On 10/23/18 11:21 AM, Lee Hart via EV wrote:
If capacity and performance in cold weather are important, that means
providing some way to insulate and heat the battery to keep it up to
operating temperature.
Note that using a battery (both charging and discharging) will heat the
battery be
On 10/23/18 1:11 PM, bvgandhi via EV wrote:
Hi,
I have lately come across a lot of work done on reconfigurable battery packs
which uses the concept of scheduling of battery cells. Instead of oversizing
the battery pack with too many cells and adding additional failure modes,
reconfiguration work
I suppose if you are making a battery using non-matched cells that may
be useful, but it seems like it would be easier, cheaper, and more
reliable to just use closely matched cells and then have a standard BMS
system on each set of parallel cells.
Jay
On 10/23/18 2:13 PM, bvgandhi via EV wrot
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On 06/29/2015 09:08 AM, Matt Lacey via EV wrote:
>> For the case of like a 60 volts to 125 volts for a traction pack
>> for like a scooter.. why do some choose leaf cells ? seems like
>> you have to get a more specialised/ costly BMS like orion. I'v
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Here is the link to the MiniBMS units:
http://minibms.mybigcommerce.com/minibms-cell-module/
You buy the 4.2 volt - LiNMC cells ( Leaf, Volt, etc ) option.
Jay
On 06/29/2015 06:21 PM, ken via EV wrote:
> Is there anohter BMS to use for leafs cells
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http://insideevs.com/nissan-leaf-battery-settlement-get-final-approval/
I hadn't heard much about this class action lawsuit, but apparently
any 2011/2012 leaf owners with less than 9 capacity bars will be
getting a brand new battery, and free access t
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If you are using "GC2" style 6 volt golf cart batteries, they are
usually rated in "minutes" of 75 amp draw (Mine are 107 minutes).
They are rated at 208 AH (if you draw them down over 20 hourswhich
is unrealistic) and can probably deliver 110 or s
I will soon be replacing the lead acid golf cart batteries in my truck
with lithium cells (from a Nissan Leaf).
Currently, the battery boxes are lined with (decaying) 3/16" plywood, as
well as 1/2" insulation foam on the bottom, as well as surrounding the
batteries.
I'm interested in replaci
On 08/06/2015 11:24 PM, EVDL Administrator via EV wrote:
I like epoxy-based spray-in pickup truck bedliner material. (Not the rubbery
glop, but the rock-hard stuff that you mix and apply with an undercoating
gun while wearing a good respirator.) You can apply it right over bare,
clean, degreas
Any reason to use high density (HDPE) or ultra high molecular weight
(UHMW) over the more inexpensive low density (LDPE)?
Jay
On 08/06/2015 09:13 PM, Paul Dove via EV wrote:
Polyethylene
https://www.interstateplastics.com/king-starboard-marine-board.php?searchtext=king%20starboard&kw=king%2
I have seen that when a Lead pack gets older the batteries definately
start to use a LOT more water.
However, it is usually (somewhat) evenly distributed across all of the
batteries/cells. (I did have a situation where one battery used up more
watter than the others, and it was going bad fast
On 08/18/2015 06:08 AM, brucedp5 via EV wrote:
IMO, I would say you have gotten your money out of that old pack, and should
get a new pack so you can continue to enjoy your baby :-)
I agree, using Sams Club batteries I just got 3.75 years of life, and it
looks like my pack of Interstate bat
Did NOT work for me. (and I was logged into Facebook at the time.)
Jay
On 08/23/2015 11:25 AM, Mark Abramowitz via EV wrote:
Worked for me.
Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 23, 2015, at 1:38 AM, EVDL Administrator via EV
wrote:
On 22 Aug 2015 at 19:31, Lawrence Rhodes via EV wrote:
https://vid
cheap enough that I can replace it when I replace the cells next.
Jay
On 08/06/2015 08:40 PM, Jay Summet via EV wrote:
I will soon be replacing the lead acid golf cart batteries in my truck
with lithium cells (from a Nissan Leaf).
