Re: Stus-List Chain plate bulkheads

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Any time the words "chain plate bulkhead" and "severe decay" are used together 
I recommend replacing the bulkhead over a pour in place attempt to make it 
strong again.



If it is not possible to remove and replace the wood around the chain plate I 
have seen a suitably sized stainless steel plate the spreads the chain plate 
loads out into solid wood used.



Martin

Calypso

1971 C 43

Seattle


From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Franklin Schenk via 
CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Wednesday, April 13, 2016 11:27 AM
To: Rick Brass via CnC-List
Cc: Franklin Schenk
Subject: Stus-List Chain plate bulkheads

I am helping a friend repair the chain plate bulkheads on a 29 MKII.  Water has 
leaked for many years down the chain plates into the bulkheads.  By taping on 
the bulkheads with a hammer I can tell that the port side has severe decay 
almost down to the two lower bolts on the chain plate.  I talked to a 
professional boat repair guy and he suggested that I pour epoxy into the top of 
the bulkhead.  I doubt that the epoxy will seep down very far.  My thoughts 
were to drill a few holes into the side of the bulkhead and pump in the epoxy.  
I am open to any suggestions.

Frank
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Re: Stus-List C 29 Mk II Bulkhead Repair

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

We repaired a similar bulkhead issue on Calypso by cutting out the damaged 
section. The section was approx. 12" x 18".  We replaced the bulkhead section 
with similar grade plywood bonded in place with epoxy then adding glass cloth 
and epoxy over the seams.  We replaced the failed tabbing with new.



If you have a very small area immediately next to the tabbing a less invasive 
repair might be possible following your Plan A.  If you have a oscillating tool 
(Feinmaster etc.) working in confined spaces is easier.  The plunge cut blades 
allow for some "micro" surgery.



Have you visited the West System's web site?  They have some excellent boat 
repair guides that highlight use of their epoxy products.  For a pour in place 
repair adding some chopped glass fibers or similar strength building filler 
will reduce the epoxy fill's chances of cracking if it flexes.



Martin

Calypso

1971 C 43

Seattle


From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Eugene Fodor via 
CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Wednesday, April 13, 2016 10:57 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Eugene Fodor
Subject: Stus-List C 29 Mk II Bulkhead Repair

The base of the bulkhead on the C 29 Mk II I'm in escrow on has some soft 
wood and the tabbing has separated. This is the bulkhead just aft of the head 
that the table is mounted on. Does anyone have experience with repairing this 
and any recommendations. My plan is to sand/grind out the existing wood and 
build it up with epoxy and then redo the tabbing. Any recommendations or links 
on info for similiar repairs would be much appreciated.

Thank in advance,

Gene
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Re: Stus-List Preventer

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

I was a watch captain on a Chance 54 named "Glory" for the 1982 Vic-Maui.  One 
dark and stormy night in tropical storm reinforced trade winds (+-30 AWS with 
gusts higher) we were just barely able to carry a spinnaker with only the 
occasional spin out.



After a spin out that rolled the owner out of the bunk he stated, clearly, that 
if I did not take that helmsman off the wheel he "hoped I brought my checkbook" 
meaning I would be held financially responsible for damage. I did not remove 
"Doc" from the wheel because it was the wind and sea conditions and none of us 
on deck could do much better at keeping the shiny side up.



So, we make it to the end of our watch with nothing broken and my checkbook 
intact.  Its 3AM and the watch coming on deck thought maybe we should stay up 
in case the spinnaker needed to be taken down.  The new driver was the 
"rockstar" sailmaker onboard and seemed to indicate maybe we should leave the 
spinny up as "he" had it handled.  A few moments later he total loses the plot, 
goes by the lee and broached deep, so deep that he, holding onto the wheel was 
flipped into the low side cockpit filled with nice warm Pacific ocean.  In this 
particular type of leeward broach the main becomes backwinded.



Now, here is the connection to having a preventer:  On Glory we had a block and 
tackle prevent rigged to a pad eye also used for the spinnaker guy.  During the 
leeward broach, mainsail backwinded and fully loaded, the preventer fails, 
likely where it was attached to the deck, possibly the snap shackle.  The block 
and tackle lines (falls?) tangled in the "coffee grinder" handle and prevents 
the main from gybing by holding it firmly amidships.  The boat is pinned, mast 
nearly touching the larger waves, most of the crew dangling from our tethers or 
standing on something normally vertical (winch drums etc).



My self and my watch mates, pre-broach were sitting in the mid-cockpit close to 
the coffee grinders.  The preventer caught up in the winch handle was right 
above my head.  I got out my Buck sailing knife, got as low as I could and 
still reach the tangled line and just touched it with the blade. A light touch 
was all that was needed on a line that close to its breaking strength.



As the main was freed it swung down to leeward and the boat popped back 
upright.  Now of course the Rockstar helmsman guy was still disoriented from 
his gravity enhanced rotation and had no idea where the rudder was pointing.  
As the sails, both main and spinnaker popped full the boat accelerated for a 
few lengths then went full banana split and rounded down.  This time nothing 
got tangled and it was a fairly normal spin out.



Once the boat was back under control and it seemed safe to stick his head out 
of the cabin the owner said "OK boys its time to take the spinnaker down".  We 
spent the next 12 hours under twin headsails waiting for a to return to 
"brochure" trade wind conditions.



Martin

Calypso

1971 C 43

Seattle



From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Gary Nylander via 
CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2016 2:07 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Gary Nylander
Subject: Re: Stus-List Preventer

But, if you hadn’t had that preventer, you may have lost your (old cast) 
gooseneck.

Don’t ask how I know.

Gary Nylander
30-1
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Re: Stus-List Optimus Prime

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Yes, he's in shipping.

Best regards,

Martin

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom 
Buscaglia via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, April 08, 2016 12:57 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tom Buscaglia
Subject: Stus-List Optimus Prime

Martin

Just curious, do you get to work with Optimus Prime?

Tom B

At 12:45 PM 4/8/2016, you wrote:

Message: 1
Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2016 18:52:19 +
From: Martin DeYoung >
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
>
Subject: Re: Stus-List West System Epoxy & resin
Message-ID: 
<23eae197cc1b594fa8793397ebcd357d08f9e...@dmi3.dmi.local>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

BTW, here at the transformer factory we commonly store epoxies in the freezer 
to extend the shelf life.  Some of our exotic very high temp epoxies (use in 
aircraft propulsion) are shipped and stored at -40C.

We have been using warm water to eliminate the crystals in epoxy hardener since 
1972.

Best regards,

Martin

Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com

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Re: Stus-List West System Epoxy & resin

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

BTW, here at the transformer factory we commonly store epoxies in the freezer 
to extend the shelf life.  Some of our exotic very high temp epoxies (use in 
aircraft propulsion) are shipped and stored at -40C.

We have been using warm water to eliminate the crystals in epoxy hardener since 
1972.

Best regards,

Martin

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Martin 
DeYoung via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, April 08, 2016 11:47 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Martin DeYoung
Subject: Re: Stus-List West System Epoxy & resin

Danny,

Two suggestions; check on the West systems web site and,
if the bond is to critical (e.g. very important vs. cosmetic) run a test batch 
(2 pumps of each part) mix well and let cure.  If it sets up and looks normal I 
would use it.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, April 08, 2016 11:27 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Danny Haughey
Subject: Stus-List West System Epoxy & resin

I left my west system epoxy out in the shed all winter.

would the sub freezing temps have had any ill effect?

Should I just buy more?

Danny
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Re: Stus-List West System Epoxy & resin

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Danny,

Two suggestions; check on the West systems web site and,
if the bond is to critical (e.g. very important vs. cosmetic) run a test batch 
(2 pumps of each part) mix well and let cure.  If it sets up and looks normal I 
would use it.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, April 08, 2016 11:27 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Danny Haughey
Subject: Stus-List West System Epoxy & resin

I left my west system epoxy out in the shed all winter.

would the sub freezing temps have had any ill effect?

Should I just buy more?

Danny
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Re: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

>...1 1/4 inch, t track mounted on the side of the boom...

Calypso's boom has a similar T track on each side of the boom.  I still tie the 
reefing lines around the boom and have seen very little paint wear.

The tracks on Calypso's boom were installed long ago and may also act as 
stiffeners as the mid boom main sheet attachments are near the tracks. 

Best regards,

Martin
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robbie 
Epstein via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, April 08, 2016 7:48 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Robbie Epstein
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments

My 40 has a 1 1/4 inch, t track mounted on the side of the boom with a Schaefer 
Jiffy reef slide/bail that slides up and down the track so you can position the 
clew attachment point for multiple mainsail reef points.  The reefing line goes 
through a hook that you use to select which reefing cringle you want to use.

Robbie Epstein

1980 C 40 


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Re: Stus-List 35-1 Cored Hull?

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Based on the C 43 drawings I purchased from the Maritime Museum of the Great 
Lakes the C team learned from early hull experiences and added reinforcements 
on later hulls.

Maybe an earlier 35-1 owner reported an issue and the extra stiffener was added 
to later hulls.  From the pictures it looks well sealed.

As part of the ongoing restoration projects on Calypso we are adding the 
reinforcements shown on the drawings (some hand drawn in), especially just 
forward of the keel where we already repaired some fractures in Calypso’s hull 
back in 1999.  From several C 61 drawings I purchased, both hull #1 of the 
61’s and Calypso, hull # 1 of the 43’s had the same flaw and needed the same 
reinforcements.

I could not determine which hull number of the 43’s first received a “factory 
installed” reinforcement but I expect it was not in time for hull #’s 2 and 3.  
When launched, as “Arieto” in early 1971, our 43 was racing in the SORC within 
a few months.  I expect no mercy was shown regarding backstay and rig pressures 
in securing that year’s 1st in class (10th in fleet) wins.  It likely started 
to show some unexpected hull flex as difficulty in holding forestay tension.

IIRC hull #1 of the 61’s was Sorcery.  If so, I expect Sorcery was raced hard 
enough, with high enough hull and rig forces to precipitate an early issue that 
lead to other boats being inspected and the design team working out the fixes.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 04, 2016 5:58 PM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Stus-List 35-1 Cored Hull?

Yeah, I know, the 35-1 is not a cored hull.  Well, not 100% true.
In the process of re-configuring Touche' batteries to add a dedicated start 
battery, I pulled everything out of the aft dinette storage.  While the space 
was empty. I thought I'd grab a picture of the strip of core that is at the aft 
end of the keel.   There's a matching strip on the other side.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsWmZjYUJwNzBfMTA
This extra structure adds strength at the aft end of the keel in case of a hard 
grounding.
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List relocating MAIN-SHEET

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Dave,

For similar reasons I set up Calypso’s mainsheet “Admiral’s Cup” style and left 
the traveller in place. Harken’s web site has a good diagram of the Admiral’s 
Cup main sheet system which allows for trimming the main from either side of 
the cockpit.  Search their web site using “mainsheet systems”.

Calypso’s mainsheet is continuous with one tail on each side.  The tails run 
out from the gooseneck area of the boom to the front of the jib track, then aft 
along the track to the jib sheet turning block (the big a** cheek block bolted 
to the deck) then to the cockpit secondary winches.

When the Mrs. has assumed the cruising position (AKA sitting on a cushion, book 
and cold drink in hand, typically blocking my effen sailing instruments) I am 
able to trim the main without disturbing her.  The location also allows for 
easier trimming while single or double-handing both racing and cruising.  A 
drawback is when we are flying the spinnaker and we want to use lazy sheets and 
guys.  When sailing/racing shorthanded we run a dual purpose line as both sheet 
and guy to simplify dip pole gybes.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: Description: 
cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Pamela & 
David via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2016 3:09 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Pamela & David
Subject: Stus-List relocating MAIN-SHEET

Hello

I have a C with the mainsheet traveler on the cabin roof. Really need to 
move it infront of the steering wheel as my wife prefers to read during tacks.  
Does anyone have pictures in where/how to reposition the traveler system.  Any 
help is appreciated.

David
Mudpuddle out of QCYC
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Re: Stus-List C 34-1 - Battery Strap Down

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

>Could bolts be bonded to the hull with 5200 directly without teak or would 
>that not have enough surface area?

I concur with Dennis on the T slot(s) in the wood strip. Insert a bolt (maybe 
with a washer if room allows) and bond that assembly to the fiberglass.  The 
wood strip provides the needed bonding surface.

>Martin - Not planning any offshore work at this time.  Will be family cruising 
>in the Straight of Georgia.

Back in 2001 I left the Gibson’s Landing area of Howe Sound to cross the 
Straits of Georgia headed for Active Pass.  We had been anchored in a nice 
quiet bay sheltering us from the much stronger winds in the southern straits.  
By the time we were well into it, turning around was not a viable option and 
the Mrs. voted to keep going while we were still a bit sheltered from the full 
wind and seas.  Out in the Straits, the winds were +- 30 knots with higher 
gusts.  The seas had a fetch from all the way up past Comox and had worked 
themselves into some pretty sporty sailing conditions.  My 11 year old son was 
seasick and asked my wife if this was what it was like in the ocean.  Her 
response (she has sailed back from Hawaii with me twice) was “no, but very 
close”.  My son (between calls to Ralph regarding his Buick) indicated 
something about never going to sea.

For my part, I was enjoying a great broad reach sail with 1 reef in the main 
and a  #3 headsail. It was difficult to hide my smile.  The occasional wave 
breaking onto the foredeck did make the boat more entertaining to drive but not 
beyond my preference for adventurous sailing conditions.  I had the good sense 
to slow the boat and drive off downwind when the Mrs. needed to go below but my 
attempts to calm the motion were not sufficient enough for her to offer to make 
me a ham sandwich or pass up anything better to drink than water.

It was a relatively quick passage to the entrance of Active Pass.  With the 
positive current our SOG was in the 8 to 10 knot range for most of the 
crossing.  Within 15 minutes of entering the calmer water in the lee of Galiano 
Island our son was hungry again and back to normal.  The wind dropped off and 
we motored through Active Pass to spend the night anchored at Ganges, 
Saltspring Island.

My long term family friendly sailing takeaway from this particular crossing of 
the Straits would be to ignore the schedule pressure when the family is onboard 
and the Straits are a rocking.  Out of my approx. 25 crossings of the Straits 
of Georgia, 50% were calm to nice sailing, 15% were in high enough winds and 
seas to be uncomfortable.  This group includes an afternoon caught just north 
of Nanaimo in a forecasted “Qualicum” wind that came on suddenly and blew a 
solid 20+ for 5 hours. (The other 35% were racing.)

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jeremy Ralph 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2016 11:33 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jeremy Ralph
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 34-1 - Battery Strap Down

Dennis - thanks for the 3M 5200 to bond teak to the fiberglass idea.

David, I agree that bolts are better than screws.

Could bolts be bonded to the hull with 5200 directly without teak or would that 
not have enough surface area?

Martin - Not planning any offshore work at this time.  Will be family cruising 
in the Straight of Georgia.


>>Looking to strap down 3 batteries (2 group 27s and 1 group 24 ) under the 
>>quarter berth of a 1978 C 34-1 for cruising. Looks like someone has screwed 
>>into the sole there before.  Not sure what I'd be screwing into and how long 
>>a screw to use. The sole looks like it may have been originally molded for 2 
>>group 24s.  Interested to hear the list's advice.

Thanks,
  Jeremy
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Re: Stus-List Cutless Bearing

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

>… to hit the shaft with the slide-hammer, while it is still attached to the 
>transmission (I hear that transmissions don’t like this).

Yes, most if not all transmissions / reduction gears are not designed for that 
type of shock load on the output shaft.  I braced the coupling independent of 
the output shaft.

Other softer surfaces to protect include the shaft log or seal.  Good hard 
points to pull against include the engine mount beds/bolts.  Calypso has a lot 
of space under the cockpit making much of this type of work more straight 
forward.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek 
Dziedzic (hotmail) via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2016 10:54 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Marek Dziedzic (hotmail)
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cutless Bearing

Erik,

the biggest mistake you can make is to hit the shaft with the slide-hammer, 
while it is still attached to the transmission (I hear that transmissions don’t 
like this).

Depending on your abilities, the second biggest mistake might be to do it 
yourself. I think that the task is reasonably straight forward, but this does 
not mean easy.

Marek
C270, Legato
Ottawa
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Re: Stus-List Cutless Bearing

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Erik,

When we replaced Calypso’s cutlass bearing a few years ago we did the easy work 
and paid the yard specialist to remove and replace the bearing.  Calypso’s 
rudder was already out for repairs from a log strike making removal of the prop 
shaft straight forward.

Removing the rudder was not as difficult as it looked however Calypso has good 
access to the steering quadrant and the rudder shaft bearings.  Many C’s do 
not have adequate clearance in this area.  Pulling the prop shaft out of the 
coupling was the only difficult part.  I ended up borrowing a slide 
hammer/shaft puller from the yard.

If you are mechanically inclined and have the time this type of project is a 
good way to get up close and personable with your boat’s mechanical gear.  If 
you are short of time and not familiar with this type of boat maintenance I 
recommend using the yard guy.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Erik 
Hillenmeyer via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2016 9:45 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Erik Hillenmeyer
Subject: Stus-List Cutless Bearing

Having only owned the boat 3 years I've never had to change this before, but I 
noticed while greasing my max prop that there is a lot of play in the prop 
shaft and the bearing definitely needs replaced.

How difficult of a job is this?  Does the rudder have to be removed to remove 
the prop shaft?  How likely is an amateur to make a very costly mistake in the 
course of removing the shaft from the coupling and removing the bearing from 
the strut?  The yard tells me this is a half day job at least, which means $$$ 
if I have them do it.  I'm weighing the cost-benefit of saving money by 
replacing this myself and the possible cost of a screwing up the job and 
needing them to come in anyway.

Erik
C 35-3
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Re: Stus-List C 34-1 - Battery Strap Down

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Jeremy,

Will you be cruising in sheltered waters or offshore?

How robust the battery tie down and containment system is should reflect the 
risk of the boat being knocked down.

On Calypso, we have gel cell batteries well secured to bulkhead strength 
attachments.  As we occasionally sail in PNW coastal conditions and from time 
to time make questionable sail choices while racing I expect the batteries to 
stay put when the boat is laid over to 90 degrees.  So far we have only tested 
it to approx. 75 degrees.

If your plans do not include adventurous sail and weather choices you have many 
more options for battery containment.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jeremy Ralph 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, March 29, 2016 7:03 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jeremy Ralph
Subject: Stus-List C 34-1 - Battery Strap Down

Looking to strap down 3 batteries (2 group 27s and 1 group 24 ) under the 
quarter berth of a 1978 C 34-1 for cruising. Looks like someone has screwed 
into the sole there before.  Not sure what I'd be screwing into and how long a 
screw to use. The sole looks like it may have been originally molded for 2 
group 24s.  Interested to hear the list's advice.

Thanks,
  Jeremy
___

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Re: Stus-List Two anchors - one boat

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

>… Princess Louisa.

When I spent a few nights anchored near Chatterbox Falls at the head of the 
Princess Louisa inlet in a 1980 C 36 we used some of the current from the 
falls to hold the boat against the bow anchor.

We motored in towards the sandy shore just off where the river entered the 
inlet until the bow was in approx. 1 fathom, dropped the anchor (CQR), and 
backed out feeding chain and rode until the keel was in approx. 5 fathoms.  
Once the main anchor was set I rowed the much smaller stern anchor (Danforth) 
out and dropped it in about 15 fathoms.  The combo of bow and stern anchors 
plus the very still conditions in that spot made for some very quiet nights.

Princess Louisa is one of those magical places I need to return to with 3 weeks 
of supplies and books and no calendar.  No cell phone coverage, no roads within 
40 miles, and the Malibu Rapids to keep out the less dedicated cruisers.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew 
Burton via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, March 28, 2016 5:08 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Burton
Subject: Re: Stus-List Two anchors - one boat

Martin, I did something similar in one of the little bays in the corners in 
Jervis Inlet on the way up to Princess Louisa. More than 100' on the bow, lots 
less under the stern and tied to a tree.

Andy
C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

On Mar 28, 2016, at 19:13, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Here in the PNW, especially in the beautiful British Columbia waters around 
Vancouver Island, stern tying to the shore is common.  I am glad nobody had a 
cell phone camera the first few times I stern tied to the shore.  After some 
practice and having the right length and type of line, the process become 
smoother and less entertaining for those already anchored.

We once anchored (46lb CQR, 90’ chain, 250’ rode) with the bow in 90’ of water 
and the stern in 18’ of water.  We stern tied to a huge rock on shore.  It was 
essentially a process of letting out most of the chain and rode, backing in 
towards shore until the anchor caught on the underwater cliff, then rowing the 
stern line to shore.  It was a spectacular anchorage, 3,000’ snowcapped 
mountains visible on either side, eagles nesting on the hill above us, and no 
other boats within ½ mile.  However, I did not sleep well.  The weather was 
very settled but the tide and current changes were a concern.  I would drink a 
big glass of water, sleep for a few hours then get up to “check the anchor”.  
For those of you in the PNW, this was in Pendrell Sound, north end of the 
Desolation Sound area.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle


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Re: Stus-List Two anchors - one boat

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Here in the PNW, especially in the beautiful British Columbia waters around 
Vancouver Island, stern tying to the shore is common.  I am glad nobody had a 
cell phone camera the first few times I stern tied to the shore.  After some 
practice and having the right length and type of line, the process become 
smoother and less entertaining for those already anchored.

We once anchored (46lb CQR, 90’ chain, 250’ rode) with the bow in 90’ of water 
and the stern in 18’ of water.  We stern tied to a huge rock on shore.  It was 
essentially a process of letting out most of the chain and rode, backing in 
towards shore until the anchor caught on the underwater cliff, then rowing the 
stern line to shore.  It was a spectacular anchorage, 3,000’ snowcapped 
mountains visible on either side, eagles nesting on the hill above us, and no 
other boats within ½ mile.  However, I did not sleep well.  The weather was 
very settled but the tide and current changes were a concern.  I would drink a 
big glass of water, sleep for a few hours then get up to “check the anchor”.  
For those of you in the PNW, this was in Pendrell Sound, north end of the 
Desolation Sound area.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: Description: 
cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, March 28, 2016 3:31 PM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Stus-List Two anchors - one boat

How many of us have ever double hooked, bow/stern?
I've only done it a couple times.  Was a bit behind schedule coming into The 
Rigolets, the outlet of Lake Pontchartrain into Lake Borgne.  Decided to anchor 
just off The Rigolets in the West Pearl River.  The West Pearl is a bit narrow, 
has some crazy fishermen roaring by at 50 knots.

I wanted to anchor close by and parallel to the shore to stay well away from 
and not swing into the channel.  Set the bow anchor up current, drifted down 
current, set the smaller lunch hook and then pulled the boat back towards the 
bow anchor.  Done.  Popped a beer.
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List C 29 mk2 rudder

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Bob,

If you plan on completing a more extensive repair in the future I recommend 
avoiding filling the voids with epoxy.  All that extra epoxy and filler would 
need to be removed when completing a full repair.

If this season's sailing plans are not expected to push the rudder harder than 
the last few seasons, filling the holes and adding a few layers of cloth over 
the top will likely be strong enough.

When we performed a similar repair on Calypso's rudder we also found evidence 
of past repairs and some wet balsa.  Some of the water intrusion was from a 
recent log strike, some was from past issues.  We used a hole saw to open up 
small areas and check for how extensive the balsa damage was.  Fortunately it 
was limited and only 5 or 6 holes were needed.  We added epoxy/cloth to the 
leading edge after patching the holes. We also repaired the seal at the rudder 
post entry point.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bob Hickson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, March 28, 2016 9:54 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bob Hickson
Subject: Stus-List C 29 mk2 rudder

A couple of weeks ago, I noticed a hair line crack in the leading edge of the 
rudder on my 29-2 (1985 built in the US plant)
This weekend, I sanded back from the leading edge about 6 inches in preparation 
for 2 layers of fiberglass cloth to be epoxied over the leading edge.
When I sanded back along the sides of the rudder, I found 8 to 10 holes 3/8 
inch diameter drilled through the port side and a couple of holes on the 
starboard side.
The holes are randomly located different distances from the front edge and over 
the full height of the rudder.
I drilled these old holes out and I am puzzled at what seems to be inside the 
rudder.
The coring appears to be a mixture of deteriorated balsa (I don't think balsa 
coring was ever put into a rudder by C), deteriorated / wet foam and dry foam 
in good condition.
There also seem to be voids behind some of the holes about 2 to 3 inches in 
diameter.
I believe that the rudder must have been repaired by the PO.
I would rather not do a total rebuild on the rudder this spring.
My thoughts are to go ahead with 2 layers of glass cloth (first layer 5 inches 
/ second layer 10 inches wide) epoxied over the leading edge.
I was wondering about filling the rudder with a low viscosity epoxy. I would 
fill the bottom 12 inches first through holes in the sides and then work my way 
to the top of the rudder in 12 inch sections as the lower sections cured.
Does this sound like a reasonable plan?
Has anyone done a similar repair? If so how long has it lasted?
Does anyone know how many tangs are located in the rudder and there 
approximately location?

