Re: [RBW] Re: Sam Hillborne Pictures Thread

2024-05-23 Thread Patrick Moore
Thanks, Andrew.

On Thu, May 23, 2024 at 5:10 PM Andrew Joseph 
wrote:

> Patrick,
>
> Thank you!
>
> Those little contraptions are actually called “Cable Cherries.”  They are
> easily installed and tightened via a 1.5 mm hex.  They are quite fun, come
> in some great colors and are available from Forager Cycles, and Paul, among
> others.  See below for the description from Forager…
>
> “The Cable Cherries are durable, reusable cable ends with a huge grip - no
> more crimps wiggling off leaving a frayed, pokey end! The easy-to-grab
> sphere shape makes adjusting cable tension or swapping components simple.
> Tape the included 1.5mm hex key to your tire lever, and you’re set!
>
> Easily grab the sphere to snug up your cable tension. Take them on and off
> as much as you need with the included 1.5mm hex key & set screw. The Cable
> Cherries are CNC machined in Oakland, CA on the same equipment that makes
> surgical pins & screws. Get 'em tight, and have 'em for life.”
> The saddle is a Berthoud Galibier.  A bit more narrow (and Ti rails) than
> their normal offerings.
>
> Hope this is helpful.
>
> Best,
>
> Drew
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On May 23, 2024, at 6:01 PM, Patrick Moore  wrote:
>
> 
> Andrew: nice. Pray, what is the little orange globular cable end -- I
> guess I really mean, how is it designed and how does it clamp to the cable
> -- and where do you get them?
>
> And, what is the saddle? Brooks Swift? Or trimmed Pro? Or another marque?
>
> Patrick Moore, ruthlessly bottom-trimming and wondering what to do with
> the very, very nice -- thick leather! -- as-new B17N that he got recently
> for ~$47 + shipping.
>
>
> On Thu, May 23, 2024 at 4:50 PM Andrew Joseph 
> wrote:
>
>> Better photos…
>>
>> 
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: New Bike Day: My Little Platy

2024-05-23 Thread Patrick Moore
IMO this ties with the other customized Platypus featured here recently for
"nicest-looking Platypus in list history," and it probably wins the award
for "most attention paid to aesthetics" in list history. Note: I think very
many of the Rivs posted are lovely to look at.

Me, as with Mitch, "I am a guy." I am fully OC about my bikes for parts and
builds and design (I remember most of the parts from my first 1970 full
build), but not aesthetics, and it's interesting to see how others'
passions turn out.

Cerakoting is new to me; had to Google it. I see it differs from anodizing,
but, how exactly? Too bad webmeisters are generally better fancy web page
design than conveying information -- this for global corporate websites as
well as bike websites; the latter on the whole do better. I gather that
anodizing is colored (or not) oxidizing while cerakoting is a --- coating.

One of the early links that DDG turned up said: "Anodized versus Cerakote:
Which is better for your AR15?"




On Thu, May 23, 2024 at 9:56 AM Armand Kizirian 
wrote:

> Looks super fun. Good to know Paul can anodize parts like that! Also
> interested to hear how the different size rides for you. Enjoy!
>

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Re: [RBW] Gearing question -

2024-05-19 Thread Patrick Moore
Even quads! -- very briefly; Mountain Tamer Quad. Too finicky, IME.

On Sun, May 19, 2024 at 2:58 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:

> ... , but I've used singles, doubles, and triples on various 26" wheel
> bikes.)
>

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Re: [RBW] Gearing question -

2024-05-19 Thread Patrick Moore
If your current cogset is a freewheel it probably has no more than 7 cogs
which limits the number of different gears.

How many gears you need depends on your own preferences: how high a high --
you've said you want a higher one and yes, 70" is pretty low; how low a low
-- with the 24/34 I assume you want to keep a similar low gear of <20"; and
how close you want the gaps between gears.

The possibilities also depend on how often you shift between chainrings and
how much you like quick, smooth shifts.

The easiest option would be to swap the 38 for a 46 which would give a
still pretty low 85" gear, assuming a more or less 26" tall wheel. The gap
between this and the 24 is pretty big but it has been done, and it would be
more doable if you don't use the 24 very much.

The next option is a triple with 46/36/24 which is pretty typical 7 speed
triple chainring, tho' still on the low side with 26" wheels. Or -- my
preference were I to use a triple with 5, 6, or 7 sp fw -- would be
something like a 46/42/24 halfstep plus granny for closer ratios with
higher top and same low.

But my overall preference would be to go whole hog and swap the hub for a
modern cassette hub with 10 or 11 gears; yes, you'd probably have to spread
the rear but it's not hard to spread a 126 mm OL rear to 130; in fact, I've
often used 130 hubs in 126 steel frames, tho' it's a pain. With 3 or 4 more
cogs you can (1) mix and match much more easily, (2) get a much higher top
gear with the same 38 t ring, (3) get a similar or even lower low, and (4)
get closer intermediate gears, *and* (5) do this without adding another
chainring.

I personally like "1X + granny" using 10 sp cassettes (might one day try
11) with something like a (note: this is for 700C wheels with fat tires, so
about 29" tall, 3" taller than 559 wheels) 44/28 and a 14-28 10 sp (easy to
customize cogs with a freehub) giving a high of ~90" and a low about 29",
but with very close intermediate gears. Abandon 1-cog differences in the
cruising gears and you can get just about any reasonable high and
reasonable low with this sort of setup.

Patrick Moore, who has owned umpteen gadzillion 26" wheel road,
all-rounder, and mountain bikes each with customized gearing. (My 2 current
26-ers are road bikes -- 29" for off road -- one fixed or with 2-speed IGH
fixed hubs, 76" and either 68", 66", or 57" depending on hub) and the other
with 3 speed fixed: 72", 65", 54" or 3 speed fw: 75", 65", 56"; 24.5" 559
 X 28mm  and 25.6" 559 X 42 mm wheels respectively, but I've used singles,
doubles, and triples on various 26" wheel bikes.)

On Sun, May 19, 2024 at 9:20 AM Stephen Durfee  wrote:

> Another list member recently asked a question "Which Front Derailleur
> option is best for a 38/24 front, 11-36 rear". At the time, I commented
> that my AR has a 38/24 front, that I often spin out on level ground and can
> only coast down hills, and that I have been planning to remove the chain
> guard and swap in a 46T front ring, to turn my double into a triple. But
> then I got to wondering, would I actually be better off making a switch in
> the back...
>
> My 26" rear wheel is built around a Bullseye hub, with a 14-34 freewheel.
> The front wheel is brand new - a Rich-built dynamo with a Shimano hub.
>
> My questionwould I be better off making a change in the front, going
> with a triple and the current rear wheel? Or, should I upgrade to a new
> rear wheel, with a hub cassette at 11-36? Here is my stab at basic math,
> which may or may not provide useful information
> My current "big gear"  38÷14 = 2.71
> with the added triple,   46÷14 = 3.28
> with a new cassette and existing chainrings 38 ÷ 11= 3.45
>
> I understand, of course, a new rear wheel would be a more expensive
> solution. My existing FD is a Shimano 105. I think it could handle the
> triple, but I haven't yet put it to the test.   Are there other factors to
> consider?
>
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Re: [RBW] TPU inner tubes - Anyone using them?

2024-05-17 Thread Patrick Moore
Good to have an opinion of Schwalbe 14A butyls versus at least 1 brand of
TPU tubes; perhaps I'm well enough off with the Schwalbe butyl extralights
which, besides, do very well amongst goatheads with OS regular forumla.

On Fri, May 17, 2024 at 9:38 AM Ted Durant  wrote:

> On May 16, 2024, at 11:52 PM, Harry Travis  wrote:
>
> "I was much less impressed by the ride quality of the thicker TPU tubes.
> Though they still weigh less than butyl tubes, they don’t have the same
> buoyant feeling of the lighter weight models. They changed the feel of the
> bike completely; it felt like I was riding on cheap tires—or garden
> hoses—instead of the high end tires I was testing. "
>
> Note that the heaviest tube he rode on weighed 110g and is for a 35-40mm
> tire. But then he discerned inferior ride quality, too, from a 65g tube
> compared to a 30z
>
>
> I also have some Foss tubes that I have used in 584-42 and 584-48 Rene
> Herse ultralight tires, and I have used Scwhalbe #13 (standard) and #14A
> (extra light) tubes in those same tires. None of them make the tires feel
> like garden hoses, IMO. I never had to patch a Foss tube, but I haven’t put
> huge miles on them. I had what I think is more than a normal amount flats
> with the extra light butyl tubes, but I wouldn’t say that’s a certainty
> because wet roads and old tires are the primary risk factors and I can’t
> say I’ve controlled for that.
>
> I would rank order the tubes as you’d expect for “ride feel” -
> RH TPU
> Schwalbe extra light
> Foss
> Schwalbe standard
>
> I don’t think there’s much difference in feel between Foss and Schwalbe
> standard tubes, and the difference between RH TPU and Schwalbe extra light
> is pretty small.
>
> All just one man’s opinion.
>
> Ted Durant
> Milwaukee WI USA
>
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Re: [RBW] TPU inner tubes - Anyone using them?

2024-05-15 Thread Patrick Moore
I'd like to try latex tubes (hell, I'd like to try TPUs if they had a
better reputation) but latex tubes aren't made in 559" wheel sizes.

Has anyone tried and had success with installing appropriately wide latex
tubes in smaller diameter wheels by folding the tube to fit? Results?

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Re: [RBW] Re: My Rivendell Platypus - A Forever Bike Build

2024-05-15 Thread Patrick Moore
gt;>>>> Hunter cycles Nugz for extra cable adjustment. Rene herse and nitto cable
>>>>> hangars. Yokozuna reaction compressionless housing. All capped off with
>>>>> Forager cycles cable cherries. Kool stop brake pads with the grey e-bike
>>>>> pad compound. This was my final hurrah to test the ultimate canti-lever
>>>>> brake setup and deem its worthiness as a brake. It has not passed by test.
>>>>> Riv recommends v-brakes for several valid reasons.
>>>>>
>>>>> Custom wheelset featuring White Industries MI5 hubs laced to Velocity
>>>>> Quill rims with Sapim spokes and brass nipples, 32h front, 36h rear, all
>>>>> polished. Rene Herse Tires, 48mm Hatcher Pass and Oracle Ridge. I will
>>>>> likely keep an endurance casing Oracle ridge as a final tire choice, setup
>>>>> tubeless with Ultradynamico brass tubeless valves. I like riding fast,
>>>>> especially on dirt.
>>>>>
>>>>> Drivetrain features an ultra rare 110/73bcd Middleburn lightweight
>>>>> road triple with 42/28t gearing and Rivendell chain guard and brass
>>>>> self-extractors. Aluminum Sugino 28t chainring and aluminum chainring
>>>>> hardware for weight reduction. NOS Dura-Ace 7700 sealed cartridge Bottom
>>>>> bracket. Pedals are MKS Pretzel with shorter 4-5mm length brass set screws
>>>>> to replace the 6mm long aggressive steel pins. Ultegra PD-ES600 SPD pedals
>>>>> for longer rides when I want to be clipped in. Deore XT 9-speed 11-34
>>>>> cassette, with NOS Dura Ace 7700 mid-cage rear derailleur (wolftooth
>>>>> roadlink to clear the 34t), Dura Ace 7800 double front derailleur. KMC
>>>>> 10-speed X10SL with the gold treatment, because, gold! This all shifts
>>>>> *wonderfully.*
>>>>>
>>>>> Accessories include Nitto F32 front rack with Tanaka stainless steel
>>>>> basket held by Voile mini straps, Nitto 32r rear rack with cygolite rear
>>>>> light mount. Front rack features upcycled 28t chainring for my cygolite
>>>>> go-pro mount (blue lug style) and M6 brass set screws to fill the unused
>>>>> braze-ons. Blue Lug yellow X-Strap bungee cords front and rear, with the 
>>>>> x2
>>>>> rainbow Rivendell straps laced through the basket to handle any odd things
>>>>> to carry on the fly. Beautiful Nitto R bottle cage on top, with ultra rare
>>>>> matching Nitto BG-L 1-liter bottle cage on the bottom. Greenfield 
>>>>> kickstand
>>>>> wrapped with newbaums purple. Purple Blue Lug Koma lights front and rear 
>>>>> at
>>>>> the drop-outs for when I forget to bring my nicer lights. Newbaums wrap on
>>>>> top tube for convenient handle grip when carrying up/down stairs to the
>>>>> train. Blue lug style newbaums chainstay guard. Hemp twine features
>>>>> everywhere. Lastly, any unused braze-ons are populated with M5 brass set
>>>>> screws, including the backside of the utilized hourglass mounts 
>>>>>
>>>>> Security includes hexlox axles, with the same keyed inserts for the
>>>>> seatpost clamp, stem, and saddle. GPS sticker for theft deterrent. Hidden
>>>>> air tag. Serial number registered in two bike indexes. I purchased a
>>>>> Kryptonite mini New York u-lock off ebay ($60 new!). It is absurd and
>>>>> confidence inspiring. Makes my evolution mini u-lock look like a joke.
>>>>>
>>>>> One bit I forgot to mention. The inner position of the lower rear
>>>>> right rack mount are positioned perfectly for a chain holder, as 80's
>>>>> touring bikes used to have. An Acetal bushing with delrin washers result 
>>>>> in
>>>>> not just a chain holder, but the ability to backpedal and lube the chain
>>>>> wit the wheel off.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks for reading!
>>>>> Armand
>>>>> Santa Monica, CA
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> --
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Re: [RBW] TPU inner tubes - Anyone using them?

2024-05-14 Thread Patrick Moore
Sheesh; sorry for the bad experiences and, again -- don't hate me for this
-- thanks for being the bad-news guinea pig.

Let us know if you ever rustle up Rene Herse customer service for refunds
or replacements.

I use Schwalbe extra light butyls with Orange Seal regular formula in road
tires (30 to 60 psi, 559 X 42 and 559 X 28, slightly lower psi in front
than rear) and I am very happy to report that this works well. I guess I'll
continue to be happy with this arrangement for a while longer.

Everybody: If you experiment with TPUs, please keep the list informed.
Thanks.

Patrick Moore, who would love to swap 70 gram / 100 gram butyls for 35
gram, faster-rolling TPUs with compatible sealant proven against goatheads,
in ABQ, NM.

On Tue, May 14, 2024 at 5:19 PM Ted Durant  wrote:

> Another update. Found my Riv Road (622x32) had an almost flat front tire
> this afternoon. Pulled the tube and found no holes but a very slow leak
> from the valve stem. Using my fingers to grip the stem, I was able to back
> off the core then re-tighten it. The leak was worse. So, I gripped the
> valve with pliers and again re-tightened the core. As I worried would
> happen, when I went to reinflate the tube to check for a leak, the tube had
> broken at the base of the stem. That tire is now inflated by old reliable
> Schwalbe no 16. Out of the six tubes I bought in that size, I'm down to
> three usable. I like having removable/replaceable cores, but they're kind
> of silly on tubes that have such a fragile connection to the valve.
>
> The repair I made yesterday (Waterford ST-22, 622x32, rear wheel) didn't
> work. I pulled the tube again and checked for leaks in water, which I
> should have done yesterday. I'm not sure whether what I thought was a hole
> actually was, but I found a tiny hole in the same place relative to the
> valve stem, the other way around. The hole was so tiny that it was not at
> all visible - only could find it from the bubbles that came out of it under
> water. So, that one is patched and reinstalled.
>
> I've used Schwalbe superlight tubes on my Breadwinner (584x48) and had
> mostly good luck with them, though I did get a flat on that bike's maiden
> voyage. That was a special treat because it was my first experience with
> rims designed for going tubeless and I didn't know how hard it would be to
> get the beads off the shelves (and back on again). I'm going to experiment
> with superlight tubes on my Riv Road, where I think I'll benefit from them.
> Not sure I'll use them elsewhere.
>
> Ted Durant
> Milwaukee WI USA
>
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Re: [RBW] Riv-rafting

2024-05-11 Thread Patrick Moore
Tom Lutz seems to have accommodated himself and his Brompton to the mass of
his Fliptail. I'd guess that with the wheels (or is it a minimalist
trailer?) and flat terrain that even a weighty boat is less of a problem
than, say, the inflatable 2-person kayaks that my next door neighbors have
(fun fact: he was a brazer for Serrotta back when Serrotta did lugged steel
bikes) which take a while to deflate, dry, and roll up.

John: what do you think: is your boat easier to manipulate between bike
packing and floating and back again than this Fliptail with tailer?

I've no dog in this fight*; I think any bike-cum-boat travel incident looks
like great fun and ought to be illustrated on this list with a great number
of photos.


[*Ill disciplined imagination: recall the Economist cover with drawing of
Ozarks or Appalachian front porch during Clinton I vs Lewinsky, with
slogan: "He's a hard dog to keep on the porch." Nothing beats Southern
syntax.]



On Sat, May 11, 2024 at 3:07 PM Wesley  wrote:

> That’s a fliptail: https://duckworks.com/fliptail-7-plans-pdf/
>
> I built its ancestor the origami from the same designer about six years
> ago to be a compact tender for the boat we were living aboard. It turned
> out very heavy so we never used it, preferring our inflatable kayaks.
>
> The fliptail is probably a bit lighter but I don’t think it’s really a
> great combo with a bike. Would love to be wrong, though!
> -Wes
>
> On Saturday, May 11, 2024 at 11:28:47 AM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> Now that has to be one of the most interesting commutes I've heard about;
>> thanks for sharing.
>>
>> I'd love to know more about his boat and what it's made from and its
>> features.
>>
>> On Sat, May 11, 2024 at 11:22 AM  wrote:
>>
>>> This guy did a bike/boat commute from Jersey into NYC. Pretty unique
>>> setup!
>>>
>>> [image: maxresdefault.jpg]
>>>
>>> A bike commute you wont believe - Tom Lutz
>>> <https://youtu.be/k-DLqc9Vplg?si=R3KNhdfn5-IZzuEK>
>>> youtu.be <https://youtu.be/k-DLqc9Vplg?si=R3KNhdfn5-IZzuEK>
>>> <https://youtu.be/k-DLqc9Vplg?si=R3KNhdfn5-IZzuEK>
>>>
>>>
>>> --
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>


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Re: [RBW] Front derailleur options for 38/24 front, 11-36 rear?

2024-05-11 Thread Patrick Moore
It just occurred to me that I can use a good FD that still has the outer
throw limit arm -- the extension of the parallelogram that contacts the
bottom of the outer limit screw; I cut off that on my 7400 when using it
with a Silver triple -- the throw was just right sans stop to get the chain
onto the 46 t ring -- and ditto for the 7402, to get *that* one to work
with a wide-Q (172 mm IIRC) Bontrager Race Lite pipe spindle external
bearing triple. That too serendipitously worked perfectly without any
except design limit to its outer throw. But I should replace the 7402 with
the 7400 on the Matthews because with 158 mm Logic (triple converted to
double) there is far more throw on the 7402 than needed -- whence a
"manual" stop when I shift -- while the design limit on the 7400 ought to
be just right for this Logic.



On Sat, May 11, 2024 at 3:15 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:

> I don't see the latter listing (auction had closed when I looked) but I'll
> honor my commitment; the various other DA FDs that popped up were in tht
> $40 to $60 range, which I don't mind paying. And I'm 9/10 convinced that
> yours will work fine.
>
> On Sat, May 11, 2024 at 3:08 PM Robert Calton  wrote:
>
>> That is extremely generous of you, Patrick, wow! I will then order this
>> derailleur <https://www.ebay.com/itm/256209530268?var=556202231378> with
>> delight (it's a little nicer condition than the other one). I plan to have
>> my local, independent bike shop assemble the bike when all the parts arrive
>> -- just waiting on this then and the wheels. They've got the right ethos
>> for this community (they only sell steel, normal folk's bikes and mostly
>> older "rescue" bikes they recondition), so I trust that they are experts on
>> installation. I'll keep in touch after the build, hopefully with a
>> successful report and some glamor shots :)
>>
>> On Saturday, May 11, 2024 at 4:54:47 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>>> Robert: If you will be using a 9 speed cassette, I'll go out on a limb
>>> and predict that the first-gen DA will work fine. I'll go so far as to
>>> offer: If after trying it and getting expert advice if it * does not* work,
>>> and as long as the FD is in the same condition as when you bought it, I'll
>>> buy the 1st gen DA from you for your full purchase price minus your
>>> shipping expense from the seller. (I'll pay *your* shipping cost *to
>>> me,* of course.)
>>>
>>> On Sat, May 11, 2024 at 2:45 PM Robert Calton  wrote:
>>>
>>>> Thanks for the wealth of information Patrick :) I am excited to learn
>>>> more about bicycles in general and thrilled to build this Homer over the
>>>> next month. I will be running a 9-speed cassette, so I don't think that
>>>> I'll be trying to find a super narrow FD cage. I'll look into the DA 7402
>>>> and similar derailleurs. I like the all-silver look.
>>>>
>>>> On Saturday, May 11, 2024 at 4:40:32 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Forgot to address one of your questions: * Does me running 11-36
>>>>> cassette have anything to do with the front derailleur choice?*
>>>>>
>>>>> It might, since with such a small outer cog the chain will be closer
>>>>> to the chainstay and bottom of the FD cage than with a bigger outer like a
>>>>> 13 or 14. Whether this makes a difference in your case, I cannot say for
>>>>> sure, but again I'd *guess* that, since you will be using the 11 only
>>>>> with the 38, this won't matter.
>>>>>
>>>>> There's also the matter of a wider cassette and chain rub on the
>>>>> derailleur cage. Is your cassette 11 speed or more? If so, I can't speak 
>>>>> to
>>>>> that, but the wider the change in chain angle and the narrower the FD cage
>>>>> (as, for a 1st-gen DA road FD for 5 o 6 speed freewheels) the more chance
>>>>> of chain rub on the extreme outside and inside cogs unless you trim the 
>>>>> FD.
>>>>> For me, I use my DA 7402 (I am pretty sure) FD with a 10 sp cassette and
>>>>> when I set the FD "in the middle" of its range there is no chain rub 
>>>>> either
>>>>> in small or big cogs, and I think there's still futher leeway for chain
>>>>> angle without rubbing.
>>>>>
>>>>> Also affecting chain angle is chainstay length, but as this the RBW
>>>>> list and not rec.bicycles.tech or Cat.6.fredlist, I'd guess that will not
>>>>> be a problem for you.
>>>&g

Re: [RBW] TPU inner tubes - Anyone using them?

2024-05-11 Thread Patrick Moore
Yes, often after 6 months or a year or more of riding, after the sealant
has plugged, I guess very many wee little thorn holes, enough sealant will
have wept into the tire carcase and dried to glue the tube to the inside of
the tire.

I use very thin butyl tubes. Even so, I've never, ever had a problem or
even a worry about just yanking hard to peel the tube off the tire; and
again, when it sticks firmly this is generally after >12 months at least.

The real and big problem is a big hole that dumps most of 2 to 4 fl oz
(depending if 1" or 1/8" tube) all at once into the inside of the tire;
then you don't usually have a sticking problem but you've got a bloody
mess. I carry an old bandana in each tool kit to wipe up such messes,
though 99/100 times I use them instead to wipe my hands after messing with
the chain.

On Sat, May 11, 2024 at 3:16 PM Chris Fly  wrote:

> Patrick,
>
> How is it to take a tube with sealant out of the tire after the sealant
> has fixed a hole? Do they stick to each other?
>
> Chris
>
> Make a space for people to come as they are and not have to just “fit in”
>
> On May 11, 2024, at 2:11 PM, Patrick Moore  wrote:
>
> 
> I've used sealant in inner tubes since about 2013, when after years of
> using ~utility tires (Paselas, Kojaks, Fatboys, City Slickers, Tom Slicks,
> Avocets) and fixing >150 flats per year I tried a pair of new "open
> tubular" Paris Roubaix and got 5 goathead flats within 10 or 15 miles.
> Stan's worked in my 700C X 28 standard road tubes and, after a couple of
> years, Orange Seal worked even better.
>
> I use Orange Seal in the lightest-weight butyls I can find; notable 100
> gram actual 650B/559 X 1.8 Schwalbes and 70 gram actual Schwalbe 650C X
> 20/559X1", as well as Conti 650C/559 ditto, Specialized 26X1" ditto,  and
> (IIRC) lightweight Vittoria ditto.
>
> OS in tubes at 30 to 60 psi works I'd guess a metaphorical 905 or 95% as
> well as OS in fat tubeless low pressure tires.
>
> *OS Regular Formula!* OS Endurance, wonderful in fat lp tubeless tires, *does
> not work for me* in road tubes at 30 to 60 psi.
>
> The penetrants I face are almost always goatheads. I get the very
> occasional (<1X/year for 2-3K miles across 3 bikes) larger hole that OS
> Regular won't seal, but even those are 9 times out of 10 slow leaks and let
> me get home before the tire goes flat (short rides, =/<30 miles). I carry 2
> spare tubes, either containing 2 fl oz of OS Regular or -- now prefer --
> dry + 4 fl oz bottle of OS Regular, and on the very rare occasions I have
> to stop mid ride for a puncture I change the tube and repair the puncture
> with a Rema once back home.
>
> You can patch tubes with sealant as long as you clean all sealant off the
> area to be patched (I use alcohol just to be sure), then rough it, glue,
> and patch as usual.
>
> Stan's used to leave rubber octopuses of dried sealant in tubes after 12
> or 18 months; OS regular does not do that; I only add more -- 1X year or
> less often -- when my tubes start deflating and not sealing immediately --
> due, I think, to many small punctures over 12-18 months that leak very
> small amounts of sealant into the tire carcase, so that eventually there is
> no longer enough left in the tube to do its job. This compares to replacing
> OS Endurance every 3 or 4 months in lp tubeless tires in our dry climate;
> in very dry hot weather ~3 months, in colder, more humid weather, ~4 months.
>
>
> --
>
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
> ---
>
> Executive resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, letters, and other writing
> services
>
> ---
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
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> .
>


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---

*When 

Re: [RBW] Front derailleur options for 38/24 front, 11-36 rear?

2024-05-11 Thread Patrick Moore
I don't see the latter listing (auction had closed when I looked) but I'll
honor my commitment; the various other DA FDs that popped up were in tht
$40 to $60 range, which I don't mind paying. And I'm 9/10 convinced that
yours will work fine.

