You can find it here on YouTube, where else!
;) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Z-L8oUTyYY
/Martin
On Tuesday, 25 August 2015 00:18:03 UTC+2, Jon wrote:
For those who can access the BBC's iPlayer, as part of Jim Al-Khalili's
BBC4 programme on the nuclear installation at Sellafield, there
Thanks!
I've added one movie showing the clock running 24 hours in just about 100
seconds, clocked from an oscillator with approximately 1 kilohertz or so,
with all glue logic for a 24 hour clock in
place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rnNHhLAY64U
/Martin
On Monday, 17 August 2015 18:47:54
Yes, direct drive, nothing in between. The design is just like the
schematic I published here on the forum some time back. The only addition
is a few diodes to make it possible to count forwards/backwards plus some
pull-up resistors, but the main design is identical. To connect each stage
to
Hi all,
I've just published three new videos on my Polyatron clock prototype, just
the driving stages and some carry/set logic plus forward/reverse running
yet but i might add the clock logic tomorrow if I have time enough (should
really have spent time on putting up wallpapers in my apartment
There is a clip of that part
here: http://www.aetv.com/storage-wars/video/daves-nixie-tube-clock
/Martin
On Wednesday, 12 August 2015 08:02:34 UTC+2, A. Nonamus wrote:
I saw a nixie clock featured on tonight's new episode of Storage Wars, and
what looked like a shop (possibly a mockup) full
Nice!
Do you have a photo of the side with the rotating switches too?
/Martin
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Yes, it feels good to push down the 26 pin Trochotrons on those sockets,
but the force needed is quite a lot, but not more than new original
sockets. Soldering all of the wires however is a different story as it
takes a lot of time (just as with original sockets).
I've tried those female
I'm not sure what size my pins are as I bought them from different sellers
on Ebay and none had any specification that agreed with the pins they
delivered, it varied a lot!
So if you buy a bunch of pins you'll have to make the PCBs fit for just
those pins, but that is an easy thing to do in
Hi,
While trying to create order from chaos in my hobby room I decided to test
a few of my Nomotrons, the Cerberus DZ10, the STC G10/241E and the Tesla
11TU7 before I was packing them down moving them to my storage room.
I made three short movies and put them on YouTube
here:
I think that you should try to lower the value of the 100k resistor across
the base-emitter of every MPSA92 to say some 10k-22k, they will not be
fully turned off in some instances with the 100k resistor.
Did you use the correct anode pin for the IN-4? Have look
here:
Can you show a photo of the ghosting?
Do you have more than one tube connected when the ghosting appears or just
one?
Have you tried biasing resistors on the cathodes?
/martin
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This is due to the unused cathodes floating, as they are not supplied with
a voltage that ensures that they are turned off - use biasing resistors and
they will turn off.
Have a look at this
thread: http://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/showthread.php?t=82934 where
there is a nice circuit
Also do some tests where you raise the voltage to 200V with a correct anode
resistor as some of the Russian datasheets mentions a minimum anode voltage
via an anode resistor of 200V to get proper function, 180V is a bit low.
You can also try to connect all three of the anodes together, pins 4,
Nice!
How high is an IN-17 nixie or a B5870 compared to the case?
/Martin
On Friday, 5 June 2015 01:47:22 UTC+2, ALS wrote:
Watches from Metro: LL have a very non-standard proportions.
But we can do it ! (but only on LED-matrix)
http://steampunker.ru/blog/usersworks/12758.html
вторник, 2
Looking through Russian literature I can only find circuits which use the
IN-9 in half-wave rectified designs for checking the mains voltage, I
haven't found any circuit with any control of the signal in any other way,
you can see such voltage control pens on this
site:
, and not use an anode resistor. I don't know, I've not tried it
myself, so you're a pioneer. Be sure and tell us how it works out.
On Thursday, March 12, 2015 at 10:18:22 AM UTC-7, Dekatron42 wrote:
Thank you for your answer!
I'll try that as that makes it possible to use either the 74HCT42
I spoke to a vacuum tube designer a few months ago, well into his nineties
now, who told me the same thing. He told me that apart from the glow fading
due to the material used to produce the glow many tubes had a problem with
the cathode not emitting electrons as designed and expected which
Pete, will the cascode circuit work properly as a cathode driver if you use
for instance a 74HCT42 or a 74HCT138 to drive the transistor (they both
have inverted outputs going low when selected), using the collector of the
transistor to drive the cathode of a Nixie?