Fair Winds,

Bob Hickson, P. Eng.
Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club,
C and C 29 mark 2, Flying Colours,
416-919-2297
bobhick...@rogers.com



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Re: Stus-List Yanmar Key source

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

> … when a key broke off inside on the previous Enterprise.

>The need for a key outdoors amuses me. If they can break into your boat to get 
>the power on, they certainly can get to the back of the panel and connect the 
>two wires.

Back in the early 80’s I was asked by the local North Sails loft manager to 
help train a new customer’s foredeck crew.  The local low key race started from 
Port Madison, Bainbridge Island and ran south towards Blakely Rocks.  The 
boat’s new owner seemed very sure of his navigation when I asked if his upwind, 
out of the current course towards the Bainbridge Island shore included enough 
depth for his draft.  Shortly after this conversation I mentioned to the 
foredeck trainee “I’d sit down if I were you” as a subtle warning that an 
abrupt stop was imminent.  In the process of that particular and sudden 
grounding, the owner’s leg slide forward and broke the ignition key off in his 
brand new engine panel.

Being that: I was a volunteer advisor, not part of the regular crew; the boat 
was firmly aground in soft mud; the tide was falling and 6 hours from rising; 
and a local home owner rowed out and asked if he could assist, I quickly said 
“I would love a ride to shore”.

I quickly demonstrated how easy it was to hot wire his brand new boat with a 
key broken off in the ignition switch, grabbed my duffel bag and, with the 
owner’s reluctant permission abandoned ship. The row ashore was quite short but 
I was a long way from the town of Winslow where the WA State ferry system’s 
best would transport me back to Seattle where my car was parked.  Fortunately 
back in the 80’s, on Bainbridge Island seeing a hitchhiking sailor was not 
uncommon.  I got a quick lift easily making the next ferry sailing and was 
sitting at the Seattle Yacht Club bar with a fresh sea story in hand for my 
day’s work.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd Schillay 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 24, 2016 2:40 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Edd Schillay
Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar Key source

I also did what Gary did, especially after doing surgery on the Yanmar panel 
when a key broke off inside on the previous Enterprise. It’s an easy install.

The need for a key outdoors amuses me. If they can break into your boat to get 
the power on, they certainly can get to the back of the panel and connect the 
two wires.


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log

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Re: Stus-List Max prop angle

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Brian,

When I adjust Calypso’s 3 Blade MAX prop 1 setting it seems to make a 10% 
change in pitch/engine speed.

Some yards will make a deal during slow times to allow several hauls and 
launches to test out the different pitch changes.  The service guys at PYI may 
be able to give you the most popular pitch setting for your engine, reduction 
gear, and hull.

I ran Calypso’s Perkins 4-108 slightly over pitched for a few years.  I changed 
it to slightly under pitched (the engine easily reaches max rpm) for a trip 
around Vancouver Island to be sure I could power into big seas and winds if 
needed.  I did not notice an increase in fuel consumption but I did notice a 
slightly reduced cruising speed at the smoothest RPM.  I am able to hit hull 
speed at higher RPMs.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brian Fry 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 23, 2016 4:45 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Brian Fry
Subject: Stus-List Max prop angle


I have a 3 blade Max Prop, 17". The surveyor said to adjust propeller pitch to 
allow the engine to reach top speed in gear.
The current settings are for 24 degrees.
I think I am supposed  to reduce the angle.
I do not know how far off the speed is, so I am thinking of starting at 22.
Anyone else with a 37/40 know their pitch or angle?

Brian Fry
La Neige
37/40 XL
Havre de Grace MD
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Re: Stus-List Fire blankets

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

>… always put the fire out by blowing off an ABC Dry Chem extinguisher (and 
>likely making the interior of the boat unlivable).

Had to do this ( 2 dry chem extinguishers) to put out an alcohol stove fire 3 
days NE of Kauai on our way back to Seattle.  The dry chem added to the rough 
seas and increased the seasickness issues on board.  That C 39’s interior was 
not the same for months.

A blanket would have been useful.  If the supply hose had not burned off the 
fitting a little water may have been enough.  Fortunately someone on deck had 
closed the alcohol supply valve at the tank so the fountain of burning alcohol 
was limited to what was in the lines.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ken Heaton 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 18, 2016 5:18 PM
To: cnc-list
Cc: Ken Heaton
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fire blankets

Around here you can pick one up at Home depot for $10.00 when on sale.  We keep 
one in the boat and also one in the kitchen at home.

Even if they are only effective on smaller stove top fires, I'd keep one handy 
and try it on small fires before going for the extinguisher.  A crew member can 
standby with the extinguisher.  If the fire blanket doesn't work you can always 
put the fire out by blowing off an ABC Dry Chem extinguisher (and likely making 
the interior of the boat unlivable).

There are a number of good (and many bad) Fire Blanket videos online, the 
better ones seem to be from the UK or Australia.

I've never needed to use on in anger.

Ken H.

On 18 March 2016 at 20:58, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> wrote:
Any listers have a fire blanket onboard?
Ever had to use one or see one used?
Opinions?
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

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Re: Stus-List Wet Coast C's for Sale

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Add the C 48 “Morning Star” at Swiftsure Yachts, Seattle to the Wet Coast 
list, at a slightly higher price point.

This 48 was restored by the same guy that restored the 43 “Evening Star”.  The 
owner has been around C’s so long he was one of the race crew on Calypso when 
it was named “Arieto” and raced out of Boston back in the 70’s.

After seeing the quality of work done on Evening Star I am confident the 48’s 
quality of finish and equipment is top notch.  IIRC the boat spent some time 
cruising up and down the East Coast.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Peter Fell 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, March 08, 2016 3:31 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Peter Fell
Subject: Stus-List Wet Coast C's for Sale

Neither are mine but in case someone is looking ...

1990 C 34/36R for $45,000 (CAN): 
http://www.salts.ca/site/buy-a-boat/sailboats/candc-34-36r.html (oops ... I’m 
drooling!)

And, a $1000 (CAN) Mega 30: 
http://www.usedvictoria.com/classified-ad/CC-Mega-30-with-Yellow-stripe_27002980

Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C 27 MkIII
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Re: Stus-List Need a Sheave for my Outhaul

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

I used www.Zephyrwerks.com for replacement sheaves 
for Calypso’s Palmer / Johnson custom made spin sheet blocks.  Zephyrwerks is 
based out of a small shop in Port Townsend WA. (My favorite PNW port even after 
they tore down the iconic Town Tavern, a scene of much of the verses or “What 
do you do with a drunken sailor”.)

Fast turnaround, great quality, and a reasonable price.  Email the owner if you 
don’t see what you want on his web page.  I sent several of the old sheaves to 
Zephyrwerks to help in determining the new bushing sizes.  IIRC the new sheaves 
showed up in less than 2 weeks.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of schiller via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 03, 2016 11:07 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: schiller
Subject: Stus-List Need a Sheave for my Outhaul

I need a sheave for the Outhaul on my Redwing 35.  The old sheave is Aluminum, 
OD 1 3/4" Dia X 1/4" thick with a 5/16" Dia ID.  I have checked Rigrite's stock 
sized and they don't list one.  I think I will call them to see if they have 
anything.  The old sheave did not have a bushing when I took it apart.  The 
Outhaul has always been stiff, now I know why.

The actual Sheave is 1 3/4 OD X 1/2 ID with (I assume) a 1/2 OD X 5/16 ID 
Oilite bushing.

Any ideas?

BTW, I have the builders file for Hull #70 from South Shore Yachts.  I asked 
for the builders file for mine (Hull #7) and that is what they sent.  It was 
originally delivered to Associated Yachts in Essex, Connecticut in July of 
1971.  The original buyer listed was Dr. Pepkowitz.  If anyone knows of Hull 
#70, I'll send the file to them.

Neil Schiller
1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
(C 35, Mark I)
"Corsair" (Originally christened "Red Pepper")
Still under snow in South Haven, Michigan
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Re: Stus-List cockpit port on a Landfall 38

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

> The C 43 had balsa core in vertical cockpit surfaces?

Yes, for the vertical surfaces that are part of the cabin.  The vertical 
surfaces in the lower cockpit are solid.  The horizontal cockpit surfaces are 
also balsa cored including the hatch covers.  All the other deck/cabin surfaces 
have balsa except where bulkheads are glassed in and under the traveller (the 
43’s “brow” area).  The deck/cabin outer skin is +-3/8” thick, the balsa is ½” 
thick, the inner skin is +-1/8” thick.  The hull is a full schedule fiberglass 
layup (in most places >1/2” thick to 1” thick on center line) with ¾” balsa 
added to the inside from 4” below the toe rail to 18” to 24” up from the lower 
centerline.  The ¾” thick balsa added to the inside of the hull has a thin 
fiberglass skin over it and is tapered down to zero balsa under the bulkheads 
and forward of the anchor locker and aft of mid-cockpit.

> If the 43 had coring in vertical cockpit surfaces does that mean those walls 
> are close to 1" thick?

Yes and maybe a little thicker in many places owing to layup variations.  The 
deck edges 4” back from the toe rail have no balsa but seem to be a thicker 
layup.  Where vertical transitioned to horizontal the deck layup crew tapered 
the balsa out and filleted with a polyester based “bog” filler that is brittle 
and subject to failure when exposed to water, especially with a repeated 
freeze/thaw cycle.  We are replacing any bog we come in contact with using West 
System epoxy and a variety of fillers.

Calypso is hull #1 of the 43’s, built at Bruckmann’s custom shop.  There are 
differences between Calypso and the other 14 43’s of the Limited Edition series 
(early to mid-70’s).  For the 1971 SORC, named Arieto, this boat was one of the 
C "factory" boats and won its class.  The story I heard was the boat was 
built in a hurry for a demanding owner that was serious about winning.  There 
may be more balsa than in other, later 43’s.  Hull #2 was likely the most 
similar, launched as “Destination”.  It is now named “Carmanah” and last I 
heard it is off on a So Pac cruise after a nicely done restoration and upgrade. 
 In 1974 both Arieto and Destination, racing each other with motivated owners 
had a stern “bob” to lower the IOR rating.  The stern bob was spec’d out by C 
and performed in Rhode Island.  After the bob the sterns look much like a C 
39.

I have a 1999 picture of 3 43’s (Calypso, Epic, and Evening Star) rafted 
together in Port Madison (near Seattle).  The picture lends credence to the 
other owners complaint that Calypso was lighter.  I have the keel weight 
numbers which indicate the lead sections were within a hundred pounds.  I 
expect the real issue was additional interior accoutrements and cruising gear.  
Calypso’s interior has a different layout than all other 43’s (more like a C 
39) and generally less drawers and doors, no headliner, and the forepeak that 
is mostly an open sail locker with ½” plywood to make a place for V berth 
cushions.  On sail plan data web site under 1971 C 43-1 there is a drawing of 
Calypso’s layout much like it is now with very minor differences from the 
actual build.

A 1984 Landfall would have a different layup and balsa schedule/plan and was 
likely built at a different plant.  C/Bruckmann’s learned a lot about balsa 
construction over the years following Calypso’s 1970 build.  Based on the 
updates I observed on the drawings from the Maritime Museum, the 43’s that 
followed Calypso and its big brother Sorcery (61”) have additional 
strengthening beams and stiffening panels.  We are adding some of those as part 
of our ongoing deck restoration project.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: Description: Description: 
cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: Patrick Davin [mailto:jda...@gmail.com]
Sent: Monday, February 29, 2016 4:41 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; Martin DeYoung
Subject: Re: cockpit port on a Landfall 38

The C 43 had balsa core in vertical cockpit surfaces? That seems really 
surprising. There's no core in the LF38 cockpit wall to the left of the 
companionway, at least from what I observed removing an old Datamarine display. 
It's about 1/4" of fiberglass.

If the 43 had coring in vertical cockpit surfaces does that mean those walls 
are close to 1" thick?  I've been working under the assumption that the only 
coring I have in the cockpit is in the floor, so just want to make sure I'm not 
missing anything here.

-Patrick
1984 C Landfall 38
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Re: Stus-List cockpit port on a Landfall 38

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

A word of caution regarding the Fuller Brush Co plastic portlights.  One of 
those in Calypso’s cockpit had a hidden crack in the frame. For years (likely 
30+) it allowed rain/spray water to leak into the balsa core.  The crack did 
not show up until I disassembled the inner and outer frames.

If your portlight frame is vulnerable to physical damage or shows existing 
damage to the flanges I recommend a thorough inspection.  Check closely the 
overlapping inner and outer flanges especially where water is able to pool.

I replaced Calypso’s Fuller Brush portlight with a Lewmar model with an 
aluminum frame.  I epoxied the portlight cut out to prevent any future balsa 
damage.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of jtsails via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, February 29, 2016 2:16 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: jtsails
Subject: Re: Stus-List cockpit port on a Landfall 38

Paul,
It is probably a “Fuller Brush Company” portlight. Not sure how a cleaning 
products company got into making portlights, but they are still in business and 
parts are available. My 1976 ‘38 had two of them, one I replaced with a Lewmar 
(the one in the cockpit) and one that I still have (in the head). Not the 
nicest looking units, but Mine is 40 years old and still working nicely! The 
plastic is crazed and fogged, but that is not a problem in the head.
James
Delaney
1976 C 38
Oriental, NC
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Re: Stus-List Racing a 30-1

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

> My boat has a very short (two feet) aluminum pole with jaws on each end like 
> a spin pole - I wonder if that's what it's for.

That is likely a Reaching Strut used when close reaching with a spinnaker to 
force the After Guy (connects the spinnaker to the pole and pulls the pole aft) 
away from the side of the boat to improve the guy’s ability to pull the pole 
off the forestay.

One end of the reaching strut likely attaches near the base of the mast, the 
other holds the guy similar to the pole end.  On Calypso I tie the reaching 
strut to the shrouds and toe rail to keep it from sliding aft of raising up.

On the 43 with its highly loaded sheets/guys I strongly recommend crew keep 
well clear of the reaching strut when we have her rail down and fully loaded.  
One race a crew decided my recommendations did not apply to him when taking 
pictures with his phone.  The sail tie used to hold the reaching strut down 
close to the life lines failed and the strut popped up quickly hitting his 
hand.  It scared the sh*t out of him but did no damage beyond a good thump.  He 
was not invited back.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Randy 
Stafford via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2016 11:47 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: randy.staff...@comcast.net
Subject: Re: Stus-List Racing a 30-1

Thanks Gary, this is very helpful.  Couple details about my boat that affect 
crew positions / responsibilities: tiller steering, traveler aft on transom, 
halyards not led aft, no headsail furler.

So the full complement would be driver, mainsail trimmer, two headsail 
trimmers, mast person, and bow person.  If shorthanded the driver could trim 
the main, and the bow person could double as a headsail trimmer.  But probably 
need four minimum (driver, trimmer, mast, bow) to fly the chute, and more is 
better as the air gets heavier.

Thanks for the tip about the barber hauler on reaches.  My boat has a very 
short (two feet) aluminum pole with jaws on each end like a spin pole - I 
wonder if that's what it's for.

After getting your comments, and Mike's (Persistence, Halifax), I'll probably 
race in B division (JAM) in the spring series so my crew and I can get used to 
the boat and practice with the spinnaker outside of racing, then switch to A 
division (spinnaker) for the summer series.

Much appreciated.

Cheers,
Randy
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Re: Stus-List radar mast/pole on C 32

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

I used a Questus pole and dampened mount over the backstay of a 1980 C for 7 
years.  It looked and worked great.

On Calypso we glassed in an aluminum pole and used a prototype of the radar 
mount sold by PYI with a powerboat trim tab actuator to give us the ability to 
tilt the mount if we planned on being heeled over for a long time.  The tilt 
function has not been used in the PNW but I would use it on a long offshore 
delivery.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hans-Erik 
Andersen via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, February 23, 2016 11:50 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hans-Erik Andersen
Subject: Stus-List radar mast/pole on C 32

Hello - does anybody have experience mounting a radar mast/pole on a C? I 
have some ideas - there seem to be limited options, given the transom, etc. -- 
but it would be great if anybody has some pictures of successful installations

thanks!
Hans Andersen
C 32 "Avatar"
Seattle, WA
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Re: Stus-List When to reef C 33-2

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

> ...with 6 or 8 agile 200 pounders up there...



Calypso displaces +-24,000lbs with almost 10,000 of that in the keel.



Back in 2008 on the up wind leg of a particularly windy (25 to 35 TWS) 
Foulweather Bluff race we had Calypso set up with 1 reef in the main and a #3 
headsail.  We passed most of the lighter boats that were relying on crew weight 
ballast.  I told the older less agile crew that they could sit wherever they 
wanted, even below if they got cold.



In the higher end of the wind range we would pop in the 2nd reef but the sea 
state made it attractive to keep the power up, heel over a bit and bash some 
waves.  We would  smile and wave to the overpowered boats sliding off to 
leeward eventually having to tack to avoid being embayed in Useless Bay.  
Calypso finally got her conditions, big wind, big waves, adverse current.  We 
finished 3rd in class.



Shortly after crossing the finish line off Edmonds WA we headed back south (up 
wind) to our home port, Shilshole Bay Marina.  Before we made more than a mile 
of progress we got hit with a 48 knot gust (had 2 reefs in the main, #3 
headsail).  The gust knocked us down deep enough to have green water over the 
cockpit winches.  I heard some nasty cracking sounds which turned out to be an 
early indicator of the balsa rot issues in Calypso's deck.  We also broke part 
of the roller furler torque tube.



>From that high wind race I got a great T-shirt, sea story, and confirmation of 
>the 43's heavy weather performance.  I also dug the #4 headsail out of storage 
>to have on board for the next race/delivery with a high wind forecast.



Martin

Calypso

1971 C 43

Seattle




From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of dwight veinot via 
CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Saturday, February 13, 2016 6:26 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: dwight veinot
Subject: Re: Stus-List When to reef C 33-2

One season I started early and just left the main reefed even when I packed up 
at the end of a sail. We get stiff wind here in early May. Anyway with Alianna 
I now prefer full main and furled genoa 135 to 120 then to110 and mine works ok 
furled to 100% with no change of lead points. If that's still too much for 
comfort the genoa gets rolled up all the way and just full main alone. Racing 
is different as the amount of sail you can carry is a function of weight on the 
windward rail; crew weight. Never really had enough on Alianna but I would love 
to try her with 6 or 8 agile 200 pounders up there; then I am using a 150 up 
front and ready to do sail changes.
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Re: Stus-List Anyone score any C shirts from the Craigslist guy?

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

I attempted to contact the seller by email but was unsuccessful.  Do either of 
you know good contact info, email or phone?

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard N. 
Bush via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, February 08, 2016 11:34 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Richard N. Bush
Subject: Re: Stus-List Anyone score any C shirts from the Craigslist guy?

Joe, I bought 5 polo shirts...haven't opened them up yet...I guess I'd 
better...so they can air out!
The guy was very nice to work with and sent the shirts as promised...he even 
emailed photos so I could pick out the colors I wanted.
Richard
1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596;

Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255


-Original Message-
From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Sent: Mon, Feb 8, 2016 2:25 pm
Subject: Stus-List Anyone score any C shirts from the Craigslist guy?
I got 2 jackets, a fleece, a sweater, a long sleeve shirt, and some polo shirts 
for me and the family. Really nice stuff once you wash it, they all had an odd 
smell from sitting around.
Joe
Coquina

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Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Tom,

Calypso has had a Webasto T90 for 16 years.  Late last year it needed its first 
tune up.  We use the Webasto all year, even cruising in summer to take the 
evening chill off.  We did install a "summer" valve that allows use to stop the 
hot water flow to the cabin heat exchangers but have rarely used it.

The T90 is able to make the boat's cabin as warm as we can stand.  From a 
ambient 55/60F to 70F takes about 20 minutes.

Installation was a 1/2 DIY, 1/2 tech from Sure Marine.  We purchased the Sure 
Marine installation package that included step by step instructions and many of 
the needed fittings.

The current draw is highest at start up.  After the coolant is at temp the 
number fans (on high or low, 3 locations) and a circulation pump are the main 
current draw.  Calypso's house bank is 4 6v batteries and the furnace can 
typically run 4 to 5 hours without a charging session.  Running less heat 
exchangers/fans may extend the time.

For domestic hot water we installed an "Everhot" heat exchanger that acts like 
a coolant reservoir and heats the water for galley and shower use.  We are able 
to make as much hot water as what is in the boat's tanks.

Most of the DIY installation time was running the coolant hoses and installing 
the heat exchangers.  We had the pros perform the finish plumbing, wiring, and 
run the exhaust.  The furnace itself is compact but the overflow tank and the 
Everhot tank take up some lazerette space.  We ran the hoses thru the bilge.  
The fuel has its own feed direct from the tank.

Martin
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle


From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Tom Buscaglia via 
CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Saturday, February 06, 2016 7:48 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tom Buscaglia
Subject: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation

Speaking of diesel heaters, ever since we brought Alera out from Lake Ontario I 
have wanted to install a hydronic heater so that in addition to heat we would 
have hot water.  So, every year when I go to the Seattle Boat show I gather 
materials and every the the amount of boat bucks, and my fear of screwing the 
installation up makes me put it off another year.

Anyone have a hydronic setup?

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200


> On Feb 5, 2016, at 4:24 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Fri, 05 Feb 2016 16:23:56 -0800
> From: Russ & Melody 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel Heaters and installation
> Message-ID:
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; Format="flowed"
>
>
> Hi Steve,
>
> I should have listed install location in the
> "Cons:" list of the Newport heater. It can be tricky.
>
> The link I sent is for Newport diesel bulkhead
> unit. The D2 has a huge advantage on heat output
> on low settings, not to be overlooked. The
> Admiral & I are a big fan of radiant heat, also not to be overlooked.
>
> Diesel is the fuel for both heaters and tank
> location with proper venting is the same for
> both, so diesel odour is a wash, so to speak. The
> tank can be almost anywhere for either unit and
> if elevation is such that gravity feed is not
> going to work for the bulkhead heater then you
> get a little impulse pump similar to what the
> Espar uses. I would see about putting the tank in
> the cockpit combing area, that's high enough and
> easy to fit a deck fill to keep everything
> outside. Either heater would like a 2 - 4 gallon
> tank since you're looking at up to 1 gallon a day
> use in cold conditions maybe a bit less for the D2.
>
> On the 40' wooden boat I'm fitting out for
> retirement cruising I will have both types of
> heaters so I won't need to choose which one is best. :)
>
> Cheers, Russ
> Sweet 35 mk-1
> Vancouver Island
>
>
> At 03:24 PM 05/02/2016, you wrote:
>> Thanks for the helpful replies, all.
>>
>> Russ, I really love the idea of the newport
>> heaters, to be honest, I like the idea of solid
>> fuel the most. A proper wood fire is one of my
>> favourite things. But the only units worth
>> getting are expensive wood stove types, which
>> are super nice, but I can't justify the expense
>> and they have drawbacks on a boat. The espar is
>> appealing because it's out of the way. The
>> problem for me with the diesel newport is the
>> fuel. I have an A4 powered boat and one thing I
>> really like about my boat is that it doesn't
>> smell like diesel! The bulkhead diesel heater
>> would necessitate a gravity tank somewhere
>> inside and I'm not sure where I'de have space,
>> maybe in the hanging locker. I'm concerned about
>> the diesel smell. Most of what I've read about
>> them is good however and to your point, maybe
>> more heat than the D2, less money for sure. It's
>> still an option, will my boat smell like diesel??
>>
>> Steve
>> Suhana, 

Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

>… Sounds like a Max-Prop is the gold standard.  On the other hand, it looks 
>like those retail for a non-trivial percentage of what I paid for the entire 
>boat.  Plus ongoing maintenance costs.  Is it worth it?

