[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Hello Nighthawk Riders

[EGrider]

Definitely different from the days when Allen Thomas was fielding 
everybody's questions. 

Thank you and good luck to Paul, Kyle, Joey, and Javier, four members I've 
met face-to-face through this group. I still have my Nighthawk and ride it 
from time to time, but my Pacific Coast and my NC700X have become my long 
distance bikes.

As for information dissemination, there does seem to be a Facebook group 
for every kind of motorcycle out there, and I've joined one for each model 
I own.  The how-to videos on YouTube cover just about anything I've wanted 
to know. I was up till 2AM last night watching a video on how to do a 
complete a top-end job on a CB550, for example, which I'm getting ready to 
attempt, considering what the shops want for doing it.

Again, thanks and good luck to Paul and all of you! 

Glenn

On Monday, March 27, 2023 at 10:35:56 AM UTC-4 Paul LeBoutillier wrote:

> I've noticed that this motorcycle email list has become increasingly 
> inactive, therefore, unless I hear from someone on this list who is willing 
> to take over the management of it, I will be closing it down in one week's 
> time.
>
> Thanks for all the great participation over the years.
>
> Paul
> paul@gmail.com
>

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 650 Shaft Drive Dies After Riding For 15 minutes

[EGrider]

Leland, I had the same problem you describe. The petcock filter in the gas 
tank was plugged. It would slowly let enough gas into the bowls to allow me 
to go down the road a bit before running out of gas. Then after giving it 
some time, enough gas would make it to the carbs for another go. Cleaning 
the petcock filter fixed the problem.

Glenn

On Sunday, April 11, 2021 at 10:27:38 PM UTC-4 Leland Hardy wrote:

> Every time I put the 1985 Honda Nighthawk 650 with shaft drive on the 
> highway, after about 10 minutes in OD the bike dies as if it's run out of 
> gas.  I pull over to the shoulder, wait 2-3 minute  and it starts and runs 
> perfectly for another 10 - 15 minutes before dying again.  Has anyone 
> experienced this? 
>
> Any ideas?  The symptom is 100% identical to running out of your main gas 
> tank and having to flip your petcock to reserve. This is deadly dangerous.  
> I had to stop on a highway with no shoulder and with big rigs runnin’ hard 
> right next to me.
>
> Leland
>
>
> -- 
> --
>
> Leland Hardy
> Co-Founder and Director
> The Dyslexia Awareness Foundation
> www.DyslexiaAwarenessFoundation.org 
> 
> (917) 912-0603
> (323) 816-3790
>
>

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Just bought 1984 nighthawk 650 that's making noise and not running correctly

[EGrider]

There's this: http://xjbikes.wikidot.com/the-list

On Sunday, September 27, 2020 at 10:51:17 PM UTC-4 aaronp...@yahoo.com 
wrote:

> Okay I connected the airbox carb boots then flushed the clutch fluid and 
> took it around the neighborhood. And it felt really smooth with a lot of 
> power compared to that 82 cb450 I rode but all the bike needs I think is 
> just tires and fork seals to get on the road. If anybody has ideas for what 
> I need to replace before riding it let me know thanks for everything. Also 
> if remember I'll add another sound clip of it running tomorrow just to make 
> sure everything sounds normal.
>

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] 650SC Clutch Feel

[EGrider]

 *Does anyone have recommendations on where to source quality rebuild kits? 
I'm guessing Honda Genuine isn't always necessary?*

I rebuilt my master and slave with kits from Emgo a few years back and have 
not had any issues since.
On Friday, September 25, 2020 at 12:23:51 PM UTC-4 William Woodman wrote:

> I'll check it out again and see. I had cleaned it a few months back when I 
> bled the clutch, but I'll do it again just to see.
>
> I also think once I lay the bike up for the winter I'm going to go ahead 
> and take apart the slave cylinder. I just watched this video and it seems 
> like the bike being 40 years old is probably due for a cylinder rebuild. 
> https://motorcyclemd.com/motorcycle-clutch-slave-cylinder-rebuild/
>
> Does anyone have recommendations on where to source quality rebuild kits? 
> I'm guessing Honda Genuine isn't always necessary?
>
> On Friday, September 25, 2020 at 10:44:43 AM UTC-5 kiwinPA wrote:
>
>> Yep, I agree with Kyle. If you’ve never cleaned the reservoir and clutch 
>> master cylinder you probably should/will have to
>>
>> On Fri, Sep 25, 2020 at 10:55 AM Kyle Munz  wrote:
>>
>>> My clutch levers have always come back to the grip but the clutch 
>>> disengages way before I get to the grip. You may need to bleed it again, 
>>> the hydraulic clutch on these bikes is notoriously difficult to get all the 
>>> air out of the line. Most of us use a mityvac to do it.
>>>
>>> -Kyle 
>>>
>>>
>>> On Fri, Sep 25, 2020 at 9:36 AM William Woodman  
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Hey there everyone. I have a 1983 Nighthawk 650 that I've been working 
 on since early this summer.

 So far I've not had much maintenance to do as I picked up the bike with 
 relatively low miles (4700) and no mechanical issues to take care of 
 besides general deferred maintenance.

 Oil change, brakes, fork seals and some chewed up wiring in the tail 
 light harness.

 I've done a few mods also if anyone is interested in how they turned 
 out please ask. I have changed the headlight to an LED bulb, installed 
 Progressive fork springs and Progressive 430 Rear shocks.

 However today I'm wondering after reading the service manual that Honda 
 advised it shouldn't be possible to pull the clutch lever all the way to 
 the grip if it is functioning correctly. Currently my bike has a clutch 
 lever that I can pull all the way to the grip and disengages the clutch 
 fairly close to the grip. Is this similar to other members 650sc?

