Just spent my first hour with my K1 kit. Here's what I'm missing so far:
2 - Thermal insulator, TO220; for Q6, Q7 (RF BOARD)
1 - Acrylic display bezel; for LCD (Front Panel)
1- 2N7000 transistor, TO-92 plastic
I have two extra resistors.
That's just the Packing Box Parts List and the Front
Just spent my first hour with my K1 kit. Here's what I'm missing so
far:
2 - Thermal insulator, TO220; for Q6, Q7 (RF BOARD)
1 - Acrylic display bezel; for LCD (Front Panel)
Found these in the envelope marked Serial Number Kit. That could have been
identified better. :-)
1- 2N7000
I need some recommendations on a soldering
station and also approx cost if you know it.
I'm having good luck with the Hakko 936 I bought from www.wassco.com for
$88.50.
Read the recommendations scattered throughout the Elecraft site (Builder
Resources has several articles) and you'll find
okay I am a bit naive here but why would anyone need two k2s?
Put one under each of the front legs of your chair to allow you to recline
while operating your third K2? :-)
Craig
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You must be
I just finished K1 #1966. I hadn't touched a soldering gun since about 1972
when I built a Heathkit HW 16. The K1 took me just under 30 hours with the
4-band filter board and the ATU. I'm contemplating building a K2 (I'm
finding building is addictive -- they should call it Ele-crack) and I'm
I just made an alteration to my K2/100 that I have been contemplating
for a while. I removed the top and side panels, then countersunk the
screw holes. ... I have to wonder why Elecraft used flathead screws
on the top and side surfaces of the K1, and didn't on the K2?
Having just completed
The only antennas I have experience with are dipoles and commercial
multi-band verticals. When I built my K1 I took the manual at its word and
strung 30' of hookup wire around the room and shoved one end in the antenna
socket and got 1.2:1 or better on all bands with the ATU. So I got ambitious
I'm going to order a K2 but am trying to spread the cost out over some
period of time. Is there any advantage to ordering the K2 and the KPA100 at
the same time? That is, am I going to run into places in the instructions
for building the K2 where it would be advantageous to have the KPA100 kit
One good source is eBay.
K2 #568 with KSB2, K160RX, KAT2, KIO2, KBT2, and KNB2 and firmare 2.01 went
for $650. The auction ended early because the buyer took advantage of the
seller's buy it now price. It probably could have sold for more given that
it sold in less than a day at that price.
K2
In building the base kit I experienced only 3 problems:
The third problem was that I mis-identified two diodes and
inadvertantly swapped them.
My best investment was a pair of clip-on magnifying lenses that I clip on my
reading glasses when I'm building. Some of those diodes are tiny and
We are pretty well down to the wire on the rooms.
There are still rooms available at the QRP-ARCI/FISTS
hotel - the Holiday Inn / Homewood Suites in Fairborn,
east of downtown Dayton.
The room information is
http://www.usol.com/~k8dd/rooms/rooms.htm
There are a few more rooms than the
The jumper on P3 should be in the KAT1 position when the KAT1 is in use.
This is in the errata for page 7 of the KAT1 instructions.
Craig
K1 #1966
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Robert Conley
Sent: Thursday, March 24, 2005 10:36 AM
To:
I don't have the temperament to sit down at a bench and build an
electronic device
In addition, I like the idea of supporting the traditions of ham radio
by patronizing kit makers and kit builders, rather than appliance
manufacturers.
Let me offer the advice you didn't ask for, since
In any case, whenever anyone gets incorrectly rejected as SPAM by the list
server, just email a copy to [EMAIL PROTECTED] with a short
note
and we will post it for you.
Not to belabor the point but we should be happy that the list tells you your
post is spammy so you have a chance to try
Eric posted the instructions to subscribe and unsubscribe just a few
days ago.
Yes, but did he post the instructions to unSUNscribe? I think that's where
the confusion lies.