After owning three different boats with MAX Props I expect the answer to “is it 
worth it” depends on how and where you use your boat.

The way we use Calypso it is definitely worth the cost and maintenance.  We 
often motor for hours against the current when doing deliveries.  When we were 
on the west coast of Vancouver Island having the extra ”traction” of a 3 blade 
MAX prop made it possible to power into an angry sea.  The boat stops like a 
trawler.  There is some prop walk but less than with a fixed prop.  I have 
operated MAX prop equipped boats with no noticeable prop walk.

If we only powered off a mooring buoy or out of a marina then shut down the 
engine for the day one of the lower cost folder/feathering prop would be fine.

For mostly racing the two blade is my preference, for longer distance powering 
(cruising/deliveries) the 3 blade is smoother.  If you look closely at a MAX 
prop be sure to check how much clearance you have between a blade tip and your 
hull.  Calypso’s 3 blade’s diameter is a bit larger than needed.  We experience 
a little more prop walk and vibration than necessary owning to the lack of tip 
clearance.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Sam Wheeler 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, February 05, 2016 3:58 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Sam Wheeler
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller Question for 35-3

Thanks again to everyone for sharing your experiences.  Sounds like a Max-Prop 
is the gold standard.  On the other hand, it looks like those retail for a 
non-trivial percentage of what I paid for the entire boat.  Plus ongoing 
maintenance costs.  Is it worth it?

On Fri, Feb 5, 2016 at 3:28 PM, Doug Allardyce via CnC-List 
> wrote:
I had a Martec when I purchased the boat, and soon replaced it with a two blade 
16" Maxprop. If I were to do it again, I would go with a three blade Maxprop. 
Less vibration.

Doug Allardyce
C 35-III
"BULLET"
Detroit
_/)~~~_/)
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Re: Stus-List repairing large wet deck core areas

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Petar,

Based on repairing significant areas of rotten and wet core on Calypso I agree 
with what Mike Hoyt posted.  I did most of Calypso’s repairs from the inside 
owing to the ease of access and the many contoured areas involved.  With a 
repair under a genoa track, especially if your access to the underside is 
limited working from the top will be far easier.

When I was tracking down the extent of rot and very wet core I used a ballpeen 
hammer and tapped all around the suspect deck.  Start in a known dry, well 
bonded area and calibrate your ear to the sound.  Likely well bonded laminates 
will sound “sharp” or “bright”.  Then move to a known or suspected failed area. 
 The sound will likely become “dull” or “hollow”.  I also made many test holes 
as Mike described.

If you are lucky the damaged areas are all concentrated around the fastener 
holes and the repair areas will be small.

As to how wet balsa can be without concern, I recommend you visit Baltek’s web 
site.  Baltek has links to some studies that compare % of moisture to core 
strength.  Let me know if you cannot find those reports as I likely still have 
copies stashed somewhere in my many C 43 restoration archives.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Petar 
Horvatic via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 2016 8:45 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Petar Horvatic
Subject: Stus-List repairing large wet deck core areas

Hi all,
I am getting ready to tackle the wet deck along the port genoa track and before 
I start cutting, I  have few questions for the group.

Gelcoat cracks and delamination is appearing almost the length of the track on 
my 38 Mk2.   I realize that not all spider cracks are due to wet core, but 
there is some strong indication that at least  ¾ section of geona track area is 
rotten.   Namely, top deck is noticeably indented along the track from 
compression of backing plate and track screws.  I also remember that water was 
coming out of the tracks in areas where track was under load.Especially 
area in the aft section.  I pulled the track off last night and there is strong 
oxidation along the aluminum backing plate where ss washers and nuts were.

Any idea on how to determine how far athwartship to go when cutting out the top 
laminate?  I guess tap with a mallet?  Do people mostly save the top laminate 
or decide to lay new one from scratch?  I am also thinking that it would be 
better to cut the area so entire genoa track is included so that I don’t have 
to deal with potential of uneven surface between repair area and untouched area 
where genoa track lies.   I can foresee potential issues with the car not 
riding smoothly in area of that transition.

Thanks

Petar Horvatic
Sundowner
76 C 38MkII
On the hard at Stanley’s in Barrington


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Re: Stus-List 1980 C Headliner Panels

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

I use TAP Plastics for similar materials.  As a bonus they stock the Latitude 
38 magazine and hand them out for free.

TAP will cut or drill the materials they sell for an additional charge.  I have 
run through some big project for our production shop where the set-up costs 
were amortized over a quarter quantity and found the cost reasonable.  For a 
small piece it seems high.

TAP also sells epoxy and polyester based resins and fillers.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2016 1:06 PM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1980 C Headliner Panels

I have been trying to find that plastic at mcmaster.com 
for a couple years now.  Earlier today I emailed them for help.  They sent me a 
link to a plastics selector pack, () which 
contains several different samples of plastics.  I'm not excited about paying 
$57 for a sample pack which may or may not include what I want.
I still have some of the plastic.  I think I may send a small piece to mcmaster 
to see if they can match it.
It's really good stuff and has lots of uses on our boats.  I've seen several 
posts which could be answered with a link to this material.
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 1:48 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
> wrote:
Steve,

Like Dennis, I used some sort of plastic sheet (4’ x 8’ x ~1/8") the was 
similar, white with a grain/rough surface on one side and completely smooth on 
the other. I used the textured side and did like Wally Bryant on his LF 38 and 
used SS oval screws with SS decorative washers to hold them up. Semi-industrial 
look. It looks better because I spray-painted the interior white so the 
matching is pretty close.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit

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Re: Stus-List C 44 Custon

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Looks like a fun project.  If I did not already have an older, similar C I 
would be interested.

Based in our experience with the 43, budget for double the purchase price to 
include repairs and upgrades on a tired, high mileage, larger C

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of ed 
vanderkruk via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, January 11, 2016 12:15 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: ed vanderkruk
Subject: Stus-List C 44 Custon


http://www.kijiji.ca/v-buy-sell-other/cambridge/44-c-c-custom/1103688809

Not sure if this has been posted here already. Seems to be in Toronto but I 
don't know this boat.

45k Canadian $ ... 32k US?

Ed

Prime Interest
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Headsail

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

>… the track that I have on the front stay…

James,

Do you have pictures of Kristy’s forestay available online?

Your description makes me think you may have a 70’s era StreamStay type 
headsail luff rope system.  Do your headsails have hanks attached or a luff 
tape/rope?

If you do have the original twin groove type extrusion over your rod rigging 
forestay it is likely to top and bottom bearings have frozen up preventing it 
from rotating.  If that is the case and you want a similar headsail system I 
recommend you drop into the cnc-list Furler discussion now underway.  Harken 
has a great web site that will have drawings and pictures of their 
forestay/furler products.  There are several other quality furler systems 
available and others here on the cnc-list will be able to make recommendations.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of James 
Nichols via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, January 06, 2016 10:21 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: James Nichols
Subject: Stus-List Headsail

I am trying to figure out my head sail arrangement.  I don't have self furling, 
I do have rod rigging (probably original, will be thoroughly inspected before I 
put it under stress).

I am guessing that the track that I have on the front stay is there because you 
can't hank directly onto the rod.

My question is, how freely is that track supposed to swivel around the rod? 
Mine seems pretty still, and I would think that isn't a good thing for the rod 
when you change tacks and the track puts the extra rotational stress on the rod.

Thanks for any input.

James
S/V Kristy
1971 C 39
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Re: Stus-List Davits to anchors

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

James,

I added an anchor locker and bow rollers to Calypso back in1999.  We did cut a 
big hole in the deck above the empty space forward of the sail locker (V 
berth).  The anchor locker hatch cover was fabricated from the deck cut out.  
The space underneath received re-enforcements of an extra bulkhead and a 
fiberglass I beam to distribute the loads from the windlass.  A floor fabbed 
from Starboard was added to support the chain and rode. An issue for us is 
draining the anchor locker as it is below the water line (Approx. 6' from deck 
to floor).  We have tried many different bilge pump types and have settled with 
a hose running aft that shares a pump with the shower drain.  The one thing we 
missed on the original fabrication is a gutter to reduce rain and spray running 
into the locker.  As part of the ongoing deck restoration project I have custom 
molded a gutter that will collect 75% of the run off and channel it overboard.

For bow rollers we went with a custom fab out of SS that bolted over the C 
stem fitting with additional SS running aft to spread the loads out.  In 
cruising mode we carry a 65lb CQR on the bow roller with 90' of chain and 300' 
of rode.  For racing both the main and spare anchors are stowed further aft and 
much of the year we stick with Danforth types and leave the CQR ashore.  If the 
weather is getting a bit nautical we will carry the big anchor onboard in case 
we need a "E" brake.

BTW, last night I was looking through some of my Transpac 1979 pictures as part 
of a winter project to digitize some of my 40 years of sailing pictures.  I did 
that race on a 1974 C with an Atomic 4 aux engine.  Relevant to the 
cnc-list discussion on carrying gasoline on deck I noticed we had 25 gallons of 
gasoline stored in the cockpit in 5 gallon plastic jugs.  IIRC we also had 2 
smokers on the crew and asked them to smoke downwind of the spare fuel.  That 
racing 39 carried very light anchoring gear stored in the sail locker area.

I you are interested in some pictures of Calypso's anchor locker and/or bow 
rollers send me a direct email and I will forward a copy.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of James 
Nichols via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2015 9:51 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: James Nichols
Subject: Stus-List Davits to anchors

Tom, 

You touched on another thing I am having to figure out on the C 39.

I am planning on cruising as well. So she is going to be fairly loaded and the 
anchor/chain combo should balance the weight added to the rear of the boat due 
to the Davis and dingy. Above the Davis I plan on putting a rack for solar 
panels.

But, the anchor. The boat has one, and currently it is under the forward 
v-birth. But that is no place for it to be ready and useable. The cleats and 
fairleads seem to be more for lines than chain.  I'm thinking that a deck box 
may work at the bow to store the anchor chain, but replacing the double 
fairleads at the very tip of the bow with a roller concerns me a bit.

I've also considered installing a hatch at the bow so the very front of the 
boat that is just inside storage can be utilized as a chain locker, but cutting 
that big a hole in the deck concerns me more than changing out the fairleads 
for a bow roller.

James
S/V Kristy
C 39

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Re: Stus-List Winter sailing reads...

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Andrew,

If you enjoy Sterling Hayden's Wanderer, look for a copy of his novel "Voyage". 
IIRC it is set in 1900 and begins on a dark and stormy night in Boston harbor.  
In short it is a story of a clipper ship hauling coal around the horn to San 
Francisco.

For years I carried paperback copies of Wanderer or Voyage to read on offshore 
passages and never got tired of re-reading them.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew 
Burton via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2015 7:32 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Burton
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winter sailing reads...

Rereading Wanderer, by Sterling Hayden. Great great book!

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Dec 30, 2015, at 17:37, Dave via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Just finished 'Moxie' by Phil weld - great book, impressive man.
> In the same vein, about t re-read 'around the world alone' by Alain Colas.
> 
 

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Re: Stus-List NOWFUEL

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

James,

I did not see any responses from other 39 owners to your question regarding 
adding davits to a C 39, hopefully one of the 39 owners with cruising 
experience will answer soon.

My experience with the 39s is based on 4 years PNW racing and 2 Seattle/So 
Cal/Hawaii round trips back in the late 70’s and early 80’s.  We did not add 
significant weight to the ends of the 39 to keep up light air performance.

IIRC the 39 has relatively narrow ends with not a lot of extra buoyancy in the 
stern when compared to the 43 I now own.  It seems that many other, mostly 
newer (think Hunter) designs that carry davits well have a “lot of junk in the 
trunk” e.g. a wide stern with a lot of buoyancy.

If you will be sailing in calmer waters and not planning to venture offshore in 
rough weather the reduction in sailing performance might not be an issue.  The 
narrow width of the 39s stern might limit your design issues.  Contacting a few 
fabricators (Garhauer may be helpful) and asking if they have a davit design in 
stock for boats similar to a 39 you may be able to visualize what it would look 
like.

In the October issue of the PNW sailing magazine 48 North (digital back issues 
available on the 48 North web site), on page 32, a C 39 owner has an article 
about cruising in the PNW.  Based on a picture with the article the author’s 39 
“Nordic Sun” based in Tacoma WA looked to be loaded with full cruising gear, 
but not davits.  If you can contact him he might be able to quantify how the 
extra weight affected performance.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of James 
Nichols via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2015 9:30 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: James Nichols
Subject: Stus-List NOWFUEL

This is one of the things I have been considering with my dinghy that I am 
going to add to my C 39. I really don't want gasoline on the boat.

I thought about just having row and sail power for my dinghy, but the are times 
and places that having a motor would be desirable.

There are some small diesel motors on ebay, for less than a few hundred dollars 
and I enjoy construction projects. So, I thought about making either a diesel 
outdoors out of on, or building a dinghy and making it have an inboard diesel 
motor.

I've downloaded some plans for a small water taxi type boat with an inboard 
gasoline engine of about 3hp. I am looking at how to adapt the design to a 
stitch and glue build.

I'm sure that I'll need to install davits to carry it as there really isn't 
open deck space on the 39 to carry it forward.

Any one have experience in adding davits to the 39?
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Re: Stus-List Diesel ventilation

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Is the vent cover near the new engines fan/alternator belt?

Calypso’s Perk 4-108 belts kick off a dust/soot like debris that gathers on the 
nearby sound insulation.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Charlie 
Nelson via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, December 28, 2015 3:25 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: cenel...@aol.com
Subject: Stus-List Diesel ventilation

I had my Yanmar 30GM replaced about 10 years ago with a Beta-28--it fit 
physically and was the proper power for my 36XL.

The yard did a really good job of sound insulating the engine compartment with 
the plastic lined 1/2 inch foam--previously
there was no insulation.

A year or 2 later I replaced my AC unit and removed the ductwork which 
previously delivered air under the nav station for the main and forward
cabins. I left the vent cover in place to cover the hole left behind when I 
ripped out the flexible ductwork.

Since then, I have noticed a build-up of what looks like a layer of greasy soot 
on the fiberglass under the nav station.

All the recent comments about diesel ventilation got me to thinking that maybe 
this soot is from the engine, which has
the usual exhaust system. Further, I never smell exhaust down below but this 
soot returns after cleaning--not immediately
but after a few months of light use, going out and in from the race course.

The engine never seems starved for air and of course the bilge is open to the 
engine as are pathways via the
aft cockpit lockers, etc.

I can't see how sucking air in thru these vents
would bring the oily soot with it. OTOH, I don't see how or why the engine 
would force engine room air out this vent. AFAIK, the
air for combustion gets into the compartment from normal openings via the bilge 
and the aft lockers, none of which are close
to air-tight.

I have never noticed any air flow near this vent during operation--if there is 
any it is pretty light.

Any thoughts on what might cause this?

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C 36 XL/kcb

cenel...@aol.com
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Re: Stus-List Folding props

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

> The time it takes between putting her into reverse and actually moving 
> backward with flow over the rudder is what can take several seconds with a 
> folder… If other things are happening nearby (current, wind, pilings, etc.), 
> these few seconds can seem like a very long time!.


Back in the mid 70’s I was crewing on a C 39.  The local rock star sailmaker 
was onboard for an event on Lake Washington related to Seattle Yacht Club’s 
Opening Day parade.  A few adult beverages may have been consumed in the 
process of crossing the lake to join a party at another competitor’s lake front 
home.

When it was pointed out to the rock star he was pointing the 39’s bow into a 
covered slip, he quickly hit reverse (A4 engine, Martec folding prop) and added 
throttle.  With the standard delay in actually retarding the vessel’s forward 
motion the 39’s forestay (Stearn’s twin stay IIRC) made a noticeable twanging 
sound as it hit the metal roof over the slip.

It was hard to find the rock star at the party that afternoon.  Years later 
that rock star became Calypso’s insurance agent.  I don’t think he ever forgot 
how long it takes to reverse direction with a folding prop.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Charlie 
Nelson via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 22, 2015 12:20 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: cenel...@aol.com
Subject: Stus-List Folding props

I was not referring to feathering props. As I understand them, they are 
designed to be about equal in forward or reverse.
My former Max-Prop 3 blade feathering prop was excellent and relatively quickly 
got the boat going in reverse.

Any geared folding 2-blade prop will get a boat moving in reverse--just not 
very efficiently--especially if it is optimized for forward motion
and minimum drag when folded.

The time it takes between putting her into reverse and actually moving backward 
with flow over the rudder is what can take several seconds with a folder..

If other things are happening nearby (current, wind, pilings, etc.), these few 
seconds can seem like a very long time!.

Charlie Nelson
C 36 XL/kcb
Water Phantom

cenel...@aol.com
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Re: Stus-List Welcome to a great resource! [was "Lines led forward"]

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

> I’m reading that using a sock can be a bit challenging and can easily foul 
> midway through the hoist or douse if care isn’t taken to keep lines clear.  
> Any recommendations?  Can one assume that the ATN or North products work 
> equally well (or poorly)?


I have an ATN sock on Calypso and have used other ATN socks on offshore 
deliveries of two other boats at 46’ and 55’.  I have not used a North Sails 
spinnaker sock.

The ATN has a feature to help reduce control line tangling.  The control lines 
run through a different color fabric sleeve.  On Calypso’s ATN sock, the 
control line sleeve is grey, the rest of the sock white.

When hoisting, I make sure all the grey colored fabric is facing in, top to 
bottom.  This practice has almost always worked to prevent the control lines 
from either being twisted or set to the outside, away from the deck.  When I 
pack the sail/sock combo into its bag, I follow the grey color fabric just like 
following a spinnaker’s luff tape.  I leave the head draped over the bag’s 
opening until the collar, clews, and control line has been neatly stacked at 
the top of the bag.

After a hoist, I tie the control lines to a cleat near the base of the mast.  
When gybing I move the control line forward and temporarily tie it to the bow 
pulpit, forward of the forestay.  After the gybe is complete I move the line 
back to the mast base on the leeward side, ready for a dowse should one be 
called for.

One of the tangling while hoisting issues I have experienced +-50% of the time 
is a bunching of the sail material making it difficult to raise the collar.  
Calypso’s symmetrical spinnaker is full size with broad shoulders.  If, during 
the prior take down the sail material was not uniformly distributed as the sock 
was lowered the material bunches 2/3rds the way down.

To reduce the hassle factor of this bunching (I may have referred to this as 
Calypso’s panties have gotten into a bunch) once the sail/sock is at full hoist 
and the cockpit crew is ready for the sail to be released I pull handfuls of 
sail material down out of the collar as the crew gently pulls back on the sheet 
(the guy is pre-fed into position).  By pulling down on the material it clears 
the bunched up sail and the collar rises quickly.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]


On Dec 22, 2015, at 7:28 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
> wrote:

Hi All,
I’m purchasing a Landfall 35 that has a brand new gennaker but no sock or 
snuffer.  From several forum posts, I’m reading that using a sock can be a bit 
challenging and can easily foul midway through the hoist or douse if care isn’t 
taken to keep lines clear.  Any recommendations?  Can one assume that the ATN 
or North products work equally well (or poorly)?   Most of the sailhandling 
with be done double handed with the help of my teenage son, thus the reason for 
the post.  The main and jib halyards are run aft to the cockpit, but I believe 
the spin halyard stays up by the mast, something I may likely change.  The new 
boat is on the hard, mast down and there aren’t any winches on the mast (only 
on the boom for outhaul and reefing).  From the factory, this boat has two 
dedicated halyard winches and cleats (not clutches) on the coach roof with pass 
through holes in the cockpit coaming for the main and jib halyards, but not 
seeing anything obvious for the spin halyard.
Thanks in advance for any feedback from sock users…
Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic
1975 25 Mk1

S/V Orion
1983 Landfall 35
Padanaram, MA

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Re: Stus-List Lines led forward

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

> The question next is what to do about the spinnaker halyard. I can probably 
> make a case for it being forward in some configuration given that my wife and 
> I will be using a cruising A-sym with a sock and that would only be in 
> lightish air.

On Calypso and our last boat (a C 36) we had the spin halyard forward so 1 
person is able to hoist/dowse with the spin sock.

Calypso’s full size spin, even in a ATN sock is a hand full in TWS above 15.  
Both hoisting and dropping, in the sock, is easier on a run.  Avoid either on a 
reach.  Early in our double-handed racing I got a bit too fancy with my leeward 
mark rounding tactics and was nearly dragged off the foredeck by the sock’s 
windage.

Back when we had the 36, the cruising A-sym in a sock was easy to handle in any 
conditions that a spinnaker would be needed.  Having the halyard forward 
allowed me to hold it in one hand and use the other to wrangle the sock onto 
the foredeck.  Both the ATN sock(s) and the cuff that goes over a rolled up 
headsail for the A-sym tack have worked well.  For Calypso I wish there had 
been a carbon fiber hoop option back in 1999 when we purchased our sock.  The 
large size fiberglass version is a bit heavy.  Maybe after I finish Calypso’s 
deck rebuild I will fabricate a carbon hoop at home.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave Godwin 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, December 21, 2015 4:25 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dave Godwin
Subject: Re: Stus-List Lines led forward

These observations bring me back to the realities of halyard/reef management 
with lines led aft versus forward.

“Forward” on larger boats generally means winches mounted on the mast in-line 
with the halyards with appropriate line-stoppers. With this configuration, and 
suitable bracing, reefing the main in rough weather is pretty “safe” and in my 
experience faster and more efficient.

I’m afraid that my 37’ just doesn’t quite make the grade in terms of a 
larger,more stable boat, much that I might wish otherwise. And what I am trying 
to achieve is less clutter in the cockpit which is at odds with safety 
considerations. I have no intention nor do I think if would be very feasible to 
mount winches on my mast. This leaves me with the prospect of moving the 
mechanical advantage away from the mast to a position in the middle of the 
boat. That modification right away eliminates the ability for one person to 
quickly pull in a reef from a single location.

With that in mind, it may devolve down to moving the both the jib halyards 
forward. I don’t race this boat nor will I ever and after the furling jib is 
hoisted the 1st jib halyard is rarely touched unless there is a pressing need 
to adjust luff tension. The 2nd jib halyard remains dormant for the season and 
is reserved for emergency duties. Inside/outside peels are thing of the past…

Right now a quick analysis leads to keeping the main halyard, 1st and 2nd 
reefing lines led aft to the cockpit. One winch for the main halyard and one 
for the mainsheet which will reduce the winch farm from four to two. Reefing 
lines led to the “unloaded” main halyard winch after the main has been placed 
in the tack horn and secured by one of several line stoppers.

The question next is what to do about the spinnaker halyard. I can probably 
make a case for it being forward in some configuration given that my wife and I 
will be using a cruising A-sym with a sock and that would only be in lightish 
air. The symmetrical has been retired and most likely the spinnaker pole will 
continue to reside in the rafters of my shed.

Much as I keep thinking about moving back to winch farms on the deck, that is 
an artifact from the old IOR/Tonner days with lot’s of young agile crew.

I dunno, clearly it’s still a moving target for me. More crumpled up pieces of 
paper with deck layout designs in the trash can.

Cheers,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit
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Re: Stus-List Lines led forward

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Calypso still has the halyards and reefing lines forward.  The spinnaker pole 
downhaul (foreguy) runs aft, the pole topping lift can be led forward or aft 
depending on the number of crew available during dip pole gybes.

Calypso, being a very early IOR design with lots of displacement has a 
seakindly nature in most sailing conditions making it relatively secure to reef 
from the mast.  If the boat was smaller and/or lighter the security of being 
able to reef from the cockpit would begin to look good.

I still use the original Barient #1 wire halyard winch for the mainsail so I do 
not have to deal with long lines or tailing. Use of the wire winch is made 
easier with Harken Batt cars and full battens and decades of practice.  As 
mentioned by others, someone needs to be by the mast to hook the reef cringle 
into the reef  tack horn.  With the halyard, tack horn, and reefing lines all 
within a few feet of each other single handed reefing is straight forward and 
fast.  Most of the time I can go from no reef to first reef <2 minutes, but 2nd 
reef to 3rd takes longer.

When sailing double handed I keep the spinnaker pole topping lift up forward so 
I am able to preset the foreguy and topping lift to their marks allowing for 
them to be self-tending during a dip pole gybe.  Once I have the new guy in the 
pole jaws I quickly raise the topping lift to allow the helmsman/trimmer to 
complete pulling the pole aft.  I leave the foreguy set to a height that will 
not cause drama and allow the pole to get close to a proper angle.

