no smog is required except on vehicle transfer into this county. so i
guess the same 90 day window applies, the car i got passed about 5 months
before i got it and had a long list of other passes in california.
sadly i have been taken advantage of more than once by mechanics shops so i
will
i could just tape the loom up where the wires are cut. i have searched
vortex forums and it seems allot of people run without that plug sensor but
i can't find a definate on what the computer actually does.
i don't know if its because im living in a no smog small county or what,
but i have
Uh, that was EGR valve, not EYE. Damn auto correct...
~Holland
On Mar 31, 2016 19:56, "Holland Phillips" wrote:
> I've had concerns about the wires you found cut since you mentioned them.
> In CA, on pre OBD cars, they look for hardware and check tail pipe. I had a
>
I've had concerns about the wires you found cut since you mentioned them.
In CA, on pre OBD cars, they look for hardware and check tail pipe. I had a
Euro intake on my car, and the port for the EYE valve wasn't machined, so I
just bolted the valve on and ran the wire back into the harness without
holy cow i hope to have a success story soon but i am not quite there yet
for smog. i went ahead and checked the codes and found i got an egr
error, igntion reference sender and knock sensor #1 bad wiring or sender.
somebody told me i don't have a california ecu, does anybody know if all
Must be a Cali only thing then. I've never seen one in any other car before
late 1993
Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 25, 2016, at 9:51 AM, Holland Phillips
> wrote:
>
> I know that my '92 GTI 16V had a lot of emissions hardware that was specific
> to California
I know that my '92 GTI 16V had a lot of emissions hardware that was
specific to California models. I remember when I would have the car
smogged, they would poke around the engine compartment for 15 or 20 minutes
just checking that all the hardware was there. I've never understood why
California in
I was wondering if it was exclusively a california thing. My 90 Corrado had
the connector underneath the shifter boot but I never really used it.
On the other hand, I discovered in the Bentley, My 95 Jetta with the 2.0l
motor had a small key underneath the rear seat. The key was inserted into
the
It's starting to sound like non California cars may not have what I've been
referring to as a check engine light.
My car was a California car from new.
The best ground on any car is the negative battery post.
The smell is very possibly the new cat, and the droning noise may be having
to do with
hmm, i see nothing in my cluster about this light or a seperate switch in
the dash. i see motronic has basic codes you can check with jumper and led
with harness under shift boot. i will check my car tomorrow for that and
see what happens.
i tightened the distributor bolts and no go, timing
Maybe it was a California only thing. But I am positive that there was some
sort of indicator on the dash that would illuminate when you turned on the
ignition, and go out once the engine started. And, at least on my car, it
would light up if the ECU detected a fault. Many times I remember reading
You're correct, there is no vacuum line attached to the ecu. But there is
definitely something that is supposed to be disconnected when setting base
timing. Since your chassis isn't a California car, there is probably a lot
of things that are different. Until the OBD2 spec came into effect in, I
You sure? My friends '92 corrado didn't have one. I've never seen one in a
16v GTi/GLi.
I've never seen one until '93 and even then it had to be a late '93...
Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 24, 2016, at 6:59 PM, Holland Phillips
> wrote:
>
> My '92 had an amber
the 2.0 im shaft fit into my block but the matching big gear wouldn't fit
in the smaller hole on the block that mates with the oil pump so i still
don't understand whats going on with this, but if i pass smog i won't care
:)
unless i am missing something all i see for timing this car is to
My '92 had an amber lindicator that was in the shape of an engine. I used to check for codes using the method outlined in the Bentley, so I'm sure it was there. Maybe I'm wrong about it looking like an engine, too much has happened since the last time I worked on my car.
On Mar 24, 2016 17:29,
Two knock sensors means 2.0/9A block.
On the timing issue, there is something that needs to be disconnected prior
to using a timing light. I can't remember what exactly it is, but I think
it's a vacuum line somewhere. Again, that information is in the Bentley.
