nto my current machine, and wondering what they're
> going for these days.
>
> On Wednesday, August 23, 2023 at 3:42:39 PM UTC-5 Eric Christoffersen
> wrote:
>
>> To close this I ended up getting a b4 off ebay. Quite a lovely machine
>> inside.
>>
>> On M
To close this I ended up getting a b4 off ebay. Quite a lovely machine
inside.
On Monday, July 24, 2023 at 5:09:42 PM UTC-7 Eric Christoffersen wrote:
> I went shopping for a 2nd machine and not really impressed. Now thinking
> it'd be best to just get another brewtus. I figure I can kee
That looks a bit different from the one on my brewtus 2. On the b2 I have a
plastic hose with a squared edge that is captured by a nut. Looks like
yours might be held in p[ace with a barb?
I'd remove the parts that you can, soak in white vinegar to remove
minerals, then figure out how to
sometimes a local cell phone repair place has the gear and skills to
replace the soldered components on the control board.
On Monday, July 31, 2023 at 11:45:46 AM UTC-7 Ira wrote:
> Hello David,
>
> Monday, July 31, 2023, 11:44:06 AM, you wrote:
>
> > Well, I tried to replace the relay, but
> Also, the CafeParts device is labeled as "Gicar" while the below device has
>>> no name at all. And even if this is the correct replacement part, I'm not
>>> sure it would solve the issue.
>>>
>>> What do you think?
>>>
>>> [image: IM
I went shopping for a 2nd machine and not really impressed. Now thinking
it'd be best to just get another brewtus. I figure I can keep them running
or bring them back to life.
Anyone have an old brewtus they'd sell me? Condition/aesthetics aren't
important but I do need one that can be used
At least take a look at the control board, something burned? Relay stuck?
Capacitor swollen? I'd love to understand the cause of the delay.
On Monday, July 24, 2023 at 6:44:47 AM UTC-7 Dunja wrote:
> This is interesting, my Brewtus is of a similar age and I also just
> encountered a similar
Was thinking about this flow control this am, thought I should give an
update.
I pretty much always use it now, every shot just to keep brew pressure in
the 7-7.25 range. Without it the brew is incredibly susceptible to small
changes in grind or tamp, and there's just no correcting mid shot.
Boom doesn't sound good. No sign of moisture anywhere? Did you happen to
notice the steam boiler pressure reading?
I've had pstat stick so that steam boiler pressure release was triggered.
It was not a boom. It was a big loud burst of steam that left inside of the
machine wet. The steam
The board pulls right out of the plastic enclosure.
My cap wasn't bulging. Use your multimeter's capacitor test function. Its
capacitance degrades over time. If its below spec replace it. Probably I
will wait until symptoms before I replace it again. The symptom is an loud
60hz buzzing from
ilers, etc.
>
> I decided to send the control board for inspection. Turned out to be a
> bad relay on the board. They replaced it and my espresso machine is
> working again! So these machines are repairable.
>
> On Tue, Nov 8, 2022 at 9:22 PM Eric Christoffersen
> wrote:
Hi Mark,
I just had to deal with control board problem. Dont' be intimidated its a
really simple thing. The control board exists to manage state, to make sure
steam boiler is full before heat is applied.
I'm sorry I might have some of this wrong but its on the right track. I
dont' have my
Well... Installed new steam element, new solenoid, new gicar. Turn on
machine and it fills steam tank quickly and stops. Its quieter than before.
And... still no steam heat light. Not seeing any voltage to the pstat.
I think next step is to take out the giemme board and check it. Never done
I just replaced pid and the spade connector insulation was crispy like
yours. .I recovered the spades with heat shrink tubing.
On Tuesday, January 25, 2022 at 9:47:09 AM UTC-8 Andre wrote:
> Looks like one of the contact on steam boiler pressure stat switch cooked
> and became brittle. Is
uot;It was time." There might be a cracked solder joint or
something but it was falling to dust in my hands.
On Thursday, January 13, 2022 at 8:45:03 AM UTC-8 Eric Christoffersen wrote:
> Help - Need some theories about root cause.
>
> For a few years now if machine is run until reservo
I ended up wrapping mine with a piece of a wool sweater.
