with water. There was
a lot of it in the top connectors of the brew boiler.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jan 18, 2022, at 5:31 PM, Aaron Skelsey wrote:
>
>
> Hi Andrey,
>
> Perhaps you got the connectors on the pressurestat mixed up, or the high
> temperature switch might
Hi Andrey,
Perhaps you got the connectors on the pressurestat mixed up, or the high
temperature switch might be open circuit (can check it with a multimeter)?
I rebuilt a Brewtus ii a little while ago and took a bunch of photos. You
can probably use the photos as a reference to check everything
Thanks Kevin. I think I may have left the boiler sitting opened a bit too long
so some of the white stuff dried. WLL said it’s acrylic insulation from inside
the heating element that self destructed. I used chopsticks to get some of that
stuff up and flipped machine over to drain. Majority of
On 15/1/22 4:48 am, 'Andrey Sychev' via Brewtus wrote:
I used up all of the citric acid but ultimately acrylic sediment on the top of
my boiler persists. Some of it seems baked on and I don’t know if some
particles collected in a line but with upside down machine and head group bolt
removed
I ended up wrapping mine with a piece of a wool sweater.
On Friday, January 14, 2022 at 10:23:50 AM UTC-8 Andre wrote:
> And another off topic question for the group- has anyone been able to
> replace the boilers fiberglass? insulation. Mine isn’t in the best shape
> especially after flipping
On 13/1/22 12:41 pm, 'Andrey Sychev' via Brewtus wrote:
Got that. Is this Teflon tape or sealant or sealant on top of tape?
Either/Or. Not a combo I think. Although one or two wraps of teflon
tape would probably prevent the sealant locking the threads too
tightly... But one or the other
Got that. Is this Teflon tape or sealant or sealant on top of tape?
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jan 10, 2022, at 9:01 PM, Kevin Maciunas wrote:
>
> On 11/1/22 10:23 am, 'Andrey Sychev' via Brewtus wrote:
>> Got the citric acid, will do 45 min hot water with 1-2 tablespoons per liter
>> before
On 11/1/22 10:23 am, 'Andrey Sychev' via Brewtus wrote:
Got the citric acid, will do 45 min hot water with 1-2 tablespoons per
liter before draining. Do I need plumbing tape to install the new
element? I was looking for food grade but looks like silicone plumbing
tape is the closest option.
1 or 2 tablespoons in a liter of water. I may have used a bit more but
didn't have any issues. I used it in my gs3 last month and it worked great.
Herman
On Thu, Dec 30, 2021 at 5:11 PM 'Andrey Sychev' via Brewtus <
brewtus@googlegroups.com> wrote:
> What concentration am I looking for so that
What concentration am I looking for so that I don’t burn through the boiler top
Breaking bad style? Or citric isn’t all that corrosive?
Sent from my iPhone
> On Dec 29, 2021, at 11:45 AM, Herman wrote:
>
>
> I'd mix the citric acid with the hot water before I poured in but other than
>
I'd mix the citric acid with the hot water before I poured in but other than
that it should work.
Get BlueMail for Android
On Dec 29, 2021, 11:25 AM, at 11:25 AM, 'Andrey Sychev' via Brewtus
wrote:
>Thanks, will something like that work? How much do I put to get the
>right concentration? I
On 29/12/21 9:58 am, Herman wrote:
I just use plain citric acid mixed with water and let it set for about
45 minutes. Then I drain it and rinse it several times like seven or
eight full boilers maybe even more. It seems to do a really good job
with my water quality. I did the machine I have
I just use plain citric acid mixed with water and let it set for about 45
minutes. Then I drain it and rinse it several times like seven or eight full
boilers maybe even more. It seems to do a really good job with my water
quality. I did the machine I have now at 5 years when one of the boiler
Even water could work but draining it through the hole without getting insides
of the machine wet seems challenging.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Dec 28, 2021, at 4:09 PM, Herman wrote:
>
>
> Citric acid does a really good job
>
> Get BlueMail for Android
>> On Dec 28, 2021, at 3:55 PM,
Even water may work but draining it though the opening without getting all the
wiring wet seems like a challenge.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Dec 28, 2021, at 4:09 PM, Herman wrote:
>
>
> Citric acid does a really good job
>
> Get BlueMail for Android
>> On Dec 28, 2021, at 3:55 PM, 'Andrey
On 29/12/21 7:25 am, 'Andrey Sychev' via Brewtus wrote:
Thanks Kevin. I was finally able to rip it out, this it how it looks out
attached. There is quite a bit of white stuff that leaked out and some dirt
bits in the boiler though as I look through the opening- what’s the best idea
to clean
Citric acid does a really good job
Get BlueMail for Android
On Dec 28, 2021, 3:55 PM, at 3:55 PM, 'Andrey Sychev' via Brewtus
wrote:
>Thanks Kevin. I was finally able to rip it out, this it how it looks
>out attached. There is quite a bit of white stuff that leaked out and
>some dirt bits
On 25/12/21 6:23 am, 'Andrey Sychev' via Brewtus wrote:
Folks, I was able to unscrew the old heating element using impact
wrench and some extension with 1 7/16 socket however pulling it out
the boiler is a challenge. I can see a part of the charred coils but
apparently it bursted inside (hence
Did you use sealant that came with replacement element in a small plastic bag?
