Stus-List Zinc in heat exchanger, Yanmar 3JH2e
Hello all, I think I know the answer to this question, but I just want to confirm. On a Yanmar 3JH2E, are there any sacrificial anodes in the heat exchanger or anywhere else to replace? I've checked the repair manual for the engine, but found nothing. Just wanting to be sure... Bruce Whitmore1994 C&C 37/40+, "Astralis"Madiera Beach, FL (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Zinc in heat exchanger, Yanmar 3JH2e
Thanks Josh and all, Very helpful. I can rest my anxious mind now... :^) Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List To: C&C List Cc: Josh Muckley Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2017 1:50 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Zinc in heat exchanger, Yanmar 3JH2e The heat exchangers are made of a copper-nickel alloy which is also commonly used for all types of saltwater interfaces in the power generation and military industries. No anodes are required. Anodes are required in a raw water cooled engine because there is no way to prevent the saltwater from touching the cast iron engine blocks. Similarly in the military and industrial heat exchangers the shells are made of carbon steel and as a result anodes are attached at those locations. As for our freshwater cooled engines the cast iron is protected by the cocktail of chemical additives in the glycol coolant. The coolant also has lubricants to help protect the waterpump shaft seals. In the freshwater versions of our engines the block is exactly the same as the raw water counterparts. The anode ports are simply plugged with a screw in pipe plug. This provides an opportunity to install a block heater to keep condensation from accumulating during the off season. I had stuck rings one year and I've kept a block heater ever since with no recurrence of the stuck rings. Zerostart 310-0003 Engine Block Heater https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UNASYS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_iOPuzb6CAMJER Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk1989 C&C 37+Solomons, MD On Jun 27, 2017 8:52 AM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List" wrote: Hello all, I think I know the answer to this question, but I just want to confirm. On a Yanmar 3JH2E, are there any sacrificial anodes in the heat exchanger or anywhere else to replace? I've checked the repair manual for the engine, but found nothing. Just wanting to be sure... Bruce Whitmore1994 C&C 37/40+, "Astralis"Madiera Beach, FL (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net __ _ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/ stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Stuffing Box on 1986 C&C 33 mk2
Hi Brett, Forgive me if I am being too basic in my explanation, but I don't know your prior level of expertise. First, there are three parts of the stuffing box. See the picture here: Buck Algonquin 00PB75 Packing Boxes - Complete Assembly. | | | Buck Algonquin 00PB75 Packing Boxes - Complete Assembly 00PB75 Buck Algonquin Packing Boxes - Complete on sale now. Huge savings on Buck Algonquin hardware. | | | Note the smaller, thinner nut. This is a lock nut. If you haven't backed that off, the larger part, that looks kind of like a nut (though is deeper) won't move. This sounds like your problem. I had a '77 C&C 27 MKIII not far from you, and given that you are in fresh water, I would doubt the nuts would be corroded. So once you try that, the it is a question of whether you need new packing or not. If you can tighten it down and stop the leaking, you don't need to replace the packing (at least for now). Now to the speed of the drips. You absolutely do NOT (and I will stress again NOT) want to tighten it down so that it stops leaking completely. As another poster noted, you need drips of water coming through the packing when the engine is running to lubricate the shaft and keep it from getting so hot that you score it. So, you want to tighten it enough that it doesn't drip when your sitting in the water with the engine off, but dripping once every 15 - 30 seconds or so when the engine is running and in gear. As for the packing material, West Marine and other chandleries sell packing with PTFE (teflon), and some include a green kind of slimy "goo", or green packing material that supposedly you can use to have a dripless packing. While I like the basic material due to its increased lubrication factor (thus hopefully not heating up the shaft), I did not (and would not) rely upon that. Thus I would still keep it leaking a bit under way. As to the size of the packing, I simply don't remember. You can crawl down and measure the difference between the prop shaft and the outer nut, and start with a packing material that is 50 - 75% of the difference as a starting point, with the idea of returning the unopened material. When putting in the material, I heard a good hint. Wrap the packing 3 times around the shaft and use a razor blade to cut through the wraps. You're looking to create 3 rings that fit the shaft. You then put them into the stuffing box with the rings offset. If you can't get all 3 in, that's OK. As for getting the old packing material out, I'f found the combination of an dental pick and a large fishhook partially straightened out to be very helpful. Though, if you are in the water, you may just end up putting one new ring of material in the stuffing box and waiting until its out of the water to dig the rest out. Hoping this is helpful, Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: Brett Robertson via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Brett Robertson Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2017 10:23 PM Subject: Stus-List Stuffing Box on 1986 C&C 33 mk2 Hello and thanks for taking the time to read and respond. I’m a new owner of a 1986 C&C 33 mk2. My stuffing box is leaking/dripping. I’d say a drip every 3 seconds. I’m going to try and see if I can tighten it, but I briefly tried and it was very difficult…maybe due to corrosion. Plan is to try again after some PB Blaster or other compound to assist in loosening. I don’t know when the stuffing was replaced previously. Looking for some help in selecting the correct stuffing/packing size. I believe you select the diameter of the packing material according to the shaft size??? Many thanks for the help, any suggestions would be appreciated. Brett Robertson Oshkosh, WI ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Stus-List DQOTD - Cruising spinnaker - Luff v. Leach?
OK, seems like a dumb question. We spread out the cruising spinnaker on our lawn today, having not put it up before on our new (to us) C&C 37/40+/. It is in a spinnaker sock. The sheets were in the bag, but not attached to the sail. It is made by UK. Along one edge is a bright green strip. It seems like that is the luff, rather than the leach, but I can't tell for sure. There are no labels that I can see, nor an edge with a cable or reinforced luff seemingly build in. Both sides seem to be the same length. Do I have an asymmetrical spinnaker, and if I do, is the green the leach or the luff? New to spinnakers, so your help would be greatly appreciated, Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List DQOTD - Cruising spinnaker - Luff v. Leach?
y means keeping the pole perpendicular to the wind. Trimming the sheet means letting it out until the windward sail edge (pole side) begins to curl - too much curl? - sheet in. Every time you jibe you will sail dead down wind ease the guy so that the pole is roughly at a 45° angle. The sheet should be roughly matched. Standing infront of the mast facing forward the foredeck operator will reach up to the mast ring, pull the jaw release for the jaw in the ring. The pole is now supported by and free to pivot about on the top and bottom bridles. What was the inboard jaw is now pushed out towards what was the leeward side of the boat. The jaw is opened and what was the sheet is hooked in the jaw. Next what was the outboard end jaw is opened releasing what was the guy and that jaw is hooked to the mast ring. The foredeck operator shouts "MADE!" so that the helm can finish the maneuver by jibing the mainsail and the crew can trim the spinnaker. The old guy is now the sheet and the old sheet is now the guy. The "leach" and the "luff" have also swapped. Some setups include "twings" which are open cheak snatch blocks placed at the widest part of the toe rail on each side of the boat. This holds the guy down and helps prevent the pole from flying in addition to the down haul. Early in the jibe (about the same time that the helm is turning dead down wind) the guy is released from the twing, again windward side = guy. After the pole is "MADE!" the new guy will be inserted into its respective twing on the new windward side. Each sheet will probably need to be about twice the boat length. This is an end for end jibe and its easier to show than to explain and easier to explain than to master. Oh, and the green stripe usually would indicate the starboard side of the sail but that is just so that the front faces forward and numbers can be read. Often sail makers will put red stripes on the port side and a yellow stripe on the foot. This also help when packing the sail in a traditional bag. Since you have a sock it is less needed. Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk1989 C&C 37+Solomons, MD On Jul 1, 2017 8:33 PM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List" wrote: OK, seems like a dumb question. We spread out the cruising spinnaker on our lawn today, having not put it up before on our new (to us) C&C 37/40+/. It is in a spinnaker sock. The sheets were in the bag, but not attached to the sail. It is made by UK. Along one edge is a bright green strip. It seems like that is the luff, rather than the leach, but I can't tell for sure. There are no labels that I can see, nor an edge with a cable or reinforced luff seemingly build in. Both sides seem to be the same length. Do I have an asymmetrical spinnaker, and if I do, is the green the leach or the luff? New to spinnakers, so your help would be greatly appreciated, Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net __ _ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurra y All Contributions are greatly appreciated! __ _ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://urldefense.proofpoint. com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www. paypal.me_stumurray&d=DwICAg& c= clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN 0H8p7CSfnc_gI&r= 9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f 1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ&m=KivZG0zGqP_ LOKlX1VJZA0iA4zZEgdQx- 1vwBi9GBaw&s=aoYncwhP73eEfAA- jv6rEbNkRRO8oOikynzr8crFuAU&e= All Contributions are greatly appreciated! -- Alan Bergen 35 Mk III Thirsty Rose City YC Portland, OR ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Stus-List Negative wire corrosion issues
Hello, We took over ownership of a 1994 C&C 37/40+ about 4 months ago. At that time, we knew we had a battery issue. As it turns out, after we replaced the batteries, we found that one of the battery banks was still not showing enough voltage getting to the panel. I immediately suspected a bad ground, and when I went to tighten it, the ground cable made a crunching sound/feel when I pulled on it. I immediately replaced the ground cables, which fixed the problem. As I continue to address other electrical issues (lights and pumps that don't work, rotted speakers, etc.), I'm finding that in most cases, the negative wire at the far attachment to the appliance (speaker, pump, light, etc.), tends to be corroded. Usually just green on the inside, but still usable, but in some cases it is requiring me to splice in a piece of wire a few inches away. In one case where there is a light in the closet of the forward cabin, I will probably have to rewire with a new light due to the wires breaking through. Is this "normal" corrosion (the boat is in salt water), or is there a particular cause for only the ground wire to corrode? Why is it not happening on the power wire as well? Does this indicate other issues I should watch out for? I'm not seeing pink discoloration on seacocks, don't see issues on the engine, etc. Thanks in advance, Bruce Whitmore 1994 C&C 37/40+Madiera Beach, FL (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Stus-List Under-deck autopilot story...
Hello all, I saw the comment about wheel vs. under-deck autopilots, and have a rather funny story. It turns out our new boat neighbors had taken their 42 ft. Catalina out for a relatively long sail (a couple hundred miles). As they were coming back, the steering failed. They attached their emergency rudder, and as was mentioned by another poster, it was a pretty miserable way to steer the boat. The emergency rudder stock was short, and they fought with it for 12 hours or more. Coming into the harbor, they were exhausted. Later, the owner was talking with his son about the experience, and his son asked "Did you turn on the autopilot - why didn't it work?" Turns out, it never occurred to them that the autopilot was unaffected by the cable failure... :) It's still a source of ribbing and laughter to this day. I love the fact that our autopilot is driven under deck by a hydraulic ram. Kindest Regards, Bruce Whitmore 1994 C&C 37/40+Madiera Beach, FL (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Stus-List Plastic Welding Water Tank
Hello all, We have a 1994 C&C 37/40+. The starboard water tank is leaking through a crack in an upper corner of the tank. The P.O. tried to seal the crack with a combination of silicone sealer reinforced with a piece of fiberglass cloth. Obviously, that repair didn't hold. Thankfully, the tank was very easy to remove! I understand that welding plastic is pretty easy, and I've looked a video or two, most of which show a tool that blows hot air, though a cheap version at Harbor Freight looks more like a soldering kit, though I'm not sure its the correct tool for the type of plastic used in making the water tanks. So, a couple quick questions: 1). What type of plastic are the tanks made of?2). What is the correct tool for welding them? Any hints or tips of course would be greatly appreciated! Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Stus-List A/C Drip Pan Rusting, Clogged Drain, etc. - C&C 37/40+
Hello all, We have a 1994 C&C 37/40+ with an Adler/Barbour A/C unit. The drain pan is the issue. When we bought the boat, the surveyor noticed the rusty pan, and suggested cleaning out the rust. In addition, the drain for the pan for some reason is in the side of the unit rather than in the bottom. The hose then attaches, runs a couple inches and goes through a hole and down to the through-hull. Why the pan was not made out of Aluminum, Stainless or HDPE is beyond me! Instead, it is painted mild steel. Ugh... That said, the paint is flaking off, and is somewhat rubbery, and therefore clogging the drain. My questions are as follows: The unit seems relatively difficult to get out, and access to the far side of the pan is virtually impossible. Is there a cure for the rust & paint peeling that does not involve removing the unit? Also, have any of you revised the drain so that it drains down, rather than through the side of the pan? Have any of you replaced the pan, and how big a deal was it? Thanks for all your help, Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38
Agreed as to the warning on the wiring, and as of 1994, no, they did not wire
the boats with tinned wire. I am finding a LOT of the wire in my boat to be
blackend with corrosion. While it is still largely functional, in the back of
my mind I'm weighing the long-term need for properly rewiring the boat.
:(
Bruce Whitmore
1994 C&C 37/40+Madiera Beach, FL
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
From: "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List"
To: "syerd...@gmail.com"
Cc: "Della Barba, Joe" ; "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
Sent: Tuesday, August 1, 2017 8:48 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38
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{}#yiv2301047447 They finally discovered tinned wire? J Joe Coquina From:
syerd...@gmail.com [mailto:syerd...@gmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2017 8:47 AM
To: Della Barba, Joe
Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38 With the exception of
push and pulpit, IMO '85 was done quite well by the factory.
Sent from my iPad
On Aug 1, 2017, at 8:40 AM, Della Barba, Joe wrote:
Be warned – learned this the hard way – If 1981 C&C wiring is as good as 1973
wiring was, it is ALL about to turn into black dust. I started a one hour
project and ended up rewiring my whole boat! Speaking of wiring, Blue Seas
stuff is great and frequently on Fleabay for a huge discount. Do also go to
West Marine and explain you got “hired” to restore a boat and get yourself as
Port Supply account. Joe Coquina From: CnC-List
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Dave S via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2017 6:36 AM
To: C&c Stus List
Cc: Dave S
Subject: Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38 Inspect label and secure
all wiring.replace as required. Inspect and service (as required) all through
hulls. Inspect (and replace as required) all hoses. Inspect, clean and protect
all key electrical grounding points. Consider upgraded protection for exposed
engine controls and instruments. Consider upgraded ventilation for holding
tank. Ensure batteries are well secured Upgrade air movement within lockers etc
where possible. Inspect and improve any marginal bulkhead tabbing. When working
on critical deck hardware consider upgrading backing plates, etc, where
practical. convenient stowage for hatch drop boards, emergency tiller, ditch
bag/flares/horn. make/buy webbing jacklines Howzat? Dave 33-2
- Forwarded message --
From: john wright
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2017 18:35:48 -0400
Subject: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38 Hello everyone I am about to
begin a complete refit on what is the best boat for my purpose ( sailing
around Cape Code as we get ready to do the Caribbean 1500 in 2019), after
looking or sailing at least 100 boat over the past 4 years. The boat is in
better than average condition, I will post pictures later. I have the work
broken down into three categories, and would appreciate any recommendations and
reorganizing of the list. Thanks Level 1: Repairs and Installations
Replace old set of AGM batteries with new set Remove old engine, clean and
repaint engine room, rebuild engine bed as needed to fit the new Yanmar 3JH5e
Replace all hoses for new engine Move raw water sea strainer and Racor fuel
filter to easier location to monitor visually Gelcoat – fill all chips and
nicks with gelcoat Clean stains with FSR Repair teak grating at pedestal (epoxy
the connections to frame) Clean teak with teak cleaner Replace teak combing
with thicker mahogany boards Clean and Polish all gelcoat surfaces Hull bottom
– sand and repaint with anti-fouling ablative paint Re-install mast and tune
rigging Make line hanger in cockpit below deck winches functional once again
Add gasket to aft access panel under helm seat Repair/ refinish wood framework
to companionway Re-varnish companionway door Make better drainage in port
cockpit locker and revarnish partition wood Install the new Whale Gus
Stus-List Lessons learned from plastic welding water tank
Hello all, First, I want to thank everyone here for their help - it really gave me a jump start on fixing my water tank. Here's what I found: - The tank is definitely made of LDPE (low density polyethelene). HDPE does NOT stick to it, so don't even begin to think that all polyethelene is the same. You can weld LDPE to HDPE, but not HDPE to LDPE. - Welding is the preferred method for fixing by comparison to epoxies designed to fix polyethelene. - I used a hot air blower welder from Harbor Freight Tools - it cost about $50. In hindsight, I probably could have done a better job with one of their soldering iron type that heats a hot disk end. Getting smooth melting of the rod into the tank plastic is very important, and I kept having issues with the plastic from the rods bubbling. In the end, I took a torch, heated up an old putty knife, and using that to smooth the edges. I'm sure this is partly because I don't get along particularly well with welding and soldering. It's the one task I have to teach myself to do better. Ideally, I think I would have used the type of welder that feeds strips/rods through the tip of the welder, but that one was not immediately available. - You want to weld the plastic with strips, not rods. Strips are easier to work with. If you can't find LDPE strips online, keep looking around the house for #4 recycleable plastic. The only place I found it around our house was the snap-on tops to Tupperware type containers. If you are buying strips, buy more than you think you'll need. I bought 5' of strips, and I could easily have used 10 to lay on the thickness I wanted. - Practice welding HDPE, say with a cracked old paint bucket or something. HDPE is much easier to find around the house, as laundry detergent bottles, and just about every other piece of recyclable plastic (except clear bottles) is made from it. Once you learn how to weld with HDPE, the process with LDPE is the same, and it will go much more smoothly. - Clean the tank with MEK. I did it both before and after the grinding/sanding. - Using a dremel, grind out a groove (this is actually pretty important, so don't skip this step). Even if you go through the tank, don't worry, you can build it up again with the strips. - Find a YouTube video or two to watch the process. - Sand the area with 80 grit sandpaper. - Drill a small hole at the ends of the cracks to keep the cracks from progressing - At the suggestion of another poster, I layed in a layer of stainless mesh over the crack thinking that if it cracked once, it might do so again, so reinforcing the area would be a good idea. Time will tell. - Be sure to water test it before putting it back in the boat. Hoping this set of step-by-step instruction helps, Bruce Whitmore1994 C&C 37/40+ (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Stus-List Water tank access - replacement threaded cap?
Hello all, After fixing our cracked water tank, I put the caps back on the inspection ports, and filled up all the tanks, checking for leaks. One in particular leaks rather badly, and it turns out the lip on the cap is cracked, causing the o-ring to not make a very good seal. These do not appear to be the same as typical deck inspection port. Anyone know where to get new ones? Thanks in advance, Bruce Whitmore 1994 C&C 37/40+, "Astralis" (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Wikipedia. featuring a few different C&C models
Absolutely well done, Ken! We've only had our C&C 37/40+ for about 6 months now, and hope that in another year or so ours will start to look almost as good as yours! Thanks for sharing! Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: Gary Russell via CnC-List To: C&C List Cc: Gary Russell Sent: Wednesday, August 9, 2017 7:08 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Wikipedia. featuring a few different C&C models Ken, Very well written. Mine doesn't have ball bearing genoa cars, however. :-(.GaryS/V Kaylarah'90 C&C 37+East Greenwich, RI, USA ~~~_/)~~ On Tue, Aug 8, 2017 at 11:01 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote: It seems that the edits are coming from someone from our Club. All pictures are from the lake we sail on. There are probably close to 50-60 C&C boats at the Club. MarekOttawa, ON From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-bounces@cnc- list.com]On Behalf Of RANDY via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, August 8, 2017 21:43 To: cnc-list Cc: RANDY Subject: Re: Stus-List Wikipedia. featuring a few different C&C models That is a beautiful boat, Ken. Cheers,Randy StaffordS/V GrenadineC&C 30-1 #7Ken Caryl, CO From:"Ken Heaton via CnC-List" To: "cnc-list" Cc: "Ken Heaton" Sent: Tuesday, August 8, 2017 5:30:16 PM Subject: Stus-List Wikipedia. featuring a few different C&C models For my fellow C&C 37/40 owners and other list members, I recently noticed someone put several articles on Wikipedia, featuring a few different C&C models. I thought is was time I added one for the C&C 37/40 series: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ C%26C_37/40 Have a look and let me know what I may have missed. Thank you, //(\\./) (\\(\\\.(\/)/ /)/ Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin S/V Salazar - Can 54955 C&C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67 Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia __ _ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/ stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! __ _ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/ stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Stus-List PVC Handrails, 12" On Center
Hello all, I'm looking for someone to correct me if I'm going down a bad path... Our 1994 C&C 37/40+ has grayed out teak grab rails, 12' on center with 6 loops. We're in Florida, where sun likes to strip varnish away with ruthless abandon, and the boat has a sleek, modern look on the outside anyway. I am thinking about doing away with the teak rails and going with either stainless handrails or, I see that I can get white PVC rails from Hamilton Marine for about $160 apiece. I'm kind of thinking it might be hard to have really sleek looking stainless ones made which would easily mount through the existing holes in the deck... Anyone here have any experience with PVC handrails? Thanks for the insights, Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List changing stern light & converting nav lights to LEDs?
First to Richard, who started this thread:
First, identify the light. On our 1994 C&C 37/40+, ours lights are Aqua Signal
41 series lights. 1 screw at the bottom will remove the lens. As for the
bulb, in these, they are specifically Aqua Signal brand labled, and are 25 watt
incandescent bulbs on the bow lights and 10 watt on the stern.
The base is 1/2 across, but the pins are offset, one higher than another. I
don't know if this is an Aqua Signal brand thing going on, or if this is a
standard base for a similar automotive bulb number - does anyone know?
I'd like to convert our lights to LED, as 60 watts of total power for nav
lights is 5 amps, and with LEDs, I should be able to drop that to 1 amp or less
- that in my mind is a huge difference for cruising overnight.
Does anyone know the proper LEDs for accomplishing this, and at a reasonable
price? Yes, I understand if I put a bulb in that isn't specifically designed
for the light I may be deviating from the MFR requirements and thus maybe
causing an issue if there were to be an accident. Still, it's better than
running down a battery in my opinion.
