n to
get those banjo bolts loose though.
On Dec 27, 2016 11:55 AM, "Holland Phillips"
wrote:
After seeing the pics, it occurred to me that possibly a "crows foot"
socket on the appropriate extension might be helpful? Just a thought. I
replaced both the pumps on my '92, bu
After seeing the pics, it occurred to me that possibly a "crows foot" socket on the appropriate extension might be helpful? Just a thought. I replaced both the pumps on my '92, but don't recall which tools were required, which usually means it wasn't a big deal. On Dec 27, 2016 08:46, Larry Velez
I have one of those I purchased due
> to the sockets getting stuck on the plugs in my 16v.
>
> On Nov 27, 2016 11:47 AM, "Holland Phillips"
> wrote:
>
>> I would try super glue gel (Loctite is probably the best) applied to the
>> inside of the socket that belong
I would try super glue gel (Loctite is probably the best) applied to the
inside of the socket that belongs to the rubber piece. Thoroughly clean the
inside of the socket with brake cleaner first and let it dry. Put the
socket firmly on to the plug/rubber piece and let it cure for a while.
On the ex
I seriously doubt your spongy pedal is due to a problem with the
proportioning valve. If you haven't replaced all the flex hoses recently, I
would replace them with stainless braided hoses. They have become much more
cost effective in recent years, and the increase in pedal feel is
remarkable. If t
Larry,
Thank you for not transitioning the whole 16V online existence to Facebook.
I left Facebook some time ago for multiple reasons, and prefer not to go
back. And as you know, the email list belonged to me for a number of years,
and therefore it has some sentimental value. I will continue to int
You really need both. Sometimes there are tough spring clips that require
metal to release, other times you're dealing with fragile materials on door
panels, etc.
I forget the names of the companies that sell those types of tools, but
Google is your friend. 😊
~Holland
On Aug 1, 2016 12:44, "Larry
Gee, Matt, I never knew you were from the UK! (tyre)😊
~Holland
On Jul 29, 2016 10:03, "'Matthew Yip' via MK2-16v"
wrote:
> These dollys are very similar to those found at Harbour Freight with the
> exception that the Amazon version doesn't have the tyre "catch fence" on
> either side of the dol
fuel
> splashing into the main fuel pump reservoir.
>
>
>
> How would I test the main fuel pump out of the car – have it pump from a
> fuel canister and back to the same fuel canister?
>
>
>
> -Larry
>
>
>
> *From:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2
rly before messing up the banjo connections on the main fuel
> pump which led to this main fuel pump restoration.
>
>
>
> -Larry
>
>
>
> *From:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] *On
> Behalf Of *Holland Phillips
> *Sent:* Tuesday, July
Which "main" fuel lines are you concerned about? Transfer pump to main
pump, main pump to fuel distributor, distributor to injectors? They're sort
of all "main" fuel lines.
~Holland
On Jul 26, 2016 13:54, "Larry Velez" wrote:
> Hi 16ervs,
>
>
>
> In my glacial pace to fix my fuel delivery issue
Nice motor! Always wanted to do something like that with mine. But
California would have had my ass.
~Holland
On Jul 18, 2016 7:01 PM, "Larry Velez" wrote:
> http://kansascity.craigslist.org/cto/5683922977.html
>
> (no association with the ad, just ran cross it.)
>
> --
> You received this mess
lland,Years ago, I attended the Monterey Historics when Porsche was the featured marque. You are right, watching and listening to those vintage Porsches go around the track, the sound is incredible. On Wed, Jul 13, 2016 at 7:25 PM, Holland Phillips <hollandphillips@gmail.com> wrote:Wowzers! If you
nesday, July 13, 2016 1:37 PM
>> *To:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
>> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] CoPart
>>
>>
>>
>> I once had a 92 cabriolet. It wasn't my favorite MK1. Although it was
>> probably the least problematic of all the MK1s I'd owned in t
gt;
> On Jul 13, 2016 10:33 AM, "Les Noriel" wrote:
>
> I've never heard of Copart. Apparently they're being auctioned. Is it
> similar to eBay motors? Or is it asset liquidation site?