/Martin
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Hi All,
I am looking for help with buying a neon lamp on Ebay from a seller who
only offers US domestic shipping and who doesn't answer messages.
Please send me a message outside of the forum if you can help me.
Cheers,
Martin
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This has been sorted now and the thread can be closed (if that is possible).
/Martin
On Monday, 23 February 2015 16:08:23 UTC+1, Dekatron42 wrote:
Hi All,
I am looking for help with buying a neon lamp on Ebay from a seller who
only offers US domestic shipping and who doesn't answer
Lovely!
Now you just need to put the numbers side by side, four in a row, and I'd
consider buying one.
/Martin
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I have several where the internal shield with the numbers have come loose
and also some where the metal piece lying under the shield have come loose
so it is rattling. This prevents the tube from working properly unless you
shake it so that things falls back in their original position so I
Thanks!
Now after some more testing I have the RYG10 up and running at 100 kHz (the
limit of the oscillator that I am using right now) but I guess it will run
up to the specified 300 kHz. The driving stage now uses either a ECC960 or
a ECC962 (or their counterparts E90CC/E92CC) as I have a lot
That is most interesting! Thank you for taking the time and effort to show
us this!
/Martin
On Monday, 3 November 2014 18:19:07 UTC+1, taylorjpt wrote:
Pulled the die from one of my ca 2001 LM9022s and it was indeed an LM4871
(Picture later). This makes me think that the LM9022 is a way to
Why not ask TI directly? Anyone here who can do that?
/Martin
On Thursday, 30 October 2014 19:49:35 UTC+1, jrehwin wrote:
The two parts look nearly identical from the datasheets. Since it was
common to simply add an application diagram to an existing datasheet
instead of creating a new
I found this comment over at Texas instruments forum:
The LM9022 (VFD Filament Driver) was a marketing spin of the LM4871
http://www.ti.com/product/LM4871 (3W Audio Power Amplifier)
http://www.ti.com/product/lm4871;
Really nice clock, I wish I had that many Z70Us.
/Martin
On Monday, 6 October 2014 16:09:38 UTC+2, Sgitheach wrote:
Hi
I have been working on a new trigger tube clock that uses the Z700U
trigger tube. This tube has a priming electrode so works in complete
darkness. Results are very
I think that the best thing you can do is to ask the company who replaced
it if they can help you with any schematics, otherwise you will have to
draw one yourself from what you have left of the elevator panel and we can
take it from there, then you will know what voltages you need and you can
Here is a photo of a tube marked 2040 on the glass and 425A5 on the base
http://www.radiomuseum.org/tubes/tube_2040.html , I can't vote for its
authenticity but I have both types but not one with both markings.
I have also scraped away the black paint from 1C21s and they have an
identical
Have a look here: https://www.facebook.com/daliborfarnycom or
here: http://dalibor.farny.cz/ for more information!
/Martin
On Thursday, 16 October 2014 15:20:13 UTC+2, Dman777 wrote:
I wanted to spread the word
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271634824997
No hating on it, please(hold back
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Steve-Wozniak-Signed-Nixie-Watch-/251679728426
/Martin
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Hi Ali,
Sorry for late reply but I tried to find out what lubricants could be used
that would not dissolve the plastic parts, however I have not found any
definite answer. In my clock I removed the extra lubricant that was smeared
across the plastic and put in a small cup and then re-used it
Hi All,
I finally have an LM Ericsson RYG10 coaxial Trochotron up and running,
counting both directions - counter clockwise and clockwise!
Have a look here: http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCO6OM4QT3HjXeLpF3FSlsMA
More details will come, but it might take some time as these are my very
first
I just added a movie where I drive the RYG10 from a variable oscillator and
run it up to 10KHz before my current driving stage reaches its limit. I
also flip the magnet over while the RYG10 is powered up and it then changes
direction as soon as the magnet is back in its correct position.