One other note - From everything I have read, red LED replacements should be
placed behind red lenses and green behind green lenses (rather than using white
bulbs). This is because the colored LEDs produce light that is close to the
same wavelength as the lenses, so the filter very little of the light.
Guidance anyone? Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List
To: Richard Walter via CnC-List
Cc: Marek Dziedzic
Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2017 11:20 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List changing stern light
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6 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv3449315921 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4
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Consider mooring stern in, if possible, and work from the dock. Marek Sent
from Mail for Windows 10 From: Richard Walter via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2017 20:35
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Richard Walter
Subject: Stus-List changing stern light Ahoy!
Bulb is out(?) in the stern running light. 1) what is the the bulb for an OEM
1978 36-footer? 2) suggestions for swapping the bulb while we're in the water?
I'm thinking of taping the frame, etc. to the transom to try to minimize
dropping pieces overboard. 3) wait till the boat's on the hard?
Thanks, Richard Walter s/v INDIGO
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___
This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List changing stern light & converting nav lights to LEDs?
You Canadians don't have the benefit of Amazon Prime? That would suck... OK,
that could change my previous post.
Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
Cc: Marek Dziedzic
Sent: Sunday, August 13, 2017 8:37 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List changing stern light & converting nav lights to LEDs?
#yiv7004593869 #yiv7004593869 -- _filtered #yiv7004593869 {panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4
6 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv7004593869 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4
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Peter, If you are in Canada, you may try this
place:http://www.marineledscanada.ca/. I had good success with him. The best
thing is that he sails himself and knows a lot of different light fixtures from
dealing with other people. You can email him or call him and you should figure
it out. I had a problem with the anchor light (all bulbs that were originally
available were too long), but we eventually found something after a long string
of emails, pictures and measurements. And he is quite reasonably priced. Any
good source in the US would kill you with shipping. Marek Ottawa, ON
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Peter Fell
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, August 12, 2017 13:48
To: 1 CnC List
Cc: Peter Fell
Subject: Re: Stus-List changing stern light & converting nav lights to LEDs?
Well it can be a bit of a search for a correct bulb, at reasonable price, and
the manufacturers often don't always give very clear info. I've been looking
at LED festoon bulbs to convert a new Perko horizontal mount stern light on my
27 (the small 'dome' type), mounted in the teak trim on the stern. Previous
owner had replaced the dome on the original fitting (same style as the Perko)
with a all-round one (!), and the light itself was pretty deteriorated. So the
bulb is 31mm 'type 71', not the larger, much more common, 42mm. I've found
Dr. LED bulbs at $40+ (CAD) (part number 9000173) that are clearly identified
as a nav light replacement. Then there is the Victory SourceLED at $16 that is
only identified as 'for Perko lights'. I'll probably go for the Dr. LED. At
least I found an unused Perko fixture at a marine consignment shop for $22,
rather than the $75 I was quoted otherwise. By the way, I looked at the
Victory stern lights of the same style. Couldn't find a LED socket-type bulb
that would fit. And the Sea Dog versions you find all over the place (which I
think would have the same issue with LED bulbs) have not been tested to
international standards. ___
This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___
This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List changing stern light & converting nav lights to LEDs?
I have been in the process of replacing all the interior light bulbs with LEDs, and am now moving on to the navigation lights. For my bow navigation lights, I'm probably going to go with Marinebeam, as I could not find high-intensity green 1157 LEDs. There are plenty of red ones out there (think automotive turn signal bulbs), but not much in the way of bright green ones. I'm just waiting to hear back from them with confirmation of the lumens produced by their bulbs. As for the rest of the bulbs (and I will include the stern light in this comment because the Marinebeam light for the stern is going to be TOO bright), there are plenty of versions of festoon/automotive 12v LED bulbs out there, and many come in packages of 10 or more for somewhere around $15. The key is is look for lumens, and compare them to the bulb you are replacing. It takes a little bit of research, but by poking around the net you can find out how many lumens your current bulb puts out, consider whether you want your light to be brighter (usually that is the case), and also consider the color of the white light. I found that most of the time when it says "warm white", that amounts to 3000K, which was spot-on equivalent to the halogen bulbs I was replacing. You may want to go all the way to a bright white (6000K) for the stern light for the sake of aiding visibility, but I think that's a little too white for interior lights. As for the festoon bulbs, measure the length in mm, and search for them that way - don't worry, you'll find them. I also ended up putting a bright dome lamp in my engine compartment, and I had some strips of white LEDs, and now I can work on my engine without a flashlight. That's been a great addition. So far I can turn on every light in the boat and draw no more than 3 amps, and there's a lot of lights in our C&C 37/40+ Hoping you find this helpful, Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: Peter Fell via CnC-List To: 1 CnC List Cc: Peter Fell Sent: Saturday, August 12, 2017 1:49 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List changing stern light & converting nav lights to LEDs? Well it can be a bit of a search for a correct bulb, at reasonable price, and the manufacturers often don't always give very clear info. I've been looking at LED festoon bulbs to convert a new Perko horizontal mount stern light on my 27 (the small 'dome' type), mounted in the teak trim on the stern. Previous owner had replaced the dome on the original fitting (same style as the Perko) with a all-round one (!), and the light itself was pretty deteriorated. So the bulb is 31mm 'type 71', not the larger, much more common, 42mm. I've found Dr. LED bulbs at $40+ (CAD) (part number 9000173) that are clearly identified as a nav light replacement. Then there is the Victory SourceLED at $16 that is only identified as 'for Perko lights'. I'll probably go for the Dr. LED. At least I found an unused Perko fixture at a marine consignment shop for $22, rather than the $75 I was quoted otherwise. By the way, I looked at the Victory stern lights of the same style. Couldn't find a LED socket-type bulb that would fit. And the Sea Dog versions you find all over the place (which I think would have the same issue with LED bulbs) have not been tested to international standards. ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Courtesy lights replacement bulbs
Hello, I am just replacing them on my 1994 C&C 37/40+ now. If they are small chrome caps with cutouts to let the light out the bottom, then they should be the same as what I have. Mine were stamped 90 on the metal base, which is equivalent to the same base as a 1142 bulb, but you're right that they are quite small when it comes to the size of the glass globe. Here are the ones I ordered: 1142 LED Bulb w/ Stock Cover - 12 SMD LED - BA15D Retrofit - 107 Lumens | BA15 Bayonet Base Bulbs | Marine LED Replacement Bulbs | LED Boat Lights and Marine LED Lights | Super Bright LEDs | | | 1142 LED Bulb w/ Stock Cover - 12 SMD LED - BA15D Retrofit - 107 Lumens | BA15 Bayonet Base Bulbs | Marine LED Replac... LED replacement bulbs can fit numerous boat and RV applications such as navigation lights, cabin lights, dome li... | | | The BA15D (as opposed to a BAY15D) means that one contact on the bottom is for positive, one is for negative, and the base does not carry current. When compared to an 1157, there are two positive contacts on the bottom, and the metal base is the negative contact (think brake lights on an older car). This being said, they are arriving this week and I have NOT YET installed them, so I can confirm the fit after this weekend. I decided to go with red lights so that we can leave them on while sailing at night to go down below. The ones shown are 100 lumens, which should be somewhere between 2 - 4 times brighter than the original bulbs based on this chart: https://www.rvledbulbs.com/v/vspfiles/assets/images/datasheets/performancechart12vincandescentbulbs.pdf You can probably tell I've been digging into this a bit over the last few weeks, as I've been in the process of replacing all my interior lights with LEDs, and the replacements for the navigation lights will arrive this week as well... Hoping you find this helpful, Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List To: C&C List Cc: Kevin Driscoll Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2017 1:27 AM Subject: Stus-List Courtesy lights replacement bulbs Expanding on the LED discussion, does anyone know what type of bulb is in the courtesy lights in the Rob Ball era boats? They have to be small. Thanks,Kevin 1989 30-2___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Stus-List Small area deck core replacement
Hello all, Our 1994 C&C 37/40+ has a section of deck core, limited solely to the area under the sliding companionway hood that has become rotted and needs to be replaced. This was caused by the sliding hatch stop being slammed too many times by the DPO and the stop being solely held into the deck by wood screws. So, when I cut the deck and replace that area of core (it is probably about 18" x 36", would you recommend using end grain balsa core, or going with foam core? I have heard that getting foam core to stick during repair jobs can be difficult, but that's solely what I have heard, and I certainly want better input. Would any of you know the core thickness, and a good place to get it? No rush, this will wait until our rainy season is over, and I have everything really well sealed under there for now. Thanks in advance! Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Seeking thoughts on solar panel installation
I am also thinking about putting solar panels on our bimini. As to the Blue
Seas ACR, I used something different on our old C&C 27, a Yandina Battery
Combiner which is essentially the same thing, but the Yandina is very small, I
think it is much easier to install (no extra wires to run depending on where
you install it), and also has a very small LED for monitoring the status of the
combiner.
The green wire also allows you to hook up the combiner to an on/automatic/off
switch if you would so desire. More info can be found at:
Combiner 100 Sheet
|
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Combiner 100 Sheet
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What is the collective wisdom from the folks here?
Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
From: Damian Greene via CnC-List
To: C&C E-Mail List
Cc: Damian Greene
Sent: Friday, August 18, 2017 7:45 AM
Subject: Stus-List Seeking thoughts on solar panel installation
#yiv0442227663 #yiv0442227663 -- filtered {panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2
4;}#yiv0442227663 filtered {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2
4;}#yiv0442227663 p.yiv0442227663MsoNormal, #yiv0442227663
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1.0in;}#yiv0442227663 div.yiv0442227663WordSection1 {}#yiv0442227663 I’m
deliberately keeping this question broad, as I’m at an early stage of my
planning: As we keep our boat on a mooring, a constant concern is maintaining
charge in the batteries. Already on my winter list is to install a Blue Seas
ACR (automatic charging relay), to eliminate having to remember to switch
1/all/2. In addition, I’m thinking of installing a solar panel system. At a
minimum, I’d like a system that would bring the batteries from partially
depleted to full charge over a couple of days, so I’d be fairly confident in
having a full charge when I go out to the boat. Next step up would be a system
that would at least extend how long we can run the refrigerator on a cruise
without having run the engine a couple of hours/day. In terms of panel
location, I’m thinking on top of the bimini, as it’s 1) out of the way, and 2)
close to the batteries. I would welcome any advice/experience on selection of
brand, how many amps, and installation. Thanks, Damian 1982 C&C 34 GHOST
(for sale)1986 Sabre 38 (name still under debate 😊)Bass Harbor, Maine Sent
from Mail for Windows 10 ___
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___
This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List ST 40/60 gremlin
I had an interesting issue which we only sorta knew about when we bought Astralis, our 1994 C&C 37/40+. Battery 1 (starting battery) showed strong, but the #2 battery was showing 11.9 - 12.1 volts with no loads on them. After replacing the batteries with known good units, the battery voltage at the panel still showed 11.9 (and even lower at times). Knowing the first suspect was the ground connection at the engine, went back and started checking. I pulled on the battery cables, and they literally felt crunchy. Turns out the battery cables were corroded thoroughly, and badly needed replacement. You might try testing voltage at the back of the switch on your panel as a starting point. Just a thought... Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: David via CnC-List To: CNC CNC Cc: David Sent: Friday, August 18, 2017 9:52 AM Subject: Stus-List ST 40/60 gremlin All was well on our departure from home base to PTown for a long weekend. Then started get a low voltage warning via instruments. 8.8 v. Not right as engine meter showing all is well at 13+ Then ST fail at ST 7000 autopilot and depth,speed, and wind indicator power out. Upon harbor entrance depth and speed and wind (wind powered up but no readings) powerup but flickering lamps This morning nuthin. Multimeter shows 8 volts at power source of instruments. So jump to alternate power source and still nothing. Auto still powered up but still reading fail and gyro powered up by reading 0 I know it's diagnosing from afar but any first pass thoughts Thanks in advance. Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Stus-List Dinghy Recommendations?
Hello all, The last thing I want to do is to start "The Great Dinghy War". That said, our '94 came with two outboards, one 6.5 hp Honda 4 stroke mounted the the stern railing and an old Torqeedo. Haven't even gotten around to testing either one yet - too many other things on my list! Thre was a West Marine inflatable dinghy folded up under the v-berth, but the floor had entirely peeled out of it and is was in really poor shape. If we want to go on any kind of getaway (even a local one), I'm going to need a dinghy since transient slips here in the Tampa area are darned expensive. I'm really liking the idea of a porta-boat, especially given the ability to store it on deck easily. I've seen a couple of you comment very positively about them. I am also finding relatively few detractors. That said I want to keep my mind wide open as I way the options. I've read a number of articles that really push for a RIB with a 15hp yamaha as being the "standard" in the Caribbean due to combination of dryness, speed, and ability to get parts. However, in our harbor, we cannot keep a dinghy in the water next to our boat, so I think that may strike a RIB unless we hang dinghy davits from the stern which would probably force us into a bigger dock (which may not even be available in our marina). So,what dinghy, what size, and what outboard size/type? Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List ST 40/60 gremlin
Hi Dennis, Yep, heard you loud and clear when you posted that a few months back - It will be on my eventual list! :) I may reach out to you for some insights when that day approaches. Just not looking forward to it as of today... Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: Dennis C. via CnC-List To: CnClist Cc: Dennis C. Sent: Friday, August 18, 2017 1:22 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List ST 40/60 gremlin Which is why I re-wired my entire boat. :) $( Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA On Fri, Aug 18, 2017 at 11:59 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List wrote: I pulled on the battery cables, and they literally felt crunchy. Turns out the battery cables were corroded thoroughly, and badly needed replacement. ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Stus-List Fw: Courtesy lights replacement bulbs
Hello all, I thought I'd let you know what I found out The bulbs mentioned below fit very will and put out a good amount of red light through the courtesy lights, which made it easy to see down below when it is dark but won't disrupt you night vision. The small bulb size worked quite well in replacing the #90 bulbs. I would highly recommend them despite the $7 or so per bulb cost. The 4 bulbs combined draw less than an amp of power. Hoping you find this helpful, Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net - Forwarded Message - From: Bruce Whitmore To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2017 5:51 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Courtesy lights replacement bulbs Hello, I am just replacing them on my 1994 C&C 37/40+ now. If they are small chrome caps with cutouts to let the light out the bottom, then they should be the same as what I have. Mine were stamped 90 on the metal base, which is equivalent to the same base as a 1142 bulb, but you're right that they are quite small when it comes to the size of the glass globe. Here are the ones I ordered: 1142 LED Bulb w/ Stock Cover - 12 SMD LED - BA15D Retrofit - 107 Lumens | BA15 Bayonet Base Bulbs | Marine LED Replacement Bulbs | LED Boat Lights and Marine LED Lights | Super Bright LEDs | | | 1142 LED Bulb w/ Stock Cover - 12 SMD LED - BA15D Retrofit - 107 Lumens | BA15 Bayonet Base Bulbs | Marine LED Replac... LED replacement bulbs can fit numerous boat and RV applications such as navigation lights, cabin lights, dome li... | | | The BA15D (as opposed to a BAY15D) means that one contact on the bottom is for positive, one is for negative, and the base does not carry current. When compared to an 1157, there are two positive contacts on the bottom, and the metal base is the negative contact (think brake lights on an older car). This being said, they are arriving this week and I have NOT YET installed them, so I can confirm the fit after this weekend. I decided to go with red lights so that we can leave them on while sailing at night to go down below. The ones shown are 100 lumens, which should be somewhere between 2 - 4 times brighter than the original bulbs based on this chart: https://www.rvledbulbs.com/v/vspfiles/assets/images/datasheets/performancechart12vincandescentbulbs.pdf You can probably tell I've been digging into this a bit over the last few weeks, as I've been in the process of replacing all my interior lights with LEDs, and the replacements for the navigation lights will arrive this week as well... Hoping you find this helpful, Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List To: C&C List Cc: Kevin Driscoll Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2017 1:27 AM Subject: Stus-List Courtesy lights replacement bulbs Expanding on the LED discussion, does anyone know what type of bulb is in the courtesy lights in the Rob Ball era boats? They have to be small. Thanks,Kevin 1989 30-2___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Follow-up Regarding Dinghy Recommendations?
Hello all, OK, so I like the idea of the Porta Boat given the ability to fold & stow it on deck, as well as the reviews I have read. So far, I have simply found very few negative comments. That said, I am going to try to find one that I like on Craigslist and see if I can negotiate a test run on one before I commit to it. Before I do that, they come in 8, 10, 12 and 14 foot models. What length would you recommend, and why? Thanks everyone for your help, Bruce Whitmore 1994 C&C 37/40+ "Astralis" (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: Nate Flesness via CnC-List To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" Cc: Nate Flesness Sent: Monday, August 21, 2017 8:26 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Dinghy Recommendations? voting for the keep-it-light philosophy, we're happy with a 27 lb. 1.2 HP 30 year old Johnson/Evinrude that pushes an 8 ft Walker Bay with RID kit much faster than I can row it. We once had a water-ski boat,and I don't need my dink to act like that. We have davits, but hand the motor down and up - which is why 27 lbs is perfect. Bought one well used bur running fine for $300. Only caveat is, the little motors have little carb jets, most anything in the gas can cause trouble. I now fill the internal tank with a filter paper in the funnel to remove very fine crud. Nate 1980 C&C 30-1Tartan 31 On Fri, Aug 18, 2017 at 12:24 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List wrote: Hello all, The last thing I want to do is to start "The Great Dinghy War". That said, our '94 came with two outboards, one 6.5 hp Honda 4 stroke mounted the the stern railing and an old Torqeedo. Haven't even gotten around to testing either one yet - too many other things on my list! Thre was a West Marine inflatable dinghy folded up under the v-berth, but the floor had entirely peeled out of it and is was in really poor shape. If we want to go on any kind of getaway (even a local one), I'm going to need a dinghy since transient slips here in the Tampa area are darned expensive. I'm really liking the idea of a porta-boat, especially given the ability to store it on deck easily. I've seen a couple of you comment very positively about them. I am also finding relatively few detractors. That said I want to keep my mind wide open as I way the options. I've read a number of articles that really push for a RIB with a 15hp yamaha as being the "standard" in the Caribbean due to combination of dryness, speed, and ability to get parts. However, in our harbor, we cannot keep a dinghy in the water next to our boat, so I think that may strike a RIB unless we hang dinghy davits from the stern which would probably force us into a bigger dock (which may not even be available in our marina). So,what dinghy, what size, and what outboard size/type? Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net __ _ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/ stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List 1983 C&C 35 mark 3 new purchase
I agree with Rick's comments. We were out on a friend's Catalina 42 last
weekend, and while it was clearly voluminous down below, the lack of handholds
was very noticeable. His is probably a late-80s, early 90's boat.
That said, I wasn't going to say anything... :)
Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
From: Rick Brass via CnC-List
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Brass
Sent: Friday, August 25, 2017 10:25 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1983 C&C 35 mark 3 new purchase
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{}#yiv4979407916 I have to agree with Joe about the interior volume of the
CatBenHun boats. Wide beam carried well aft on the newer designs makes for lots
of interior room. Much more than on any of the boats designed in the 1980s.
That said, none of the newer Catalinas or Hunters I’ve been aboard (which
includes several models from 33 to about 45 feet) seem to be set up as good sea
boats. Few hand holds, few fiddles, big spaces between the cabinets. A local
Catalina 42 Mk2 owner has stopped taking his boat out on Pamlico Sound when the
wind is forecast to be above 15 knots because he and his wife were tired of
getting uncomfortable and bouncing around the interior when underweigh. (The
Sound averages only about 20 feet deep and develops a significant, short chop
at 20 knots and above. A Donzi 33 came into my marina yesterday from across the
Sound; they said they had to turn back twice because of the chop, and it was
blowing 8 to 12.) I suspect the better description of the boats I’ve been
aboard would be “Dock Condo” instead of “Cruising Boat”. Rick BrassWashington,
NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joe
Della Barba via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 25, 2017 8:51 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joe Della Barba
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1983 C&C 35 mark 3 new purchase If you look at any
recent CatBenHun in the 34-36 foot range, any version of the C&C 35 is going to
seem quite small and cramped. Any of the 35s will of course sail 10x better,
but that does not always matter to some people.Warning - the "have to have it"
aft double bunk under the cockpit is a long way from the air coming down the
forward hatch and right next to the hot engine. It may not be the cruising
paradise your wife thinks it is ;) JoeCoquinaC&C 35 MK I
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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___
This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List wheel squeak
If your wheel is stiff and you've lubed everything, then I would strongly
suspect a bent rudder shaft, and since it has been stiff since you bought the
boat, you're unfortunately in a position where you don't know all the past
history.
I had a friend who's wife was motoring and didn't realize there was a line of
pilings in the water (they were not well marked). She got the keel and rudder
in between the line and couldn't get out. It bent the rudder, but not so bad
that it couldn't be turned.
In the end, the insurance replaced the rudder and that solved the problem.
In your particular case, if you can determine the point and extent of the bend,
you can probably find a heavy-duty machine shop with a hydraulic press that can
straighten the shaft.