>
> Les
> On Jul 13, 2016 9:32 AM, "Holland Phillips"
> wro
If it were me, I would fabricate a new reservoir out of 6061. It would
require TIG welding, but the fix would be permanent. As you mentioned, the
other options would be much more expensive, or have the potential for being
problematic.
~Holland
On Jun 11, 2016 19:09, "Denis Goldman" wrote:
> Plas
That list truly begs the question - What constitutes a classic car?
#1 - Honda CRX? Really?
#2 - Datsun 240Z? Getting there, especially the 1970 models with manual.
#3 - Alfa Romeo 105/115, also known as the GTV. Also getting there. Had 2
friends in high school, ones Mother had a '66 1600, the othe
Until you figure out exactly what's going on, I strongly suggest that you
don't use 5th gear. It may be your shift linkage needs a rebuild, and
possibly engine and transmission mounts. If that's the case, the
transmission may not be going all the way into 5th, and allowing it to pop
out of gear cou
On May 29, 2016 10:00 PM, wrote:
> Until you figure out exactly what's going on, I strongly suggest that you
> don't use 5th gear. It may be your shift linkage needs a rebuild, and
> possibly engine and transmission mounts. If that's the case, the
> transmission may not be going all the way into 5
As I recall, the cylinder or thick side goes down, or attaches to the car
body. The piston attaches to the hatch.
~Holland
On May 6, 2016 12:11, "Steven Arguello" wrote:
> Scored a new pair of hatch struts, the instructions only say to install
> the same way the old ones were. I don’t trust the
Sorry, I just got this and had to share.
And yes, I have a lot of email addresses, some of which are over 25 years old...
-- Forwarded message --From: Holland Phillips Date: Apr 26, 2016 08:01Subject: Fwd: Does your toilet glow?To: fasterthan...@pacbell.netCc:
~Holland
one allowing for camber adjustment. Torque nuts with
> 19mm hex head to 59 ft. lb. and torque the 18mm hex head to 70 ft. lb. Any
> VW dealer with a decent parts department old timer (if there are any left!)
> can help you out. Both of them have a VW part numberJack
>
> On
Well, you have some issues. Your front camper is way off side to side. From
the factory, it was not adjustable. You can make it adjustable by getting
some special lower strut mount bolts, which will give you some
adjustability. If you change both bolts on each side, you should have about
4 degrees
iable until recently that it's almost funny.
On Monday, April 25, 2016 1:00 PM, Holland Phillips <
hollandphill...@gmail.com> wrote:
Gee Matt, all this time I thought you lived in the U.S.! ;-). Seriously,
California is, and has been from the beginning of the smog era, thanks to
CARB, ju
spections are run by Nazis.
>
>
> On Monday, April 25, 2016 12:31 PM, Holland Phillips <
> hollandphill...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Congratulations! Persistence always pays off in the end. I think most of
> the smog guys these days are so used to the OBD2 cars, that whe
Congratulations! Persistence always pays off in the end. I think most of
the smog guys these days are so used to the OBD2 cars, that when someone
shows up with an older vehicle like yours, it's just a thorn in their
shorts that they don't want to deal with, so they treat you like crap so
you'll ju
Diesel fuel is inherently more stable than gasoline, at least it used to
be. I've heard some stories about the new low sulfur diesel not being as
stable as the old stuff. That said, it seems the main thing with diesel, is
water in the fuel, but I think most current diesel vehicles have water
traps
The "how to" you quoted is probably a little extreme for most of us. It
sounds like the car he was dealing with probably sat for decades. It also
has a glaring no no. Where he says he cranked the engine for 5 - 10 minutes
to verify oil pressure would likely fry the starter. You generally never
want
You could use CarFax, or one of the other services that provide car history
based on VINs. Just a suggestion...
