subject:"Re\: \[mk2\-16v\] how do i find out what engine i have\?"

It's starting to sound like non California cars may not have what I've been
referring to as a check engine light.
My car was a California car from new.
The best ground on any car is the negative battery post.
The smell is very possibly the new cat, and the droning noise may be having
to do with the cat as well. You may want to check and see if the cat is
touching the heat shield that normally is between the cat and the floor of
the car.
Until you get the basic timing sorted out, I wouldn't worry about the cold
start issue. There is a cold start valve which is mounted to the intake
manifold, on the tranny end of the manifold. But if the car only takes a
couple of tries to fire when fully cold, the valve is probably working.
Sounds like you're on the home stretch, just double check the Bentley for
the exact basic timing procedure.
You could try and get the car smogged, just find a place that promises free
retests if you fail. Most smog stations in California do.
Hang in there, you've come a long way since your original post.

~Holland
On Mar 24, 2016 21:32, "damac2004"  wrote:

> hmm, i see nothing in my cluster about this light or a seperate switch in
> the dash.  i see motronic has basic codes you can check with jumper and led
> with harness under shift boot.  i will check my car tomorrow for that and
> see what happens.
>
> i tightened the distributor bolts and no go, timing light still jumps
> around.  i tried various spots on the spark plug wire no change.  i tried
> hooking up the timing light to the - post on coil to start like the bently
> talks about, this would illimunate light on my gun but it wouldn't flash,
> so i used the instructions for my gun and put it on the negative battery
> post?
>
> i'm not sure what to do here.  i hate to spend all that $$$ on a new one
> for no reason.
>
> i got antsy and took the car out for a hard drive and it was definately a
> different experience than before.  not sure if im crazy or if the cams,
> chip and intake could have made such a difference?
>
> now i have a cat on it and the car is much quiter walking around it at
> idle.  the engine bay specifically, and so much so when driving i thought
> the car died multiple times when coming to a stop.  to my ear i feel there
> is less crackling out the exhaust pipe, but it seems to me i hear and feel
> a new drone right under me when just coming off idle.  i would have called
> it a hesitation and gurgle but i noticed it isn't directly related to the
> throttle when pusing it to go.  on that front the car seems to react as
> good as ever without stumbling on the gas.  that drone seems to go away
> when revving it out, and will come back at times when letting off the
> throttle.  the car was always too loud for my liking when driving it but i
> don't really care at this point, i will get rid of it later anyway.
>
> i only drove for like 20 minutes and when i came back the car stunk.  not
> like raw gas smell, i wonder if its the cat breaking in?  of course they
> mention nothing about it.
>
> i am hoping i am on the home stretch here.  i am tempted to just take it
> into smog but i have to assume my timing isn't perfect and am afraid of
> failing and having to go back :(
>
> only issue i noticed again is i turned the car off and it restarted right
> away.  when i went out for the drive, maybe an hour after previously
> running the car had no life starting the first crank.  second crank it
> sounded like it stumbled at the end.  third crank it started and idled on
> its own.  so is it safe to assume i have a problem with "cold" starting?
>  it didn't use to act like this, it always showed signs of life.
>
> On Thursday, March 24, 2016 at 7:11:16 PM UTC-7, hollandphillips wrote:
>>
>> You're correct, there is no vacuum line attached to the ecu. But there is
>> definitely something that is supposed to be disconnected when setting base
>> timing. Since your chassis isn't a California car, there is probably a lot
>> of things that are different. Until the OBD2 spec came into effect in, I
>> think, '96, most new vehicles sold in the U.S. came in what was termed "49
>> state"  versions, and California versions. Thanks CARB & EPA. Now almost
>> all vehicles are "world spec", since the EU has become as emissions aware
>> as the U.S. has been for decades. They've even gone further with the
>> introduction of pedestrian accident requirements for front bumbers, which I
>> think the U.S. has or will be adopting.
>>
>> ~Holland
>> On Mar 24, 2016 18:53, "damac2004"  wrote:
>>
>> the 2.0 im shaft fit into my block but the matching big gear wouldn't fit
>> in the smaller hole on the block that mates with the oil pump so i still
>> don't understand whats going on with this, but if i pass smog i won't care
>> :)
>>
>> unless i am missing something all i see for timing this car is to heat it
>> up with a fan cycle and go.  no disconnecting the cts or revving like some
>> others???  i

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

hmm, i see nothing in my cluster about this light or a seperate switch in 
the dash.  i see motronic has basic codes you can check with jumper and led 
with harness under shift boot.  i will check my car tomorrow for that and 
see what happens.

i tightened the distributor bolts and no go, timing light still jumps 
around.  i tried various spots on the spark plug wire no change.  i tried 
hooking up the timing light to the - post on coil to start like the bently 
talks about, this would illimunate light on my gun but it wouldn't flash, 
so i used the instructions for my gun and put it on the negative battery 
post?

i'm not sure what to do here.  i hate to spend all that $$$ on a new one 
for no reason.

i got antsy and took the car out for a hard drive and it was definately a 
different experience than before.  not sure if im crazy or if the cams, 
chip and intake could have made such a difference?  

now i have a cat on it and the car is much quiter walking around it at 
idle.  the engine bay specifically, and so much so when driving i thought 
the car died multiple times when coming to a stop.  to my ear i feel there 
is less crackling out the exhaust pipe, but it seems to me i hear and feel 
a new drone right under me when just coming off idle.  i would have called 
it a hesitation and gurgle but i noticed it isn't directly related to the 
throttle when pusing it to go.  on that front the car seems to react as 
good as ever without stumbling on the gas.  that drone seems to go away 
when revving it out, and will come back at times when letting off the 
throttle.  the car was always too loud for my liking when driving it but i 
don't really care at this point, i will get rid of it later anyway.

i only drove for like 20 minutes and when i came back the car stunk.  not 
like raw gas smell, i wonder if its the cat breaking in?  of course they 
mention nothing about it.

i am hoping i am on the home stretch here.  i am tempted to just take it 
into smog but i have to assume my timing isn't perfect and am afraid of 
failing and having to go back :( 

only issue i noticed again is i turned the car off and it restarted right 
away.  when i went out for the drive, maybe an hour after previously 
running the car had no life starting the first crank.  second crank it 
sounded like it stumbled at the end.  third crank it started and idled on 
its own.  so is it safe to assume i have a problem with "cold" starting? 
 it didn't use to act like this, it always showed signs of life.

On Thursday, March 24, 2016 at 7:11:16 PM UTC-7, hollandphillips wrote:
>
> You're correct, there is no vacuum line attached to the ecu. But there is 
> definitely something that is supposed to be disconnected when setting base 
> timing. Since your chassis isn't a California car, there is probably a lot 
> of things that are different. Until the OBD2 spec came into effect in, I 
> think, '96, most new vehicles sold in the U.S. came in what was termed "49 
> state"  versions, and California versions. Thanks CARB & EPA. Now almost 
> all vehicles are "world spec", since the EU has become as emissions aware 
> as the U.S. has been for decades. They've even gone further with the 
> introduction of pedestrian accident requirements for front bumbers, which I 
> think the U.S. has or will be adopting. 
>
> ~Holland
> On Mar 24, 2016 18:53, "damac2004"  
> wrote:
>
> the 2.0 im shaft fit into my block but the matching big gear wouldn't fit 
> in the smaller hole on the block that mates with the oil pump so i still 
> don't understand whats going on with this, but if i pass smog i won't care 
> :)
>
> unless i am missing something all i see for timing this car is to heat it 
> up with a fan cycle and go.  no disconnecting the cts or revving like some 
> others???  i don't have any vacuum line on my ecu either.
>
> bently has a blurb that distributor bearings might be messed up if timing 
> wanders, ugh.  maybe i had the bolts too loose i will go out and try and 
> tighten them and see.
>
> i see no engine light in my cluster either and the last smog guy i went to 
> was asking me where it was!!!  its a non california car and i won't be 
> going back to that guy.
>
> On Thursday, March 24, 2016 at 5:52:49 PM UTC-7, hollandphillips wrote:
>
> Two knock sensors means 2.0/9A block.
> On the timing issue, there is something that needs to be disconnected 
> prior to using a timing light. I can't remember what exactly it is, but I 
> think it's a vacuum line somewhere. Again, that information is in the 
> Bentley. Once the whatever is disconnected, the timing should be steady 
> when viewed with the timing light.
> The timing advance on Motronic cars is controlled by the ECU, which is why 
> initial setting of the timing requires disconnecting whatever it is the 
> Bentley tells you. They do connect a timing sensor to the number one 
> cylinder spark plug lead when running an emissions test in California. 
> Don't know if it's

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

Maybe it was a California only thing. But I am positive that there was some
sort of indicator on the dash that would illuminate when you turned on the
ignition, and go out once the engine started. And, at least on my car, it
would light up if the ECU detected a fault. Many times I remember reading
the codes, and fixing the problem, and then clearing the code, causing the
light to go out.

~Holland
On Mar 24, 2016 7:08 PM, "'Josh Wyte' via MK2-16v" 
wrote:

> You sure?  My friends '92 corrado didn't have one.  I've never seen one in
> a 16v GTi/GLi.
>
> I've never seen one until '93 and even then it had to be a late '93...
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Mar 24, 2016, at 6:59 PM, Holland Phillips 
> wrote:
>
> My '92 had an amber lindicator that was in the shape of an engine. I used
> to check for codes using the method outlined in the Bentley, so I'm sure it
> was there. Maybe I'm wrong about it looking like an engine, too much has
> happened since the last time I worked on my car.
> On Mar 24, 2016 17:29, 'Josh Wyte' via MK2-16v 
> wrote:
>
> Holland,
>
> There is no check engine light.  VW didn't add one until 1993, my corrado
> slc had one...
>
> Josh
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Mar 24, 2016, at 6:04 PM, damac2004  wrote:
>
> ok so ground showed no continuity to that sensor wire.  it does with pin 7
> i believe on the ecu connector,  so i guess i am good.  i kept getting
> confused because people were talking about an insulated wire and im
> thinking a nasty cable like for tv.  when looking these guys over as is,
> they don't seem special looking to me.
>
> also i looked over the car again and i do have 2 knock sensors.  they are
> on the front of the block close to each, closer to cylinder #1.  they each
> attach to a harness connector  that goes into the loom and to the ecu.  so
> if i remember right people said 1.8 blocks don't have 2?  yet i couldn't
> fit the larger im shaft gear into this block that mates to the oil pump it
> had the smaller block off plate hole?  so still not sure what i have.  in
> included a picture down below.  hopefully i won't need to care.
>
> here is a link to video of my first cold startup.   for some reason it
> took like 5 times to start like there was no gas, fuel pump was making
> noise.  then it started right up.  can anybody tell if it sounds ok?  i am
> now having an issue with timing the car.  i tried cold and after a warmup
> cycle and i cannot get the pointer to stay still with the light on?  it
> kind of lines up with the diamond and then it will shoot off a little bit
> off one way or the other.  if i go further either way from where it is now,
> when it shoots off it tends to go in that direction more.  i tried
> connecting the lead near the distributor cap and at the head.  it seems to
> like this spot the best but im not sure how accurate it is.  im wondering
> what impact this could have on smog if im a little off.  also not sure if
> this means my car is having troubles or if my timing light is messed up.
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GB9yXn61pS8
>
>
> 
>
>
>
>
> On Thursday, March 24, 2016 at 10:32:11 AM UTC-7, stevenarguello wrote:
>
> I think that your loom is good, I wouldn’t mess with it anymore. The
> Bentley shows a circle around the signal wire where that ground meets the
> O2 signal wire instead of a splice and that’s what you have.  Maybe check
> to be sure that there’s no continuity between the ground and the O2 signal
> spade connector.
>
>
> On Mar 24, 2016, at 10:48 AM, Holland Phillips 
> wrote:
>
> The Motronic ECU does store codes. Since the OBD1 spec didn't go into
> effect until '95, code readers don't work on these cars. Connecting two
> leads to the proper positions of the connectors under the shifter boot and
> connecting a momentary switch to the other ends of the two leads, by using
> the switch to short the leads for a few seconds, the codes are shown by the
> check engine light flashing in various sequences. The Bentley explains all
> this and has a chart showing what the various codes indicate. I don't
> remember exactly where in the Bentley this procedure is, but it's in there
> somewhere.
>
> ~Holland
> On Mar 24, 2016 1:17 AM, "damac2004"  wrote:
>
> sorry just to make sure we are on the same page.  you are saying the 02
> sensor black connector is going into the loom to the ecu.  and the ground
> wire attached to the firewall is loose and surrounding the 02 sensor wire
> along the same path?  i am paranoid and want to see for myself and am
> tempted to cut further upstream to see.
>
> i thought i read about the codes and bought a cord on ebay to convert from
> a little plug underneath the shifter boot i believe that goes to an obd
> reader?  i

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

You're correct, there is no vacuum line attached to the ecu. But there is
definitely something that is supposed to be disconnected when setting base
timing. Since your chassis isn't a California car, there is probably a lot
of things that are different. Until the OBD2 spec came into effect in, I
think, '96, most new vehicles sold in the U.S. came in what was termed "49
state"  versions, and California versions. Thanks CARB & EPA. Now almost
all vehicles are "world spec", since the EU has become as emissions aware
as the U.S. has been for decades. They've even gone further with the
introduction of pedestrian accident requirements for front bumbers, which I
think the U.S. has or will be adopting.

~Holland
On Mar 24, 2016 18:53, "damac2004"  wrote:

> the 2.0 im shaft fit into my block but the matching big gear wouldn't fit
> in the smaller hole on the block that mates with the oil pump so i still
> don't understand whats going on with this, but if i pass smog i won't care
> :)
>
> unless i am missing something all i see for timing this car is to heat it
> up with a fan cycle and go.  no disconnecting the cts or revving like some
> others???  i don't have any vacuum line on my ecu either.
>
> bently has a blurb that distributor bearings might be messed up if timing
> wanders, ugh.  maybe i had the bolts too loose i will go out and try and
> tighten them and see.
>
> i see no engine light in my cluster either and the last smog guy i went to
> was asking me where it was!!!  its a non california car and i won't be
> going back to that guy.
>
> On Thursday, March 24, 2016 at 5:52:49 PM UTC-7, hollandphillips wrote:
>>
>> Two knock sensors means 2.0/9A block.
>> On the timing issue, there is something that needs to be disconnected
>> prior to using a timing light. I can't remember what exactly it is, but I
>> think it's a vacuum line somewhere. Again, that information is in the
>> Bentley. Once the whatever is disconnected, the timing should be steady
>> when viewed with the timing light.
>> The timing advance on Motronic cars is controlled by the ECU, which is
>> why initial setting of the timing requires disconnecting whatever it is the
>> Bentley tells you. They do connect a timing sensor to the number one
>> cylinder spark plug lead when running an emissions test in California.
>> Don't know if it's just for reference to the machine, or if they can
>> actually fail you if it's out of spec.
>>
>> ~Holland
>> On Mar 24, 2016 17:04, "damac2004"  wrote:
>>
>> ok so ground showed no continuity to that sensor wire.  it does with pin
>> 7 i believe on the ecu connector,  so i guess i am good.  i kept getting
>> confused because people were talking about an insulated wire and im
>> thinking a nasty cable like for tv.  when looking these guys over as is,
>> they don't seem special looking to me.
>>
>> also i looked over the car again and i do have 2 knock sensors.  they are
>> on the front of the block close to each, closer to cylinder #1.  they each
>> attach to a harness connector  that goes into the loom and to the ecu.  so
>> if i remember right people said 1.8 blocks don't have 2?  yet i couldn't
>> fit the larger im shaft gear into this block that mates to the oil pump it
>> had the smaller block off plate hole?  so still not sure what i have.  in
>> included a picture down below.  hopefully i won't need to care.
>>
>> here is a link to video of my first cold startup.   for some reason it
>> took like 5 times to start like there was no gas, fuel pump was making
>> noise.  then it started right up.  can anybody tell if it sounds ok?  i am
>> now having an issue with timing the car.  i tried cold and after a warmup
>> cycle and i cannot get the pointer to stay still with the light on?  it
>> kind of lines up with the diamond and then it will shoot off a little bit
>> off one way or the other.  if i go further either way from where it is now,
>> when it shoots off it tends to go in that direction more.  i tried
>> connecting the lead near the distributor cap and at the head.  it seems to
>> like this spot the best but im not sure how accurate it is.  im wondering
>> what impact this could have on smog if im a little off.  also not sure if
>> this means my car is having troubles or if my timing light is messed up.
>>
>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GB9yXn61pS8
>>
>>
>> 
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thursday, March 24, 2016 at 10:32:11 AM UTC-7, stevenarguello wrote:
>>
>> I think that your loom is good, I wouldn’t mess with it anymore. The
>> Bentley shows a circle around the signal wire where that ground meets the
>> O2 signal wire instead of a splice and that’s what you have.  Maybe check
>> to be sure that there’s no continuity between the ground and the O2 signal
>> spade connector.
>>
>>
>> On Mar 24, 2016, at 10:48 AM, Holland Phillips

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-03-24 Thread 'Josh Wyte' via MK2-16v

You sure?  My friends '92 corrado didn't have one.  I've never seen one in a 
16v GTi/GLi.  

I've never seen one until '93 and even then it had to be a late '93...

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 24, 2016, at 6:59 PM, Holland Phillips  
> wrote:
> 
> My '92 had an amber lindicator that was in the shape of an engine. I used to 
> check for codes using the method outlined in the Bentley, so I'm sure it was 
> there. Maybe I'm wrong about it looking like an engine, too much has happened 
> since the last time I worked on my car.
> 
> On Mar 24, 2016 17:29, 'Josh Wyte' via MK2-16v  
> wrote:
> Holland,
> 
> There is no check engine light.  VW didn't add one until 1993, my corrado slc 
> had one...
> 
> Josh
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Mar 24, 2016, at 6:04 PM, damac2004  wrote:
> 
> ok so ground showed no continuity to that sensor wire.  it does with pin 7 i 
> believe on the ecu connector,  so i guess i am good.  i kept getting confused 
> because people were talking about an insulated wire and im thinking a nasty 
> cable like for tv.  when looking these guys over as is, they don't seem 
> special looking to me.
> 
> also i looked over the car again and i do have 2 knock sensors.  they are on 
> the front of the block close to each, closer to cylinder #1.  they each 
> attach to a harness connector  that goes into the loom and to the ecu.  so if 
> i remember right people said 1.8 blocks don't have 2?  yet i couldn't fit the 
> larger im shaft gear into this block that mates to the oil pump it had the 
> smaller block off plate hole?  so still not sure what i have.  in included a 
> picture down below.  hopefully i won't need to care.
> 
> here is a link to video of my first cold startup.   for some reason it took 
> like 5 times to start like there was no gas, fuel pump was making noise.  
> then it started right up.  can anybody tell if it sounds ok?  i am now having 
> an issue with timing the car.  i tried cold and after a warmup cycle and i 
> cannot get the pointer to stay still with the light on?  it kind of lines up 
> with the diamond and then it will shoot off a little bit off one way or the 
> other.  if i go further either way from where it is now, when it shoots off 
> it tends to go in that direction more.  i tried connecting the lead near the 
> distributor cap and at the head.  it seems to like this spot the best but im 
> not sure how accurate it is.  im wondering what impact this could have on 
> smog if im a little off.  also not sure if this means my car is having 
> troubles or if my timing light is messed up.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GB9yXn61pS8
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Thursday, March 24, 2016 at 10:32:11 AM UTC-7, stevenarguello wrote:
> I think that your loom is good, I wouldn’t mess with it anymore. The Bentley 
> shows a circle around the signal wire where that ground meets the O2 signal 
> wire instead of a splice and that’s what you have.  Maybe check to be sure 
> that there’s no continuity between the ground and the O2 signal spade 
> connector. 
> 
> 
> On Mar 24, 2016, at 10:48 AM, Holland Phillips  wrote:
> 
> The Motronic ECU does store codes. Since the OBD1 spec didn't go into effect 
> until '95, code readers don't work on these cars. Connecting two leads to the 
> proper positions of the connectors under the shifter boot and connecting a 
> momentary switch to the other ends of the two leads, by using the switch to 
> short the leads for a few seconds, the codes are shown by the check engine 
> light flashing in various sequences. The Bentley explains all this and has a 
> chart showing what the various codes indicate. I don't remember exactly where 
> in the Bentley this procedure is, but it's in there somewhere. 
> 
> ~Holland
> 
> On Mar 24, 2016 1:17 AM, "damac2004"  wrote:
> sorry just to make sure we are on the same page.  you are saying the 02 
> sensor black connector is going into the loom to the ecu.  and the ground 
> wire attached to the firewall is loose and surrounding the 02 sensor wire 
> along the same path?  i am paranoid and want to see for myself and am tempted 
> to cut further upstream to see.
> 
> i thought i read about the codes and bought a cord on ebay to convert from a 
> little plug underneath the shifter boot i believe that goes to an obd reader? 
>  i will try it if i read right after i get the sucker going, had to rewire 
> the main power and grounds.  many wires have fallen to pieces just from 
> touching them.  scary stuff now that i look closer.
> 
> On Thursday, March 24, 2016 at 12:40:03 AM UTC-7, stevenarguello wrote:
> The picture looks just like what I thought it would, the signal wire is the 
> one with the connector, the one going to the ground is the shield. I think 
> that you're good to go. 
> I would have shown you my loom, but it's very different and I thought it'd 
> make things more

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

the 2.0 im shaft fit into my block but the matching big gear wouldn't fit 
in the smaller hole on the block that mates with the oil pump so i still 
don't understand whats going on with this, but if i pass smog i won't care 
:)

unless i am missing something all i see for timing this car is to heat it 
up with a fan cycle and go.  no disconnecting the cts or revving like some 
others???  i don't have any vacuum line on my ecu either.

bently has a blurb that distributor bearings might be messed up if timing 
wanders, ugh.  maybe i had the bolts too loose i will go out and try and 
tighten them and see.

i see no engine light in my cluster either and the last smog guy i went to 
was asking me where it was!!!  its a non california car and i won't be 
going back to that guy.

On Thursday, March 24, 2016 at 5:52:49 PM UTC-7, hollandphillips wrote:
>
> Two knock sensors means 2.0/9A block.
> On the timing issue, there is something that needs to be disconnected 
> prior to using a timing light. I can't remember what exactly it is, but I 
> think it's a vacuum line somewhere. Again, that information is in the 
> Bentley. Once the whatever is disconnected, the timing should be steady 
> when viewed with the timing light.
> The timing advance on Motronic cars is controlled by the ECU, which is why 
> initial setting of the timing requires disconnecting whatever it is the 
> Bentley tells you. They do connect a timing sensor to the number one 
> cylinder spark plug lead when running an emissions test in California. 
> Don't know if it's just for reference to the machine, or if they can 
> actually fail you if it's out of spec.
>
> ~Holland
> On Mar 24, 2016 17:04, "damac2004"  
> wrote:
>
> ok so ground showed no continuity to that sensor wire.  it does with pin 7 
> i believe on the ecu connector,  so i guess i am good.  i kept getting 
> confused because people were talking about an insulated wire and im 
> thinking a nasty cable like for tv.  when looking these guys over as is, 
> they don't seem special looking to me.
>
> also i looked over the car again and i do have 2 knock sensors.  they are 
> on the front of the block close to each, closer to cylinder #1.  they each 
> attach to a harness connector  that goes into the loom and to the ecu.  so 
> if i remember right people said 1.8 blocks don't have 2?  yet i couldn't 
> fit the larger im shaft gear into this block that mates to the oil pump it 
> had the smaller block off plate hole?  so still not sure what i have.  in 
> included a picture down below.  hopefully i won't need to care.
>
> here is a link to video of my first cold startup.   for some reason it 
> took like 5 times to start like there was no gas, fuel pump was making 
> noise.  then it started right up.  can anybody tell if it sounds ok?  i am 
> now having an issue with timing the car.  i tried cold and after a warmup 
> cycle and i cannot get the pointer to stay still with the light on?  it 
> kind of lines up with the diamond and then it will shoot off a little bit 
> off one way or the other.  if i go further either way from where it is now, 
> when it shoots off it tends to go in that direction more.  i tried 
> connecting the lead near the distributor cap and at the head.  it seems to 
> like this spot the best but im not sure how accurate it is.  im wondering 
> what impact this could have on smog if im a little off.  also not sure if 
> this means my car is having troubles or if my timing light is messed up.
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GB9yXn61pS8
>
>
> 
>
>
>
>
> On Thursday, March 24, 2016 at 10:32:11 AM UTC-7, stevenarguello wrote:
>
> I think that your loom is good, I wouldn’t mess with it anymore. The 
> Bentley shows a circle around the signal wire where that ground meets the 
> O2 signal wire instead of a splice and that’s what you have.  Maybe check 
> to be sure that there’s no continuity between the ground and the O2 signal 
> spade connector. 
>
>
> On Mar 24, 2016, at 10:48 AM, Holland Phillips  
> wrote:
>
> The Motronic ECU does store codes. Since the OBD1 spec didn't go into 
> effect until '95, code readers don't work on these cars. Connecting two 
> leads to the proper positions of the connectors under the shifter boot and 
> connecting a momentary switch to the other ends of the two leads, by using 
> the switch to short the leads for a few seconds, the codes are shown by the 
> check engine light flashing in various sequences. The Bentley explains all 
> this and has a chart showing what the various codes indicate. I don't 
> remember exactly where in the Bentley this procedure is, but it's in there 
> somewhere.  
>
> ~Holland
> On Mar 24, 2016 1:17 AM, "damac2004"  wrote:
>
> sorry just to make sure we are on the same page.  you are saying the 02 
> sensor black

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

My '92 had an amber lindicator that was in the shape of an engine. I used to check for codes using the method outlined in the Bentley, so I'm sure it was there. Maybe I'm wrong about it looking like an engine, too much has happened since the last time I worked on my car.
On Mar 24, 2016 17:29, 'Josh Wyte' via MK2-16v wrote:Holland,There is no check engine light. VW didn't add one until 1993, my corrado slc had one...JoshSent from my iPhoneOn Mar 24, 2016, at 6:04 PM, damac2004 wrote:ok so ground showed no continuity to that sensor wire. it does with pin 7 i believe on the ecu connector, so i guess i am good. i kept getting confused because people were talking about an insulated wire and im thinking a nasty cable like for tv. when looking these guys over as is, they don't seem special looking to me.also i looked over the car again and i do have 2 knock sensors. they are on the front of the block close to each, closer to cylinder #1. they each attach to a harness connector that goes into the loom and to the ecu. so if i remember right people said 1.8 blocks don't have 2? yet i couldn't fit the larger im shaft gear into this block that mates to the oil pump it had the smaller block off plate hole? so still not sure what i have. in included a picture down below. hopefully i won't need to care.here is a link to video of my first cold startup. for some reason it took like 5 times to start like there was no gas, fuel pump was making noise. then it started right up. can anybody tell if it sounds ok? i am now having an issue with timing the car. i tried cold and after a warmup cycle and i cannot get the pointer to stay still with the light on? it kind of lines up with the diamond and then it will shoot off a little bit off one way or the other. if i go further either way from where it is now, when it shoots off it tends to go in that direction more. i tried connecting the lead near the distributor cap and at the head. it seems to like this spot the best but im not sure how accurate it is. im wondering what impact this could have on smog if im a little off. also not sure if this means my car is having troubles or if my timing light is messed up.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GB9yXn61pS8On Thursday, March 24, 2016 at 10:32:11 AM UTC-7, stevenarguello wrote:I think that your loom is good, I wouldn’t mess with it anymore. The Bentley shows a circle around the signal wire where that ground meets the O2 signal wire instead of a splice and that’s what you have. Maybe check to be sure that there’s no continuity between the ground and the O2 signal spade connector. On Mar 24, 2016, at 10:48 AM, Holland Phillips wrote:The Motronic ECU does store codes. Since the OBD1 spec didn't go into effect until '95, code readers don't work on these cars. Connecting two leads to the proper positions of the connectors under the shifter boot and connecting a momentary switch to the other ends of the two leads, by using the switch to short the leads for a few seconds, the codes are shown by the check engine light flashing in various sequences. The Bentley explains all this and has a chart showing what the various codes indicate. I don't remember exactly where in the Bentley this procedure is, but it's in there somewhere. ~Holland
On Mar 24, 2016 1:17 AM, "damac2004" wrote:sorry just to make sure we are on the same page. you are saying the 02 sensor black connector is going into the loom to the ecu. and the ground wire attached to the firewall is loose and surrounding the 02 sensor wire along the same path? i am paranoid and want to see for myself and am tempted to cut further upstream to see.i thought i read about the codes and bought a cord on ebay to convert from a little plug underneath the shifter boot i believe that goes to an obd reader? i will try it if i read right after i get the sucker going, had to rewire the main power and grounds. many wires have fallen to pieces just from touching them. scary stuff now that i look closer.On Thursday, March 24, 2016 at 12:40:03 AM UTC-7, stevenarguello wrote:The picture looks just like what I thought it would, the signal wire is the one with the connector, the one going to the ground is the shield. I think that you're good to go. I would have shown you my loom, but it's very different and I thought it'd make things more confusing. Fire it up. One last thing, I'm pretty sure that your Motronic ecu has codes. I'm not sure how easy they are to read or if they help at all. On Mar 24, 2016, at 1:29 AM, damac2004 wrote:i forgot to add this picture. maybe i need to look closer but it looked like the connector wire is exposed and touching that main ground leg. is it possible the connector has its own cover and is running inside inside the ground run? i can try and cut some back and look at it. i was expecting a special looking wire,

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

Two knock sensors means 2.0/9A block.
On the timing issue, there is something that needs to be disconnected prior
to using a timing light. I can't remember what exactly it is, but I think
it's a vacuum line somewhere. Again, that information is in the Bentley.
Once the whatever is disconnected, the timing should be steady when viewed
with the timing light.
The timing advance on Motronic cars is controlled by the ECU, which is why
initial setting of the timing requires disconnecting whatever it is the
Bentley tells you. They do connect a timing sensor to the number one
cylinder spark plug lead when running an emissions test in California.
Don't know if it's just for reference to the machine, or if they can
actually fail you if it's out of spec.

~Holland
On Mar 24, 2016 17:04, "damac2004"  wrote:

> ok so ground showed no continuity to that sensor wire.  it does with pin 7
> i believe on the ecu connector,  so i guess i am good.  i kept getting
> confused because people were talking about an insulated wire and im
> thinking a nasty cable like for tv.  when looking these guys over as is,
> they don't seem special looking to me.
>
> also i looked over the car again and i do have 2 knock sensors.  they are
> on the front of the block close to each, closer to cylinder #1.  they each
> attach to a harness connector  that goes into the loom and to the ecu.  so
> if i remember right people said 1.8 blocks don't have 2?  yet i couldn't
> fit the larger im shaft gear into this block that mates to the oil pump it
> had the smaller block off plate hole?  so still not sure what i have.  in
> included a picture down below.  hopefully i won't need to care.
>
> here is a link to video of my first cold startup.   for some reason it
> took like 5 times to start like there was no gas, fuel pump was making
> noise.  then it started right up.  can anybody tell if it sounds ok?  i am
> now having an issue with timing the car.  i tried cold and after a warmup
> cycle and i cannot get the pointer to stay still with the light on?  it
> kind of lines up with the diamond and then it will shoot off a little bit
> off one way or the other.  if i go further either way from where it is now,
> when it shoots off it tends to go in that direction more.  i tried
> connecting the lead near the distributor cap and at the head.  it seems to
> like this spot the best but im not sure how accurate it is.  im wondering
> what impact this could have on smog if im a little off.  also not sure if
> this means my car is having troubles or if my timing light is messed up.
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GB9yXn61pS8
>
>
> 
>
>
>
>
> On Thursday, March 24, 2016 at 10:32:11 AM UTC-7, stevenarguello wrote:
>>
>> I think that your loom is good, I wouldn’t mess with it anymore. The
>> Bentley shows a circle around the signal wire where that ground meets the
>> O2 signal wire instead of a splice and that’s what you have.  Maybe check
>> to be sure that there’s no continuity between the ground and the O2 signal
>> spade connector.
>>
>>
>> On Mar 24, 2016, at 10:48 AM, Holland Phillips 
>> wrote:
>>
>> The Motronic ECU does store codes. Since the OBD1 spec didn't go into
>> effect until '95, code readers don't work on these cars. Connecting two
>> leads to the proper positions of the connectors under the shifter boot and
>> connecting a momentary switch to the other ends of the two leads, by using
>> the switch to short the leads for a few seconds, the codes are shown by the
>> check engine light flashing in various sequences. The Bentley explains all
>> this and has a chart showing what the various codes indicate. I don't
>> remember exactly where in the Bentley this procedure is, but it's in there
>> somewhere.
>>
>> ~Holland
>> On Mar 24, 2016 1:17 AM, "damac2004"  wrote:
>>
>> sorry just to make sure we are on the same page.  you are saying the 02
>> sensor black connector is going into the loom to the ecu.  and the ground
>> wire attached to the firewall is loose and surrounding the 02 sensor wire
>> along the same path?  i am paranoid and want to see for myself and am
>> tempted to cut further upstream to see.
>>
>> i thought i read about the codes and bought a cord on ebay to convert
>> from a little plug underneath the shifter boot i believe that goes to an
>> obd reader?  i will try it if i read right after i get the sucker going,
>> had to rewire the main power and grounds.  many wires have fallen to pieces
>> just from touching them.  scary stuff now that i look closer.
>>
>> On Thursday, March 24, 2016 at 12:40:03 AM UTC-7, stevenarguello wrote:
>>
>> The picture looks just like what I thought it would, the signal wire is
>> the one with the connector, the one going to the ground is the shield. I
>> think that you're good to go.
>> I would have shown

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-03-24 Thread 'Josh Wyte' via MK2-16v

Holland,

There is no check engine light.  VW didn't add one until 1993, my corrado slc 
had one...