Craig
NZ0R
K1 #1966
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Post to:
I know this has been discussed on the reflector, but I can't find it in
the archives after a bit of searching. I have the RS equivalent of the
Koss Ear Plugs which work great on my KX1 for an old guy who can't hear
any more. However, I can't get them into my ears so they'll stay for
any
Is there a specific reason why some of you folks don't have your email
software adding the quote characters
For the vast majority of my email, especially business correspondence, I
prefer to keep the entire conversation intact. It's only on mailing lists
like this one where one has to be
Anything over $1500/US and I'm afraid I will have to count myself out.
Wonder what others think?
My other hobby is flying my Beech Baron light twin airplane. The numbers you
guys are tossing around sound like cheap entertainment by comparison. :-)
Craig
As for the radio being in a kit form, that is actually a HUGE selling
point, regardless of the time and effort required to build it since
all hams that I have met so far would really love to be able to build
their radios instead of buying a ready made appliance, provided that
the result
Since my LASIK, my close up vision has tanked, and before I tackle the K2
I need a really good swing arm magnifier
Skip the fourescent and go for a daylight spectrum bulb in an articulating
arm lamp. I use clip on magnifying lenses that clip to my reading glasses.
For most a lot of the
Every time I see a picture of that OptiVisor head vise torture device I
cringe.
If you're wearing reading glasses for close-up work already then for the
same price this is a significantly better solution:
http://www.wassco.com/mag.html. They're made by Bausch Lomb, they're very
high-quality,
Okay, so is it really time to upgrade my from my C64?
Just kidding.
Actually, if you had a C64 your timing problems would be solved. I wrote a
CW send/receive program for Atari back in the 80's and it worked great.
(6502 processor, same as your Commodore 64.)
The problem (if it exists --
Thanks to all who have responded to the Handedness survey (49) so
far.
Out of 49 respondents, and a world average of 10% left-handers (that
would be 4.9%), it seems my friend might have been right. Either
the fraction of hams who are sort of to really left-handed is
larger than 10%, or
At the risk of inviting hundreds of exhibitors to post ads here on the list,
I'm wondering if it would be possible to get any of you who happen to be
exhibiting anything that we might be interested in at Hamvention to post a
brief description so those of us who are going to be there can make sure
I posted this last Friday when it was fresh but it got rejected due to size
and I just got the bounce message today. Here it is again for those who
care:
I spend a lot of time tapping out text on my cell phone using T9 or
multitap input methods (the latter being where you press 2 once to get A,
No formal announcement of which I'm aware. There are pictures of a prototype,
which others have seen and reported. There may be more info tomorrow.
One side effect of hanging around the Elecraft booth: K2 #4491 is in the bag
ready for the trip home, where it will join K1 #1966.
The K1 will be
It would appear that Yahoo has a Group Snoop feature that may affect you
if you're a member of their groups.
you can read about it at the following URL which doesn't filter content:
http://www.zerobeat.net/webbeacons.shtml
Thanks to Thom for the heads up on this. I guess you can't blame
Like many of you I go to a lot of trade shows for my business, both as an
attendee and as an exhibitor. With this experience in my background I have
to say I was surprised and pleased to see both Eric and Wayne in the
Elecraft booth every time I walked by. I probably visited the booth 10 times
I asked if #5000 was available when I bought #4941 at Dayton and the lady
helping me actually went to the stack of K2 boxes and looked to see if it
was there. I got the impression she would have handed it me if it had been
there. She said she didn't see it. It's possible it's not that big of a
Ah, but I love the retro look of all those knobby screws. Truly a
work of art.
Then why aren't they all knobby?
While the Elecraft radios are very sharp looking compared to other kits,
they look like kits compared to commercially built radios. I'm not
complaining; just saying they're far
My 20 or so QSOs aren't going to take me very far up the results column but
I did contact a very patient Brazilian station with the K1 by shooting 5
watts out of the end of my multiband dipole on 20M. While it's frustrating
to be able to hear stations I can't talk to thanks to the excellent
I bought both a 4-band and 2-band filter board for my K1. I built the 4-band
board for 40, 30, 20, and 15 meters.
I have parts to make the 2-band board either 80/17 or 80/15. I've also
considered the 160/80 option. That's not what's bothering me. Here's the
question:
What's really going to be
Mixing units is not always benign.