On Friday, January 14, 2022 at 10:23:50 AM UTC-8 Andre wrote:
> And another off topic question for the group- has anyone been able to
> replace the boilers fiberglass? insulation. Mine isn’t in the best shape
> especially after flipping
Help - Need some theories about root cause.
For a few years now if machine is run until reservoir is empty, when I
refill reservoir with machine on it will in one of 5 occupancies start an
awful pump juddering. High frequency off/on of the pump. When it happens I
open brew switch which forces
,
clamped in vice and emitting noxious smoke at service station. This was a
b2 with fabled epoxy sealant. Now that element has been out it can come out
easily with wrench.
On Tuesday, December 14, 2021 at 9:30:05 AM UTC-8 KJM wrote:
> On 14/12/21 5:38 pm, Eric Christoffersen wrote:
> > Um..
Um... I would be very surprised if you could remove the element without
first removing the boiler from the machine. Its quite a bit of force, I had
boiler wrapped in a towel and clamped in a vise at the gas station. No way
to stabilize the boiler while its in the machine.
Did I misread? You
Awesome. Well it went it that hole so should come out….
I’m guessing there’s a concretion of minerals? Fill boiler with vinegar and
let sit overnight will soften up the mank so you can pull it free.
Things to replace… you’ve got it all apart, nows the time to thoroughly
demineralize. Soak as
Ok I just have a guess. Something that will do you no harm to check...
First, do you own some cafiza? Some sort of coffee machine detergent? Its
terrific stuff. You should periodically disassemble and boil group head
parts in it. 20 minutes boiled in cafiza you'll be shocked how much tarry
Congrats on it lasting so long, my original controller only lasted 7 or so
years. Recently my second power switch started crumbling to dust.
Why wouldn’t you just get the pid kit? As far as I can tell there’s
aesthetic reasons to get a different machine but coffee won’t be better. As
you know
Great picture. Yup, you got it.
You want a 6,10,12, and also a 9. And then order a #17 but 8.5mm made from
silicone from cafelat on amazon.
Shame is that for those plungers all we really need is part #7 but at least
on mine I could find no way to disassemble (nor could I find #7 for sale
There are actually 3 of those brass plunger things. Two at the bottom and
one at the top. Mine were all cooked, so I'd guess if you need 2 you will
need all 3.
The other thing to get are the brew axle sealing gaskets. The brew lever
attaches the the axle, the axle goes into the grouphead and
Went to order water softener from whole latte love - they're actually in
stock! And at top of page they were advertising 'free flow profile with
machine purchase', implying they have them in stock too.
Guy on phone was super nice, asked manager and was able to sell me the
profitech e61 flow
Ok, on the bottom of your grouphead is a long silver cylinder. Takes a big
wrench, 35mm? Inside are two springs and a pair of brass posts with rubber
washers on them.
My guess is that this area is completely full of tar. Let machine cool,
undo that cylinder, take note of part location and
Hi All, figured I should share my fresh memories of pump change on my b2.
I'm writing these notes for you but also so I can find them the next time
the pump goes out.
One day for no reason the brewtus was unable to produce more than 5 bar.
Pump got quiet and sort of hummed. I checked the hoses
I was so happy to get that original sealant out. My original elements took
minutes to come free using blasts from a giant air-wrench at a local
service station, and then I took a good long time to gently pry that
sealant out of the threads with a pick. Nasty stuff. Permanent. It made
element
Good job, thanks for sharing. All our machines will start to fail with
these weird sort of age related problems.
I looked at the picture and still couldn't see any blackening. Was it where
the spade connected to the switch?
Other than that pesky 50% repro - couldn't you debug this with a
Upgrade-itis: Oh yeah. Sorry but Difference is really amazing. I was honestly
expecting a small difference like when i borrowed my friends m3.
Coffee is night and day different, very sweet, no bitterness and about a 100x
more intensity. If anything sometimes too intense.
Im mostly brewing so
iPad
>
> > On Aug 15, 2020, at 16:24, Eric Christoffersen wrote:
> >
> > I think your maintanance list is a bit over the top. The machine is
> easy to work on. I backflush and boil portafilter with cafiza every month
> or so. I suppose frequency depends on beans and use
helps you and/or others! Also works great for the silicone one.
>
> My pf always sticks to the silicone gasket and the basket pops out of the
> pf. Any ideas?