Once the whatever is disconnected,
Holland,
There is no check engine light. VW didn't add one until 1993, my corrado slc
had one...
Josh
Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 24, 2016, at 6:04 PM, damac2004 wrote:
>
> ok so ground showed no continuity to that sensor wire. it does with pin 7 i
> believe on
ok so ground showed no continuity to that sensor wire. it does with pin 7
i believe on the ecu connector, so i guess i am good. i kept getting
confused because people were talking about an insulated wire and im
thinking a nasty cable like for tv. when looking these guys over as is,
they
take a chance to look or feel closer.
>>
>> i have seen people mention these cars can run crappy with vac leaks and
>> they don't run without the intake tubes attached? i'm hoping this is what
>> it was. going to make some block off plates and gasket to seal those 2
>> holes up
asiest way to check the pumps is to disconnect the input line at the fuel
> distributor and have someone turn on the ignition for a second. You should
> get a really healthy stream of fuel. As I recall, the main pump operates at
> around 50psi, give or take.
> We're reaching for str
hen i can smog it.
>>
>> On Tuesday, March 1, 2016 at 10:41:38 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>>
>> I just thought of something. Any chance the fuel in the tank could be
>> contaminated? Since I think you said you're in California, the fuel here is
>> probab
aren't healthy, that can cause weird running problems. The
> easiest way to check the pumps is to disconnect the input line at the fuel
> distributor and have someone turn on the ignition for a second. You should
> get a really healthy stream of fuel. As I recall, the main pump operates at
&g
es at
> around 50psi, give or take.
> We're reaching for straws at this point, so the more you check that looks
> correct, that's fewer possibilities to deal with.
>
> ~Holland
>
> On Mar 1, 2016 10:15, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com> wrote:
> I just c
l and other crazy additives
>> that's in it, it has an extremely short shelf life.
>> An other thing, I wonder how the fuel pumps are? If either the main or
>> transfer pump aren't healthy, that can cause weird running problems. The
>> easiest way to check the pumps is to disconn
thy stream of fuel. As I recall, the main pump operates at
> around 50psi, give or take.
> We're reaching for straws at this point, so the more you check that looks
> correct, that's fewer possibilities to deal with.
>
> ~Holland
> On Mar 1, 2016 10:15, "Larry Velez" &
t; On Tuesday, March 1, 2016 at 10:41:38 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>>>
>>> I just thought of something. Any chance the fuel in the tank could be
>>> contaminated? Since I think you said you're in California, the fuel here is
>>> probably the worst in the U.S..
<>
https://www.injector.com/ <https://www.injector.com/>
https://www.facebook.com/MarrenFuelInjection/
<https://www.facebook.com/MarrenFuelInjection/>
-Larry
From: mk2...@googlegroups.com <> [mailto:mk2...@googlegroups.com <>] On Behalf
Of Holland Phillips
Sent
s at
> around 50psi, give or take.
> We're reaching for straws at this point, so the more you check that looks
> correct, that's fewer possibilities to deal with.
>
> ~Holland
> On Mar 1, 2016 10:15, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com> wrote:
>
> I just checked and M
gt;> distributor and have someone turn on the ignition for a second. You should
>> get a really healthy stream of fuel. As I recall, the main pump operates at
>> around 50psi, give or take.
>> We're reaching for straws at this point, so the more you check that looks
>>
ors
> of all ages: <>
>
>
> https://www.injector.com/ <https://www.injector.com/>
>
>
> https://www.facebook.com/MarrenFuelInjection/
> <https://www.facebook.com/MarrenFuelInjection/>
>
>
> -Larry
>
>
>
> From: mk2...@googl
t;>> On Mar 1, 2016 10:15, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I just checked and Marren is still in business and still rebuilding
>>>> injectors of all ages:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> https://www.
nd Marren is still in business and still rebuilding
>>>> injectors of all ages:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> https://www.injector.com/
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> https://www.facebook.com/MarrenFuelInjecti
>>>> get a really healthy stream of fuel. As I recall, the main pump operates
>>>> at around 50psi, give or take.
