KR> Gear location

[smwood]

My purpose in moving the main wheels 3 inches aft to 20 inches from the 
leading edge of the stub wing is to improve ground handling.  The plan is to 
not dump on the tail when boarding or dismounting.  Plus I can keep the nose 
wheel on the pavement on the bumpy taxiways at 2W6.
Moving the main wheel 3 inches aft will move the cg about 0.2 inches aft; 
that should not make much difference in flight stability.  The ground cg 
when I board or dismount does move to about 17 inches; that's why I need the 
wheels to be at 20 inches.  Elevator authority at slow speed prior to 
take-off does not appear to be an issue.  First high speed taxi will prove 
or disprove that theory.  And of course I will do another weight and balance 
with my digital scales prior to any attempted flight.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
>
> Sid has his main axle distance 17" aft of the stub wing leading edge, Joe
> has his 7" aft of the forward face of the main spar. Since the leading 
> edge
> of the stub wing should 10.75" forward of the forward edge of the main 
> spar
> they are essentially in the same position for a tri -gear. It seems to me
> the difference is other loading aft of the gear. According to Sid's w he
> is right in the middle of the range. I assume Joe's is the same since he
> flies in balance.  Going to the folks that like physics, something doesn't
> compute. Moving the wheels aft would fix the ground imbalance but would
> move the C.G. a little aft.
> My thoughts, Larry Bell
>
>
>
>> I've built my own gear and I measure out at 18"s back from the leading
>> edge to the axle center for the mains. 10"s from fire wall forward to 
>> axle
>> center.
>>
>> Dan Prichard
>> Portland Oregon

KR> "Engine-driven alternator?"

[smwood]

The Compufire electronic ignition on my 2180 VW from Great Plains uses 0.6 
to 7.9 amps, idle to wide open throttle, as displayed on my instrument panel 
ammeter.  The more sparks it makes, the more juice it takes.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
-- 
>
> The idea of a high-tech battery sounds interesting, but I wouldn't be
> needing it just for the avionics but also for the engine. I plan to have a
> regular VW engine, probably Great Plains, and they normally have one
> magneto, plus a secondary ignition that's powered by the alternator.  So
> either I'd have to fly on one magneto or have a battery system that's able
> to put out enough juice to run a VW secondary ignition system for a whole
> day's flying.  Maybe a lithium battery could do that, but I'm not even 
> sure
> how much juice a VW ignition system uses (or where to find that out).
>
>
> >
> Mike Taglieri
>

KR> Gear Placement

[smwood]

Mark,
I already have the top bolts on the upper gear legs with steel fender 
washers on the upper surface of the fiberglass.  The bottom of the legs have 
a single aluminum plate on the fiberglass, all per your suggestion several 
years ago.  With the aft extension I will put a steel plate in place of the 
aluminum plate on the bottom gear leg fiberglass to increase the clamping 
action.  My reasoning is to prevent splitting the gear leg due to increased 
twisting during landing and rough field operations.  Overall the extension 
will be a flat plate, 0.250 x 3.0 x 5.5 inches.  I am waiting for the 4130 
steel from AC Spruce now.

And still waiting for anyone to volunteer what the main gear position 
location is for their tri-gear KR-2.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA

> Now that I notice that gap at the very bottom of the gear, the bottom 
> bolts
> would see some tension, rather than compression, but the gear bracket 
> itself
> is still doing most of the resistance to bending.  I'd let the available
> hole spacing be my guide, but sandwiching the bottom of the leg a bit with 
> a
> small aluminum plate (or large AN equivalent of a fender washer) would
> likely satisfy me, if it were my plane.
>
> Mark Langford

KR> Gear Placement

[smwood]

I appreciate all the comments and concerns about main wheel gear placement 
for a tri-gear KR-2.  I know the main gear placement on my KR-2 needs 
improvement.  I can work that.
One pronouncement is conspicuously missing: What should the horizontal 
distance be in inches from the datum to the gear axels?
I can work with that number also.  What is it?

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA

KR> KR Forum-gear placement

[smwood]

Larry,
Thanks for the input on the Cessna 120 gear legs.
I have done weight and balance on my KR-2 (and on Larry Flesner's also). 
Getting very familiar with the Excel spread sheet.  My personal measurements 
on my KR-2 and using the W & B spread sheet clearly indicates the main 
wheels need to be moved.  The VW engine has been moved 2 inches forward from 
the plans call out by putting 2-inch spacers between the fire wall and stock 
engine mount.  Now in process of building some adapters for the bottom ends 
of the gear legs to extend the wheel axels 3 inches further aft for total of 
20 inches aft of datum (leading edge of the stub wing).

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA

> Mark,
> Your statement below reminds me of my old Cessna 120.  The Cessna 120 
> could nose over if the right situation arose probably mostly from applying 
> too much braking by the pilot. Several 120s I have seen over the years had 
> a horizontal steel bracket bolted to the normal axle bolt holes. This 
> bracket extended several inches forward of course because Cessna 120s are 
> tail draggers. The axle was then bolted to the forward end of the 
> extension. This extension with its extra leverage was supposed to really 
> help prevent a nose over situation on the 120. I always assumed that 
> Cessna made these parts since it is a certified aircraft but I don't know 
> that.
> I would imagine this same principle should work on a nose dragger, with a 
> rearward extension. The twisting moment might need to be considered on the 
> fiberglass landing gear. It may not matter as much as my imagination says 
> it may!
> Just wondering Sid if you have done your weight and balance? I will assume 
> you can't move your engine forward!
> Larry H
>
>> Can't you simply bolt an appropriate sized adapter plate to your current 
>> lower gear attach bracket that extends rearward just enough to keep the 
>> thing off it's tail?  Assuming it's thick enough, I would not expect any 
>> toe/camber geometry changes, although if you have wheel pants, they would 
>> need some reworking to meet up with the gear legs.
>>
>> That's essentially what I did to make my gear longer, except I went down 
>> instead of aft.  Really, I just made a new lower bracket that was longer, 
>> but essentially the same concept.  It worked, but I didn't like the view 
>> over the cowling.  You could also take that approach...redesigned bottom 
>> gear brackets that relocate the wheels further aft.
>>
>> Mark Langford

KR> Landing gear position

[smwood]

Using my weight and balance Excel spread sheet, I can do all manner of "what 
if" math quick and easy.  (Don't know if Mr. Pazmany had Excel, but his math 
is still valid.)  My datum is the leading edge of the stub wings per the 
KR-2 plans.  At my max gross weight I would not be able to load my KR-2 
without tipping on the tail at 17 inches main wheel location.  For flight 
the cg would be 14.6 inches; fly-able but not recommended.  With the main 
wheels at 19 inches that would be the balance or tipping point.  Any loading 
less than the max gross weight would work ok at the 19 inch setting.  The cg 
for flight would 14.7 inches (moving the weight of the main wheels will move 
the empty cg).  To get the cg less than 14 inches at max fuel would require 
limiting the passenger weight to less than 100 pounds.
To get a safe margin regarding tipping, the main wheel location on my KR-2 
needs to be set at 20 inches from datum.  I am fairly certain I have enough 
elevator authority for takeoff rotation.  Time will tell.
Regarding drilling the gear legs for initial installation, just use C-clamps 
to hold everything in position and measure the distance to the axels.  Set 
it where you want it to be.  A carpenter square and your stub wing templates 
are all the measuring tools you will need for that.  Right now I would 
recommend 20 inches.  As Larry says: "Your results may vary."

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
---
> With Sid's landing gear being 17" aft of datum?(leading edge) and the 
> problem with the the tail falling down. What would be a good position for 
> the landing gear if you haven't drilled your legs yet? I know you wouldn't 
> wanna make the nose to ?heavy because you would have problems rotating.?
>
> Paul Visk
> Belleville Il
> 618 406 4705
>

KR> KR Forum-gear placement

[smwood]

A retractable pogo stick on the tail does not seem to practical for my KR-2 
at this time.
This morning with just myself onboard and half fuel, the cg is at 12.6 
inches.  I tried raising the nose on a fast taxi down the runway.  With an 
estimated steady ground speed of 25 knots, I can easily raise the nose wheel 
off the pavement with back stick about two inches.  I estimate the speed 
because the ASI does not register until 40 knots.  I think I have the cg 
about correct for flight, but the cg is only 3.4 inches ahead of the main 
wheels.  Hence the tendency to dump on the tail.
If I used longer gear legs, that would move the main wheels further aft. 
But then there would be spring or stiffness issues, along with level stance 
on the ground.  If I angled the gear legs further aft, then the bottom of 
the leg would need rework to get the toe in correct; that would also need 
extra length on the legs with spring and stance considerations.  Mr. Pazmany 
shows lots of math to design the gear geometry to properly comply with Part 
23.  I am trying to avoid re-designing my KR-2.  I want a practical machine 
I can fly now without another year or two down time.
So, not dropping bombs yet, anyone have any other suggestions?

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA

>
> At 01:11 PM 7/4/2014, you wrote:
>>For tri-gear I am very much aware that the main wheels are not set
>>far enough to the rear to consistently keep the tail from dumping
>>when trying to mount or dismount.
> +++
>
> It's their placement when loaded for flight that is of primary
> concern.  Put them too far to the rear and it will be more difficult
> to rotate of takeoff.  One lightweight aircraft that we all know
> won't even set with the nose wheel on the ground without the pilot on
> board.  If loading and unloading is a problem a retractable tail
> stand might be in order.  The B-24 puts out a pogo stick when parked.
>
> Larry Flesner
>

KR> KR Forum

[smwood]

Mark,
For the KR Forum you could address the cg concerns for different engines and 
extending the engine mounts.  Some of the additional things going in the 
tail not in the plans could be trim tab motors, elevator counter balance 
stuff, wider elevators, antennas and associated wiring, auto pilot servos 
and hardware associated with removable turtle decks.  For tri-gear I am very 
much aware that the main wheels are not set far enough to the rear to 
consistently keep the tail from dumping when trying to mount or dismount. 
Don't know if these issues are addressed in the KR-2S supplement plans.
Today I would not build a two-place KR with a 34-inch wide cockpit: that is 
absurd.  Yep, been there, done that.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
---

> If anybody has any input as to what we should talk about at the KR Forum 
> (Monday morning July 28th at 8:30 in Pavilion 4), I'm open to suggestions. 
> I'm hoping my webinar will keep me from having to go over the very basics 
> of KRs, so we should have a lot more time to dedicate to specifics this 
> year around.  I'll steer "newbies" to the webinar with a handout.
>
> Mark Langford

KR> Mixture Meter Presentation

[smwood]

The mixture meter presentation will not be at the KR Gathering this year. 
However, I will be presenting two sessions of the Mixture Meter Forum at EAA 
Airventure on Tuesday July 29 from 10:00 to 11:15 AM and on Friday August 1 
from 1:00 to 2:15 PM both at Workshop Classroom 1.  Included in the forum 
are updates on the technology, sources for the equipment, installation 
considerations and real-world practical results.
Don't have to register - just show up.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA

KR> Starter

[smwood]

I bought my starter from Great Plains http://www.greatplainsas.com but don't 
see it in their catalog now.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smwood at md.metrocast.net
--
> I have searched the archives and maybe I am just missing it?.., does 
> anyone
> know of an aftermarket starter ( one I can get at an auto parts store ) 
> that
> will fit a Diehl case?
>
> If so, a part number? Make and model?
>
> Thank you,
>
> Clayton
>

KR> Skyview Installation

[smwood]

The FAA inspector at Washington FSDO required me to install a backup 
mechanical airspeed indicator.  I installed T's in the tubing at the Dynon 
D10A to get pitot-static air to the ASI.  That setup was okay with the 
inspector.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smwood at md.metrocast.net
---

 I am also installing a backup airspeed indicator. Should I use a separate 
pitot system for the ASI and the ADAHRS?
> Pete

KR> Progress

[smwood via KRnet]

Chris,
I am using the Innovate Digital MTX obtained from Jegs Performance.  I have
tried other AFR gauges, but these were not suitable for the aviation
application.  Prices vary along with data logging and other bells and
whistles.  If you burn 100 LL, expect to replace the O2 sensor every 100
hours or so due to lead clogging.
http://www.jegs.com/p/Innovate-Motorsports/Innovate-Motorsports-Digital-MTX-Wideband-Gauge/1558858/10002/-1
Whatever mixture meter you decide on, highly recommend you get it as a
system with O2 sensor, computer and display from one vendor, brand and
model.  Don't forget the correct bung to weld into your exhaust pipe.
I put on a Mixture Meter forum at the Gathering each year and also at
AirVenture.  Won't make the Gathering this year - Chino just to far for me -
but definitely will be at Oshkosh.

Sid Wood
smwood at md.metrocast.net
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA

- Original Message - 
Sid,
What mixture meter are you using?
Thanks
Chris Gardiner
-
My Zenith on the 2180 VW does go rich to lean from idle to WOT.  I have a 
Mixture Meter that shows this in real-time and can dial in the mixture from 
the cockpit as needed.  The knob in the cockpit is connected to the needle 
valve on the carb by a VW speedometer cable.  As far as I can determine, the 
Zenith I am using has only two jets: an idle jet with a screw adjustment and 
a run jet with a screw adjustment.  The run jet is the one that I am 
adjusting from the cockpit mixture control knob.  This set up works fine for 
me.  I figure: It ain't broke, so I don't need to fix it.  In my company of 
one, I am putting the design engineer on furlough and turning the flight 
testing over to the test pilot and flight test engineer.
>>
>> Sid Wood
 --

KR> Progress

[smwood via KRnet]

My Zenith on the 2180 VW does go rich to lean from idle to WOT.  I have a 
Mixture Meter that shows this in real-time and can dial in the mixture from 
the cockpit as needed.  The knob in the cockpit is connected to the needle 
valve on the carb by a VW speedometer cable.  As far as I can determine, the 
Zenith I am using has only two jets: an idle jet with a screw adjustment and 
a run jet with a screw adjustment.  The run jet is the one that I am 
adjusting from the cockpit mixture control knob.  This set up works fine for 
me.  I figure: It ain't broke, so I don't need to fix it.  In my company of 
one, I am putting the design engineer on furlough and turning the flight 
testing over to the test pilot and flight test engineer.

