[RBW] WTB Basket/ShopSack

2014-01-02 Thread Pondero
As a fan of multiple rack/bag options for all (at least most) of my load 
carrying scenarios, I find myself lacking.  Inspired by several recent 
photos like *Evan's front end 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pedalpusher61/11528055694/in/pool-rivendell, 
*I'd like to try the medium basket/medium ShopSack combo.  I've got the 
rack, but need the basket and bag.  Any chance someone here is seeking to 
clear one or both of these items out of their clutter?

Chris Johnson
Sanger, Texas

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[RBW] Re: Cable End Soldering

2014-01-02 Thread Anton Tutter


I have been soldering electrical connections for most of my life but I've 
not once been able to solder modern SS cables, which is all I use on my 
bikes. So instead of solder, I use narrow (1/8) shrink tubing.  It doesn't 
look as bulky as a typical crimp end. The key to good shrink tube 
application is to use a heat gun, not a flame, as the heat source.

Anton Tutter

Somerville, MA and Bloomville, NY

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7300/9401390914_a2ae10e4f0_c.jpg

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[RBW] Re: Bleriot build kit for sale

2014-01-02 Thread Steven Frederick
No bites on this as a complete kit, so let me know if you're interested in
just part of it.  Offers welcome or tell me what bits you'd like and I'll
suggest a price...

Wheels are gone, rack is gone, but NS rack pack, wire bead Fatty Rumkin
tires (with tubes!) and all other parts are still available.

Thanks, Steve


On Fri, Dec 27, 2013 at 9:35 AM, Steven Frederick stl...@gmail.com wrote:

 I sold Anne's Bleriot frameset so I have all the parts from it available.
 These parts are nearly new and I'd like to sell the as a kit if possible to
 keep the shipping and transaction simple:

 Sugino XD Crankset, (170mm arms, 26/36/48 rings, some shoe rub on ND arm)
 Shimano bottom bracket and SRAM chain, 8-speed barend shifters, 105 triple
 derailers, the higher end (black plastic not grey) Shimano brake levers and
 Tektro long reach calipers, 11-28 Shimano Hyperglide 8 speed cassette (not
 pictured) and Shimano cables and housing cut to fit a 53cm Bleriot.
 (chain's cut to fit that bike, too)

 $400 shipped.

 The moustache bars are old and beat up, and the ends have been trimmed for
 knee clearance, the seatpost is nothing special-an old Trek System model.
 The stem is nice, though, a very short extension (50 or 60mm?) Nitto
 Technomic, I bought new for this build so it's been installed but never
 ridden.  I'd include the stem for another $40.  And the post and bars for
 another $30.  The saddle is a Cloud9 lady's model with considerable
 padding, a cut-out, and pink breast cancer trim and graphics-it's like new
 and I'd include it for another $30.

 Planning to keep the MKS pedals, but that's negotiable, too.

 The 650b wheels and tires are available, too--contact me for details if
 interested...

 Thanks,

 Steve Frederick, East Lansing, MI


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Re: [RBW] How cold was your first day ride?

2014-01-02 Thread Steve Palincsar

On 01/01/2014 10:16 PM, rob markwardt wrote:
Today was 45 degrees in Seattle (isn't it always?)   I crashed the 
Bleriot yesterday and since my crashes seem to come is twos, today I 
headed for a spot with softer landing...75 minutes on the trails of 
Woodland Park on my now 30 year old Ross Mountain bike (made it 
without incident).  Slippery corner taken too fast took me down..funny 
but I could see it coming (unfortunately too late to do anything). My 
16 year old Seiko got the worst of it but I have similar looking 
scrapes in my skin on all left side contact points (ankle, knee, hip, 
knuckle,and shoulder).  The last thing to hit the ground (my melon) 
came out fine due to my helmet.  (promise...first, last, only helmet 
post of the year).  I don't think I would have died or anything but 
I'm pretty confident I'd have been feeling quite a bit different these 
last two day.  Here's to a safe 2014.


You crashed yesterday, then set out today to crash again and succeeded?  
Ouch X 2!  I hope that satisfies your quota for the year.


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[RBW] Tire Width and Performance

2014-01-02 Thread Jan Heine
Even though most RBW folks may not care all that much about going fast, 
it's still nice to know that a wider tire doesn't roll any slower. We 
summarized the data in our blog here:

http://janheine.wordpress.com/2014/01/01/tires-how-wide-is-too-wide/

If anything, it may help persuade those we meet on our rides, who look at 
our bikes and are intrigued by the idea of a more comfortable bike with 
wider tires, but are afraid they won't be able to keep up with their 
friends if they add 5 or 10 mm to their tire width.

Happy New Year!

Jan Heine
Editor
Bicycle Quarterly
www.bikequarterly.com

Follow our blog at www.janheine.wordpress.com

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Re: [RBW] Tire Width and Performance

2014-01-02 Thread Steve Palincsar

On 01/02/2014 09:21 AM, Jan Heine wrote:


If anything, it may help persuade those we meet on our rides, who look 
at our bikes and are intrigued by the idea of a more comfortable bike 
with wider tires, but are afraid they won't be able to keep up with 
their friends if they add 5 or 10 mm to their tire width.


Or even 2mm (going from 23mm to 25).

And then there are the ones who say of someone's 25 lb bike that riding 
it must be quite a workout -- even when the ride in question has less 
than 2000' of climbing for 50 miles, with no climbs greater than 10% 
grade and 120' elevation change.



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Re: [RBW] Tire Width and Performance

2014-01-02 Thread Tim McNamara
So far no one I have ridden with has been intrigued about wider tires.  Maybe I 
need to find people with more curiosity!  :-)

Your blog mentions the shorter contact patch of wider tires.  A decade or so 
ago, one of the participants on rec.bicycles.tech made images of the contact 
patches of various width tires.  What was striking was that he showed little 
difference in the shape or size of the contact patch, although perhaps his 
range of tire sizes was too small.  It would be interesting to repeat this with 
good scientific rigor.

Many wider tires, of course, do roll slower compared to skinny tires.  Tire 
manufacturers tend to put thicker rubber on wider tires for some reason, 
perhaps marketing assumptions about the buyers of wider tires, which increases 
hysteresis; casings for wider tires tend to be made with heavier thread for 
reasons due to physics, which may increase hysteresis; and of course wider 
tires with heavier casings and thicker tread will weigh more and may affect the 
responsiveness of the bike to rider input.  High quality performance oriented 
wide tires, such as the ones Jan promotes, are a much different product.  Even 
my wide-ish mid-level 26 x 1.25 Paselas roll very well compared to my 700 x 25s.

P.S.-  my wife gave me the Rene Herse book for Christmas.  I am 100 pages in 
and enjoying it very much, although perhaps the title should have been Rene 
Herse and most of the history of French cyclotourisme.  I have always enjoyed 
the historical articles in BQ and this book has that in spades.  It is big 
enough that reading it in bed is self-limiting!

Tim

 On Jan 2, 2014, at 8:21 AM, Jan Heine hein...@earthlink.net wrote:
 
 Even though most RBW folks may not care all that much about going fast, it's 
 still nice to know that a wider tire doesn't roll any slower. We summarized 
 the data in our blog here:
 
 http://janheine.wordpress.com/2014/01/01/tires-how-wide-is-too-wide/
 
 If anything, it may help persuade those we meet on our rides, who look at our 
 bikes and are intrigued by the idea of a more comfortable bike with wider 
 tires, but are afraid they won't be able to keep up with their friends if 
 they add 5 or 10 mm to their tire width.
 
 Happy New Year!
 
 Jan Heine
 Editor
 Bicycle Quarterly
 www.bikequarterly.com
 
 Follow our blog at www.janheine.wordpress.com
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Re: [RBW] Tire Width and Performance

2014-01-02 Thread Jim Bronson
Where does tire weight factor in to all this?  I personally find lighter
tires to be faster for the most part, whether they're 23mm or 38mm (the
widths I am running on my Paul Taylor and Rivendell respectively).


On Thu, Jan 2, 2014 at 8:21 AM, Jan Heine hein...@earthlink.net wrote:

 Even though most RBW folks may not care all that much about going fast,
 it's still nice to know that a wider tire doesn't roll any slower. We
 summarized the data in our blog here:

 http://janheine.wordpress.com/2014/01/01/tires-how-wide-is-too-wide/

 If anything, it may help persuade those we meet on our rides, who look at
 our bikes and are intrigued by the idea of a more comfortable bike with
 wider tires, but are afraid they won't be able to keep up with their
 friends if they add 5 or 10 mm to their tire width.

 Happy New Year!

 Jan Heine
 Editor
 Bicycle Quarterly
 www.bikequarterly.com

 Follow our blog at www.janheine.wordpress.com

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Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down!

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[RBW] Re: How cold was your first day ride?

2014-01-02 Thread Marc Irwin
Kalamazoo 16F with a -4F windchill.  Also rode the Hunq, 

Marc

On Wednesday, January 1, 2014 11:38:33 AM UTC-5, Bill Fulford wrote:

 Kennebunk Maine, 19 degrees, felt like 4. Baby it's cold out there. Rode 
 the Hunqapillar and enjoyed the ride.

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Re: [RBW] Re: 1 bike? Could you do it?

2014-01-02 Thread Jim Bronson
I could cut down to one bike if it wasn't for bike thieves.  I'm not about
to lock up my Rivendell in front of the grocery store, or to the bike rack
at work.  For that I have my beater bike, an early 80s Nishiki.


On Tue, Dec 31, 2013 at 4:13 PM, justinaug...@gmail.com wrote:

 Nice time to revive this thread!
 Who cut down to one bike this year?

 I'm moving (back) to Oakland this summer and am in the process of deciding
 whether or not to go down to 1 bike or 2 (at 3). Pay aspirational
 minimalist really wants to do this. My sentimental attachments tell me no.

 Who did it? Who didn't? How did it work or why didn't it?

 -J

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Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down!

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Re: [RBW] Tire Width and Performance

2014-01-02 Thread James Warren

The one time my TaiwanColnago-riding friend was intrigued by wider tires, he 
got some new 700x25's right before our ride, and 1 minute after putting them 
on, he found that they cleared the seatstay bridge by about 0.2 mm! But he 
otherwise likes his bike and likes to be fast and connects the fastness to the 
bike frame and components, and so much for caring about wider tires.


On Jan 2, 2014, at 6:56 AM, Tim McNamara wrote:

 So far no one I have ridden with has been intrigued about wider tires.  Maybe 
 I need to find people with more curiosity!  :-)
 
 Your blog mentions the shorter contact patch of wider tires.  A decade or so 
 ago, one of the participants on rec.bicycles.tech made images of the contact 
 patches of various width tires.  What was striking was that he showed little 
 difference in the shape or size of the contact patch, although perhaps his 
 range of tire sizes was too small.  It would be interesting to repeat this 
 with good scientific rigor.
 
 Many wider tires, of course, do roll slower compared to skinny tires.  Tire 
 manufacturers tend to put thicker rubber on wider tires for some reason, 
 perhaps marketing assumptions about the buyers of wider tires, which 
 increases hysteresis; casings for wider tires tend to be made with heavier 
 thread for reasons due to physics, which may increase hysteresis; and of 
 course wider tires with heavier casings and thicker tread will weigh more and 
 may affect the responsiveness of the bike to rider input.  High quality 
 performance oriented wide tires, such as the ones Jan promotes, are a much 
 different product.  Even my wide-ish mid-level 26 x 1.25 Paselas roll very 
 well compared to my 700 x 25s.
 
 P.S.-  my wife gave me the Rene Herse book for Christmas.  I am 100 pages in 
 and enjoying it very much, although perhaps the title should have been Rene 
 Herse and most of the history of French cyclotourisme.  I have always 
 enjoyed the historical articles in BQ and this book has that in spades.  It 
 is big enough that reading it in bed is self-limiting!
 
 Tim
 
 On Jan 2, 2014, at 8:21 AM, Jan Heine hein...@earthlink.net wrote:
 
 Even though most RBW folks may not care all that much about going fast, it's 
 still nice to know that a wider tire doesn't roll any slower. We summarized 
 the data in our blog here:
 
 http://janheine.wordpress.com/2014/01/01/tires-how-wide-is-too-wide/
 
 If anything, it may help persuade those we meet on our rides, who look at 
 our bikes and are intrigued by the idea of a more comfortable bike with 
 wider tires, but are afraid they won't be able to keep up with their friends 
 if they add 5 or 10 mm to their tire width.
 
 Happy New Year!
 
 Jan Heine
 Editor
 Bicycle Quarterly
 www.bikequarterly.com
 
 Follow our blog at www.janheine.wordpress.com
 
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James Warren
jimcwar...@earthlink.net

- 700x55





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Re: [RBW] Tire Width and Performance

2014-01-02 Thread Ron Mc
Jim has done a very good job here by comparing different widths in 
essentially the same high-quality tire - there is no significant weight 
difference here.  
Throwing out a data point, my buddy's Tournado on Dahon-specific 35mm 
Schalwalbe's rolls every bit as efficiently as my Moser on 27-rear/ 
25-front Challenge tubies (both bikes on American Classic hubs).  
A good soft tire with high tpi casing will have a spherical contact patch, 
while a skinny hard high pressure tire will have an oval contact patch of 
essentially the same area, so there is little difference in that effect on 
rolling resistance.  There is a good argument that a heavier tire with low 
rolling resistance will go just as fast a lighter tire - while that's true, 
the lighter tire/wheel has less inertia, so it accelerates easier and 
brakes much better - these things you can feel.  

On Thursday, January 2, 2014 9:12:10 AM UTC-6, Jim Bronson wrote:

 Where does tire weight factor in to all this?  I personally find lighter 
 tires to be faster for the most part, whether they're 23mm or 38mm (the 
 widths I am running on my Paul Taylor and Rivendell respectively).


 On Thu, Jan 2, 2014 at 8:21 AM, Jan Heine hei...@earthlink.netjavascript:
  wrote:

 Even though most RBW folks may not care all that much about going fast, 
 it's still nice to know that a wider tire doesn't roll any slower. We 
 summarized the data in our blog here:

 http://janheine.wordpress.com/2014/01/01/tires-how-wide-is-too-wide/

 If anything, it may help persuade those we meet on our rides, who look at 
 our bikes and are intrigued by the idea of a more comfortable bike with 
 wider tires, but are afraid they won't be able to keep up with their 
 friends if they add 5 or 10 mm to their tire width.

 Happy New Year!

 Jan Heine
 Editor
 Bicycle Quarterly
 www.bikequarterly.com

 Follow our blog at www.janheine.wordpress.com
  
 -- 
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 Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down! 


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Re: [RBW] WTB Basket/ShopSack

2014-01-02 Thread Tim Gavin
The medium Wald basket is cheap and ubiquitous; your LBS probably sells
them with the handlebar/axle mounts attached.  Remove that excess hardware
zip tie it to your front rack.

I use generic canvas or nylon shopping bags, held down with a bungee net.
 Not as sexy as the ShopSack, but they do the job fine.

Just some suggestions to get you started as a basket rider.  (I bought my
basket and bungee net from Riv, but realized afterwards that there are
other options).

Tim


On Thu, Jan 2, 2014 at 7:12 AM, Pondero cj.spin...@gmail.com wrote:

 As a fan of multiple rack/bag options for all (at least most) of my load
 carrying scenarios, I find myself lacking.  Inspired by several recent
 photos like *Evan's front end
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/pedalpusher61/11528055694/in/pool-rivendell,
 *I'd like to try the medium basket/medium ShopSack combo.  I've got the
 rack, but need the basket and bag.  Any chance someone here is seeking to
 clear one or both of these items out of their clutter?

 Chris Johnson
 Sanger, Texas

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Re: [RBW] Tire Width and Performance

2014-01-02 Thread Ron Mc
excuse me - Jan - I knew that

On Thursday, January 2, 2014 9:48:35 AM UTC-6, Ron Mc wrote:

 Jim has done a very good job here by comparing different widths in 
 essentially the same high-quality tire - there is no significant weight 
 difference here.  
 Throwing out a data point, my buddy's Tournado on Dahon-specific 35mm 
 Schalwalbe's rolls every bit as efficiently as my Moser on 27-rear/ 
 25-front Challenge tubies (both bikes on American Classic hubs).  
 A good soft tire with high tpi casing will have a spherical contact patch, 
 while a skinny hard high pressure tire will have an oval contact patch of 
 essentially the same area, so there is little difference in that effect on 
 rolling resistance.  There is a good argument that a heavier tire with low 
 rolling resistance will go just as fast a lighter tire - while that's true, 
 the lighter tire/wheel has less inertia, so it accelerates easier and 
 brakes much better - these things you can feel.  

 On Thursday, January 2, 2014 9:12:10 AM UTC-6, Jim Bronson wrote:

 Where does tire weight factor in to all this?  I personally find lighter 
 tires to be faster for the most part, whether they're 23mm or 38mm (the 
 widths I am running on my Paul Taylor and Rivendell respectively).