 I'm wondering if I need to work on the clutch slave or master cylinder 
 as I had changed and bled the fluid a few months ago.

 If anyone else could describe whether this is normal or not clutch feel 
 I'd appreciate it. Thank you!








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 .



>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 84 nighthawk 650 electrical problem (tachometre, gear, oil, fuel tank, neutral)

[EGrider]

I had a similar problem that I fixed by changing the diode on the wiring 
harness. On a 1984 V30 Magna, it was a little plug-in unit under the seat. 
Take a look at the wiring harness diagram for your bike on Partzilla or 
similar and see if you can't locate it. Then use the part number to search 
the Internet. You may have additional questions, but I just told you all I 
know. HTH

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1996 RC42

[EGrider]

I remember seeing bikes with that body style in Europe.

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 91' Nighthawk 750 Neutral Indicator Not Working Properly

[EGrider]

Mission accomplished!

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 10 Years Ago Today

[EGrider]

Javier, sorry to hear you got stranded, but Boulder is a lot better than 
Westminster, no? When you have your bike, you can do Boulder Canyon and Rocky 
Mountain National Park, two great rides. Take care.

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Relive - free app to archive your rides

[EGrider]

Guys, do you know about this free app? Here's what it did with my ride 
today.

https://www.relive.cc/view/vYvrDeNMVx6

Nighthawk content: I did the ride on my Nighthawk.

I think this is pretty fun. If this topic is too far afield, Joey and Kyle 
please 86 it.

Thanks!

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Volts at highway speed?

[EGrider]

When I'm on the Interstate, my 96 Nighthawk750  reads 14.6 volts. My other 
bikes read about 13.6. I'm wondering if this is normal. Those of you with 
2nd generation Nighthawks, what does yours read? I'm wondering if me R/R is 
failing, or should I relax. Thanks.

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 10 Years Ago Today

[EGrider]

Hey Javier, good to hear from you. Maybe I can guess why you moved to 
Boulder?  I'm taking the Nighthawk up in the hills of No. Georgia today 
with my wife on the back - first time since the accident. Stay cool.

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: #4 cylinder not firing

[EGrider]

 Guys, I don't mean to hijack the thread, but I think I'm ready to invest 
in a proper store-bought sync tool. If you think you made a good purchase, 
can you take a minute to tell me which one you bought? Thanks, Glenn

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 10 Years Ago Today

[EGrider]

Thanks, Kyle. And Ole Yeller's still running like a champ.

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 10 Years Ago Today

[EGrider]

Oh, OK. I just remember that when Allen Thomas passed, Paul told us when he 
joined the group. I didn't know if you could see that like Paul, but I 
guess not. Or maybe Paul knew that some other way.

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 10 Years Ago Today

[EGrider]

Hey Joey, how've you been? Do you guys have the date I joined available? 
I'm feeling like it's probably going on 10 years.

Glenn 

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 91' Nighthawk 750 Neutral Indicator Not Working Properly

[EGrider]

Ok, I can't find it either. I've looked and looked at the fiches, and I 
give up. I don't remember how I found it, last summer but I'm attaching a 
picture of it for you from the shop manual. If I were you, I would call 
Partzilla or whomever you usually use, even your local dealer if you like, 
and tell them you need a neutral switch. That picture is from page 16-8 of 
the shop manual. Let them find it. They're the pros.

To replace it, take off the left cover like you're going to change the 
chain. The neutral switch has two bolts holding it in and one bullet 
connector. Just be sure that the new one you put in is in the same position 
as the one you took out so that the switch registers neutral when the bike 
is in neutral.

You know, it might not be a bad idea to just locate it on your bike now, 
clean the connector, and put some dielectric grease on it. Maybe you can 
get away cheap.

My bike has to be in neutral to start, which usually means the clutch 
switch is hosed. So I paid $60 for a 10 cent piece of plastic and that 
didn't fix it, so I must have screwed up the wires into it when I put the 
Ram mount on my bars. Bigger fish to fry for now. At least I don't have to 
bump start the bike when it heats up anymore - that's the main thing.

Anyway, good luck.

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 91' Nighthawk 750 Neutral Indicator Not Working Properly

[EGrider]

The kickstand has its own switch.

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 91' Nighthawk 750 Neutral Indicator Not Working Properly

[EGrider]

They are one and the same.

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 91' Nighthawk 750 Neutral Indicator Not Working Properly

[EGrider]

I had the situation where my bike would start up fine, but after it warmed 
up it would not. I can't remember if the neutral light came on or not, but 
I could not start it with the starter button, even with the clutch pulled 
in. I changed the neutral indicator switch by the left foot peg and the 
problem disappeared. 

On Tuesday, June 18, 2019 at 1:50:30 AM UTC-4, Brian wrote:
>
> Hi Guys,
>
> My neutral light started giving me issues the other day.  The bike started 
> up and went just fine. Going into neutral with light on with no issues.  
> Then I went for an hour ride came backed, worked on the bike for a few 
> minutes and then tried to take off again and I had a VERY hard time getting 
> the neutral light to stay on.  The bike felt like it was in neutral but the 
> light would not stay on.  I had to play with the shifter for 2 or 3 minutes 
> before the light would stay on.  I replaced the little rectifier under the 
> seat and that did not fix it.
>
> Does anyone have any ideas?
>
> Thanks for the help in advance!!
>
>
> Brian
>

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 84 650 carbs dump fuel

[EGrider]

I hope that helps somebody. It wasn't original. It was something I 
copy-paste-saved from this mailing list back in the day, maybe from Allen 
Thomas, God rest his soul.