 Sid Wood
smwood at md.metrocast.net
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
--

> Sid, does your engine go very rich at mid to low throttle settings?
> Mine with the Zenith carb was good at idle and full throttle, but went
> very rich to the point of fouling plugs at mid range.  I didn't know
> what was going on until I installed the mixture meter then I could
> compensate for it.  Spoke to an engineer at Zenith and he told me that
> the part number for that carb was the generic one not tuned for a
> particular engine and there was a jet in it that should be a little
> bigger to even out the mixture across the whole throttle band.
>
> Brian Kraut
>
>  Original Message 
> >
> Made the first ground engine run after: the engine re-location (to
> adjust
> CG), installing new RevMaster oil cooler, oil pump (to control high oil
> temps), moving the fuel pump (to fix vapor lock) and adjusting the
> Zenith
> carb. After an eight-month stand-down the 2180 VW fired off on the
> fourth
> blade; runs smooth and strong. After a little warm up idle can be set at
>
> 600 RPM, but shakes a lot. 700 RPM is much smoother. OAT was 57 F & RH
> about 95%. Carb was making ice at 28 F. Carb heat works well. Cabin heat
>
> off the oil cooler works good. Mixture Meter works good. Have 6.9 hours
> TT
> on the engine.
> And no leaks!!!
> Need to finish the cowl, do another W & B, sign off the condition
> inspection
> and get on with Phase I flight testing.
>
> Sid Wood
> 

KR> Compression

[smwood via KRnet]

GP minimum recommended octane is 92 for the 2180 VW.
Does not matter which, autogas or 100LL, as long as you use 92 octane or 
higher.  Then there is the lead deposit issue with 100LL and the Ethanol 
issue with the autogas.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA


> Doran,
> I don't think you'll find an absolute answer to that. But if you want to 
> run autogas from the pump, you need to have a lower compression ratio 
> somewhere around 7.5:1. Higher compression ratios are fine, but you need 
> to run 100LL. I believe 8:1 is normal for a GP engine.
>
> Rob Schmitt
> Revmaster 2100D
> KR2S
> N18562Z
>
> Hello folks, I need to call Great Plains and get the manual sent to me but
> in the meantime does anybody know if the recommended compression for the
> 2180 conversion?
>   Doran
>N186RC
> ___
> 

KR> Pictures

[smwood via KRnet]

I have over 24,000 hits on my website and the hit meter is steady climbing. 
I am still adding pictures for changes to the airplane.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA

>
> I was playing around with my pics on flicker and noticed most of them were 
> set as private. So I figured out how to change them to public. I also saw 
> how many views I had. WOW! Thanks for visiting. Sorry about all the inside 
> spar pictures. There for my DAR.
>
> My email is working : ) Thanks Mark
>
> Pictures
> https://m.flickr.com/#/photos/ppau
>
> Paul Visk

KR> Known Icing

[smwood]

I know that none of our KR aircraft are flown in known icing.  AOPA is 
advertising two products, LiquiGlide and Neverwet, that supposedly will 
reduce or eliminate icing on flying surfaces.  I saw the Neverwet boxes on 
the shelf at Lowe's paint department.  The T engineer in me immediately 
asks "Does it really do that?"  Any one have any experience with these 
products?  Wonder if it will let bug guts slide right off?  How about off of 
Plexiglas?

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA

KR> Sanding blocks

[smwood]

I did the same thing with a 2x4.  Staple the edge of the sandpaper to the 
vertical side of  the 2x4.  Worked for me.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA

>
> Any suggestions on sanding blocks. I made a 4ft board for my horizontal 
> stabilizer out of a straight 2x4. I'm having problems keeping the 
> sandpaper on the board. I used contact cement and that's not seem to hold 
> and when the edges peal up it digs into the foam. I'm at the start of a 
> lot of sanding and I figure there's a LOT of experience out there with 
> sanding. ?I could definitely use some suggestions.?
> Thanks
>
> Paul Visk

KR> web sites

[smwood]

This is the website that I use, $4.95 per month.  Pay with PayPal who hits 
my Visa every month like clockwork.

http://www.expercraft.com/

This is the link to my home page.  http://websites.expercraft.com/sidwood/

The links for pictures that I call out on the KRnet are just copy and paste 
from my expercraft website.  Uploading of pictures and captions to the 
website is simply do what the prompt says.  The website manager does want 
you to downsize the photos before you upload to conserve space.  Every photo 
manager program has the one click selection for down sizing usually under 
the properties menu.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA

>
> Netters,
>
> Can anyone suggest one or more web sites, without going in to great
> detail, where pictures can be posted.  I would like to upload a
> considerable number, (50+)  photos like my tail light which we
> recently discussed.  I have a web site but it is outdated and I have
> no idea of the password or how to get in to the site and make
> changes.  Mark Langford set it up for me years ago.  At this point it
> is nothing more than a stone tablet,  you can read it but you're not
> going to alter it in any way. :-)
>
> Anyway, some site where computer dummies can just post photos and
> maybe a tag to go on them.
>
> Thanks
>
> Larry Flesner

KR> Mixture control on Zenith carb

[smwood]

I wrapped Teflon tape around the needle screw for packing.  The screw 
threads turn easily in the Teflon and no leaks.  I tried O-rings around the 
needle shaft, but had to tighten the gland nut to prevents leaks; then the 
shaft was too tight to easily turn with the cockpit control.  I used a 
Volkswagen speedometer cable for the flex shaft; this works, but does have 
torsional windup before the needle screw starts to turn.  Still looking for 
a flex shaft that does not have the torsional windup.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA

> The one thing I was never happy about with the setup was that there was
> a packing and gland nut on the carb around the mixture screw that had to
> be loose enough to let the shaft turn, but tight enough so it would not
> leak.  A much better setup would have been something with an O ring.  It
> seemed to work fine in the 40 something hours I used it, but it was not
> going to last forever.
>
> On 4/7/14, brian.kraut at eamanufacturing.com
>  wrote:

KR> Electronic displays in the sunlight

[smwood]

I may have posted this before, so bear with me.
My Dynon D10A display does definitely wash out in direct sunlight.  The 
later generation Dynon units do have brighter displays and are purported to 
be readable in direct sunlight.  Dynon has no upgrade to increase the 
maximum brightness more than is now resident in my D10A.  I could purchase a 
later generation unit at several $K or paint the top of my bubble canopy.  I 
will live with it until I can complete the Phase I flight tests.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA

>
> > Made a nuisance of myself at the Dynon booth.  Dynon had some great 
> > looking
> stuff, but the sales rep politely declined my request to move the displays
> to the sunlight coming in the door to see if it really does that.
>
> Sid Wood
>
> Sid,
> You saw my panel at the KR Gathering 2013.  Trust me, it really does that.
> I have had a lot of Dynon products, and they all do that.  But so do many 
> of
> the others, like Grand Rapids, Garmin.
>
> Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC

KR> Gap between counterweight

[smwood]

The gap around the aileron counter weight on my KR-2 is 1/4-inch at the 
closest point where the weight comes through the wing skin.  The arm goes 
through the middle of the trailing aux spar; closest clearance on the arm is 
1/8-inch.  The counter weights are flatter and wider than the plans to keep 
more inside the upper and lower skins.  On the bottom skin I put a small 
fairing to cover the hole on each wing.  The fairings are just big enough to 
permit the counter weight to go past the bottom skin line and not contact 
the fairing during full aileron deflection ( plus 10, minus 20 degrees). 
Clearance at full deflection is 1/8-inch.  A 1/8-inch hole in the bottom of 
the fairing allows water to drain.  My thought was a fairing sticking out 
would be better than a gapping hole as far as aerodynamic streamlining. 
Don't know if the drain holes whistle.
BTW the F-18 models E,F & G have a series of several hundred open small 
holes around the perimeter of the jet engine air inlets. If you are curious 
why, contact me off-line.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA

> Kr friends.
> I was wondering how many space you all have between the counterweight And 
> the egde of the hole in the aft of the aft spar. To prevent a aileron jam 
> I am thinking about 10 mm space around it.
> Wat do you guys have ?
> Thanks
>
> Stef.
> --

KR> Building

[smwood]

I hear you Ray.  I shall be flying this Spring.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA


> --
> > Still working on my project and seeing how/what I can do to make it 
> > happen - before I die of old age...
> Ray
> New Orleans
> 504-616-9098
>
>
> --

KR> Zenith Carb

[smwood]

I am using a Zenith from Great Plains on my 2180 VW.  The carb is mounted 
directly behind the Diehl adapter case.  If you have a magneto at that 
location, then mounting the carb there will not work to well.  I used the 
intake manifold kit from Great Plains, but opened the Y section to raise the 
carb higher.  The carb mounting  plate was cut off and re-welded 90-degrees 
to the original to face the carb air inlet to the right side.  I made a 
bracket to mount the carb to the center of the Diehl adapter case.  The 
speedometer cable has some torque wind-up before the mixture needle actually 
starts to move.  Wish I could find a cable with the same flexibility as the 
speedometer cable, but without the springy wind up.  Using the O2 mixture 
meter with this arrangement is dirt simple.  The Zenith does not have an 
accelerator pump, so have to slowly advance the throttle from idle to keep 
the engine from stalling.  From 700 RPM to 1300 RPM takes about 3 seconds. 
Past about 1300 RPM can jam the throttle with no further concern

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA


>
> On my old KR I was using the Zenith that Great Plains sells with a single
> runner manifold to the heads. That engine was also a 2180 cc. That
> combination work very well for many years. It ran smooth throughout the
> throttle range, summer or winter, idled well and was easy to start. The 
> only
> thing I did not like about it was using a speedometer cable to control the
> mixture. I like the robustness of the hardware on the Revflow. I am going 
> to
> try one more time with the new needle, but I am getting all the parts
> together to use the Zenith again.  I want to fly the plane and not fixate 
> so
> much on the carburetor. Right now I am afraid to go far from the airport. 
> Of
> coarse I will have to do some glass work on the cowling to make the Zenith
> fit and come up with a mixture control for it, because it needs to hang
> lower under the engine.
>
Re:  flying, KR 19-8322 (Roger Bulla)

KR> New wing skin idea - Fuel tanks

[smwood]

I tested the PVC water pipes and found that the fuel would weep through the 
sealed pipe until it was all gone in about three months.
I am also testing Vinyl fence posts.  I brought the test items to the 
Gatherings at MVN several times.  Larry always had me keep the gasoline 
outside the terminal building on the picnic table.  The sealed Vinyl post 
has held automotive gasoline with 10 percent Ethanol for seven years and not 
lost a drop.  I check the loss rate (zero) by weighing the Vinyl post test 
items on a digital scale.  Apparently the glue used for the Vinyl stands up 
to gasoline and Ethanol quite well.  I would have used the Vinyl posts in my 
KR-2 when I replaced the Vinyl Ester tanks, but would have required too much 
rework on the existing wing structure.  Were I building from scratch, I 
would definitely use the Vinyl fence posts; they are available at Lowe's in 
3, 4, 5 and 6 inch sizes.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA

> --
>>>How fuel resistant is PVC, ABS? Drain pipe ABS is really strong and
>>fairly light. Peter
> +
>
> Bill Clapp used PVC pipe for fuel tanks and found the fuel would
> slowly "weep" through the
> pipe.  http://www.krnet.org/mvn2004/040929277.jpg Someone else was
> doing a test using the square vinyl post covers and indicate early
> success.  I don't recall who that was.
>
> I would suggest that there have been enough different things tried on
> KR's to satisfy most builders curiosity.  If you're building simply
> to fly, go with proven ideas and save time.  If you're building to
> fulfill your desire to experiment, go for it..
>
> Larry Flesner
>-- 

KR> New wing skin idea

[smwood]

I built in wing tanks per the Diehl plans between the forward and aft spars, 
and from the WAF out to the first wing rib.  Turned out to be 10.8 gallons 
per side.  That 21.6 gallons would provide over 6 hours endurance plus 
reserve.  Way longer than I care to sit in my tiny cockpit for one flight. 
I have since installed smaller aluminum tanks.  Think it through on the full 
length dimension for wing tanks.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
---
>
> Hi guys
> It is my plan to put full length wing tanks inside my wings between the
> spars ...
> Dene Collett
> 

KR> Ercoup flying

[smwood]

The civilianized T-34B (Beech called it a D-45) had bungee cords 
interconnecting the ailerons and rudder to aid coordinated turns. 
Deflecting the rudder would also move the ailerons.  The bungee cords were 
easy to over-ride with pedal pressure for slips, and spins.  The Navy T-34B 
did not have the bungee cords.

Sid Wood
Tri-KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA

> --
>
> I've never flown one, but the 'coupe had spring-mediated control linkage 
> between the rudder and ailerons which provided automatic control 
> coordination. This worked very well to prevent the cross-control stall 
> problem, but made crabbing into a cross wind and slipping more 
> difficult...not impossible. The benefit of good design eliminating pilot 
> error is incredible.(witness the cessna fuel system) and can extend to the 
> broadest level of design...the B-33 Debonair practically lands itself, and 
> this has saved many a dollar for tired pilots at the end of long 
> cross-country flights. The plane has 80 gal tanks, and can safely travel 
> for 6 1/2 hrs. You can't believe how hard it can be to land at night after 
> dehydrating at 12.5k ft. all afternoon and into the darkness. Peter

KR> Pressure testing my wing tanks

[smwood]

My welded aluminum wing tanks have identical dimensions, but one holds 8.3 
gallons and the other holds 7.9.  The machine shop that constructed the 
tanks used 30 psi air to leak test and permanently bulged the top and bottom 
(formerly) flat plates.  Uneven bulges make the difference in capacities. 
At home I used my lung power to supply compressed air through my home made 
manomometer.  Mark Langford has manomometer construction and usage on his 
web site.  I found 7 additional leaks using dish detergent that the machine 
shop had missed.  The leaks were re-welded with no further issues. 
Fortunately the bulged tanks still would fit in the intended wing locations.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
---
> So here I am, finished my wing tanks and very proud of the welding work.
> Somebody mentioned that I should pressure test the tank to ensure it is 
> leak
> free. I usually take good advice to heart, so I hooked up the compressor,
> blocked off all the inlet, breather and other openings, prepared the 
> little
> water spray can and started the compressor. Slowly I start pressing the
> lever on the gun and start spraying the seams with water to see if I 
> detect
> any bubbles. Finally I found a corner with a fine mist. I couldn't see
> exactly where this offending pinhole is and I increased the pressure a bit
> whilst spraying some more water on the offending seam. After about 3-4
> minutes of this adding pressure then spraying water and closely watching 
> for
> the mist, I heard a "clunk" sound. Ignoring the sound (I am not stupid I
> know the tank will move a bit with pressure inside) I concentrate on this
> point on the seam and another two "clunks" further I finally pinpoint the
> pinhole.
>
> Pierre
--
> Thank you for being so brave and sharing this lesson with all of us.
>
> Had you added a small portion of dish washing detergent to the water you
> could have got away with just a PSI or two.
>
> We used to use it in the airforce to detect oxy leaks and tradies use it 
> to
> detect gas leaks in home/caravan systems.
>
> Paul.
>
> -Original Message-
>
> prepared the little water spray can and start spraying the seams with 
> water
> to see if I detect any bubbles.
- 
>
> Just FYI anyone who needs to test your fuel tank for leaks.  Vans (RV) 
> sells
> a kit for doing this and it involves a balloon attached to a valve.  You 
> put
> in just enough air to get the balloon to expand.  Then if it does not
> deflate, you are good to go.  If it does, you don't need any more pressure
> than to keep the balloon inflated and you spray a soap/water solution as
> suggested, and look for the bubbles.  The kit is cheap.
>
> Daniel R. Heath -?Lexington, SC

KR> EAA Sportair workshops

[smwood]

I was an instructor for several years for the Sportair Workshops for 
Composites and volunteer as an instructor every year at the AirVenture 
Composites workshop.  The AirVenture session is actually the first lesson of 
the weekend  course.  The weekend course covers every aspect of composites 
that the homebuilder may encounter.  Some of the lessons you may or may not 
need for your particular project.  The format is: Theory presentation 
followed immediately by hands-on practice, advancing theory followed 
immediately by more advanced hands-on practice, until you know and can do 
all that is needed for homebuilt projects.  Knowledge can be pricey; some 
mistakes can exact the ultimate price.  Better to make the mistakes in the 
class room under supervision than on your project on your own.  The best 
thing you can learn in these workshops is the genuine confidence that you 
can get the job done right the first time.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
-

> I would like to know if anyone can provide feedback on the EAA SportAir 
> Composite Construction workshop.
> There is a workshop to be held locally in about a month and I would like 
> to know if anyone has attended this workshop and if so do you feel it is 
> worth the $350.00 fee.
> The cost seems pretty pricey to me and is up about $70.00 from last year.
> To the guys who have gone before me and learned glassing on their own- 
> would it be smarter to invest the cost of the workshop in cloth & resin 
> and learn it as I go ?
> Any input is appreciated.
> Jim Litchfield
> Virginia Beach, VA
>

KR> KR Gathering 2014

[smwood]

Steve Glover,
How many days until the 2014 KR Gathering in Chino, CA?
I am going to try for the longest distance flown trophy.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA

KR> Cowl Construction

[smwood]

I was asked off-line how I located where to cut the air inlets after 
glassing the foam plug.