Currently, the battery boxes are lined with (decaying) 3/16&qu
On 08/31/2015 05:58 PM, Peri Hartman wrote:
Well, there's a lot of good to say about plywood. It's non conductive,
extremely strong, flexible, won't corrode, won't melt, easy to work
with, relatively light. It burns and rots are it's two drawbacks. You
might not have a rot problem any more s
This story worried me for a bit, as I had just ordered a JuiceBox to
install in Atlanta, GA and am planning on applying for the GaPower $250
rebate.
I went back and double checked the terms of the GaPower rebate form and
it has no "UL Listed" requirement, so hopefully this won't affect those
On 09/22/2015 09:19 AM, EVDL Administrator via EV wrote:
On 22 Sep 2015 at 3:50, brucedp5 via EV wrote:
? Is this a useful product worthy of the co$t, or is it a profitable
feel-good add-on for bragging-rights ?
What it MIGHT do that's potentially at least as useful -- IF you park mostly
i
I now have 45kW of Nissian battery pack in the EV.
Parallel six strings of batteries for 226 volts per string for a total of 199.8
AH.
I'm confused about the number of Leaf modules you have installed. Each
module is two cells and around 8 volts (8.4 max) and 60 AH of capacity.
226 volts
I also just purchased a JuceBox Pro 40. It worked exactly as it was
supposed to, the (android app) is simple but works exactly as it is
supposed to, and when I asked them to send me an invoice via email they
got back to me within 24 hours.
I have not asked any technical questions, but my exper
On 10/16/2015 02:13 PM, Rush Dougherty via EV wrote:
>
> Jay Summet wrote
>>
>> The only downside I see with the JuiceBox is that it is (not yet) UL
> Certified, although they
>> claim to be undergoing that multi-month long certification process now. This
> is disclosed
>> on the website if yo
I've finished building eight "batteries" from my salvaged Nissan Leaf
pack. Each battery is ~16 volts and 180 Ah (3P2S arrangement of modules)
and weights just under 60 lbs. My final pack will be ~128 volts and 180
Ah and weigh under 480 lbs.
You can watch a video of the build here:
https://w
I would recommend staying away from the 2011/2012 leafs for several reason:
1) Parts for the 2013 leaf work with 2014/2015 (and probably 2016).
Between the 2012 and 2013 they upgraded quite a few things (probably
improving most of them).
For example, they moved from using external chargers (
I've taken the J1772 inlet & cable from my salvaged (2013) Nissan Leaf
and am planning on connecting it up to the new charger for my S-10
pickup truck conversion.
It has the standard 5 pins (Hot/Hot/Ground/Proximity/Pilot). The two
hots connect to two large orange wires. The Proximity/Pilot c
lot/proximity lines themselves...)
Jay
On 11/14/2015 10:02 PM, Alan Arrison via EV wrote:
Jay, is the inlet lighted?
Could it be ground returns for LED's?
Al
On 11/12/2015 9:34 PM, Jay Summet via EV wrote:
I've taken the J1772 inlet & cable from my salvaged (2013) Nissan Leaf
an
and newer model years. Not sure if the J1772 wiring involved anything with the
lighting setup.
Tom Keenan
On Nov 14, 2015, at 7:54 PM, Jay Summet via EV wrote:
The charging "bay/door area" on the Leaf is lighted, but that light is in a
different location and separate from the actual
breaker.
Roland
- Original Message -----
*From:* Jay Summet via EV <mailto:ev@lists.evdl.org>
*To:* Electric Vehicle Discussion List <mailto:ev@lists.evdl.org>
*Sent:* Sunday, November 15, 2015 6:08 AM
*Subject:* Re: [EVDL] Extra ground wires on Nissan Leaf J1772 inlet
&a
Yes I did, but I'm afraid I already sold it to Bill Dennis.
Jay
On 11/15/2015 11:01 AM, Paul Wallace via EV wrote:
Jay,
did you have a Chademo connector that survived the crash? I've been looking
for one for my S10.
thanks,
Paul Wallace
___
UNSUBSC
I'm upgrading my charger, and the new charge controller supports j1772
signalling (and I have it working with a j1772 inlet).
But, it also supports 4 user selectable profiles via a rotary switch, so
I could program one of the profiles to NOT use j1772 signalling and
assume the input is 120 vol
The PFC chargers uses a 4 wire input which is RED Phase 1, Black Phase
2, White Neutral and Green ground. All four wires are use for 250/125
volts. The Black, White and Green is use for 125 volts.