September 1999: NASA lost a $125 million Mars orbiter because a
Lockheed Martin engineering team used English units of measurement
while the agency's team used the more conventional metric system for
a key spacecraft operation.
I would argue this
I don't mind awfully much when someone uses QRM or QRN on
phone
Since we're griping and slightly off topic, here's one I ran into over the
weekend:
A lot of people send R (for received) as dit, dah dit, dit, dah dit --
with a gap after the first dit. In the VHF QSO contest, when I'm expecting
I think the same is true for the use of Q-signals on phone.
Instead of saying, There's a lot of QRN today, I think it
makes more sense to simply say, The band is noisy today?
It's simpler to say, and the receiving operator is less
likely to hear QRM instead of QRN. In the end, your
I agree the information is hard to find. The Web site assumes you came there
because you already know what the product is. However, I found good
information in the online manual, which I'll quote here:
Introduction
Every Elecraft K2 internal option kit includes some parts that need to be
You only have to report callsigns on each band. So if you really want to
compact it, drop time and exchg, don't mix bands on one page, and record
only callsigns. IOW, a well-designed dupe sheet is sufficient.
Craig
NZ0R aka N0MA for the weekend
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
As I described in a previous posting, I identified
every part by doing an inventory and placed parts
in a drawer system and marked the corresponding
drawer in the parts list. The time taken doing
this is probably recovered by knowing where
everything is ...
I did that for my K1. When I
How can 'missing' parts be found if everything has been
identified, checked off and catalogued?
Not sure I understand your question. Obviously, everything wasn't found at
the time they were inventoried. Some parts were noted as missing during the
inventory, then found later.
I don't remember
I have built fourteen K2's, four K1's
and four KX1's and have found only one component missing.
Oh and also I
have built a slew of options and never found a part missing.
...
It only takes about an hour to do the inventory and it is
well worth the time spent.
Seems like you contradict
I promised myself I wouldn't add to the noise with daily updates on the
progress of K2 #4941, but after going through Alignment Part II I had to
write to commend Elecraft on their fine work. It's pretty amazing after
making hundreds of solder connections, including some truly tricky stuff
with
I'm in the process of building a K2/100 with the 100W ATU. I have the K2
done but can't use it on all bands on my crappy antenna without an antenna
tuner. If I build the 100W ATU next I have to buy the KIO2, which I won't
need after I have the KPA100 done. SO if anyone wants to get rid of a
Well, rats. My K2, with antenna tuner, got hit by a nearby lightening
strike. It still works ok, but it's deaf. Where do I start
looking for the zap?
Turn it into your insurance company and buy a new one. Make sure to include
the value of your building time in the price you give them.
Craig
PM, Craig Rairdin wrote:
Well, rats. My K2, with antenna tuner, got hit by a nearby
lightening
strike. It still works ok, but it's deaf. Where do I start
looking for the zap?
Turn it into your insurance company and buy a new one. Make sure to
include
the value of your building time
Seems like unsoldered pins are a popular problem these days.
One of the things I do to avoid this is count as I solder. I expect an 8-pin
IC to have 8 pins to solder so I count them off as I do them. If I stick 14
resistors in, I expect 28 solder joints when I flip the board over. In the
case of
I see no need to count. For all long lead components,
I soldered lots of them in before trimming the leads.
When I started to trim them, I checked if I had soldered
before snipping - caught a few that way.
That works too, and I check as a trim the leads also. This counting
technique is most
I have both a K1 and K2, though I have very little experience with the K2,
having just finished it in the last couple weeks.
One of the issues I'd be thinking about is the difficulty of swapping filter
boards. If you buy a 4-band K1 you can't get 80M or 160M on it. So if you
want those bands
I just picked up an assembled KAT2 from a fellow Elecrafter and note that
it's a couple revs behind the current version. I browsed around the Elecraft
site but couldn't find anything that would succinctly tell me what, if
anything, I would need to do to bring this unit up to the current version.
You should think about supplemental oxygen. You should be OK up to 12,000 ft
or so. If you're experiencing symptoms of hypoxia at altitudes less than
that, some extra 02 would be a good idea.