~Holland
On Apr 18, 2016 07:15, "Chad Rebuck" wrote:
> My dad is asking if I can provide a vin report on this car. I know it has
> a rebuilt title and it was in an accident. Anyone o
It may not see any codes until you put some miles on it. If the block has 2
knock sensors, it's a 9A block. The Motronic ECU wants to see both sensors.
The previous owner has left you a real mess. As I said before, I would just
find a test station that offers free retests and go for it. You really
I don't have any kids, but kudos to you Larry for wanting to do the right
thing. I'm a firm believer in requiring comprehensive driver training for
teens. Do they even have driver training courses in public high schools
anymore?
~Holland
My daughter is 14 and will soon start driving (way too earl
t; I guess my iMac is smarter than your Smart Phone!!! 8>{o)
>
> On 4 Apr 2016, at 13:53, Holland Phillips wrote:
>
> Thanks Jack. I can get to the main page of the website, but can go no
> further, since the site is totally not mobile friendly.
>
> --
> You received t
Thanks Jack. I can get to the main page of the website, but can go no
further, since the site is totally not mobile friendly.
~Holland
On Apr 4, 2016 10:45, "Jack Simon" wrote:
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#stainless-steel-hose-clamps/=11u60t3
>
> Begin forwarded message:
>
> http://www.mcmaster.co
McMaster-Carr sells a few different types of stainless hose clamps. I
bought an assortment of clamps of various sizes that were a much higher
quality than those available from the regular auto parts places. I forget
exactly what the specifics were which made them so much better. They were
slightly
As long as you use high quality fuel hose, like Gates, you should be fine.
The only possible issue could be that the factory hose is metric in terms
of ID.
You used to be able to buy factory spec hose by the foot from the
dealership parts department, but that was years ago, before cars became so
mo
I forgot about that first time transfer requirement. I was going to use a
friends address in Calaveras County to avoid having to buy illegal smogs,
but I would have had to have a passed test within 90 days of changing the
registered address of the car. I don't know where you are, but the larger
cit
at impact this could have on smog if im a little off. also not sure if
>> this means my car is having troubles or if my timing light is messed up.
>>
>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GB9yXn61pS8
>>
>>
>> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ld5z8T1qMBU/VvSAHUYZQF
Uh, that was EGR valve, not EYE. Damn auto correct...
~Holland
On Mar 31, 2016 19:56, "Holland Phillips" wrote:
> I've had concerns about the wires you found cut since you mentioned them.
> In CA, on pre OBD cars, they look for hardware and check tail pipe. I had a
> Eu
>>
>> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ld5z8T1qMBU/VvSAHUYZQFI/AOw/TN6T8t9LDnYh-Ek6Nwhyij9PhtpIeLAEQ/s1600/IMG_0583.JPG>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thursday, March 24, 2016 at 10:32:11 AM UTC-7, stevenarguello wrote:
>>
>> I think that your loom
Something else just occurred to me. Does CIS-E have a cold start valve that
mounts into the intake plenum, like the Motronic system? If so, and it's
stuck open, that could flood all the cylinders.
Just a thought.
~Holland
On Mar 26, 2016 13:53, "Denis Goldman" wrote:
> Still trying to get my 16v
Since you've already established that there's fuel in all the cylinders,
that pretty much rules out a stuck injector. I'm more familiar with
Motronic injection, so I can't be very specific on where the problem lies.
Somewhere in the fuel system there must be a pressure regulator. Maybe
check the Be
shboard.
>
> Both were California cars when originally sold.
>
> On Thu, Mar 24, 2016 at 10:37 PM, Holland Phillips <
> hollandphill...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> It's starting to sound like non California cars may not have what I've
>> been referring to as
te it is. im wondering
>> what impact this could have on smog if im a little off. also not sure if
>> this means my car is having troubles or if my timing light is messed up.