Sorry for the less than stellar news,
Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
From: Martin Kane via CnC-List
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Martin Kane
Sent: Friday, August 25, 2017 4:41 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List wheel squeak
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{}#yiv8452622575 I had the rudder out of my ’83 29-2 last winter. The only
metal bushing/bearing is where the post comes thru the cockpit sole. There was
only minimal wear on mine so I didn’t replace it. The fit between the rudder
post and fibreglass rudder tube is tight and there is no stuffing box like on
the prop shaft. There is just a tube which acts as a long bushing/bearing. If
the grease in the tube has gone hard, then injecting fresh won’t clear out the
old grease. If you decide to drop the rudder be careful as it is only held in
place by the two set screws in collar that sits on top of the post. I’d guess
it weighs about a 100lbs and doesn’t really have any good hand holds. So not
that easy to work with. When the boat on the hard I can move the rudder from
stop to stop with the pressure from one finger. Martin 29-2 Recalculating
From: Bruce Pope [mailto:brucep...@live.ca]
Sent: Friday, August 25, 2017 3:20 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List wheel squeak Hello. On a similar noteThe wheel on
my 1986 29-2 has been stiff since purchase 3 years ago. I have lube'd
everything in the steering system that was recommended by folks on this list
including pumping fresh waterproof grease into the rudder post stuffing box
thru a zerk fitting (with old grease pushing out of the top). I read a post
some time ago indicating that there is likely a bushing at the top of the
rudder post where it enters the cockpit sole - at the emergency tiller steering
unit. Wondering if anyone knows whether the 80's vintage C&C 29-2's also have
bushing/bearings down in the rudder post stuffing box ? If yes, also
wondering if anyone knows where I can get replacement bushings or will I have
to get someone to make them?I am borrowing a trailer to haul the boat and on a
pretty tight time schedule so would like to have parts in hand before I
haul.Thanks. Bruce1986 29-2GyrfalconKootenay Lake, BC
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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___
This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List wheel squeak
This brings up a good point - As for the cables, where would folks here buy them? Directly from Edson (expensive) or is there a less expensive, but still good quality alternative (say from McMaster Carr, Grainger, etc.)? Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: svpegasus38 via CnC-List To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" Cc: svpegasus38 Sent: Saturday, August 26, 2017 2:08 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List wheel squeak Had a similar thing happen sailing to Hawaii few years ago on a 1973 Ericson 35. 500 miles from Hilo I had a steering cable break. Dug out the emergency tiller, and continued to sail. No anchoring here, lol. Figured out it was almost impossible to steer a course while looking aft at the compass, chart plotter was to slow to steer by. We hove to, changed the cable and sailed off into the sun set, well it did take all day to get to the sun set. Next morning at 5am the other cable broke. This time the capt was at the helm and the seas were in the neighborhood of 20ft instead of 4 like the day before. Hove to again changed the second cable. The owner had changed out the cable 3 years before using hardware store wire rope. I heard from a friend, who sailed back to Victoria, that the cables broke again. My thought was that he had too stuff of cable for the sheave diameter. Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 Rebecca Leah LF39 Original message From: ahycrace via CnC-List Date: 8/25/17 20:08 (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: ahycrace Subject: Re: Stus-List wheel squeak Sailing down Narragansett bay a few years ago broad reach 7kts we hear a loud BANG and no steering. Get the sails down and anchor. We look under the cockpit and see that the idler plate is so rusted that one of the pullys has pulled right off. Get the emergency tiller out and attach it motor homea very bad day! Check that plate and all of the attached pullys. Edson has all the replacements if needed. I have pics of the bad plate before i took it off. I can post them when we get home we are in Newport watching the J class boats race. Gary. "Liberty" 38' Mk ll Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone Original message From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List Date: 8/24/17 10:08 AM (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Chuck Gilchrest Subject: Re: Stus-List wheel squeak Richard,Make sure to use a non-petroleum based lubricant for the bearings that support the wheel shaft (such as Superlube or other Teflon based grease). Don’t squirt WD-40 or any light weight spray lubricant into the grease holes as it will tend to flush any lube out of the nylon caged bearings. You can also check to see if the bearings are worn if you can move the wheel shaft up and down, or side to side. There should be no play in the shaft at all.. Edson does sell a “pedestal rebuild kit” that includes bearings, circlips and all the other thrust washers and replacement components for the wheel shaft. If you go down that road, I’d also take the time to replace the brake shoes if everything else is apart. The other possibility for your squeaky noise is the sheave pins (axles) for the bronze idler wheels. They ride on plain bushings and in the “old days” the axles were also bronze, which will wear out eventually and allow the sheaves to go flying into the bilge under tension at the worst possible time. If those have never been checked, replaced with stainless pins, or lubricated as described in Edson’s steering maintenance instructions, I would certainly do so. Once the sheave pins wear, the sheaves go out of alignment and the squeaking you hear may be the axles getting ready to let go. Finally, the Edson Idler plate at the base of the pedestal is generally made of mild steel below the deck. Not terribly subjected to the elements, but they can and will eventually start to rust. Once that happens, sheaves, cable alignments and other critical steering components can be affected, so check for a rusty idler plate as well as wobbly sheave uprights. Whatever you do, don’t wait for it to fail to fix it.. Boats without steering are not safe by any stretch of the imagination. The folks at Edson are very good at walking you through what you need and they have data sheets on most every C&C Steering system they sold for our boats.Cheers,Chuck GilchrestS/V Half Magic1983 35 LandfallPadanaram, MA From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2017 9:42 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Joel Aronson Subject: Re: Stus-List wheel squeak Is it an Edson pedestal? If so, there are two places to squeeze in grease under the compass. If you look on YouTube there are Edson videos on replacing the bearings and they show the grease points. I just did the bearing replacement on my current boat. Joel On T
Re: Stus-List wheel squeak - Follow up/Resolution
Hello all, I thought I would let you know what I found when I tracked down our creaking/crunching sound when we turned the wheel on our 1994 C&C 37/40+. According to the survey, the drive wheel at the rudder post had been recently replaced. When I went and looked at the idlers and the drive wheel, the wheel was slightly out of alignment. So, when the wheel was moved, the cable lightly rubbed the edge of the wheel ring, and the resulting noise was actually much worse than one would imagine. Once I backed off the bolts and slightly raised the drive wheel, the noise went away. FYI, I also found a loose idler pulley mounting nut, and also found the idler axles are stainless pins. In the end, a very easy fix. Thanks for insights everyone! Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" Cc: Bruce Whitmore Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2017 9:20 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List wheel squeak This brings up a good point - As for the cables, where would folks here buy them? Directly from Edson (expensive) or is there a less expensive, but still good quality alternative (say from McMaster Carr, Grainger, etc.)? Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: svpegasus38 via CnC-List To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" Cc: svpegasus38 Sent: Saturday, August 26, 2017 2:08 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List wheel squeak Had a similar thing happen sailing to Hawaii few years ago on a 1973 Ericson 35. 500 miles from Hilo I had a steering cable break. Dug out the emergency tiller, and continued to sail. No anchoring here, lol. Figured out it was almost impossible to steer a course while looking aft at the compass, chart plotter was to slow to steer by. We hove to, changed the cable and sailed off into the sun set, well it did take all day to get to the sun set. Next morning at 5am the other cable broke. This time the capt was at the helm and the seas were in the neighborhood of 20ft instead of 4 like the day before. Hove to again changed the second cable. The owner had changed out the cable 3 years before using hardware store wire rope. I heard from a friend, who sailed back to Victoria, that the cables broke again. My thought was that he had too stuff of cable for the sheave diameter. Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 Rebecca Leah LF39 Original message From: ahycrace via CnC-List Date: 8/25/17 20:08 (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: ahycrace Subject: Re: Stus-List wheel squeak Sailing down Narragansett bay a few years ago broad reach 7kts we hear a loud BANG and no steering. Get the sails down and anchor. We look under the cockpit and see that the idler plate is so rusted that one of the pullys has pulled right off. Get the emergency tiller out and attach it motor homea very bad day! Check that plate and all of the attached pullys. Edson has all the replacements if needed. I have pics of the bad plate before i took it off. I can post them when we get home we are in Newport watching the J class boats race. Gary. "Liberty" 38' Mk ll Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone Original message From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List Date: 8/24/17 10:08 AM (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Chuck Gilchrest Subject: Re: Stus-List wheel squeak Richard,Make sure to use a non-petroleum based lubricant for the bearings that support the wheel shaft (such as Superlube or other Teflon based grease). Don’t squirt WD-40 or any light weight spray lubricant into the grease holes as it will tend to flush any lube out of the nylon caged bearings. You can also check to see if the bearings are worn if you can move the wheel shaft up and down, or side to side. There should be no play in the shaft at all.. Edson does sell a “pedestal rebuild kit” that includes bearings, circlips and all the other thrust washers and replacement components for the wheel shaft. If you go down that road, I’d also take the time to replace the brake shoes if everything else is apart. The other possibility for your squeaky noise is the sheave pins (axles) for the bronze idler wheels. They ride on plain bushings and in the “old days” the axles were also bronze, which will wear out eventually and allow the sheaves to go flying into the bilge under tension at the worst possible time. If those have never been checked, replaced with stainless pins, or lubricated as described in Edson’s steering maintenance instructions, I would certainly do so. Once the sheave pins wear, the sheaves go out of alignment and the squeaking you hear may be the axles getting ready to let go. Finally, the Edson Idler plate at the base of the pedestal is generally made of mild steel below the deck. Not terribly subjected to the elements, but they can and wi
Stus-List Fw: Lessons learned from plastic welding water tank
In response to the prior post about fixing a leaking water tank, see my post below. One final update. An additional source I found around for LDPE was water softener bags. I think it might be a little thin to effectively weld with, but if you run short, it's nice to know that the bag you threw in the recycling bin just might help finish off the process. By the way, you should find that it will be relatively easy to remove the empty tank. Good Luck! Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net - Forwarded Message - From: Bruce Whitmore To: C&C List Sent: Saturday, August 5, 2017 11:54 AM Subject: Lessons learned from plastic welding water tank Hello all, First, I want to thank everyone here for their help - it really gave me a jump start on fixing my water tank. Here's what I found: - The tank is definitely made of LDPE (low density polyethelene). HDPE does NOT stick to it, so don't even begin to think that all polyethelene is the same. You can weld LDPE to HDPE, but not HDPE to LDPE. - Welding is the preferred method for fixing by comparison to epoxies designed to fix polyethelene. - I used a hot air blower welder from Harbor Freight Tools - it cost about $50. In hindsight, I probably could have done a better job with one of their soldering iron type that heats a hot disk end. Getting smooth melting of the rod into the tank plastic is very important, and I kept having issues with the plastic from the rods bubbling. In the end, I took a torch, heated up an old putty knife, and using that to smooth the edges. I'm sure this is partly because I don't get along particularly well with welding and soldering. It's the one task I have to teach myself to do better. Ideally, I think I would have used the type of welder that feeds strips/rods through the tip of the welder, but that one was not immediately available. - You want to weld the plastic with strips, not rods. Strips are easier to work with. If you can't find LDPE strips online, keep looking around the house for #4 recycleable plastic. The only place I found it around our house was the snap-on tops to Tupperware type containers. If you are buying strips, buy more than you think you'll need. I bought 5' of strips, and I could easily have used 10 to lay on the thickness I wanted. - Practice welding HDPE, say with a cracked old paint bucket or something. HDPE is much easier to find around the house, as laundry detergent bottles, and just about every other piece of recyclable plastic (except clear bottles) is made from it. Once you learn how to weld with HDPE, the process with LDPE is the same, and it will go much more smoothly. - Clean the tank with MEK. I did it both before and after the grinding/sanding. - Using a dremel, grind out a groove (this is actually pretty important, so don't skip this step). Even if you go through the tank, don't worry, you can build it up again with the strips. - Find a YouTube video or two to watch the process. - Sand the area with 80 grit sandpaper. - Drill a small hole at the ends of the cracks to keep the cracks from progressing - At the suggestion of another poster, I layed in a layer of stainless mesh over the crack thinking that if it cracked once, it might do so again, so reinforcing the area would be a good idea. Time will tell. - Be sure to water test it before putting it back in the boat. Hoping this set of step-by-step instruction helps, Bruce Whitmore1994 C&C 37/40+ (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List 29-2 stuffing box Now Stuffing Material Damage
I have to agree with Matt - There's the question of the missing key, potential
damage to the stuffing box material, etc. I would be quite concerned about
doing any motoring whatsoever until such time as the key is replaced.
Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
From: Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford
Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2017 2:05 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List 29-2 stuffing box Now Stuffing Material Damage
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Sounds to me like the mechanic who did the work a month ago should pull the
boat and take care of it (promptly). It is way too coincidental that this type
of issue arose within a month of the same work being completed. From: Jim Brown
via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2017 1:02 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jim Brown Subject: Re: Stus-List 29-2 stuffing box Now Stuffing Material
Damage Returning to the dock, I ran the prop in reverse and heard a small
“thud” from below. I discovered that the prop shaft had pulled out of the
coupling and pulled back through the stuffing box allowing sea water to enter.
We managed to push the shaft back through the stuffing box and back into the
coupling, thus stopping the water flow. The boat had been pulled about a month
before and the stuffing box removed, the flex hose replaced and all reinstalled
with new stuffing, etc. The mechanic that had done the work suggested that
pulling the shaft out of the box and then pushing it back in should not have
damaged the stuffing material and, therefore, the boat doesn’t necessarily need
to be pulled (again) to correct what caused the shaft to pull out. We have the
older set screw type coupling, not the split coupling. The set screw appears
damaged where is goes into the shaft dimple and the key is missing – hopefully
not lost in the shaft tube. I’m a little concerned about possible stuffing
damage and wondering if any “listers” have any advice. As always, this site is
very informative and enjoyable over all the years. Thanks very much. Jim
Brown “Flash Over” 1981 C&C 34 Vancouver From: CnC-List
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, February 24, 2017 2:20 PM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Re: Stus-List 29-2 stuffing box A couple of BIG slip joint
(Channelock) pliers will do the trick. The infamous packing gland wrench (sink
wrench) also works with one of the aforementioned pliers.
https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-190-Adjustable-Wrench/dp/B0031F02EK/ref=pd_lpo_200_lp_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=481P75GC53T779BWMF7R
I use a PTFE impregnated packing. I like conventional packing glands. I've
seen a couple of failures of dripless packings. A buddy just had his boat's
box re-packed by a yard. After just an hour or so of motoring, he observed
some gray wax-like stuff under the packing gland. He confronted the yard
manager with the evidence. seems they ran out of PTFE packing and finished
with this wax-like stuff. They re-packed it for him. Here's some reading for
you: http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/stuffing_box&page=2 Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Thu, Feb 23, 2017 at 4:57 PM, Bev Parslow
via CnC-List wrote: What tools are the best to tighten
the stuffing box on a 29-2. Also what is the size of the packing? What packing
should be used?
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Stus-List An Irma story with a good ending
Hello all, I thought I would share our story about Irma: As we prepared for Irma late last week, we went from “It looks like it’s going to miss us, but let’s prepare anyway”, to “this could be really bad, but we’ll be OK at home”, to evacuation in anticipation of a catastrophic hit. In that process, we resigned ourselves to the idea that flooding and/or structural damage to the house plus the total loss of our boat was highly likely. That realization was both sobering and enlightening. We figured out we could prepare for an extended uncertain future and fit much of what was really important to us (other than Astralis, of course!) in one car, and we gained a lot of clarity as to what is, and is not really important to us. Thankfully for us (though not for many here in Florida) Irma weakened dramatically after ravaging Marco Island about 3:30 PM and moved inland. We were fortunate enough to be able to seek protection in a senior living facility where my wife works. As I helped my wife assist the resident senior citizens (many with memory & physical disabilities), we put on calm faces while we anxiously waited for nearly 12 hours, expecting Irma to devastate Tampa. Then we watched as four things slowly happened: - Irma took a path inland a bit, robbing it of warm moisture from the Gulf, and directing the eye away from Tampa - The storm sped up from about 8 mph to 12-14 mph, indicating the storm would not stay long, and its strength would dissipate - Sheering winds bought dry air in from the east, which by late in the evening could be seen as wrapping nearly all the way around the eye reducing the power of the hurricane - The winds dropped on the west/southwest side of the storm, virtually eliminated the destructive storm surge that had been predicted – Massive amounts of water had been sucked out of Tampa Bay, but the expected 8+ feet of storm surge didn’t materialize, and it returned without much fanfare The final chapter of this short story is that we got to Astralis, our 1994 C&C 37/40+ yesterday, and found that she was floating nicely, the rudder had been jammed over from sitting on the sandy bottom but was otherwise OK, and we there was evidence of 2 previously unknown minor deck leaks over the stern berth. Everything else was remarkably fine. The marina had already replaced a torn-out lonesome post, and it was clear to us that had the storm hit much harder, things would have been very, very different. A little bit of further irony struck us as we realized that when we bought her on February 1st, she sat down in Marco Island. Had we not moved her to Tampa, she would have likely been a total loss. This was our first hurricane, having moved to Florida from Chicago only 2 years ago. We had a chance to see, first hand, how communities pull together to prepare for hurricanes, hunker down and help ease each other’s fears as they grasp the idea of losing their homes and most prized possessions, and help clean up the aftermath. Yet, our local damage is nothing like that incurred by so many others across the state. Gratefully, Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Gas solenoid
Hi David, The lighted switch under the sink turns on/off the solenoid. So, you need power to it from your panel switch, and you need the switch on to allow the solenoid to turn on the whole system. Interesting that it keeps clicking off sounds like a short. You might want to turn off the switch under the sink and see if that keeps the circuit breaker from tripping. Thankfully the solenoids are not only cheap, they're readily available - I would try an RV store if there is one nearby. Much cheaper than "marine". Good luck! Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: David Knecht via CnC-List To: CnC CnC discussion list Cc: davidakne...@gmail.com Sent: Monday, September 18, 2017 8:35 AM Subject: Stus-List Gas solenoid Sitting in mystic seaport this morning could not heat water ( bummer) because panel switch for propane kept clicking off. Solenoid replacement? Looks pretty decrepit. Also what does lighted on/off gas switch under sink do? Sent from my iPhone ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List A4 Cutting Out
Hello all,
I think I would reiterate what a few have said here, but the diagnostics are as
follows:
1). If the engine is making no noise whatsoever when the pushbutton switch is
depressed, check the switch first. You should be able to do this by jumping
the contacts momentarily. I had a switch fail, and its pretty easy to find a
replacement. Based on your description, I would not expect a hydrolock, but of
course, its best to close the seacock until you can get the engine running so
you don't suck water into the engine. Jump other places as needed to confirm
the issue.
2). As for it dying there are two issues to suspect. First is the coil. When
the get hot, they can fail, and then allow you to restart at another time.
That has nothing to do with the engine not turning over, though (of course).
The second, and also very high on potential failure issues is the combination
of points & condenser. After 10+ years of owning our 1977 C&C 27 MKIII, I
converted it to electronic ignition by ordering the parts from Moyer Marine.
When I got done adding up the cost of points, condenser, cap & rotor, a couple
changes and it almost equaled the cost of the Moyer conversion. It was VERY
easy to install, and the reliability of the motor jumped 100%. No more
overheated coils, burned distributor caps, and even the plugs ran a lot
cleaner. Just the ability to rely on the engine to a much greater extent was
worth the money. Crank the engine with a plug out, stuck in the plug wire cap
and grounded to the engine, and if you don't have spark, its definitely an
ignition issue. If the coil is oily on the outside (or is cracked), then
definitely replace the coil as a first step. By the way the coils and even the
points & condensers can normally be found at an auto parts store - look up the
conversions online, or if you can't find them, email me and I can probably get
them for you.
3). Dying can also be caused by a carburetor problem, most likely a clogged
jet. The carburetor is again, VERY easy to overhaul, and if you are gentle
taking it apart, you can probably do it without replacing any of the gaskets in
a pinch. I did so for years, and never had to buy new gaskets, but of course
others here might criticize me for not doing so. Again, this would have
nothing to do with the engine not turning over.
Don Moyer's A-4 manual is also highly recommended. It's not cheap, but between
the well written descriptions and the photos, its a real lifesaver (much better
than the Yanmar manufacturer manuals IMHO).
Feel free to drop me an email directly or call my number below if you need more
info.
Kindest Regards,
Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
From: Michael Cotton via CnC-List
To: Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List
Cc: Michael Cotton
Sent: Monday, September 18, 2017 8:40 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List A4 Cutting Out
I had an ignition coil fail on my A4. It would start and run then cut out.
Sometimes restart sometimes not. A coil replacement corrected the problem.
On Monday, September 18, 2017, 5:38:28 PM MDT, Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List
wrote:
Might try checking the ground on the engine. Mine had that problem a number
of years ago, taking it off and cleaning it up
solved the problem. Of course mine is a diesel and yours is gas, but I would
expect that the ground would be wired similarly.
Food for thought.
On 9/18/2017 8:15 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List wrote:
Hi Doug,
No noise whatsoever when I pushed the starter button. It was as if there
wasn’t enough current to activate the starter, but the batteries *did* have
enough charge at the time.
Cheers, Randy
On Sep 18, 2017, at 3:08 PM, svpegasus38 via CnC-List
wrote:
Randy, Are you getting any noise out of starter (click) when trying to start?
Even if you are hydro locked you should hear a click at the starter solenoid if
electrics are good. Check the coil for cracks, check points and condenser, or
electronic pick-up, ignition switch for loose/bad connections. Good luck.
Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device Doug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale)
Lf38 Rebecca Leah LF39
Original message From: Randal Stafford via CnC-List
Date: 9/18/17 07:29 (GMT-08:00) To:
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Randal Stafford
Subject: Stus-List A4 Cutting Out
Listers-
I’m having a problem with my Atomic 4, and hoped you might have some thoughts
to share.