Just spotted this one: http://makerfaire.com/makers/nixie-rex/
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BOoGuL2HYbk
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I think these bicycle versions are a lot cooler and they have been around
for quite some time now: http://www.monkeylectric.com
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Here's the Russian text and English translation done quickly with Abbyy
Finereader and Google Translate (there are errors so please check it
yourself, i didn't have time to do a proper check myself).
/Martin
Russian:
ИВ-21
Индикатор цифровой многоразрядный вакуумный люминесцентный
I found some more pictures and restoration information
here: http://www.gloeidraad.nl/radioforum/index.php?id=177352
/Martin
On Friday, 8 August 2014 08:51:43 UTC+2, threeneurons wrote:
Here's the link to a youtube video of an Anita MK8 calculator that was
just restored:
You could try to remove the two neon bulbs and see what happens with the
Nixies, if the Nixies stop flickering it could be a software problem in the
PIC-processor. You can also replace the 74141 (or K155ID1 - K155ИД1 ) and
see if the problem disappears, sometimes they are a bit flaky and won't
Just awesome! Wish I was that good with mechanical design!
/Martin
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To post
Hi Michel,
Koude Kathode Buizen as it says on page 7 of your scan is definitely
about Cold Cathode Tubes, so they are at least mentioned.
/Martin
On Saturday, 5 July 2014 11:10:43 UTC+2, Michel wrote:
as they only discuss vacuum tubes and not cold cathode tubes,
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Hi,
Nice!
Could you share the circuit diagram?
/Martin
On Friday, 4 July 2014 00:45:22 UTC+2, Mike Mitchell wrote:
I finished the first clock and have started on the second.
A youtube video of the clock in operation is at
http://youtu.be/pK276xZWyo4
I borrowed heavily from
Jens,
Nice writeup!
Have you search the European Patent database
at: http://www.epo.org/searching/free/espacenet.html ? Nowadays I guess
that Google Patent have most of what they have but earlier they had a lot
of patents not found at Google Patents.
/Martin
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Nice clock! Thanks for sharing!
I am building a similar clock myself right now and I have read a lot of
what the Russian people write about these tubes and there are some small
design ideas/changes that they have come up with that differs from your
design - I have incorporated these in my
I have used flat top LEDs which have a somewhat white rough surface, they
are not absolutely clear, and then I placed a small amount of clear silicon
glue on top of that. The clear silicone glue turns milky white when it sets
and that spreads the light some which works quite well in my opinion,
You can read about them
here: http://www.decadecounter.com/vta/articleview.php?item=1020 and here:
http://www.decadecounter.com/vta/articleview.php?item=1073
/Martin
On Monday, 12 May 2014 09:59:24 UTC+2, Paul Parry wrote:
Hi All,
Just noticed on eBay
Hi Bob,
There is a GR43 for sale on Ebay UK
here:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GR43-VALVE-SUB-MINIATURE-GAS-TRIGGER-TUBE-CERBERUS-NEW-OLD-STOCK-/251484552167?pt=UK_Sound_Vision_Valves_Vacuum_Tubeshash=item3a8da5bbe7
, maybe that seller has more if you need.
I am sorry but I don't understand
carrying the connection this if momentarily loses
continuity[the track is 50 years old] is enough to fire the GR44 and the
solenoid...a capacitor has been suggested across the solenoid, which i have
yet to try...bob
On Friday, March 28, 2014 9:37:07 AM UTC, Dekatron42 wrote:
Hi Bob
Hi Bob,
Would it be possible for you to use a relay in between the wiper contact
and the trigger tube? Maybe the wiper could drive a relay and you then use
the relay contacts to drive the trigger tube, just for testing if that will
solve the problem.
The problem with old SRBP PCB's is that
Hi All,
Now I have finished designing and testing the Set/Reste and Carry stages
for the Russian A-201 Polyatron using the simplified driving stage I
published a few days ago.
This design also relies on the same Russian patent, SU609215, for the
simplified driving stage as it uses that
I played the whole game and never saw the Nixie watch!
Either that says something about how observant I am or how focused on the
game play I was loved the game.