Josh

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 24, 2016, at 6:04 PM, damac2004  wrote:
> 
> ok so ground showed no continuity to that sensor wire.  it does with pin 7 i 
> believe on the ecu connector,  so i guess i am good.  i kept getting confused 
> because people were talking about an insulated wire and im thinking a nasty 
> cable like for tv.  when looking these guys over as is, they don't seem 
> special looking to me.
> 
> also i looked over the car again and i do have 2 knock sensors.  they are on 
> the front of the block close to each, closer to cylinder #1.  they each 
> attach to a harness connector  that goes into the loom and to the ecu.  so if 
> i remember right people said 1.8 blocks don't have 2?  yet i couldn't fit the 
> larger im shaft gear into this block that mates to the oil pump it had the 
> smaller block off plate hole?  so still not sure what i have.  in included a 
> picture down below.  hopefully i won't need to care.
> 
> here is a link to video of my first cold startup.   for some reason it took 
> like 5 times to start like there was no gas, fuel pump was making noise.  
> then it started right up.  can anybody tell if it sounds ok?  i am now having 
> an issue with timing the car.  i tried cold and after a warmup cycle and i 
> cannot get the pointer to stay still with the light on?  it kind of lines up 
> with the diamond and then it will shoot off a little bit off one way or the 
> other.  if i go further either way from where it is now, when it shoots off 
> it tends to go in that direction more.  i tried connecting the lead near the 
> distributor cap and at the head.  it seems to like this spot the best but im 
> not sure how accurate it is.  im wondering what impact this could have on 
> smog if im a little off.  also not sure if this means my car is having 
> troubles or if my timing light is messed up.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GB9yXn61pS8
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Thursday, March 24, 2016 at 10:32:11 AM UTC-7, stevenarguello wrote:
>> I think that your loom is good, I wouldn’t mess with it anymore. The Bentley 
>> shows a circle around the signal wire where that ground meets the O2 signal 
>> wire instead of a splice and that’s what you have.  Maybe check to be sure 
>> that there’s no continuity between the ground and the O2 signal spade 
>> connector. 
>> 
>> 
>> On Mar 24, 2016, at 10:48 AM, Holland Phillips  wrote:
>> 
>> The Motronic ECU does store codes. Since the OBD1 spec didn't go into effect 
>> until '95, code readers don't work on these cars. Connecting two leads to 
>> the proper positions of the connectors under the shifter boot and connecting 
>> a momentary switch to the other ends of the two leads, by using the switch 
>> to short the leads for a few seconds, the codes are shown by the check 
>> engine light flashing in various sequences. The Bentley explains all this 
>> and has a chart showing what the various codes indicate. I don't remember 
>> exactly where in the Bentley this procedure is, but it's in there somewhere. 
>> 
>> ~Holland
>> 
>> On Mar 24, 2016 1:17 AM, "damac2004"  wrote:
>> sorry just to make sure we are on the same page.  you are saying the 02 
>> sensor black connector is going into the loom to the ecu.  and the ground 
>> wire attached to the firewall is loose and surrounding the 02 sensor wire 
>> along the same path?  i am paranoid and want to see for myself and am 
>> tempted to cut further upstream to see.
>> 
>> i thought i read about the codes and bought a cord on ebay to convert from a 
>> little plug underneath the shifter boot i believe that goes to an obd 
>> reader?  i will try it if i read right after i get the sucker going, had to 
>> rewire the main power and grounds.  many wires have fallen to pieces just 
>> from touching them.  scary stuff now that i look closer.
>> 
>> On Thursday, March 24, 2016 at 12:40:03 AM UTC-7, stevenarguello wrote:
>> The picture looks just like what I thought it would, the signal wire is the 
>> one with the connector, the one going to the ground is the shield. I think 
>> that you're good to go. 
>> I would have shown you my loom, but it's very different and I thought it'd 
>> make things more confusing. 
>> 
>> Fire it up. 
>> 
>> One last thing, I'm pretty sure that your Motronic ecu has codes. I'm not 
>> sure how easy they are to read or if they help at all. 
>> 
>> On Mar 24, 2016, at 1:29 AM, damac2004  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> i forgot to add this picture.  maybe i need to look closer but it looked 
>> like the connector wire is exposed and touching that main ground leg.  is it 
>> possible the connector has its own cover and is running inside inside the 
>> ground run?  i can try and cut some back and look at it.  i was expecting a 
>> special looking wire, my connector

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

ok so ground showed no continuity to that sensor wire.  it does with pin 7 
i believe on the ecu connector,  so i guess i am good.  i kept getting 
confused because people were talking about an insulated wire and im 
thinking a nasty cable like for tv.  when looking these guys over as is, 
they don't seem special looking to me.

also i looked over the car again and i do have 2 knock sensors.  they are 
on the front of the block close to each, closer to cylinder #1.  they each 
attach to a harness connector  that goes into the loom and to the ecu.  so 
if i remember right people said 1.8 blocks don't have 2?  yet i couldn't 
fit the larger im shaft gear into this block that mates to the oil pump it 
had the smaller block off plate hole?  so still not sure what i have.  in 
included a picture down below.  hopefully i won't need to care.

here is a link to video of my first cold startup.   for some reason it took 
like 5 times to start like there was no gas, fuel pump was making noise. 
 then it started right up.  can anybody tell if it sounds ok?  i am now 
having an issue with timing the car.  i tried cold and after a warmup cycle 
and i cannot get the pointer to stay still with the light on?  it kind of 
lines up with the diamond and then it will shoot off a little bit off one 
way or the other.  if i go further either way from where it is now, when it 
shoots off it tends to go in that direction more.  i tried connecting the 
lead near the distributor cap and at the head.  it seems to like this spot 
the best but im not sure how accurate it is.  im wondering what impact this 
could have on smog if im a little off.  also not sure if this means my car 
is having troubles or if my timing light is messed up.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GB9yXn61pS8

On Thursday, March 24, 2016 at 10:32:11 AM UTC-7, stevenarguello wrote:
>
> I think that your loom is good, I wouldn’t mess with it anymore. The 
> Bentley shows a circle around the signal wire where that ground meets the 
> O2 signal wire instead of a splice and that’s what you have.  Maybe check 
> to be sure that there’s no continuity between the ground and the O2 signal 
> spade connector. 
>
>
> On Mar 24, 2016, at 10:48 AM, Holland Phillips  > wrote:
>
> The Motronic ECU does store codes. Since the OBD1 spec didn't go into 
> effect until '95, code readers don't work on these cars. Connecting two 
> leads to the proper positions of the connectors under the shifter boot and 
> connecting a momentary switch to the other ends of the two leads, by using 
> the switch to short the leads for a few seconds, the codes are shown by the 
> check engine light flashing in various sequences. The Bentley explains all 
> this and has a chart showing what the various codes indicate. I don't 
> remember exactly where in the Bentley this procedure is, but it's in there 
> somewhere.  
>
> ~Holland
> On Mar 24, 2016 1:17 AM, "damac2004"  
> wrote:
>
> sorry just to make sure we are on the same page.  you are saying the 02 
> sensor black connector is going into the loom to the ecu.  and the ground 
> wire attached to the firewall is loose and surrounding the 02 sensor wire 
> along the same path?  i am paranoid and want to see for myself and am 
> tempted to cut further upstream to see.
>
> i thought i read about the codes and bought a cord on ebay to convert from 
> a little plug underneath the shifter boot i believe that goes to an obd 
> reader?  i will try it if i read right after i get the sucker going, had to 
> rewire the main power and grounds.  many wires have fallen to pieces just 
> from touching them.  scary stuff now that i look closer.
>
> On Thursday, March 24, 2016 at 12:40:03 AM UTC-7, stevenarguello wrote:
>
> The picture looks just like what I thought it would, the signal wire is 
> the one with the connector, the one going to the ground is the shield. I 
> think that you're good to go. 
> I would have shown you my loom, but it's very different and I thought it'd 
> make things more confusing. 
>
> Fire it up. 
>
> One last thing, I'm pretty sure that your Motronic ecu has codes. I'm not 
> sure how easy they are to read or if they help at all. 
>
> On Mar 24, 2016, at 1:29 AM, damac2004  wrote:
>
>
>
> i forgot to add this picture.  maybe i need to look closer but it looked 
> like the connector wire is exposed and touching that main ground leg.  is 
> it possible the connector has its own cover and is running inside inside 
> the ground run?  i can try and cut some back and look at it.  i was 
> expecting a special looking wire, my connector wire doesn't look special?
>
>
> i don't really understand how to read the bently.  this is the only wire i 
> see connected in the 20 pages to the firewall ground on that side.  it 
> doesn't show a straight run to

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

n't going to run right. But at least
>> you've resolved a lot of your issues. I'm happy for you.
>>
>> ~Holland
>> On Mar 19, 2016 01:38, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>
>> well i capped off one hole with a bolt/washer and the other with a thick
>> plate and gasket.  turned the key once to hear the pump prime and then
>> tried to start the car and it started right up and idled a bit less than
>> 900 rpm i think.
>>
>> wow do i feel stupid.
>>
>> i got various little things to fix after poking around but my next
>> problem is the cat/02 sensor.  i'm going to start fresh with my new cat and
>> 02 sensor at this point.  i assumed the wiring was ok but noticed some
>> previous owner electrical tape and there are numerous wires tied together
>> into a bundle thats hooking up to a ground on the passenger firewall.  this
>> includes a single wire that is zip tied to the outside of the loom coming
>> from the drivers side.  halfway it turns from black to brown with vw
>> plastic connectors.
>>
>> seems a little goofy at face value to have a single wire shoot all the
>> way over there for ground right where all those wires meet. i have to look
>> closer but i think something is screwed up if im reading right the 2nd 02
>> sensor connector is a heater wire NOT ground?  the other harness with 2
>> white wires goes into the loom.
>>
>> i have a feeling car isn't even getting a signal from 02 sensor so i need
>> to get that straight before installing new one.
>>
>> i had the distributor at the old setups marks, i will have to time it
>> tomorrow i couldn't actually see the marks well when trying the timing
>> light in the dark tonight.  car runs and is revving out with the stock
>> chip/cams, etc. but i noticed right away when i stab the throttle and it
>> comes off the idle switch there was a slight gurgle and then it revs out
>> but is reacting to pedal.   i'm hoping it needs to be timed and that will
>> help.
>>
>> On Wednesday, March 16, 2016 at 7:56:36 PM UTC-7, damac2004 wrote:
>>
>> oh boy i am feeling stupid and think i have found the smoking gun here.
>>
>> is it possible that having 2 open holes on the back of the intake
>> manifold made the car act this way?
>>
>> this is not a california chasis so no egr stuff.  when i pulled the euro
>> manifold one hole had a bolt stuck through it with rtv and another hole was
>> held by bolts and gasket.
>>
>> when i was transferring everything over to the stock manifold i remember
>> poking down the hole with brake cleaner hose and hit what i thought was
>> solid wall on each.  at the time never seeing egr stuff assumed it maybe
>> would be drilled out for a car that needed that hardware.
>>
>> i had filled the holes up with brake cleaner with that side up and don't
>> think i paid close enough attention so this whole time it was installed on
>> the car like that.
>>
>> tonight as i went to transfer the old parts back on as my last hope
>> effort i noticed some leakage when spraying brake cleaner and a light bulb
>> went off.  so with those holes up if i spray one hole it fills the other
>> hole up.  if you leave the manifold sit the level of fluid just sits there.
>>  when i went to tilt sideways one way nothing happened but leaking out the
>> top.  when i tilted the other way 2 of the runners leaked the fluid out.
>>
>> i don't know these cars at all.  since the car wasn't running right i
>> never wanted to let it run long since it wasn't acting like a real car.  my
>> mom was watching and said i see some smoke and it sounds funny but of
>> course i told her its just stuff burning off and that it wasn't running
>> right.  couldn't really take a chance to look or feel closer.
>>
>> i have seen people mention these cars can run crappy with vac leaks and
>> they don't run without the intake tubes attached?  i'm hoping this is what
>> it was.  going to make some block off plates and gasket to seal those 2
>> holes up tight and then install all the old parts on it and hope like magic
>> its back to normal and then i can smog it.
>>
>> On Tuesday, March 1, 2016 at 10:41:38 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>>
>> I just thought of something. Any chance the fuel in the tank could be
>> contaminated? Since I think you said you're in California, the fuel here is
>> probably the worst in the U.S.. With the ethanol and other crazy additives
>> that's in it, it has an extremely short shelf life.
>> An other thing, I wonder how the fuel pumps are? If either the ma

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

reading right the 2nd 02 
> sensor connector is a heater wire NOT ground?  the other harness with 2 
> white wires goes into the loom.
>
> i have a feeling car isn't even getting a signal from 02 sensor so i need 
> to get that straight before installing new one.
>
> i had the distributor at the old setups marks, i will have to time it 
> tomorrow i couldn't actually see the marks well when trying the timing 
> light in the dark tonight.  car runs and is revving out with the stock 
> chip/cams, etc. but i noticed right away when i stab the throttle and it 
> comes off the idle switch there was a slight gurgle and then it revs out 
> but is reacting to pedal.   i'm hoping it needs to be timed and that will 
> help.  
>
> On Wednesday, March 16, 2016 at 7:56:36 PM UTC-7, damac2004 wrote:
>
> oh boy i am feeling stupid and think i have found the smoking gun here.
>
> is it possible that having 2 open holes on the back of the intake manifold 
> made the car act this way?
>
> this is not a california chasis so no egr stuff.  when i pulled the euro 
> manifold one hole had a bolt stuck through it with rtv and another hole was 
> held by bolts and gasket.
>
> when i was transferring everything over to the stock manifold i remember 
> poking down the hole with brake cleaner hose and hit what i thought was 
> solid wall on each.  at the time never seeing egr stuff assumed it maybe 
> would be drilled out for a car that needed that hardware.
>
> i had filled the holes up with brake cleaner with that side up and don't 
> think i paid close enough attention so this whole time it was installed on 
> the car like that.
>
> tonight as i went to transfer the old parts back on as my last hope effort 
> i noticed some leakage when spraying brake cleaner and a light bulb went 
> off.  so with those holes up if i spray one hole it fills the other hole 
> up.  if you leave the manifold sit the level of fluid just sits there. 
>  when i went to tilt sideways one way nothing happened but leaking out the 
> top.  when i tilted the other way 2 of the runners leaked the fluid out.
>
> i don't know these cars at all.  since the car wasn't running right i 
> never wanted to let it run long since it wasn't acting like a real car.  my 
> mom was watching and said i see some smoke and it sounds funny but of 
> course i told her its just stuff burning off and that it wasn't running 
> right.  couldn't really take a chance to look or feel closer.
>
> i have seen people mention these cars can run crappy with vac leaks and 
> they don't run without the intake tubes attached?  i'm hoping this is what 
> it was.  going to make some block off plates and gasket to seal those 2 
> holes up tight and then install all the old parts on it and hope like magic 
> its back to normal and then i can smog it.
>
> On Tuesday, March 1, 2016 at 10:41:38 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>
> I just thought of something. Any chance the fuel in the tank could be 
> contaminated? Since I think you said you're in California, the fuel here is 
> probably the worst in the U.S.. With the ethanol and other crazy additives 
> that's in it, it has an extremely short shelf life. 
> An other thing, I wonder how the fuel pumps are? If either the main or 
> transfer pump aren't healthy, that can cause weird running problems. The 
> easiest way to check the pumps is to disconnect the input line at the fuel 
> distributor and have someone turn on the ignition for a second. You should 
> get a really healthy stream of fuel. As I recall, the main pump operates at 
> around 50psi, give or take. 
> We're reaching for straws at this point, so the more you check that looks 
> correct, that's fewer possibilities to deal with. 
>
> ~Holland
> On Mar 1, 2016 10:15, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com> wrote:
>
> I just checked and Marren is still in business and still rebuilding 
> injectors of all ages: 
>
>  
>
> https://www.injector.com/ 
>
>  
>
> https://www.facebook.com/MarrenFuelInjection/ 
>
>  
>
> -Larry
>
>  
>
> *From:* mk2...@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2...@googlegroups.com] *On 
> Behalf Of *Holland Phillips
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 1, 2016 12:56 PM
> *To:* mk2...@googlegroups.com
> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
>
>  
>
> I agree with you Chad. At this point, I would perform a compression test. 
> If that looks good, then I'm at a loss as to where to go next. Maybe look 
> at the injectors. It's probably easier and cheaper to try and find some 
> used, hopefully known good injectors, even if it's only one. Then you could 
> swap them one at a time and see if you find a bad one. There are a couple 
> of companies that do balancing and bluep

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-03-23 Thread Holland Phillips

th the stock
>> chip/cams, etc. but i noticed right away when i stab the throttle and it
>> comes off the idle switch there was a slight gurgle and then it revs out
>> but is reacting to pedal.   i'm hoping it needs to be timed and that will
>> help.
>>
>> On Wednesday, March 16, 2016 at 7:56:36 PM UTC-7, damac2004 wrote:
>>
>> oh boy i am feeling stupid and think i have found the smoking gun here.
>>
>> is it possible that having 2 open holes on the back of the intake
>> manifold made the car act this way?
>>
>> this is not a california chasis so no egr stuff.  when i pulled the euro
>> manifold one hole had a bolt stuck through it with rtv and another hole was
>> held by bolts and gasket.
>>
>> when i was transferring everything over to the stock manifold i remember
>> poking down the hole with brake cleaner hose and hit what i thought was
>> solid wall on each.  at the time never seeing egr stuff assumed it maybe
>> would be drilled out for a car that needed that hardware.
>>
>> i had filled the holes up with brake cleaner with that side up and don't
>> think i paid close enough attention so this whole time it was installed on
>> the car like that.
>>
>> tonight as i went to transfer the old parts back on as my last hope
>> effort i noticed some leakage when spraying brake cleaner and a light bulb
>> went off.  so with those holes up if i spray one hole it fills the other
>> hole up.  if you leave the manifold sit the level of fluid just sits there.
>>  when i went to tilt sideways one way nothing happened but leaking out the
>> top.  when i tilted the other way 2 of the runners leaked the fluid out.
>>
>> i don't know these cars at all.  since the car wasn't running right i
>> never wanted to let it run long since it wasn't acting like a real car.  my
>> mom was watching and said i see some smoke and it sounds funny but of
>> course i told her its just stuff burning off and that it wasn't running
>> right.  couldn't really take a chance to look or feel closer.
>>
>> i have seen people mention these cars can run crappy with vac leaks and
>> they don't run without the intake tubes attached?  i'm hoping this is what
>> it was.  going to make some block off plates and gasket to seal those 2
>> holes up tight and then install all the old parts on it and hope like magic
>> its back to normal and then i can smog it.
>>
>> On Tuesday, March 1, 2016 at 10:41:38 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>>
>> I just thought of something. Any chance the fuel in the tank could be
>> contaminated? Since I think you said you're in California, the fuel here is
>> probably the worst in the U.S.. With the ethanol and other crazy additives
>> that's in it, it has an extremely short shelf life.
>> An other thing, I wonder how the fuel pumps are? If either the main or
>> transfer pump aren't healthy, that can cause weird running problems. The
>> easiest way to check the pumps is to disconnect the input line at the fuel
>> distributor and have someone turn on the ignition for a second. You should
>> get a really healthy stream of fuel. As I recall, the main pump operates at
>> around 50psi, give or take.
>> We're reaching for straws at this point, so the more you check that looks
>> correct, that's fewer possibilities to deal with.
>>
>> ~Holland
>> On Mar 1, 2016 10:15, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com> wrote:
>>
>> I just checked and Marren is still in business and still rebuilding
>> injectors of all ages:
>>
>>
>>
>> https://www.injector.com/
>>
>>
>>
>> https://www.facebook.com/MarrenFuelInjection/
>>
>>
>>
>> -Larry
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* mk2...@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2...@googlegroups.com] *On
>> Behalf Of *Holland Phillips
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 1, 2016 12:56 PM
>> *To:* mk2...@googlegroups.com
>> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
>>
>>
>>
>> I agree with you Chad. At this point, I would perform a compression test.
>> If that looks good, then I'm at a loss as to where to go next. Maybe look
>> at the injectors. It's probably easier and cheaper to try and find some
>> used, hopefully known good injectors, even if it's only one. Then you could
>> swap them one at a time and see if you find a bad one. There are a couple
>> of companies that do balancing and blueprinting of Motronic injectors. I
>> had mine done by Marren Motorsports back in the mid '90's, so I don't know
>> if they're still in business. They could perform ju

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-03-23 Thread damac2004

 i went to transfer the old parts back on as my last hope effort 
> i noticed some leakage when spraying brake cleaner and a light bulb went 
> off.  so with those holes up if i spray one hole it fills the other hole 
> up.  if you leave the manifold sit the level of fluid just sits there. 
>  when i went to tilt sideways one way nothing happened but leaking out the 
> top.  when i tilted the other way 2 of the runners leaked the fluid out.
>
> i don't know these cars at all.  since the car wasn't running right i 
> never wanted to let it run long since it wasn't acting like a real car.  my 
> mom was watching and said i see some smoke and it sounds funny but of 
> course i told her its just stuff burning off and that it wasn't running 
> right.  couldn't really take a chance to look or feel closer.
>
> i have seen people mention these cars can run crappy with vac leaks and 
> they don't run without the intake tubes attached?  i'm hoping this is what 
> it was.  going to make some block off plates and gasket to seal those 2 
> holes up tight and then install all the old parts on it and hope like magic 
> its back to normal and then i can smog it.
>
> On Tuesday, March 1, 2016 at 10:41:38 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>
> I just thought of something. Any chance the fuel in the tank could be 
> contaminated? Since I think you said you're in California, the fuel here is 
> probably the worst in the U.S.. With the ethanol and other crazy additives 
> that's in it, it has an extremely short shelf life. 
> An other thing, I wonder how the fuel pumps are? If either the main or 
> transfer pump aren't healthy, that can cause weird running problems. The 
> easiest way to check the pumps is to disconnect the input line at the fuel 
> distributor and have someone turn on the ignition for a second. You should 
> get a really healthy stream of fuel. As I recall, the main pump operates at 
> around 50psi, give or take. 
> We're reaching for straws at this point, so the more you check that looks 
> correct, that's fewer possibilities to deal with. 
>
> ~Holland
> On Mar 1, 2016 10:15, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com> wrote:
>
> I just checked and Marren is still in business and still rebuilding 
> injectors of all ages: 
>
>  
>
> https://www.injector.com/ 
>
>  
>
> https://www.facebook.com/MarrenFuelInjection/ 
>
>  
>
> -Larry
>
>  
>
> *From:* mk2...@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2...@googlegroups.com] *On 
> Behalf Of *Holland Phillips
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 1, 2016 12:56 PM
> *To:* mk2...@googlegroups.com
> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
>
>  
>
> I agree with you Chad. At this point, I would perform a compression test. 
> If that looks good, then I'm at a loss as to where to go next. Maybe look 
> at the injectors. It's probably easier and cheaper to try and find some 
> used, hopefully known good injectors, even if it's only one. Then you could 
> swap them one at a time and see if you find a bad one. There are a couple 
> of companies that do balancing and blueprinting of Motronic injectors. I 
> had mine done by Marren Motorsports back in the mid '90's, so I don't know 
> if they're still in business. They could perform just testing to check for 
> flow and pattern.
> Beyond that, I just don't know. 
>
> ~Holland
>
> On Feb 29, 2016 18:21, "Chad Rebuck" <chadr...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> The key in the cam gear is only there for the alignment until the bolt is 
> tightened. It doesn't really hold the cam gear in place once the bolt is 
> tightened.  Same for the crank pulley too.  The key can break if the bolt 
> gets loose enough for it to turn.  
>
> I'm just curious how the engine sounds as you said it ran smoother for a 
> short while when you opened up the throttle.
>
> I'm about out of ideas.  If you take it to a shop the first thing they're 
> going to do is check the timing again and check the compression I bet.
>
> On Feb 29, 2016 9:05 PM, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> im afraid to run this car for long but what would be better, a video from 
> the engine bay or tailpipe?
>
>  
>
> i didn't change the plug order, etc. when doing all this work, just popped 
> the distributor off and layed it in engine bay with battery out.
>
>  
>
> the cam i took off the car did have the cam gear tooth broken but it 
> didn't move based on how the keyway lined up, is that surprising?  i bought 
> another cam pulley off a vortex member and he sold it to me the exact same 
> way and told me every one he has taken off came the same way?  i thought 
> that was nuts but have seen through forums searching it has happened t

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-03-23 Thread Steven Arguello

al and then i can smog it.
> 
> On Tuesday, March 1, 2016 at 10:41:38 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
> I just thought of something. Any chance the fuel in the tank could be 
> contaminated? Since I think you said you're in California, the fuel here is 
> probably the worst in the U.S.. With the ethanol and other crazy additives 
> that's in it, it has an extremely short shelf life. 
> An other thing, I wonder how the fuel pumps are? If either the main or 
> transfer pump aren't healthy, that can cause weird running problems. The 
> easiest way to check the pumps is to disconnect the input line at the fuel 
> distributor and have someone turn on the ignition for a second. You should 
> get a really healthy stream of fuel. As I recall, the main pump operates at 
> around 50psi, give or take. 
> We're reaching for straws at this point, so the more you check that looks 
> correct, that's fewer possibilities to deal with.
> 
> ~Holland
> 
> On Mar 1, 2016 10:15, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com> wrote:
> I just checked and Marren is still in business and still rebuilding injectors 
> of all ages:
> 
>  
> 
> https://www.injector.com/
> 
>  
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/MarrenFuelInjection/
> 
>  
> 
> -Larry
> 
>  
> 
> From: mk2...@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of 
> Holland Phillips
> Sent: Tuesday, March 1, 2016 12:56 PM
> To: mk2...@googlegroups.com
> Subject: Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
> 
>  
> 
> I agree with you Chad. At this point, I would perform a compression test. If 
> that looks good, then I'm at a loss as to where to go next. Maybe look at the 
> injectors. It's probably easier and cheaper to try and find some used, 
> hopefully known good injectors, even if it's only one. Then you could swap 
> them one at a time and see if you find a bad one. There are a couple of 
> companies that do balancing and blueprinting of Motronic injectors. I had 
> mine done by Marren Motorsports back in the mid '90's, so I don't know if 
> they're still in business. They could perform just testing to check for flow 
> and pattern.
> Beyond that, I just don't know.
> 
> ~Holland
> 
> On Feb 29, 2016 18:21, "Chad Rebuck" <chadr...@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> The key in the cam gear is only there for the alignment until the bolt is 
> tightened. It doesn't really hold the cam gear in place once the bolt is 
> tightened.  Same for the crank pulley too.  The key can break if the bolt 
> gets loose enough for it to turn. 
> 
> I'm just curious how the engine sounds as you said it ran smoother for a 
> short while when you opened up the throttle.
> 
> I'm about out of ideas.  If you take it to a shop the first thing they're 
> going to do is check the timing again and check the compression I bet.
> 
> On Feb 29, 2016 9:05 PM, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> 
> im afraid to run this car for long but what would be better, a video from the 
> engine bay or tailpipe?
> 
>  
> 
> i didn't change the plug order, etc. when doing all this work, just popped 
> the distributor off and layed it in engine bay with battery out.
> 
>  
> 
> the cam i took off the car did have the cam gear tooth broken but it didn't 
> move based on how the keyway lined up, is that surprising?  i bought another 
> cam pulley off a vortex member and he sold it to me the exact same way and 
> told me every one he has taken off came the same way?  i thought that was 
> nuts but have seen through forums searching it has happened to others.  i got 
> a new cam pulley while doing all this work and its still fine.  and i have to 
> assume the crank is fine as well since it was good running and all the marks 
> are lining up correctly still.
> 
> On Monday, February 29, 2016 at 5:56:38 PM UTC-8, chadrebuck wrote:
> 
> Also check that the cam sprocket is located in the right place on the cam. If 
> the tooth broke off of the cam gear then it could rotate causing the timing 
> to be incorrect. Did you mention that the cam sprocket had a broken locating 
> tooth?
> 
> On Feb 29, 2016 7:47 PM, "Chad Rebuck" <chadr...@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Changing the cams out will be a waste of time. What did you do to verify the 
> spark plug wire order? Can you take a video of how the car is running?
> 
> On Feb 29, 2016 7:39 PM, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> 
> i put the techtronics chip back in and put the older throttle body back in 
> with no changes in how the car is acting.  i also checked grounds and ran 
> some extras to the bundle on head, etc. just in case.
> 
>  
> 
> my issues make for a

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-03-23 Thread Holland Phillips

n't know these cars at all.  since the car wasn't running right i
>> never wanted to let it run long since it wasn't acting like a real car.  my
>> mom was watching and said i see some smoke and it sounds funny but of
>> course i told her its just stuff burning off and that it wasn't running
>> right.  couldn't really take a chance to look or feel closer.
>>
>> i have seen people mention these cars can run crappy with vac leaks and
>> they don't run without the intake tubes attached?  i'm hoping this is what
>> it was.  going to make some block off plates and gasket to seal those 2
>> holes up tight and then install all the old parts on it and hope like magic
>> its back to normal and then i can smog it.
>>
>> On Tuesday, March 1, 2016 at 10:41:38 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>>
>> I just thought of something. Any chance the fuel in the tank could be
>> contaminated? Since I think you said you're in California, the fuel here is
>> probably the worst in the U.S.. With the ethanol and other crazy additives
>> that's in it, it has an extremely short shelf life.
>> An other thing, I wonder how the fuel pumps are? If either the main or
>> transfer pump aren't healthy, that can cause weird running problems. The
>> easiest way to check the pumps is to disconnect the input line at the fuel
>> distributor and have someone turn on the ignition for a second. You should
>> get a really healthy stream of fuel. As I recall, the main pump operates at
>> around 50psi, give or take.
>> We're reaching for straws at this point, so the more you check that looks
>> correct, that's fewer possibilities to deal with.
>>
>> ~Holland
>> On Mar 1, 2016 10:15, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com> wrote:
>>
>> I just checked and Marren is still in business and still rebuilding
>> injectors of all ages:
>>
>>
>>
>> https://www.injector.com/
>>
>>
>>
>> https://www.facebook.com/MarrenFuelInjection/
>>
>>
>>
>> -Larry
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* mk2...@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2...@googlegroups.com] *On
>> Behalf Of *Holland Phillips
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 1, 2016 12:56 PM
>> *To:* mk2...@googlegroups.com
>> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
>>
>>
>>
>> I agree with you Chad. At this point, I would perform a compression test.
>> If that looks good, then I'm at a loss as to where to go next. Maybe look
>> at the injectors. It's probably easier and cheaper to try and find some
>> used, hopefully known good injectors, even if it's only one. Then you could
>> swap them one at a time and see if you find a bad one. There are a couple
>> of companies that do balancing and blueprinting of Motronic injectors. I
>> had mine done by Marren Motorsports back in the mid '90's, so I don't know
>> if they're still in business. They could perform just testing to check for
>> flow and pattern.
>> Beyond that, I just don't know.
>>
>> ~Holland
>>
>> On Feb 29, 2016 18:21, "Chad Rebuck" <chadr...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> The key in the cam gear is only there for the alignment until the bolt is
>> tightened. It doesn't really hold the cam gear in place once the bolt is
>> tightened.  Same for the crank pulley too.  The key can break if the bolt
>> gets loose enough for it to turn.
>>
>> I'm just curious how the engine sounds as you said it ran smoother for a
>> short while when you opened up the throttle.
>>
>> I'm about out of ideas.  If you take it to a shop the first thing they're
>> going to do is check the timing again and check the compression I bet.
>>
>> On Feb 29, 2016 9:05 PM, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>
>> im afraid to run this car for long but what would be better, a video from
>> the engine bay or tailpipe?
>>
>>
>>
>> i didn't change the plug order, etc. when doing all this work, just
>> popped the distributor off and layed it in engine bay with battery out.
>>
>>
>>
>> the cam i took off the car did have the cam gear tooth broken but it
>> didn't move based on how the keyway lined up, is that surprising?  i bought
>> another cam pulley off a vortex member and he sold it to me the exact same
>> way and told me every one he has taken off came the same way?  i thought
>> that was nuts but have seen through forums searching it has happened to
>> others.  i got a new cam pulley while doing all this work and its still
>> fine.  and i have to assume the crank is fine as wel

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-03-23 Thread damac2004

ing problems. The 
> easiest way to check the pumps is to disconnect the input line at the fuel 
> distributor and have someone turn on the ignition for a second. You should 
> get a really healthy stream of fuel. As I recall, the main pump operates at 
> around 50psi, give or take. 
> We're reaching for straws at this point, so the more you check that looks 
> correct, that's fewer possibilities to deal with. 
>
> ~Holland
> On Mar 1, 2016 10:15, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com> wrote:
>
> I just checked and Marren is still in business and still rebuilding 
> injectors of all ages: 
>
>  
>
> https://www.injector.com/ 
>
>  
>
> https://www.facebook.com/MarrenFuelInjection/ 
>
>  
>
> -Larry
>
>  
>
> *From:* mk2...@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2...@googlegroups.com] *On 
> Behalf Of *Holland Phillips
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 1, 2016 12:56 PM
> *To:* mk2...@googlegroups.com
> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
>
>  
>
> I agree with you Chad. At this point, I would perform a compression test. 
> If that looks good, then I'm at a loss as to where to go next. Maybe look 
> at the injectors. It's probably easier and cheaper to try and find some 
> used, hopefully known good injectors, even if it's only one. Then you could 
> swap them one at a time and see if you find a bad one. There are a couple 
> of companies that do balancing and blueprinting of Motronic injectors. I 
> had mine done by Marren Motorsports back in the mid '90's, so I don't know 
> if they're still in business. They could perform just testing to check for 
> flow and pattern.
> Beyond that, I just don't know. 
>
> ~Holland
>
> On Feb 29, 2016 18:21, "Chad Rebuck" <chadr...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> The key in the cam gear is only there for the alignment until the bolt is 
> tightened. It doesn't really hold the cam gear in place once the bolt is 
> tightened.  Same for the crank pulley too.  The key can break if the bolt 
> gets loose enough for it to turn.  
>
> I'm just curious how the engine sounds as you said it ran smoother for a 
> short while when you opened up the throttle.
>
> I'm about out of ideas.  If you take it to a shop the first thing they're 
> going to do is check the timing again and check the compression I bet.
>
> On Feb 29, 2016 9:05 PM, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> im afraid to run this car for long but what would be better, a video from 
> the engine bay or tailpipe?
>
>  
>
> i didn't change the plug order, etc. when doing all this work, just popped 
> the distributor off and layed it in engine bay with battery out.
>
>  
>
> the cam i took off the car did have the cam gear tooth broken but it 
> didn't move based on how the keyway lined up, is that surprising?  i bought 
> another cam pulley off a vortex member and he sold it to me the exact same 
> way and told me every one he has taken off came the same way?  i thought 
> that was nuts but have seen through forums searching it has happened to 
> others.  i got a new cam pulley while doing all this work and its still 
> fine.  and i have to assume the crank is fine as well since it was good 
> running and all the marks are lining up correctly still.
>
> On Monday, February 29, 2016 at 5:56:38 PM UTC-8, chadrebuck wrote:
>
> Also check that the cam sprocket is located in the right place on the cam. 
> If the tooth broke off of the cam gear then it could rotate causing the 
> timing to be incorrect. Did you mention that the cam sprocket had a broken 
> locating tooth?
>
> On Feb 29, 2016 7:47 PM, "Chad Rebuck" <chadr...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Changing the cams out will be a waste of time. What did you do to verify 
> the spark plug wire order? Can you take a video of how the car is running?
>
> On Feb 29, 2016 7:39 PM, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> i put the techtronics chip back in and put the older throttle body back in 
> with no changes in how the car is acting.  i also checked grounds and ran 
> some extras to the bundle on head, etc. just in case.
>
>  
>
> my issues make for a useless car, no way it could be driven.  so my 
> problems seem way beyond the little tuning people do to get their cars 
> running right.  this car ran and drove when i got it with very old and worn 
> injector seals and numerous vacuum lines with holes in it. it ran its best 
> when hot and on the throttle never gave out on me or died. although it had 
> goofy issues with starting consistently and idling a little 
> high/rough/inconsistent at times.
>
>  
>
> and i see people mention 02 sensors and cts making for a rough runni

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-03-19 Thread Holland Phillips

 i capped off one hole with a bolt/washer and the other with a thick
>>> plate and gasket.  turned the key once to hear the pump prime and then
>>> tried to start the car and it started right up and idled a bit less than
>>> 900 rpm i think.
>>>
>>> wow do i feel stupid.
>>>
>>> i got various little things to fix after poking around but my next
>>> problem is the cat/02 sensor.  i'm going to start fresh with my new cat and
>>> 02 sensor at this point.  i assumed the wiring was ok but noticed some
>>> previous owner electrical tape and there are numerous wires tied together
>>> into a bundle thats hooking up to a ground on the passenger firewall.  this
>>> includes a single wire that is zip tied to the outside of the loom coming
>>> from the drivers side.  halfway it turns from black to brown with vw
>>> plastic connectors.
>>>
>>> seems a little goofy at face value to have a single wire shoot all the
>>> way over there for ground right where all those wires meet. i have to look
>>> closer but i think something is screwed up if im reading right the 2nd 02
>>> sensor connector is a heater wire NOT ground?  the other harness with 2
>>> white wires goes into the loom.
>>>
>>> i have a feeling car isn't even getting a signal from 02 sensor so i
>>> need to get that straight before installing new one.
>>>
>>> i had the distributor at the old setups marks, i will have to time it
>>> tomorrow i couldn't actually see the marks well when trying the timing
>>> light in the dark tonight.  car runs and is revving out with the stock
>>> chip/cams, etc. but i noticed right away when i stab the throttle and it
>>> comes off the idle switch there was a slight gurgle and then it revs out
>>> but is reacting to pedal.   i'm hoping it needs to be timed and that will
>>> help.
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, March 16, 2016 at 7:56:36 PM UTC-7, damac2004 wrote:
>>>
>>> oh boy i am feeling stupid and think i have found the smoking gun here.
>>>
>>> is it possible that having 2 open holes on the back of the intake
>>> manifold made the car act this way?
>>>
>>> this is not a california chasis so no egr stuff.  when i pulled the euro
>>> manifold one hole had a bolt stuck through it with rtv and another hole was
>>> held by bolts and gasket.
>>>
>>> when i was transferring everything over to the stock manifold i remember
>>> poking down the hole with brake cleaner hose and hit what i thought was
>>> solid wall on each.  at the time never seeing egr stuff assumed it maybe
>>> would be drilled out for a car that needed that hardware.
>>>
>>> i had filled the holes up with brake cleaner with that side up and don't
>>> think i paid close enough attention so this whole time it was installed on
>>> the car like that.
>>>
>>> tonight as i went to transfer the old parts back on as my last hope
>>> effort i noticed some leakage when spraying brake cleaner and a light bulb
>>> went off.  so with those holes up if i spray one hole it fills the other
>>> hole up.  if you leave the manifold sit the level of fluid just sits there.
>>>  when i went to tilt sideways one way nothing happened but leaking out the
>>> top.  when i tilted the other way 2 of the runners leaked the fluid out.
>>>
>>> i don't know these cars at all.  since the car wasn't running right i
>>> never wanted to let it run long since it wasn't acting like a real car.  my
>>> mom was watching and said i see some smoke and it sounds funny but of
>>> course i told her its just stuff burning off and that it wasn't running
>>> right.  couldn't really take a chance to look or feel closer.
>>>
>>> i have seen people mention these cars can run crappy with vac leaks and
>>> they don't run without the intake tubes attached?  i'm hoping this is what
>>> it was.  going to make some block off plates and gasket to seal those 2
>>> holes up tight and then install all the old parts on it and hope like magic
>>> its back to normal and then i can smog it.
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, March 1, 2016 at 10:41:38 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>>>
>>> I just thought of something. Any chance the fuel in the tank could be
>>> contaminated? Since I think you said you're in California, the fuel here is
>>> probably the worst in the U.S.. With the ethanol and other crazy additives
>>> that's in it, it has an extremely short shelf

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-03-19 Thread Steven Arguello

ness with 2 white wires goes into 
the loom.

i have a feeling car isn't even getting a signal from 02 sensor so i need to 
get that straight before installing new one.

i had the distributor at the old setups marks, i will have to time it tomorrow 
i couldn't actually see the marks well when trying the timing light in the dark 
tonight.  car runs and is revving out with the stock chip/cams, etc. but i 
noticed right away when i stab the throttle and it comes off the idle switch 
there was a slight gurgle and then it revs out but is reacting to pedal.   i'm 
hoping it needs to be timed and that will help.  