>>>> We're reaching for straws at this point, so the more you check that looks
>>>> correct, that's fewer possibilities to deal with.
>&g
of all ages:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> https://www.injector.com/
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> https://www.facebook.com/MarrenFuelInjection/
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -Larry
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *From:*
d still rebuilding
>>> injectors of all ages:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> https://www.injector.com/
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> https://www.facebook.com/MarrenFuelInjection/
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -Larry
>>>
>&g
-Larry
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* mk2...@googlegroups.com [mailto:
>> mk2...@googlegroups.com ] *On Behalf Of *Holland Phillips
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 1, 2016 12:56 PM
>> *To:* mk2...@googlegroups.com
>> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] how
Mar 1, 2016 11:58, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com> wrote:
>>>> Good point on the fueling system. Bad gas (Ethanol is the devil!),
>>>> clogged fuel filter, clogged fuel lines, failing fuel pump(s) or failing
>>>> injectors could definitely co
overheated since they are intended to be cooled by
>>>>> the fuel. About $500 later, I had learned a very expensive lesson.
>>>>>
>>>>> ~Holland
>>>>> On Mar 1, 2016 11:58, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com> wrote:
&g
gt;>
>>>>> ~Holland
>>>>>
>>>>>> On Mar 1, 2016 11:58, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com> wrote:
>>>>>> Good point on the fueling system. Bad gas (Ethanol is the devil!),
>>>>>> clogged fu
the ignition for a second. You should
>>>>> get a really healthy stream of fuel. As I recall, the main pump operates
>>>>> at
>>>>> around 50psi, give or take.
>>>>> We're reaching for straws at this point, so the more you check that
>>>>
fuel lines, failing fuel pump(s) or failing
>>> injectors could definitely contribute to running issues – I would imagine.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -Larry
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *From:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googl
Mar 1, 2016 10:15, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com> wrote:
>>
>> I just checked and Marren is still in business and still rebuilding
>> injectors of all ages:
>>
>>
>>
>> https://www.injector.com/
>>
>>
>>
>> https:/
Funny how those expensive lessons stay with you the longest;)
Jesse
From: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of
Holland Phillips
Sent: Tuesday, March 01, 2016 3:25 PM
To: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
Subject: RE: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have
*Sent:* Tuesday, March 1, 2016 1:42 PM
> *To:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
> *Subject:* RE: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
>
>
>
> I just thought of something. Any chance the fuel in the tank could be
> contaminated? Since I think you said you're in California, the fue
] On Behalf Of
Holland Phillips
Sent: Tuesday, March 1, 2016 1:42 PM
To: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
Subject: RE: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
I just thought of something. Any chance the fuel in the tank could be
contaminated? Since I think you said you're in California, the fuel here
ups.com] *On
> Behalf Of *Holland Phillips
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 1, 2016 12:56 PM
> *To:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
>
>
>
> I agree with you Chad. At this point, I would perform a compression test.
> If that loo
groups.com] *On
> Behalf Of *Holland Phillips
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 1, 2016 12:56 PM
> *To:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
>
>
>
> I agree with you Chad. At this point, I would perform a compression test.
> I
, 2016 12:56 PM
To: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
I agree with you Chad. At this point, I would perform a compression test. If
that looks good, then I'm at a loss as to where to go next. Maybe look at the
injectors. It's probably easier
I agree with you Chad. At this point, I would perform a compression test.
If that looks good, then I'm at a loss as to where to go next. Maybe look
at the injectors. It's probably easier and cheaper to try and find some
used, hopefully known good injectors, even if it's only one. Then you could
Also check that the cam sprocket is located in the right place on the cam.
If the tooth broke off of the cam gear then it could rotate causing the
timing to be incorrect. Did you mention that the cam sprocket had a broken
locating tooth?