Unfortunately, my chargers are dual voltage and only use 3 wires, L1/N,
L2, and ground, so I can
Its use would also be an ice-head familiar inlet for them to understand and
use when the EV is under their care ("Yea, just keep it plugged-in to
protect the battery, while you wait for the parts to come in ... [keeps pack
from bricking] ).
Yes, that is exactly the type of thing that I'd lik
I just sold the main body of my salvage Nissan leaf, so aside from a few
small items I have listed on ebay, I have finished recovering costs by
parting out the car after removing the battery.
My final out-of-pocket cost was ~ $28 per module or $1344 for the entire
battery pack.
Details here:
Here is the specific circuit I have designed.
http://s9.postimg.org/ikp4miuhb/inlet_schematic.png
I would like any feedback on the above schematic. (Note that it only
shows the 240 volt power from the J1227 and 120 volt power from the RV
inlet, the Prox/Pilot lines from the J1227 are connected
wire
to steal copper, and it also wouldn’t allow me to sell the portable J1772.
Jay
On 11/21/2015 09:05 PM, Haritech (Gmail) wrote:
Any reason not to just use a J1772 portable charger?
Lawrence
On Nov 21, 2015, at 13:57, Jay Summet via EV wrote:
Here is the specific circuit I have de
On 11/22/2015 01:06 PM, Lee Hart via EV wrote:
tomw via EV wrote:
I did something similar to this, only using 240VAC rather than 120VAC. I
have both NEMA 14-50 and J1772 power inputs to the charger. I used this
DPST relay with 240VAC coil to switch between them:
http://www.onlinecomponents.
I have some leftover steel mounting plates that came out of a 2013
Nissan Leaf battery. There are 4 base plates and 4 top plates.
Each set of base/top plate will hold two "stacks" of Nissan leaf modules.
I have the long bolts that would allow you to make two plates of 4x
modules (2 stacks of
I've completed the (mechanical) portions of mounting a J1772 inlet, 15
amp inlet, and control buttons/dials behind a flip up license plate for
my S-10 conversion.
A writeup with pictures is located here:
http://www.summet.com/blog/2015/11/29/s-10-ev-new-j1772-and-120-volt-charging-inlets/
A
On 11/30/2015 04:09 PM, brucedp5 via EV wrote:
[ref
http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/S-10-air-dam-J1772-inlet-behind-flip-up-license-plate-tp4678948
S-10 air dam, J1772 inlet behind flip up license plate
]
I think you did a great job.
Perhaps later you may want to ad
Even if the electronics are fried, the cord/gun could be connected up
with an Open EVSE type kit to make a new one and retain a lot of the value.
Jay
On 12/10/2015 09:44 AM, EVDL Administrator via EV wrote:
On 9 Dec 2015 at 23:55, brucedp5 via EV wrote:
IMO your drowned-(its dead Jim)-EVSE .
I have successfully driven my S-10 Electric Pickup conversion powered by
48 modules from a salvaged Nissan Leaf battery pack. I have them wired
in series, 16 sets of 3 parallel modules, providing 128 volts with 180Ah
capacity (23 kWh).
It took me a full three days of work to make the swap and
On 12/29/2015 02:40 AM, Ing. Marco Gaxiola via EV wrote:
>Wow, only 10volts sag on a +41kw (+350amps times 118volts) of power,
that is pretty amazing!!
Well, the pack is nominally 128 volts, but it was fully charged to 131.4
volts when I started, so say 13-14 volts sag...but yes, I was impr
If your battery boxes are a bit deeper than mine, and you can put the
leaf modules in vertically you should be able to fit them. However, if
they are sized for 12 lead acid batteries, you may have difficulty
getting all 48 leaf modules in.
I put all 48 leaf modules in the space that was forme
Having upgraded my charger as part of my truck battery upgrade, I am now
left with two chargers suitable for a 120 volt lead acid pack that I
don't plan on using again.
