re: Stus-List Air Conditioning Installation Questions -- Raw Water Supply 

You will want a separate shore power cord for the AC if it draws 25 amps, don’t 
try and use the existing shore power.

Joe
Coquina
 


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Edd Schillay via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, September 19, 2019 10:54 AM
To: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
Cc: Edd Schillay 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Air Conditioning Installation Questions -- 
Raw Water Supply


 
Josh,

 


The quote I’m getting is for a 16,500BTU unit, which I’m told will draw close 
to 25 amp when fully working. The installer claims, once installed, the main 
cabin will be comfortable and the aft cabin will be VERY cold. I didn’t consider
 under the v-berth as there’s a lot of storage that I use down there and, as 
far as I can tell, venting the other cabins will be a challenge. 


 


As for under the steps, I think getting AC-power there would be a challenge and 
I have concerns, though probably unwarranted, about hoses and wiring 
interfering with engine access. I’d be interested in seeing a diagram as to how 
you ran
 your lines. 


 


The head uses a sea-water intake, so I suppose I could tee off of there, but 
that’s quite a long run, is it not? 


 





All the best,


 


Edd


 


 


Edd M. Schillay


Captain of the Starship Enterprise


C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B


Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL


 



Starship Enterprise's
 Captain's Log


 








    


 









 

On Sep 19, 2019, at 10:45 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
wrote:

 


2 installation locations that you may want to consider are under the V-berth 
and under the stairs.  Ours is under the stairs.  Blue Pearl had one under the 
V-berth.

 


Since I have a Vacu-flush head from the PO it left a thru-hull for the flush 
water unused.  That might be and option.  A lot of owners have mixed feelings 
about the V-berth sink.  You might consider that as an option too.


 


I find that our 16,000BTU unit is undersized.  Go as big as possible and look 
for variable speed compressor and blower.  Air distribution is a challenge.  
Ducting just doesn't fit.


 


I look forward to hearing how your solution works cause I need to upgrade.


 


Josh Muckley 


S/V Sea Hawk 


1989 C 37+


Solomons, MD 


 


 


 


On Thu, Sep 19, 2019, 9:58 AM Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
wrote:



Listers,

 


Yesterday, I met with an AC installer on the Enterprise to cool off the main 
and aft cabin, as well as fight off mold and mildew (as I understand it, the 
expectation of growth of mold and mildew in this area is far more reliable 
than, say,
 David Risch actually attending a C Rendezvous). 


 


The plan is to sacrifice some of the aft-cabin hanging locker. 


 


Until I haul the boat again, which I don’t plan to do for another four years or 
so, I don’t have a dedicated through-hull. I’ve heard it’s not a good idea to 
tee off of the engine intake, but there is the galley sink drain nearby. Any 
issues
 with tee-ing off of that one? Obviously, I’d need to refrain from dumping 
chemicals into the sink while the AC is running so as those chemicals don’t go 
through the AC. Anyone know of any issues with that plan?


 


Also, I’m a little perplexed as to why tee-ing off the engine intake is so bad. 
The AC is 110V AC-powered, so it’s not like I’m going to have the engine 
running and the AC going at the same time? Or can I with my 2000-Watt inverter 
and
 high-capacity alternator? 





All the best,


 


Edd


 


 


Edd M. Schillay


Captain of the Starship Enterprise


C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B


Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL


 



Starship Enterprise's
 Captain's Log


 












 








 


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Thanks 

Re: Stus-List 1985 Color Question

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

For some easy touch up I found that the Behr paint color called White Batten is 
a good match for "smoke gray" which is the gel coat color most often used when 
making C, and if it is a match for you, would serve a a good color chip for 
ultimately getting your paint mixed.Hoping this help,Bruce Whitmore1994 
37/40+Astralis Madiera Beach,  FLSent from Samsung tablet.