>>
>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GB9yXn61pS8
>>
>>
>> <https://lh3
gt;
> I've never seen one until '93 and even then it had to be a late '93...
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Mar 24, 2016, at 6:59 PM, Holland Phillips
> wrote:
>
> My '92 had an amber lindicator that was in the shape of an engine. I used
> to check for
t;
>>
>> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ld5z8T1qMBU/VvSAHUYZQFI/AOw/TN6T8t9LDnYh-Ek6Nwhyij9PhtpIeLAEQ/s1600/IMG_0583.JPG>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thursday, March 24, 2016 at 10:32:11 AM UTC-7, stevenarguello wrote:
>>
>> I think th
I think that your loom is good, I wouldn’t mess with it anymore. The Bentley shows a circle around the signal wire where that ground meets the O2 signal wire instead of a splice and that’s what you have. Maybe check to be sure that there’s no continuity between the ground and the O2 signal spade c
ote:
>>
>> I think that your loom is good, I wouldn’t mess with it anymore. The
>> Bentley shows a circle around the signal wire where that ground meets the
>> O2 signal wire instead of a splice and that’s what you have. Maybe check
>> to be sure that there’s no contin
stevenarguello wrote:
>>
>> The wire you’re touching looks like the O2 signal. In your case it looks
>> like the shield might have been pulled off and ran to ground. (That’s a
>> guess, could be like that from the factory) The red and yellowish (sorry,
>> I’m a little c
; like the shield might have been pulled off and ran to ground. (That’s a
>> guess, could be like that from the factory) The red and yellowish (sorry,
>> I’m a little color blind) are the O2 heater. The 2 whites and the lead with
>> the electrical tape go to the sensor.
>> I
ere’s only one mounting point for a knock sensor on the 1.8, the 2.0
>> has 2. If you have 2 and they’re both mounted to the block then I’d say
>> that the block is 2.0. I know we’ve gone back and forth on this, but I had
>> the exact opposite happen to me my ’88 had a 2.0 (the
7;ve opened them as well but only
> under severe duress because the batteries are now imprinted with all sorts
> of warnings that removing those caps could cause death. Apparently we are
> a society that is intent on thwarting Darwinism...
>
>
> On Monday, March 21, 2016 12:2
groups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Holland Phillips
Sent: Monday, March 21, 2016 11:40 AM
To: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [mk2-16v] Battery Tender Longevity?
You can easily test the charger. Just use a volt meter, and while the charger is plugged in, and conn
You can easily test the charger. Just use a volt meter, and while the
charger is plugged in, and connected to a battery, you should see at least
13.8 volts or so. If you're not reading above 13volts, it's probably not
working.
The Optima charger is a nice piece, but only if you're running AGM type
And just to be clear, the 1.8 code is PL, and the 2.0 is 9A.
~Holland
On Mar 19, 2016 13:27, "Steven Arguello" wrote:
> It says that they’re easily viewed, maybe my eyes are worse than I thought
> because I couldn’t find these.
>
> Finding Engine Letter Codes
>
> The code characters which identi
then I’d say that
> the block is 2.0. I know we’ve gone back and forth on this, but I had the
> exact opposite happen to me my ’88 had a 2.0 (the PO didn’t know) I found
> out when I discovered the second KS.
>
> On Mar 19, 2016, at 3:20 PM, Holland Phillips
> wrote:
>
&
ne code. Instead of moving the
>> accessories, he installed the complete 1.8t from a VW into an Audi TT.
>>
>> At start-up, it fired immediately but idled at 2000 rpms. Why? Because
>> VW had a 1" fitting underneath the manifold that Audi doesn't use. The
>> moral
butor and have someone turn on the ignition for a second. You should
>>> get a really healthy stream of fuel. As I recall, the main pump operates at
>>> around 50psi, give or take.