I had put holes in the foam at each corner of the prospective inlet and
filled these holes with micro during the filling and sanding of the foam.
After the fiberglass had set, the white micro spots were visible under the
fiberglass.  Marked lines on the fiberglass with a wet erase Sharpie and cut
with a Dremel plastic cutting wheel.  Just to hedge the bet, I cut about
3/16" inside the lines.  Ripped off the cut fiberglass rectangle; hogged out
the foam from the center and filed to the final shape after spotting the
duct behind the nose bowl foam.

I put the micro on the nose bowl fiberglass after cutting the air inlets.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA


>> Here is a picture of the new cowl for my tri-gear KR-2 with fresh
>> fiberglass, micro slurry and air inlets.
>> https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/158194715052ca11c154220.jpg
>> 

KR> Cowl Construction

[smwood]

Larry,
Last week there was a mention on the KRnet of using alcohol to thin micro 
slurry.  I have never done that; did not occur to me.  However, with that 
thought in mind, I tried using Epoxy Reducer.  I just happened to have some 
left over from trying to get the Smooth Prime to work.  While we are here: 
Smooth Prime may work for fabric finishing, but it is expensive and I 
finally had to abandon that for micro slurry and get on with finishing my 
KR-2.
Epoxy Reducer E-500 is produced by Poly Fiber and available from Aircraft 
Spruce.  It contains Toluene, Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK), and Methyl Isobutyl 
Ketone (MIK).  The label is not kidding when it says to have ventilation. 
Lots of fumes here.
To make the micro slurry, I mixed the West System resin and 206 hardener, 
then added micro, mixed and added more micro until the ball was like bread 
dough.  I could pick the whole ball up out of the cup with the stirring 
stick.  Then I added a few drops of Epoxy Reducer, mixed that, added a few 
more drops and mixed.  (Here is where a West System pump in the Reducer 
gallon can really comes in handy.)  Kept adding a few drops at a time until 
the mixture was like warm cake icing out of a can.  Spreads on great.  Need 
lots of ventilation due to the Toluene, MEK and MIK in the Reducer.
After 24 hour cure at 68 degrees F, the micro with Epoxy Reducer sands very 
easily.
Some of the cowl was done with just micro and epoxy; the extra epoxy in the 
mix makes for a much more difficult time for sanding.  The extra epoxy tends 
to gum up and clog the sandpaper, especially with a power sander.

Bottom line: Highly recommend getting all the micro balloons in the epoxy 
that it can hold; then getting the ball to flow with Epoxy Reducer.  Thin 
the slurry to your spreading comfort level.  The Epoxy Reducer evaporates 
quickly and completely leaving the epoxy intact.  Spread the slurry quickly. 
On top, you can pour it on and let gravity level it.  On sides and bottom, 
gravity is not your friend; so you need a thicker slurry with less Reducer. 
A rotisserie would be handy for this application.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA


> --
> Sid, do you use alcohol in your micro slurry? Does that sand fairly 
> easily?
> Thanks, Larry Bell
>>
 
>> Here is a picture of the new cowl for my tri-gear KR-2 with fresh
>> fiberglass, micro slurry and air inlets.
>> https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/158194715052ca11c154220.jpg
>>
>> Bernie Wunder provided lots of help above and beyond laying up fiberglass
>> for this project.  Thank you Bernie.
>>
>> Next up is sanding, cutting and fitting.
>>
>> Sid Wood
>> >>

KR> Aluminum Band Saw

[smwood]

I purchased a metal cutting band saw from Sears about 28 years ago for $128. 
The same saw goes for $492 now.
http://www.sears.com/black-bull-mbs45-4-1-2-inch-metal-cutting/p-SPM1532756414?prdNo=5=5=G5
Every piece of aluminum on my KR-2 that ever needed to be cut was done on 
this band saw, plus numerous other projects.   A steady hail of aluminum and 
steel saw dust chips has rained down on the motor.  No problem: The air 
intake and exhaust for cooling are on the underside of the motor.  The 
V-belt and pulleys are enclosed in a plastic cover.  Only maintenance ever 
done was to replace the blades.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA

-- 
> In 1968 I bought a used Delta band saw for cutting wood. I used it some, 
> not
> a lot.  One day I put a jack shaft on it and a couple of pulleys and by
> changing the belt over, it would run slow or fast and through the years I
> cut a lot of metal with it.  I always just blew  the dust and debris off
> from time to time with my air compressor...  After many years the motor
> failed, it had inhaled way too much aluminum and metal dust.  I was able 
> to
> rebuild it and it wasn't that expensive, but a simple little cover over 
> the
> motor made of about anything might have prevented that from happening.
> Merry Christmas Paul, enjoy your new band saw. I don't know what I would 
> do
> without mine..  Lynn
>

> , but a simple little cover over the
> motor made of about anything might have prevented that from happening.
> Merry Christmas Paul, enjoy your new band saw. I don't know what I would 
> do
> without mine..  Lynn
> -
>
> This is MOST important. I used a light cloth over the end of the motor 
> with
> wire twisted around the motor to hold in place, much better than 
> rebuilding
> or replacing the motor.
> PS-  REMEMBER to shake the filter clean regularly.
>
> Phil Matheson

KR> RR VW Engine Mount

[smwood]

I still have the mount for any one who has a use for it.  This mount will 
connect any size VW to a KR-1 or KR-2 firewall per the plans.  This engine 
mount will also work well for an engine run test stand.  It also could be 
used for a bench mount after the VW case halves are bolted together during 
engine build up.  It does not attach to a Diehl adapter case.  The intent 
was for a bare-bones VW installation sans starter.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242 (flying , but down for mods)
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
+++
> Did this engine stand sell? I sent a private email but no reply.
>
> Is this the bench mount or slide into a metal engine stand?
>
> DC
> Bothell, WA
>
> On Wednesday, November 20, 2013 11:10 AM, smwood  
> wrote:
>
> I have a RR standard VW engine mount for sale, never used.? $40 plus
> shipping.? Personal check or postal money order.
> Send me an email off-line.
>
> Sid Wood
> Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
> Mechanicsville, MD, USA
> smwood at md.metrocast.net
>
> --
> >
> Dennis Cook wrote:
>
>>Did this engine stand sell? I sent a private email but no reply
>
> I'm pretty sure he means "aircraft to engine mount", not "workbench to
> engine mount".  You can buy a new VW to bench mount for that, I'll bet, 
> but
> it's a flaming bargain for an airplane engine mount...
>
> Mark Langford
> ML at N56ML.com
> website at http://www.N56ML.com
>  

KR> RR VW Engine Mount

[smwood]

I have a RR standard VW engine mount for sale, never used.  $40 plus 
shipping.  Personal check or postal money order.
Send me an email off-line.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smwood at md.metrocast.net

KR> Vinyl ester for fuel tanks

[smwood]

Vinyl ester has slightly better durability for 100 LL aviation fuel.  Epoxy 
is satisfactory also for 100 LL.  Both resins will dissolve slowly in the 
Ethanol that our enlightened government requires to be added to automotive 
gasoline.  In the presence of water in the Ethanol laced fuel, the Ethanol 
is much more active and will dissolve Vinyl ester quite quickly.  (Been 
there, done that, got the aluminum tanks.)  The water is absorbed by the 
Ethanol that is stored in vented gas station and aircraft fuel tanks until 
it reaches 6% water at saturation.  All the chemistry experts I checked with 
refer to this condition as a super solvent for Vinyl ester.

No mechanical filter will separate the dissolved water from the Ethanol.

Rubber components in aircraft fuel systems are also attacked by Ethanol. 
Worst case is the hardening of the tiny rubber tip on the float needle for 
float carburetors.

Recommend that Ethanol automotive fuel not be used in Vinyl ester and Epoxy 
aircraft fuel tanks.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA



 My M-19 is being constructed using the pink board and AeroPoxy laminating
>> resin, but the wet cell wing fuel tanks will use vinylester for fuel
>> resistance.
>>
>> Oscar Zuniga

KR> W apps

[smwood]

The Excel spread sheet that we used at the 2013 Gathering does the same 
thing as these apps.  A plot of CG numbers is included at the bottom of the 
spread sheet (standard Excel operations).  E-mail me off-line and I will 
send you a copy for free.

 Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA

-
> From AOPA
> Thought some might be interested
> Larry Flesner
> ++
>
> Weighing in on weight-and-balance apps
>
> October 28, 2013
>
> By Ben?t J. Wilson
>
> Weight-and-balance apps seem to be very popular
> with pilots. The last time I did a column on them
> June
> 6, I received a flood of others they say I
> missed. So here are five more recommended by
> members. These are not endorsements of any app.
>
> FlightScale ($3.99  in
> iTunes
> and $1.99 in
> Google
> Play)?This tablet app allows users to add
> aircraft data, including the envelope limits, and
> see the weight and center of gravity plot on a
> live graph. The app includes three different
> templates that allow users to enter data for analysis.
>
> EZ Load ($3.99 in
> iTunes)?This
> iPhone/iPad app was designed for users of smaller
> general aviation aircraft to do accurate checks
> of weight and balance. Users enter the necessary
> information for each aircraft type and the app
> provides four primary and one auxiliary view:
> list, main, graph, description, and info.
>
> Avilution Weight and Balance ($4.95  in
> Google
> Play)?This smartphone app can compute aircraft
> weight, balance, mean aerodynamic chord, and
> center of gravity. The weight/balance range information is shown on a 
> chart.
>
> Aircraft Weight and Balance ($9.99 in
> Google
> Play)?This smartphone app is preloaded with the
> Cessna 152, Cessna 172, and Piper Cherokee, but
> you can add and remove aircraft as needed.
> Features include ability to enter fuel by weight
> instead of volume, compute weight shift/ballast
> suggestions when needed, and share reports via email or save to an SD 
> card.
>
> NextGen Systems Weight & Balance (free in
> iTunes)?This
> iPhone app allows users to customize the
> parameters of almost everything and include all
> of their airplanes under a single program.
> Features include building an airplane (this will
> cover more than 80 percent of the general
> aviation fleet), creating a load sheet with
> graph, and offering in-app tech support and
> tutorials. While the app is free, users must pay
> between $3.99 and $4.99 for each aircraft type.

KR> Post curing wings

[smwood]

I disagree on the post curing process at 150 degrees F.  You can certainly 
cure most room-cure epoxy types quickly at 150 degrees F.  To do the post 
cure you have to get the temperature to  the T sub g point.  That is the 
softening point of any epoxy.  For room-cure types this varies from 180 to 
220 degrees F.  At those temperatures the lumber glue joints in the wing 
will soften.  So, the part must be completely supported as in a mold, not 
just hanging.  Otherwise, the part will sag into a puddle.

That's also why white paint is recommended for parts exposed to the sun.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA


> --
>
> It can be done with a few simple tools and some ingenuity.  You'll need 
> some
> 4x8 construction foam panels (the 1" pink stuff works well), a couple of
> heat guns and an oven thermometer.  Build a box of the foam panels big
> enough to hold a wing section, suspend the wing section from the top and
> place a heat gun at each of the box (pointing well away from the wing
> section).  I suspended each heat gun on a wire at the ends of the box with
> the nozzle pointing toward the middle of the box.  I put the thermometer
> pickup in the middle, just below the bottom surface of the wing.  With the
> foam box closed up, it took about 10 minutes for the temperature to 
> register
> 150 degrees.  I wanted to cure the wing at that temperature for at least 
> an
> hour.  If the temperature got over 150, I opened the end of the box to let
> in a little cool air.  I seemed to work well.
>
> You can go on the KRSuper2 web site and look in section 5 of the manual to
> see some pictures of how Scott Watts did his wing.
>
> Dave McCauley 

KR> KRnet Digest, Vol 1, Issue 152

[smwood]

Joe,
The main wheels have to be far enough aft so that the tail does not hit the 
ground every time some one gets in or out of the airplane.  You don't know 
what the CG is until the airplane is completed.  If the wheels are too far 
aft, then will not have enough low speed elevator authority to rotate for 
take off and for landing; not a problem for KR aircraft.
I should have put my main wheels about 2 inches further aft to preclude 
dumping the tail with a passenger on board and me trying to climb in or out. 
(Been there, done that.)