On Sat, May 11, 2024 at 3:08 PM Robert Calton  wrote:

> That is extremely generous of you, Patrick, wow! I will then order this
> derailleur <https://www.ebay.com/itm/256209530268?var=556202231378> with
> delight (it's a little nicer condition than the other one). I plan to have
> my local, independent bike shop assemble the bike when all the parts arrive
> -- just waiting on this then and the wheels. They've got the right ethos
> for this community (they only sell steel, normal folk's bikes and mostly
> older "rescue" bikes they recondition), so I trust that they are experts on
> installation. I'll keep in touch after the build, hopefully with a
> successful report and some glamor shots :)
>
> On Saturday, May 11, 2024 at 4:54:47 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> Robert: If you will be using a 9 speed cassette, I'll go out on a limb
>> and predict that the first-gen DA will work fine. I'll go so far as to
>> offer: If after trying it and getting expert advice if it * does not* work,
>> and as long as the FD is in the same condition as when you bought it, I'll
>> buy the 1st gen DA from you for your full purchase price minus your
>> shipping expense from the seller. (I'll pay *your* shipping cost *to me,*
>> of course.)
>>
>> On Sat, May 11, 2024 at 2:45 PM Robert Calton  wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks for the wealth of information Patrick :) I am excited to learn
>>> more about bicycles in general and thrilled to build this Homer over the
>>> next month. I will be running a 9-speed cassette, so I don't think that
>>> I'll be trying to find a super narrow FD cage. I'll look into the DA 7402
>>> and similar derailleurs. I like the all-silver look.
>>>
>>> On Saturday, May 11, 2024 at 4:40:32 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>>
>>>> Forgot to address one of your questions: * Does me running 11-36
>>>> cassette have anything to do with the front derailleur choice?*
>>>>
>>>> It might, since with such a small outer cog the chain will be closer to
>>>> the chainstay and bottom of the FD cage than with a bigger outer like a 13
>>>> or 14. Whether this makes a difference in your case, I cannot say for sure,
>>>> but again I'd *guess* that, since you will be using the 11 only with
>>>> the 38, this won't matter.
>>>>
>>>> There's also the matter of a wider cassette and chain rub on the
>>>> derailleur cage. Is your cassette 11 speed or more? If so, I can't speak to
>>>> that, but the wider the change in chain angle and the narrower the FD cage
>>>> (as, for a 1st-gen DA road FD for 5 o 6 speed freewheels) the more chance
>>>> of chain rub on the extreme outside and inside cogs unless you trim the FD.
>>>> For me, I use my DA 7402 (I am pretty sure) FD with a 10 sp cassette and
>>>> when I set the FD "in the middle" of its range there is no chain rub either
>>>> in small or big cogs, and I think there's still futher leeway for chain
>>>> angle without rubbing.
>>>>
>>>> Also affecting chain angle is chainstay length, but as this the RBW
>>>> list and not rec.bicycles.tech or Cat.6.fredlist, I'd guess that will not
>>>> be a problem for you.
>>>>
>>>> On Sat, May 11, 2024 at 2:29 PM Patrick Moore 
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I've not used a first-gen DA FD, but I have used a 7400 and a 740n --
>>>>> either 01 or 02; I think it's the latter. Again, it shifts very well over 
>>>>> a
>>>>> 44/28 and also did so ove a 38/24.
>>>>>
>>>>> Now, I may simply be less demanding about FD performance; and I don't
>>>>> shift the front a great deal (my setups since the 2X9 on the Fargo are 1X 
>>>>> +
>>>>> granny) but when I do shift the front, I don't have any more problems than
>>>>> I had with more typical road doubles or old-time mtb tripls.
>>>>>
>>>>> I do have a chain catcher mounted to the chainstay just aft of the bb
>>>>> to prevent chain suck, but I first installed that on the Fargo with the
>>>>> 46/36/24 triple when I was having chainsuck problems; I've not had that
>>>>> problem with the 2Xs.
>>>>>
>>>>> To sum up and answer your question d

Re: [RBW] TPU inner tubes - Anyone using them?

2024-05-11 Thread Patrick Moore
I've used sealant in inner tubes since about 2013, when after years of
using ~utility tires (Paselas, Kojaks, Fatboys, City Slickers, Tom Slicks,
Avocets) and fixing >150 flats per year I tried a pair of new "open
tubular" Paris Roubaix and got 5 goathead flats within 10 or 15 miles.
Stan's worked in my 700C X 28 standard road tubes and, after a couple of
years, Orange Seal worked even better.

I use Orange Seal in the lightest-weight butyls I can find; notable 100
gram actual 650B/559 X 1.8 Schwalbes and 70 gram actual Schwalbe 650C X
20/559X1", as well as Conti 650C/559 ditto, Specialized 26X1" ditto,  and
(IIRC) lightweight Vittoria ditto.

OS in tubes at 30 to 60 psi works I'd guess a metaphorical 905 or 95% as
well as OS in fat tubeless low pressure tires.

*OS Regular Formula!* OS Endurance, wonderful in fat lp tubeless tires, *does
not work for me* in road tubes at 30 to 60 psi.

The penetrants I face are almost always goatheads. I get the very
occasional (<1X/year for 2-3K miles across 3 bikes) larger hole that OS
Regular won't seal, but even those are 9 times out of 10 slow leaks and let
me get home before the tire goes flat (short rides, =/<30 miles). I carry 2
spare tubes, either containing 2 fl oz of OS Regular or -- now prefer --
dry + 4 fl oz bottle of OS Regular, and on the very rare occasions I have
to stop mid ride for a puncture I change the tube and repair the puncture
with a Rema once back home.

You can patch tubes with sealant as long as you clean all sealant off the
area to be patched (I use alcohol just to be sure), then rough it, glue,
and patch as usual.

Stan's used to leave rubber octopuses of dried sealant in tubes after 12 or
18 months; OS regular does not do that; I only add more -- 1X year or less
often -- when my tubes start deflating and not sealing immediately -- due,
I think, to many small punctures over 12-18 months that leak very small
amounts of sealant into the tire carcase, so that eventually there is no
longer enough left in the tube to do its job. This compares to replacing OS
Endurance every 3 or 4 months in lp tubeless tires in our dry climate; in
very dry hot weather ~3 months, in colder, more humid weather, ~4 months.

On Sat, May 11, 2024 at 2:52 PM Ted Durant  wrote:

>
> >
> > On May 11, 2024, at 3:23 PM, Patrick Moore  wrote:
> >
> > 'd love to use featherlight, more puncture-resistant TPUs in place of
> the extralight butyls I now use (with sealant, of course, since this is the
> land of goat heads; this for road tires;
>
> I’d like to hear more about your experience using sealant in butyl tubes.
> I tried that briefly. It seemed to make the tubes use-once-and-throw-away,
> as once it deflated the sealant stuck together so much that the tube
> wouldn’t inflate again.
>
> Ted Durant
> Milwaukee WI USA
>
> --
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> .
>


-- 

Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
---

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---

*When thou didst not, savage, k**now thine own meaning,*

*But wouldst gabble like a** thing most brutish,*

*I endowed thy purposes w**ith words that made them known.*

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Re: [RBW] Front derailleur options for 38/24 front, 11-36 rear?

2024-05-11 Thread Patrick Moore
Robert: If you will be using a 9 speed cassette, I'll go out on a limb and
predict that the first-gen DA will work fine. I'll go so far as to offer:
If after trying it and getting expert advice if it * does not* work, and as
long as the FD is in the same condition as when you bought it, I'll buy the
1st gen DA from you for your full purchase price minus your shipping
expense from the seller. (I'll pay *your* shipping cost *to me,* of course.)

On Sat, May 11, 2024 at 2:45 PM Robert Calton  wrote:

> Thanks for the wealth of information Patrick :) I am excited to learn more
> about bicycles in general and thrilled to build this Homer over the next
> month. I will be running a 9-speed cassette, so I don't think that I'll be
> trying to find a super narrow FD cage. I'll look into the DA 7402 and
> similar derailleurs. I like the all-silver look.
>
> On Saturday, May 11, 2024 at 4:40:32 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> Forgot to address one of your questions: * Does me running 11-36
>> cassette have anything to do with the front derailleur choice?*
>>
>> It might, since with such a small outer cog the chain will be closer to
>> the chainstay and bottom of the FD cage than with a bigger outer like a 13
>> or 14. Whether this makes a difference in your case, I cannot say for sure,
>> but again I'd *guess* that, since you will be using the 11 only with the
>> 38, this won't matter.
>>
>> There's also the matter of a wider cassette and chain rub on the
>> derailleur cage. Is your cassette 11 speed or more? If so, I can't speak to
>> that, but the wider the change in chain angle and the narrower the FD cage
>> (as, for a 1st-gen DA road FD for 5 o 6 speed freewheels) the more chance
>> of chain rub on the extreme outside and inside cogs unless you trim the FD.
>> For me, I use my DA 7402 (I am pretty sure) FD with a 10 sp cassette and
>> when I set the FD "in the middle" of its range there is no chain rub either
>> in small or big cogs, and I think there's still futher leeway for chain
>> angle without rubbing.
>>
>> Also affecting chain angle is chainstay length, but as this the RBW list
>> and not rec.bicycles.tech or Cat.6.fredlist, I'd guess that will not be a
>> problem for you.
>>
>> On Sat, May 11, 2024 at 2:29 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:
>>
>>> I've not used a first-gen DA FD, but I have used a 7400 and a 740n --
>>> either 01 or 02; I think it's the latter. Again, it shifts very well over a
>>> 44/28 and also did so ove a 38/24.
>>>
>>> Now, I may simply be less demanding about FD performance; and I don't
>>> shift the front a great deal (my setups since the 2X9 on the Fargo are 1X +
>>> granny) but when I do shift the front, I don't have any more problems than
>>> I had with more typical road doubles or old-time mtb tripls.
>>>
>>> I do have a chain catcher mounted to the chainstay just aft of the bb to
>>> prevent chain suck, but I first installed that on the Fargo with the
>>> 46/36/24 triple when I was having chainsuck problems; I've not had that
>>> problem with the 2Xs.
>>>
>>> To sum up and answer your question directly re the 1st-gen DA FD: I
>>> guess it will work fine. But if you ask me in court, I'll deny everything.
>>>
>>> Good luck! And keep us informed.
>>>
>>> On Sat, May 11, 2024 at 1:16 PM Robert Calton  wrote:
>>>
>>>> Thanks Patrick! I saw a really nice bottom pull DA front mech used on
>>>> eBay, first gen
>>>> <https://www.ebay.com/itm/156203422002?itmmeta=01HXMGZA1GWNBSX67S31YDQ76P=item245e731132:g:n34AAOSw~59licD5=enc%3AAQAJAAABEF1YcKCwhxvKTsO9pDaGLqEXCL0Zi0kr4wWrhnmkXjTQ2DnCoH2NdAhg7jvIOaNU%2BDO%2B1iOqOy1Mo%2FY0SQofRIqFYHaL9YHrRUAiJDD1GC0OvjtIe0ZVNzEUywGtzFUS5AN19PPQQM0iCrSseVeaxlRJ%2BH1NkJkLh4eT6Pe858pxyG92ZQmkqvsPbPmunr9Erlc40hS3bat4nMl1FFYG5Su3gSBAbk5YwwJj3681dYYD%2FKfndZlcixKY7m6bPtuHcIS9s3dVFNUnFrFam0E%2FFKWNxIDN%2F8Z31DgEyMDXRPQjXvJijx5FBXP4EtaA2hMWmnfebdUiI3Wy6whpTfUGDpFDixjJxbrYTgDIxWgNs%2F8D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-qg_ZDtYw>,
>>>> and it says it has a 16T capacity. Since I'm at 14T differential on my
>>>> front chainrings (38-24),  would this work? Does me running 11-36 cassette
>>>> have anything to do with the front derailleur choice?
>>>>
>>>> On Saturday, May 11, 2024 at 2:54:01 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Robert: About 10 years ago I swapped out a 3X7 drivetrain on my 2010
>>>>> Fargo for a 2X9. The 3X7 consisted of 46/36/24 rings pulling (iirc) a 
>>>>> 15-24
>>>>> 7sp cassette, and I swapped that out for a 38/24 X somet

Re: [RBW] Front derailleur options for 38/24 front, 11-36 rear?

2024-05-11 Thread Patrick Moore
Forgot to address one of your questions: * Does me running 11-36 cassette
have anything to do with the front derailleur choice?*

It might, since with such a small outer cog the chain will be closer to the
chainstay and bottom of the FD cage than with a bigger outer like a 13 or
14. Whether this makes a difference in your case, I cannot say for sure,
but again I'd *guess* that, since you will be using the 11 only with the
38, this won't matter.

There's also the matter of a wider cassette and chain rub on the derailleur
cage. Is your cassette 11 speed or more? If so, I can't speak to that, but
the wider the change in chain angle and the narrower the FD cage (as, for a
1st-gen DA road FD for 5 o 6 speed freewheels) the more chance of chain rub
on the extreme outside and inside cogs unless you trim the FD. For me, I
use my DA 7402 (I am pretty sure) FD with a 10 sp cassette and when I set
the FD "in the middle" of its range there is no chain rub either in small
or big cogs, and I think there's still futher leeway for chain angle
without rubbing.

Also affecting chain angle is chainstay length, but as this the RBW list
and not rec.bicycles.tech or Cat.6.fredlist, I'd guess that will not be a
problem for you.

On Sat, May 11, 2024 at 2:29 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:

> I've not used a first-gen DA FD, but I have used a 7400 and a 740n --
> either 01 or 02; I think it's the latter. Again, it shifts very well over a
> 44/28 and also did so ove a 38/24.
>
> Now, I may simply be less demanding about FD performance; and I don't
> shift the front a great deal (my setups since the 2X9 on the Fargo are 1X +
> granny) but when I do shift the front, I don't have any more problems than
> I had with more typical road doubles or old-time mtb tripls.
>
> I do have a chain catcher mounted to the chainstay just aft of the bb to
> prevent chain suck, but I first installed that on the Fargo with the
> 46/36/24 triple when I was having chainsuck problems; I've not had that
> problem with the 2Xs.
>
> To sum up and answer your question directly re the 1st-gen DA FD: I guess
> it will work fine. But if you ask me in court, I'll deny everything.
>
> Good luck! And keep us informed.
>
> On Sat, May 11, 2024 at 1:16 PM Robert Calton  wrote:
>
>> Thanks Patrick! I saw a really nice bottom pull DA front mech used on
>> eBay, first gen
>> <https://www.ebay.com/itm/156203422002?itmmeta=01HXMGZA1GWNBSX67S31YDQ76P=item245e731132:g:n34AAOSw~59licD5=enc%3AAQAJAAABEF1YcKCwhxvKTsO9pDaGLqEXCL0Zi0kr4wWrhnmkXjTQ2DnCoH2NdAhg7jvIOaNU%2BDO%2B1iOqOy1Mo%2FY0SQofRIqFYHaL9YHrRUAiJDD1GC0OvjtIe0ZVNzEUywGtzFUS5AN19PPQQM0iCrSseVeaxlRJ%2BH1NkJkLh4eT6Pe858pxyG92ZQmkqvsPbPmunr9Erlc40hS3bat4nMl1FFYG5Su3gSBAbk5YwwJj3681dYYD%2FKfndZlcixKY7m6bPtuHcIS9s3dVFNUnFrFam0E%2FFKWNxIDN%2F8Z31DgEyMDXRPQjXvJijx5FBXP4EtaA2hMWmnfebdUiI3Wy6whpTfUGDpFDixjJxbrYTgDIxWgNs%2F8D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-qg_ZDtYw>,
>> and it says it has a 16T capacity. Since I'm at 14T differential on my
>> front chainrings (38-24),  would this work? Does me running 11-36 cassette
>> have anything to do with the front derailleur choice?
>>
>> On Saturday, May 11, 2024 at 2:54:01 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>>> Robert: About 10 years ago I swapped out a 3X7 drivetrain on my 2010
>>> Fargo for a 2X9. The 3X7 consisted of 46/36/24 rings pulling (iirc) a 15-24
>>> 7sp cassette, and I swapped that out for a 38/24 X something-like 13-26 9
>>> speed (29 1/2" Schwalbe Big Apples, then ditto Big Ones).
>>>
>>> The derailleurs were both LX of the period. When I converted the
>>> chainrings I simply swapped the 46 outer for a (BBG) bashguard, swapped the
>>> 36 for a 38, and adjusted the FD throw limit screw. I did *not* change
>>> the position of the FD on the seat tube. After all, the FD shifted the
>>> 36/24 properly in that position, and it's not surprising that it shifted
>>> the 38/24 properly in the same position.
>>>
>>> Later I swapped the LX FD for an ancient Dura Ace FD which I did mount a
>>> bit lower, but for the bottom of the cage to clear the chainstay as well as
>>> for the lower edge of the cage to clear the (IIRC, 48 t-size) bash guard,
>>> the FD had to be placed much where it would have been placed for a
>>> 46/36/24. The DA FD worked just as well as the LX. Again, 38/24 X 15-24 (or
>>> close) drivetrain.
>>>
>>> Nowadays, I have a 44/28 wide-range "subcompact" setup and the same DA
>>> FD positioned high enough above the 44 to clear the 48-t-equivalent
>>> bashguard; here too front shifts are just fine.
>>>
>>> FWIW.
>>>
>>> Matthews "road bike for dirt" with 42/28 (before I installed the 44) and
>>> Du

Re: [RBW] Front derailleur options for 38/24 front, 11-36 rear?

2024-05-11 Thread Patrick Moore
I've not used a first-gen DA FD, but I have used a 7400 and a 740n --
either 01 or 02; I think it's the latter. Again, it shifts very well over a
44/28 and also did so ove a 38/24.

Now, I may simply be less demanding about FD performance; and I don't shift
the front a great deal (my setups since the 2X9 on the Fargo are 1X +
granny) but when I do shift the front, I don't have any more problems than
I had with more typical road doubles or old-time mtb tripls.

I do have a chain catcher mounted to the chainstay just aft of the bb to
prevent chain suck, but I first installed that on the Fargo with the
46/36/24 triple when I was having chainsuck problems; I've not had that
problem with the 2Xs.

To sum up and answer your question directly re the 1st-gen DA FD: I guess
it will work fine. But if you ask me in court, I'll deny everything.

Good luck! And keep us informed.

On Sat, May 11, 2024 at 1:16 PM Robert Calton  wrote:

> Thanks Patrick! I saw a really nice bottom pull DA front mech used on
> eBay, first gen
> <https://www.ebay.com/itm/156203422002?itmmeta=01HXMGZA1GWNBSX67S31YDQ76P=item245e731132:g:n34AAOSw~59licD5=enc%3AAQAJAAABEF1YcKCwhxvKTsO9pDaGLqEXCL0Zi0kr4wWrhnmkXjTQ2DnCoH2NdAhg7jvIOaNU%2BDO%2B1iOqOy1Mo%2FY0SQofRIqFYHaL9YHrRUAiJDD1GC0OvjtIe0ZVNzEUywGtzFUS5AN19PPQQM0iCrSseVeaxlRJ%2BH1NkJkLh4eT6Pe858pxyG92ZQmkqvsPbPmunr9Erlc40hS3bat4nMl1FFYG5Su3gSBAbk5YwwJj3681dYYD%2FKfndZlcixKY7m6bPtuHcIS9s3dVFNUnFrFam0E%2FFKWNxIDN%2F8Z31DgEyMDXRPQjXvJijx5FBXP4EtaA2hMWmnfebdUiI3Wy6whpTfUGDpFDixjJxbrYTgDIxWgNs%2F8D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-qg_ZDtYw>,
> and it says it has a 16T capacity. Since I'm at 14T differential on my
> front chainrings (38-24),  would this work? Does me running 11-36 cassette
> have anything to do with the front derailleur choice?
>
> On Saturday, May 11, 2024 at 2:54:01 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> Robert: About 10 years ago I swapped out a 3X7 drivetrain on my 2010
>> Fargo for a 2X9. The 3X7 consisted of 46/36/24 rings pulling (iirc) a 15-24
>> 7sp cassette, and I swapped that out for a 38/24 X something-like 13-26 9
>> speed (29 1/2" Schwalbe Big Apples, then ditto Big Ones).
>>
>> The derailleurs were both LX of the period. When I converted the
>> chainrings I simply swapped the 46 outer for a (BBG) bashguard, swapped the
>> 36 for a 38, and adjusted the FD throw limit screw. I did *not* change
>> the position of the FD on the seat tube. After all, the FD shifted the
>> 36/24 properly in that position, and it's not surprising that it shifted
>> the 38/24 properly in the same position.
>>
>> Later I swapped the LX FD for an ancient Dura Ace FD which I did mount a
>> bit lower, but for the bottom of the cage to clear the chainstay as well as
>> for the lower edge of the cage to clear the (IIRC, 48 t-size) bash guard,
>> the FD had to be placed much where it would have been placed for a
>> 46/36/24. The DA FD worked just as well as the LX. Again, 38/24 X 15-24 (or
>> close) drivetrain.
>>
>> Nowadays, I have a 44/28 wide-range "subcompact" setup and the same DA FD
>> positioned high enough above the 44 to clear the 48-t-equivalent bashguard;
>> here too front shifts are just fine.
>>
>> FWIW.
>>
>> Matthews "road bike for dirt" with 42/28 (before I installed the 44) and
>> Dura Ace 740-something FD. There must be close to an inch of gap between
>> the bottom of the outer FD cage plate and the top of the teeth of the 42 t
>> ring:
>>
>> [image: image.png]
>>
>> On Sat, May 11, 2024 at 12:35 PM Robert Calton  wrote:
>>
>>> Good afternoon group! :) Hoping to tap into the collective wisdom here
>>> to pick a front derailleur for my Homer build, it's the last piece!
>>>
>>> I'll be using the Silver 38/24 crankset, 11-36 cassette with the Shimano
>>> Deore XT M761 rear derailleur. I saw that the matching XT front says it's
>>> for a triple chainring, so I need to find something that's for a double.
>>>
>>> What would folks recommend?
>>>
>>> --
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>>> an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
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>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/c50dbf4b-e953-4239-bc7a-72d746aeebfcn%40googlegroups.com
>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/c50dbf4b-e953-4239-bc7a-72d746aeebfcn%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
>>> .
>>>
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquer

Re: [RBW] TPU inner tubes - Anyone using them?

2024-05-11 Thread Patrick Moore
Ted: thanks for being an early guinea pig for TPUs, RH TPUs in particular.
Your travails have probably saved others much $$ and grief.

I'd love to use featherlight, more puncture-resistant TPUs in place of the
extralight butyls I now use (with sealant, of course, since this is the
land of goat heads; this for road tires; I use tubeless for fat, very lp
off road tires) but until RH or someone else markets a sealant proven over
time to protect TPUs from thorns and other small penetrants, I'll hold off
to wait and see.

On Sat, May 11, 2024 at 2:06 PM Ted Durant  wrote:

> Update here. I went for a couple of rides, total of 100km, on my new
> 584x48's. They certainly feel nice, and at that volume you really are
> dropping noticeable weight from each wheel. By the end of the second ride I
> was thinking the rear felt a little too cushy. A pinch test said there was
> still plenty of pressure. The next morning, though, the tire was completely
> flat. I removed the tube (quite easily, no issues), inflated it a bit, and
> it seemed to be holding air just fine. I thought that for sure I'd be able
> to see a hole in the clear tubing. I swept the inside of the tire and found
> nothing. So, mounted it back up (easy, no issues), inflated it carefully,
> and set the bike aside. A few hours later I checked and it had lost a lot
> of pressure. So, took it out again (easy, no issues), inflated it and
> started running it through a sink full of water. I finally found a very
> tiny leak. Checking the tire in that location I found a tiny bit of wire in
> the outer tread of the tire but couldn't feel it on the inside. Removed the
> wire, marked the leak location on the tube, wiped with alcohol (removing my
> mark in the process, of course), and after it dried put on a Park glueless
> (I like that my Mac autocorrected that to clueless) patch, praying I put it
> in the right location. I put on the patch with air in the tire, figuring
> it's best not to stretch the patch area too much. Installed again (easy, no
> issues), inflated, and set the bike aside. We'll see if the patch is
> successful. Even if it is, though, I think the "TPU tubes are less prone to
> flats" argument seems to be debunked. Which is too bad. I really want to
> like these, but the rationale is dwindling in my experience.
>
> Ted Durant
> Milwaukee WI USA
>
> --
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> .
>


-- 

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[RBW] Bike commuting, Rivendells, coffee, music, food, etc.

2024-05-11 Thread Patrick Moore
Is this the Rivendell Seoul commuter video that someone posted recently, or
another one? -- This one is dated 05/11/2024, so perhaps a different one.
In case it's the latter, I post it here and now. Either the same or another
very fun watch.

https://youtu.be/IzYSqKLosEo

I'd love to hear of others' commutes:

- How far?
- -What environment (urban, suburban, inner city, bleak industrial exurbs,
rural), terrain (flat, hilly, rolling; windy, still, rainy, dry, humid) and
vegetation (concrete, desert, tropical, temperate, savannah) and traffic
(urban danger, suburban feeder, rural solitude, lucky bike path).
- What bike? Photos and excruciating detail about build.
- Photos!

I used to commute across town (~Coors + Montano NW to ~Central + Juan Tabo
NW, or, earlier, Corrales Road + 528 to Carlisle + Indian School NE or
Unser + Ladera to University + Indian School NE), about 15 to 16 miles
1-way, but stopped June 2008 when I started working at home. But I too
found that a morning commute transformed a dreary day of work drudgery into
a "mini-epic" and "micro-vacation," and I had a local builder (Dave Porter
of long-ago time trial and racing bike fame) convert my "nice" 2003 Riv
Road Custom, that had been largely hanging on the wall while I commuted by
(nice) fixed gear beaters into a *very nice* fixed gear commuter; a
decision I never, ever regretted.

As I said, I now work at home but I use a bike for most of my
transportation, putting 3X the miles on my bike as the 600 miles per year
on my old car (mechanicals in top shape but body rather dented thanks to
daughter's 3-year appropriation during high school), with car continuing
the bike theme with stickers including "Old Man Petersen's Ferrous
Velocipedes & Canvas Curios" and the usual Rivendell favorite, "I Like
Eddy."

I just had a very nice time turning a 6/10 mile RT shopping errand into a
13-mile detour with some modest hills and 4 miles of headwind in the hooks;
that's pretty typical nowadays, with errand distances ranging from 11 to 25
miles and "fun" rides -- paved trails, sandy acequia trails and access
roads -- up to 30 miles on 3 bikes, Rivendell or Rivendell-as-model
customs. (Hope this summer God willing to assemble nice drop bar fixed
gear, 1X or S3X, beater to extend errand riding to places where I have to
lock bike up outside; I've been lucky for so long, being able to park my
bike in my office and wheel it through stores in place of a shopping cart).

I think that (at my age at least, 69)  20 to 25 miles RT would be the ideal
commuting distance, as long as the environment is relatively flat and not
too windy for most of the year. I used to commute 20 to 40 miles RT; 30 to
40 rt even as a young 40- and 50-something became a bit wearing, at least
trying to break 60 minutes clock running on a 67" to 70" fixed gear with
luggage and a 7-mile inbound gradual climb.

Hope to see photos and information about your (all y'all's) commute.

Oh: and your coffee, music, snack food.

Coffee: old man taste: strong, rich, black, no sugar. As a tutor long ago
pronounced, "Coffee is not a sugarable beverage." But generally I drink
English Breakfast with milk and a tsp of sugar.

Music: Bach and Handel, post-psychedelic Jerry Garcia, bluegrass.

Food: New Mexico and Italian.