Sent from my iPhone
> On Dec 24, 2021, at 2:14 AM, Eric Christoffersen wrote:
>
> Well color me surprised, I thought the holes were for design but didn’t look
> usable. Ok, just verified, my socket is too large to
Well color me surprised, I thought the holes were for design but didn’t
look usable. Ok, just verified, my socket is too large to fit the hole…
.I own a corded impact wrench but didn’t when I first replaced my heater
element. It was severely difficult to remove the element from the boiler,
I didn’t realize i would have to hold the boiler while undoing the heating
element through the hole but guess it makes sense. I guess emptying the brew
boiler prior to removal is another step.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Dec 14, 2021, at 12:30 PM, Kevin Maciunas wrote:
>
> On 14/12/2
On 14/12/21 5:38 pm, Eric Christoffersen wrote:
Um... I would be very surprised if you could remove the element
without first removing the boiler from the machine. Its quite a bit of
force, I had boiler wrapped in a towel and clamped in a vise at the
gas station. No way to stabilize the boiler
Um... I would be very surprised if you could remove the element without
first removing the boiler from the machine. Its quite a bit of force, I had
boiler wrapped in a towel and clamped in a vise at the gas station. No way
to stabilize the boiler while its in the machine.
Did I misread? You
On 14/12/21 6:13 am, 'Andrey Sychev' via Brewtus wrote:
Thanks for the details. I did mean 15 Omhs on one and zero on the other. I also
did continuity test and while one was showing a bunch of values the other (one
with zero ohms) was steady at zero. I am planning to use a socket looking
On 13/12/21 8:23 am, 'Andrey Sychev' via Brewtus wrote:
I received a self ranging $30 multimeter from Amazon and that shows
15v resistance and green continuity on one boiler and zero resistance
and zero continuity on the one closer to the head group. I assume this
is the failed brew boiler
timeter from Amazon and that shows 15v
> resistance and green continuity on one boiler and zero resistance and zero
> continuity on the one closer to the head group. I assume this is the failed
> brew boiler - is that right? Hopefully I can order the replacement heating
> element fr
I received a self ranging $30 multimeter from Amazon and that shows 15v
resistance and green continuity on one boiler and zero resistance and zero
continuity on the one closer to the head group. I assume this is the failed
brew boiler - is that right? Hopefully I can order the replacement
and water) are wired so that ONLY the steam
boiler is active initially. So if you remove wires from the brew boiler
and power it up you're only actually testing the steam boiler. I'd
guess your steam boiler has a failed element. The steam works harder
than the brew, so that one will fail
; happily NO MORE EXPOS FOR SALE !!!
>>
>>> On Sat, Oct 23, 2021 at 6:33 PM 'Andrey Sychev' via Brewtus
>>> wrote:
>>> Thanks for the tip. Aside of driving to Rochester, is taking brew boiler
>>> off the machine and shipping it an option on ear
My Brewtus III brew boiler won't heat up. Steam circuit works fine and
heats as normal and cycles, then the brew boiler never turns on.