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA


> Can someone tell me the angle of the main gear legs for a tricycle landing 
> gear , the swept back angle from the spar? I mounted my gear legs and they 
> seem to be angled further aft than what I've seen on other KR's.I haven't 
> measured the distance from the aft side of main spar but I would  say 8 to 
> 9 " to the center of the leg where the wheel axle will mount. What is the 
> envelope for either landing gear configuration forward or aft of the C of 
> G plus 5" minus 10"?
>
> Joe Cruz
> Spencer,NY
>
> End of KRnet Digest, Vol 1, Issue 152
> *
> 

KR> ethanol-free fuel link

[smwood]

I replaced the fiberglass wing tanks in my KR-2 with welded aluminum tanks. 
Ethanol in the mogas, that I was trying to use, was dissolving the Vinyl 
Ester resin rather quickly.  Rubber components in the carb were being 
hardened and would not seal.  (Lots of fun and excitement when the carb 
overflows while the engine is running.)  Now using 100LL exclusively.  The 
fuel system is good to go now.  The tank change out and carb rebuild cost 
about $1500 and six months down time.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA

- Original Message - 
> Pure gasoline should be good with glass & plastic tanks...
>
> Ethanol degrades certain rubber-ish compounds & the interior of some
> varieties of fuel-lines... The 'mush-ifying' of fuel-tanks has been a
> problem for fiberglass boats, too...
>
> So even without glass tanks... 'Keep the booze in your glass & out of
> your gas'...
>
> Fortunately, my airfield has pure gasoline on-field
>
> On 8/3/2013 8:37 PM, Jeff Scott wrote:
>> This last winter the cost of 100LL finally hit my pain threshhold when I 
>> realized I had burned $7000 in 100LL during 2012.  With a $2 per gallon 
>> difference, burning Mogas will make a significant impact over the course 
>> of a year.  In February I dragged my old 100 gallon tank out of storage, 
>> serviced the electric pump, replaced the filters and hoses, then put it 
>> back to use hauling mogas.  The only alcohol free Mogas in our area is 90 
>> octane AKI and is 35 miles away.
>>
>> I have been running a mixture of 80% 90 AKI Mogas and 20% 100LL in both 
>> planes.  The O-200 in the KR and the O-320 in the SuperCub are both 8.5:1 
>> compression engines.  My KR has sloshed Saf-T-Poxy tanks and the Super 
>> Cub has glass tanks that were made with an unknown resin before I bought 
>> the project.  Neither seem to be any worse for having used Alcohol free 
>> Mogas.
>>
>> I have seen disastrous results from using alcohol contaminated fuel in 
>> glass tanks.  One was thousands of $$ damage to the fuel system of a 
>> Cherokee 235 and the other totaled the plane (a Grumman Cheetah), so be 
>> sure to test your fuel.
>>
>> Jeff Scott
>> -Los Alamos, NM
>>
>>> - Original Message -
>>>
>>> NetHeads,
>>>
>>> For those who'd rather burn ethanol-free fuel, there's a website that 
>>> lists most known vendors in the US and Canada at 
>>> http://www.pure-gas.org/ .
>>> Mark Langford
>>> ML at N56ML.com
>>> website at http://www.N56ML.com
>>> 

KR> OSHKOSH

[smwood]

Another forum that may be of interest:
  Thu 8/1 10:00 AM - 11:15 AM Mixture Meter  Workshop Classroom II K10 
Sid Wood Forum

http://www.eaaapps.org/forumsearchresults.aspx?searchdate=1=08/01/2013

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA

KR> OSHKOSH

[smwood]

  Mon 7/29 8:30 AM - 9:45 AM KR Building and Flying  Forum Pavilion 04 
K09 Mark Langford

http://www.eaaapps.org/forumsearchresults.aspx?searchdate=1=07/29/2013

>
> What time and what pavilion is the KR Forum in on Monday?
>
>
> Mark Jones (N886MJ)
> Stevens Point, WI
> E-mail: flykr2s at charter.net
> Web: www.flykr2s.com
>
>
> --

KR> Firewall Space

[smwood]

I am continually amazed at how much clear space some KR's have on the fire 
wall while others, like my KR-2, are packed.  Is there some rhyme or reason 
for that?

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA

---
> See enclosed photo.  More to come...
>
> Mark Langford
> URL: 
> 
>
> --

KR> thrust

[smwood]

When I run up my 2108 VW on level pavement, the nose will dip down and the 
attitude gyro shows the number of degrees.  Shut down I hung weights on the 
crank shaft to get the same nose down pitch.  Using similar math as for the 
weight & balance measurements, I calculated the thrust to be 203 pounds at 
3080 RPM static.  That measurement is prone to some error in duplicating the 
pitch angle on my gyro and the geometry measurements.  The force gauge as 
used in the video is more elegant, probably more accurate and does give a 
direct reading.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA

> Has anybody measured static thrust - if so how
> spring scale on tail?
>
> John from iPad
>
> 
>
>>
> http://youtu.be/DOeKsD8aXq0
>
> -> 

KR> VW engine oil temperature

[smwood]

Appreciate all the commentary and suggestions.
I think I have a reasonable bracketing on various recommended temperatures 
except for the oil temperature (251 F).  The newness of the engine may be 
contributing some extra heat.  Another factor could be the prop: I don't 
know for sure if the Sterba 52X52 prop is right for my airplane.  Might be 
lugging to much and producing more heat and less power.  I will have to play 
with the engine tuning for next flight.
My plan is to keep the existing oil cooler setup.  Added will be to blow 
some fresh air on the bottom of the engine sump.  The sump has cast ribs and 
some tapped holes; just the thing to fasten some sheet metal.  I saw a 
baffle arrangement on a KR website, but cannot find it now.  I remember how 
that looked and can adapt that baffle arrangement to my VW installation. 
Also means yet another mod to the cowl and even more down time.  Gotta do 
what you gotta do.
Does anyone have any info on cooling the VW oil sump?

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA

KR> Weight & Balance

[smwood]

781 pounds does exceed my self-assigned goal of 650 set many years ago. 
However, adding a 2180 VW, Diehl adapter and electric, mechanical fuel pump, 
oil filter, carb heat, cabin heat, Diehl skins, bigger spar, three batteries 
(main and two backups), extra airspeed and wet compass, ELT, panel mount 
comm, 250-watt transponder, intercom, GPS, cabin lights, seat belt anchors, 
hydraulic brakes (that really work), upholstery, fiber glass seats, welded 
fuel tanks, strobes and nav lights, landing lights, wheel fairings, 30 
inspection panels, cockpit access doors, Dynon D10A, electronic magnetic 
compass, electronic OAT, bull ring tie downs and a Mixture Meter does bump 
up the empty weight somewhat.  There are some safety and utility tradeoffs. 
I fully intend to fly this airplane at night and in the system.  How much 
remains to be seen.  However, it will be legal - always.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
-


>>  there's no reason to disparage the KR2S and the improvements that have 
>> been gained in the twenty years since the "most recent" plans were 
>> published...unless you have some KR-2s you want to sell...
>>
>> Mark Langford
>
> You have a good point Mark, some improvements are good, and needed in some 
> things. There are people out there that will 100,000 plus for a legend 
> Cub, but you can find a good referb Cub or Super Cub and they could save a 
> ton of money.  I will never discourage a person on this net for wanting 
> the best for themselves.  I will also not discourage a person who wants to 
> build  a "stock KR".  The first big expense to build a KR is the wood. 
> Like I said I have projects for sale and it is not to make money.  The 
> sole purpose was to save projects from the fire pit, and to help people. 
> I guess my point is there are still people that would like to build a 
> stock KR and it would fit their needs.  I have a good example, there are 
> no piston engine powered Lancair Evolutions built or sold.  We have a 4P 
> customer who purchased the first one to be built.  My question is why 
> would you need a piston powered pressurized airplane?  Answer he does not 
> make long trips and does not need a turbine.!
>   My question what about resale.  Answer, he does not care.  This guy will 
> fly the wings off this plane.  The point I'm trying to make is there are 
> all kinds of people out there who want what they want.  I hope they can 
> get unbiased opinions and they can make a choice.
> On a lighter note my engine is ready to go on and I still need to fix my 
> VE cowl. I'm looking at making the gathering this year to take my 
> whippings.Period
>
 --
> 781 lbs! is that  not a bit on the heavy side? What do other planes
> "typically" come in at? The spread sheet on the net is a bit dated and not
> very complete. Not criticizing, just curious.
>
> Wayne
-- 
>>
> Empty weight is
> 781 pounds; FAA calculated gross is 1178 pounds for a useful load of 397
> pounds.
> With my tender body onboard the CG ranges from 12.4" full fuel to 11.2"
> Empty.
> Sid Wood
> >

KR> Weight & Balance

[smwood]

The FAA has a procedure where you put in "standard" pilot and passenger 
weights (170 pounds each), full fuel and max baggage on the weight and 
balance work sheet.  The total weight is then your max gross weight.  It is 
a calculated number.  You also have to show that the CG is in the allowable 
design range at that weight.  That procedure was required for a signed 
airworthiness certificate.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA


At 09:32 PM 5/21/2013, you wrote:
>FAA calculated gross is 1178 pounds for a useful load of 397 pounds.
+++

Sid,

Glad to hear you're making progress toward the next flight. Please
explain "FAA calculated gross". I set the gross on my KR and I don't
recall the FAA having anything to say about it.
I seem to recall setting my gross at 1300 pounds with normal flights
in the 1050 to 1100 pound range.

Larry Flesner 

KR> "backup" panel guages

[smwood]

Misled or not I cannot confirm or deny.  The Washington FSDO FAA inspector 
made it clear he would not sign off the airworthiness certificate if the 
"backup" gauges were not installed and properly calibrated.  I caused that 
to happen and he did sign.  I think that might be called the power of the 
pen.
And yes, I think the extra gauges in this case are in the belts and 
suspenders category, but that is the way it is now and forever more.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA


> --
>
>
> On 04/16/2013 02:05 PM, smwood wrote:
>> I had asked for day and night
>> VFR operations for the airworthiness inspection application.  Night VFR
>> is the item that required the backup gauges.
>
> There is no FAA requirement for backup gauges for VFR day or night
> flight.  There isn't even a requirement for backup gauges for IFR
> flight.  As long as you have at least one instrument giving the required
> information listed below, you are legal as far as the FAA is concerned.
> Your Washington FSDO FAA Inspector has misled you.
>
>
> http://www.ecfr.gov/cgi-bin/text-idx?c=ecfr=f470ae9f3f1654c16f93f5692a3dab03=div8=text=14:2.0.1.3.10.3.7.3=14
>
>
> Title 14: Aeronautics and Space
> PART 91?GENERAL OPERATING AND FLIGHT RULES
> Subpart C?Equipment, Instrument, and Certificate Requirements
> ? 91.205   Powered civil aircraft with standard category U.S.
> airworthiness certificates: Instrument and equipment requirements.
>
> (a) General. Except as provided in paragraphs (c)(3) and (e) of this
> section, no person may operate a powered civil aircraft with a standard
> category U.S. airworthiness certificate in any operation described in
> paragraphs (b) through (f) of this section unless that aircraft contains
> the instruments and equipment specified in those paragraphs (or
> FAA-approved equivalents) for that type of operation, and those
> instruments and items of equipment are in operable condition.
>
> (b) Visual-flight rules (day). For VFR flight during the day, the
> following instruments and equipment are required:
>
> (1) Airspeed indicator.
>
> (2) Altimeter.
>
> (3) Magnetic direction indicator.
>
> (4) Tachometer for each engine.
>
> (5) Oil pressure gauge for each engine using pressure system.
>
> (6) Temperature gauge for each liquid-cooled engine.
>
> (7) Oil temperature gauge for each air-cooled engine.
>
> (8) Manifold pressure gauge for each altitude engine.
>
> (9) Fuel gauge indicating the quantity of fuel in each tank.
>
> (10) Landing gear position indicator, if the aircraft has a retractable
> landing gear.
>
> (11) For small civil airplanes certificated after March 11, 1996, in
> accordance with part 23 of this chapter, an approved aviation red or
> aviation white anticollision light system. In the event of failure of
> any light of the anticollision light system, operation of the aircraft
> may continue to a location where repairs or replacement can be made.
>
> (12) If the aircraft is operated for hire over water and beyond
> power-off gliding distance from shore, approved flotation gear readily
> available to each occupant and, unless the aircraft is operating under
> part 121 of this subchapter, at least one pyrotechnic signaling device.
> As used in this section, ?shore? means that area of the land adjacent to
> the water which is above the high water mark and excludes land areas
> which are intermittently under water.
>
> (13) An approved safety belt with an approved metal-to-metal latching
> device for each occupant 2 years of age or older.
>
> (14) For small civil airplanes manufactured after July 18, 1978, an
> approved shoulder harness for each front seat. The shoulder harness must
> be designed to protect the occupant from serious head injury when the
> occupant experiences the ultimate inertia forces specified in ?
> 23.561(b)(2) of this chapter. Each shoulder harness installed at a
> flight crewmember station must permit the crewmember, when seated and
> with the safety belt and shoulder harness fastened, to perform all
> functions necessary for flight operations. For purposes of this paragraph?
>
> (i) The date of manufacture of an airplane is the date the inspection
> acceptance records reflect that the airplane is complete and meets the
> FAA-approved type design data; and
>
> (ii) A front seat is a seat located at a flight crewmember station or
> any seat located alongside such a seat.
>
> (15) An emergency locator transmitter, if required by ? 91.207.
>
> (16) For normal, utility, and acrobatic category airplanes with a
> seating configuration, excluding pilot seats, of 9 or less, manufactured
> afte

KR> "backup" panel guages?

[smwood]

The Washington FSDO FAA Inspector that did my airworthiness inspection 
required me to install a mechanical airspeed indicator and a mechanical 
magnetic compass before the inspection.  I had asked for day and night VFR 
operations for the airworthiness inspection application.  Night VFR is the 
item that required the backup gauges.  Primary is a Dynon D10A with four (4) 
electrical power sources.  So, now I have two airspeeds and three magnetic 
compasses in my airplane.  Belts and suspenders.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
--
>
> Larry Flesner wrote:
>
>>When considering the entire panel at once it looks a bit challenging.
> Break it down to the three >things you need for a safe flight, aviate,
> navigate, communicate...
>
> Larry,
>
> All decisions have been made, the panel is designed, all components and
> materials are on hand, and I'm cutting it out and wiring it shortly.  With
> 1130 hours in N56ML with a similar panel, I have a pretty good idea of how
> I'd like it.  No further thought required...
>
> Mark Langford
> ML at N56ML.com
> see experimental N56ML at www.N56ML.com
>

KR> Glass cloth shelf life

[smwood]

The glass in fiberglass cloth does not have a shelf life.  The glass is 
inorganic.  The sizing coating on the glass strands is an organic compound 
and has a definite shelf life.
I use to teach this fiber glass stuff for the EAA Sport Air Workshops and 
still do at AirVenture.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA

---
> Sid said  - Fiber glass cloth has a sizing coating on each strand to help
> the epoxy
> resin to bond to the glass. The shelf life for most fiber glass sizing is
> five years. After that time the wetting out with the resin becomes more
> difficult and will result in a weaker structure. The older the cloth the
> worse the situation will be.
>
> I posted this question to the group some time ago and was told that there 
> is
> no end shelf life on fiber glass cloth. Would someone in the industry, (If
> there is someone in the group), please check in and clear this up.
>
> Patrick Driscoll
> Saint Paul, MN
> patrick36 at usfamily.net
> www.pensbypat.com
> If you can read this, Thank a teacher
> If you are reading this in English, thank a veteran
>
> 

KR> Pre-Flight Preparations

[smwood]

So far have 2.8 hours on the Hobbs for ground runs.
Fixed the alternator: loose spade lug on the regulator field spade; squeezed 
the lug just a little tighter and re-installed.
Fixed the connector on #4 spark plug wire:  Poor crimp from the factory did not 
grip the outer insulation at the spark plug end.  The wire fell off while the 
connector held onto the plug terminal.  Re-worked the crimp connection.  The 
wire was a little long anyway.
Calibrated the Grand Rapids Technologies EIS for tach RPM.  The GRT 4000 was 
set on the factory default setting of "0".  That means the GRT was using a 
scale of 1.5 pulses per revolution instead of 2 pulses per rev.  My tach 
checker and the EIS read within 10 RPM at all engine speeds now.  The 
alternator now charges the battery above about 1600 RPM.  
The reason I could not tell the difference between 3-cylinder and 4-cylinder 
operation is: The 2180 VW was running on 3 cylinders from the first start up on 
my airplane.  Now I know what a smooth running engine I really have.  
Full throttle static RPM facing a 5-knot breeze is 3080 with a 52 x 52 prop and 
no cowl.  Maybe that static number will go up a little with the cowl installed.
Rudder-only steering starts to become effective at about 10 knots.  Definitely 
need lots of left rudder when moving at full throttle.  At 40 knots this 
machine is just about ready to put air under the mains.  Wonder how ready the 
pilot is?