One thing I can add personally, because I figured it out on my bike. After 
the winter, I would try to start it up and it would dump gas on my 
transmission. One year I took the carbs off and cleaned them, and it still 
did it afterward. Then I realized that the Advance Auto Parts clear gas 
hose I had put on it (I didn't trust the petcock to shut off completely and 
I wanted to see the gas) would dry out over the winter with no gas in it 
and leak at where the line joined the carbs between #1 and #2. 

Now, you may not be using clear gas line at all, but it is important to 
know where the gas is really leaking from. If I had realized it was just 
from a vinyl line that had gotten hard, I could have saved myself a bunch 
of work taking the damn things off for no good reason.


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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 84 650 carbs dump fuel

[EGrider]

 

Run a clear vinyl hose out the back of the Carb Drain up to the Carb Body.

Open the Drain Screw and watch the level of fuel in the vinyl hose.

The Fuel Level should be even with the bottom of the lock washer on the 
Fuel Bowl Screws holding the Bowl to the Body.


If it isn't, your needle valve is not seating or your non-adjustable float 
is out of adjustment.

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 83 Nighthawk 550 Many Problems

[EGrider]

If you have no pressure as Graham asked, try this.
1. Turn a 5-gallon bucket upside down by your caliper.
2. Put a jar of old brake fluid on the bucket. If you don't have that, use 
a half-jar of water.
3. Get some plastic hose. Put one end on the bleeder valve on your bike and 
the other end in the liquid. You may want to use tape to make sure the hose 
stays in the jar.
4. Open your master cylinder cap. Make sure there's enough fluid in it so 
you won't run out and introduce air into the line.
5. Loosen the bleeder valve a little. Do this with the hose still on on it. 
6. Start squeezing the hand brake.You should see some bubbles coming out of 
the caliper.
7. Keep squeezing the brake lever and adding clean brake fluid to the 
reservoir until no more bubbles are coming out.
8. Tighten the bleeder valve. 
9. Squeezing the brake lever should get tight now. It means there's no air 
in the line anymore. You can take the hose off.
10. Top off the master cylinder to the correct level and put the lid back 
on.

On my dual-front brake bikes, I just use two buckets and do one and then 
the other until the lever tightens up.

Remember that brake fluid is a great paint remover. Make sure there is no 
way any brake fluid could possibly drip on a painted surface. I use a 
painter's drop cloth for protection. Good luck.

Glenn

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: engine fume vent box that runs from behind the cylinders to the air box...........

[EGrider]

I don't know, but it sounds like your question is about the engine to the 
air box, and Kyle's answer is from the air box to the ground. On my bikes, 
I just pull off the hose since it's only held on by clips and take a look. 
Considering the diameter of the hose, it's hard to see it plugging. It's 
only a ventilation hose, AFAIK.

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Master cylinder repair

[EGrider]

The order is clear from the diagram. Since the piston is spring-loaded, can 
you push it in a bit until the circlip locks in?

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Charging/Electrical Issue

[EGrider]

Your first step should be to just have your battery checked at Advance Auto 
Parts.

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Nighthawk parts

[EGrider]

All are available on partzilla.com.

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Battery

[EGrider]

If you do need to change it, I just put a new battery in my Nighthawk. The 
one I took out was market 8/2011. Yes, it lasted 8 years! It was a Deka

 

>

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Ol' Yeller does Baja

[EGrider]

I feel ya, but the PC800 does have more secure cargo space, especially with the 
56L top case. Important when leaving the bike parked in cities. 

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Ol' Yeller does Baja

[EGrider]

1. What tools/spare parts did you bring?

Not too much. Tire repair kit, air compressor, extra oil (it uses some), 
ratchet with 10-17mm sockets, allen wrenches, tire pressure gauge, 
electrical tape, scissors, razor knife, fuses, cigarette lighter digital 
volt meter

2. You mention at the end of the slideshow that you were never in fear for 
your personal safety, but did you ever fear something like, "holy hell, if 
I break down out here there is a good chance I might die..."?

No. I was with Louie when his bike broke down, and the first pickup truck 
that came by offered to take the bike the 24 miles north to the first 
settlement.Then I hear that a cargo truck took him and the bike 75 miles 
back to San Felipe, where they helped him to find a mechanic and refused to 
take any money. You hear about gang-on-gang violence on TV and tend to see 
the whole place as lawless, but this was about my 10th trip to Mexico, and 
I have always found them to be the kindest and most human people you could 
ever hope to meet. 

And when I laid the bike down in that stream across the road, I looked up 
and there was a truck full of Mexican cops right there! I don't know how it 
happened because I never saw any cops while I was riding. But just as I 
thought "I hope I can pick this thing up," they picked it up for me, walked 
it across, waded through and told me where the least-slippery track to take 
was, etc. They couldn't have been nicer.

3. How many miles are on your buddies bike? I thought beamers were supposed 
to be really reliable. Was it one issue that kept repeating or multiple 
issues?

It was a 2002 with 30K miles. Since I was on a 1996 with over 60K miles, 
you'd think I'd be the one breaking down. The bike actually started acting 
up in New Mexico. The word from the mechanic was that it was a combination 
of the starter solenoid and a connection at the ignition switch. Why his 
"fix" resulted in it getting towed back to him 50 miles down the road again 
I'm not sure. Next was a chain that was so stretched out that he had a link 
removed. That got him back to the US. Then I heard it was chain, sprocket, 
and back wheel bearing. 

In August, I rented a BMW F700GS for 3 weeks and really loved the bike. I 
seriously thought about buying one for the trip, but I became convinced 
that my bike could make it, and that turned out to be right. The guy who 
rented me had a whole barn of Beemers, and I asked him about general 
perception of reliability of beemers, and he just laughed.

I saw a ranking of reliability a while back on one of the motorcycle 
websites, and they had BMWs and Harleys tied for like 8th place. No. ! went 
to Yamaha, with Honda and Suzuki tied for 2nd.