-- 

Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: Droptube Rivendell Custom 54cm

2024-05-09 Thread Patrick Moore
List master willing, I'd love to hear more about Rivendell listers'
motorcycles. I've toyed with the idea of getting one but always decided
that for the price of a decent secondary-road motorbike I could buy a Clem
or buy a new (used) car.

The only "motor-cycle" I ever rode was a 50 cc (? -- I'm guessing; it
wasn't powerful*) Vespa circa 1973, belonging to a girl in my class -- she
commuted to school on it; she on back giggling while I flubbed the
twist-shifts.

* The road to our school was a ~1 mile prepared dirt road ending in a very,
very steep, curving 1/4-mile long hill. I'd always gag myself honking up it
on my bike in the lowest gear after a fast ride to school. I recall the
Vespa with 2 passengers (friend was not exactly svelte) almost stalling as
I frantically tried to find 1st; I did manage to do so and thus avoided
falling over.

On Thu, May 9, 2024 at 6:05 PM Joe Bernard  wrote:

> Just so's y'all know, I rode the motorbikes for decades. I got a refresher
> course and decided to give it another whirl. It will be a used bike, maybe
> a Harley Sportster, this is HOG country up here. The point of the thread is
> to sell a bicycle! 
>
> On Thursday, May 9, 2024 at 3:00:14 PM UTC-7 Mark R. wrote:
>
>>
>> Motorcycles are addicting. I’ve been riding street since 1989 to get
>> around town, it was safer to commute at night than
>> my bicycle.  My opinion is to buy a used smaller bike, see how it feels,
>> before you sink money into it
>>
>> I got rid of one bike because it was too slow and loud. The next because
>> it was too tall and I had trouble reaching the
>> ground at lights. Then I found the Perfect fit for me and put 40k miles
>> on that Moto.
>> As it stands , I hardly ever use my car (about 2k miles since 2019) . I
>> put 22k one bike and 2k on another till last year.
>> This year I’m on track to 10k, this bike is new and fresh with all the
>> latest safety features.
>> Mark R
>> SDCA
>>
>>
>> --
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> .
>


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Re: [RBW] Riv-rafting

2024-05-09 Thread Patrick Moore
Got it; again, sounds very interesting. I see that Alpacka boats retail
basically for the price of an entry-level Clem.

I should probably buy an entry level Clem first, though.

On Thu, May 9, 2024 at 4:27 PM John Rinker  wrote:

> Hello Patrick. No trailer needed as, you guessed it, the raft rolls into a
> tidy little 5lb burrito and fits very nicely on the rack. In addition to
> the photos of the raft with the bike, I should have taken a photo of the
> bike with the raft on it!
>
> Cheers, John
>
> On Thursday, May 9, 2024 at 3:05:53 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> That looks very tempting. I can't make out a trailer; does the boat fold
>> up small enought to be carried on a rack?
>>
>> I'm 1/4 mile crow-directly west through bosque scrub from the Rio Grande
>> and it's an easy and pleasant ride north on a paved recreation trail to
>> various possible insertion points. In fact, my next door neighbors have a
>> couple of inflatable canoes which they generally drive north to entry
>> points, float back south, then drive the other car to pick up the first
>> one; tho' husband Chris some years ago did drive north, float south, then
>> rode his bike back north to get his car.
>>
>> On Thu, May 9, 2024 at 12:07 PM John Rinker  wrote:
>>
>>> Hey Sue,
>>>
>>> I haven't tried my boat without a bike yet, but I did paddle one a few
>>> years back *sans bicyclette *and I remember it being like any other
>>> raft without a keel- kind of squirreley.
>>> With the bike, however, it handles very nicely indeed. Alpacka makes
>>> other such rafts for use without a bicycle, and I imagine these track much
>>> better.
>>>
>>> Yes, the bicycle is attached at 4 lashing points with Voile-type straps,
>>> and the wheels with bungee cords. It's all very solid and stable. If there
>>> was a chance that my bike would end up at the bottom of the river, I'd
>>> think twice.
>>>
>>> Maybe this photo shows it a bit better:
>>> [image: IMG_3267 (1).jpeg]
>>> Cheers, John
>>>
>>> On Thursday, May 9, 2024 at 8:13:40 AM UTC-7 Sue J wrote:
>>>
>>>> John, I am curious to know how this craft behaves if there is no bike
>>>> in the bow. Did you give that a try?
>>>> Also, do you secure the bike in the bow, or if you capsize would it
>>>> sink to the bottom of the waterway?
>>>>
>>>> Sue
>>>>
>>>> On Thursday, May 9, 2024 at 7:19:46 AM UTC-7 Curtis wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Looks like a great adventure.  Enjoy.
>>>>>
>>>>> Curtis
>>>>>
>>>>> On Wed, May 8, 2024, 7:18 PM John Rinker  wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> After several months in a box, I finally took my pack raft for its
>>>>>> maiden voyage down the Salt River.
>>>>>> [image: IMG_3282.jpeg]
>>>>>> I rode 20k out to the put-in, and in about 30 minutes was ready to
>>>>>> shove off. The Alpacka raft is a fine design that has exceeded my
>>>>>> expectations for comfort, stability, and maneuverability. My tall bike 
>>>>>> and
>>>>>> body fit just fine. It's a super fun boat!
>>>>>> [image: IMG_3271.jpeg]
>>>>>> If you love riding and rivers, this is the way to go!
>>>>>>
>>>>>> [image: IMG_3308.jpeg]
>>>>>> Cheers, John
>>>>>>
>>>>>> --
>>>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>>>>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>>>>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it,
>>>>>> send an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
>>>>>> To view this discussion on the web visit
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>>>>>> .
>>>>>>
>>>>> --
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Re: [RBW] Snake-in-a-bike

2024-05-08 Thread Patrick Moore
He wanted to examine the YG's lugwork up close.

I often come across snakes on paved recreational trails in the bosque at
this time of year, as the pavement warms up but while the thicket is still
cool. I don't stop to see how they're doing, so I don't determine the type,
but rattlesnakes are common here, and I've heard the buzz of rattles before
as I skimmed past a snake's nose.

Lizards too: I barely missed a few tails recently of lizards sunning
themselves in the middle of the asphalt.

On Wed, May 8, 2024 at 7:36 AM Allan McLane  wrote:

> Here's a tale from the “Well, I never thought I’d see that” department…
>
> This afternoon I was out on the Yvez Gomez, exercising the dog, when we
> encountered a smooth green snake (Opheodrys vernalis), sunning itself in
> the middle of the road. I stopped next to the snake to maneuver it to the
> side but it decided to climb up my back wheel spokes and inspect the
> interior of the cassette instead. After several failed attempts to nudge it
> along, it exited the cassette, went forward along the chainstay, and
> completely entered the fender, going up.
>
> To extract it from the inside of the fender I slowly rolled the bike
> backwards until the snake popped out the rear and onto the ground. At this
> point it had gotten the message well and slithered off into the stone wall.
>
> For the curious, full photo documentation here:
> https://flic.kr/s/aHBqjBpqQB
> <https://flic.kr/s/aHBqjBpqQB>
>
> Allan in Marlboro, Vt
>
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Re: [RBW] FD shifters and why not friction

2024-05-05 Thread Patrick Moore
I forgot to add that the one summer I worked in a bike shop, a great deal
of my work was tuneups for low-end '90s mtbs that had been sitting in
garages or sheds for years. Many came with Grip Shift. I don't recall ever
one of these systems being unrepairable, tho' I did occasionally find
unrepairable Shimano trigger shifters. Cheap plastic, not the most precise
shifters, but apparently pretty indestructible. Still, I too prefer
friction.

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Re: [RBW] FD shifters and why not friction

2024-05-05 Thread Patrick Moore
Pics of the Ridge Searcher? (And who comes up with these names? It's as bad
as pharmaceuticals.)

As to why bike mfrs complicate what is really a very simple and easily
learned action -- shifting a chain to different cogs or rings -- I think
it's largely marketing: #1: make it idiot-proof (*) so that you don't scare
away neophytes and therefore can sell more bikes, and #2: make it more
"techie" so that you attract more buyers interested in "latest and
greatest" who after purchase will leave the bike in the garage for 15 years
until a relative posts it on Craigslist.

I'm exaggerating, but I do think that these 2 motives drive much innovation
-- some of which, I grant, ends up being very, very useful indeed --
clipless pedals, modern LED lighting, plastic-base saddles (sorry, tho'
just bought B17N, love the original Flite), aero levers, close ratio fixed
IGHs. (Wait ...)

Really, to fully inoculate yourself against all this sort of thing, reduce
your entire bike stable to fixed gears.

Patrick Moore, who fondly remembers hot-rodding a 1992 XO-1 with purple
anodized 370 gram Sun M14As, Specialized 26X1" Turbos, a 12-19 7-sp with
Topline SL triple, and Twist Grip (tm) drop bar shifters (they worked --
not badly; you did have to very slightly overshift for best performance).

On Sun, May 5, 2024 at 3:43 PM George Schick  wrote:

> I recently finished rehabbing a '95 Schwinn "Ridge Searcher" that was in
> very neglected condition.  It was given to a lady who has little or no
> money by someone who had "stored the bike away in the basement" for many
> years without any maintenance.  Bad a shape as it was in - and it was
> pretty darn bad - I only had to replace two major components, the BB and
> the chain.  Having cleaned everything up (which included two hours in an
> ultrasonic tank to get the cassette knocked loose of all the built up grime
> and lots and lots of elbow grease on other parts) I finally began to
> reassemble everything last week.  And although the cleaned and lubed RD
> worked just fine, I had a devil of a time getting the FD to work properly
> over the three chainrings.
>
> And, of course, this was one of those bikes with upright bars and those
> accursed "twist lock" shifters.  The RD shifter on the right side of the
> bar worked OK with little adjustment necessary of the RD.  But the FD was a
> nightmare which included multiple tightenings of the shift cable,
> penetrating lube on the FD pivoting points, etc. in order to get it dialed
> in properly.  And, also of course, it too was a three-position twist lock
> shifter on the left side of the bar.
>
> The main reason I'm bringing this rant to this forum is to agree with
> Grant's recent Blahg about the over-the-top work that some bike manf's are
> doing with something along the lines of AI in order to insure that the FD
> gets positioned properly in relationship with the cassette cog in which the
> rear is positioned.  Grant's premise is that nothing could be simpler than
> shifting the FD back and forth and manually "trimming" it to accommodate
> whatever gear the rear happens to be in at the moment.  I couldn't agree
> more.  This "twist shift" business is bad enough in some respects for the
> RD, but couldn't be more of a of a disaster for the FD.  Why bring about
> yet another costly intervention that would be completely unnecessary if
> riders would just take the time to learn how to "feel an adjustment" into
> place instead of relying on some next generation gadget to do their work
> for them!  Could be DT shifters, barcons, stem shifters - doesn't matter as
> long as they require a bit of manual adjustment on the part of the rider.
>
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[RBW] Re: Searching for the National Collegiate cycling championships

2024-05-05 Thread Patrick Moore
Sheesh. Clock *running.*

On Sun, May 5, 2024 at 3:21 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:

> ... 18.14 miles averaging 13.21 mph with clock very much stopped for all
> the lollygagging and backtracking at the Balloon Park and elsewhere.
>

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[RBW] Re: Searching for the National Collegiate cycling championships

2024-05-05 Thread Patrick Moore
Oh, and Leah: you really must give a good quality, light, and well set up
drop-bar road bike a try. Really, for modestly energetic riding there is,
IMO, nothing like a well designed drop bar (ie: Maes Parallel). If your new
road bike fit you as well as this bike fits me, you'd be twice as fast as I.

On Sun, May 5, 2024 at 3:21 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:

> A local news station reported yesterday (
> https://www.kob.com/new-mexico/new-mexico-to-host-usa-cycling-collegiate-road-national-championships-this-weekend/)
>   that,
> after the road race this morning there would be criteriums at the
> International Balloon Park, a nice ride on good paved trails easily
> accessible from my house. So early afternoon I rode out to see what I could
> find, which was no sign at all of any competitive cycling; only other
> Sunday recreational cyclists like me.
>
> But it was a nice ride. Warm -- about 80* -- partly cloudy (you
> flatlanders don't know how strong the sun feels at mid day at 5K+ feet --
> oven; with the shaded thermometer at the front door showing an air temp of
> 40*, I can sit outside on my back patio in the morning winter sun in a
> t-shirt if it's not windy), and I rode everyone's acknowledged best bicycle
> of all time, the '99 Joe Starck etc. Strong tailwind outbound so I could
> spin to warm up, then 9 miles home against the strong Southerly at 21 gusts
> to 32; 6+ of those in the hooks pushing the 76" gear (because we hard men
> don't bother to stop and move the chain to the 68' granny).
>
> But seriously, altogether a very nice ride: 18.14 miles averaging 13.21
> mph with clock very much stopped for all the lollygagging and backtracking
> at the Balloon Park and elsewhere. Cyclemeter recorded 27.31 mph as my
> fastest speed, which with a 76" gear would be 121 r's pee em, but on the
> return much slogging in the hooks at 30-40 r's pm.
>
> But even more seriously: I like riding into winds and up hills on fixed
> gears -- as long as the hills aren't too long or the headwind stretches too
> extended; 6-7 miles against the wind today was good; when it gusted, my
> left knee started to twinge as it has since 1970 when in complete and full
> ignorance I geared my very first from-scratch bike at 90". But thank God,
> the left (and right) knee remains healthy at 69. As for hills, I am too old
> to grunt a 70" (I've done 75") gear up 7 miles of Tramway, but I hope to
> get onto that hill again this year with the SA TF hub -- 75% underdrive for
> a 57" climbing gear and a direct *with no last* for comfortable spinning
> back downhill.
>
> Pictures show it happened or that I'm very good at Photoshop. Pic 1: I
> meandered my way toward some tents hoping that they would contain
> criteriums but, nope. Pic 2: the main building and exhibit hall.
>
> --
>
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
> ---
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> Executive resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, letters, and other writing
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>
> *But wouldst gabble like a** thing most brutish,*
>
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>


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Re: [RBW] Sonoma Wine Country Century tomorrow! Anyone else?

2024-05-03 Thread Patrick Moore
Please post photos, of bike and bikes, route, countryside, and vintages,
and describe all in excessive detail.

The nearby delightfully libertarian (as to HOA-type building standards*;
the libertarian social and political philosophy is false) "horsey suburb,"
Corrales, hosts an annual wine tour, tho' only for NM and not for the far
more numerous and I daresay worthy CA wines. I've been tempted, but the
thought of riding a fixed gear home south against a strong afternoon
headwind while pleasantly lethargic under the influence of many, many
samples has made me hesitate; not to mention the traffic. How does one deal
with this?

*$2M "estates" with ancient, crumbling, 600 sq foot adobes and singlewides,
locally top-rated restaurants and burrito shacks, rich Anglo incomers and
Hispano farmers resident since the 17th century, ancient acequia trails and
Loma Largo blvd where one winter circa 2010 I saw a Euro pro team training
in prep for the Tour at 5K feet in cool, sunny weather.

On Fri, May 3, 2024 at 10:11 AM Pancake  wrote:

> The Charlie H Gallop prototype is heading out for 100 miles tomorrow in
> Santa Rosa, basket and rain and all. Anyone else going to be on the ride
> tomorrow?
> https://ridewithgps.com/routes/29272184
> I’ve done this once before (my only prior Century) and it was wonderful …
> but it didn’t include tomorrow’s predicted 1” of rain peaking just before
> the ride begins.
>
> Related to rain: I have a light rain resistant jacket, partial fenders
> (MudX in front and Portland folding in back), and wool socks … any other
> suggestions for how to keep a bit dry and to dry out while riding? There’s
> a gear drop off point about 1/3rd of the way through which is when the rain
> should be receding, so I can ditch some gear. I’m just curious how the bits
> under my shorts will fair, I’m optimistic a bit of wind and time will dry
> me out when possible. Definitely time to get out the Brooks seat cover too!
>
> Finally, I’ve never really “carb loaded” beyond having rice or pasta
> before a ride. But I bonked last weekend on a 50 mile ride (albeit without
> really eating much of anything before). Anyone have a preferred liquid carb
> filled drink so I don’t fill my body with just rice and corn flakes?
>
> Hope everyone gets a great ride in this weekend!
> Abe
>
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Re: [RBW] WTB/ Rear Rack Advice

2024-05-03 Thread Patrick Moore
Until I started getting customs made I always chose the Tubus Fly (it comes
in ss and titanium as well as in black powdercoat) because (1) it is rated
for 20 kg, (2) is it minimalist and very light (sub 15 grams, about the
weight of the chromo Matthews custom on the RBFD), and it fits frames
without  chainstay braze ons (uses a bracket that bolts to the brake pivot
bolt or to a bolt through the b-p-b hole in the brake bridge).

I've carried many 40 lb loads and up to ~50 lb on many Fys on flexy 531 and
alum frames with no problems, tho' short shopping trips and not global
tours on bad dirt roads. For that I'd choose the Tubus Cargo Evo rack,
which I also once used, only for my purposes it was grossly overbuilt.
Rated to 26 kg but *tested* to 40 kg -- I'll let others parse the
difference. Or perhas the Cargo Classic? I think Tubus have down-rated
their racks by a few kg since I last bought one.

The Ultima Thule and Ne Plus Ultra and entirely Sic Itur Ad Astra rack of
all of them bar none at all is the Tubus Airy that is made of shiny
titanium, weighs 360 grams, and is mfr rated to 26 kg; I think the
*deustche* means, "tested to 30 kg."


   - 26 kg | 57.3 lbs (getestet mit 30 kg*)
   <https://www.tubus.com/en/company#c424>


$375 on everyone's favorite, vendor-squeezing, discount retail platform.

If my "road bike for errands" were 700C I'd be sorely tempted, but in fact
it uses 559 wheels and sports a stainless steel Fly shortened by a frame
builder.



On Fri, May 3, 2024 at 10:34 AM Stephen Durfee  wrote:

> Looking for a rear rack for my trusty All Rounder, something that will
> support panniers for some summer excursions...perhaps something like the
> Shiny Rear Rack. Does anyone have an extra they would be looking to
> offload? Or, suggestion for something more appropriate?
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Eric M.'s new video: Shop tour, favorite workshops, tool organization and my next bicycle build

2024-04-29 Thread Patrick Moore
Oh, and I forwarded the video link to Jeremiah; he will appreciate it.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Eric M.'s new video: Shop tour, favorite workshops, tool organization and my next bicycle build

2024-04-29 Thread Patrick Moore
Lovely garden, lovely shed, lovely workshop. Noted the trellises; will keep
in mind to support my trumpet vines.

I recall trying to start a garden -- various hot peppers, tomatoes -- in my
first summer, 2004, at my present house. Xeriscaped -- water is expensive!
-- but dug up sandy soil and fertilized and mulched in SE corner of yard
against typical cinderblock wall. No good; backyard is south, blasted by
violent summer 5K feet altitude summer sun; even covering the ~6'X6' garden
didn't help. This even tho' I'm literally 100' from the cottonwood bosque.
Next year tried big pots on porch; got a few stunted habaneros; gave up.
(OTOH, trumpet vines do just fine backed up against cinderblock walls in
blast-furnace sun, as long as you give them a bit of water 2X per week.)

I envy all y'all's moist, green landscapes -- until I go for a pleasant
ride at 2 pm in July at 102*F at 4% humidity.

On Sun, Apr 28, 2024 at 8:41 PM Eric Marth  wrote:

> Wow, thanks for the kind words, Jim! Always a pleasure, sorry this one's
> so long. The uncut version was like 2 hours.
>
> On Sunday, April 28, 2024 at 11:32:09 AM UTC-4 J J wrote:
>
>> So good, a pleasure to watch. Thanks for the great work, Eric!
>>
>> Check it out here:
>>
>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mMf-7Kq-g8k
>>
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Favorite clip-in/flat pedal combo?

2024-04-28 Thread Patrick Moore
Corwin: tangent, but related: will you please post a photo or photos of
your Hon Solo?

I bought, modified, and rode one for several years back before my daughter
had her license (and took over my car), and when I had to chauffeur her
around. I'd put the HS in the boot of the compact, drive her to her
piano/drawing/skating lesson, and then go take a ride for the hour or so
wait.

I first set the HS up with a (Ritchey, IIRC) bullhorn, then with an
original-edition Moustache bar; neither were comfortable for more than a
few miles, but then I didn't ride the HS more than a few miles.

I geared it at about 70", and I fondly recall Catie's skating lessons at
the top of the long Tramway hill: I'd spin-out the HS downhill about 4
miles to the Sandia Indian casino, then stand and grunt it back up. Or I'd
take it down the adjacent neighborhoods and get my climbing in going up and
down steep residential streets.

But it was never a fully "comfortable" setup and I sold it on once Catie
could drive herself in my car.

On Sun, Apr 28, 2024 at 2:34 PM Corwin Zechar  wrote:

> Hi Glen -
>
> I have MKS Ezy pedals on my Dahon Hon Solo. Have not tried clipless. I
> imagine it would work well. The Ezys come off easy once you know the trick.
>
> Regards,
>
>
> Corwin
> On Wednesday, April 24, 2024 at 1:42:16 PM UTC-7 Glen wrote:
>
>> Following on to this; has anyone here used the MKS ezy pedal system to
>> easily swap between flats and clipless?
>>
>>
>>
>> On Wednesday, April 24, 2024 at 1:41:02 PM UTC-6 John Bokman wrote:
>>
>>> Rivsters:
>>>
>>> I've ridden many many years on Speedplay Frogs with great enjoyment.
>>> I've also ridden for years on flat pedals (MKS Sylvan Touring are my
>>> favorite) with great enjoyment.
>>>
>>> I'm now curious about trying something I thought I'd never try: A
>>> clipless-flat combo pedal.  Because there are times  - especially on longer
>>> rides - when I want more foot support than my flat pedals provide. (Yes,
>>> I've used larger flat pedals - VP Vice - and found no effective difference
>>> to my MKS Sylvan in this regard.)
>>>
>>> So for those of you who still ride clipless, and who in fact use a combo
>>> pedal: What's your favorite?
>>>
>>> John
>>>
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Re: [RBW] Rivendell (Roadini) Geometry

2024-04-28 Thread Patrick Moore
On Sat, Apr 27, 2024 at 8:23 PM Jay  wrote:

> ... I measure setback on both bikes and the Fargo is coming out as saddle
> 5.5cm setback from BB, 7cm on the Roadini.
>

There's the reason for the difference. I've always (well, since Grant
taught me to do this 30 years ago) started assembly and fit with saddle
height, setback, and angle, then, after getting the saddle in place, put
the bar a more or less standard distance from and height below the saddle
nose. I do modify  bar reach and height for bikes used off road but my body
position is much the same on all my bikes even if my bar is higher but
further forward.

Sometimes a more reward position can be *more comfortable* because it takes
weight off your shoulders, etc, because when butt-back and bent forward
sufficiently your torso muscles carry more of the weight.

Of course, you have to decide what a good setback is for comfort (including
weight off your shoulders, arms, and hands) and power and handling -- also,
how you'll use the bike: see below -- but in my case bb setback is about
the same for all my bikes.

Peter Jon White has an excellent article on bike setup starting with saddle
setback: https://www.peterwhitecycles.com/fitting.php

... Now we get to what I think is the most important part of fitting a
bicycle, the fore-aft position of the saddle. Once you get this right,
everything else is easy. This position is determined more by how you intend
to use your bike than by anything else. If you look at a typical bike, the
saddle is behind the crank center, or bottom bracket. There's a frame tube
(the seat tube) running from the cranks to the saddle, and it's at an
angle. That angle partly determines the fore-aft position of the saddle
relative to the cranks and pedals. That fore-aft position determines how
your body is balanced on the bicycle. Your balance determines how
comfortable you are, and how efficiently you can pedal the bike.

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Re: [RBW] The 3x1 road bike. Anticipating some of your RoadUNO builds

2024-04-27 Thread Patrick Moore
On Sat, Apr 27, 2024 at 11:40 AM Patrick Moore  wrote:

> ... With horizontals or track ends and a good steel internal cam QR you
> could have yourself a very good time without the need for a lousy (and FWIW
> considerably less that I paid for my TF hub). A  44 X 17/20/24 would give
> you 70", 60", and 50", a good spread with relatively unobtrusive hardware
> and bulk.
>

Well, not quite, as you'd need very long dropouts/track ends indeed to
accommodate 7 teeth: almost a good *usable* Inch of axle travel -- usable
travel is not at all the same as theoretical travel. And as for a chain
tensioner: with a single rear cog and 3 rings your tensioner would not have
to move laterally as the chain was shifted, while 2 or 3 cogs would require
chain tensioner re-alignment. So I've argued myself into agreeing with the
3X1 idea. Only, the ideal system for 3 wide ratio gears is the IGH.

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Re: [RBW] The 3x1 road bike. Anticipating some of your RoadUNO builds

2024-04-27 Thread Patrick Moore
We had a similar conversation back in February and, among the topic
discussed was, why 3X1 instead of 1X3? Bill pointed out that commercially
available 3 speed fws of good quality with huge tooth gaps are hard to
find, whereas anyone can find a triple crank.

But I keep coming back to theoretical efficiencies: IIRC, the gearing
effect of tooth jumps in back are more or less double what they are in
front. So the question is, how to get just 2 or 3 big jumps in back without
a IGH.

Question: I've never followed BMX, but IIRC I've read of 2-speed BMX
freehubs; was that really a thing? If so, perhaps that would be the ideal
low-cog-count/big-ratio-jump system. And then there are those packages of
spacers and ss HG-freehub-compatible kits that allow you to use just 1 --
or a few -- cogs on your 7-8-9-etc.-speed freehub.

Long ago I asked Phil Wood & Co. if they'd build me a fixed hub that would
accept 3 sprockets. They replied, "Sure! Figure on about $400" -- this in
circa 2000 dollars which per the DoL Inflation Calculator is ~$740 in 2024
monopoly money. With horizontals or track ends and a good steel internal
cam QR you could have yourself a very good time without the need for a
lousy (and FWIW considerably less that I paid for my TF hub). A  44 X
17/20/24 would give you 70", 60", and 50", a good spread with relatively
unobtrusive hardware and bulk.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Used but good ASC hub for $139 shipped from England, with usable shifter

2024-04-24 Thread Patrick Moore
And sorry for the upside-down shell; trigger is rightside-up.