Getting closer.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA

KR> Re: Diehl Nose Gear Spacer

[smwood]

Try contacting Dan Diehl at 918-299-4445 or email at d...@diehlaero.com
http://diehlaero.com/

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

From: Chris corbine 
Netters,

There is a spacer (thick washer) that goes between the pivot and the tire 
yoke. Could someone please give me the dimensions of this spacer? I am 
primarily concerned with the thickness any other information would be 
greatly appreciated.

Thank You,
Chris Corbine
N5834-Porkopolis

KR> Max Fuel Flow Test

[smwood]

Here are two pictures for a max fuel flow test to determine if the fuel 
system can deliver at least 150% fuel flow to the engine during worst case 
conditions of 14 degrees angle of attack, full throttle and minimum fuel in 
the operating tank.  My FAA inspector mandated criteria is to bleed off 50% 
more fuel than the engine is burning and still maintain full throttle RPM. 
And yes, N6242 supplied 350%.
Question: Has any or everyone else did or had to do this max flow test?

First picture is testing the Facet electric pump alone.  Second picture is 
to test engine driven mechanical pump alone.
https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/20469958474effc9269e823.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/13515213244effc989701f2.jpg

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

KR> Fuel Flow Test

[smwood]

Here is a YouTube video (thanks to Bernie Wunder) of the fuel flow test on 
12/30/11 after replacing the mechanical VW fuel pump and installing a check 
valve to permit the Facet electric pump to prime the mechanical pump and 
perform as a back-up fuel pump.  I also fixed the oil leaks at the valve 
covers.  Got the oil temp up to 160 F.  Now I have to fix the oil leaks at 
the oil filter bracket fittings.  Mark Jones, I now know how you feel about 
that.
Just listen to the music... 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3YqYaJViIFM=youtu.be
After warm-up we made a tail dragger of it to test fuel flow at max angle of 
attack, full throttle and min fuel.  Either pump delivers 21 to 23 gallons 
per hour; I would never have believed those skinny 1/4-inch and 3/8-inch 
hoses could deliver that rate at less than 5 psi.  That should satisfy the 
Feds.  Both pumps are each rated for 30 gallons per hour free-flow.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

KR> KR-2 Photo

[smwood]

Here is a photo taken by Bernie Wunder of my KR-2, newly arrived at St. 
Mary's County Airport 2W6, for the FAA airworthiness inspection application. 
The graphics were produced by Wayne's Signs.
http://waynessigns.com/gallery/index.php?page=1=VehicleLettering
Fixing mechanical fuel pump problems and valve cover leaks, but first flight 
is getting close.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

KR> Re:Aluminum Protection

[smwood]

For aluminum protection: Watch the EAA Hints for Homebuilders video and do 
what Brian Carpenter says.  It works!
http://www.eaavideo.org/channel.aspx?ch=ch_hints

Anodize is the best (and pricey) aluminum treatment, but next best is 
alodine and doable by anyone right on your work bench at home.
Zinc chromate is a good primer for a finish coat of a spray paint, but next 
to worthless for aluminum metal protection.  Powder coat is a great looking 
finish and will provide excellent protection as long as the surface does not 
crack or get scratched to the bare metal.  Corrosion can then happily eat 
away under the best looking part and you will not know it until the paint 
can no longer support the load that the metal used to carry.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net


I'd also appreciate any specific suggestions for aluminum protection.
 From Sonex builders' sites I seem to remember there's a zinc chromate
(?) spray that people use.  What do you think is best?

Thanks for any suggestions...

Seth

KR> Re: KR-2 Fuse at the EAA Woodworking Workshop

[smwood]

Rich,
I trailered my KR-2 fuselage to the EAA Woodworking Workshop in 1994 to 
demonstrate installation of the Diehl wingskin kit.  We did not finish the 
wings that week, but did get a pretty good start.  My snail's pace 
construction was greatly speeded up that week.
I was also convinced that week to convert to the fixed tri-gear.

I work with Mark Forss at AirVenture in the Composites Workshop every year. 
Highly recommend the volunteer experience at Oshkosh.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

-
Hi folks,

I had a chat yesterday with EAA's Mark Forss. He is the gentleman who 
coordinates the traveling road show that is EAA's SportAir Workshops. They 
came to near-by Columbus, Ohio in late October. The timing and proximity 
could hardly be better so I took in the composites workshop taught by Mark 
Forss himself.

Recently, while looking through KRNet's archives I discovered an article 
from the Oct. 1975 Sport Aviation about the woodworking workshop at 
Airventure turning out a KR-2 fuse and most of a horizontal stab by weeks 
end. I had been wanting to fire off a note of thanks to Mark for such a well 
done effort on the October workshop when the thought occurred to me that it 
sure would be nice if a KR-2S fuse build were the focus of a workshop coming 
back to a future Oshkosh Airventure workshop.

Now many of you are probably well past needing something like this, but I'm 
sure some of us would be greatly benefited and that would be a great way to 
draw attention to the KR in an audience of likely builders.

Mark tells me that there are several woodworking projects being considered 
for upcoming Osh workshops and though the KR-2S wasn't one of them, he'd see 
that it was "thrown in the hat".

Mark's email addy is mfo...@eaa.org and I bet it would "ramp up the 
momentum" if others among us fired off a note to him supporting the idea. 
Just a thought.

Thanks,

Rich

KR> First Engine Run

[smwood]

Today, December 13, 2011, I ran the engine on my KR-2 for the first time.  I 
set the choke full on, mixture about mid-range and throttle open a little. 
Air temp was 45 degrees F.  The 2180 VW fired up on the third blade through 
and ran strong.  The VW from Great Plains ASC had only been sitting in the 
crate or on the firewall for nearly 5 years.  Every two weeks I had hand 
turned the crank through 30 turns and changed the oil every year, just like 
the real museums are supposed to do.  The "used" oil went into my lawn 
mower.
My ground safety crew, Bernie Wunder, signaled an early shut down due to all 
the smoke.  First glance looked like the engine was on fire; had enough 
smoke for an aerobatic air show act.  I never saw it because all the smoke 
was blowing back under the belly.  No sight or smell in the cockpit; the 
firewall was doing its job real good.  Turns out the valve rocker covers 
were leaking both sides and dripping oil on the hot exhaust pipes.  What a 
mess!  Got to fix those gaskets.

When it comes to safety: They too serve who only watch and wait.  Thank you 
Bernie.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

KR> Re: Air Fuel Ratio

[smwood]

Stephen,
The fully programmable ignition system may need some help to set the 
mixture.  A simpler way is to install an Oxygen sensor in the exhaust system 
to feed a Mixture Meter aka Air/Fuel Ratio (AFR).  Then you can set the 
mixture exactly to what you want it to be in real time while flying for any 
power setting and any altitude.  (Assuming you do have a manual mixture 
control somewhere in the fuel system.)  No more waiting to see which 
cylinder peaks first and other such antiquated methods.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

--
...I have just decided to break from my original edict and purchase a fully 
programmable ignition system instead of keeping everything stock. This will 
allow me to program my A/F ratio and ignition advance or retard at any RPM , 
any boost, and any load. Something a modern "certified" aircraft engine 
could never hope to do.
But weather I make 1 hours or not even 10, people believe what they 
want, and that is just the way it is. So if you think you can do it better 
and or different then get after it. Change will happen.

Stephen Teate
Paradise, Texas

Stephen Teate
Paradise, Texas

KR> Re: Prop (flight adjustable)

[smwood]

An in flight adjustable prop is something like an automatic transmission in 
a car.  You can better match the takeoff, climb and cruise performance for 
your engine and airframe.  It works great on a 215 horsepower T-34B. 
However, a KR-2S application may be somewhat unknown.
Down side is the increased weight and complexity plus there is another 
control to properly use.  You can also easily destroy an engine with 
improper use of the prop pitch control.  Some engines, such as the direct 
drive VW, will not long tolerate the heavier weight and gyro loading of a 
controllable pitch prop trying to break the crank shaft.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

---
What is your experiance about the in flight adjustible prop?
Is it wirth the weight and money? Or should I buy next year(S) a ground 
adjustible 3 blade. I planned a 95 HP engine.
Stef

Stef and Ted are building the KR-2S see 
http://www.masttotaalconcept.nl/kr2

KR> Re: Diehl Wing skins

[smwood]

Russ,
The Diehl plans call for putting the bottom skin on first then put on the 
top skins.  Before you do the top skin, put in the inspection ports in the 
bottom skins.  That's a lot easier to do at that stage.  If you are careful 
in cutting out the holes, you can use the cutout piece as a cover plate for 
the inspection hole.  I used a Dremel tool with tiny router bit and a router 
adapter taped to a hole cutting guide.  Lowes has all the parts.
You will need inspection holes big enough to get one hand and arm through. 
Put them everywhere there is a nut or bolt head or vent pipe for a fuel 
cell.  I have 26 openings on the bottom of my wings and everyone has a 
needed purpose.
Don't worry over the exact dimension of the airfoil shape of the ribs.  When 
you get them glued between the spars, you will have to cut them down as much 
as 1/4-inch to allow for the varying thickness of the Diehl skins.  Then you 
use lots of VE flox to fill the gaps.  When the top skin goes on, you can 
reach in through the inspection ports and make sure the flox is 
finger-filleted in all the joints.  That is especially important to close 
leaks on the blind side of the fuel cells.  (Been there, done that.)
You vary the gel time for the vinylester by adjusting the amount of catalyst 
you use.  The higher the temperature the faster it goes off.  The 
instruction ratio calls for 4 cc catalyst to 8 oz resin.  You can use 1 cc 
per 8 oz and it still works ok.  Do use a calibrated syringe for the 
catalyst.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

--
Hi Russ,
 I used Dan's skins on my KR2 some years ago and was fortunate in having
met Dan at a gathering. I think I was the first to use them in the UK ,and
had no problems except that the rib cut out markings didn't correspond
somehow .
 I contacted Dan and he reassured me that my markings were not
accurate ( it was in the '90's and I've forgotten how exactly-but I'll look
up my notes if you can't get better advice).
 One thing I do remember is how fast vinylester goes off , so you have to
get a reliable pal and rehearse the procedure.
  I also had to open inspection panels in the lower skins to satisfy our
inspection authorities who would reinvent the wheel if it hadn't been made
in Birmingham!

Cheers,   Mac  ex  KR2 G-BVZJ
On Mon, Nov 21, 2011 at 3:41 PM, Russell Barmett  wrote:

>
> Is there anyone that is getting ready to do Diehl wing skins on thier
> KR?
> I have a stock KR and will be attempting to do the wing skins soon. I have
> already modified the spar to the 4-15/16" at the outboard end. I purchased
> the skins and ribs from a builder a lot of years ago and the ribs were
> already cut from the sheet.
> However how do i verify that the ribs are correct and as accurate as they
> need to be? What is the spacing for the ribs?  and i need some information
> on the spar extension.
>I would be willing to help anyone that is getting ready to do this in
> my area
> I am in SW MO.
>My goal is to fly to MVN Sept 2012
>
>Forgive me if i make a mistake on the KRlist ( I am computer 
> challanged)
>
>Thanks in advance for the help.
>
> Russ Barnett
> rbarn...@ipa.net
> N8227
>

KR> KR-2 Rollout

[smwood]

Today November 19, 2011, I transported my KR-2, N6242, from my home shop to 
2W6 St. Mary's County Airport, its new home.  Had one minor hangar rash on 
the rudder that needs fixing.  I have seen worse that were still flying 
around.
Highly recommend getting one or two or three knowledgeable helpers to 
expedite moving.
Need to put the wings back on and pimp for the FAA inspection.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

KR> Re: KR2 spars

[smwood]

The Lancair 320/360 and the Pulsar XP have all composite construction, fuel 
in the wings and removable wings.  The Lancair wing spars are attached with 
only two bolts for both wings at the two common attachment points inside the 
fuselage.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

--
Hi Dave

Many thanks the reply. I am well familiar with the KR2 Super and its 
website, have been studying it since February of this year as well as many 
other KR builders sites.

I like the KR2Super very much and building with composites is no problem for 
me - been doing for about ten years for model RC planes ( a different story 
but composites are not new to me). As usual one sets out with a plan and a 
list of desires which normally are not fulfilled in every way by existing 
designs - in other words one tends to like different things about different 
designs but never finds the "ultimate solution". So I want a two seat, side 
by side and homebuilt from plans. It would be great if it could fit into LSA 
limits (again a wishful thought). That led me to KR and the KR2S. Further 
research led me to alternative materials due to wood availability in my 
country. I found the KR Super and got excited.

Trouble for me though is I want the original wing design with WAF's, fixed 
undercarriage, fuel tanks in the stub wings and I want to put it onto a 
trailer to take home in winter and save storage cost for fuel! Scott's KR2 
Super does not allow for this with his spar design. I also like the way Mark 
has rebuilt his wings - from the fotos it is a far simpler construction the 
the Supers but he used "beefed up" woodens spars.

I also find nothing difficult/complicated about the Supers spar design - 
website has excellent instructions, very good foto's and if followed 
correctly and taking care with the layups and methods an easy part to make.

I am by no means a designer and would be lying if I said I understood half 
the technical discussion on spar design so was hoping to compare what I have 
found out and worked with to someone else who may be more familiar with the 
design aspects of a spar.

So back to my original question/query - has anyone designed alternative 
composite wing spars using the original WAF's mountings design idea?

thanks again

Greg
--

KR> Re: KR-2 Spars

[smwood]

Bill Clapp had formed a company to produce an all fiberglass version of the 
KR-2.  He had exhibited the fuselage at AirVenture two years ago.  Don't 
know if he got any orders.  We made a bet as to who would get their creation 
flying first: Bill or me.  I could not find Bill at AirVenture 2011.  Have 
not heard from Bill lately, so don't know who is winning the bet.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net
-
Greg,

I'm building a KR Super2 which is an all composite derivative of the KR2S.
The main spar has a core of 1/2 inch last-a-foam sandwiched with multiple
layers of fiberglass and has spar caps of carbon-fiber rod.  The
construction is complicated and goes very slowly.  It is strong but only 1
inch thick so replacing the wood KR2S box structure wouldn't be easy and
mounting the landing gear would also require much work.  So, I believe you'd
be much better off building the spar per KR2 plans.  If you like to learn
more about building the KR Super2  go to www.krsuper2.com

Dave McCauley
--
Subject: KR> KR2 spars

Has anyone designed composite spars to replace the wooden style spars used
in the KR series? Maintaining the same design idea, outboard spars
connecting to main spar with the WAF's, but using the modern composite
materials.
___

KR> Re: Tri-gear Conversion

[smwood]

Dave,
I converted N6242 from a conventional retract gear to fixed tri-gear using 
Diehl fixed mains and nose gear.  The large holes in the wing in front of 
the spar were converted to inspection panels; very useful.  The large holes 
aft of the spar were mostly closed in with foam and glass lay-up.  You are 
correct: After fill, sanding and paint, the cover up is invisible.
If you use the RR spring gear, the RR gear legs may be to short to match the 
nose gear height and steering geometry.  The RR spring bar would need to be 
absolutely latched in the down and locked position; you may not have room 
under the seat for that setup.  The RR gear legs are HUGE flat plates 
hanging out in the air stream; sort of a speed brake permanently deployed. 
You will have much difficulty fairing around those wiggly gear legs.  On 
most retract KR-2 there is an aileron control cable running through the area 
aft of the main spar.  You will need to re-route the cable or use more 
modern control linkages.  If you have a spring bar aft of the spar, where 
are you going to mount the stick?

