Definitely different from the days when Allen Thomas was fielding
everybody's questions.
Thank you and good luck to Paul, Kyle, Joey, and Javier, four members I've
met face-to-face through this group. I still have my Nighthawk and ride it
from time to time, but my Pacific Coast and my NC700X
Leland, I had the same problem you describe. The petcock filter in the gas
tank was plugged. It would slowly let enough gas into the bowls to allow me
to go down the road a bit before running out of gas. Then after giving it
some time, enough gas would make it to the carbs for another go.
There's this: http://xjbikes.wikidot.com/the-list
On Sunday, September 27, 2020 at 10:51:17 PM UTC-4 aaronp...@yahoo.com
wrote:
> Okay I connected the airbox carb boots then flushed the clutch fluid and
> took it around the neighborhood. And it felt really smooth with a lot of
> power
*Does anyone have recommendations on where to source quality rebuild kits?
I'm guessing Honda Genuine isn't always necessary?*
I rebuilt my master and slave with kits from Emgo a few years back and have
not had any issues since.
On Friday, September 25, 2020 at 12:23:51 PM UTC-4 William
I had a similar problem that I fixed by changing the diode on the wiring
harness. On a 1984 V30 Magna, it was a little plug-in unit under the seat.
Take a look at the wiring harness diagram for your bike on Partzilla or
similar and see if you can't locate it. Then use the part number to search
I remember seeing bikes with that body style in Europe.
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Mission accomplished!
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Javier, sorry to hear you got stranded, but Boulder is a lot better than
Westminster, no? When you have your bike, you can do Boulder Canyon and Rocky
Mountain National Park, two great rides. Take care.
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Guys, do you know about this free app? Here's what it did with my ride
today.
https://www.relive.cc/view/vYvrDeNMVx6
Nighthawk content: I did the ride on my Nighthawk.
I think this is pretty fun. If this topic is too far afield, Joey and Kyle
please 86 it.
Thanks!
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When I'm on the Interstate, my 96 Nighthawk750 reads 14.6 volts. My other
bikes read about 13.6. I'm wondering if this is normal. Those of you with
2nd generation Nighthawks, what does yours read? I'm wondering if me R/R is
failing, or should I relax. Thanks.
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Hey Javier, good to hear from you. Maybe I can guess why you moved to
Boulder? I'm taking the Nighthawk up in the hills of No. Georgia today
with my wife on the back - first time since the accident. Stay cool.
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Guys, I don't mean to hijack the thread, but I think I'm ready to invest
in a proper store-bought sync tool. If you think you made a good purchase,
can you take a minute to tell me which one you bought? Thanks, Glenn
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Thanks, Kyle. And Ole Yeller's still running like a champ.
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Oh, OK. I just remember that when Allen Thomas passed, Paul told us when he
joined the group. I didn't know if you could see that like Paul, but I
guess not. Or maybe Paul knew that some other way.
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Hey Joey, how've you been? Do you guys have the date I joined available?
I'm feeling like it's probably going on 10 years.
Glenn
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Ok, I can't find it either. I've looked and looked at the fiches, and I
give up. I don't remember how I found it, last summer but I'm attaching a
picture of it for you from the shop manual. If I were you, I would call
Partzilla or whomever you usually use, even your local dealer if you like,
The kickstand has its own switch.
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They are one and the same.
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I had the situation where my bike would start up fine, but after it warmed
up it would not. I can't remember if the neutral light came on or not, but
I could not start it with the starter button, even with the clutch pulled
in. I changed the neutral indicator switch by the left foot peg and the
I hope that helps somebody. It wasn't original. It was something I
copy-paste-saved from this mailing list back in the day, maybe from Allen
Thomas, God rest his soul.
One thing I can add personally, because I figured it out on my bike. After
the winter, I would try to start it up and it would
Run a clear vinyl hose out the back of the Carb Drain up to the Carb Body.
Open the Drain Screw and watch the level of fuel in the vinyl hose.
The Fuel Level should be even with the bottom of the lock washer on the
Fuel Bowl Screws holding the Bowl to the Body.
If it isn't, your needle
If you have no pressure as Graham asked, try this.
1. Turn a 5-gallon bucket upside down by your caliper.
2. Put a jar of old brake fluid on the bucket. If you don't have that, use
a half-jar of water.
3. Get some plastic hose. Put one end on the bleeder valve on your bike and
the other end in
I don't know, but it sounds like your question is about the engine to the
air box, and Kyle's answer is from the air box to the ground. On my bikes,
I just pull off the hose since it's only held on by clips and take a look.