Craig
NZ0R
K1 #1966
K2 #4941
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL
Like it or not, we are seeing another transition in kit building. Just
as some of us witnessed the transition from tubes to transistors, we
are now seeing the beginning of the transition from parts with leads
to SMT. I would guess that in ten years or so it will be
increasingly difficult
The worse part of building any kit to me is those stinking nasty
torroids, I hate them with a passion.
:-) I've found for the K2 and KPA100 I do the torroids while I'm waiting for
some other time-consuming task. I just got to the page in the KPA100 manual
where you do like 12 torroids all at
I read the entire NPRM. They make their case well, but they ignore some
logical extensions of their arguments.
If the telegraphy requirement is defined simply as demonstrating basic
ability in one mode of communication and is therefore unnecessary becase
skill in other modes is not required, then
Code has been an artificial barrier to entry for a long time. I fought every
attempt to reduce or eliminate code. In the end, the joke was on me. Reducing
it didn't hurt ham radio, and eliminating it will most likely help. Not to
swell our
ranks, but to bring in quality people who will
I sympathize with you, and certainly welcome your contributions to the hobby
and to your local emergency services organizations (as if my welcome were
necessary or even important).
On the other hand, there are concepts on the written test that seemed like
garbage to me no matter how much I
I could never understand those Canadian fists anyway, what with the accent
and all. ;-)
Craig
NZ0R
K1 #1966
K2 #4941
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Subscriber Info (Addr.
We teach our kids at home and I'm looking for an electronics curriculum to
use for science this year. The boys are 11 and 13 years old.
I'd like something that covers the basics of electricity and electronics
that includes some simple projects. In the end I'd like them to be able to
take the
C1 is a regular old brown 103 cap. It's not axial at least as I
understand the word.
It's always possible I'm looking at the wrong part or I got it wrong, too.
But I remember being stumped at the same point you are until I found this
particular capacitor. I think it was in the same envelope with
Thanks to everyone who replied publicly and privately to this request. I got
several good suggestions. None are exactly what I'm looking for but I have a
lot of good resources to draw from now.
Craig
NZ0R
In message [EMAIL PROTECTED], Craig Rairdin
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes
We teach our kids
I picked up a Waters 334 1KW dummy load and wattmeter on eBay last week for
about $100. It appears to work OK -- output from the K2 is about what I'd
expect.
I don't have any other test equipment to speak of short of a DMM. Is there a
way to calibrate this wattmeter without buying another
Finished the KPA100 and installed it in the K2 and I must say I'm
disappointed with the audio quality. It sounds like I'm overdriving the
speaker but the volume isn't near what it was with the original speaker. Is
this normal for the K2? If not, any suggestions on how to make it sound
better?
:
- Original Message -
From: Craig Rairdin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[chop]
I'm not a long-haired, dope-smoking, free-software hippie so if I have to
spend some money for good software I don't mind. (As a professional
programmer I've never understood why the product of my hard work should
Well I have ordered a second k2. my first k2 got hit with lightning
so now I get to repair the first but the insurance is paying for
another cause I don't know if the first is repairable.
I'm curious if insurance covered any cost of building or did they just cover
the cost of the kit? Was
Since this is copyrighted material why don't you do the simple and right
thing and ask the station for permission to use it? If they agree they can
send you the clip in a format you can use. If they don't agree then you
shouldn't use it anyway.
Craig
NZ0R
K1 #1966
K2/100 #4941
- Original
a copy.
Bob
- Original Message -
From: Craig Rairdin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, September 02, 2005 6:18 AM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] RE: K2 Featured in Hurricane News Coverage
Since this is copyrighted material why don't you do the simple and right
thing
Are there any novel and compelling reasons for keeping the
code test?
Since we seem to be opening this topic again, let me repeat something I said
before: The written tests (at least the Extra Class exam) already require
knowledge of the fine details of certain modes, such as the level of
As a new guy, Tom, I was surprised to discover that despite poor
band conditions, the hurricane emergency nets are all using phone.
? Does the availability of power make the difference?
On a related note, I've monitored several of the nets on 40M and 75M each
night this week and I've yet to
I submit that the reason virtually ALL emergency nets are phone is that
CW requires a skill few Hams have today: even routine CW ops.