Highly recommend you use the Diehl or similar fixed main gear.  Fairings are 
also available.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

--
The aircraft was issued it's N-Number (N86KR) in 1986, and is in need of
3 things, it seems - wing pins, some avionics replacement, and
conversion to tri-gear (personal preference).

The pins can be bought from NVAero from what I understand, I've got the
avionics I plan to install back home - those are the 'easy' jobs..

The tri-gear conversion seems the most difficult, and has been the
subject of much thought & online research, resulting in the following
plan (which I'm seeking comments/advice on)

1) Components would be the original KR2 spring-bar mains, and the Diehl
nose gear kit as sold by NVAero.

2) The 'objective' is to convert the plane from taildragger to tri-gear
'in-place', prior to ferrying it from where it is now to my home state.

3) From what I've read here and online, the largest block of time (and
largest requirement for jigs/tools/space/etc) in doing this work is the
post-conversion re-assembly - which generally is done by flipping the
plane and re-glassing the area cut open to gain access to the spar/gear.

What I have come up with, is a *possible* process to accomplish this
conversion without flipping the plane, by raising it up on jacks,
cutting away a rectangular patch of skin (and saving it in-tact for
later) to create access to the mains. At this point, the gear could be
'flipped' from the front of the spar to the back, and then the
rectangular patch would be re-attached with doublers around the edges
(inside the stub wings, not out in the airstream) and Hysol 9309.3
(microbead structural adhesive) for an adhesive and gap filler. Properly
done (eg, keeping the patch sucked up tight to the plane while the Hysol
cures) it should be just about as strong as the original structure, and
once sanded & painted, invisible...

Now, I'm not familliar with the specifics of the KR2 design yet (this is
a mix of army helo repair techniques, online research, and so on),
beyond what I can read online. Apart from a small bit of added weight
(from 4 doubler strips and the 9309), do you guys see any issues with
this plan? Is it going to create issues with the structure of the
stub-wings? Am I going to have trouble cutting out the 'access patch'
and separating the glass skin from the rest of the structure (Say, due
to the skin being adhered to foam & wood structure, making intact
removal of a cut-out section impossible)

I'm submitting this for comment, because you guys know alot more about
these planes than I do at this point... For all I know, there is a very
good reason why everyone flips the plane & does it the 'conventional'
way - or maybe it's just that's the way that always comes to mind... I
just started from 'assume you cannot flip the bird, what would you do to
fix a hole in the bottom (that conveniently happens to expose the spar &
landing gear)...

KR> Re: VW 2180 headbolt torque and annual suggestions

[smwood]

Anyway, it would seem to me that after all these years that there would have 
been something that has been done to keep the heads on a VW motor torqued 
down. Better studs or fasteners ? Loc tite ??? Is there are new torque spec 
for a 2180 vs what the book calls for when it was a 1600 ?

I know I am rambling a bit but as I go through my annual checklist I am just 
thinking, and wondering if anyone out there has come up with some 
improvements thoughts and ideas to share.

Jeff York
KR-2


--

Bolts stretch under tension.  When heated under tension, they not only get 
longer but will relax to a longer length when they are cool.  The longer the 
bolt, the more stretch you get.  That is the way most metals, including 
steel, work.  If you go beyond elastic limits, it's time for new bolts.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

KR> Re: Wingspan

[smwood]

The wingspan on my KR-2 is 23 feet 3 inches using the Diehl plans and wing 
skin kit.  My weight and balance has a max useful load of 528 pounds and 
still remains within stable loading.  I have seen many KR-2 aircraft flying 
for years with the Diehl wing skin mod that uses the RAF48 airfoil.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

-

Ask Navaro sp.RR said do not extend the wings on the KR-2, Virg

On 10/10/2011 6:51 PM, Craig Williams wrote:
> I have been reading in the archives about the RAF48 wing span and loading. 
> I see that Garry Morgan's KR2SS had
> a span of 27 feet.  Was wondering if anyone stateside had gone this big. 
> The reason I ask is I think to get the
> useful load for my 250lb frame I need to up the wing span to 27 feet.  I 
> would do this by adding 36 inches
> to the stub wings.
>
> Craig
> www,kr2seafury.com
>

KR> Re: EIS Thermocouple Wiring

[smwood]

Joe,
Yes, GRT does have ready-made connector terminations for their EGT and CHT 
sensors.  They use a 20-ton press with a $6,000 tool head to crimp the pins 
onto the thermocouple wires.  When I bought my EIS 4000, they  did not have 
that option available.  I don't have access to that tooling.  I just have 
the hand-operated ratchet crimper.  The wires, I have now, do not have any 
terminations on them.  So, I am doing a work around to hookup what I have 
now.  I am going with the European barrier strips from Radio Shack to 
terminate the thermocouple wires at the instrument panel, then use copper 
wire to the D-sub connector.  I will twist the wire pairs to help cut down 
on radio frequency interference to the high impedance EIS 4000 front end. 
Galvanometers are somewhat immune from rfi.

Solder on copper wires and brass works fine.  Solder on iron and constantan 
connections does create a thermocouple that will mess with the calibration 
for the factory thermocouple.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net
--
Guys,I am totally confused. I thought that the thermal couples that i 
received from GRT (i.e. exhaust and head temp) were premade with ends 
installed - They are not to be cut or modified in any way. The kit includes 
extra terminals to cut and terminate the wires from the instrument to the 
correct install length and then connect to the thermal couple wire. Why are 
we talking about terminating the thermal couple wires, What did i miss?Joe 
Horton,Coopersburg, PA.

-- Forwarded Message -
On 10/5/2011 8:46 AM, smwood wrote:
> Solder does not stick to well on them and even
> if you did solder the pins, you create a dissimilar metal joint that 
> messes
> with the thermocouple calibration
Soldering does not create a dissimilar metal connection as such, but
creates an alloy at the junction of the two metals, which provides a
reliable conductive path. I have a hard time believing that the
calibration error introduced by this junction would be anywhere near
the  error introduced by the galvanometer (meter movement) it is
normally displayed on (considering that there are solder joints along
the meter path INSIDE the unit). What is the accuracy of the
thermocouple itself, 2-5%? Perhaps less accurate?

-- 
Glenn Martin
Biloxi, MS

KR> Re: paint scheme

[smwood]

I painted my KR-2 plain white and put on vinyl self-stick from a sign shop 
with a red, white and blue flag bunting theme.  The sign shop had every 
color, print, picture and scheme you could ever imagine.  My hangar partner 
is planning to re-paint his Pulsar XP and do an entire airplane wrap with 
the vinyl stick-on material.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

---

>I need to pick out a paint scheme, where can I find lots and lots!!!
>pictures of completed kr2 planes? Thanks! :)
++

Go to  www.krgathering.org and scroll down to pictures of the
Gathering or go to www.krnet.org and scroll down to "completed KR's"
and you'll find hundreds of photos.

Larry Flesner

KR> Re: EIS Thermocouple Wiring

[smwood]

The GRT thermocouple wires are iron and constantan.  There are no 
terminations on the wires.  Solder does not stick to well on them and even 
if you did solder the pins, you create a dissimilar metal joint that messes 
with the thermocouple calibration.  With a little luck you can also create a 
corrosion problem at the pins, not pretty.
I went to the Omega Instruments site.  This is a large outfit that 
specializes in industrial instrumentation, especially thermocouples.  All of 
their connections for thermocouple wires use tin coated screw-type clamps. 
One page even has step by step how to.  If it works for Omega, I could copy 
their system.  I found a European style barrier strip at Radio Shack that 
has tin coated screw contacts for bare wire connection.  These barrier 
strips have electrical isolation and are made for high vibration 
environments found on aircraft.  The plan is to terminate the thermocouple 
wires at the barrier strip and then run copper wires to the DP-25 connector. 
I will let you know in a few days how the Radio Shack barrier strips work 
out.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smwood@md,metrocast.net
---
If the thermocouples are like the ones from Westach, with the little male
pin on the end.  Get some of the female pins and make you a connector with
whatever size wire you like and run that wire into the 25-pin connector.
Westach can supply the female pin ends.  This is very easy to do.

Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC

--

I've done alot of wiring of small pins for the lighting system on a friends 
plane and found that the best thing is always to solder the pin connections 
no matter how good you think the crimp is. With a good iron it takes only 
moments to do and will keep the wires in place. If you are using a DB25 
connector (looks like a computer cable) those come as a unit which you 
solder together and then screw on the strain relief w/o crimping.

GT

KR> EIS Thermocouple Wiring

[smwood]

How can I get the CHT and EGT wires crimped to the 25-pin connector pin for 
the GRT EIS 4000?  I have the 4-point ratchet crimper for these pins.  The 
hard thermocouple wires (Iron and Constantine?) apparently will not deform 
enough to get a reliable crimp.  The crimped pin falls off with the 
slightest wiggle, much less a NASA pull test.  Copper wire crimping works 
every.  GRT tech support are no help.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

KR> Re: Actual work on a KR

[smwood]

I talked with the Dulles FSDO inspector regarding getting an airworthiness 
inspection.  He said I needed to do a flow test to determine if my fuel 
system could deliver 150% fuel at full throttle, low fuel and max climb 
angle.  How to do that with an engine-driven fuel pump has been a mystery. 
The KRnet has been most helpful with suggestions.
My hangar partner had removed the Grand Rapids fuel flow sensor from his 
Pulsar XP.  The aircraft has a Rotex 912 with dual altitude-compensating 
carburetors with fuel return to the fuel tank.  The fuel flow sensor was not 
suitable for his installation, so he gave it to me.  I am now installing the 
fuel flow sensor in my KR-2 2180 VW to plug into my Grand Rapids EIS.  This 
will be a permanent installation.
I am also temporarily installing a "T" in the fuel line at the carburetor. 
An 8-foot fuel hose runs from the "T" to a valve.  This allows dumping fuel 
in a can in addition to supplying fuel to the engine for the full Power run 
up.  My assistant can then adjust the valve to get 150% flow through the 
system, while I monitor the fuel flow numbers from the cockpit display.  The 
2180 VW is limited to 2 minutes full throttle operation at sea level and low 
altitudes.  That should be sufficient time to do the actual test and prove 
the carb has not run out of fuel.  Have to test each of the 2 wing tanks in 
the fuel system.
I will remove the "T" and extra fuel line to return to normal operations.
First flight and Gathering 2012 are on the horizon.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

-
Netters,

As I sit reading another E-mail about putting a Jabiru on a KR, I thought 
that I should give you an update on my progress of getting to the next 
gathering.  The situation that I am in right now is like a puzzle.  I have a 
plane in my garage, not a KR, an Ultra PUP.  That is another story.  Prior 
to going to the Gathering, I was helping a fellow EAA member and KR owner do 
some repairs. He purchased an older KR tri gear that needed some minor 
repairs.  That was 2 years ago.  He asked me to help him with some of the 
repairs, glass work on the cowl, cracks on the canopy frame and cracks in 
the paint on the wings as well as some bubbles on the wings.  When I decided 
to go to the gathering, I called him and said that I would be able to help 
him, duh!! he offered some money for the fixes and me going to the 
gathering ,well it was a win win.  I got the cowl fixes done as well as 
the canopy frame and I primed and pained them prior to the gathering.  Since 
I got back I have been working on the wings, and let me say if you are going 
to use BONDO as a filler.dont.  It will crack.  If you do, spend the 
extra money and get the good stuff.  Wal-Mart does not sell the good stuff. 
What I thought were going to be easy fixes, could have been if I did not not 
like the person that I was doing the work for.  Several grinding disks 
later, and some micro filler later, the fixes were ready for the good body 
work.  I should have the wings in primer this weekend and ready for paint. 
I found out today I need to help a family member move and will lnot be able 
to get the paint on this weekend.  I will find a night this comming week to 
get it done.
With that said, I can focus on the plane in the garage and get a coat of 
paint on it and get it to the airport.  Snakebite will then have all of my 
attention.  I would like to have it back in the air before the new year.

OK  lets hear the progress stories.

Lee Van Dyke

--End of KRnet Digest, Vol 353, Issue 268
***

KR> Re: 40 KR's at 2012 Gathering

[smwood]

Lee,
N6242 will be there for the 2012 Gathering.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

 --

In response to my iPhone post regarding helping Bob Glidden with 'Mouse 
Trap' and his commitment to fly 'Mouse Trap' to next year's gathering, I
had an epiphany.  While on my commercial flight home from IN, I was thinking 
of what needed to be done to realize the goal of 40 KR's at the 2012 
gathering.  I am personally committing to assisting those within my circle 
of influence realize their goals with their planes and realizing the greater 
goal of 40 planes at the gathering.  If those of us with the knowledge and 
experience share with others who may need the extra help or encouragement, I 
believe we can achieve this goal.

I am helping a comrade with a few things he needs to accomplish to get his 
craft to the Copper State Fly in next month, he has already committed to 
attending next year's gathering.

With Bob Glidden, my 'comrade' Marty Skalon, and myself, that's 3 committed 
so far.  Would love to see whoever purchases Charlie's plane fly that in. 
Richard Seifert and Richard Shirley could both be pursuaded to attend by 
Steve Glover.  That's potentially 7 KR's... 33 more to go...
Who's with me??  What can we all do to assist our fellow KR enthusiasts??

I live in sunny AZ... I work for a composites company... I have two spare 
bedrooms at my house and access to a hangar.  I would be willing to
assist anyone who needs help with their project.  You could stay in my home 
for a limited time until my wife kicks your scraggly ass out.

It was brought to my attention that someone may be looking for a boat stage 
project.  I currently have two for sale in great condition.  Both have
wing spars and one has a set of Diehl wing skins. Both are on gear.

Anyone wanting to contact me concerning this email and my projects for sale, 
please contact me off net.