Considering the diameter of the hose, it's hard to see it plugging.
The order is clear from the diagram. Since the piston is spring-loaded, can
you push it in a bit until the circlip locks in?
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Your first step should be to just have your battery checked at Advance Auto
Parts.
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All are available on partzilla.com.
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If you do need to change it, I just put a new battery in my Nighthawk. The
one I took out was market 8/2011. Yes, it lasted 8 years! It was a Deka
>
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I feel ya, but the PC800 does have more secure cargo space, especially with the
56L top case. Important when leaving the bike parked in cities.
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1. What tools/spare parts did you bring?
Not too much. Tire repair kit, air compressor, extra oil (it uses some),
ratchet with 10-17mm sockets, allen wrenches, tire pressure gauge,
electrical tape, scissors, razor knife, fuses, cigarette lighter digital
volt meter
2. You mention at the end of
Don, feel free to ask me anything about the trip, and I hope you get a chance
to do it also someday.
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Thanks, Kyle. I thought about you as I cruised through Houston - both ways.
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The first letter of the VIN will tell you where it was made. J = Japan, 1 =
US, 2 = Canada. This is how I learned my Buick was made in Canada.
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I can tell you that on a PC800, which does self-cancel, it is located in the
"neck" of the frame above the front wheel so that it can turn with the
handlebars to sense the direction of the bike. It works in conjunction with a
speed sensor behind the speedometer pod so that it doesn't turn off
Quick update for anyone who may experience what I did. Changing the neutral
switch fixed the sometimes yes/ sometimes no problem for starting. The
neutral light always comes on and the bike always starts now. However, it
must still be in neutral to start. My local bike shop says this is simply
Kyle,that sounds pretty different. The 90s bikes have no gear indicator, and
the neutral switch has a single bullet connector. I added some dielectric
grease and took it for a ride to heat it up. Better, but the neutral light
still went off right after coming on sometimes. I went ahead and
Yes, that's normal. If your engine stopped when you put down the side stand
while in neutral, as mine sometimes does, you would consider it abnormal, I
suppose.
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>
> I'll follow up my own post and say that the issue seems to be a faulty
> neutral indicator. When the problem occurs, the neutral indicator light
> refuses to come on even when the bike is in neutral. Putting the side stand
> down stops the motor at that time.
>
Now, one should be able to
Tommy, you thought correctly. I pulled the bike to Denver from GA.
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I recently pulled my '96 750 Nighthawk out to Denver. Partially to escape
the 100-degree heat, I rode it up into the mountains. The bike stalled in a
little town in the mountains, and when I went to start it, I had no neutral
light even when it was in neutral and pushing the starter button did
Kyle, would that be arm wrestling, Greco-Roman, or WWE?
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I've never actually done it, but somebody once told me to remove an engine,
disconnect everything, put down cushions on the garage floor, and lay the
bike over on its side.
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I like that "heavy" next to the engine. That's what I was thinking...
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Wow, you are in deep for sure. Just keep thinking about how proud you will
be when you get it back on the road.
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Are you still in LA Javier?
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Got a favorite?
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Is there any dressing recommended for o-rings in the coolant system? Do I
just rub a little coolant on them, put them in, and tighten down?
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I've replaced the valve cover gasket and all four turn signal stems on my '96
after 60k miles. Other than normal maintenance, that's about it.
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I've cleaned carbs a lot of times but only broken the rack once to replace
the o-rings in the fuel tubes. I used the o-rings from the millimeter set
of nitrile o-rings at Harbor Freight. The tiniest ones also work well on
the mixture screws in the carbs. I fixed the carbs and had 100 o-rings
If the carbs are completely dry for a while, the seals will shrink and leak a
bit. This may go away as the o-rings naturally "rehydrate" with fresh gas.
Allen told me this a few years ago when I experienced this problem and he was
right. This year I'm starting them up every week or two and all
Graham, why don't you just send him the faceplate? About postage, I had a
56 liter top case sent all the way from Italy to the US. The shipping was
not a big deal because it wasn't that heavy. For a faceplate, I suspect
it's a non-issue. Just my two cents.
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You're getting closer, narrowing it down.
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You say "Put meter on continuity to check the black wire on harness side ,
which supplies supplies 12v to reg/rectifier from ignition switch."
Does the reg/rectifier receive 12v from the ignition switch? What would it
do with current? Again, the job of the rectifier is to change AC from the
What makes you suspicious about the slide? Not getting a good whoosh and
return?