I keep the foreguy led aft as our most regular pole adjustments are fore and 
aft.  When Calypso is staffed with enough crew I do run the topping lift back 
next to the foreguy.  I have marks on the topping lift line itself for both 
fore and aft positions indicating the proper setting to clear the forestay and 
pulpit during the gybe.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew 
Burton via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, December 21, 2015 5:35 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Burton
Subject: Stus-List Lines led forward

I wonder, am I alone in the group leading lines forward? The only lines I'm 
going to have coming aft to the cabin top will be the mainsheet and the 
traveler lines...and I'm thinking of eliminating the traveler all together. I 
just don't want all that extra spaghetti in the cockpit. Bulkheads are for 
leaning against on my cruising boat! 
I hate single line reeling; there's just too much friction in the system for 
boats over 30' so I'm going to be at the mast when I reef, anyway. And I want 
to be there to see how the sail comes down or clear any fouls as it goes up, so 
I like being forward to hoist and drop the halyard.
This whole business of leading everything aft started with singlehanded race 
boats and for good reason, given how they sail. But my autopilot--or 
wife--keeps the boat head-to-wind just fine as I hoist.
So what's the opposite thinking from the assembled brain trust here?
Hope everyone has a very merry Christmas and a happy and prosperous New Year 
filled with lots of wonderful days sailing.

Andy
C 40
Peregrine
Newport, RI

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260
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Re: Stus-List Cost to recover cushions - ouch

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

> C 35 MK I with likely the worst cushions in the fleet.

Is this a challenge?  Some of the cushions on Calypso are original from 1970.  
They are covered in the red, white, blue plaid design common to C of the 
era.  I suspect they survived this long because when the boat was raced locally 
the cushions were in storage.  I have no desire to look closely for stains, 
especially with a black light.

To make the V berth (which on Calypso consists of hinged plywood covers over 
the sail storage lockers) more comfortable when cruising I had thicker cushions 
covered with sunbrella made up.  I kept the thin, well used V berth cushions 
that came with the boat for racing deliveries.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, December 18, 2015 12:08 PM
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'
Cc: Della Barba, Joe
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cost to recover cushions - ouch

Not sure why anyone would have to come to the boat. All the rolled stuff looks 
to be stapled along the edges. Just take it to the shop and restaple the new 
stuff yourself.
Joe DB
Coquina
C 35 MK I with likely the worst cushions in the fleet

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, December 18, 2015 2:58 PM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cost to recover cushions - ouch

Many of you are fortunate to have all separate removable cushions, bottoms and 
backs.  Touche's dinette and settee backs are single rolled and pleated 
wraparound units stapled to the cabinetry.  I like the look.  It would be very 
pricey to replace because the workman would almost certainly have to come to 
the boat.
Many owners have removed this look and gone with separate cushion backs.
Dennis C.
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Re: Stus-List Hiller Range Parts...

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Sure Marine in Seattle.

IIRC Sure Marine purchased left over "obsolete" inventory from several stove 
manufacturers.  The counter staff have been very knowledgeable each time I 
visit with a pile of old boat parts looking for replacements.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 15, 2015 11:06 AM
To: CNC CNC
Cc: David
Subject: Stus-List Hiller Range Parts...

Trying to rebuild the surface burners of my three burner Hiller range.   
Apparently parts are super hard to come by.   Anybody have a secret source of 
parts or have some laying about in their basement?  Everything works fine but 
the burners look a little tough.

Thanks in advance...

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)
[https://ipmcdn.avast.com/images/logo-avast-v1.png]

This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast.
www.avast.com


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Re: Stus-List Wabasto furness

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

The Webasto factory parts we replaced last month (after 16 years of use) 
returned Calypso's T-90S to "like new" performance.  I did not see a "made in 
China" label on the new burner assembly.  Even after the 16 years of use (+-350 
hours) the old burner assembly was at an estimated ½ life but we chose to 
replace it as the service calls get expensive if done at a remote location.

The Sure Marine tech noticed our original furnace installation did not have 
enough intake hose length to balance the intake and exhaust pressure.  A $10 
piece of hose added to the intake made the furnace's start up faster and 
quieter.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Coleman 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 15, 2015 10:57 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Coleman
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wabasto furness

Look at all those knock off hoverboards, blowing up like Pintos!
Personally, I would get the Wasbasto.  If, when you get it, it sez, 'Made in 
China', then I don't know what to say . . .

Bill Coleman
C 39 Erie, PA

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Fred Hazzard 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 15, 2015 11:51 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Fred Hazzard
Subject: Stus-List Wabasto furness

I need to replace the dosing pump on my Wabasto airtop 3500/ 5000 furness. Â  I 
can buy a Wasbasto replacement for about $200 or a Chinese one for about $75 on 
ebay. I am looking for listers feelings about using the knock off  pump .


Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Auto pilot clamp, threaded rod.

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Brian,

Welcome aboard the cnc-list.

Is it possible the rod is only threaded on the exposed ends allowing it to be 
pressed out?

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brian Fry 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, December 11, 2015 3:23 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Brian Fry
Subject: Stus-List Fwd: Auto pilot clamp, threaded rod.


Hello, my name is Brian. I recently bought La Neige, a 1993 37/40xl.
I am in the Chesapeake.

http://i.imgur.com/5faMwZ9.jpg

The link is to a picture of my C 37/40 auto pilot clamp, where it attaches to 
the rudder shaft. The threaded rod has no bolt head to unscrew the rod.
Has anyone dealt with this issue? I need to drop my rudder, and this is not 
allowing that to happen.
.
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Re: Stus-List Sails

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

I have cleaned Calypso's sails in my driveway using a product made for cleaning 
sunbrella type canvas.  I don't recall the name but it works similar to 
Oxyclean type products.  I bought it at the big canvas shop in Ballard.



After a short soak of the heavy mildew/dirt areas I use a long handled boat 
brush to scrub off the big chunks, rinse, then repeat without a soak.



To get access to large areas of the sail I stretched it between the building, a 
basketball hoop, step ladder, and my truck bumper.  I left it out (done in late 
spring or fall) to mostly dry before taking down to the boat to finish drying.



It is a lot of work but I'm still too cheap to pay $500+ for the service.



Martin

Calypso

1971 C 43

Seattle


From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Douglas via 
CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 2015 9:55 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Douglas
Subject: Stus-List Sails

Happy Holiday Everyone
I purchased my boat a year ago and trying to learn everything I can, while at 
the same time spit and polish the boat.
She is a 38-ft MKIII. I just took the Jib/Genoa down to replace on the running 
rigging. Now I want to CLEAN and store the sail for the winter. I believe it is 
125% Genoa. Just not sure what material. It is neil pryde sail.
The question is, what is the best way to clean such a large sail. I have read 
the solution should be a mild laundry detergent and fabric softener, Is this 
correct.
I thought about putting a tarp in the back of my pickup bed and letting it soak 
overnight and then pulling it out by the head and scrubbing with a soft nylon 
brush on both sides as I go. I can take a couple of sawhorses and build a 4X8 
work platform to scrub on. Rinsing and flaking it onto another tarp on the 
ground. Then hanging it in the garage to dry.
Any thoughts. How do you all do it?
Thanks
Larry
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Re: Stus-List Sails

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

I don't know how the full strength Oxy type cleaning products effect sails but 
the stuff I used was intended to be used on Sunbrella so it my be a milder 
version.  It may have been called or sold by Osso.



A while back there was a sail cleaning discussion here or on Sailing Anarchy 
where a person recommended throwing the sail into a neighbor's swimming pool.  
The chlorine apparently does a good job.  Others posting to that discussion did 
express concern about the chlorine's effect on the sails and stitching.



Re fir droppings: I agree it is worth the effort to keep tree and lawn debris 
off the sail.  Here in the PNW those little bits of organic material are 
incubators for mold and green goo.  I hose off my driveway before cleaning 
Calypso's sails to minimize the exposure and carefully rinsed or brushed off 
any bits that I noticed when folding the sail up.



I keep Calypso at Shilshole.  For the last few years there has been an increase 
in monitoring for "soap" suds running off the boats.  Even if a 
"environmentally safe" cleaning product is being used, my read of the marina's 
rules indicates no soap bubbles are allowed.  Back a few years it was possible 
to clean the sails on board on a calm day.  I would start with the sail hoisted 
and scrub all that I could reach then lower it and repeat until it was all 
scrubbed.  Then to rinse I would reverse the process leaving it hoisted to dry.



Martin

Calypso

1971 C 43

Calypso


From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Douglas via 
CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 2015 12:02 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Douglas
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sails

Martin
I Oxyclean and similar products contain dehydrated hydrogen peroxide and I read 
where that is bad for some sail. I don’t know if that is true or not. Do you 
know. I know that would really brighten up the sail.
I thought about using it.
I don’t mind the cost, but it is extremely too high just to clean the sail and 
repairs are extra. That is close to 1/3 the price for a similar sail.  I have a 
friend who has a sewing setup similar to a Para loft (military parachute shop) 
and do any stitching I need.
I was going to hang 3 or 4 closet 1” dowel from the ceiling in the garage and 
drape it over the rods like Christmas candy ribbon.  That should give plenty of 
room to dry them. I could tie them to the bumper and a couple of fir trees, but 
I don’t the fir drippings would be good for the sails.
I will contact a couple of sail places in the area and see what say. I hear 
they all are sent to Bainbridge Island for cleaning.
Larry

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Martin 
DeYoung via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 2015 11:05 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Martin DeYoung
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sails


I have cleaned Calypso's sails in my driveway using a product made for cleaning 
sunbrella type canvas.  I don't recall the name but it works similar to 
Oxyclean type products.  I bought it at the big canvas shop in Ballard.



After a short soak of the heavy mildew/dirt areas I use a long handled boat 
brush to scrub off the big chunks, rinse, then repeat without a soak.



To get access to large areas of the sail I stretched it between the building, a 
basketball hoop, step ladder, and my truck bumper.  I left it out (done in late 
spring or fall) to mostly dry before taking down to the boat to finish drying.



It is a lot of work but I'm still too cheap to pay $500+ for the service.



Martin

Calypso

1971 C 43

Seattle
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Re: Stus-List Epoxy fillers and other stuff...

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

I concur with Dave’s approach.

Faced with building up a large area around Calypso’s mast collar (we replaced 
the original plywood with solid glass/epoxy board) I used both epoxy board and 
many layers of 25 oz. bi-ax.  We worked from below as the deck’s inner skin is 
only 1/8” and the outer skin is ¼” to 7/16” thick.  I fabricated shapes of 
epoxy board that were used as an insert.  I built up the insert’s thickness 
with laminations of bi-ax and thickened epoxy.

To completely replace the plywood I needed ½” of build thickness. The insert 
ran between ¼” and 3/8”.  It took 7 to 8 additional layers of 25 oz. bi-ax 
(includes a layer of mat).  To reduce sanding I planned to complete the 
lamination in one session.  Even using vacuum bagging the weight of all that 
resin, cloth, and inserts was difficult to manage.  I ended up using the 
inserts as the last layer and physically applying pressure to aid the vacuum in 
removing voids.

Given my easy access to epoxy board, for the C 25’s keel bolt area build up I 
would use two thinner pieces of epoxy board (easier to shape) then build it up 
with cloth and resin.  I would follow Dave’s recommendations of prep steps to 
insure a good bond.  To protect the keel bolt threads I would use a piece of 
sheet Mylar or similar slipper film stuffed along the bolt with some 5 minute 
epoxy used to seal the edges.

If access to the repair area is difficult, consider the time trade off of 
opening up the floor above the bolt vs. working in very confined spaces.  
Rebuilding a flat floor area may be faster than time spent fighting an awkward 
location.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 25, 2015 8:23 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dave
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy fillers and other stuff...

Ahmet - I think I get what you are trying to do.  A pre laminated and fitted 
angle would work.  Make a form, wider than you need and build up layers.  Make 
it way to big, then Trim and bevel to fit. (Angle grinder).  Epoxy in place, 
fill the void(pre drill) then laminate in place.

Btw, mat is NOT structural. it fills the spaces between the warp and weft of 
cloth or roving, making a denser laminate.

Others may disagree - would be interested in alternative approaches.

Dave

Ahmet - my approach to making flat pieces is to first laminate on a sheet of 
glass. With polyester, I build-up glass/mat alternating and laminated to a high 
glass content with a consolidator.  (A kind of roller)
With epoxy you can use biaxial stitch-mat with fine cloth or peel ply on top, 
then squeegee out  resin.  Use a layer of waxed paper between the glass (or 
Mdf) as a release layer.
If cured on the glass you can make amazing sheet parts, and assemble them with 
with fillets of epoxy.
You can also do the work above on a sheet of waxed paper and apply the 
resulting laminate before it kicks.  You basically make a band-aid and plop it 
in place.  (Essentially)Much easier and better than laminating in situ.  You 
can take these laminates and lay on a form, pre cure.
By progressively sizing the pieces, you can make band aids thicker in the 
middle, often useful.

In your case, if I understand correctly, I would combine both pre made pieces 
and pre laminated 'band aids).
I would fill the void with glass-rich epoxy.  If you need it to flow and level, 
use only a little cabosil.
You can get a veterinary syringe or make a piping bag out of a ziplock if you 
need to inject into a space.
Consider laying cloth on its bias for corners bridging seams.   Remember to 
feather edges to maximize gluing.

Dave.

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Re: Stus-List Update: Re: Keel attachment issues on a C 25

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Ahmet,

If you are diving deep into your C 25’s build history I recommend contacting 
the Marine Museum of the Great Lakes and purchasing the original build drawings.

Here is the contact info I used in March 2015:

Sandrena Raymond
Curator
Marine Museum of the Great Lakes at Kingston
(613) 542-2261 | cura...@marmuseum.ca

The curator searches the archives by boat type.  In March the digital copies 
were $10.00 each, printed also $10.00 with a longer lead time.

I was very happy with the service and continue to be happy I purchased the 
drawings.  Calypso being hull #1 of the “Limited Edition” 43 series did not 
have some of the re-enforcements added to later hulls and decks.  Going through 
the drawings I picked up a few places to add extra re-enforcement during our 
ongoing deck refirb project.  If the museum has the full set of build drawing 
for your boat’s production run ask for copies of the materials and parts used 
list.  I expect there is detail on the keel bolt attachment both internal and 
how the bolts are terminated in the lead.

I also found hand drawn notes from the C design team specifying the stern 
modifications done in 1974 to lower the IOR rating.  It is a comfort to know 
the C team was involved.  Along with hull, deck, and interior construction 
details I purchased all the rig, rudder, and keel drawings available.  Hand 
written in on the keel drawing was the actual casting weight of the keels for 
the first 3 43’s built.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ahmet via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 24, 2015 8:34 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ahmet
Subject: Re: Stus-List Update: Re: Keel attachment issues on a C 25

I suspect, you are right. 40+ years of corrosion.
 Was it lack of material knowlege ?, cutting costs on hardware ?, I was trying 
to figure out what the material is. It is very magnetic, So I presume it was 
just simple steel.  The nuts and bolts are in good shape after all.

Nonetheless, I love Tabasco, and once these simple kinks are fixed, she will 
probably outlast me :)
Rick said:
>The steel backing plates probably were original.

Ahmet


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Re: Stus-List Epoxy fillers and other stuff...

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

>... Talc - cheap-ass filler used in bondo and 'cow flap' polyester used in our 
>c

Is "cow flap" polyester the same orange, hard filler used by Bruckmann's in the 
early 70's?  I have heard it called "bog".

Many of the failed balsa areas in Calypso's deck were bordered by the orange 
"bog" filler.  Water intrusion from one place would migrate through cracks in 
the bog to many other places.

Back in 1998 we repaired hull fractures (actually leaking sea water into the 
bilge) caused by the forward keel stub's bog failing to prevent flexing.  My 
best guess is 28 years of hard sailing made harder by the use of hydraulic back 
stay tensioners stressed the solid glass layup to fracture.  Sea water found 
the path into the bilge through the cracked bog filler.

The 1998/99 repair was to grind out all the bog, re-laminate inside and out, 
and finish up with much less epoxy filler.  After looking at the C build 
drawings for the early 43's I noticed C/Bruckmann's added extra structure 
forward from the mast step to stiffen this area.  We will be adding something 
similar during the current deck restoration project.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 24, 2015 5:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dave
Subject: Stus-List Epoxy fillers and other stuff...

Glass strands (various lengths from milled fibres to chopped strands)- hard to 
fair but strong - structural.
Fumed silica - cab-o-sil - this is a colloidal filler, it keeps the epoxy from 
flowing.  This is not the same thing as making it 'thicker'  - glass will do 
that, but without silica, the reain can still run, fillers can still sag.  You 
need silica to make putty.The stiffness of the mix will vary - is this for 
coating, laminating, adhesion with gap filling, fairing, structural filling?
Micro balloons - fillers with various degrees of fair-ability.  Different 
materials.
Talc - cheap-ass filler used in bondo and 'cow flap' polyester used in our 
c  

Peel ply - a nylon material that is porous to epoxy that can be lifted off 
after cure.  Leaves a finished surface.  (More significant in vaccum bagging).  
 Nylon taffeta from the fabric store works. 

Acetone can be used on a cloth to help shape 'b stage' epoxy.  Isopropyl 
alcohol for clean up (a challenge)

Waxed paper or 'tack tape' works as a release. 

I welcome critiques or additions  Lots of good info on the gougeon site and 
many others .

Great stuff to experiment with.

Dave 


Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Update: Re: Keel attachment issues on a C 25

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

>… a bit leery of using the G10 as a backing material.

Properly sized G10 and similar high density epoxy board material is likely 
stronger that the surrounding hull structure.  For keel bolts I would use a SS 
washer under the nut but if additional spacers are needed, even on our 43’s 
9,000 lb. keel I would use epoxy board.

A plus to the epoxy/glass board is the lack of corrosion and relative ease of 
machining (drilling / shaping) however epoxy/glass board will dull drill bits 
and other cutting tools quickly.

On Calypso I have used many different thicknesses of G10 and FR4 (fire 
retardant) in the ongoing deck repair/restoration project.  I have access to 
many thicknesses and types of epoxy board as my company uses it in many 
products.

Calypso’s new deck hardware backing plates are epoxy board or a layup of 
several layers of epoxy board and bi-ax cloth when additional  thickness is 
called for.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 24, 2015 8:31 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Brass
Subject: Re: Stus-List Update: Re: Keel attachment issues on a C 25

Ahmet;

As I said before, I replaced the original steel backing plates (if I recall, 
they were more like steel fender washers) on my 25 when she was a bit over 20 
years old. I had some square backing plates made out of 3/16” or ¼” stainless. 
About 3 or 4 inches square and with the proper sized holes drilled in the 
middle.  A local machine shop could probably knock out the 5 or 6 plates you 
will need in not much more than an hour – or you might get a friend with a 
suitable shop in his garage to do it for the price of a 12 pack. I think I put 
a bead of 4200 under each plate when I torqued them down, but I suspect that 
was actually overkill.

Were I to do the same job today, I would go to Fastenall, or another industrial 
hardware supplier, and buy a stack of stainless fender washers of the 
appropriate sizes and just put two washers under each nut and retorque the nuts.

Proper torque on the nut is very important. I think I borrowed or rented a 
torque wrench and a torque multiplier from a local NAPA store when I did my 
project. The photo album has a listing of the proper torque values.

If you had no leakage when you removed the nut, the sealant between the top of 
the keel and the keel stub is still doing its job after 40-some years. Proper 
torque on the keel boats will keep it so. Sealant on the inside of the joint is 
probably not going to keep any leakage out. But sealant between the washers and 
the bolt in the presence of water in the bilge is a potential recipe for 
crevice corrosion that will weaken the bolt.

If your boat is like mine, that may not be a concern. Belle is a very dry boat. 
Every 6 months or so I clean out the bilge – usually with a sponge. I don’t 
recall having accumulated more than an inch of water in the bilge since I 
refinished and rebidded the handrails and added some butyl around the chain 
plates a decade or more ago.

I would personally be a bit leery of using the G10 as a backing material. You 
have a lot of compression under the nuts, but you also might have shock loading 
if you ever run aground, and a fair bit of torsional loading as the boat heels 
and moves in the waves while sailing. I think stainless would be a stronger and 
more conservative choice.


Rick Brass
Imzadi  C 38 mk 2
la Belle Aurore C 25 mk1
Washington, NC
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Re: Stus-List Low viscosity Epoxy was Re: Subject: Re: Keel repair

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

I recommend a small amount of thickened epoxy under a piece of G10.  If you use 
a low viscosity (read un-filled) epoxy it may not be reliable under the keel 
bolt clamping force.

If I was performing the same repair on Calypso I would clean / roughen the 
area, butter in some thickened epoxy, place a layer of glass cloth or mat (to 
prevent squeezing out all the epoxy) and top it with the shaped G10.  I would 
butter the bottom of the G10 with thickened epoxy.  Add a little weight or 
clamping pressure to compress the lamination to the desired height checking to 
be sure it is close to parallel with the bottom of the nut.

If there is a concern of epoxy bonding to the keel bolt or nut there are 
several mold release products and tapes available.  Peel ply used in vacuum 
bagging can be very useful.  Let me know if you go this route and need a small 
piece.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ahmet via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 24, 2015 10:36 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ahmet
Subject: Stus-List Low viscosity Epoxy was Re: Subject: Re: Keel repair

Not not hijack this tread, I changed the subject. Since we seem to have epoxy 
experts here.

I am trying to take out some slight unevenness from the bottom of my bilge so 
that my keel bolt washers have an even contact.
 Can I use some low viscosity epoxy, just pour it into the bilge, probably dam 
of the area around the keel bolt with some tape, and let gravity do the 
leveling.
We are talking maybe 1/4 in thickness at the highest point.

I was originally thinking of using Marine-Tex but there are some areas which 
are a bit awkward to get to.


The issue is that At 200 lbs-ft the clamping force is about 12,000 lbs. So I 
need something that will not crumble under the pressure.

So the problem is to be low viscosity yet high compression strength.
Thank you
Ahmet
C 25
Boston, MA

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Re: Stus-List Not What I Ordered - was New Sails TODAY!!!

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Tom,

Thanks for the pics of your new sails.  Now I miss the nekked pics in the new 
format Playboy mags a little less.

Congrats on the upgrade to carbon fiber tapes.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom 
Buscaglia via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, November 12, 2015 10:51 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tom Buscaglia
Subject: Stus-List Not What I Ordered - was New Sails TODAY!!!

Stuart Dahlgren from UK Sails NW showed up with my new sails yesterday.  But 
they were NOT what I ordered!

I ordered the UK Tape Drive with the Glass Fiber tapes.  Well it turns out that 
when they were engineering the sails it was determined that the load levels 
would be near the upper edge of the Glass Fibers.  So, Stuart took it upon 
himself to upgrade the sails to the Carbon Fiber tapes at no extra charge.  It 
was a pleasant surprise when I peeked in the bags.  Definitely not what I 
ordered, but I am not complaining.

Stuart Dahlgren took the time to hand deliver them and handled the 
installation, including making sure that the mainsail was all good for our 
Schaefer in-boom furling.  He trimmed the battens as well for a perfect fit.  
Then he hung out at our club to BS with a few sailors.  Since it was too late 
for him to drive home to Sidney, we invited him to stay over for dinner and an 
evening of Scotch and sailing talk.  Then a quick breakfast this morning before 
taking off today.

I cannot recommend this guy enough.  www.UKSails.ca if 
anyone is interested.

And if you want to check out the sails, there are some good pics here - 
https://www.flickr.com/photos/37365243@N00/

I cannot wait to take them out for a spinwoohoo!

Tom B


Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com

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Re: Stus-List Scope of work (formerly Replacing Windows)

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Dave,

“Scope of Work” is an apt name for what I was attempting to describe.

Fortunately for Calypso I enjoy working on a boat *almost* as much as sailing.  
Also, the way Calypso was built is conducive to DIY projects.  There is no 
headliner, most of the interior is painted white, and the basic nature of a 
70’s race interior give great access to the likely trouble spots.  The interior 
is “stick built” meaning there is no pan liner.  All the bulkheads, sole 
supports, and furniture are painted wood allowing for easy modifications or 
repairs.