>
> Best,
> b
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Aug 15, 2020, at 16:25, Eric Christoffersen wrote:
> >
Hey guys. All your fault the max grinder arrived. Cant believe what a
difference it made over the robur, coffee is totally different now. Night and
day upgrade. Bitterness gone, shots are crazy sweet.
Anyone thinking of an upgrade the kafatek grinders are a no brainer. In my
opinion a
I think your maintanance list is a bit over the top. The machine is easy to
work on. I backflush and boil portafilter with cafiza every month or so. I
suppose frequency depends on beans and use. Im still using my original screen.
After all these years im guessing something breaks On my machine
What is wrong with brass boilers? Does it add a taste? Its been the go to
corrosion proof metal since forever.
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I removed the elements from my early b2, took some doing. I had been warned on
here so didnt even try at home.
Removing heating element: i went to local (old school) gas station with a
stack of towels. Put it into their giant vice wrapped lovingly and hit it with
their impact wrench. Super
>> On Sat, Jun 20, 2020 at 4:00 PM Adam Meade > > wrote:
>>
>>> "I'm shocked that you were able to operate the machine for 14 years
>>> without opening it up."
>>>
>>> Same! My new Brewtus IV barely went a year before I had to open it
I would buy it myself. Really though youre buying a collection of parts. It
will go for many more years but you'll be inside soon enough. If you dont
own them already buy a digital multimeter and some better than harbor
freight wrenches. Order the cafelat silicon portafilter gasket, ??? Profit!
Yandi,
You're in Lombok! I bet most folks here don't realize what a completely
different world you live in. Good to know there's a brewtus there. I'd love
to hear what you are using for coffee. Some pretty exotic stuff available
in indonesia - if you know who to ask.
I'm shocked that you were
Just my opinion:
1.
is this a good deal?
Yeah. I think so. A machine that makes coffee like this with similar
reliability goes for at least twice as much. It seems like a fair price.
2.
Will this be a headache with stuff breaking down? thats the only concern
That looks like what mine did. Why cant you clean the plastic out? In my case
it was so friable it was easy to remove with a steel pick.
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That'll be the new thing. Shining up the inside of your espresso machine to
a mirror polish. Like a tuba!
On Friday, March 20, 2020 at 12:39:04 PM UTC-7, Joseph Helminiak wrote:
>
> So far clean inside and out :)
>
> On Monday, March 16, 2020 at 8:19:01 PM UTC-5, Joseph Helminiak wrote:
>>
>>
If you are methodical and have some 6 point wrenches the machines are
pretty easy to strip down. Take the boilers out and to a garage that
actually fixes things, maybe a suspension ship - bring some beer for their
inconvenience. Wrap each boiler in a towel and clamp softly in a vice, then
go
In for a penny, in for a pound.
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Well guys... I won some sort of payment lottery this weekend. Is all your fault
I’ve got a new grinder in the way. Sometime in July?
Cheers,
Eric
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>
> On Thu, Feb 20, 2020 at 6:38 PM Eric Christoffersen > wrote:
>
>> That’s a wild claim for a tamper... mine sure sees bad pours. But don’t
>> you also happen to have a monolith grinder?
>>
>> --
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That’s a wild claim for a tamper... mine sure sees bad pours. But don’t you
also happen to have a monolith grinder?
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I had my first pstat rot on my b2. the plastic was impossibly fragile and
crisped into dust when i tried to remove it. I had to use a pick to clean
the plastic out of the brass threads.
I use teflon tape when reinstalling. I have some good flare nut wrenches i
use whenever possible.
Not sure
I don't think so... its so difficult to get it fully flushed. The water is
all connected internally so if some outlet makes nasty water you should
check that uncommon part of that outlet.
Maybe try disassembling and cleaning out the water tap and steam heads?
Also try cycling more water
n Tue, Feb 4, 2020 at 7:42 AM David Bengtsson > wrote:
> >
> > Thank you. I have e-mailed the german dealer to see if they know if
> > the kit will work. They sell other parts for Expobar so I think they
> > have the knowledge.
> >
> >
> &
Can you describe the taste? All the water in the machine is connected. Does
water pulled from brew head have same taste?