/Martin
On Tuesday, 4 March 2014 04:26:24 UTC+1, nixiebunny wrote:
A person just emailed me today, asking if I was aware of the
Some of the Russian users over at Radiokot.ru have discussed this and
similar circuit arrangement, like for the IN-24 here:
http://translate.google.com/translate?depth=1hl=enie=UTF8prev=_trurl=translate.google.sesl=rutl=enu=http://radiokot.ru/forum/viewtopic.php%3Fp%3D1268086
-
I used Google
Thanks!
You just have to sell two of your DK23's to buy one at the current going
price on Ebay! ;)
/Martin
On Saturday, 1 March 2014 18:59:19 UTC+1, threeneurons wrote:
Nice work !
I gotta get my hands on one of those, one of these days !
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Thanks Jon!
I'm actually quite proud of myself (which I guess could be read between the
lines above, without much effort from the reader!). I couldn't have made it at
all without help from you and other friends and people who published tidbits
here and there, like Myxomop over at Radiokot.ru
There were 50 sold s few weeks ago on Ebay UK
:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/vintage-capacitors-x-50-small-ER32-A-ELESTA-new-swiss-15-fuse-amp-/261386179279?nma=truesi=tnNIKXvFcb6%252FkXHteD2N2XwObYM%253Dorig_cvip=truert=nc_trksid=p2047675.l2557
perhaps someone can contact that seller and see if
There are 9 ER32's for sale on eBay right now, looks used from the photo
but it says new in the auction text, the auction is for just one piece but
the seller says he has 9 for sale.
You can hold them close to a plasma ball and they will ignite if there is
neon in them (or other gases in them too), just hold them with your hand
and let them touch the glass of the plasma ball. If you compare the glow of
a known working tube and one that you think is leaky you will hopefully
for the reply yes I did tie the triggers together and
replaced the 16 if cap will double check all the other components and check
the anode current thanks bob
Sent from my HTC
- Reply message -
From: Dekatron42 martin@gmail.com javascript:
To: neoni...@googlegroups.com javascript
Did you wire both trigger electrodes together, the Z660W have two trigger
electrodes but the ER32 only one.
You must also check that the minimum anode current is 5mA as the Z660W
might otherwise work unreliably in some situation according to the
datasheet.
You might also have to check the
Mike,
You shouldn't need to worry about any fasteners with the A101's, with 13
pins and a socket with either mouser pins like Dieter Waechter use in his
spinners or the ones Threeneurons use there is enough contact pressure to
keep them seated even if you would swing them around! Even with
...@googlegroups.com javascript: [mailto:
neoni...@googlegroups.com javascript:] *On Behalf Of *Dekatron42
*Sent:* maandag 10 februari 2014 13:02
*To:* neoni...@googlegroups.com javascript:
*Subject:* Re: [neonixie-l] Elesta EZ10/A/B tester refurbished!
Eric,
One subminiature thermionic
Eric,
You can download the HP 521a frequency counter manual here:
http://bama.edebris.com/manuals/hp/521a/ which has a description of the
Phantastron circuit. You can also download the Tektronix 180a manual here:
http://bama.edebris.com/manuals/tek/180a/ and have a look at the circuit
diagram
.
On 2/9/2014 2:25 PM, Dekatron42 wrote:
Hi All,
Today I finished restoring my EZ10/A/B tester that I bought a while ago.
It is a small and nice box that makes it possible to test how the
EZ10/A/B under real working conditions. The tester is built around a
very simple
Hi,
The Elesta document can be downloaded from Dieter here:
http://www.tube-tester.com/sites/nixie/dat_arch/EZ10A_EZ10B.pdf (not a good
scan but the only one I found for download), the book by Konstantin Apel
can be bought cheap on Ebay now and then and also at places like Abebooks
for around
Hi Jon,
Ira beat you to the solution by a few minutes, but a big thanks as now two
people have guessed the same sentence and I tried it out in my image
software and used text from other portions and it fits very well!
/Martin
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You could use reed relays, they only give off a slight ping noise if you
hear them at all.
On Sunday, 2 February 2014 10:34:57 UTC+1, Dennis wrote:
Odd critter but I like the odd ones. Very noisy yes. I've been thinking
about a relay switched nixie but no where to run it. I'm sure the wife
colour,
some air might have leaked into the Nixie changing the gas mixture.