On Wed, Apr 24, 2024 at 3:25 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:

> On Wed, Apr 24, 2024 at 3:11 PM Ian A  wrote:
>
>> 1) Thank you for the correct use of "could not care less", instead of the
>> incorrect "could care less".
>
>
> I confess that I caught myself using the wrong phrase, but catch it I did.
>
>
>> 2) We are still awaiting closure, from the original thread about this
>> exact hub, whether it is the genuine article.
>>
>
> It is genuine; at least, this is the genuine shell, driver, and cog and
> indicator spindle. Might have AW innards, but again seller has vg rating.
>
>
>> 3) Wil this hub be rebuilt and reconditioned and if so, who will do
>> rebuild?
>>
>
> Right now it is meant as a backup to the NOS ASC in use on the Matthews
> Riv clone.
>
> I plan to open it up and clean and re-assemble, after practicing on a
> donated AW hub and on my long-unused S3X hub. By that time it might be too
> late to catch a crook, but I think I'll chance it. I've got until the end
> of May to send it to Seattle to get Aaron's review.
>
>
>> 4) Pictures or it didn't happen (even if it did).
>>
>
> Attached, with a photo of the NDS and DS of the NOS one currently in use.
>
>>
>> IanA Alberta Canada
>> On Wednesday, April 24, 2024 at 1:33:36 PM UTC-6 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>>> I know that this list could not care less about hub gears, but I'm
>>> chuffed, as they say. I got a  used but still vg (per the seller with high
>>> rating; must disassemble and see for myself; has 50 or 60 years of dried
>>> lubricant inside) Holy Grail of hub gears, a 1950 ASC, missing proprietary
>>> shifter, but with the sole other SA shifter that can be modified (and may
>>> have been modified already; have question in to seller) for the peculiar
>>> cable pull required by this hub.
>>>
>>> It is a backup/eventual parts donor for the NOS one currently in use in
>>> the Matthews Riv Road errand clone that was modified by Aaron in Seattle
>>> with a modern, 32-hole aluminum shell (with properly modern thick flanges!)
>>> and threaded driver (instead of proprietary 12-spline driver for very rare
>>> 1/8" proprietary SA cogs) for either Surly fixed cog (currently 17 t 3/32")
>>> or ss freewheel. I've been riding this hub instead of the earlier AM
>>> because it has better ratios: direct/high/3rd, 90%/underdrive/2nd, and
>>> 75%/underdrive/1st, for 72"/65"/54" instead of the AM's freewheel 75"/115%
>>> overdrive/third, 65" direct/second, and 56" 86.54%/underdrive/first. The
>>> 3rd-2nd gap is better on the ASC.
>>>
>>> And it's all silver! With aluminum shell.
>>>
>>> Just made a short but very pleasant detoured grocery run, carrying home
>>> 39 lb in front and rear Ortlieb roll-tops.
>>>
>>> I know you don't care, but I do and I had to crow.
>>>
>>> Over and out.
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Used but good ASC hub for $139 shipped from England, with usable shifter

2024-04-24 Thread Patrick Moore
I know that this list could not care less about hub gears, but I'm chuffed,
as they say. I got a  used but still vg (per the seller with high rating;
must disassemble and see for myself; has 50 or 60 years of dried lubricant
inside) Holy Grail of hub gears, a 1950 ASC, missing proprietary shifter,
but with the sole other SA shifter that can be modified (and may have been
modified already; have question in to seller) for the peculiar cable pull
required by this hub.

It is a backup/eventual parts donor for the NOS one currently in use in the
Matthews Riv Road errand clone that was modified by Aaron in Seattle with a
modern, 32-hole aluminum shell (with properly modern thick flanges!) and
threaded driver (instead of proprietary 12-spline driver for very rare 1/8"
proprietary SA cogs) for either Surly fixed cog (currently 17 t 3/32") or
ss freewheel. I've been riding this hub instead of the earlier AM because
it has better ratios: direct/high/3rd, 90%/underdrive/2nd, and
75%/underdrive/1st, for 72"/65"/54" instead of the AM's freewheel 75"/115%
overdrive/third, 65" direct/second, and 56" 86.54%/underdrive/first. The
3rd-2nd gap is better on the ASC.

And it's all silver! With aluminum shell.

Just made a short but very pleasant detoured grocery run, carrying home 39
lb in front and rear Ortlieb roll-tops.

I know you don't care, but I do and I had to crow.

Over and out.

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Re: [RBW] Rivendell Roadbike Curious

2024-04-22 Thread Patrick Moore
tem. I rarely get into the drops. With the
>>> Albastache and Mustache, I find I have more riding positions.
>>>
>>> Have fun on your road bike, whatever you get.
>>>
>>> Regards,
>>>
>>>
>>> Corwin
>>> On Sunday, April 21, 2024 at 2:07:47 PM UTC-7 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding!
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I promise not to be offended by a great wave of advice coming my way
>>>> here - I have asked for it and you all have kindly delivered.
>>>>
>>>> Ok, ok….I really will consider drop bars. But I do wonder…everyone says
>>>> they offer so many hand positions; but I only see people with their hands
>>>> on the hoods. Are riders really utilizing different hand positions?
>>>>
>>>> Also, I saw a pic of an albastache with brake levers in the middle of
>>>> the bar. Would this mimic the freedom of hand position changes a drop bar
>>>> offers?
>>>>
>>>> I practiced tonight on my ride by grabbing the front of my Billie bars.
>>>> It felt nice to be stretched out like that, but with no access to brakes or
>>>> shifters from there I didn’t like to stay long. Unnerving.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>
>>>> On Apr 21, 2024, at 4:54 PM, Patrick Moore  wrote:
>>>>
>>>> 
>>>>
>>>> This is going to be a fun thread. Please don't take a great volume of
>>>> advice as condescending; I think that this thread will elicit a very large
>>>> amount of love for road bikes as a distinct genus of bicycle.
>>>>
>>>> I think you very particularly will benefit a great deal from the right
>>>> road bike and that once you get things basically sorted you will find that
>>>> you enjoy it immensely for the kind of riding you describe. There is a
>>>> perfection of fit and feel and a real pleasure in riding a well set up
>>>> traditional road bike -- I don't mean racing bike -- that you don't find
>>>> with other combinations of frame, saddle, bar, and their relative
>>>> positions. Really, this sort of setup on the right sort of frame is
>>>> *more* comfortable, *more* natural, *more* pleasant for energetic
>>>> riding than other setups; at least, I've always found it so, and there's a
>>>> reason why the traditional road bike was developed so quickly after the
>>>> chain-driven safety was invented and why it has remained largely the same
>>>> for going on for 150 years.
>>>>
>>>> Note: I don't say that *everyone* who rides energetically should have
>>>> a road bike, but everyone who does so and can try ought at least to give
>>>> one a try. Again, there is an efficiency and comfort -- really, a "fit"
>>>> like that of a custom suit or perfect tool -- offered by an intelligently
>>>> spec'd and set up road bike that, you don't -- or at least, *I don't,* --
>>>> get with any other sort of bike.
>>>>
>>>> Me, based on my experience, I'd certainly start by keeping my eye out
>>>> for a used Roadeo or Riv Road or LongLow or Ram or Heron. But for the final
>>>> and perfect version, I'd not close my mind a priori to other makes. I am
>>>> guessing, but I would not be surprised if, after your usual rapid learning
>>>> cycle, this time with a road bike, you end up with a custom. My favorite
>>>> bike of all time out of several scores is a custom Riv Road, but I've owned
>>>> 2 other Riv Road customs plus a Ram (and the Sam) not to mention many other
>>>> road bikes, and I've sold them all on to finally get what for me is belated
>>>> perfection in the 2 Matthews customs  -- tho' these used the Rivs as
>>>> general design templates.
>>>>
>>>> I rode the gofast Riv fixie road bike to and from church today with the
>>>> usual annoying NE winds while inbound N and E and the usual SW winds on
>>>> return N and W. For the umpteen millionth time I remarked to myself at how
>>>> pleasant it was to be able to drop "intuitively" into the hooks when
>>>> turning into a wind, or to grab the long (Maes Parallel) ramps when
>>>> pushing, butt-back and elbows bent, up an incline, or sitting up and
>>>> holding the flats or the flat/ramp transition and spinning when the wind
>>>> became a tailwind.
>>>>
>>>> I've certainly passed my speed demon days, bu

Re: [RBW] Re: TPU inner tubes - Anyone using them?

2024-04-22 Thread Patrick Moore
I'm watching TPUs, RH TPUs in particular, for possible use if they find a
workable sealant, and this fails to inspire confidence, particularly as RH
claims strong metal valves as a competitive advantage. But presumably RH
will replace or refund for the defective tubes?

On Mon, Apr 22, 2024 at 10:51 AM Ted Durant  wrote:

> On Monday, April 22, 2024 at 7:02:25 AM UTC-5 lconley wrote:
>
> FYI - The RH instructions say to inflate slowly and immediately deflate
> the tubes completely after the tire pops into position, then reinflate.
>
>
> Well, I put them on my Riv Road today, was very careful with the
> installation, and had the same result. One of the tubes broke at the valve
> stem immediately on inflation in the tire. The rims are narrow Fir, and the
> tires are a pretty tight fit. I used levers to remove the tire but was able
> to reinstall without levers. New tires with only a few rides on them.
>
> So, I've needed 6 tubes to get 4 tires going. That makes the economics a
> little harder to justify. It also makes carrying a new one as a spare a bit
> of Russian roulette.
>
> Ted Durant
> Milwaukee WI USA
>
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Re: [RBW] Rivendells in South Korea

2024-04-21 Thread Patrick Moore
It is very definitely permitted to post such interesting videos here;
thanks for doing so. I particularly enjoyed (out of the 2 I've watched) the
grocery shopping one. + 1 for riding a Riv to make mundane chores into
modest and wholly appealing adventures.

Please tell us where you are from, what you do, and why you are living in
Seoul?

Also, please tell us who makes your panniers and what the model is.

I do almost all my errands and commuting by bike (not that there's a great
deal to do, but =/< 600 miles per year on my car for the last many years),
but while these rides traverse pleasant routes they're not the sort that
merits videotaping. If I were say in Old Town Albuquerque it might be
different.

Others in interesting locales, please post videos of your own errand rides.

Patrick Moore, who lived in Old Town Quebec and remembers Empress
(Victoria!) market in Karachi where flies outnumbered (the thousands of)
people by many orders of magnitude..


On Sun, Apr 21, 2024 at 11:10 AM Marcus Gomersall <
probablyridingmyb...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Hello fellow Rivendell enthusiasts,
>
> I'm Marcus, I live in Seoul, South Korea and am probably riding one of my
> Rivs around. I recently started a Youtube channel and thought some people
> on here might be interested in seeing it. I have some bike checks of my
> Clem, Romulus, Atlantis and Velo Orange Polyvalent but it's mostly
> showcasing what cycling in Korea is like.
>
> I hope it's ok to post here and hope you enjoy!  Probably Riding - YouTube
> <https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCQEDB9BVgbMKF8gaOW75WGQ>
>
> Thanks for all of your discussions on this group!
>
> Marcus
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Evening Spring Ride on the Clem

2024-04-21 Thread Patrick Moore
Welcome back, congratulations on the Clem, and thanks for the binocular
suggestion. I lean toward the Carson since its price is more in line with
my very occasional and casual use, and because it's so compact.

On Sun, Apr 21, 2024 at 11:09 AM Gordon Stam  wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> Gordon Stam here. I used to post on this forum, or one like it (I
> recognize a few names) back in the mid 00s after I bought my Romulus. In
> the intervening years I drifted away from cycling (I developed a motorcycle
> habit) but I'm back with the purchase of a 59cm Clem Smith Jr frame which
> I've built into a parts bin special. I've been lurking for a month or so
> but this thread has three touchstones for me: the Clem, the Central Coast,
> and binoculars. Nice shots of your Clem in the trees Chris. I went to
> school at Cal Poly many years ago,
>
> ...
>
> Regarding binoculars check out the Maven C2 7x28. Maven makes good binos
> but a wee bit more expensive than those Carson. A better bino though. As
> far as taking them on a ride I just loop mine over my shoulder bandolier
> style (see below). With these upright bikes they ride against your chest,
> or side, pretty unobtrusively and are ready for viewing at a moments
> notice. I use paracord for a strap with a couple of slip knots for length
> adustment. This is the Maven B3 6x30. A step up from the C series but a
> right dandy unit. Costs less than a high end wheelset though!
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Clem Chainstay Ding Peer Review Request

2024-04-21 Thread Patrick Moore
Thanks, Chris, good to know that I can probably ride a size that takes 700C
wheels. This information goes to the archive. Yes, if I get a Clem it would
be to use it with sweep-back or "tourist" bars of some sort.


On Sun, Apr 21, 2024 at 3:45 PM Chris Halasz  wrote:

> Patrick,
>
> If Grant can ride a 64cm with an 85cm PBH
> <https://www.rivbike.com/blogs/staff-bikes/grants-64cm-clem-l-85cm-pbh>,
> you should be fine on a 59cm frame (assuming you can do so without drop
> bars).
>
> I'm happily on the 64cm with an 89cm PBH; I used to ride a 62cm Rivendell
> Road Standard, a 61 Bleriot, and a 60cm Bombadil.
>
> - Chris
>
> On Thursday, April 18, 2024 at 2:55:36 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> Thanks, Dave. I think I might fall between sizes, between the 52 and the
>> 59 and, inclined to go small, the 52 alas is spec'd for 650B instead of my
>> preferred 700C. But perhaps a 59 would be alright as long as I don't want a
>> drop bar.* I don't know my PBH but a 60 X 56 c-c fits perfectly with 9 cm
>> stem and fistful of seatpost -- 4/3 scale Asian build with more of height
>> in torso.
>>
>> But if the 52 and 650B, good to know that it can take ~58s with fenders.
>>
>> * And my daydreams of a Clem have it built with some sort of sweepback
>> bar, but that too is a question as every bar I've used except standard
>> drops hurts my left palm.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Apr 18, 2024 at 11:25 AM DavidP  wrote:
>>
>>> ... Patrick, the Clem can do tires up to 2.6 or ~2.25 fendered. The
>>> Platypus can do ~2.1-2.2"; mine's running VO 63mm fenders over those 2"
>>> GravelKings.
>>>
>>> -Dave
>>
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Re: [RBW] Rivendell Roadbike Curious

2024-04-21 Thread Patrick Moore
As someone else said, skip the scruples and just try drop bars. They're
*comfortable*, which is (I assert) the reason why they've been used for
well over 100 years.

Riders don't use drops because their bars are positioned far too low; the
hoods position on modern bikes is like the hooks position on "traditional"
road bikes.

I've not used Albastaches but I've used many, many, Moustache bars and
nope, not like drops. You might end up hating drops, but please try a few.

Patrick "38 cm Maes Parallel road, 42 cm Maes Parallel dirt" Moore

On Sun, Apr 21, 2024 at 3:07 PM Leah Peterson 
wrote:

> I promise not to be offended by a great wave of advice coming my way here
> - I have asked for it and you all have kindly delivered.
>
> Ok, ok….I really will consider drop bars. But I do wonder…everyone says
> they offer so many hand positions; but I only see people with their hands
> on the hoods. Are riders really utilizing different hand positions?
>
> Also, I saw a pic of an albastache with brake levers in the middle of the
> bar. Would this mimic the freedom of hand position changes a drop bar
> offers?
>
> I practiced tonight on my ride by grabbing the front of my Billie bars. It
> felt nice to be stretched out like that, but with no access to brakes or
> shifters from there I didn’t like to stay long. Unnerving.
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Apr 21, 2024, at 4:54 PM, Patrick Moore  wrote:
>
> 
> This is going to be a fun thread. Please don't take a great volume of
> advice as condescending; I think that this thread will elicit a very large
> amount of love for road bikes as a distinct genus of bicycle.
>
> I think you very particularly will benefit a great deal from the right
> road bike and that once you get things basically sorted you will find that
> you enjoy it immensely for the kind of riding you describe. There is a
> perfection of fit and feel and a real pleasure in riding a well set up
> traditional road bike -- I don't mean racing bike -- that you don't find
> with other combinations of frame, saddle, bar, and their relative
> positions. Really, this sort of setup on the right sort of frame is *more* 
> comfortable,
> *more* natural, *more* pleasant for energetic riding than other setups;
> at least, I've always found it so, and there's a reason why the traditional
> road bike was developed so quickly after the chain-driven safety was
> invented and why it has remained largely the same for going on for 150
> years.
>
> Note: I don't say that *everyone* who rides energetically should have a
> road bike, but everyone who does so and can try ought at least to give one
> a try. Again, there is an efficiency and comfort -- really, a "fit" like
> that of a custom suit or perfect tool -- offered by an intelligently spec'd
> and set up road bike that, you don't -- or at least, *I don't,* -- get
> with any other sort of bike.
>
> Me, based on my experience, I'd certainly start by keeping my eye out for
> a used Roadeo or Riv Road or LongLow or Ram or Heron. But for the final and
> perfect version, I'd not close my mind a priori to other makes. I am
> guessing, but I would not be surprised if, after your usual rapid learning
> cycle, this time with a road bike, you end up with a custom. My favorite
> bike of all time out of several scores is a custom Riv Road, but I've owned
> 2 other Riv Road customs plus a Ram (and the Sam) not to mention many other
> road bikes, and I've sold them all on to finally get what for me is belated
> perfection in the 2 Matthews customs  -- tho' these used the Rivs as
> general design templates.
>
> I rode the gofast Riv fixie road bike to and from church today with the
> usual annoying NE winds while inbound N and E and the usual SW winds on
> return N and W. For the umpteen millionth time I remarked to myself at how
> pleasant it was to be able to drop "intuitively" into the hooks when
> turning into a wind, or to grab the long (Maes Parallel) ramps when
> pushing, butt-back and elbows bent, up an incline, or sitting up and
> holding the flats or the flat/ramp transition and spinning when the wind
> became a tailwind.
>
> I've certainly passed my speed demon days, but there remains a very
> distinct pleasure in riding energetically -- for me, particularly on hills
> and against winds -- on the perfectly set up road bike, and I have enough
> experience to know that I would not enjoy this nearly as much on anything
> else.
>
> *Bon chance!*
>
>
> On Sat, Apr 20, 2024 at 1:33 PM Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! <
> jonasandle...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> I’m starting to wonder about a roadbike. But it has to be a Rivendell
>> roadbike because I’m loyal and all that. Anyway, I don’t know that the
&

Re: [RBW] Re: Rivendell Roadbike Curious

2024-04-21 Thread Patrick Moore
+1 for this advice. Also, +1 for Bill as docent and road bike purchase
middleman.

On Sun, Apr 21, 2024 at 1:23 PM Ted Durant  wrote:

> On Sunday, April 21, 2024 at 1:12:20 PM UTC-5 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding!
> wrote:
>
> I am, right now, leaning toward a Gallup bike but will keep reading and
> learning. And right now, I’m heading out to do Tabatas training. I had to
> look it up. Promises to be the most miserable 4 minutes of my day.
>
> Wow, first we hear you are road bike curious, now you are doing tabata
> workouts. Leah is going super hard core on us.
>
> My 2 cents worth ... "road bike", as opposed to what you currently ride
> and love, is first and foremost about riding position. FWIW, my
> recommendation is to skip past Albastache and Mustache and go straight to
> drop bars. Start with them relatively high and close, so when your hands
> are on the tops you feel like your back is relaxed and comfy. Bernard
> Hinault, I think, said you should feel like you're playing piano on the
> tops. You then have the curves on top, where your hands are a bit wider
> apart and slightly forward, and your back should still be comfy. Then you
> go forward to the brake hoods. Now you should feel like you're more forward
> than you would be on your current bikes. But, if you're riding at a hard
> enough effort (we're not talking super hard here), the force on the pedals
> should be carrying enough of your weight that you're not having to hold
> yourself up on your hands. Next you go below the brake hoods to the
> farthest forward part of the drops. This is the speedy aero position. You
> won't have a low, flat back here until you've lowered your stem/bars quite
> a bit. But you should have a flat back and you should be putting a fair
> amount of force into the pedals. Finally, there are the flat parts of the
> drops, with your hands back a bit closer to you, which are a "cruising"
> location for me (and right next to my bar end shifters), low enough to be
> efficient but not fully stretched out. I've recently read comments from
> "racers" that if you spend any amount of time down there your bars are too
> high. Well, my bars are certainly too high by their standards, but mine are
> set up for me to be comfortable in every spot. Very important: in EVERY
> position you should not be gripping the bar or brake hood tightly, you
> should have a very loose grip and not be bearing too much weight there. I
> typically am very slightly pulling up on the brake hoods or drops to
> counteract the pedaling force of the opposite leg. Also, you should ALWAYS
> have at least a slight bend in your elbows in every position. If you are
> locking your elbows something is wrong with the position and you're doing
> bad things to your wrist and shoulders and neck.
>
> General rule of thumb for starting out, have the tops of the bars maybe an
> inch above saddle height or, if you're already pretty flexible in the heaps
> and low back, level with the saddle. Put the back of an elbow at the front
> of the saddle and stretch your finger tips toward the handlebars. They
> should just touch the back of the handlebars at the stem. Maybe a little
> closer if you're tight, a little farther if you're flexible. Somebody
> recommended Noodle bars, which I heartily endorse, as that's what I have on
> most of my bikes. I like them because 1) the curves are generous 2) there's
> a little rise in the top curve, making them very comfy in that area) and 3)
> there's a fair amount of reach and drop, so you have a good range of
> positions. That last part is key for me on long rides. Sometimes I'm riding
> hard and need the long and low positions. Sometimes I'm taking it easy and
> need the high and near positions.
>
> I won't opine much on "which bike", because once you figure out your fit
> criteria, any bike that allows you to have that position will work fine. I
> have my Sam Hillbornes set up almost identically to my custom Waterford ST
> and Rivendell Road, except on the Riv Road the handlebars are a bit farther
> away and lower.
>
> Ted Durant
> Milwaukee WI USA
>
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> 

Re: [RBW] Re: Rivendell Roadbike Curious

2024-04-21 Thread Patrick Moore
+ 1 for road bikes and cataract surgery.

Patrick Moore, who has (has had?) both and now rides without glasses or
contacts with implanted plastic lenses.

On Sat, Apr 20, 2024 at 7:15 PM Leah Peterson 
wrote:

> Yes, George, 81cm , and here’s where I have to put a plug in for the
> cataract surgery. I prep those patients and they are my favorite surgeries
> because they are SO EASY and the results SO immediate that if you have been
> putting it off, run, don’t walk to the ophthalmologist. An IV is not
> required, you don’t even get undressed, there is no pain, it is 15 minutes
> and BOOM, you’re done.
>
> Ok, back to bikes…
>
> On Apr 20, 2024, at 5:12 PM, George Schick  wrote:
>
> Ryan - sorry.  I don't always see things as clearly with my aged
> ready-for-cataract surgery eyeballs.  Nevertheless, it bears repeating.
>
>
> On Saturday, April 20, 2024 at 4:06:11 PM UTC-5 Ryan wrote:
>
>> 81 PBH was mentioned
>>
>> On Saturday, April 20, 2024 at 4:04:52 PM UTC-5 Ryan wrote:
>>
>>> There ya go Leah!...Put yourself in Bill's more-than-capable hands and
>>> you won't go wrong!
>>>
>>> On Saturday, April 20, 2024 at 3:51:55 PM UTC-5 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>>
>>>> Leah
>>>>
>>>> My previous Roadeo was set up as a straight-ahead stripped down road
>>>> bike, and I would have used that anyplace anybody rides a road bike.  After
>>>> selling that, and while I was waiting for my new pink Roadeo, I used my
>>>> Black Mountain Road in that stripped down road bike slot, and that bike was
>>>> the deal of the century, IMO.  The RoadeoRosa revealed itself to be more
>>>> than just a stripped down road bike: It has insisted to become my 700c
>>>> randonneuse.
>>>>
>>>> Anyway, I did a very fast build on a Leo Roadini, last batch, and my
>>>> best-ever brevet time was on that bike.  So I think it's doable.  The newer
>>>> batch with its long reach brakes feels less "roadie".
>>>>
>>>> I can sympathize with the desire to run a Riv, but I'd also recommend
>>>> casting a wider net, because smaller frame sized used road bikes can be had
>>>> at a really good price.  Maybe if you start trolling Michigan craigslist
>>>> and the next time I'm out in Wayne County for work I can come be your
>>>> personal shopper.  :)
>>>>
>>>> Anything that can be set up with drop bars can probably also be set up
>>>> with an albastache build, which may ease you in.  Also, having a
>>>> placeholder road bike could free you up to put a deposit on a Roadeo and
>>>> then you'll have both!
>>>>
>>>> Do let me know if you want more advice
>>>>
>>>> Bill Lindsay
>>>> El Cerrito, CA
>>>>
>>>> On Saturday, April 20, 2024 at 12:33:50 PM UTC-7 Bicycle Belle Ding
>>>> Ding! wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I’m starting to wonder about a roadbike. But it has to be a Rivendell
>>>>> roadbike because I’m loyal and all that. Anyway, I don’t know that the
>>>>> Roadini really offers enough of a change for me. I have no idea what is
>>>>> going on with the Gallup. Then there’s the Roadeo - that one looks great
>>>>> but there’s a 2 year wait, unless I can find one used. Which would be
>>>>> ideal.
>>>>>
>>>>> Who rides their Rivbike in club rides and what do you ride? Who has a
>>>>> Roadeo that never gets ridden and wants to sell it? I don’t even know what
>>>>> size I’d be but I’m an 81 PBH. Must I ride drop bars? I never have before.
>>>>> I know nothing about any of this. Clearly.
>>>>>
>>>>> Note: I still like my raspberry Platypus for club riding but it does
>>>>> take a toll on me in wind. I recently got a shorter-height, longer-reach
>>>>> stem which marginally helped, but our high spring winds are taking it out
>>>>> of me. I did a club ride yesterday with my women’s group and my heart rate
>>>>> was in the 170s the whole 26.3 miles. It was brutal. Everyone else agreed
>>>>> it was a hard ride, but I felt like it was harder on me than them, and I’m
>>>>> the youngest and probably the most fit.
>>>>>
>>>>> Leah
>>>>>
>>>> --
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Re: [RBW] Re: Rivendell Roadbike Curious

2024-04-21 Thread Patrick Moore
I generally look up to Garth's advice, but I'll contradict him here: the
point is not level or sloping top tube but saddle to bar relationship. My
"ideal" level tt/fist of sp size is 60X56 c-c but the most perfectest fit
of all is on that too-much described '99 Riv custom that has a 57 c-c st,
upsloping 57 cm tt with modestly extended ht, since this lets me get the
saddle in the right place and then wrt to the saddle, get the bar in the
right place. I've gotten near-perfect drop bar setups on miniscule 46 cm
frames with massive 58+ cm tts (mtb frames) tho' 46 and 58 are hardly ideal.

Second, yes, less air resistance is a great benefit of a lower and drop
bar, but there is another that IME is equally great, that you bring into
play additional muscles when you bend over. I find this every time I "slip"
into the hooks when turning into a headwind or slide way back on the saddle
when reaching an incline.



On Sat, Apr 20, 2024 at 2:38 PM Garth  wrote:

> Hooray for you Leah ! :-)
>
> I think a level top tube would suit you better in the long run as given a
> good fit, you'll be able to have a good starting point for bar height. Not
> too high, not too low. You're obliviously fit and flexible, so for road
> riding use that to your advantage, so to speak. Less air resistance, which
> is what you're running into, literally. From experience,  sloping TT's are
> fine if you want to the bars quite high, but if you want them at a more
> saddle level or below you may not be able to go low enough. It depends on
> the frame of course.
>
> A Homer before the TT's were sloped would also work as road bike in
> addition to the Roadeo. They were technically 1.5 degrees, not enough to
> care about given a proper fit.  Also Ramboullett frames would work.
>
> You have such a good level of fitness and sensibilities that you'll be
> fine, it'll work out as it comes.
>

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Re: [RBW] Rivendell Roadbike Curious

2024-04-21 Thread Patrick Moore
This is going to be a fun thread. Please don't take a great volume of
advice as condescending; I think that this thread will elicit a very large
amount of love for road bikes as a distinct genus of bicycle.