>>> We're reaching for straws at this point, so the more you check that
>>> looks correct, that's
I would provide the seller with a list of what you need, and make a low
ball offer for the lot. That gives you the best opportunity for
negotiations. If you've ever watched tv shows like American Pickers, that's
the way that seems to work in the favor of the búyer. It's kind of the way
a lot of bus
ke a nice car. My wife’s Mk7 Autobahn grows on me
> every time I drive it.
>
>
>
> -Larry
>
> 91 GTI 16V
>
>
>
> *From:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] *On
> Behalf Of *Holland Phillips
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 15, 2016 1
It would seem that the problems VW is currently experiencing is U.S. based.
VWAG is a huge world wide conglomerate consisting of Audi, Lamborghini,
Bugatti, Siat, and a couple of more I can't think of right now. VW sells a
lot of cars under just the VW name in other countries. While I was living
in
Oh, forgot about that one. But if it was the antenna, the headliner would
be soaked, which would be hard to miss.
~Holland
On Mar 4, 2016 19:40, wrote:
> It could also be the antenna!
>
> *From:* Holland Phillips
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 01, 2016 5:19 PM
> *To:* mk2-16v@g
ke calipers,
but not sure anymore.
~Holland
On Mar 4, 2016 16:37, "Steven Arguello" wrote:
> One of those banjo bolts is a check valve.
>
> On Mar 4, 2016, at 6:38 PM, Holland Phillips
> wrote:
>
> McMaster has metric flange nuts, but the banjo bolts are going to be
> d
McMaster has metric flange nuts, but the banjo bolts are going to be dealer
only. McMaster does carry banjo bolts, but only in sae. I'm sure the sleeve
will also be dealer only, unless you want to buy the proper size metric
steel tubing and cut to fit. McMaster will have metric tubing.
~Holland
On
are question them.
>
> - Matthew -
>
> On Mar 1, 2016, at 18:33, Holland Phillips
> wrote:
>
> You hit the nail on the head. Tim was a self righteous "my way or the
> highway" kind of guy. He basically sunk his own ship because of that
> attitude.
> The mech
new owners who mismanaged it into insolvency.
>
> Tim was an a$$ to me on several occasions. Funny how that works. I can
> imagine how he treated his employees. I'd heard the stories.
>
> He had one mechanic who was excellent but I'd forgotten his name.
> On Mar 1, 2016 5:55 P
ssful sales person while there. Still good memories...
~Holland
On Mar 1, 2016 14:46, "Les Noriel" wrote:
> Good to know.
>
> My brother worked for New Dimensions for awhile. I remember the car shows.
> I bought my TEC 2RS glader for my corrado from Tim.
> On Mar 1, 2
Water in the spare tire well is likely coming from a leaky hatch seal,
especially since there's water around the tail lights. Or possibly the tail
light housing seals themselves. Once you get everything dried out, I would
attack the suspect areas of leaks with a garden hose. Start with the tail
lig
logged fuel lines, failing fuel pump(s) or failing
> injectors could definitely contribute to running issues – I would imagine.
>
>
>
> -Larry
>
>
>
> *From:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] *On
> Behalf Of *Holland Phillips
> *Sent:*
hecked and Marren is still in business and still rebuilding
> injectors of all ages:
>
>
>
> https://www.injector.com/
>
>
>
> https://www.facebook.com/MarrenFuelInjection/
>
>
>
> -Larry
>
>
>
> *From:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@goog
I agree with you Chad. At this point, I would perform a compression test.
If that looks good, then I'm at a loss as to where to go next. Maybe look
at the injectors. It's probably easier and cheaper to try and find some
used, hopefully known good injectors, even if it's only one. Then you could
swa
For a HUGE selection of fasteners, as well as just about anything else you
can think of, try McMaster-Carr
www.mcmaster.com
Those guys have more stuff than you can believe. Back in the day of paper
catalogs, theirs was larger than a NYC phone directory, or three. I used to
spend hours just browsing
Move to California?