>
>
>
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I was born and raised in the Buckeye State myself (Cleveland area), and you
will still find me at the Browns Backers bar on Sundays in brown and
orange. However, I now make my home in the Peach State and enjoy riding the
North Georgia hills on weekends. This weekend's Browns - Falcons game
If you've got that voltage AC coming out of the stator and a good battery,
you just need to pin down where you're losing voltage between the two. I
read you bought Caltric. I've been told to avoid Caltric products at all
costs. Did you test your R/R? It's a big diode. It should have roughly the
Interesting. I don't personally know what a field coil is, but on the PC
and Goldwing (at least, maybe others) you just start the bike, turn the VOM
to AC, and read the output off the 3 wires. I believe each should be around
6 volts AC. This then goes to the R/R, which changes it to DC and
I usually think in the direction stator -> battery, not the other way
around. The current starts at the stator and travels to the battery for
storage. I am currently waiting for a new R/R I ordered (a MOSFET R/R), and
when it arrives, I plan to do what is known as a "hotwire mod." This means
How many volts AC are you getting out of the three wires coming out of the
stator?
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Sorry, Tommy, just saw this. I pulled the seat and side panel and took a
look. My battery says EXT15 on top. Can't see anything on the side.
Could be something like this:
Has anyone ever, or ever heard of, putting adventure tires on a 750
Nighthawk? About 80/20 street/dirt. Thinking about taking the old girl down
into Baja and over into Copper Canyon in Mexico. Can you suggest a set of
tires? Adventure tires is something I know zero about.
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Sounds like you're not 100% sure that the issue lies with the stator. Pull
the plug on the stator, get the bike running, put your multimeter on AC and
check each of the 3 leads coming out of the stator for current. Ground the
multimeter to the frame. You should be getting like 6 volts coming
There are a million resources for getting your bike on the road again. The
first one is the shop manual for your bike. You need to get the engine
started, and then the bike will tell you what else needs to be done. Once
you have specific questions, post again.
Here's a checklist:
>From the way you've described it, you haven't really cleaned your carbs
very well. Don't break the rack, but take off floats, jets, vacuum pistons,
etc. Buy a bottle or two of Yamalube Carb Cleaner. It can be diluted with
water. It will not harm o-rings or other rubber parts. Heat the Yamalube
GB Cycleworks
7121 Irving St. Unit E
Westminster, CO 80030
303-412-1837
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Back in the 80's, I moved my CB550K from Cleveland, OH to Denver. I don't
believe I did anything to it regarding the carbs. I now live in Atlanta,
but I just got back from a visit to Denver on my bike yesterday. I
certainly didn't do anything to it, and it rode fine, although I never went
Mark, I'm having a little trouble understanding what you mean by "glass."
It's hard for me to picture.
Here's something I've saved from this forum from way back, maybe from Allen
even:
1. Run a clear vinyl hose out the back of the Carb Drain up to the Carb
Body.
2. Open the Drain Screw and
What Tommy said.
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My 1996 Nighthawk has screws where the pop rivets are supposed to be. I
suspect it was a victim of a Hodge mod by a PO, but I never took the
baffles out to find out. My CB550K also has holes drilled on either side of
the center exhaust hole. Neither bike sounds any different from stock. They
I was born and raised in NE Ohio. Does that count?
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mill road. Small world
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Apr 24, 2018, at 19:05, EGrider <geva...@gmail.com >
> wrote:
>
>
> Wow, if you're talking a about Lanier on Buford Highway (there is a high
> school and an elementary like across the street, but I don't know th
Wow, if you're talking a about Lanier on Buford Highway (there is a high
school and an elementary like across the street, but I don't know the
middle school), I could throw a stone from my house and hit it.
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Hi Corey. I live in the Atlanta area, Suwanee to be exact.
I had pressure in my clutch handle 5 minutes after I rebuilt the slave
cylinder, and here's how you do it.
Go to Walmart with $3.37 and buy yourself a MixMizer syringe.
The next thing you have to do is swap the two CDI boxes and see if this
flips the problem to the opposite cylinders. I've never owned a 550
Nighthawk but I had several 1984 V30 Magnas, and I had to get new CDI boxes
for one of them. These play the role of the distributors of old. They are
Sean, I've been thinking about your post. I've got 60,000 miles on my '96
750, and I've never had anything wrong with it to speak of. So I'm
wondering how much you've been relying on mechanics.