 Original message 
From: Luke Wolbrink via CnC-List  
Date: 9/17/2019  4:46 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Luke Wolbrink  
Subject: Stus-List 1985 Color Question 

Hello group,I'm looking to make some repairs to the deck this winter and fill 
in some stress cracks etc. The boat has the original gel-coat still. Has anyone 
had any luck with a topside paint that matches the gel-coat on a circa 1985 
boat? It's an off white that gets darker when wet and I hate to have to paint 
the whole thing just because I filled in some cracks in the 
cabintop.Thanks,Luke1985 35-3' "Zella"
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Re: Stus-List Water Tank Woes [again] - Welding Question

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

I 100% with Paul's comments below.  By the way, it will likely take more 
plastic welding rods than you think.  In a pinch I cut up some Tupperware type 
lids that were labeled LDPE and they sufficed when I ran short.  That said, not 
all LDPE is the same, and HDPE will definitely NOT work for welding LDPE.Hoping 
you find this helpful, Bruce Sent from Samsung tablet.

 Original message 
From: Dreuge via CnC-List  
Date: 9/7/2019  5:32 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Dreuge  
Subject: Stus-List Water Tank Woes [again] - Welding Question 

Hi Pete,Plastic welding is the way to go.  I tried various ways to repair 
tanks, but my welded repairs (I fixed 3 tanks now by welding) have had no 
problems.  Plastic welding is rather easy to do.  The key is getting good 
plastic welding rods.   I normally use a hot air welder, but if you are very 
careful, you can use make due with a propane torch.  Though I highly recommend 
borrowing or buying a welder.  Harbor Freight sells a reasonable welder for 
about $60, and since they always have 20-25% off coupons, it would cost about 
$45.Small leaks are easy to fix.  If you have a more serious repair, like a 
long crack due to poor structural support, then repair and split it with some 
316 stainless mesh. I purchased a package of 1/8" LDPE welding rods from 
Grainger. As I recall, it was 50 rods for $15.   I also purchased 316 mesh from 
Grainger.I have details on my blog. Below is the link.  Skip down to the 
section on plastic 
welding.http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/WaterTankRepair-Paul 
E.1981 C Landfall 38 S/V Johanna RoseFort Walton Beach, 
FLhttp://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

On Sep 7, 2019, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:Message: 
2Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2019 22:31:13 +From: kelly petew To: 
"cnc-list@cnc-list.com" Subject: Stus-List Water Tank 
Woes [again] - Welding QuestionMessage-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"My water tank is leaking 
again. I want to attempt a weld to repair it.It is a Kracor polypropylene tank, 
but the labeling details have faded over time, and no longer legible.  I don't 
know what kind of polypropylene was used to construct the tank.So, the question 
is, do I use hi-density OR lo-density polypropylene?  Or, does it 
matter?Thanks!Pete W.Siren SongC 30-2Deltaville, Va.___

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Re: Stus-List Never gets old

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Edd, I'm looking forward to seeing her in person!Bruce Sent from my Verizon, 
Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
 Date: 6/26/19  3:38 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Edd Schillay  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Never gets old Marek,As someone who named his boat after a science 
fiction spaceship, paid sailmakers extra to put “NCC-1701-B” on his sails, 
frequently corrects other boaters when they think James T. Kirk commanded the 
Enterprise-B, installed a light-up cylindrical multi-colored Bluetooth speaker 
in the main cabin and named it the Warp Core, and who used to award Starfleet 
officer ranks to his racing crew, i object to being called a “big kid”. 
All the best,EddEdd M. SchillayCaptain of the Starship EnterpriseC 37+ | Sail 
No: NCC-1701-BCity Island Yacht Club | City Island, NY Venice Yacht Club | 
Venice, FLStarship Enterprise's Captain's Log

On Jun 26, 2019, at 2:48 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
 wrote:Aren’t we all big kids? Marek From: CnC-List On 
Behalf Of Dennis C. via CnC-ListSent: 26 June, 2019 13:20To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. Subject: Stus-List 
Never gets old I'm waxing Touche' and the Navy Blue Angels are practicing 
overhead.  Touche's Pensacola slip is in Bayou Chico just a few miles north of 
their home base, Pensacola Naval Air Station. I grew up across Bayou Grande 
from the base.  Watched them as a kid.  Never gets old.  Never. We'll be 
anchored in Santa Rosa Sound July 13 when they do their Pensacola Beach show. 
Awesome event. Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, 
LA___Thanks everyone for supporting 
this list with your contributions.  Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  
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Re: Stus-List Advice needed on Wheel nut and high water alarm

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Why not try finding a large stainless steel lock washer?  If nothing else, 
order one through McMaster Carr.Sent from Samsung tablet.
null___

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Re: Stus-List Spreader boots.