On Feb 29, 2016 7:47 PM, "Chad Rebuck"
Changing the cams out will be a waste of time. What did you do to verify
the spark plug wire order? Can you take a video of how the car is running?
On Feb 29, 2016 7:39 PM, "damac2004" wrote:
> i put the techtronics chip back in and put the older throttle body back in
>
i put the techtronics chip back in and put the older throttle body back in
with no changes in how the car is acting. i also checked grounds and ran
some extras to the bundle on head, etc. just in case.
my issues make for a useless car, no way it could be driven. so my
problems seem way
Since the Mk 2 cars were all pre OBD, they had only one O2 sensor which was
mounted before the cat. So the ECU never knew if the cat even existed or
was functioning properly. Now that I think about it, if the O2 sensor has
no output, or was not connected, the ECU will go into "safe mode", which is
i could test compression but it it did drive fine before i tore it all apart,
after this incident.
this car had no cat so 02 sensor was laying underneath airbox this whole time
:).
i thought the car stunk and i got bad mileage but this car was fun to drive. i
was beating on itand it pulled
To properly test compression, you have to be able to spin the motor at full
starter motor rpm, meaning fully charged battery, and all spark plugs
removed.
Something occurred to me. Have you replaced the O2 sensor? The Motronic
system is sensitive to proper O2 sensor input to the ECU. I have
thanks that info helps i will get this car going again.
car was running fine to me. last drive i came off freeway to oil light and i
ran the car near idle for almost a minute while getting off road. turned out
im carrier had no bolts so it tried to pop out and knicked some of im shaft
gear
Sounds like you've done your homework. I apologize if I over explained too
much, but I wasn't sure of your knowledge/ability. I truly feel your
frustration at this point.
As far as the ECU is concerned, if the engine ran ok, and all you did to
the ECU is to swap in a stock chip, then unless the
It's probably going to turn out to be something very basic. Maybe the spark
plug wires are mixed up a little bit? The chip should not matter just to
get the engine up and running the chip only fine tunes the timing and the
fuel for a little bit more power. You could do a compression check to be
i did use the same oil pump there was no debris? i cleaned it up and tested
and when i hit im shaft with impact it sprayed out in the engine bay and built
pressure so figured i would try if it measured ok?
this is my first time with gasser but timing belt job seems easy to me? a
tooth off
Can the timing belt be off a tooth? That would explain why the spark timing is
all the way to the right and why it's running rough.
By the way, how's the oil pressure? Did you use the same oil pump?
On Feb 27, 2016, at 8:24 PM, damac2004 wrote:
thanks but this is the
thanks but this is the reason im all over the place and freaking out. i
checked and marked things before i took the car apart. had this incident not
happened i would have installed the cat and went to smog.
i have triple checked timing which is pretty simple. all marks line up and
dipstick
Okay, on Motronic engines, if the basic timing, as in distributor position,
is correct, the advance/retard function is handled by the ECU. To check the
basic mechanical timing, you have to remove the threaded plug in the top of
the bell housing, which has a plastic cap covering it. It requires a
all new seals, etc. i thought the wierd noise may have been timing?
sprayed all around for leaks and there arent any vac leaks i fixed those before.
i was told i got a 1.8 bottom end with 2.0 head. i believe chasis gti is 2.0
i just looked up fuel distributor and ecu part numbers and google
cam so I could move the drive gear one tooth, and
>>>>>> rechecked the alignment marks. They were then lined up exactly.
>>>>>> Reassembled
>>>>>> everything and started the engine once again. Perfect! The engine revved
>>>>>> freely and mor
tened flywheel, and
>>>>> a bunch of other mods done to the engine, and with the new cams, the car
>>>>> was noticeably faster than it had ever been. Moral of the story is all
>>>>> those alignment marks MUST
>>>>> be exactly aligned,
gt;>>>
>>>> im in california, ugh! i found out the cams are estas.