/Martin
On Sunday, 2 February 2014 04:17:06 UTC+1, Jens Boos wrote:
Hey Martin,
did you repair the leftmost Nixie tube with an Argon mixture? Impressive!
Jens
Am 02.02.2014 03:38, schrieb Dekatron42:
Hi,
I
One of my old Plasma balls uses an ordinary TV high voltage teansformer
with an in-built diode cascade and produces somewhere between 20-25KV. I
guess the plasma ball must be something like 20 years old now, or perhaps
more, I bought it as a kid a long time ago.
/Martin
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Really nice!
/Martin
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Which auction number is it for the Included are an ST shaped nomotron,
I can't see it (perhaps it has already been sold)?
/Martin
On Friday, 18 October 2013 19:54:34 UTC+2, threeneurons wrote:
I just got back from vacation, and I spotted some unique dekatron listings:
Could this be of use: http://www.lamptech.co.uk/Spec%20Sheets/GE%20AR1.htm ?
It mentions a patent at the bottom: US Patent 1965587, Ted Eugene Foulke,
General Electric Company, 1934.
/Martin
On Saturday, 12 October 2013 12:08:15 UTC+2, Jon wrote:
I just picked up a couple of GE AR-1 argon
I have several ZM1040, ZM1042 and Z566M where there is a lot of sputtered
material on the front of the glass through the anode mesh and also several
where there is a lot of sputtered material on the sides of the glass and
none of those contain the hole, some have a Mercury pill and some have a
The Russians regularely used thyratrons, both cold cathode types and those
with a heater to drive Dekatrons. What types do you have?
/Martin
On Wednesday, 2 October 2013 07:29:49 UTC+2, Smiffy wrote:
Has anyone done/seen Dekatrons used in conjunction with thyratrons?
I just happen to have
If you ever get some time left it would be very kind if you could take some
nice photos of the PCB of your DC-106A module, but you'll have to unscrew
at least 8 screws to be able to remove the PCB from the unit, four for the
BD301 and four for the PCB. I'm interrested in seeing if your module
The datashet that John linked to is stuck onto the end of the datasheet for
the QT1257, I never found it as a separate datasheet before when looking
for it several years ago.
I also forgot to say that it seems to me like these tubes were actually
named 425 or 425A as the last number varies
This was indeed a nice way of solving the reset/set circuit.
If I don't misunderstand how the circuit works you can add one transistor
between each pair of cathodes on both even and odd branches, and if you
also add the possibility to reset/set the flip/flop, it would be possible
to set the
What happens if the load varies or if the load itself introduces hum/noise
on the power line? I am thinking of how multiplexing of Nixies and/or loads
with varying power draw over time will affect the noise or regulation? I
don't think this will be a problem, but thought it would be good to
cathodes, to the other half. Insert
the nixie driving transistors in each cathode leg. LEDs are also inserted
to show the current paths.
On Sunday, September 8, 2013 10:54:49 AM UTC-7, Dekatron42 wrote:
Nice that you could adjust it to pass current on two cathodes.
To be able to build a nice
You are a bit ahead of your time too, on the circuit it says that you
designed it in September 2103! ;)
/Martin
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Nice that you could adjust it to pass current on two cathodes.
To be able to build a nice clock with these, where each cathode drive a
transistor which drives the Nixie, only one cathode should be struck at the
same time. I did not do any tests on whether this was possible with the
A-107 or
With uniselectors and bistable relays, none have to be energized except
when switching! ;)
/Martin
On Saturday, 24 August 2013 12:34:21 UTC+2, Mats.Engstrom wrote:
@eric: Sure, but that is not the issue here. The OP clearly stated the
desire to build it with a MC - and then only 6 relays
Wow, that is really nice! I'm keeping my fingers crossed that it works as
expected!
/Martin
On Tuesday, 20 August 2013 02:23:42 UTC+2, taylorjpt wrote:
I just sent out for PWBs for a new version of the 1364 that uses a
controller that operates much more quietly; will be getting those
You can always ask Brent Hilpert if he has reverse engineered his unit
which he shows here:
http://www.cs.ubc.ca/~hilpert/e/edte/Hunter120A/index.html . He has a very
nice webpage with more early counters here:
http://www.cs.ubc.ca/~hilpert/e/edte/index.html and his main webpage here:
Probably!