 On Thu, Jan 2, 2014 at 8:21 AM, Jan Heine hei...@earthlink.net wrote:

 Even though most RBW folks may not care all that much about going fast, 
 it's still nice to know that a wider tire doesn't roll any slower. We 
 summarized the data in our blog here:

 http://janheine.wordpress.com/2014/01/01/tires-how-wide-is-too-wide/

 If anything, it may help persuade those we meet on our rides, who look 
 at our bikes and are intrigued by the idea of a more comfortable bike with 
 wider tires, but are afraid they won't be able to keep up with their 
 friends if they add 5 or 10 mm to their tire width.

 Happy New Year!

 Jan Heine
 Editor
 Bicycle Quarterly
 www.bikequarterly.com

 Follow our blog at www.janheine.wordpress.com
  
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[RBW] FS: Swift Little Dear

2014-01-02 Thread johnb
I have a moderately used Swift Industries Little Dear that does not fit on 
my smallish Atlantis with a rear rack. I am asking $40 shipped to CONUS. 
Pictures are here 
- http://www.flickr.com/photos/jbusteed/sets/72157639314484483/

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[RBW] Fenders and chain stay clearance

2014-01-02 Thread Kevin
Thanks guys.  I was sort of against cutting too.  I do like the heat gun 
approach - I'll need to see if there's enough room between the tire.

I guess just the fact that the fender sides contact the stays doesn't mean it's 
wrong (or does it?).

I think the snuggness probably decreases fender vibrations on the whole.

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[RBW] Re: Tire Width and Performance

2014-01-02 Thread Garth

How about heavier tires , have you done a test with those ?   You know ... 
there's heavy , heavier and really really heavy tires !  Like those 2+ 
pounders !  lol  ;)  

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[RBW] Bike Travel - Share your thoughts

2014-01-02 Thread Kieran J
Hey Y'alls,
 
I'm starting to think about air travel with a bike, with the first possible 
destination of the Bay Area this upcoming summer (hoping to repatriate the 
Ram Dawg, at least for a visit).
 
Do any of you have experience with bike boxes or bike bags, on an airline? 
TSC/ATA cases, fabric bags, cardboard bike boxes even?
 
At first, I entertained the idea of installing SS couplers on the Ram (it 
needs new paint anyways) but together, the retrofit would cost large $$. So 
now I'm thinking about just flying with it, as is. The Ram is a 66cm, so 
finding a box that would accommodate its sprawl would be one of the chief 
concerns. 
 
Any good experiences? Things to avoid? Anything to report with 
various airlines' policies and costs, as well?
 
Thanks!
 
Kieran in Toronto

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Re: [RBW] Re: Happy New Year to All!

2014-01-02 Thread Montclair BobbyB
Jim, you the man, thank you!!!

BB

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[RBW] Re: Bike Travel - Share your thoughts

2014-01-02 Thread Kieran J
I guess the thread title should be more like Travel with a bike. Ha.
 
KJ
 

On Thursday, January 2, 2014 11:16:04 AM UTC-5, Kieran J wrote:

  Hey Y'alls,
  
 I'm starting to think about air travel with a bike, with the first 
 possible destination of the Bay Area this upcoming summer (hoping to 
 repatriate the Ram Dawg, at least for a visit).
  
 Do any of you have experience with bike boxes or bike bags, on an airline? 
 TSC/ATA cases, fabric bags, cardboard bike boxes even?
  
 At first, I entertained the idea of installing SS couplers on the Ram (it 
 needs new paint anyways) but together, the retrofit would cost large $$. So 
 now I'm thinking about just flying with it, as is. The Ram is a 66cm, so 
 finding a box that would accommodate its sprawl would be one of the chief 
 concerns. 
  
 Any good experiences? Things to avoid? Anything to report with 
 various airlines' policies and costs, as well?
  
 Thanks!
  
 Kieran in Toronto


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Re: [RBW] Tire Width and Performance

2014-01-02 Thread Tim McNamara
Well, that’s the thing I brought up in response to Jan, although as I have 
tried finding that information on the Internet I have come up blank.  Maybe I 
am remembering it incorrectly.  As I recalled it, a guy named Carl Fogel used 
sheets of paper on the floor and a stamp pad to create an image of the tires’ 
contact patch.  However, what I have turned up is discussion of different 
pressures in the same tire rather than different width tires; the image of the 
contact patches is no longer available:

http://www.cyclingforums.com/t/374655/contact-patch-size-versus-tire-inflation


There may be something relevant in the following, I have not had time to read 
the article closely; the variable seems to be rim width rather than tire width. 
 The differences in the graphics seem to be rather highly exaggerated in an 
effort to justify buying expensive rims:

http://flocycling.blogspot.com/2011/11/flo-cyling-contact-patch-why-wider-is.html


It’d be interesting to compare different width tires, possibly also at 
different pressures.


On Jan 2, 2014, at 9:48 AM, Ron Mc bulldog...@gmail.com wrote:

 A good soft tire with high tpi casing will have a spherical contact patch, 
 while a skinny hard high pressure tire will have an oval contact patch of 
 essentially the same area, so there is little difference in that effect on 
 rolling resistance.

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[RBW] Re: How cold was your first day ride?

2014-01-02 Thread Mark Reimer
-35C, -45C with windchill. One of the coldest days of the year in Winnipeg. 
Rode my Surly winter beater, a single speed steamroller. Summer can't come 
fast enough. 

On Wednesday, January 1, 2014 10:38:33 AM UTC-6, Bill Fulford wrote:

 Kennebunk Maine, 19 degrees, felt like 4. Baby it's cold out there. Rode 
 the Hunqapillar and enjoyed the ride.

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Re: [RBW] Bike Travel - Share your thoughts

2014-01-02 Thread Jim Bronson
The handlebars were a problem on the 68cm custom that I own, traveling to
France and using a hard shell plastic case that I borrowed. There was not
enough slack in the shifter and brake cables to remove the threaded stem
from the steerer tube.  But the bike seemingly would not fit in the box
with the handlebars and stem attached to the frame.  And the fact that
threaded quills only have one bolt for loosening and tightening didn't
help; this is one way that threadless is superior.

I finally finagled the handlebars in there somehow and used extra straps to
keep the thing shut.  Knowing what I know now, I would have just removed
the barend shifters and disconnected the brake cables.  But oh well, youth
and inexperience, back in 2007 ;)

On the way back to the US, I got a pair of pliers and cut the cables, that
made it a lot easier to get the thing in the box.  Obviously, I had to have
new cables installed before I could ride it again.  Another thing I didn't
know how to do in 2007...

If I knew I was going to ship my bike often, I would get the quick
disconnect cables that I have seen on some bikes.  I didn't need an SS to
make my huge frame and fork fit in a bike box and I don't suspect most
other people do, either.  If you're not going to be traveling with your
bike much, I think just paying the oversize baggage fee makes more sense.
 It was $110 each way in 2007, little bit of an ouchy but it's much less
than installing couplers.

I would probably only get SS couplers if I was building a custom tandem,
which in my case would be probably near impossible to get on an airplane.

Timely question.  I need to start thinking about how to get my bike to
France in 2015 again (hopefully, anyway).

-Jim


On Thu, Jan 2, 2014 at 10:16 AM, Kieran J kjo...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hey Y'alls,

 I'm starting to think about air travel with a bike, with the first
 possible destination of the Bay Area this upcoming summer (hoping to
 repatriate the Ram Dawg, at least for a visit).

 Do any of you have experience with bike boxes or bike bags, on an airline?
 TSC/ATA cases, fabric bags, cardboard bike boxes even?

 At first, I entertained the idea of installing SS couplers on the Ram (it
 needs new paint anyways) but together, the retrofit would cost large $$. So
 now I'm thinking about just flying with it, as is. The Ram is a 66cm, so
 finding a box that would accommodate its sprawl would be one of the chief
 concerns.

 Any good experiences? Things to avoid? Anything to report with
 various airlines' policies and costs, as well?

 Thanks!

 Kieran in Toronto

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[RBW] Re: Bike Travel - Share your thoughts

2014-01-02 Thread blakcloud
There is a guy on the Toronto CL that advertises renting out bike cases for 
traveling but have no idea if your bike would fit.  At least your bike will 
be protected. I have traveled with a fabric bag to carry my bike and though 
it survived the bag didn't. I would never do it again the stress is too 
much. I have also used a cardboard box for a tour once and had to discard 
the box as I rode right from the airport. Then there was the hassle of 
getting another box for traveling home. 

Cost wise, for example Air Canada charges $35 for your second bag and $100 
if it your third. Plus there is a charge of $50 for each portion of the 
journey because it is a bike. Then you have to be careful that Air Canada 
is actually the plane you are using and not another Star Alliance carrier 
because their charges can be different even thought you paid Air Canada for 
the ticket. So it is at least $85 each way if you have one other piece of 
luggage if you fly economy. First class different story. If you rent a case 
then add that on. Do that twice a year and you may rethink S and S 
couplers. 

My wife works for an airline, I essentially travel the world for next to 
nothing and I had visions of bringing a bike with me so I bought us both 
Bromptons. The Brompton rides like crap, might as well just rent a bike at 
my destination. If I was doing another cycling vacation and was only doing 
it once in a while I would go the bike case route and pay the charges. If I 
was taking my bike somewhere twice a year, I would seriously think S  S 
couplers. 

Only my opinion. Others will chime in because there are plenty of people 
who travel with their bikes and have no problems. The benefits greatly 
outweigh the hassles. 

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Re: [RBW] Bike Travel - Share your thoughts

2014-01-02 Thread Kieran J
Hey Jim, thanks for your thoughts. Could you not have just loosened the 
cables at the brakes and the derailleurs? Getting the handlebars off will 
definitely be necessary, I think.
 
Air Canada appears to charge $50 each way on flights, which is not too bad. 
The weight and dimensions limits are also reasonable, so it might be 
doable, as long as we fly with them.
Do you happen to know what box you used? Was it a plastic type hard case 
jobby?
KJ
 
 
On Thursday, January 2, 2014 11:50:22 AM UTC-5, Jim Bronson wrote:

 The handlebars were a problem on the 68cm custom that I own, traveling to 
 France and using a hard shell plastic case that I borrowed. There was not 
 enough slack in the shifter and brake cables to remove the threaded stem 
 from the steerer tube.  But the bike seemingly would not fit in the box 
 with the handlebars and stem attached to the frame.  And the fact that 
 threaded quills only have one bolt for loosening and tightening didn't 
 help; this is one way that threadless is superior.   

 I finally finagled the handlebars in there somehow and used extra straps 
 to keep the thing shut.  Knowing what I know now, I would have just removed 
 the barend shifters and disconnected the brake cables.  But oh well, youth 
 and inexperience, back in 2007 ;) 

 On the way back to the US, I got a pair of pliers and cut the cables, that 
 made it a lot easier to get the thing in the box.  Obviously, I had to have 
 new cables installed before I could ride it again.  Another thing I didn't 
 know how to do in 2007...

 If I knew I was going to ship my bike often, I would get the quick 
 disconnect cables that I have seen on some bikes.  I didn't need an SS to 
 make my huge frame and fork fit in a bike box and I don't suspect most 
 other people do, either.  If you're not going to be traveling with your 
 bike much, I think just paying the oversize baggage fee makes more sense. 
  It was $110 each way in 2007, little bit of an ouchy but it's much less 
 than installing couplers.

 I would probably only get SS couplers if I was building a custom tandem, 
 which in my case would be probably near impossible to get on an airplane.

 Timely question.  I need to start thinking about how to get my bike to 
 France in 2015 again (hopefully, anyway).

 -Jim


 On Thu, Jan 2, 2014 at 10:16 AM, Kieran J kjo...@gmail.com 
 javascript:wrote:

  Hey Y'alls,
  
 I'm starting to think about air travel with a bike, with the first 
 possible destination of the Bay Area this upcoming summer (hoping to 
 repatriate the Ram Dawg, at least for a visit).
  
 Do any of you have experience with bike boxes or bike bags, on an 
 airline? TSC/ATA cases, fabric bags, cardboard bike boxes even?
  
 At first, I entertained the idea of installing SS couplers on the Ram 
 (it needs new paint anyways) but together, the retrofit would cost large 
 $$. So now I'm thinking about just flying with it, as is. The Ram is a 
 66cm, so finding a box that would accommodate its sprawl would be one of 
 the chief concerns. 
  
 Any good experiences? Things to avoid? Anything to report with 
 various airlines' policies and costs, as well?
  
 Thanks!
  
 Kieran in Toronto

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[RBW] Carradice Barley mounting options for saddle without loops?

2014-01-02 Thread Jim Bronson
I looked at just installing some loops onto the saddle rails, Velo Orange
sells some for just this purpose.  However, the bottom attachment point
says to attach it to the seatpost.  That doesn't seem like it's going to
work very well.  I don't want any sort of interference with my legs while
pedaling, so getting it away from my backside is a bit of a priority.

I was considering this setup.  It is quite ugly, but seems like it would be
effective:
http://www.wiggle.com/carradice-bagman-2-sport-support-bag-mount-qr/

Rivendell sells the R-14 rear rack, which seems like it would work fine for
the purpose, and looks pretty, but it costs more than twice as much.
http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/r14.htm

Any thoughts?

I do have some regular old racks just lying around too. That might be a
cheaper fix.  Just have to dig through the boxes in the garage to find
one...

Jim

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[RBW] Re: Carradice Barley mounting options for saddle without loops?

2014-01-02 Thread Jim M.
I use one of these with my Barley:  http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/r13.htm

Works well, and is unobtrusive. I think I've seen a similar item from other 
manufacturers, but I can't recall where.

jim m
wc ca

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Re: [RBW] Bike Travel - Share your thoughts

2014-01-02 Thread dougP
$50 is a good price.  FedEx or UPS ground service within the US is higher.  
You mention weight  dimensions are reasonable.  Keep in mind that many 
hard plastic cases by themselves are in the 30 lb range.  There are several 
cardboard boxes that are coated with a plastic material that are quite 
rugged and under 20 lbs.  Crate Works is the brand that comes to mine but 
there are several out there.  

My Atlantis is 58 cm  a lot of stuff has to come off.  Cable splitters are 
a great convenience, and the bars most surely will have to come off.  Think 
about whether you'll need racks on your trip  leave big ones (rear pannier 
rack for instance) at home if not.  They take a lot of space.

Each airline seems to have its own size, weight,  policy restrictions, and 
they change often.  Check all the details before you buy your ticket, then 
print out the policy in effect on the day you bought your ticket.  This has 
come in handy at check-in.  

dougP  

On Thursday, January 2, 2014 8:59:55 AM UTC-8, Kieran J wrote:

 Hey Jim, thanks for your thoughts. Could you not have just loosened the 
 cables at the brakes and the derailleurs? Getting the handlebars off will 
 definitely be necessary, I think.
  
 Air Canada appears to charge $50 each way on flights, which is not too 
 bad. The weight and dimensions limits are also reasonable, so it might be 
 doable, as long as we fly with them.
 Do you happen to know what box you used? Was it a plastic type hard case 
 jobby?
 KJ
  
  
 On Thursday, January 2, 2014 11:50:22 AM UTC-5, Jim Bronson wrote:

 The handlebars were a problem on the 68cm custom that I own, traveling to 
 France and using a hard shell plastic case that I borrowed. There was not 
 enough slack in the shifter and brake cables to remove the threaded stem 
 from the steerer tube.  But the bike seemingly would not fit in the box 
 with the handlebars and stem attached to the frame.  And the fact that 
 threaded quills only have one bolt for loosening and tightening didn't 
 help; this is one way that threadless is superior.   

 I finally finagled the handlebars in there somehow and used extra straps 
 to keep the thing shut.  Knowing what I know now, I would have just removed 
 the barend shifters and disconnected the brake cables.  But oh well, youth 
 and inexperience, back in 2007 ;) 

 On the way back to the US, I got a pair of pliers and cut the cables, 
 that made it a lot easier to get the thing in the box.  Obviously, I had to 
 have new cables installed before I could ride it again.  Another thing I 
 didn't know how to do in 2007...

 If I knew I was going to ship my bike often, I would get the quick 
 disconnect cables that I have seen on some bikes.  I didn't need an SS to 
 make my huge frame and fork fit in a bike box and I don't suspect most 
 other people do, either.  If you're not going to be traveling with your 
 bike much, I think just paying the oversize baggage fee makes more sense. 
  It was $110 each way in 2007, little bit of an ouchy but it's much less 
 than installing couplers.

 I would probably only get SS couplers if I was building a custom tandem, 
 which in my case would be probably near impossible to get on an airplane.

 Timely question.  I need to start thinking about how to get my bike to 
 France in 2015 again (hopefully, anyway).