4. At the 1:39 mark, what exactly was going on with those ladies? More 
specifically, can you forward me any and all high resolution photos you may 
have of the incident so I may investigate???

You know, I take most of my pictures with no zoom because the only thing I 
can see in daylight when I try to frame a shot is my own nose reflected 
back at me. I crop later. So I didn't really see what was going on while I 
was taking that shot. I looked at it later and thought "what exactly was 
going on with those ladies?" like you.  "Girls gone wild," I guess.

Glenn

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Ol' Yeller does Baja

[EGrider]

Don, feel free to ask me anything about the trip, and I hope you get a chance 
to do it also someday.

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Ol' Yeller does Baja

[EGrider]

Thanks, Kyle. I thought about you as I cruised through Houston - both ways.

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Honda cb550 nighthawk 1984?

[EGrider]

The first letter of the VIN will tell you where it was made. J = Japan, 1 = 
US, 2 = Canada. This is how I learned my Buick was made in Canada.

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Turn signalcancel unit

[EGrider]

I can tell you that on a PC800, which does self-cancel, it is located in the 
"neck" of the frame above the front wheel so that it can turn with the 
handlebars to sense the direction of the bike. It works in conjunction with a 
speed sensor behind the speedometer pod so that it doesn't turn off at red 
lights when the bike is stopped.

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Starter doesn't work...oh wait, it does

[EGrider]

Quick update for anyone who may experience what I did. Changing the neutral 
switch fixed the sometimes yes/ sometimes no problem for starting. The 
neutral light always comes on and the bike always starts now. However, it 
must still be in neutral to start. My local bike shop says this is simply a 
bad clutch switch on the handlebar. I ordered one of those but it hasn't 
arrived yet.  

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Starter doesn't work...oh wait, it does

[EGrider]

Kyle,that sounds pretty different. The 90s bikes have no gear indicator, and 
the neutral switch has a single bullet connector. I added some dielectric 
grease and took it for a ride to heat it up. Better, but the neutral light 
still went off right after coming on sometimes. I went ahead and ordered a new 
switch; let's see if that changes anything.

I'm planning a trip to Cabo San Lucas and I don't want to take the PC, so I 
brought Ol' Yeller out of moth balls.

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Starter doesn't work...oh wait, it does

[EGrider]

Yes, that's normal. If your engine stopped when you put down the side stand 
while in neutral, as mine sometimes does, you would consider it abnormal, I 
suppose.

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Starter doesn't work...oh wait, it does

[EGrider]

>
> I'll follow up my own post and say that the issue seems to be a faulty 
> neutral indicator. When the problem occurs, the neutral indicator light 
> refuses to come on even when the bike is in neutral. Putting the side stand 
> down stops the motor at that time.
>

Now, one should be able to start the engine in even when it is in gear by 
pulling in the clutch, but my bike stopped doing that.

This is not the first Honda I've had that needed to be in neutral to start.

Has anyone fixed that problem? What caused it? Does this also point to a 
faulty neutral indicator light?

Glenn

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Starter doesn't work...oh wait, it does

[EGrider]

Tommy, you thought correctly. I pulled the bike to Denver from GA.

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Starter doesn't work...oh wait, it does

[EGrider]

I recently pulled my '96 750 Nighthawk out to Denver. Partially to escape 
the 100-degree heat, I rode it up into the mountains. The bike stalled in a 
little town in the mountains, and when I went to start it, I had no neutral 
light even when it was in neutral and pushing the starter button did 
nothing. I rolled it down a hill, bump started it, and rode it back to 
Denver in a panic. 

When I got to Denver, I turned it off and tried to restart it. No change in 
situation.Put a new $100 battery in it for the trip, and the voltmeter 
showed it was charging. 

Two hours later after a bite to eat, I tried it again. Neutral light came 
on and bike started right up. I was naturally relieved, but now I'm 
wondering if the problem won't resurface.

 I'm think neutral indicator switch? But that shouldn't matter as long as 
the clutch is engaged, which it was. 

Any ideas?

Glenn


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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Replacing exhaust

[EGrider]

Kyle, would that be arm wrestling, Greco-Roman, or WWE?

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: The Neverending Story

[EGrider]

I've never actually done it, but somebody once told me to remove an engine, 
disconnect everything, put down cushions on the garage floor, and lay the 
bike over on its side.

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: The Neverending Story

[EGrider]

I like that "heavy" next to the engine. That's what I was thinking...

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: The Neverending Story

[EGrider]

Wow, you are in deep for sure. Just keep thinking about how proud you will 
be when you get it back on the road.

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Rear shocks

[EGrider]

Are you still in LA Javier? 

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Changing o-rings in the coolant system

[EGrider]

Got a favorite?

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Changing o-rings in the coolant system

[EGrider]

Is there any dressing recommended for o-rings in the coolant system? Do I 
just rub a little coolant on them, put them in, and tighten down?

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Some general questions about the last gen 750 NHawk

[EGrider]

I've replaced the valve cover gasket and all four turn signal stems on my '96 
after 60k miles. Other than normal maintenance, that's about it.

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carbs started leaking out of the blue.

[EGrider]

I've cleaned carbs a lot of times but only broken the rack once to replace 
the o-rings in the fuel tubes. I used the o-rings from the millimeter set 
of nitrile o-rings at Harbor Freight. The tiniest ones also work well on 
the mixture screws in the carbs.  I fixed the carbs and had 100 o-rings 
left for $5 or so. Such a deal. 

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Carbs started leaking out of the blue.