And the two uppermost 6802's doesn't glow in the photos either, all other
counters of this type that I have seen have had all four 6802's glowing.
/Martin
On Thursday, 15 August 2013 00:50:03 UTC+2, Jon wrote:
Ebay item 141037824096. Nice counter, but $1500 ? Really?
All this seems easy in writing, but for people like me who are not used to
making switching power supplies it would be very kind of you if you could
help me (us) with a complete solution when it comes to which toroid core to
use and how to wind it.
I don't know what your ideas are on how to
Nice!
I'll definately buy some if you will sell it in the future (near future I
hope)!
Will it be possible to get 300V from this power supply without a voltage
doubler?
From what you write, and looking at the picture, this looks like a standard
switcher which doesn't use a transformer -
Really nice with 400V output voltage!
Regarding isolation, some circuits are easier to build if the different
high voltages needed are isolated from the low voltages (digital and/or
analogue) and in the case with Russian Dekatrons like A-201 (Polyatron) it
is a lot easier to design a circuit
Hi,
You can use bistable relays with one coil, they change state for every
pulse, so to turn them on you pulse them once and to turn them off again
you pulse them once again - there are also bistable relays with two coils
where one coil is used to turn them on and the other to turn them off.
.
On Wednesday, July 24, 2013 2:15:51 AM UTC-7, Dekatron42 wrote:
The A-107, 8, 9 10 are base 10 Dekatrons just like any other Dekatron,
you will however have to use an output stage (or more) to use as a counting
output - otherwise you will just have a divide by 2 circuit from the
flip
Dieter, you will just have to shift your focus to what is important in life
- tubes ;)
/Martin
On Friday, 12 July 2013 09:19:47 UTC+2, Nocrotec wrote:
Hi,
yes will do..
I have many many more interesting tubes...
And so little time.
Dieter
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You can find interretsing information on these on Ronald Dekkers website
here: http://www.dos4ever.com/ring/ring.html - scroll down a bit and you'll
se the whole range of the ZA100X series of tubes mentioned, there is also a
datasheet that shows that the cathode is the middle pin and both
Absolutely wonderful!
Did you put the figure 6 in backwards?
/Martin
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To
Nick, are you aware of the fact that you can use two XC18's wired in
parallel with their anodes and cathodes tied together and with the trigger
electrodes separate to emulate an XC24?
This trick was shown in old magazines as a way to only use the XC18's in
counters where a reset capability
Hi Bob,
From the RFT databook och cold cathode tubes I got the information that
GR43 is equivalent to GR44, Z70U, Z70W, Z660W and ER33 - possibly with some
small changes in component values, but in most cases you can use any of
them as a replacement for the other. The ER32 is equivalent to
There was (is?) a German seller who sold B-7971 in identical styrofoam
boxes a few years ago. His came from unopened cardboard boxes which looked
to be original and those tubes were as clean as these and they did not have
any markings on them either. That seller was (is?) a respected seller of
I still want to push for the 0.1 spacing on contacts as that makes it
possible to use the card with a prototype board on top, making a sandwich
construction like the arduino shield - having 2mm pitch makes that
impossible as there are almost no prototype boards that have 2mm pitch.
/Martin
I like what John wrote above: Just an observation - if it were my board,
the connectors would be 0.1 pitch but the holes would be hard millimeter
positions..
/Martin
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Here's an example of a NE555 Nixie PSU with layout that shows the fat
tracks on the PCB:
http://bleuchez.wordpress.com/2011/09/05/a-low-cost-nixie-tube-power-supply/
(it
could be made even tighter but it works). At the end of the text there are
also references to a design by Nick De Smith :
Nice auction:
http://www.ebay.de/itm/Extrem-selten-Rundfunk-Studio-Nixie-Uhr-mit-CD-47-GR-414-/350790354531?pt=R%C3%B6hrenhash=item51acbc0663
but
what price will it fetch?
No connection to seller and not enough money to buy :(
/Martin
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Maybe it is an encryption key:
HAHAEAOCOHRGCPCFPIATIDVALATAVCLTIIHNIOCAIWOWAFDRWTMAFOMCACTEAMTPOAIOCISACEIAMAFCGPMRNWC?
;)
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