Looking back I now wish we had rented a shed and moved the boat inland to allow 
more industrial equipment use along the use of spray paint guns.  I’m not sure 
we would have dropped the keel but it would have been a close call.  Having the 
mast out would have greatly simplified the repairs to the mast collar area.

Calypso’s co-owner and I have been intentionally vague with our wives about a 
finish date (and project cost) but we are hoping for a late 2016 return to 
sailing. (That sound you hear is me knocking on wood.)

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave Godwin 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, November 12, 2015 2:54 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dave Godwin
Subject: Stus-List Scope of work (formerly Replacing Windows)

Martin and Russ,

I wanted to circle back to your comments, in particular the limitations that 
many listers may have when replacing or repairing the fixed ports.

I agree with Martin that my tool recommendations may not be suitable for those 
who do not need nor want a complete deck redo. I sort of recognized that 
dynamic when I was putting the blog post together but I was moving fast.

I’m fortunate that I have the means, time and location to achieve my goals. I 
think I’m making up for all those years when I raced my (other) boat while 
living in a small condo. I didn’t have the tools or space to store them so like 
many listers, I had to sort of make do either in a slip or in the short time 
period that the boat was hauled prior to race season in the Spring. I know how 
frustrating that can be. Being able to approach this rebuild from a 
professional perspective makes things easier.

Still, with some patience and the smaller tools I think the job can be done 
fairly neatly with good results by most.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

>… quick post in my blog showing the tools…

Dave,

I took a look at your new blog post detailing the tools you have used on the 
window frame clean up.  Nice write up, thanks.

I am jealous about your having access to compressed air and working where you 
can use it.  Where Calypso is moored there are restrictions on what work can be 
done in a slip.  I am already dancing down the line with electric 
sanding/grinding equipment and I am sure running a compressor and air tools 
would get me kicked out.

I believe many of the cnc-listers that are facing a DIY window or other deck 
repair/replacement project need to limit the mess, repainting, or do not have 
the experience and confidence to perform “body and fender” type work on the 
shiny parts of a boat.  I recall the day when Calypso’s co-owner and I finally 
faced up to the amount of repair Calypso’s deck needed and accepted a full 
repaint would be needed.  Once freed from the need to limit shiny paint damage 
we got out the big boy grinding and sanding equipment which greatly sped up the 
early phases of the repairs.

This month marked to point where way more hand sanding is needed with the 
resulting wear and tear on the arms and wrists (as you mention in your blog 
post).  I have been using hand sanding blocks and foam shapes (purchased from 
auto body repair equip sources) to improve the hand sanding ergonomics 
especially around the many corners and rounded shapes of a C  The sticky 
back sand paper option increased efficiency over the old school paper clamps.  
I have had good luck sourcing abrasives through several web sites including 
Industrial Abrasives.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave Godwin 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2015 2:54 PM
To: Paul Eugenio via CnC-List
Cc: Dave Godwin
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

Gary,

Don’t get discouraged. It will work out.

That’s what I sleep telling myself every day...

Since most of the other posters have offered really good suggestions I decided 
to gen-up a quick post in my blog showing the tools that I have use and am 
using for the same project.

Hope it helps.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Gary,

Do you have a Fein multitool or similar oscillating power tool?

On Calypso I have been very pleased with the efficiency of my Fein multi tool 
and the carbide bits.  There is a triangle shaped bit that has course carbide 
and a semi-circle that has a finer carbide grit.  Both bit stand up to hard use 
on fiberglass and epoxy.  If I was faced with removing hard adhesive from a 
tight space I would use the triangle bit for its narrow contact area and ease 
of position control.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary Russell 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2015 10:55 AM
To: C List
Cc: Gary Russell
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

Hi Doug,
 While I am quite confident your tool will work well with sealants, I don't 
see how it will work with Plexus which is harder than the acrylic it attaches.  
If I am wrong please let me know, because I am killing myself trying to remove 
the Plexus.

Gary
S/V High Maintenance
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Re: Stus-List New to me C 33

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

>3.) Where can I find out the fiberglass layup schedule?

Paul,

A good place to find details on your C’s construction details is the Maritime 
Museum of the Great Lakes in Kingston.  I was able to buy copies of Calypso 
build drawings which have been very helpful on our deck restoration project.

Regarding your repair project, Sailing Anarchy’s Fixit Forum has had some great 
discussions on repairing damaged boats.  It may take a while to sort out the 
background noise to get to the good stuff but there are some very good posts 
relating to your type of project.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Paul Wyand 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 09, 2015 2:17 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Paul Wyand
Subject: Stus-List New to me C 33

I have purchased a 1976 C 33 MK I that had some fire damage (due to a fire on 
a neighboring boat) to the outside of the starboard side of the hull. she is 
floating but dirty all around. I am planing on doing  a modest restore on her. 
I am not looking for perfection but for a nice fun to sail boat that I will 
also live on. The previous owner was kind of a down to basics kind of guy. No 
shore power, no real electronics hank on sails. his daughter said that they 
tried to talk him into self tailing winches, and he said "what do I need self 
tailers for? I have you to tail the lines!" Has lots of sails, and the rest of 
the boat appears to be pretty good. So the plan is this winter clean up the 
interior, get shore power set up and some sort of heat so I can spend at least 
weekends on board working on the boat. I have her in a winter wet storage slip 
and the everything is winterized except the engine. she has the mast down and 
winter cover frame is up. Once I am in the final "winter slip" I will winterize 
the engine. Once the weather warms up enough I will have the boat hulled and I 
will do fiberglass repairs and paint the exterior. So a couple of questions:
1.) First and really simple, where is the cushion for the double bunk supposed 
to go when not in use? I don't see any simple locations. I have moved it as 
there is a bit of deck leaking over that settee.
2.) There was some damage to the side of the hull, and the neighboring boat's 
mast came down on the cabin top. There is some cracking on the cabin top, soft 
side deck and both of the fixed ports are damaged.
Obviously the ports are long off the market. I see a couple of options
make over-sized ports and surface mount to the cabin top sides both sides. 
(likely least expensive)
Get all new opening Bomar Gray 6X23 inch ports. Looks like they may fit, has 
anyone installed them?
Get two bomar ports and move one of the existing ports over and have two fixed 
and two opening ports (saves some money but the lenses on the existing ports 
are not great and looks like someone has tried to stop leaks with caulk, so may 
just be full of frustration)
3.) Where can I find out the fiberglass layup schedule? I want to duplicate it 
as much as possible. I have read that they used unidirectional roving on the 
boat. My plan on the hull side is to put a few layers on inside just to hold 
the shape, then from the outside to grind down till I get to good glass and 
build back up from there. On the cabin top and side decks I plan on cutting off 
the top layer of fiberglass and replacing core  and re-glass. Then paint the 
topsides and deck with one part paint and call it a day.
Good news is the boat has a Atomic 4 that runs like a champ! Made the 25 mile 
trip from storage yard to new home without a hiccup.
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Re: Stus-List Cabin Heat

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

>… the solid fuel heaters…
>… used driftwood for fuel.

One of my earliest memories of crewing on a C 39 was helping deliver it to 
Vancouver BC for the 1977 Southern Straits of Georgia race.  It was early that 
year so it was likely late March or early April and still a bit cool out.  The 
C 39 “Midnight Special” was equipped with a solid fuel cabin heater.  I do 
not recall the brand but it fit on the bulkhead just forward of the mast with 
the SS chimney exiting directly above.

Anchored in Fossil Bay, Sucia Island (in the US San Juan’s) we were cold and 
wet so the fire place was stoked with presto log fuel, then stoked again, and 
again.  When we smelled hot fiberglass it occurred to us that we had over fed 
the fire and the chimney was hot enough to scorch the deck.  IIRC I spent some 
time on deck with a bucket and sponge cooling it off as the pile of presto log 
pieces burned down.  None of us on board that night repeated that mistake.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, November 05, 2015 10:20 AM
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'
Cc: Della Barba, Joe
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cabin Heat

We used driftwood for fuel. They really don’t heat up the whole boat, the air 
circulation isn’t good enough. None of the bulkhead heaters work as well as 
forced air heat. Charcoal AFAIK puts out much more CO than wood.

Joe
Coquina
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan 
Plavsa via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, November 05, 2015 1:14 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Stevan Plavsa
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cabin Heat

Some good ideas, thanks guys.
I've also wondered about the solid fuel heaters, but they seem to be rated for 
smaller boats. At first glance, charcoal briquettes seem like a neat fuel 
management solution. Are they?

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Cabin Heat

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Fred,

I just used Sure Marine in Seattle for a Webasto T-90 service and tune-up.  The 
Webasto parts may have been higher priced than aftermarket brands but I got 16 
years out of the originals.

The service tech also gave me a hint on how to quickly prime the system after a 
pump or fuel filter change.  The hint had to do with taking the pump 12v 
positive lead and quickly tapping it on the systems 12v supply terminal.  Also, 
I used kerosene out of a store bought 1 gal container to pre-fill the new fuel 
filter which limited the amount of fuel system priming needed.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Fred Hazzard 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, November 05, 2015 3:34 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Fred Hazzard
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cabin Heat

I am in need of a dosing pump for my Wasbasto.  They want 1/2 as much as the 
Russian one .   Any suggestions where I could get a pump at a reasonable price?

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland,Or
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Re: Stus-List Cabin Heat

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Ron,

My understanding is an extra heat exchanger like the Red Hot cabin heater acts 
similar to an un-controlled radiator.  Calypso’s Perkins 4-108’s T-stat 
controls the flow of coolant through the raw water/coolant heat exchanger 
providing the ability to operate at the desired 180F.  If another heat 
exchanger is added that is not controlled by the engine T-stat it may be 
possible to remove enough waste heat to prevent the engine from reaching 180F.

When originally looking at how to heat Calypso’s cabin it was clear we would 
need at least two Red Hot type heat exchangers.  I don’t recall exactly who 
brought up the issue of removing too much waste heat but it was likely one of 
the diesel mechanics that has worked on Calypso’s 4-108.  I expect if we were 
running the 4-108 at 80% to 90% of capacity there would be plenty of extra heat 
available.  Our typical fall/winter use of the auxiliary engine is motoring for 
a short distance in calm conditions using less that 50% of the available 
horsepower.

I expect that a Red Hot could be plumbed in between the T-stat and the engine’s 
heat exchanger or have its own T-stat added if a cool running diesel engine 
became a problem.  As Joe indicated the A-4 and other gasoline engines do not 
seem to have a shortage of waste heat.  Diesels really prefer to be in that 
180/190F operating temp range.  Any day now I will be covering up part of my 
Cummins powered pickup truck’s radiator as my commute drive is too short and 
too slow to allow the engine to hit full operating temp and the local Rozzers 
frown on my need to speed in the interest of getting that Cummins up to temp.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: Description: 
cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ronald B. 
Frerker via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 04, 2015 2:37 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ronald B. Frerker
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cabin Heat

Don't these marine engines have thermostats that open/close to keep the engine 
temp constant?
If so, then would it be a problem draining off heat since it's only waste  
heat; the engine will still be constant.
Ron
Wild Cheri
C 30-1
STL



From: "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" 
To: "'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'" 
Cc: "Della Barba, Joe" 
Sent: Wednesday, November 4, 2015 2:11 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cabin Heat

Seeing as the engine is an Atomic 4, taking too much heat out of a *diesel* 
will likely not be an issue ☺
I fully agree a hot water diesel boiler is way better than engine heat, but the 
cost difference is huge and I don’t have diesel fuel aboard anyway. Thanks for 
the info.

Joe DB

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Re: Stus-List Cabin Heat

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Joe,

The one caveat I have heard involves taking too much waste heat out of a small 
diesel engine resulting in running cooler than optimum.

Calypso has a Perkins 4-108 4 cylinder diesel engine.  To heat Calypso’s cabin 
we would have needed two heat exchangers and at least 60’ of hose.  Several 
diesel mechanics I talked with indicated the Perkins 4-108, in typical PNW 
usage and 50F temp raw water did not have an over-abundance of waste heat.

If the engine operating temp would not be an issue for your installation I have 
heard good things about the Red Hot brand of heat exchangers but I have not 
installed one.

We chose to install a Webasto Thermo-90S diesel heater to heat its own coolant 
that circulates through a domestic water heater and three heat exchangers.  The 
system is able to heat the cabin to 75F+ on winter days and provide plenty of 
hot water for galley or shower use.  The system ran for 16 years before its 
first service call (last week).  Changing out a burner assembly, fuel and 
coolant filters, and balancing the air intake and exhaust hoses was all that 
was needed.  The Webasto T-90 is now set to provide enough heat for us to paint 
and cure epoxy all winter.

Sure Marine in Seattle provided the parts and service and I was very satisfied. 
 I expect they also sell engine waste heat powered heat exchangers if you are 
looking for professional advice.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 03, 2015 8:31 AM
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'
Cc: Della Barba, Joe
Subject: Stus-List Cabin Heat

Does anyone have hot water cabin heat?
I am converting my engine to FWC and am planning to install a cabin heater. I 
am wondering if anyone has done this and where they put the heater. I am not 
looking forward to buying 70 feet of hose, but I think having the heater 
forward will work better than back aft.
Joe
Coquina
C 35 MK I
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Re: Stus-List Bermuda1-2 lessons learned

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

>… to vent the fresh-water tanks to the interior of the boat.

I did this on Calypso, running both fresh-water tank vents forward into the 
anchor locker.  In the unlikely event of over filling a tank the vented water 
would end up in the anchor locker bilge and be pumped over board.  I do need to 
double check the vent hose run as there are a few low spots where water can 
collect. It has not been a problem over the last +-15 years but it is easy to 
prevent.

I do recommend moving the fuel tank vent away from the toe rail.

I did place both holding tank vents just below the toe rail (one each side) as 
the risk of a vacuum or syphon being created is low and a little clean water in 
the holding tank might be a bonus.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave Godwin 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 28, 2015 5:15 PM
To: Paul Eugenio via CnC-List
Cc: Dave Godwin
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bermuda1-2 lessons learned

Following this great recounting of the race and subsequent discussion got me to 
thinking about venting issues. They’re on my list of to-do’s on my refit and 
dove-tail with some things I’ve been rolling around in my mind.

Given that all my external vents and hoses have been removed and are awaiting 
replacement, I’ve been thinking that I may do what Passport yachts does which 
is to vent the fresh-water tanks to the interior of the boat. This sounds like 
what David Risch may have done.

The other critical vent is for the fuel tank which exits high on the starboard 
side, approximately at the forward end of the cockpit just under the toe-rail. 
I’m considering moving that vent to inside the starboard propane locker which 
is under the helmsman’s starboard seat. Not much of a distance aft from the 
original location. This would put it out of burying seas on port tack and it 
has the added benefit that if there are overflow issues it would let the fuel 
exit out the external through-hull at the base of propane locker rather than 
into a cabin space.

As regards the solent stay for heavy weather, I discussed this at length with a 
buddy who worked for Forespar and his suggestion was to have a storm sail built 
with an integral stay that would attach to the toe-rail and hoist on the second 
jib halyard. Granted, this is a storm comfort/survival setup as opposed to a 
racing (pointing…) option. I don’t race my boat so not a concern.

Food for thought and opinions welcome given that I’m in ongoing rebuild mode.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit

On Oct 28, 2015, at 11:05 AM, David via CnC-List 
> wrote:

David,

I have done numerous Bermuda races aboard Corsair.   Some suggestions;
(2) When a wave fills the cockpit and it gets flooded (and it did repeatedly) 
the engine instruments are going to get wet.  This is not good as the switches 
will (and did) fail, I am considering relocation or creating a waterproof cover.

Same problem.  Covered it  with the plastic used on cars to protect the paint 
on the nose.  Conforms to the panel pretty well.  Not perfect but keeps the 
most of the water out of the electrics.  Can still hear alarm too.

(4)  The fuel tank vent on my boat is high up on the starboard side but by the 
time I got to Bermuda, the tank had a quart of water in it (which I siphoned 
out).  Good filters (a racor) helped but I need to relocate the vent -- the 
question is where?  It may not be wise but on the return trip I wrapped the 
vent with tape (which, if I had run the engine I would have removed)   A better 
solution is needed.

I vent water tanks internally when going offshore.   After fueling perhaps vent 
it internally as high under decks as possible with a valve to close when engine 
off to avoid extreme weather spillage.

(5)  Reefing has to be quick and easy -- I spent far too much time screwing up 
enough courage to go to the mast to reef and shake-out.  My current reefing 
system (probably original to the boat) has a winch on the boom which makes the 
first reef fine but I used all three reef points and releasing the last reef 
before pulling in the next in 35-40 kn of breeze is a nightmare.   I need to 
work on leading the lines to the cockpit.

A cam cleat just forward of winch to relieve the reef line under load may help.

(6) A removable inner forestay and a blade foresail might be nice.  My new 
furling 130 spent a lot of time furled 50% and that really has screwed up the 
shape of my formerly new and now blown out 130.

I installed a solent stay for storm jib and the #4.Best thing I ever did.  
Contact me off-line if you need details


(11) Getting a decent weather (GRIB) file occasionally would have been really 
helpful.   I suppose I need to figure out how to do a SSB or Sat phone 

Re: Stus-List Oil leak in M4-30

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

My father-in-law toasted an engine owing to the pin hole oil pan leak issue. 
That plus he did not check the oil often enough.  The engine was +-35 yrs. old 
in a 80 yr. old classic wood powerboat.

Most engine manufacturers allow for the possibility of a small amount of lube 
oil consumption being “normal”.  Calypso’s 20 yr. old 2,000 hour 4-108 uses 
about ½ quart every 40 hours and leaks another ½ quart in the same time.  The 
leakage went up when I mistakenly used Delo 400 instead of the intended Delo 
100.  The difference seems to be the % of detergent with the 400 formulated for 
engines with turbochargers.  The extra detergent cleaned out all the goo that 
keeps the Perkins leaks to a minimum.

To reduce the risk of pin hole in the oil pan I change the oil after each 
season to reduce the amount of combustion related acids in the oil.  With salts 
from the outside and acids in the oil on the inside old oil pans don’t stand a 
chance.

The Perkins 4-108 also needs to have its valve cover bolts tightened from time 
to time.  That oil leak often shows first down the back of the cylinder head.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: Description: 
cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary Russell 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, October 27, 2015 10:39 AM
To: C List
Cc: Gary Russell
Subject: Re: Stus-List Oil leak in M4-30

Consider the possibility that the oil pan has a pinhole rusted in it.  A small 
amount of salt water in the oil is all you need.

Gary
S/V High Maintenance
'90 C 37 Plus
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~

On Tue, Oct 27, 2015 at 12:32 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
> wrote:
I moved my boat to its winter home yesterday and then tried to change to oil 
after I arrived. I had no issues along the way- engine stayed cool and ran 
smoothly.  However, I got almost no oil out of the pan and the dipstick showed 
it was below the low point.  I am thankful that this did not destroy my engine 
but now have to figure out what to do.  I noticed some oil in the bilge in the 
spring so cleaned up and put 2 oil absorbing sheets in the space under the 
engine and one in the bilge.  My boat came from the PO with a hose attached to 
the oil pan drain plug so I could remove the cap from the hose and run a thin 
tube into the hose to suck the oil out. I thought that I had not tightened the 
drain plug under the oil pan when I changed the oil last year and thought that 
was the cause of the leak.   The pads under the engine now have oil in them and 
I added a quart of oil to the engine a month ago when I checked and it was low. 
 It is still possible that the drain is the source of the leak, but the leak is 
slow enough that I am having trouble verifying the actual site.  Has anyone had 
this problem with a Universal M4-30 or similar engine?  Of course I am 
concerned that I might be burning the oil, but the pads underneath with oil in 
them leads me to think it is a leak.  Still, I am not sure I can account for 
several missing quarts of oil in the pads.  Dave

Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT

[Description: cid:image002.png@01D110A5.1E39D590]


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Re: Stus-List Bermuda1-2 lessons learned

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Dave,

Thank you for the great report and congrats on your successful crossings.  Also 
congrats on not having to highlight un-plugging the head in high seas, at 
night, after cooking liver and onions.

For the fuel tank vent issues, Racor or a similar company sells a device that 
installs in-line with the vent that prevents fuel from getting out the vent.  I 
will check the one I installed on Calypso to see if it also prevents sea water 
from entering from above.  I have seen similar vent issues with the potable 
water tank vents on older C  The 1974 C 39 I sailed to Hawaii in 77 & 79 
had the port water tank vents located at the shear and under water when sailing 
heeled over.  We were using that tank to reduce weight to leeward.  Sea water 
got sucked into the tank cutting our water supply in half.  We used the 
brackish water for cooking and cleaning.

One of Calypso’s prior owners or the factory added an exhaust shut off gate 
valve.  It is one of the few fittings we have not replaced or upgraded in the 
last 16 years.  It is frozen open but I have a slight concern the gate will 
drop and unexpectedly close off the exhaust.Are ball valves currently 
considered the “best practice” for this use?

For the auto pilot tiller arm; Calypso’s rudder shaft had a long enough key way 
that the autopilot tiller arm can share with the quadrant. I also bolted the 
two together for mutual support should one loosen up at an awkward time.

Calypso’s radar reflector is assembled around the back stay with small lines 
top and bottom to stabilize.  I was able to meet the height above the deck (and 
above the radar antenna) requirement by using a ladder to install.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Paine 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, October 27, 2015 11:51 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: David Paine
Subject: Stus-List Bermuda1-2 lessons learned

Hi All,

As I mentioned last spring as part of a question about life rafts, I had 
planned to sail  my C  solo to Bermuda and back (double handed) in the 
Bermuda1-2 race.  I did,  It was fun, it was terrifying, it was expensive to 
prepare for, and it was frustrating as I did not do well (dfl) in my class in 
part because of the high winds and seas near the gulf stream probably favored 
the  HR49 and other heavyweights in my class but mostly because I was climbing 
a steep learning curve.   Of course, a C won the return and did well on 
the way there so (in my case) it's the sailor not the boat.  In preparation for 
the next one, I need to resolve a few issues with the boat and a lot with the 
skipper.  I was putting together a list that I thought I would share.

(1)  The autopilot has to be more than bullet proof.   I thought my below deck 
pilot was, but I was wrong, and as a result I found myself upside down in the 
cockpit locker and crawling deep underneath the cockpit floor in horrible 
conditions to tighten bolts that allowed the tiller arm to slip (no woodruff 
key or slot to put it in).  I lost a lot of time bobbing around with the sails 
down repairing the autopilot or sleeping.   The fix for this one is obvious but 
will require dismantling the quadrant and figuring out how to bolt the tiller 
arm to it.  Other issues with the autopilot were completely my own fault as I 
made changes to the electronics but did not have time to proof test the changes.

(2) When a wave fills the cockpit and it gets flooded (and it did repeatedly) 
the engine instruments are going to get wet.  This is not good as the switches 
will (and did) fail, I am considering relocation or creating a waterproof cover.

(3) Following seas WILL drive water up the tailpipe and into the engine.  As a 
result, I sailed into St Georges harbor and up to the customs dock then I spent 
a day in Bermuda sucking water out of the engine and drying it out enough to 
get it started.   For the return trip, I put a plug in the exhaust pipe but the 
plug was washed out in the "washing machine like conditions" and ... we got to 
sail the boat into the Newport Yacht Club dock at 3:00 am on no sleep.  Then 
spend another day pumping oily water out of the engine.  Yeah, slow learner.

(4)  The fuel tank vent on my boat is high up on the starboard side but by the 
time I got to Bermuda, the tank had a quart of water in it (which I siphoned 
out).  Good filters (a racor) helped but I need to relocate the vent -- the 
question is where?  It may not be wise but on the return trip I wrapped the 
vent with tape (which, if I had run the engine I would have removed)   A better 
solution is needed.

(5)  Reefing has to be quick and easy -- I spent far too much time screwing up 
enough courage to go to the mast to reef and shake-out.  My current reefing 
system (probably original to the boat) has a winch on the boom which makes the 
first reef fine but I used all three reef 

Re: Stus-List outboard size

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Mike,

We used a +- 2 hp on an 10” high pressure floor inflatable around the PNW for 
years.  The ability to lift it on and off one handed was the best part.  With 
two or three people onboard it was a bit slow for me.  Once, the 2hp outboard 
was not able to pull a long stern tie line ashore without some rowing 
assistance.  Up wind or up current was sometimes very slow.