I haven’t bothered to remove them from my S-10 (they sit behind the seat
in the cab, and the new charger is mounted in the ol
I want to charge at maximum current to 80%, and then shut off. My
thoughts on this subject are listed as text below, or you can follow
this link to see the images of my charging profiles:
http://www.summet.com/blog/2016/01/03/default-charging-profile-charge-to-80-capacity-quickly/
I welcome an
I purchased a TSM charging package for $1200 (shipped) that included
dual TMS2500 (AKA CH4100) chargers and an EVCC for my S-10 truck.
Summary: I've been quite happy with the solution for a low cost and
reasonable performance (4-4.2kW) charger system. (For more money you can
get higher capacit
I've published a writeup and pictures of upgrading my S-10 conversion
from 20 six volt lead acid golf cart batteries to 8 custom batteries I
built out of 48 Nissan Leaf modules. (6 modules per "battery").
You can see the pictures and writeup here:
http://www.summet.com/blog/2016/01/03/lead-acid
Has anybody ever melted the plastic and holder of an Automotive ATC
fuse, without blowing the fuse itself?
I had a cheap AutoZone in-line fuse holder with a 30 Amp fuse on the 12
volt line between the DC-2-DC and accessory battery, and today one side
of the holder and one side of the fuse melt
On 01/04/2016 09:59 PM, Lee Hart wrote:
Jay Summet via EV wrote:
Has anybody ever melted the plastic and holder of an Automotive ATC
fuse, without blowing the fuse itself? Impressively melted photos here:
http://www.summet.com/blog/2016/01/04/melted-fuse-leg/
Two possibilities occur to me
On 01/04/2016 11:49 PM, Ing. Marco Antonio Gaxiola via EV wrote:
Jay,
The other reason I believe why those fuse melted at 30Amps even
though they state like, is because in their original automotive application,
usually are under temporarly loads such power doorlocks , power windows,
ci
On 01/05/2016 12:41 AM, Roland wrote:
Hello Jay,
Use a Bussman Fustron or better a Bussman Limitron fuse.
I have those on the 128 volt (pack voltage) side of things.
I guess I could use one for the 12 volt (accessory voltage) side, but
they take up a lot of extra space when compared to an a
paid for.
>
>sean
>
>On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 10:18 PM, Jay Summet via EV
>wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> On 01/04/2016 09:59 PM, Lee Hart wrote:
>>
>>> Jay Summet via EV wrote:
>>>
>>>> Has anybody ever melted the plastic and holder of an Aut
;30A.
>
>Cheers
>-Ben
>
>On Jan 3, 2016, at 9:28 PM, Jay Summet via EV
>wrote:
>
>> I want to charge at maximum current to 80%, and then shut off. My
>thoughts on this subject are listed as text below, or you can follow
>this link to see the images of my charging p
I have obtained a surplus fuse, new old stock.
Buss JKS 400
Bussman Limitron
Quick-Acting
Current-Limiting
FUSE
JKS 400
Class J Fuse
Interrupting Rating
200,000 amp. rms sym.
600v or less A.C.
I was wondering if it would be suitable to act as a mid-pack fuse on my
128 VDC LiIon Leaf Module
at 1/4th of its AC
>
>voltage rating. So in Jay Summet's case, his 600vac fuse is OK at
>150vdc.
>
>> On 1/7/2016 8:50 PM, Jay Summet via EV wrote:
>>> I have obtained a surplus fuse, new old stock.
>>>
>>> Buss JKS 400
>>>
>>>
On 01/08/2016 12:36 PM, Rick Beebe via EV wrote:
On 01/07/2016 01:51 AM, Seth Rothenberg via EV wrote:
I would like to hear what people are doing for L2 charging at home?
I'm using a JuiceBox Pro 40 (amp) box that costs $599 and comes with
wifi networking and a web based console + phone a
I have luckily never steamed/cooked a golf cart battery, but in the two
packs of golf cart batteries I have had, there was always one battery
that failed "first".
I have a (now no longer available for purchase) PakTrakr system that
reports on the voltage level of each battery, and this was ver
Yes, the LeafSpy app (costs $15 for the pro version, or you can get the
free trial version) on an android device that supports BLUETOOTH paired
with a BLUETOOTH OBDII dongle is the way to go.
Jay
___
UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#us
I recommend buying an entire wrecked car from an auto insurance auction.
That way you know why it's being sold (car wrecked, not due to
problems with the battery).