 -Jim


 On Thu, Jan 2, 2014 at 10:16 AM, Kieran J kjo...@gmail.com wrote:

  Hey Y'alls,
  
 I'm starting to think about air travel with a bike, with the first 
 possible destination of the Bay Area this upcoming summer (hoping to 
 repatriate the Ram Dawg, at least for a visit).
  
 Do any of you have experience with bike boxes or bike bags, on an 
 airline? TSC/ATA cases, fabric bags, cardboard bike boxes even?
  
 At first, I entertained the idea of installing SS couplers on the Ram 
 (it needs new paint anyways) but together, the retrofit would cost large 
 $$. So now I'm thinking about just flying with it, as is. The Ram is a 
 66cm, so finding a box that would accommodate its sprawl would be one of 
 the chief concerns. 
  
 Any good experiences? Things to avoid? Anything to report with 
 various airlines' policies and costs, as well?
  
 Thanks!
  
 Kieran in Toronto

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[RBW] Re: Bike Travel - Share your thoughts

2014-01-02 Thread Kieran J
Hey Blakcloud,
 
Yeah, I can see how the costs will add up quickly with a few trips abroad. 
How does an SS frame packed up differ from a regular bike, in terms of 
what you are charged? It's my understanding that Air Canada will charge you 
the $50 as long as it's a bike, no matter what. I guess with an SS bike, 
it's small enough that you could lie and say it's something else?
 
The only place I know of to install SS couplers in the Toronto area is 
True North, and he charges $750+350 for paint, so that's a lot. I guess a 
smaller package would be convenient, but if it doesn't reduce the per-trip 
fees, it would never pay for itself.
 
I've seen that bike box rental ad, might look more closely at it. The 
Serfas boxes that AC recommends are not exactly cheap.
 
KJ
 

On Thursday, January 2, 2014 11:57:18 AM UTC-5, blakcloud wrote:

 There is a guy on the Toronto CL that advertises renting out bike cases 
 for traveling but have no idea if your bike would fit.  At least your bike 
 will be protected. I have traveled with a fabric bag to carry my bike and 
 though it survived the bag didn't. I would never do it again the stress is 
 too much. I have also used a cardboard box for a tour once and had to 
 discard the box as I rode right from the airport. Then there was the hassle 
 of getting another box for traveling home. 

 Cost wise, for example Air Canada charges $35 for your second bag and $100 
 if it your third. Plus there is a charge of $50 for each portion of the 
 journey because it is a bike. Then you have to be careful that Air Canada 
 is actually the plane you are using and not another Star Alliance carrier 
 because their charges can be different even thought you paid Air Canada for 
 the ticket. So it is at least $85 each way if you have one other piece of 
 luggage if you fly economy. First class different story. If you rent a case 
 then add that on. Do that twice a year and you may rethink S and S 
 couplers. 

 My wife works for an airline, I essentially travel the world for next to 
 nothing and I had visions of bringing a bike with me so I bought us both 
 Bromptons. The Brompton rides like crap, might as well just rent a bike at 
 my destination. If I was doing another cycling vacation and was only doing 
 it once in a while I would go the bike case route and pay the charges. If I 
 was taking my bike somewhere twice a year, I would seriously think S  S 
 couplers. 

 Only my opinion. Others will chime in because there are plenty of people 
 who travel with their bikes and have no problems. The benefits greatly 
 outweigh the hassles. 


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[RBW] Re: Bike Travel - Share your thoughts

2014-01-02 Thread Ron Mc
you don't have to settle for a Brompton, though my nephew and his wife with 
two small kids crossed Australia on their Bromptons.  I mentioned my 
buddy's Dahon Tournado on another thread.  It's a high-quality full-size 
lightweight 700c tourer made for shipping, with a Ritchie-design folding 
frame.  He also has VO Constructeur racks front and rear set up with quick 
attachments and they easily fit in the Dahon case (the Dahon case is made 
by Serfas).  He assembles it in less than 10 minutes.  

On Thursday, January 2, 2014 10:57:18 AM UTC-6, blakcloud wrote:

 There is a guy on the Toronto CL that advertises renting out bike cases 
 for traveling but have no idea if your bike would fit.  At least your bike 
 will be protected. I have traveled with a fabric bag to carry my bike and 
 though it survived the bag didn't. I would never do it again the stress is 
 too much. I have also used a cardboard box for a tour once and had to 
 discard the box as I rode right from the airport. Then there was the hassle 
 of getting another box for traveling home. 

 Cost wise, for example Air Canada charges $35 for your second bag and $100 
 if it your third. Plus there is a charge of $50 for each portion of the 
 journey because it is a bike. Then you have to be careful that Air Canada 
 is actually the plane you are using and not another Star Alliance carrier 
 because their charges can be different even thought you paid Air Canada for 
 the ticket. So it is at least $85 each way if you have one other piece of 
 luggage if you fly economy. First class different story. If you rent a case 
 then add that on. Do that twice a year and you may rethink S and S 
 couplers. 

 My wife works for an airline, I essentially travel the world for next to 
 nothing and I had visions of bringing a bike with me so I bought us both 
 Bromptons. The Brompton rides like crap, might as well just rent a bike at 
 my destination. If I was doing another cycling vacation and was only doing 
 it once in a while I would go the bike case route and pay the charges. If I 
 was taking my bike somewhere twice a year, I would seriously think S  S 
 couplers. 

 Only my opinion. Others will chime in because there are plenty of people 
 who travel with their bikes and have no problems. The benefits greatly 
 outweigh the hassles. 


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Re: [RBW] Tire Width and Performance

2014-01-02 Thread Brewster Fong

On Thursday, January 2, 2014 7:20:28 AM UTC-8, James Warren wrote: 

  
 The one time my TaiwanColnago-riding friend was intrigued by wider tires, 
 he got some new 700x25's right before our ride, and 1 minute after putting 
 them on, he found that they cleared the seatstay bridge by about 0.2 mm! 
 But he otherwise likes his bike and likes to be fast and connects the 
 fastness to the bike frame and components, and so much for caring about 
 wider tires.

 
Yeah, I've been riding 700x25s at about 80-85psi for about 5 years now and 
love it! At first, I actually got alot of grief from my buddies for riding 
such *fat* tires! When you compared them to others who were on 700x20-23, 
my tires did look fat. Interestingly, I noticed no loss in performance and 
routinely coast by in my aero tuck pass my skinny buddies on the downhills 
as they furiously try to pedal to go faster. 
 
Unfortunately, like most people with carbon forks, 700x25 and crud fenders 
is the fattest tire I can fit. I suppose I could try a 700x28, but don't 
want to give up the fenders. Good Luck! 

  

  On Jan 2, 2014, at 6:56 AM, Tim McNamara wrote:

  So far no one I have ridden with has been intrigued about wider tires. 
  Maybe I need to find people with more curiosity!  :-)

 Your blog mentions the shorter contact patch of wider tires.  A decade or 
 so ago, one of the participants on rec.bicycles.tech made images of the 
 contact patches of various width tires.  What was striking was that he 
 showed little difference in the shape or size of the contact patch, 
 although perhaps his range of tire sizes was too small.  It would be 
 interesting to repeat this with good scientific rigor.

 Many wider tires, of course, do roll slower compared to skinny tires. 
  Tire manufacturers tend to put thicker rubber on wider tires for some 
 reason, perhaps marketing assumptions about the buyers of wider tires, 
 which increases hysteresis; casings for wider tires tend to be made with 
 heavier thread for reasons due to physics, which may increase hysteresis; 
 and of course wider tires with heavier casings and thicker tread will weigh 
 more and may affect the responsiveness of the bike to rider input.  High 
 quality performance oriented wide tires, such as the ones Jan promotes, are 
 a much different product.  Even my wide-ish mid-level 26 x 1.25 Paselas 
 roll very well compared to my 700 x 25s.

 P.S.-  my wife gave me the Rene Herse book for Christmas.  I am 100 pages 
 in and enjoying it very much, although perhaps the title should have been 
 Rene Herse and most of the history of French cyclotourisme.  I have 
 always enjoyed the historical articles in BQ and this book has that in 
 spades.  It is big enough that reading it in bed is self-limiting!

 Tim

 On Jan 2, 2014, at 8:21 AM, Jan Heine hei...@earthlink.net javascript: 
 wrote:

  Even though most RBW folks may not care all that much about going fast, 
 it's still nice to know that a wider tire doesn't roll any slower. We 
 summarized the data in our blog here:

 http://janheine.wordpress.com/2014/01/01/tires-how-wide-is-too-wide/

 If anything, it may help persuade those we meet on our rides, who look at 
 our bikes and are intrigued by the idea of a more comfortable bike with 
 wider tires, but are afraid they won't be able to keep up with their 
 friends if they add 5 or 10 mm to their tire width.

 Happy New Year!

 Jan Heine
 Editor
 Bicycle Quarterly
 www.bikequarterly.com

 Follow our blog at www.janheine.wordpress.com

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   James Warren
 jimcw...@earthlink.net javascript:

 - 700x55







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[RBW] Re: Tire Width and Performance

2014-01-02 Thread Ron Mc
again, rolling resistance is contact patch and rubber characteristics 
(compound, tread).  Weight is inertia and is felt in 
acceleration/deceleration.  Weight doesn't hurt you going downhill, as I'm 
often able to demonstrate - I'm 6'3 and 215 lbs. when lean.  

On Thursday, January 2, 2014 10:12:02 AM UTC-6, Garth wrote:


 How about heavier tires , have you done a test with those ?   You know ... 
 there's heavy , heavier and really really heavy tires !  Like those 2+ 
 pounders !  lol  ;)  


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Re: [RBW] Re: Carradice Barley mounting options for saddle without loops?

2014-01-02 Thread Dan McNamara
The nitto R-10 would be another option for a small bag support rack. A little 
better looking than the Bagman 2 and less expensive (although less functional) 
than the R-14. 

Dan

 On Jan 2, 2014, at 9:10 AM, Jim M. mather...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 I use one of these with my Barley:  http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/r13.htm
 
 Works well, and is unobtrusive. I think I've seen a similar item from other 
 manufacturers, but I can't recall where.
 
 jim m
 wc ca
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[RBW] Re: Bike Travel - Share your thoughts

2014-01-02 Thread dailyrandonneur
I've traveled with singles and tandems, both full size and SS. Every 
airline is different as another responder mentioned, and they change their 
policies from time to time, so nothing is completely static. 

One relative constant has been allowable size for checked luggage, 62 
linear inches. Outside that dimension you typically pay oversize fees even 
if you don't exceed the maxiumum weight limit. 

For the occasional trip, there is no doubt that paying the oversize fee and 
dragging around a full-size bike box is cheaper. I liked the Crateworks 
corrugated plastic box, it is lighter than a hard case but tougher than 
cardboard, folds up for storage and can be re-used. 

After a few trips, however, you could end up pay as much in fees as buying 
couplers and the SS case. The advantages of SS, in terms of reduced 
packing hassle and ease of movement during your trip, are of value to me 
even if I never fully pay off through travel. This is especially true with 
a tandem, where the trouble of lugging a huge box and paying big fees at 
the counter isn't my idea of fun travel. 

If you know you are going to travel with a frameset and are getting it 
repainted anyway, it's the right time to consider couplers. I recommend 
them. 

Ed
Washington, DC



On Thursday, January 2, 2014 11:16:04 AM UTC-5, Kieran J wrote:

 Hey Y'alls,
  
 I'm starting to think about air travel with a bike, with the first 
 possible destination of the Bay Area this upcoming summer (hoping to 
 repatriate the Ram Dawg, at least for a visit).
  
 Do any of you have experience with bike boxes or bike bags, on an airline? 
 TSC/ATA cases, fabric bags, cardboard bike boxes even?
  
 At first, I entertained the idea of installing SS couplers on the Ram (it 
 needs new paint anyways) but together, the retrofit would cost large $$. So 
 now I'm thinking about just flying with it, as is. The Ram is a 66cm, so 
 finding a box that would accommodate its sprawl would be one of the chief 
 concerns. 
  
 Any good experiences? Things to avoid? Anything to report with 
 various airlines' policies and costs, as well?
  
 Thanks!
  
 Kieran in Toronto


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[RBW] Re: How cold was your first day ride?

2014-01-02 Thread Chris Halasz
Tucson was a very nice 73°; rode the Brompton to the outdoor aquatic 
center, swam for my usual half hour, then stopped at Sprouts for a grocery 
run. 

Should've caught a pic at the pool; just have this one of the Brommie 
loaded after shopping (and with pool stuff): 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/sea-fisherman/11711897025

Sunset light nice against the Catalinas. 

Overcooked the eggplant on the outdoor grill, but a wonderful day. 

Cheers, 

Chris 

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[RBW] Re: Bike Travel - Share your thoughts

2014-01-02 Thread Kieran J
I can certainly see how it would be more convenient to schlep around. But I 
am a little concerned about this size frame fitting into the SS box. I 
haven't done any extensive reading or first hand trying, but it looks like 
it might be a no-go.
 
KJ
 

On Thursday, January 2, 2014 1:10:02 PM UTC-5, dailyrandonneur wrote:

 I've traveled with singles and tandems, both full size and SS. Every 
 airline is different as another responder mentioned, and they change their 
 policies from time to time, so nothing is completely static. 

 One relative constant has been allowable size for checked luggage, 62 
 linear inches. Outside that dimension you typically pay oversize fees even 
 if you don't exceed the maxiumum weight limit. 

 For the occasional trip, there is no doubt that paying the oversize fee 
 and dragging around a full-size bike box is cheaper. I liked the Crateworks 
 corrugated plastic box, it is lighter than a hard case but tougher than 
 cardboard, folds up for storage and can be re-used. 

 After a few trips, however, you could end up pay as much in fees as buying 
 couplers and the SS case. The advantages of SS, in terms of reduced 
 packing hassle and ease of movement during your trip, are of value to me 
 even if I never fully pay off through travel. This is especially true with 
 a tandem, where the trouble of lugging a huge box and paying big fees at 
 the counter isn't my idea of fun travel. 

 If you know you are going to travel with a frameset and are getting it 
 repainted anyway, it's the right time to consider couplers. I recommend 
 them. 

 Ed
 Washington, DC



 On Thursday, January 2, 2014 11:16:04 AM UTC-5, Kieran J wrote: 

  Hey Y'alls,
  
 I'm starting to think about air travel with a bike, with the first 
 possible destination of the Bay Area this upcoming summer (hoping to 
 repatriate the Ram Dawg, at least for a visit).
  
 Do any of you have experience with bike boxes or bike bags, on an 
 airline? TSC/ATA cases, fabric bags, cardboard bike boxes even?
  
 At first, I entertained the idea of installing SS couplers on the Ram 
 (it needs new paint anyways) but together, the retrofit would cost large 
 $$. So now I'm thinking about just flying with it, as is. The Ram is a 
 66cm, so finding a box that would accommodate its sprawl would be one of 
 the chief concerns. 
  
 Any good experiences? Things to avoid? Anything to report with 
 various airlines' policies and costs, as well?
  
 Thanks!
  
 Kieran in Toronto



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[RBW] Re: How cold was your first day ride?

2014-01-02 Thread Christian
It was just about perfect here in Charlottesville.  Perhaps 55?  Warm, in 
any case.  I got two rides in.  

The first with my son and the Hunq 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/cwmcmillen/11693630095/ and then another later 
in the day alone on my Terraferma 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/cwmcmillen/11696893076/in/photostream/.  My 
son, daughter and I went out this morning--very different: low 30s and 
overcast.  My almost 8 year old learned the hard way about wet roots and 
mountain bikes--they don't like each other.  

Happy new year all! 

Christian 

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[RBW] Re: Bike Travel - Share your thoughts

2014-01-02 Thread Minh
Just to tack onto this discussion, what do people do when they get to their 
destination?  Perfect world, unpack the bike and ride from the airport, or 
taxi to hotel then ride, but what if bike is only part of the trip?  How do 
you manage transporting by rental car?  

Would like to hear how people manage this in practical terms, i've always 
wanted to bring a bike but it seems like too much of a hassle.

On Thursday, January 2, 2014 1:26:18 PM UTC-5, Kieran J wrote:

 I can certainly see how it would be more convenient to schlep around. But 
 I am a little concerned about this size frame fitting into the SS box. I 
 haven't done any extensive reading or first hand trying, but it looks like 
 it might be a no-go.
  
 KJ
  

 On Thursday, January 2, 2014 1:10:02 PM UTC-5, dailyrandonneur wrote:

 I've traveled with singles and tandems, both full size and SS. Every 
 airline is different as another responder mentioned, and they change their 
 policies from time to time, so nothing is completely static. 

 One relative constant has been allowable size for checked luggage, 62 
 linear inches. Outside that dimension you typically pay oversize fees even 
 if you don't exceed the maxiumum weight limit. 