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Ok, being the frugal *ahem* I am, I can think of  a number of solutions 
including cutting your own leather, cutting thick but flexible highly UV 
resistant plastic or even cutting and taping the highly abrasion resistant 
white ribbed hose like West Marine sells for through hulls and waste hose.  And 
of course the fire hose is yet another example.Perhaps I'm showing my dislike 
of marine markup...Bruce Whitmore 1994 C 37/40+ "Astralis"Sent from my 
Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
 Date: 6/11/19  1:48 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Marek Dziedzic  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Spreader boots. 


Have you tried using rigging tape? It works quite well.
 
Marek
1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa, ON


 

From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List

Sent: Tuesday, June 11, 2019 12:50
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Spreader boots.


 



It seems like I got some from a small Canadian site on EBay once, they were 
Clam-Style, White Plastisol.  You could trim them to fit.
Kind of like Taylor Made style.
 

Bill Coleman
Erie, PA

 


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Daniel Cormier via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 11, 2019 12:20 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Daniel Cormier
Subject: Re: Stus-List Spreader boots.


 
Has anyone tried using fire hose or Something similar? I have triple spreaders 
and some of mine have three holes and are needing replacement.

 


Dan Cormier


Breakaweigh


C


Halifax, NS

Sent from my iPhone



On Jun 10, 2019, at 4:53 PM, Thomas Perison via CnC-List 
 wrote:



I bought from West Marine last year for my 29MK II- holding up nicely.

Cheers 

Tom


 




On Jun 10, 2019, at 2:59 PM, David Risch via CnC-List  
wrote:



West marine has them.  But the prettier and more durable elk-hide boots are 
available from Edson
 
David F. Risch
1981 40-2
Gulf Stream Associates
(401) 419-4650
 
From: CnC-List 
On Behalf Of John McLaughlin via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 10, 2019 2:05 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: johnr...@aol.com
Subject: Stus-List Spreader boots.
 
I need to get spreader boots for a C 29-2.
Not sure what size or type I should get or from whom to purchase. 
John McLaughlin 
Newburgh, NY
John McLaughlin




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Re: Stus-List Galvanic Isolators

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

By the way, I checked today and there is no galvanic isolator on Astralis.  
Which one did you folks choose to install? Thanks for your insights, Bruce Sent 
from Samsung tablet.___

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Re: Stus-List Oft overlooked source of head odor

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Ok, makes sense.Bruce Whitmore 
null___

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Re: Stus-List Oft overlooked source of head odor

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Agreed Marek,Perhaps I didn't understand how others were teed into their sink 
drain.  What I have usually seen is a tee in the drain which leads to the 
toilet bowl (for example going to between the seat and the bowl.  The head is 
flushed normally most of the time, but when you want it flushed with fresh 
water, close the sink seacock and fill the sink with fresh water.  The gravity 
would cause the fresh water to run from the sink and drain into the toilet bowl 
where it is then flushed through.  As for teeing the toilet intake into the 
sink drain, that would work but keep in mind the drain in the sink must be 
tightly closed, otherwise the toilet intake will draw in air,  not seawater.Am 
I making sense?Bruce Whitmore 1994 C 37/40+"Astralis"Sent from Samsung tablet.
 Original message From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
 Date: 5/26/19  9:46 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Marek Dziedzic  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Oft overlooked source of head odor 



If you tee the drain from the head sink to the head intake hose, you would be 
able to pour AF into the sink and _pump_ it through the head pump, and all the 
inner working of the head. It would winterise the head
 properly.
 
Marek
 
Sent from 
Mail for Windows 10
 


From: CnC-List  on behalf of John Irvin via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, May 26, 2019 9:44:03 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John Irvin
Subject: Re: Stus-List Oft overlooked source of head odor
 

I pour antifreeze down the hose.

Sent from my iPhone

On May 26, 2019, at 9:02 AM, bwhitmore via CnC-List  
wrote:




One thing I read from Peggy Hall the Head Mistress is that pouring antifreeze 
in to th head and pumping it out is insufficient to winterize the head because 
no water is drawn in through the intake hose.  This makes sense to me,  but i 
think it may depend
 on the design of the particular head.