I think you very particularly will benefit a great deal from the right road
bike and that once you get things basically sorted you will find that you
enjoy it immensely for the kind of riding you describe. There is a
perfection of fit and feel and a real pleasure in riding a well set up
traditional road bike -- I don't mean racing bike -- that you don't find
with other combinations of frame, saddle, bar, and their relative
positions. Really, this sort of setup on the right sort of frame is
*more* comfortable,
*more* natural, *more* pleasant for energetic riding than other setups; at
least, I've always found it so, and there's a reason why the traditional
road bike was developed so quickly after the chain-driven safety was
invented and why it has remained largely the same for going on for 150
years.

Note: I don't say that *everyone* who rides energetically should have a
road bike, but everyone who does so and can try ought at least to give one
a try. Again, there is an efficiency and comfort -- really, a "fit" like
that of a custom suit or perfect tool -- offered by an intelligently spec'd
and set up road bike that, you don't -- or at least, *I don't,* -- get with
any other sort of bike.

Me, based on my experience, I'd certainly start by keeping my eye out for a
used Roadeo or Riv Road or LongLow or Ram or Heron. But for the final and
perfect version, I'd not close my mind a priori to other makes. I am
guessing, but I would not be surprised if, after your usual rapid learning
cycle, this time with a road bike, you end up with a custom. My favorite
bike of all time out of several scores is a custom Riv Road, but I've owned
2 other Riv Road customs plus a Ram (and the Sam) not to mention many other
road bikes, and I've sold them all on to finally get what for me is belated
perfection in the 2 Matthews customs  -- tho' these used the Rivs as
general design templates.

I rode the gofast Riv fixie road bike to and from church today with the
usual annoying NE winds while inbound N and E and the usual SW winds on
return N and W. For the umpteen millionth time I remarked to myself at how
pleasant it was to be able to drop "intuitively" into the hooks when
turning into a wind, or to grab the long (Maes Parallel) ramps when
pushing, butt-back and elbows bent, up an incline, or sitting up and
holding the flats or the flat/ramp transition and spinning when the wind
became a tailwind.

I've certainly passed my speed demon days, but there remains a very
distinct pleasure in riding energetically -- for me, particularly on hills
and against winds -- on the perfectly set up road bike, and I have enough
experience to know that I would not enjoy this nearly as much on anything
else.

*Bon chance!*


On Sat, Apr 20, 2024 at 1:33 PM Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! <
jonasandle...@gmail.com> wrote:

> I’m starting to wonder about a roadbike. But it has to be a Rivendell
> roadbike because I’m loyal and all that. Anyway, I don’t know that the
> Roadini really offers enough of a change for me. I have no idea what is
> going on with the Gallup. Then there’s the Roadeo - that one looks great
> but there’s a 2 year wait, unless I can find one used. Which would be
> ideal.
>
> Who rides their Rivbike in club rides and what do you ride? Who has a
> Roadeo that never gets ridden and wants to sell it? I don’t even know what
> size I’d be but I’m an 81 PBH. Must I ride drop bars? I never have before.
> I know nothing about any of this. Clearly.
>
> Note: I still like my raspberry Platypus for club riding but it does take
> a toll on me in wind. I recently got a shorter-height, longer-reach stem
> which marginally helped, but our high spring winds are taking it out of me.
> I did a club ride yesterday with my women’s group and my heart rate was in
> the 170s the whole 26.3 miles. It was brutal. Everyone else agreed it was a
> hard ride, but I felt like it was harder on me than them, and I’m the
> youngest and probably the most fit.
>
> Leah
>
> --
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>


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-

Re: [RBW] TPU inner tubes - Anyone using them?

2024-04-20 Thread Patrick Moore
Rene Herse makes their TPU tubes very slightly thicker -- adding ~3 grams
per IIRC -- to ensure resistance to heat from rim brakes. $33 per tube,
tho'.

Me, I'm going to wait until RH come up with a suitable sealant, apparently
Orange Seal does not work with them, and be they more flat resistant than
butyl, they'll certainly not be goathead-proof.

As for patches, someone recently describe successfully using standard
glueless patches on TPU tubes.

While my extralight RH tires (Elk Pass, Naches Pass) ride superbly with
ultra-thin butyl (plus Orange Seal regular formula), I'd not pass up even
better ride quality with TPUs once the goathead problem is solved.

FWIW, I recently saw an Amazon offer of a pair of 700C TPUs *with metal
valve stems* that, says RH, avoid the frustrating leaks of plastic valves,
plus 4 patches for IIRC $25 but I could not find that page just now.



On Sat, Apr 20, 2024 at 5:25 AM Brian Turner  wrote:

> Steve, are you using them on your Riv or another bike? I was under the
> impression that TPU tubes were recommended for disc brakes only - I assume
> due to the heat generated by rim brakes? I’m curious about them, but don’t
> really have the right application for them in my stable.
>
> Brian
> Lex KY
>
> On Apr 19, 2024, at 10:41 PM, Steve  wrote:
>
> Last evening I mounted a pair of WTB TPU inner tubes under 700c x 48mm
> knobby RH tires. I was pleasantly surprised by how easily they mounted up
> with just enough inflation to plump them a bit. Easier than any butyl tubes
> I've ever used.
>
> Today I took the bike out on my usual graveled forest service road route,
> bleeding the front end down from 27 to 25 psi about 1/2 into the ride  My
> first impression is that they  compare favorably to the ride feel of a
> tubeless setup.
>
> Before I sip the kool aid and start buying more of these things - given
> the cost - I'm wondering if anyone has had long term experience with them
> (not necessarily the WTB version).   Any punctures, did they patch
> satisfactorily? Longevity? Your impressions of the quality?
>
>  I'll add that they dropped about 200 grams of ugly fat from the wheels -
> but that wasn't my main objective.
>
> Steve
>
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Re: [RBW] Rack(s) for Clem

2024-04-19 Thread Patrick Moore
I've used various Tubus racks on wide-stayed frames and, because they are
tubular steel, they can be spread without fear of damage. Also, Tubus makes
various little fitments that allow you to attach a rack to frames that
might otherwise interfere with ordinary attachment hardware and methods.

As a plus, Tubus racks have very high load ratings; for years I carried
very heavy rear loads on very light Flys.

Patrick "owned very many Tubus racks; currently Tubus stainless steel Fly
modified by S Bilenky for 26"-wheel Matthews commuter/errand custom" Moore

On Fri, Apr 19, 2024 at 6:16 AM Igor  wrote:

> What racks do folks like for their Clem? I am selling my campee racks
> because they are not a good fit on the wider-dropouts of a Clem, and I'd
> like something simpler for rear.
>
> 1 for my wife, 1 for me (We both will have a Clem soon...orange one coming
> for me :D )
>
> I am looking at the RB14 and also the Rivendell Big Rack. I'm probably OK
> with just a saddle bag, and she may want panniers, so I figure the Big Rack
> for her, but maybe some other options out there to consider?
>
> Thanks!
>
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[RBW] AliExpress 10 sp spacers -- individually wrapped! [Was: 10 speed spacers: source found, but now confusion and question]

2024-04-19 Thread Patrick Moore
Update on this for anyone who cares. I ordered 10 each (1 extra in case of
loss) of 2mm, 2.18mm, and 2.35 mm spacers from AliExpress per Garth's
suggestion; thanks again, Garth.

The upshot after much soul (and web) searching is that *Shimano* 10sp cogs
are 1.6mm thick and take 2.35mm spacers, but *Miche* 10sp cogs are 1.8 mm
thick in the body -- 1.6 mm in the teeth -- and take 2mm spacers.

I had built my #2-wheel for the Matthews "road bike for dirt" of Shimano
cogs but used Miche spacers and, for the most part, it all works very well
-- 11 sp chain on 10 sp cassette -- but when the chain is on the 18 t cog,
a very much used cruising cog, precise chain adjustment is more finicky and
requires more attention to trimming.

So I will replace the 2.0s with, probably the proper Shimano-width 2.35s,
but I might try the 2.18s which I guess    are for 11 sp
Shimano cassettes? -- simply because the 2.0s have worked so well except
for that 18 to cog.

Finally, I placed the order on 4/05 and exactly 2 weeks later the passle of
cogs appeared in my mailbox.

$30 US and change for 30 spacers + shipping + NM or ABQ tax.

The cogs are all aluminum and a very pretty scarlet, and they are very
minimally cut and make the stock 2.0 Shimano (I think) silver aluminum
spacers look big and clumsy. And each of the 30 received was individually
wrapped; I guess for ease of sorting.

In case you were anxiously fretting about all this 

I had earlier ordered a passle of 10 sp Shimano cogs to build up 14-28 10
sp cassettes, and with these spacers, I'm a convert to AliExpress for
cheap, decent small parts.




On Tue, Apr 2, 2024 at 11:49 AM Patrick Moore  wrote:

> Re-threading this:
>
> Thanks, Garth; you're fingers are obviously more deft than mine.
>
> But a question, because now I'm confused (per other thread): how wide are
> Shimano 10 sp spacers?
>
> You say 2.35, Sheldon says 2.35mm, mine measure consistent 2.04 mm -- the
> red plastic ones I ordered from Cycle Clinic (expressly for 10 sp
> cassettes) in 2020. *And * I found a half-dozen alum spacers in my bin
> that measure a consistent 2.0 mm.
>
> So: is 2.04 -- 2.0 the 11 speed spacer?
>
> The 14-28 10 sp cassette, as well as the 13-25, both use the red 2.04 mm
> spacers with an 11 sp chain and it all shifts wonderfully.
>
> *SO:* please tell me what I want!
>
> Thanks!
>
> On Tue, Apr 2, 2024 at 11:28 AM Garth  wrote:
>
>> I case you come up empty here Patrick, there's aliexpress wholesale
>> website. I've ordered from the website from various companies without any
>> issues.
>> https://www.aliexpress.us/w/wholesale-10-speed-cassette-spacers-2.35mm.html.
>> You can also get spare cogs there.
>> https://www.aliexpress.us/w/wholesale-10-speed-cassette-cogs.html
>>
>> If anyone made an 7-speed freehub, and it didn't make noise, I'd buy some
>> and make my own cassettes.
>>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Evening Spring Ride on the Clem

2024-04-19 Thread Patrick Moore
Thanks, Dave, I've looked up the Carson and it appears readily available
for $33. It's on my "To Buy" list.

On Thu, Apr 18, 2024 at 5:08 PM DavidP  wrote:

> "Palm sized" is how I'd describe the Carson MiniScout 7x18 I take along on
> trail rides and other rides when I don't expect to be using them much or
> are too rough to bring more expensive binoculars. Tiny, expendable, very
> small eye relief, but surprisingly decent handling for the size.
>
> A 6x18 monocular is smaller but the bins give a better view.
>
> -Dave
>
> On Thursday, April 18, 2024 at 6:35:55 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> Yes; please keep them coming.
>>
>> Aside, to all: suggestions for a usable but inexpensive, small, and
>> easily stowable binocular or monocular for very casual sightings while
>> riding around? For some reason I lost or tossed a nice palm-size binocular
>> and I'd like to replace with with something that easily fits into a rear
>> jersey pocket.
>>
>>
>> Patrick "I see a Clem in my future, but only after fettling the new M 1:1
>> knobby wheelset and the beater Libertas build" Moore
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Apr 18, 2024 at 8:42 AM DavidP  wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks, Chris - very much enjoyed your ride report and always great to
>>> see photos!
>>>
>>> I also like to bring binos on bike rides, and find a stem bag is a great
>>> way to have them easily accessible (requires folding/pocket bins - I use a
>>> pair of Bushnell Legend 10x25 for this).
>>>
>>> -Dave
>>>
>>> On Thursday, April 18, 2024 at 1:51:56 AM UTC-4 Chris Halasz wrote:
>>>
>>>> I took advantage of the intermission in rains here on California’s
>>>> Central Coast for a short and easy trail ride this evening.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I'd started running again and enjoying something like a 10k loop along
>>>> this trail for the past year, and recently wondered why I never bother to
>>>> take a bike here: it's a quicker way to grab the binos and do some
>>>> occasional birding. A Clem seemed like a good candidate for stepping off in
>>>> sketchy sections, and for portaging with its low top tube.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> This was its first ride into the trees!
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> The trees seemed to be enjoying the frogs making happy noise in the
>>>> creek, the air was cool, not much breeze, and the (new to me) Clem cruised
>>>> nicely over the winter’s leaves, the drying trails, and lots of exposed
>>>> rock from a generously wet winter. Shall I ride the bike when I go
>>>> hear Suzanne Simard speak in a couple weeks?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> [image: IMG_1128.jpeg]
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> [image: IMG_1132.jpeg]
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> [image: IMG_1137.jpeg]
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Hope you enjoy the photos as much as I enjoyed the (short) ride,
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Chris
>>>>
>>> --
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Re: [RBW] Rivendells with tubulars

2024-04-19 Thread Patrick Moore
Yeah, Bill is always mean to me; I'm used to it.

Bill: Idle curiosity, that's all. I read Jan Heine somewhere saying that
very good modern clinchers are actually faster than good tubulars and I
wondered if anyone has ridden both and can compare them from personal
experience. There was a time when I toyed with the idea of trying tubulars,
perhaps on that very Libertas, but I'm so happy with the great clinchers
from Schwalbe and RH and Soma that I really don't have much motivation to
do that.

Libertas: Still need to take it to my brother's house to get a better idea
of how fat a tire it will take in the different diameters.The frame is no
good to me for the use I'd last planned for it -- an allrounder beater that
can ride on the firmer (= shallower sand) ditchbank roads, which requires a
minimum of 38 mm and better 42. The frame cannot take 622X38s in front or
rear; it won't take 559 X 50s, and I have to figure out if it will take 584
X 42s or even 38s.

I may do a little impromptu vise-work on the inside of the rear stays 
 we'll see.

On Fri, Apr 19, 2024 at 9:26 AM Bill Lindsay  wrote:

> I don't think it's cynical or aggressive, I'm just trying to get the
> context of Patrick Moore's tubular-curiosity.
>
> Lots of people read the RBW group because it's something to read that
> generates interesting stuff.  The majority of the users are lurkers and
> that's perfectly OK
> Lots of people pick up info on one Google Group board and then insert it
> into another where they think it can be helpful.  That's also perfectly OK
> Some people are just lifelong learners and want to learn everything there
> is to know about bicycles, even the stuff they'd never buy.  That's also
> fine.
> Some people want to gather info about a specific project on the horizon,
> and having that target in mind can help focus the exchange
> Finally, Patrick Moore has been sitting on a frame set, with a 5-year-long
> narrative of intents to build it.  That's the only machine in his
> possession that I know of that could feasibly "take" sew-ups.  I excitedly
> asked about that.
>
> I think those are five very different and perfectly reasonable motives,
> and could help generate responses that get the asker what they want.  Maybe
> you picked up cynicism or aggressiveness because you suspect Patrick Moore
> and I are strangers.  That is not the case.  We go back over a decade.
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Thursday, April 18, 2024 at 8:23:55 PM UTC-7 exliontamer wrote:
>
>> That's a very cynical & aggressive response to that question.
>>
>> On Thursday, April 18, 2024 at 7:26:27 PM UTC-5 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>>> "interested to hear how..."  to what end?  Just so you have something to
>>> read?  So you can pick up a smart comment to re-use in another forum
>>> later?  Just as an academic consideration about "Bicycle"?  Or for some
>>> practical application that you are personally considering?  Are you
>>> thinking about setting up *"that Libertas" * with tubulars?
>>>
>>> Bill Lindsay
>>> El Cerrito, CA
>>>
>>> On Thursday, April 18, 2024 at 2:58:29 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>>
>>>> I'll be interested to hear how users of both compare the ride and
>>>> "feel" of tubulars to clinchers with tubes and tubeless clinchers.* Is it
>>>> true that modern supple clinchers can roll better than equivalent tubulars?
>>>> With tubes or only tubeless?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> * I realize that "wired on" is the correct term but this isn't the CR
>>>> list.
>>>>
>>>> On Thu, Apr 18, 2024 at 11:42 AM Bill Lindsay 
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> A discussion a while back touched on a couple people revealing that
>>>>> they run sew-ups on their Rivendell.  Show a photo of your Rivendell with
>>>>> sew-ups!
>>>>>
>>>>> Here's my 57cm Legolas.  I briefly reconfigured it as a 2x road bike,
>>>>> but it's in-process getting switched back to a cyclocross racing set up.
>>>>> No, I will not be racing cyclocross any time soon, but I will be using it
>>>>> for rides of that kind.
>>>>>
>>>>> https://flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/53661740502/in/dateposted/
>>>>>
>>>>> Bill Lindsay
>>>>> El Cerrito, CA
>>>>>
>>>>> --
>>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
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>>>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop 

[RBW] Easily pocket-able, decent but cheap binocular or monocular

2024-04-18 Thread Patrick Moore
New thread to avoid egregious thread highjacking.

Thanks, David, that's what I'd hope to find. The one I lost/sold/gave away
was of a similar size and had what I think was at one point was a reputable
name, Bushnell; tho' these days, with selling brand assets, who the hell
knows. But it worked fine and was only a wee bit big to slide easily into a
jersey pocket.

To all: Monococular: suggestions? If one wants to put a premium on
portability at the expense of visual experience -- tho' one wants the
device to be useful for casual bird, person, or object observance. I also,
long ago, and a cheap monocular, about the size of a test tube, and it did
sort of work.

Thanks again.


On Thu, Apr 18, 2024 at 5:08 PM DavidP  wrote:

> "Palm sized" is how I'd describe the Carson MiniScout 7x18 I take along on
> trail rides and other rides when I don't expect to be using them much or
> are too rough to bring more expensive binoculars. Tiny, expendable, very
> small eye relief, but surprisingly decent handling for the size.
>
> A 6x18 monocular is smaller but the bins give a better view.
>
> -Dave
>
> On Thursday, April 18, 2024 at 6:35:55 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> Yes; please keep them coming.
>>
>> Aside, to all: suggestions for a usable but inexpensive, small, and
>> easily stowable binocular or monocular for very casual sightings while
>> riding around? For some reason I lost or tossed a nice palm-size binocular
>> and I'd like to replace with with something that easily fits into a rear
>> jersey pocket.
>>
>>
>> Patrick "I see a Clem in my future, but only after fettling the new M 1:1
>> knobby wheelset and the beater Libertas build" Moore
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Apr 18, 2024 at 8:42 AM DavidP  wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks, Chris - very much enjoyed your ride report and always great to
>>> see photos!
>>>
>>> I also like to bring binos on bike rides, and find a stem bag is a great
>>> way to have them easily accessible (requires folding/pocket bins - I use a
>>> pair of Bushnell Legend 10x25 for this).
>>>
>>> -Dave
>>>
>>> On Thursday, April 18, 2024 at 1:51:56 AM UTC-4 Chris Halasz wrote:
>>>
>>>> I took advantage of the intermission in rains here on California’s
>>>> Central Coast for a short and easy trail ride this evening.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I'd started running again and enjoying something like a 10k loop along
>>>> this trail for the past year, and recently wondered why I never bother to
>>>> take a bike here: it's a quicker way to grab the binos and do some
>>>> occasional birding. A Clem seemed like a good candidate for stepping off in
>>>> sketchy sections, and for portaging with its low top tube.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> This was its first ride into the trees!
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> The trees seemed to be enjoying the frogs making happy noise in the
>>>> creek, the air was cool, not much breeze, and the (new to me) Clem cruised
>>>> nicely over the winter’s leaves, the drying trails, and lots of exposed
>>>> rock from a generously wet winter. Shall I ride the bike when I go
>>>> hear Suzanne Simard speak in a couple weeks?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> [image: IMG_1128.jpeg]
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> [image: IMG_1132.jpeg]
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> [image: IMG_1137.jpeg]
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Hope you enjoy the photos as much as I enjoyed the (short) ride,
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Chris
>>>>
>>> --
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Re: [RBW] Re: Evening Spring Ride on the Clem

2024-04-18 Thread Patrick Moore
Yes; please keep them coming.

Aside, to all: suggestions for a usable but inexpensive, small, and easily
stowable binocular or monocular for very casual sightings while riding
around? For some reason I lost or tossed a nice palm-size binocular and I'd
like to replace with with something that easily fits into a rear jersey
pocket.


Patrick "I see a Clem in my future, but only after fettling the new M 1:1
knobby wheelset and the beater Libertas build" Moore


On Thu, Apr 18, 2024 at 8:42 AM DavidP  wrote:

> Thanks, Chris - very much enjoyed your ride report and always great to see
> photos!
>
> I also like to bring binos on bike rides, and find a stem bag is a great
> way to have them easily accessible (requires folding/pocket bins - I use a
> pair of Bushnell Legend 10x25 for this).
>
> -Dave
>
> On Thursday, April 18, 2024 at 1:51:56 AM UTC-4 Chris Halasz wrote:
>
>> I took advantage of the intermission in rains here on California’s
>> Central Coast for a short and easy trail ride this evening.
>>
>>
>> I'd started running again and enjoying something like a 10k loop along
>> this trail for the past year, and recently wondered why I never bother to
>> take a bike here: it's a quicker way to grab the binos and do some
>> occasional birding. A Clem seemed like a good candidate for stepping off in
>> sketchy sections, and for portaging with its low top tube.
>>
>>
>> This was its first ride into the trees!
>>
>>
>> The trees seemed to be enjoying the frogs making happy noise in the
>> creek, the air was cool, not much breeze, and the (new to me) Clem cruised
>> nicely over the winter’s leaves, the drying trails, and lots of exposed
>> rock from a generously wet winter. Shall I ride the bike when I go hear
>> Suzanne Simard speak in a couple weeks?
>>
>>
>> [image: IMG_1128.jpeg]
>>
>>
>> [image: IMG_1132.jpeg]
>>
>>
>> [image: IMG_1137.jpeg]
>>
>>
>> Hope you enjoy the photos as much as I enjoyed the (short) ride,
>>
>>
>> Chris
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Rivendells with tubulars

2024-04-18 Thread Patrick Moore
I'll be interested to hear how users of both compare the ride and "feel" of
tubulars to clinchers with tubes and tubeless clinchers.* Is it true that
modern supple clinchers can roll better than equivalent tubulars? With
tubes or only tubeless?


* I realize that "wired on" is the correct term but this isn't the CR list.

On Thu, Apr 18, 2024 at 11:42 AM Bill Lindsay  wrote:

> A discussion a while back touched on a couple people revealing that they
> run sew-ups on their Rivendell.  Show a photo of your Rivendell with
> sew-ups!
>
> Here's my 57cm Legolas.  I briefly reconfigured it as a 2x road bike, but
> it's in-process getting switched back to a cyclocross racing set up.  No, I
> will not be racing cyclocross any time soon, but I will be using it for
> rides of that kind.
>
> https://flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/53661740502/in/dateposted/
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> --
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> .
>


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Re: [RBW] Re: Clem Chainstay Ding Peer Review Request

2024-04-18 Thread Patrick Moore
Thanks, Dave. I think I might fall between sizes, between the 52 and the 59
and, inclined to go small, the 52 alas is spec'd for 650B instead of my
preferred 700C. But perhaps a 59 would be alright as long as I don't want a
drop bar.* I don't know my PBH but a 60 X 56 c-c fits perfectly with 9 cm
stem and fistful of seatpost -- 4/3 scale Asian build with more of height
in torso.

But if the 52 and 650B, good to know that it can take ~58s with fenders.

* And my daydreams of a Clem have it built with some sort of sweepback bar,
but that too is a question as every bar I've used except standard drops
hurts my left palm.




On Thu, Apr 18, 2024 at 11:25 AM DavidP  wrote:

> ... Patrick, the Clem can do tires up to 2.6 or ~2.25 fendered. The
> Platypus can do ~2.1-2.2"; mine's running VO 63mm fenders over those 2"
> GravelKings.
>
> -Dave

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Re: [RBW] Re: Clem Chainstay Ding Peer Review Request

2024-04-18 Thread Patrick Moore
Thanks for the clarifications and precisions. I'm more auditory than visual
so I do appreciate the apercus of someone who is visual about the Clem's
appearance. Also, can the Clem take wider tires than the Platypus? At any
rate, if I ever get a Clem, it will be for dawdling about on pavement and
on sandy roads and trails so I'd need a minimum width of 48.

Please do post more offroad photos of the Clem.

On Wed, Apr 17, 2024 at 11:32 PM Chris Halasz  wrote:

> Patrick
>
>
> I almost, and probably should have, refrained from comparing the Clem with
> the Platypus.
>
>
> I built the 60cm Platypus with 42mm Graveling SS tires and Crust Juan
> Martin bars, front rack, often with a beloved little dog in the front
> basket rack. The Clem is a 64cm with Tosco bars, 48mm Oracle Ridge tires,
> and no racks. Surely all of that is part of the change.
>
>
> It feels a little more sure - to me - with the type of riding I’m doing
> now: a little less road, a few more rocky trails (images to follow in
> another thread).
>
>
> I’m highly visual, and while I couldn’t argue that the Platypus is the
> more objectively beautifully built frame, there’s something downright
> compelling to me about the largest Clem and the way the top and down tubes
> diverge at the steerer tube, and the way my somewhat dyslexic brain works,
> that translate to *me* finding myself more at home on this build; it feels
> a bit more like an extension of me, or maybe I just feel more sure with the
> Clem in the type of riding I’m doing now. I’ve grown more accustomed to
> riding upright, and maybe that extra inch or so of chainstay suits the
> riding I’m doing now.
>
>
> - Chris
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Friction 9 V 10 speed

2024-04-17 Thread Patrick Moore
OTOH: I recall a practically new Schwinn Collegiate bought at Goodwill that
had a 5 speed square-tooth wide range freewheel shifted by a second-gen
Alvit rear derailleur pulled by a massive, chromed steel lever clamped to
the stem quill; possibly Suntour ratcheting? I don't recall.

At any rate, I was struck at how well it shifted, if you moved the lever
confidently and with authority. The chain would move promptly to the next
cog with a loud "thump" without any rattling afterward and the need to trim
the derailleur. Again, the system seemed to be in new condition.