On Wednesday, March 16, 2016 at 7:56:36 PM UTC-7, damac2004 wrote:
oh boy i am feeling stupid and think i have found the smoking gun here.

is it possible that having 2 open holes on the back of the intake manifold made 
the car act this way?

this is not a california chasis so no egr stuff.  when i pulled the euro 
manifold one hole had a bolt stuck through it with rtv and another hole was 
held by bolts and gasket.

when i was transferring everything over to the stock manifold i remember poking 
down the hole with brake cleaner hose and hit what i thought was solid wall on 
each.  at the time never seeing egr stuff assumed it maybe would be drilled out 
for a car that needed that hardware.

i had filled the holes up with brake cleaner with that side up and don't think 
i paid close enough attention so this whole time it was installed on the car 
like that.

tonight as i went to transfer the old parts back on as my last hope effort i 
noticed some leakage when spraying brake cleaner and a light bulb went off.  so 
with those holes up if i spray one hole it fills the other hole up.  if you 
leave the manifold sit the level of fluid just sits there.  when i went to tilt 
sideways one way nothing happened but leaking out the top.  when i tilted the 
other way 2 of the runners leaked the fluid out.

i don't know these cars at all.  since the car wasn't running right i never 
wanted to let it run long since it wasn't acting like a real car.  my mom was 
watching and said i see some smoke and it sounds funny but of course i told her 
its just stuff burning off and that it wasn't running right.  couldn't really 
take a chance to look or feel closer.

i have seen people mention these cars can run crappy with vac leaks and they 
don't run without the intake tubes attached?  i'm hoping this is what it was.  
going to make some block off plates and gasket to seal those 2 holes up tight 
and then install all the old parts on it and hope like magic its back to normal 
and then i can smog it.

On Tuesday, March 1, 2016 at 10:41:38 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
I just thought of something. Any chance the fuel in the tank could be 
contaminated? Since I think you said you're in California, the fuel here is 
probably the worst in the U.S.. With the ethanol and other crazy additives 
that's in it, it has an extremely short shelf life. 
An other thing, I wonder how the fuel pumps are? If either the main or transfer 
pump aren't healthy, that can cause weird running problems. The easiest way to 
check the pumps is to disconnect the input line at the fuel distributor and 
have someone turn on the ignition for a second. You should get a really healthy 
stream of fuel. As I recall, the main pump operates at around 50psi, give or 
take. 
We're reaching for straws at this point, so the more you check that looks 
correct, that's fewer possibilities to deal with.

~Holland

On Mar 1, 2016 10:15, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com <>> wrote:
I just checked and Marren is still in business and still rebuilding injectors 
of all ages: <>
 

https://www.injector.com/ <https://www.injector.com/>
 

https://www.facebook.com/MarrenFuelInjection/ 
<https://www.facebook.com/MarrenFuelInjection/>
 

-Larry

 

From: mk2...@googlegroups.com <> [mailto:mk2...@googlegroups.com <>] On Behalf 
Of Holland Phillips
Sent: Tuesday, March 1, 2016 12:56 PM
To: mk2...@googlegroups.com <>
Subject: Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

 

I agree with you Chad. At this point, I would perform a compression test. If 
that looks good, then I'm at a loss as to where to go next. Maybe look at the 
injectors. It's probably easier and cheaper to try and find some used, 
hopefully known good injectors, even if it's only one. Then you could swap them 
one at a time and see if you find a bad one. There are a couple of companies 
that do balancing and blueprinting of Motronic injectors. I had mine done by 
Marren Motorsports back in the mid '90's, so I don't know if they're still in 
business. They could perform just testing to check for flow and pattern.
Beyond that, I just don't know.

~Holland

On Feb 29, 2016 18:21, "Chad Rebuck" <chadr...@gmail.com <>> wrote:

The key in the cam gear is only there for the alignment until the bolt is 
tightened. It doesn't really hold th

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-03-19 Thread damac2004

 having 2 open holes on the back of the intake manifold 
> made the car act this way?
>
> this is not a california chasis so no egr stuff.  when i pulled the euro 
> manifold one hole had a bolt stuck through it with rtv and another hole was 
> held by bolts and gasket.
>
> when i was transferring everything over to the stock manifold i remember 
> poking down the hole with brake cleaner hose and hit what i thought was 
> solid wall on each.  at the time never seeing egr stuff assumed it maybe 
> would be drilled out for a car that needed that hardware.
>
> i had filled the holes up with brake cleaner with that side up and don't 
> think i paid close enough attention so this whole time it was installed on 
> the car like that.
>
> tonight as i went to transfer the old parts back on as my last hope effort 
> i noticed some leakage when spraying brake cleaner and a light bulb went 
> off.  so with those holes up if i spray one hole it fills the other hole 
> up.  if you leave the manifold sit the level of fluid just sits there. 
>  when i went to tilt sideways one way nothing happened but leaking out the 
> top.  when i tilted the other way 2 of the runners leaked the fluid out.
>
> i don't know these cars at all.  since the car wasn't running right i 
> never wanted to let it run long since it wasn't acting like a real car.  my 
> mom was watching and said i see some smoke and it sounds funny but of 
> course i told her its just stuff burning off and that it wasn't running 
> right.  couldn't really take a chance to look or feel closer.
>
> i have seen people mention these cars can run crappy with vac leaks and 
> they don't run without the intake tubes attached?  i'm hoping this is what 
> it was.  going to make some block off plates and gasket to seal those 2 
> holes up tight and then install all the old parts on it and hope like magic 
> its back to normal and then i can smog it.
>
> On Tuesday, March 1, 2016 at 10:41:38 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>
> I just thought of something. Any chance the fuel in the tank could be 
> contaminated? Since I think you said you're in California, the fuel here is 
> probably the worst in the U.S.. With the ethanol and other crazy additives 
> that's in it, it has an extremely short shelf life. 
> An other thing, I wonder how the fuel pumps are? If either the main or 
> transfer pump aren't healthy, that can cause weird running problems. The 
> easiest way to check the pumps is to disconnect the input line at the fuel 
> distributor and have someone turn on the ignition for a second. You should 
> get a really healthy stream of fuel. As I recall, the main pump operates at 
> around 50psi, give or take. 
> We're reaching for straws at this point, so the more you check that looks 
> correct, that's fewer possibilities to deal with. 
>
> ~Holland
> On Mar 1, 2016 10:15, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com> wrote:
>
> I just checked and Marren is still in business and still rebuilding 
> injectors of all ages: 
>
>  
>
> https://www.injector.com/ 
>
>  
>
> https://www.facebook.com/MarrenFuelInjection/ 
>
>  
>
> -Larry
>
>  
>
> *From:* mk2...@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2...@googlegroups.com] *On 
> Behalf Of *Holland Phillips
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 1, 2016 12:56 PM
> *To:* mk2...@googlegroups.com
> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
>
>  
>
> I agree with you Chad. At this point, I would perform a compression test. 
> If that looks good, then I'm at a loss as to where to go next. Maybe look 
> at the injectors. It's probably easier and cheaper to try and find some 
> used, hopefully known good injectors, even if it's only one. Then you could 
> swap them one at a time and see if you find a bad one. There are a couple 
> of companies that do balancing and blueprinting of Motronic injectors. I 
> had mine done by Marren Motorsports back in the mid '90's, so I don't know 
> if they're still in business. They could perform just testing to check for 
> flow and pattern.
> Beyond that, I just don't know. 
>
> ~Holland
>
> On Feb 29, 2016 18:21, "Chad Rebuck" <chadr...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> The key in the cam gear is only there for the alignment until the bolt is 
> tightened. It doesn't really hold the cam gear in place once the bolt is 
> tightened.  Same for the crank pulley too.  The key can break if the bolt 
> gets loose enough for it to turn.  
>
> I'm just curious how the engine sounds as you said it ran smoother for a 
> short while when you opened up the throttle.
>
> I'm about out of ideas.  If you take it to a shop the first thing they're 
> going to do is check the timing again and check the compression I bet.
&g

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-03-19 Thread Holland Phillips

; tomorrow i couldn't actually see the marks well when trying the timing
>> light in the dark tonight.  car runs and is revving out with the stock
>> chip/cams, etc. but i noticed right away when i stab the throttle and it
>> comes off the idle switch there was a slight gurgle and then it revs out
>> but is reacting to pedal.   i'm hoping it needs to be timed and that will
>> help.
>>
>> On Wednesday, March 16, 2016 at 7:56:36 PM UTC-7, damac2004 wrote:
>>
>> oh boy i am feeling stupid and think i have found the smoking gun here.
>>
>> is it possible that having 2 open holes on the back of the intake
>> manifold made the car act this way?
>>
>> this is not a california chasis so no egr stuff.  when i pulled the euro
>> manifold one hole had a bolt stuck through it with rtv and another hole was
>> held by bolts and gasket.
>>
>> when i was transferring everything over to the stock manifold i remember
>> poking down the hole with brake cleaner hose and hit what i thought was
>> solid wall on each.  at the time never seeing egr stuff assumed it maybe
>> would be drilled out for a car that needed that hardware.
>>
>> i had filled the holes up with brake cleaner with that side up and don't
>> think i paid close enough attention so this whole time it was installed on
>> the car like that.
>>
>> tonight as i went to transfer the old parts back on as my last hope
>> effort i noticed some leakage when spraying brake cleaner and a light bulb
>> went off.  so with those holes up if i spray one hole it fills the other
>> hole up.  if you leave the manifold sit the level of fluid just sits there.
>>  when i went to tilt sideways one way nothing happened but leaking out the
>> top.  when i tilted the other way 2 of the runners leaked the fluid out.
>>
>> i don't know these cars at all.  since the car wasn't running right i
>> never wanted to let it run long since it wasn't acting like a real car.  my
>> mom was watching and said i see some smoke and it sounds funny but of
>> course i told her its just stuff burning off and that it wasn't running
>> right.  couldn't really take a chance to look or feel closer.
>>
>> i have seen people mention these cars can run crappy with vac leaks and
>> they don't run without the intake tubes attached?  i'm hoping this is what
>> it was.  going to make some block off plates and gasket to seal those 2
>> holes up tight and then install all the old parts on it and hope like magic
>> its back to normal and then i can smog it.
>>
>> On Tuesday, March 1, 2016 at 10:41:38 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>>
>> I just thought of something. Any chance the fuel in the tank could be
>> contaminated? Since I think you said you're in California, the fuel here is
>> probably the worst in the U.S.. With the ethanol and other crazy additives
>> that's in it, it has an extremely short shelf life.
>> An other thing, I wonder how the fuel pumps are? If either the main or
>> transfer pump aren't healthy, that can cause weird running problems. The
>> easiest way to check the pumps is to disconnect the input line at the fuel
>> distributor and have someone turn on the ignition for a second. You should
>> get a really healthy stream of fuel. As I recall, the main pump operates at
>> around 50psi, give or take.
>> We're reaching for straws at this point, so the more you check that looks
>> correct, that's fewer possibilities to deal with.
>>
>> ~Holland
>> On Mar 1, 2016 10:15, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com> wrote:
>>
>> I just checked and Marren is still in business and still rebuilding
>> injectors of all ages:
>>
>>
>>
>> https://www.injector.com/
>>
>>
>>
>> https://www.facebook.com/MarrenFuelInjection/
>>
>>
>>
>> -Larry
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* mk2...@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2...@googlegroups.com] *On
>> Behalf Of *Holland Phillips
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 1, 2016 12:56 PM
>> *To:* mk2...@googlegroups.com
>> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
>>
>>
>>
>> I agree with you Chad. At this point, I would perform a compression test.
>> If that looks good, then I'm at a loss as to where to go next. Maybe look
>> at the injectors. It's probably easier and cheaper to try and find some
>> used, hopefully known good injectors, even if it's only one. Then you could
>> swap them one at a time and see if you find a bad one. There are a couple
>> of companies that do balancing and blueprinting of Motronic injectors. I
>> ha

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-03-19 Thread Steven Arguello

 i don't know these cars at all.  since the car wasn't running right i never 
> wanted to let it run long since it wasn't acting like a real car.  my mom was 
> watching and said i see some smoke and it sounds funny but of course i told 
> her its just stuff burning off and that it wasn't running right.  couldn't 
> really take a chance to look or feel closer.
> 
> i have seen people mention these cars can run crappy with vac leaks and they 
> don't run without the intake tubes attached?  i'm hoping this is what it was. 
>  going to make some block off plates and gasket to seal those 2 holes up 
> tight and then install all the old parts on it and hope like magic its back 
> to normal and then i can smog it.
> 
> On Tuesday, March 1, 2016 at 10:41:38 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
> I just thought of something. Any chance the fuel in the tank could be 
> contaminated? Since I think you said you're in California, the fuel here is 
> probably the worst in the U.S.. With the ethanol and other crazy additives 
> that's in it, it has an extremely short shelf life. 
> An other thing, I wonder how the fuel pumps are? If either the main or 
> transfer pump aren't healthy, that can cause weird running problems. The 
> easiest way to check the pumps is to disconnect the input line at the fuel 
> distributor and have someone turn on the ignition for a second. You should 
> get a really healthy stream of fuel. As I recall, the main pump operates at 
> around 50psi, give or take. 
> We're reaching for straws at this point, so the more you check that looks 
> correct, that's fewer possibilities to deal with.
> 
> ~Holland
> 
> On Mar 1, 2016 10:15, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com <>> wrote:
> I just checked and Marren is still in business and still rebuilding injectors 
> of all ages: <>
>  
> 
> https://www.injector.com/ <https://www.injector.com/>
>  
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/MarrenFuelInjection/ 
> <https://www.facebook.com/MarrenFuelInjection/>
>  
> 
> -Larry
> 
>  
> 
> From: mk2...@googlegroups.com <> [mailto:mk2...@googlegroups.com <>] On 
> Behalf Of Holland Phillips
> Sent: Tuesday, March 1, 2016 12:56 PM
> To: mk2...@googlegroups.com <>
> Subject: Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
> 
>  
> 
> I agree with you Chad. At this point, I would perform a compression test. If 
> that looks good, then I'm at a loss as to where to go next. Maybe look at the 
> injectors. It's probably easier and cheaper to try and find some used, 
> hopefully known good injectors, even if it's only one. Then you could swap 
> them one at a time and see if you find a bad one. There are a couple of 
> companies that do balancing and blueprinting of Motronic injectors. I had 
> mine done by Marren Motorsports back in the mid '90's, so I don't know if 
> they're still in business. They could perform just testing to check for flow 
> and pattern.
> Beyond that, I just don't know.
> 
> ~Holland
> 
> On Feb 29, 2016 18:21, "Chad Rebuck" <chadr...@gmail.com <>> wrote:
> 
> The key in the cam gear is only there for the alignment until the bolt is 
> tightened. It doesn't really hold the cam gear in place once the bolt is 
> tightened.  Same for the crank pulley too.  The key can break if the bolt 
> gets loose enough for it to turn. 
> 
> I'm just curious how the engine sounds as you said it ran smoother for a 
> short while when you opened up the throttle.
> 
> I'm about out of ideas.  If you take it to a shop the first thing they're 
> going to do is check the timing again and check the compression I bet.
> 
> On Feb 29, 2016 9:05 PM, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net <>> wrote:
> 
> im afraid to run this car for long but what would be better, a video from the 
> engine bay or tailpipe?
> 
>  
> 
> i didn't change the plug order, etc. when doing all this work, just popped 
> the distributor off and layed it in engine bay with battery out.
> 
>  
> 
> the cam i took off the car did have the cam gear tooth broken but it didn't 
> move based on how the keyway lined up, is that surprising?  i bought another 
> cam pulley off a vortex member and he sold it to me the exact same way and 
> told me every one he has taken off came the same way?  i thought that was 
> nuts but have seen through forums searching it has happened to others.  i got 
> a new cam pulley while doing all this work and its still fine.  and i have to 
> assume the crank is fine as well since it was good running and all the marks 
> are lining up correctly still.
> 
> On Monday, February 29, 2016 at 5:56:38 PM UTC-8, chadrebuck wrote:
> 
> Also check that the

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-03-19 Thread Holland Phillips

has an extremely short shelf life.
>>> An other thing, I wonder how the fuel pumps are? If either the main or
>>> transfer pump aren't healthy, that can cause weird running problems. The
>>> easiest way to check the pumps is to disconnect the input line at the fuel
>>> distributor and have someone turn on the ignition for a second. You should
>>> get a really healthy stream of fuel. As I recall, the main pump operates at
>>> around 50psi, give or take.
>>> We're reaching for straws at this point, so the more you check that
>>> looks correct, that's fewer possibilities to deal with.
>>>
>>> ~Holland
>>> On Mar 1, 2016 10:15, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I just checked and Marren is still in business and still rebuilding
>>>> injectors of all ages:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> https://www.injector.com/
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> https://www.facebook.com/MarrenFuelInjection/
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> -Larry
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> *From:* mk2...@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2...@googlegroups.com] *On
>>>> Behalf Of *Holland Phillips
>>>> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 1, 2016 12:56 PM
>>>> *To:* mk2...@googlegroups.com
>>>> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I agree with you Chad. At this point, I would perform a compression
>>>> test. If that looks good, then I'm at a loss as to where to go next. Maybe
>>>> look at the injectors. It's probably easier and cheaper to try and find
>>>> some used, hopefully known good injectors, even if it's only one. Then you
>>>> could swap them one at a time and see if you find a bad one. There are a
>>>> couple of companies that do balancing and blueprinting of Motronic
>>>> injectors. I had mine done by Marren Motorsports back in the mid '90's, so
>>>> I don't know if they're still in business. They could perform just testing
>>>> to check for flow and pattern.
>>>> Beyond that, I just don't know.
>>>>
>>>> ~Holland
>>>>
>>>> On Feb 29, 2016 18:21, "Chad Rebuck" <chadr...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> The key in the cam gear is only there for the alignment until the bolt
>>>> is tightened. It doesn't really hold the cam gear in place once the bolt is
>>>> tightened.  Same for the crank pulley too.  The key can break if the bolt
>>>> gets loose enough for it to turn.
>>>>
>>>> I'm just curious how the engine sounds as you said it ran smoother for
>>>> a short while when you opened up the throttle.
>>>>
>>>> I'm about out of ideas.  If you take it to a shop the first thing
>>>> they're going to do is check the timing again and check the compression I
>>>> bet.
>>>>
>>>> On Feb 29, 2016 9:05 PM, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> im afraid to run this car for long but what would be better, a video
>>>> from the engine bay or tailpipe?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> i didn't change the plug order, etc. when doing all this work, just
>>>> popped the distributor off and layed it in engine bay with battery out.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> the cam i took off the car did have the cam gear tooth broken but it
>>>> didn't move based on how the keyway lined up, is that surprising?  i bought
>>>> another cam pulley off a vortex member and he sold it to me the exact same
>>>> way and told me every one he has taken off came the same way?  i thought
>>>> that was nuts but have seen through forums searching it has happened to
>>>> others.  i got a new cam pulley while doing all this work and its still
>>>> fine.  and i have to assume the crank is fine as well since it was good
>>>> running and all the marks are lining up correctly still.
>>>>
>>>> On Monday, February 29, 2016 at 5:56:38 PM UTC-8, chadrebuck wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Also check that the cam sprocket is located in the right place on the
>>>> cam. If the tooth broke off of the cam gear then it could rotate causing
>>>> the timing to be incorrect. Did you mention that the cam sprocket had a
>>>> broken locating tooth?
>>>

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-03-19 Thread damac2004

sorry i think the egr system attaches to the holes i am talking about.  and 
i just dumped water down the runners and confirmed that the 2 big holes are 
open to the intake runners.  so one picture is the euro intake and the 
holes are so open you can look and see through.  stock manifold isn't like 
that but those holes are linked and channel.


<https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SL1M_Lo3RlY/VuopwZoKfpI/ANY/6DKq4fyWAqAfx-XU5Y09r-F2UviPbzX6A/s1600/IMG_0564.JPG>

<https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1Yss8rUhSew/Vuopyi3GaaI/ANc/VBUq_33Op4AiGbF0K4JkrRsfuAwqFWrug/s1600/IMG_0565.JPG>




On Wednesday, March 16, 2016 at 8:05:45 PM UTC-7, chadrebuck wrote:
>
> I'm not following the description too well but any opening in the intake 
> manifold that allows air to bypass the air meter and fuel distributor is no 
> good. You able to send any picture?
> On Mar 16, 2016 10:56 PM, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net > 
> wrote:
>
>> oh boy i am feeling stupid and think i have found the smoking gun here.
>>
>> is it possible that having 2 open holes on the back of the intake 
>> manifold made the car act this way?
>>
>> this is not a california chasis so no egr stuff.  when i pulled the euro 
>> manifold one hole had a bolt stuck through it with rtv and another hole was 
>> held by bolts and gasket.
>>
>> when i was transferring everything over to the stock manifold i remember 
>> poking down the hole with brake cleaner hose and hit what i thought was 
>> solid wall on each.  at the time never seeing egr stuff assumed it maybe 
>> would be drilled out for a car that needed that hardware.
>>
>> i had filled the holes up with brake cleaner with that side up and don't 
>> think i paid close enough attention so this whole time it was installed on 
>> the car like that.
>>
>> tonight as i went to transfer the old parts back on as my last hope 
>> effort i noticed some leakage when spraying brake cleaner and a light bulb 
>> went off.  so with those holes up if i spray one hole it fills the other 
>> hole up.  if you leave the manifold sit the level of fluid just sits there. 
>>  when i went to tilt sideways one way nothing happened but leaking out the 
>> top.  when i tilted the other way 2 of the runners leaked the fluid out.
>>
>> i don't know these cars at all.  since the car wasn't running right i 
>> never wanted to let it run long since it wasn't acting like a real car.  my 
>> mom was watching and said i see some smoke and it sounds funny but of 
>> course i told her its just stuff burning off and that it wasn't running 
>> right.  couldn't really take a chance to look or feel closer.
>>
>> i have seen people mention these cars can run crappy with vac leaks and 
>> they don't run without the intake tubes attached?  i'm hoping this is what 
>> it was.  going to make some block off plates and gasket to seal those 2 
>> holes up tight and then install all the old parts on it and hope like magic 
>> its back to normal and then i can smog it.
>>
>> On Tuesday, March 1, 2016 at 10:41:38 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>>>
>>> I just thought of something. Any chance the fuel in the tank could be 
>>> contaminated? Since I think you said you're in California, the fuel here is 
>>> probably the worst in the U.S.. With the ethanol and other crazy additives 
>>> that's in it, it has an extremely short shelf life. 
>>> An other thing, I wonder how the fuel pumps are? If either the main or 
>>> transfer pump aren't healthy, that can cause weird running problems. The 
>>> easiest way to check the pumps is to disconnect the input line at the fuel 
>>> distributor and have someone turn on the ignition for a second. You should 
>>> get a really healthy stream of fuel. As I recall, the main pump operates at 
>>> around 50psi, give or take. 
>>> We're reaching for straws at this point, so the more you check that 
>>> looks correct, that's fewer possibilities to deal with. 
>>>
>>> ~Holland
>>> On Mar 1, 2016 10:15, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I just checked and Marren is still in business and still rebuilding 
>>>> injectors of all ages: 
>>>>
>>>>  
>>>>
>>>> https://www.injector.com/ 
>>>>
>>>>  
>>>>
>>>> https://www.facebook.com/MarrenFuelInjection/ 
>>>>
>>>>  
>>>>
>>>> -Larry
>>>>
>>>>  
>>>>
>>>> *From:* mk2...@googlegroups.com [mailto:m

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-03-19 Thread 'Josh Wyte' via MK2-16v

You gotta cap those

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 16, 2016, at 9:51 PM, damac2004 <damac2...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> 
> sorry i think the egr system attaches to the holes i am talking about.  and i 
> just dumped water down the runners and confirmed that the 2 big holes are 
> open to the intake runners.  so one picture is the euro intake and the holes 
> are so open you can look and see through.  stock manifold isn't like that but 
> those holes are linked and channel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Wednesday, March 16, 2016 at 8:05:45 PM UTC-7, chadrebuck wrote:
>> I'm not following the description too well but any opening in the intake 
>> manifold that allows air to bypass the air meter and fuel distributor is no 
>> good. You able to send any picture?
>> 
>>> On Mar 16, 2016 10:56 PM, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>> oh boy i am feeling stupid and think i have found the smoking gun here.
>>> 
>>> is it possible that having 2 open holes on the back of the intake manifold 
>>> made the car act this way?
>>> 
>>> this is not a california chasis so no egr stuff.  when i pulled the euro 
>>> manifold one hole had a bolt stuck through it with rtv and another hole was 
>>> held by bolts and gasket.
>>> 
>>> when i was transferring everything over to the stock manifold i remember 
>>> poking down the hole with brake cleaner hose and hit what i thought was 
>>> solid wall on each.  at the time never seeing egr stuff assumed it maybe 
>>> would be drilled out for a car that needed that hardware.
>>> 
>>> i had filled the holes up with brake cleaner with that side up and don't 
>>> think i paid close enough attention so this whole time it was installed on 
>>> the car like that.
>>> 
>>> tonight as i went to transfer the old parts back on as my last hope effort 
>>> i noticed some leakage when spraying brake cleaner and a light bulb went 
>>> off.  so with those holes up if i spray one hole it fills the other hole 
>>> up.  if you leave the manifold sit the level of fluid just sits there.  
>>> when i went to tilt sideways one way nothing happened but leaking out the 
>>> top.  when i tilted the other way 2 of the runners leaked the fluid out.
>>> 
>>> i don't know these cars at all.  since the car wasn't running right i never 
>>> wanted to let it run long since it wasn't acting like a real car.  my mom 
>>> was watching and said i see some smoke and it sounds funny but of course i 
>>> told her its just stuff burning off and that it wasn't running right.  
>>> couldn't really take a chance to look or feel closer.
>>> 
>>> i have seen people mention these cars can run crappy with vac leaks and 
>>> they don't run without the intake tubes attached?  i'm hoping this is what 
>>> it was.  going to make some block off plates and gasket to seal those 2 
>>> holes up tight and then install all the old parts on it and hope like magic 
>>> its back to normal and then i can smog it.
>>> 
>>>> On Tuesday, March 1, 2016 at 10:41:38 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>>>> I just thought of something. Any chance the fuel in the tank could be 
>>>> contaminated? Since I think you said you're in California, the fuel here 
>>>> is probably the worst in the U.S.. With the ethanol and other crazy 
>>>> additives that's in it, it has an extremely short shelf life. 
>>>> An other thing, I wonder how the fuel pumps are? If either the main or 
>>>> transfer pump aren't healthy, that can cause weird running problems. The 
>>>> easiest way to check the pumps is to disconnect the input line at the fuel 
>>>> distributor and have someone turn on the ignition for a second. You should 
>>>> get a really healthy stream of fuel. As I recall, the main pump operates 
>>>> at around 50psi, give or take. 
>>>> We're reaching for straws at this point, so the more you check that looks 
>>>> correct, that's fewer possibilities to deal with.
>>>> 
>>>> ~Holland
>>>> 
>>>>> On Mar 1, 2016 10:15, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com> wrote:
>>>>> I just checked and Marren is still in business and still rebuilding 
>>>>> injectors of all ages:
>>>>> 
>>>>>  
>>>>> 
>>>>> https://www.injector.com/
>>>>> 
>>>>>  
>>>>> 
>>>>>

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-03-19 Thread Chad Rebuck

I'm not following the description too well but any opening in the intake
manifold that allows air to bypass the air meter and fuel distributor is no
good. You able to send any picture?
On Mar 16, 2016 10:56 PM, "damac2004" <damac2...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> oh boy i am feeling stupid and think i have found the smoking gun here.
>
> is it possible that having 2 open holes on the back of the intake manifold
> made the car act this way?
>
> this is not a california chasis so no egr stuff.  when i pulled the euro
> manifold one hole had a bolt stuck through it with rtv and another hole was
> held by bolts and gasket.
>
> when i was transferring everything over to the stock manifold i remember
> poking down the hole with brake cleaner hose and hit what i thought was
> solid wall on each.  at the time never seeing egr stuff assumed it maybe
> would be drilled out for a car that needed that hardware.
>
> i had filled the holes up with brake cleaner with that side up and don't
> think i paid close enough attention so this whole time it was installed on
> the car like that.
>
> tonight as i went to transfer the old parts back on as my last hope effort
> i noticed some leakage when spraying brake cleaner and a light bulb went
> off.  so with those holes up if i spray one hole it fills the other hole
> up.  if you leave the manifold sit the level of fluid just sits there.
>  when i went to tilt sideways one way nothing happened but leaking out the
> top.  when i tilted the other way 2 of the runners leaked the fluid out.
>
> i don't know these cars at all.  since the car wasn't running right i
> never wanted to let it run long since it wasn't acting like a real car.  my
> mom was watching and said i see some smoke and it sounds funny but of
> course i told her its just stuff burning off and that it wasn't running
> right.  couldn't really take a chance to look or feel closer.
>
> i have seen people mention these cars can run crappy with vac leaks and
> they don't run without the intake tubes attached?  i'm hoping this is what
> it was.  going to make some block off plates and gasket to seal those 2
> holes up tight and then install all the old parts on it and hope like magic
> its back to normal and then i can smog it.
>
> On Tuesday, March 1, 2016 at 10:41:38 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>>
>> I just thought of something. Any chance the fuel in the tank could be
>> contaminated? Since I think you said you're in California, the fuel here is
>> probably the worst in the U.S.. With the ethanol and other crazy additives
>> that's in it, it has an extremely short shelf life.
>> An other thing, I wonder how the fuel pumps are? If either the main or
>> transfer pump aren't healthy, that can cause weird running problems. The
>> easiest way to check the pumps is to disconnect the input line at the fuel
>> distributor and have someone turn on the ignition for a second. You should
>> get a really healthy stream of fuel. As I recall, the main pump operates at
>> around 50psi, give or take.
>> We're reaching for straws at this point, so the more you check that looks
>> correct, that's fewer possibilities to deal with.
>>
>> ~Holland
>> On Mar 1, 2016 10:15, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I just checked and Marren is still in business and still rebuilding
>>> injectors of all ages:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> https://www.injector.com/
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> https://www.facebook.com/MarrenFuelInjection/
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -Larry
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *From:* mk2...@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2...@googlegroups.com] *On
>>> Behalf Of *Holland Phillips
>>> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 1, 2016 12:56 PM
>>> *To:* mk2...@googlegroups.com
>>> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I agree with you Chad. At this point, I would perform a compression
>>> test. If that looks good, then I'm at a loss as to where to go next. Maybe
>>> look at the injectors. It's probably easier and cheaper to try and find
>>> some used, hopefully known good injectors, even if it's only one. Then you
>>> could swap them one at a time and see if you find a bad one. There are a
>>> couple of companies that do balancing and blueprinting of Motronic
>>> injectors. I had mine done by Marren Motorsports back in the mid '90's, so
>>> I don't know if they're still in business. They could perform just testing
>>> to check for flow and pattern.
>>> Beyond that, I just don't know.
>&

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-03-19 Thread damac2004

nu.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I just checked and Marren is still in business and still rebuilding 
>>> injectors of all ages: 
>>>
>>>  
>>>
>>> https://www.injector.com/ 
>>>
>>>  
>>>
>>> https://www.facebook.com/MarrenFuelInjection/ 
>>>
>>>  
>>>
>>> -Larry
>>>
>>>  
>>>
>>> *From:* mk2...@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2...@googlegroups.com] *On 
>>> Behalf Of *Holland Phillips
>>> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 1, 2016 12:56 PM
>>> *To:* mk2...@googlegroups.com
>>> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
>>>
>>>  
>>>
>>> I agree with you Chad. At this point, I would perform a compression 
>>> test. If that looks good, then I'm at a loss as to where to go next. Maybe 
>>> look at the injectors. It's probably easier and cheaper to try and find 
>>> some used, hopefully known good injectors, even if it's only one. Then you 
>>> could swap them one at a time and see if you find a bad one. There are a 
>>> couple of companies that do balancing and blueprinting of Motronic 
>>> injectors. I had mine done by Marren Motorsports back in the mid '90's, so 
>>> I don't know if they're still in business. They could perform just testing 
>>> to check for flow and pattern.
>>> Beyond that, I just don't know. 
>>>
>>> ~Holland
>>>
>>> On Feb 29, 2016 18:21, "Chad Rebuck" <chadr...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> The key in the cam gear is only there for the alignment until the bolt 
>>> is tightened. It doesn't really hold the cam gear in place once the bolt is 
>>> tightened.  Same for the crank pulley too.  The key can break if the bolt 
>>> gets loose enough for it to turn.  
>>>
>>> I'm just curious how the engine sounds as you said it ran smoother for a 
>>> short while when you opened up the throttle.
>>>
>>> I'm about out of ideas.  If you take it to a shop the first thing 
>>> they're going to do is check the timing again and check the compression I 
>>> bet.
>>>
>>> On Feb 29, 2016 9:05 PM, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>>
>>> im afraid to run this car for long but what would be better, a video 
>>> from the engine bay or tailpipe?
>>>
>>>  
>>>
>>> i didn't change the plug order, etc. when doing all this work, just 
>>> popped the distributor off and layed it in engine bay with battery out.
>>>
>>>  
>>>
>>> the cam i took off the car did have the cam gear tooth broken but it 
>>> didn't move based on how the keyway lined up, is that surprising?  i bought 
>>> another cam pulley off a vortex member and he sold it to me the exact same 
>>> way and told me every one he has taken off came the same way?  i thought 
>>> that was nuts but have seen through forums searching it has happened to 
>>> others.  i got a new cam pulley while doing all this work and its still 
>>> fine.  and i have to assume the crank is fine as well since it was good 
>>> running and all the marks are lining up correctly still.
>>>
>>> On Monday, February 29, 2016 at 5:56:38 PM UTC-8, chadrebuck wrote:
>>>
>>> Also check that the cam sprocket is located in the right place on the 
>>> cam. If the tooth broke off of the cam gear then it could rotate causing 
>>> the timing to be incorrect. Did you mention that the cam sprocket had a 
>>> broken locating tooth?
>>>
>>> On Feb 29, 2016 7:47 PM, "Chad Rebuck" <chadr...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Changing the cams out will be a waste of time. What did you do to verify 
>>> the spark plug wire order? Can you take a video of how the car is running?
>>>
>>> On Feb 29, 2016 7:39 PM, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>>
>>> i put the techtronics chip back in and put the older throttle body back 
>>> in with no changes in how the car is acting.  i also checked grounds and 
>>> ran some extras to the bundle on head, etc. just in case.
>>>
>>>  
>>>
>>> my issues make for a useless car, no way it could be driven.  so my 
>>> problems seem way beyond the little tuning people do to get their cars 
>>> running right.  this car ran and drove when i got it with very old and worn 
>>> injector seals and numerous vacuum lines with holes in it. it ran its best

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-03-18 Thread damac2004

oh boy i am feeling stupid and think i have found the smoking gun here.

is it possible that having 2 open holes on the back of the intake manifold 
made the car act this way?

this is not a california chasis so no egr stuff.  when i pulled the euro 
manifold one hole had a bolt stuck through it with rtv and another hole was 
held by bolts and gasket.

when i was transferring everything over to the stock manifold i remember 
poking down the hole with brake cleaner hose and hit what i thought was 
solid wall on each.  at the time never seeing egr stuff assumed it maybe 
would be drilled out for a car that needed that hardware.

i had filled the holes up with brake cleaner with that side up and don't 
think i paid close enough attention so this whole time it was installed on 
the car like that.

tonight as i went to transfer the old parts back on as my last hope effort 
i noticed some leakage when spraying brake cleaner and a light bulb went 
off.  so with those holes up if i spray one hole it fills the other hole 
up.  if you leave the manifold sit the level of fluid just sits there. 
 when i went to tilt sideways one way nothing happened but leaking out the 
top.  when i tilted the other way 2 of the runners leaked the fluid out.

i don't know these cars at all.  since the car wasn't running right i never 
wanted to let it run long since it wasn't acting like a real car.  my mom 
was watching and said i see some smoke and it sounds funny but of course i 
told her its just stuff burning off and that it wasn't running right. 
 couldn't really take a chance to look or feel closer.

i have seen people mention these cars can run crappy with vac leaks and 
they don't run without the intake tubes attached?  i'm hoping this is what 
it was.  going to make some block off plates and gasket to seal those 2 
holes up tight and then install all the old parts on it and hope like magic 
its back to normal and then i can smog it.