Just a thought, 


Bruce Whitmore 







Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone




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Re: Stus-List Oft overlooked source of head odor

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

One thing I read from Peggy Hall the Head Mistress is that pouring antifreeze 
in to th head and pumping it out is insufficient to winterize the head because 
no water is drawn in through the intake hose.  This makes sense to me,  but i 
think it may depend on the design of the particular head.Just a thought, Bruce 
Whitmore Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
null___

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Stus-List Cored hull and transducer, 1994 C/40+

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Hello all,I bought a Garmin Echomap Plus 94SV and transducer that is on sale at 
West Marine.  This comes with a good transducer that will map out the bottom, 
act as a fish finder, etc.    On most boats, the transducer can be mounted in 
the bilge and will fire through the fiberglass sufficiently.  We, however, have 
a cored hull.If worse comes to worst, we get depth data via the existing 
transducer, but I'd like the added functionality.Does anyone know if there is a 
spot around the keel where the hull is not cored and it might work?Does anyone 
have a drawing that shows where the hull is, and is not cored?Thanks!Bruce 
WhitmoreSent from Samsung tablet.___

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Re: Stus-List Purging air from Attwood EHM6-SM Water Heater

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Ken, that makes total sense into me.  Now if I can find the coolant hoses! I'm 
really surprised I can't find good installation instructions!Sent from my 
Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: Ken Heaton via CnC-List 
 Date: 5/16/19  6:37 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list 
 Cc: Ken Heaton  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Purging air from Attwood EHM6-SM Water Heater I think you have the 
following ports visible in your photo:H = Hot Potable Water out of Heater to 
your hot water taps.C = Cold Potable Water into heater from the potable water 
pump.D = Drain for emptying the Heater of Potable Water for winterizing.P1 = 
Pressure Release Valve for an over-pressure condition caused by the electric 
element sticking on and boiling the contents of the Heater.If you also have in 
and out for Coolant so the engine can heat the water they must be out of sight 
on the rear?What Josh said about using the Pressure Relief Valve will bleed air 
our of the Potable Water section.  It won't bleed the coolant loop from the 
engine.Ken H.On Thu, 16 May 2019 at 18:29, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
 wrote:Hello all,I think I probably have some air 
trapped in my hot water heater.  I have found some pretty cryptic instructions 
for the heater, but:  a). They do not include a good drawing or explanation of 
how the hoses, either fresh water or coolant should be connected (yes I have 
looked for better online instructions to no avail)b). They say "Bleed air from 
the entire coolant system for proper operation of both engine and water 
heater", but don't give instructions as to the best way to do it.c). They do 
not include a listing of the what the stamped letters next to the outlets mean. 
 (the upper left in the photo is "H", bottom left is "D", upper right is "P1" 
and lower right is "C"Here's a photo of the water heater:  Attwood EHM6-SM 
Water Heater.jThe tube in the upper left feeds the boat with hot water.  I 
think the tube on the bottom with the valve on it comes from the engine hot 
water feed.  I turned off the valve, and the hot water continued to run, so it 
is definitely not the fresh water supply line to the heater.  And, having a 
valve on the hot coolant input line would make sense.  Therefore, am I correct 
in thinking the pipe on the lower right would be the return coolant line to the 
engine?Now for conundrum #2.Here's a photo of the hoses leading out of the 
engine.  Hot water heater hoses at engine.jpg.  Those hoses connect to the grey 
solid pipes shown in the previous picture, somewhere under the floorboards 
where I can't see which is which.  They were disconnected, but filled with 
coolant when I got the boat, so I was just guessing when I connected the hoses 
to the engine.   In looking at the Yanmar manual, it appears the red hose 
should be the suction side coming from the water heater, and the black hose 
would be the pressure (hot) water coming from the engine to the water heater.  
Am I correct?  Any way about it, since the water going down to the heater must 
flow down under the floorboards, up to the heater, then out of the heater and 
back down under the floorboards, the water heater would be a prime spot for air 
to get trapped.So, I am thinking I should ease off the connection coming off 
the lower right side of the heater and apply pressure to the appropriate hose 
coming off the engine, and see if I get any air out.  Then, I want to ensure I 
am connecting the correct hose to the right inlet/outlet point on the engine.  
Does this make sense?Thanks for your insights!Bruce Whitmore(847) 404-5092 
(mobile)bwhitmore@sbcglobal.net___

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