 For the occasional trip, there is no doubt that paying the oversize fee 
 and dragging around a full-size bike box is cheaper. I liked the Crateworks 
 corrugated plastic box, it is lighter than a hard case but tougher than 
 cardboard, folds up for storage and can be re-used. 

 After a few trips, however, you could end up pay as much in fees as 
 buying couplers and the SS case. The advantages of SS, in terms of 
 reduced packing hassle and ease of movement during your trip, are of value 
 to me even if I never fully pay off through travel. This is especially true 
 with a tandem, where the trouble of lugging a huge box and paying big fees 
 at the counter isn't my idea of fun travel. 

 If you know you are going to travel with a frameset and are getting it 
 repainted anyway, it's the right time to consider couplers. I recommend 
 them. 

 Ed
 Washington, DC



 On Thursday, January 2, 2014 11:16:04 AM UTC-5, Kieran J wrote: 

  Hey Y'alls,
  
 I'm starting to think about air travel with a bike, with the first 
 possible destination of the Bay Area this upcoming summer (hoping to 
 repatriate the Ram Dawg, at least for a visit).
  
 Do any of you have experience with bike boxes or bike bags, on an 
 airline? TSC/ATA cases, fabric bags, cardboard bike boxes even?
  
 At first, I entertained the idea of installing SS couplers on the Ram 
 (it needs new paint anyways) but together, the retrofit would cost large 
 $$. So now I'm thinking about just flying with it, as is. The Ram is a 
 66cm, so finding a box that would accommodate its sprawl would be one of 
 the chief concerns. 
  
 Any good experiences? Things to avoid? Anything to report with 
 various airlines' policies and costs, as well?
  
 Thanks!
  
 Kieran in Toronto



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[RBW] Re: Bike Travel - Share your thoughts

2014-01-02 Thread blakcloud
Never tell the airlines that is a bicycle when you pack it small. Tell them 
it is steel tubes, or a personal mobility device or sports equipment. The 
airlines are not suppose to charge you if it is under the 60 limit size. 
What some people do is get a letter from the customer service department of 
the airline that they carry with them, saying there is no charge if under 
the limit, which they show at the ticket counter. Some airlines have this 
on their websites, if they do print and take it with you,  Air Canada does 
not have this on their website. I once had an Air Canada agent in 
Washington DC try to charge me $50 because the box I was using had a 
picture of a bicycle on it. I explained to her first it was a Burley Travoy 
trailler, the box size couldn't fit a bike if I tried and I tried to 
explain to her the policies of the airline, but she didn't want to hear it. 
To her a bike is a bike is a bike. Because it wasn't a bike she didn't 
charge me but remember of who you have to deal with. 

Here is the current ad for the bike case rental 
place.http://toronto.en.craigslist.ca/tor/bik/4255532848.html

Hope that helps. 

On Thursday, January 2, 2014 12:22:03 PM UTC-5, Kieran J wrote:

 Hey Blakcloud,
  
 Yeah, I can see how the costs will add up quickly with a few trips abroad. 
 How does an SS frame packed up differ from a regular bike, in terms of 
 what you are charged? It's my understanding that Air Canada will charge you 
 the $50 as long as it's a bike, no matter what. I guess with an SS bike, 
 it's small enough that you could lie and say it's something else?
  
 The only place I know of to install SS couplers in the Toronto area is 
 True North, and he charges $750+350 for paint, so that's a lot. I guess a 
 smaller package would be convenient, but if it doesn't reduce the per-trip 
 fees, it would never pay for itself.
  
 I've seen that bike box rental ad, might look more closely at it. The 
 Serfas boxes that AC recommends are not exactly cheap.
  
 KJ
  

 On Thursday, January 2, 2014 11:57:18 AM UTC-5, blakcloud wrote:

 There is a guy on the Toronto CL that advertises renting out bike cases 
 for traveling but have no idea if your bike would fit.  At least your bike 
 will be protected. I have traveled with a fabric bag to carry my bike and 
 though it survived the bag didn't. I would never do it again the stress is 
 too much. I have also used a cardboard box for a tour once and had to 
 discard the box as I rode right from the airport. Then there was the hassle 
 of getting another box for traveling home. 

 Cost wise, for example Air Canada charges $35 for your second bag and 
 $100 if it your third. Plus there is a charge of $50 for each portion of 
 the journey because it is a bike. Then you have to be careful that Air 
 Canada is actually the plane you are using and not another Star Alliance 
 carrier because their charges can be different even thought you paid Air 
 Canada for the ticket. So it is at least $85 each way if you have one other 
 piece of luggage if you fly economy. First class different story. If you 
 rent a case then add that on. Do that twice a year and you may rethink S 
 and S couplers. 

 My wife works for an airline, I essentially travel the world for next to 
 nothing and I had visions of bringing a bike with me so I bought us both 
 Bromptons. The Brompton rides like crap, might as well just rent a bike at 
 my destination. If I was doing another cycling vacation and was only doing 
 it once in a while I would go the bike case route and pay the charges. If I 
 was taking my bike somewhere twice a year, I would seriously think S  S 
 couplers. 

 Only my opinion. Others will chime in because there are plenty of people 
 who travel with their bikes and have no problems. The benefits greatly 
 outweigh the hassles. 



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Re: [RBW] Tire Width and Performance

2014-01-02 Thread Bill Lindsay
the lighter tire/wheel has less inertia, so it accelerates easier and 
brakes much better - these things you can feel.  

Yes, many riders agree with you that you can feel a difference.  The 
testing has shown that you can't measure it, though.  Lighter tires feel 
faster without actually being faster, according to the data.  Since most of 
us ride for enjoyment, and many of us enjoy feeling fast, then it's 
probably good enough to feel faster on lighter tires, even though we'd 
actually be faster on wider tires.  Jan admitted the same effect.  Even he 
is fooled into 'feeling' faster on skinnier tires.  He can't leave it at 
that, though.  He has to go measure it, and found his feelings deceived 
him.  

On Thursday, January 2, 2014 7:48:35 AM UTC-8, Ron Mc wrote:

 Jim has done a very good job here by comparing different widths in 
 essentially the same high-quality tire - there is no significant weight 
 difference here.  
 Throwing out a data point, my buddy's Tournado on Dahon-specific 35mm 
 Schalwalbe's rolls every bit as efficiently as my Moser on 27-rear/ 
 25-front Challenge tubies (both bikes on American Classic hubs).  
 A good soft tire with high tpi casing will have a spherical contact patch, 
 while a skinny hard high pressure tire will have an oval contact patch of 
 essentially the same area, so there is little difference in that effect on 
 rolling resistance.  There is a good argument that a heavier tire with low 
 rolling resistance will go just as fast a lighter tire - while that's true, 
 the lighter tire/wheel has less inertia, so it accelerates easier and 
 brakes much better - these things you can feel.  

 On Thursday, January 2, 2014 9:12:10 AM UTC-6, Jim Bronson wrote:

 Where does tire weight factor in to all this?  I personally find lighter 
 tires to be faster for the most part, whether they're 23mm or 38mm (the 
 widths I am running on my Paul Taylor and Rivendell respectively).


 On Thu, Jan 2, 2014 at 8:21 AM, Jan Heine hei...@earthlink.net wrote:

 Even though most RBW folks may not care all that much about going fast, 
 it's still nice to know that a wider tire doesn't roll any slower. We 
 summarized the data in our blog here:

 http://janheine.wordpress.com/2014/01/01/tires-how-wide-is-too-wide/

 If anything, it may help persuade those we meet on our rides, who look 
 at our bikes and are intrigued by the idea of a more comfortable bike with 
 wider tires, but are afraid they won't be able to keep up with their 
 friends if they add 5 or 10 mm to their tire width.

 Happy New Year!

 Jan Heine
 Editor
 Bicycle Quarterly
 www.bikequarterly.com

 Follow our blog at www.janheine.wordpress.com
  
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 Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down! 



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[RBW] Re: Carradice Barley mounting options for saddle without loops?

2014-01-02 Thread Lynne Fitz
I have the original Carradice Bagman Sport, but I have saddle loops.  My 
bike is the one on the 
right: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lynnefitz/11559341344/

On Thursday, January 2, 2014 9:02:43 AM UTC-8, Jim Bronson wrote:

 I looked at just installing some loops onto the saddle rails, Velo Orange 
 sells some for just this purpose.  However, the bottom attachment point 
 says to attach it to the seatpost.  That doesn't seem like it's going to 
 work very well.  I don't want any sort of interference with my legs while 
 pedaling, so getting it away from my backside is a bit of a priority.

 I was considering this setup.  It is quite ugly, but seems like it would 
 be effective:
 http://www.wiggle.com/carradice-bagman-2-sport-support-bag-mount-qr/

 Rivendell sells the R-14 rear rack, which seems like it would work fine 
 for the purpose, and looks pretty, but it costs more than twice as much.
 http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/r14.htm

 Any thoughts?

 I do have some regular old racks just lying around too. That might be a 
 cheaper fix.  Just have to dig through the boxes in the garage to find 
 one...

 Jim

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[RBW] Re: How cold was your first day ride?

2014-01-02 Thread Deacon Patrick
Hope your daughter's OK. Wet roots and anything short of metal spikes don't 
get along well.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Thursday, January 2, 2014 11:27:24 AM UTC-7, Christian wrote:

 It was just about perfect here in Charlottesville.  Perhaps 55?  Warm, in 
 any case.  I got two rides in.  

 The first with my son and the Hunq 
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/cwmcmillen/11693630095/ and then another 
 later in the day alone on my Terraferma 
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/cwmcmillen/11696893076/in/photostream/.  My 
 son, daughter and I went out this morning--very different: low 30s and 
 overcast.  My almost 8 year old learned the hard way about wet roots and 
 mountain bikes--they don't like each other.  

 Happy new year all! 

 Christian 


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[RBW] Re: Bike Travel - Share your thoughts

2014-01-02 Thread Lynne Fitz
You should chat with the SS folks about packing a frame that large - 
they've got a huge database of how bikes of all sizes pack up.  That way 
you can decide if you want to do it.

I have two SS bikes, and it is SO worth it.  Granted, I haven't gone 
anywhere that I have wanted to ditch the case.  The one time we did a 10 
day bike tour in Europe, I just put our duffels in the case for transport 
in the van.

Pro tip: ensure the cable routing braze-ons are open, so you can completely 
detach the handlebars from the frame.

I have never paid anything beyond second suitcase charges for my bike. 
 Sometimes there was a conversation, but it always resolved in my favor, 
and to the airline's written policies.

On Thursday, January 2, 2014 8:16:04 AM UTC-8, Kieran J wrote:

 Hey Y'alls,
  
 I'm starting to think about air travel with a bike, with the first 
 possible destination of the Bay Area this upcoming summer (hoping to 
 repatriate the Ram Dawg, at least for a visit).
  
 Do any of you have experience with bike boxes or bike bags, on an airline? 
 TSC/ATA cases, fabric bags, cardboard bike boxes even?
  
 At first, I entertained the idea of installing SS couplers on the Ram (it 
 needs new paint anyways) but together, the retrofit would cost large $$. So 
 now I'm thinking about just flying with it, as is. The Ram is a 66cm, so 
 finding a box that would accommodate its sprawl would be one of the chief 
 concerns. 
  
 Any good experiences? Things to avoid? Anything to report with 
 various airlines' policies and costs, as well?
  
 Thanks!
  
 Kieran in Toronto


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Re: [RBW] Tire Width and Performance

2014-01-02 Thread Ron Mc
it's a little more than that - of course lighter wheels and tires 
accelerate more efficiently - it takes less effort to make the bike get up 
and go

On Thursday, January 2, 2014 12:54:29 PM UTC-6, Bill Lindsay wrote:

 the lighter tire/wheel has less inertia, so it accelerates easier and 
 brakes much better - these things you can feel.  

 Yes, many riders agree with you that you can feel a difference.  The 
 testing has shown that you can't measure it, though.  Lighter tires feel 
 faster without actually being faster, according to the data.  Since most of 
 us ride for enjoyment, and many of us enjoy feeling fast, then it's 
 probably good enough to feel faster on lighter tires, even though we'd 
 actually be faster on wider tires.  Jan admitted the same effect.  Even he 
 is fooled into 'feeling' faster on skinnier tires.  He can't leave it at 
 that, though.  He has to go measure it, and found his feelings deceived 
 him.  

 On Thursday, January 2, 2014 7:48:35 AM UTC-8, Ron Mc wrote:

 Jim has done a very good job here by comparing different widths in 
 essentially the same high-quality tire - there is no significant weight 
 difference here.  
 Throwing out a data point, my buddy's Tournado on Dahon-specific 35mm 
 Schalwalbe's rolls every bit as efficiently as my Moser on 27-rear/ 
 25-front Challenge tubies (both bikes on American Classic hubs).  
 A good soft tire with high tpi casing will have a spherical contact 
 patch, while a skinny hard high pressure tire will have an oval contact 
 patch of essentially the same area, so there is little difference in that 
 effect on rolling resistance.  There is a good argument that a heavier tire 
 with low rolling resistance will go just as fast a lighter tire - while 
 that's true, the lighter tire/wheel has less inertia, so it accelerates 
 easier and brakes much better - these things you can feel.  

 On Thursday, January 2, 2014 9:12:10 AM UTC-6, Jim Bronson wrote:

 Where does tire weight factor in to all this?  I personally find lighter 
 tires to be faster for the most part, whether they're 23mm or 38mm (the 
 widths I am running on my Paul Taylor and Rivendell respectively).


 On Thu, Jan 2, 2014 at 8:21 AM, Jan Heine hei...@earthlink.net wrote:

 Even though most RBW folks may not care all that much about going fast, 
 it's still nice to know that a wider tire doesn't roll any slower. We 
 summarized the data in our blog here:

 http://janheine.wordpress.com/2014/01/01/tires-how-wide-is-too-wide/

 If anything, it may help persuade those we meet on our rides, who look 
 at our bikes and are intrigued by the idea of a more comfortable bike with 
 wider tires, but are afraid they won't be able to keep up with their 
 friends if they add 5 or 10 mm to their tire width.

 Happy New Year!

 Jan Heine
 Editor
 Bicycle Quarterly
 www.bikequarterly.com

 Follow our blog at www.janheine.wordpress.com
  
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 Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down! 



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[RBW] Re: How cold was your first day ride?

2014-01-02 Thread Deacon Patrick
Girls are often better that way! (Not that I'm biased, with 4) Grin. When 
in doubt, LCG!

With abandon,
Patrick

On Thursday, January 2, 2014 12:00:03 PM UTC-7, Christian wrote:

 Thanks--she's fine; it was my son who crashed.  And he's OK too.  My 
 daughter had the sense to walk the section!  

 On Thursday, January 2, 2014 1:58:07 PM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 Hope your daughter's OK. Wet roots and anything short of metal spikes 
 don't get along well.

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 On Thursday, January 2, 2014 11:27:24 AM UTC-7, Christian wrote:

 It was just about perfect here in Charlottesville.  Perhaps 55?  Warm, 
 in any case.  I got two rides in.  

 The first with my son and the Hunq 
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/cwmcmillen/11693630095/ and then another 
 later in the day alone on my Terraferma 
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/cwmcmillen/11696893076/in/photostream/. 
  My son, daughter and I went out this morning--very different: low 30s and 
 overcast.  My almost 8 year old learned the hard way about wet roots and 
 mountain bikes--they don't like each other.  

 Happy new year all! 

 Christian 



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[RBW] Re: Bike Travel - Share your thoughts

2014-01-02 Thread dailyrandonneur
I'm interested in this limit as well. My bikes have 58/59cm top tubes. Our 
custom size Java 29er tandem is about as long as Co-Motion could make and 
still get into a case in three pieces, with the longest top tube section 
62cm. 

Let us know if you take it up with your installer. 

Ed

On Thursday, January 2, 2014 1:26:18 PM UTC-5, Kieran J wrote:

 I can certainly see how it would be more convenient to schlep around. But 
 I am a little concerned about this size frame fitting into the SS box. I 
 haven't done any extensive reading or first hand trying, but it looks like 
 it might be a no-go.
  
 KJ



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Re: [RBW] Bike Travel - Share your thoughts

2014-01-02 Thread Eric Norris
Great topic. I’ve had good and bad experiences traveling with bikes, mostly 
associated with being charged for putting a bike on a plane.

I’ve traveled with a bike three ways: 

1) With a folding and disassembled Dahon Speed Pro that fits (with some 
practice) in a standard-sized suitcase. Never a problem, but it’s a hassle to 
get it in and out of the case. I have never been charged for putting this on a 
plane.