Now we have a 6 hp 4 stroke. It is much heavier with the associated on/off 
issues especially when anchored.  It was able to obtain good speeds but not 
plane with 4 adults in the dinghy.  We used it for our trip around Vancouver 
Island and the extra power was needed several times in higher wind or current 
areas.  The lower fuel economy with the 6 hp made it necessary to monitor our 
gasoline supplies closer than with the 2 hp.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Michael 
Jones via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 26, 2015 9:32 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Michael Jones
Subject: Stus-List outboard size

Ls and Gs
Can you help me? I have recently bought an 8ft inflatable as tender and am 
looking at second hand outboard options. Can you advise me of adequate size 
required? Specifically I have seen a 2,2 hp advertised. Will that be enough to 
potter to the dock and back? The safety sticker on the boat says up to 5hp but 
that seeems a bit much and heavy.
Thanks and regards
Mike Jones
Seanachai, 1981 C 34
Victoria
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Re: Stus-List Raptor Deck Seattle - help

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Dennis,

Contact Josh at Quantum Sails – Seattle; 206-634-0636.  I just talked with him 
and Raptor Deck is in business and shipping both product and sample kits.  Josh 
did say they got flooded with orders at the same time there was some product 
availability issues but all is well now.

The Quantum loft is just down the street from where Calypso is moored but I 
only stop by once a year or so.  I asked Josh how the Raptor product compares 
with Kiwi Grip as Calypso’s non-skid will be re-done as we re-paint the deck.  
Raptor is a little softer (easier on the foot and tush) but will show wear and 
tear faster.  He expects most customers will see 3 to 4 years of “sport boat” 
use before needing to replace the high wear areas.  Josh also said some 
customers are mixing Raptor with other coatings based on where it is placed.  
Swim steps and cockpits are prime areas.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 26, 2015 10:02 AM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Stus-List Raptor Deck Seattle - help

Does anybody know if these guys are still in business?  I tried calling and 
emailing.  Both fail.

http://www.raptordeck.com/
i...@raptordeck.com+1 (707) 278 6749 
"70-RAPTOR-49"
6319 Seaview Ave. NW. Seattle, WA, 98107, USA

Dennis C.
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Re: Stus-List Hydrolocked!

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

> An A4 will usually survive getting flooded. Diesels not so much…

I was able to recover from a hydrolocked diesel on a 1993 delivery from Hawaii 
to Seattle by removing the injectors and using compression to blow out the sea 
water.  We changed the lube oil as some sea water made it into the lube system 
then re-started. The process took about 30 hours so the cylinders did not have 
much time to corrode.  We may have shot WD40 or something similar into the 
cylinders after blowing out the water but the exact details are a bit foggy 
now.  As we were 3 days out of Honolulu we made do with resources onboard.

There were many other deferred maintenance issues with that diesel engine (a 
Volvo) prior to the hydrolock.  Once the boat was back in Seattle the new owner 
had the engine rebuilt.  The rebuilt Volvo engine made at least one more So Pac 
trip plus at least 5 years of PNW cruising before the current owner replaced it 
with a turbo Yanmar.

On a 1979 C 39 delivery between Hawaii and Seattle an A4 engine froze up from 
salt water being shot into the carburetor from a raw water hose leak.  We 
pulled the cylinder head and tried all sorts of lube and violence to un-freeze 
the pistons to no avail.  As we were in the NE Pacific high it was a slow sail 
back which ended up taking 29 days.  The A4 was rebuilt and worked well for 
another 3 years before the owner converted to a diesel.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 21, 2015 3:19 PM
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'
Cc: Della Barba, Joe
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hydrolocked!

I started a generator once that had a bad exhaust system design and it bent a 
rod like a pretzel. It had flooded while sitting overnight. What I thought was 
going to be an hour job ended up involved taking a 6 KW generator out and 
rebuilding it ☹
An A4 will usually survive getting flooded. Diesels not so much………

Joe
Coquina
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Re: Stus-List rebedding hatch

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Put Calypso in the same group of butyl tape after the over drill and epoxy fill 
process.  For our foredeck hatch which is 33” x 33” we are upgrading to through 
bolts as the deck sees more twist and flex around that larger deck opening.

We have reconditioned all three hatches, two are original 1970 A/H, one (the 
foredeck) is a A/H added in the early 80’s replacing the wood frame original.  
We used Hammerhead for the lens and seal recondition and had a local aerospace 
coating company re-anodize the frames.  We replaced an opening port in the 
cockpit. The white plastic framed port frame failed and allowed water into the 
balsa.  We used a same sized Lewmar which looks much like the other hatches.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Paul 
Fountain via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2015 5:29 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Paul Fountain
Subject: Re: Stus-List rebedding hatch

I did ours, and butyl tape worked great. Had to over drill and fill the old 
holes yes, also found cracks where the liner and deck met, which were a source 
of leaks, so fixed them with G2 Flex (if I remember correctly) which has a bit 
of give in it. The new Lewmar’s actually matched the openings better than the 
Bomar’s I removed!

Paul Fountain
Perception II
C 33-II

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2015 8:14 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Stus-List rebedding hatch

All,

I'll be replacing the front hatch with a Lewmar hatch.  Which sealant should I 
use?  Sikaflex, Lifecaulk, something else?

I need to overdrill, epoxy and redrill the new screw holes, correct?

Joel
35/3
Annapolis


--
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Commercial Foul Weather Gear

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

> I have Musto now and am impressed with them.
I also have a set of Musto offshore foul weather gear and have been very 
satisfied.  IIRC they are now nearing 20 years old with usage that includes 2 
Hawaii crossings and 4 PNW to So Cal deliveries.  They still keep me dry and 
warm.  I have noticed some signs of age and wear but for my currently planned 
sailing I expect to get a few more years of use.  They are not made from the 
newer Gore-Tex type material but from old school nylon based materials with 
good dry suit type seals around the wrists and some fiber pile around the 
collar and in the hand sized pockets.  It seemed like a big investment at the 
time but given the long use and high level of comfort I plan on doing the same 
when replacing this set.

If you are planning some entertaining offshore sailing there is a thread over 
on Sailing Anarchy regarding foul weather gear layering for a voyage around 
Cape Horn.  The discussion focuses on how to use multiple Gore-Tex type layers 
for the best combo of letting moisture out while keeping spray/rain at bay.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 14, 2015 8:00 AM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Re: Stus-List Commercial Foul Weather Gear

My experience says foulies have a finite life.  I had high end Henri Lloyd 
offshore foulies that self destructed after 10 years or so.  I also had low end 
West Marines that blew up after a few years.

I have Musto now and am impressed with them.
I'm beginning to believe it doesn't matter what foulies you get, they're only 
going to last a few years, especially if you leave them on the boat.  I say go 
for them!

Dennis C.

On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 9:44 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
> wrote:
I have a Gill jacket that I am less than pleased with, the arms soak right 
through. I sprayed it with some waterproofing, but still not too happy with it.

Fisheries Supply is running a sale this week, does anyone have any experience 
with this brand?
Or maybe it would be too hard to be flexible in?
Altho, seems like the guys on Deadliest Catch have to move around a lot -


Grundens

Product Name:  Gage Burning Daylight Hooded Jacket, Red/Black - 
Medium

Sku# 
389941

Item ID  GRU BD300-RED-M

Bill Coleman
C 39 Erie


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___

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Re: Stus-List Balsa core thickness

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

On Calypso, built in 1970 at Bruckmann's, the deck balsa is nominally 1/2".  
When replacing failed balsa I have been purchasing 1/2" then sanding it down a 
little to leave room for epoxy and filler and the new epoxy/glass laminations.



If you remove a fastener in the general area of the deck you would be able to 
verify that C did not use different thicknesses in newer designs/builds.



Martin

Calypso

1971 C 43

Seattle


From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Rick Brass via 
CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Monday, September 28, 2015 7:28 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Brass
Subject: Re: Stus-List Balsa core thickness

Petar;

If I recall correctly, it is about 3/8” – perhaps ½”

Rick Brass
Imzadi  C 38 mk 2
la Belle Aurore C 25 mk1
Washington, NC



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of phorvati . 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, September 26, 2015 8:01 PM
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list 
Cc: phorvati . 
Subject: Stus-List Balsa core thickness

Does anyone know what the thickness of balsa core is along the geona track 
section of deck on 1976 C 38 Mk2
Petar
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Re: Stus-List Balsa core thickness

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

I have use Merton's and Fiberglass Supply for online or phone purchases of 
balsa and related repair supplies.  Fiberglass Supply is located in Burlington 
WA and has an extensive web site with great descriptions of the materials.  If 
you purchase larger volumes of balsa or other bulky materials the online 
shipping calculator will give a high shipping cost quote.  Call by phone and 
ask for Jose' to manually calculate UPS charges.  When we purchased a large 
quantity of vacuum bagging materials Calypso's co-owner drove 2 hours each way 
to save $180 in shipping.



I do not recommend expandable foam for a structural repair.  There have been 
some very helpful discussions on the Sailing Anarchy Fixit Forum regarding 
cored deck repairs.  One of the take away points for me was to use similar 
materials when performing repairs.



When you start your project, evaluate how wet and the overall condition of the 
balsa before fully charting your course.



If the balsa is damp (<30% moisture per the Baltek web site) and still looks 
tan and smells like balsa with a polyester undertone it may be OK to make small 
repairs around the deck penetrations.  If you are able to go this route, be 
aware it is difficult and slow to dry out large areas of balsa using only the 
fastener holes.



Let me know if you are interested in more balsa repair techniques / info 
learned from making extensive repairs to Calypso's deck.



Martin

Calypso

1971 C 43

Seattle


From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Petar Horvatic via 
CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Monday, September 28, 2015 12:27 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Petar Horvatic
Subject: Re: Stus-List Balsa core thickness

I’ll measure before I order the core.  I have some wet spots in the area of 
port genoa track(aft section).  Interestingly the other side is dry.  I thought 
I would order the core ahead of time.  But after haul out, I’ll wait to dig 
stuff out before ordering.  I’m not very motivated to do this, but it needs to 
be done.
Did anyone use expandable polyurethane foam for coring? Merton’s Fiberglass 
sells it.


Petar Horvatic
Sundowner
76 C 38MkII
Newport, RI





From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew 
Burton via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 28, 2015 2:52 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Burton
Subject: Re: Stus-List Balsa core thickness

On my 1981 C 40, the core thickness is 3/4". When I installed the windlass I 
found the centerline, where a staysail track was, has plywood reinforcement 
about 3" wide.
Andy
C 40
Peregrine

On Mon, Sep 28, 2015 at 1:35 PM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

On Calypso, built in 1970 at Bruckmann's, the deck balsa is nominally 1/2".  
When replacing failed balsa I have been purchasing 1/2" then sanding it down a 
little to leave room for epoxy and filler and the new epoxy/glass laminations.



If you remove a fastener in the general area of the deck you would be able to 
verify that C did not use different thicknesses in newer designs/builds.



Martin

Calypso

1971 C 43

Seattle


From: CnC-List 
[cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] on behalf 
of Rick Brass via CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>]
Sent: Monday, September 28, 2015 7:28 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Rick Brass
Subject: Re: Stus-List Balsa core thickness
Petar;

If I recall correctly, it is about 3/8” – perhaps ½”

Rick Brass
Imzadi  C 38 mk 2
la Belle Aurore C 25 mk1
Washington, NC



From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On 
Behalf Of phorvati . via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, September 26, 2015 8:01 PM
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: phorvati . <phorv...@gmail.com<mailto:phorv...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Balsa core thickness

Does anyone know what the thickness of balsa core is along the geona track 
section of deck on 1976 C 38 Mk2
Petar

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--
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260
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Re: Stus-List Balsa core damage

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Patrick,



I concur with your degree of failure chart with the added "bad" comment of 
balsa that has rotted to black goo that smells of swamp and acidic polyester.



I do have pictures but they are not posted online nor organized well.  That 
organizational project will be waiting until Calypso is sailing again.  PM me a 
email address and I will send a few next week (I'm currently out on the WA 
coast with the Mrs. and our dog for some R).



If the failed core around the deck fills was shallow enough you could dig it 
out to firm balsa and refill with epoxy of other repair materials I would call 
that good to go unless it was in a highly stressed area.  In several areas I 
dug out failed balsa back to firm core that was stained darker than new balsa.  
Once dried it tested well for structural integrity.  The use of light hammer 
taps is my favorite way to confirm the extent of damage.



I did find some filler used by Bruckmann's that was orange to brown in color.  
I refer to this low tech polyester based filler as "bog".  Much of the bog on 
Calypso that has seen stress or water intrusion has fractured.  If your deck 
fills are close to where the deck balsa ends and  the glass tapers back to 
solid (for the hull to deck joint) the C factory may have added a filler.



If the boat is not headed into extreme conditions, hard racing, or way offshore 
a little wet of mildly damaged balsa in low stress areas should not interfere 
with a sailing season.  Light repairs and preventing further damage, especially 
re-bedding leaking hardware, in my opinion, is a better investment of limited 
repair time and resources.



Martin

Calypso

1971 C 43

Seattle


From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Patrick Davin via 
CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Monday, September 28, 2015 3:39 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Patrick Davin
Subject: Re: Stus-List Balsa core damage

Since we're on the topic of balsa core decay, I had a question about this - 
having just finished resealing all the deck fill ports (diesel, waste, 3 
waters) on my boat.

All had some softness in the balsa, two had obvious water ingress (in the past) 
evident by black staining, minor rust on fasteners (bolts/screws), etc.

Question is how do you judge the *degree* of coring decay?

Mild = ? (still wood colored, but squishy/soft?)
Moderate = ? (dark staining and squishy/soft?)
Bad = same as above but covering more than a 1 to 2 inch section?
Severe = ?

Purchase survey 7 months ago found no wet core issues via sounding, but did 
cite leaking fill ports so the need to rebed was known.

Oddly one fill port (diesel) had what appeared to be dark brownish foam coring 
instead of wood, on only one side of the port (outboard, towards the toe rail). 
Maybe a prior owner injected it?

Given I think what I found would fall under "mild to moderate", and percussive 
sounding found no issues further from the fills, I think the core decay is 
limited to just the immediate vicinity of the ports (water entry was probably 
through the fastener holes), and since the wood didn't feel presently wet or 
saturated, it was either a past leak or it's a very slow leak. I rebedded with 
butyl tape.

Martin do you happen to have any pictures of your core? I assume you had some 
that would be good examples of more severe core decay?

-Patrick
S/V Violet Hour
1984 LF 38, Seattle, WA


-- Forwarded message --
From: Martin DeYoung >
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
>
Cc:
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2015 20:30:21 +
Subject: Re: Stus-List Balsa core thickness

 ...

When you start your project, evaluate how wet and the overall condition of the 
balsa before fully charting your course.

If the balsa is damp (<30% moisture per the Baltek web site) and still looks 
tan and smells like balsa with a polyester undertone it may be OK to make small 
repairs around the deck penetrations.  If you are able to go this route, be 
aware it is difficult and slow to dry out large areas of balsa using only the 
fastener holes.

Let me know if you are interested in more balsa repair techniques / info 
learned from making extensive repairs to Calypso's deck.

Martin

Calypso

1971 C 43

Seattle


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Re: Stus-List boat names

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

I heard of a boat named “Ruthless” as the owner’s wife, Ruth, would not set 
foot on the boat.

A friend of mine owned a Yamaha 36 named “Made in Japan”.

Another friend owned a J-24 named “Jail Bait”.  My wife and I towed that J-24 
across the country to participate in the 1989 J-24 Worlds in Kingston.  A lot 
of truck drivers took a close look at my wife as they passed, especially in So 
Dakota.

I took part in a 1985 Transpac charter of a Barnett 52 named “Climax”.  
“Climax” was owned by two lady part doctors.

I sailed several Sauza Cups (Lahaina YC, Maui) on a Choate 40 named “Phoenix” 
as the owner’s previous boat burned to the waterline after his spouse 
over-primed the alcohol stove and the fire got out of control.

I named the Ericson 30+ I owned in the 80’s “Helen Highwater”.  My 
father-in-law saw that on a painting of a WW2 bomber with a provocatively 
dressed Helen added for emphasis.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: Description: 
cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of bobmor99 . 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 21, 2015 5:56 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: bobmor99 .
Subject: Re: Stus-List boat names

Years ago, I had to come up with a name for my then-new-to-me 33-1 prior to 
transiting a drawbridge for the first time.
I didn't want to ID myself as "the nameless white sailboat returning to sea".
Bridge tender: "How do you spell that?".

It's just six pieces of tape, which have long since fallen off. It's somewhere 
on my list...
Was briefly called "Hugs and Kisses", after additional OXs were surreptitiously 
added by a beercan race competitor.
Also, 0x is a prefix denoting a hexadecimal value (if you're into computer 
stuff).
Bridge tender: "Is that 'oh X' or 'zero X'?".

--Oxman
C 33-1
Jax, FL
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Re: Stus-List - Inflable life jacket with harness recommendation

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

> On the other hand, if I had been unconscious, i believe that the pfd would 
> have kept my head above water and kept me alive.

This may be the key point.

One of the times I have found myself un-expectedly in the water I was knocked 
senseless or unconscious when I hit my head on the outside of the toe rail on 
an aluminum Frers 46. It was April in Puget Sound with a water temp around 50F.

During a panic, lazy sheet spinnaker drop with an crew of Japanese sailors 
(their English was limited, my Japanese non-existent) one of the Japanese 
sailors snubbed down the halyard as I was gathering in the sail near the 
cockpit.  As the sail popped full again I was launched off the deck, my feet 
tangled in the lifelines spinning me upside down, my head bounced off the toe 
rail and I fell into the water.  No life jacket, full foulweather gear and 
boots.

Fortunately I came to my senses still holding onto the spinnaker sheet and 
close to the boat.  My first awareness that something was amiss was the image 
of a bunch of Japanese people pulling me up, back aboard.  The next was one of 
them was attempting to stop the blood flow from my head while I returned to 
gathering in the sail as we still needed it down.  I ended up in the ER getting 
8 stitches just above my eyebrow later that night.

If I had not held onto the spinnaker line I am convinced I would have struggled 
to stay afloat.  My winter weight foulweather jacket was lined and would soak 
up water.  My boots would have prevented much success in treading water.  The 
owner/driver was left onboard the boat that was being blown towards shore by 
the sudden squall and the out of control spinnaker.  He would not have been 
able to steer towards me until the spinnaker was doused.

This experience is one of the main reasons I wear an auto-inflating pfd 99% of 
the time the boat is underway.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Michael 
Crombie via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2015 11:09 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: mcrom...@bell.blackberry.net
Subject: Re: Stus-List - Inflable life jacket with harness recommendation


I had my jacket inflate this summer. I was helming a J24 in a race on a very 
light air day and was slouched against the lifeline in a state of sheer 
boredom...when (i'm sure you see this coming) the shackle gave way and suddenly 
i was in the water. 

The jacket inflated like it was supposed to but i did find it very awkward to 
move around and to try and lift myself back on the boat. I was quite surprised 
at my lack of mobility.   On the other hand, if I had been unconscious, i 
believe that the pfd would have kept my head above water and kept me alive.

Mike
Atacama 33 mkii 
Toronto
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
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Re: Stus-List Rendezvous Photos

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

My question was regarding the cnc web site’s photo album.

The link to the NE rendezvous pictures worked great, thanks for setting that up.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 16, 2015 12:51 PM
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list
Cc: Chuck S
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rendezvous Photos

The link worked well for me.  Counted 26 photos.  Nice group.  Wish I made it.  
Hopefully next year?


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md


From: "Stu via CnC-List" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "Stu" 
Sent: Wednesday, September 16, 2015 3:12:30 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rendezvous Photos

If you get no where clicking on this link --   
http://cncyachts.com/cncnerendezvous/  -- cut and paste it into the address bar 
on your browser.

Stu

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Re: Stus-List Rendezvous Photos

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Stu,

Thank you for the link to the NE Rendezvous.

I have not been able to view the cnc photo album by clicking on the “view 
photos online” button for some time.  When I click on that button a message 
comes up “web page cannot be found”.  I admit to having only rudimentary IT 
skills and it is likely a security setting in my browser ( IE 11) or some other 
issue with my approach.

Any hints?

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stu via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 16, 2015 7:41 AM
To: C Email List
Cc: Stu
Subject: Stus-List Rendezvous Photos

Photos of last weekend’s C Rendezvous:

http://cncyachts.com/cncnerendezvous/
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Re: Stus-List - Inflable life jacket with harness recommendation

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Danny,

I put about 20,000 miles on a Mustang style inflatable with harness that had 
the powder tablet type of auto inflate.  It was comfortable and easy to put on 
and only auto inflated by rain/spray once.  In heavy rain I would wear it under 
my foulweather gear jacket knowing if it inflated I may have difficulty in 
taking my jacket off without a knife.

My current inflatable was made by Spinlock.  I have only put around 3,000 miles 
on this one.  The advantages are mainly in how it stays out of the way when 
sail handling or spinning winch handles. It is slightly less comfortable than 
the Mustang with a little extra chafe around the neck.  It does takes a moment 
longer to put on owing to the harness clasp design.  IIRC it is hydrostatic but 
I am not sure.  There was a recall a few years ago that updated something with 
the inflator.

If you will be racing or headed into entertaining conditions the leg straps are 
a good idea.  Buy one that will be comfortable wear more often even if it costs 
more.  Any life jacket is a waste of money unless worn.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, September 15, 2015 1:46 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Danny Haughey
Subject: Stus-List - Inflable life jacket with harness recommendation

Hi guys,

I'm to buy an inflatable life jacket with a harness and tether and I'm looking 
for recommendations.

I'm told I should get hydrostatic.  These things run up to $400.

Then there is a mustang version on sale at defender for $259.

I'm interested in what you guys use or recommend.

We don't go offshore much but, intend to further our cruising ground.

Danny
Still moving toward a closing!
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Re: Stus-List Harken roller furler failure

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

>Dropped the jib - furler spun freely with no sail so I figured I was catching 
>something up top.  Re-taped halyard and ran the jib back up to test - stuck 
>again part way out then all of a sudden it was raining small bearings...

Any chance a wrapped halyard put enough pressure on the top spring clip?

Calypso's Harken furler would act like it was jammed when the halyard used to 
occasionally wrap around the top of the extrusion.  I adjusted the sail hoist 
slightly to shorten the amount of exposed halyard and eliminated the wrap 
issues.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr. Mark 
Bodnar via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 07, 2015 9:17 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dr. Mark Bodnar
Subject: Stus-List Harken roller furler failure



Had a catastrophic failure of my Harken roller furler today.

Last 3 times out the furler has been sticking a bit - thought it got better 
with tightening my backstay, but then same problem again.
Dropped the jib - furler spun freely with no sail so I figured I was catching 
something up top.  Re-taped halyard and ran the jib back up to test - stuck 
again part way out then all of a sudden it was raining small bearings - And 
no I didn't reef on it or winch it - I was just tugging it looking to see where 
is was catching and it let go.
Sail dropped with half the top furling mechanism - left the halyard up top with 
the other half of the mechanism.

I've not gone up the mast yet to rescue the remaining parts and halyard
- but I'm pretty sure that there was a top spring clip that let go - when it 
popped out the whole top swivel set just sprayed everywhere.  I rescued a few 
of the bearings - light brown, plastic, 3/8" (9.58mm) -- I think all the other 
parts ring the furler and therefore can't disappear.

So the big question - can I buy new bearings and a spring clip and rebuild the 
swivel in place (assuming that it was the spring clip that failed).  I'm hoping 
I don't need to kick for a whole new furler.  
Replacing the whole top swivel would be a pain as I'd have to dismantle the 
furler and the forestay to get the old one off and replaced.


Sorry I didn't get any pic's - was dark on return to the dock and I forgot.

Still had a great sail today - left the dock at 11:30am --- back to the dock at 
11pm.  First time coming back in the dark! Stars out, phosphorecent sparkles in 
the water. And a clean docking!

Mark

-- 


There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
   - George Santayana


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Re: Stus-List Harken roller furler failure

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Calypso's spin halyard will tangle if it is not secured against the mast before 
un-furling the headsail.  I'm not sure if it contacts the swivel itself or the 
sail's head.



I use a ATN spin sock which allows the spin to be snuffed close to the leeward 
mark.  When the spin is hoisted and flying the sock itself covers the upper 
swivel and would foul it if the headsail is roller out while the spin is flying.