In the Ham world, using phone means that more operators are available
everywhere, so there are likely more operators available any time and
in any place
The longer we hold onto this myth, the more likely we are going to be
found out by those who regulate ham radio. We need leaders who can
help shape ham radio to fit the current reality, not bemoan the dirth
of skilled CW operators as a problem.
This all wraps around to dropping the Morse
Well, someone else said the quote was taken out of context, though
nobody has provided the context so I don't understand the basis for
that claim.
Furthermore, I spent several minutes searching for a retraction or apology
on the Motorola site and across the Internet and found no reference to
I'm about to launch into building KX1 #1541 which I've had for a while. My
manual is Rev B; I see Rev C is current.
I've searched the Elecraft Web site and can't find a list of changes between
versions of the manual, nor can I find any notes about any modifications
that might be needed to
What's up with this Kynar wire in the KX1 kit? I seem to recall this problem
when building my first KX1. The second one is no better. It's impossible to
strip it without causing it to break - either during stripping or after it's
soldered to the board. My as seen on TV wire stripper just cuts it.
I just finished building a KX1 for a friend and it occurred to me that you
pick up a lot of information about the radio during the build process that
could come in handy as an owner/operator of the radio. Unfortunately this
information is lost if someone else builds your KX1 or if you buy one on
U1 appears to be the wrong part. It should say KX1 1.02.
Craig
NZ0R
K3/100 #25
K2/100 #4941
K1 #1966
KX1 #1499
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Mike KB4WJA
Sent: Saturday, May 02, 2009 9:43 AM
To:
is? I guess I will find out soon.
73,
Mike
-Original Message-
From: Craig Rairdin (via Nabble)
[mailto:ml-user+39229-31982...@n2.nabble.com]
Sent: Saturday, May 02, 2009 11:23 AM
To: Mike KB4WJA
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX1 initial LCD test
U1 appears to be the wrong part
I don't know about two K3's but I can tell you that my K3 was swamped during
Field Day by the phone station operating with a beam pointed away from me,
directly off the end of my dipole, separated by about that 500' distance.
That was CW vs SSB frequency spacing.
We were ok when operating on
I have the K2 cables for the MicroKeyer. The only connection to the K3 right
now is the key. I want to end up with a complete K2 and K3 setup so I'll
either get another MicroKeyer and cables for the K3 or the MicroKeyer II. I
haven't examined the feature list to see what the newer model offers. I
I've never been able to figure out how to send or receive RTTY or PSK with
or without the MicroKeyer.
My normal contest mode is WriteLog talking to the K2 (or now the K3) through
the MicroKeyer with both a keyboard and paddle plugged into the MicroKeyer.
I can use the keyboard or paddle for
Second attempt to send this... I waited an hour and didn't see it come
through. Sorry if you get two copies:
I spent some time shooting a few pictures of my Elecraft gear this afternoon
for people who wanted some size comparisions. There are front, side, and
rear shots of the K2 and K3 and some
It doesn't matter where you are any more. Some of us don't like it either.
If you are assigned a call by the FCC then you'll get one that's in your
correct call area. But if you move or if you apply for a vanity call, it can
be outside your area.
I had an opportunity to get a call containing my
occurred to me (they do sometimes), in order to do A/B comparisons
once I have my K3, can you leave a filter in place, but turn it
'off' via config menu, so the K3 effectively ignores it?
Yes.
The last time I tried this I had to then exit the menu and readjust the
width to get it to
As far as shipping units that had no deposit/full payment
before those that had been partially/fully paidI think
if that has happened in the first batch, it's really shoddy
treatment for those who gave Elecraft financial aid with
their deposits or prepayments.
Let's clarify what
-Original Message-
From: John A. McCabe [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, November 27, 2007 11:56 AM
To: Craig Rairdin
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Shipping Status Update 11/26/07
Craig Rairdin wrote:
As far as shipping units that had no deposit/full payment
For example, is the tuning knob weighted? Does it spin well?
Yes and yes.
Can you adjust the drag on the knob?
You can do this by adjusting its position on the shaft and the degree to
which it comes in contact with the felt washer underneath it.