On Wed, Apr 17, 2024 at 11:15 AM Patrick Moore  wrote:

> FWIW, I read a few years ago that using a chain 1 generation more advanced
> than one's cassette improved shifting because the later and narrower chain
> avoids rubbing on adjacent cogs a wee but noticeable bit better than the
> earlier chain. I've been using 11 sp chains on my 10 sp cassettes, and
> while the difference isn't striking, I think it does keep the chain quieter
> while not in any way compromising shifting precision or speed.
>
> In any event, the best friction shifting I've enjoyed is 10 cogs with
> cassettes built using not only 10 sp spacers but real 10 sp cogs, with both
> 10 sp and 11 sp chains. The 9 and 8 sp cassettes I used had proper spacers
> but cogs of all ages and generations including 7s and Uniglides, but even
> those shifted fine -- I never complained, even tho' my 10s shift better.
>
> I said yesterday and someone else also pointed out that a great deal of
> friction shifting precision results from a happy match of shifter with
> derailleur. The 9 speed drivetrain that shifted in friction almost as well
> as the "proper" 10 sp systems was a bastard cassette shifted by a
> Microshift rd pulled by a first-gen Silver BES. Lovely, tho' due to the
> mismatch of the cogs, not quite as lovely as the current Barcon + 7402 + 10
> sp cassette build from proper 10 sp cogs carrying 11 sp chain.
>
> Patrick Moore, who also found that small-barrel Retrofriction dt shifters
> shifted 10 sp Am Classic close ratio cassettes very, very well, back circa
> 2003-2005.
>
>
>
> On Wed, Apr 17, 2024 at 8:08 AM Hoch in ut  wrote:
>
>> I’ve tried 8,9,10 speeds with friction shifting. 10 speed, nope. 9 was ok
>> But settled on 8-speed for pretty much all friction shift bikes.
>>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Friction 9 V 10 speed

2024-04-17 Thread Patrick Moore
FWIW, I read a few years ago that using a chain 1 generation more advanced
than one's cassette improved shifting because the later and narrower chain
avoids rubbing on adjacent cogs a wee but noticeable bit better than the
earlier chain. I've been using 11 sp chains on my 10 sp cassettes, and
while the difference isn't striking, I think it does keep the chain quieter
while not in any way compromising shifting precision or speed.

In any event, the best friction shifting I've enjoyed is 10 cogs with
cassettes built using not only 10 sp spacers but real 10 sp cogs, with both
10 sp and 11 sp chains. The 9 and 8 sp cassettes I used had proper spacers
but cogs of all ages and generations including 7s and Uniglides, but even
those shifted fine -- I never complained, even tho' my 10s shift better.

I said yesterday and someone else also pointed out that a great deal of
friction shifting precision results from a happy match of shifter with
derailleur. The 9 speed drivetrain that shifted in friction almost as well
as the "proper" 10 sp systems was a bastard cassette shifted by a
Microshift rd pulled by a first-gen Silver BES. Lovely, tho' due to the
mismatch of the cogs, not quite as lovely as the current Barcon + 7402 + 10
sp cassette build from proper 10 sp cogs carrying 11 sp chain.

Patrick Moore, who also found that small-barrel Retrofriction dt shifters
shifted 10 sp Am Classic close ratio cassettes very, very well, back circa
2003-2005.



On Wed, Apr 17, 2024 at 8:08 AM Hoch in ut  wrote:

> I’ve tried 8,9,10 speeds with friction shifting. 10 speed, nope. 9 was ok
> But settled on 8-speed for pretty much all friction shift bikes.
>

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[RBW] Re: Long shot: Seeking information about a Sturmey Archer AR-8 hub: IGH + drum brake

2024-04-16 Thread Patrick Moore
I'm amazed at what arcana comes up from a request for obscure information.
I cannot be 100% certain without disassembling the hub in question, but
various inputs from several lists indicate that this "AR-8" hub is not an
ultra-close ratio racing 3 speed hub from 1938 ("AR-8") inexplicably
attached to a drum brake but a A*B*-8, an AW (133/100/75) wide ratio hub
very expectedly attached to a drum brake made in 1938 for very reasonable
use on an upright roadsters. Someone thought that the stamping read
"AB-*3"* but
I see an 8 when I look closely.

I Googled some more and found a couple of old FS ads for old roadsters with
AB-8 hubs as well as these SA links for the AB and the AB3, which both are
also on Sheldon's SA IGH crib chart:

AB: 1930s wide ratio with drum brake:
http://www.sturmey-archerheritage.com/index.php?page=history-detail=54

*And* the AB3: a modern (at least per Sheldon in 2010) iteration:
https://web.archive.org/web/20121029092003/http://www.sturmey-archer.com/products/hubs/cid/3/id/18/specs/1

But I think that the stamping reads "8" and not "3" -- again, AB hub, wide
ratio, plus drum brake, 1938.

So, over and out.

On Tue, Apr 16, 2024 at 3:03 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:

> Someone wants to trade for one of my AMs and I want to know what ratios it
> has.
>
> I realize that this is a long shot (and yes, I first asked on the IGH
> list) but does anyone know what the ratios are?
>
> >>> Is this in fact an ultra-close ratio AR hub* (made for time trialers)
> mated for some reason to a drum brake? Perhaps for tandem time trialers? <<<
>
> I'd love to have an AR with or without drum, but I don't want to end up
> with another AW-type epicyclic.
>
>
> * Direct, 107.24% overdrive, 93.24% underdrive; say 75/70/66 gi.
>
> --
>
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
> ---
>
> Executive resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, letters, and other writing
> services
>
>
> ---
>
> *When thou didst not, savage, k**now thine own meaning,*
>
> *But wouldst gabble like a** thing most brutish,*
>
> *I endowed thy purposes w**ith words that made them known.*
>


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Re: [RBW] Friction 9 V 10 speed

2024-04-16 Thread Patrick Moore
+ 1 for the old Suntours.

OTOH, I got wonderful friction shifting with gen-1 Silvers, a Microshift
road rear derailleur, and a home-brew 9-speed cogset (used 9 sp spacers but
cogs were probably mix of 9, 8, 7, and possibly Uniglde). So a great deal
depends on the match between shifter and derailleur. In fact, I think that
this shifter/derailleur combination may have been an ideal pairing given
the cog mismatches, tho' the Barcon + DA 7402 combo today (shifting 10) is
as good if not even better, but now using proper 10 sp cogs and an 11 sp
chain, and I do prefer the action, the absence of slipping, and the
durability (broke 2 Silvers when bike fell over) of the Barcons.

OTOH again, I recall back about 2000 doing some mountain bike day tours
around Aspen and using the current mid-level Shimano indexed trigger
shifting of the time, both front and rear. I remember being very glad at
how well it all worked -- shove, snick, new gear -- when oxygen deprived
climbing a steep hill at 13K feet. And certainly the 7 speed indexed dt
rear shifting on my Sante equipped Falcon was absolutely flawless.



On Mon, Apr 15, 2024 at 11:59 PM exliontamer  wrote:

> ... When pedaling hard, I've had ghost shifting on every Riv/Dia Compe
> Shifter I've had unless they're tightened to the point of negating the
> feel. Very much prefer the older Suntour ratcheting which just feel more
> solid/sure and the Shimanos that are switchable.

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Re: [RBW] Snapped Clem seat binder bolt

2024-04-15 Thread Patrick Moore
 13, 2024 at 7:22:14 PM UTC-7 Danny wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> I’ve had that happen on a new Riv before.
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> This is from a Riv newsletter last year:
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> *Also, make sure to grease the binder bolts before you tighten
>>>>>>>>>>>> them down. They ship to us dry and they have a tendency to gall 
>>>>>>>>>>>> and not
>>>>>>>>>>>> tighten down enough unless they're greased up.*
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> -Danny
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> On Sat, Apr 13, 2024 at 9:07 PM i  wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>> I was installing the seatpost on my wife’s new Clem, and could
>>>>>>>>>>>>> not get the seatpost to stop turning. Eventually I broke the bolt.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>> I remember I had this occur on an old Clem I had as well.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>> --
>>>>>>>>>>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>>>>>>>>>>>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from
>>>>>>>>>>>>> it, send an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
>>>>>>>>>>>>> To view this discussion on the web visit
>>>>>>>>>>>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/CAL988QstY_0yqs-07nqZMTDKBoTvmqT6RUPGC8zkGWnW_GJhkg%40mail.gmail.com
>>>>>>>>>>>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/CAL988QstY_0yqs-07nqZMTDKBoTvmqT6RUPGC8zkGWnW_GJhkg%40mail.gmail.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
>>>>>>>>>>>>> .
>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> --
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Re: [RBW] Hard Miles

2024-04-12 Thread Patrick Moore
That might be worth watching; thanks for the link. (Yes, I too find most
movies too slow and only watch them with my daughter, a film major;
otherwise I fast-forward a lot.)*

I can't help but thinking that if there were riding Rivendells they might
have been more comfortable.

Lastly, when I read the header, "Hard Miles," I saw "Hard Men."
https://www.velominati.com/racing/flahute-the-hardest-of-the-hardmen/
You're welcome.

*Actually, discovered some old BBC or Brit TV movies that I actually like;
one is the 2-part condensation of E Waugh's already condensed Sword of
Honor, starring (of all people) Daniel Craig. I dislike Craig, but he does
a wonderful job in this early 2000s movie. Four thumbs up.

Oh: Another wonderful one: Run, Boy, Run -- a 9 year old Jewish boy from
the shtetl runs away into the woods as Nazis round up his family and shoot
his father; the movie describes his survival. Based on true story.


On Fri, Apr 12, 2024 at 11:37 AM Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! <
jonasandle...@gmail.com> wrote:

> There’s a new movie premiering next week called Hard Miles, and I think it
> will delight us. It’s based on a true story about some youth in the justice
> system riding their bikes from CO to the Grand Canyon, a 750+ mile venture.
> There are some big names in the movie, notably Sean Astin, who played
> Samwise Gamgee in LOTR, AND THERE’S YOUR RIVENDELL CONNECTION YOU’RE
> WELCOME.
>
> I never see movies anymore (I can’t sit still that long) but I plan to see
> this one.
> Here’s the trailer:
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VxwcSaXXAZE
>
> Leah
>
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[RBW] Spacer / shifting performance: Correction [AliExpress].

2024-04-10 Thread Patrick Moore
Re: 1.6 mm Shimano cogs spaced with 2.04 mm Miche 10 sp spacers instead of
stock Shimano 2.35 mm 10 sp spacers (Miche's 10 sp cogs have a 1.8 mm body
-- but not teeth, which are also 1.6 mm -- and thus take the narrower
spacers):

Slight change to judgment: while the 11 sp chain does shift and track
wonderfully with the skinnier Shimano cogs spaced with the skinnier Miche
spacers on 8 of the 10 gears (the 14 t outer cog has a built in
Shimano-9-sp spec spacer), it rattles very, very slightly on the remaining
cog, requiring finicky trimming to eliminate all sound; and alas this cog
is the 18 t, #5 from outermost, which is tje most-used 70" flatland
cruising gear.

So, once the Ali Express spacers order arrives I'll bump at least that cog
out with 2.35s or perhaps 2.18s.

On Fri, Apr 5, 2024 at 1:45 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:

> For the new 14-25 knobby cassette I bought 3 14-25 9 speeds from Peter
> White ($28 each, not bad) and disassembled them to replace the spacers and
> swap the 21 for a 20 and the 23 for a 22 and add a 28 after the 25. So the
> 14 outer is a proper Shimano outer with its own spacer (I guess that this
> spacer is 2.5 mm? I used Miche 2 mm spacers for the rest of the cassette;
> it all shifts perfectly ...
>

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Re: [RBW] The excellent old GP Sheldon/bikesite/mudsluts interview

2024-04-09 Thread Patrick Moore
Thanks for posting this link; old times. I do miss the Reader; I expect
Rivendell could turn that into a modest new revenue stream, but Grant did
talk about the wear and tear writing it imposed on his psyche. But it was
always fun and quirky and sometimes silly, but genially -- and *interestingly!
--* so and to me one of the best-ever bike reads. The Blahg is a good
second best and there otta be a law that Grant write a new one every 2
weeks.

Also, Grant was the one person who brought Brooks saddles (or leather
suspension saddles generally) and transverse saddlebags back to the US
market.

Patrick Moore, who sourced a NOS Campy Valentino FD from Rivendell for his
first custom 26" wheel Riv road bike in 1995 -- and who still has 3/4 of
that lump of beeswax that he bought from Rivendell not much later; fun
fact: beeswax kept for 30 years hardens into a solid bulk that no fire will
melt. Or so it seems.

[And who just now got back from a very pleasant early Spring, sunny, breezy
ride on his 1999 Joe Starck Riv Road Custom gofast 76" fixed gear -- the
truly best bicycle I've owned out of scores and the ultimate keeper.]



*bikesite: And finallyIf Eddy Mercyx and Miguel Indurain were able to
race each other in their prime, if they were to ride technologically
identical bikes, if they each had the exact same amount of rest, each had
abstained from sex for a full week before the race and each had their
friends, family and countrymen there to cheer them on, who would get the
most flats?Grant Petersen: Indurain, but they'd be pinch flats.*



On Tue, Apr 9, 2024 at 8:12 AM  wrote:

> I’m sure this has been revived and discussed many times in the past thirty
> odd years, but I’m reading the Mudsluts (Sheldon Brown/bikesite?) interview
> with Grant Petersen and well if you haven’t read it you should. It’s mostly
> Grant trying not to make the whole interview about the internet and its
> future as a tool for bicycle businesses and customers.
> I got here unironically via Google search so I can’t tell you when it’s
> from but early in the Rivendell days, maybe 1994 or 1995.
> Someone more saavy can tell. Hopefully this link will work:
> Https://sheldonbrown.com/bridgestone/mudslutsinterview.html
>
> Liz in Sacramento
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: 58cm Appaloosa Double Top Tube Disc Brake

2024-04-08 Thread Patrick Moore
Nice. I find disc-brake retro-equipped Rivendells rather interesting; I
know another person retrofitted them to a very nice Atlantis.

Who else has done this, and why?

Me, I like discs for dirt riding tho' they don't add anything for my
pavement riding.

On Mon, Apr 8, 2024 at 4:56 PM eric swain  wrote:

> And here is a full list of parts.
>
> Frame & fork: 58cm Joe Appaloosa with double top tubes AND disc brake tabs
> added by Walt Works.
> Headset: Tange Levin CDS
> Stem:  Crust/Nitto, 31.8mm, 75mm, silver
> Handlebars: Tumbleweed Persuader, steel, cut to 760mm
> Grips: DMR Deathgrip
> Brake levers: Shimano BL-M600
> Brakes: Paul Klampers, long pull, Paul brake adapters. Avid Clean Sweep G2
> 160mm Rotors
> Shifters: Shimano XT SL-M750
> Rear Derailleur: Shimano Deore RD-M591
> Front Derailleur: Shimano Deore XT Triple
> Cassette: Sram PG-950 9 speed, 11-34
> Chain: Sram PC-951
> Cranks: Shimano Deore FC-MT60, 175mm, 110/74 bcd, Shimano chain rings
> 46t/30t(46 mounted in the middle position, 30 in the small ring position)
> Bottom Bracket: Shimano UN55 68 x 118mm
> Pedals: No pedals, I'm keeping the Speedplay platforms currently
> installed.
> Hubs: Profile Racing Elite 6 bolt disc, 32h, black, QR, HG 11 speed road
> freehub body, Shimano XT skewers. I'll also include the end caps and
> hardware to convert hubs to bolt on.
> Rims: Sun Ringle Rhyno Lites, 32h, black with machined sidewalls
> Spokes/nipples, DT Swiss Competition, black, DT Swiss silver brass nipples
> Tires: Schwalbe Marathon 700 x 50, regular inner tubes
> Seat Post: Thomson Elite, silver. I'll include the Nitto post as well.
> Saddle: Brooks Cambium C17
> Front rack: Nitto Mark's Rack, silver with Wald 137 Basket
> Fenders: Planet Bike Cascadia 29 x 65mm, Black
>
> On Monday, April 8, 2024 at 3:55:05 PM UTC-7 eric swain wrote:
>
>> Hey folks,
>>
>> Some of you may remember I tried selling my Appaloosa back in 2020. Well
>> at that time I decided to keep it, change a few parts, and have really
>> enjoyed it since then. Fun bike to ride, great set up for commuting,
>> running errands, dawdling around the neighborhood, and general bicycle
>> shenanigans. Fast forward to present times: my quiver has grown to a
>> ridiculous amount of bikes, my personal riding focus has shifted, I have a
>> new bike on the way, and I may be moving soon. I do not have room for every
>> bike and with a potential move I need scale back on large items, like
>> bikes. So this one is back up for sale!
>>
>> I am asking $2000 as pictured(minus pedals). Including the Outershell
>> Wald 137 basket bag, Makeshifter Snackhole stem bag, Zefal frame pump, Paul
>> Gino light mount, and King cages. Bike is located in Portland OR. Test
>> rides are welcome. Boxing and shipping is no problem. Here is a link to
>> more pics and the geo.
>>
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/119mQzJCLMtSAMxge007HSiDUI9lv76W4?usp=sharing
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Eric
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: AliExpress

2024-04-05 Thread Patrick Moore
For the 13-25 (Soma slick wheelset) I bought about 3 cassettes' worth of
 Miche cogs with extras for the high-use gears, and the outer/small is a
dedicated outer/small with its own spacer.

For the new 14-25 knobby cassette I bought 3 14-25 9 speeds from Peter
White ($28 each, not bad) and disassembled them to replace the spacers and
swap the 21 for a 20 and the 23 for a 22 and add a 28 after the 25. So the
14 outer is a proper Shimano outer with its own spacer (I guess that this
spacer is 2.5 mm? I used Miche 2 mm spacers for the rest of the cassette;
it all shifts perfectly [and the 7402 short cage climbs onto the 28 with no
fuss at all, with capacity to spare].

For a some-time-ago Ram I built a 15-25 9 speed cassette out of Miche
cogs*, and Miche made 15 and 14 t outers for Shimano with built-in spacers;
I think these are used among other places for junior racing.

But I've used all sorts of cogs for the outer position, sometimes just
cramming a regular inner-position cog into first place and just squeezing
it tightly in place with a lot of torque on the lockring. I've never had
one of these skip, but then I rarely use the outer and certainly not under
high torque.

*I got a lovely DA 7410 crank and wanted to use it in place of the TA 46/28
13-something, so I swapped out the 53/39 for a very compact 52/38 and built
the 15-25 to give me very similar gears with the much bigger rings.

On Fri, Apr 5, 2024 at 11:57 AM Garth  wrote:

> I ordered some things on Mar. 27th Patrick and they arrived April 3rd. The
> USPS label had a NJ address, but it said "not for returns". Then I noticed
> that label was placed over another label, so I peeled it back as best I
> could and sure enough, I saw an all Chinese printed label, the only English
> I saw was my name. So they must send these via air from China to NJ and
> relabel them with a USPS label. You being in NM they'll likely come from a
> West coast location upon arrival from China. I didn't pay anything extra
> for shipping either.
>
> When you make your own cassettes Patrick, what do you use for the small
> cog next to the lockring ? I see only the 11t and 12t serrated cogs are
> sold, but I know Miche and Shimano sell cassettes with 13,14 and 15t
> smallest cogs. Do you just tighten up against a regular cog without the
> serrations ?
> On Friday, April 5, 2024 at 12:57:25 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> Thanks again, Garth. I just ordered 10X 2.0, 2.18, and 2.35 mm Shimano
>> spacers for total of $30.20 with shipping and tax. AE did well with my
>> clumsily-placed orders of Shimano 10 sp cogs (instead of thinking ahead and
>> making 1 order for 3 different sizes I frenziedly hit "buy" 3 times and
>> paid extra for shipping); far easier than trying to get a LBS to find and
>> order 3 each of 3 cogs, and far cheaper than ordering from Europe, where
>> shipping costs seem to have tripled since COVID.
>>
>> Curious about AliExpress: search for a 22 t Shimano 10 sp cog and you get
>> 2 dozen offerings many of which give you a price of $0.83 and when you
>> click "yes please" they don't let you buy more than 1, or else the price
>> skyrockets to $2.72 -- still very cheap, of course.
>>
>> I received my shipments in a bit over a week with shipping for small
>> packages of 3 or 4 cogs under $7,  which leads me to wonder if they don't
>> have warehouses scattered around in their biggest markets, like the US?
>>
>> At any rate, with spacers of 3 different widths I figure I'm well sorted
>> for any cassette build; as Garth very helpfully pointed out, Miche 10-sp
>> Shimano substitute cogs are 0.2 mm wider in the body (1.8 mm versus 1.6 mm
>> for Shimano cogs) tho' their teeth are 1.6 mm; which means that they take 2
>> mm instead of 2.35 mm spacers -- the total width is about 36 mm in either
>> case.
>>
>> But the cassette I built on Saturday with 10 1.6 mm cogs and 9 2 mm
>> spacers shifts just as well and identically to the other 10 sp cassetted
>> made from 10 Miche cogs and 9 2 mm spacers, without any derailleur
>> adjustment; so who knows. I did order 2.18 mm ones to split the difference.
>>
>> --
>>
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>
>> ---
>>
>> Executive resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, letters, and other writing
>> services
>>
>>
>> ---
>>
>> *When thou didst not, savage, k**now thine own meaning,*
>>
>> *But wouldst gabble like a** thing most brutish,*
>&g

[RBW] AliExpress

2024-04-05 Thread Patrick Moore
Thanks again, Garth. I just ordered 10X 2.0, 2.18, and 2.35 mm Shimano
spacers for total of $30.20 with shipping and tax. AE did well with my
clumsily-placed orders of Shimano 10 sp cogs (instead of thinking ahead and
making 1 order for 3 different sizes I frenziedly hit "buy" 3 times and
paid extra for shipping); far easier than trying to get a LBS to find and
order 3 each of 3 cogs, and far cheaper than ordering from Europe, where
shipping costs seem to have tripled since COVID.

Curious about AliExpress: search for a 22 t Shimano 10 sp cog and you get 2
dozen offerings many of which give you a price of $0.83 and when you click
"yes please" they don't let you buy more than 1, or else the price
skyrockets to $2.72 -- still very cheap, of course.

I received my shipments in a bit over a week with shipping for small
packages of 3 or 4 cogs under $7,  which leads me to wonder if they don't
have warehouses scattered around in their biggest markets, like the US?

At any rate, with spacers of 3 different widths I figure I'm well sorted
for any cassette build; as Garth very helpfully pointed out, Miche 10-sp
Shimano substitute cogs are 0.2 mm wider in the body (1.8 mm versus 1.6 mm
for Shimano cogs) tho' their teeth are 1.6 mm; which means that they take 2
mm instead of 2.35 mm spacers -- the total width is about 36 mm in either
case.

But the cassette I built on Saturday with 10 1.6 mm cogs and 9 2 mm spacers
shifts just as well and identically to the other 10 sp cassetted made from
10 Miche cogs and 9 2 mm spacers, without any derailleur adjustment; so who
knows. I did order 2.18 mm ones to split the difference.

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[RBW] Rivendell style

2024-04-04 Thread Patrick Moore
For those of you too refined to read Bike Snob regularly, you might want to
make an exception for today's (Thursday's) post for Rivendell build canons
and style rules. Video included of new Riv owner anxious about acceptance
in the Rivendell World. [35-year-old narrator needs training in public
speaking.] [Recall when a schtick about Calvin's ~35-year-old father was
his mid-30s decrepitude and the absurdity of a middle-aged man riding a
bicycle in the wind, rain, and snow. "Time just gets away from us."]

This was fun:

And finally, your Rivendell bicycle should feature a highly improvisational
handlebar treatment:

Basically it’s like the Velominati on acid.

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[RBW] ISO Carradice Zip Roll or similar in size and quality, black, red, green

2024-04-04 Thread Patrick Moore
The black and green are $59+ change at Carradice but now it costs over $21
for shipping such a small item.

Looking for a good quality Zip Roll, *not tweed!!!* -- for sale or trade.
Any color but no damned tweed.

Open to similar design and similar size bags by other makers.

Please reply offlist.

Thanks, Patrick

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Re: [RBW] Re: Long Chainstays - What Problem/Deficiency Do They Solve?

2024-04-04 Thread Patrick Moore
Here's one benefit of very long chainstays:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2xXRjXv_4v0

You couldn't do that on any of my road Rivs or my Sam.

Patrick Moore, who used to use his right foot to brake the 24" front wheel
in 28"-wheel fork on his very first build when riding the fw bike without
other brakes in heavy traffic and down steep, winding hills on traffic
arteries.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Gearing Choices

2024-04-03 Thread Patrick Moore
Piaw: It's easy and, thanks to AliExpress, relatively cheap to build your
own cassettes from loose parts -- at least, perhaps not for really huge
cogs. But a half step + granny could give me, anyway, nice close cruising
gears in the 75" to 60" range plus a downhill gear or two and some low
bailout gears.

I did this long ago for a commuter with 48/45 or 47/44 rings and a 7 speed
cassette, something like 13-32, half-stepping (more or less) the middle 5
cogs with cruising gears in the middle, and using the small for a downhill
gear and the big for a bailout gear:

25" wheel:
48 45
12 100
13 92 87
15 80 75
17 71 66
20 60 56
24 50 47
32 35

BTW, this shifted very nicely from hoods, ramps, and hooks with Kelley
Take-Offs, on pavement; would not want KTOs on bumpy dirt.


Generally speaking, though, with 9 cogs or more I prefer crossover, and
 I'll trade top high and bottom low for close middle ratios; with a 10
speed cassette giving many more possibilities and the new knobby 50 mm
Oracle Ridges requiring slightly lower sandy dirt gearing,  my Matthews
"road bike for (sandy) dirt" has a sub-compact plus granny:

28 1/2" wheel:
44 28
14 90
15 84
16 78
17 74
18 70
19 66
20 63 40
22 57 36
25 50 32
28 45 29




On Wed, Apr 3, 2024 at 10:54 AM Piaw Na  wrote:

> I'm a big fan of half-step + granny for 7-speed rear cassettes and
> freewheels. I think I even wrote an article about it for the Rivendell
> Reader at one point (good luck digging it up!). What killed it for me was
> once cassettes got to the point where constructing your cassette was no
> longer supported or too much work, it was no longer practical

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Re: [RBW] Re: [BOB] Re: Bump! ISO: 10-speed spacers. And question.

2024-04-03 Thread Patrick Moore
As a matter of fact, I've never used my Miche 10 sp cassettes with a 10 sp
chain but I suppose those must also work. (Since I built those Miche 10 sp
cassettes, I've used a chain "1 generation later" than the cassette because
web scuttlebutt says that this promotes crisper shifting. At least, I have
found no evidence to the contrary -- shifting is wonderful, as it is with
the same chain and the cassette made from 1.6 mm Shimano cogs and the same
2 mm spacers.)

On Wed, Apr 3, 2024 at 8:58 AM Patrick Moore  wrote:

> ...  At any rate, an 11 speed chain works fine on those 10 sp Miche cogs.
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: [BOB] Re: Bump! ISO: 10-speed spacers. And question.

2024-04-03 Thread Patrick Moore
Thanks, Ted. I reviewed Sheldon's chart and saw these measurements for 7
thru 10; where did you find the 11 sp measurements?

I'll be interested in you related post.

