The 31PICT-3 was stock on 1300cc dualport engines offered in Europe Canada.
It has the same base flange as the 28- and 30- series carbs, so it's not
interchangeable with the 34PICT-3.
--- On Mon, 8/24/09, Bill May vwb...@san.rr.com wrote:
From: Bill May vwb...@san.rr.com
Subject: Re:
1. Although it's possible to bolt the early nosecone onto a late trans, and
people do it every day and get away with it, it's not a good idea. The
mainshaft bearing design is different, and the early nosecone can interfere
with the proper rotation lubrication of the late bearing.
2,3. The
Ruby Red was L456, last used in `67 IIRC.
`68-`70 Sedans were Royal Red (King's Red), L30A.
I couldn't find it at Glasurit's site either, but here's some info from PPG:
http://www.tcpglobal.com/aclchip.aspx?image=1968-volkswagen-pg12.jpg
Select paint type (Enamel, Urethane, Lacquer)
Enter: Royal
Actually `61 used an even shorter cable (2250mm), which is what I'd guess the
P.O. used since 8 or 10mm difference probably wouldn't be enough to account for
all that you've described.
The correct 2268mm cable for a pre`61 Beetle is 111 721 335.
Many vendors no longer stock this one and
They look like they're `66-early`68 with the small tierod end and small-I.D.
inner wheel bearing seal.
--- On Thu, 8/7/08, Bill May [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
From: Bill May [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [vintagvw] drum or disc spindles
To: Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List
I agree with the diagnosis, clutch chatter that changes as things warm up
usually does indicate a contaminated disc. Many things contribute to clutch
chatter, though (a weak/loose front mount or insufficient Bowden tube preload
for example) so there may be something you can do to improve things
When the carburetor is cold and the electric choke is on it's richening the
mixture; since your symptoms apparently don't occur until the choke heats up
and turns off I would suspect there's just not enough fuel getting in at idle.
I doubt that the fuel selection has much to do with it (I run
Similar design, but the 'Ghia tracks are further apart, the seat itself is
wider, and the bottom seat frame is lower-profile (they will NOT interchange).
'Ghia tracks were changed - moved even further apart - in mid`69 IIRC.
Bug seat tracks are all the same width through `70; an anti-ejection
In the early days of dual-circuit brakes there were differences (stroke length
and presence/absence of residual pressure check valves) but the only
replacement M/C still available for Standard Beetle/Karmann-Ghia/Thing (113 611
015BD) is designed to be universal. The outlet ports have small
The Gol WAS an ACVW originally - from `80 through `83 it had a 1285 or 1585cc
Beetle motor; in `84 they started using the Passat (Dasher) 1588 and 1780cc
waterpumper. Starting in the 90s they offered 8V and 16V 1.0 liter
waterpumpers, a turbo version of the 16V 1.0 making 112HP came out in
I think it would be wiser to use a Type I transaxle, just for the ready
availability of replacement parts.
Dasher/Audi Fox and Rabbit (early, non-GTI) used 90mm inner CV joints similar
to Type I, which will bolt right up to a Bug trans.
Check out a Dasher or Fox front suspension - the lower
0 190 601 006 was superseded by 0 190 601 007 and then by 0 190 601 016. I
don't know what the differences are, but all three are represented as suitable
for use with both the 55A AL75X and 70A AL108X Bosch alternators used in
`72-`79 buses. It may be that the only difference between the 0 190
Right, the OEM factory-installed regulators were about the size of a pack of
cigarettes. The 0 190 600 017 is the current replacement for the
externally-regulated Bosch alternator, and it would probably be OK on a
Motorola although I've never tried it personally. Here's one for a lot less
Biggest problem with the externally-regulated (4-pin as you put it)
alternators is finding a regulator to go with.
On the early factory-alternator cars that used this, it was mounted under the
back seat (same place as the regulator for a generator) and there had to be
three small wires between
Ray,
I suspect that what happened here is when the front end was rebuilt the wrong
shim table was used. Starting in March of 1960 the control arms were modified
to accept a dust shield at each link pin; each shield is the thickness of two
shim washers so only eight washers total were used per
Ethanol does indeed have a higher octane (resistance
to self-ignition) than gasoline but it also provides
substantially less energy per gallon so you need to
burn more of it to get equivalent power from the same
engine. Modern flex-fuel EFI engines are able to
automatically adjust the fuel/air
-Original Message-From: marc vellat
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List
vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
Sent: Mon, 12 May 2008 6:33 pm
Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Kadrons and Lowbugget.com
linkage help
CIP1 sells the universal cable for $9.45, or you
Before anyone gets excited that's just a typo -
85.5x69 yields 1584.6cc, not 1548 ;)
Every `75-`79 FI engine I can recall encountering used
the AJ AS21 alloy case.