When I went out for a sail yesterday, she started right up, as always. But
then she cut out heading away from the marina. Initially I suspected a fuel
flow problem, as the petcock on the tank has become difficult to turn. After
ensuring the petcock was in the open position and the tank was full, she
started right up again and ran smoothly for a good 10 minutes. Then she cut
out again, and wouldn’t start back up after some cranking. I sailed for a
c
Re: Stus-List Transmission position while sailing - Yanmar
Hi Josh, I was really curious when I read about the proper position of the shifter, and found multiple references of the following advisory purportedly from Yanmar as follows" And for Yanmar/Kanzaki: Advisory Number: MSA08-003: DATE February 8, 2008 Dealers and OEMs TO: All Marine Distributors SUBJECT: Gear in Neutral While Sailing All MODELS: All Sailboat Engines We continue to get questions regarding the correct gear position while sailing with the engine OFF. This advisory is issued as a reminder; Yanmar requires that if sailing with the engine OFF (not running) the transmission shifter must be in the neutral position or internal damage to the gear or sail-drive will result. This damage will not be covered by Yanmar’s Limited Warranty. Please instruct customers and dealers who deliver the sailboat to the customer, of the correct (Neutral) position for the marine gear while sailing. If the customer desires that the propeller shaft not spin while sailing, either a folding propeller, shaft break, or other suitable device may be used. However, Yanmar accepts no responsibility for the selection, installation, or operation of such devices. Please also refer to Marine service advisory “MSA07-001_Yanmar Sail Drive Propeller Selection” for additional information. If you have any questions regarding this advisory please contact a Customer Support representative." The reason for failure mode, as was describe to me, is that in reverse the clutch cones can chatter, quiver or vibrate against one another causing wear which eventually leads to slippage and a gear box re-build. Many already know how difficult a Kanzaki can be to get out of reverse after sailing with it locked. Here's a quote from the SBO forums: Quote: Originally Posted by glengreyUnfortunately I can attest to the proper Yanmar gear position. In the summer of 2008 my transmission (Kansaki on a 3GM30F engine) started slipping. Engine had 440 hours. always placed gear in reverse when sailing. After considerable discussion with Yamnar they advised they would not consider warranty (was passed the hours for that anyway). Upshot is new transmission. They advised that the cone clutch does "quiver" (my term) even though locked into reverse, producing wear and eventually slippage. I don't like believing everything I read on the internet, but I kept coming across this advisory. Hope this helps, Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List To: C&C List Cc: Josh Muckley Sent: Monday, September 18, 2017 9:12 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Transmission position while sailing Folding and feathering props can stay open if you don't stop the shaft by putting it in reverse. With a fixed prop you can reduce drag by "trailing the shaft" and leaving it in neutral. The problem is that some transmissions don't get properly lubricated in this condition (IIRC: paragon?) Reverse should always be fine no matter what engine/transmission. Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk1989 C&C 37+Solomons, MD On Sep 18, 2017 7:16 PM, "schiller via CnC-List" wrote: OK, gang. I know this has been discussed before but help me out. With the Universal M-25XPB in Corsair, the manuals said to shift he transmission into reverse after shut down while sailing. Withe the new Yanmar in Grace (C&C 35, Mark III), what is the prevailing wisdom as to transmission selection after shutdown while sailing. I instinctively put the transmission in reverse but can not find any Yanmar documentation as to what they recommend. Neil Schiller 1983 C&C 35, Mark III, #028 "Grace" White Lake, Michigan Scheduled for haulout 6 October __ _ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/ stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List A4 Cutting Out
Good point, Michael. There is a significant difference that I failed to mention between the in/out ignition switch and the push button, and in retrospect it may have been the push/pull that I replaced - It's been a lot of years, and I just replaced a different type of silver pushbutton switch on my 37/40+. Good insights from all, Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: Michael Brown via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Michael Brown Sent: Monday, September 18, 2017 9:21 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List A4 Cutting Out Hi Randy, a common wiring configuration has a positive wire coming from the starter stud to the ignition switch in. The ignition switch out feeds the ignition coil, starter button and gauges. If you pull the ignition switch on it should move the fuel gauge, ignition off might return the gauge to empty. If so that will confirm power is getting to and through the ignition switch. Michael Brown Windburn C&C 30-1 Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2017 17:15:08 -0600 From: Randy Stafford To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List A4 Cutting Out Message-ID: <8f1bd72a-bd6e-4e04-b0a3-4e09edff3...@comcast.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Hi Doug, No noise whatsoever when I pushed the starter button. It was as if there wasn?t enough current to activate the starter, but the batteries *did* have enough charge at the time. Cheers, Randy ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List A4 Cutting Out
Good point Michael, and it is a very easy job, as the mechanical pumps also fill a cup that is designed to retain a strainer. So, immediately after the engine dies, one can go down and ease off the thumb screw and check for fuel in the bowl. If there is an electric pump, one could remove the main jet or bottom bowl of the carb and check for fuel there. Probably easier would be to simply remove the fuel line at the carb and see how much fuel is in the line. I like the idea of replacing the rubber fuel line out of pure proactive maintenance, however. I still suspect an ignition problem more than a fuel blockage. The way to know is *how* the engine shuts off. If it sputters to a stop, it's generally fuel. Chug-chug-chug... If it simply goes from running to stopped, the its likely electrical, i.e., a condenser or coil going bad. And, once it stops and won't restart, pulling a plug, connecting it to a spark plug wire and grounding the plug while cranking the engine will tell you if you have spark or not. Good luck! Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: Michael Brown via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Michael Brown Sent: Friday, September 22, 2017 9:04 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List A4 Cutting Out If you have the mechanical style fuel pump you may be able to use it for troubleshooting. The pump has a mechanical primer in the form of a wire bail that goes around outside of the body. Part way down here is a picture of the pump: https://www.moyermarine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=410 There is a bail that holds the fuel cup on, and a second smaller one you can see in the left picture around the lower part of the pump. If there is fuel available then after levering it out a couple of times it will fill the carburetor and tend to stay out. If you can prime the pump a dozen times then either there is no fuel, there is a problem with the lines or maybe the carb is getting flooded. Michael Brown Windburn C&C 30-1 From: Randy Stafford Update on this - went down to the boat today, pulled plugs, changed oil. No sign whatsoever of water in the engine. Then on testing, she started right up, ran smoothly at idle for several minutes, then shut down suddenly. And wouldn?t restart after a few short cranking attempts (with raw water intake closed). From that I was relieved that the starter and solenoid and starter circuit were working, and the ignition circuits. Per Occam?s Razor I removed and inspected the fuel petcock, as it?s been troublesome this year (it became increasingly difficult to turn, then suddenly easier to turn, hmmm?). I believe it to be the culprit. It was stuck in what appeared to be a closed position, and turning its handle didn?t change that. I suspect it may have been just open enough to allow the fuel line to fill, given enough time. But once the engine consumed the fuel in the line, it wasn?t open enough to keep supplying the engine. I bought a new fuel shut-off valve from West Marine and will install it tomorrow and report back. As for my starter not working Sunday when I pushed the button, I?ll let that remain a mystery unless it happens again. Maybe I didn?t have the ignition switch pulled out far enough when I pressed the button. Cheers, Randy ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List question about a C&C 30 mkii keel
Hi Josh, Quick question which I've wrestled with in my mind - Why torque the keel bolts on the hard? Since the keel will spend most of its time hanging from the bottom of the boat in the water, isn't it better to torque the bolts in the specific situation where the stresses will be applied? Thanks for the insights, Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List To: C&C List Cc: Josh Muckley Sent: Friday, September 22, 2017 10:15 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List question about a C&C 30 mkii keel C&C smile. This is common where the lead keel meets the fiberglass keel stub. First order of business is to torque/check of the keel bolts. This is done on the hard. Then check for water ingress in the water. From the pictures it looks like someone else already did some fill work. Worst case scenario you'll have to drop the keel and re-bed. Second to worst case is that you'll use some type of epoxy and filler and fiberglass to patch a bandaid around the crack. Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk1989 C&C 37+Solomons, MD___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Stus-List How long do your zincs last (saltwater, on a dock, plugged in to shore power
Hello all, I just wanted to check in with you folks. For those of you who are in saltwater, on a dock, and plugged into shore power, how long would you expect to see your shaft zinc last? I get a regular report from our diver, who, after about 6 months, indicated that the zinc is down to about 70% of new. Thanks for the input, Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Hatch replacement experiences.
I can't say I've ever seen, nor heard of butyl rubber in a tube. Just FYI, Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: Tom Jacobs via CnC-List To: Dave Godwin Cc: Tom Jacobs ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2017 8:07 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Hatch replacement experiences. Dave Did the same on our 37 Amazing Grace about five years ago. Used new screws, no bolts. Invested time in digging out the minor amount of open weak wood. There was no rot but around the screws has some gaps and would not have held the screws with out solid filling. After filling with epoxy leveled the surface better than original to allow a consistent fill of sealant. I think we used butyl rubber from a tube. Still working in San Diego, no leaks. Sent from my iPhone 972-849-4730 On Sep 26, 2017, at 2:17 PM, Dave Godwin wrote: So I’m crowd-sourcing this question that I have. Always good ideas and experiences here. I purchased a Lewmar Ocean Hatch 60 (shout-out to Fred Street) last year and am now getting ready to install it as a replacement for the Atkins-Hoyle hatch that I buggered up removing it prior to painting the decks. The original hatch used what are I believe (threw away all the originals like a dope…) #14 stainless steel sheet metal screws screwed into the deck. No through-bolting. Twenty of those and butyl. Worked pretty well for 30-plus years The new Lewmar specifies through-bolting the frame, using #12 machine screws and nuts. Let’s just say that I am really reluctant to run bolts through my overhead and having to stare at them when lying and looking upwards in the v-berth. So, what have those who have replaced their original hatches done? Best,Dave Godwin 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin Reedville - Chesapeake BayRonin’s Overdue Refit ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Hatch replacement experiences.
Hello all, I am thinking about a number of similar attachments where I'd really like a machine screw attachment instead of a wood screw type (which in my opinion tears up fiberglass and/or whatever you're screwing it into). This way one can remove the screw multiple times. So, I came across the idea of a threaded insert like this: https://www.amazon.com/Z-Threaded-400-3-CR-Stainless-Internal/dp/B002WC8TS4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1506518994&sr=8-3&keywords=stainless+steel+threaded+inserts If one overdrilled the hole, filled it with thickened epoxy, and put in a threaded insert, wouldn't that do double duty as far as preventing future core damage while allowing hatches & such to be removed at will for rebedding in the future? Curious as to how this approach would be lacking, Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: Dennis C. via CnC-List To: CnClist Cc: Dennis C. Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2017 5:50 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Hatch replacement experiences. Dave, I haven't done exactly what you describe but have done similar work. If it was me, I'd fill the old holes with thickened epoxy and go with the #12 fasteners. You didn't say if the new bolt pattern completely or partially overlaid the A&H hatch. If it matches, overbore and fill. In fact, if you overbored and filled regardless you'd probably end up with a strong bond. My thinking is that the deck is only 1/4-3/8 inch or so. So the fastener is only grabbing that much. If you overbore carefully down to the top of the headliner and fill with thickened epoxy, you'll have a plug that is thicker than the original deck. More material for the fastener to grab. Measure the depth of the hole before you fill so you'll have a good idea of what length fastener to use. Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA On Tue, Sep 26, 2017 at 4:17 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List wrote: So I’m crowd-sourcing this question that I have. Always good ideas and experiences here. I purchased a Lewmar Ocean Hatch 60 (shout-out to Fred Street) last year and am now getting ready to install it as a replacement for the Atkins-Hoyle hatch that I buggered up removing it prior to painting the decks. The original hatch used what are I believe (threw away all the originals like a dope…) #14 stainless steel sheet metal screws screwed into the deck. No through-bolting. Twenty of those and butyl. Worked pretty well for 30-plus years The new Lewmar specifies through-bolting the frame, using #12 machine screws and nuts. Let’s just say that I am really reluctant to run bolts through my overhead and having to stare at them when lying and looking upwards in the v-berth. So, what have those who have replaced their original hatches done? Best,Dave Godwin 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin Reedville - Chesapeake BayRonin’s Overdue Refit __ _ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/ stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Stus-List Anchor chain & rode advice, C&C 37/40+
Hello all, We have a 1994 C&C 37/40+, and the anchor chain connected to its primary anchor, a 35 lb. Delta, is fused together with rust. The chain is also about 20 ft. in length, which I suspect is too short, as the conventional wisdom I think is that chain at least as long as the boat is highly recommended in order to keep the anchor set. Then there is the line, which is about 150 feet, which equally I think is a little short, though we are located on the west side of Florida where anchoring in 20 feet of water is almost an impossibility unless we're stupid enough to set anchor in the middle of the ICW. That said, we will eventually want to be doing some cruising down into the Caribbean, so I'm thinking carrying some additional rode poses little downsides. Finally, I've read that the recommended line size is 1/8" for every 9 feet of boat length, but of course that is somewhat relevant as to windage and boat weight. I consider our C&C to be relatively low both on the windage and weight scales, especially compared to the 40 foot powerboats I've seen out there. The 1/2" line (which is on the boat now) has a breaking strength of 7,500 lbs., but I presume the issue is more about chafe protection than breaking strength per se. So, the questions are as follows: 1). What size, type and length of chain would you recommend? We don't have a windlass now, but may eventually put one in. 2). Should I go with 9/16" line vs. the 1/2"? What length would you recommend if you were going to consider cruising in the Caribbean? I'm thinking of carrying 40 ft. of BBB chain and 250 ft. of rode on the primary Delta anchor, and perhaps a little less on both chain and line for our secondary (a Danforth), though I'm not sure that carrying the lesser amount on the secondary is advisable. Thanks in advance, Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net ___ The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again. October will be our fund raising month. Please consider sending a small contribution to help keep this list running. Use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List LED Interior Flourescent replacements
I did the same thing as Tom, and I used these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MSJ58UI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Overall I'm happy, they were rated for somewhat more lumens, and I used 2 in each of the fixtures. In a perfect world, I might have even added a 3rd per fixture, but with the other lights being replaced with LEDs, this works fine. Hope this helps, Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Tom Buscaglia Sent: Sunday, October 8, 2017 12:30 PM Subject: Stus-List LED Interior Flourescent replacements I didn’t use replacement tube because the old fluorescent fixtures were going off rather than the bulbs. The fixtures were all behind a translucent panels. So, I pulled out the old fixtures and hard wired LED strip lights. I used two in each location, that are chain wired with a jumper. Cleaned the surface and used double sided tape. Works great. I also replaced all of the bayonet bulbs with LED replacements. Tom B Tom BuscagliaS/V Alera 1990 C&C 37+/40Vashon WAP 206.463.9200C 305.409.3660 Message: 1 Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2017 15:35:41 + From: kelly petew To: cnc-list Subject: Stus-List LED Interior Flourescent replacements Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Anyone have any experiences to share with replacing your original fluorescents with LEDs? Is it simply 'plug & play', i.e., old tube out, new LED tube into the existing fixture?? Thanks!! Pete W. Siren Song '91 C&C 30-2 Deltaville, Va. - ___ The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again. October will be our fund raising month. Please consider sending a small contribution to help keep this list running. Use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again. October will be our fund raising month. Please consider sending a small contribution to help keep this list running. Use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Fresh water plumbing winterizing
Just makes me think of Spaceballs where Mega Made is switched from Suck to Blow Mega maid suck to blow | | | | || | | | || Mega maid suck to blow | | | | Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Josh Muckley Sent: Monday, October 9, 2017 5:13 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Fresh water plumbing winterizing Instead of an air compressor I use a shop vac set on blow instead of suck. I have fewer fears of over pressuring the system and a small 1 gallon shop vac is great for around the boat anyway.Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Mon, Oct 9, 2017, 3:32 PM Tom Lynch via CnC-List wrote: Marek, Thank you for your very detailed procedure. What type and size of air compressor what you recommend for this job? On Mon, Oct 9, 2017 at 2:37 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote: Tom, This is how I do it: 1. drain water from the fresh water tank (does not need to be completely empty)2. drain water from the water heater3. highly advisable - install a water heater by-pass (multiple models available from RV supply; but I strongly suggest getting one withTWO valves (https://www.amazon.ca/Valterra-P23503LFVP-Water-Heater-Pass/dp/B00HSO57LS/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1507576917&sr=1-2&keywords=water+heater+bypass)4. disconnect the system from the pump (above the pump)5. - purge any remnants of water from the system using compressed air (for that you may need an adapter that can be purchased from any RV place or online (e.g.:https://www.amazon.ca/Camco-36143-Brass-Quick-Connect/dp/B002XL2IEA) - you may need to MacGyver an adapter using the above and various length of hose, nipples etc.).6. when you do it, close all faucets and then open one at a time (do it for each faucet on cold and hot water)7. this would be especially complicated for hot water, as your heater would have plenty of water to be purged.8. engage the water heater bypass9. disconnect pump from the supply line from the tank.10. attach to the pump a length of appropriate hose and put it into a jug of antifreeze11. run the pump drawing AF from the jug until the pink stuff comes out of each and every faucet12. repeat 4.-6., this time to evacuate any remnants of AF You would need to modify this list to get the water out of the galley pump and water lines. It would be a modification of 4.-6. Or is the foot pump getting water from the lake? If so, you simply close the through-hull, disconnect the hose, put it into the AF jug and pump. (btw. the same procedure as for the supply side of the head). If you have a cockpit shower, don’t forget it in your procedure Never put AF into the water heater - it is difficult to drain, you would need 5-6 gal of it to fill it, supposedly, it can turn into a cotton-candy-like mush, if heated and you would have a hard time getting the taste out of the water after this. If you have an ice-box, the chances are that you have a pump that pumps out water from the bottom of it. Make sure that you winterise it, as well. If you have a drain in the head (shower sump?), make sure that you winterise it, as well. I hope I don’t need to mention that you need to winterise properly the head. It is not enough to just put some AF into the bowl and pump it out. You need to put AF into the supply side, as well. If this list scares you, it should not; it is much easier than it sounds. Marek 1994 C270 ”Legato”Ottawa, ON(the above procedure is still ahead of me, but I usually do it on the hard)From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Tom Lynch via CnC-List Sent: Monday, October 9, 2017 14:59 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Tom Lynch Subject: Stus-List Fresh water plumbing winterizing What's the best practice for Winterizing the fresh water system? My system: 40 gallon tank estimated Water heater Pressurized water pump2 fixtures hot / cold from the pump 1 fixture in the galley from a foot pump. My boat is on Lake Superior northern WI. And no I cannot sail it to warmer climate for the winter. Tom LynchS/V IndoIrishC&C 33 MKIIBayfield WI - Lake Superior ___ The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again. October will be our fund raising month. Please consider sending a small contribution to help keep this list running. Use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again. October will be our fund raising month. Please consider sending a small contribution to help keep this list running. Use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All contributions are greatly appreciated! _
Re: Stus-List Lost at sea...um , yeah
ROFLMAO! That's a classic... Thanks for sharing! Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Frederick G Street Sent: Friday, November 3, 2017 9:15 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Lost at sea...um , yeah That’s hilarious! Made my Friday. — Fred Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( On Nov 3, 2017, at 2:36 AM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List wrote: Great deal on a 50 ish footer: https://honolulu.craigslist.org/oah/boa/d/50-foot-sailboat/6370727567.html ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Raymarine instrument covers
Hello all, We got to the boat over the weekend and found one of the small square instrument covers for our Raymarine instruments (ST60+, etc.) had evidently got blown off. One was gone, another was loose. These things are $20+ shipping. Pretty stupidly priced for a piece of plastic IMHO. I don't necessarily mind replacing one of them, but I'm concerned about having to do so multiple times. Anyone have a better solution? Thanks! Bruce Whitmore 1994 C&C 37/40+ "Astralis" (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Mast Boot Tape
Hello all, I was wondering if some of you may have some insights regarding mast boot tape. We have had a slight leak around the base of the mast since we bought the boat in February. I pulled off a mass of old tape which was peeling anyway, and applied Rubbaweld Mast Boot Tape with somewhat marginal success (it was my first attempt). In that since I was doing the job single handed, I had to start by taping the end of the tape to the mast with duct tape to hold it while I pulled it tight. I also found it was kind of a pain to have to pull off liner from the tape surface simultaneously while pulling on the tape hard enough to activate the adhesive and get it to bind. It was also pretty difficult to get a good span from the base of the mast deck entrance to the mast itself, and I had difficulty getting the tape to fuse into a nice tight end. In the end, the stuff appears to be about the same as what came off, which looked perpetually dirty. I understand this is mostly an issue of user error, but It seems to me there must be a better solution. For example, anyone ever try white shrinkwrap tape? It would seem ideal - waterproof, sticks to boat hulls well, doesn't leave sticky residue, is UV resistant, and would stay much cleaner. Any other solutions? Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Mast Boot Tape
Agreed as to sealing the slot, but the nice thing is on ours that the spar manufacturer thoughtfully filled the slot below the boom vang attachment, so it makes for a nice smooth penetration through the deck. Still wondering about better tape options, though... Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: Neil Andersen via CnC-List To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" ; "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" Cc: Neil Andersen Sent: Monday, November 13, 2017 3:22 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast Boot Tape Also don’t forget that if you are keel stepped AND have a mast slot for slugs on your mainsail luff. Darn near impossible to seal that channel with just the boot tape. Neil Andersen20691 Jamieson RdRock Hall, MD 21661From: CnC-List on behalf of Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List Sent: Monday, November 13, 2017 3:13:03 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Matthew L. Wolford Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast Boot Tape Under “other solutions,” I use a Spartite plug at the partners which, in addition to holding the mast in place, also keeps water out. From: Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List Sent: Monday, November 13, 2017 2:25 PMTo: C&C List Cc: Bruce Whitmore Subject: Stus-List Mast Boot Tape Hello all, I was wondering if some of you may have some insights regarding mast boot tape. We have had a slight leak around the base of the mast since we bought the boat in February. I pulled off a mass of old tape which was peeling anyway, and applied Rubbaweld Mast Boot Tape with somewhat marginal success (it was my first attempt). In that since I was doing the job single handed, I had to start by taping the end of the tape to the mast with duct tape to hold it while I pulled it tight. I also found it was kind of a pain to have to pull off liner from the tape surface simultaneously while pulling on the tape hard enough to activate the adhesive and get it to bind. It was also pretty difficult to get a good span from the base of the mast deck entrance to the mast itself, and I had difficulty getting the tape to fuse into a nice tight end. In the end, the stuff appears to be about the same as what came off, which looked perpetually dirty. I understand this is mostly an issue of user error, but It seems to me there must be a better solution. For example, anyone ever try white shrinkwrap tape? It would seem ideal - waterproof, sticks to boat hulls well, doesn't leave sticky residue, is UV resistant, and would stay much cleaner. Any other solutions? Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
cnc-list@cnc-list.com
I have to agree with Neil. The rigging is responsible for your primary mode of propulsion, and the forces are signficant. At least down here in Florida (Tampa area), riggers are pretty inexpensive, and the investment is well worth it for peace of mind. Just my $.02 worth, Bruce Whitmore 1994 C&C 37/40+"Astralis" (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: schiller via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: schiller Sent: Friday, November 17, 2017 9:07 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Standing Rigging Question From a Former C&Cer From somebody who has lost a rig. Of all of the things we spend our money on, the rig is one where spending the money on a rigger makes sense. It is no fun to be bobbing a mile off shore trying to collect rigging and sails in three foot waves, afraid to engage the motor for fear of tangling in lines or sails. Find a rigger and have him give you advice. Neil Schiller Old: 1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7 (dismasted) New: 1983 C&C 35, Mark III, #028 "Grace" White Lake, Michigan On 11/17/2017 8:54 PM, bobmor99 . via CnC-List wrote: Thank you for the replies. After some research it looks like I should use double jaw toggles to connect the eyes of the new shrouds to the eyes in the existing shroud plates. http://hayn.com/marine/rigging/tj.html#djt On Fri, Nov 17, 2017 at 6:41 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote: Yeah I kinda misinterpreted the description. The swadged end fittings should be properly attached to a tang which could then be through bolted to the mast. On Fri, Nov 17, 2017, 8:10 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote: You can’t run a bolt through the eye on the end of a shroud. The tangs line up the direction of pull, a bolt would be getting pulled on at an angle trying to yank the head/nut off from one side. Joe Coquina From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-bounces@cnc- list.com] On Behalf Of Neil Gallagher via CnC-List Sent: Friday, November 17, 2017 2:23 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Neil Gallagher Subject: Re: Stus-List Standing Rigging Question From a Former C&Cer It's common to have the lowers attach directly to the spreader bracket, is it possible that the plate is part of the bracket? . Further, a plain bolt through the mast, when tightened, could cause the walls of the mast to bend or collapse. There should be a compression tube inside the mast through which the bolt goes to prevent that. On my mast the compression tube and bolt are directly in line with the spreaders, and the tang plate for the lowers is part of the spreader bracket. Attaching the lowers to just a plain bolt through the mast doesn't seem advisable. Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 11/16/2017 9:24 PM, bobmor99 . via CnC-List wrote: Hurricane Irma claimed Ox, my beloved 33-1. In its place I now have a 1979 Cal-31. I am hoping for some sympathy-advice regarding the standing rigging on my new boat. Below is the as yet unanswered question I posted on the Cal user group site: ---Greetings, My new-to-me 31 came with an oversized, uninstalled, brand new set of shrouds. The mast ends have beefy eye fittings. The existing lowers terminate with jaws that connect to rectangular plates (port and stbd) that are bolted together through the mast. I am wondering if the intent was to do away with the plates and run the bolt directly through the four eyes (two eyes on each side, of course). :-) Any thoughts or ideas are most welcomed. Cheers, --Bob M __ _ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/ stumurray __ _ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/ stumurray __ _ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/ stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Removing companionway slider plexiglass, C&C 37/40+
Hello all, I am going to replace the plexiglass on my companionway. The sliding part is easy. However, for the fixed portion forward of slider, it is stuck down to fiberglass. I am guessing that it was originally installed with Plexus like the fixed ports on the side were done. Can anyone confirm that? As for removing the plexi, should I simply tap a few putty knives in between the plexi and the fiberglass to pop it loose, or do you have a better idea? Then seal with VHB tape, correct? This area seems to be about 1 1/2" wide by comparison to the fixed ports. Thanks for the insights! Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List One other question....