I have not yet figured out a way to roll out the headsail until the spin 
halyard is all the way aft but I have gotten faster at clearing the halyard off 
the sock/spin and back to the mast.



Martin

Calypso

1971 C

Seattle



From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of D Harben via 
CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 08, 2015 7:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: D Harben
Subject: Re: Stus-List Harken roller furler failure


Spin halyard
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Re: Stus-List Hot water tank

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

>… so the more flow the cooler it gets..

On Calypso we went overkill for domestic hot water as we wanted to cruise 3 
seasons in the PNW.  We use our Webasto diesel furnace as a boiler supplying 
hot water to a Everhot water heater.  The domestic water flows through 4 to 5 
gallons of very hot water in copper tubing.  When the system is running at full 
speed we can supply as much hot water as there is water in the tanks.  The 
system is heavy and requires extra space but it has been reliable and worth the 
effort.  Even in summer there have been times it was nice to take the chill off 
the cabin at the same time as making hot water for dishes.  We do have a 
“summer” valve that directs the boiler output only to the Everhot keeping the 
cabin heat exchangers cool.

We also have an engine/110 heater 4 gallon hot water heater to make use of the 
engine’s waste heat. Our domestic water manifold allows us to direct the flow 
of cold water based on which system is being used.  If we decide to take the 
boat back to a pure race boat much of the cabin and domestic water heating 
system would need to be removed to save weight.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jim Watts 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 02, 2015 1:04 PM
To: 1 CnC List
Cc: Jim Watts
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot water tank

The big downside to the instant water heaters, besides the electrical draw, is 
the total temperature rise. That unit provides a 32 degree temp rise at .35 
gpm, dropping to 24 degree rise at .5 gpm, so the more flow the cooler it gets. 
So you can get the water from 60 to 92 if you can live with a quart a minute 
flow. Try that at home and see if you like it...

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

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Re: Stus-List Self leveling Radar mount

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Pete,

I had a Questus back stay pole and dampened mount on a C 36 for 7 years.  
Worked great and would have used a Questus pole again if they had a model that 
fit over Calypso's Sailtec backstay adjustor.

On Calypso we have a fixed aluminum pole with an early model of the Scanstrut 
radar platform that is not self-leveling but we do have the ability to tilt the 
platform manually.  It also has performed well for 14 years.  It is rare that 
we need to tilt the radar platform.  For us the tilt function was added for 
long offshore tacks not so much for inland waters.

I do recommend you have plenty of dampening in place for a self-leveling 
platform.  A friend had his poorly dampened platform mounted radar fail at sea 
when the constant motion caused many conductors in the radar cable to fail.  
The repeated bending stress lead to the copper strands fracturing.  It was 
fixed underway in time to make a difficult landfall.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Pete 
Shelquist via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, August 29, 2015 8:03 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Pete Shelquist
Subject: Stus-List Self leveling Radar mount

I'm reviewing a couple different types of self-leveling radar mounts for a 
pole.  Seaview and Scanstrut are two that I'm finding.  Anyone have experience 
with either, or yet another brand?

Thanks,

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Re: Stus-List wet core LF 38

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

> Those boats were very well built and core wetness can be easily misread and 
> misreported.<

I have looked closely at balsa core that was damp, wet, and rotten (failed).  I 
would not be concerned with a racer/cruiser C with damp core here and there.  
For me, damp means the balsa still looks tan in color and smells like balsa or 
polyester resin.  (It is easy to assess the color and smell of the balsa by 
pulling some hardware mounting bolts in the area of concern.)  Unless heading 
out on a adventurous offshore voyage I would not recommend making repairs 
beyond re-bedding the deck hardware.  Tapping around with a hammer, mildly damp 
core will sound much like dry core unless delamination has occurred. IIRC 
Baltek’s study of wet core failures found 80% of the structure’s strength is 
retained up to 30% water gain.

If the balsa core is wet enough for the tea colored stain to be visible around 
fittings and mounting bolts, especially near high load areas I would 
investigate enough to be confident on how wet the balsa is and the limits or 
the wet area.  If the wet core area is in the immediate area of a fitting, for 
example under a halyard block, I would make a limited repair in that area.  
When tapping with a hammer, wet to very wet core will start to sound slightly 
dull when compared to a known dry area.

If fully failed core is found, extensive repairs may be called for.  On Calypso 
the fully failed core we found stank like a swamp polluted with polyester resin 
which looked black and was often completely broken down by some sort of acidic 
chemical reaction. When tapped with a hammer the fully rotted/failed areas will 
sound hollow and dull.  Often there will be signs or failure like the dark tea 
colored stains, corroded aluminum backing plates, and distorted inner skin.

For those boat owners with good DIY skills repairing limited core issues is 
messy but not difficult.  Over on Sailing Anarchy – Fixit Forum there is a 
great topic underway titled “Ericson 32 mast step repair” that covers, with 
pictures, replacing a failed plywood area under a deck stepped mast.  The 
process discussed would work great for balsa repairs and is similar in concept 
to what I have done repairing failed plywood and balsa around Calypso’s mast 
collar.  I chose to work from below as the inner skin is significantly thinner 
than the outer skin.  As Calypso’s race oriented interior is “stick” built we 
have good access to most of the damaged areas.

Based on a quick look at the listing, if I was in the market for a LF 38 I 
would not be frightened off by a moderate amount of wet core but I would do my 
own inspection and tapping about with a hammer.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: Description: 
cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Knowles Rich 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 31, 2015 11:53 AM
To: cnc-list Cnc-List
Cc: Knowles Rich
Subject: Re: Stus-List wet core LF 38

I’d want a second opinion on the degree of water intrusion. I suggest most 
1980’s Landfalls and other cored boats have some areas of less than perfect 
lamination and core wetness but soldier on just fine, thank you.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless ex Landfall 38 owner.

On Aug 31, 2015, at 10:20, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
> wrote:

http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1984/C%26C-Landfall-38-2756734/Portsmouth/VA/United-States#.VeSK4YeFN9M

I have no clue if this is a good deal or $19,000 too much. I am guessing the 
owner got a big surprise at sale time.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C 35 MK I

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Re: Stus-List Spreader lights

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

”… about portable lanterns that I used to use as a kid when camping. They ran 
off propane and gave off a nice soft light.”

Way back in the early 80’s when I owned an Ericson 30+ and still enjoyed an 
adult beverage or two, a gas powered Coleman camp light and heater played a 
part in being one of those obnoxious transient moorage people that I avoid 
today.

Late one very cold New Year’s day evening, both boats tied up in Port Ludlow WA 
with our wife/GF asleep below, a sailing buddy and I decided we should attempt 
to stay up all night drinking and telling sea stories.  With the wife/GF’s 
below our only acceptable option was to party in the cockpit of the bigger 
boat.  The fact it was currently in the mid 20sF headed for the teens was a 
minor concern so we added a Coleman type camp stove/heater and a gas light to 
our boom box and hot buttered rum supplies.  Frank Zappa was our choice for the 
boom box with the volume set low.  We had a tea kettle set on top of the 
Coleman heater to keep our constant supply of hot buttered rums, hot.

Somewhere around 0200 hours we noticed a guy opening the sliding glass doors on 
a Bayliner that was a few boat lengths away.  He headed out onto the dock and 
began untying his boat to move it.  Being mostly drunk and feeling magnanimous 
we jumped up to assist.  As we were helping him move as far away as he could 
without getting underway he mumbled something about having difficulty with the 
shore power.  We cheerfully re-tied up his frozen mooring lines and wished him 
a good night.  In retrospect and the cold light of the morning I expect his 
wife had grown tired of our sea stories with a Frank Zappa musical score. 
(Frank’s double album rock opera “Joe’s Garage” was the current choice.)  The 
power boater’s mumbled comment regarding the shore power undoubtedly was chosen 
to avoid confronting two drunk sailors dumb enough to spend hours drinking 
outside in freezing weather.

About the time the Myers rum bottle was more than ½ gone we started to discuss 
how great it would be to go sailing through the cold air “smoke” wafting across 
the inlet.  Fortunately we were not able to figure out how to get underway 
without waking either wife/GF.  This undoubtedly saved us from some sort of 
serious trouble relating to hypothermia or attempting to sail while cold and 
drunk.  We were able to write some season’s greetings in the frost on the dock 
in honor of Frank Zappa’s hit song “Watch out were the huskies go, don’t you 
eat yellow snow”.

Sadly we did not achieve our goal to staying awake and on deck until the sun 
came up.  We hit the cold and drunk wall around 0530 with an estimated sunrise 
of 0700.  We retired to our respective boats/bunks and a much needed sleeping 
bag.  Around 1000 hours my in-laws show up to drive us to Port Townsend for 
breakfast and shopping.  I’m told the father-in-law pushed open the 
companionway slider and asked “what’s that smell?” to which my wife responded 
“that’s just Martin, he was up late drinking”.  So, very hung over, maybe still 
buzzed I found myself in a restaurant ordering coffee and a bloody Mary and 
contemplating what tasty breakfast food might be a good choice.  After a bleary 
breakfast we started the Port Townsend antique shopping mall circuit.  I made 
it about two stores before stating “I will be sitting at the Town Tavern, come 
find me when you are finished” and beat a hasty retreat.  It all worked out 
well as the father-in-law showed up a while later and we “bonded” over a few 
beers.

BTW, proving that SSMS* (Sailor’s Short Memory Syndrome) exists, that same 
sailing/drinking buddy and I had many, many other great adventures involving 
drinking around the waterfront up until we both became parents in the early 90s 
and shelved the Myers rum.  (*SSMS has also been diagnosed when a sailor goes 
back to sea after a particular nasty trip.)

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 CC 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: Description: Description: Description: 
cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Indigo via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 27, 2015 9:26 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Indigo
Subject: Re: Stus-List Spreader lights

This has got me thinking about portable lanterns that I used to use as a kid 
when camping. They ran off propane and gave off a nice soft light. Looks like 
Coleman make something similar. The advantage would be that I can use my grill 
propane cylinders.
___

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Re: Stus-List 1983 38 Landfall on Ebay

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

… next reality show – Flip that boat

That show was on some cable channel earlier this year.  I watched a couple of 
episodes but it was mostly about fixing up / modifying trailerable boats into a 
unique custom flat water toy.  The star guy was a country singer and the 
location was in SE USA.  His crew of boat modifiers would not be allowed within 
2 miles of Calypso.  My guess is there will not be a second season.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 CC 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of D Harben via 
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 21, 2015 3:27 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: D Harben
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1983 38 Landfall on Ebay

Steve... You may be onto something...


This sounds like a STUs-List fund raising project


Don
Life
V34


Could be the next reality show – Flip that boat

Steve Sharkey
CC 37
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Re: Stus-List anchor roller

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Barbara,

Send me your email address and I will send a few pics of Calypso's custom bow 
roller.

Martin DeYoung
calyps...@outlook.commailto:calyps...@outlook.com

Calypso
1971 CC 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Barbara 
Hickson Fellers via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 17, 2015 4:49 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Barbara Hickson Fellers
Subject: Re: Stus-List anchor roller

Would some of y'all mind posting some pix of your bow/anchor rollers? With my 
toe rail, I've never been able to figure out exactly where the roller would go 
without ruining the look of my bow. The chain on my Fortress goes through 
either forward chock and gets cleated off. I pull my Fortress up by hand. Not a 
major deal but don't spend the night on the hook unless it's nice. Thanks!!
Barbara L. Hickson
Flight Risk
CC33-1 Hull No. 145

Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhonehttps://yho.com/footer0



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Re: Stus-List jelly substance on filters

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

I once had a similar experience on Calypso a few years back when I used a tank 
of 20% biodiesel.  I switched back and have not seen it since.  My guess is the 
biodiesel was not properly formulated and some of the non-dinosaur fats 
separated out.



My father-in-law's classic power boat went through a difficult fuel 
contamination problem a while back where the filters would clog quickly.  The 
contaminant was so small it could not be seen by eye.  Several of his mechanic 
friends thought it was a critter die off caused by biocides but others were 
thinking something new he picked up with his last fuel purchase.  After several 
weeks of changing filters daily the problem went away.



Martin

Calypso

1971 CC 43

Seattle


From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Bev Parslow via 
CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Saturday, August 15, 2015 5:51 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bev Parslow
Subject: Stus-List jelly substance on filters

Problems getting the Yanmar 2gmf to go. Found the secondary filter completely 
clogged with a jellylike substance. Have put in biocides, extra power stuff. 
Only thing not added is Vatican Holy Water. Why the jelly?
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Re: Stus-List Easy reefing without a mainsail slide track?

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

 I’m not sure even the best mainsail tracks truly allow you to drop sail on a 
 broad reach in 25 kts anyway.
 I've never heard of anyone reefing on a downwind run.

Fully recognizing the high cost of adding a Harken Batt car system, if one is 
expecting to reef in all conditions including downwind it is a great 
investment.  There are similar products at a lower price point and less 
invasive installation available.

On Calypso with the Harken Batt car system and full battens I use most of the 
same reefing techniques described in earlier responses.  My sail handling 
experience might be more in depth than some but I am able to put in the first 
reef in under 2 minutes, singlehanded.  Calypso still has a wire reel main 
halyard winch which may actually simplify the process.  At the mast I have the 
main halyard, dog bone to the tack horn, and the reef line all close by.  I do 
ease the vang and main sheet quite a bit to avoid pulling against a bigger 
winch.  I do not use the jack stays as the full battens keep the sail 
organized.  It may make some noise but the sail flogging helps reduce friction.

When reefing downwind, which I do both racing and cruising, the Batt cars 
substantially reduce friction from the mainsail luff but there is still 
friction and or interference from the sail/battens contacting the mast and 
spreaders.  If the apparent wind speed is over 30 I have winched the boom in 
some to pull the lower sections off the rig.  I do watch for stress on the sail 
as I pull it down.

When helping a friend deliver his 56 foot fast cruiser to San Francisco from 
Seattle we spent 2 days in 30 to 45 downwind with seas to match.  All 4 on 
board had offshore and racing experience and had sailed many miles together.  
We were standing 2 crew watches of 4 hours at night, 6 hours during the day.  
We had the #3 poled out and would roll it up or out based on the wind speed.  
For most of the time we had 1 reef in the main, adding the 2nd reef when 
needed.  The boat had the Antal mast slide system which is different than the 
Harken but just as effective.  The boat also had a powered mainsail halyard 
winch.  We reefed or un-reefed downwind at will without waking the off watch. 
BTW, we averaged over 14 knots for 30 hours and I had the high speed at 24 
knots. (45 knot gust + 30 foot seas = tighten sphincter + concerned owner.)

Regarding heaving to: I have been able to get Calypso to heave to for a calmer 
deck when single-handing and needing to put in the second reef in gusts to 35.  
I had one reef in and the #3 partially rolled up.  It took a little while to 
find just the right combo of sail, sheet, and rudder to get the boat settled.  
It was worth the effort as I had tucked in behind Bainbridge Island not far 
from Port Madison to get out of the worst of the seas.  As I was single-handing 
I was being very cautious when going forward and wanted the boat as stable as 
possible.

Regardless of which changes / improvements to reefing you select I do recommend 
practicing in moderate conditions.  If you plan to sail at night practice when 
it is dark and moderate until your hands know where each line is without 
needing a flashlight.  From my days as a foredeck guy on big IOR boats I 
strongly recommend always putting each line in the same place, the same way.  
Make your crew do the same thing.  Once a really good case of ARSS* sets in, in 
the dark you will be able to reef with confidence as each line is in its place 
and easily found.

(ARSS = Anal Retentive Sailors Syndrome.  I have a team working on developing a 
purple pill to help this common but under treated condition.)

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 CC 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Patrick 
Davin via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2015 1:53 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Patrick Davin
Subject: Stus-List Easy reefing without a mainsail slide track?

I have some questions on reefing. I know the basics, but want to get more 
advanced so that it's easy even in challenging conditions. Especially learning 
any handling characteristics that are specific to CC's.

Difficulty reefing was the one of the few sail handling issues we had on our 
cruise of Vancouver Island last month.

Typical Puget Sound summer winds are under 20 kts, so our practice reefing has 
always been relatively easy.
But in 25 kts (gusting to 30?) with 6-10 foot sharp waves from current and wind 
driven water stacking up in the Strait of Juan de Fuca approaching Race Rocks 
it was a whole different experience and somewhat scary.
(and yes I know, reef early, reef often, but I don't need that lecture ;) 
Besides, it doesn't change the fact you have to know how to reef in 25 to 40 
knots, because if you're ever in those winds you'll need to put the 2nd or 3rd 
reef in).

Anyone here have a procedure for easy reefing (or easier than what I'm doing at 
least), 

Re: Stus-List Trimming the main

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

 All 4 batters are full and adjustable.

This is what I have on Calypso's mainsail plus it is an all conditions weight 
of a Pentax like cloth.  The battens terminate into Harken Batt cars.  The sail 
includes 3 reef points and a flatting reef.  This main is not particularly 
responsive in TWS below 5 knots.

With the adjustable full length battens it has been my experience that in 
lighter air the battens will mask some of the signs that the sail is out of 
trim.  I use the much of the same trimming methods described by others 
responding to your question, especially the telltales off the top two battens.  
I will add that when pinching up below another boat I have brought the boom 
above center and slightly over trimmed the main to throw a little extra dirty 
air their way.  If I am in a cranky mood I will ask the crew to work up a fart 
or two so the bad air also stinks.

What I have not tested enough is changing the tension of the battens for 
different wind strengths.  When we have Calypso back in sailing condition, 
improving our light air performance is high on the priority list and the main 
sail near the top of that list.  I expect we will end up with a lighter newer 
design of mainsail for full on racing and use the current sail for higher wind 
forecasts and cruising.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 CC 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2015 6:52 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Cc: David Knecht
Subject: Re: Stus-List Trimming the main

All 4 batters are full and adjustable.I am certainly going to have to play 
more with boom position.  I have rarely put the boom right on centerline as it 
just hasn't felt fast, but I will do some actual comparative measurements. 
Probably comes from my dinghy experience where it is never on centerline.  
Usually I have it a few inches (2-6) off center at the rear in everything but 
heavy air.  Dave

On Aug 11, 2015, at 6:20 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:


David,

Is your main a 3 + 1?  That is, top full batten and 3 partials below.  If so, 
you should focus on the second, or top partial batten not the top full batten.

Upwind, boom on centerline, second batten guideline:

Light breeze - slightly hooked to weather.

Moderate breeze - parallel to boom.

Heavy breeze - twisted off to leeward to reduce heel.

Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 11, 2015, at 3:23 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
I have read in several places that one guideline for mainsail trim is to make 
the upper batten parallel with the boom.  My upper batten is full length with 
adjustable tension, so it is curved.  In this situation, what part of the 
batten would theoretically want to be parallel with the boom?  Thanks- Dave

Aries
1990 CC 34+
New London, CT

pastedGraphic.tiff

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Re: Stus-List Yanmar engine mounts replacement

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Patrick,



Where would you slide the angle iron? Under the rear mounts? The forward 
mounts are the ones visible in the picture in the link I sent (in the 
drivetrain photo)

Yes it is a v-drive, so that's fwd and the rear of the engine. Those are the 
mounts I want to remove.

The very bottom of the engine (oil pan) has only about 1/4 clearance above 
the prop shaft log so I suppose I could put something in there.





Lifting the engine:

When I mentioned using the angle iron I had the engine perspective reversed.  I 
do not recommend you put a load on the prop shaft log unless you are certain it 
is strong enough.  Is there room to put some lumber alongside the shaft log to 
take most of the load?



I have pulled upward with a block and tackle off the boom on several boats that 
had a lifting eye and clear access.  I could not determine from the pictures if 
you have lifting access to the boom.  If you do and use a block and tackle off 
the boom, support the boom with the main halyard not the topping lift.  I know 
a guy that broke a topping lift that way.





I figured out today that lag screws are like wood screws, and your issue with 
them might be that in theory they could pull out of the stringers. I don't 
know what the current screws securing the mount to stringer are, but 
hopefully they are lag screws because otherwise I don't know how I'd get them 
out. I'll find out when I take them out.

 I'm expecting the existing mounts may be hard to get out because the 
 bolts/nuts look a bit rusted on.



Lag bolts:

When I earlier referred to poor quality engine mount bolts I was trying to keep 
the story short.  What I found was a mix of SS lag bolts and miss-threaded or 
stripped bolts.  A prior owner used likely the lag bolts when the originals 
stripped out.  I went up a size in bolt and to a more coarse thread and 
re-tapped the original holes.  I installed one engine mount at a time using the 
other three to keep the engine under control and to give a good base line for 
mount location.  I used the scissor jack to support and raise/lower the engine 
in small increments.



Looking at your pictures I expect you have bolts tapped into the steel channel 
wrapping the top of the engine beds.  It is also possible there is a nut welded 
under the steel channel wrapped over the engine beds.  Before putting a big 
wrench on those bolts I recommend using PB Blaster or similar penetrating oil 
and maybe some gentle heat to reduce the chance of breaking the bolt heads off.

If the threads strip out it appears there is enough space around the mounts to 
tap new threads.



Feel free the email me direct with any follow up questions.  Calypso is moored 
at Shilshole, E dock in case you are in the neighborhood next Saturday 
afternoon and want to discuss engine mounts.



Martin

Calypso

1971 CC 43

Seattle






From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Patrick Davin via 
CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2015 8:29 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Patrick Davin
Subject: Stus-List Yanmar engine mounts replacement
Anyone have tips for replacing engine mounts on a Yanmar 3HM? In terms of the 
logistics, like how to prop up the engine, get the old mounts out, etc.

I have the transmission out now for a rebuild (fwd clutch failed) so it's the 
perfect time to replace mounts. I'm just going to do the forward two (back end 
of v-drive engine) because those are the two the mechanical inspection 
(purchase survey at the start of this year) said were delaminating. Plus 
Gallery Marine in Seattle has two in stock, not four. If this goes easily maybe 
I'll consider replacing the aft two.

I'm going to go with the OEM mounts instead of PYI since several online reviews 
said Yanmar OEMs were significantly better (and they look it too - a lot more 
rubber for vibration dampening). The engine vibrates a fair amount now, and a 
slight misalignment might be what caused the transmission premature wear.


Copying a mail from Martin below in 2013 on the list. Martin, I'd be interested 
in hearing more if you still recall the work you did (even though your engine 
is a Perkins, so the mounts are different). What did you mean by the existing 
engine mount bolts didn't meet your standards? I'm ignorant of what the issue 
with lag and stripped threaded bolts is. I'm expecting the existing mounts may 
be hard to get out because the bolts/nuts look a bit rusted on.

I saw your suggestion of a scissor jack, but I'm not sure where I would place 
that? The engine doesn't have super good flat surfaces between it and the hull. 
And the plates the mounts attach to look too small to fit a jack in. I've read 
that the mount nuts can just be used to raise the engine until its raised 
enough to slip the mounts out (block it with scrap wood at that point). Is that 
actually the best way? I have some pictures I could upload.

Thanks! Hoping to do this project in the 

Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 115, Issue 48

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Patrick,

… the Yanmar ones had noticeably better vibration dampening - meaning less 
vibrating of lazarette lids and the cockpit floor.

I expect any quality brand of new engine mounts will noticeably reduce the 
vibration and its associated harmonics.  Before I replaced Calypso’s engine 
mounts (2 looked original, 2 only 20 years old), at idle the vibration and 
harmonics shook the boat enough that the spinnaker pole (in its deck mounts) 
would deflect in the middle and strike the deck making a pinging sound.  After 
the replacement and re-alignment the vibration was significantly reduced but 
not eliminated.  I still stuff a few pieces of cardboard or other dampening 
material in several spots (the usual suspects) when under power for more than a 
half hour or so.

 That's part of the reason it really makes sense to do now.

Bingo.  Based on your pictures, are you able to slide a piece of angle iron 
under the rear mounts to create a lifting point?  Also, does your boat have a V 
drive or did I interpret the pics incorrectly?

I started a response to your question regarding my comments on lag bolts and 
other engine mount issues.  I spent the last two days on Calypso laminating up 
a large repair area (7 ½ sq. feet, close to a gallon of resin) so I am backed 
up a bit at me day job.  I should get it out later today.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 CC 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Patrick 
Davin via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, August 12, 2015 11:36 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Patrick Davin
Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 115, Issue 48

Josh you have great photos of the job, as usual.