2) With a slightly larger folding Dahon Smooth Hound that fits easily into a 
case that’s a few inches over the maximum size for “oversized luggage” (but 
below the 50-pound weight limit that most airlines use). In some cases, the 
baggage handlers or ticket counter staff take the case (which looks like a 
really big suitcase—no bicycle pictures on it) and put it on the conveyor. In 
others, the person accepting baggage gets out the tape measure and I know I’m 
about to be charged for oversized baggage. On a recent trip from Sacramento to 
Portland, this bike flew free on the way up, and I paid $75 on the way back. In 
my experience, it all comes down to how much of a stickler the person at the 
counter is. The guys accepting baggage outside the terminal seem to care less 
about a few inches of excess size, but that’s not a sure thing.

3) With a regular bike inside an Iron Case. I’ve flown around the US and to 
France twice this way without any problems. Downside is of course the cost—no 
getting a bike case on the plane without paying—and the need to have ground 
transport at the other end with the capacity for something this large. The 
airline I usually use (Southwest) now charges $75 per leg, which adds $150 to 
each trip. My personal calculation, based on the number of times I fly each 
year, doesn’t make it pencil out to get an SS-coupled frame.

I’ve been hunting around my local thrift store for a large, used suitcase that 
I could squeeze the Dahon Smooth Hound into. That would solve many of my 
problems—it’s a good bike that rides almost as well as a standard bike, and if 
I could fly with it for free it would be worth it.

--Eric Norris
Email: campyonly...@me.com
Web: www.campyonly.com
Blog: http://campyonlyguy.blogspot.com
Twitter: @CampyOnlyGuy
Flickr: www.flickr.com/photos/campyonlyguy

On Jan 2, 2014, at 8:16 AM, Kieran J kjo...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hey Y'alls,
  
 I'm starting to think about air travel with a bike, with the first possible 
 destination of the Bay Area this upcoming summer (hoping to repatriate the 
 Ram Dawg, at least for a visit).
  
 Do any of you have experience with bike boxes or bike bags, on an airline? 
 TSC/ATA cases, fabric bags, cardboard bike boxes even?
  
 At first, I entertained the idea of installing SS couplers on the Ram (it 
 needs new paint anyways) but together, the retrofit would cost large $$. So 
 now I'm thinking about just flying with it, as is. The Ram is a 66cm, so 
 finding a box that would accommodate its sprawl would be one of the chief 
 concerns.
  
 Any good experiences? Things to avoid? Anything to report with various 
 airlines' policies and costs, as well?
  
 Thanks!
  
 Kieran in Toronto
 
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[RBW] Re: Tire Width and Performance

2014-01-02 Thread BSWP
Thanks, Jan, always a treat to read your blog posts, for the insights and 
clear writing. I'm sharing this with several skinny friends who often 
comment on the girth (ahem) of my tires (33.33mm JackBrowns, both colours, 
on different bikes). 

- Andrew, Berkeley

On Thursday, January 2, 2014 6:21:53 AM UTC-8, Jan Heine wrote:

 Even though most RBW folks may not care all that much about going fast, 
 it's still nice to know that a wider tire doesn't roll any slower. We 
 summarized the data in our blog here:

 http://janheine.wordpress.com/2014/01/01/tires-how-wide-is-too-wide/

 If anything, it may help persuade those we meet on our rides, who look at 
 our bikes and are intrigued by the idea of a more comfortable bike with 
 wider tires, but are afraid they won't be able to keep up with their 
 friends if they add 5 or 10 mm to their tire width.

 Happy New Year!

 Jan Heine
 Editor
 Bicycle Quarterly
 www.bikequarterly.com

 Follow our blog at www.janheine.wordpress.com


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Re: [RBW] Tire Width and Performance

2014-01-02 Thread Bill Lindsay
I agree with you that it feels that way.  The math says that it's a tiny 
difference, though.  For example, accelerate from 0 to 30kph.  Do that with 
light wheels and calculate the energy it takes to get your body+bike moving 
that speed, and add the energy it takes to spin up those light wheels. 
 Then do the same calculation for heavy wheels, say 1000g heavier.  The 
math says it's about 2% easier to spin up light wheels from 0 to 30kph than 
it would if your wheel were a full 1kg heavier.  That's cold hard math. 
 You and I both know that wheels a full 1000g lighter FEEL way faster 
than 1 or 2%, but there you are.  Try and measure it in a test scenario and 
it would be extremely difficult to do.  

If you have a reference to measurements of improved braking distance as a 
function of wheel weight I'd be really interested to see it.  

Here's a site that does the accelleration calculations for dozens of 
wheels, if you are curious. 
 http://www.rouesartisanales.com/article-15988284.html  The author is 
making the point that lighter wheels are absolutely necessary to win at 
racing, particularly because of the ~2% improvement.  The math would 
suggest that decelleration during braking would have exactly the same ~2% 
improvement.  



On Thursday, January 2, 2014 11:09:00 AM UTC-8, Ron Mc wrote:

 it's a little more than that - of course lighter wheels and tires 
 accelerate more efficiently - it takes less effort to make the bike get up 
 and go

 On Thursday, January 2, 2014 12:54:29 PM UTC-6, Bill Lindsay wrote:

 the lighter tire/wheel has less inertia, so it accelerates easier and 
 brakes much better - these things you can feel.  

 Yes, many riders agree with you that you can feel a difference.  The 
 testing has shown that you can't measure it, though.  Lighter tires feel 
 faster without actually being faster, according to the data.  Since most of 
 us ride for enjoyment, and many of us enjoy feeling fast, then it's 
 probably good enough to feel faster on lighter tires, even though we'd 
 actually be faster on wider tires.  Jan admitted the same effect.  Even he 
 is fooled into 'feeling' faster on skinnier tires.  He can't leave it at 
 that, though.  He has to go measure it, and found his feelings deceived 
 him.  

 On Thursday, January 2, 2014 7:48:35 AM UTC-8, Ron Mc wrote:

 Jim has done a very good job here by comparing different widths in 
 essentially the same high-quality tire - there is no significant weight 
 difference here.  
 Throwing out a data point, my buddy's Tournado on Dahon-specific 35mm 
 Schalwalbe's rolls every bit as efficiently as my Moser on 27-rear/ 
 25-front Challenge tubies (both bikes on American Classic hubs).  
 A good soft tire with high tpi casing will have a spherical contact 
 patch, while a skinny hard high pressure tire will have an oval contact 
 patch of essentially the same area, so there is little difference in that 
 effect on rolling resistance.  There is a good argument that a heavier tire 
 with low rolling resistance will go just as fast a lighter tire - while 
 that's true, the lighter tire/wheel has less inertia, so it accelerates 
 easier and brakes much better - these things you can feel.  

 On Thursday, January 2, 2014 9:12:10 AM UTC-6, Jim Bronson wrote:

 Where does tire weight factor in to all this?  I personally find 
 lighter tires to be faster for the most part, whether they're 23mm or 38mm 
 (the widths I am running on my Paul Taylor and Rivendell respectively).


 On Thu, Jan 2, 2014 at 8:21 AM, Jan Heine hei...@earthlink.net wrote:

 Even though most RBW folks may not care all that much about going 
 fast, it's still nice to know that a wider tire doesn't roll any slower. 
 We 
 summarized the data in our blog here:

 http://janheine.wordpress.com/2014/01/01/tires-how-wide-is-too-wide/

 If anything, it may help persuade those we meet on our rides, who look 
 at our bikes and are intrigued by the idea of a more comfortable bike 
 with 
 wider tires, but are afraid they won't be able to keep up with their 
 friends if they add 5 or 10 mm to their tire width.

 Happy New Year!

 Jan Heine
 Editor
 Bicycle Quarterly
 www.bikequarterly.com

 Follow our blog at www.janheine.wordpress.com
  
 -- 
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 -- 
 Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down! 



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Re: [RBW] Re: Larger 650B Homer's

2014-01-02 Thread Steve Palincsar

On 01/02/2014 10:37 AM, Jim Cloud wrote:

Hi Steve,
How do you like your Berthoud saddle (I guess it's an Aspin model) 
versus the Brook B.17 you had on your Saluki?




I like them both.  The saddle that was on the Saluki is on my Kogswell 
P/R touring bike now (the seat rails on the old B.17 that was on that 
bike snapped while on a ride last year).



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Re: [RBW] Tire Width and Performance

2014-01-02 Thread Deacon Patrick
How does one like me account for rocks in the head, which I suspect more 
than negates any advantages of a lighter tire? Grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Thursday, January 2, 2014 12:25:11 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:

 I agree with you that it feels that way.  The math says that it's a tiny 
 difference, though.  For example, accelerate from 0 to 30kph.  Do that with 
 light wheels and calculate the energy it takes to get your body+bike moving 
 that speed, and add the energy it takes to spin up those light wheels. 
  Then do the same calculation for heavy wheels, say 1000g heavier.  The 
 math says it's about 2% easier to spin up light wheels from 0 to 30kph than 
 it would if your wheel were a full 1kg heavier.  That's cold hard math. 
  You and I both know that wheels a full 1000g lighter FEEL way faster 
 than 1 or 2%, but there you are.  Try and measure it in a test scenario and 
 it would be extremely difficult to do.  

 If you have a reference to measurements of improved braking distance as a 
 function of wheel weight I'd be really interested to see it.  

 Here's a site that does the accelleration calculations for dozens of 
 wheels, if you are curious.  
 http://www.rouesartisanales.com/article-15988284.html  The author is 
 making the point that lighter wheels are absolutely necessary to win at 
 racing, particularly because of the ~2% improvement.  The math would 
 suggest that decelleration during braking would have exactly the same ~2% 
 improvement.  



 On Thursday, January 2, 2014 11:09:00 AM UTC-8, Ron Mc wrote:

 it's a little more than that - of course lighter wheels and tires 
 accelerate more efficiently - it takes less effort to make the bike get up 
 and go

 On Thursday, January 2, 2014 12:54:29 PM UTC-6, Bill Lindsay wrote:

 the lighter tire/wheel has less inertia, so it accelerates easier and 
 brakes much better - these things you can feel.  

 Yes, many riders agree with you that you can feel a difference.  The 
 testing has shown that you can't measure it, though.  Lighter tires feel 
 faster without actually being faster, according to the data.  Since most of 
 us ride for enjoyment, and many of us enjoy feeling fast, then it's 
 probably good enough to feel faster on lighter tires, even though we'd 
 actually be faster on wider tires.  Jan admitted the same effect.  Even he 
 is fooled into 'feeling' faster on skinnier tires.  He can't leave it at 
 that, though.  He has to go measure it, and found his feelings deceived 
 him.  

 On Thursday, January 2, 2014 7:48:35 AM UTC-8, Ron Mc wrote:

 Jim has done a very good job here by comparing different widths in 
 essentially the same high-quality tire - there is no significant weight 
 difference here.  
 Throwing out a data point, my buddy's Tournado on Dahon-specific 35mm 
 Schalwalbe's rolls every bit as efficiently as my Moser on 27-rear/ 
 25-front Challenge tubies (both bikes on American Classic hubs).  
 A good soft tire with high tpi casing will have a spherical contact 
 patch, while a skinny hard high pressure tire will have an oval contact 
 patch of essentially the same area, so there is little difference in that 
 effect on rolling resistance.  There is a good argument that a heavier 
 tire 
 with low rolling resistance will go just as fast a lighter tire - while 
 that's true, the lighter tire/wheel has less inertia, so it accelerates 
 easier and brakes much better - these things you can feel.  

 On Thursday, January 2, 2014 9:12:10 AM UTC-6, Jim Bronson wrote:

 Where does tire weight factor in to all this?  I personally find 
 lighter tires to be faster for the most part, whether they're 23mm or 
 38mm 
 (the widths I am running on my Paul Taylor and Rivendell respectively).


 On Thu, Jan 2, 2014 at 8:21 AM, Jan Heine hei...@earthlink.netwrote:

 Even though most RBW folks may not care all that much about going 
 fast, it's still nice to know that a wider tire doesn't roll any slower. 
 We 
 summarized the data in our blog here:

 http://janheine.wordpress.com/2014/01/01/tires-how-wide-is-too-wide/

 If anything, it may help persuade those we meet on our rides, who 
 look at our bikes and are intrigued by the idea of a more comfortable 
 bike 
 with wider tires, but are afraid they won't be able to keep up with 
 their 
 friends if they add 5 or 10 mm to their tire width.

 Happy New Year!

 Jan Heine
 Editor
 Bicycle Quarterly
 www.bikequarterly.com

 Follow our blog at www.janheine.wordpress.com
  
 -- 
 You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
 Groups RBW Owners Bunch group.
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Re: [RBW] Tire Width and Performance

2014-01-02 Thread Bill Lindsay
People like you, Patrick, who are apt to lighten your mind with light and 
playful thoughts, more than counteract the cargo.  I bet you hardly notice. 
 Grinly grin.  

Bill 

On Thursday, January 2, 2014 11:37:36 AM UTC-8, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 How does one like me account for rocks in the head, which I suspect more 
 than negates any advantages of a lighter tire? Grin.

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 On Thursday, January 2, 2014 12:25:11 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:

 I agree with you that it feels that way.  The math says that it's a tiny 
 difference, though.  For example, accelerate from 0 to 30kph.  Do that with 
 light wheels and calculate the energy it takes to get your body+bike moving 
 that speed, and add the energy it takes to spin up those light wheels. 
  Then do the same calculation for heavy wheels, say 1000g heavier.  The 
 math says it's about 2% easier to spin up light wheels from 0 to 30kph than 
 it would if your wheel were a full 1kg heavier.  That's cold hard math. 
  You and I both know that wheels a full 1000g lighter FEEL way faster 
 than 1 or 2%, but there you are.  Try and measure it in a test scenario and 
 it would be extremely difficult to do.  

 If you have a reference to measurements of improved braking distance as a 
 function of wheel weight I'd be really interested to see it.  

 Here's a site that does the accelleration calculations for dozens of 
 wheels, if you are curious.  
 http://www.rouesartisanales.com/article-15988284.html  The author is 
 making the point that lighter wheels are absolutely necessary to win at 
 racing, particularly because of the ~2% improvement.  The math would 
 suggest that decelleration during braking would have exactly the same ~2% 
 improvement.  



 On Thursday, January 2, 2014 11:09:00 AM UTC-8, Ron Mc wrote:

 it's a little more than that - of course lighter wheels and tires 
 accelerate more efficiently - it takes less effort to make the bike get up 
 and go

 On Thursday, January 2, 2014 12:54:29 PM UTC-6, Bill Lindsay wrote:

 the lighter tire/wheel has less inertia, so it accelerates easier and 
 brakes much better - these things you can feel.  

 Yes, many riders agree with you that you can feel a difference.  The 
 testing has shown that you can't measure it, though.  Lighter tires feel 
 faster without actually being faster, according to the data.  Since most 
 of 
 us ride for enjoyment, and many of us enjoy feeling fast, then it's 
 probably good enough to feel faster on lighter tires, even though we'd 
 actually be faster on wider tires.  Jan admitted the same effect.  Even he 
 is fooled into 'feeling' faster on skinnier tires.  He can't leave it at 
 that, though.  He has to go measure it, and found his feelings deceived 
 him.  

 On Thursday, January 2, 2014 7:48:35 AM UTC-8, Ron Mc wrote:

 Jim has done a very good job here by comparing different widths in 
 essentially the same high-quality tire - there is no significant weight 
 difference here.  
 Throwing out a data point, my buddy's Tournado on Dahon-specific 35mm 
 Schalwalbe's rolls every bit as efficiently as my Moser on 27-rear/ 
 25-front Challenge tubies (both bikes on American Classic hubs).  
 A good soft tire with high tpi casing will have a spherical contact 
 patch, while a skinny hard high pressure tire will have an oval contact 
 patch of essentially the same area, so there is little difference in that 
 effect on rolling resistance.  There is a good argument that a heavier 
 tire 
 with low rolling resistance will go just as fast a lighter tire - while 
 that's true, the lighter tire/wheel has less inertia, so it accelerates 
 easier and brakes much better - these things you can feel.  

 On Thursday, January 2, 2014 9:12:10 AM UTC-6, Jim Bronson wrote:

 Where does tire weight factor in to all this?  I personally find 
 lighter tires to be faster for the most part, whether they're 23mm or 
 38mm 
 (the widths I am running on my Paul Taylor and Rivendell respectively).


 On Thu, Jan 2, 2014 at 8:21 AM, Jan Heine hei...@earthlink.netwrote:

 Even though most RBW folks may not care all that much about going 
 fast, it's still nice to know that a wider tire doesn't roll any 
 slower. We 
 summarized the data in our blog here:

 http://janheine.wordpress.com/2014/01/01/tires-how-wide-is-too-wide/

 If anything, it may help persuade those we meet on our rides, who 
 look at our bikes and are intrigued by the idea of a more comfortable 
 bike 
 with wider tires, but are afraid they won't be able to keep up with 
 their 
 friends if they add 5 or 10 mm to their tire width.

 Happy New Year!