On the slider, there is a piece of teak that is used to push open & pull closed the hatch from the outside. I'd like to replace that with something more maintenance free, and I'm thinking either something like a bar of starboard or PVC. What would you recommend? Thanks! Bruce Whitmore 1994 C&C 37/40+"Astralis" (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
cnc-list@cnc-list.com
It is a 1994 C&C 37/40+. I have one stanchion base that is cracked that I'd like to replace. Thanks! Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Wet core around swing keel stop, 1994 C&C 37/40+
Hello all, We have a relatively new to us C&C 37/40+ with a swing keel. There is a keel stop on the deck which amounts to a stainless steel tube mounted to a plate, welded over (mostly) at one end, with 8 bolts going through the plate and a thick plastic block. I noticed the bolts were a little loose, and removed it today with the idea of rebedding the whole thing and tightening the bolts. As we were reassembling, I noticed water dripping down the bolts and the underside of the deck deforming due to the wet core. I drilled a few holes from the bottom to allow any remaining water to drip out, and Florida warmth & sun (to return in another couple months) to bake the moisture out, and dry out the deck. Thankfully, when I drilled the holes, the balsa that came out of the hole with the drill bit was, by and large, fresh looking, with little black mold, though there was some brownish water that was dripping out. Have any of you had this problem, and what have you done to resolve it? I am aware of the idea of drilling holes, drying out the balsa and injecting penetrating epoxy, followed by thickened epoxy to fill any voids. Just wondering if I'm on the right track... Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Adjustable Genoa Cars, 1994 C&C 37/40+
Hello all, I was wondering if you folks might be able to give me some guidance. I ordered adjustable Genoa track cars from Garhauer, and even sent them a photo of the track. When they got here, the cars won't fit - they will not even slide over the track. I sent new photos to Garhauer, and Guido looked at them and informed me that not only do they not make adjustable cars that fit, they can't even custom make them. Have you folks obtained adjustable cars, and if so, from where? Bruce Whitmore 1994 C&C 37/40+, "Astralis" (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Adjustable Genoa Cars, 1994 C&C 37/40+
Here is a photo of the car: https://www.dropbox.com/s/d7xjokgr6ndss8u/Track%20Car.jpg?dl=0 Here is a photo of the end of the track: https://www.dropbox.com/s/hj5gygo52qf25p9/Track%20Photo%20%231.jpg?dl=0 And here is a photo of the track: https://www.dropbox.com/s/80aoxpg4igj3pmv/Track%20Photo%20%233.jpg?dl=0 Can anyone here suggest a solution for retrofitting adjustable cars to this track? Garhauer was only $430 for the full kit (both sides), but the cars don't fit the track, and they say they can't match it. Have any of you had luck with getting Garhauer to make a car to match this track? I really don't want to spend more than twice the Garhauer price. I'm not going to race, and I need $1,000 more than I need adjustable cars... Thanks! Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: Dennis C. via CnC-List To: CnClist Cc: Dennis C. Sent: Tuesday, December 19, 2017 4:37 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Adjustable Genoa Cars, 1994 C&C 37/40+ I have Lewmar Size 1's. They're OK but I'm not overly happy with them. Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA On Tue, Dec 19, 2017 at 2:34 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List wrote: Hello all, I was wondering if you folks might be able to give me some guidance. I ordered adjustable Genoa track cars from Garhauer, and even sent them a photo of the track. When they got here, the cars won't fit - they will not even slide over the track. I sent new photos to Garhauer, and Guido looked at them and informed me that not only do they not make adjustable cars that fit, they can't even custom make them. Have you folks obtained adjustable cars, and if so, from where? Bruce Whitmore 1994 C&C 37/40+, "Astralis" (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net __ _ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/ stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Adjustable Genoa Cars, 1994 C&C 37/40+
Great idea Ken! Thank you very much. I had totally forgotten about "The Third Wave". I have reached out to Eric. This list is worth every bit of my donation - and more! Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: Ken Heaton via CnC-List To: cnc-list Cc: Ken Heaton ; Tom Buscaglia Sent: Wednesday, December 20, 2017 5:18 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Adjustable Genoa Cars, 1994 C&C 37/40+ So it looks like Bruce has Lewmar Size 2 Track? 30 mm wide? https://www.lewmar.com/node/ 18461?v=26011 https://www.lewmar.com/store? field_category[]=7&field_ hardware_type[]=173&field_ product_range[]=228&field_ product_range[]=208&field_ boat_type[]=11&lf=0<=4&f=1& o=d https://www.lewmar.com/store? field_category[]=7&field_ hardware_type[]=173&field_ product_range[]=228&field_car_ type[]=281&lf=0<=4&f=1&o=d Bruce, by any chance, did you get in touch with Shining Waters Marine, who recently scrapped C&C 37R Hull No. 4, "The Third Wave" to see what make of Genoa Track hardware was on her? You may be able to get a good deal if it that boat had what you need to put this together. eric.sm...@shiningwaters.ca Ken Heaton On 19 December 2017 at 22:20, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List wrote: Yep, those are Lewmar tracks Here's the car, but no idea where the rest of it is https://www.lewmar.com/node/14 629?v=27113 At 04:44 PM 12/19/2017, you wrote: Message: 4 Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2017 19:43:22 -0500 From: Eric Baumes To: cnc-list Subject: Re: Stus-List Adjustable Genoa Cars, 1994 C&C 37/40+ Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" I think they are Lewmars. My '93 34+ has a lot of Lewmar stuff,traveller, blocks, etc. Eric .¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸, ¤º°`°º¤. Tom & Lynn Buscaglia SV Alera C&C 37+/40 Vashon Island WA (206) 463-9200 www.sv-alera.com __ _ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurr ay ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Adjustable Genoa Cars, 1994 C&C 37/40+
Darn. Already sold. Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" Cc: Bruce Whitmore Sent: Wednesday, December 20, 2017 8:46 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Adjustable Genoa Cars, 1994 C&C 37/40+ Great idea Ken! Thank you very much. I had totally forgotten about "The Third Wave". I have reached out to Eric. This list is worth every bit of my donation - and more! Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: Ken Heaton via CnC-List To: cnc-list Cc: Ken Heaton ; Tom Buscaglia Sent: Wednesday, December 20, 2017 5:18 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Adjustable Genoa Cars, 1994 C&C 37/40+ So it looks like Bruce has Lewmar Size 2 Track? 30 mm wide? https://www.lewmar.com/node/ 18461?v=26011 https://www.lewmar.com/store? field_category[]=7&field_ hardware_type[]=173&field_ product_range[]=228&field_ product_range[]=208&field_ boat_type[]=11&lf=0<=4&f=1& o=d https://www.lewmar.com/store? field_category[]=7&field_ hardware_type[]=173&field_ product_range[]=228&field_car_ type[]=281&lf=0<=4&f=1&o=d Bruce, by any chance, did you get in touch with Shining Waters Marine, who recently scrapped C&C 37R Hull No. 4, "The Third Wave" to see what make of Genoa Track hardware was on her? You may be able to get a good deal if it that boat had what you need to put this together. eric.sm...@shiningwaters.ca Ken Heaton On 19 December 2017 at 22:20, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List wrote: Yep, those are Lewmar tracks Here's the car, but no idea where the rest of it is https://www.lewmar.com/node/14 629?v=27113 At 04:44 PM 12/19/2017, you wrote: Message: 4 Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2017 19:43:22 -0500 From: Eric Baumes To: cnc-list Subject: Re: Stus-List Adjustable Genoa Cars, 1994 C&C 37/40+ Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" I think they are Lewmars. My '93 34+ has a lot of Lewmar stuff,traveller, blocks, etc. Eric .¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸, ¤º°`°º¤. Tom & Lynn Buscaglia SV Alera C&C 37+/40 Vashon Island WA (206) 463-9200 www.sv-alera.com __ _ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurr ay ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List adjustable cars
Hi Barry, You are spot on with your thoughts - I don't race, but I do like to daysail and cruise for speed. I also like the idea of being able to spill wind out the top and/or adjust the car after reefing the headsail. That said, it's not worth $1,000 to me. So, when I thought I could get them from Garhauer, I was thrilled. Now that I'm having to look at Lewmar (Eric had already sold the ones from the 37R), at over $900, the blush is coming off the rose. It's the balance we must have between what we want vs. what we'll get... Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: Barry Lenoble via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Barry Lenoble Sent: Wednesday, December 20, 2017 9:08 AM Subject: Stus-List adjustable cars Hey, If you don't race, I question need for line adjustable cars. The boat I race on has them, and they work well. We have three headsails to pick from, and not all courses are windward / leeward, so we do adjust the cars during the race. I don't race my boat (that seriously anyway) and I don't have line adjustable cars. I have a single headsail, and the cars stay in one position about 90% of the time. If I could upgrade to line adjustable cars for a low price (say under $400) I would. However, if the price is going to be over $1000 I question the value the adjustable cars provide. -Do you have multiple headsails? Do you change them frequently? Do you have roller furling / reefing and frequently sail with the genoa reefed? If the answer to those questions is yes then you would probably benefit from the line adjustable cars. If not, then my suggestion is to just forget it. Good luck, Barry Barry Lenoble leno...@optonline.net Deep Blue C, C&C 110 Mt. Sinai, NY On 19 December 2017 at 16:34, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: Hello all, I was wondering if you folks might be able to give me some guidance. I ordered adjustable Genoa track cars from Garhauer, and even sent them a photo of the track. When they got here, the cars won't fit - they will not even slide over the track. I sent new photos to Garhauer, and Guido looked at them and informed me that not only do they not make adjustable cars that fit, they can't even custom make them. Have you folks obtained adjustable cars, and if so, from where? Bruce Whitmore 1994 C&C 37/40+, "Astralis" (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net<mailto:bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net> ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Adjustable Genoa Cars, 1994 C&C 37/40+
Thanks Charlie - a very helpful description. I'd love a photo, and I thoroughly understand the timing. Love this list! :) Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: cenel...@aol.com Sent: Wednesday, December 20, 2017 4:06 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Adjustable Genoa Cars, 1994 C&C 37/40+ Hey Bruce; Be glad to send pictures but I won't be at the boat until after the holidays--racing on Jan 6 and will be there to prep boat and take pictures on the 5th at the latest. The main caveat I would throw-up is I don't think the internal blocks in the Lewmar cars are ball bearing types--maybe just a nylon/delrin sleeve--but I may be 'mis-remembering'--its been a while since I looked at them. The tracks have end caps on them in my version. I used one of the end cap screws (that attach the caps to the track) to fasten a sturdy SS eye-strapto each cap. This was necessary since the original purchase was not enough to move the cars under load and I needed a sturdy place to mount these additional blocks.Also since the attaching machine screw goes through strap and the cap and screws into the track, it is extremely sturdy. This also avoids relying on the internalLewmar car blocks for purchase--only for attachment. IIRC, I have a pair of 3 in 1 blocks on each track (4 total), each attached to the SS eye-strap. The 3/16 or 1/4 inch control line is reeved thru them, I think 5 or 6:1to car on one end and to the cockpit thru a turning block past the aft end of the tracks up to a cam-cleat mounted on the side of the outside cockpit coaming. This allows adjustment from the cockpit to move the car forward. With any breeze, even with my purchase, the headsail usually will drive the car aft without assistance. Of course, there is a lot of control line laying on the deck with a 5 or 6:1 purchase which can be a PITA if the trimmer is not careful--this loose line can get tangled or otherwisejam up the system when racing. Otherwise, it just takes a little care to avoid this, especially when adjusting the car forward for off the wind. Will send photon in January. Charlie Nelson cenel...@aol.com -Original Message- From: bwhitmore via CnC-List To: cnc-list Cc: bwhitmore Sent: Wed, Dec 20, 2017 12:25 pm Subject: Re: Stus-List Adjustable Genoa Cars, 1994 C&C 37/40+ Hi Charlie, Any chance you have a photo of your setup you can post/send? Thanks! Bruce Whitmore Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone Original message From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List Date: 12/20/17 10:59 AM (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: cenel...@aol.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Adjustable Genoa Cars, 1994 C&C 37/40+ That looks like a standard low-profile Lewmar track/car and it looks like it has the internal blocks to make it adjustable. Add a suitable block on the fore and aft ends of the track, run a line appropriately and eventually to the cockpit and you have adjustable cars. Mind that you face the choice of easy adjustment (lot of purchase and line--say 6:1) or more difficult adjustment (less purchase and line say 3:1). Except for the blocks at the track ends, I don't see that you need new cars. The adjustable cars on my boat look identical to yours--all I did was add more purchase with blocks at the end of the track. Charlie Nelson1995 C&C 36XL/kcbWater Phantom cenel...@aol.com -----Original Message- From: Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List To: cnc-list Cc: Bruce Whitmore Sent: Tue, Dec 19, 2017 5:42 pm Subject: Re: Stus-List Adjustable Genoa Cars, 1994 C&C 37/40+ Here is a photo of the car: https://www.dropbox.com/s/d7xjokgr6ndss8u/Track%20Car.jpg?dl=0 Here is a photo of the end of the track: https://www.dropbox.com/s/hj5gygo52qf25p9/Track%20Photo%20%231.jpg?dl=0 And here is a photo of the track: https://www.dropbox.com/s/80aoxpg4igj3pmv/Track%20Photo%20%233.jpg?dl=0 Can anyone here suggest a solution for retrofitting adjustable cars to this track? Garhauer was only $430 for the full kit (both sides), but the cars don't fit the track, and they say they can't match it. Have any of you had luck with getting Garhauer to make a car to match this track? I really don't want to spend more than twice the Garhauer price. I'm not going to race, and I need $1,000 more than I need adjustable cars... Thanks! Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciate
Re: Stus-List Mast step
Hi Josh, I have no experience with this whatsoever, but please be so kind as to keep me abreast of your work, as I have the same boat. In hindsight, is there a way to determine the condition of the step without pulling the mast? Thanks! Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List To: C&C List Cc: Josh Muckley Sent: Tuesday, January 2, 2018 2:48 PM Subject: Stus-List Mast step Ok Guys, I've had the mast pulled for a complete refit and to the best of my ability to observe, it appears that the step has never been removed. It looks terrible and horribly corroded. It is aluminum and I'm not sure that the 30 years of corrosion has necessarily compromised the beam but since I have access I'd like to at least get it repainted. It seems that the inner skin of the sub-floor was placed on top of the stringers (and step) with no thought given to the possibility of needing to remove the step in the future. I expected that a magical combination of tilting, twisting, or rolling would do the trick but alas it seems that cutting a portion of the subfloor is the only answer. I'd intend to use and oscillating saw to make the necessary cuts. These cuts would be roughly the width of the mast step and the depth necessary to make the sub-floor flush with the stringer. This would allow tilting the step out. Hard to describe, but has anyone had a similar experience and solution? Thanks, Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk1989 C&C 37+Solomons, MD ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Small lead weight "sewn" into anchor rode?
Hello all, On both of my old anchor rodes, there is a small (6 oz or so) lead weight with a line through the middle, with the line on both ends woven into the rode so that the weight stays held up against the line in place. On one line, the weight is about 10 feet from the end connected to the chain. On the other one, it is more like 20 feet. What would be the purpose of these small weights? Thanks for the insight, Bruce Whitmore 1994 C&C 37/40+, "Astralis"Madiera Beach, FL (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Stopping leaks through pedestal guard feet?
Hello all, We have a 1994 C&C 37/40+, and we are replacing the stern and v berth mattress foam and fabric. I have noticed a very small leak which is coming from the starboard pedestal guard foot, where the bolts and wires penetrate the cockpit floor. We have stopped the vast majority of the leak by applying a small layer of aluminum duct tape at the point where the stainless tubing penetrates the stainless foot. There is a hard plastic spacer that fills the gap between the tube & the foot, but it doesn't seem to be made of the proper material to be properly water resistant. So, I expect this leaves us with water coming in under the foot itself, where it is bolted through the floor of the cockpit itself (which is finished with teak). What would you suggest as to the best way to seal this? The leak we get is coming down over the stern berth, and I sure don't want leaks staining our new fabric! I am thinking about loosening the feet & lifting up the pedestal guard, and applying butyl rubber to the bottom. If that works, great. But, how would I also more permanently stop water ingress due to water finding its way between the tube and the foot? Thanks for your ideas! Bruce Whitmore Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Stopping leaks through pedestal guard feet?