No, seriously, I use anti seize on the threaded portion of fasteners that I
don't want to rust, especially if they are likely to need to be removed for
future service reasons. If you're concerned about the heads of the
fasteners rusting, before installation, punch holes in a pie
Since the Mk 2 cars were all pre OBD, they had only one O2 sensor which was
mounted before the cat. So the ECU never knew if the cat even existed or
was functioning properly. Now that I think about it, if the O2 sensor has
no output, or was not connected, the ECU will go into "safe mode", which is
To properly test compression, you have to be able to spin the motor at full
starter motor rpm, meaning fully charged battery, and all spark plugs
removed.
Something occurred to me. Have you replaced the O2 sensor? The Motronic
system is sensitive to proper O2 sensor input to the ECU. I have
experie
Sounds like you've done your homework. I apologize if I over explained too
much, but I wasn't sure of your knowledge/ability. I truly feel your
frustration at this point.
As far as the ECU is concerned, if the engine ran ok, and all you did to
the ECU is to swap in a stock chip, then unless the sto
Okay, on Motronic engines, if the basic timing, as in distributor position,
is correct, the advance/retard function is handled by the ECU. To check the
basic mechanical timing, you have to remove the threaded plug in the top of
the bell housing, which has a plastic cap covering it. It requires a
sp
re is a big vacuum leak somewhere.
> You want to make sure that all the air has to go through the air flow meter
> otherwise the engine will have a hard time running at low rpm but it would
> do better if you held the throttle open.
> On Feb 27, 2016 4:26 PM, "Holland Phillips&qu
> tad higher at that point than the other. is this how aftermarket cams work
>>>> or is it a bad sign that the heights are just a tad different?
>>>>
>>>> also does the chain sound too loose? i see no markings on that part
>>>> and see the shape of
>> have their own part number or can you swap between ok?
>>
>> i saw some instructions for aftermarket cam install that mentioned heat
>> and press/mallet which made me also wonder about chain slack, mine just
>> fall off. not sure if thats how the stock setup
are no marks on the cams to begin with. That sounds
> difficult.
> On Feb 13, 2016 6:02 PM, "Holland Phillips"
> wrote:
>
>> Yikes! No orientation marks on the cams at all? At this point, I would
>> find a set of new or closely inspected by someone knowledgeabl
09:28, "damac2004" wrote:
>>>>
>>>> hmmm, i am still not convinced and found a 1.8 oil pump in it.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> is there a problem with me going with the 2.0 im shaft/gear and its oil
>>>> pump? i
area flush on
>> mydiesel where mated.
>>
>> On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 6:55:11 AM UTC-8, mgyip wrote:
>>
>> Sure sounds like a 2.0l 16v especially because of the 2 knock sensors
>> which were only present on the 91 and later cars - Digifunk for 8v and
>>
;t necessarily throw TEPO (the evil previous
> owner) under the bus though - Volkswagen was/is notorious for having a vast
> spare parts bin that crossed model types and years, throwing together old
> and new model parts when their supply was thin. In 91-92, VW quality was,
> um, not-so-g
do these pictures ring a bell? i can't really make out what that logo is.
>
>
> On Thursday, February 4, 2016 at 7:27:30 PM UTC-8, Holland Phillips wrote:
>>
>> Yes, yes, no, the cams are more than likely Schrick cams. If so, they are
>> extremely high quality German made
ldn't be a bad thing.
On Feb 4, 2016 19:24, Holland Phillips wrote:
>
> Yes, yes, no, the cams are more than likely Schrick cams. If so, they are
> extremely high quality German made performance cams. They are available in
> various duration/lift for both intake and exhaust
rily throw TEPO (the evil previous
>>>> owner) under the bus though - Volkswagen was/is notorious for having a
>>>> vast spare parts bin that crossed model types and years, throwing together
>>>> old and new model parts when their supply was thin. In 91-9
k sensors
> which were only present on the 91 and later cars - Digifunk for 8v and
> Moronic for 16v. I wouldn't necessarily throw TEPO (the evil previous
> owner) under the bus though - Volkswagen was/is notorious for having a vast
> spare parts bin that crossed model types and year
is notorious for having a vast
>> spare parts bin that crossed model types and years, throwing together old
>> and new model parts when their supply was thin. In 91-92, VW quality was,
>> um, not-so-good and their supply was the same.