Here are some pics of my existing mounts:
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BxfHpwssU_6NfnpXZjYta205U0pmeW1Ba0Fla2U3YmNBX1ByU1c4TURtb0ZaVDk2VVFQQ28usp=sharing

The Vetus mounts don't look very good. I have heard people like the captive 
attributes of the PYIs, and the oil/fuel shielding. The oil/fuel shielding 
doesn't seem like a big deal to me because the Yanmar OEMs are shielded from 
the top as well, and it doesn't appear the engine mounts have ever had oil or 
fuel spraying in from the side on them anyway. The captive aspect is nice, but 
considering the Yanmar ones I have now are probably original, they lasted 31 
years and are still in good enough shape that I wouldn't worry about the engine 
flying off. The main selling point of the Yanmar one is I read a couple forum 
posts where people said the Yanmar ones had noticeably better vibration 
dampening - meaning less vibrating of lazarette lids and the cockpit floor.

I don't need to do the realignment because the mechanic I'm paying to do the 
transmission reinstall will do that. That's part of the reason it really makes 
sense to do now.

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Re: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Diesel engines can runaway using lube oil as fuel but it is more likely on 
engines with turbo chargers.  The lube oil can leak through the turbo's bearing 
seals.  Back when I was completing my merchant marine training, the engineering 
instructor showed a video of a 6-71 running away to destruction.



If you are ever faced with a diesel that will not shut down, the recommended 
response is to stave it for air by blocking the intake.  Never use your hand.  
Less combustible materials that are handy in most boats will work.  In a pinch 
use your wife's foul weather gear.



It a great idea not to over fill the crankcase both for the runaway issue but 
also to reduce lube oil leakage, especially on older engines.  For Calypso's 
Perkins I noticed and increase in oil leaks when I switched to a higher 
detergent oil and had a full crankcase.  The leakage was less as the level 
dropped then went back to normal when I went back to Delo 100, a lower 
detergent oil.



Martin

Calypso

1971 CC 43

Seattle


From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Jean-Francois J 
Rivard via CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2015 8:50 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jean-Francois J Rivard
Subject: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning

Hi Rob,

I was told by more than 1 mechanic to be very careful about never over-filling 
the oil in my 3GM30F..  In fact they recommended keeping it between the middle 
and about 2/3 full level on the stick.  The reason for that is to avoid a 
run-away engine condition..

Apparently the excess oil can get splashed by the piston skirts and somehow 
make its way into the combustion chamber  / burn away without throttle control. 
 I was even advised to keep a rag handy near the engine to stuff it into the 
air intake and stop it should all else fail..

I am not speaking form experience, but I was told it happens more often than 
one might think.

Best regards,

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ Take Five
Lake Lanier, GA

   Mike:

  Along the line(s) of what Rick was saying about oil levels, I'll add
  this.   My Yanmar 2GMF manual says to put 2 litres of oil in the engine
  after an oil and filter change.the 2 litres will bring the oil level
  on the dipstick to the full mark only if I use a Yanmar oil filter,
  which is quite small.

  I use a NAPA 1064 Gold Seal oil filter which is larger than the Yanmar
  is and obviously size and 'volume' of oil it can handle. Therefore, I
  need more than 2 litres when I use the NAPA filter to get the dipstick
  to read fullHow much more exactly?..I haven't measured it
  exactly.I just add the extra oil beyond the 2 litres until the
  dipstick reads full.more often than not since I am not exactly
  measuring the extra oil beyond the 2 litres, the dipstick reads slightly
  above the full mark.  After reading all these comments about oil levels
  in the marine engines, I don't think I will fret about the oil level a
  little above the full mark.

  Just something else to think about.

  Are you back at the club?

  Rob Abbott
  AZURA
  CC 32 -84
  Halifax, N.S.

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Re: Stus-List Volvo penta 2003 air silencer

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

I put an AirSep air filter/silencer on Calypso's Perkins 4-108 and it did 
reduce the intake noise.  It has been a while since I have heard the engine 
with out the AirSep in place but IIRC it mostly reduced the roaring sound of 
the air rushing through the intake.



The AirSep also recycles blow by oil mist directly back into the oil pan.  On 
Calypso's older, high hours engine the blow by handling is nice feature. (BTW 
this 4-108 is Calypso's second engine installed around 1990 by the prior owner. 
 I estimate it has about 2,000 hours.)



I expect an AirSep for your engine would cost more than the Volvo part, but 
maybe not as I have heard Volvo parts can be expensive.



Martin

Calypso

1971 CC 43

Seattle


From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Bill Hoyne via 
CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2015 11:36 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Hoyne
Subject: Stus-List Volvo penta 2003 air silencer

Hi All,

I have a old (no surprise there)volvo penta 2003 and my mechanic said if I put 
an intake air silencer (part no 840691) on it would reduce the noise level of 
the engine.
Volvo unfortunately no longer makes these things. Can they be found? (No luck 
yet with search) Is there a better way to do this with other aftermarket parts?
 More importantly will this reduce the volume of noise my engine makes?

Cheers,
Bill

Mithrandir
’74 CC35 MkII
in Victoria,BC

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Re: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Was there any noise from the engine that sounded like it was short of lube oil 
pressure?



It is an easy and low cost test to buy a new oil pressure sending unit.  
Install it and test again with the engine at normal operating temp.



If you still get the warning it is likely the lube oil pump.



Martin

Calypso

1971 CC 43

Seattle


From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Hoyt, Mike via 
CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2015 9:17 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike
Subject: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning

Oil changed in May. Used 15W 40
Oil level checked July 22
300 mile delivery to Cape Breton (Dundee then Baddeck) July 23 – Aug 2

Yesterday after running engine at 2800 RPM for approx. 5.5 hrs a “clicking 
sound” was heard in cockpit.  Thought at first was from Ram mic  but was still 
there once disconnected.  Determined was coming from alarm speaker on Yanmar 
panel.  Tapped panel and then Oil pressure light illuminated and alarm sounded. 
 Shut down engine and sailed to dock (without crashing)

At dock started engine and at idle no alarm or light.  Revved up to 3000 RPM 
and the light started flickering and a sputtering sound from the speaker (the 
clicking sound we heard earlier) which was followed by full illumination of Oil 
pressure light and full alarm siren.  Stoped engine and waited.

A few minutes later retarted engine and had no alarm at idle, followed by 
sputtering and then full alarm at high rpms. Reduced RPMs to idle and alarm 
stopped and light turned off.

Any thoughts?

Boat is currently 3.5 hrs away by car so any parts will have to be taken with 
me in advance
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Re: Stus-List filters (now: Sailing adventures and repairs)

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

...write a book about your sailing ...



I might be able to pull off a short story or two but I'm not sure I have the 
chops to write a book worth reading.  I am writing down some of the details and 
boat/crew names when a story comes to mind so I do not forget as time passes.  
I have digitized most of the movies and video made during the Transpacs so when 
the original deteriorate I have back ups.



Most of it seems to involve “incidents and perilous situations.



The stories of smooth sailing and good times with friends seem less interesting 
for the cnc-list forum but better for a rendezvous or hanging out at the yacht 
club.  I do try to tie my story to the topic with a fair allowance to set and 
drift.



I will work on posting some pictures of our work on Calypso.  I may have to set 
up a photo account on a web based service as I have not been able to make the 
cnc web site photo album work for a while.



If you would like the pics of Calypso's bow roller sooner than later send me 
you preferred email address and I will email them over.



Regarding non-skid removal, I have been experimenting with using a wire brush 
on a drill motor to soften up Calypso's painted on non-skid.  We will be using 
Kiwi-Grip over new paint.



Martin

Calypso

1971 CC 43

Seattle






From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Dave Godwin via 
CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 04, 2015 5:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dave Godwin
Subject: Re: Stus-List filters (now: Sailing adventures and repairs)

Martin,

You need to write a book about your sailing career. Most of it seems to involve 
“incidents and perilous situations. Nonetheless, all great stories!

On a more serious note, have you considered posting pictures of the Great Deck 
Repair (Rebuild?) for others to view? Being face-down sanding all the non-skid 
off my decks at the moment I’d be interested in what’s going on with your 
project. I’m also interested in your windlass/chain locker/bow-roller setup as 
I go forward. Don’t think the stock cast aluminum will work.

And that camo non-skid that Dennis linked to sure looks the ticket...

Cheers,
Dave Godwin
1982 CC 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’shttp://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/ Overdue 
Refithttp://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/

On Aug 4, 2015, at 7:28 PM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Why do you need to keep the engine running offshore while you change the 
 filter?
 You may not be offshore, you may be in a tight spot where you really need it.
My reference to prepping for a long offshore voyage had more to do with being 
far away from a source of additional filters and other fuel related services.  
The utility of having two filters and a manifold that can switch between them 
without stopping the engine goes more to the Murphy’s Law odds that a single 
filter will block up at the worst possible time.
My worst inshore was departing the Ballard Locks, west bound (towards salt 
water) in the new to us 1980 CC 36. The current running out of the locks was 
pushing us towards the lowered rail road draw bridge with a clearance lower 
than our “air draft”.  As I was sounding the horn signals for an opening the 
engine quit (of course, no wind nor room to sail).  Naturally the RR bridge 
sounded the 5 short horns indicating they could not open just yet.  As we had 
taken delivery of the boat an hour earlier the anchor was not ready nor do I 
expect that anchoring in that part of the ship canal would be successful.

As the boat’s co-owner ran forward to attempt to anchor I continued to attempt 
to re-start the engine.  I could get a short burst of engine power each start.  
I left the reduction gear in reverse to buy as much time as possible before 
running the mast into the bridge structure.  The short bursts of engine power 
were classic for a blocked filter or fuel intake.  Fortunately the combo of 
good luck and the short bursts of power we bought enough time for the bridge to 
clear and begin opening.  I aimed for the south side where the bridge raises 
first to gain a few feet of clearance.  When we went under I’m convinced I 
heard the VHF antenna twang off part of the bridge.  As it turn out there was 
debris in the fuel tank including an old fuel gauge sender and some rubber 
gasket material that would get sucked up and block the fuel intake.

Years later I was helping a friend deliver his very nice fast cruising boat 
from Seattle to San Francisco.  As we were rounding Cape Flattery in calm 
weather the owner wanted to take the short cut inside Tatoosh Island. (If I was 
a delivery skipper on someone else’s boat I would have gone around Tatoosh on 
the outside.)  Naturally the filter plugged up and stalled the engine in the 
middle of the narrow passage.  The current was not helping the boat clear all 
the rocky areas.  There was some amount of “hurry up

Re: Stus-List filters

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

 Why do you need to keep the engine running offshore while you change the 
 filter?
 You may not be offshore, you may be in a tight spot where you really need it.
My reference to prepping for a long offshore voyage had more to do with being 
far away from a source of additional filters and other fuel related services.  
The utility of having two filters and a manifold that can switch between them 
without stopping the engine goes more to the Murphy’s Law odds that a single 
filter will block up at the worst possible time.
My worst inshore was departing the Ballard Locks, west bound (towards salt 
water) in the new to us 1980 CC 36. The current running out of the locks was 
pushing us towards the lowered rail road draw bridge with a clearance lower 
than our “air draft”.  As I was sounding the horn signals for an opening the 
engine quit (of course, no wind nor room to sail).  Naturally the RR bridge 
sounded the 5 short horns indicating they could not open just yet.  As we had 
taken delivery of the boat an hour earlier the anchor was not ready nor do I 
expect that anchoring in that part of the ship canal would be successful.

As the boat’s co-owner ran forward to attempt to anchor I continued to attempt 
to re-start the engine.  I could get a short burst of engine power each start.  
I left the reduction gear in reverse to buy as much time as possible before 
running the mast into the bridge structure.  The short bursts of engine power 
were classic for a blocked filter or fuel intake.  Fortunately the combo of 
good luck and the short bursts of power we bought enough time for the bridge to 
clear and begin opening.  I aimed for the south side where the bridge raises 
first to gain a few feet of clearance.  When we went under I’m convinced I 
heard the VHF antenna twang off part of the bridge.  As it turn out there was 
debris in the fuel tank including an old fuel gauge sender and some rubber 
gasket material that would get sucked up and block the fuel intake.

Years later I was helping a friend deliver his very nice fast cruising boat 
from Seattle to San Francisco.  As we were rounding Cape Flattery in calm 
weather the owner wanted to take the short cut inside Tatoosh Island. (If I was 
a delivery skipper on someone else’s boat I would have gone around Tatoosh on 
the outside.)  Naturally the filter plugged up and stalled the engine in the 
middle of the narrow passage.  The current was not helping the boat clear all 
the rocky areas.  There was some amount of “hurry up” involved in returning the 
engine to full power.  I was to learn a little later that the owner knew there 
was a lot of crud in the fuel (left over from a So Pac cruise) and was planning 
on cleaning it out in San Francisco.  He did a lot of spare filters onboard and 
was fast at changing the filters.  He did have two Racors but they were not on 
a single manifold that would allow continued fuel flow when switching filters.  
We made it to San Francisco in 4 days but he changed a lot of filters on calm 
days.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 CC 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 04, 2015 3:19 PM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Re: Stus-List filters

You may not be offshore, you may be in a tight spot where you really need it.
Dennis C.

On Tue, Aug 4, 2015 at 4:56 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
Why do you need to keep the engine running offshore while you change the filter?
Andy
CC 40
Peregrine

On Tue, Aug 4, 2015 at 5:28 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

On Tue, Aug 4, 2015 at 4:21 PM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
If I was preparing for a long offshore voyage I would install a dual fuel 
filter manifold with a vacuum gauge.

If you price Racor's dual filter system, you'll faint.  However, you needn't 
install one of those or even a second filter identical to whatever you 
currently have.  You need only install a small inexpensive filter to keep the 
engine running while you change the element in your main primary filter and 
then switch back.
Dennis C.

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--
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260

___

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Re: Stus-List filters

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Typically I change Calypso’s diesel fuel filters annually or after +-100 hours. 
 If I am setting out on a longer cruise and expecting to putting a lot of hours 
on the auxiliary engine I will change the filters before leaving Seattle and 
carry 2 filter changes with me.

Older tanks that have not been cleaned may let you get away with infrequent 
filter changes right up until they don’t.  According to Murphy’s Law, filters 
will plug on dark and stormy nights, not sunny and calm afternoons in sight of 
a full service boatyard.

With a recently cleaned tank the risk of long term contamination building up is 
reduced but diesel fuel tanks can build up an algae problem quickly.  I use an 
anti-algae treatment and occasionally a cetane booster, especially if the fuel 
in the tank is more than 6 months old.  There has been some recent debate on 
whether it is better to keep the boat’s tank full to reduce air exposure and 
resulting condensation.  Typically I top off Calypso’s tank at the end of the 
racing season so it is mostly full over the winter. Calypso’s fuel tank has 
been at less than ½ through the current deck restoration project.  When we 
re-commission the boat I will be inspecting the tank to look for algae and 
condensation build up.  I will not be surprised to find enough that a fuel 
polishing/tank cleaning will be needed.

If I was preparing for a long offshore voyage I would install a dual fuel 
filter manifold with a vacuum gauge.  The next upgrade would be the ability to 
circulate the fuel through the filters in case I picked up some contaminated 
fuel.  Next step after that is to add a day tank that only filtered fuel enters 
and where the engine draws its fuel from.

I sailed a Transpac (1985) on a custom 52’ ULDB that would suffer from engine 
stalls when the boat heeled or rolled.  The boat sailed much better than it 
powered.  We were first to finish in class B, only being beat in by some of the 
70 footers.  We crossed gybes with Merlin 400 miles out of Diamond Head.  Our 
navigator won the Transpac Navigator’s trophy that year.  IIRC that summer of 
sailing on that chartered boat was the most fun I have had with my clothes on.

The fuel starvation problem was fixed by adding a day tank on centerline above 
the engine.  Each day several gallons of fuel would be transferred to the day 
tank from the main tanks and all was well.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 CC 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bev Parslow 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 04, 2015 12:06 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bev Parslow
Subject: Stus-List filters

Last year after we changed both fuel filters and then cleaned out the tank on 
the 29-2. On the weekend it appears that the filters need to be changed again. 
Is this normal? We have been putting in the usual additives. What is working 
with your fuel systems?
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Re: Stus-List Best prop for 34+

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

 Re MAX Prop screws: The screws are a special metric size so ordered new 
 ones ( a buck each). Decided then that changing zinc during haul out made 
 more sense since I could put a drop of Locktite on them - problem of lost 
 screws/lost zinc solved.

MAX prop zinc mounting screws from PYI have a coating of blue Loctite on the 
first ¼ to help prevent them from coming loose.  If you are hauled out and 
re-use the screws it is a greatidae to renew the Loctite.  If you change the 
zinc in the water as I often do the new screw's Loctite will not wash off 
during installation.

I prep the 70mm MAX prop zinc to help prevent it from prematuraly falling off.  
First I file the bottom flat as the zinc casting is not always flat.  Next I 
paint the very thin area around the outside of the mounting holes (not allowing 
any paint to block the zinc to prop interface). I used model paint.  Avoid 
black as there seems to be an iteraction between the black coloring and the 
zinc/seawater.  The paint prevents the very thin outer edge of the 70mm zinc 
from eroding sooner than the bulk of the anode and allowing a zinc with 50% of 
its life left to fall off.

When installing the zinc I clean/lightly file the prop interface.  I install 
and tighten the screws in a manner similar to lug nuts to obtain an even 
seating. I give a light tap with a hammer to be sure the zinc is seated.  I am 
careful to get the screws tight but not to stress the threads in the prop hub.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 CC 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Blair 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 04, 2015 8:54 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: David Blair
Subject: Re: Stus-List Best prop for 34+

Another small point. When I had a diver change the Maxprop zinc it later fell 
off because the retaining screws worked out completely. The screws are a 
special metric size so ordered new ones ( a buck each). Decided then that 
changing zinc during haul out made more sense since I could put a drop of 
Locktite on them - problem of lost screws/lost zinc solved.  Cheers


On Aug 3, 2015, at 9:14 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

When you put a zinc on the shaft, there is normally a bit of slack in the whole 
assembly. This is usually fixed by whacking the zinc with a hammer to seat it 
on the shaft. Unless you back up the other side of the shaft with something 
relatively immobile, you stand a chance of bending the shaft. So, you hold a 
BFH (large hammer) on the back end of the zinc when you whack it.
The thinnest part of the zinc is at the bridge between the two halves, so if 
you liberally coat those surfaces with paint, nail polish, or whatever, the 
zincs will not vanish and leave you with no protection.
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
CC 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


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Re: Stus-List filters

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

 If you price Racor's dual filter system, you'll faint.

Agreed, and it wouldn’t be the first time the staff of Fisheries Supply in 
Seattle would find an unconscious boat owner on the floor.

When looking at adding the twin filter manifold to Calypso I was planning on 
building my own manifold.  There have been some good deals on fuel filters 
online that would reduce the sticker shock and my rudimentary plumbing skills 
should be up to the task.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 CC 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 04, 2015 2:29 PM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Re: Stus-List filters


On Tue, Aug 4, 2015 at 4:21 PM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
If I was preparing for a long offshore voyage I would install a dual fuel 
filter manifold with a vacuum gauge.

If you price Racor's dual filter system, you'll faint.  However, you needn't 
install one of those or even a second filter identical to whatever you 
currently have.  You need only install a small inexpensive filter to keep the 
engine running while you change the element in your main primary filter and 
then switch back.
Dennis C.
___

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Re: Stus-List Windlass info

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

… use a tupperware box sealed on around it..

I did this when installing a Lewmar Ocean 2 windlass on Calypso’s foredeck 
approx. 6’ back from the stem.  I do recommend cutting some drain and 
ventilation holes in the Tupperware box to prevent trapping salt water in and 
around the motor/gearbox.  On Calypso’s installation salt water drips off the 
chain/rode and can splash around the motor/gear box area.  The hawse pipe 
(approx. 4” fiberglass tube) is not long enough to prevent all the splash near 
the motor even with the Tupperware in place.

With Calypso’s 24K lb. displacement increasing the risk of deck damage from 
anchor handling loads we added a fiberglass beam under the windlass and an 
additional bulkhead at the forward end of the anchor locker.  The additional 
structure prevents that long section of deck from distorting under full 
windlass load.  Calypso was built as a full race boat (1969/70 style) with no 
consideration for cruising style anchoring gear.

We converted the empty space forward of the fo’c'sle (v-berth/sail stowage 
area) into a deep anchor locker and fender storage space.  The conversion 
included cutting out a section the deck for an access hatch approx. 3’ long by 
a tapered 2’ to 1’ wide.  As part of the ongoing deck restoration project I 
have custom fabricated a gutter to help prevent water on the foredeck from 
dripping into the anchor locker.  I should have done this back when the 
conversion was first done (1999) but I thought weather stripping would be 
sufficient.  It was not.

After 14 years of use the windlass motor/gear box needs repainting and the some 
of the wiring requires replacement owing to the corrosive environment.  I am 
satisfied with the Lewmar windlass and its performance.  When cruising we use 
90’ of chain, 300’ of rode on a 65lb. CQR main anchor.  We do have the windlass 
model with a drum for line handling which has been used for hoisting me up the 
mast but not much else.  The drum does add extra height which is less desirable 
when racing but useful when sailing shorthanded on a heavy displacement boat.

For the bow roller we went with a custom fabrication, 2 rollers mounted in a SS 
frame (3 vertical plates welded to the base plate, all polished to look like 
chrome) bolted through the stem fitting including a plate that runs down the 
stem for 2 or 3 bolts and aft along the hull to deck joint 3 to 4 bolts.  I did 
remove some of the toe rail’s vertical structure leaving the horizontal 
aluminum as support underneath the roller’s base plate.  Calypso’s (along with 
the other 43’s) stem fitting is different than most CC production models and 
is not a cast aluminum fitting but was a compact SS structure.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 CC 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: Description: Description: 
cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew 
Burton via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 03, 2015 8:57 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Burton
Subject: Re: Stus-List Windlass info

Haven't made it that far yet. Right now I just have a couple of holes in my 
foredeck. I will probably just use a tupperware box sealed on around it for now 
and then build something decent out of aluminum that I can screw in place and 
bed with butyl tape.
Andy
CC 40
Peregrine

On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 11:52 AM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
Me too! : also, what did you do below decks for the motor housing?  Thanks!

Richard
1985 CC 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584.4

Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255tel:502-584-7255


-Original Message-
From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Burton a.burton.sai...@gmail.commailto:a.burton.sai...@gmail.com
Sent: Mon, Aug 3, 2015 11:46 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Windlass info
happy to share!

On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 11:29 AM, David via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
Andy,

Love to see the pattern for the roller mount.   Might even steal it if you 
look the other way...

David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)
___

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Re: Stus-List Howling rigging

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

I have experienced the same hum, rattle, and shake on 3 different CC's over 
many years of PNW sailing both t anchor and tied to pier.  It is my best guess 
that a cross wind of just the right angle and strength will create the 
harmonics needed to rattle and shake the rig.



I have tried many different combos of more/less baby stay, back stay, side 
loads etc to alleviate the shaking.  On the 1980 CC 36 I found a line run aft 
from the bow, tied around the mast 6' up from the deck reduced the shaking 
considerably.



On Calypso (much larger mast section) the shaking was easier to reduce with 
more baby stay and back stay tension plus securing the burgee and courtesy flag 
(when in BC).  The burgee and courtesy flags seemed to initiate some of the rig 
shaking.



If your rig has both fore and aft lower shrouds (Calypso and the 36 do/did not) 
changing the tension a bit on those rig elements may be worth a try.



Martin

Calypso

1971 CC43

Seattle


From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Jim Watts via 
CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Friday, July 31, 2015 7:26 PM
To: 1 CnC List
Cc: Jim Watts
Subject: Stus-List Howling rigging

On our latest trip north, we anchored in Clam Bay and had a strange problem. At 
a certain wind speed, the shrouds would start to hum, sometimes making the boat 
shake with vibration. The major vibration was felt in the small rod running to 
the underside of the upper spreaders and in the mast and backstay.  I backed 
each shroud one off half a turn and it really didn't do much except make those 
shrouds look loose to me, but I'm sure I can't tell the difference of 1/128th 
of an inch. It eventually faded as the wind dropped.
For the next ten days, in all sorts of conditions, we didn't hear it, but when 
we anchored in the same bay 10 days later, we got it again.
Any explanation except witchcraft?

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
CC 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
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