In many cases, if you can get the 12 volt system to power up you can
plug in a bluetooth OBDII interface and use LeafSpy to talk
On 01/11/2016 08:00 PM, Cor van de Water via EV wrote:
It also appears that EMW has now UL-certified its products,
seeing that they are awarded contracts under CPUC's DRAM with all 3
investor-owned utilities:
http://emotorwerks.com/component/content/article/89-emotorwerks/emotorwe
rks-company/m
With the introduction of multiple good options in the retail market
(leaf volt, bolt soon, bmw, tesla and other minor players) I agree that
buying a new or used EV is a much better value proposition than
converting a car.
The only places where I can see a conversion having value are:
1. To ge
On 01/13/2016 09:07 AM, Robert Bruninga via EV wrote:
... buying a used Leaf is a great solution...
... I have always liked the prospects of truck conversions.
Is that like hacking the rear of the Leaf to add a truck bed?
Or hacking a truck to install the Leaf drive?
When I bought my wrecke
For anybody searching later:
I ended up buying a Shawmut A25X400, 400A fuse which is a direct
substitute for the Littelfuse L25S-400 by the controller.
I also purchased a pair of Littelfuse LSCR001 400A 1000V Fuse Holders to
mount it.
Jay
On 01/07/2016 08:50 PM, Jay Summet via EV wrote:
I
On 01/13/2016 04:01 PM, via EV wrote:
BTW, the target price for the finished car is $150,000 (recommended by the
business advisors). No money to be made building these and selling them for
less than that. If this doesn't work I'll still have a nice and unique EV
sports car for a fraction of
On 10/01/2016 08:34 PM, Cor van de Water via EV wrote:
I have reported before that almost 20 years ago I visited MDI in France,
who were supposed to release an air-powered car. I checked their physics
and came to the conclusion that without heat exchanger, their efficiency
would be horrible and
On 12/22/2016 10:29 AM, EVDL Administrator via EV wrote:
On 22 Dec 2016 at 10:10, Robert Bruninga via EV wrote:
A software glitch in the THINK CITY made the mistake of leaving the 4
kW heater possibly on, so that on the third step above, the 4kW is
trying to go through a 5W 47 ohm resistor a
On 12/25/2016 07:14 PM, EVDL Administrator via EV wrote:
On 25 Dec 2016 at 14:56, Cor van de Water via EV wrote:
The source I was reading said that to keep the rates low, many Spanish homes
have a total capacity of just 3.3kW! (
You'd have to upgrade a 3.3kW home to at least 4.4kW
and mo
Jay
Sent: Tue Dec 27 09:29:39 EST 2016
Subject: Blown HV fuse reasons?
Driving my S10 conversion the America kit I stepped on the gas while crossing a
road and heard a pop. Navigated to the side of the road and it looks like my
high voltage fuse has blown.
I have had twenty thousand mil
Subject: Blown HV fuse reasons?
Driving my S10 conversion the EVAmerica kit I stepped on the gas while crossing
a road and heard a pop. Navigated to the side of the road and it looks like my
high voltage fuse has blown.
I have had twenty thousand miles on this fuse so far. No changes recentl
this means that my Curtis controller is shorted open but if anybody
could confirm if this test is valid or not at 12 volts with no load other than
a multi meter that would be appreciated.
Jay
On December 27, 2016 9:57:27 AM EST, Jay Summet via EV
wrote:
>
>
>
>Subject: Blown HV
Thanks for the suggestions. I was able to test the controller and it
lights/controls the light bulb correctly under high voltage.
Unfortunately, this probably means I have a motor short It measured
0.1 ohms, which seems a bit too low for an FB1-4001A.
Jay
On 12/27/2016 10:49 AM, EVDL Ad
Today my HV fuse blew, and after testing my controller, I believe the
problem is that my 9" FB1-4001A DC motor is shorted. The motor leads
are measuring at 0.1 ohm right now.
Anybody have suggestions as to anything to look at/for before I start
the process of removing the motor?
I may also
f arcing on the
commutator?
-Ben
On Dec 27, 2016, at 1:13 PM, Jay Summet via EV
wrote:
Today my HV fuse blew, and after testing my controller, I believe
the problem is that my 9" FB1-4001A DC motor is shorted. The
motor leads are measuring at 0.1 ohm right now.