[EGrider]

If the carbs are completely dry for a while, the seals will shrink and leak a 
bit. This may go away as the o-rings naturally "rehydrate" with fresh gas. 
Allen told me this a few years ago when I experienced this problem and he was 
right. This year I'm starting them up every week or two and all is well. It's 
also reminded me how fast gas evaporates from a "closed" gas tank, as now I'm 
checking.

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Changing Km/h speedo faceplate to MPH

[EGrider]

Graham, why don't you just send him the faceplate? About postage, I had a 
56 liter top case sent all the way from Italy to the US. The shipping was 
not a big deal because it wasn't that heavy. For a faceplate, I suspect 
it's a non-issue. Just my two cents.

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Charging issues

[EGrider]

You're getting closer, narrowing it down.

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Charging issues

[EGrider]

You say "Put meter on continuity to check the black wire on harness side , 
which supplies supplies 12v to reg/rectifier from ignition switch." 

Does the reg/rectifier receive 12v from the ignition switch? What would it 
do with current? Again, the job of the rectifier is to change AC from the 
stator to DC. The job of the regulator is to take excess voltage from the 
stator and bring it down to 14v so it doesn't cook your system and battery. 
Cooked batteries are a symptom of bad reg/rectifiers, right?

The reg/rectifier, at least on magnet bikes, is a diode that allows current 
out from the stator but not in from the battery. That's why you test them 
by getting continuity in one direction and then flip the poles to get no 
continuity. If you get it, the reg/rectifier is bad.

Now granted, the reg/rectifier on the harness side has to have continuity 
with the rest of the system, regardless of which way current is flowing. I 
just checked and I don't have a manual for your bike, but if the wiring 
diagram shows the ignition switch connected to the reg/rectifier, then 
obviously you will have to go section by section (if there are sections) to 
find the break.

I'm wondering if bikes with field coils send current to them via the 
reg/rectifier? No idea.

I have a flowchart for checking MC charging systems in PDF that I'm sending 
you by PM. I hope it helps.


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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: First new to me 750

[EGrider]

What makes you suspicious about the slide? Not getting a good whoosh and 
return?
>
>
>

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Charging issues

[EGrider]

I was born and raised in the Buckeye State myself (Cleveland area), and you 
will still find me at the Browns Backers bar on Sundays in brown and 
orange. However, I now make my home in the Peach State and enjoy riding the 
North Georgia hills on weekends. This weekend's Browns - Falcons game poses 
a dilemma for me. Sorry all, off-topic post, but Darin asked. 

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Charging issues

[EGrider]

If you've got that voltage AC coming out of the stator and a good battery, 
you just need to pin down where you're losing voltage between the two. I 
read you bought Caltric. I've been told to avoid Caltric products at all 
costs. Did you test your R/R? It's a big diode. It should have roughly the 
same voltage on each of the 3 pins but zero connectivity going the opposite 
direction when you reverse the leads on your VOM.

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Charging issues

[EGrider]

Interesting. I don't personally know what a field coil is, but on the PC 
and Goldwing (at least, maybe others) you just start the bike, turn the VOM 
to AC, and read the output off the 3 wires. I believe each should be around 
6 volts AC. This then goes to the R/R, which changes it to DC and dumps 
excess current as heat. PCs have a lot of charging system issues since the 
stock R/Rs have no cooling fins and are tucked away under the tupperware 
without good air flow. I'm changing to a MOSFET with fins as preventive 
maintenance, but I'm retaining the original wiring so that I can just plug 
my OEM R/R on the road in a pinch. I do a lot of long-distance trips, and 
the PC is great for that if it keeps running. Other than the electrical 
issues, they are 100K mile bikes. But this is the Nighthawk forum. I still 
have my Nighthawk, a lighter, nimbler, peppier bike. 

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Charging issues

[EGrider]

I usually think in the direction stator -> battery, not the other way 
around. The current starts at the stator and travels to the battery for 
storage. I am currently waiting for a new R/R I ordered (a MOSFET R/R), and 
when it arrives, I plan to do what is known as a "hotwire mod."  This means 
that the output from the R/R goes directly to the battery (with a 30A fuse 
in between) instead of going through the entire wire harness. 

This is on a PC800, not a CB700, but the principle should apply.


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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Charging issues

[EGrider]

How many volts AC are you getting out of the three wires coming out of the 
stator?

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: First new to me 750

[EGrider]

Sorry, Tommy, just saw this. I pulled the seat and side panel and took a 
look. My battery says EXT15 on top. Can't see anything on the side.
Could be something like this: 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Deka-ETX15L-Replacement-Motorcycle-battery-Replacement-by-SigmasTek/323332211007?epid=655773312=item4b481a013f:g:89EAAOSw44xZezri:rk:1:pf:0=mtr

Glenn

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Adventure tires for NH750

[EGrider]

Has anyone ever, or ever heard of, putting adventure tires on a 750 
Nighthawk? About 80/20 street/dirt. Thinking about taking the old girl down 
into Baja and over into Copper Canyon in Mexico. Can you suggest a set of 
tires? Adventure tires is something I know zero about.

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Charging Issue (Source a Stator)

[EGrider]

Sounds like you're not 100% sure that the issue lies with the stator. Pull 
the plug on the stator, get the bike running, put your multimeter on AC and 
check each of the 3 leads coming out of the stator for current. Ground the 
multimeter to the frame. You should be getting like 6 volts coming out of 
each lead. If you are, it's not the stator at all. I bought one from Ricks 
one time and never used it; still in my garage. I take it with me on long 
trips, just in case. 

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Introduction and quick question

[EGrider]

There are a million resources for getting your bike on the road again. The 
first one is the shop manual for your bike. You need to get the engine 
started, and then the bike will tell you what else needs to be done. Once 
you have specific questions, post again.