Narrowed the brew circuit down to the control board. Getting 120V from the
PID into the control board, but only ~6V out of the control box to the top
terminal
Hi all, just bought a Brewtus III (red PID), and the brew boiler won't heat
up on it. Steam boiler heats up and then cycles on and off as it should. I
bought it a few weeks ago, and at first, the brew boiler would work
intermittently, but only if I flushed water through the grouped a few
times
gt;>>>>>>> that next. great thing about the brewtus I purchased was that the
>>>>>>>> previous
>>>>>>>> owner had added quite a few upgrades like the flow control and all
>>>>>>>> exterior
>>>>>>
nd
>>>>>> looking forward to this community for sure!
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 6:20:33 PM UTC-5 herman...@gmail.com
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Lol. Hey Ben. I ca
for decent lol But all in all im loving this brewtus. Thanks again and
>>>>>> looking forward to this community for sure!
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 6:20:33 PM UTC-5 herman...@gmail.com
>>>>>
his community for sure!
>>>>>
>>>>> On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 6:20:33 PM UTC-5 herman...@gmail.com
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Lol. Hey Ben. I can't tell you how many times Ben has helped me when
>>>>&
t;> have
>>>>> moved on to different machines over the years.
>>>>>
>>>>> Herman
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 7:17 PM 'Ben McCafferty' via Brewtus <
>>>>> bre...@googlegroups
ears.
>>>>
>>>> Herman
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 7:17 PM 'Ben McCafferty' via Brewtus <
>>>> bre...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Good point Herman (and hello!).
>>&g
en McCafferty' via Brewtus <
>>> bre...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Good point Herman (and hello!).
>>>> If enough steam is escaping, that could drop the water level in the
>>>> steam boiler and cause the pump to cycle to fill i
er the years.
>
> Herman
>
>
> On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 7:17 PM 'Ben McCafferty' via Brewtus
> > wrote:
> Good point Herman (and hello!).
> If enough steam is escaping, that could drop the water level in the steam
> boiler and cause the pump to cycle to fill
bre...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Good point Herman (and hello!).
>>> If enough steam is escaping, that could drop the water level in the
>>> steam boiler and cause the pump to cycle to fill it back up. I mistyped
>>> earlier I think when I said “brew
23, 2021 at 7:17 PM 'Ben McCafferty' via Brewtus <
> bre...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>
>> Good point Herman (and hello!).
>> If enough steam is escaping, that could drop the water level in the steam
>> boiler and cause the pump to cycle to fill it back up. I mistyped earli
wrote:
> Good point Herman (and hello!).
> If enough steam is escaping, that could drop the water level in the steam
> boiler and cause the pump to cycle to fill it back up. I mistyped earlier I
> think when I said “brew boiler” for what gets refilled. Listen to Herman,
> he’s smarter
e to hear it. I think it's called a vacuum relief valve.
>>
>> Herman
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 4:02 PM Roy Aguilar wrote:
>>
>>> Hello all, so I recently upgraded from a bbe to a expobar brewtus iv non
>>> rotary, I’ve had this thing for
to me, and seems like probably a leak in the
pump itself. The water level in the brew boiler is falling, and when the sensor
detects that, it has the pump cycle on to refill. The vibe pumps do wear, and
so that’s my guess. Also not uncommon to have those wear out as they are a
simple metal piston
;
> On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 4:02 PM Roy Aguilar wrote:
>
>> Hello all, so I recently upgraded from a bbe to a expobar brewtus iv non
>> rotary, I’ve had this thing for about a week and I’m not much of a milk
>> drinker so I usually only have brew boiler on but today
ve had this thing for about a week and I’m not much of a milk
> drinker so I usually only have brew boiler on but today wife wanted a capp
> so I turned on both boilers. This is my first e61 machine and was wondering
> if vibration pump comes on intermittently every few minutes for a couple of
>
Hello all, so I recently upgraded from a bbe to a expobar brewtus iv non
rotary, I’ve had this thing for about a week and I’m not much of a milk
drinker so I usually only have brew boiler on but today wife wanted a capp
so I turned on both boilers. This is my first e61 machine and was wondering
I have a Brewtus II with a PID.
I was fixing an unrelated leak problem near brew boiler.
The steam boiler is heating up. I can draw steam or hot water.
The brew boiler does not heat up.
If I pull the shot lever, water comes out and the brew boiler heats up a
little. Then it cools back down.
Did
dn't see any blackening. Was it
>> where the spade connected to the switch?
>>
>> Other than that pesky 50% repro - couldn't you debug this with a
>> multimeter?