On Tuesday, February 4, 2020 at 3:02:15 AM UTC-8, Rich wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> I have had my IV-R Brewtus for a while now and love it. I mostly use the
> (currently leaking
That kit is more complete and looks like a great price. The top and bottom
pieces look like the correct plungers. The lobed thing in the middle looks
different from the Cam brew lever shaft in my b2 - I don’t think mine has a
spring? Might work? I’ve never replaced that middle piece, just the
https://groups.google.com/forum/m/#!topic/brewtus/6d7wrpEcxk8
another attempt to link my post about this issue.
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Exactly what happened to me. There’s plungers with springs in your group head
that prevent water escaping until you lift the brew lever. Now no longer
sealing so water escapes during brew.
You get at
Aren't these machines great!
The overtemp cutoff switches are the dealies on top of the boilers with the
tiny press buttons on top and a screw on each side. They click and cut
power if a boiler ever goes over temperature. After n-years the plastic on
mine all turned to dust.
Oh, an important
stuff I've replaced on my b2:
pump
pstat (2x)
group head recirc/exhaust springs and seals
brew lever seal (3x)
overtemp cutoff switches (plastic turns to dust.)
pid screen
vacuum relief oring (15x)
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I had oscillating brew pressure problem, turned out to be the ancient
cooked seals in the group head:
https://groups.google.com/d/topic/brewtus/6d7wrpEcxk8/discussion
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I suspect an effective ad for folks in this group would show common parts
substitution and wiring connector porn.
After all these years with the b2 I’m still more excited to upgrade my grinder.
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To
ks https://www.espressocare.com/products/item/pressurestat-jaeger .
> It's better than the one that comes on it.
>
> Herman
>
>
> On Mon, Nov 4, 2019 at 5:37 PM Eric Christoffersen > wrote:
>
>> Hi All.
>>
>> Part still hasn't arrived. Called wll and they said "Oh
Hi All.
Part still hasn't arrived. Called wll and they said "Oh shucks... its on
back order." Thats after telling me on the phone that it'd go out the next
day.
So... I need the part sooner rather than later. Anyone point me to a part
number or compatible part so I can order from someone
PTFE should easily tolerate the heat in your machine. Melts at 650f.
Stainless housing is for abrasion. It doesn't insulate. I think its often
better to avoid because it hides the condition of the actual tubing. Big
problem when car enthusiasts replace their oem brake lines with upgraded
Cool! Congrats on finding a root cause.
On Wednesday, January 9, 2019 at 7:30:14 PM UTC-8, David Maltais wrote:
>
> So, new PID came from WLL. Removed the faulty one to confirm what I was
> thinking. Steam wand leak created a short on the board.
>
>
>
I had a problem with pid not heating brew element, problem went away when I
got rid of my cheap old wall timer switch. I can't say why this happened
but my machine's pid has now been working great for more than a year once I
got a higher quality timer switch.
So... try a different house
spring and brass bits with seals attached already. I’d check the usual
> suspects, i.e. WLL, Chris’, Seattle Espresso Gear, 1st Line.
>
> best,
> bmc
>
> > On Apr 13, 2018, at 09:43, Eric Christoffersen <zak...@gmail.com
> > wrote:
> >
> >
Yes! Dissembled and the seals in the lower exhaust cylinder are hard like
bakealite. No scale, no tar but seals are done-ski.
While waiting for machine to cool I Found this YouTube video, Seattle coffee
gear: internals of e61 grouphead featuring bill Crossland, describes leakage
when seals
Oh! I missed the last part of your post! Spring in brew group? I’ve never had
that apart, I didn’t know there was a spring in there! If there is it is
probably clogged with tar and scale.
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It is not coming out of the tiny spigot, on my machine that shiney little bent
tube isn’t hooked to anything. Water is coming out of the silver cylinder
that’s the bottom part of the grouphead, is fed from a big copper pipe.
I’m going to sand the old pressure plunger smooth and install, see if
pump and letting it work most effectively?
>
> I’d try a known good pump, if possible. You may end up down the rabbit
> hole, though, because you might see scale in the end of water tubing, and
> get a case of the “while I’m here”s...
>
> Best and let us know,
> bmc
>
&g
:
> THAT is caused by SCALE
>
> On Fri, Mar 23, 2018 at 5:28 AM, herman dickens <herman...@gmail.com
> > wrote:
>
>> It sounds like you fixed it.