Here's a checklist:

http://xjbikes.wikidot.com/the-list


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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: '83 HONDA NIGHTHAWK 650 WON'T START (LOW COMPRESSION)

[EGrider]

>From the way you've described it, you haven't really cleaned your carbs 
very well. Don't break the rack, but take off floats, jets, vacuum pistons, 
etc. Buy a bottle or two of Yamalube Carb Cleaner. It can be diluted with 
water. It will not harm o-rings or other rubber parts. Heat the Yamalube 
bottle in boiling water to heat it up and then soak the barb bodies in 
that. I do one end of the rack overnight, reheat, do the other 1/2. Then 
swish the rack in a bucket of water an blow out all the passages with 
compressed air. Be sure to blow out the jet in the bowl that is not 
removable. For a long time I thought there were only 2 jets and wondered 
why my bike needed started fluid to start. Sorry Kyle, but if you don't 
remove the caps you cannot possibly blow out the port that requires the 
bulge in the caps. Only when you feel air blowing out the other end of 
every orifice can you say that your carbs are clean.

There may also be spark issues, but just cleaning removable jets and bowls 
will not do it. Try the Yamalube for a complete clean without separating 
your carbs.And don't throw it away--you can use it again and again.

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: ‘86 CB650 in Altitude

[EGrider]

 

GB Cycleworks


7121 Irving St. Unit E

Westminster, CO 80030


303-412-1837

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: ‘86 CB650 in Altitude

[EGrider]

Back in the 80's, I moved my CB550K from Cleveland, OH to Denver. I don't 
believe I did anything to it regarding the carbs. I now live in Atlanta, 
but I just got back from a visit to Denver on my bike yesterday. I 
certainly didn't do anything to it, and it rode fine, although I never went 
farther into the high country than Evergreen. After you ride your bike for 
a while, check the spark plugs. If they are black from running too rich, 
you should adjust the mixture screws to lean the air/gas mixture. I believe 
this is done by turning them in, or tightening them. If you've never done 
this, the manual of YouTube can help out. 

BTW, I had a little trouble with my bike while I was there this time, and I 
found a guy in Westminster who works on old bikes, although he seems to 
work pretty slowly so he's got bikes coming out his ears in the shop. If 
you would like his number, let me know, although I just got it by calling 
Sun and asking if they knew anyone who worked on older bikes. You can do 
the same.

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: So I’ve just started having a mechanical issue

[EGrider]

Mark, I'm having a little trouble understanding what you mean by "glass." 
It's hard for me to picture.

Here's something I've saved from this forum from way back, maybe from Allen 
even:

1. Run a clear vinyl hose out the back of the Carb Drain up to the Carb 
Body.

2. Open the Drain Screw and watch the level of fuel in the vinyl hose.

3. Adjust the Float Height so that the Fuel Level is even with the bottom 
of the lock washer on the Fuel Bowl Screws holding the Bowl to the Body.


Is this different from what you're saying?



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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: no spark 700

[EGrider]

What Tommy said.

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Random Muffler question....

[EGrider]

My 1996 Nighthawk has screws where the pop rivets are supposed to be. I 
suspect it was a victim of a Hodge mod by a PO, but I never took the 
baffles out to find out. My CB550K also has holes drilled on either side of 
the center exhaust hole. Neither bike sounds any different from stock. They 
probably thought the bikes would sound better, go faster, etc with these 
holes drilled. They don't.

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: NE Ohio riders?

[EGrider]

I was born and raised in NE Ohio. Does that count?

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Any Georgia folk here?

[EGrider]

Woodword Mill is one of the backroads I test ride bikes on when I don't 
have legal tags or insurance on them. It is indeed a small world.

On Wednesday, April 25, 2018 at 9:42:49 AM UTC-4, Corey Sims wrote:
>
> Lanier high School used to be the middle school, I grew up on Woodward 
> mill road. Small world
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Apr 24, 2018, at 19:05, EGrider <geva...@gmail.com > 
> wrote:
>
>
> Wow, if you're talking a about Lanier on Buford Highway (there is a high 
> school and an elementary like across the street, but I don't know the 
> middle school), I could throw a stone from my house and hit it. 
>
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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Any Georgia folk here?

[EGrider]

Wow, if you're talking a about Lanier on Buford Highway (there is a high 
school and an elementary like across the street, but I don't know the 
middle school), I could throw a stone from my house and hit it. 

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Any Georgia folk here?

[EGrider]

Hi Corey. I live in the Atlanta area, Suwanee to be exact.

I had pressure in my clutch handle 5 minutes after I rebuilt the slave 
cylinder, and here's how you do it.

Go to Walmart with $3.37 and buy yourself a MixMizer syringe. 
https://www.walmart.com/ip/FloTool-Gas-and-Chemical-MixMizer/16889145

Fill it full of brake fluid and connect it with the tube to the bleeder 
valve at the slave. Have your reservoir cap off the master. Fill your brake 
lines from the bottom up, until your reservoir gets pretty full, then 
tighten the bleeder valve. Now you can pump the clutch lever and watch the 
bubbles come up. 

You can also put a length of tube on your bleeder valve and put the tube 
over into a little bottle of brake fluid. Loosen the bleeder and pump the 
lever, watching the reservoir so it doesn't go dry. When you no longer see 
bubbles coming out, close the valve and remove the tube.

A few more squeezes and your clutch lever should get firm.

What part of Atlanta are you in? That was a heck of an electrical storm we 
had last night.


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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Spark..

[EGrider]

The next thing you have to do is swap the two CDI boxes and see if this 
flips the problem to the opposite cylinders. I've never owned a 550 
Nighthawk but I had several 1984 V30 Magnas, and I had to get new CDI boxes 
for one of them. These play the role of the distributors of old. They are 
probably under the seat somewhere. If swapping them doesn't reverse the 
problem, then about the only thing left is the pick ups on the fly wheel. 
That's where the spark originates. You could try swapping them, but do the 
CDI's first. That's a much simpler job. 