>>
>> On Friday, September 11, 2020 at 12:30:32 PM UTC-7 MDR wrote:
>>
>>> Hi All,
>>&
roblem where my Brewtus II (+PID) would reach temp,
>> allow me to pull a shot, then the brew boiler would shut down. This message
>> is to record the solution for future users
>>
>> Of course, the issue was intermittent, happening about 50% of the time,
>&
this with a multimeter?
On Friday, September 11, 2020 at 12:30:32 PM UTC-7 MDR wrote:
> Hi All,
> I recently had a problem where my Brewtus II (+PID) would reach temp,
> allow me to pull a shot, then the brew boiler would shut down. This message
> is to record the solution for future users
&
Thanks, Ira. I just wanted to follow up to let you know that I believe I
have the issue solved. I actually put a gasket behind the head of the
angled piece, so that it contacts the nut when tightened. I had my wife
hold the pipe into place and I added some teflon tape around the
connection. I
Thanks, Ira. So you are saying that a sealant needs to be used on a fitting
like that (as opposed to Teflon tape)? Does the sealant go beyond the
threads to the area between the nut and the backside of the mating surface
(and therefore facilitate a seal of the two mating pieces)? I ask as there
Title: Re: Leak at Brewtus II Brew Boiler Return Line Fitting
Hello jjk3,
Sunday, September 13, 2020, 2:54:28 PM, you wrote:
I just put back my Brewtus II that I am rehabbing/rebuilding after it sat for ~2 years (long story).
Have any of you experienced this issue before? Is it possible
Not sure why, but those last three pics are all rotated by 45 degrees. I am
not sure why. Sorry.
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On Sunday, September 13, 2020 at 5:57:14 PM UTC-4, jjk3 wrote:
>
> I just put back my Brewtus II that I am rehabbing/rebuilding after it sat
> for ~2 years (long story).
>
> Anyhow, after turning it on for the first time it began to leak at
> the brew boiler r
Here are the pics showing the exact connection I am referring to.
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Am I a complete idiot that I cannot seem to see where I can insert photos?
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I just put back my Brewtus II that I am rehabbing/rebuilding after it sat
for ~2 years (long story).
Anyhow, after turning it on for the first time it began to leak at the brew
boiler return line fitting. This is the fitting on the bottom of the brew
boiler that runs between it and the group
I just put back my Brewtus II that I am rehabbing/rebuilding after it sat
for ~2 years (long story).
Anyhow, after turning it on for the first time it began to leak at the brew
boiler return line fitting. This is the fitting on the bottom of the brew
boiler that runs between it and the group
Hi All,
I recently had a problem where my Brewtus II (+PID) would reach temp, allow
me to pull a shot, then the brew boiler would shut down. This message is to
record the solution for future users
Of course, the issue was intermittent, happening about 50% of the time, so
difficult to debug
it to see
what it does when cold?
Jonathan
From: brewtus@googlegroups.com On Behalf Of wsmckenz
Sent: Saturday, November 2, 2019 11:33 AM
To: Brewtus
Subject: Brew Boiler Pressure Meter
Meter sits at 6 or 7 bar all the time, even unplugged and stone cold. Still
goes to 9 or 10 while
Meter sits at 6 or 7 bar all the time, even unplugged and stone cold. Still
goes to 9 or 10 while pulling a shot, and I can dial that value up and down
with the pressure setting off the pump. But what is wrong? Is the zero
setting just bad? I see a couple of brass triangle shaped adjustment
I had the same issue with the same result.
JohnB
On Thu, Jan 10, 2019 at 5:30 AM David Maltais
wrote:
> So, new PID came from WLL. Removed the faulty one to confirm what I was
> thinking. Steam wand leak created a short on the board.
>
>
>
Cool! Congrats on finding a root cause.
On Wednesday, January 9, 2019 at 7:30:14 PM UTC-8, David Maltais wrote:
>
> So, new PID came from WLL. Removed the faulty one to confirm what I was
> thinking. Steam wand leak created a short on the board.
>
>
>
So, new PID came from WLL. Removed the faulty one to confirm what I was
thinking. Steam wand leak created a short on the board.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xL80Yt5T-socqQXwWvsYWHc6VBPd4vgf/view?usp=drivesdk
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1O5WrrY1vi0jc6CRJvhrxD-dQKl8Jt4Z8/view?usp=drivesdk
I will try for.sure!