On Tuesday, March 1, 2016 at 10:41:38 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>
> I just thought of something. Any chance the fuel in the tank could be 
> contaminated? Since I think you said you're in California, the fuel here is 
> probably the worst in the U.S.. With the ethanol and other crazy additives 
> that's in it, it has an extremely short shelf life. 
> An other thing, I wonder how the fuel pumps are? If either the main or 
> transfer pump aren't healthy, that can cause weird running problems. The 
> easiest way to check the pumps is to disconnect the input line at the fuel 
> distributor and have someone turn on the ignition for a second. You should 
> get a really healthy stream of fuel. As I recall, the main pump operates at 
> around 50psi, give or take. 
> We're reaching for straws at this point, so the more you check that looks 
> correct, that's fewer possibilities to deal with. 
>
> ~Holland
> On Mar 1, 2016 10:15, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com > wrote:
>
>> I just checked and Marren is still in business and still rebuilding 
>> injectors of all ages: 
>>
>>  
>>
>> https://www.injector.com/ 
>>
>>  
>>
>> https://www.facebook.com/MarrenFuelInjection/ 
>>
>>  
>>
>> -Larry
>>
>>  
>>
>> *From:* mk2...@googlegroups.com  [mailto:
>> mk2...@googlegroups.com ] *On Behalf Of *Holland Phillips
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 1, 2016 12:56 PM
>> *To:* mk2...@googlegroups.com 
>> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
>>
>>  
>>
>> I agree with you Chad. At this point, I would perform a compression test. 
>> If that looks good, then I'm at a loss as to where to go next. Maybe look 
>> at the injectors. It's probably easier and cheaper to try and find some 
>> used, hopefully known good injectors, even if it's only one. Then you could 
>> swap them one at a time and see if you find a bad one. There are a couple 
>> of companies that do balancing and blueprinting of Motronic injectors. I 
>> had mine done by Marren Motorsports back in the mid '90's, so I don't know 
>> if they're still in business. They could perform just testing to check for 
>> flow and pattern.
>> Beyond that, I just don't know. 
>>
>> ~Holland
>>
>> On Feb 29, 2016 18:21, "Chad Rebuck" <chadr...@gmail.com > 
>> wrote:
>>
>> The key in the cam gear is only there for the alignment until the bolt is 
>> tightened. It doesn't really hold the cam gear in place once the bolt is 
>> tightened.  Same for the crank pulley too.  The key can break if the bolt 
>> gets loose enough for it to turn.  
>>
>> I'm just curious how the engine sounds as you said it ran smoother for a 
>> short while when you opened up the throttle.
>>
>> I'm ab

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-03-01 Thread 'Josh Wyte' via MK2-16v

I remember you working there.  ND was one of the OG tuner shops, I ordered my 
euro light relay harness and the hardened fog lights for my corrado from them 
back in the day...

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 1, 2016, at 3:55 PM, Holland Phillips <hollandphill...@gmail.com> 
> wrote:
> 
> I actually worked at New Dimensions for a while myself. What did your brother 
> do while working there? I don't recall someone with your last name. What is 
> his first? I was there 2000 - 2001, and did sales. Tim was a difficult guy to 
> work for, at least for me, even though I was the most successful sales person 
> while there. Still good memories...
> 
> ~Holland
> 
>> On Mar 1, 2016 14:46, "Les Noriel" <les.nor...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> Good to know.
>> 
>> My brother worked for New Dimensions for awhile. I remember the car shows. I 
>> bought my TEC 2RS glader for my corrado from Tim.
>> 
>>> On Mar 1, 2016 3:25 PM, "Holland Phillips" <hollandphill...@gmail.com> 
>>> wrote:
>>> The fuel pumps can easily be damaged just by running the car out of fuel. 
>>> One time, I was driving home from work, and noticed the fuel gauge was 
>>> reading very close to empty. I decided I would easily make it home, and 
>>> planned on getting gas on the way to work the next day. But when I started 
>>> the car the next morning, the gauge now read a little higher, so I assumed 
>>> I would easily make it to work, and would get fuel at lunch. I Made it 
>>> almost to work when the car died. The Fuel gauge was still reading above 
>>> the last line, so I didn't believe I was actually out of gas. So I 
>>> attempted to restart the car for a few minutes. Big mistake. I called AAA 
>>> and they brought a couple of gallons of gas. Car wouldn't start. I had it 
>>> towed to the shop where I had work done on the car when I didn't have time 
>>> to do it myself (New Dimensions - remember them?). Turned out I had fried 
>>> both pumps because they overheated since they are intended to be cooled by 
>>> the fuel. About $500 later, I had learned a very expensive lesson.
>>> 
>>> ~Holland
>>> 
>>>> On Mar 1, 2016 11:58, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com> wrote:
>>>> Good point on the fueling system.   Bad gas (Ethanol is the devil!), 
>>>> clogged fuel filter, clogged fuel lines, failing fuel pump(s) or failing 
>>>> injectors could definitely contribute to running issues – I would imagine.
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>> -Larry
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>> From: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] On Behalf 
>>>> Of Holland Phillips
>>>> Sent: Tuesday, March 1, 2016 1:42 PM
>>>> To: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
>>>> Subject: RE: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>> I just thought of something. Any chance the fuel in the tank could be 
>>>> contaminated? Since I think you said you're in California, the fuel here 
>>>> is probably the worst in the U.S.. With the ethanol and other crazy 
>>>> additives that's in it, it has an extremely short shelf life. 
>>>> An other thing, I wonder how the fuel pumps are? If either the main or 
>>>> transfer pump aren't healthy, that can cause weird running problems. The 
>>>> easiest way to check the pumps is to disconnect the input line at the fuel 
>>>> distributor and have someone turn on the ignition for a second. You should 
>>>> get a really healthy stream of fuel. As I recall, the main pump operates 
>>>> at around 50psi, give or take. 
>>>> We're reaching for straws at this point, so the more you check that looks 
>>>> correct, that's fewer possibilities to deal with.
>>>> 
>>>> ~Holland
>>>> 
>>>> On Mar 1, 2016 10:15, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> I just checked and Marren is still in business and still rebuilding 
>>>> injectors of all ages:
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>> https://www.injector.com/
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>> https://www.facebook.com/MarrenFuelInjection/
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>> -Larry
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>> From: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] On Behalf 
>>>> Of

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

And don't EVER listen to the people who actually know something...

~Holland
On Mar 1, 2016 4:12 PM, "'Matthew Yip' via MK2-16v" <
mk2-16v@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> Sounds like most people in the tuner business - they're the BEST and don't
> you dare question them.
>
> - Matthew -
>
> On Mar 1, 2016, at 18:33, Holland Phillips <hollandphill...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> You hit the nail on the head. Tim was a self righteous "my way or the
> highway" kind of guy. He basically sunk his own ship because of that
> attitude.
> The mechanic you're thinking of was Chris Lagatuta. He ended up leaving ND
> and opened his own shop down in San Jose called Autowerkstat. Has far as I
> know, he's still in business.
>
> ~Holland
> On Mar 1, 2016 3:05 PM, "Les Noriel" <les.nor...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> My brother Rodney worked there but I don't remember which years. I
>> remember when they tried selling all of the Calloway Turbo inventory. Then
>> he sold it and new owners who mismanaged it into insolvency.
>>
>> Tim was an a$$ to me on several occasions. Funny how that works. I can
>> imagine how he treated his employees. I'd heard the stories.
>>
>> He had one mechanic who was excellent but I'd forgotten his name.
>> On Mar 1, 2016 5:55 PM, "Holland Phillips" <hollandphill...@gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I actually worked at New Dimensions for a while myself. What did your
>>> brother do while working there? I don't recall someone with your last name.
>>> What is his first? I was there 2000 - 2001, and did sales. Tim was a
>>> difficult guy to work for, at least for me, even though I was the most
>>> successful sales person while there. Still good memories...
>>>
>>> ~Holland
>>> On Mar 1, 2016 14:46, "Les Noriel" <les.nor...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Good to know.
>>>>
>>>> My brother worked for New Dimensions for awhile. I remember the car
>>>> shows. I bought my TEC 2RS glader for my corrado from Tim.
>>>> On Mar 1, 2016 3:25 PM, "Holland Phillips" <hollandphill...@gmail.com>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> The fuel pumps can easily be damaged just by running the car out of
>>>>> fuel. One time, I was driving home from work, and noticed the fuel gauge
>>>>> was reading very close to empty. I decided I would easily make it home, 
>>>>> and
>>>>> planned on getting gas on the way to work the next day. But when I started
>>>>> the car the next morning, the gauge now read a little higher, so I assumed
>>>>> I would easily make it to work, and would get fuel at lunch. I Made it
>>>>> almost to work when the car died. The Fuel gauge was still reading above
>>>>> the last line, so I didn't believe I was actually out of gas. So I
>>>>> attempted to restart the car for a few minutes. Big mistake. I called AAA
>>>>> and they brought a couple of gallons of gas. Car wouldn't start. I had it
>>>>> towed to the shop where I had work done on the car when I didn't have time
>>>>> to do it myself (New Dimensions - remember them?). Turned out I had fried
>>>>> both pumps because they overheated since they are intended to be cooled by
>>>>> the fuel. About $500 later, I had learned a very expensive lesson.
>>>>>
>>>>> ~Holland
>>>>> On Mar 1, 2016 11:58, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Good point on the fueling system.   Bad gas (Ethanol is the devil!),
>>>>>> clogged fuel filter, clogged fuel lines, failing fuel pump(s) or failing
>>>>>> injectors could definitely contribute to running issues – I would 
>>>>>> imagine.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> -Larry
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> *From:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] *On
>>>>>> Behalf Of *Holland Phillips
>>>>>> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 1, 2016 1:42 PM
>>>>>> *To:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
>>>>>> *Subject:* RE: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I just thought of something. Any chance the fuel in the tank could be
>>>>>> contaminated? Since I think you said you're

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-03-01 Thread 'Matthew Yip' via MK2-16v

Sounds like most people in the tuner business - they're the BEST and don't you 
dare question them. 

- Matthew -

> On Mar 1, 2016, at 18:33, Holland Phillips <hollandphill...@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> You hit the nail on the head. Tim was a self righteous "my way or the 
> highway" kind of guy. He basically sunk his own ship because of that 
> attitude. 
> The mechanic you're thinking of was Chris Lagatuta. He ended up leaving ND 
> and opened his own shop down in San Jose called Autowerkstat. Has far as I 
> know, he's still in business.
> 
> ~Holland
> 
>> On Mar 1, 2016 3:05 PM, "Les Noriel" <les.nor...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> My brother Rodney worked there but I don't remember which years. I remember 
>> when they tried selling all of the Calloway Turbo inventory. Then he sold it 
>> and new owners who mismanaged it into insolvency. 
>> 
>> Tim was an a$$ to me on several occasions. Funny how that works. I can 
>> imagine how he treated his employees. I'd heard the stories.
>> 
>> He had one mechanic who was excellent but I'd forgotten his name. 
>>> On Mar 1, 2016 5:55 PM, "Holland Phillips" <hollandphill...@gmail.com> 
>>> wrote:
>>> I actually worked at New Dimensions for a while myself. What did your 
>>> brother do while working there? I don't recall someone with your last name. 
>>> What is his first? I was there 2000 - 2001, and did sales. Tim was a 
>>> difficult guy to work for, at least for me, even though I was the most 
>>> successful sales person while there. Still good memories...
>>> 
>>> ~Holland
>>> 
>>>> On Mar 1, 2016 14:46, "Les Noriel" <les.nor...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>> Good to know.
>>>> 
>>>> My brother worked for New Dimensions for awhile. I remember the car shows. 
>>>> I bought my TEC 2RS glader for my corrado from Tim.
>>>> 
>>>>> On Mar 1, 2016 3:25 PM, "Holland Phillips" <hollandphill...@gmail.com> 
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>> The fuel pumps can easily be damaged just by running the car out of fuel. 
>>>>> One time, I was driving home from work, and noticed the fuel gauge was 
>>>>> reading very close to empty. I decided I would easily make it home, and 
>>>>> planned on getting gas on the way to work the next day. But when I 
>>>>> started the car the next morning, the gauge now read a little higher, so 
>>>>> I assumed I would easily make it to work, and would get fuel at lunch. I 
>>>>> Made it almost to work when the car died. The Fuel gauge was still 
>>>>> reading above the last line, so I didn't believe I was actually out of 
>>>>> gas. So I attempted to restart the car for a few minutes. Big mistake. I 
>>>>> called AAA and they brought a couple of gallons of gas. Car wouldn't 
>>>>> start. I had it towed to the shop where I had work done on the car when I 
>>>>> didn't have time to do it myself (New Dimensions - remember them?). 
>>>>> Turned out I had fried both pumps because they overheated since they are 
>>>>> intended to be cooled by the fuel. About $500 later, I had learned a very 
>>>>> expensive lesson.
>>>>> 
>>>>> ~Holland
>>>>> 
>>>>>> On Mar 1, 2016 11:58, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com> wrote:
>>>>>> Good point on the fueling system.   Bad gas (Ethanol is the devil!), 
>>>>>> clogged fuel filter, clogged fuel lines, failing fuel pump(s) or failing 
>>>>>> injectors could definitely contribute to running issues – I would 
>>>>>> imagine.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>>  
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> -Larry
>>>>>> 
>>>>>>  
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> From: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] On 
>>>>>> Behalf Of Holland Phillips
>>>>>> Sent: Tuesday, March 1, 2016 1:42 PM
>>>>>> To: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
>>>>>> Subject: RE: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
>>>>>> 
>>>>>>  
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> I just thought of something. Any chance the fuel in the tank could be 
>>>>>> contaminated? Since I think you said you're in California, the fuel here 
>>>>>> is probably the worst in the U.S.. With the ethanol

RE: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

You hit the nail on the head. Tim was a self righteous "my way or the
highway" kind of guy. He basically sunk his own ship because of that
attitude.
The mechanic you're thinking of was Chris Lagatuta. He ended up leaving ND
and opened his own shop down in San Jose called Autowerkstat. Has far as I
know, he's still in business.

~Holland
On Mar 1, 2016 3:05 PM, "Les Noriel" <les.nor...@gmail.com> wrote:

> My brother Rodney worked there but I don't remember which years. I
> remember when they tried selling all of the Calloway Turbo inventory. Then
> he sold it and new owners who mismanaged it into insolvency.
>
> Tim was an a$$ to me on several occasions. Funny how that works. I can
> imagine how he treated his employees. I'd heard the stories.
>
> He had one mechanic who was excellent but I'd forgotten his name.
> On Mar 1, 2016 5:55 PM, "Holland Phillips" <hollandphill...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> I actually worked at New Dimensions for a while myself. What did your
>> brother do while working there? I don't recall someone with your last name.
>> What is his first? I was there 2000 - 2001, and did sales. Tim was a
>> difficult guy to work for, at least for me, even though I was the most
>> successful sales person while there. Still good memories...
>>
>> ~Holland
>> On Mar 1, 2016 14:46, "Les Noriel" <les.nor...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Good to know.
>>>
>>> My brother worked for New Dimensions for awhile. I remember the car
>>> shows. I bought my TEC 2RS glader for my corrado from Tim.
>>> On Mar 1, 2016 3:25 PM, "Holland Phillips" <hollandphill...@gmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> The fuel pumps can easily be damaged just by running the car out of
>>>> fuel. One time, I was driving home from work, and noticed the fuel gauge
>>>> was reading very close to empty. I decided I would easily make it home, and
>>>> planned on getting gas on the way to work the next day. But when I started
>>>> the car the next morning, the gauge now read a little higher, so I assumed
>>>> I would easily make it to work, and would get fuel at lunch. I Made it
>>>> almost to work when the car died. The Fuel gauge was still reading above
>>>> the last line, so I didn't believe I was actually out of gas. So I
>>>> attempted to restart the car for a few minutes. Big mistake. I called AAA
>>>> and they brought a couple of gallons of gas. Car wouldn't start. I had it
>>>> towed to the shop where I had work done on the car when I didn't have time
>>>> to do it myself (New Dimensions - remember them?). Turned out I had fried
>>>> both pumps because they overheated since they are intended to be cooled by
>>>> the fuel. About $500 later, I had learned a very expensive lesson.
>>>>
>>>> ~Holland
>>>> On Mar 1, 2016 11:58, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Good point on the fueling system.   Bad gas (Ethanol is the devil!),
>>>>> clogged fuel filter, clogged fuel lines, failing fuel pump(s) or failing
>>>>> injectors could definitely contribute to running issues – I would imagine.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> -Larry
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> *From:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] *On
>>>>> Behalf Of *Holland Phillips
>>>>> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 1, 2016 1:42 PM
>>>>> *To:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
>>>>> *Subject:* RE: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> I just thought of something. Any chance the fuel in the tank could be
>>>>> contaminated? Since I think you said you're in California, the fuel here 
>>>>> is
>>>>> probably the worst in the U.S.. With the ethanol and other crazy additives
>>>>> that's in it, it has an extremely short shelf life.
>>>>> An other thing, I wonder how the fuel pumps are? If either the main or
>>>>> transfer pump aren't healthy, that can cause weird running problems. The
>>>>> easiest way to check the pumps is to disconnect the input line at the fuel
>>>>> distributor and have someone turn on the ignition for a second. You should
>>>>> get a really healthy stream of fuel. As I recall, the main pump operates 
>>>>> at
>>>>> around 50psi, give or ta

RE: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

I actually worked at New Dimensions for a while myself. What did your
brother do while working there? I don't recall someone with your last name.
What is his first? I was there 2000 - 2001, and did sales. Tim was a
difficult guy to work for, at least for me, even though I was the most
successful sales person while there. Still good memories...

~Holland
On Mar 1, 2016 14:46, "Les Noriel" <les.nor...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Good to know.
>
> My brother worked for New Dimensions for awhile. I remember the car shows.
> I bought my TEC 2RS glader for my corrado from Tim.
> On Mar 1, 2016 3:25 PM, "Holland Phillips" <hollandphill...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> The fuel pumps can easily be damaged just by running the car out of fuel.
>> One time, I was driving home from work, and noticed the fuel gauge was
>> reading very close to empty. I decided I would easily make it home, and
>> planned on getting gas on the way to work the next day. But when I started
>> the car the next morning, the gauge now read a little higher, so I assumed
>> I would easily make it to work, and would get fuel at lunch. I Made it
>> almost to work when the car died. The Fuel gauge was still reading above
>> the last line, so I didn't believe I was actually out of gas. So I
>> attempted to restart the car for a few minutes. Big mistake. I called AAA
>> and they brought a couple of gallons of gas. Car wouldn't start. I had it
>> towed to the shop where I had work done on the car when I didn't have time
>> to do it myself (New Dimensions - remember them?). Turned out I had fried
>> both pumps because they overheated since they are intended to be cooled by
>> the fuel. About $500 later, I had learned a very expensive lesson.
>>
>> ~Holland
>> On Mar 1, 2016 11:58, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Good point on the fueling system.   Bad gas (Ethanol is the devil!),
>>> clogged fuel filter, clogged fuel lines, failing fuel pump(s) or failing
>>> injectors could definitely contribute to running issues – I would imagine.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -Larry
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *From:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] *On
>>> Behalf Of *Holland Phillips
>>> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 1, 2016 1:42 PM
>>> *To:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
>>> *Subject:* RE: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I just thought of something. Any chance the fuel in the tank could be
>>> contaminated? Since I think you said you're in California, the fuel here is
>>> probably the worst in the U.S.. With the ethanol and other crazy additives
>>> that's in it, it has an extremely short shelf life.
>>> An other thing, I wonder how the fuel pumps are? If either the main or
>>> transfer pump aren't healthy, that can cause weird running problems. The
>>> easiest way to check the pumps is to disconnect the input line at the fuel
>>> distributor and have someone turn on the ignition for a second. You should
>>> get a really healthy stream of fuel. As I recall, the main pump operates at
>>> around 50psi, give or take.
>>> We're reaching for straws at this point, so the more you check that
>>> looks correct, that's fewer possibilities to deal with.
>>>
>>> ~Holland
>>>
>>> On Mar 1, 2016 10:15, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> I just checked and Marren is still in business and still rebuilding
>>> injectors of all ages:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> https://www.injector.com/
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> https://www.facebook.com/MarrenFuelInjection/
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -Larry
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *From:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] *On
>>> Behalf Of *Holland Phillips
>>> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 1, 2016 12:56 PM
>>> *To:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
>>> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I agree with you Chad. At this point, I would perform a compression
>>> test. If that looks good, then I'm at a loss as to where to go next. Maybe
>>> look at the injectors. It's probably easier and cheaper to try and find
>>> some used, hopefully known good injectors, even if it's only one. Then you
>>> could swap them one at a time and see if you find a bad one. There are a
>>> couple of companies that do balancing and blueprinting of Motro

RE: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-03-01 Thread Les Noriel

Good to know.

My brother worked for New Dimensions for awhile. I remember the car shows.
I bought my TEC 2RS glader for my corrado from Tim.
On Mar 1, 2016 3:25 PM, "Holland Phillips" <hollandphill...@gmail.com>
wrote:

> The fuel pumps can easily be damaged just by running the car out of fuel.
> One time, I was driving home from work, and noticed the fuel gauge was
> reading very close to empty. I decided I would easily make it home, and
> planned on getting gas on the way to work the next day. But when I started
> the car the next morning, the gauge now read a little higher, so I assumed
> I would easily make it to work, and would get fuel at lunch. I Made it
> almost to work when the car died. The Fuel gauge was still reading above
> the last line, so I didn't believe I was actually out of gas. So I
> attempted to restart the car for a few minutes. Big mistake. I called AAA
> and they brought a couple of gallons of gas. Car wouldn't start. I had it
> towed to the shop where I had work done on the car when I didn't have time
> to do it myself (New Dimensions - remember them?). Turned out I had fried
> both pumps because they overheated since they are intended to be cooled by
> the fuel. About $500 later, I had learned a very expensive lesson.
>
> ~Holland
> On Mar 1, 2016 11:58, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com> wrote:
>
>> Good point on the fueling system.   Bad gas (Ethanol is the devil!),
>> clogged fuel filter, clogged fuel lines, failing fuel pump(s) or failing
>> injectors could definitely contribute to running issues – I would imagine.
>>
>>
>>
>> -Larry
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] *On
>> Behalf Of *Holland Phillips
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 1, 2016 1:42 PM
>> *To:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
>> *Subject:* RE: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
>>
>>
>>
>> I just thought of something. Any chance the fuel in the tank could be
>> contaminated? Since I think you said you're in California, the fuel here is
>> probably the worst in the U.S.. With the ethanol and other crazy additives
>> that's in it, it has an extremely short shelf life.
>> An other thing, I wonder how the fuel pumps are? If either the main or
>> transfer pump aren't healthy, that can cause weird running problems. The
>> easiest way to check the pumps is to disconnect the input line at the fuel
>> distributor and have someone turn on the ignition for a second. You should
>> get a really healthy stream of fuel. As I recall, the main pump operates at
>> around 50psi, give or take.
>> We're reaching for straws at this point, so the more you check that looks
>> correct, that's fewer possibilities to deal with.
>>
>> ~Holland
>>
>> On Mar 1, 2016 10:15, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com> wrote:
>>
>> I just checked and Marren is still in business and still rebuilding
>> injectors of all ages:
>>
>>
>>
>> https://www.injector.com/
>>
>>
>>
>> https://www.facebook.com/MarrenFuelInjection/
>>
>>
>>
>> -Larry
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] *On
>> Behalf Of *Holland Phillips
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 1, 2016 12:56 PM
>> *To:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
>> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
>>
>>
>>
>> I agree with you Chad. At this point, I would perform a compression test.
>> If that looks good, then I'm at a loss as to where to go next. Maybe look
>> at the injectors. It's probably easier and cheaper to try and find some
>> used, hopefully known good injectors, even if it's only one. Then you could
>> swap them one at a time and see if you find a bad one. There are a couple
>> of companies that do balancing and blueprinting of Motronic injectors. I
>> had mine done by Marren Motorsports back in the mid '90's, so I don't know
>> if they're still in business. They could perform just testing to check for
>> flow and pattern.
>> Beyond that, I just don't know.
>>
>> ~Holland
>>
>> On Feb 29, 2016 18:21, "Chad Rebuck" <chadreb...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> The key in the cam gear is only there for the alignment until the bolt is
>> tightened. It doesn't really hold the cam gear in place once the bolt is
>> tightened.  Same for the crank pulley too.  The key can break if the bolt
>> gets loose enough for it to turn.
>>
>> I'm just curious how the engine sounds as you said it ran smoother for a
>> short while when you opene

RE: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-03-01 Thread Walz, Jesse

Funny how those expensive lessons stay with you the longest;)

Jesse

From: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of 
Holland Phillips
Sent: Tuesday, March 01, 2016 3:25 PM
To: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
Subject: RE: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

The fuel pumps can easily be damaged just by running the car out of fuel. One 
time, I was driving home from work, and noticed the fuel gauge was reading very 
close to empty. I decided I would easily make it home, and planned on getting 
gas on the way to work the next day. But when I started the car the next 
morning, the gauge now read a little higher, so I assumed I would easily make 
it to work, and would get fuel at lunch. I Made it almost to work when the car 
died. The Fuel gauge was still reading above the last line, so I didn't believe 
I was actually out of gas. So I attempted to restart the car for a few minutes. 
Big mistake. I called AAA and they brought a couple of gallons of gas. Car 
wouldn't start. I had it towed to the shop where I had work done on the car 
when I didn't have time to do it myself (New Dimensions - remember them?). 
Turned out I had fried both pumps because they overheated since they are 
intended to be cooled by the fuel. About $500 later, I had learned a very 
expensive lesson.

~Holland
On Mar 1, 2016 11:58, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com<mailto:la...@sinu.com>> 
wrote:
Good point on the fueling system.   Bad gas (Ethanol is the devil!), clogged 
fuel filter, clogged fuel lines, failing fuel pump(s) or failing injectors 
could definitely contribute to running issues – I would imagine.

-Larry

From: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com<mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com> 
[mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com<mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com>] On Behalf Of 
Holland Phillips
Sent: Tuesday, March 1, 2016 1:42 PM
To: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com<mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com>
Subject: RE: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

I just thought of something. Any chance the fuel in the tank could be 
contaminated? Since I think you said you're in California, the fuel here is 
probably the worst in the U.S.. With the ethanol and other crazy additives 
that's in it, it has an extremely short shelf life.
An other thing, I wonder how the fuel pumps are? If either the main or transfer 
pump aren't healthy, that can cause weird running problems. The easiest way to 
check the pumps is to disconnect the input line at the fuel distributor and 
have someone turn on the ignition for a second. You should get a really healthy 
stream of fuel. As I recall, the main pump operates at around 50psi, give or 
take.
We're reaching for straws at this point, so the more you check that looks 
correct, that's fewer possibilities to deal with.

~Holland
On Mar 1, 2016 10:15, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com<mailto:la...@sinu.com>> 
wrote:
I just checked and Marren is still in business and still rebuilding injectors 
of all ages:

https://www.injector.com/

https://www.facebook.com/MarrenFuelInjection/

-Larry

From: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com<mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com> 
[mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com<mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com>] On Behalf Of 
Holland Phillips
Sent: Tuesday, March 1, 2016 12:56 PM
To: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com<mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

I agree with you Chad. At this point, I would perform a compression test. If 
that looks good, then I'm at a loss as to where to go next. Maybe look at the 
injectors. It's probably easier and cheaper to try and find some used, 
hopefully known good injectors, even if it's only one. Then you could swap them 
one at a time and see if you find a bad one. There are a couple of companies 
that do balancing and blueprinting of Motronic injectors. I had mine done by 
Marren Motorsports back in the mid '90's, so I don't know if they're still in 
business. They could perform just testing to check for flow and pattern.
Beyond that, I just don't know.

~Holland
On Feb 29, 2016 18:21, "Chad Rebuck" 
<chadreb...@gmail.com<mailto:chadreb...@gmail.com>> wrote:

The key in the cam gear is only there for the alignment until the bolt is 
tightened. It doesn't really hold the cam gear in place once the bolt is 
tightened.  Same for the crank pulley too.  The key can break if the bolt gets 
loose enough for it to turn.

I'm just curious how the engine sounds as you said it ran smoother for a short 
while when you opened up the throttle.

I'm about out of ideas.  If you take it to a shop the first thing they're going 
to do is check the timing again and check the compression I bet.
On Feb 29, 2016 9:05 PM, "damac2004" 
<damac2...@sbcglobal.net<mailto:damac2...@sbcglobal.net>> wrote:
im afraid to run this car for long but what would be better, a video from the 
engine bay or tailpipe?

i didn't ch

RE: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

The fuel pumps can easily be damaged just by running the car out of fuel.
One time, I was driving home from work, and noticed the fuel gauge was
reading very close to empty. I decided I would easily make it home, and
planned on getting gas on the way to work the next day. But when I started
the car the next morning, the gauge now read a little higher, so I assumed
I would easily make it to work, and would get fuel at lunch. I Made it
almost to work when the car died. The Fuel gauge was still reading above
the last line, so I didn't believe I was actually out of gas. So I
attempted to restart the car for a few minutes. Big mistake. I called AAA
and they brought a couple of gallons of gas. Car wouldn't start. I had it
towed to the shop where I had work done on the car when I didn't have time
to do it myself (New Dimensions - remember them?). Turned out I had fried
both pumps because they overheated since they are intended to be cooled by
the fuel. About $500 later, I had learned a very expensive lesson.

~Holland
On Mar 1, 2016 11:58, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com> wrote:

> Good point on the fueling system.   Bad gas (Ethanol is the devil!),
> clogged fuel filter, clogged fuel lines, failing fuel pump(s) or failing
> injectors could definitely contribute to running issues – I would imagine.
>
>
>
> -Larry
>
>
>
> *From:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] *On
> Behalf Of *Holland Phillips
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 1, 2016 1:42 PM
> *To:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
> *Subject:* RE: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
>
>
>
> I just thought of something. Any chance the fuel in the tank could be
> contaminated? Since I think you said you're in California, the fuel here is
> probably the worst in the U.S.. With the ethanol and other crazy additives
> that's in it, it has an extremely short shelf life.
> An other thing, I wonder how the fuel pumps are? If either the main or
> transfer pump aren't healthy, that can cause weird running problems. The
> easiest way to check the pumps is to disconnect the input line at the fuel
> distributor and have someone turn on the ignition for a second. You should
> get a really healthy stream of fuel. As I recall, the main pump operates at
> around 50psi, give or take.
> We're reaching for straws at this point, so the more you check that looks
> correct, that's fewer possibilities to deal with.
>
> ~Holland
>
> On Mar 1, 2016 10:15, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com> wrote:
>
> I just checked and Marren is still in business and still rebuilding
> injectors of all ages:
>
>
>
> https://www.injector.com/
>
>
>
> https://www.facebook.com/MarrenFuelInjection/
>
>
>
> -Larry
>
>
>
> *From:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] *On
> Behalf Of *Holland Phillips
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 1, 2016 12:56 PM
> *To:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
>
>
>
> I agree with you Chad. At this point, I would perform a compression test.
> If that looks good, then I'm at a loss as to where to go next. Maybe look
> at the injectors. It's probably easier and cheaper to try and find some
> used, hopefully known good injectors, even if it's only one. Then you could
> swap them one at a time and see if you find a bad one. There are a couple
> of companies that do balancing and blueprinting of Motronic injectors. I
> had mine done by Marren Motorsports back in the mid '90's, so I don't know
> if they're still in business. They could perform just testing to check for
> flow and pattern.
> Beyond that, I just don't know.
>
> ~Holland
>
> On Feb 29, 2016 18:21, "Chad Rebuck" <chadreb...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> The key in the cam gear is only there for the alignment until the bolt is
> tightened. It doesn't really hold the cam gear in place once the bolt is
> tightened.  Same for the crank pulley too.  The key can break if the bolt
> gets loose enough for it to turn.
>
> I'm just curious how the engine sounds as you said it ran smoother for a
> short while when you opened up the throttle.
>
> I'm about out of ideas.  If you take it to a shop the first thing they're
> going to do is check the timing again and check the compression I bet.
>
> On Feb 29, 2016 9:05 PM, "damac2004" <damac2...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> im afraid to run this car for long but what would be better, a video from
> the engine bay or tailpipe?
>
>
>
> i didn't change the plug order, etc. when doing all this work, just popped
> the distributor off and layed it in engine bay with battery out.
>
>
>
> the cam i took off the car did have the cam gear tooth broken but it
> didn'

RE: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-03-01 Thread Larry Velez

Good point on the fueling system.   Bad gas (Ethanol is the devil!), clogged 
fuel filter, clogged fuel lines, failing fuel pump(s) or failing injectors 
could definitely contribute to running issues – I would imagine.

-Larry

From: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of 
Holland Phillips
Sent: Tuesday, March 1, 2016 1:42 PM
To: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
Subject: RE: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

I just thought of something. Any chance the fuel in the tank could be 
contaminated? Since I think you said you're in California, the fuel here is 
probably the worst in the U.S.. With the ethanol and other crazy additives 
that's in it, it has an extremely short shelf life.
An other thing, I wonder how the fuel pumps are? If either the main or transfer 
pump aren't healthy, that can cause weird running problems. The easiest way to 
check the pumps is to disconnect the input line at the fuel distributor and 
have someone turn on the ignition for a second. You should get a really healthy 
stream of fuel. As I recall, the main pump operates at around 50psi, give or 
take.
We're reaching for straws at this point, so the more you check that looks 
correct, that's fewer possibilities to deal with.

~Holland
On Mar 1, 2016 10:15, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com<mailto:la...@sinu.com>> 
wrote:
I just checked and Marren is still in business and still rebuilding injectors 
of all ages:

https://www.injector.com/

https://www.facebook.com/MarrenFuelInjection/

-Larry

From: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com<mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com> 
[mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com<mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com>] On Behalf Of 
Holland Phillips
Sent: Tuesday, March 1, 2016 12:56 PM
To: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com<mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

I agree with you Chad. At this point, I would perform a compression test. If 
that looks good, then I'm at a loss as to where to go next. Maybe look at the 
injectors. It's probably easier and cheaper to try and find some used, 
hopefully known good injectors, even if it's only one. Then you could swap them 
one at a time and see if you find a bad one. There are a couple of companies 
that do balancing and blueprinting of Motronic injectors. I had mine done by 
Marren Motorsports back in the mid '90's, so I don't know if they're still in 
business. They could perform just testing to check for flow and pattern.
Beyond that, I just don't know.

~Holland
On Feb 29, 2016 18:21, "Chad Rebuck" 
<chadreb...@gmail.com<mailto:chadreb...@gmail.com>> wrote:

The key in the cam gear is only there for the alignment until the bolt is 
tightened. It doesn't really hold the cam gear in place once the bolt is 
tightened.  Same for the crank pulley too.  The key can break if the bolt gets 
loose enough for it to turn.

I'm just curious how the engine sounds as you said it ran smoother for a short 
while when you opened up the throttle.

I'm about out of ideas.  If you take it to a shop the first thing they're going 
to do is check the timing again and check the compression I bet.
On Feb 29, 2016 9:05 PM, "damac2004" 
<damac2...@sbcglobal.net<mailto:damac2...@sbcglobal.net>> wrote:
im afraid to run this car for long but what would be better, a video from the 
engine bay or tailpipe?

i didn't change the plug order, etc. when doing all this work, just popped the 
distributor off and layed it in engine bay with battery out.

the cam i took off the car did have the cam gear tooth broken but it didn't 
move based on how the keyway lined up, is that surprising?  i bought another 
cam pulley off a vortex member and he sold it to me the exact same way and told 
me every one he has taken off came the same way?  i thought that was nuts but 
have seen through forums searching it has happened to others.  i got a new cam 
pulley while doing all this work and its still fine.  and i have to assume the 
crank is fine as well since it was good running and all the marks are lining up 
correctly still.

On Monday, February 29, 2016 at 5:56:38 PM UTC-8, chadrebuck wrote:

Also check that the cam sprocket is located in the right place on the cam. If 
the tooth broke off of the cam gear then it could rotate causing the timing to 
be incorrect. Did you mention that the cam sprocket had a broken locating tooth?
On Feb 29, 2016 7:47 PM, "Chad Rebuck" 
<chadr...@gmail.com<mailto:chadr...@gmail.com>> wrote:

Changing the cams out will be a waste of time. What did you do to verify the 
spark plug wire order? Can you take a video of how the car is running?
On Feb 29, 2016 7:39 PM, "damac2004" 
<dama...@sbcglobal.net<mailto:dama...@sbcglobal.net>> wrote:
i put the techtronics chip back in and put the older throttle body back in with 
no changes in how the car is acting.  i also checked grounds and ran some

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-03-01 Thread Chad Rebuck

Good to know injector cleaning is available, but lets not mislead him. The
injectors are not the problem here.  His car was running just weeks
earlier.

Pull the distributor cap to make sure there is nothing broken that would
stop the spark from getting to the plugs.  Remove all spark plugs and check
for spark at the plugs (pull fuse for the fuel pump first).

Spark ok?  Put all plugs back in place then spray some starter fluid or gas
into the intake manifold.  Does car run for a brief moment?