Hi Josh, Here's a link to the exterior view of the pedestal guard feet. https://www.dropbox.com/s/pxc37iifz7eo596/Pedestal%20Guard%20Feet.jpg?dl=0 You can see the tape which is currently keeping out most of the water. I suspect the remaining water is getting in between the foot and the teak deck. I believe the leak currently in only on the starboard foot, as that is the only one with a hole for wires. This is making its way below, dripping onto the head area of the stern berth. Make sense? What would be the best way to caulk/seal this, including the tube/foot joint? Thanks! Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Josh Muckley Sent: Monday, January 15, 2018 7:06 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Stopping leaks through pedestal guard feet? Bruce, Are you saying that the wires come through the pedestal guard tube? And exit through the deck via the gaurd tube foot? A picture might help. Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk1989 C&C 37+Solomons, MD On Mon, Jan 15, 2018, 5:02 PM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List wrote: Hello all, We have a 1994 C&C 37/40+, and we are replacing the stern and v berth mattress foam and fabric. I have noticed a very small leak which is coming from the starboard pedestal guard foot, where the bolts and wires penetrate the cockpit floor. We have stopped the vast majority of the leak by applying a small layer of aluminum duct tape at the point where the stainless tubing penetrates the stainless foot. There is a hard plastic spacer that fills the gap between the tube & the foot, but it doesn't seem to be made of the proper material to be properly water resistant. So, I expect this leaves us with water coming in under the foot itself, where it is bolted through the floor of the cockpit itself (which is finished with teak). What would you suggest as to the best way to seal this? The leak we get is coming down over the stern berth, and I sure don't want leaks staining our new fabric! I am thinking about loosening the feet & lifting up the pedestal guard, and applying butyl rubber to the bottom. If that works, great. But, how would I also more permanently stop water ingress due to water finding its way between the tube and the foot? Thanks for your ideas! Bruce Whitmore Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Tell me about the 35 MKIII-CB
Here's my take on the centerboard: We generally drop the board as soon as we are in deep enough water to ensure we won't touch bottom. Here in West Florida, touching bottom is a real and present danger as you go in & out of harbors, and even in the intracoastal. To have anything more than 5' of draft here is far less than ideal, and will limit your harbor choices. Our centerboard is very heavy, and not only requires the winch to raise it, but the low-speed function is needed as it reaches the top of the board travel. Our harbor fouls bottoms pretty quickly, but our board has never been stuck. That said, the boat sat for =/- 7 years with very limited use in Marco Island before we bought her, and we had to pry the centerboard down a little during the survey. Our biggest concern is that of cable maintenance (which so far we have no real experience with), and braking the cable, which could result in centerboard damage or the inability to return to our dock until such time as we found a way to pull it up with other lines & winches, which given the shape of our board might prove problematic. Finally, she points like crazy with the board down! That said, little of this may apply to your prospect boat... Bruce Whitmore 1994 C&C 37/40+, "Astralis", Madiera Beach, FL (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: jackbrennan via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: jackbrennan Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2018 6:11 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Tell me about the 35 MKIII-CB You'll love the shallow draft in Florida. It opens the possibility of great cruising that would be blocked to you with a 6-foot draft. It's increasingly common for centerboard owners to replace the ss cable and Nicropress fitting with Amsteel Blue or a similar high-tech line of the same diameter. On my current boat (not a C&C), I used an Amsteel Blue line for seven years on the CB before replacing it in June. The rigger said I wasted my money; the line was like brand-new. The line is secured to the CB by making an eye and putting a few wraps through it. The tricky part is taping the line to the cable and easing it through. Jack BrennanFormer C&C 25Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30Tierra Verde, Fl. Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO Original message From: Sean Richardson via CnC-List Date:01/16/2018 1:37 PM (GMT-05:00) To: CnC-List Cc: Sean Richardson Subject: Stus-List Tell me about the 35 MKIII-CB Calling on the collective C&C brain trust! I’m giving serious consideration to a 35 MKIII CB and wouldappreciate any advice on what to look out for with the MKIII in general as wellspecifics of the center board version if anyone has any. The boat is single owner freshwater and by all accounts sofar appears to be in very good condition. She checks off many of therequirement boxes for our next boat but I’m a little torn on the CB with mainconcerns being how it effects performance/stability as well as requiredmaintenance. I’ve heard the center board version is quite tender. Weeventually plan to sail out the St. Lawrence to the Maritimes one summer, parkthe boat, then return the following season to continue on down the US Eastcoast (ICW) to Florida then on to the Bahamas. The board up shallow draft willbe good for the ICW and Bahamas portion but how would this boat fare in themore challenging conditions of the St Lawrence and Maritimes? My other concern is access to the centerboard area for maintenance. I would assume the slot and pivot area willrequire frequent attention to clean marine growth and avoid jamming the boardin either the up or down position. And how difficult would it be if one had toreplace the SS lifting strop with the boat in the water? The more I think about the center board the more troubles Isee down the road.___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Centerboard cable replacement process?
Hello all, OK, so with all the talk about centerboard models, and now replacement of the cable itself, what is the process specific to a 37/40+? The cable attachment at the keel seems a bit difficult to get to, as when we hauled the boat for survey, the board was down, but the cable attachment did not stick out below the bottom of the hull. There is a cable stop up on deck to keep the board from going all the way down, and there is a slot in that, and presumably that might allow you to work with the cable to let the board all the way down and perhaps get access to the centerboard attachment? Then what? Cut the cable at the keel point, attach a messenger, and pull the cable out for measuring? What does the attachment at the keel look like? Anyone have any photos? Thanks in advance! Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?
Hello all, OK, I think I have a weird thing going here... I have adjusted the wheel to center the turks head knot straight up when the wheel is centered. I got it all nice & straight a few weeks ago, and came back to the boat to find it about 20 degrees off to port. By the way, were talking about 20% off on the wheel, not 20% of rudder. After installing my autopilot, I again adjusted it, this time getting the cables set to approximately the same amount of adjustment on each side to the adjustment bolts through the radial drive wheel. This required jumping the chain 1 or 2 notches on the wheel sprocket. All was well for a couple weeks, and behold, on Saturday I went back only to find the turks head knot about 20 degrees to starboard. During these adjustments, I have made a point to keep the cable deflection adjusted to be relatively minimal (say 1/2" or so?), without getting so tight as to reduce the feel of the wheel. I've notice no issues whatsoever when we're out sailing. During the first set of adjustments, I noticed the idler wheel bolts were a little loose, and tightened those. Considering the radial wheel bolts connect to each end of the cable, and the cables attach to the chain, I can only think the chain is somehow jumping on the sprocket. Thoughts? Bruce Whitmore 1994 C&C 37/40+, "Astralis"Madiera Beach, FL (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?
Per Chuck's previous comments, the radial wheel has a keyway and key, so I don't think it can slip. Similarly, the helm wheel has a keyway and key. I've tightened the idler pully plate bolts, but I suspect there is rust going on under there, which will mean a full disassembly. Sigh... Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: Michael Brown via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Michael Brown Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 11:06 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links? If the radial wheel was slipping on the rudder post it could cause that issue. Maybe use a sharpie and put a line down the rudder post and onto the radial wheel. 20º is not much movement, you may require a fine line. Michael Brown Windburn C&C 30-1 Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2018 01:54:12 + (UTC) From: Bruce Whitmore Hello all, OK, I think I have a weird thing going here... I have adjusted the wheel to center the turks head knot straight up when the wheel is centered.? I got it all nice & straight a few weeks ago, and came back to the boat to find it about 20 degrees off to port.? By the way, were talking about 20% off on the wheel, not 20% of rudder. ? After installing my autopilot, I again adjusted it, this time getting the cables set to approximately the same amount of adjustment on each side to the adjustment bolts through the radial drive wheel.? This required jumping the chain 1 or 2 notches on the wheel sprocket. All was well for a couple weeks, and behold, on Saturday I went back only to find the turks head knot about 20 degrees to starboard.? During these adjustments, I have made a point to keep the cable deflection adjusted to be relatively minimal (say 1/2" or so?), without getting so tight as to reduce the feel of the wheel.? I've notice no issues whatsoever when we're out sailing. During the first set of adjustments, I noticed the idler wheel bolts were a little loose, and tightened those.? Considering the radial wheel bolts connect to each end of the cable, and the cables attach to the chain, I can only think the chain is somehow jumping on the sprocket. Thoughts? Bruce Whitmore 1994 C&C 37/40+, "Astralis"Madiera Beach, FL (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?
And weirdly, the steering is very precise, with no sloppiness underway, and it happens when we're OFF the boat! On a side note, when we leave the boat, I tie off the wheel just in case there is more current than the wheel brake can control. This is done to keep the wheel from turning to the stops, and to prevent wheel brake wear. Our slip is in shallow water, and though we have never noticed the rudder touching bottom when we sleep on the boat, the keel stub will touch during low tides. Thankfully, we have a soft sand bottom. Maybe the boat settles at low tide or a current comes by, pushes the rudder against the line ties, causes slack in the chain/wire rope, causing the chain to jump? I have not tried to look at how slack the cable becomes when I hit the rudder stop. The rust, however will have to be dealt with sooner rather than later... Any further thoughts would be appreciated. Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List To: C&C List Cc: Josh Muckley Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 11:20 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links? I can pretty much assure you that there is rust. What I can't explain is why the problem comes and goes and at such a prescribed amount. The detrimental rust would also likely cause a looseness in the wheel and cables which would be quite perceptible. Josh On Jan 24, 2018 11:12 AM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List" wrote: Per Chuck's previous comments, the radial wheel has a keyway and key, so I don't think it can slip. Similarly, the helm wheel has a keyway and key. I've tightened the idler pully plate bolts, but I suspect there is rust going on under there, which will mean a full disassembly. Sigh... Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: Michael Brown via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Michael Brown Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 11:06 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links? If the radial wheel was slipping on the rudder post it could cause that issue. Maybe use a sharpie and put a line down the rudder post and onto the radial wheel. 20º is not much movement, you may require a fine line. Michael Brown Windburn C&C 30-1 Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2018 01:54:12 + (UTC) From: Bruce Whitmore Hello all, OK, I think I have a weird thing going here... I have adjusted the wheel to center the turks head knot straight up when the wheel is centered.? I got it all nice & straight a few weeks ago, and came back to the boat to find it about 20 degrees off to port.? By the way, were talking about 20% off on the wheel, not 20% of rudder. ? After installing my autopilot, I again adjusted it, this time getting the cables set to approximately the same amount of adjustment on each side to the adjustment bolts through the radial drive wheel.? This required jumping the chain 1 or 2 notches on the wheel sprocket. All was well for a couple weeks, and behold, on Saturday I went back only to find the turks head knot about 20 degrees to starboard.? During these adjustments, I have made a point to keep the cable deflection adjusted to be relatively minimal (say 1/2" or so?), without getting so tight as to reduce the feel of the wheel.? I've notice no issues whatsoever when we're out sailing. During the first set of adjustments, I noticed the idler wheel bolts were a little loose, and tightened those.? Considering the radial wheel bolts connect to each end of the cable, and the cables attach to the chain, I can only think the chain is somehow jumping on the sprocket. Thoughts? Bruce Whitmore 1994 C&C 37/40+, "Astralis"Madiera Beach, FL (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net __ _ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/ stumurray __ _ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/ stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?
Hi Chuck,
You're right as to the amount of wheel travel, and what that would do to
steering if I turn it that much when out sailing. I also agree as to the
keyway, and to Michael's comment, the key is in place and intact, as I removed
the radial plate for inspection. On the C&C 37/40+, the idler pulleys are not
below deck, they fit in a very small space I can access after taking out a
removable triangular panel in the cockpit. So, the parts won't drop down into
the bilge, but it would still be a bad outcome. :(
I'll have to figure out how hard it is to remove the assembly entirely. I'm
not sure currently if the bolts penetrate all the way down below deck, or are
accessible once I remove the panel behind the wheel.
You can kind of get an idea by looking at the picture here:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/pxc37iifz7eo596/Pedestal%20Guard%20Feet.jpg?dl=0
847-404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chuck Gilchrest
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 12:38 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?
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{}#yiv2637076606 Michael,A 20 degree deviation on wheel centering is an AWFUL
lot of wheel travel with no explanation. I suspect Bruce’s boat has a 44”
diameter wheel which means at 20 degrees of travel, the Turk’s head knot would
have moved roughly 7 ½” to one side or the other. Generally speaking, if my
hand moves the wheel that much, the boat changes course dramatically, even with
a big wheel.Most C&C Yachts had radial drives that are held in place on the
rudder shaft by an interference fit of the two halves of the radial, machined
undersized by .003” for a machinist clamping tolerance and then a keyway is cut
in the radial drive to accommodate a stainless key that locks the drive wheel
in place on the rudder. Generally, even if the boat is run aground on the
rudder, the radial drive wheel or rudder post may bend, but it won’t slip on
the post unless it is not clamped tightly at the hub of the wheel.I too suspect
a weakened idler assembly that is allowing the idlers to pivot after
tensioning. The next step is the idler wheel letting go and dropping various
bits into to the bilge whilst the cable goes completely slack. Boat handling
suffers when this happens..Chuck GilchrestHalf Magic1983 Landfall 35Padanaram,
MA From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
Michael Brown via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 11:09 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Michael Brown
Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links? If the radial wheel
was slipping on the rudder post it could cause that issue.
Maybe use a sharpie and put a line down the rudder post and onto the radial
wheel.
20º is not much movement, you may require a fine line.
Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2018 01:54:12 + (UTC)
From: Bruce Whitmore
Hello all,
OK, I think I have a weird thing going here...
I have adjusted the wheel to center the turks head knot straight up when the
wheel is centered.? I got it all nice & straight a few weeks ago, and came back
to the boat to find it about 20 degrees off to port.? By the way, were talking
about 20% off on the wheel, not 20% of rudder. ? After installing my autopilot,
I again adjusted it, this time getting the cables set to approximately the same
amount of adjustment on each side to the adjustment bolts through the radial
drive wheel.? This required jumping the chain 1 or 2 notches on the wheel
sprocket.
All was well for a couple weeks, and behold, on Saturday I went back only to
find the turks head knot about 20 degrees to starboard.? During these
adjustments, I have made a point to keep the cable deflection adjusted to be
relatively minimal (say 1/2" or so?), without getting so tight as to reduce the
feel of the wheel.? I've notice no issues whatsoever when we're out sailing.
During the first s
Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?
I have had the pedestal partially apart, in that I replaced the brake pads and lubed the chain. I also got it far enough apart to jump the chain links for the purposes of realigning the wheel. I have not taken the chain off entirely. If, in fact the bolts thread into a deck fitting rather than having to work with nuts on the backside, that would make things MUCH easier. Interestingly, there was some commentary about how there were "wheels" replaced in the steering system before I bought the boat, but that was not documented, so I kind of disregarded it at the time. I'd sure like it if I didn't have to deal with parts that are no longer manufactured! Any available documentation about the process on my particular boat would be extremely helpful! Bruce Whitmore 1994 C&C 37/40+, "Astralis" (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?
The turks head wraps across a spoke, so no, it can't be moved.
good thought though
Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
From: "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List"
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
Cc: "Hoyt, Mike"
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 2:35 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?
#yiv4571028736 #yiv4571028736 -- _filtered #yiv4571028736
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1.0in;}#yiv4571028736 div.yiv4571028736WordSection1 {}#yiv4571028736 Any chance
that the Turks Head is moving? .. or that someone is not moving it just for
fun? From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Bruce
Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 12:39 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links? And weirdly, the
steering is very precise, with no sloppiness underway, and it happens when
we're OFF the boat! On a side note, when we leave the boat, I tie off the
wheel just in case there is more current than the wheel brake can control.
This is done to keep the wheel from turning to the stops, and to prevent wheel
brake wear. Our slip is in shallow water, and though we have never noticed the
rudder touching bottom when we sleep on the boat, the keel stub will touch
during low tides. Thankfully, we have a soft sand bottom. Maybe the boat
settles at low tide or a current comes by, pushes the rudder against the line
ties, causes slack in the chain/wire rope, causing the chain to jump? I have
not tried to look at how slack the cable becomes when I hit the rudder stop.
The rust, however will have to be dealt with sooner rather than later... Any
further thoughts would be appreciated. Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List
To: C&C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 11:20 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links? I can pretty much
assure you that there is rust. What I can't explain is why the problem comes
and goes and at such a prescribed amount. The detrimental rust would also
likely cause a looseness in the wheel and cables which would be quite
perceptible. Josh On Jan 24, 2018 11:12 AM, "Bruce Whitmore via
CnC-List" wrote: Per Chuck's previous comments, the
radial wheel has a keyway and key, so I don't think it can slip. Similarly,
the helm wheel has a keyway and key. I've tightened the idler pully plate
bolts, but I suspect there is rust going on under there, which will mean a full
disassembly. Sigh... Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: Michael Brown via CnC-List
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Michael Brown
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 11:06 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links? If the radial wheel
was slipping on the rudder post it could cause that issue.
Maybe use a sharpie and put a line down the rudder post and onto the radial
wheel.
20º is not much movement, you may require a fine line.
Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2018 01:54:12 + (UTC)
From: Bruce Whitmore
Hello all,
OK, I think I have a weird thing going here...
I have adjusted the wheel to center the turks head knot straight up when the
wheel is centered.? I got it all nice & straight a few weeks ago, and came back
to the boat to find it about 20 degrees off to port.? By the way, were talking
about 20% off on the wheel, not 20% of rudder. ? After installing my autopilot,
I again adjusted it, this time getting the cables set to approximately the same
amount of adjustment on each side to the adjustment bolts through the radial
drive wheel.? This required jumping the chain 1 or 2 notches on the wheel
sproc
Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?
Whoa! That might be it! Not someone messing with me - I've been having the teak refinished, and the wheel had been removed for that work and was laying on the cabin top. So, I could have easily put it on the "wrong" side out. If that's it, I can breath much easier! That could also account for the first time it was "off" after initial adjustment... I'll still need to check for rust on the plate, but that gives me immediate breathing room. If you're right, I owe another $50 to Stu! Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: Dennis C. via CnC-List To: CnClist Cc: Dennis C. Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 5:00 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links? If I take the wheel off and rotate it 180 degrees, does that create the same deviation? I routinely change between my 32 inch (cruising) and 36 inch (racing) wheels. If I don't put the wheel on with the correct side forward, it is always off a spoke or so. Could someone be messing with you? Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA On Jan 24, 2018 12:40 PM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List" wrote: The turks head wraps across a spoke, so no, it can't be moved. good thought though Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List" To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" Cc: "Hoyt, Mike" Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 2:35 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links? Any chance that the Turks Head is moving? .. or that someone is not moving it just for fun? From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-bounces@cnc- list.com]On Behalf Of Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 12:39 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Bruce Whitmore Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links? And weirdly, the steering is very precise, with no sloppiness underway, and it happens when we're OFF the boat! On a side note, when we leave the boat, I tie off the wheel just in case there is more current than the wheel brake can control. This is done to keep the wheel from turning to the stops, and to prevent wheel brake wear. Our slip is in shallow water, and though we have never noticed the rudder touching bottom when we sleep on the boat, the keel stub will touch during low tides. Thankfully, we have a soft sand bottom. Maybe the boat settles at low tide or a current comes by, pushes the rudder against the line ties, causes slack in the chain/wire rope, causing the chain to jump? I have not tried to look at how slack the cable becomes when I hit the rudder stop. The rust, however will have to be dealt with sooner rather than later... Any further thoughts would be appreciated. Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List To: C&C List Cc: Josh Muckley Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 11:20 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links? I can pretty much assure you that there is rust. What I can't explain is why the problem comes and goes and at such a prescribed amount. The detrimental rust would also likely cause a looseness in the wheel and cables which would be quite perceptible. Josh On Jan 24, 2018 11:12 AM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List" wrote: Per Chuck's previous comments, the radial wheel has a keyway and key, so I don't think it can slip. Similarly, the helm wheel has a keyway and key. I've tightened the idler pully plate bolts, but I suspect there is rust going on under there, which will mean a full disassembly. Sigh... Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: Michael Brown via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Michael Brown Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 11:06 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links? If the radial wheel was slipping on the rudder post it could cause that issue. Maybe use a sharpie and put a line down the rudder post and onto the radial wheel. 20º is not much movement, you may require a fine line. Michael Brown Windburn C&C 30-1 Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2018 01:54:12 + (UTC) From: Bruce Whitmore Hello all, OK, I think I have a weird thing going here... I have adjusted the wheel to center the turks head knot straight up when the wheel is centered.? I got it all nice & straight a few weeks ago, and came back to the boat to find it about 20 degrees off to port.? By the way, were talking about 20% off on the wheel, not 20% of rudder. ? After installing my autopilot, I again adjusted it, this time getting the cables set to approximately the same amount of adjustment on each side to the adjustment bolts through the radial drive wheel.? This required jumping the chain 1 or 2 notches on the wheel sprocket. All was well for a couple weeks, and behol
Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?
That even makes sense from a logical perspective. The knot does not line up
vertically with the keyway in the wheel & center hub. So, if one has it lined
up on one side, and then you take the wheel off and install it from the other
direction, viola! It's way off!
Ugh. And to think I'd be taking all apart thinking I had a major issue - How
long would I have been chasing that gremlin? :0
Now to verify the symptoms...
Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
From: Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 6:35 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?
Whoa! That might be it!
Not someone messing with me - I've been having the teak refinished, and the
wheel had been removed for that work and was laying on the cabin top. So, I
could have easily put it on the "wrong" side out.
If that's it, I can breath much easier!
That could also account for the first time it was "off" after initial
adjustment...
I'll still need to check for rust on the plate, but that gives me immediate
breathing room.
If you're right, I owe another $50 to Stu! Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
From: Dennis C. via CnC-List
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 5:00 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?
If I take the wheel off and rotate it 180 degrees, does that create the same
deviation? I routinely change between my 32 inch (cruising) and 36 inch
(racing) wheels. If I don't put the wheel on with the correct side forward, it
is always off a spoke or so.
Could someone be messing with you?
Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA
On Jan 24, 2018 12:40 PM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List"
wrote:
The turks head wraps across a spoke, so no, it can't be moved.
good thought though
Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
From: "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List"
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
Cc: "Hoyt, Mike"
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 2:35 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?
Any chance that the Turks Head is moving? .. or that someone is not moving
it just for fun? From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-bounces@cnc- list.com]On
Behalf Of Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 12:39 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links? And weirdly, the
steering is very precise, with no sloppiness underway, and it happens when
we're OFF the boat! On a side note, when we leave the boat, I tie off the
wheel just in case there is more current than the wheel brake can control.
This is done to keep the wheel from turning to the stops, and to prevent wheel
brake wear. Our slip is in shallow water, and though we have never noticed the
rudder touching bottom when we sleep on the boat, the keel stub will touch
during low tides. Thankfully, we have a soft sand bottom. Maybe the boat
settles at low tide or a current comes by, pushes the rudder against the line
ties, causes slack in the chain/wire rope, causing the chain to jump? I have
not tried to look at how slack the cable becomes when I hit the rudder stop.
The rust, however will have to be dealt with sooner rather than later... Any
further thoughts would be appreciated. Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List
To: C&C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 11:20 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links? I can pretty much
assure you that there is rust. What I can't explain is why the problem comes
and goes and at such a prescribed amount. The detrimental rust would also
likely cause a looseness in the wheel and cables which would be quite
perceptible. Josh On Jan 24, 2018 11:12 AM, "Bruce Whitmore via
CnC-List" wrote: Per Chuck's previous comments, the
radial wheel has a keyway and key, so I don't think it can slip. Similarly,
the helm wheel has a keyway and key. I've tightened the idler pully plate
bolts, but I suspect there is rust going on under there, which will mean a full
disassembly. Sigh... Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: Michael Brown via CnC-List
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Michael Brown
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 11:06 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links? If the radial wheel
was slipping on the rudder post it could cause that issue.
Maybe use a sharpie and put a line down the rudder post and onto the radial
wheel.
20º is not much movement, you may require a fine line.
Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1
Date: Wed, 24 Jan 201
Re: Stus-List Boat Insurance
I recently moved from Novamar (brokerage recommended by my broker) to Boat U.S. I have had excellent experience with Boat U.S. over the last 20 years, and after Hurricane Irma got us concerned last year, I vowed to re-shop the insurance this year and go with a more "known" market. Boat U.S. was previously covered through CNA, but now is Geico due to the ownership by Warren Buffett. However, if my memory serves me correctly, it is Boat U.S. who drives the policy language and claims settlement procedures. Not only that, I consider the A.M. Best rating of the carrier, as I'm in the business. In the end, Boat U.S. was less expensive than the quote from my expiring carrier, and given the combination of the Best rating and my experience with their claims staff, I stopped looking elsewhere. By the way, I stopped by a couple insurance brokers' booths at the St. Pete boat show, and gave them opportunities to quote. They were not competitive. All this being said, marine insurance, like many other types, is greatly impacted by location, value of the boat, year of the boat, etc. I know some brokers that won't even consider quoting until the boat exceeds $10 Million in value. There are also lots of companies that don't want hurricane exposure, stay away from Florida, etc. So, no one solution will work for everyone. Yet, knowing about all the potential alternatives is a great thing, and kudos go to the list for that! Kindest Regards, Bruce Whitmore1994 C&C 37/40+, "Astralis"Madiera Beach, FL bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Matthew L. Wolford Sent: Monday, February 5, 2018 1:45 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat Insurance I assume you saw my e-mail note over the weekend where I went through GEICO’s on-line quote process. In my case, in 2017 I paid a $1040 annual premium versus a $523 on-line quote for the same or better coverage (and slightly higher hull value). All you did was remind me about the call I planned to make. Besides, I’m not going to rat you out. From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List Sent: Monday, February 05, 2018 1:26 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Frederick G Street Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat Insurance Once Geico finds out I started an avalanche, they’re going to raise my rates again… — Fred Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( On Feb 5, 2018, at 12:16 PM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List wrote: Well done, Fred. On the phone now. From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List Sent: Monday, February 05, 2018 11:51 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Frederick G Street Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat Insurance I’ve been on the phone with Geico Marine this morning, trying to get a straight answer as to why the premium for my current policy (rolled over from BoatUS) is nearly 50% higher than a quote I got online over the weekend with the same deductibles and coverage. This is on an agreed hull value of $50,000 (yes, I know that’s really high for my boat, but I haven’t seen any reason to change it…), with 1% deductible and $500,000 of liability; and covers sailing on the Great Lakes and tributaries. My BoatUS premium was a little under $700.00; when it moved to Geico it went up to $852.00. The quote I got online was for $571.00. In my initial conversation this morning, the agent on the phone said that my renewal coming in March was going to be less than last year; somewhere in the $750.00 range. She said that I could go ahead and get insurance at the online quoted rate, but I would need to get a survey done before they’d cover me on a new policy. After talking at length with an underwriter and reviewing my policy, the agent just called back: my renewal in March will cost $494.00. I guess it pays to be the squeaky wheel sometimes… — Fred Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Source for LDP Water Tank Inspection Port Caps & O-Rings?
Hello all, I have a water tank inspection cap that is leaking when the tank is full, and the DPO thought it a good idea to apply silicone sealer to all the o-rings on all 5 caps> He also applied silicone sealer to nearly every exterior nut, bolt and screw, but that's another story. Ugh... Here's some links to a couple photos: https://www.dropbox.com/s/c7rcwh7wfwm9nne/Cap%20for%20LDP%20Water%20Tank%203.jpg?dl=0https://www.dropbox.com/s/rj310g6xy9nozh1/Cap%20for%20LDP%20Water%20Tank%202.jpg?dl=0 Anyone know a source where I can find these caps and their o-rings? Thank you! Bruce Whitmore 1994 C&C 37/40+ "Astralis"Madiera Beach, FL (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Recent discussion regarding Federal v. State Boat Documentation
Hello All, Given the discussion that came up the other day regarding boat documentation, you may want to see the link below posted by Boat U.S. Boat Documentation Requirements - BoatUS Graphics | | | | || | | | | | Boat Documentation Requirements - BoatUS Graphics Find all boat documentation requirements whether your boat is state or federally documented. | | | | While not authoritative in & of itself, it might cause local law enforcement to pause and rethink if they ever pull you over because you don't have state numbers displayed on your boat. At least in Florida, this does not eliminate the need to display the state registration sticker. Hoping you find this helpful, Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Restarting Thread - Insurance: SHAME on Boat U.S./Geico!
Hello all, First, thanks to Eric for pointing out a CRITICAL provision in the new Boat U.S. policies now issued by Geico. I read my new policy (which has only been in force since February 2nd) and found the following provision: "We will pay the reasonable cost of repairs and replacements, in accordance with quality marine repair practice, less depreciation (emphasis added). Depreciation shall be calculated at 10% for each year beginning with the 20th year from manufacture. In all cases, there shall remain no less than 20% residual value regardless of age." I then researched all the information provided during the quoting process. This was not disclosed. I then called Boat U.S., and they agreed they had not informed me of this provision, and then offered me (for an upcharge of $64), an endorsement that would take away the depreciation provision, but only for the hull, mast, spars, railings, but not much more. They do not normally offer this endorsement unless the boat is less than 10 years old (So what's the value in that?). In my mind, that endorsement is worthless - just think about that nice $2,000 chart plotter that gets fried by lightning... For a 1994 boat like mine, that means a partial loss would have only resulted in recovery of 60% after the $1,200 deductible, and for my last boat, (a 1977) only 20%. For that kind of coverage on my old boat, I'd just go bare! The policy I had in place until last week was slightly more expensive. but does not include a depreciation provision of that magnitude. I am immediately urging all folks I know to immediately shop their coverage and move it to a company that does not apply depreciation as soon as possible. 1). I am embarrassed to have to admit that as a person with 30+ years in the insurance industry, I had not read my policy.2). The person I spoke with on the phone confirmed that this was not a provision of the prior CNA policies issued through Boat U.S. 3). I consider this bad faith on the part of the insurer and the licensed brokers at Boat U.S. I intend to file a formal complaint with the Florida Department of Insurance accordingly. This is exactly the kind of thing that would get me involved in an Errors & Omissions claim if I did this to a client, and I made that abundantly clear to the person I was talking to at Boat U.S. I will also post this on other boards. Bruce Whitmore 1994 C&C 37/40+ "Astralis" (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Restarting Thread - Insurance
I agree with Joel. The Agreed Value says that everyone's agreed as to the payment in the event of a total loss. I'm looking at the declarations page from Boat U.S. right now, and it says nothing about depreciation in the case of repairs (for less than a total loss). That is buried down in the policy language itself on Page 4 of 13 under "(2) Repair for Partial Loss" I'm just plain offended... Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Joel Aronson Sent: Friday, February 9, 2018 12:31 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Restarting Thread - Insurance "Agreed value" applies in a total loss situation. Its a ceiling, not a floor. Joel | | Virus-free. www.avg.com | On Fri, Feb 9, 2018 at 12:21 PM, John Christopher via CnC-List wrote: You could very well be right (being in Canada) for the last 10 years, but let’s keep an eye on what the fine print says on renewal forms as a trend. /J On Feb 9, 2018, at 12:09 PM, Marek Dziedzic wrote: Isn’t one of the options the so called “agreed value” insurance? This is what I am using for over 10 years (both for the previous boat and this one). This way, the value does not depreciate over time. You agree on the value (in fact you call it, but they adjust the premium) and that’s it. Any additional costs (liability, salvage etc.) don’t depreciate, so it is not the issue. just my 2 (Canadian) cents Marekin Ottawa, ON From: John Christopher via CnC-ListSent: Friday, February 9, 2018 11:57To: Joel Aronson Cc: John Christopher ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Restarting Thread - Insurance: SHAME on Boat U.S./Geico! Hi, Have been monitoring this thread from the Canadian north. A pattern to consider in relation to depreciation is, considering the hurricanes, storms, frequency, numbers, and perhaps where people store their boats for the winter (mainland or other). It comes to mind the insurers are also mitigating their risk for the future. As a result they have devised a method that supports paying out far less than they do today due to the increased frequency of disasters. I don’t mean to stir the pot here, just an observation. /J __ _ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/ stumurray -- Joel 301 541 8551___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Restarting Thread - Insurance
For those of you who decide to change carriers mid-year, demand Boat U.S. return 100% of the unearned premium because of the failure to disclose the change in settlement provisions by comparison to the old CNA policy. You don't want them to hit you with a "short rate penalty" which would reduce the refund they will process. Thanks again to Joel for pointing this out, Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Frederick G Street Sent: Friday, February 9, 2018 2:11 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Restarting Thread - Insurance I’m with you; I checked my policy earlier today and found that same verbiage. Maybe it’s time to get in touch with BoatUS to express our total and complete disgust. — Fred Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( On Feb 9, 2018, at 1:04 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List wrote: I agree with Joel. The Agreed Value says that everyone's agreed as to the payment in the event of a total loss. I'm looking at the declarations page from Boat U.S. right now, and it says nothing about depreciation in the case of repairs (for less than a total loss). That is buried down in the policy language itself on Page 4 of 13 under "(2) Repair for Partial Loss" I'm just plain offended... Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Exterior Teak / sanding between coats
Just be careful it's Spar Varnish and not Polyurethane. Spar Varnish retains more flexibility so withstand the heat swings of being exposed outside. Caution is advised though - I'm no expert! Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: William Hall via CnC-List To: cnc-list Cc: William Hall Sent: Friday, February 9, 2018 12:08 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Exterior Teak / sanding between coats This summer I discovered varnish in a spray can. I decided to try it on my grab rails. Two interesting differences from traditional varnish: - Subsequent coats can be applied without sanding if done within an hour or so. You don't wait for it to dry completely. - No brush marks Has anyone else had experience with it? I thought it worked pretty well in my test, and certainly liked the ability to get many coats done in a short day. I look forward to seeing how it holds up over time. It seems there must be some downside to this! BillStarfireC&C 37Ludington, MI On Fri, Feb 9, 2018 at 11:43 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote: Dave, You're not an unwanted guest. I actually agree with your opinion to some degree. I was walking piers one day and saw a Pearson 365 that belonged to a local sailmaker. The varnished teak toe rails looked amazing. I asked him how many coats of varnish. Answer: 23. I varnished the teak grate in Touche's head a few years back. Applied in excess of 15 coats, probably more than 20. Sanding between each coat. It looks really good. Philosophically, I liken the Cetol vs varnish decision to that of Awlgrip vs Awlcraft 2000. Awlgrip is harder, probably looks better longer but is harder to apply and repair. For me, the difference is in the sanding between coats. If you want really great varnish, you need to diligently sand between coats. Cetol does not require sanding between coats. Apllying a filler to the bare teak prior to varnish is another difference. Interested in results and experiences with Awlwood. Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA On Feb 9, 2018 9:11 AM, "Dave Godwin via CnC-List" wrote: Consider me the unwanted guest at the party on this thread but I won’t use Cetol. A few reasons. Years ago I redid all the teak trim on my Mako 261. Fortunately the teak was just aged out. No prior coating that I could determine. I sanded to bright, applied base coats of light Cetol and then several coats of their Gloss. It looked okay, but not nearly as nice as a good varnish job. I figured I could live with that if the maintenance was substantially less than varnish. It didn’t turn out that way. Yes, the Cetol lasted a bit longer than varnish but not enough to overcome the “look” that IMHO was not as smooth and deep as varnish. Although I haven’t subjected my exterior teak trim on “Ronin” to the outdoors yet, everything that I have re-varnished, cabin sole included, has been done with AwlWood. Just from an ease of application (5/6 coats versus 8-10 for regular varnish) and the deep, clear look it is worth it. As an aside, I have a friend with a Tartan 37 who ponied up $4,000 last year to have a professional crew redo all his exterior teak with Cetol. I watched the process being done in the yard near my boat. It took every bit as much time as a varnish job. Yesterday I was on his boat checking it out for him and I was noting the quality of the finish. Very good but nowhere near as nice as a well done varnish job. And being the contrarian that I can be, next time I have to apply AwlWood, I’ll spray. Best,Dave Godwin 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin Reedville - Chesapeake BayRonin’s Overdue Refit On Feb 9, 2018, at 9:10 AM, David via CnC-List wrote: So those using Cetol and putting gloss as the last two coats. Is that for looks? Hardness? Both? Thanks in advance. David F. Risch (401) 419-4650 (cell) From: CnC-List on behalf of Dennis C. via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, February 7, 2018 2:18 PM To: CnClist Cc: Dennis C. Subject: Re: Stus-List Exterior Teak I used teak oil on the toe rails of my previous boat. I religiously oiled them every few months. After a few months, they looked like crap. On Touche' I use Cetol. Five coats Cetol Marine followed by three coats Cetol Gloss. Then a coat of Cetol gloss twice a year. Over ten years in the Louisiana sun and still looking pretty good. I seen dock neighbors use Bristol, teak oil, Semco, etc. For my money and time, it's Cetol. However, I'd be tempted to look hard at Awlwood. Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA On Feb 7, 2018 10:47 AM, "Brien Sadler via CnC-List" wrote: My exterior teak is starting to show signs of wear and it's time to refinish it. It looks as though it has been varnished in the past but was wondering if anyone has just used teak oil on their exterior wood. Looking for recommendations. Brien SadlerS/V TAZC&C 35-3 __ _ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Ea
Re: Stus-List Short Cruise!
I go in & out of John's Pass most weekends, and saw the boat laying on its side on Saturday. Very sad. There's a few things I've learned from the local reports, however. 1). The couple was relying on charts to identify the bouys. That doesn't here. They move the markers in the pass somewhat regularly, as the shoaling changes where the sandbars are, and in fact, they just moved the bouys more south about a month ago, partially as a response to reports we had made to the bridge tender about touching bottom while still in the marked channel (we draw 5 feet with the board up). The current channel is way south now of where chart shows the bouys. 2). They came in at night. Bad move. During the day, they would have had a much better chance of seeing the bouys. Or, if they had been paying attention, they would have seen larger boats going in & out, and seen where they were entering & exiting the pass. The would have also had a chance to see the breakers ahead, and known to stand off and reconsider the entrance. 3). They could have called the bridge tender to reconfirm the right approach. They folks who run the bridges are very nice, and would be more than happy to help someone understand where the channel is. I'm even somewhat surprised they didn't get a call on the radio warning them away. The tender has called me more than once after they moved the markers to advise me of the change, and even recommended that I stay 200 yards south of the green mark just to be sure. As for the keel bolts, I agree they shouldn't have failed during a soft grounding. It's also bothersome that they didn't have insurance. I know they were broke, but boaters have a responsibility to make sure that there are funds for salvage in the case of a total loss. They can crowdfund all they want, but someone's going to be coming after them for the salvage costs. As an experienced sailor (20+ years in Chicago on Lake Michigan), I found (and am still finding) that I have lots to learn sailing down here in West Florida, while sailing here is much less hazardous from a weather perspective, the shallows, tides & currents make this part of Florida treacherous from a grounding perspective. Not trying to pile on the couple for their loss, in fact I feel badly for them. Just thinking about the lessons that can be learned, Bruce Whitmore 1994 C&C 37/40+ "Astralis"Madiera Beach, FL (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Toe Rail water drain
I never had much luck with cellulose sponges. For me, the natural sponges work much better. Just my $.02 worth, Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ window replacement
The other thing we found out when we did our windows was that the Plexus that
had been used to install the original windows was so hard and tightly bonded to
the fiberglass that it made a fine substrate to adhere to using the 3M VHB
tape. Thus, the complaints others have mentioned about having to paint to
avoid chips and marks showing through, etc. was not a problem for us.
Your mileage may differ,
Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
From: Paul Fountain via CnC-List
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
Cc: Paul Fountain
Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2018 3:34 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ window replacement
#yiv1638678723 #yiv1638678723 -- .yiv1638678723EmailQuote
{margin-left:1pt;padding-left:4pt;border-left:#80 2px solid;}#yiv1638678723
Mark, you want cast and 3/8”. The first time mine were done the ‘expert’ used
1/4 which I did not know until I had both crack after just 3 years. He did not
polish or bevel the edges either and did a lot of damage to the opening.
When we re did them I got the windows made at SOUTHSHORE as Rob had the
original patterns, the had the installer, re do the openings, he was a highly
regarded fibreglass repairman who’s work looks great including matching the gel
coat.
Get Outlook for iOSFrom: CnC-List on behalf of
Mark Baldridge via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, February 9, 2018 7:20:06 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mark Baldridge
Subject: Stus-List C&C 37+ window replacement Hi All,
I'm in discussion with the yard to replace the fixed windows on my
37/40+ this spring. They barely leak, but there are vertical splits on
both sides of the forward windows and in big downpours do leak. I
currently have blue tape on them to stop the leaks when I'm not around.
I want them replaced and looking sharp before the wife picks out new
upholstery for the interior.
So far I'm looking at having them use 3M 4991 VHB tape and Dow 795
caulking. For those that have this done, any tips I should pass on to
the folks doing the work.
Also what was used for the windows, "cast" plexiglass? and what
thickness? I've read 3/8 in posts, but I've been told 1/4" would work
better due to the curvature of the adhesion area.
Thanks,
Mark Baldridge
~~_/)
'89 C&C 37/40+ "The Edge"
Surf City, NC
___
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal
to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
___
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal
to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
___
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal
to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Short Cruise!
Not to be funny, but where that boat grounded they could walk to shore...
Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
From: David via CnC-List
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
Cc: David
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2018 8:24 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Short Cruise!
#yiv1821346864 #yiv1821346864 -- P
{margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}#yiv1821346864 I cant help but thinking that
given their lack of experience, gear, preparation, and age of boat...the fact
that they got away alive is a blessing. If not then, it might be next time.
These things do not happen in a vacuum and some other event will more than
likely befall them again if they do not take the time to gain some experience
first.
David F. Risch1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)
From: CnC-List on behalf of Bruce Whitmore via
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2018 8:01 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Re: Stus-List Short Cruise! I go in & out of John's Pass most
weekends, and saw the boat laying on its side on Saturday. Very sad.
There's a few things I've learned from the local reports, however.
1). The couple was relying on charts to identify the bouys. That doesn't
here. They move the markers in the pass somewhat regularly, as the shoaling
changes where the sandbars are, and in fact, they just moved the bouys more
south about a month ago, partially as a response to reports we had made to the
bridge tender about touching bottom while still in the marked channel (we draw
5 feet with the board up). The current channel is way south now of where chart
shows the bouys.
2). They came in at night. Bad move. During the day, they would have had a
much better chance of seeing the bouys. Or, if they had been paying attention,
they would have seen larger boats going in & out, and seen where they were
entering & exiting the pass. The would have also had a chance to see the
breakers ahead, and known to stand off and reconsider the entrance.
3). They could have called the bridge tender to reconfirm the right approach.
They folks who run the bridges are very nice, and would be more than happy to
help someone understand where the channel is. I'm even somewhat surprised they
didn't get a call on the radio warning them away. The tender has called me
more than once after they moved the markers to advise me of the change, and
even recommended that I stay 200 yards south of the green mark just to be sure.
As for the keel bolts, I agree they shouldn't have failed during a soft
grounding.
It's also bothersome that they didn't have insurance. I know they were broke,
but boaters have a responsibility to make sure that there are funds for salvage
in the case of a total loss. They can crowdfund all they want, but someone's
going to be coming after them for the salvage costs.
As an experienced sailor (20+ years in Chicago on Lake Michigan), I found (and
am still finding) that I have lots to learn sailing down here in West Florida,
while sailing here is much less hazardous from a weather perspective, the
shallows, tides & currents make this part of Florida treacherous from a
grounding perspective.
Not trying to pile on the couple for their loss, in fact I feel badly for them.