I've had my bike in all four corners of the US, but I hesitate to take it
on another long trip
When I have that kind of question I usually go to Partzilla, Bike Bandit,
or any supplier that has schematic drawings and look to see if the left and
right have the same part number. If they do, you know know they are
interchangeable.
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Bizarre. Maybe the bean counters at Keihin got to the engineers those years.
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Really? I've never seen a set of floats that were 100% plastic.
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And about the petcock, Tommy's right: There really needs to be some type of
valve. Even if it one of those plastic valves they sell at Advance,
AutoZone, etc, there need to be an shutoff between the tank and the carbs.
Oh, and by the way, who sold his Nighthawks? Wasn't me...
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Really? What would prevent you from bending the tab that holds the needle
valve for adjustments? This is how it's done, right?
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You say you're getting voltage, but you don't say where you tested. If you
tested before the coil, swap your coils and see if the problem changes to
the two outside ones. Aren't the coils 1-4 and 2-3? That would explain it.
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I tried to start my '78 the other day after a couple of months of sleep and
it was dumping gas on the transmission, so I'm up against this, too. This
is not the first time.
You say you put in "new needles and rings." I understand the new needles
part, but I'm wondering what rings you put in.
I rode one at a local shop a year or so ago. I thought as you do that it
would be a logical replacement and upgrade for my Nighthawk. One ride
killed that for me. Besides the fact that it felt too tall for me (29"
inseam), it had way too buzz and rattle. I understand the engineers mounted
the
Wasn't there a problem that was almost impossible to fix on these things
without tearing the engine apart? Was it the starter? Is this a deal?
https://atlanta.craigslist.org/sat/mcy/d/honda-nighthawk/6525298618.html
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>
> Do you know this site? He has videos on top and bottom end rebuilds.
>
https://www.howtomotorcyclerepair.com/
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You can find a PDF of the Honda Service Manual here:
htttp://www.glennevanish.com/manual
Just click the top link to view or download the service manual. The bottom
link is the manual common to all Honda bikes in case you need it.
I don't have the Clymers for your bike.
Glenn
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Joey, you made my Facebook today. When did you move to Atlanta?
And yes, my next MC trip is to Mexico.
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By the way, Javier knows all about how I feel about locking up the front
brake.
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This is fun, but there's no way it is real (although I haven't verified
this with snopes). I've been reading the work of Japanese writers and
translators since 1989 as a writing teacher and proofreader, so I'm
familiar with all their mistakes, and they would never ever write like
this. There
I just recently did this with boots from 1978. Just 10 minutes in hot
water. Not a long term solution, but it helped get the carbs past the
collector box. The bike fired up fine after that, so that was enough to
satisfy me.
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Wow, I must be a victim of early-onset Alzheimers. I don't remember ever
seeing a cap on NGKs. I just went out to the garage and checked a box with
a fresh DPR8EA-9, and there was nothing in it but the plug. Maybe I threw
it away? There’s a sign post up ahead. You’re now entering—The Twilight
I've got one in PDF for an '84 if that helps. No idea about the USA/Canada
part of your question.
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Guys, since you’re on the subject of spark plug wires, I’ve bought two used
bikes in my life that had new spark plug wires. Both of them required the
little screw-on caps on the top of the spark plug, unlike the original
wires on the bikes. Why is this? Do those caps have a purpose other
"President Mama" seat - no check
top case - no check
It's still a Goldwing.
Maybe the marketing department told engineering that the guys who can
afford these and trips across the country these days are single again and
need a cheaper sticker price. I would like to know the difference
Looks like a slight redesign of the F6B, doesn't it?
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> The tail light sensor, is there to let folks know when you apply the
brake & are braking
I'm confused. That to me describes the tail light itself, which is of
course important. Not the sensor.
Right. That is pretty much the function of the tail light. There is also a
tail light switch that
You can also get pinholes that way. I've got a tank in the garage
(different bike) that looks great but won't hold gas. Be careful.
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Incorrect. The hi/lo beam switch is on the left-hand control pod on pretty
much every motorcycle I'm familiar with. However, the power for the
headlight goes through the start switch on the right-hand control pod. This
is how the headlight automatically goes out when you hit the start button.
When my headlights have quit working (happened on two different bikes), I
traced the line from the battery to the fuse box, up to the right handlebar
pod, over to the bright/dim switch, and then up to the headlight. I used a
paper clip to jump the connections when they were disconnected after
Kurt, do you have any recommendations on sync tools liquid vs. needle type?
I need one that would sync both 4-cylinder and 2-cylinder bikes. Thanks.
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We arrive in Milano on June 25.
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