On Tue, Mar 1, 2016 at 1:15 PM, Larry Velez <la...@sinu.com> wrote:

> I just checked and Marren is still in business and still rebuilding
> injectors of all ages:
>
>
>
> https://www.injector.com/
>
>
>
> https://www.facebook.com/MarrenFuelInjection/
>
>
>
> -Larry
>
>
>
> *From:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] *On
> Behalf Of *Holland Phillips
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 1, 2016 12:56 PM
> *To:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
>
>
>
> I agree with you Chad. At this point, I would perform a compression test.
> If that looks good, then I'm at a loss as to where to go next. Maybe look
> at the injectors. It's probably easier and cheaper to try and find some
> used, hopefully known good injectors, even if it's only one. Then you could
> swap them one at a time and see if you find a bad one. There are a couple
> of companies that do balancing and blueprinting of Motronic injectors. I
> had mine done by Marren Motorsports back in the mid '90's, so I don't know
> if they're still in business. They could perform just testing to check for
> flow and pattern.
>
> Beyond that, I just don't know.
>
> ~Holland
>
> On Feb 29, 2016 18:21, "Chad Rebuck" <chadreb...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> The key in the cam gear is only there for the alignment until the bolt is
> tightened. It doesn't really hold the cam gear in place once the bolt is
> tightened.  Same for the crank pulley too.  The key can break if the bolt
> gets loose enough for it to turn.
>
> I'm just curious how the engine sounds as you said it ran smoother for a
> short while when you opened up the throttle.
>
> I'm about out of ideas.  If you take it to a shop the first thing they're
> going to do is check the timing again and check the compression I bet.
>
> On Feb 29, 2016 9:05 PM, "damac2004" <damac2...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> im afraid to run this car for long but what would be better, a video from
> the engine bay or tailpipe?
>
>
>
> i didn't change the plug order, etc. when doing all this work, just popped
> the distributor off and layed it in engine bay with battery out.
>
>
>
> the cam i took off the car did have the cam gear tooth broken but it
> didn't move based on how the keyway lined up, is that surprising?  i bought
> another cam pulley off a vortex member and he sold it to me the exact same
> way and told me every one he has taken off came the same way?  i thought
> that was nuts but have seen through forums searching it has happened to
> others.  i got a new cam pulley while doing all this work and its still
> fine.  and i have to assume the crank is fine as well since it was good
> running and all the marks are lining up correctly still.
>
> On Monday, February 29, 2016 at 5:56:38 PM UTC-8, chadrebuck wrote:
>
> Also check that the cam sprocket is located in the right place on the cam.
> If the tooth broke off of the cam gear then it could rotate causing the
> timing to be incorrect. Did you mention that the cam sprocket had a broken
> locating tooth?
>
> On Feb 29, 2016 7:47 PM, "Chad Rebuck" <chadr...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Changing the cams out will be a waste of time. What did you do to verify
> the spark plug wire order? Can you take a video of how the car is running?
>
> On Feb 29, 2016 7:39 PM, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> i put the techtronics chip back in and put the older throttle body back in
> with no changes in how the car is acting.  i also checked grounds and ran
> some extras to the bundle on head, etc. just in case.
>
>
>
> my issues make for a useless car, no way it could be driven.  so my
> problems seem way beyond the little tuning people do to get their cars
> running right.  this car ran and drove when i got it with very old and worn
> injector seals and numerous vacuum lines with holes in it. it ran its best
> when hot and on the throttle never gave out on me or died. although it had
> goofy issues with starting consistently and idling a little
> high/rough/inconsistent at times.
>
>
>
> and i see people mention 02 sensors and cts making for a rough r

RE: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

I just thought of something. Any chance the fuel in the tank could be
contaminated? Since I think you said you're in California, the fuel here is
probably the worst in the U.S.. With the ethanol and other crazy additives
that's in it, it has an extremely short shelf life.
An other thing, I wonder how the fuel pumps are? If either the main or
transfer pump aren't healthy, that can cause weird running problems. The
easiest way to check the pumps is to disconnect the input line at the fuel
distributor and have someone turn on the ignition for a second. You should
get a really healthy stream of fuel. As I recall, the main pump operates at
around 50psi, give or take.
We're reaching for straws at this point, so the more you check that looks
correct, that's fewer possibilities to deal with.

~Holland
On Mar 1, 2016 10:15, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com> wrote:

> I just checked and Marren is still in business and still rebuilding
> injectors of all ages:
>
>
>
> https://www.injector.com/
>
>
>
> https://www.facebook.com/MarrenFuelInjection/
>
>
>
> -Larry
>
>
>
> *From:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] *On
> Behalf Of *Holland Phillips
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 1, 2016 12:56 PM
> *To:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
>
>
>
> I agree with you Chad. At this point, I would perform a compression test.
> If that looks good, then I'm at a loss as to where to go next. Maybe look
> at the injectors. It's probably easier and cheaper to try and find some
> used, hopefully known good injectors, even if it's only one. Then you could
> swap them one at a time and see if you find a bad one. There are a couple
> of companies that do balancing and blueprinting of Motronic injectors. I
> had mine done by Marren Motorsports back in the mid '90's, so I don't know
> if they're still in business. They could perform just testing to check for
> flow and pattern.
> Beyond that, I just don't know.
>
> ~Holland
>
> On Feb 29, 2016 18:21, "Chad Rebuck" <chadreb...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> The key in the cam gear is only there for the alignment until the bolt is
> tightened. It doesn't really hold the cam gear in place once the bolt is
> tightened.  Same for the crank pulley too.  The key can break if the bolt
> gets loose enough for it to turn.
>
> I'm just curious how the engine sounds as you said it ran smoother for a
> short while when you opened up the throttle.
>
> I'm about out of ideas.  If you take it to a shop the first thing they're
> going to do is check the timing again and check the compression I bet.
>
> On Feb 29, 2016 9:05 PM, "damac2004" <damac2...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> im afraid to run this car for long but what would be better, a video from
> the engine bay or tailpipe?
>
>
>
> i didn't change the plug order, etc. when doing all this work, just popped
> the distributor off and layed it in engine bay with battery out.
>
>
>
> the cam i took off the car did have the cam gear tooth broken but it
> didn't move based on how the keyway lined up, is that surprising?  i bought
> another cam pulley off a vortex member and he sold it to me the exact same
> way and told me every one he has taken off came the same way?  i thought
> that was nuts but have seen through forums searching it has happened to
> others.  i got a new cam pulley while doing all this work and its still
> fine.  and i have to assume the crank is fine as well since it was good
> running and all the marks are lining up correctly still.
>
> On Monday, February 29, 2016 at 5:56:38 PM UTC-8, chadrebuck wrote:
>
> Also check that the cam sprocket is located in the right place on the cam.
> If the tooth broke off of the cam gear then it could rotate causing the
> timing to be incorrect. Did you mention that the cam sprocket had a broken
> locating tooth?
>
> On Feb 29, 2016 7:47 PM, "Chad Rebuck" <chadr...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Changing the cams out will be a waste of time. What did you do to verify
> the spark plug wire order? Can you take a video of how the car is running?
>
> On Feb 29, 2016 7:39 PM, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> i put the techtronics chip back in and put the older throttle body back in
> with no changes in how the car is acting.  i also checked grounds and ran
> some extras to the bundle on head, etc. just in case.
>
>
>
> my issues make for a useless car, no way it could be driven.  so my
> problems seem way beyond the little tuning people do to get their cars
> running right.  this car ran and drove when i got it with very old and worn
> injector seals and numerous vacuum lines with

RE: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-03-01 Thread Larry Velez

I just checked and Marren is still in business and still rebuilding injectors 
of all ages:

https://www.injector.com/

https://www.facebook.com/MarrenFuelInjection/

-Larry

From: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of 
Holland Phillips
Sent: Tuesday, March 1, 2016 12:56 PM
To: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?


I agree with you Chad. At this point, I would perform a compression test. If 
that looks good, then I'm at a loss as to where to go next. Maybe look at the 
injectors. It's probably easier and cheaper to try and find some used, 
hopefully known good injectors, even if it's only one. Then you could swap them 
one at a time and see if you find a bad one. There are a couple of companies 
that do balancing and blueprinting of Motronic injectors. I had mine done by 
Marren Motorsports back in the mid '90's, so I don't know if they're still in 
business. They could perform just testing to check for flow and pattern.
Beyond that, I just don't know.

~Holland
On Feb 29, 2016 18:21, "Chad Rebuck" 
<chadreb...@gmail.com<mailto:chadreb...@gmail.com>> wrote:

The key in the cam gear is only there for the alignment until the bolt is 
tightened. It doesn't really hold the cam gear in place once the bolt is 
tightened.  Same for the crank pulley too.  The key can break if the bolt gets 
loose enough for it to turn.

I'm just curious how the engine sounds as you said it ran smoother for a short 
while when you opened up the throttle.

I'm about out of ideas.  If you take it to a shop the first thing they're going 
to do is check the timing again and check the compression I bet.
On Feb 29, 2016 9:05 PM, "damac2004" 
<damac2...@sbcglobal.net<mailto:damac2...@sbcglobal.net>> wrote:
im afraid to run this car for long but what would be better, a video from the 
engine bay or tailpipe?

i didn't change the plug order, etc. when doing all this work, just popped the 
distributor off and layed it in engine bay with battery out.

the cam i took off the car did have the cam gear tooth broken but it didn't 
move based on how the keyway lined up, is that surprising?  i bought another 
cam pulley off a vortex member and he sold it to me the exact same way and told 
me every one he has taken off came the same way?  i thought that was nuts but 
have seen through forums searching it has happened to others.  i got a new cam 
pulley while doing all this work and its still fine.  and i have to assume the 
crank is fine as well since it was good running and all the marks are lining up 
correctly still.

On Monday, February 29, 2016 at 5:56:38 PM UTC-8, chadrebuck wrote:

Also check that the cam sprocket is located in the right place on the cam. If 
the tooth broke off of the cam gear then it could rotate causing the timing to 
be incorrect. Did you mention that the cam sprocket had a broken locating tooth?
On Feb 29, 2016 7:47 PM, "Chad Rebuck" 
<chadr...@gmail.com<mailto:chadr...@gmail.com>> wrote:

Changing the cams out will be a waste of time. What did you do to verify the 
spark plug wire order? Can you take a video of how the car is running?
On Feb 29, 2016 7:39 PM, "damac2004" 
<dama...@sbcglobal.net<mailto:dama...@sbcglobal.net>> wrote:
i put the techtronics chip back in and put the older throttle body back in with 
no changes in how the car is acting.  i also checked grounds and ran some 
extras to the bundle on head, etc. just in case.

my issues make for a useless car, no way it could be driven.  so my problems 
seem way beyond the little tuning people do to get their cars running right.  
this car ran and drove when i got it with very old and worn injector seals and 
numerous vacuum lines with holes in it. it ran its best when hot and on the 
throttle never gave out on me or died. although it had goofy issues with 
starting consistently and idling a little high/rough/inconsistent at times.

and i see people mention 02 sensors and cts making for a rough running car 
possibly but again this is way worse than that.

i'm stuck so tomorrow i am going to put the old cams, etc. back on and cross my 
fingers.

On Saturday, February 27, 2016 at 8:41:59 PM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:

Since the Mk 2 cars were all pre OBD, they had only one O2 sensor which was 
mounted before the cat. So the ECU never knew if the cat even existed or was 
functioning properly. Now that I think about it, if the O2 sensor has no 
output, or was not connected, the ECU will go into "safe mode", which is full 
rich. Hence your poor fuel mileage. I also recalled that the O2 sensor on the 
Motronic cars is a three wire type, which means it has a heater, so its output 
will become valid more quickly in order to reduce emissions. All this is 
bringing back memories of all the 16V trivia I acquired over the years. 

~Holland
On Feb 27, 2016 20:00, "damac2004" 
&l

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

I agree with you Chad. At this point, I would perform a compression test.
If that looks good, then I'm at a loss as to where to go next. Maybe look
at the injectors. It's probably easier and cheaper to try and find some
used, hopefully known good injectors, even if it's only one. Then you could
swap them one at a time and see if you find a bad one. There are a couple
of companies that do balancing and blueprinting of Motronic injectors. I
had mine done by Marren Motorsports back in the mid '90's, so I don't know
if they're still in business. They could perform just testing to check for
flow and pattern.
Beyond that, I just don't know.

~Holland
On Feb 29, 2016 18:21, "Chad Rebuck"  wrote:

> The key in the cam gear is only there for the alignment until the bolt is
> tightened. It doesn't really hold the cam gear in place once the bolt is
> tightened.  Same for the crank pulley too.  The key can break if the bolt
> gets loose enough for it to turn.
>
> I'm just curious how the engine sounds as you said it ran smoother for a
> short while when you opened up the throttle.
>
> I'm about out of ideas.  If you take it to a shop the first thing they're
> going to do is check the timing again and check the compression I bet.
> On Feb 29, 2016 9:05 PM, "damac2004"  wrote:
>
>> im afraid to run this car for long but what would be better, a video from
>> the engine bay or tailpipe?
>>
>> i didn't change the plug order, etc. when doing all this work, just
>> popped the distributor off and layed it in engine bay with battery out.
>>
>> the cam i took off the car did have the cam gear tooth broken but it
>> didn't move based on how the keyway lined up, is that surprising?  i bought
>> another cam pulley off a vortex member and he sold it to me the exact same
>> way and told me every one he has taken off came the same way?  i thought
>> that was nuts but have seen through forums searching it has happened to
>> others.  i got a new cam pulley while doing all this work and its still
>> fine.  and i have to assume the crank is fine as well since it was good
>> running and all the marks are lining up correctly still.
>>
>> On Monday, February 29, 2016 at 5:56:38 PM UTC-8, chadrebuck wrote:
>>>
>>> Also check that the cam sprocket is located in the right place on the
>>> cam. If the tooth broke off of the cam gear then it could rotate causing
>>> the timing to be incorrect. Did you mention that the cam sprocket had a
>>> broken locating tooth?
>>> On Feb 29, 2016 7:47 PM, "Chad Rebuck"  wrote:
>>>
 Changing the cams out will be a waste of time. What did you do to
 verify the spark plug wire order? Can you take a video of how the car is
 running?
 On Feb 29, 2016 7:39 PM, "damac2004"  wrote:

> i put the techtronics chip back in and put the older throttle body
> back in with no changes in how the car is acting.  i also checked grounds
> and ran some extras to the bundle on head, etc. just in case.
>
> my issues make for a useless car, no way it could be driven.  so my
> problems seem way beyond the little tuning people do to get their cars
> running right.  this car ran and drove when i got it with very old and 
> worn
> injector seals and numerous vacuum lines with holes in it. it ran its best
> when hot and on the throttle never gave out on me or died. although it had
> goofy issues with starting consistently and idling a little
> high/rough/inconsistent at times.
>
> and i see people mention 02 sensors and cts making for a rough running
> car possibly but again this is way worse than that.
>
> i'm stuck so tomorrow i am going to put the old cams, etc. back on and
> cross my fingers.
>
> On Saturday, February 27, 2016 at 8:41:59 PM UTC-8, hollandphillips
> wrote:
>>
>> Since the Mk 2 cars were all pre OBD, they had only one O2 sensor
>> which was mounted before the cat. So the ECU never knew if the cat even
>> existed or was functioning properly. Now that I think about it, if the O2
>> sensor has no output, or was not connected, the ECU will go into "safe
>> mode", which is full rich. Hence your poor fuel mileage. I also recalled
>> that the O2 sensor on the Motronic cars is a three wire type, which means
>> it has a heater, so its output will become valid more quickly in order to
>> reduce emissions. All this is bringing back memories of all the 16V 
>> trivia
>> I acquired over the years. 
>>
>> ~Holland
>> On Feb 27, 2016 20:00, "damac2004"  wrote:
>>
>>> i could test compression but it it did drive fine before i tore it
>>> all apart, after this incident.
>>>
>>> this car had no cat so 02 sensor was laying underneath airbox this
>>> whole time :).
>>>
>>> i thought the car stunk and i got bad mileage but this car was

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-02-29 Thread Chad Rebuck

Also check that the cam sprocket is located in the right place on the cam.
If the tooth broke off of the cam gear then it could rotate causing the
timing to be incorrect. Did you mention that the cam sprocket had a broken
locating tooth?
On Feb 29, 2016 7:47 PM, "Chad Rebuck"  wrote:

> Changing the cams out will be a waste of time. What did you do to verify
> the spark plug wire order? Can you take a video of how the car is running?
> On Feb 29, 2016 7:39 PM, "damac2004"  wrote:
>
>> i put the techtronics chip back in and put the older throttle body back
>> in with no changes in how the car is acting.  i also checked grounds and
>> ran some extras to the bundle on head, etc. just in case.
>>
>> my issues make for a useless car, no way it could be driven.  so my
>> problems seem way beyond the little tuning people do to get their cars
>> running right.  this car ran and drove when i got it with very old and worn
>> injector seals and numerous vacuum lines with holes in it. it ran its best
>> when hot and on the throttle never gave out on me or died. although it had
>> goofy issues with starting consistently and idling a little
>> high/rough/inconsistent at times.
>>
>> and i see people mention 02 sensors and cts making for a rough running
>> car possibly but again this is way worse than that.
>>
>> i'm stuck so tomorrow i am going to put the old cams, etc. back on and
>> cross my fingers.
>>
>> On Saturday, February 27, 2016 at 8:41:59 PM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>>>
>>> Since the Mk 2 cars were all pre OBD, they had only one O2 sensor which
>>> was mounted before the cat. So the ECU never knew if the cat even existed
>>> or was functioning properly. Now that I think about it, if the O2 sensor
>>> has no output, or was not connected, the ECU will go into "safe mode",
>>> which is full rich. Hence your poor fuel mileage. I also recalled that the
>>> O2 sensor on the Motronic cars is a three wire type, which means it has a
>>> heater, so its output will become valid more quickly in order to reduce
>>> emissions. All this is bringing back memories of all the 16V trivia I
>>> acquired over the years. 
>>>
>>> ~Holland
>>> On Feb 27, 2016 20:00, "damac2004"  wrote:
>>>
 i could test compression but it it did drive fine before i tore it all
 apart, after this incident.

 this car had no cat so 02 sensor was laying underneath airbox this
 whole time :).

 i thought the car stunk and i got bad mileage but this car was fun to
 drive. i was beating on itand it pulled when i stomped on it all the time

 --
 You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
 Groups "MK2-16v" group.
 To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send
 an email to mk2-16v+u...@googlegroups.com.
 To post to this group, send email to mk2...@googlegroups.com.
 Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
 To view this discussion on the web visit
 https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/c9b6bb5d-ae7b-4c28-8f59-aa4b98cee00c%40googlegroups.com
 .
 For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

>>> --
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
>> "MK2-16v" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
>> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
>> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
>> To view this discussion on the web visit
>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/9d2a77d7-7104-4d51-81cf-8cf518a97e98%40googlegroups.com
>> 
>> .
>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>>
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CA%2BV5SC-9wxnRY%2BuMPrjnTN92CRtAqshB0B66mxFKc-Py_Dtdcg%40mail.gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-02-29 Thread Chad Rebuck

Changing the cams out will be a waste of time. What did you do to verify
the spark plug wire order? Can you take a video of how the car is running?
On Feb 29, 2016 7:39 PM, "damac2004"  wrote:

> i put the techtronics chip back in and put the older throttle body back in
> with no changes in how the car is acting.  i also checked grounds and ran
> some extras to the bundle on head, etc. just in case.
>
> my issues make for a useless car, no way it could be driven.  so my
> problems seem way beyond the little tuning people do to get their cars
> running right.  this car ran and drove when i got it with very old and worn
> injector seals and numerous vacuum lines with holes in it. it ran its best
> when hot and on the throttle never gave out on me or died. although it had
> goofy issues with starting consistently and idling a little
> high/rough/inconsistent at times.
>
> and i see people mention 02 sensors and cts making for a rough running car
> possibly but again this is way worse than that.
>
> i'm stuck so tomorrow i am going to put the old cams, etc. back on and
> cross my fingers.
>
> On Saturday, February 27, 2016 at 8:41:59 PM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>>
>> Since the Mk 2 cars were all pre OBD, they had only one O2 sensor which
>> was mounted before the cat. So the ECU never knew if the cat even existed
>> or was functioning properly. Now that I think about it, if the O2 sensor
>> has no output, or was not connected, the ECU will go into "safe mode",
>> which is full rich. Hence your poor fuel mileage. I also recalled that the
>> O2 sensor on the Motronic cars is a three wire type, which means it has a
>> heater, so its output will become valid more quickly in order to reduce
>> emissions. All this is bringing back memories of all the 16V trivia I
>> acquired over the years. 
>>
>> ~Holland
>> On Feb 27, 2016 20:00, "damac2004"  wrote:
>>
>>> i could test compression but it it did drive fine before i tore it all
>>> apart, after this incident.
>>>
>>> this car had no cat so 02 sensor was laying underneath airbox this whole
>>> time :).
>>>
>>> i thought the car stunk and i got bad mileage but this car was fun to
>>> drive. i was beating on itand it pulled when i stomped on it all the time
>>>
>>> --
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>>> Groups "MK2-16v" group.
>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send
>>> an email to mk2-16v+u...@googlegroups.com.
>>> To post to this group, send email to mk2...@googlegroups.com.
>>> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
>>> To view this discussion on the web visit
>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/c9b6bb5d-ae7b-4c28-8f59-aa4b98cee00c%40googlegroups.com
>>> .
>>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>>>
>> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/9d2a77d7-7104-4d51-81cf-8cf518a97e98%40googlegroups.com
> 
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CA%2BV5SC-cRYXR1%2B0bT9qW8uuH5zzHzUO3MhgZ9%3DJD2J5q-6d5dw%40mail.gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-02-29 Thread damac2004

i put the techtronics chip back in and put the older throttle body back in 
with no changes in how the car is acting.  i also checked grounds and ran 
some extras to the bundle on head, etc. just in case.

my issues make for a useless car, no way it could be driven.  so my 
problems seem way beyond the little tuning people do to get their cars 
running right.  this car ran and drove when i got it with very old and worn 
injector seals and numerous vacuum lines with holes in it. it ran its best 
when hot and on the throttle never gave out on me or died. although it had 
goofy issues with starting consistently and idling a little 
high/rough/inconsistent at times.

and i see people mention 02 sensors and cts making for a rough running car 
possibly but again this is way worse than that.

i'm stuck so tomorrow i am going to put the old cams, etc. back on and 
cross my fingers.

On Saturday, February 27, 2016 at 8:41:59 PM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>
> Since the Mk 2 cars were all pre OBD, they had only one O2 sensor which 
> was mounted before the cat. So the ECU never knew if the cat even existed 
> or was functioning properly. Now that I think about it, if the O2 sensor 
> has no output, or was not connected, the ECU will go into "safe mode", 
> which is full rich. Hence your poor fuel mileage. I also recalled that the 
> O2 sensor on the Motronic cars is a three wire type, which means it has a 
> heater, so its output will become valid more quickly in order to reduce 
> emissions. All this is bringing back memories of all the 16V trivia I 
> acquired over the years. 
>
> ~Holland
> On Feb 27, 2016 20:00, "damac2004"  
> wrote:
>
>> i could test compression but it it did drive fine before i tore it all 
>> apart, after this incident.
>>
>> this car had no cat so 02 sensor was laying underneath airbox this whole 
>> time :).
>>
>> i thought the car stunk and i got bad mileage but this car was fun to 
>> drive. i was beating on itand it pulled when i stomped on it all the time
>>
>> --
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>> "MK2-16v" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
>> email to mk2-16v+u...@googlegroups.com .
>> To post to this group, send email to mk2...@googlegroups.com 
>> .
>> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/c9b6bb5d-ae7b-4c28-8f59-aa4b98cee00c%40googlegroups.com
>> .
>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>>
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/9d2a77d7-7104-4d51-81cf-8cf518a97e98%40googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

Since the Mk 2 cars were all pre OBD, they had only one O2 sensor which was
mounted before the cat. So the ECU never knew if the cat even existed or
was functioning properly. Now that I think about it, if the O2 sensor has
no output, or was not connected, the ECU will go into "safe mode", which is
full rich. Hence your poor fuel mileage. I also recalled that the O2 sensor
on the Motronic cars is a three wire type, which means it has a heater, so
its output will become valid more quickly in order to reduce emissions. All
this is bringing back memories of all the 16V trivia I acquired over the
years. 

~Holland
On Feb 27, 2016 20:00, "damac2004"  wrote:

> i could test compression but it it did drive fine before i tore it all
> apart, after this incident.
>
> this car had no cat so 02 sensor was laying underneath airbox this whole
> time :).
>
> i thought the car stunk and i got bad mileage but this car was fun to
> drive. i was beating on itand it pulled when i stomped on it all the time
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/c9b6bb5d-ae7b-4c28-8f59-aa4b98cee00c%40googlegroups.com
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKBn2gaFsALPn2Df5EV27d%2BzM4%2BU-rYv-Ysw%3Dop0D94fJpg%40mail.gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

i could test compression but it it did drive fine before i tore it all apart, 
after this incident.

this car had no cat so 02 sensor was laying underneath airbox this whole time 
:). 

i thought the car stunk and i got bad mileage but this car was fun to drive. i 
was beating on itand it pulled when i stomped on it all the time

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/c9b6bb5d-ae7b-4c28-8f59-aa4b98cee00c%40googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

To properly test compression, you have to be able to spin the motor at full
starter motor rpm, meaning fully charged battery, and all spark plugs
removed.
Something occurred to me. Have you replaced the O2 sensor? The Motronic
system is sensitive to proper O2 sensor input to the ECU. I have
experienced problems that were caused by bad O2 sensors, either because of
no output, or dead shorts. The early Bosch sensors had pretty short
lifespans, and could fail either way. The latest versions are much more
reliable, and much less expensive. Just be sure to only use the genuine
Bosch units.

~Holland
On Feb 27, 2016 18:39, "damac2004"  wrote:

> thanks that info helps i will get this car going again.
>
> car was running fine to me.  last drive i came off freeway to oil light
> and i ran the car near idle for almost a minute while getting off road.
> turned out im carrier had no bolts so it tried to pop out and knicked some
> of im shaft gear which was in pan.  i always had to get car smogged but i
> had to get a cat fitted because it didnt have one.
>
> i didnt check compression i guess taking effort to turn over by hand with
> ratchet isnt enough?  car did run fine again after i fixed im shaft and
> before i yanked cams.
>
> i did not try the aftermarket chip i figured it would run like crap, guess
> its worth a try?
>
> is it possible somebody did work inside head for aftermarket cams to cause
> me problems?
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/b99400ec-e5eb-41a6-b6bb-190010f82dda%40googlegroups.com
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKB%3DyNn38TV%3D%2BP6cU0g2H_vXpCWaDYkpxo2NVk97ark04%2BA%40mail.gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

thanks that info helps i will get this car going again.  

car was running fine to me.  last drive i came off freeway to oil light and i 
ran the car near idle for almost a minute while getting off road.  turned out 
im carrier had no bolts so it tried to pop out and knicked some of im shaft 
gear which was in pan.  i always had to get car smogged but i had to get a cat 
fitted because it didnt have one.

i didnt check compression i guess taking effort to turn over by hand with 
ratchet isnt enough?  car did run fine again after i fixed im shaft and before 
i yanked cams.

i did not try the aftermarket chip i figured it would run like crap, guess its 
worth a try?

is it possible somebody did work inside head for aftermarket cams to cause me 
problems?

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/b99400ec-e5eb-41a6-b6bb-190010f82dda%40googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

Sounds like you've done your homework. I apologize if I over explained too
much, but I wasn't sure of your knowledge/ability. I truly feel your
frustration at this point.
As far as the ECU is concerned, if the engine ran ok, and all you did to
the ECU is to swap in a stock chip, then unless the stock chip is bad, or
you did some ESD damage to the ECU or chip when handling them, then there
is nothing adjustable or upgradeable in the Motronic ECU. Have you tried
swapping the aftermarket chip back in?  I assume you have at this point.
The fuel distributor is also non adjustable. If it worked before, then
short of dropping it on the garage floor, it should still work as before.
Please refresh my memory. The car ran ok, and you just had some emissions
test concerns? I recall you discovering some issues with the intermediate
shaft, which is what opened this whole can of worms. One other question -
have you performed a compression test? It doesn't sound like that's part of
the problem, but you have now piqued my curiosity, and would like to help
solve your problem.
I would have gone into much more detail earlier on in this, but I only have
a smart phone at this point, and typing is a PITA.

~Holland
On Feb 27, 2016 17:24, "damac2004"  wrote:

> thanks but this is the reason im all over the place and freaking out.  i
> checked and marked things before i took the car apart.  had this incident
> not happened i would have installed the cat and went to smog.
>
> i have triple checked timing which is pretty simple.  all marks line up
> and dipstick in #1 confirms tdc.
>
> the car simply wouldnt start with rotor lined up in prep for timing light
> so thats why i started moving it and rotated all the way to right it starts
> and barely idles.  i then tried other positions and car wont work it just
> cranks.
>
> so im grasping at sraws now.  no clue if ecu or fuel system on top of
> airbox can be messed with.
>
> i can switch throttle body since im desperate.  after that i dont know
> what to do except put all old stuff on and try again?
>
> i will make a video monday and try and read bently fuel section
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/af7f8f0b-a3e0-49e8-bb0a-fb9e9b506e5c%40googlegroups.com
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKBm1XvxpEfvuZ78EWWZGfsmrNa7Ow-dN-PZMbRfeqPiPsg%40mail.gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-02-27 Thread Chad Rebuck

It's probably going to turn out to be something very basic. Maybe the spark
plug wires are mixed up a little bit? The chip should not matter just to
get the engine up and running the chip only fine tunes the timing and the
fuel for a little bit more power. You could do a compression check to be
certain nothing is going wrong there. I'd focus on that rushing air sound
you said you heard.
On Feb 27, 2016 8:51 PM, "damac2004"  wrote:

> i did use the same oil pump there was no debris?  i cleaned it up and
> tested and when i hit im shaft with impact it sprayed out in the engine bay
> and built pressure so figured i would try if it measured ok?
>
> this is my first time with gasser but timing belt job seems easy to me?  a
> tooth off the belt is going to send marks somewhere off.  i put a ratchet
> on crank bolt and turn over and use a screwdriver in inspection hole to get
> 0 lined up perfect.  cam marks in and out line up.
>
> also before i took things apart adjustable cam sprocket was at stock
> position with keyway and flywheel also lined up so i assumed no head
> shaving from beginning.
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/f27a1fdd-91f1-471a-a471-15cb058a3593%40googlegroups.com
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CA%2BV5SC9aAfcOQkRRamJFWuvtHw-LYF731Yx-NWV3yaT0hXLL2A%40mail.gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

i did use the same oil pump there was no debris?  i cleaned it up and tested 
and when i hit im shaft with impact it sprayed out in the engine bay and built 
pressure so figured i would try if it measured ok?

this is my first time with gasser but timing belt job seems easy to me?  a 
tooth off the belt is going to send marks somewhere off.  i put a ratchet on 
crank bolt and turn over and use a screwdriver in inspection hole to get 0 
lined up perfect.  cam marks in and out line up.

also before i took things apart adjustable cam sprocket was at stock position 
with keyway and flywheel also lined up so i assumed no head shaving from 
beginning.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/f27a1fdd-91f1-471a-a471-15cb058a3593%40googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-02-27 Thread Steven Arguello

Can the timing belt be off a tooth? That would explain why the spark timing is
all the way to the right and why it's running rough.
By the way, how's the oil pressure? Did you use the same oil pump?

On Feb 27, 2016, at 8:24 PM, damac2004 wrote:

thanks but this is the reason im all over the place and freaking out. i
checked and marked things before i took the car apart. had this incident not
happened i would have installed the cat and went to smog.

i have triple checked timing which is pretty simple. all marks line up and
dipstick in #1 confirms tdc.

the car simply wouldnt start with rotor lined up in prep for timing light so
thats why i started moving it and rotated all the way to right it starts and
barely idles. i then tried other positions and car wont work it just cranks.

so im grasping at sraws now. no clue if ecu or fuel system on top of airbox
can be messed with.

i can switch throttle body since im desperate. after that i dont know what to
do except put all old stuff on and try again?

i will make a video monday and try and read bently fuel section

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/af7f8f0b-a3e0-49e8-bb0a-fb9e9b506e5c%40googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/EF0C36EB-F258-4865-A22C-092B8D130A2A%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

thanks but this is the reason im all over the place and freaking out.  i 
checked and marked things before i took the car apart.  had this incident not 
happened i would have installed the cat and went to smog.

i have triple checked timing which is pretty simple.  all marks line up and 
dipstick in #1 confirms tdc.

the car simply wouldnt start with rotor lined up in prep for timing light so 
thats why i started moving it and rotated all the way to right it starts and 
barely idles.  i then tried other positions and car wont work it just cranks.

so im grasping at sraws now.  no clue if ecu or fuel system on top of airbox 
can be messed with.

i can switch throttle body since im desperate.  after that i dont know what to 
do except put all old stuff on and try again?

i will make a video monday and try and read bently fuel section

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/af7f8f0b-a3e0-49e8-bb0a-fb9e9b506e5c%40googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

Okay, on Motronic engines, if the basic timing, as in distributor position,
is correct, the advance/retard function is handled by the ECU. To check the
basic mechanical timing, you have to remove the threaded plug in the top of
the bell housing, which has a plastic cap covering it. It requires a
special tool, which is basically a giant Allen wrench that requires a 3/8"
drive extension and ratchet to remove. There are notches in the flywheel,
and a pointer cast into the bell housing. As I recall, you have to plug a
vacuum line, and then shoot a timing light down the hole. Again, if I
recall correctly, there is one slightly wider notch in the flywheel, which
when aligned with the pointer, indicates TDC, or 180 degrees out without
the engine running. Then there is a slightly narrower notch, which
indicates correct timing when lined up with the pointer, and the engine
idling. If it doesn't line up exactly, you rotate the distributor until it
does.
The whole procedure is explained in the Bentley manual. It's been a long
time since I've done all this, so double check the Bentley to be sure my
memory is correct.
One other thing, you asked about fuel injectors. I researched larger
injectors when I was building my car, and with Motronic injection, there
were no options other than sending the stock ones out for balancing and
blueprinting, so unless you have one or more faulty injectors, that is not
likely part of the problem.