Thx
Le lun. 31 déc. 2018 20 h 17, Eric Christoffersen a
écrit :
> I had a problem with pid not heating brew element, problem went away when
> I got rid of my cheap old wall timer switch. I can't say why this happened
> but my machine's pid has now been working great for
I had a problem with pid not heating brew element, problem went away when I
got rid of my cheap old wall timer switch. I can't say why this happened
but my machine's pid has now been working great for more than a year once I
got a higher quality timer switch.
So... try a different house
green light on the SSR to go on and the brew boiler starts to
> heat then the PID has gone bad.
>
> On Sun, Dec 30, 2018 at 12:07 PM David Maltais > wrote:
>
>> Hello,
>>
>> I read a lot of these problem on the group and tried a lot of things to
>> find my probl
Try holding a jumper wire between the two black wires on the PID that you
have circled.
You did say that the blue light on the PID is illuminated. So if thiss
causes the green light on the PID to go on and the brew boiler starts to
heat then the PID has gone bad.
On Sun, Dec 30, 2018 at 12:07
Found a loose wire coming off PID and now it's working again. Still have a
problem with the steam boiler not refilling once the machine is warmed up. I'll
start a new thread for that. Thanks again for the help
Jim
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wtus II with a retrofitted PID (did that
> last year with help from this group). Yesterday morning the machine heated
> up fine and was functioning normally, and then there was a loud popping
> noise from the machine and the brew boiler temp starting falling. Brew
> boiler is now not heating.
from this group). Yesterday morning the machine heated up
> fine and was functioning normally, and then there was a loud popping noise
> from the machine and the brew boiler temp starting falling. Brew boiler is
> now not heating. Did some exploring last night following the WLL video:
>
&
Thanks Ira. The SSR take AC load on both sides and I believe I saw 110V on
both sides( L1 and A2? ) when I measured. I'll confirm tonight. Seem
like the other possibility is a bad PID but not sure how to check it. I did
check the power to the PID and it is showing 110V and displaying the
Title: Re: Brew boiler not heating. SSR problem?
Hello BklynJim,
Friday, October 27, 2017, 6:27:57 AM, you wrote:
● SSR has 115V but no green light.
What does the other side of the SSR show? Read the label to see if it takes low voltage DC or 117AC. If the SSR is getting
Hey guys,
So I have a problem with my Brewtus II with a retrofitted PID (did that
last year with help from this group). Yesterday morning the machine heated
up fine and was functioning normally, and then there was a loud popping
noise from the machine and the brew boiler temp
ater
>> dispenser were fine.
>>
>> I don't have electrical testing equipment but followed the WLL
>> troubleshooting video, checked for loose wires and noticed the light on the
>> SSR is NOT illuminated.
>>
>> Now when I turn the machine off and then bac
Congrats!
Meter to get? You can spend lots but I've been happy with my extech ex330.
$50. Get some better leads that can clip to wire.
On Saturday, October 14, 2017 at 6:42:39 PM UTC-7, Nicholas Majka wrote:
> Thanks Bruce really kind of you! Unfortunately I just put in the PID this
>
My extra PID is a Gicar and the LEDs are blue.
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Thanks Bruce really kind of you! Unfortunately I just put in the PID this
morning. Do you know which pid you have as a spare? Is it the AKO or Gicar?
If Gicar is the screen red or blue?
> On Oct 14, 2017, at 8:20 PM, winnipegger65 wrote:
>
> Greetings from Winnipeg,
>
> I
Greetings from Winnipeg,
I hope you have luck fixing your PID. If you do find that your PID is faulty
and you need to get a new one, let me know. I have an extra one. A while ago, I
too was having trouble with my machine and was told I needed a new PID. After
finally figuring out what is
cond) and
>>> when I went to pull a shot the water was room temperature. Steam/water
>>> dispenser were fine.
>>>
>>> I don't have electrical testing equipment but followed the WLL
>>> troubleshooting video, checked for loose wires and noticed the ligh
nser were fine.
>>
>> I don't have electrical testing equipment but followed the WLL
>> troubleshooting video, checked for loose wires and noticed the light on the
>> SSR is NOT illuminated.
>>
>> Now when I turn the machine off and then back on, there is no
the
>> SSR is NOT illuminated.