>>
>> On Fri, Mar 23, 2018 at 2:06 AM, Eric Christoffersen <zak...@gmail.com
>> > wrote:
>>
>>>
These machines are pretty simple. You'll definitely get more money if you
get it working before trying to sell!
Why not describe the symptoms precisely so we can help you fix it?
Could probably sell it locally once it works.
On Monday, March 12, 2018 at 9:55:57 AM UTC-7, Chris Bailey wrote:
PM UTC-8, Eric Christoffersen
wrote:
>
> My Brewtus2 has a hole behind the drip tray to reach a flathead that
> controls the brew pressure, along with a sticker telling me to never adjust
> it myself. I replaced that manky broken original that was controlled with
> plastic flat
My Brewtus2 has a hole behind the drip tray to reach a flathead that
controls the brew pressure, along with a sticker telling me to never adjust
it myself. I replaced that manky broken original that was controlled with
plastic flathead some years ago with what looks like a nicer one that has a
Congrats!
Meter to get? You can spend lots but I've been happy with my extech ex330.
$50. Get some better leads that can clip to wire.
On Saturday, October 14, 2017 at 6:42:39 PM UTC-7, Nicholas Majka wrote:
> Thanks Bruce really kind of you! Unfortunately I just put in the PID this
>
Took out the old switch tonight, tested for continuity it is truly buggered
inside. I crimped some male spade connectors onto a press toggle switch from
Home Depot and I'm off to the races.
Honestly it's sort of nice to cut the pump before closing the brew valve.
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Thank you Ira!!
I spent an hour yesterday on McMaster-Carr and grainger. Couldn't find
something close. Now I'm armed with "Roller Plunger" and the world is my
roller plunger oyster.
Eric
On Tuesday, September 19, 2017 at 12:48:42 PM UTC-7, Ira wrote:
> Hello Eric,
>
> Tuesday, September 19,
Well then... now it is 2017 and my replacement switch just went T.U.
This time failure went like this: Wife pulls a shot. I pull 3 shots. Wife
attempts to pull a shot, reports that machine is sounding bad and not
brewing.
I find the switch is letting intermittent current flow, no way to turn
If you're feeling lucky there is an amazing thing you can get called a strap
wrench, can try applying opposite pressure on its handle. I got my strap wrench
at Napa for $10 or so.
Strap wrench will also make short work of jars in the kitchen.
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Channelling seems more likely if I just switch brew to 'on' without
pre-infuse. I pre-infuse for 3 or 4 seconds and shots seem better. I found
that coffee, coffee weight and grind matter more than pre-infuse.
On Sunday, August 21, 2016 at 12:13:39 PM UTC-7, Alan278 wrote:
>
> i've started to
lished test results.
> bmc
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Sep 15, 2016, at 09:38, Eric Christoffersen <zak...@gmail.com
> > wrote:
>
> +1 on the thicker (yellow or pink) Teflon tape. Seals well yet I am now
> able to remove the element using hand tools. Remembe
+1 on the thicker (yellow or pink) Teflon tape. Seals well yet I am now
able to remove the element using hand tools. Remember with teflon tape more
isn't better, just a single wrap was all I needed. Clean the threads well
before reinstalling.
On Tuesday, September 13, 2016 at 9:42:46 AM UTC-7,
relay.
Least favorite thing is that it is inconvenient to turn the power on
manually (need to reach behind machine, open the enclosure, fiddle with a
tiny switch.)
Eric
On Monday, June 27, 2016 at 5:38:11 PM UTC-7, Eric Christoffersen wrote:
>
> Ok guys. Sorry for the delayed
Thank you Ira for restoring my faith in slayer :) and OMG that grinder is
sweet!
On Thursday, June 30, 2016 at 11:51:33 AM UTC-7, Ira wrote:
> I was at the SCAA show in Atlanta and the best shot of espresso I've ever
> had in my life came from a 1 group Slayer.
>
> And make sure you have a
ey spent on thick slabs of expensive metal, serving no function
> other than decoration.
> 4) Poor parts support -- VERY slow.
> 5) badly made wire harnesses, too short / too long, etc.
> 6) ridiculously over priced.