The way I remember it, AH and AK were just `72-`74
8mm-head-stud variants of the `71 AE AS41 case - no
difference between them...AH
You're thinking of the `71-`74 Karmann-Ghia trans
which has a 3.875:1 ring pinion (like the AT
`73-up Beetle trans) but still has the .88 4th rather
than the .93 of the AT.
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=113852
--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Hi All,
I am planning to thin out
My god, man. Are you using longer-than-stock valves or
are the seats just sunk that far? If you're using
swivelfoot adjusters, shimming the stands out may
allow adjustment range but doesn't correct the
geometry - you need to grind the underside of the
rocker to make room for the foot.
The long
The three prongs on the externally-regulated
alternator are marked D+, DF, and D-.
DF D- go to the slipring brushes.
D+ needs to have a warning lamp connected to it (the
alternator receives its initial field flash from
ignition-switched power feeding back through the bulb
filament).
Note that
It all depends upon how much current the radio needs
to work without clipping at higher volume levels.
Years ago there were many converters with sketchy
regulation, and a lot of us used them in parallel with
a 12V motorcycle battery that smoothed the output and
furnished enough current for the
It's not really that there's an upper displacement
limit for these systems (although CB recommends 1641cc
or less) - they're merely saying that the width of the
system accomodates 1300 to 1600 BASED engines (as
opposed to the shorter-stroke 1200 engines that are
about ½ narrower between the
Boy, that's scary-looking. The V-belt doesn't even
contact the stock pulley for 90°, it just HAS to be
slipping. Standard engineering practice would call for
around 150° wrap angle
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=594494
__
Do
To: Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List
Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Bumper bracket with tow loop
I thought a previous post proved that someone's
owner's manual pictured
loops on both front and rear bumper
brackets...
Mike B.
- Original Message -
From: marc vellat [EMAIL
This is the way it should sit, looking at it from the
left side:
http://www2.cip1.com/PhotoGallery.asp?ProductCode=C12%2D5595%2D50
--- Damon Gay [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Is the short or long section of steel on the revers
lock out plate on the driver or passenger side?
-Damon
Nothing to do with the 12V conversion should be
DIRECTLY responsible for this, but if you had the carb
off and it was jostled around something could've gone
awry in the accelerator pump department.
Did the new exhaust system come with the preheat
flanges drilled? Hardly any aftermarket exhausts
The problem below 2000RPM is due to the idle
progression circuits not being right. You may be able
to improve it with larger idle pilot jets, although
the largest displacement I've ever achieved
satisfactory results with using a 34PICT-3 carb was
1775cc. With the throttle shut the carb won't
NO.
Early Type 4 will fit late Type 3, and early Type 3
will fit Type I, but no Type 4 fits any Type I. The
rotors have a different offset, too, so even though
they LOOK similar they don't interchange.
There are two rotors which will fit your
spindles/calipers; one has a centering ring which may
NO.
Early Type 4 will fit late Type 3, and early Type 3
will fit Type I, but no Type 4 fits any Type I. The
rotors have a different offset, too, so even though
they LOOK similar they don't interchange.
There are two rotors which will fit your
spindles/calipers; one has a centering ring
Somethin's wrong with that air cleaner, I'd try a
different one...if anything the engine should run
BETTER with the aircleaner on than with it off.
If you go with an aftermarket unit, get one that
stands up a few inches above the carburetor (add an
extension pipe between them if necessary) to
The way I remember it is that for the US market `68
and `69 are identical, with a reflective panel built
into the lens over the brake/tail lamp. To meet the
increased reflector area mandated for 1970, side
reflectors were added to the housings and small
rectangular reflectors added at the bumper
The 01 006 2-piece points sets are still available,
but they cost over twice as much as the more-common 01
011 used on more modern distributors. Those big-cap
units were infamous for developing excess advance at
low speeds - it's been over 20 years since I've seen
one that didn't suffer from this
That HAD to have been a snug fit, particularly with
the early H rear apron. Even a freshair-40HP won't
fit without a little trimming of the rear engine tin.