>>
>>
>> On Monday, February
Well, it's definitely a 9A engine. Whatever else is going on with the internals is a mystery. I would just buy all the replacement parts you need for the 9A and be done with it.
On Feb 1, 2016 14:30, damac2004 wrote:1. yes there is an ecu and it has a techtronics chip in it that says 16v 2.02. i
Good point Steve. There are a bunch of other ways to tell, but they are far
too numerous for me to type on a phone.
~Holland
On Feb 1, 2016 12:58, "Steven Arguello" wrote:
> My 88 GTi came with a 9A 2.0, and the guy who sold it to me never knew it.
> I realized it was a 2.0 when I discovered a s
Does it have a ECU mounted under the plastic tray at the base of the
windshield? The tray covers the windshield wiper motor, and is held on by
some clips. If it does, it's probably a 9A. The 1.8 liter 16V doesn't
utilize an ECU.
~Holland
On Feb 1, 2016 11:59, "damac2004" wrote:
> the chasis is
I don't recall you saying what year your car is. If it's a '91-'92 2.0
liter 16V, the engine designation is 9A.
~Holland
On Jan 31, 2016 11:51 PM, "damac2004" wrote:
> is there some kind of decoder? when i search google i come up with few
> and differing answers. i want to find out what engine
cow. True story!
>
> Holland I remember you once told me you had lived in my old neighborhood.
> Although I'm now in Southern California, My family still lives near
> Piedmont Road.
> On Jan 30, 2016 4:02 PM, "Holland Phillips"
> wrote:
>
>> Ah, My. Hamilton! I lived
re their routes or trails with other riders. Others can
> download the routes to find new trails, race against the OP virtually, or
> notify others of your presence on the trail. It's a great way to find new
> routes. One such app is Strava. Don't know if there is a Strava for car
I've used an app called Waze in the past, but have no idea if it's what
you're looking for. It does allow you to share traffic information in real
time, so maybe it will work for what you're trying to accomplish.
~Holland
On Jan 30, 2016 09:34, "Chad Rebuck" wrote:
> What is the best way to shar
nd 19lbs while a tire added another 10-
> 15lbs. I was shocked to see some aftermarket wheels tilted the scale at
> 30+ lbs!
>
> Today's modern vehicles have wheel and tire combinations that tip the
> scale at over 150 lbs each!
> On Jan 14, 2016 10:33 AM, "Holland Philli
t reduction
>> so it would depend on what your end goal is but generally less unspring
>> weight seems to be “better” (and more expensive per size)
>>
>>
>>
>> Rotational Inertia - Equivalent Mass
>>
>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SR3nVx1aaTo
>>
>
Back when I was building my '92 GTI 16V, I chose BBS RC 16x7.5 wheels
because they were the lightest wheels available at the time. I understood
the physics involved, as in the benefits of lower unsprung weight, less
rotational weight, etc. All these aspects greatly benefit handling,
braking, and ac
As I recall, no. However, I had to replace the whole unit once after a
moron friend of mine somehow accidentally broke the stalk off. Again, as I
recall, it was a fairly simple procedure. So, removing the switch assembly
isn't a big deal, but disassembling it in order to service the internals is
an
x27;t detrimental nor even audible, just
> annoying.
>
>
> On Friday, December 25, 2015 2:07 PM, "jlagn...@massed.net" <
> jlagn...@massed.net> wrote:
>
>
> You can use a mechanic's stethoscope, large screwdriver, large extension,
> or a hose to isolat
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