~Holland
On Feb 27, 2016 14:53, "damac2004"  wrote:

> all new seals, etc.  i thought the wierd noise may have been timing?
>
> sprayed all around for leaks and there arent any vac leaks i fixed those
> before.
>
> i was told i got a 1.8 bottom end with 2.0 head.  i believe chasis gti is
> 2.0
>
> i just looked up fuel distributor and ecu part numbers and google says
> 91-93 passat for both?
>
> when i got the car it had vacuum leaks this goes beyond that you can tell
> its not running right.
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/af6a3b5c-5f28-4ba4-a379-4a5a49924475%40googlegroups.com
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKB%3Dj2FX43ntU999Py%3DHmcP1Q8TDE6P0Mk1gHg%2BK4Xr5adw%40mail.gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

all new seals, etc.  i thought the wierd noise may have been timing?

sprayed all around for leaks and there arent any vac leaks i fixed those before.

i was told i got a 1.8 bottom end with 2.0 head.  i believe chasis gti is 2.0

i just looked up fuel distributor and ecu part numbers and google says 91-93 
passat for both?

when i got the car it had vacuum leaks this goes beyond that you can tell its 
not running right.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/af6a3b5c-5f28-4ba4-a379-4a5a49924475%40googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

>>>> and they were still readily available.
>>>>
>>>> ~Holland
>>>> On Feb 13, 2016 16:40, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> half tooth off between the 2 cam gears?  thats kind of where mine is
>>>>> at.  once i got the slack out its real close which has me wondering about
>>>>> the tightness if it can bind up enough to send the marks off one way i
>>>>> assume the slack is also present turning the other way.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On Saturday, February 13, 2016 at 3:00:49 PM UTC-8, stevenarguello
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> For what it's worth, I struggled lining the even the stock cams up,
>>>>>> eventually I sent shots to this list and got the ok, but to me the teeth
>>>>>> never matched up exactly, it was always 1/2 tooth off.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Feb 13, 2016, at 5:40 PM, stan finch <dama...@sbcglobal.net>
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> i was tinkering more today and it seems they had these installed so
>>>>>> the marks would line up on the cams.  if i go a tooth either way the 
>>>>>> marks
>>>>>> touch when not parallel.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> what i noticed though is when trying to line up the cam pulley marks
>>>>>> the exhaust cam slot is level with the head but again the timing between
>>>>>> the cam gears is not perfect.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> i then messed around with turning engine over at crank bolt and
>>>>>> noticed there is a little dead spot in the chain so it has the ability to
>>>>>> load up?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> i took the cams out and can't find any markings on the aftermarket
>>>>>> cams so i guess all bets are off.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> i found a thread that mentioned the #1 cam lobes as lining up toward
>>>>>> center of cam caps with stock cams.  if i get my marks lined up on these
>>>>>> cams the lobes at #1 do not quite match the same angle towards the middle
>>>>>> of the head an using those studs as a marker.  so i guess one sits just a
>>>>>> tad higher at that point than the other.  is this how aftermarket cams 
>>>>>> work
>>>>>> or is it a bad sign that the heights are just a tad different?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> also does the chain sound too loose?  i see no markings on that part
>>>>>> and see the shape of teeth stock vs. aftermarket are different.  should
>>>>>> each have their own part number or can you swap between ok?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> i saw some instructions for aftermarket cam install that mentioned
>>>>>> heat and press/mallet which made me also wonder about chain slack, mine
>>>>>> just fall off.  not sure if thats how the stock setup is?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> i thought about just putting it back together.  and/or trying stock
>>>>>> cams.  the chain now bothers me though since i have never seen another 
>>>>>> one
>>>>>> of these motors up close.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Friday, February 12, 2016 3:52 PM, Holland Phillips <
>>>>>> holland...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> When I installed Schrick 260/276 cams in my car, after my first
>>>>>> attempt, the marks appeared to line up very closely, but not quite 
>>>>>> exact. I
>>>>>> figured they were close enough, but when I started the engine, I could 
>>>>>> tell
>>>>>> immediately that it wasn't running correctly. It didn't rev as freely as 
>>>>>> it
>>>>>> did before I messed with it. So I took it back apart, and removed the cam
>>>>>> retainer caps on one cam so I could move the drive gear one tooth, and
>>>>>> rechecked the alignment marks. They were then lined up exactly. 
>>>>>> Reassembled
>>>>>> everything and started the engine once again. Perfect! The engine revved
>>>>>> freely and more quickly than ever. I already had a lightened flywheel, 
>>>>>> and
>>

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-02-27 Thread Chad Rebuck

d got the ok, but to me the teeth
>>>>> never matched up exactly, it was always 1/2 tooth off.
>>>>>
>>>>> On Feb 13, 2016, at 5:40 PM, stan finch <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> i was tinkering more today and it seems they had these installed so
>>>>> the marks would line up on the cams.  if i go a tooth either way the marks
>>>>> touch when not parallel.
>>>>>
>>>>> what i noticed though is when trying to line up the cam pulley marks
>>>>> the exhaust cam slot is level with the head but again the timing between
>>>>> the cam gears is not perfect.
>>>>>
>>>>> i then messed around with turning engine over at crank bolt and
>>>>> noticed there is a little dead spot in the chain so it has the ability to
>>>>> load up?
>>>>>
>>>>> i took the cams out and can't find any markings on the aftermarket
>>>>> cams so i guess all bets are off.
>>>>>
>>>>> i found a thread that mentioned the #1 cam lobes as lining up toward
>>>>> center of cam caps with stock cams.  if i get my marks lined up on these
>>>>> cams the lobes at #1 do not quite match the same angle towards the middle
>>>>> of the head an using those studs as a marker.  so i guess one sits just a
>>>>> tad higher at that point than the other.  is this how aftermarket cams 
>>>>> work
>>>>> or is it a bad sign that the heights are just a tad different?
>>>>>
>>>>> also does the chain sound too loose?  i see no markings on that part
>>>>> and see the shape of teeth stock vs. aftermarket are different.  should
>>>>> each have their own part number or can you swap between ok?
>>>>>
>>>>> i saw some instructions for aftermarket cam install that mentioned
>>>>> heat and press/mallet which made me also wonder about chain slack, mine
>>>>> just fall off.  not sure if thats how the stock setup is?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> i thought about just putting it back together.  and/or trying stock
>>>>> cams.  the chain now bothers me though since i have never seen another one
>>>>> of these motors up close.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On Friday, February 12, 2016 3:52 PM, Holland Phillips <
>>>>> holland...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> When I installed Schrick 260/276 cams in my car, after my first
>>>>> attempt, the marks appeared to line up very closely, but not quite exact. 
>>>>> I
>>>>> figured they were close enough, but when I started the engine, I could 
>>>>> tell
>>>>> immediately that it wasn't running correctly. It didn't rev as freely as 
>>>>> it
>>>>> did before I messed with it. So I took it back apart, and removed the cam
>>>>> retainer caps on one cam so I could move the drive gear one tooth, and
>>>>> rechecked the alignment marks. They were then lined up exactly. 
>>>>> Reassembled
>>>>> everything and started the engine once again. Perfect! The engine revved
>>>>> freely and more quickly than ever. I already had a lightened flywheel, and
>>>>> a bunch of other mods done to the engine, and with the new cams, the car
>>>>> was noticeably faster than it had ever been. Moral of the story is all
>>>>> those alignment marks MUST
>>>>> be exactly aligned, or all bets are off.
>>>>> ~Holland
>>>>> On Feb 12, 2016 15:26, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> im in california, ugh!  i found out the cams are estas.
>>>>>
>>>>> this may sound like a dumb question but when i went to time the car
>>>>> with stock pulley i found that the front cam is a little off. it looks 
>>>>> like
>>>>> if i made sure the cam marks lined up its one tooth off.  this car was
>>>>> running like this, i don't think any valves were contacting pistons.  im
>>>>> scared to touch it in that sense since it had an adjustable cam.
>>>>>
>>>>> i don't understand how these motors work, should the #1 lobes be
>>>>> pointing towards the middle at the same angle?  its hard to tell exactly
>>>>> but it seems if i turned t

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

t;>>>
>>>> i then messed around with turning engine over at crank bolt and noticed
>>>> there is a little dead spot in the chain so it has the ability to load up?
>>>>
>>>> i took the cams out and can't find any markings on the aftermarket cams
>>>> so i guess all bets are off.
>>>>
>>>> i found a thread that mentioned the #1 cam lobes as lining up toward
>>>> center of cam caps with stock cams.  if i get my marks lined up on these
>>>> cams the lobes at #1 do not quite match the same angle towards the middle
>>>> of the head an using those studs as a marker.  so i guess one sits just a
>>>> tad higher at that point than the other.  is this how aftermarket cams work
>>>> or is it a bad sign that the heights are just a tad different?
>>>>
>>>> also does the chain sound too loose?  i see no markings on that part
>>>> and see the shape of teeth stock vs. aftermarket are different.  should
>>>> each have their own part number or can you swap between ok?
>>>>
>>>> i saw some instructions for aftermarket cam install that mentioned heat
>>>> and press/mallet which made me also wonder about chain slack, mine just
>>>> fall off.  not sure if thats how the stock setup is?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> i thought about just putting it back together.  and/or trying stock
>>>> cams.  the chain now bothers me though since i have never seen another one
>>>> of these motors up close.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Friday, February 12, 2016 3:52 PM, Holland Phillips <
>>>> holland...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> When I installed Schrick 260/276 cams in my car, after my first
>>>> attempt, the marks appeared to line up very closely, but not quite exact. I
>>>> figured they were close enough, but when I started the engine, I could tell
>>>> immediately that it wasn't running correctly. It didn't rev as freely as it
>>>> did before I messed with it. So I took it back apart, and removed the cam
>>>> retainer caps on one cam so I could move the drive gear one tooth, and
>>>> rechecked the alignment marks. They were then lined up exactly. Reassembled
>>>> everything and started the engine once again. Perfect! The engine revved
>>>> freely and more quickly than ever. I already had a lightened flywheel, and
>>>> a bunch of other mods done to the engine, and with the new cams, the car
>>>> was noticeably faster than it had ever been. Moral of the story is all
>>>> those alignment marks MUST
>>>> be exactly aligned, or all bets are off.
>>>> ~Holland
>>>> On Feb 12, 2016 15:26, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> im in california, ugh!  i found out the cams are estas.
>>>>
>>>> this may sound like a dumb question but when i went to time the car
>>>> with stock pulley i found that the front cam is a little off. it looks like
>>>> if i made sure the cam marks lined up its one tooth off.  this car was
>>>> running like this, i don't think any valves were contacting pistons.  im
>>>> scared to touch it in that sense since it had an adjustable cam.
>>>>
>>>> i don't understand how these motors work, should the #1 lobes be
>>>> pointing towards the middle at the same angle?  its hard to tell exactly
>>>> but it seems if i turned the front cam to match the internal marks that the
>>>> cam lobe might match the other cam.  to me right now it looks just a tad
>>>> off.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Friday, February 5, 2016 at 2:12:10 PM UTC-8, Larry Velez wrote:
>>>>
>>>> What country are you in that you are so worried about passing smog?  In
>>>> the USA, most of these cars are now exempt.
>>>>
>>>> -Larry
>>>>
>>>> *From:* mk2...@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2...@googlegroups.com] *On
>>>> Behalf Of *damac2004
>>>> *Sent:* Thursday, February 4, 2016 9:43 PM
>>>> *To:* MK2-16v <mk2...@googlegroups.com>
>>>> *Cc:* mg...@yahoo.com
>>>> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
>>>>
>>>> so are people saying native 2.0 heads can fit onto the 1.8 bottom end?
>>>>
>>>> is there any kind of clues on castings on the outside i can look for to
>>>> see what i have, a

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

at 
>>> and press/mallet which made me also wonder about chain slack, mine just 
>>> fall off.  not sure if thats how the stock setup is?
>>>
>>>
>>> i thought about just putting it back together.  and/or trying stock 
>>> cams.  the chain now bothers me though since i have never seen another one 
>>> of these motors up close.
>>>
>>>
>>> On Friday, February 12, 2016 3:52 PM, Holland Phillips <
>>> holland...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> When I installed Schrick 260/276 cams in my car, after my first attempt, 
>>> the marks appeared to line up very closely, but not quite exact. I figured 
>>> they were close enough, but when I started the engine, I could tell 
>>> immediately that it wasn't running correctly. It didn't rev as freely as it 
>>> did before I messed with it. So I took it back apart, and removed the cam 
>>> retainer caps on one cam so I could move the drive gear one tooth, and 
>>> rechecked the alignment marks. They were then lined up exactly. Reassembled 
>>> everything and started the engine once again. Perfect! The engine revved 
>>> freely and more quickly than ever. I already had a lightened flywheel, and 
>>> a bunch of other mods done to the engine, and with the new cams, the car 
>>> was noticeably faster than it had ever been. Moral of the story is all 
>>> those alignment marks MUST
>>> be exactly aligned, or all bets are off. 
>>> ~Holland
>>> On Feb 12, 2016 15:26, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>>
>>> im in california, ugh!  i found out the cams are estas.
>>>
>>> this may sound like a dumb question but when i went to time the car with 
>>> stock pulley i found that the front cam is a little off. it looks like if i 
>>> made sure the cam marks lined up its one tooth off.  this car was running 
>>> like this, i don't think any valves were contacting pistons.  im scared to 
>>> touch it in that sense since it had an adjustable cam.
>>>
>>> i don't understand how these motors work, should the #1 lobes be 
>>> pointing towards the middle at the same angle?  its hard to tell exactly 
>>> but it seems if i turned the front cam to match the internal marks that the 
>>> cam lobe might match the other cam.  to me right now it looks just a tad 
>>> off.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Friday, February 5, 2016 at 2:12:10 PM UTC-8, Larry Velez wrote:
>>>
>>> What country are you in that you are so worried about passing smog?  In 
>>> the USA, most of these cars are now exempt.
>>>  
>>> -Larry
>>>  
>>> *From:* mk2...@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2...@googlegroups.com] *On 
>>> Behalf Of *damac2004
>>> *Sent:* Thursday, February 4, 2016 9:43 PM
>>> *To:* MK2-16v <mk2...@googlegroups.com>
>>> *Cc:* mg...@yahoo.com
>>> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
>>>  
>>> so are people saying native 2.0 heads can fit onto the 1.8 bottom end?
>>>  
>>> is there any kind of clues on castings on the outside i can look for to 
>>> see what i have, and does anybody know if the stock cams 16v are the same 
>>> part number between 2 and 1.8 liter?
>>>  
>>> i just tore into this car more and of course the techtronics chip with 
>>> adjustable cam gear, and under the valve cover are not vw cams.  i got 
>>> colored stripes on these parts but all i can find is some kind of emblem. 
>>>  i emailed them asking where part numbers are just in case its their parts.
>>>  
>>> i don't know if this has an effect on smog but i just want to put the 
>>> car back stock.
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 9:37:13 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>>>
>>> The external differences between 1.8 and 2.0 16V heads and blocks are 
>>> very minimal. I don't recall the over hang you speak of, but I wouldn't be 
>>> concerned. 
>>> ~Holland
>>> On Feb 2, 2016 09:28, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>>
>>> hmmm, i am still not convinced and found a 1.8 oil pump in it.
>>>  
>>> is there a problem with me going with the 2.0 im shaft/gear and its oil 
>>> pump?  if im reading right it can only help?  then i won't have to worry.
>>>  
>>> the more i read im still not seeing how it can be a 2.0 bottom end with 
>>> the 1.8 intermediate shaft if things don't hit when running the eng

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-02-13 Thread Holland Phillips

Yikes!  No orientation marks on the cams at all? At this point, I would
find a set of new or closely inspected by someone knowledgeable about cams
in general used cams, buy a new chain, and follow to the letter the
installation instructions contained in the Bentley manual. And get a new
timing belt and tensioner, just so you don't have to mess with the whole
cam thing anytime soon. You said you are in California. Where? I am in El
Cajon, and would be willing to help you out if you're close enough.

~Holland
On Feb 13, 2016 14:41, "damac2004" <damac2...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> i was tinkering more today and it seems they had these installed so the
> marks would line up on the cams.  if i go a tooth either way the marks
> touch when not parallel.
>
> what i noticed though is when trying to line up the cam pulley marks the
> exhaust cam slot is level with the head but again the timing between the
> cam gears is not perfect.
>
> i then messed around with turning engine over at crank bolt and noticed
> there is a little dead spot in the chain so it has the ability to load up?
>
> i took the cams out and can't find any markings on the aftermarket cams so
> i guess all bets are off.
>
> i found a thread that mentioned the #1 cam lobes as lining up toward
> center of cam caps with stock cams.  if i get my marks lined up on these
> cams the lobes at #1 do not quite match the same angle towards the middle
> of the head an using those studs as a marker.  so i guess one sits just a
> tad higher at that point than the other.  is this how aftermarket cams work
> or is it a bad sign that the heights are just a tad different?
>
> also does the chain sound too loose?  i see no markings on that part and
> see the shape of teeth stock vs. aftermarket are different.  should each
> have their own part number or can you swap between ok?
>
> i saw some instructions for aftermarket cam install that mentioned heat
> and press/mallet which made me also wonder about chain slack, mine just
> fall off.  not sure if thats how the stock setup is?
>
>
> i thought about just putting it back together.  and/or trying stock cams.
>  the chain now bothers me though since i have never seen another one of
> these motors up close.
>
>
> On Friday, February 12, 2016 at 3:52:22 PM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>>
>> When I installed Schrick 260/276 cams in my car, after my first attempt,
>> the marks appeared to line up very closely, but not quite exact. I figured
>> they were close enough, but when I started the engine, I could tell
>> immediately that it wasn't running correctly. It didn't rev as freely as it
>> did before I messed with it. So I took it back apart, and removed the cam
>> retainer caps on one cam so I could move the drive gear one tooth, and
>> rechecked the alignment marks. They were then lined up exactly. Reassembled
>> everything and started the engine once again. Perfect! The engine revved
>> freely and more quickly than ever. I already had a lightened flywheel, and
>> a bunch of other mods done to the engine, and with the new cams, the car
>> was noticeably faster than it had ever been. Moral of the story is all
>> those alignment marks MUST
>> be exactly aligned, or all bets are off.
>>
>> ~Holland
>> On Feb 12, 2016 15:26, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>
>>> im in california, ugh!  i found out the cams are estas.
>>>
>>> this may sound like a dumb question but when i went to time the car with
>>> stock pulley i found that the front cam is a little off. it looks like if i
>>> made sure the cam marks lined up its one tooth off.  this car was running
>>> like this, i don't think any valves were contacting pistons.  im scared to
>>> touch it in that sense since it had an adjustable cam.
>>>
>>> i don't understand how these motors work, should the #1 lobes be
>>> pointing towards the middle at the same angle?  its hard to tell exactly
>>> but it seems if i turned the front cam to match the internal marks that the
>>> cam lobe might match the other cam.  to me right now it looks just a tad
>>> off.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Friday, February 5, 2016 at 2:12:10 PM UTC-8, Larry Velez wrote:
>>>>
>>>> What country are you in that you are so worried about passing smog?  In
>>>> the USA, most of these cars are now exempt.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> -Larry
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> *From:* mk2...@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2...@googlegroups.com] *On
>>>> Behalf Of *damac2004
>>>> *Sent:* Th

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-02-13 Thread stan finch

i was tinkering more today and it seems they had these installed so the marks 
would line up on the cams.  if i go a tooth either way the marks touch when not 
parallel.
what i noticed though is when trying to line up the cam pulley marks the 
exhaust cam slot is level with the head but again the timing between the cam 
gears is not perfect.
i then messed around with turning engine over at crank bolt and noticed there 
is a little dead spot in the chain so it has the ability to load up?
i took the cams out and can't find any markings on the aftermarket cams so i 
guess all bets are off.
i found a thread that mentioned the #1 cam lobes as lining up toward center of 
cam caps with stock cams.  if i get my marks lined up on these cams the lobes 
at #1 do not quite match the same angle towards the middle of the head an using 
those studs as a marker.  so i guess one sits just a tad higher at that point 
than the other.  is this how aftermarket cams work or is it a bad sign that the 
heights are just a tad different?

also does the chain sound too loose?  i see no markings on that part and see 
the shape of teeth stock vs. aftermarket are different.  should each have their 
own part number or can you swap between ok?
i saw some instructions for aftermarket cam install that mentioned heat and 
press/mallet which made me also wonder about chain slack, mine just fall off.  
not sure if thats how the stock setup is?

i thought about just putting it back together.  and/or trying stock cams.  the 
chain now bothers me though since i have never seen another one of these motors 
up close. 

On Friday, February 12, 2016 3:52 PM, Holland Phillips 
<hollandphill...@gmail.com> wrote:
 

 When I installed Schrick 260/276 cams in my car, after my first attempt, the 
marks appeared to line up very closely, but not quite exact. I figured they 
were close enough, but when I started the engine, I could tell immediately that 
it wasn't running correctly. It didn't rev as freely as it did before I messed 
with it. So I took it back apart, and removed the cam retainer caps on one cam 
so I could move the drive gear one tooth, and rechecked the alignment marks. 
They were then lined up exactly. Reassembled everything and started the engine 
once again. Perfect! The engine revved freely and more quickly than ever. I 
already had a lightened flywheel, and a bunch of other mods done to the engine, 
and with the new cams, the car was noticeably faster than it had ever been. 
Moral of the story is all those alignment marks MUST
be exactly aligned, or all bets are off. ~HollandOn Feb 12, 2016 15:26, 
"damac2004" <damac2...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

im in california, ugh!  i found out the cams are estas.
this may sound like a dumb question but when i went to time the car with stock 
pulley i found that the front cam is a little off. it looks like if i made sure 
the cam marks lined up its one tooth off.  this car was running like this, i 
don't think any valves were contacting pistons.  im scared to touch it in that 
sense since it had an adjustable cam.
i don't understand how these motors work, should the #1 lobes be pointing 
towards the middle at the same angle?  its hard to tell exactly but it seems if 
i turned the front cam to match the internal marks that the cam lobe might 
match the other cam.  to me right now it looks just a tad off.


On Friday, February 5, 2016 at 2:12:10 PM UTC-8, Larry Velez wrote:
What country are you in that you are so worried about passing smog?  In the 
USA, most of these cars are now exempt. -Larry From: mk2...@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:mk2...@googlegroups.com]On Behalf Of damac2004
Sent: Thursday, February 4, 2016 9:43 PM
To: MK2-16v <mk2...@googlegroups.com>
Cc: mg...@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have? so are people 
saying native 2.0 heads can fit onto the 1.8 bottom end? is there any kind of 
clues on castings on the outside i can look for to see what i have, and does 
anybody know if the stock cams 16v are the same part number between 2 and 1.8 
liter? i just tore into this car more and of course the techtronics chip with 
adjustable cam gear, and under the valve cover are not vw cams.  i got colored 
stripes on these parts but all i can find is some kind of emblem.  i emailed 
them asking where part numbers are just in case its their parts. i don't know 
if this has an effect on smog but i just want to put the car back stock.

On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 9:37:13 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
The external differences between 1.8 and 2.0 16V heads and blocks are very 
minimal. I don't recall the over hang you speak of, but I wouldn't be 
concerned.~HollandOn Feb 2, 2016 09:28, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> 
wrote:
hmmm, i am still not convinced and found a 1.8 oil pump in it. is there a 
problem with me going with the 2.0 im shaft/gear and its oil pump?  if im 
reading right it can only help?  then i wo

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-02-13 Thread damac2004

i was tinkering more today and it seems they had these installed so the 
marks would line up on the cams.  if i go a tooth either way the marks 
touch when not parallel.

what i noticed though is when trying to line up the cam pulley marks the 
exhaust cam slot is level with the head but again the timing between the 
cam gears is not perfect.

i then messed around with turning engine over at crank bolt and noticed 
there is a little dead spot in the chain so it has the ability to load up?

i took the cams out and can't find any markings on the aftermarket cams so 
i guess all bets are off.

i found a thread that mentioned the #1 cam lobes as lining up toward center 
of cam caps with stock cams.  if i get my marks lined up on these cams the 
lobes at #1 do not quite match the same angle towards the middle of the 
head an using those studs as a marker.  so i guess one sits just a tad 
higher at that point than the other.  is this how aftermarket cams work or 
is it a bad sign that the heights are just a tad different?

also does the chain sound too loose?  i see no markings on that part and 
see the shape of teeth stock vs. aftermarket are different.  should each 
have their own part number or can you swap between ok?

i saw some instructions for aftermarket cam install that mentioned heat and 
press/mallet which made me also wonder about chain slack, mine just fall 
off.  not sure if thats how the stock setup is?

i thought about just putting it back together.  and/or trying stock cams. 
 the chain now bothers me though since i have never seen another one of 
these motors up close.

On Friday, February 12, 2016 at 3:52:22 PM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>
> When I installed Schrick 260/276 cams in my car, after my first attempt, 
> the marks appeared to line up very closely, but not quite exact. I figured 
> they were close enough, but when I started the engine, I could tell 
> immediately that it wasn't running correctly. It didn't rev as freely as it 
> did before I messed with it. So I took it back apart, and removed the cam 
> retainer caps on one cam so I could move the drive gear one tooth, and 
> rechecked the alignment marks. They were then lined up exactly. Reassembled 
> everything and started the engine once again. Perfect! The engine revved 
> freely and more quickly than ever. I already had a lightened flywheel, and 
> a bunch of other mods done to the engine, and with the new cams, the car 
> was noticeably faster than it had ever been. Moral of the story is all 
> those alignment marks MUST
> be exactly aligned, or all bets are off. 
>
> ~Holland
> On Feb 12, 2016 15:26, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net > 
> wrote:
>
>> im in california, ugh!  i found out the cams are estas.
>>
>> this may sound like a dumb question but when i went to time the car with 
>> stock pulley i found that the front cam is a little off. it looks like if i 
>> made sure the cam marks lined up its one tooth off.  this car was running 
>> like this, i don't think any valves were contacting pistons.  im scared to 
>> touch it in that sense since it had an adjustable cam.
>>
>> i don't understand how these motors work, should the #1 lobes be pointing 
>> towards the middle at the same angle?  its hard to tell exactly but it 
>> seems if i turned the front cam to match the internal marks that the cam 
>> lobe might match the other cam.  to me right now it looks just a tad off.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Friday, February 5, 2016 at 2:12:10 PM UTC-8, Larry Velez wrote:
>>>
>>> What country are you in that you are so worried about passing smog?  In 
>>> the USA, most of these cars are now exempt.
>>>
>>>  
>>>
>>> -Larry
>>>
>>>  
>>>
>>> *From:* mk2...@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2...@googlegroups.com] *On 
>>> Behalf Of *damac2004
>>> *Sent:* Thursday, February 4, 2016 9:43 PM
>>> *To:* MK2-16v <mk2...@googlegroups.com>
>>> *Cc:* mg...@yahoo.com
>>> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
>>>
>>>  
>>>
>>> so are people saying native 2.0 heads can fit onto the 1.8 bottom end?
>>>
>>>  
>>>
>>> is there any kind of clues on castings on the outside i can look for to 
>>> see what i have, and does anybody know if the stock cams 16v are the same 
>>> part number between 2 and 1.8 liter?
>>>
>>>  
>>>
>>> i just tore into this car more and of course the techtronics chip with 
>>> adjustable cam gear, and under the valve cover are not vw cams.  i got 
>>> colored stripes on these parts but all i can find is some kind of emblem. 
>>>  i emailed the

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-02-13 Thread Steven Arguello

For what it's worth, I struggled lining the even the stock cams up, eventually 
I sent shots to this list and got the ok, but to me the teeth never matched up 
exactly, it was always 1/2 tooth off. 

On Feb 13, 2016, at 5:40 PM, stan finch <damac2...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

i was tinkering more today and it seems they had these installed so the marks 
would line up on the cams.  if i go a tooth either way the marks touch when not 
parallel.

what i noticed though is when trying to line up the cam pulley marks the 
exhaust cam slot is level with the head but again the timing between the cam 
gears is not perfect.

i then messed around with turning engine over at crank bolt and noticed there 
is a little dead spot in the chain so it has the ability to load up?

i took the cams out and can't find any markings on the aftermarket cams so i 
guess all bets are off.

i found a thread that mentioned the #1 cam lobes as lining up toward center of 
cam caps with stock cams.  if i get my marks lined up on these cams the lobes 
at #1 do not quite match the same angle towards the middle of the head an using 
those studs as a marker.  so i guess one sits just a tad higher at that point 
than the other.  is this how aftermarket cams work or is it a bad sign that the 
heights are just a tad different?

also does the chain sound too loose?  i see no markings on that part and see 
the shape of teeth stock vs. aftermarket are different.  should each have their 
own part number or can you swap between ok?

i saw some instructions for aftermarket cam install that mentioned heat and 
press/mallet which made me also wonder about chain slack, mine just fall off.  
not sure if thats how the stock setup is?


i thought about just putting it back together.  and/or trying stock cams.  the 
chain now bothers me though since i have never seen another one of these motors 
up close.


On Friday, February 12, 2016 3:52 PM, Holland Phillips 
<hollandphill...@gmail.com> wrote:


When I installed Schrick 260/276 cams in my car, after my first attempt, the 
marks appeared to line up very closely, but not quite exact. I figured they 
were close enough, but when I started the engine, I could tell immediately that 
it wasn't running correctly. It didn't rev as freely as it did before I messed 
with it. So I took it back apart, and removed the cam retainer caps on one cam 
so I could move the drive gear one tooth, and rechecked the alignment marks. 
They were then lined up exactly. Reassembled everything and started the engine 
once again. Perfect! The engine revved freely and more quickly than ever. I 
already had a lightened flywheel, and a bunch of other mods done to the engine, 
and with the new cams, the car was noticeably faster than it had ever been. 
Moral of the story is all those alignment marks MUST
be exactly aligned, or all bets are off.
~Holland
On Feb 12, 2016 15:26, "damac2004" <damac2...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
im in california, ugh!  i found out the cams are estas.

this may sound like a dumb question but when i went to time the car with stock 
pulley i found that the front cam is a little off. it looks like if i made sure 
the cam marks lined up its one tooth off.  this car was running like this, i 
don't think any valves were contacting pistons.  im scared to touch it in that 
sense since it had an adjustable cam.

i don't understand how these motors work, should the #1 lobes be pointing 
towards the middle at the same angle?  its hard to tell exactly but it seems if 
i turned the front cam to match the internal marks that the cam lobe might 
match the other cam.  to me right now it looks just a tad off.



On Friday, February 5, 2016 at 2:12:10 PM UTC-8, Larry Velez wrote:
What country are you in that you are so worried about passing smog?  In the 
USA, most of these cars are now exempt.
 
-Larry
 
From: mk2...@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of 
damac2004
Sent: Thursday, February 4, 2016 9:43 PM
To: MK2-16v <mk2...@googlegroups.com>
Cc: mg...@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
 
so are people saying native 2.0 heads can fit onto the 1.8 bottom end?
 
is there any kind of clues on castings on the outside i can look for to see 
what i have, and does anybody know if the stock cams 16v are the same part 
number between 2 and 1.8 liter?
 
i just tore into this car more and of course the techtronics chip with 
adjustable cam gear, and under the valve cover are not vw cams.  i got colored 
stripes on these parts but all i can find is some kind of emblem.  i emailed 
them asking where part numbers are just in case its their parts.
 
i don't know if this has an effect on smog but i just want to put the car back 
stock.

On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 9:37:13 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
The external differences between 1.8 and 2.0 16V heads and blocks are very 
minimal. I don't recall the over hang you speak of, but I wouldn't be con

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-02-13 Thread Chad Rebuck

 #1 lobes be
>>>> pointing towards the middle at the same angle?  its hard to tell exactly
>>>> but it seems if i turned the front cam to match the internal marks that the
>>>> cam lobe might match the other cam.  to me right now it looks just a tad
>>>> off.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Friday, February 5, 2016 at 2:12:10 PM UTC-8, Larry Velez wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> What country are you in that you are so worried about passing smog?
>>>>> In the USA, most of these cars are now exempt.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> -Larry
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> *From:* mk2...@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2...@googlegroups.com] *On
>>>>> Behalf Of *damac2004
>>>>> *Sent:* Thursday, February 4, 2016 9:43 PM
>>>>> *To:* MK2-16v <mk2...@googlegroups.com>
>>>>> *Cc:* mg...@yahoo.com
>>>>> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> so are people saying native 2.0 heads can fit onto the 1.8 bottom end?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> is there any kind of clues on castings on the outside i can look for
>>>>> to see what i have, and does anybody know if the stock cams 16v are the
>>>>> same part number between 2 and 1.8 liter?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> i just tore into this car more and of course the techtronics chip with
>>>>> adjustable cam gear, and under the valve cover are not vw cams.  i got
>>>>> colored stripes on these parts but all i can find is some kind of emblem.
>>>>>  i emailed them asking where part numbers are just in case its their 
>>>>> parts.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> i don't know if this has an effect on smog but i just want to put the
>>>>> car back stock.
>>>>>
>>>>> On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 9:37:13 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> The external differences between 1.8 and 2.0 16V heads and blocks are
>>>>> very minimal. I don't recall the over hang you speak of, but I wouldn't be
>>>>> concerned.
>>>>>
>>>>> ~Holland
>>>>>
>>>>> On Feb 2, 2016 09:28, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> hmmm, i am still not convinced and found a 1.8 oil pump in it.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> is there a problem with me going with the 2.0 im shaft/gear and its
>>>>> oil pump?  if im reading right it can only help?  then i won't have to
>>>>> worry.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> the more i read im still not seeing how it can be a 2.0 bottom end
>>>>> with the 1.8 intermediate shaft if things don't hit when running the 
>>>>> engine.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> is it normal for the head on these motors to stick way out past the
>>>>> front of the block where they meet?  im used to seeing that area flush on
>>>>> mydiesel where mated.
>>>>>
>>>>> On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 6:55:11 AM UTC-8, mgyip wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Sure sounds like a 2.0l 16v especially because of the 2 knock sensors
>>>>> which were only present on the 91 and later cars - Digifunk for 8v and
>>>>> Moronic for 16v.  I wouldn't necessarily throw TEPO (the evil previous
>>>>> owner) under the bus though - Volkswagen was/is notorious for having a 
>>>>> vast
>>>>> spare parts bin that crossed model types and years, throwing together old
>>>>> and new model parts when their supply was thin.  In 91-92, VW quality was,
>>>>> um, not-so-good and their supply was the same.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On Monday, February 1, 2016 5:51 PM, Holland Phillips <
>>>>> faster...@pacbell.net> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Well, it's definitely a 9A engine. Whatever else is going on with the
>>>>> internals is a mystery. I would just buy

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-02-13 Thread Holland Phillips

gt;>> retainer caps on one cam so I could move the drive gear one tooth, and
>>>> rechecked the alignment marks. They were then lined up exactly. Reassembled
>>>> everything and started the engine once again. Perfect! The engine revved
>>>> freely and more quickly than ever. I already had a lightened flywheel, and
>>>> a bunch of other mods done to the engine, and with the new cams, the car
>>>> was noticeably faster than it had ever been. Moral of the story is all
>>>> those alignment marks MUST
>>>> be exactly aligned, or all bets are off.
>>>>
>>>> ~Holland
>>>> On Feb 12, 2016 15:26, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> im in california, ugh!  i found out the cams are estas.
>>>>>
>>>>> this may sound like a dumb question but when i went to time the car
>>>>> with stock pulley i found that the front cam is a little off. it looks 
>>>>> like
>>>>> if i made sure the cam marks lined up its one tooth off.  this car was
>>>>> running like this, i don't think any valves were contacting pistons.  im
>>>>> scared to touch it in that sense since it had an adjustable cam.
>>>>>
>>>>> i don't understand how these motors work, should the #1 lobes be
>>>>> pointing towards the middle at the same angle?  its hard to tell exactly
>>>>> but it seems if i turned the front cam to match the internal marks that 
>>>>> the
>>>>> cam lobe might match the other cam.  to me right now it looks just a tad
>>>>> off.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On Friday, February 5, 2016 at 2:12:10 PM UTC-8, Larry Velez wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> What country are you in that you are so worried about passing smog?
>>>>>> In the USA, most of these cars are now exempt.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> -Larry
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> *From:* mk2...@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2...@googlegroups.com] *On
>>>>>> Behalf Of *damac2004
>>>>>> *Sent:* Thursday, February 4, 2016 9:43 PM
>>>>>> *To:* MK2-16v <mk2...@googlegroups.com>
>>>>>> *Cc:* mg...@yahoo.com
>>>>>> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> so are people saying native 2.0 heads can fit onto the 1.8 bottom end?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> is there any kind of clues on castings on the outside i can look for
>>>>>> to see what i have, and does anybody know if the stock cams 16v are the
>>>>>> same part number between 2 and 1.8 liter?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> i just tore into this car more and of course the techtronics chip
>>>>>> with adjustable cam gear, and under the valve cover are not vw cams.  i 
>>>>>> got
>>>>>> colored stripes on these parts but all i can find is some kind of emblem.
>>>>>>  i emailed them asking where part numbers are just in case its their 
>>>>>> parts.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> i don't know if this has an effect on smog but i just want to put the
>>>>>> car back stock.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 9:37:13 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> The external differences between 1.8 and 2.0 16V heads and blocks are
>>>>>> very minimal. I don't recall the over hang you speak of, but I wouldn't 
>>>>>> be
>>>>>> concerned.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> ~Holland
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Feb 2, 2016 09:28, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> hmmm, i am still not convinced and found a 1.8 oil pump in it.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> is there a problem with me going with the 2.0 im shaft/gear and its
>>>>>> oil pump?  if im reading right it can only help?  then i won't have to
>>>>>> wo

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-02-13 Thread damac2004

half tooth off between the 2 cam gears?  thats kind of where mine is at. 
 once i got the slack out its real close which has me wondering about the 
tightness if it can bind up enough to send the marks off one way i assume 
the slack is also present turning the other way.