Lee Van Dyke
Snakebite 420LV
480-694-8846

KR> Re: Manifold Pressure

[smwood]

Pete,
You need to tap the manifold pressure sensing down stream from the 
carburetor and before the air-fuel stream splits before going to the left 
and right cylinders.  I welded a pipe bung to the outside wall of the steel 
intake pipe, then drilled a #60 hole in the intake pipe to get access.  Make 
sure there are no burrs or shavings in the pipe.   After all the welding and 
drilling, I had the steel pipes ceramic coated at Jet Hot.  Fittings are NPT 
and flexible hose to the actual sensor.  Pete Bengalis recommends a very 
small hole in the intake manifold pipe in case the flex hose or some other 
component fails; this will allow the engine to continue running.  The small 
hole also helps to even out pulsations going to the sensor for smoother 
readings.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

-
 I am installing a manifold pressure gage and would like some suggestions 
for locating the source.  I have the HAPI intake ducts with an aerocarb.  I 
am considering welding (or brazing) a half couple to the intake tubing but 
where?

Thanks,

Pete Gauthier
Woodburn OR

KR> Re: VW dip stick

[smwood]

Jim Faughn showed me his dipstick on his 2180 VW at the Gathering a few 
years ago.  He had cut the lower end off the dip stick and then riveted a 
piece of nylon zip tie to the bottom.  He had hundreds of hours on the nylon 
zip tie in the engine oil with no problems.  The flex nylon allowed Jim to 
check the oil reaching through the engine cooling air inlet.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net


--
I have a HAPI 1835 with a Rand Cowl.  The dip stick is easily accessible 
through the air intake but it cannot be removed without removing the top of 
the cowl.  How do those that are flying VW access the dip stick.  do you 
Modify the dipstick, cut a door in the cowl, remove the cowl?  Any adverse 
affects from cutting the dip stick tube?

Thanks,

Pete Gauthier
Woodburn OR

KR> Re: Mixture Meter Presentation

[smwood]

Netters,
Belay my last post.  Mark Langford is putting the Mixture Meter presentation 
on the KRnet website for all to access.  It may take a short time to Get r 
done.
Thanks Mark.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

KR> Mixture Meter Presentation 2011

[smwood]

I had planned to present the Mixture Meter forum at the Gathering.  This is 
similar to the presentations I have done at Oshkosh and at the Gathering for 
the last two years.  I have updated the presentation with new sources for 
the equipment and new technology.  These systems are steadily changing and 
improving as vendors scramble to get market share.  I do not sell anything 
mentioned in the presentation.  I just want KR builders and pilots to get 
the best performance possible.
I will be unable to attend the Gathering this year.  Larry Flesner advised 
me to put this on the KRnet.  So, if you send me an email, I will send you a 
copy of my PowerPoint presentation.  It's free and I shall not share your 
email address with anyone.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

KR> Re: rain water on my fusalage floor

[smwood]

I need some advice on how to take care of rain water on my fuslage floor. I 
purchased John Godwins KR2S project in South Carolina last Wednesday and had 
to travel back to New York through the hurricane rain storms. Unfortunataely 
i took on some rain water last night driving through Pensylvania. I 
immediately soaked up the little bit of standing water close to the spruce 
cross members.I think air drying it will be best. I think if i blow dry it 
with a heat gun it might warp and delaminate. any suggestions appreciated, 
Joe


Same thing happened to me a few years ago.  Wound up with about 5/8" of 
water in each bay on the fuselage floor.  Prior to that I had painted the 
inside of the fuselage with thinned epoxy.  So, I was able to mop up the 
water with a sponge and rags.  The outside plywood had not been painted. 
The bare mahogany showed some water stain but no warpage after air drying. 
The aircraft grade plywood has waterproof glue.  Most epoxy glues are also 
waterproof, but the uncoated lumber can soak up the water and cause issues 
with uneven expansion and then contraction when it dries out.
Use great care with the heat gun: you might overheat the glue joints and 
soften the epoxy.  That could do more damage than water soaking.  Recommend 
you wipe up the visible water soon as possible.  Then air dry with with lots 
of ventilation with a fan or two.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

KR> Re: Horton in EAA Experimenter

[smwood]

Joe, nice write up on repairs and rework on your KR. 
http://www.eaa.org/experimenter/articles/2011-08_winter.asp  Definitely keep 
auto fuel out of your fuel system.
The deposits in your fuel system and perhaps along with some stickiness on 
the throttle were residue from the Ethanol in the auto fuel dissolving the 
epoxy in your fuel tanks.  Refiners also put Butane in their winter gasoline 
to aid cold weather operation.  The Butane will also dissolve epoxy.  Teflon 
is a relatively soft material; Ethanol and Butane will make Teflon even 
softer.

Fuel tanks constructed with Vinyl Ester resin are Butane and Ethanol proof.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

KR> Resorcinol Glue

[smwood]

Up date on the KR-2 boat:
I had a KR-2 boat that had been given to me.  No takers on giving to a good 
home.  The boat had been constructed in the 1980's using Resorcinol glue, 
mahogany plywood and spruce.  I broke the boat to get rid of it.  Most of 
the glue joints for the spruce-to-spruce joints broke at the glue line.  A 
few joints broke in the wood fibers.  Where the plywood was stapled to the 
spruce, either the 3/32" plywood broke an inch or so from the spruce or the 
spruce would split.  Where the plywood was not stapled, the 
spruce-to-plywood joints all broke clean at the glue line.
For this one data point: Resorcinol is not recommended for mahogany plywood 
and spruce construction unless high clamping pressure is used.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

KR> Re: Plans lacking details

[smwood]

Tim,
When you get to the main landing gear for your tri-gear, be sure to put the 
wheels as far aft as possible.  The weight of the main wheels does move the 
CG a little further aft, but two people will be able to get in your KR-2S 
without dumping it on the tail skid.  Been there, done that.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

 
Another cause for concern with my plan set is I plan to build a tri-gear
version. Nowhere on any drawing is tri-gear addressed, and the manual deals
only with tail-gear details - no mention of tri-gear period! I'm sure the
situation is worse the farther from simply laying out the fuselage frame I
will get. Am I missing something here?

Thanks to anyone that can help me. Maybe I shouldn't be so concerned with
every detail, but this seems like an awful lot of guessing.

Tim Caughron

caugh...@bak.rr.com

KR> Seat Harness Attachment

[smwood]

Friday 7/15 a two-place glider N7475 crashed in a big tree attempting to get 
to the runway at K2W6.  On impact the pilot was ejected from the glider 
going through the instrument panel, windshield and canopy, then falling 
about 50 feet to the ground.  The pilot was killed apparently by multiple 
blunt force trauma.  The pilot's seatbelt and shoulder harness bolts ripped 
out of the wooden structure of the glider.  Wood remnants remaining on the 
bolts looked to be dry-rotted.  The passenger survived, suffering lower back 
pain.  His harness remained intact, but showed numerous cracks in the lumber 
at the bolt attachment points.  The fire department retrieved the passenger 
from the glider using their tower ladder truck. 
http://thebaynet.com/news/index.cfm/fa/viewstory/story_ID/23184
The glider was reported to be 43 years old and had been stored outside and 
also in a trailer.
All KR aircraft have their seat belts and shoulder harness attached to 
wooden structure in the aircraft.  It seems prudent to me that builders and 
owners would pay close attention to how the bolt anchor attachments are made 
and the soundness of the lumber during annual condition inspections.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

KR> Re: Oshkosh Volunteer

[smwood]

Volunteer 20 hours for the week and you can get a weekly pass for the 
following year.  You must log your hours with the chairman for that area you 
are volunteering at.  Like Ron says, there are lots of great places to play. 
Last year Bernie supervised the auto fuel station and met all sorts of 
celeberties as they came in for fuel for their Gators.  I will be teaching 
at the composites construction forum.  I think I mentioned this before: They 
will feed you free breakfast and lunch if you are on the job.

Bernie Wunder and I will be camping at Schoeller, arriving 7/23 through 
7/31.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net
Cell 240-538-8465


Volunteer to work about 2 hours per day and get in for free!! They'll give 
you a daily pass for the first 2 years of volunteer work. Lots of great 
places to play up there..

Ron

From: MICHAEL SYLVESTER shagste...@hotmail.com

Hey Guys, Quick and to the point. My traveling companions look like their 
going to pass on Oshkosh this year so If I decide to come it will be a solo 
16 hour drive. I'm still trying to figure out the camping arrangement. Looks 
like $22 a night plus $110 weekly admission and fuel up and back. Man, there 
goes $600. Anybody coming through Birmingham on their way up and back ? Or 
even close ?

Mike Sylvester
kr2s builder
Birmingham,AL.

Cell no.205-966-3854

KR> KR CG

[smwood]

My previously reported KR-2 weight is in error.  After some help by fellow 
Chapter 478 members Bernie Wunder and Tom Weis and assisted by Mike Weis, 
the correct weight appears to be 746 or 709 pounds, depending on which 
measurement and which bathroom scale you care to believe.  When we loaded 
the aircraft, wheel weights approached 500 pounds.  Since the scales only 
went to 300 pounds max, we had to use two scales per wheel.  That gets 
tricky for positioning the wheel exactly in the middle of the bridge between 
the two scales.  We also managed to trash one scale when the KR-2 
unexpectedly rolled off that scale and bent the edge of its platform.  Not 
exactly a hard landing, but it did get everyone's attention.  Chocks 
suddenly became important.  It appears that the nose does get fairly light 
at 58 to 63 pounds depending on leveling and gross weights.  (I recall Mark 
Jones reporting 63 pounds nose wheel weight for his tri-gear.)  Leveling 
does change with loading as the airplane settles on the main gear.  The 
spring gear also moves the wheels outboard with increasing loads.  That 
introduces side loading on the scales that messes with the scale 
calibration.
I still don't have the true numbers for weight and CG.  More to follow.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

KR> Re: Component Weight

[smwood]

Empty total weight for my plans-built tri-gear KR-2 is 609 pounds with GPASC 
2180 VW, Ed Sterba 52X52 wood prop, Diehl wings and gear, all-electronic 
instruments, two sealed batteries, a vinyl ester fuel tank in each wing, 
home-made wheel pants, strobes, landing lights, mechanical flaps, push rod 
controls, and balanced ailerons and elevator.
Waiting for FAA inspection scheduled for first week in September before I 
will have any performance numbers.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

KR> Re: Nose Gear Pictures

[smwood]

I have the Diehl nose gear.  Wheel fairing is home-built.  Engine mount, 
from Great Plains Aircraft Supply, ties in with the struts from the nose 
wheel mount.  Engine is a 2180 VW with a Diehl adapter case and 12 o'clock 
starter mount also from GPASC.
https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/40886159746196c8b11e86.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/71947984246196c8b1ca61.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/50206507746196c8b1f557.jpg
E-mail me if you want some construction details.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

--
Chris Corbine wrote:
I would appreciate I could get few detailed pictures of some currently
mounted.

You can see mine here
http://kr2spacemodulator.blogspot.com/2008/06/kr-2s-nose-landing-gear.html

Paul Smith
Brisbane, AUSTRALIA
pk.sm...@bigpond.net.au
http://kr2spacemodulator.blogspot.com/
---

hi paul just looking at the photos you put on the kr.net,do you know if 
thats a
homemade nosegear setup or was it maybe bought somewhere. im want to put a 
nose
gear on mine (looking for ideas) thanks brad davis augusta,maine-usa

KR> Re: Component weight

[smwood]

I have Diehl skins with built-in glass 10.6 gal. fuel tanks.  Outer wings 
weigh 68 pounds each, ready to fly, including outer WAF brackets, AN3 bolts, 
aileron, 2.6-pound balance lead, landing light, position & strobe, tie down 
bracket, fuel tank vent, fuel gauge sender, quick drain, paint and wing 
wiring.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

--
I believe that the Diehl are a bit heavier.  I had stock built on my first
KR, and they were about 40# and these are closer to 50.  I would weight them
for you, but they now have a 22# fuel tank in each wing.

Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC
-

Phil,

Is that he complete wing panel with spars, fittings, paint etc.?

Just trying to get a comparison on my built up wings.

I've always thought I could save some weight if I replaced mine with the Dan
Diehl skins ( vacuum bagged) but haven't been able to confirm how much I
could save.

Thanks Chris Gardiner KR2S- 220 hours total on GPAC VW2180

Thanks. Youre the first person to give me some useful information.

I have wing tanks and Dan Diehl wing skins
 They weigh 50 lbs each.


Phil Matheson
SAAA Ch 37

KR> AirVenture 2011 Forums

[smwood]

The first listings for the Forums at AirVenture 2011 Oshkosh are now 
available.
http://airventure.org/planning/schedules_maps.html

The KR Builders Forum is scheduled for Monday 7/25 at 1:00 PM.
http://www.eaaapps.org/forumsearchresults.aspx?keyword=kr%20builders

The Mixture Meter Forum is scheduled for Tuesday 7/26 at 10:00 AM.
http://www.eaaapps.org/forumsearchresults.aspx?keyword=KR-2

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

KR> Re: Mixture Meter Update

[smwood]

Most of the wide-band single wire O2 sensors are 0-5 volt devices.  However, 
they have high impedance outputs, which means you have to connect them to a 
high impedance input - in the megohm range.  Otherwise you load down the 
sensor output and get no useful information.  Most analog voltage inputs for 
tach, oil pressure, etc. are usually 15Kohm and not suitable for direct 
connection to a single wire O2 sensor.  A buffer amplifier is needed to make 
the impedance transfer.  Apparently the Xtreme EFIS has the proper buffer 
amplifier built in.

The O2 sensors that use a controller will usually have a 0-5 volt output for 
data loggers.  These will usually have a dedicated display also.  The 
controller type O2 sensors usually have 4 or 5 wires and have to be 
dedicated to a particular controller.  The 0-5 volt output from the 
controller is way downstream and isolated from the O2 sensor.

Bottom line here is:  If you are not sure about the electronics set up, use 
the packaged system (The O2 sensor, controller, display and harness) from 
one vendor.  Most systems have choices for display type (analog or digital) 
and data logger outputs for your own custom display and/or recording.

And the standard disclaimer: 100LL contains lead that will clog the O2 
sensor in about 100 hours operation and render the sensor as a throw-away.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR--2 N5242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net
--

Hi Sid
Just a note on mixture meters, I was looking over the MGL websight the other
day and noticed that their Xtreme EFIS has that facility built into it. All
it needs is an O2 sensor hooked up to it. It would appear the Xtreme is also
a full EIS with data logging facility for later engine analysis. With built
in GPS it seems a good bang for your buck. It also fits into a standard
large instrument hole.
Regards
Dene Collett
Avlec Projects
Port Elizabeth
South Africa.

--

 Hi Gang, contacted Dynon on this issue and they don't support it.
They have Variable voltage inputs though so if you could amplify the
O2 sensor output to Zero-to-5v it possibly could be done.


Paul Smith
Brisbane, AUSTRALIA
pk.sm...@bigpond.net.au
http://kr2spacemodulator.blogspot.com/

KR> Mixture Meter Update

[smwood]

For several years I have been putting user information together for mixture 
meters for KR aircraft.  Each year I have presented a summary at the 
Gathering.  So, if you have been using or plan to use a mixture meter, 
please let me know what brand, make and model of O2 sensor, vendor sources, 
prices and type display you are using and how many hours do you get on the 
sensor, type of fuel (auto fuel, 100LL).  Your engine brand, displacement, 
turbo, carb, throttle body, EFI, etc. would also be useful correlation for 
users and builders.  Any comments you have regarding the usefulness of the 
mixture meter would also be appreciated.  Please send your input to me 
offline and I will compile the summary for the KRnet.
Thanks in advance for your help for the KRnet.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

KR> Re: KRnet Digest, Vol 353, Issue 148, Message 1.