Just thinking about the lessons that can be learned, Bruce Whitmore
1994 C&C 37/40+ "Astralis"Madiera Beach, FL
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
___
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal
to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
___
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal
to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Shifter Cable
What is the structure of your pedestal? Does the shift cable go through the pedestal itself, or through stainless tubes running down the outside of the pedestal and through the pedestal feet? It will make a huge difference. A photo link would be helpful. Kindest Regards, Bruce Whitmore 1994 C&C 37/40+ "Astralis"Madiera Beach, FL (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: jaycotty . via CnC-List To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com Cc: jaycotty . Sent: Monday, February 12, 2018 5:51 PM Subject: Stus-List Shifter Cable Need help from the guru C&C people here please! I need to replace the shifter cable from my cc 33 I don't know the length, haven't got it out yet it looks like is a PITA! anyone here had replaced one before that can give me some advice where can I get one? And how can I get that darn thing out, space is limited. SHM! -- Thank You!Jay*___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Battery power
Not only explained simply, it's memorable. Thanks Josh, Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List To: C&C List Cc: Josh Muckley Sent: Monday, February 12, 2018 5:44 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery power First, I completely agree with everyone else about amp hours and meters and the sort. But Just looking at the voltage, the easiest way is to think of the available capacity as 1 volt from 11.7v to 12.7v. Each 0.1 (tenth) of a volt is roughly equal to 10% of usable capacity. Long winded explanation:This is actually pretty conservative since minimum voltage of a dead battery is 10.5v (0%) Full is 12.7v (100%). A difference of 2.2v battery service life (think warranty or years before replacement) decreases exponentially the further discharged you get. Normally a service life measurement is based on 50% discharge cycles. Imagine that the battery is rated for 200 cycles @ 50% for its entire life. That number might drop to 100 cycles @ 70%, and increase to 400 @ 20%. Because of all of this, the typical recommendation is to minimize depth of discharge overall but to absolutely avoid discharging deeper than 50%. Using the assumption of a linear relationship of 2.2v between 0% and 100% we can extrapolate that our 50% minimum to 100% is equal to 1.1v. Since its just easier to say one volt, and 12.7v is easy to associate with 11.7v. I come full circle to the 10% = 0.1v. Did I explain that well enough? Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+Solomons, MD On Feb 12, 2018 3:02 PM, "David Knecht via CnC-List" wrote: This discussion raises an issue I have struggled with as I have started cruising more: deciding how much battery power I have. I have 2 AGM batteries, one house, one starting and a panel voltmeter for monitoring. My batteries are now separated so I no longer have to worry about being able to start the engine if I run the house too low. The fridge is the only major power draw, so I usually am just conservative, running it only periodically to make sure I don’t overdraw the battery. So what is the most efficient way to figure out how much I can safely run the fridge? If I just watch the voltage, how do I decide if I can leave the fridge on overnight? Dave Aries1990 C&C 34+New London, CT On Feb 12, 2018, at 2:33 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote: Much of your problem is a matter of battery capacity as much as a matter of charging capacity. I have ~450 Ah of capacity on one bank, a 90 Amp alternator that never reaches full load, and 200 watts of solar. Even without the solar I was able to comfortably keep the the fridge running and the lights on when cruising for ~2 weeks. The half hour to hour of engine operation to anchor or moore in the evening and the same in the morning was always enough to keep the batteries charged. Keep in mind that the battery capacity should be at least 4x of the charge capacity for flooded lead acid and at least 2x for AGM. So a 400 Ah or 200 Ah respectively for a 100 amp alternator. Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+Solomons, MD On Mon, Feb 12, 2018, 12:55 PM Damian Greene via CnC-List wrote: A question for your collective wisdom: I am scoping out upgrading my stock 55A alternator to a 100A Balmar, and related upgrades to the controls. I had a very productive discussion with Rod Collins at Compass Marine (mainesail), and we worked out the details. Unfortunately he's booked out through the spring, so this job will wait until next winter. So thinking then about keeping the batteries charged, and the fridge running on our long summer cruise - where we may go for weeks without access to shore power, I got wondering about using a portable generator to charge the batteries - as an alternative to many hours of running the diesel. There are a couple of Hondas that might do the trick 2000 Watt, weighing 47#, 1000 Watt weighing 29#. Have any of you tried this? What could (would) go wrong if I plugged this generator into my inverter, to charge the batteries? Regards, Damian 1986 Sabre 38 FreefallPreviously 1984 C&C 34 GhostBass Harbor, Maine__ _ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/ stumurray __ _ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/ stumurray __ _ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/ stumurray __
Re: Stus-List Portable generator question
Thanks Bill, that's a good insight. Just keeping gum out of the generator would be a big win in my opinion. We'll be adding solar to the bimini sometime in the future (probably late this year or early next year), but down here in Florida, if we're out cruising and not at a dock (the transient slips tend to be over $100 a night down here), a generator to run the A/C would be highly desirable. I love the idea of it running off the propane even if I have to get a long hose to run from the propane locker in the stern all the way up to the bow (we sleep in our stern berth). Thanks again, Bruce Whitmore 1994 C&C 37/40+ "Astralis"Madiera Beach, FL (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: Bill Dakin via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Bill Dakin Sent: Monday, February 12, 2018 3:55 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Portable generator question I found certain retailers of the Honda 2000 will sell you one converted to run on propane from gasoline. Like the propane dinghy outboards (Lehr), NO gum in the fuel system. There is a cost from lower BTU in propane than gasoline, but if you already use propane for the Magma, you have the fuel (hopefully in the right spot). Bill Dakin25-2S/V Tapestry___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Source for Kracor Tank Inspection Port Caps
Hello all, After striking out at our local RV store and online searches, I called Kracor tanks. They told me in no uncertain terms they only work with boat manufacturers, not individuals. They tried to tell me to call C&C. Finally I got connected with someone back in the shop who directed me to: Claires Marine Outfitters2921 SW 2nd Ave, Fort Lauderdale, FL 33315(954) 523-4301 They had them in stock, $10 apiece plus shipping. You may want to make a note of this if you think you'll need a cap someday. As it turns out the lip on one of my caps is bent up, and as a result the cap itself is leaking through a crack. Thus the need for the replacement. By the way, I took the advice of getting x type o-rings, and for about $10 I got a package of 10. They work great and seal much better than the original gasket/o-rings. I got them through McMaster Carr. Thanks everyone for the help, Bruce Whitmore 1994 C&C 37/40+"Astralis" (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Hard bimini?
Hello all, I am considering replacing our sunbrella bimini with a hard top version to make it so that we won't have to replace it again (at least not in my boat ownership lifetime) and to provide a smooth base for mounting semi-flexible solar panels. Have any of you done this yourself? I found this company selling ones the make: Photos | Hard To Top | | | Photos | Hard To Top Hard to Top boat hardtops are custom made for each boat's specifications and are attached to the boat's ... | | | They quoted me $649 for a 6' x 9' top using my existing stainless frame. Shipping was about $150 on top of that. This seems pretty reasonable, but I'd like your thoughts. Also, what do you thing about the look of it? Looking forward to hearing your thoughts, Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Portable generator question
Hi Josh, Just curious, what batteries do you have in your bank, and where are they mounted? Am I right to presume that having more charge capacity would result in shorter battery life? Just trying to size my eventual solar panel purchase. Thanks! Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Josh Muckley Sent: Monday, February 12, 2018 2:34 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Portable generator question Much of your problem is a matter of battery capacity as much as a matter of charging capacity. I have ~450 Ah of capacity on one bank, a 90 Amp alternator that never reaches full load, and 200 watts of solar. Even without the solar I was able to comfortably keep the the fridge running and the lights on when cruising for ~2 weeks. The half hour to hour of engine operation to anchor or moore in the evening and the same in the morning was always enough to keep the batteries charged. Keep in mind that the battery capacity should be at least 4x of the charge capacity for flooded lead acid and at least 2x for AGM. So a 400 Ah or 200 Ah respectively for a 100 amp alternator. Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+Solomons, MD On Mon, Feb 12, 2018, 12:55 PM Damian Greene via CnC-List wrote: A question for your collective wisdom: I am scoping out upgrading my stock 55A alternator to a 100A Balmar, and related upgrades to the controls. I had a very productive discussion with Rod Collins at Compass Marine (mainesail), and we worked out the details. Unfortunately he's booked out through the spring, so this job will wait until next winter. So thinking then about keeping the batteries charged, and the fridge running on our long summer cruise - where we may go for weeks without access to shore power, I got wondering about using a portable generator to charge the batteries - as an alternative to many hours of running the diesel. There are a couple of Hondas that might do the trick 2000 Watt, weighing 47#, 1000 Watt weighing 29#. Have any of you tried this? What could (would) go wrong if I plugged this generator into my inverter, to charge the batteries? Regards, Damian 1986 Sabre 38 FreefallPreviously 1984 C&C 34 GhostBass Harbor, Maine___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 original list price
I'd kind of disagree... Technically, boat didn't depreciate very much. It inflation that's taking down the value of today's dollars. Depreciation is the reduction in $ value over time, and from a tax writeoff perspective, a $20,000 asset owned by a business would be written off over a specified period of time, presumably to the point it would be worth $0. Its just that $20,000 won't buy you a new sailboat any longer! Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: Randy Stafford via CnC-List To: cnc-list Cc: Randy Stafford ; Patrick Davin Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2018 6:08 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 original list price According to C&C brochures that came with Grenadine, the C&C 30 MK I base price as at September 13, 1976 was $27,200. As at September 1, 1977 it had increased to $30,450. I don’t have information on how much her first owner paid for her in 1972. I’d guess ~$20,000 if the base price tracked with inflation. That’s ~$120,000 in today’s dollars. And I bought the boat (and its trailer) for $16,500 two years ago. Poor thing obviously depreciated a lot. Cheers,Randy StaffordS/V GrenadineC&C 30-1 #7Ken Caryl, CO On Feb 15, 2018, at 3:14 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List wrote: Wow. That's $123,000 in today's dollars. (20k in 1971 = 123k today). Important to compare real values, not nominal values - inflation over 47 years is very significant! Still not bad, a 35' production boat today goes a bit more than that I think. Would be interesting if anyone has a 1980's number. The 70's after about '73 had massive inflation - https://www.investopedia.com/articles/economics/09/1970s-great-inflation.asp Dennis I suspect the note to not install genoa winches is because the owner wanted a particular placement of them (the line after that says "put in the boat loose w/ fastenings"). -Patrick'84 LF38 On Thu, Feb 15, 2018 at 1:59 PM, wrote: -- Forwarded message -- From: "Dennis C." To: CnClist Cc: Bcc: Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2018 14:23:01 -0600 Subject: Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 original list price Paul, Doesn't answer your post but below is a link to Touche's original 1971 order from the yacht broker to Hinterhoeller. Shows a base price of $18,760 with $872 worth of options. A Landfall 10 years later would have been a wee bit more. Interesting note on Page 2, Item 81. "DO NOT install genoa sheet winches or cleats." Never have figured that one out. https://drive.google.com/open? id= 1y6lBr8452ciJtkdrVQ2OLIKTbJAuF gb5 Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA On Thu, Feb 15, 2018 at 11:15 AM, Dreuge via CnC-List wrote: Hi, I was asked a question about the Landfall 38 original list price, and I realized I had no clue. Does anyone know what they were original going for in 1981 or thereabouts? - Paul E.1981 C&C 38 Landfall S/V Johanna Rose Fort Walton Beach, FL http://svjohannarose.blogspot. com/ __ _ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurr ay ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Refinishing interior woodwork (not cabin sole)
Hello all, I am about ready to start trying to repair some water-spotted, worn and dried out wood in our 1994 C&C 37/40+. Does anyone know what type of varnish, lacquer or other treatment was used originally by C&C to finish the interior woodwork? I'm talking vertical surfaces, the nav table, etc., and I'd really like to match the interior look it had when it came out of the showroom so I don't have to refinish every square inch. What should I use to remove the existing coating (if I should remove it at all), and what would you recommend for a new coating? I've used lemon oil before, but it seems to turn the wood dark over time. I'm thinking Danish Oil, but I really don't know enough to make an informed decision. Thanks for the insights! Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Refinishing interior woodwork (not cabin sole)
I should have been a little more clear - the lemon oil I used was on my previous 1977 C&C 27 MKIII, not this boat, so I don't have to clean that off. I was really hoping for something a little less intensive than varnishing the entire inside. I know, that's pure wishful thinking... :) Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Andrew Burton Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2018 10:25 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Refinishing interior woodwork (not cabin sole) Bruce, if you're going to all that work, I would varnish. No oil is going to last and it leaves the veneer subject to water intrusion, which will stain the teak. First, I'd try to clean the old lemon oil off with alcohol, then sand with 180 grip paper, apply a sealer coat (I like Pettit Clear Sealer), allow that to dry, then apply a coat of Epiphanes Wood Finish Gloss (bring money) for it's durability and UV resisting properties, Then brush on a coat of Epiphanes Rubbed Effect varnish, which is a really forgiving finish that gives off a beautiful lustre.You can varnish over most teak oils.Peregrine was done that way before I got her and in the five years I had her the finish still looked terrific. The only maintenance was a wipe-down with vinegar and water every now and then. AndyFormerly: C&C 40Peregrine Now: Baltic 47Masquerade On Tue, Feb 27, 2018 at 10:03 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List wrote: Hello all, I am about ready to start trying to repair some water-spotted, worn and dried out wood in our 1994 C&C 37/40+. Does anyone know what type of varnish, lacquer or other treatment was used originally by C&C to finish the interior woodwork? I'm talking vertical surfaces, the nav table, etc., and I'd really like to match the interior look it had when it came out of the showroom so I don't have to refinish every square inch. What should I use to remove the existing coating (if I should remove it at all), and what would you recommend for a new coating? I've used lemon oil before, but it seems to turn the wood dark over time. I'm thinking Danish Oil, but I really don't know enough to make an informed decision. Thanks for the insights! Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net __ _ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/ stumurray -- Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Ave Newport, RI USA 02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ phone +401 965 5260___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List water heater
I recently saw an article in the Boat U.S. magazine about replacing the sacrificial anode in boat water heaters. Interestingly, when we bought our boat, the water heater was not hooked up (though the hoses were still full of antifreeze), and the water tanks were bone dry. I think it had been that way for at least 7 years, and maybe longer. I haven't checked the anode yet. Just curious, Bruce Whitmore 1994 C&C 37/40+, "Astralis" (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: schiller via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: schiller Sent: Friday, March 2, 2018 2:56 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List water heater Marek, I have a 6 gallon Force 10 electric/engine coolant water heater that has been in my pole barn for about 10 years. Still in box, still works. I bought it to put in our Redwing 35 (C&C 35-1), but never got around to it. Make me an offer and pay shipping and it is yours (I have other boat projects to fund). I already rebuilt the water heater that came out of Grace. Neil Schiller 1983 C&C 35-3, #028 "Grace" White Lake Michigan WLYC On 3/2/2018 2:04 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote: I have to replace my water heater. I was wondering if there is a common wisdom on which ones are good and which ones are to be avoided. It looks like Kuuma, Camco and Seaward are available here (and all seem to look the same or very similar). I am looking for a 5-6 gal. heater that can use the engine coolant (and potentially AC, but this is secondary). Any recommendations (or warnings) would be appreciated thanks Marek 1994 C270 “Legato” Ottawa, ON ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List 1981 C&C 36' - Fresh Water Tank Replacement
Hello all, I put on "x" shaped o-rings from McMaster Carr, and lubricated them with teflon grease similar to the Super Lube just mentioned, which I highly recommend. In our case, it is teflon grease sold by local pool stores for lubricating pool equipment o-rings. I believe it is also food grade. The x-shaped o-rings stopped all the leaking from the caps entirely. The orings I ordered are: https://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=90025K412, though I would recommend going one size larger, as they were very tight going around the threads of the caps. Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: Steve Thomas via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Steve Thomas Sent: Thursday, March 29, 2018 5:24 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List 1981 C&C 36' - Fresh Water Tank Replacement Thanks for the update Tim. Disappointing news about Kracor. Typical unfortunately of what happens when a small company is taken over by a large corporation. I have observed that the flat tops on the fairly thin roto-moulded tanks bulge quite a bit when full, and I have not been successful in stopping the clean-outs from leaking either. Like you, I have reached the conclusion that this is just a design "feature". I thought about lubricating the O rings, but couldn't think of anything that I wanted to have in contact with drinking water. Steve Thomas C&C36 Merritt Island, FL Tim Rutherford via CnC-List wrote: Just to report back on this thread, what follows is my twisted 11-week path to resolution of a crack in one of my water tanks plus hairline cracks around the inspection ports, and difficulty getting a good seal on the Quest fittings on both tanks: Kracor initially said that they could quote replacement roto-molded tanks, but when it came down to it, they have been acquired by Yamaha and will now only quote large quantity orders. South Shore Yachts was able to quote new tanks from a third party but at over $1000 each, plus shipping to Florida, seemed cost prohibitive. Ultimately, I used a Florida tank manufacturer & repair facility, Seelye Inc., in Ocoee, FL to repair the crack in the tank. The cost to weld an 8-inch crack was $65. They tested it to be leak free but there is no warranty. On reassembly, I had trouble getting a seal around the suction fittings, which are Qest elbows, but found that if I first connected the tubing to the fitting and then screwed it in, I could get another couple of turns on the fitting. Both tanks are essentially leak-free except for a little weeping around the inspection ports if overfilled. I plan to avoid overfilling. While at it I also replaced the 4" o-rings on the tank ports (AS568-240), and on the old-style Jabsco suction strainers (AS568-131) and installed a Teflon back-up ring (AS568-007) under the strainer cover screw heads. Now on to the next adventure... -- Tim Rutherford Chamamé C&C 36' - #244 ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Choice of sealant for these jobs?
Hello, Interestingly, we have teak decking in the cockpit on our 1994 C&C 37/40+. When we had it refinished (including re-caulking), the guy who did it used SIS 440. More info can be found here: http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemDescV4&item=132018488074&category=10035&pm=1&ds=0&t=1337444586000&ver=0 I'm surprised that the butyl rubber is not working for the hatch/frame point. What is happening specifically, and what type of butyl tape are you using? Have you tried Bed-It Butyl Tape (by far the best in my experience). Best of luck, Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: TL ROSS via CnC-List To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" Cc: TL ROSS Sent: Friday, April 20, 2018 12:24 AM Subject: Stus-List Choice of sealant for these jobs? Hi! What sealant would you choose for these two jobs ? 1 shoring up the seal between the wood frame and the deck on us front hatch ? I can’t get the wood frame off so I’m just going to have to take off the extra old sealant stuff off that I can and try to make a good new seal around the outside. 2. Sealing the cast aluminum hatch to the wood frame - butyl is no good! C&C35 Mk 1. Thanks! -- Tracy rosstracylynnr...@gmail.comm: 416-770-8571 (TLR1)-- Tracy rosstracylynnr...@gmail.comm: 416-770-8571 (TLR1) ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Wax
Hello all, I have historically had very good experience with PoliGlow in the Chicago area - 16 years, as a matter of fact. That said, for some reason here in Florida, people swear at the stuff (rather than swearing by it). They say it yellows and is nearly impossible to remove. I don't know the reality either way down here, at least as of yet. I understand the remover is ammonia (and industrial strength at that). How difficult is it to remove in reality? For those of you who have worked with it in year-round hot, sunny, seawater exposed environments, what say to about the stuff? I'd really like to go back to it, but I've gotten an awful lot of pushback from the locals... Thanks for your input, Bruce Whitmore 1994C&C 37/40+ "Astralis"Madeira Beach, FL (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: coltrek--- via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: "colt...@verizon.net" Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2018 9:07 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Wax No, it's a polymer. And I don't claim to understand the difference between a wax and a polymer, but it's supposed to be better. And although I am using Poli Glow, when I recommended this to my buddy, he was quite astounded when he came back through the canal, and did not have a mustache. Everybody with wax on gelcoat will have a mustache. But it just did not stick to Rejex . And he was sold. Poli Glow is an acrylic. It's kind of a heavy build up as someone else just mentioned. I just stripped mine last year and started over . Poli Glow is where you go when your gelcoat coat is too old for a wax or polymer. Bill Coleman C&C 39On Sunday, April 22, 2018 Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote: Sounds a lot like PoliGlow or New Glass except a lot less expensive. -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Coleman via CnC-List Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2018 12:59 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Bill Coleman Subject: Re: Stus-List Wax Rejex. http://rejex.com/marine/ http://www.truevalue.com/product/car-wax-polymer-sealant-and-stain-barrier-1 6-oz-/14823.uts Way better than any Wax I have ever used. Everyone I have suggested it to swears by it. Bill Coleman C&C 39 Erie, PA -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew Burton via CnC-List Sent: Friday, April 20, 2018 3:37 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Andrew Burton Subject: Stus-List Wax Ok, assembled wisdom, what is the best wax to keep my gel coat shiny all summer? Peregrine was awl gripped so just used Awl Care, but I'm not sure that would work for gel coat. Cheers Andy Formerly, C&C 40 Peregrine Now, Baltic 47 Masquerade Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Newport, RI USA 02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ +401 965-5260 ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Engine Temp Gauge Not Working
I had a similar issue on my Yanmar 3JH2E, and finally realized that the gauge had been added on (though it may have been original equipment from C&C, it was not standard Yanmar equipment). I found that the temperature buzzer sensor screwed directly into the engine but the gauge sensor was teed in at the thermostat where the water hoses left the engine to go to the water heater. I as able to replace the sensor and the gauge with little fanfare. In my case, the sensor had shorted internally, and was pegging the gauge, and when I replaced the sensor, the gauge then wasn't working. Hope this helps, Bruce Whitmore 1994 C&C 37/40+ "Astralis"Madeira Beach, FL (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net From: Al Serrato via CnC-List To: C&C List Cc: Al Serrato Sent: Friday, April 27, 2018 12:25 PM Subject: Stus-List Engine Temp Gauge Not Working I bought a 1981 34' with a 3GMD engine a few years ago. The temp warning buzzer works but the gauge has never worked, although it is in place and wired. The Yanmar manual has a section on testing the buzzer sender unit, but I don't see anything about the location of the sender unit for the gauge or how to test it. Looking for any advice on how to approach diagnosing the problem. Is it the same sender unit for both the buzzer and gauge? I haven't spent the time trying to trace all the wiring but was hoping to find something in the manual first about how the gauge is wired. Thanks in advance for any help. Al Serrato1981 C&C 34Senza FineSan Francisco Bay ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Propane solenoid gets quite hot
Hello all, I did a propane leak-down test recently, and in addition to replacing the pigtail from a relatively new regulator to the tank, I decided to replace the hose to the solenoid, and the solenoid itself (the old one was functioning but was quite rusty). After replacing the solenoid, on energizing it, it became quite hot after a while (measuring +/- 170 degrees) which of course got me quite concerned. Yet, upon researching the issue, I found this to be quite common, and is a function of the solenoid being an electromagnet. More information can be found here: Product Review by Better Marine Services | | | Product Review by Better Marine Services Better Marine Services Offers the Best Marine Electrical Service, Mechanical Troubleshooting, Computer Systems, ... | | | Propane solenoid gets hot - Cruisers & Sailing Forums | | | Propane solenoid gets hot - Cruisers & Sailing Forums I just noticed tonight that the solenoid on my propane system was hot to the touch. Never checked or noticed but... | | | Even the solenoid manufacturer (US Solid) references the fact that the solenoid is not designed to be run for more than 8 hours straight and will become hot. The unit draws about 2 amps of power. The idea of a switch that is designed as a safety device to control propane getting hot just doesn't seem right in my book! Does anyone have a better solution? Yes, I manually turn the tank on & off when leaving the boat... Bruce Whitmore (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Time for new halyard... Recommendations?
Hello all, We have a 1994 C&C 37/40+. We've owned the boat for about a year. The halyards are badly faded from the sun, and we noticed an area where the core is showing at the eye splice around the shackles. The current halyards are Sta-Set X. We don't race, so super high-tech line is unnecessary, but that doesn't mean I want have to re-tension the halyards when I'm sailing, either. On my last boat (a C&C 27 MKIII), I tried the Sta-Set X 15 years ago or so, and didn't like the feel, and I think I remember the line slipping in the clutches as well. That has not been the case on this boat, but the line is old... I've seen some recommendations for NE Ropes VPC. What do you recommend for halyards and why? Thanks! Bruce Whitmore 1994 C&C 37/40+ "Astralis"Madeira Beach, FL 34677 (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