On Saturday, February 13, 2016 at 3:00:49 PM UTC-8, stevenarguello wrote:
>
> For what it's worth, I struggled lining the even the stock cams up, 
> eventually I sent shots to this list and got the ok, but to me the teeth 
> never matched up exactly, it was always 1/2 tooth off. 
>
> On Feb 13, 2016, at 5:40 PM, stan finch <dama...@sbcglobal.net 
> > wrote:
>
> i was tinkering more today and it seems they had these installed so the 
> marks would line up on the cams.  if i go a tooth either way the marks 
> touch when not parallel.
>
> what i noticed though is when trying to line up the cam pulley marks the 
> exhaust cam slot is level with the head but again the timing between the 
> cam gears is not perfect.
>
> i then messed around with turning engine over at crank bolt and noticed 
> there is a little dead spot in the chain so it has the ability to load up?
>
> i took the cams out and can't find any markings on the aftermarket cams so 
> i guess all bets are off.
>
> i found a thread that mentioned the #1 cam lobes as lining up toward 
> center of cam caps with stock cams.  if i get my marks lined up on these 
> cams the lobes at #1 do not quite match the same angle towards the middle 
> of the head an using those studs as a marker.  so i guess one sits just a 
> tad higher at that point than the other.  is this how aftermarket cams work 
> or is it a bad sign that the heights are just a tad different?
>
> also does the chain sound too loose?  i see no markings on that part and 
> see the shape of teeth stock vs. aftermarket are different.  should each 
> have their own part number or can you swap between ok?
>
> i saw some instructions for aftermarket cam install that mentioned heat 
> and press/mallet which made me also wonder about chain slack, mine just 
> fall off.  not sure if thats how the stock setup is?
>
>
> i thought about just putting it back together.  and/or trying stock cams. 
>  the chain now bothers me though since i have never seen another one of 
> these motors up close.
>
>
> On Friday, February 12, 2016 3:52 PM, Holland Phillips <
> holland...@gmail.com > wrote:
>
>
> When I installed Schrick 260/276 cams in my car, after my first attempt, 
> the marks appeared to line up very closely, but not quite exact. I figured 
> they were close enough, but when I started the engine, I could tell 
> immediately that it wasn't running correctly. It didn't rev as freely as it 
> did before I messed with it. So I took it back apart, and removed the cam 
> retainer caps on one cam so I could move the drive gear one tooth, and 
> rechecked the alignment marks. They were then lined up exactly. Reassembled 
> everything and started the engine once again. Perfect! The engine revved 
> freely and more quickly than ever. I already had a lightened flywheel, and 
> a bunch of other mods done to the engine, and with the new cams, the car 
> was noticeably faster than it had ever been. Moral of the story is all 
> those alignment marks MUST
> be exactly aligned, or all bets are off. 
> ~Holland
> On Feb 12, 2016 15:26, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net > 
> wrote:
>
> im in california, ugh!  i found out the cams are estas.
>
> this may sound like a dumb question but when i went to time the car with 
> stock pulley i found that the front cam is a little off. it looks like if i 
> made sure the cam marks lined up its one tooth off.  this car was running 
> like this, i don't think any valves were contacting pistons.  im scared to 
> touch it in that sense since it had an adjustable cam.
>
> i don't understand how these motors work, should the #1 lobes be pointing 
> towards the middle at the same angle?  its hard to tell exactly but it 
> seems if i turned the front cam to match the internal marks that the cam 
> lobe might match the other cam.  to me right now it looks just a tad off.
>
>
>
> On Friday, February 5, 2016 at 2:12:10 PM UTC-8, Larry Velez wrote:
>
> What country are you in that you are so worried about passing smog?  In 
> the USA, most of these cars are now exempt.
>  
> -Larry
>  
> *From:* mk2...@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2...@googlegroups.com] *On 
> Behalf Of *damac2004
> *Sent:* Thursday, February 4, 2016 9:43 PM
> *To:* MK2-16v <mk2...@googlegroups.com>
> *Cc:* mg...@yahoo.com
> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
>  
> so are people saying native 2.0 heads can fit ont

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-02-13 Thread Holland Phillips

on't understand how these motors work, should the #1 lobes be pointing
>> towards the middle at the same angle?  its hard to tell exactly but it
>> seems if i turned the front cam to match the internal marks that the cam
>> lobe might match the other cam.  to me right now it looks just a tad off.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Friday, February 5, 2016 at 2:12:10 PM UTC-8, Larry Velez wrote:
>>
>> What country are you in that you are so worried about passing smog?  In
>> the USA, most of these cars are now exempt.
>>
>> -Larry
>>
>> *From:* mk2...@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2...@googlegroups.com] *On
>> Behalf Of *damac2004
>> *Sent:* Thursday, February 4, 2016 9:43 PM
>> *To:* MK2-16v <mk2...@googlegroups.com>
>> *Cc:* mg...@yahoo.com
>> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
>>
>> so are people saying native 2.0 heads can fit onto the 1.8 bottom end?
>>
>> is there any kind of clues on castings on the outside i can look for to
>> see what i have, and does anybody know if the stock cams 16v are the same
>> part number between 2 and 1.8 liter?
>>
>> i just tore into this car more and of course the techtronics chip with
>> adjustable cam gear, and under the valve cover are not vw cams.  i got
>> colored stripes on these parts but all i can find is some kind of emblem.
>>  i emailed them asking where part numbers are just in case its their parts.
>>
>> i don't know if this has an effect on smog but i just want to put the car
>> back stock.
>>
>> On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 9:37:13 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>>
>> The external differences between 1.8 and 2.0 16V heads and blocks are
>> very minimal. I don't recall the over hang you speak of, but I wouldn't be
>> concerned.
>> ~Holland
>> On Feb 2, 2016 09:28, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>
>> hmmm, i am still not convinced and found a 1.8 oil pump in it.
>>
>> is there a problem with me going with the 2.0 im shaft/gear and its oil
>> pump?  if im reading right it can only help?  then i won't have to worry.
>>
>> the more i read im still not seeing how it can be a 2.0 bottom end with
>> the 1.8 intermediate shaft if things don't hit when running the engine.
>>
>>
>> is it normal for the head on these motors to stick way out past the front
>> of the block where they meet?  im used to seeing that area flush on
>> mydiesel where mated.
>>
>> On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 6:55:11 AM UTC-8, mgyip wrote:
>>
>> Sure sounds like a 2.0l 16v especially because of the 2 knock sensors
>> which were only present on the 91 and later cars - Digifunk for 8v and
>> Moronic for 16v.  I wouldn't necessarily throw TEPO (the evil previous
>> owner) under the bus though - Volkswagen was/is notorious for having a vast
>> spare parts bin that crossed model types and years, throwing together old
>> and new model parts when their supply was thin.  In 91-92, VW quality was,
>> um, not-so-good and their supply was the same.
>>
>> On Monday, February 1, 2016 5:51 PM, Holland Phillips <
>> faster...@pacbell.net> wrote:
>>
>> Well, it's definitely a 9A engine. Whatever else is going on with the
>> internals is a mystery. I would just buy all the replacement parts you need
>> for the 9A and be done with it.
>> On Feb 1, 2016 14:30, damac2004 <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>
>> 1.  yes there is an ecu and it has a techtronics chip in it that says 16v
>> 2.0
>>
>> 2.  i think it does have 2 knock sensors on the front of the block to the
>> left of the block breather fitting?  each one looks the same, one has a
>> bare wire the whole length, and each goes to its own wire harness clip.
>>
>> 3.  this car is disabled on the driveway and im struggling to get it
>> higher for me to get underneath.  i was trying to feel around back there
>> from underneath looking up and all i can find on the drivers side lower
>> block is a big embossed A
>>
>> i'm new to these cars so im scared its some kind of other engine.  this
>> still doesn't explain how this car was using the larger im shaft and
>> smaller oil pump gear?  there isn't a mark anywhere on those parts so
>> obviously they aren't hitting the guts of the engine.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Monday, February 1, 2016 at 12:04:43 PM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>>
>> Does it have a ECU mounted under the plastic tray at the base of the
>> windshield?  The tray covers the windshield wiper motor, and is held on by
>> s

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-02-12 Thread damac2004

also forgot to mention some other people told me about bad batches of cams 
years ago with incorrect cut keyways.  so i'm going to try and take these 
cams out and see if i can find some stampings and hopefully the company 
and/or google research can rule my specific cams out.  can't imagine why 
somebody installed them a tooth out but ya never know.  

On Friday, February 12, 2016 at 3:26:47 PM UTC-8, damac2004 wrote:
>
> im in california, ugh!  i found out the cams are estas.
>
> this may sound like a dumb question but when i went to time the car with 
> stock pulley i found that the front cam is a little off. it looks like if i 
> made sure the cam marks lined up its one tooth off.  this car was running 
> like this, i don't think any valves were contacting pistons.  im scared to 
> touch it in that sense since it had an adjustable cam.
>
> i don't understand how these motors work, should the #1 lobes be pointing 
> towards the middle at the same angle?  its hard to tell exactly but it 
> seems if i turned the front cam to match the internal marks that the cam 
> lobe might match the other cam.  to me right now it looks just a tad off.
>

also  

>
>
> On Friday, February 5, 2016 at 2:12:10 PM UTC-8, Larry Velez wrote:
>>
>> What country are you in that you are so worried about passing smog?  In 
>> the USA, most of these cars are now exempt.
>>
>>  
>>
>> -Larry
>>
>>  
>>
>> *From:* mk2...@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2...@googlegroups.com] *On 
>> Behalf Of *damac2004
>> *Sent:* Thursday, February 4, 2016 9:43 PM
>> *To:* MK2-16v <mk2...@googlegroups.com>
>> *Cc:* mg...@yahoo.com
>> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
>>
>>  
>>
>> so are people saying native 2.0 heads can fit onto the 1.8 bottom end?
>>
>>  
>>
>> is there any kind of clues on castings on the outside i can look for to 
>> see what i have, and does anybody know if the stock cams 16v are the same 
>> part number between 2 and 1.8 liter?
>>
>>  
>>
>> i just tore into this car more and of course the techtronics chip with 
>> adjustable cam gear, and under the valve cover are not vw cams.  i got 
>> colored stripes on these parts but all i can find is some kind of emblem. 
>>  i emailed them asking where part numbers are just in case its their parts.
>>
>>  
>>
>> i don't know if this has an effect on smog but i just want to put the car 
>> back stock.
>>
>> On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 9:37:13 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>>
>> The external differences between 1.8 and 2.0 16V heads and blocks are 
>> very minimal. I don't recall the over hang you speak of, but I wouldn't be 
>> concerned. 
>>
>> ~Holland
>>
>> On Feb 2, 2016 09:28, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>
>> hmmm, i am still not convinced and found a 1.8 oil pump in it.
>>
>>  
>>
>> is there a problem with me going with the 2.0 im shaft/gear and its oil 
>> pump?  if im reading right it can only help?  then i won't have to worry.
>>
>>  
>>
>> the more i read im still not seeing how it can be a 2.0 bottom end with 
>> the 1.8 intermediate shaft if things don't hit when running the engine.
>>
>>  
>>
>>  
>>
>> is it normal for the head on these motors to stick way out past the front 
>> of the block where they meet?  im used to seeing that area flush on 
>> mydiesel where mated.
>>
>> On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 6:55:11 AM UTC-8, mgyip wrote:
>>
>> Sure sounds like a 2.0l 16v especially because of the 2 knock sensors 
>> which were only present on the 91 and later cars - Digifunk for 8v and 
>> Moronic for 16v.  I wouldn't necessarily throw TEPO (the evil previous 
>> owner) under the bus though - Volkswagen was/is notorious for having a vast 
>> spare parts bin that crossed model types and years, throwing together old 
>> and new model parts when their supply was thin.  In 91-92, VW quality was, 
>> um, not-so-good and their supply was the same.  
>>
>>  
>>
>> On Monday, February 1, 2016 5:51 PM, Holland Phillips <
>> faster...@pacbell.net> wrote:
>>
>>  
>>
>> Well, it's definitely a 9A engine. Whatever else is going on with the 
>> internals is a mystery. I would just buy all the replacement parts you need 
>> for the 9A and be done with it.
>>
>> On Feb 1, 2016 14:30, damac2004 <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>
>> 1.  yes there is an ecu and it has a techtronics chip in it that says

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-02-12 Thread Steven Arguello

The stock cams are aligned with marks on the chain sprockets, they face each 
other and flush to the head (at 3 and 9 o'clock) A guy once installed them with 
the marks at 12 o'clock. Luckily the head wasn't mated to the block. 

On Feb 12, 2016, at 6:26 PM, damac2004 <damac2...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

im in california, ugh!  i found out the cams are estas.

this may sound like a dumb question but when i went to time the car with stock 
pulley i found that the front cam is a little off. it looks like if i made sure 
the cam marks lined up its one tooth off.  this car was running like this, i 
don't think any valves were contacting pistons.  im scared to touch it in that 
sense since it had an adjustable cam.

i don't understand how these motors work, should the #1 lobes be pointing 
towards the middle at the same angle?  its hard to tell exactly but it seems if 
i turned the front cam to match the internal marks that the cam lobe might 
match the other cam.  to me right now it looks just a tad off.



> On Friday, February 5, 2016 at 2:12:10 PM UTC-8, Larry Velez wrote:
> What country are you in that you are so worried about passing smog?  In the 
> USA, most of these cars are now exempt.
> 
>  
> 
> -Larry
> 
>  
> 
> From: mk2...@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of 
> damac2004
> Sent: Thursday, February 4, 2016 9:43 PM
> To: MK2-16v <mk2...@googlegroups.com>
> Cc: mg...@yahoo.com
> Subject: Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
> 
>  
> 
> so are people saying native 2.0 heads can fit onto the 1.8 bottom end?
> 
>  
> 
> is there any kind of clues on castings on the outside i can look for to see 
> what i have, and does anybody know if the stock cams 16v are the same part 
> number between 2 and 1.8 liter?
> 
>  
> 
> i just tore into this car more and of course the techtronics chip with 
> adjustable cam gear, and under the valve cover are not vw cams.  i got 
> colored stripes on these parts but all i can find is some kind of emblem.  i 
> emailed them asking where part numbers are just in case its their parts.
> 
>  
> 
> i don't know if this has an effect on smog but i just want to put the car 
> back stock.
> 
> On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 9:37:13 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
> 
> The external differences between 1.8 and 2.0 16V heads and blocks are very 
> minimal. I don't recall the over hang you speak of, but I wouldn't be 
> concerned.
> 
> ~Holland
> 
> On Feb 2, 2016 09:28, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> 
> hmmm, i am still not convinced and found a 1.8 oil pump in it.
> 
>  
> 
> is there a problem with me going with the 2.0 im shaft/gear and its oil pump? 
>  if im reading right it can only help?  then i won't have to worry.
> 
>  
> 
> the more i read im still not seeing how it can be a 2.0 bottom end with the 
> 1.8 intermediate shaft if things don't hit when running the engine.
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> is it normal for the head on these motors to stick way out past the front of 
> the block where they meet?  im used to seeing that area flush on mydiesel 
> where mated.
> 
> On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 6:55:11 AM UTC-8, mgyip wrote:
> 
> Sure sounds like a 2.0l 16v especially because of the 2 knock sensors which 
> were only present on the 91 and later cars - Digifunk for 8v and Moronic for 
> 16v.  I wouldn't necessarily throw TEPO (the evil previous owner) under the 
> bus though - Volkswagen was/is notorious for having a vast spare parts bin 
> that crossed model types and years, throwing together old and new model parts 
> when their supply was thin.  In 91-92, VW quality was, um, not-so-good and 
> their supply was the same.  
> 
>  
> 
> On Monday, February 1, 2016 5:51 PM, Holland Phillips <faster...@pacbell.net> 
> wrote:
> 
>  
> 
> Well, it's definitely a 9A engine. Whatever else is going on with the 
> internals is a mystery. I would just buy all the replacement parts you need 
> for the 9A and be done with it.
> 
> On Feb 1, 2016 14:30, damac2004 <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> 
> 1.  yes there is an ecu and it has a techtronics chip in it that says 16v 2.0
> 
>  
> 
> 2.  i think it does have 2 knock sensors on the front of the block to the 
> left of the block breather fitting?  each one looks the same, one has a bare 
> wire the whole length, and each goes to its own wire harness clip.
> 
>  
> 
> 3.  this car is disabled on the driveway and im struggling to get it higher 
> for me to get underneath.  i was trying to feel around back there from 
> underneath looking up and all i can find on the drivers side lower block is a 
> big embossed A
> 
>  
>

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-02-12 Thread Holland Phillips

When I installed Schrick 260/276 cams in my car, after my first attempt,
the marks appeared to line up very closely, but not quite exact. I figured
they were close enough, but when I started the engine, I could tell
immediately that it wasn't running correctly. It didn't rev as freely as it
did before I messed with it. So I took it back apart, and removed the cam
retainer caps on one cam so I could move the drive gear one tooth, and
rechecked the alignment marks. They were then lined up exactly. Reassembled
everything and started the engine once again. Perfect! The engine revved
freely and more quickly than ever. I already had a lightened flywheel, and
a bunch of other mods done to the engine, and with the new cams, the car
was noticeably faster than it had ever been. Moral of the story is all
those alignment marks MUST
be exactly aligned, or all bets are off.

~Holland
On Feb 12, 2016 15:26, "damac2004" <damac2...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> im in california, ugh!  i found out the cams are estas.
>
> this may sound like a dumb question but when i went to time the car with
> stock pulley i found that the front cam is a little off. it looks like if i
> made sure the cam marks lined up its one tooth off.  this car was running
> like this, i don't think any valves were contacting pistons.  im scared to
> touch it in that sense since it had an adjustable cam.
>
> i don't understand how these motors work, should the #1 lobes be pointing
> towards the middle at the same angle?  its hard to tell exactly but it
> seems if i turned the front cam to match the internal marks that the cam
> lobe might match the other cam.  to me right now it looks just a tad off.
>
>
>
> On Friday, February 5, 2016 at 2:12:10 PM UTC-8, Larry Velez wrote:
>>
>> What country are you in that you are so worried about passing smog?  In
>> the USA, most of these cars are now exempt.
>>
>>
>>
>> -Larry
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* mk2...@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2...@googlegroups.com] *On
>> Behalf Of *damac2004
>> *Sent:* Thursday, February 4, 2016 9:43 PM
>> *To:* MK2-16v <mk2...@googlegroups.com>
>> *Cc:* mg...@yahoo.com
>> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
>>
>>
>>
>> so are people saying native 2.0 heads can fit onto the 1.8 bottom end?
>>
>>
>>
>> is there any kind of clues on castings on the outside i can look for to
>> see what i have, and does anybody know if the stock cams 16v are the same
>> part number between 2 and 1.8 liter?
>>
>>
>>
>> i just tore into this car more and of course the techtronics chip with
>> adjustable cam gear, and under the valve cover are not vw cams.  i got
>> colored stripes on these parts but all i can find is some kind of emblem.
>>  i emailed them asking where part numbers are just in case its their parts.
>>
>>
>>
>> i don't know if this has an effect on smog but i just want to put the car
>> back stock.
>>
>> On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 9:37:13 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>>
>> The external differences between 1.8 and 2.0 16V heads and blocks are
>> very minimal. I don't recall the over hang you speak of, but I wouldn't be
>> concerned.
>>
>> ~Holland
>>
>> On Feb 2, 2016 09:28, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>
>> hmmm, i am still not convinced and found a 1.8 oil pump in it.
>>
>>
>>
>> is there a problem with me going with the 2.0 im shaft/gear and its oil
>> pump?  if im reading right it can only help?  then i won't have to worry.
>>
>>
>>
>> the more i read im still not seeing how it can be a 2.0 bottom end with
>> the 1.8 intermediate shaft if things don't hit when running the engine.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> is it normal for the head on these motors to stick way out past the front
>> of the block where they meet?  im used to seeing that area flush on
>> mydiesel where mated.
>>
>> On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 6:55:11 AM UTC-8, mgyip wrote:
>>
>> Sure sounds like a 2.0l 16v especially because of the 2 knock sensors
>> which were only present on the 91 and later cars - Digifunk for 8v and
>> Moronic for 16v.  I wouldn't necessarily throw TEPO (the evil previous
>> owner) under the bus though - Volkswagen was/is notorious for having a vast
>> spare parts bin that crossed model types and years, throwing together old
>> and new model parts when their supply was thin.  In 91-92, VW quality was,
>> um, not-so-good and their supply was the same.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Monday, February 1, 2016 5:51 PM,

RE: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-02-05 Thread Holland Phillips

Not in California. Everything from '74 back is exempt. And if you do an
engine swap, you have to have all the emissions hardware and pass the tail
pipe test for the year of the engine, not the chassis.

~Holland
On Feb 5, 2016 14:12, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com> wrote:

> What country are you in that you are so worried about passing smog?  In
> the USA, most of these cars are now exempt.
>
>
>
> -Larry
>
>
>
> *From:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] *On
> Behalf Of *damac2004
> *Sent:* Thursday, February 4, 2016 9:43 PM
> *To:* MK2-16v <mk2-16v@googlegroups.com>
> *Cc:* mg...@yahoo.com
> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
>
>
>
> so are people saying native 2.0 heads can fit onto the 1.8 bottom end?
>
>
>
> is there any kind of clues on castings on the outside i can look for to
> see what i have, and does anybody know if the stock cams 16v are the same
> part number between 2 and 1.8 liter?
>
>
>
> i just tore into this car more and of course the techtronics chip with
> adjustable cam gear, and under the valve cover are not vw cams.  i got
> colored stripes on these parts but all i can find is some kind of emblem.
>  i emailed them asking where part numbers are just in case its their parts.
>
>
>
> i don't know if this has an effect on smog but i just want to put the car
> back stock.
>
> On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 9:37:13 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>
> The external differences between 1.8 and 2.0 16V heads and blocks are very
> minimal. I don't recall the over hang you speak of, but I wouldn't be
> concerned.
>
> ~Holland
>
> On Feb 2, 2016 09:28, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> hmmm, i am still not convinced and found a 1.8 oil pump in it.
>
>
>
> is there a problem with me going with the 2.0 im shaft/gear and its oil
> pump?  if im reading right it can only help?  then i won't have to worry.
>
>
>
> the more i read im still not seeing how it can be a 2.0 bottom end with
> the 1.8 intermediate shaft if things don't hit when running the engine.
>
>
>
>
>
> is it normal for the head on these motors to stick way out past the front
> of the block where they meet?  im used to seeing that area flush on
> mydiesel where mated.
>
> On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 6:55:11 AM UTC-8, mgyip wrote:
>
> Sure sounds like a 2.0l 16v especially because of the 2 knock sensors
> which were only present on the 91 and later cars - Digifunk for 8v and
> Moronic for 16v.  I wouldn't necessarily throw TEPO (the evil previous
> owner) under the bus though - Volkswagen was/is notorious for having a vast
> spare parts bin that crossed model types and years, throwing together old
> and new model parts when their supply was thin.  In 91-92, VW quality was,
> um, not-so-good and their supply was the same.
>
>
>
> On Monday, February 1, 2016 5:51 PM, Holland Phillips <
> faster...@pacbell.net> wrote:
>
>
>
> Well, it's definitely a 9A engine. Whatever else is going on with the
> internals is a mystery. I would just buy all the replacement parts you need
> for the 9A and be done with it.
>
> On Feb 1, 2016 14:30, damac2004 <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> 1.  yes there is an ecu and it has a techtronics chip in it that says 16v
> 2.0
>
>
>
> 2.  i think it does have 2 knock sensors on the front of the block to the
> left of the block breather fitting?  each one looks the same, one has a
> bare wire the whole length, and each goes to its own wire harness clip.
>
>
>
> 3.  this car is disabled on the driveway and im struggling to get it
> higher for me to get underneath.  i was trying to feel around back there
> from underneath looking up and all i can find on the drivers side lower
> block is a big embossed A
>
>
>
> i'm new to these cars so im scared its some kind of other engine.  this
> still doesn't explain how this car was using the larger im shaft and
> smaller oil pump gear?  there isn't a mark anywhere on those parts so
> obviously they aren't hitting the guts of the engine.
>
>
>
>
>
> On Monday, February 1, 2016 at 12:04:43 PM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>
> Does it have a ECU mounted under the plastic tray at the base of the
> windshield?  The tray covers the windshield wiper motor, and is held on by
> some clips. If it does, it's probably a 9A. The 1.8 liter 16V doesn't
> utilize an ECU.
>
> ~Holland
>
> On Feb 1, 2016 11:59, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> the chasis is a 1991 gti but i don't trust the previous owners after
> having seen all the hack jobs.  for

RE: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-02-05 Thread Larry Velez

What country are you in that you are so worried about passing smog?  In the 
USA, most of these cars are now exempt.

-Larry

From: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of 
damac2004
Sent: Thursday, February 4, 2016 9:43 PM
To: MK2-16v <mk2-16v@googlegroups.com>
Cc: mg...@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

so are people saying native 2.0 heads can fit onto the 1.8 bottom end?

is there any kind of clues on castings on the outside i can look for to see 
what i have, and does anybody know if the stock cams 16v are the same part 
number between 2 and 1.8 liter?

i just tore into this car more and of course the techtronics chip with 
adjustable cam gear, and under the valve cover are not vw cams.  i got colored 
stripes on these parts but all i can find is some kind of emblem.  i emailed 
them asking where part numbers are just in case its their parts.

i don't know if this has an effect on smog but i just want to put the car back 
stock.

On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 9:37:13 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:

The external differences between 1.8 and 2.0 16V heads and blocks are very 
minimal. I don't recall the over hang you speak of, but I wouldn't be concerned.

~Holland
On Feb 2, 2016 09:28, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
hmmm, i am still not convinced and found a 1.8 oil pump in it.

is there a problem with me going with the 2.0 im shaft/gear and its oil pump?  
if im reading right it can only help?  then i won't have to worry.

the more i read im still not seeing how it can be a 2.0 bottom end with the 1.8 
intermediate shaft if things don't hit when running the engine.

is it normal for the head on these motors to stick way out past the front of 
the block where they meet?  im used to seeing that area flush on mydiesel where 
mated.

On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 6:55:11 AM UTC-8, mgyip wrote:
Sure sounds like a 2.0l 16v especially because of the 2 knock sensors which 
were only present on the 91 and later cars - Digifunk for 8v and Moronic for 
16v.  I wouldn't necessarily throw TEPO (the evil previous owner) under the bus 
though - Volkswagen was/is notorious for having a vast spare parts bin that 
crossed model types and years, throwing together old and new model parts when 
their supply was thin.  In 91-92, VW quality was, um, not-so-good and their 
supply was the same.

On Monday, February 1, 2016 5:51 PM, Holland Phillips 
<faster...@pacbell.net<mailto:faster...@pacbell.net>> wrote:

Well, it's definitely a 9A engine. Whatever else is going on with the internals 
is a mystery. I would just buy all the replacement parts you need for the 9A 
and be done with it.
On Feb 1, 2016 14:30, damac2004 
<dama...@sbcglobal.net<mailto:dama...@sbcglobal.net>> wrote:
1.  yes there is an ecu and it has a techtronics chip in it that says 16v 2.0

2.  i think it does have 2 knock sensors on the front of the block to the left 
of the block breather fitting?  each one looks the same, one has a bare wire 
the whole length, and each goes to its own wire harness clip.

3.  this car is disabled on the driveway and im struggling to get it higher for 
me to get underneath.  i was trying to feel around back there from underneath 
looking up and all i can find on the drivers side lower block is a big embossed 
A

i'm new to these cars so im scared its some kind of other engine.  this still 
doesn't explain how this car was using the larger im shaft and smaller oil pump 
gear?  there isn't a mark anywhere on those parts so obviously they aren't 
hitting the guts of the engine.

On Monday, February 1, 2016 at 12:04:43 PM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
Does it have a ECU mounted under the plastic tray at the base of the 
windshield?  The tray covers the windshield wiper motor, and is held on by some 
clips. If it does, it's probably a 9A. The 1.8 liter 16V doesn't utilize an ECU.
~Holland
On Feb 1, 2016 11:59, "damac2004" 
<dama...@sbcglobal.net<mailto:dama...@sbcglobal.net>> wrote:
the chasis is a 1991 gti but i don't trust the previous owners after having 
seen all the hack jobs.  for all i know another motor is in there :(

im trying to look on front of block and see these markings in the picture i 
attached, down below that is the part number.

On Monday, February 1, 2016 at 8:30:48 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
I don't recall you saying what year your car is. If it's a '91-'92 2.0 liter 
16V, the engine designation is 9A.
~Holland
On Jan 31, 2016 11:51 PM, "damac2004" 
<dama...@sbcglobal.net<mailto:dama...@sbcglobal.net>> wrote:
is there some kind of decoder?  when i search google i come up with few and 
differing answers.  i want to find out what engine i have so i can make sure i 
get the right intermediate shaft and stock parts to get it smogged.

the block says:  051 103 021

the head says:  051103373
--
You received this message becaus

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-02-04 Thread Holland Phillips

I don't recall Schrick cams having those colored stripes around the base
circles. I have concerns about the discoloration on some of the lobes. It's
difficult to tell from the picture if there is actual wear, or if it's
blueing from heat. Either way, I personally would have a professional
mechanic inspect them prior to putting a bunch of money into the motor. As
I mentioned previously, with the issues you've already described, I would
seriously consider tearing the entire engine down for inspection.

~Holland
On Feb 4, 2016 20:21, "damac2004"  wrote:

> do these pictures ring a bell?  i can't really make out what that logo is.
>
>
> On Thursday, February 4, 2016 at 7:27:30 PM UTC-8, Holland Phillips wrote:
>>
>> Yes, yes, no, the cams are more than likely Schrick cams. If so, they are
>> extremely high quality German made performance cams. They are available in
>> various duration/lift for both intake and exhaust. I have Schrick cams in
>> my '92 2.0 16V, running an asymetric setup, with 260 deg intake and 276 deg
>> exhaust. With a Quaife adjustable sprocket, Techtonics high lift valve
>> springs, and Titanium retainers. It would rev to over 8000 RPM. See
>> attached build sheet for information on how I built the entire car.
>>
>> On Feb 4, 2016 18:43, damac2004  wrote:
>> >
>> > so are people saying native 2.0 heads can fit onto the 1.8 bottom end?
>> >
>> > is there any kind of clues on castings on the outside i can look for to
>> see what i have, and does anybody know if the stock cams 16v are the same
>> part number between 2 and 1.8 liter?
>> >
>> > i just tore into this car more and of course the techtronics chip with
>> adjustable cam gear, and under the valve cover are not vw cams.  i got
>> colored stripes on these parts but all i can find is some kind of emblem.
>>  i emailed them asking where part numbers are just in case its their parts.
>> >
>> > i don't know if this has an effect on smog but i just want to put the
>> car back stock.
>> >
>> > On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 9:37:13 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>> >>
>> >> The external differences between 1.8 and 2.0 16V heads and blocks are
>> very minimal. I don't recall the over hang you speak of, but I wouldn't be
>> concerned.
>> >>
>> >> ~Holland
>> >>
>> >> On Feb 2, 2016 09:28, "damac2004"  wrote:
>> >>>
>> >>> hmmm, i am still not convinced and found a 1.8 oil pump in it.
>> >>>
>> >>> is there a problem with me going with the 2.0 im shaft/gear and its
>> oil pump?  if im reading right it can only help?  then i won't have to
>> worry.
>> >>>
>> >>> the more i read im still not seeing how it can be a 2.0 bottom end
>> with the 1.8 intermediate shaft if things don't hit when running the engine.
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>> is it normal for the head on these motors to stick way out past the
>> front of the block where they meet?  im used to seeing that area flush on
>> mydiesel where mated.
>> >>>
>> >>> On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 6:55:11 AM UTC-8, mgyip wrote:
>> 
>>  Sure sounds like a 2.0l 16v especially because of the 2 knock
>> sensors which were only present on the 91 and later cars - Digifunk for 8v
>> and Moronic for 16v.  I wouldn't necessarily throw TEPO (the evil previous
>> owner) under the bus though - Volkswagen was/is notorious for having a vast
>> spare parts bin that crossed model types and years, throwing together old
>> and new model parts when their supply was thin.  In 91-92, VW quality was,
>> um, not-so-good and their supply was the same.
>> 
>> 
>>  On Monday, February 1, 2016 5:51 PM, Holland Phillips <
>> faster...@pacbell.net> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>>  Well, it's definitely a 9A engine. Whatever else is going on with
>> the internals is a mystery. I would just buy all the replacement parts you
>> need for the 9A and be done with it.
>>  On Feb 1, 2016 14:30, damac2004  wrote:
>> >
>> > 1.  yes there is an ecu and it has a techtronics chip in it that
>> says 16v 2.0
>> >
>> > 2.  i think it does have 2 knock sensors on the front of the block
>> to the left of the block breather fitting?  each one looks the same, one
>> has a bare wire the whole length, and each goes to its own wire harness
>> clip.
>> >
>> > 3.  this car is disabled on the driveway and im struggling to get
>> it higher for me to get underneath.  i was trying to feel around back there
>> from underneath looking up and all i can find on the drivers side lower
>> block is a big embossed A
>> >
>> > i'm new to these cars so im scared its some kind of other engine.
>>  this still doesn't explain how this car was using the larger im shaft and
>> smaller oil pump gear?  there isn't a mark anywhere on those parts so
>> obviously they aren't hitting the guts of the engine.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > On Monday, February 1, 2016 at 12:04:43 PM UTC-8, hollandphillips
>> wrote:
>> >>
>>

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-02-02 Thread 'Matthew Yip' via MK2-16v

Agreed - the Mk2 chassis, like the contemporary Honduh chassis, accepts 
virtually ALL and ANY configuration of OE drivetrain in a mix-and-match set-up. 
 Some of the old-school 16v tricks included the 1.8l head on the 2.0l block b/c 
the 1.8l head flows better in stock trim.  To spice up power, run an exhaust 
cam in place of the intake cam on a 16v.  
Depending on where you live and how invasive your smog checks are, it's very 
possible to pass off a Mk2 as block-stock even though it's anything but inside. 
 In other words (and as the OP is finding), it's very difficult to see an 
external difference between a completely stock 2.0l engine and a 1.8l head on a 
2.0l bottom-end.   

On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 2:57 PM, Steven Arguello 
 wrote:
 

 Anything is possible, trans, heads and blocks are all interchangeable. My GTi 
had a weird mix of 2.0 and 1.8 components and it ran beautifully. Never passed 
emissions because of a hollow cat, but I had a buddy who took care of it. He 
sold his business so I registered it as a historic/classic vehicle. No more 
emissions testing. 
On Feb 2, 2016, at 2:26 PM, damac2004  wrote:

somebody on forums just showed me a couple pictures that makes it pretty clear 
now.  since i haven't touched these parts before it didn't dawn on me to look 
at where you slide the oil pump im shaft gear in is a different dimension!
it looks like i have a 1.8 block, there is a little bit of wiggle room to feed 
the gear from outside block.  the 2.0 block has a bigger hole to fit the bigger 
gear!
the im shafts are definately different, the 1.8 is bulkier with gear oil pump 
side shaft past where it rides on bearing and gear itself.  so that part must 
be what people say hits.
so i need to order a 1.8 im shaft.
so maybe its safe to assume with the wiring and ecu that the car had another 
motor originally?  is it possible somebody left all the chasis fueling stuff 
and even put on a different head to a 1.8 bottom end?
oh boy i hope this doesn't stop me from getting smogged.

On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 9:37:13 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
The external differences between 1.8 and 2.0 16V heads and blocks are very 
minimal. I don't recall the over hang you speak of, but I wouldn't be 
concerned. ~HollandOn Feb 2, 2016 09:28, "damac2004"  
wrote:

hmmm, i am still not convinced and found a 1.8 oil pump in it.
is there a problem with me going with the 2.0 im shaft/gear and its oil pump?  
if im reading right it can only help?  then i won't have to worry.
the more i read im still not seeing how it can be a 2.0 bottom end with the 1.8 
intermediate shaft if things don't hit when running the engine.

is it normal for the head on these motors to stick way out past the front of 
the block where they meet?  im used to seeing that area flush on mydiesel where 
mated.

On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 6:55:11 AM UTC-8, mgyip wrote:
Sure sounds like a 2.0l 16v especially because of the 2 knock sensors which 
were only present on the 91 and later cars - Digifunk for 8v and Moronic for 
16v.  I wouldn't necessarily throw TEPO (the evil previous owner) under the bus 
though - Volkswagen was/is notorious for having a vast spare parts bin that 
crossed model types and years, throwing together old and new model parts when 
their supply was thin.  In 91-92, VW quality was, um, not-so-good and their 
supply was the same.   

On Monday, February 1, 2016 5:51 PM, Holland Phillips 
 wrote:
 

 Well, it's definitely a 9A engine. Whatever else is going on with the 
internals is a mystery. I would just buy all the replacement parts you need for 
the 9A and be done with it.On Feb 1, 2016 14:30, damac2004 
 wrote:

1.  yes there is an ecu and it has a techtronics chip in it that says 16v 2.0
2.  i think it does have 2 knock sensors on the front of the block to the left 
of the block breather fitting?  each one looks the same, one has a bare wire 
the whole length, and each goes to its own wire harness clip.
3.  this car is disabled on the driveway and im struggling to get it higher for 
me to get underneath.  i was trying to feel around back there from underneath 
looking up and all i can find on the drivers side lower block is a big embossed 
A
i'm new to these cars so im scared its some kind of other engine.  this still 
doesn't explain how this car was using the larger im shaft and smaller oil pump 
gear?  there isn't a mark anywhere on those parts so obviously they aren't 
hitting the guts of the engine.


On Monday, February 1, 2016 at 12:04:43 PM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
Does it have a ECU mounted under the plastic tray at the base of the 
windshield?  The tray covers the windshield wiper motor, and is held on by some 
clips. If it does, it's probably a 9A. The 1.8 liter 16V doesn't utilize an 
ECU.~HollandOn Feb 1, 2016 11:59, "damac2004"  wrote:

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-02-02 Thread Steven Arguello

Anything is possible, trans, heads and blocks are all interchangeable. My GTi 
had a weird mix of 2.0 and 1.8 components and it ran beautifully. Never passed 
emissions because of a hollow cat, but I had a buddy who took care of it. He 
sold his business so I registered it as a historic/classic vehicle. No more 
emissions testing. 

On Feb 2, 2016, at 2:26 PM, damac2004  wrote:

somebody on forums just showed me a couple pictures that makes it pretty clear 
now.  since i haven't touched these parts before it didn't dawn on me to look 
at where you slide the oil pump im shaft gear in is a different dimension!

it looks like i have a 1.8 block, there is a little bit of wiggle room to feed 
the gear from outside block.  the 2.0 block has a bigger hole to fit the bigger 
gear!

the im shafts are definately different, the 1.8 is bulkier with gear oil pump 
side shaft past where it rides on bearing and gear itself.  so that part must 
be what people say hits.

so i need to order a 1.8 im shaft.

so maybe its safe to assume with the wiring and ecu that the car had another 
motor originally?  is it possible somebody left all the chasis fueling stuff 
and even put on a different head to a 1.8 bottom end?

oh boy i hope this doesn't stop me from getting smogged.