 Jan Heine
 Editor
 Bicycle Quarterly
 www.bikequarterly.com

 Follow our blog at www.janheine.wordpress.com
  
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Re: [RBW] Bike Travel - Share your thoughts

2014-01-02 Thread dailyrandonneur
Eric, what does Dahon say about putting the Rock Hound in the Samsonite 
case Bike Friday sells? 
http://store.bikefriday.com/product_info.php?cPath=46products_id=10966

We have these cases from our Friday purchases and use one of them when we 
travel with the tandem. 

The Samsonite is more rectangular which allows us to drop in the front 
section of our tandem without removing the tall fork. We spread the tandem 
frame over three cases, this one and two SS cases (which get one wheel 
each) and stuff them with clothes that would take up our third suitcase. 

Ed 
Washington, DC



On Thursday, January 2, 2014 2:14:42 PM UTC-5, Eric Norris wrote:

 Great topic. I’ve had good and bad experiences traveling with bikes, 
 mostly associated with being charged for putting a bike on a plane.

 I’ve traveled with a bike three ways: 

 1) With a folding and disassembled Dahon Speed Pro that fits (with some 
 practice) in a standard-sized suitcase. Never a problem, but it’s a hassle 
 to get it in and out of the case. I have never been charged for putting 
 this on a plane.

 2) With a slightly larger folding Dahon Smooth Hound that fits easily into 
 a case that’s a few inches over the maximum size for “oversized luggage” 
 (but below the 50-pound weight limit that most airlines use). In some 
 cases, the baggage handlers or ticket counter staff take the case (which 
 looks like a really big suitcase—no bicycle pictures on it) and put it on 
 the conveyor. In others, the person accepting baggage gets out the tape 
 measure and I know I’m about to be charged for oversized baggage. On a 
 recent trip from Sacramento to Portland, this bike flew free on the way up, 
 and I paid $75 on the way back. In my experience, it all comes down to how 
 much of a stickler the person at the counter is. The guys accepting baggage 
 outside the terminal seem to care less about a few inches of excess size, 
 but that’s not a sure thing.

 3) With a regular bike inside an Iron Case. I’ve flown around the US and 
 to France twice this way without any problems. Downside is of course the 
 cost—no getting a bike case on the plane without paying—and the need to 
 have ground transport at the other end with the capacity for something this 
 large. The airline I usually use (Southwest) now charges $75 per leg, which 
 adds $150 to each trip. My personal calculation, based on the number of 
 times I fly each year, doesn’t make it pencil out to get an SS-coupled 
 frame.

 I’ve been hunting around my local thrift store for a large, used suitcase 
 that I could squeeze the Dahon Smooth Hound into. That would solve many of 
 my problems—it’s a good bike that rides almost as well as a standard bike, 
 and if I could fly with it for free it would be worth it.

 --Eric Norris
 Email: campyo...@me.com javascript:
 Web: www.campyonly.com
 Blog: http://campyonlyguy.blogspot.com
 Twitter: @CampyOnlyGuy
 Flickr: www.flickr.com/photos/campyonlyguy 

 On Jan 2, 2014, at 8:16 AM, Kieran J kjo...@gmail.com javascript: 
 wrote:

 Hey Y'alls,
  
 I'm starting to think about air travel with a bike, with the first 
 possible destination of the Bay Area this upcoming summer (hoping to 
 repatriate the Ram Dawg, at least for a visit).
  
 Do any of you have experience with bike boxes or bike bags, on an airline? 
 TSC/ATA cases, fabric bags, cardboard bike boxes even?
  
 At first, I entertained the idea of installing SS couplers on the Ram (it 
 needs new paint anyways) but together, the retrofit would cost large $$. So 
 now I'm thinking about just flying with it, as is. The Ram is a 66cm, so 
 finding a box that would accommodate its sprawl would be one of the chief 
 concerns. 
  
 Any good experiences? Things to avoid? Anything to report with 
 various airlines' policies and costs, as well?
  
 Thanks!
  
 Kieran in Toronto

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Re: [RBW] Re: Albas Thumbies setup

2014-01-02 Thread EGNolan
No. I've got bar ends or DT's on my bikes, but my wife's bike has an old 
SunTour thumbie on the inside (I used the left shifter on the inside of the 
right) and I thought it may be awkward as well, but it's not. No more than 
pulling it back when it's placed towards the top anyway.
 
Best,
Eric
 

 That looks like it would work well pushing down with the thumb but be 
 awkward when pulling up.  No?

  



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Re: [RBW] Bike Travel - Share your thoughts

2014-01-02 Thread Eric Norris
I would have to check. My guess is that this is a bit too small for the Smooth 
Hound, which has a more standard-looking frame than some of their other folders 
and doesn’t fold into as small a package.

The Smooth Hound is no longer made, but this Dahon looks basically the same:

http://dahon.com/mainnav/folding-bikes/single-view/bike/dash_p18-1.html 

Mine came with mustache bars, which I changed out with standard drop bars 
(which take up a little more space).

--Eric Norris
Email: campyonly...@me.com
Web: www.campyonly.com
Blog: http://campyonlyguy.blogspot.com
Twitter: @CampyOnlyGuy
Flickr: www.flickr.com/photos/campyonlyguy

On Jan 2, 2014, at 11:47 AM, dailyrandonneur eddie...@gmail.com wrote:

 Eric, what does Dahon say about putting the Rock Hound in the Samsonite case 
 Bike Friday sells? 
 http://store.bikefriday.com/product_info.php?cPath=46products_id=10966
 
 We have these cases from our Friday purchases and use one of them when we 
 travel with the tandem. 
 
 The Samsonite is more rectangular which allows us to drop in the front 
 section of our tandem without removing the tall fork. We spread the tandem 
 frame over three cases, this one and two SS cases (which get one wheel each) 
 and stuff them with clothes that would take up our third suitcase. 
 
 Ed 
 Washington, DC
 
 
 
 On Thursday, January 2, 2014 2:14:42 PM UTC-5, Eric Norris wrote:
 Great topic. I’ve had good and bad experiences traveling with bikes, mostly 
 associated with being charged for putting a bike on a plane.
 
 I’ve traveled with a bike three ways: 
 
 1) With a folding and disassembled Dahon Speed Pro that fits (with some 
 practice) in a standard-sized suitcase. Never a problem, but it’s a hassle to 
 get it in and out of the case. I have never been charged for putting this on 
 a plane.
 
 2) With a slightly larger folding Dahon Smooth Hound that fits easily into a 
 case that’s a few inches over the maximum size for “oversized luggage” (but 
 below the 50-pound weight limit that most airlines use). In some cases, the 
 baggage handlers or ticket counter staff take the case (which looks like a 
 really big suitcase—no bicycle pictures on it) and put it on the conveyor. In 
 others, the person accepting baggage gets out the tape measure and I know I’m 
 about to be charged for oversized baggage. On a recent trip from Sacramento 
 to Portland, this bike flew free on the way up, and I paid $75 on the way 
 back. In my experience, it all comes down to how much of a stickler the 
 person at the counter is. The guys accepting baggage outside the terminal 
 seem to care less about a few inches of excess size, but that’s not a sure 
 thing.
 
 3) With a regular bike inside an Iron Case. I’ve flown around the US and to 
 France twice this way without any problems. Downside is of course the cost—no 
 getting a bike case on the plane without paying—and the need to have ground 
 transport at the other end with the capacity for something this large. The 
 airline I usually use (Southwest) now charges $75 per leg, which adds $150 to 
 each trip. My personal calculation, based on the number of times I fly each 
 year, doesn’t make it pencil out to get an SS-coupled frame.
 
 I’ve been hunting around my local thrift store for a large, used suitcase 
 that I could squeeze the Dahon Smooth Hound into. That would solve many of my 
 problems—it’s a good bike that rides almost as well as a standard bike, and 
 if I could fly with it for free it would be worth it.
 
 --Eric Norris
 Email: campyo...@me.com
 Web: www.campyonly.com
 Blog: http://campyonlyguy.blogspot.com
 Twitter: @CampyOnlyGuy
 Flickr: www.flickr.com/photos/campyonlyguy
 
 On Jan 2, 2014, at 8:16 AM, Kieran J kjo...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Hey Y'alls,
  
 I'm starting to think about air travel with a bike, with the first possible 
 destination of the Bay Area this upcoming summer (hoping to repatriate the 
 Ram Dawg, at least for a visit).
  
 Do any of you have experience with bike boxes or bike bags, on an airline? 
 TSC/ATA cases, fabric bags, cardboard bike boxes even?
  
 At first, I entertained the idea of installing SS couplers on the Ram (it 
 needs new paint anyways) but together, the retrofit would cost large $$. So 
 now I'm thinking about just flying with it, as is. The Ram is a 66cm, so 
 finding a box that would accommodate its sprawl would be one of the chief 
 concerns.
  
 Any good experiences? Things to avoid? Anything to report with various 
 airlines' policies and costs, as well?
  
 Thanks!
  
 Kieran in Toronto
 
 -- 
 You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
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 You 

[RBW] Re: Tire Width and Performance

2014-01-02 Thread Garth

Too complicated for me ... lol... too many intangibles . 

I'll just stick to riding :)   (When the weather warms up that is )


On Thursday, January 2, 2014 12:41:09 PM UTC-5, Ron Mc wrote:

 again, rolling resistance is contact patch and rubber characteristics 
 (compound, tread).  Weight is inertia and is felt in 
 acceleration/deceleration.  Weight doesn't hurt you going downhill, as I'm 
 often able to demonstrate - I'm 6'3 and 215 lbs. when lean.  




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Re: [RBW] Tire Width and Performance

2014-01-02 Thread Deacon Patrick
Helium filled tires! Great idea, Bill! Grinly grin. I like that too. Grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Thursday, January 2, 2014 12:43:19 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:

 People like you, Patrick, who are apt to lighten your mind with light and 
 playful thoughts, more than counteract the cargo.  I bet you hardly notice. 
  Grinly grin.  

 Bill 

 On Thursday, January 2, 2014 11:37:36 AM UTC-8, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 How does one like me account for rocks in the head, which I suspect more 
 than negates any advantages of a lighter tire? Grin.

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 On Thursday, January 2, 2014 12:25:11 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:

 I agree with you that it feels that way.  The math says that it's a tiny 
 difference, though.  For example, accelerate from 0 to 30kph.  Do that with 
 light wheels and calculate the energy it takes to get your body+bike moving 
 that speed, and add the energy it takes to spin up those light wheels. 
  Then do the same calculation for heavy wheels, say 1000g heavier.  The 
 math says it's about 2% easier to spin up light wheels from 0 to 30kph than 
 it would if your wheel were a full 1kg heavier.  That's cold hard math. 
  You and I both know that wheels a full 1000g lighter FEEL way faster 
 than 1 or 2%, but there you are.  Try and measure it in a test scenario and 
 it would be extremely difficult to do.  

 If you have a reference to measurements of improved braking distance as 
 a function of wheel weight I'd be really interested to see it.  

 Here's a site that does the accelleration calculations for dozens of 
 wheels, if you are curious.  
 http://www.rouesartisanales.com/article-15988284.html  The author is 
 making the point that lighter wheels are absolutely necessary to win at 
 racing, particularly because of the ~2% improvement.  The math would 
 suggest that decelleration during braking would have exactly the same ~2% 
 improvement.  



 On Thursday, January 2, 2014 11:09:00 AM UTC-8, Ron Mc wrote:

 it's a little more than that - of course lighter wheels and tires 
 accelerate more efficiently - it takes less effort to make the bike get up 
 and go

 On Thursday, January 2, 2014 12:54:29 PM UTC-6, Bill Lindsay wrote:

 the lighter tire/wheel has less inertia, so it accelerates easier and 
 brakes much better - these things you can feel.  

 Yes, many riders agree with you that you can feel a difference.  The 
 testing has shown that you can't measure it, though.  Lighter tires feel 
 faster without actually being faster, according to the data.  Since most 
 of 
 us ride for enjoyment, and many of us enjoy feeling fast, then it's 
 probably good enough to feel faster on lighter tires, even though we'd 
 actually be faster on wider tires.  Jan admitted the same effect.  Even 
 he 
 is fooled into 'feeling' faster on skinnier tires.  He can't leave it at 
 that, though.  He has to go measure it, and found his feelings deceived 
 him.  

 On Thursday, January 2, 2014 7:48:35 AM UTC-8, Ron Mc wrote:

 Jim has done a very good job here by comparing different widths in 
 essentially the same high-quality tire - there is no significant weight 
 difference here.  
 Throwing out a data point, my buddy's Tournado on Dahon-specific 35mm 
 Schalwalbe's rolls every bit as efficiently as my Moser on 27-rear/ 
 25-front Challenge tubies (both bikes on American Classic hubs).  
 A good soft tire with high tpi casing will have a spherical contact 
 patch, while a skinny hard high pressure tire will have an oval contact 
 patch of essentially the same area, so there is little difference in 
 that 
 effect on rolling resistance.  There is a good argument that a heavier 
 tire 
 with low rolling resistance will go just as fast a lighter tire - while 
 that's true, the lighter tire/wheel has less inertia, so it accelerates 
 easier and brakes much better - these things you can feel.  

 On Thursday, January 2, 2014 9:12:10 AM UTC-6, Jim Bronson wrote:

 Where does tire weight factor in to all this?  I personally find 
 lighter tires to be faster for the most part, whether they're 23mm or 
 38mm 
 (the widths I am running on my Paul Taylor and Rivendell respectively).


 On Thu, Jan 2, 2014 at 8:21 AM, Jan Heine hei...@earthlink.netwrote:

 Even though most RBW folks may not care all that much about going 
 fast, it's still nice to know that a wider tire doesn't roll any 
 slower. We 
 summarized the data in our blog here:

 http://janheine.wordpress.com/2014/01/01/tires-how-wide-is-too-wide/

 If anything, it may help persuade those we meet on our rides, who 
 look at our bikes and are intrigued by the idea of a more comfortable 
 bike 
 with wider tires, but are afraid they won't be able to keep up with 
 their 
 friends if they add 5 or 10 mm to their tire width.

 Happy New Year!

 Jan Heine
 Editor
 Bicycle Quarterly
 www.bikequarterly.com

 Follow our blog at www.janheine.wordpress.com
  
 -- 
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 Groups 

Re: [RBW] Tire Width and Performance

2014-01-02 Thread Christopher Chen
Jan:

I see analogues to the logic behind wider tires and the logic behind making
that leap to dynamo lighting (which I think is something you've said
before). And of course nothing I say will be particularly controversial to
readers of this list, so:

I want to go as fast as anyone else, but I also want to go more places more
times.

Dynamo lighting opens up the night, so I get more time to ride without
worrying about being stranded somewhere with a dead battery.

Fatter tires opens up the space, so I get more places to ride without
thinking, hrm, this is a bit rough and unpleasant.

I particularly like this passage:

Most of all, you’ll be enticed to go on small roads that have great
scenery and little traffic – roads you might have avoided with narrow tires
because the pavement tends to be rough. With more comfortable tires, you
can even enjoy roads with no pavement at all!

cc


On Thu, Jan 2, 2014 at 6:21 AM, Jan Heine hein...@earthlink.net wrote:

 Even though most RBW folks may not care all that much about going fast,
 it's still nice to know that a wider tire doesn't roll any slower. We
 summarized the data in our blog here:

 http://janheine.wordpress.com/2014/01/01/tires-how-wide-is-too-wide/

 If anything, it may help persuade those we meet on our rides, who look at
 our bikes and are intrigued by the idea of a more comfortable bike with
 wider tires, but are afraid they won't be able to keep up with their
 friends if they add 5 or 10 mm to their tire width.

 Happy New Year!

 Jan Heine
 Editor
 Bicycle Quarterly
 www.bikequarterly.com

 Follow our blog at www.janheine.wordpress.com

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Re: [RBW] How cold was your first day ride?

2014-01-02 Thread rob markwardt
Bad writing. Only one crash...New Years eve day.  So far unscathed in 2014.

On Thursday, January 2, 2014 6:13:51 AM UTC-8, Steve Palincsar wrote:

 On 01/01/2014 10:16 PM, rob markwardt wrote: 
  Today was 45 degrees in Seattle (isn't it always?)   I crashed the 
  Bleriot yesterday and since my crashes seem to come is twos, today I 
  headed for a spot with softer landing...75 minutes on the trails of 
  Woodland Park on my now 30 year old Ross Mountain bike (made it 
  without incident).  Slippery corner taken too fast took me down..funny 
  but I could see it coming (unfortunately too late to do anything). My 
  16 year old Seiko got the worst of it but I have similar looking 
  scrapes in my skin on all left side contact points (ankle, knee, hip, 
  knuckle,and shoulder).  The last thing to hit the ground (my melon) 
  came out fine due to my helmet.  (promise...first, last, only helmet 
  post of the year).  I don't think I would have died or anything but 
  I'm pretty confident I'd have been feeling quite a bit different these 
  last two day.  Here's to a safe 2014. 