>
> (from a guy who works on them, ME)
>
> On Mon,
). Has anyone any comments about the aforementioned three units
> that may be of help to this gentleman? Of course, he should really provide
> a budget. Also, I assume that he is going to plumb the unit in, as I think
> that pre-infusion requires it (or am I wrong?)
>
> Ken K
>
>
&g
Forgot to mention, I'm driving a brewtus 2, got a pid a few years ago. Now
it is just over 10 years old.
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Hi Mark,
I'll share my opinions.
The brewtus is pretty hokey inside, so won't call the construction
'suburb', but at the same time I've found it to be very maintainable for
many years. As in, I'm managing to keep it limping along just fine for
years now. At this point to me the brewtus is
Ok guys. Sorry for the delayed response and thanks for the riveting
conversation. I am 99% of the way to 'fixed' the only thing missing is my
own understanding. I got an element and the correct socket delivered,
waiting in my holster. All set to replace except that every time I went to
Found this page:
https://www.seattlecoffeegear.com/assets/files/silvia-pid-operation-manual.pdf
Discussing use of pid with silvia. It talks about the meanings of the
different constants. This section:
*Fine tuning the PID Constants *
The parameters for the PID controller have been optimized
Honestly I don't remember which is which with the temp control stuff. This
is a b2 so original stuff was replaced long ago. I had to replace
the display again a while ago (error code A2.)
There is a biggish box bolted to the bottom of the machine, I think its's a
relay of some sort? Then there
;herman...@gmail.com
> > wrote:
>
> Don't worry it will come back. lol Good luck, hopefully it's something
> easy.
>
> On Sat, Mar 5, 2016 at 10:27 AM, Eric Christoffersen <zak...@gmail.com
> > wrote:
>
>> Woke this am mind ready to disassemble and test. And the m
Woke this am mind ready to disassemble and test. And the machine is now at
temp and seems to be working fine.
So maybe... ordering the part... fixed the problem???
Well, at least I'll have the part when it does conk out.
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>
>
> Thanks All, great response bmc.
I'm no longer running the original controller, actually now on my second
pid controller. The reason I doubt the controller is that I'm clearly
getting some brew temp, mostly brewable at 194f, and the way the temp is
fading makes me think it is resistance
Hi Guys,
Problem with my brewtus 2.
On Wednesday I see that machine indicates 198f. It never reaches 203f.
On thursday the machine won't go above 196. Today it is stuck between 193
and 194.
The dot on the pid is mostly lit except when steam boiler comes on,
indicating there should be voltage
Ok, being amazon the '2 day free shipping' ordered friday was due to arrive
tomorrow but instead the mailman knocked at my door this sunday at 10am.
Thats good news. More good news is that the new pump appears to be a drop
in replacement and seems to work fine.
However, the pump replacement
>
> If you do replace the elements, you can do it with the boilers in the
>> machine, so long as you can get an impact wrench (but you do risk
>> spinning
>> the boiler and wrecking the copper tubes attached. Probably safer to
>> pull
>> them and use a jig in a vice to
Revive old thread for 2016:
Last week my brew pump started sounding weak, running inconsistently. This
morning it wouldn't generate more than 2 bar. No Coffee!
Water flows (albeit slowly) when the portafilter is empty (pump still
sounds gimpy. Not much flow at all when there's a puck in place
d? That's
>> awesome; I didn't even know they made them that long ago. My B2 is about 8
>> or 9, I think. I can't remember.
>> best,
>> bmc
>>
>> Sent from my apple IIe
>>
>> On Dec 23, 2015, at 08:20, Eric Christoffersen <zak...@gmail.com
Well, new PID fixed it.
No drama, I installed new one and now machine works.
Took the old one apart but see nothing obviously wrong.
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Where can I find this video? I just picked up a B1 upgraded upgraded to a
PID last month. When I turn it on, it displays 1.05 for about 2 seconds.
Then heats up and works as expected.
Curtis
The Most Excellent Video is here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UIiLeRdVWAU
Mine also
On Tuesday, April 21, 2015 at 11:06:48 PM UTC-7, Curtis H wrote:
On Monday, 20 April 2015 10:08:39 UTC-7, Eric Christoffersen wrote:
I am SUPER THANKFUL to WLL for the brewtus electrical's video. I knew 70%
of it but still that video rocks!
Where can I find this video? I just
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