> On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 9:37:13 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
> The external differences between 1.8 and 2.0 16V heads and blocks are very 
> minimal. I don't recall the over hang you speak of, but I wouldn't be 
> concerned.
> 
> ~Holland
> 
>> On Feb 2, 2016 09:28, "damac2004"  wrote:
>> hmmm, i am still not convinced and found a 1.8 oil pump in it.
>> 
>> is there a problem with me going with the 2.0 im shaft/gear and its oil 
>> pump?  if im reading right it can only help?  then i won't have to worry.
>> 
>> the more i read im still not seeing how it can be a 2.0 bottom end with the 
>> 1.8 intermediate shaft if things don't hit when running the engine.
>> 
>> 
>> is it normal for the head on these motors to stick way out past the front of 
>> the block where they meet?  im used to seeing that area flush on mydiesel 
>> where mated.
>> 
>>> On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 6:55:11 AM UTC-8, mgyip wrote:
>>> Sure sounds like a 2.0l 16v especially because of the 2 knock sensors which 
>>> were only present on the 91 and later cars - Digifunk for 8v and Moronic 
>>> for 16v.  I wouldn't necessarily throw TEPO (the evil previous owner) under 
>>> the bus though - Volkswagen was/is notorious for having a vast spare parts 
>>> bin that crossed model types and years, throwing together old and new model 
>>> parts when their supply was thin.  In 91-92, VW quality was, um, 
>>> not-so-good and their supply was the same.  
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On Monday, February 1, 2016 5:51 PM, Holland Phillips 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Well, it's definitely a 9A engine. Whatever else is going on with the 
>>> internals is a mystery. I would just buy all the replacement parts you need 
>>> for the 9A and be done with it.
>>> On Feb 1, 2016 14:30, damac2004  wrote:
>>> 1.  yes there is an ecu and it has a techtronics chip in it that says 16v 
>>> 2.0
>>> 
>>> 2.  i think it does have 2 knock sensors on the front of the block to the 
>>> left of the block breather fitting?  each one looks the same, one has a 
>>> bare wire the whole length, and each goes to its own wire harness clip.
>>> 
>>> 3.  this car is disabled on the driveway and im struggling to get it higher 
>>> for me to get underneath.  i was trying to feel around back there from 
>>> underneath looking up and all i can find on the drivers side lower block is 
>>> a big embossed A
>>> 
>>> i'm new to these cars so im scared its some kind of other engine.  this 
>>> still doesn't explain how this car was using the larger im shaft and 
>>> smaller oil pump gear?  there isn't a mark anywhere on those parts so 
>>> obviously they aren't hitting the guts of the engine.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On Monday, February 1, 2016 at 12:04:43 PM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>>> Does it have a ECU mounted under the plastic tray at the base of the 
>>> windshield?  The tray covers the windshield wiper motor, and is held on by 
>>> some clips. If it does, it's probably a 9A. The 1.8 liter 16V doesn't 
>>> utilize an ECU.
>>> ~Holland
>>> On Feb 1, 2016 11:59, "damac2004"  wrote:
>>> the chasis is a 1991 gti but i don't trust the previous owners after having 
>>> seen all the hack jobs.  for all i know another motor is in there :(
>>> 
>>> 
>>> im trying to look on front of block and see these markings in the picture i 
>>> attached, down below that is the part number.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On Monday, February 1, 2016 at 8:30:48 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>>> I don't recall you saying what year your car is. If it's a '91-'92 2.0 
>>> liter 16V, the engine designation is 9A.
>>> 
>>> ~Holland
>>> On Jan 31, 2016 11:51 PM,

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-02-02 Thread Holland Phillips

Something I want to present - with the issues you've described, I,
personally, would pull the engine and fully disassemble it and have the
block/crank/rods et all inspected and measured by a reputable machine shop.
With the issues known to exist, it would be a shame to spend the time and
money replacing and repairing them only to discover other issues currently
not obvious. Especially since it seems that the po appears to have done
some questionable work to the engine already. With new and viable used
parts becoming more difficult to procure, and expensive, it just makes
since, at least to me. Another option to consider, the 9A engine was used
in not only the '91-'92 16V GTI and Jetta, it was also used much more
commonly in the Passat through '94. So searching "automotive recyclers" for
a good used Passat 9A may be a good option. Also, most Passats came with
automatic transmissions, which isn't a problem, since you already appear to
have a good drive train, other than the engine.
Just my thoughts...
~Holland
On Feb 2, 2016 12:06, "'Matthew Yip' via MK2-16v" 
wrote:

> Agreed - the Mk2 chassis, like the contemporary Honduh chassis, accepts
> virtually ALL and ANY configuration of OE drivetrain in a mix-and-match
> set-up.  Some of the old-school 16v tricks included the 1.8l head on the
> 2.0l block b/c the 1.8l head flows better in stock trim.  To spice up
> power, run an exhaust cam in place of the intake cam on a 16v.
>
> Depending on where you live and how invasive your smog checks are, it's
> very possible to pass off a Mk2 as block-stock even though it's anything
> but inside.  In other words (and as the OP is finding), it's very difficult
> to see an external difference between a completely stock 2.0l engine and a
> 1.8l head on a 2.0l bottom-end.
>
>
> On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 2:57 PM, Steven Arguello <
> stevenargue...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Anything is possible, trans, heads and blocks are all interchangeable. My
> GTi had a weird mix of 2.0 and 1.8 components and it ran beautifully. Never
> passed emissions because of a hollow cat, but I had a buddy who took care
> of it. He sold his business so I registered it as a historic/classic
> vehicle. No more emissions testing.
>
> On Feb 2, 2016, at 2:26 PM, damac2004  wrote:
>
> somebody on forums just showed me a couple pictures that makes it pretty
> clear now.  since i haven't touched these parts before it didn't dawn on me
> to look at where you slide the oil pump im shaft gear in is a different
> dimension!
>
> it looks like i have a 1.8 block, there is a little bit of wiggle room to
> feed the gear from outside block.  the 2.0 block has a bigger hole to fit
> the bigger gear!
>
> the im shafts are definately different, the 1.8 is bulkier with gear oil
> pump side shaft past where it rides on bearing and gear itself.  so that
> part must be what people say hits.
>
> so i need to order a 1.8 im shaft.
>
> so maybe its safe to assume with the wiring and ecu that the car had
> another motor originally?  is it possible somebody left all the chasis
> fueling stuff and even put on a different head to a 1.8 bottom end?
>
> oh boy i hope this doesn't stop me from getting smogged.
>
> On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 9:37:13 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>
> The external differences between 1.8 and 2.0 16V heads and blocks are very
> minimal. I don't recall the over hang you speak of, but I wouldn't be
> concerned.
> ~Holland
> On Feb 2, 2016 09:28, "damac2004"  wrote:
>
> hmmm, i am still not convinced and found a 1.8 oil pump in it.
>
> is there a problem with me going with the 2.0 im shaft/gear and its oil
> pump?  if im reading right it can only help?  then i won't have to worry.
>
> the more i read im still not seeing how it can be a 2.0 bottom end with
> the 1.8 intermediate shaft if things don't hit when running the engine.
>
>
> is it normal for the head on these motors to stick way out past the front
> of the block where they meet?  im used to seeing that area flush on
> mydiesel where mated.
>
> On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 6:55:11 AM UTC-8, mgyip wrote:
>
> Sure sounds like a 2.0l 16v especially because of the 2 knock sensors
> which were only present on the 91 and later cars - Digifunk for 8v and
> Moronic for 16v.  I wouldn't necessarily throw TEPO (the evil previous
> owner) under the bus though - Volkswagen was/is notorious for having a vast
> spare parts bin that crossed model types and years, throwing together old
> and new model parts when their supply was thin.  In 91-92, VW quality was,
> um, not-so-good and their supply was the same.
>
>
> On Monday, February 1, 2016 5:51 PM, Holland Phillips <
> faster...@pacbell.net> wrote:
>
>
> Well, it's definitely a 9A engine. Whatever else is going on with the
> internals is a mystery. I would just buy all the replacement parts you need
> for the 9A and be done with it.
> On Feb 1, 2016 14:30, damac2004

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-02-02 Thread damac2004

somebody on forums just showed me a couple pictures that makes it pretty 
clear now.  since i haven't touched these parts before it didn't dawn on me 
to look at where you slide the oil pump im shaft gear in is a different 
dimension!

it looks like i have a 1.8 block, there is a little bit of wiggle room to 
feed the gear from outside block.  the 2.0 block has a bigger hole to fit 
the bigger gear!

the im shafts are definately different, the 1.8 is bulkier with gear oil 
pump side shaft past where it rides on bearing and gear itself.  so that 
part must be what people say hits.

so i need to order a 1.8 im shaft.

so maybe its safe to assume with the wiring and ecu that the car had 
another motor originally?  is it possible somebody left all the chasis 
fueling stuff and even put on a different head to a 1.8 bottom end?

oh boy i hope this doesn't stop me from getting smogged.

On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 9:37:13 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>
> The external differences between 1.8 and 2.0 16V heads and blocks are very 
> minimal. I don't recall the over hang you speak of, but I wouldn't be 
> concerned. 
>
> ~Holland
> On Feb 2, 2016 09:28, "damac2004"  
> wrote:
>
>> hmmm, i am still not convinced and found a 1.8 oil pump in it.
>>
>> is there a problem with me going with the 2.0 im shaft/gear and its oil 
>> pump?  if im reading right it can only help?  then i won't have to worry.
>>
>> the more i read im still not seeing how it can be a 2.0 bottom end with 
>> the 1.8 intermediate shaft if things don't hit when running the engine.
>>
>>
>> is it normal for the head on these motors to stick way out past the front 
>> of the block where they meet?  im used to seeing that area flush on 
>> mydiesel where mated.
>>
>> On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 6:55:11 AM UTC-8, mgyip wrote:
>>>
>>> Sure sounds like a 2.0l 16v especially because of the 2 knock sensors 
>>> which were only present on the 91 and later cars - Digifunk for 8v and 
>>> Moronic for 16v.  I wouldn't necessarily throw TEPO (the evil previous 
>>> owner) under the bus though - Volkswagen was/is notorious for having a vast 
>>> spare parts bin that crossed model types and years, throwing together old 
>>> and new model parts when their supply was thin.  In 91-92, VW quality was, 
>>> um, not-so-good and their supply was the same.  
>>>
>>>
>>> On Monday, February 1, 2016 5:51 PM, Holland Phillips <
>>> faster...@pacbell.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Well, it's definitely a 9A engine. Whatever else is going on with the 
>>> internals is a mystery. I would just buy all the replacement parts you need 
>>> for the 9A and be done with it.
>>> On Feb 1, 2016 14:30, damac2004  wrote:
>>>
>>> 1.  yes there is an ecu and it has a techtronics chip in it that says 
>>> 16v 2.0
>>>
>>> 2.  i think it does have 2 knock sensors on the front of the block to 
>>> the left of the block breather fitting?  each one looks the same, one has a 
>>> bare wire the whole length, and each goes to its own wire harness clip.
>>>
>>> 3.  this car is disabled on the driveway and im struggling to get it 
>>> higher for me to get underneath.  i was trying to feel around back there 
>>> from underneath looking up and all i can find on the drivers side lower 
>>> block is a big embossed A
>>>
>>> i'm new to these cars so im scared its some kind of other engine.  this 
>>> still doesn't explain how this car was using the larger im shaft and 
>>> smaller oil pump gear?  there isn't a mark anywhere on those parts so 
>>> obviously they aren't hitting the guts of the engine.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Monday, February 1, 2016 at 12:04:43 PM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>>>
>>> Does it have a ECU mounted under the plastic tray at the base of the 
>>> windshield?  The tray covers the windshield wiper motor, and is held on by 
>>> some clips. If it does, it's probably a 9A. The 1.8 liter 16V doesn't 
>>> utilize an ECU.
>>> ~Holland
>>> On Feb 1, 2016 11:59, "damac2004"  wrote:
>>>
>>> the chasis is a 1991 gti but i don't trust the previous owners after 
>>> having seen all the hack jobs.  for all i know another motor is in there :(
>>>
>>>
>>> im trying to look on front of block and see these markings in the 
>>> picture i attached, down below that is the part number.
>>>
>>>
>>> On Monday, February 1, 2016 at 8:30:48 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>>>
>>> I don't recall you saying what year your car is. If it's a '91-'92 2.0 
>>> liter 16V, the engine designation is 9A.
>>>
>>> ~Holland
>>> On Jan 31, 2016 11:51 PM, "damac2004"  wrote:
>>>
>>> is there some kind of decoder?  when i search google i come up with few 
>>> and differing answers.  i want to find out what engine i have so i can make 
>>> sure i get the right intermediate shaft and stock parts to get it smogged.
>>>
>>>
>>> the block says:  051 103 021
>>>
>>> the head says:  051103373
>>> -- 
>>> You received this message because

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-02-02 Thread 'Matthew Yip' via MK2-16v

Sure sounds like a 2.0l 16v especially because of the 2 knock sensors which
were only present on the 91 and later cars - Digifunk for 8v and Moronic for
16v. I wouldn't necessarily throw TEPO (the evil previous owner) under the bus
though - Volkswagen was/is notorious for having a vast spare parts bin that
crossed model types and years, throwing together old and new model parts when
their supply was thin. In 91-92, VW quality was, um, not-so-good and their
supply was the same.

On Monday, February 1, 2016 5:51 PM, Holland Phillips
wrote:

1. yes there is an ecu and it has a techtronics chip in it that says 16v 2.0
2. i think it does have 2 knock sensors on the front of the block to the left
of the block breather fitting? each one looks the same, one has a bare wire
the whole length, and each goes to its own wire harness clip.
3. this car is disabled on the driveway and im struggling to get it higher for
me to get underneath. i was trying to feel around back there from underneath
looking up and all i can find on the drivers side lower block is a big embossed
A
i'm new to these cars so im scared its some kind of other engine. this still
doesn't explain how this car was using the larger im shaft and smaller oil pump
gear? there isn't a mark anywhere on those parts so obviously they aren't
hitting the guts of the engine.

On Monday, February 1, 2016 at 12:04:43 PM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
Does it have a ECU mounted under the plastic tray at the base of the
windshield? The tray covers the windshield wiper motor, and is held on by some
clips. If it does, it's probably a 9A. The 1.8 liter 16V doesn't utilize an
ECU.~HollandOn Feb 1, 2016 11:59, "damac2004" wrote:

the chasis is a 1991 gti but i don't trust the previous owners after having
seen all the hack jobs. for all i know another motor is in there :(

im trying to look on front of block and see these markings in the picture i
attached, down below that is the part number.

On Monday, February 1, 2016 at 8:30:48 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
I don't recall you saying what year your car is. If it's a '91-'92 2.0 liter
16V, the engine designation is 9A.

~HollandOn Jan 31, 2016 11:51 PM, "damac2004" wrote:

is there some kind of decoder? when i search google i come up with few and
differing answers. i want to find out what engine i have so i can make sure i
get the right intermediate shaft and stock parts to get it smogged.

the block says: 051 103 021
the head says: 051103373--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email
to mk2-16v+u...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2...@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/ group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/
msgid/mk2-16v/20c387d7-fd5b- 4ad1-9f35-df0ae5adca6b% 40googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/ optout.

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email
to mk2-16v+u...@ googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2...@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/ group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/
msgid/mk2-16v/1b683a1d-e370- 4d69-87b5-962dddf36fa0% 40googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/ optout.

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/33062c26-dbb3-4369-acf6-2e486b9b935d%40googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/cf11ed67-7722-4582-8a78-fbfa7bbc8856%40email.android.com.
For more options, visit

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-02-02 Thread damac2004

hmmm, i am still not convinced and found a 1.8 oil pump in it.

is there a problem with me going with the 2.0 im shaft/gear and its oil 
pump?  if im reading right it can only help?  then i won't have to worry.

the more i read im still not seeing how it can be a 2.0 bottom end with the 
1.8 intermediate shaft if things don't hit when running the engine.


is it normal for the head on these motors to stick way out past the front 
of the block where they meet?  im used to seeing that area flush on 
mydiesel where mated.

On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 6:55:11 AM UTC-8, mgyip wrote:
>
> Sure sounds like a 2.0l 16v especially because of the 2 knock sensors 
> which were only present on the 91 and later cars - Digifunk for 8v and 
> Moronic for 16v.  I wouldn't necessarily throw TEPO (the evil previous 
> owner) under the bus though - Volkswagen was/is notorious for having a vast 
> spare parts bin that crossed model types and years, throwing together old 
> and new model parts when their supply was thin.  In 91-92, VW quality was, 
> um, not-so-good and their supply was the same.  
>
>
> On Monday, February 1, 2016 5:51 PM, Holland Phillips <
> faster...@pacbell.net > wrote:
>
>
> Well, it's definitely a 9A engine. Whatever else is going on with the 
> internals is a mystery. I would just buy all the replacement parts you need 
> for the 9A and be done with it.
> On Feb 1, 2016 14:30, damac2004  
> wrote:
>
> 1.  yes there is an ecu and it has a techtronics chip in it that says 16v 
> 2.0
>
> 2.  i think it does have 2 knock sensors on the front of the block to the 
> left of the block breather fitting?  each one looks the same, one has a 
> bare wire the whole length, and each goes to its own wire harness clip.
>
> 3.  this car is disabled on the driveway and im struggling to get it 
> higher for me to get underneath.  i was trying to feel around back there 
> from underneath looking up and all i can find on the drivers side lower 
> block is a big embossed A
>
> i'm new to these cars so im scared its some kind of other engine.  this 
> still doesn't explain how this car was using the larger im shaft and 
> smaller oil pump gear?  there isn't a mark anywhere on those parts so 
> obviously they aren't hitting the guts of the engine.
>
>
>
> On Monday, February 1, 2016 at 12:04:43 PM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>
> Does it have a ECU mounted under the plastic tray at the base of the 
> windshield?  The tray covers the windshield wiper motor, and is held on by 
> some clips. If it does, it's probably a 9A. The 1.8 liter 16V doesn't 
> utilize an ECU.
> ~Holland
> On Feb 1, 2016 11:59, "damac2004"  wrote:
>
> the chasis is a 1991 gti but i don't trust the previous owners after 
> having seen all the hack jobs.  for all i know another motor is in there :(
>
>
> im trying to look on front of block and see these markings in the picture 
> i attached, down below that is the part number.
>
>
> On Monday, February 1, 2016 at 8:30:48 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>
> I don't recall you saying what year your car is. If it's a '91-'92 2.0 
> liter 16V, the engine designation is 9A.
>
> ~Holland
> On Jan 31, 2016 11:51 PM, "damac2004"  wrote:
>
> is there some kind of decoder?  when i search google i come up with few 
> and differing answers.  i want to find out what engine i have so i can make 
> sure i get the right intermediate shaft and stock parts to get it smogged.
>
>
> the block says:  051 103 021
>
> the head says:  051103373
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
> email to mk2-16v+u...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2...@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/ group/mk2-16v 
> .
> To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/ 
> msgid/mk2-16v/20c387d7-fd5b- 4ad1-9f35-df0ae5adca6b% 40googlegroups.com 
> 
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/ optout 
> .
>
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
> email to mk2-16v+u...@ googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2...@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/ group/mk2-16v 
> .
> To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/ 
> msgid/mk2-16v/1b683a1d-e370- 4d69-87b5-962dddf36fa0% 40googlegroups.com 
>

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-02-02 Thread Holland Phillips

The external differences between 1.8 and 2.0 16V heads and blocks are very
minimal. I don't recall the over hang you speak of, but I wouldn't be
concerned.

~Holland
On Feb 2, 2016 09:28, "damac2004"  wrote:

> hmmm, i am still not convinced and found a 1.8 oil pump in it.
>
> is there a problem with me going with the 2.0 im shaft/gear and its oil
> pump?  if im reading right it can only help?  then i won't have to worry.
>
> the more i read im still not seeing how it can be a 2.0 bottom end with
> the 1.8 intermediate shaft if things don't hit when running the engine.
>
>
> is it normal for the head on these motors to stick way out past the front
> of the block where they meet?  im used to seeing that area flush on
> mydiesel where mated.
>
> On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 6:55:11 AM UTC-8, mgyip wrote:
>>
>> Sure sounds like a 2.0l 16v especially because of the 2 knock sensors
>> which were only present on the 91 and later cars - Digifunk for 8v and
>> Moronic for 16v.  I wouldn't necessarily throw TEPO (the evil previous
>> owner) under the bus though - Volkswagen was/is notorious for having a vast
>> spare parts bin that crossed model types and years, throwing together old
>> and new model parts when their supply was thin.  In 91-92, VW quality was,
>> um, not-so-good and their supply was the same.
>>
>>
>> On Monday, February 1, 2016 5:51 PM, Holland Phillips <
>> faster...@pacbell.net> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Well, it's definitely a 9A engine. Whatever else is going on with the
>> internals is a mystery. I would just buy all the replacement parts you need
>> for the 9A and be done with it.
>> On Feb 1, 2016 14:30, damac2004  wrote:
>>
>> 1.  yes there is an ecu and it has a techtronics chip in it that says 16v
>> 2.0
>>
>> 2.  i think it does have 2 knock sensors on the front of the block to the
>> left of the block breather fitting?  each one looks the same, one has a
>> bare wire the whole length, and each goes to its own wire harness clip.
>>
>> 3.  this car is disabled on the driveway and im struggling to get it
>> higher for me to get underneath.  i was trying to feel around back there
>> from underneath looking up and all i can find on the drivers side lower
>> block is a big embossed A
>>
>> i'm new to these cars so im scared its some kind of other engine.  this
>> still doesn't explain how this car was using the larger im shaft and
>> smaller oil pump gear?  there isn't a mark anywhere on those parts so
>> obviously they aren't hitting the guts of the engine.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Monday, February 1, 2016 at 12:04:43 PM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>>
>> Does it have a ECU mounted under the plastic tray at the base of the
>> windshield?  The tray covers the windshield wiper motor, and is held on by
>> some clips. If it does, it's probably a 9A. The 1.8 liter 16V doesn't
>> utilize an ECU.
>> ~Holland
>> On Feb 1, 2016 11:59, "damac2004"  wrote:
>>
>> the chasis is a 1991 gti but i don't trust the previous owners after
>> having seen all the hack jobs.  for all i know another motor is in there :(
>>
>>
>> im trying to look on front of block and see these markings in the picture
>> i attached, down below that is the part number.
>>
>>
>> On Monday, February 1, 2016 at 8:30:48 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>>
>> I don't recall you saying what year your car is. If it's a '91-'92 2.0
>> liter 16V, the engine designation is 9A.
>>
>> ~Holland
>> On Jan 31, 2016 11:51 PM, "damac2004"  wrote:
>>
>> is there some kind of decoder?  when i search google i come up with few
>> and differing answers.  i want to find out what engine i have so i can make
>> sure i get the right intermediate shaft and stock parts to get it smogged.
>>
>>
>> the block says:  051 103 021
>>
>> the head says:  051103373
>> --
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
>> "MK2-16v" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
>> email to mk2-16v+u...@googlegroups.com.
>> To post to this group, send email to mk2...@googlegroups.com.
>> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/ group/mk2-16v
>> .
>> To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/
>> msgid/mk2-16v/20c387d7-fd5b- 4ad1-9f35-df0ae5adca6b% 40googlegroups.com
>> 
>> .
>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/ optout
>> .
>>
>> --
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
>> "MK2-16v" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
>> email to mk2-16v+u...@ googlegroups.com.
>> To post to this group, send email to mk2...@googlegroups.com.
>> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/ group/mk2-16v
>>

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-02-02 Thread 'Matthew Yip' via MK2-16v

I'm wracking my pea-brain but don't recall any difference in the intermediate 
shaft between 1.8 and 2.0l 16vs (or 8vs for that matter).  It's been a while 
since I looked closely at the front of a 16v but what you describe as an 
overhang is normal.  From the exterior, the 1.8 and 2.0 blocks are virtually 
identical EXCEPT for the casting on the rear that indicates the factory bore 
diameter.  I have a trashed 1.8l sitting on the floor at home - when I have 
some time (read: this weekend), I'll try to post up some photos.   

On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 12:37 PM, Holland Phillips 
 wrote:
 

 The external differences between 1.8 and 2.0 16V heads and blocks are very 
minimal. I don't recall the over hang you speak of, but I wouldn't be 
concerned. ~HollandOn Feb 2, 2016 09:28, "damac2004"  
wrote:

hmmm, i am still not convinced and found a 1.8 oil pump in it.
is there a problem with me going with the 2.0 im shaft/gear and its oil pump?  
if im reading right it can only help?  then i won't have to worry.
the more i read im still not seeing how it can be a 2.0 bottom end with the 1.8 
intermediate shaft if things don't hit when running the engine.

is it normal for the head on these motors to stick way out past the front of 
the block where they meet?  im used to seeing that area flush on mydiesel where 
mated.

On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 6:55:11 AM UTC-8, mgyip wrote:
Sure sounds like a 2.0l 16v especially because of the 2 knock sensors which 
were only present on the 91 and later cars - Digifunk for 8v and Moronic for 
16v.  I wouldn't necessarily throw TEPO (the evil previous owner) under the bus 
though - Volkswagen was/is notorious for having a vast spare parts bin that 
crossed model types and years, throwing together old and new model parts when 
their supply was thin.  In 91-92, VW quality was, um, not-so-good and their 
supply was the same.   

On Monday, February 1, 2016 5:51 PM, Holland Phillips 
 wrote:
 

 Well, it's definitely a 9A engine. Whatever else is going on with the 
internals is a mystery. I would just buy all the replacement parts you need for 
the 9A and be done with it.On Feb 1, 2016 14:30, damac2004 
 wrote:

1.  yes there is an ecu and it has a techtronics chip in it that says 16v 2.0
2.  i think it does have 2 knock sensors on the front of the block to the left 
of the block breather fitting?  each one looks the same, one has a bare wire 
the whole length, and each goes to its own wire harness clip.
3.  this car is disabled on the driveway and im struggling to get it higher for 
me to get underneath.  i was trying to feel around back there from underneath 
looking up and all i can find on the drivers side lower block is a big embossed 
A
i'm new to these cars so im scared its some kind of other engine.  this still 
doesn't explain how this car was using the larger im shaft and smaller oil pump 
gear?  there isn't a mark anywhere on those parts so obviously they aren't 
hitting the guts of the engine.


On Monday, February 1, 2016 at 12:04:43 PM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
Does it have a ECU mounted under the plastic tray at the base of the 
windshield?  The tray covers the windshield wiper motor, and is held on by some 
clips. If it does, it's probably a 9A. The 1.8 liter 16V doesn't utilize an 
ECU.~HollandOn Feb 1, 2016 11:59, "damac2004"  wrote:

the chasis is a 1991 gti but i don't trust the previous owners after having 
seen all the hack jobs.  for all i know another motor is in there :(

im trying to look on front of block and see these markings in the picture i 
attached, down below that is the part number.

On Monday, February 1, 2016 at 8:30:48 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
I don't recall you saying what year your car is. If it's a '91-'92 2.0 liter 
16V, the engine designation is 9A.

~HollandOn Jan 31, 2016 11:51 PM, "damac2004"  wrote:

is there some kind of decoder?  when i search google i come up with few and 
differing answers.  i want to find out what engine i have so i can make sure i 
get the right intermediate shaft and stock parts to get it smogged.

the block says:  051 103 021
the head says:  051103373-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+u...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2...@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/ group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/ 
msgid/mk2-16v/20c387d7-fd5b- 4ad1-9f35-df0ae5adca6b% 40googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/ optout.


-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it,

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-02-01 Thread Steven Arguello

My 88 GTi came with a 9A 2.0, and the guy who sold it to me never knew it. I 
realized it was a 2.0 when I discovered a second knock sensor above the oil 
cooler, the 1.8 only has one. 

On Feb 1, 2016, at 2:59 PM, damac2004  wrote:

the chasis is a 1991 gti but i don't trust the previous owners after having 
seen all the hack jobs.  for all i know another motor is in there :(


im trying to look on front of block and see these markings in the picture i 
attached, down below that is the part number.


> On Monday, February 1, 2016 at 8:30:48 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
> I don't recall you saying what year your car is. If it's a '91-'92 2.0 liter 
> 16V, the engine designation is 9A.
> 
> 
> ~Holland
> 
>> On Jan 31, 2016 11:51 PM, "damac2004"  wrote:
>> is there some kind of decoder?  when i search google i come up with few and 
>> differing answers.  i want to find out what engine i have so i can make sure 
>> i get the right intermediate shaft and stock parts to get it smogged.
>> 
>> 
>> the block says:  051 103 021
>> 
>> the head says:  051103373
>> -- 
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>> "MK2-16v" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
>> email to mk2-16v+u...@googlegroups.com.
>> To post to this group, send email to mk2...@googlegroups.com.
>> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/20c387d7-fd5b-4ad1-9f35-df0ae5adca6b%40googlegroups.com.
>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/1b683a1d-e370-4d69-87b5-962dddf36fa0%40googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.


-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/22ADE48B-6EF9-46BC-BCD2-B73D3E433E30%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

Good point Steve. There are a bunch of other ways to tell, but they are far
too numerous for me to type on a phone.

~Holland
On Feb 1, 2016 12:58, "Steven Arguello"  wrote:

> My 88 GTi came with a 9A 2.0, and the guy who sold it to me never knew it.
> I realized it was a 2.0 when I discovered a second knock sensor above the
> oil cooler, the 1.8 only has one.
>
> On Feb 1, 2016, at 2:59 PM, damac2004  wrote:
>
> the chasis is a 1991 gti but i don't trust the previous owners after
> having seen all the hack jobs.  for all i know another motor is in there :(
>
>
> im trying to look on front of block and see these markings in the picture
> i attached, down below that is the part number.
>
>
> On Monday, February 1, 2016 at 8:30:48 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>>
>> I don't recall you saying what year your car is. If it's a '91-'92 2.0
>> liter 16V, the engine designation is 9A.
>>
>> ~Holland
>> On Jan 31, 2016 11:51 PM, "damac2004"  wrote:
>>
>>> is there some kind of decoder?  when i search google i come up with few
>>> and differing answers.  i want to find out what engine i have so i can make
>>> sure i get the right intermediate shaft and stock parts to get it smogged.
>>>
>>>
>>> the block says:  051 103 021
>>>
>>> the head says:  051103373
>>>
>>> --
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>>> Groups "MK2-16v" group.
>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send
>>> an email to mk2-16v+u...@googlegroups.com.
>>> To post to this group, send email to mk2...@googlegroups.com.
>>> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
>>> To view this discussion on the web visit
>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/20c387d7-fd5b-4ad1-9f35-df0ae5adca6b%40googlegroups.com
>>> 
>>> .
>>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>>>
>> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/1b683a1d-e370-4d69-87b5-962dddf36fa0%40googlegroups.com
> 
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
> 
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/22ADE48B-6EF9-46BC-BCD2-B73D3E433E30%40gmail.com
> 
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKB%3DoMW3DWYxXk45vX8YeB518XV_wB2Z%2BFkdfi0p1Y3Ds7w%40mail.gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

Does it have a ECU mounted under the plastic tray at the base of the
windshield?  The tray covers the windshield wiper motor, and is held on by
some clips. If it does, it's probably a 9A. The 1.8 liter 16V doesn't
utilize an ECU.

~Holland
On Feb 1, 2016 11:59, "damac2004"  wrote:

> the chasis is a 1991 gti but i don't trust the previous owners after
> having seen all the hack jobs.  for all i know another motor is in there :(
>
>
> im trying to look on front of block and see these markings in the picture
> i attached, down below that is the part number.
>
>
> On Monday, February 1, 2016 at 8:30:48 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>>
>> I don't recall you saying what year your car is. If it's a '91-'92 2.0
>> liter 16V, the engine designation is 9A.
>>
>> ~Holland
>> On Jan 31, 2016 11:51 PM, "damac2004"  wrote:
>>
>>> is there some kind of decoder?  when i search google i come up with few
>>> and differing answers.  i want to find out what engine i have so i can make
>>> sure i get the right intermediate shaft and stock parts to get it smogged.
>>>
>>>
>>> the block says:  051 103 021
>>>
>>> the head says:  051103373
>>>
>>> --
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>>> Groups "MK2-16v" group.
>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send
>>> an email to mk2-16v+u...@googlegroups.com.
>>> To post to this group, send email to mk2...@googlegroups.com.
>>> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
>>> To view this discussion on the web visit
>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/20c387d7-fd5b-4ad1-9f35-df0ae5adca6b%40googlegroups.com
>>> 
>>> .
>>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>>>
>> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/1b683a1d-e370-4d69-87b5-962dddf36fa0%40googlegroups.com
> 
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKB%3DPLhC4ZbF9mFA5PzLuCOd%3Ds_9dB7cUh_pqx8t2YrEong%40mail.gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

Well, it's definitely a 9A engine. Whatever else is going on with the internals is a mystery. I would just buy all the replacement parts you need for the 9A and be done with it.
On Feb 1, 2016 14:30, damac2004 wrote:1. yes there is an ecu and it has a techtronics chip in it that says 16v 2.02. i think it does have 2 knock sensors on the front of the block to the left of the block breather fitting? each one looks the same, one has a bare wire the whole length, and each goes to its own wire harness clip.3. this car is disabled on the driveway and im struggling to get it higher for me to get underneath. i was trying to feel around back there from underneath looking up and all i can find on the drivers side lower block is a big embossed Ai'm new to these cars so im scared its some kind of other engine. this still doesn't explain how this car was using the larger im shaft and smaller oil pump gear? there isn't a mark anywhere on those parts so obviously they aren't hitting the guts of the engine.On Monday, February 1, 2016 at 12:04:43 PM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:Does it have a ECU mounted under the plastic tray at the base of the windshield? The tray covers the windshield wiper motor, and is held on by some clips. If it does, it's probably a 9A. The 1.8 liter 16V doesn't utilize an ECU.
~Holland
On Feb 1, 2016 11:59, "damac2004" wrote:the chasis is a 1991 gti but i don't trust the previous owners after having seen all the hack jobs. for all i know another motor is in there :(im trying to look on front of block and see these markings in the picture i attached, down below that is the part number.On Monday, February 1, 2016 at 8:30:48 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:I don't recall you saying what year your car is. If it's a '91-'92 2.0 liter 16V, the engine designation is 9A.
~Holland
On Jan 31, 2016 11:51 PM, "damac2004" wrote:is there some kind of decoder? when i search google i come up with few and differing answers. i want to find out what engine i have so i can make sure i get the right intermediate shaft and stock parts to get it smogged.the block says: 051 103 021the head says: 051103373

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to mk2-16v+u...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2...@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/20c387d7-fd5b-4ad1-9f35-df0ae5adca6b%40googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to mk2-16v+u...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2...@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/1b683a1d-e370-4d69-87b5-962dddf36fa0%40googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to mk2-16v+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/33062c26-dbb3-4369-acf6-2e486b9b935d%40googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/cf11ed67-7722-4582-8a78-fbfa7bbc8856%40email.android.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

2016-02-01 Thread damac2004

1.  yes there is an ecu and it has a techtronics chip in it that says 16v 
2.0

2.  i think it does have 2 knock sensors on the front of the block to the 
left of the block breather fitting?  each one looks the same, one has a 
bare wire the whole length, and each goes to its own wire harness clip.

3.  this car is disabled on the driveway and im struggling to get it higher 
for me to get underneath.  i was trying to feel around back there from 
underneath looking up and all i can find on the drivers side lower block is 
a big embossed A

i'm new to these cars so im scared its some kind of other engine.  this 
still doesn't explain how this car was using the larger im shaft and 
smaller oil pump gear?  there isn't a mark anywhere on those parts so 
obviously they aren't hitting the guts of the engine.



On Monday, February 1, 2016 at 12:04:43 PM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>
> Does it have a ECU mounted under the plastic tray at the base of the 
> windshield?  The tray covers the windshield wiper motor, and is held on by 
> some clips. If it does, it's probably a 9A. The 1.8 liter 16V doesn't 
> utilize an ECU.
>
> ~Holland
> On Feb 1, 2016 11:59, "damac2004"  
> wrote:
>
>> the chasis is a 1991 gti but i don't trust the previous owners after 
>> having seen all the hack jobs.  for all i know another motor is in there :(
>>
>>
>> im trying to look on front of block and see these markings in the picture 
>> i attached, down below that is the part number.
>>
>>
>> On Monday, February 1, 2016 at 8:30:48 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>>>
>>> I don't recall you saying what year your car is. If it's a '91-'92 2.0 
>>> liter 16V, the engine designation is 9A.
>>>
>>> ~Holland
>>> On Jan 31, 2016 11:51 PM, "damac2004"  wrote:
>>>
 is there some kind of decoder?  when i search google i come up with few 
 and differing answers.  i want to find out what engine i have so i can 
 make 
 sure i get the right intermediate shaft and stock parts to get it smogged.


 the block says:  051 103 021

 the head says:  051103373

 -- 
 You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
 Groups "MK2-16v" group.
 To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send 
 an email to mk2-16v+u...@googlegroups.com.
 To post to this group, send email to mk2...@googlegroups.com.
 Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
 To view this discussion on the web visit 
 https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/20c387d7-fd5b-4ad1-9f35-df0ae5adca6b%40googlegroups.com
  
 
 .
 For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

>>> -- 
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>> "MK2-16v" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
>> email to mk2-16v+u...@googlegroups.com .
>> To post to this group, send email to mk2...@googlegroups.com 
>> .
>> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/1b683a1d-e370-4d69-87b5-962dddf36fa0%40googlegroups.com
>>  
>> 
>> .
>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>>
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/33062c26-dbb3-4369-acf6-2e486b9b935d%40googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?