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: My mechanic is retiring so it's time to retire my Nighthawk - NT700V thoughts?

[EGrider]

Sean, I've been thinking about your post. I've got 60,000 miles on my '96 
750, and I've never had anything wrong with it to speak of. So I'm 
wondering how much you've been relying on mechanics.

I've had my bike in all four corners of the US, but I hesitate to take it 
on another long trip because I worry that it's due for its first breakdown 
while I'm states away.

Can I ask you, what repairs have you had your mechanic do, and at what 
mileage? If I did some preventive maintenance before a trip, what should I 
change or take an extra of?

In other words, I'm wondering if you can predict my first breakdown on the 
basis of what's already happened on your bike. Your thoughts?

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Spark..

[EGrider]

When I have that kind of question I usually go to Partzilla, Bike Bandit, 
or any supplier that has schematic drawings and look to see if the left and 
right have the same part number. If they do, you know know they are 
interchangeable.

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 82 650 float valve

[EGrider]

Bizarre. Maybe the bean counters at Keihin got to the engineers those years.

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 82 650 float valve

[EGrider]

Really? I've never seen a set of floats that were 100% plastic. 

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 82 650 float valve

[EGrider]

And about the petcock, Tommy's right: There really needs to be some type of 
valve. Even if it one of those plastic valves they sell at Advance, 
AutoZone, etc, there need to be an shutoff between the tank and the carbs. 

Oh, and by the way, who sold his Nighthawks? Wasn't me...

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 82 650 float valve

[EGrider]

Really? What would prevent you from bending the tab that holds the needle 
valve for adjustments? This is how it's done, right?

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Spark..

[EGrider]

You say you're getting voltage, but you don't say where you tested. If you 
tested before the coil, swap your coils and see if the problem changes to 
the two outside ones. Aren't the coils 1-4 and 2-3? That would explain it.

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 82 650 float valve

[EGrider]

I tried to start my '78 the other day after a couple of months of sleep and 
it was dumping gas on the transmission, so I'm up against this, too. This 
is not the first time.

You say you put in "new needles and rings." I understand the new needles 
part, but I'm wondering what rings you put in. Do you mean bowl gaskets? 
O-rings between the individual carbs? 

Needle valves have no O-rings per se. They have rubber tips that seal when 
the floats raise them, hence the needle shape. New ones will seal, If you 
are leaking from the bowl overflow, it's because your floats are too high. 
Try putting a clear tube on the overflow, carb by carb, and unscrew the 
drain screw.  Here's some advice I copied from this list a few years back:

Run a clear vinyl hose out the back of the Carb Drain up to the Carb Body.

Open the Drain Screw and watch the level of fuel in the vinyl hose.

Adjust the Float Height so that the Fuel Level is even with the bottom of 
the lock washer on the Fuel Bowl Screws holding the Bowl to the Body.

You are going to have to analyze where that leak is coming from. Me, I've 
learned to fill carbs with gas after a clean while they're still on my 
bench. If they leak, I don't put them on. You may have to take yours back 
off so see what's really going on.

The other place they can leak is the fuel rail between the carbs. This will 
take new o-rings. To change them, you need to break the rack, something I'm 
personally loath to do, although I have. I have found that you can use 
O-rings from the nitrile o-ring assortment at Harbor Freight for this for 
cheap. You can also use the smallest o-ring in the assortment for the 
mixture screw. Just be sure to get the millimeter assortment.

If your carbs themselves are not leaking, then fuel is dripping down from 
the petcock or leaking from the connection into the carbs, often between 1 
and 2. Although I've never done it, people say you can drill out the rivets 
and replace the diaphragm inside your petcock, putting it back together 
with screws. I've never done it personally. Perhaps someone else can chime 
in on that. 

If your carbs are clean and synced and you have poor power above 80Km/H, 
except if you have the wrong size main jets, your issue lies elsewhere.

Hope this helps.


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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: My mechanic is retiring so it's time to retire my Nighthawk - NT700V thoughts?

[EGrider]

I rode one at a local shop a year or so ago. I thought as you do that it 
would be a logical replacement and upgrade for my Nighthawk. One ride 
killed that for me. Besides the fact that it felt too tall for me (29" 
inseam), it had way too buzz and rattle. I understand the engineers mounted 
the engine in rubber to smooth it out, but it felt cheap with a lot of 
vibration. I knew in a minute that it was not a replacement for my 
Nighthawk, and I dropped it from my Internet searches.

Of course, what you're used to can change. You may get one, grow into it, 
and like it. The only way you'll know is to test ride it. I didn't think I 
liked my Pacific Coast at first, but now I prefer it to the Nighthawk, 
something I never thought I would say. In short, give it a try, but don't 
expect it to be anything like your Nighthawk. 

People love their V-Stroms. Have you thought about going that direction?

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Starter on 1984 Nighthawk 700

[EGrider]

Wasn't there a problem that was almost impossible to fix on these things 
without tearing the engine apart? Was it the starter? Is this a deal?

https://atlanta.craigslist.org/sat/mcy/d/honda-nighthawk/6525298618.html

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Noob mistake has me searching...

[EGrider]

>
> Do you know this site? He has videos on top and bottom end rebuilds.
>

https://www.howtomotorcyclerepair.com/ 

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Looking for Owner Manual 1992 CB750

[EGrider]

You can find a PDF of the Honda Service Manual here:

htttp://www.glennevanish.com/manual

Just click the top link to view or download the service manual. The bottom 
link is the manual common to all Honda bikes in case you need it.

I don't have the Clymers for your bike.

Glenn


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[Nighthawk Lovers] Joey, you're famous!