How is the readability on the display?
'Scuse me, but didn't Elecraft set up a special reflector
for K3 users to discuss their problems directly with
support.
Nope.
There's a separate K3 support email address which seems to light up every K3
engineer on the planet, which is pretty cool. But there's no separate
reflector. There
There will come a time when my K3 will be hard to sell because it has a
low
serial number.
Nonsense. Upgradable radios are equal in functionality regardless of
serial number.
You know that, and I know that, but will you be around to buy my K3?
Craig
NZ0R
The real problem is that after setting the power to exactly
5.0 watts and holidng TUNE, the power reading on 160 meters only
goes to 1.2 watts; when I tap TUNE to exit, VFO B says: ERR TXG.
Similar problems on other banads, to wit: 1.8 Watts on 80m, 1.4
Watts on 40m, 1.9 Watts on 20m,
But it's academic, when my low number k3 lives longer than I do, my estate
will have little knowledge of it's value...and will think more of the time
I enjoyed itrather than how many bucks they can get from it.
And there you have it. The thread has finally looped back to the funny point
Mine was there and very obvious. I removed it when I took the FP board out
of the bag.
Craig
NZ0R
K3/100 #25
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ron D'Eau Claire
Sent: Saturday, December 01, 2007 5:01 PM
To: 'Sanger, Joseph'; 'Gary Bartlett
I think the hardest add-on to do after-the-fact is the transverter interface
KXV3. It requires removal of the KIO3 and the side and bottom panels. Based
on my guess about how the second RX board fits, I think adding the KXV3
might also require removal of the second RX.
I don't have the KDVR3
Just pay the owner directly and have them ship the unit to you when it
comes. There's no need for Elecraft to be involved.
I think it's nuts to just cancel your order when there are people here who
would pay a premium for your position. Put it on eBay. I for one would be
interested to see what it
The program is supported by voluntary donations. I would think if a person
was using it and enjoying it, they'd consider making a reasonable donation.
Craig
NZ0R
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Don Rasmussen
Sent: Saturday, December 08,
-
From: Thom LaCosta [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, December 08, 2007 9:23 AM
To: Craig Rairdin
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3 Positions
On Sat, 8 Dec 2007, Craig Rairdin wrote:
Just pay the owner directly and have them ship the unit to you when it
comes
Message-
From: hank k8dd [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, December 08, 2007 12:38 PM
To: Craig Rairdin
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Positions - Warranty
Craig Rairdin wrote:
The Elecraft warranty isn't specific to the purchaser.
I'm not sure about
You should be fine unless you're storing a copy of the firmware on a floppy
disk near your assembly area. ;-)
Craig
NZ0R
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of David Pratt
Sent: Sunday, December 09, 2007 12:19 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject:
Some builders have suggested that a special tool in needed for some of
the assembly, eg a grabber type to hold screws and washers.
There were only two times when I needed anything other than my fingers to
hold a nut or washer. I was able to use a magnetized screwdriver in one case
and a
BTW: FL1 should be the highest bandwidth and FL5 the most narrow
Other way around, but it actually doesn't matter. Any filter can be in any
slot and the DSP will select the right one as you crank the bandwidth down.
The reason for keeping them in some order is so that when you rotate through
This is just as I suspected, since that's what it says in their warranty.
It's what I've been trying to say throughout this discussion.
Craig
NZ0R
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Don Rasmussen
Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2007 8:24 PM
To:
Message-
From: Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2007 7:35 PM
To: Thom LaCosta
Cc: Craig Rairdin; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Positions - Warranty
We will warranty the K3 for its normal period, regardless of the owner
I purchased an XV50 (6m transverter) and K60XV (60m and transverter
interface option) at Dayton mostly because it's the only thing my K2 doesn't
have. After getting home and thinking about it, I don't think I'm going to
get around to building it before my K3 gets here and I assume I'm going to
There are several pieces of good news here:
1) Delayed gratification is good for the soul. It builds character.
2) More time to wait equals more time to gather and count more change for
more options.
3) Third production run is plenty of time to get all the bugs out. I'll
probably be applying
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