 You crashed yesterday, then set out today to crash again and succeeded?   
 Ouch X 2!  I hope that satisfies your quota for the year. 



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[RBW] Re: Bike Travel - Share your thoughts

2014-01-02 Thread dougP
You've thought of a couple of the unintended consequences of traveling with 
a bike.  Remember you need the box for the return trip.  

While it seems quite practical, putting together a bike at the airport 
after a long distance flight is nothing I would ever attempt.  I'm too 
dingy at that point to have much chance of doing it right, plus all the 
other assorted hassles of the airport.

If you are doing a loop ride and flying back out of the same airport, use a 
cab or shuttle to get you  your bike to lodging.  They usually have large 
enough vehicles to carry the bike.  If you arrange it in advance, you can 
find a place to store the box while you are on your trip.  

If you are doing a point-to-point, it gets a bit tricky.  Here you'll want 
a disposable box (scrounged from your LBS) for the outbound leg and arrange 
with a bike shop at the end of your trip for a box for the return.  
Hopefully since your flying some distance it will be a big airport in a 
major city with bike shops.  

If you are flying in someplace, then renting a car to get out to the start 
of the bike portion, the parts of the bike (frame, wheels, etc) are easier 
to get in a rental car than the boxed bike.  Cars with conventional trunks 
don't hold much  are awkwardly shaped for large objects like bikes.  Vans 
are the answer but also expensive and in high demand during vacation season.

What if the bike is only part of the trip?  Now you're in a pickle.  As 
agile as a bike may be when ridden, it's a huge anchor to drag around if 
you're not using it.  Solutions are renting a bike for the portion you need 
it (say, 1 week out of a 2-3 week vacation) or arranging to store your own 
bike some place convenient (and safe!).  

It's stuff like this that made SS couplers business.  I don't have one but 
have packed an SS equipped bike.  It's amazing but that 62 suitcase fills 
up fast.  

dougP

On Thursday, January 2, 2014 10:29:44 AM UTC-8, Minh wrote:

 Just to tack onto this discussion, what do people do when they get to 
 their destination?  Perfect world, unpack the bike and ride from the 
 airport, or taxi to hotel then ride, but what if bike is only part of the 
 trip?  How do you manage transporting by rental car?  

 Would like to hear how people manage this in practical terms, i've always 
 wanted to bring a bike but it seems like too much of a hassle.

 On Thursday, January 2, 2014 1:26:18 PM UTC-5, Kieran J wrote:

 I can certainly see how it would be more convenient to schlep around. But 
 I am a little concerned about this size frame fitting into the SS box. I 
 haven't done any extensive reading or first hand trying, but it looks like 
 it might be a no-go.
  
 KJ
  

 On Thursday, January 2, 2014 1:10:02 PM UTC-5, dailyrandonneur wrote:

 I've traveled with singles and tandems, both full size and SS. Every 
 airline is different as another responder mentioned, and they change their 
 policies from time to time, so nothing is completely static. 

 One relative constant has been allowable size for checked luggage, 62 
 linear inches. Outside that dimension you typically pay oversize fees even 
 if you don't exceed the maxiumum weight limit. 

 For the occasional trip, there is no doubt that paying the oversize fee 
 and dragging around a full-size bike box is cheaper. I liked the Crateworks 
 corrugated plastic box, it is lighter than a hard case but tougher than 
 cardboard, folds up for storage and can be re-used. 

 After a few trips, however, you could end up pay as much in fees as 
 buying couplers and the SS case. The advantages of SS, in terms of 
 reduced packing hassle and ease of movement during your trip, are of value 
 to me even if I never fully pay off through travel. This is especially true 
 with a tandem, where the trouble of lugging a huge box and paying big fees 
 at the counter isn't my idea of fun travel. 

 If you know you are going to travel with a frameset and are getting it 
 repainted anyway, it's the right time to consider couplers. I recommend 
 them. 

 Ed
 Washington, DC



 On Thursday, January 2, 2014 11:16:04 AM UTC-5, Kieran J wrote: 

  Hey Y'alls,
  
 I'm starting to think about air travel with a bike, with the first 
 possible destination of the Bay Area this upcoming summer (hoping to 
 repatriate the Ram Dawg, at least for a visit).
  
 Do any of you have experience with bike boxes or bike bags, on an 
 airline? TSC/ATA cases, fabric bags, cardboard bike boxes even?
  
 At first, I entertained the idea of installing SS couplers on the Ram 
 (it needs new paint anyways) but together, the retrofit would cost large 
 $$. So now I'm thinking about just flying with it, as is. The Ram is a 
 66cm, so finding a box that would accommodate its sprawl would be one of 
 the chief concerns. 
  
 Any good experiences? Things to avoid? Anything to report with 
 various airlines' policies and costs, as well?
  
 Thanks!
  
 Kieran in Toronto



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Re: [RBW] How cold was your first day ride?

2014-01-02 Thread Steve Palincsar

On 01/02/2014 03:20 PM, rob markwardt wrote:
Bad writing. Only one crash...New Years eve day.  So far unscathed in 
2014.


I'm happy to hear that, and I hope it stays that way all year.



On Thursday, January 2, 2014 6:13:51 AM UTC-8, Steve Palincsar wrote:

On 01/01/2014 10:16 PM, rob markwardt wrote:
 Today was 45 degrees in Seattle (isn't it always?)   I crashed the
 Bleriot yesterday and since my crashes seem to come is twos,
today I
 headed for a spot with softer landing...75 minutes on the trails of
 Woodland Park on my now 30 year old Ross Mountain bike (made it
 without incident).  Slippery corner taken too fast took me
down..funny
 but I could see it coming (unfortunately too late to do
anything). My
 16 year old Seiko got the worst of it but I have similar looking
 scrapes in my skin on all left side contact points (ankle, knee,
hip,
 knuckle,and shoulder).  The last thing to hit the ground (my melon)
 came out fine due to my helmet.  (promise...first, last, only
helmet
 post of the year).  I don't think I would have died or anything but
 I'm pretty confident I'd have been feeling quite a bit different
these
 last two day.  Here's to a safe 2014.

You crashed yesterday, then set out today to crash again and
succeeded?
Ouch X 2!  I hope that satisfies your quota for the year.



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[RBW] Re: Bike Travel - Share your thoughts

2014-01-02 Thread Kieran J
The more I think about it, the more of an aversion I'm developing to the 
idea that many types of trips are possible with a bike. Maybe a folding 
bike, but not the Ram. 
 
Doug, you've pointed out the unpleasant reality that lugging a bike around 
can be a pain. I think in my case, for my mental well-being, I can only 
consider simple there-and-back trips that are planned for the purpose of 
riding. I can envision a trip to SF in my mind, because it will be a 
cycling destination, and I have somewhere to stay where I can store the 
bike and the box. I can certainly see a more complicated trip, such as 
touring across Europe with multiple legs of the journey, turning into a 
logisitical nightmare.
 
I'm happy stinge-ing it, I think. Renting/borrowing a box for the first 
time out, and taking the bike I have in its current state, and just eating 
the fees as part of the trip, makes sense to me.
 
KJ
 

On Thursday, January 2, 2014 4:12:52 PM UTC-5, dougP wrote:

 You've thought of a couple of the unintended consequences of traveling 
 with a bike.  Remember you need the box for the return trip.  

 While it seems quite practical, putting together a bike at the airport 
 after a long distance flight is nothing I would ever attempt.  I'm too 
 dingy at that point to have much chance of doing it right, plus all the 
 other assorted hassles of the airport.

 If you are doing a loop ride and flying back out of the same airport, use 
 a cab or shuttle to get you  your bike to lodging.  They usually have 
 large enough vehicles to carry the bike.  If you arrange it in advance, you 
 can find a place to store the box while you are on your trip.  

 If you are doing a point-to-point, it gets a bit tricky.  Here you'll want 
 a disposable box (scrounged from your LBS) for the outbound leg and arrange 
 with a bike shop at the end of your trip for a box for the return.  
 Hopefully since your flying some distance it will be a big airport in a 
 major city with bike shops.  

 If you are flying in someplace, then renting a car to get out to the start 
 of the bike portion, the parts of the bike (frame, wheels, etc) are easier 
 to get in a rental car than the boxed bike.  Cars with conventional trunks 
 don't hold much  are awkwardly shaped for large objects like bikes.  Vans 
 are the answer but also expensive and in high demand during vacation season.

 What if the bike is only part of the trip?  Now you're in a pickle.  As 
 agile as a bike may be when ridden, it's a huge anchor to drag around if 
 you're not using it.  Solutions are renting a bike for the portion you need 
 it (say, 1 week out of a 2-3 week vacation) or arranging to store your own 
 bike some place convenient (and safe!).  

 It's stuff like this that made SS couplers business.  I don't have one 
 but have packed an SS equipped bike.  It's amazing but that 62 suitcase 
 fills up fast.  

 dougP



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[RBW] Re: Bike Travel - Share your thoughts

2014-01-02 Thread Michael Hechmer
We ordered our tandem from Bilenkey with SS couplers and haven't regretted 
it.  He's the low cost option for couplers.

Since I already had two cases I opted for couplers when I repainted my 
Trek(62cm)  converted it to 650b.  Learning to pack takes some practice 
but the travel is hassle free.

I looked at all the crate options for a long time and decided against, but 
in the process learned about shipbikes.com.   I used them to ship my frame 
to Bilenky and found it to be much cheaper than any other alternative, and 
really easy too.  If I were making a long trip I would consider shipping my 
tandem with them and not worrying about schlepping to the airport or 
worrying about transfers and damage.  They also sell what look like good 
reusable cardboard boxes.

Michael

On Thursday, January 2, 2014 1:10:02 PM UTC-5, dailyrandonneur wrote:

 I've traveled with singles and tandems, both full size and SS. Every 
 airline is different as another responder mentioned, and they change their 
 policies from time to time, so nothing is completely static. 

 One relative constant has been allowable size for checked luggage, 62 
 linear inches. Outside that dimension you typically pay oversize fees even 
 if you don't exceed the maxiumum weight limit. 

 For the occasional trip, there is no doubt that paying the oversize fee 
 and dragging around a full-size bike box is cheaper. I liked the Crateworks 
 corrugated plastic box, it is lighter than a hard case but tougher than 
 cardboard, folds up for storage and can be re-used. 

 After a few trips, however, you could end up pay as much in fees as buying 
 couplers and the SS case. The advantages of SS, in terms of reduced 
 packing hassle and ease of movement during your trip, are of value to me 
 even if I never fully pay off through travel. This is especially true with 
 a tandem, where the trouble of lugging a huge box and paying big fees at 
 the counter isn't my idea of fun travel. 

 If you know you are going to travel with a frameset and are getting it 
 repainted anyway, it's the right time to consider couplers. I recommend 
 them. 

 Ed
 Washington, DC



 On Thursday, January 2, 2014 11:16:04 AM UTC-5, Kieran J wrote:

 Hey Y'alls,
  
 I'm starting to think about air travel with a bike, with the first 
 possible destination of the Bay Area this upcoming summer (hoping to 
 repatriate the Ram Dawg, at least for a visit).
  
 Do any of you have experience with bike boxes or bike bags, on an 
 airline? TSC/ATA cases, fabric bags, cardboard bike boxes even?
  
 At first, I entertained the idea of installing SS couplers on the Ram 
 (it needs new paint anyways) but together, the retrofit would cost large 
 $$. So now I'm thinking about just flying with it, as is. The Ram is a 
 66cm, so finding a box that would accommodate its sprawl would be one of 
 the chief concerns. 
  
 Any good experiences? Things to avoid? Anything to report with 
 various airlines' policies and costs, as well?
  
 Thanks!
  
 Kieran in Toronto



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Re: [RBW] Re: Bike Travel - Share your thoughts

2014-01-02 Thread Christopher Chen
Hey don't forget: If you're staying in the Continental US, you can SHIP
your bike via Amtrak, even if you're not taking the train.

cc


On Thu, Jan 2, 2014 at 2:08 PM, Michael Hechmer mhech...@gmail.com wrote:

 We ordered our tandem from Bilenkey with SS couplers and haven't
 regretted it.  He's the low cost option for couplers.

 Since I already had two cases I opted for couplers when I repainted my
 Trek(62cm)  converted it to 650b.  Learning to pack takes some practice
 but the travel is hassle free.

 I looked at all the crate options for a long time and decided against, but
 in the process learned about shipbikes.com.   I used them to ship my
 frame to Bilenky and found it to be much cheaper than any other
 alternative, and really easy too.  If I were making a long trip I would
 consider shipping my tandem with them and not worrying about schlepping to
 the airport or worrying about transfers and damage.  They also sell what
 look like good reusable cardboard boxes.

 Michael


 On Thursday, January 2, 2014 1:10:02 PM UTC-5, dailyrandonneur wrote:

 I've traveled with singles and tandems, both full size and SS. Every
 airline is different as another responder mentioned, and they change their
 policies from time to time, so nothing is completely static.

 One relative constant has been allowable size for checked luggage, 62
 linear inches. Outside that dimension you typically pay oversize fees even
 if you don't exceed the maxiumum weight limit.

 For the occasional trip, there is no doubt that paying the oversize fee
 and dragging around a full-size bike box is cheaper. I liked the Crateworks
 corrugated plastic box, it is lighter than a hard case but tougher than
 cardboard, folds up for storage and can be re-used.

 After a few trips, however, you could end up pay as much in fees as
 buying couplers and the SS case. The advantages of SS, in terms of
 reduced packing hassle and ease of movement during your trip, are of value
 to me even if I never fully pay off through travel. This is especially true
 with a tandem, where the trouble of lugging a huge box and paying big fees
 at the counter isn't my idea of fun travel.

 If you know you are going to travel with a frameset and are getting it
 repainted anyway, it's the right time to consider couplers. I recommend
 them.

 Ed
 Washington, DC



 On Thursday, January 2, 2014 11:16:04 AM UTC-5, Kieran J wrote:

 Hey Y'alls,

 I'm starting to think about air travel with a bike, with the first
 possible destination of the Bay Area this upcoming summer (hoping to
 repatriate the Ram Dawg, at least for a visit).

 Do any of you have experience with bike boxes or bike bags, on an
 airline? TSC/ATA cases, fabric bags, cardboard bike boxes even?

 At first, I entertained the idea of installing SS couplers on the Ram
 (it needs new paint anyways) but together, the retrofit would cost large
 $$. So now I'm thinking about just flying with it, as is. The Ram is a
 66cm, so finding a box that would accommodate its sprawl would be one of
 the chief concerns.

 Any good experiences? Things to avoid? Anything to report with
 various airlines' policies and costs, as well?

 Thanks!

 Kieran in Toronto

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Re: [RBW] How cold was your first day ride?

2014-01-02 Thread Steven Frederick
Too busy to ride on the 1st but got out today on the fat bike.  10 degrees
with a windchill of -8.  Just rode around the pathways and green space
north of my house--played around on the sledding hill, and bounced over
logs and through snow drifts.  Fun, but four miles was enough...

Steve Frederick, East Lansing, MI


On Wed, Jan 1, 2014 at 11:38 AM, Bill Fulford bill.fulfor...@gmail.comwrote:

 Kennebunk Maine, 19 degrees, felt like 4. Baby it's cold out there. Rode
 the Hunqapillar and enjoyed the ride.

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Re: [RBW] Tire Width and Performance

2014-01-02 Thread Michael Hechmer
For me, climbing is the real difference.  There may or may not be a 
significant (whatever that may be) difference in accelerating a 23mm tire 
vs a well made 38 (e.g pari moto) and there certainly is not a difference 
at cruising speeds; but on a long climb where every turn of the pedal is a 
form of acceleration, it is hard to believe that  a 270 gram tire isn't 
going to feel better than a 540 gram tire.

Joy and liveliness both both exist in the imaginative realm - not readily 
subject to mathematical measurement.

Michael
BTW, still 10 below here.

On Thursday, January 2, 2014 9:34:33 AM UTC-5, Steve Palincsar wrote:

 On 01/02/2014 09:21 AM, Jan Heine wrote: 
  
  If anything, it may help persuade those we meet on our rides, who look 
  at our bikes and are intrigued by the idea of a more comfortable bike 
  with wider tires, but are afraid they won't be able to keep up with 
  their friends if they add 5 or 10 mm to their tire width. 

 Or even 2mm (going from 23mm to 25). 

 And then there are the ones who say of someone's 25 lb bike that riding 
 it must be quite a workout -- even when the ride in question has less 
 than 2000' of climbing for 50 miles, with no climbs greater than 10% 
 grade and 120' elevation change. 