Perhaps someone had already done this on your engine?
--- wlarryglick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Back in '68 or '69 when I knew very little
The II shift housing will have a casting number of 211
301 205 + something. The earliest ones (`60-`62) had
8mm mount stud holes, after which they were enlarged
to 10mm...with an early housing, I'd use the 10mm-stud
mount and drill out the holes rather than look for the
weaker 8mm-stud mount. A
http://www.popularmechanics.com/how_to_central/automotive/1347221.html?page=2
This gets pretty anal - important part is pulling the
car up square to the wall on a level surface - for
years I've used a nearby brick building on a paved lot
(the bricks make it easy to discern tiny differences).
Do
I guess that depends upon how liberal your definition
of car is. Basically it's the mechanicals of a Fiat
128 Sedan in an even cheesier body, assembled in
Yugoslavia by workers who evidently didn't take much
pride in their product. The genuine Fiat 128 wasn't
really a bad car in its day - the
Jack, my criticism of the intake manifold applies to
the stock 1-bbl item, not the aftermarket dual-carb
pieces - that's a whole different ballgame. VW
recognized the problem and went to an intake manifold
and muffler with DUAL preheat pipes in `74 (the last
year carb'ed bug engines were offered
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92924
This one still requires a source of compressed air,
since it works on an eductor effect - but it SUCKS the
fluid through the system instead of pushing it with an
air-loaded reservoir. I first used one of these a year
ago on a
The downside to an electronic pickup is that although
they work quite well 99.999% of the time, they DO fail
and usually with little to no warning (with points,
any performance loss is typically gradual, giving you
plenty of time to do something about it before they
fail altogether - and even
You can't gain much in the way of fuel economy by
leaning the jetting - lean-misfire will set in and
your mileage may actually worsen.
The factory combinations are nearly ideal, just be
sure you have the correct air correction jet (and
corresponding main jet) for your application.
With a 70Z or
On an unmolested `71 Super the t'signals and gas gauge
get their ignition-switched power from the fuse at one
end of the box, while the 4-ways receive unswitched
power from from the fifth fuse down. Brakelights and
horn are the third fuse.
First let's correct the nomenclature. The method of
sealing the flywheel to the crank was changed (from
gasket to O-ring) in mid`66, predating the switch to
12V. So it's more accurate to refer to the components
as non-O-ring and O-ring rather than 6V and
12V.
The non-O-ring crank (as would be
If your case is small-passage (all pre-B6 singleport
cases were) it'll also be single-relief - not the best
for a doghouse cooler since it lacks the better cooler
overpressurization feature of the dual-relief case,
but you can still convert to doghouse if you want -
just don't rap the engine out
The procedure for the precise tailpipe insertion depth
(as explained in the Bentley manual) is to measure
through the tailpipe to the end of the preheat pipe -
it should be 6mm [i]less[/i] than the overall length
of the t'pipe, which tells you that they want the
preheat pipe to protrude somewhat
Right...and the rims aren't all interchangeable
either, for example you can't use a bus rim on the
front of a bug (or on the rear with short axles)
because the increased offset will cause interference
with the suspension components.
All of the stock 5-lug rims ever offered:
An HSR would be the pragmatic fix. Your symptom is
quite likely due to the additive effect of several
borderline problems in the wiring/contacts which
supply the solenoid (and possibly the solenoid
itself), which sometimes makes it hard to isolate. Due
to the longer runs of wiring on a bus
Besides the total redesign of their mounting points,
VW also changed the basic construction of the seat -
they broke down within a few years' use (especially in
the case of large persons sitting in
them)...horsehair padding leaking out everywere
scarecrow-like, broken springs/frames that snagged
You should first check with your local authorities
about what will be required to legally resister/title
the car after you do the pan swap. Generally, you're
going to need to present the titles to both vehicles
involved. How much of a hassle it'll be beyond that
varies widely from state to state.
The gear lube will be OK. GL-5 is what's recommended
for newer (water-pumper) VWs - they use different
materials for the synchro rings.
There's many things which can cause clutch chatter.