>>
>> Now when I turn the machine off and then back on, there is no PID reading
>> for several minutes until the steam boiler gets warm, then the PID starts
>> to light up (still flickering). The brew boiler is still n
for loose wires and noticed the light on the
SSR is NOT illuminated.
Now when I turn the machine off and then back on, there is no PID reading
for several minutes until the steam boiler gets warm, then the PID starts
to light up (still flickering). The brew boiler is still not heating, and
dispenses
maintenance issues, many this group has helped
me with without even knowing it. But finally this one has me stumped.
My brew boiler is not heating.
The steam boiler comes up to pressure and the p-stat clicks over but
then nothing.
1) Steam boiler is working, comes up to and holds 1-1.25 bar
2) P-stat
If you're feeling lucky there is an amazing thing you can get called a strap
wrench, can try applying opposite pressure on its handle. I got my strap wrench
at Napa for $10 or so.
Strap wrench will also make short work of jars in the kitchen.
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Thank you! I didn't know that - always played it by feel. I know if too
thick the tape gets shredded.
On Thursday, September 15, 2016 at 9:40:00 AM UTC-7, bmacpiper wrote:
> Usually it will say on the label how many wraps are required. I believe
> yellow calls for three to get the published
+1 on the thicker (yellow or pink) Teflon tape. Seals well yet I am now
able to remove the element using hand tools. Remember with teflon tape more
isn't better, just a single wrap was all I needed. Clean the threads well
before reinstalling.
On Tuesday, September 13, 2016 at 9:42:46 AM UTC-7,
Usually it will say on the label how many wraps are required. I believe yellow
calls for three to get the published test results.
bmc
Sent from my iPhone
> On Sep 15, 2016, at 09:38, Eric Christoffersen wrote:
>
> +1 on the thicker (yellow or pink) Teflon tape. Seals well
I just went through this. I agree with Herman as well.
This time I made an aluminum washer and used the Loctite goop. I let it dry for
48 before putting it under pressure. The last time I didn't use the homemade
washer and only let it dry 24 hours. It leaked a few months later. If it leaks
+1 on Herman's comment. The element does not use a flare or compression
fitting, and the factory sealed with a liquid dope that sets up quickly.
Tightening is going to make it Leak worse because you'll break loose the
original dope. Remove it, clean the threads as best you can (and try to get
>
>> On Mon, Sep 12, 2016 at 3:51 PM, winnipegger65 <bewi...@shaw.ca> wrote:
>> My brewtus is leaking, just a bit, from the heating element in the brew
>> boiler. Once it gets warmed up, I guess some expansion happens and not more
>> water leaks out. Total leakag
You could always try to tighten it but I've never had a lot of luck with
that. it is worth a try though. If that doesn't work take it out, put some
pipe dope on it, and screw it back in. Make sure that you use food safe
pipe dope.
On Mon, Sep 12, 2016 at 5:07 PM, winnipegger65
Thanks Herman, quick reply!
My brother has an impact wrench so I can borrow that easily enough. I'll
check out Home Depot for a strap wrench.
Are you suggesting Herman that I need to remove the heating element first
before tightening it? I was thinking all I needed to do was to give it a
t 3:51 PM, winnipegger65 <bewi...@shaw.ca> wrote:
> My brewtus is leaking, just a bit, from the heating element in the brew
> boiler. Once it gets warmed up, I guess some expansion happens and not more
> water leaks out. Total leakage is maybe a teaspoon or less. The heating
> element is (I
y Brewtus is leaking, just a bit, from the heating element in the brew
> boiler. Once it gets warmed up, I guess some expansion happens and no more
> water leaks out. Total leakage is maybe a teaspoon or less. The heating
> element is (I think) a 38 mm socket and I have one that fits. Wha
My Brewtus is leaking, just a bit, from the heating element in the brew
boiler. Once it gets warmed up, I guess some expansion happens and no more
water leaks out. Total leakage is maybe a teaspoon or less. The heating
element is (I think) a 38 mm socket and I have one that fits. What I'm
My brewtus is leaking, just a bit, from the heating element in the brew
boiler. Once it gets warmed up, I guess some expansion happens and not more
water leaks out. Total leakage is maybe a teaspoon or less. The heating
element is (I think) a 38 mm socket and I have one that fits. What I'm
Thank you.
I put some high quality silver paste
under the SSR. The issue seems to
be resolved, and the machine is
functioning very well.
cheers,
-wb
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