The 10 sp Miche cogs are odd. The Shimano 10 speeds measure 1.6 mm wide
across the cog, the Miche ones measure 1.6 mm at the teeth but ~1.8 mm or
so below tooth level; thus the 2 mm spacers, I guess. At any rate, an 11
speed chain works fine on those 10 sp Miche cogs.

Yes, someone please assemble a complete chart for at least Shimano
cassettes, freehub bodies, cogs, spaces, and chains.

On Wed, Apr 3, 2024 at 8:05 AM Ted Durant  wrote:

> FWIW, the center-center spacing for Shimano cogs is:
>
> 7sp 5.00
> 8sp 4.80
> 9sp 4.35
> 10sp 3.95
> 11sp Road 3.69
> 11sp MTB 3.90
>
> Sorry, I don’t have 12 and 13.
>
> Cog + spacer widths need to add to those numbers. Theoretically you can
> use thinner cogs than spec with wider spacers, but you would run into
> trouble with chain fit using thicker cogs with thinner spacers. If somebody
> finds or assembles a complete table of cog and spacer thickness spec’s,
> that would be a significant contribution to humankind.
>
> I’ll be posting on a related topic, soon.
>
> Ted Durant
> Milwaukee WI USA
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Eroica California

2024-04-02 Thread Patrick Moore
I certainly won't be riding Eroica, but I am very interested in hearing
more from RBW-listers who will be, and to hearing about and seeing pictures
of the bikes they plan to ride in the event, doubtless Rivendell KOF bikes.

I'm certainly not a vintage enthusiast as exhibited on the CR list, but I
guess my bikes, all customs at this point, are KOFs, more or less, and
feature old and even ancient componentry, tho' not so much (a *little,* but
not *principally*) for the historical schtick as for the type of riding I
like, which in many respects can't be achieved with modern components --
multispeed, commuter and errand fixed gear road bikes, fat-tire sandy
but pavement-worthy road bikes, light, fixed-gear gofast road bikes;
eventually, beater, nice-light-531-frame fixed gear errand bikes.

I do think that a Rambouillet, Heron, Roadeo, RoadUno, Quickbeam, Roadini,
Redwood, etc etc, not to mention Riv Road customs, can fit right into the
Eroica mold and I'd love to see Eroica-approved Rivendell builds.

On Tue, Apr 2, 2024 at 2:59 PM Jkarlin  wrote:

> I'm also curious about this. I tried sending an email to the contact on
> the webpage (*i...@eroicacalifornia.com)*, but I got a message back
> saying the address couldn't be found or was unable to receive mail.
>
> On Tuesday, April 2, 2024 at 9:41:21 AM UTC-7 chefd...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Curious if anyone on this forum is also a Vintage enthusiast and has
>> interest in the Eroica event that is run on the Central Coast of
>> California. I've ridden it a few times on my PX-10... its a great ride,
>> although the organization that runs the event has had its ups and downs
>> over the years. Currently, the website lists September 22, 2024 as the run
>> date, but the registration button leads to last year's sign-updoes
>> anyone have any better intel?
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: [BOB] Re: Bump! ISO: 10-speed spacers. And question.

2024-04-02 Thread Patrick Moore
Thanks, Garth; I get that impression. I'll probably order lots of both 2.0
and 2.35. Thanks again for the link.

Patrick Moore, who would find life much easier if he really knew what he
was doing (but then again, that's what lists are for).



On Tue, Apr 2, 2024 at 12:22 PM Garth  wrote:

> I don't think it has to be exact down to the .00's Patrick, even if
> indexing, certainly not for friction shifting. Use the 2mm ones you have. I
> don't think the plastic spacers compress in a cassette. You might be able
> to gouge one with a sharp instrument, but to compress the entire circle in
> a relatively low torque setting ? I think not.
> On Tuesday, April 2, 2024 at 2:06:57 PM UTC-4 travis...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Patrick:
>>
>> As Roseanne Rosanadanna said many times and many years ago: "You sure
>> gotta lotta questions."
>>
>>  Which are the same question.
>>
>> Go to a bike shop and hand over a $tenner for a collection of used / worn
>> cassettes, explaining that spider-less ones are of special interest because
>> you want spacers, not cogs.
>>
>> Why you want only Shimano and not SRAM or any aftermarket cassettes
>> spacers is something you can keep secret. Me? I get infinite miles out of
>> cassette spacers. And they are in my DEI program and practice
>>
>>
>> --
>> Harry P Travis
>> Portland Oregon USA
>> 17.4.1
>>
>> On Apr 2, 2024, at 10:54 AM, Patrick Moore  wrote:
>>
>> 
>>
>> I forgot to add that Sheldon says 2.35 mm for 10 sp; but mine (assume 10
>> sp because so ordered) are 2.04, again consistently with Park digital
>> caliper. Is 2.04 (or 2 mm -- willing to consider 4/100 mm user or
>> instrument error, or mfr error) for 11 speed? At any rate, my various 10 sp
>> home brew cassettes have been shifting wonderfully with the 2.04 mm ones.
>>
>> And someone on the RBW list pointed me to the right page on AliExpress
>> where I can find 2.35, 2.18, and 2.0 as well as 2.5 mm. Just want
>> clarification on the 2.0/2.04 and confirmation for the 2.35.
>>
>> It's all so confusing.
>>
>> On Tue, Apr 2, 2024 at 11:43 AM Patrick Moore  wrote:
>>
>>> *ISO* at least 7 and better 9, 10-speed spacers. Happy to salvage from
>>> worn out cassette. Please? $, trade, or charity.
>>>
>>> *Question: *Where can I find a reliable chart showing manufacturer's
>>> (Shimano; not interested in other mfrs) width specs for spacers and cogs
>>> for 9, 10, and 11 speed drivetrains? If chains included, so much the
>>> better. Sheldon has a chart that includes 9 and 10 but does not include 11
>>> but I'd like to compare 11 and confirm 9 and 10.
>>>
>>> The 2 spare 10-sp cassette spacers I have (red plastic, ordered for
>>> Shimano 10 sp from Cycle Clinic)  measure 2.04 mm, but I stumbled across 6
>>> alum spacers that measure 2mm. Are these alum spacers for 11 sp?
>>>
>>> At any rate, I would like to find at least 7, better 9 2.04 mm spacers
>>> for the Shimano spline pattern.
>>>
>>> I can find them new online for $6 per + shipping; can't find them on
>>> AliExpress; if youse plural have online sources reasonably priced, I'd be
>>> grateful to hear of them.
>>>
>>> Thanks.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sat, Mar 30, 2024 at 2:34 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:
>>>
>>>> Welp, the otherwise very competent LBS that built my new Oracle Ridge
>>>> wheelset flubbed my special order of a dozen 10-sp Shimano spacers. I stole
>>>> the spacers from the older, Soma slick wheelset, but I'd like to find at
>>>> least 9 and up to a dozen 10 sp spacers. A second LBS I checked with just
>>>> now doesn't carry loose spacers, at least, unless you can find them in an
>>>>  ods-and-ends bin.
>>>>
>>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>
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>>
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>> services
>>
>>
>> ---
>>
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>>
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>>
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>>
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[RBW] Re: Bump! ISO: 10-speed spacers. And question.

2024-04-02 Thread Patrick Moore
Perhaps -- guessing -- the 2.0 spacer is for 11 sp cassettes, and the
(consistently measured) 2.04 mm plastic ones are so made to accommodate a
bit of compression which the 2.0 (consistent) aluminum ones don't suffer?

So: 2.0 = 11 speed?

2.35: 10 speed?

2.54: 9 speed?

Cogs:

11 speed: ?

10 speed: 1.6 mm per Sheldon and my caliper

9 speed: ~1.8 mm per Sheldon (1.78) and my caliper.

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[RBW] Re: Bump! ISO: 10-speed spacers. And question.

2024-04-02 Thread Patrick Moore
I forgot to add that Sheldon says 2.35 mm for 10 sp; but mine (assume 10 sp
because so ordered) are 2.04, again consistently with Park digital caliper.
Is 2.04 (or 2 mm -- willing to consider 4/100 mm user or instrument error,
or mfr error) for 11 speed? At any rate, my various 10 sp home brew
cassettes have been shifting wonderfully with the 2.04 mm ones.

And someone on the RBW list pointed me to the right page on AliExpress
where I can find 2.35, 2.18, and 2.0 as well as 2.5 mm. Just want
clarification on the 2.0/2.04 and confirmation for the 2.35.

It's all so confusing.

On Tue, Apr 2, 2024 at 11:43 AM Patrick Moore  wrote:

> *ISO* at least 7 and better 9, 10-speed spacers. Happy to salvage from
> worn out cassette. Please? $, trade, or charity.
>
> *Question: *Where can I find a reliable chart showing manufacturer's
> (Shimano; not interested in other mfrs) width specs for spacers and cogs
> for 9, 10, and 11 speed drivetrains? If chains included, so much the
> better. Sheldon has a chart that includes 9 and 10 but does not include 11
> but I'd like to compare 11 and confirm 9 and 10.
>
> The 2 spare 10-sp cassette spacers I have (red plastic, ordered for
> Shimano 10 sp from Cycle Clinic)  measure 2.04 mm, but I stumbled across 6
> alum spacers that measure 2mm. Are these alum spacers for 11 sp?
>
> At any rate, I would like to find at least 7, better 9 2.04 mm spacers for
> the Shimano spline pattern.
>
> I can find them new online for $6 per + shipping; can't find them on
> AliExpress; if youse plural have online sources reasonably priced, I'd be
> grateful to hear of them.
>
> Thanks.
>
>
>
> On Sat, Mar 30, 2024 at 2:34 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:
>
>> Welp, the otherwise very competent LBS that built my new Oracle Ridge
>> wheelset flubbed my special order of a dozen 10-sp Shimano spacers. I stole
>> the spacers from the older, Soma slick wheelset, but I'd like to find at
>> least 9 and up to a dozen 10 sp spacers. A second LBS I checked with just
>> now doesn't carry loose spacers, at least, unless you can find them in an
>>  ods-and-ends bin.
>>
>

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[RBW] 10 speed spacers: source found, but now confusion and question.

2024-04-02 Thread Patrick Moore
Re-threading this:

Thanks, Garth; you're fingers are obviously more deft than mine.

But a question, because now I'm confused (per other thread): how wide are
Shimano 10 sp spacers?

You say 2.35, Sheldon says 2.35mm, mine measure consistent 2.04 mm -- the
red plastic ones I ordered from Cycle Clinic (expressly for 10 sp
cassettes) in 2020. *And * I found a half-dozen alum spacers in my bin that
measure a consistent 2.0 mm.

So: is 2.04 -- 2.0 the 11 speed spacer?

The 14-28 10 sp cassette, as well as the 13-25, both use the red 2.04 mm
spacers with an 11 sp chain and it all shifts wonderfully.

*SO:* please tell me what I want!

Thanks!

On Tue, Apr 2, 2024 at 11:28 AM Garth  wrote:

> I case you come up empty here Patrick, there's aliexpress wholesale
> website. I've ordered from the website from various companies without any
> issues.
> https://www.aliexpress.us/w/wholesale-10-speed-cassette-spacers-2.35mm.html.
> You can also get spare cogs there.
> https://www.aliexpress.us/w/wholesale-10-speed-cassette-cogs.html
>
> If anyone made an 7-speed freehub, and it didn't make noise, I'd buy some
> and make my own cassettes.
>

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[RBW] Bump! ISO: 10-speed spacers. And question.

2024-04-02 Thread Patrick Moore
*ISO* at least 7 and better 9, 10-speed spacers. Happy to salvage from worn
out cassette. Please? $, trade, or charity.

*Question: *Where can I find a reliable chart showing manufacturer's
(Shimano; not interested in other mfrs) width specs for spacers and cogs
for 9, 10, and 11 speed drivetrains? If chains included, so much the
better. Sheldon has a chart that includes 9 and 10 but does not include 11
but I'd like to compare 11 and confirm 9 and 10.

The 2 spare 10-sp cassette spacers I have (red plastic, ordered for Shimano
10 sp from Cycle Clinic)  measure 2.04 mm, but I stumbled across 6 alum
spacers that measure 2mm. Are these alum spacers for 11 sp?

At any rate, I would like to find at least 7, better 9 2.04 mm spacers for
the Shimano spline pattern.

I can find them new online for $6 per + shipping; can't find them on
AliExpress; if youse plural have online sources reasonably priced, I'd be
grateful to hear of them.

Thanks.



On Sat, Mar 30, 2024 at 2:34 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:

> Welp, the otherwise very competent LBS that built my new Oracle Ridge
> wheelset flubbed my special order of a dozen 10-sp Shimano spacers. I stole
> the spacers from the older, Soma slick wheelset, but I'd like to find at
> least 9 and up to a dozen 10 sp spacers. A second LBS I checked with just
> now doesn't carry loose spacers, at least, unless you can find them in an
>  ods-and-ends bin.
>

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Re: [RBW] FFS: one year's worth of Bicycle Quarterly

2024-03-31 Thread Patrick Moore
Paul: I'll take them!

Patrick Moore

On Sun, Mar 31, 2024 at 12:58 PM Paul Richardson 
wrote:

> i have up for grabs the three most recent issues of BQ--nos. 83, 84, and
> 85.  yours for $9, paypal f+f or cash.
>
> thanks
> paul
> takoma park, md.
>
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Re: [RBW] Long Chainstays - What Problem/Deficiency Do They Solve?

2024-03-31 Thread Patrick Moore
Grant extended the chainstays on my road customs from an XO-1-length 42 cm
on the 1995 to 45 cm (to end of horizontal dropouts; Chauncey extended them
by another cm or so with even longer dropouts) on the later 2, and I don't
know if this is a problem and a solution, but the later 2 customs handled
noticeably better than the first (which was noticeably better with similar
wheels, tires, and build than the 1992 XO-1). The latter 2 have become my
handling benchmark by exhibiting even more than the first-gen Sam and
second-gen Ram the perfect combination of cornering nimbleness with
unerring stability. The first was not quite stable enough (the XO-1 neither
as stable nor as perfect in turn-in), the Ram very balanced but for my
taste a bit staid, and the Sam tracked too strongly -- didn't want to
change a line -- in fast corners and exhibited front-end wag on slow,
seated climbs.

Chauncey built my 2 Matthews with similar geometry and they exhibit similar
handling.

On Sun, Mar 31, 2024 at 11:50 AM 'John Hawrylak, Woodstown NJ' via RBW
Owners Bunch  wrote:

> Enjoyed reading the thread "Anyone else not a fan of long chainstays?",
> especially Bill L's explanation of the RBW bike design philosophy.   Seems
> the prevailing thought is long stays are better for
> upright riding
> single track type trails (vs a Rails to Trails type trail)
>
> I'll just note 2 'facts'
> 1  The vast majority of RBW models (except the Roadeo type frame) use
> slack STA and HTA which may contribute to the ride effect when coupled with
> long stays.
> 2.  In the beginning RBW addressed getting the bars higher and adopting a
> non-racer riding style (back at 45° with hands on hoods), which IMHO were
> solutions to actual problems.
>
> *So What problem or current deficiency in bike design is Grant solving by
> using long chain stays*
> Just to bring bikes to market that no one else is building??
> Or do they solve a real problem???
>
> John Hawrylak
> Woodstown NJ
>
> FWIW 2 of 3 of my frames have 44 to 45cm chain stays, and 1 has a 43cm
> chain stay.It's hard to notice a ride difference.
>
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[RBW] ISO: 10-speed spacers

2024-03-30 Thread Patrick Moore
Welp, the otherwise very competent LBS that built my new Oracle Ridge
wheelset flubbed my special order of a dozen 10-sp Shimano spacers. I stole
the spacers from the older, Soma slick wheelset, but I'd like to find at
least 9 and up to a dozen 10 sp spacers. A second LBS I checked with just
now doesn't carry loose spacers, at least, unless you can find them in an
 ods-and-ends bin.

Does anyone have spares, or perhaps a worn out or otherwise unwanted 10 sp
cassette? They measure IIRC about 1.6 mm.

Thanks. Happy to buy, trade, or accept charity.

Patrick "14-15-16-17-18-19-20-22-25-28" Moore, in ABQ, NM

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[RBW] Anecdatum: Single datapoint "pro" for dynamo lighting.

2024-03-27 Thread Patrick Moore
I think there has been a recent thread or 2, or perhaps just thread
tangents, about dynamo lighting versus battery lighting. Here's my $0.05.

I  rushed off to Presanctified liturgy (Orthodox Lent is a month behind
Catholic Lent for reasons I don't understand) this evening at 5 pm after a
pretty full work day, riding the 2020 Matthews IGH road bike. I am usually
pretty good at getting all my riding kit together the night before, or at
least the morning before, but as I passed the outbound 3 mile or so mark I
realized that I'd forgotten all my reflective gear. I usually wear a bright
reflective Sam Browne or big Rivendell triangle as well as bright and wide
ankle reflectors on both legs.

But I was safe; the IGH Matthews has a SON 20R powering a 1st-gen Edeluxe
as well as a Secula seatstay-mount tail light and that big B rack-mount
one with a ring of LEDs around a central reflector. I had remembered to
attach my B Ixion IQ Premium AA battery light to augment the feeble
Edeluxe standlight.

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Re: [RBW] WTB: chainring guard for 38 tooth chainring

2024-03-26 Thread Patrick Moore
Roberta: If you can't find a Rivendell guard you might consider BBG
Bashguard: many designs, most bcds, most look good and are inexpensive.

https://bbgbashguard.com

On Tue, Mar 26, 2024 at 12:40 AM Roberta  wrote:

> I’m looking for the Riv one
> https://www.rivbike.com/products/silver-chainring-guard?variant=31122825019503
> or the New Albion  one or something similar. The Rivendell one is my
> preference. Both are sold out.
>
> I'm attaching pics of blue Homer with the Riv one, mermaid Platypus with
> the New Albion one, and Betty Foy in need of one.
>
> Shipping to Philadelphia 19106. Please PM me off list.
>
> Thank you.
>
> Roberta
>
>
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Re: [RBW] FS: Alpacka Packraft Setup + Aquabound Paddle

2024-03-25 Thread Patrick Moore
Thanks, Collin; insights into a new -- to me -- pastime. If I were younger
I might have tried it on the Rio Grande.

Folbots: I remember those being advertised at the way back of National
Geographics in the 1960s.

On Mon, Mar 25, 2024 at 2:19 PM Collin A  wrote:

> Patrick,
>
> I've posted my "Joe-Rafter" here before and I think John Rinkler picked
> one up in the winter?
>
> But yes, this raft was designed with having a heavy bike loaded on the
> front of the raft, no mini/foldable/small wheeled bike required. I
> essentially used it to bike up river, strap my bike to it, paddle down
> river, hop back on the bike, then pedal home. It saves having to stage a
> car as your friends and most others with a kayak do it. Its not as fast as
> a kayak (although, that's partly due to the engine as the argument goes),
> but also exceedingly light and packable. So the idea is you never have to
> worry about locking/staging anything and just bring everything with you on
> all legs of the trip!
>
> I added another photo and video of what its like with the bike on the
> front of the raft.
>
> Collin
>
> On Monday, March 25, 2024 at 1:03:10 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> I'm not in the market, sorry, but I find that little inflatable very
>> interesting. Is the boat designed specifically for packing on a bike, then
>> floating the bike down river, then back to bike packing? I didn't know that
>> this combination was a thing.
>>
>> And isn't the Appaloosa a long wheelbase model? Do they make
>> kayak-specific bikes? (Recall a long-ago Boblist member planning a custom
>> small-wheel backpacking bike for wilderness trips.)
>>
>> The reason I'm interested is that my next door neighbor (ex Serotta
>> brazer back when Serotta built in steel and former roadie, but as a mail
>> carrier nearing 60 he now finds that his daily load carrying uses up his
>> energy) and his wife like to pack inflatable kayaks to the Rio Grande (the
>> river is about 1/2 mile East of my front door, but they pack the kayak/s
>> north to a Corrales entry point), float downriver about 6-8 miles, then
>> take the other car back to pick up the first car. I think *he* once or
>> twice packed the kayak north on his bike, locked bike, floated down, then
>> drove back to pick up bike.
>>
>> If you or anyone else cares to post photos of kayak/boat excursions, I'd
>> be delighted to see them.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Mar 25, 2024 at 1:16 PM Collin A  wrote:
>>
>>> Folks,
>>>
>>> It is with a heavy feeling in my gut that I am posting my packraft setup
>>> for sale. I haven't used it since I moved away from Sacramento and I don't
>>> forsee it being something I continue with.
>>>
>>> Photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/wANwCsEVy5zK242K9
>>> Asking for $1000 shipped (plus 3% to cover G fees) for everything.
>>>
>>> You'll get:
>>>
>>>- Alpacka Carribou Bikerafting Raft - just the basic one (no bailer
>>>or internal storage) that comes in at about 5 lbs in blue. Comes with the
>>>seat, inflation bag, storage sack, and a mini-repair setup. No tears,
>>>abrasions, repairs, etc. Only used in freshwater, and cleaned/air dried
>>>after every use.
>>>   - https://www.alpackaraft.com/products/caribou
>>>   - Aquabound Whisky 4-piece fiberglass paddle in *sunwave*. This
>>>is *light* and packs down small for easy carrying on the bike. It
>>>was bought as a cosmetic second so its got some inconsistencies in the
>>>epoxy, but is structurally sound. There is one itty bitty chip in one of
>>>the paddles in the outermost layer, but otherwise pretty good condition.
>>>200cm length
>>>   - Whiskey Fiberglass 4-Piece Straight Shaft Kayak Paddle | Aqua
>>>   Bound
>>>   
>>> <https://aquabound.com/collections/packrafting-paddles/products/whiskey-fiberglass-4-piece-straight-shaft?variant=39485546692657>
>>>   - Not pictured, but a little waterproof holder to hang onto your
>>>phone, wallet, etc. very useful in keeping the important stuff dry.
>>>   - https://www.alpackaraft.com/products/lap-bag
>>>
>>> Backstory:
>>> I picked up the raft and paddle in mid-COVID (Spring 2021) and used it
>>> extensively with my appaloosa during my time in Sacramento - pedaling up
>>> the American River Trail to the Nimbus fish hatchery and then paddling down
>>> the river back to paradise beach in Sacramento (about 3-4 hours of
>>> leisurely floating). I also used it once

Re: [RBW] FS: Alpacka Packraft Setup + Aquabound Paddle

2024-03-25 Thread Patrick Moore
"They" is the unspecified general predicate, not "Rivendell."

On Mon, Mar 25, 2024 at 2:02 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:

> ... Do they make kayak-specific bikes?
>

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Re: [RBW] FS: Alpacka Packraft Setup + Aquabound Paddle

2024-03-25 Thread Patrick Moore
I'm not in the market, sorry, but I find that little inflatable very
interesting. Is the boat designed specifically for packing on a bike, then
floating the bike down river, then back to bike packing? I didn't know that
this combination was a thing.

And isn't the Appaloosa a long wheelbase model? Do they make kayak-specific
bikes? (Recall a long-ago Boblist member planning a custom small-wheel
backpacking bike for wilderness trips.)

The reason I'm interested is that my next door neighbor (ex Serotta brazer
back when Serotta built in steel and former roadie, but as a mail carrier
nearing 60 he now finds that his daily load carrying uses up his energy)
and his wife like to pack inflatable kayaks to the Rio Grande (the river is
about 1/2 mile East of my front door, but they pack the kayak/s north to a
Corrales entry point), float downriver about 6-8 miles, then take the other
car back to pick up the first car. I think *he* once or twice packed the
kayak north on his bike, locked bike, floated down, then drove back to pick
up bike.

If you or anyone else cares to post photos of kayak/boat excursions, I'd be
delighted to see them.



On Mon, Mar 25, 2024 at 1:16 PM Collin A  wrote:

> Folks,
>
> It is with a heavy feeling in my gut that I am posting my packraft setup
> for sale. I haven't used it since I moved away from Sacramento and I don't
> forsee it being something I continue with.
>
> Photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/wANwCsEVy5zK242K9
> Asking for $1000 shipped (plus 3% to cover G fees) for everything.
>
> You'll get:
>
>- Alpacka Carribou Bikerafting Raft - just the basic one (no bailer or
>internal storage) that comes in at about 5 lbs in blue. Comes with the
>seat, inflation bag, storage sack, and a mini-repair setup. No tears,
>abrasions, repairs, etc. Only used in freshwater, and cleaned/air dried
>after every use.
>   - https://www.alpackaraft.com/products/caribou
>   - Aquabound Whisky 4-piece fiberglass paddle in *sunwave*. This is
>*light* and packs down small for easy carrying on the bike. It was
>bought as a cosmetic second so its got some inconsistencies in the epoxy,
>but is structurally sound. There is one itty bitty chip in one of the
>paddles in the outermost layer, but otherwise pretty good condition. 200cm
>length
>   - Whiskey Fiberglass 4-Piece Straight Shaft Kayak Paddle | Aqua
>   Bound
>   
> <https://aquabound.com/collections/packrafting-paddles/products/whiskey-fiberglass-4-piece-straight-shaft?variant=39485546692657>
>   - Not pictured, but a little waterproof holder to hang onto your
>phone, wallet, etc. very useful in keeping the important stuff dry.
>   - https://www.alpackaraft.com/products/lap-bag
>
> Backstory:
> I picked up the raft and paddle in mid-COVID (Spring 2021) and used it
> extensively with my appaloosa during my time in Sacramento - pedaling up
> the American River Trail to the Nimbus fish hatchery and then paddling down
> the river back to paradise beach in Sacramento (about 3-4 hours of
> leisurely floating). I also used it once for camping up at Folsom lake
> Peninsula Campground, which was a hoot and mildly scary.
>
> It served as a great extension to my normal bike rides during the hot
> summer months and the weird time of COVID, and really opened up my eyes to
> what you can accomplish via bike. If you have a river near you, I'd
> strongly recommend giving it a shot.
>
> Collin in Riverless Berkeley
>
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>


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Re: [RBW] It's New Bike What?

2024-03-23 Thread Patrick Moore
Thanks, Corwin. I'm a pedal snob and love lightweight SPD-type pedals, and
there's a (earlier version?) pair of Micros on eBay for $25, but I just
read reviews of the Micros and apparently their cleats and SPD cleats
aren't compatible; too bad, since I have SPDs on all my bikes now.

Bike Radar weighed the Micro version they reviewed at 208 grams, lighter
even than the old Xpedo titanium spindle pedals with 180 lb weight limit in
my pedal stash, and a good 5 oz lighter than my go-to Dura Ace spds.