Anybody have suggestions
On 12/27/2016 02:42 PM, EVDL Administrator via EV wrote:
On 27 Dec 2016 at 14:31, Jay Summet via EV wrote:
I'm a little hesitant to suggest this since there's some hazard from molten
copper snot if it lets go, but you might try replacing the fuse with a small-
gauge copper wire --
On 12/27/2016 05:55 PM, EVDL Administrator via EV wrote:
On 27 Dec 2016 at 16:41, Jay Summet via EV wrote:
I used a 18 ga lamp cord in place of the fuse and tried to spin the
motor in neutral.
Try a larger wire. Remember that 1400+ amp starting surge.
You might also try "pre-spi
On 12/29/2016 05:42 PM, Robert Bruninga wrote:
If its a DC motor, Try a 12v car battery and jumper cables to test the
motor.
I've verified that the motor still turns (can push the truck with the
transmission in gear) so I'm going to look at the brushes first and if I
don't see anything wro
On 12/30/2016 12:32 AM, Roland wrote:
Hello Jay,
Another test you can do, is take a ohm reading at the motor terminals.
Rotate the motor by hand and see if the meter shows a pulse as it
rotating.
As I rotate the shaft by hand, the ohm meter goes negative (I assume due
to current/voltage be
;t have been overheated, but it may have gotten stressed by
longer drives I'd done earlier in the week
Jay
On 12/31/2016 11:56 AM, Lee Hart wrote:
Jay Summet via EV wrote:
As I rotate the shaft by hand, the ohm meter goes negative (I assume due
to current/voltage being generated by the
When I ran the motor off a 12 volt battery it was fine. I'll try
installing a spare fuse and see what happens after I put things back
together.
Jay
On 12/27/2016 02:42 PM, EVDL Administrator via EV wrote:
On 27 Dec 2016 at 14:31, Jay Summet via EV wrote:
I really don't want
On 12/31/2016 02:22 PM, Willie wrote:
On 12/31/2016 12:48 PM, Jay Summet via EV wrote:
When I ran the motor off a 12 volt battery it was fine. I'll try
installing a spare fuse and see what happens after I put things back
together.
I once blew a main fuse on my conversion. Didn&#
I'm in the market for a DC motor controller, 144V system (133 v max
LiIon), 400+ amps.
A Curtis 1231C would be a drop in replacement, but since that's the one
that blew I'm also willing to replace it with something else.
Will consider new or used.
Jay
For those of you following the drama:
A few days ago my main HV fuse blew.
I used a lightbulb to test the Curtis 1231C controller and it was able
to control the bulb when I pressed on the throttle, so I thought it
might be a problem with my motor or wires. After I checked out the motor
and wi
Thanks for all the suggestions.
I have sent a message to the seller of the used Kelly controller on
EVTrading post as that appears to be the best option available right
now. I like the fact that it is smaller than the current controller
(will fit in the same place) and also offers regen as an
It ain't easy to fix the Curtis 1231C, but it is possible (I've done
it). A lot depends on just how much damage was done when it failed. It
might be worse opening it up to take a look. If not too badly damaged,
get it fixed.
I've been doing a lot of reading about that today ;>
I feel that I
On 01/04/2017 02:54 PM, Jack Wendel via EV wrote:
I just purchased a used Yale order picker electric forklift
1) What are my options for battery replacement?
It sounds like you could use 4x 6 volt golf cart batteries (if they
would physically fit) or 2x 12 volt deep cycle / solar storage /
I just noticed something else to note...
2) Charger. The charger is a Hobart model 1R12 - 550 that is a large box.
The tag has the following data:
Specs: 5061C - 1
No. Circuits: 1
Battery type: LA
Cells: 12
AH: 451 - 550
This charger is listing the AH of the battery it expects to charge.
(4
Sure sounds like you have a 24 volt battery made up of 12 individual lead acid
cells.
I would suggest you check the voltage on each cell, if they are low then you
have identified the ones that need work.
If all of the individual cells behave about the same then your whole battery is
probably
I visually inspected my motor brushes as part of diagnosing why my HV
fuse had blown, and they looked fine, but I am wondering how much life I
have left in them.