[smwood]

My virus firewall says this site tried to auto install malware on my 
computer.

Sid Wood
Mechanicsville, MD, USA

--

Message: 1
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Sun, 29 May 2011 18:29:54 -0700 (PDT)
From: oceanmanus 
Subject: KR> (no subject)
To: jes...@yahoo.com, flick...@yahoogroups.com, gbmc...@q.com,
jim.c.spra...@saint-gobain.com, projectbluesky...@yahoo.com,
j...@aviatorsociety.com, kr...@mylist.net, krnet-ow...@mylist.net,
w...@charter.net
Message-ID: <534993.85591...@web39420.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

http://windsaloftconsulting.com/find11.html

--

KR> Re: Clearance between leg & foam/glass

[smwood]

I am donig the bottom of the inner wings. I have a trike undercarrage with 
the legs on the rear of the front spar. Do I leave any clearance between the 
leg & the foam/fibreglass, is there any flexing & if so how much clearance 
do I leave. Or what have others done.
Mnay thanks
Robin.
N.Z.

--
Robin,
Dan Diehl told me several years ago that the movement of the gear leg at the 
bottom of the wing skin would be several 0.001 inch and progressive bending 
to several inches at the wheel end depending on the gross weight, hard 
landing, bumps, etc.  I am using the gear leg fairings at the bottom of the 
wing skin; purchased these from Dan also.  These fairings are glued to the 
wing skin with RTV and sliding touch the gear leg.  They flex with the gear 
leg.  The fairings close up the rough hole that the gear legs have at the 
wing skin.  I was not concerned about the clearance at the rough hole. 
Clearance between the wing skin and gear leg is about 1/2-inch at the 
closest point.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

KR> Re: wing tip slop

[smwood]

Has anyone bothered to read AC 43.13-1b Chapter 7 paragraph 7-39 and 7-40 
regarding bolt fit and torque for primary connecting elements?  I take that 
to mean this would apply directly to WAF applications.
http://rgl.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgAdvisoryCircular.nsf/list/AC%2043.13-1B/$FILE/Chapter%2007.pdf
Table 7-1 sums it up quite nicely.  What part of 40,000 psi don't you 
understand?
I submit the so called "wear mechanism" is due to improperly torqued WAF 
bolts.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

KR> Re:wing tip slop

[smwood]

Martin
 There should be NO movement at the wing tips unless you did not have the
nuts on as well. and tightened when you did this test??
Pat Russo

> Just did a final(?) W & B before registering and hopefully flying the
> first of my two, now allocated the rego 19 - 7814 . However.When we 
> put the
> wings on (for the first time in over 6 months) we noticed about 1 inch
> play vertical at each wing tip .  Fore and aft play seemed to be much 
> less, to
> the point that it wasn't noticeable..
> I presume that some vertical play is necessary and a result of being able
> to fit the wing bolts, but how much is too much? Is there a spec? Couldn't
> see one in the one manual which came with my two 'planes . Would
> appreciate advice 
> And if I have to reduce the play, does anyone have any recommendations
> please
> Cheers
> Martin
>
>
-
Martin,
As Pat put it: NO movement.  What little shaking you could try to do by 
grabbing the wing tip is trivial compared to the tons of force resulting 
from pulling 6 g's or a hard landing.  The bolt holes need a little 
clearance so the bolt will fit.  Technically the WAF bolts are in shear, but 
the holding grip comes from the bolts' tension squeezing the outer and inner 
WAF plates together.  It is friction that is holding the wing in place. 
(Same system for the AN3 bolts holding the WAF to the spars.)  Be sure you 
do use a torque wrench on those nuts to set the correct torque. AC 43.13-1B 
Table 7-1 looks like 160-190 in-lb recommended for AN6 bolts.  Don't take my 
word for it; read it for yourself.
http://rgl.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgAdvisoryCircular.nsf/list/AC%2043.13-1B/$FILE/Chapter%2007.pdf

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

KR> Fuel tank Sealing

[smwood]

Sid.
I was reading your web page fuel tank section, and was wondering what you
used and how you sealed you fuel tank inspection ports, and your unions you
used for the vents.

Phil Matheson.
--

Phil,
My fuel tanks are constructed with vinyl ester resin and fiberglass, same as 
the Diehl skins.  There are no inspection ports in the tanks, except for 
possibly the fuel filler cap.  The cap is the flush fitting set from Rand 
Robinson.  The threaded ring is floxed in the top skin with vinyl ester 
flox.  The fuel outlet, quick drain and vent fittings are aluminum welding 
flanges that are floxed into the walls.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/alumflange.php  I drilled a 
series of holes around the flat areas of the fittings to allow better grip 
for the flox.  Pipe threads in the flanges connect the rest of the piping.
The vents are nylon tubing with mechanical swaged fittings.  The fuel supply 
line is all aluminum with AN flared fittings.  The entire tank and plumbing 
system including the vent pipes have been tested air tight.  All piping is 
supported to minimize movement from vibration.
Each inspection panel in the bottom wing skin to look at the outer wall of 
the fuel tank is made from the piece that was cut out.  The attaching rim 
has no particular gasket or seal.  I figure the panel is on the bottom of 
the wing so rain and wash water would have little possibility to get in that 
otherwise empty bay.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

KR> Re: Removable Turtle Deck

[smwood]

My turtle deck is removable in a few minutes by taking out a bunch of flat 
head screws.  The screws engage captive stop nuts riveted to aluminum angle, 
in turn bolted to the top of the upper longerons.  I had to progressively 
bend the aluminum angle further in to match the changing curve of the turtle 
deck as it joins the side wall.
Everything from the seat back aft to the horizontal stabilizer spar is 
wide-open accessible while standing beside the fuselage.
I highly recommend the removable turtle deck; annual condition inspections 
are greatly facilitated.

I did the same approach for the forward deck/instrument panel - same 
wide-open accessibility and no panel diving!

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net
---
I have some questions about whether or not to build my TD removable.
For those that did, have you found it useful? Is it worth carrying that
extra weight in the tail to do so?
For those who didn't, have you been able to maintain your aircraft without?



Paul

I have a complete removable forward and Turtle deck. No crawling under dash
or peaking through inspection holes.

The turtle deck comes completely off in a few mins. I removed it at the
Natfly a few weeks ago in Temora and bystanders could not believe their
eyes. (thanks Mark L for your ideas).

I can do a complete inspection in mins.  WOULD not be without it. I am doing
same on my current project.

KR> Re: Ailerons

[smwood]

My plans were lost during Hurricane Katrina but the plane is moving right 
along. Can anyone tell me the size of the gap between the bottom of the 
aileron and the lower wing skin?  1/2" 3/4" etc ? Also what is the maximum 
degree of down aileron?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Victor Taylor
Irvington Alabama



The gap is whatever you build into it.  The smaller the better as long as 
you have enough down travel.  Some builders have put mylar sheets across the 
gap to seal them for better airfoil efficiency.  From the trail faired 
position, the plans call for 10 degrees down and 20 degrees up travel.  The 
assymetrical action in the up and down comes from the angle movement on the 
bellcranks connected to the ailerons at the aft spar.  The assymetrical 
movement also minimizes adverse yaw.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

KR> Instrument Panel

[smwood]

As a KRnet list member recently reported: No more Panel Diving.
I cut my forward deck in two about 16 inches aft of the firewall.  Now I 
have wide-open access to the back of the panel, master cylinders, batteries, 
wiring, etc.  I can now fix the three wiring glitches standing flat-footed 
on the concrete.  If I have to leave it in the rain someday, I will use duct 
tape on the seam like Mark Jones showed me at AirVenture.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

KR> Re: Tri gear tail first on runway

[smwood]

4/6/2011, you wrote:

>Very true statement Larry. I have slammed my tail on the runway more than
>once and the tie down ring on my tail bears the wear to attest to the fact.
>---
>Strange.
>I have 335 hours on my KR2 tricycle, and NEVER hit the tail.
>I can stall onto the runway, or drop the mains on the runway at 35 to 40
>kts.
>Phil Matheson
+++

I suspect the wing is not really "stalled" at that point and that
your ASI is probably off by 10 to 15 knots at that AOA.  You're
simple descending to the runway from the flair at minimum airspeed.
Same goes with a tail dragger touching tail first.  An interesting
test would be to measure the angle of the firewall in the three point
position (tri-gear ).  Then lower the tail to the ground and measure
the firewall angle again.  If the change is less then approx 14
degrees (plus your wing set AOA, the wing is not stalled with the
tail touching.  My tail dragger KR, with a 24 inch stretch over a
standard KR, 30 inch Diehl gear, wing set at 3.5 degrees, has the
wing at 12 degees in the 3 point attitude.  Again, just one man's opinion.

Larry Flesner
--
Larry,
I have a tri-gear plans-built KR-2 with standard Diehl gear.  Stub wing is 
set at 3.5 degrees AOA in level attitude.  With the tail skid pushed down 5 
inches off the level concrete, my inclinometer shows an AOA of 14 degrees. 
With the tail skid on the concrete the AOA goes to 17.5 degrees.  My 
conclusion: I would stall the wing before the tail skid touches the runway. 
Not accounted for is the low wing ground effect, static load on the gear and 
use of flaps on the above data versus actual flight performance.  I suppose 
it would be possible to momentarily touch the skid to the runway by over 
controlling with PIO.  Another possibility is planting the tail on the 
runway with max aft cg and full elevator deflection.  I recall Boeing doing 
an over-rotation test on a 747 to prove to the FAA that the 747 was still 
flyable from the runway in that high AOA and aft cg situation.  Boeing used 
a huge oak block bolted to the tail of the 747 as a skid.  Hmm...maybe a 
little oak block would work on my KR-2.  Another data point for my flight 
tests.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242, pimping for the DAR
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

KR> Re: Exfoliation

[smwood]

Air, Water and Light: Essential elements of life for mere mortals.
Air, Water and Light: Essential elements of destruction for aluminum, steel, 
epoxy, paint and just about any other mortal-made object.
Moral of the story: Coat every surface, including bolt holes, to keep air 
off.  Keep everything dry.  Keep epoxy in the dark.
Easy to say; lot of effort to do.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smw...@md.metrocast.net

--

Just a heads up really for anyone on the list flying an older KR2 ... I have
a recently imported 30 yr old aircraft and had a condition report done on
Friday. This is where a qualified aircraft engineer comes to have a look as
part of the re registration process .

He found three instances of exfoliation corrosion, two on the flap
attachments at the base of the fuselage (one on each side) and one on the
elevator trim horn.

Although I hadn't seen the flap attachment brackets, when It was pointed out
to me, it was obvious, with the aluminium crush plate peeled open in layers,
the layers pinched together by the bolts ..

The scary one was the trim cable attachment. This just looked like a
slightly rusty clevis on the cable. The corrosion on the horn was mostly
hidden. Once I had dismantled the connection, I gently scraped the control
horn with a screw driver, and the aluminium just peeled back in layers under
where the clevis had been sitting and, in the line of the cable, the
material just crumbled away leaving the pin (if it had still been in place)
free to pull out!  There are a couple of pictures of the elevator horn here
...
http://www.recreationalflying.net/showthread.php/141493-How-an-L2-saved-my-l
ife-. 

Regards

Martin

KR> Re:Gathering date change

[smwood]

Larry,
The date change really scrambles my plans.  September 9 & 10 were perfect.  I 
was planning on flying my KR-2 to MVN this year.  Now it's like being 
weathered-out eight months in advance.  Does not seem to likely now with the 
conflicts in my schedule.  What are the possibilities of changing dates to 
September 30 & October 1?  Better yet, how about September 23 & 24?  How many 
KR types would have a conflct with actually going to the AOPA spam can 
happening?  

Regards,
Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
smw...@md.metrocast.net

+++

Gathering attendees,

I have been communicating with Chris Collins for the last week or so 
about the necessity of changing the date for this years Gathering due 
to event conflicts at the Mt.Vernon airport.  Read his e-mail below 
for the details.  Bottom line is that the only way to work around the 
conflicts is to move our Gathering date back one week to September 16 
and 17.  I sincerely hope this date change will not cause anyone to 
change their plans to attend the Gathering, especially those planning 
to attend from outside the U.S.A.

If anyone has major concerns about this change in dates, please get 
back to me at  fles...@frontier.com

I will work with Bob Lee to insure our foreign visitors are contacted.

I will be posting, in the next week or so, a list of volunteers 
needed in the areas of judging, awards,  forums, etc.. Also, I have 
contacted the Holiday Inn for bookings and that info will be posted 
to the Gathering web page in the next few days.  I'll be getting 
started on the hats and shirts as soon as my supplier gets back from vacation.

Here we go again  :-)  How many days, Jones???

Larry Flesner
2011 Gathering Host



>Larry:
>
>Greetings from KMVN.  Several weeks ago, you and I agreed upon a 
>date for the 2011 KR National Gathering.  The KR event is currently 
>scheduled for the second weekend of September.  The Third Annual 
>Midwest LSA Expo, 
>www.midwestlsashow.com  is currently 
>scheduled for the fourth weekend in September (as it was in 
>2010).  Life is good and there are no conflicts.
>
>Early last week I learned the AOPA Aviation Summit, normally held in 
>November, has been scheduled for the fourth weekend in September, 
>2011.  I am sure there are many reasons why AOPA changed their 
>schedule.  I would guess that the new location, Hartford, 
>Connecticut, is not suitable for an aviation event in 
>November.   Regardless of their reasons, the change puts us in a 
>major quandary.
>
>The top aircraft manufacturers, aviation media, LAMA, AOPA, EAA, and 
>many aviation enthusiasts will not miss the AOPA event (meaning they 
>will not be at the Midwest LSA Expo as currently scheduled).  This 
>has forced me to make an easy decision - the dates for the Midwest 
>LSA Expo must be changed.  A later date is out of the question 
>because it places the event in October.  We believe the weekend 
>before (9/16 - 9/18/11) does not leave enough time for the 
>manufacturers and media between the MLSA Expo and the AOPA Aviation 
>Summit (some may claim they can not come to the Midwest LSA Expo 
>because they "are getting ready for AOPA").  The second weekend of 
>September would be beneficial as it would provide space between the 
>Midwest LSA Expo and the AOPA Aviation Summit.  That is the weekend 
>currently occupied by the KR National Gathering.
>
>I humbly ask members of the KR Family if they would consider the 
>weekend of September 16 through the 18th for the 2011 KR National 
>Gathering at Mt. Vernon Outland Airport.  Being flexible would allow 
>Mt. Vernon Outland Airport to grow the Midwest LSA Expo - our 
>region's only "National Aviation Event".
>
>Please call me at (618) 315-5462 if you have any questions or 
>suggestions.  I appreciate your consideration.
>
>Chris Collins
>Mt. Vernon Outland Airport
>www.mtvernonairport.com
>www.midwestlsashow.com
>(618) 315-5462
>
>