Bad/loose front mount, insufficient Bowden tube
preload, cable or pedal binding, bent or contaminated
clutch
Read the label. If the GL-5 meets the MT-1
specification (as all produced in recent years does)
then it'll be OK to leave in your transmission. But
Gerald's right, GL-4 is the right stuff if you can
find it.
As for the bearings, Japanese aren't that bad but
there is a huge problem with counterfeit
165SR15 have an aspect ratio of approximately 83,
making them ~25.8 tall. Nowadays 165/80-15 is a more
common size - they're only slightly shorter (~25.4)
and will work fine. I wouldn't pay Coker's prices for
the authentic size unless it was for car-show
points.
Don't know if you've ever experienced violent
side-to-side flopping when towing a bug before, but
it's pretty exciting and is a little more likely to
happen on a `57 with no hydraulic steering dampener.
If the front end is in reasonably tight condition and
the car is riding close to level (with
Interesting, Bill. I thought I remembered seeing `67s
with both types of overriders - assumed that some had
had the bumpers replaced, didn't know that early ones
lacked the offset from the factory. It wasn't
mandatory to clear either decklid, but it was
definitely a nice touch that gave a little
Not correctly, unless you also replace unique `67-only
apron with an earlier part. Note how the `67 lid is
somewhat squared off at the bottom, while the pre`67s
are all rounded.
Do you need a legit `67 lid? It's not as though they
were particularly hard to find or expensive. Where are
you? I have
There's another thing you can do instead of the relay,
too - that's to add a new 10GA (or even better, 8GA)
wire from the positive battery post directly to Term
30 of the ignition switch to supplant the stock wiring
that gets there the long way via the voltage
regulator, fusepanel, and headlight
If you have a stock DUALPORT distributor it's worth a
shot. The vacuum-ONLY type used on singleports has its
own issues - it'll most likely provide too much
advance, too soon, which can harm the engine...I'd
choose the 009 over it.
--- Eric Larson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Would changing the
- Original Message -
From: marc vellat [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List
vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2007 7:43 PM
Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Carberator Problem?
If you have a stock DUALPORT distributor it's
worth a
shot. The vacuum-ONLY type
No flash-to-pass feature (not on any US-market car,
anyway) and no default position.
Each time the relay receives a ground pulse on S it
energizes, and each time it energizes it switches the
output from 56a to F (or vise-versa) - it's designed
so that when it's on F the next pulse will change it
in Germany and self-imported by the first
owners, so maybe
that one has a different headlight dimmer relay.
Perhaps it's not intentional...
Chuck Kuecker
marc vellat wrote:
No flash-to-pass feature (not on any US-market
car,
anyway) and no default position.
Each time the relay receives
That silly little lamp was tacked on in a half-hearted
response to a US government requirement that heating
controls be illuminated - earlier VWs didn't have it,
and certainly none of them actually NEED it since you
normally adjust the heat by feel anyway - at least
I'd hope you aren't taking your
One per side.
--- Eric Larson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I am running a stock 34 PICT carb, so I use the
metal. Another question, my gasket kit came with 4
metal gaskets. Am I supposed to use 2 on each side
or just one per side?
Thanks, Eric
- Original Message -
From: marc
The stock part for a carb'ed engine is the embossed
metal gasket - it gives maximum heat transfer from the
head to the end casting, which helps to keep the fuel
atomized and reduces the flat spot that dualports
are infamous for. The paper gaskets could be used, but
IMO their best application is
I too have flat-towed many a Bug, near far - and in
MOST cases there's been no problem and no need to
restrain the steering wheel. But that doesn't mean
you'll never have an issue, and one should be prepared
for how to deal with it. All I'm saying is, have a
piece of rope with you just in case ;)
I feel that there's such a thing as having too much
brake, especially if it disrupts the balance - if you
have to threshold-brake to keep one end from locking
up long before the other end is contributing much to
the effort, you could actually end up with LONGER
stopping distances. I've found this
I suppose it's more embarrassing than humorous, but I
was deep in the woods without a spare fanbelt and a
high-compression engine that never would've made it
the eight miles back to civilization without some
cooling. November `84, took my wife and 1-year-old
daughter up to Snoqualmie national
There are three stock large-diameter pedestals (not
counting the multion-function casting on an F.I.
motor). Commonly called 12V but there was a
large-diameter 6V made too that requires the 12V
pedestal, strap, pulley and sheetmetal.
The letter at the end of the casting number is B for
the one
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