The backs are currently extending past the end of the brush guides by
about 4.5mm. I didn't pull them out, so I don't know the full
can unleash my lead foot without knocking out
the controller ;> I'll let the list know what I'm up to when I start
that project, but it will probably be a while as I have other priorities
right now.
Jay
On 01/01/2017 01:56 PM, Jay Summet via EV wrote:
For those of you followin
On 01/08/2017 09:46 AM, brucedp5 via EV wrote:
So, instead of queuing to work on repairing or upgrading your dead cursit, I
suggest you line up a robustly-designed controller to purchase when this,
your replacement cursit, dies (start saving your money now, and don't spend
any $ on your dead cu
Ok, curiosity got to me and I decided to open up my failed Curtis 1231c.
The 8 screws on the bottom were only covered with two little rubber
plugs (no potting compound) which is different from what I'd read about
online. I removed them.
I then used a razer to cut all around the "front panel"
On 01/08/2017 01:50 PM, Lee Hart wrote:
Jay Summet via EV wrote:
Ok, curiosity got to me and I decided to open up my failed Curtis 1231c.
The 8 screws on the bottom were only covered with two little rubber
plugs (no potting compound) which is different from what I'd read about
onli
On 01/08/2017 04:46 PM, Jan Steinman via EV wrote:
On 2017-01-08, at 13:04, via EV wrote:
Warranty void if seal broken
You can get 250 of these for $4.99 on evilBay!
I’d guess anyone who was re-furbing controllers would have their own supply.
It's certainly possible, but all of the comp
I've opened it up and found (at least) two MOSFETS blown out right near
the logic board.
Photos and lots of text here:
https://www.summet.com/blog/2017/01/08/curtis-1231c-8601-500a-pwm-dc-motor-controller-teardown/
But I did find something funny...
One MOSFET on the power board (Q13) is dif
On 01/08/2017 01:37 PM, Lee Hart wrote:
Sounds like what you need is a bypass contactor. This is an extra
contactor that simply switches *full pack voltage* to the motor. Engage
the bypass contactor with a switch that closes when you floor the
accelerator.
But there's one caveat. You must
Thank you! It has been confirmed that the first MOSFET is used as a
power regulator, and it's OK that it's different from the others.
Jay
On 01/11/2017 12:33 AM, VA7DVR wrote:
PS this is what mine looks like and I forgot to say that the first one
in the chain is different on mine to. Mine has
Happy to hear from anyone else that found an available diode or an
external solution.
Jay Summit found a Diotec diode that appears to be a correct
replacement. See diotec.com and search for "tab mount" rectifiers. Their
MR2406FR, DR3506FR, and DR7506FR appear to be drop-in replacements if
you
On 01/12/2017 12:00 AM, Lee Hart wrote:
Jay Summet via EV wrote:
I have been researching replacement parts for my Curtis 1231c power
board a lot tonight. All of the parts and numbers are listed at this
blog post:
https://www.summet.com/blog/2017/01/11/curtis-1231c-replacement-power-board
I tested one of my original Curtis 1231C didoes, as well as one of the
replacement diodes I bought to replace them (see summary results below).
Questions for people with more experience:
1. The maximum amperage I could generate on my bench power supply is 3.2
amps. Is that enough amperage to c
On 01/20/2017 08:27 PM, Jan Steinman via EV wrote:
From: Jay Summet via EV
I tested one of my original Curtis 1231C didoes, as well as one of
the replacement diodes I bought to replace them ... from DIOTEC,
specifically their DR7506FR model (the R at the end means ?Reverse
Polarity?, making
On 01/22/2017 12:46 PM, nicklogan via EV wrote:
BTW, I didn't know that Battery Recyclers of America will pick up
your FLA batteries for free. Just have to palletize them.
I've been able to sell my used FLA batteries on craigslist for $40 each
to people who want them for off-grid s
On 01/23/2017 10:07 AM, Ed Blackmond via EV wrote:
Is anyone trying to reverse engineer the handshake between the
Leaf BMS and the rest of the car?
I am interested in learning how to reset the capacity gauge. Cor
replaced the battery cells in my 2011 Leaf about 2000 miles ago.
LeafSpy now rep
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