>>>>
>>>> this may sound like a dumb question but when i went to time the car
>>>> with stock pulley i found that the front cam is a little off. it looks like
>>>> if i m
t sense since it had an adjustable cam.
>>>
>>> i don't understand how these motors work, should the #1 lobes be
>>> pointing towards the middle at the same angle? its hard to tell exactly
>>> but it seems if i turned the front cam to match the internal marks t
February 5, 2016 at 2:12:10 PM UTC-8, Larry Velez wrote:
>>>>
>>>> What country are you in that you are so worried about passing smog? In
>>>> the USA, most of these cars are now exempt.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
k2...@googlegroups.com
[mailto:mk2...@googlegroups.com]On Behalf Of damac2004
Sent: Thursday, February 4, 2016 9:43 PM
To: MK2-16v <mk2...@googlegroups.com>
Cc: mg...@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have? so are people
saying native 2.0 heads can fit onto the
ry
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *From:* mk2...@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2...@googlegroups.com] *On
>>> Behalf Of *damac2004
>>> *Sent:* Thursday, February 4, 2016 9:43 PM
>>> *To:* MK2-16v <mk2...@googlegroups.com>
>>> *Cc:* mg...@ya
googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of
damac2004
Sent: Thursday, February 4, 2016 9:43 PM
To: MK2-16v <mk2...@googlegroups.com>
Cc: mg...@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
so are people saying native 2.0 heads can fit onto the 1.8 bottom
>>> but it seems if i turned the front cam to match the internal marks that the
>>>> cam lobe might match the other cam. to me right now it looks just a tad
>>>> off.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Friday, February 5, 201
cared to touch it in that sense since it had an adjustable cam.
>>>>>
>>>>> i don't understand how these motors work, should the #1 lobes be
>>>>> pointing towards the middle at the same angle? its hard to tell exa
hat country are you in that you are so worried about passing smog? In
> the USA, most of these cars are now exempt.
>
> -Larry
>
> *From:* mk2...@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2...@googlegroups.com] *On
> Behalf Of *damac2004
> *Sent:* Thursday, February 4, 2016 9:43 PM
> *To:
middle at the same angle? its hard to tell exactly but it
>> seems if i turned the front cam to match the internal marks that the cam
>> lobe might match the other cam. to me right now it looks just a tad off.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Friday, February 5, 2016 at 2:12:10 PM UTC-8,
gt;
>>
>> *From:* mk2...@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2...@googlegroups.com] *On
>> Behalf Of *damac2004
>> *Sent:* Thursday, February 4, 2016 9:43 PM
>> *To:* MK2-16v <mk2...@googlegroups.com>
>> *Cc:* mg...@yahoo.com
>> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] h
se cars are now exempt.
>
>
>
> -Larry
>
>
>
> From: mk2...@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of
> damac2004
> Sent: Thursday, February 4, 2016 9:43 PM
> To: MK2-16v <mk2...@googlegroups.com>
> Cc: mg...@yahoo.com
>
s.com] *On
>> Behalf Of *damac2004
>> *Sent:* Thursday, February 4, 2016 9:43 PM
>> *To:* MK2-16v <mk2...@googlegroups.com>
>> *Cc:* mg...@yahoo.com
>> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
>>
>>
>>
>> so are
16 9:43 PM
> *To:* MK2-16v <mk2-16v@googlegroups.com>
> *Cc:* mg...@yahoo.com
> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
>
>
>
> so are people saying native 2.0 heads can fit onto the 1.8 bottom end?
>
>
>
> is there any kind of
gt;
Cc: mg...@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
so are people saying native 2.0 heads can fit onto the 1.8 bottom end?
is there any kind of clues on castings on the outside i can look for to see
what i have, and does anybody know if the stock cams 16v are th
I don't recall Schrick cams having those colored stripes around the base
circles. I have concerns about the discoloration on some of the lobes. It's
difficult to tell from the picture if there is actual wear, or if it's
blueing from heat. Either way, I personally would have a professional
mechanic
Agreed - the Mk2 chassis, like the contemporary Honduh chassis, accepts
virtually ALL and ANY configuration of OE drivetrain in a mix-and-match set-up.