[EGrider]

Joey, you made my Facebook today. When did you move to Atlanta?

And yes, my next MC trip is to Mexico.

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: This is hilarious!

[EGrider]

By the way, Javier knows all about how I feel about locking up the front 
brake.

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: This is hilarious!

[EGrider]

This is fun, but there's no way it is real (although I haven't verified 
this with snopes). I've been reading the work of Japanese writers and 
translators since 1989 as a writing teacher and proofreader, so I'm 
familiar with all their mistakes, and they would never ever write like 
this. There are many, many dead giveaways, but one is the use of the word 
"skid." The Japanese would NEVER use the word "skid," as they will always 
use the word "slip," which is now a Japanese word. Even the road signs in 
Japan use the word "slip."  I've been teaching them for years to say "My 
car skidded on the ice," not "My car slipped on the ice." Again, it's fun, 
but it can't be authentic.

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Soften Carb Boots...

[EGrider]

I just recently did this with boots from 1978. Just 10 minutes in hot 
water. Not a long term solution, but it helped get the carbs past the 
collector box. The bike fired up fine after that, so that was enough to 
satisfy me.

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Ignition Parts

[EGrider]

Wow, I must be a victim of early-onset Alzheimers. I don't remember ever 
seeing a cap on NGKs. I just went out to the garage and checked a box with 
a fresh DPR8EA-9, and there was nothing in it but the plug. Maybe I threw 
it away? There’s a sign post up ahead. You’re now entering—The Twilight 
Zone!

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Manual in pdf?

[EGrider]

I've got one in PDF for an '84 if that helps. No idea about the USA/Canada 
part of your question.

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Ignition Parts

[EGrider]

 

Guys, since you’re on the subject of spark plug wires, I’ve bought two used 
bikes in my life that had new spark plug wires. Both of them required the 
little screw-on caps on the top of the spark plug, unlike the original 
wires on the bikes. Why is this? Do those caps have a purpose other than to 
make the new wire boot hold on?

After looking at Kyle’s tutorial, I did a search on “resistor caps.” There 
are a lot of different types of resistor caps. How would I go about 
selecting the correct ones for a bike if I were to rebuy? Is it just a 
matter of straight vs. L-shaped? Are there levels of resistance?
The bike I’m writing about is a Pacific Coast, if it matters. I bought it 
as a parts bike, but I’ve wondered if I could get it to run. One of the 
spark plug wires just slops on and off because it’s missing a screw-on cap 
on the plug. New NGK plugs for our bikes, however, don’t include them. Dumb 
question, but should I just go to an auto parts store and ask for a little 
spark plug screw-on cap so that the resistor cap stays stuck on the plug?

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Leaked photos

[EGrider]

 

"President Mama" seat - no check
top case - no check 

It's still a Goldwing.
Maybe the marketing department told engineering that the guys who can 
afford these and trips across the country these days are single again and 
need a cheaper sticker price. I would like to know the difference between 
the 2018 Goldwing and the F6B.

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Leaked photos

[EGrider]

Looks like a slight redesign of the F6B, doesn't it?



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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

[EGrider]

> The tail light sensor, is there to let folks know when you apply the 
brake & are braking

I'm confused. That to me describes the tail light itself, which is of 
course important. Not the sensor.

Right. That is pretty much the function of the tail light. There is also a 
tail light switch that has a spring on it and is activated when you step on 
the brake pedal. But the tail light sensor tells you the tail light is not 
working, which could save your life. 

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] tank swap resources?

[EGrider]

You can also get pinholes that way. I've got a tank  in the garage 
(different bike) that looks great but won't hold gas. Be careful.

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: '84 NH 650 headlamp quite working

[EGrider]

Incorrect. The hi/lo beam switch is on the left-hand control pod on pretty 
much every motorcycle I'm familiar with. However, the power for the 
headlight goes through the start switch on the right-hand control pod. This 
is how the headlight automatically goes out when you hit the start button. 
If that connection is broken, the headlight goes out even when the start 
button is not pushed. This is what has happened to me twice for the 
different reasons I mentioned.

On Monday, July 10, 2017 at 9:27:06 PM UTC-4, Mark Miller wrote:
>
> I think I follow you, that your hi/lo beam switch is on your right-hand 
> control pod, correct?  I pretty much did the same thing with my multimeter, 
> checking current at the fuse panel before the pod is plugged in, at the 
> switch connections in the pod after connecting to the fuse panel, and the 
> headlamp modular connector (after the switch).  I'm starting to suspect 
> that maybe there is a short in the headlamp.  Something I'll look into 
> tonight.  Thanks for you thoughts!
>

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: '84 NH 650 headlamp quite working

[EGrider]

When my headlights have quit working (happened on two different bikes), I 
traced the line from the battery to the fuse box, up to the right handlebar 
pod, over to the bright/dim switch, and then up to the headlight. I used a 
paper clip to jump the connections when they were disconnected after 
verification, if that makes sense.

Both times I found the problem to be in the right handlebar pod, once 
because a solder had come undone and once because a pin had gotten bent 
when I put in the connector and was no longer entering its socket. However, 
when I had no headlight, I had no high beam light. As a matter of fact, 
before I replaced the whole right pod, I used to leave the headlight on 
high beam, as I could tell I had no headlight at all when the blue 
indicator light went out. 

Your situation is clearly different, but I would begin to troubleshoot in 
this way. I trust you've got a multimeter and a wiring diagram. 

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 CB650 Idle Mixture screws?

[EGrider]

Kurt, do you have any recommendations on sync tools liquid vs. needle type? 
I need one that would sync both 4-cylinder and 2-cylinder bikes. Thanks.

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Finding lost cellphone.

[EGrider]

We arrive in Milano on June 25.

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