On Sat, Mar 23, 2024 at 12:30 PM Corwin Zechar  wrote:

> Hi Patrick -
>
> Love the Richey Micros. They are one-sided and weighted to be in the
> optimal position when you want to clip in.
>
> I've had lots of Schwalbe tires. I get flats on almost every ride with
> G-Ones. But the Hurricanes have never flatted. I have them on three bikes
> now: Hubbuhubbuh, Custom and Quickbeam. I really like the cushy ride of
> supple tires. But a tire that flats nearly every time I ride is of no use
> to me. Reliability is very important to me.
>
> Regards,
>
> CZ
>
> On Saturday, March 23, 2024 at 11:03:40 AM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> Lovely and intriguing! Certainly an eclectic build -- that's a positive.
>> How do you like the Hurricanes and the Ritchey Micros?
>>
>> On Sat, Mar 23, 2024 at 10:42 AM John Bokman  wrote:
>>
>>> That ride looks like so much fun! Love the color pop of the Red brakes
>>> on Purple frameset. Reminds me of days on my 1994 Maroon mustached XO-3.
>>> Also my 1990 MB2 (because it was also purple). Thanks for posting Corwin.
>>>
>>> John
>>>
>>> On Saturday, March 23, 2024 at 3:30:25 AM UTC-7 Eric Daume wrote:
>>>
>>>> Looks great, and I love the color, and the fat tires with
>>>> the Albastache combo.
>>>>
>>>> I think you win the Riv with the lowest bars award!
>>>>
>>>> Eric
>>>>
>>>> On Sat, Mar 23, 2024 at 2:03 AM Corwin Zechar  wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> It's definitely not new bike day. That was back in the first week of
>>>>> February. Not even New Bike Month. So it's New Bike Quarter?
>>>>>
>>>>> Anyway, I picked up my much anticipated and long-awaited custom
>>>>> Rivendell last month. Some interesting aspects include:
>>>>>
>>>>> 1) SRAM drop bar levers mounted on opposite sides (with respect to
>>>>> normal drop bar mounting) on Nitto Albastache bars - as suggested by Bill
>>>>> Lindsay.
>>>>>
>>>>> 2) A Fizik Aliante Gamma saddle recovered by Mick Peel in Australia
>>>>> and sporting the Rivendell logo.
>>>>>
>>>>> 3) A Rich Lesnik built wheelset with Onyx hubs and Velocity Quill rims.
>>>>>
>>>>> 4) SRAM rear derailer and SRAM bar-end shifters.
>>>>>
>>>>> 5) Shimano Ultegra 6650 compact double crankset with TA Specialities
>>>>> chainrings
>>>>>
>>>>> 6) Chris King bottom bracket with outboard bearings.
>>>>>
>>>>> 7) DT Swiss skewers.
>>>>>
>>>>> 8) Custom lug carving by Mark Nobilette.
>>>>>
>>>>> 9) Ritchey Micro Road pedals.
>>>>>
>>>>> 10) Tektro CX 8.4 short-pull V-brakes.
>>>>>
>>>>> The main difference between my new custom and the old custom are the
>>>>> cantilever posts and lug carving.
>>>>>
>>>>> I can report that my new custom feels just like my old custom -
>>>>> wherever it is. I rode the bike in the Redlands Strada Rossa last Saturday
>>>>> and it performed flawlessly - despite my lack of experience on dirt roads
>>>>> and singletrack.
>>>>>
>>>>> A few photos illustrating the most salient aspects follow...
>>>>>
>>>>> Regards,
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Corwin
>>>>>
>>>>> [image: drivetrain.jpg][image: carvedLugs.jpg]
>>>>>
>>>>> --
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>>>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-

Re: [RBW] It's New Bike What?

2024-03-23 Thread Patrick Moore
Lovely and intriguing! Certainly an eclectic build -- that's a positive.
How do you like the Hurricanes and the Ritchey Micros?

On Sat, Mar 23, 2024 at 10:42 AM John Bokman  wrote:

> That ride looks like so much fun! Love the color pop of the Red brakes on
> Purple frameset. Reminds me of days on my 1994 Maroon mustached XO-3. Also
> my 1990 MB2 (because it was also purple). Thanks for posting Corwin.
>
> John
>
> On Saturday, March 23, 2024 at 3:30:25 AM UTC-7 Eric Daume wrote:
>
>> Looks great, and I love the color, and the fat tires with the Albastache
>> combo.
>>
>> I think you win the Riv with the lowest bars award!
>>
>> Eric
>>
>> On Sat, Mar 23, 2024 at 2:03 AM Corwin Zechar  wrote:
>>
>>> It's definitely not new bike day. That was back in the first week of
>>> February. Not even New Bike Month. So it's New Bike Quarter?
>>>
>>> Anyway, I picked up my much anticipated and long-awaited custom
>>> Rivendell last month. Some interesting aspects include:
>>>
>>> 1) SRAM drop bar levers mounted on opposite sides (with respect to
>>> normal drop bar mounting) on Nitto Albastache bars - as suggested by Bill
>>> Lindsay.
>>>
>>> 2) A Fizik Aliante Gamma saddle recovered by Mick Peel in Australia and
>>> sporting the Rivendell logo.
>>>
>>> 3) A Rich Lesnik built wheelset with Onyx hubs and Velocity Quill rims.
>>>
>>> 4) SRAM rear derailer and SRAM bar-end shifters.
>>>
>>> 5) Shimano Ultegra 6650 compact double crankset with TA Specialities
>>> chainrings
>>>
>>> 6) Chris King bottom bracket with outboard bearings.
>>>
>>> 7) DT Swiss skewers.
>>>
>>> 8) Custom lug carving by Mark Nobilette.
>>>
>>> 9) Ritchey Micro Road pedals.
>>>
>>> 10) Tektro CX 8.4 short-pull V-brakes.
>>>
>>> The main difference between my new custom and the old custom are the
>>> cantilever posts and lug carving.
>>>
>>> I can report that my new custom feels just like my old custom - wherever
>>> it is. I rode the bike in the Redlands Strada Rossa last Saturday and it
>>> performed flawlessly - despite my lack of experience on dirt roads and
>>> singletrack.
>>>
>>> A few photos illustrating the most salient aspects follow...
>>>
>>> Regards,
>>>
>>>
>>> Corwin
>>>
>>> [image: drivetrain.jpg][image: carvedLugs.jpg]
>>>
>>> --
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send
>>> an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
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>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/a06f5b7c-d302-4630-975a-bd925b26cedan%40googlegroups.com
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>>> .
>>>
>> --
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Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
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*I endowed thy purposes w**ith words that made them known.*

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Re: [RBW] Re: I have questions

2024-03-23 Thread Patrick Moore
Thanks, Jason, I'm particularly heartened by "noise doesn't translate into
slowness." I can live with pavement buzz.

On Fri, Mar 22, 2024 at 9:17 PM Jason Fuller  wrote:

> Patrick: I've run the Umtanum (650x55) in endurance casing, and have pals
> I ride with regularly on the full range basically - 650x42, 650x48, and
> 700x38 but all on the endurance casing. I plan to try the Extralight
> version next, but honestly the Endurance doesn't feel stiff nor heavy.
> Every one of my riding pals who've taken the plunge have been singing their
> praises loud and far, and seemingly everyone I ride with is going to them
> now as a result.
>
> I will agree that they are not particularly quiet on the road, even the
> claimed noise-cancelling models. They're not nearly as quiet as a Gravel
> King SK. I will say though that they have a pleasant enough tone, and that
> noise doesn't translate to slowness at all - coming to realize this is
> critical to enjoying them fully. Much like we're sort of pre-programmed to
> believe that the feedback of skinny tires translates to speed, even though
> we know better now, the same is true of the buzz from knobby tires. Thanks
> to Strava I can confidently say that I'm not appreciably slower on the RH
> knobbies, though if I don't need them I'd prefer the silence of the slicks.
>
>
> On Fri, Mar 22, 2024 at 7:46 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:
>
>> Jason: Which RH knobbies, pray? I just scored a near-new, Normal Casing
>> pair of 622X48 (will be at least 50 on my rims) Oracle Ridges for $100
>> shipped, and Fat Tire Cycles will set them up tubeless on the new Velocity
>> Blunt SS wheelset for a dirt-biased wheelset for the dirt road Matthews.
>> The Soma Supple Vitesse SLs will remain on the original wheelset, for
>> pavement-biased riding but capable of shallower sand. But if Oracle Ridges
>> roll as well as RH claims for their knobbies, I may not have needed a
>> second wheelset ...
>>
>> Since my Kelpie fenders (a) were sized and sited for 60s, and so have at
>> least an inch of clearance over 50s, and (b) are, sheet metal and stays, at
>> least 50% thicker than your puny Honjos and Berthouds and VOs, I am going
>> to risk Oracles and fenders.
>>
>> Patrick Moore, who sped home from church just now on the very fast and
>> lively Nachess Pass EL wheelset on the other Matthews.
>>
>> On Fri, Mar 22, 2024 at 6:32 PM Jason Fuller 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> ... I am going to sow the seed now that the gravel & travel platy should
>>> run RH knobbies if no fenders - they are remarkably quick on pavement and a
>>> lifesaver on gravel and dirt. I run them on my Wombat which I ride on some
>>> challenging terrain and I've never felt the tires were a limiting factor
>>> yet!
>>>
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>>
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Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
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*But wouldst gabble like a** thing most brutish,*

*I endowed thy purposes w**ith words that made them known.*

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Re: [RBW] Re: I have questions

2024-03-22 Thread Patrick Moore
Jason: Which RH knobbies, pray? I just scored a near-new, Normal Casing
pair of 622X48 (will be at least 50 on my rims) Oracle Ridges for $100
shipped, and Fat Tire Cycles will set them up tubeless on the new Velocity
Blunt SS wheelset for a dirt-biased wheelset for the dirt road Matthews.
The Soma Supple Vitesse SLs will remain on the original wheelset, for
pavement-biased riding but capable of shallower sand. But if Oracle Ridges
roll as well as RH claims for their knobbies, I may not have needed a
second wheelset ...

Since my Kelpie fenders (a) were sized and sited for 60s, and so have at
least an inch of clearance over 50s, and (b) are, sheet metal and stays, at
least 50% thicker than your puny Honjos and Berthouds and VOs, I am going
to risk Oracles and fenders.

Patrick Moore, who sped home from church just now on the very fast and
lively Nachess Pass EL wheelset on the other Matthews.

On Fri, Mar 22, 2024 at 6:32 PM Jason Fuller  wrote:

> ... I am going to sow the seed now that the gravel & travel platy should
> run RH knobbies if no fenders - they are remarkably quick on pavement and a
> lifesaver on gravel and dirt. I run them on my Wombat which I ride on some
> challenging terrain and I've never felt the tires were a limiting factor
> yet!
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: I have questions

2024-03-22 Thread Patrick Moore
I have both dynamo lights and good battery lights and each have their
advantages. But IME, with quite a few hub, bottle, and bb dynamos, good hub
dynamos -- mid-level Shimano upward -- don't cause noticeable drag; at
least, I don't notice it, and one of my systems is a hi-po K-Lite system
which I always run on High. Bb dynamos are a wee bit noticeable but not
horrible; and even cheap Sanyo bottles aren't *that* bad -- like riding
into a modest headwind or up a very slight grade. They're *not* like Bart
Simpson's dynamo.

And wires can be neatly tucked away; not really a problem if arranged
properly.

I do always back up my dynamos with a good battery headlight, if only to
use as a flashlight in the event of roadside repairs. (Tho' the capacitor
of the Edeluxe I is pretty poor -- about 30 seconds bright, then another
minute of dim light -- another reason for a good auxiliary battery lamp,
for long intersections. The capacitor on the K-Lite -- in a separate box
the size of a box of Marlboros -- will still be glowing dimly 150 minutes
after you get home.)

Patrick Moore, who just rode home from church [first week in Lent] noticing
no drag a-tall from his SON 20R and first-gen Edeluxe with 2 wired-in tail
lights.

On Fri, Mar 22, 2024 at 6:13 PM Johnny Alien 
wrote:

> I actually forgot all about that. I had read a large and very nerdy
> article on this recently. The reason why this hasn't taken off is because
> its not really practical or efficient to charge a phone with the dynamo.
> Most phones have software that throttle low level charges like what you
> would get from a dynamo. I have been becoming a big fan of battery lights
> as well. They have so many lighting options and stay charged for a really
> long time. And battery packs are really easy to keep with you if you go
> longer. Easier than all of the wires and drag that a dynamo brings. BUT
> there is something to be said to always 100% having a light read to go if
> you need it.

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[RBW] ISO/WTB/WTT: Tange (or other) good quality 127 mm square taper bb with ~2 mm right offset.

2024-03-21 Thread Patrick Moore
The headline says it: does anyone have anything like this, Tange or
otherwise?

This sort of bb is the most efficient for my Matthews Road Bike For Dirt,
giving good chainline with no excess crankarm clearance.

I have a 130 mm Phil with ~200 mile bearings and a NIP 125 mm Suntour
Greaseguard bb to negotiate with in trade.

Thanks, Patrick

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Re: [RBW] How do I know when a saddle fits?

2024-03-20 Thread Patrick Moore
I'm sorry to hear that, but I am confident that you can find a solution.
IME, saddle comfort depends as much on saddle setup -- height, setback,
tilt -- and on body position when your ride -- thus bar shape and position
-- as it does on saddle shape.

My own test is, "did I think about the saddle during my ride?" If I don't
think about it on a ride of typical length, then I judge the saddle a
success. Of course, what "disappears" for 20 or 30 miles may come back with
a vengeance after 50 or 100 miles, so one has to take into account all of
one's riding.

Perhaps you might consider getting a professional bike fit? Really, if I
were in your situation, I'd consider this money well spent.

Good luck, and let us know what happens.

Patrick "Original Flites and only original Flites" Moore

On Wed, Mar 20, 2024 at 2:00 PM Emily Guise  wrote:

> Hello folks, I come to the group with a dilemma. I've never had a saddle
> that I could ride for longer than 20 miles comfortably. I've always ended
> up with sore sit bones, numb soft tissue, or both. This has really limited
> my ability to go on longer trips and after my five day ride on the C
> canal trail last Sept, it was more apparent than ever I need to find a
> saddle that won't hurt.
>
> I've tried dozens of saddles over the last 15 years- leather, plastic,
> cutouts, no cutouts, wide, medium, softer, harder, you name it. :( Most of
> the saddles that have stayed on my bikes for longer than a month have a
> central cut out, are on the wider side, and plastic. They're good for
> around town, but that's it. I've never had my sit bones measured.
>
> It occurred to me recently that because I've never had a truly comfortable
> long-distance saddle, I have no idea how one feels. So I figured I'd ask
> the group. How did The One saddle feel for you? Did it "disappear"? Was it
> love at first sit? Did it need to be adjusted a lot before finding the
> ideal position? Is there a certain amount of miles you ride before it
> becomes uncomfortable?
>
> I'd love to hear the group's collective wisdom so I know what to look for
> in the next saddle I try out. Thanks!
>
>
> --
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> .
>


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Re: [RBW] I have questions

2024-03-20 Thread Patrick Moore
To take into account George's experience: I do use widish rims for the
48s/50s: 27 mm IW Velocity Blunt SS's. But at 20 the Soma SV SLs handle
wonderfully on pavement. I agree that as the tires get fatter and the
pressures lower, small pressure differences make a big difference in
handling.

On Wed, Mar 20, 2024 at 5:03 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:

> Agree, tho' IME a 48 mm tire will require considerably less pressure than
> a 42. I'm 170-175 and put ~35 psi in 42s but only 20 in 48s (that measure
> 50 on my rims); this for pavement riding, very supple tires. A lighter
> rider can use less.
>
> Jan has shown (and my Big Ones also show) that width does not necessarily
> affect rolling resistance. What width does do, IME, is reduce the
> "nimbleness" of handling.
>
> On Wed, Mar 20, 2024 at 1:15 PM Jason Fuller  wrote:
>
>> The actual speed difference between a similar quality 48mm and a 42mm
>> will be extremely small - I wouldn't sweat it at all! Probably like 0.1 mph
>> difference. Most of the perceived difference is all in our heads, based on
>> the squish-factor and the buzz they make on pavement, neither of which
>> necessarily relate to speed. I would simply air them up to the same
>> pressure you run on your 42mm tires for the speedy rides. The Gravel King
>> is a reasonably quick tire, no concerns there to me.
>>
>
>

-- 

Patrick Moore
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Re: [RBW] I have questions

2024-03-20 Thread Patrick Moore
Agree, tho' IME a 48 mm tire will require considerably less pressure than a
42. I'm 170-175 and put ~35 psi in 42s but only 20 in 48s (that measure 50
on my rims); this for pavement riding, very supple tires. A lighter rider
can use less.

Jan has shown (and my Big Ones also show) that width does not necessarily
affect rolling resistance. What width does do, IME, is reduce the
"nimbleness" of handling.

On Wed, Mar 20, 2024 at 1:15 PM Jason Fuller  wrote:

> The actual speed difference between a similar quality 48mm and a 42mm will
> be extremely small - I wouldn't sweat it at all! Probably like 0.1 mph
> difference. Most of the perceived difference is all in our heads, based on
> the squish-factor and the buzz they make on pavement, neither of which
> necessarily relate to speed. I would simply air them up to the same
> pressure you run on your 42mm tires for the speedy rides. The Gravel King
> is a reasonably quick tire, no concerns there to me.
>

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Re: [RBW] I have questions

2024-03-20 Thread Patrick Moore
The 60 mm Schwalbe Big Ones that used to be on my dirt road Matthews were
among the very fastest-rolling tires I've used, including various "racing"
tires and 2 extralight RH models. I'd say that the right 48 mm tire will
roll plenty fast.

I've not used any Gravel Kings.

Patrick "it's not my tires that make me slow" Moore

On Tue, Mar 19, 2024 at 7:10 PM Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! <
jonasandle...@gmail.com> wrote:

> ... Can 48 mm tires do a 15-17 mph road ride pace? I have 42 on all my
> other bikes. Would 48s be slow? The ride is a 2 day event, 100 miles total.
> I’d like to keep the tires if I could, because they’re new and they are fat
> enough to also double as gravel tires, should I decide to do a gravel ride
> again. But I do more road rides than anything else, and if those 48s will
> cripple me, I’ll go back to 42s. What’s the consensus?
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Rapid rise derailleur suggestion

2024-03-19 Thread Patrick Moore
ch way the cage is oriented,
> with no additional takeup. Berto's belief is/was that Simplex had made a
> nice livelihood for themselves making single-pulley derailleurs, and didn't
> want to alienate their racing customers by making derailleurs that worked
> wildly differently. So they made single-pulley derailleurs with two pulleys.
>
> Unfortunately for the hobbyist, Berto's contempt for the design means that
> he doesn't speak at all about making them work. 60+ years after they
> vanished from the marketplace, it's almost impossible to find any
> documentation on configuration, other than the original instructions
> included in the packages written in midcentury flowery French or English
> that's hard for most people (well, for me at least) to translate to
> instructions I can use. Most of the technicians who learned how to do it
> the official way BITD are now dead. Those of us who get them sorta-working
> mostly do so through dumb luck; my addition of a couple of extra links
> beyond the Shimano big-big +1 parallelogram measurement suddenly gained me
> the ability to reach 7 out of 10 gears, where I had only been able to do a
> single speed beforehand. A datapoint for the the tricks file.
>
> Peter "wall of text!" Adler
> Berkeley, California/USA
>
> On Tuesday, March 19, 2024 at 8:25:00 AM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> BTW, Grant is wrong in the March 2022 blog about the second lever for the
> Simplex pullchain rd. It is indeed meant to take up or relax chain tension,
> but not because the derailleur didn't do that. The Simplex, like the
> Benelux, has a coil spring under that spiral ribbon spring -- both springs
> encircle a shaft over which the derailleur cage is pulled -- and the coil
> spring provides both in and out tension and cage tension (to put tension on
> the chain): you have to wind up the cage clockwise by not quite 360* when
> installing the chain, which is a real pain.
>
> The chain tension lever allowed you to fine tune this chain tension; in
> fact, to minimize it while still keeping enough so that the chain stayed on
> the chosen cog; this because, back then, at least some people thought that
> a tensioned chain caused a great deal of friction in the drivetrain.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Rapid rise derailleur suggestion

2024-03-19 Thread Patrick Moore
Interesting information about derailleur design history. But I read the
"normal" in "low-normal" or "high-normal" as simply "relaxed spring" and
not as "the way it ought to work."

My 2010 (purchased IIRC in 2011 or so) Sam Hill came with a "low-normal" LX
rd, and it was one of the best shifting rds I've used (first-gen Silver bar
end shifters) -- but that was simply because it was a mature-design
Shimano. I fully expect that I'd have gotten used to the reversed spring
action, but I didn't feel like doing so and sold it, and replaced it with
an equally good-shifting Micoshift road rd. (All modern rds are among the
best-shifting rds I've ever used.)

I did somehow manage to find a NOS "low-normal" Cyclo Benelux rd on a bike
shop in Nairobi in 1970 and used it on a makeshift 2-speed SA AW block
(after shimming out the cage to accommodate a 1/8" chain). That too worked
fine, over 2 cogs but then I had removed the outer chainring (50 t IIRC;
that left the 40 t inner) and front shifter so I had only 1 derailleur
movement to keep track of.

Frank Berto's early 2000's book, "The Dancing Chain" was a wonderful,
thorough but very readable historical overview of derailleur systems from
the turn of the 19th century up to at least the 8 speed era.

Patrick Moore, who likes the term "shifting pope."

On Tue, Mar 19, 2024 at 4:32 AM Peter Adler  wrote:

> To be nitpicky, "high normal"/"low normal" is terminology that's
> meaningful primarily for parallelogram derailleurs. We operate as if those
> are the only derailleurs that exist because parallelogram derailleurs
> (mostly developed as extrapolations and knockoffs of Campagnolo's 1951 Gran
> Sport, with important upper pivot developments by Simplex and then
> extensive advancement by Shimano and Suntour) have essentially eliminated
> the phantasmigorical range of derailleur designs that existed before 1960.
>
> Consider the Cyclo, a 1930s design employed widely by French framebuilders
> for both touring and townie bikes. The derailleur mounts under the
> driveside chainstay, and has no spring action at all - a single looping
> cable caused a helical shaft to pull the derailleur's pulley cage in one
> direction or the other, and the cage goes however far you pull it. In the
> case of the Cyclo, or other derailleurs in the category Jan Heine refers to
> as "desmodromic" such as the Nivex Rene Herse is duplicating at (I'm sure)
> great expense, there is no "normal"; there is no position to which the
> derailleur cage returns when cable tension is released because cable
> tension is equal throughout the derailleur's range. There is no spring to
> return the cage to a point of stasis.
>
> https://www.disraeligears.co.uk/site/french_patent_582247_-_cyclo.html
>
> Our understanding that a "normal" derailleur state is conditioned by the
> derailleurs which which we each have personal experience is easy to forget.
> A couple years ago, Grant published a blahg item commenting on a 1950s
> French racer brought in by our mutual acquaintance Ted Trambley of
> Martinez, whom I know from CR primarily as a hobbyist restorer like myself.
> He had brought in an early 1950s Alcyon (a marque which won a fair number
> of Tours de France in the 1920s-30s) equipped with a Huret suicide front
> derailleur (a mutual interest of Grant's and mine; I got Grant's
> reassembled after an attempted cloner had sent it back from Australia in
> pieces) and a Huret Louison Bobet rear derailleur. That rear derailleur
> fits into a category I call "pullchain", because I haven't seen another
> generic name for the type; the shift cable pulls a chain which goes through
> the derailleur body to the pulley cage, and increasing tension on the
> shifter+cable+chain draws the pulley cage outwards towards the body of the
> derailleur projecting outward from the frame, with counteracting pressure
> from a sort of flat clock-type spring.
>
> https://www.rivbike.com/blogs/grant-petersens-blog/late-march-3
>
> Grant's post gets excited about the fact that this means that relaxing
> cable tension means the pulley cage goes inwards towards the large cog -
> i.e., a "low normal"/"rapid-rise" derailleur. What he doesn't comment on is
> the fact that in the 40s-50s there were dozens of derailleur models from
> multiple companies in multiple countries (including Japan; the first
> Shimano and Suntour derailleurs were knockoffs of Simplex pullchain
> derailleurs) that did exactly the same thing, because that's just how the
> design works. Pullchain rears were the most common format of racing
> derailleur in the era, until enough teams bought Campagnolo's parallelogram
> derailleurs to displace t

Re: [RBW] Ride Reports - Where You Defied the Weather

2024-03-17 Thread Patrick Moore
h the snow at its strongest point.  I pulled up my neck
> gaiter to cover my cheeks from the sharp pellets.  I rang my bell a few
> times and laughed out loud; a very clear moment I'll recall for some time.
>
> At the halfway point I turned right into town and caught some tailwind,
> and a bit of sun.  I filled my water bottle and bought a Snickers at a gas
> station.  Still snowing but not as bad.  The wind also died down a bit; of
> course, I'm now riding home, down hill and down wind.  Last 20km home were
> on soaked roads, riding through puddles at times, but as it was still
> early, very little traffic and the sun ahead of me, peaking through the
> clouds here and there.
>
> When I got home the chain was dripping in black gunk.  A quick wipe with a
> shop rag and I brought the Fargo down to the basement for cleaning.  I've
> never had a bike so easy to clean: huge clearances mean wiping down the
> frame is a breeze.  One chain ring is easier to clean than two.   I look
> over to Leo, happy again that she stayed home.
>
> I'm thankful I have the Fargo as it's not just my trail bike (I don't
> like/own flat bar mountain bikes, so this bike's main role is no
> non-technical trails in town), but is also my all-weather bike (to a
> certain point, but studded tires and fenders may be installed next
> winter).  If I didn't have the Fargo I probably would have still went for
> the ride on Leo, but when the weather turned I would have been thinking too
> much (rim brakes, cornering on slick-ish tires, and the clean up
> afterwards, of this beautiful bike), and may have turned around early.  I'm
> fortunate to own a few bikes.
>
> That's it!  I realize this was far from epic, but I got a lot out of the
> ride (mentally) and wanted to share.  I look forward to reading your tales,
> epic or otherwise ;-)
>
>
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[RBW] SOLD [Brooks "Brick Lane" panniers, VG, black, $115 + shipping]

2024-03-16 Thread Patrick Moore
On Thu, Mar 14, 2024 at 2:47 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:

> 30 liters capacity, black, heavy, very sturdy cotton canvas, lined, very
> little used, only signs of use some dust and the 1/4-height coroplast
> stiffeners I riveted in. They hold a surprising amount for their nominal
> size.
>
> The panniers are joined and drape over the rack to which they attach via
> leather straps on the underside of the joining fabric. Leather straps close
> the flaps and there are interior compartment straps to help hold loads
> together.
>
> These work better with some racks instead of others. With my somewhat
> minimalist rack, the trailing bottom edges would brush the spokes when the
> bags were heavily loaded so I riveted in 1/4-height coroplast stiffeners. 
> *Note
> that the stiffeners prevent the bags from being rolled up; see photo.* That
> didn't bother me but you should be aware of this.
>
> My loss is your gain. I traded a nice Rivendell Sackville Medium saddlebag
> for these, and they're very nice, but with my rack the heels of my size 10s
> occasionally flick the forward edges as I pedal when the bags are loaded.
>
> $115 plus actual shipping cost, *net to me, please.*
>
> Please reply offlist.
>
> Thanks, Patrick Moore
>
>
>
> --
>
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
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>
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>
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>
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>


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