Some of the old-school 16v tricks included the 1.8l head on the 2.0l block b/c
the 1.8l head flows better in stock trim. To spice up power,
Anything is possible, trans, heads and blocks are all interchangeable. My GTi
had a weird mix of 2.0 and 1.8 components and it ran beautifully. Never passed
emissions because of a hollow cat, but I had a buddy who took care of it. He
sold his business so I registered it as a historic/classic
Something I want to present - with the issues you've described, I,
personally, would pull the engine and fully disassemble it and have the
block/crank/rods et all inspected and measured by a reputable machine shop.
With the issues known to exist, it would be a shame to spend the time and
money
somebody on forums just showed me a couple pictures that makes it pretty
clear now. since i haven't touched these parts before it didn't dawn on me
to look at where you slide the oil pump im shaft gear in is a different
dimension!
it looks like i have a 1.8 block, there is a little bit of
Sure sounds like a 2.0l 16v especially because of the 2 knock sensors which
were only present on the 91 and later cars - Digifunk for 8v and Moronic for
16v. I wouldn't necessarily throw TEPO (the evil previous owner) under the bus
though - Volkswagen was/is notorious for having a vast spare
hmmm, i am still not convinced and found a 1.8 oil pump in it.
is there a problem with me going with the 2.0 im shaft/gear and its oil
pump? if im reading right it can only help? then i won't have to worry.
the more i read im still not seeing how it can be a 2.0 bottom end with the
1.8
The external differences between 1.8 and 2.0 16V heads and blocks are very
minimal. I don't recall the over hang you speak of, but I wouldn't be
concerned.
~Holland
On Feb 2, 2016 09:28, "damac2004" wrote:
> hmmm, i am still not convinced and found a 1.8 oil pump in it.
I'm wracking my pea-brain but don't recall any difference in the intermediate
shaft between 1.8 and 2.0l 16vs (or 8vs for that matter). It's been a while
since I looked closely at the front of a 16v but what you describe as an
overhang is normal. From the exterior, the 1.8 and 2.0 blocks are
My 88 GTi came with a 9A 2.0, and the guy who sold it to me never knew it. I
realized it was a 2.0 when I discovered a second knock sensor above the oil
cooler, the 1.8 only has one.
On Feb 1, 2016, at 2:59 PM, damac2004 wrote:
the chasis is a 1991 gti but i don't
Good point Steve. There are a bunch of other ways to tell, but they are far
too numerous for me to type on a phone.
~Holland
On Feb 1, 2016 12:58, "Steven Arguello" wrote:
> My 88 GTi came with a 9A 2.0, and the guy who sold it to me never knew it.
> I realized it was
Does it have a ECU mounted under the plastic tray at the base of the
windshield? The tray covers the windshield wiper motor, and is held on by
some clips. If it does, it's probably a 9A. The 1.8 liter 16V doesn't
utilize an ECU.
~Holland
On Feb 1, 2016 11:59, "damac2004"
Well, it's definitely a 9A engine. Whatever else is going on with the internals is a mystery. I would just buy all the replacement parts you need for the 9A and be done with it.
On Feb 1, 2016 14:30, damac2004 wrote:1. yes there is an ecu and it has a techtronics chip in
1. yes there is an ecu and it has a techtronics chip in it that says 16v
2.0
2. i think it does have 2 knock sensors on the front of the block to the
left of the block breather fitting? each one looks the same, one has a
bare wire the whole length, and each goes to its own wire harness
I don't recall you saying what year your car is. If it's a '91-'92 2.0
liter 16V, the engine designation is 9A.
~Holland
On Jan 31, 2016 11:51 PM, "damac2004" wrote:
> is there some kind of decoder? when i search google i come up with few
> and differing answers. i
95 matches
Mail list logo