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Re: [RBW] Tire Width and Performance

2014-01-02 Thread Christopher Chen
It's hard to say, Michael: You can't climb a fire road in 23mm tires no
matter how quickly you accelerate. :)


On Thu, Jan 2, 2014 at 2:20 PM, Michael Hechmer mhech...@gmail.com wrote:

 For me, climbing is the real difference.  There may or may not be a
 significant (whatever that may be) difference in accelerating a 23mm tire
 vs a well made 38 (e.g pari moto) and there certainly is not a difference
 at cruising speeds; but on a long climb where every turn of the pedal is a
 form of acceleration, it is hard to believe that  a 270 gram tire isn't
 going to feel better than a 540 gram tire.

 Joy and liveliness both both exist in the imaginative realm - not readily
 subject to mathematical measurement.

 Michael
 BTW, still 10 below here.


 On Thursday, January 2, 2014 9:34:33 AM UTC-5, Steve Palincsar wrote:

 On 01/02/2014 09:21 AM, Jan Heine wrote:
 
  If anything, it may help persuade those we meet on our rides, who look
  at our bikes and are intrigued by the idea of a more comfortable bike
  with wider tires, but are afraid they won't be able to keep up with
  their friends if they add 5 or 10 mm to their tire width.

 Or even 2mm (going from 23mm to 25).

 And then there are the ones who say of someone's 25 lb bike that riding
 it must be quite a workout -- even when the ride in question has less
 than 2000' of climbing for 50 miles, with no climbs greater than 10%
 grade and 120' elevation change.


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Re: [RBW] Tire Width and Performance

2014-01-02 Thread Steve Palincsar

On 01/02/2014 05:20 PM, Michael Hechmer wrote:
For me, climbing is the real difference.  There may or may not be a 
significant (whatever that may be) difference in accelerating a 23mm 
tire vs a well made 38 (e.g pari moto) and there certainly is not a 
difference at cruising speeds; but on a long climb where every turn of 
the pedal is a form of acceleration, it is hard to believe that  a 270 
gram tire isn't going to feel better than a 540 gram tire.


Really?  If you are maintaining a constant speed (i.e., velocity) then 
the rate of change of the velocity (which is the definition of 
accelleration) must be zero, right?  I don't see any measure of slope in 
the equation or the definition.


I think the real questions here are: can you actually feel a 1 lb 
difference, and does a 1 lb difference in weight make a measurable 
difference in climbing performance.  A rough way to test this would be 
to do the ride with, and without, a full water bottle.  Now this may be 
just that I make a poor princess, not being able to notice the pea and 
all, but I've never felt the bike to ride any different when I have full 
vs empty water bottles, and that's considerably more than a 1 lb weight 
difference; and I suspect that there's enough natural variation in my 
power level that adding or removing 1 lb would be unnoticeable among the 
random fluctuation.


But then, perhaps my proprioception isn't any better than my 
pea-detecting skills, and other more refined, better-bred and highly 
tuned observers might notice things that I do not...






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Re: [RBW] Re: Albas Thumbies setup

2014-01-02 Thread Bill Lindsay
I'm doing an Alba cockpit on my father's Windsor.  His bike came stock with 
the oldschool Suntour Barcons, so I'm going to re-use them, and those can 
only be used as barcons.  I have thumbie bases and a bunch of friction DT 
shifters to play with if I decide I don't like the barcons.  This thread 
showed several cute configurations, so thanks to everyone for that.  

One curiously ironic bit is that I'm a big fan of semi-recent Shimano 
reverse pull rear derailers.  Pull the cable means higher gear on both the 
left and the right shifter.  I have that set up on two bikes.  My Pop's 
Windsor, however, has a normal-pull Suntour rear derailer and a REVERSE 
pull Suntour front derailer!  So, on my Pop's bike, pull the cable means a 
lower gear on both shifters.  Haha.  I'll chuckle about it every time I get 
on.  Promise.  Maybe I should swap the left and right shifters to make the 
reversal complete.  :)

On Sunday, December 29, 2013 1:31:16 PM UTC-8, Michael Hechmer wrote:

 Thanks Shoji.  That looks like it would work well pushing down with the 
 thumb but be awkward when pulling up.  No?

 Michael

 On Sunday, December 29, 2013 3:32:27 PM UTC-5, Shoji Takahashi wrote:

 Did you or Pat consider mounting the thumbies so that the shifters are on 
 the inside of the bar? Looks like a few Riv employees have their bikes set 
 up that way. You can see it on the Appaloosa for sale: 
 http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/wsf-080.htm 



 On Sunday, December 29, 2013 1:49:21 PM UTC-5, Michael Hechmer wrote:

 OP here.  Well this has gone pretty far afield!  I gather no one has 
 experience with the Microshift BE's since no one offered any advice.

 I'm mostly a DT guy with BE's on the tandem so have no experience with 
 thumbies.  

 Here's what Pat thinks she wants.
 https://www.icloud.com/photostream/#A2GtnIORGsrsPn

 It seems to me that as long as the shifter is a bit forward of the brake 
 lever it ought to work fine.  But no one  on the list offered it up as 
 their choice.

 Michael






 On Saturday, December 28, 2013 1:10:52 PM UTC-5, Montclair BobbyB wrote:

 Note to self:  Offer Garth $25 apiece for his stash of shifters... :)



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Re: [RBW] Tire Width and Performance

2014-01-02 Thread sameness
The biggest factor in tire performance for me *is* me. If I'm feeling good 
and well rested and it's a beautiful day, I'm fast on $5 worth of swap meet 
rubber. If I'm grinding out the drudgery after my third flat in the rain, 
no amount of supple and plush can ever feel fast enough.

Jeff Hagedorn
Warragul, VIC Australia

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[RBW] Re: Tire Width and Performance

2014-01-02 Thread Jan Heine
Some interesting thoughts here. A few added thoughts:

*Contact patch:* We've been thinking about this. We are lucky today to have 
numerous tires that have the same casing, so at least we can do a 
controlled experiment. It is good to be able to explain the data, but it's 
important to note that the data shows that 25 mm tires are faster than 23 
mm. No matter how we explain it (contact patch shape, lower suspension 
losses, better aerodynamics, whatever), the results won't change.

*Light wheels and acceleration/climbing:* The math assumes a constant power 
output, but we know riders have anything but a constant power output. We 
pedal at 60-120 rpm, and within each stroke, we have a very distinct power 
phase. Does this change the equation? For frame stiffness, it certainly 
does. With constant power, frame stiffness wouldn't matter at all, and 
planing would not exist. I am not saying that lighter wheels climb better 
(many of my best times on mountain passes have been on 650B x 42 mm tires), 
but I would like to caution that the simple math may not be the entire 
story.

Jan Heine
Editor
Bicycle Quarterly
www.bikequarterly.com

Follow our blog at http://janheine.wordpress.com/

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Re: [RBW] Re: Albas Thumbies setup

2014-01-02 Thread Steve Palincsar

On 01/02/2014 05:54 PM, Bill Lindsay wrote:


One curiously ironic bit is that I'm a big fan of semi-recent Shimano 
reverse pull rear derailers.  Pull the cable means higher gear on both 
the left and the right shifter.  I have that set up on two bikes.  My 
Pop's Windsor, however, has a normal-pull Suntour rear derailer and a 
REVERSE pull Suntour front derailer!  So, on my Pop's bike, pull the 
cable means a lower gear on both shifters.  Haha.  I'll chuckle about 
it every time I get on.  Promise.  Maybe I should swap the left and 
right shifters to make the reversal complete.  :)


You won't be chuckling when your now-confused reflexes cause you to do 
the exactly wrong thing when you're not paying attention.  I used to be 
a big fan of the reverse pull SunTour front derailleurs, used them for 
20 years on all my bikes.  Then, 23 years ago I switched. Every so often 
even now I still go the wrong way and end up going to the granny when I 
meant to go to the big ring.   And you're destined for that same sort of 
error, and for the same reason: just as the SunTour backwards fronts 
went out of production and eventually failed in service, Shimano has, I 
understand, discontinued their ass-backwards MTB rear derailleurs.  So 
down the road, when those reflexes have been thoroughly implanted, you 
inevitably will be forced to change back again.


You are doomed. :-)

Imagine how it used to be before the location of the brake and gas 
pedals became standardized...  Oops just doesn't begin to cover it.





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Re: [RBW] Re: Albas Thumbies setup

2014-01-02 Thread Bill Lindsay
You are doomed. :-) 

It was you who guaranteed I was doomed the last time I talked up my reverse 
pull Shimano derailers.  At least this time you included a smiley.  Wanna 
guess how many spare rear derailers I have?  It's a big number.  I just 
bought three more a couple weeks back on blowout from an online retailer, 
and I thought of you (take THIS, Steve!).  I'm thinking my current stock 
will probably outlive me.  ;-)


On Thursday, January 2, 2014 3:33:20 PM UTC-8, Steve Palincsar wrote:

 On 01/02/2014 05:54 PM, Bill Lindsay wrote: 
  
  One curiously ironic bit is that I'm a big fan of semi-recent Shimano 
  reverse pull rear derailers.  Pull the cable means higher gear on both 
  the left and the right shifter.  I have that set up on two bikes.  My 
  Pop's Windsor, however, has a normal-pull Suntour rear derailer and a 
  REVERSE pull Suntour front derailer!  So, on my Pop's bike, pull the 
  cable means a lower gear on both shifters.  Haha.  I'll chuckle about 
  it every time I get on.  Promise.  Maybe I should swap the left and 
  right shifters to make the reversal complete.  :) 

 You won't be chuckling when your now-confused reflexes cause you to do 
 the exactly wrong thing when you're not paying attention.  I used to be 
 a big fan of the reverse pull SunTour front derailleurs, used them for 
 20 years on all my bikes.  Then, 23 years ago I switched. Every so often 
 even now I still go the wrong way and end up going to the granny when I 
 meant to go to the big ring.   And you're destined for that same sort of 
 error, and for the same reason: just as the SunTour backwards fronts 
 went out of production and eventually failed in service, Shimano has, I 
 understand, discontinued their ass-backwards MTB rear derailleurs.  So 
 down the road, when those reflexes have been thoroughly implanted, you 
 inevitably will be forced to change back again. 

 You are doomed. :-) 

 Imagine how it used to be before the location of the brake and gas 
 pedals became standardized...  Oops just doesn't begin to cover it. 






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Re: [RBW] Tire Width and Performance

2014-01-02 Thread Patrick Moore
I have to say that, whether it be psychological or physical, I've
consistently* found that my sub 18 lb gofast with very light wheels seems
to let me turn the cranks more easily in a higher gear (75) on the same
hills where the same cadence feels slower or seems to require more effort
in a lower gear (67 to 70) on bikes with heavier wheels, including,
oddly, the Ram with Parigi Roubaix. The tires on the have been 650C 200
gram Grand Prixs and, recently, slighly sub 200 gram 23 mm Pro Race 3s.
Smooth roads.

*Consistently, ie over the almost 14 years I've owned the gofast, and
measured against many different bikes. So much has this been so that, on
the many, many times I've thought to convert the gofast to something more
useful -- wider tires, rack, lights -- it takes only one more hilly ride
to remind me that I love the way this bike feels on hills.

(By the way, I have no desire to take this bike on dirt roads. I have three
other bikes that can to varying degrees handle dirt roads.)

It may well be only a feeling, but it is a very persistent and consistent
feeling.


On Thu, Jan 2, 2014 at 3:20 PM, Michael Hechmer mhech...@gmail.com wrote:

 For me, climbing is the real difference.  There may or may not be a
 significant (whatever that may be) difference in accelerating a 23mm tire
 vs a well made 38 (e.g pari moto) and there certainly is not a difference
 at cruising speeds; but on a long climb where every turn of the pedal is a
 form of acceleration, it is hard to believe that  a 270 gram tire isn't
 going to feel better than a 540 gram tire.

 Joy and liveliness both both exist in the imaginative realm - not readily
 subject to mathematical measurement.

 Michael
 BTW, still 10 below here.


 On Thursday, January 2, 2014 9:34:33 AM UTC-5, Steve Palincsar wrote:

 On 01/02/2014 09:21 AM, Jan Heine wrote:
 
  If anything, it may help persuade those we meet on our rides, who look
  at our bikes and are intrigued by the idea of a more comfortable bike
  with wider tires, but are afraid they won't be able to keep up with
  their friends if they add 5 or 10 mm to their tire width.

 Or even 2mm (going from 23mm to 25).

 And then there are the ones who say of someone's 25 lb bike that riding
 it must be quite a workout -- even when the ride in question has less
 than 2000' of climbing for 50 miles, with no climbs greater than 10%
 grade and 120' elevation change.


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Re: [RBW] Tire Width and Performance

2014-01-02 Thread Patrick Moore
Sure you can, though I personally don't care to do so. I know several
people, including my brother, who take racing bikes with 23 mm tires on
fire roads.


On Thu, Jan 2, 2014 at 3:27 PM, Christopher Chen cc...@nougat.org wrote:

 It's hard to say, Michael: You can't climb a fire road in 23mm tires no
 matter how quickly you accelerate. :)


 On Thu, Jan 2, 2014 at 2:20 PM, Michael Hechmer mhech...@gmail.comwrote:

 For me, climbing is the real difference.  There may or may not be a
 significant (whatever that may be) difference in accelerating a 23mm tire
 vs a well made 38 (e.g pari moto) and there certainly is not a difference
 at cruising speeds; but on a long climb where every turn of the pedal is a
 form of acceleration, it is hard to believe that  a 270 gram tire isn't
 going to feel better than a 540 gram tire.

 Joy and liveliness both both exist in the imaginative realm - not readily
 subject to mathematical measurement.

 Michael
 BTW, still 10 below here.


 On Thursday, January 2, 2014 9:34:33 AM UTC-5, Steve Palincsar wrote:

 On 01/02/2014 09:21 AM, Jan Heine wrote:
 
  If anything, it may help persuade those we meet on our rides, who look
  at our bikes and are intrigued by the idea of a more comfortable bike
  with wider tires, but are afraid they won't be able to keep up with
  their friends if they add 5 or 10 mm to their tire width.

 Or even 2mm (going from 23mm to 25).

 And then there are the ones who say of someone's 25 lb bike that riding
 it must be quite a workout -- even when the ride in question has less
 than 2000' of climbing for 50 miles, with no climbs greater than 10%
 grade and 120' elevation change.


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[RBW] Re: How cold was your first day ride?

2014-01-02 Thread grant
My Foy-riding 25-year old told me she chased a bus for eight blocks in 
minus ten weather before catching it for a ride the rest of the way.

On Wednesday, January 1, 2014 8:38:33 AM UTC-8, Bill Fulford wrote:

 Kennebunk Maine, 19 degrees, felt like 4. Baby it's cold out there. Rode 
 the Hunqapillar and enjoyed the ride.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Albas Thumbies setup

2014-01-02 Thread Steve Palincsar

On 01/02/2014 06:45 PM, Bill Lindsay wrote:

You are doomed. :-) 


She left the web, she left the loom,
She made three paces thro' the room,
She saw the water-lily bloom,
She saw the helmet and the plume,
   She look'd down to Camelot.
Out flew the web and floated wide;
The mirror crack'd from side to side;
The curse is come upon me, cried
   The Lady of Shalott.



It was you who guaranteed I was doomed the last time I talked up my 
reverse pull Shimano derailers.


And that's a better guarantee than you'll get with most any other bike 
parts these days!


At least this time you included a smiley.  Wanna guess how many spare 
rear derailers I have?  It's a big number.  I just bought three more a 
couple weeks back on blowout from an online retailer, and I thought of 
you (take THIS, Steve!).  I'm thinking my current stock will probably 
outlive me.  ;-)




I'm starting to wonder if I shouldn't lay in a stock of 9 speed bar end 
shifters.



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Re: [RBW] Tire Width and Performance

2014-01-02 Thread Steve Palincsar

On 01/02/2014 06:55 PM, Patrick Moore wrote:
Sure you can, though I personally don't care to do so. I know several 
people, including my brother, who take racing bikes with 23 mm tires 
on fire roads.


People have successfully completed the Deerfield Dirt Road Randonnee on 
23mm tires.



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Re: [RBW] Re: Tire Width and Performance

2014-01-02 Thread Patrick Moore
This is interesting. I climb as much standing as sitting, and always at low
rpm, high torque cadences. And it is precisely when I stand that the gofast
feels fastest and liveliest. Again, this is consistent over 10+ years.

Consistently too, on certain types of rides, for example, often when doing
mildly rolling, typical suburban route with many stops and starts and no
need to stand except for startups, the gofast often feels slower than other
bikes.

I do plan to replace the Michelin Pro Race 3 23s with 25s as soon as I get
the cash. But the 23s are very supple, as were the old 559X1 Turbos.


On Thu, Jan 2, 2014 at 4:26 PM, Jan Heine hein...@earthlink.net wrote:

 Some interesting thoughts here. A few added thoughts:

 *Light wheels and acceleration/climbing:* The math assumes a constant
 power output, but we know riders have anything but a constant power output.
 We pedal at 60-120 rpm, and within each stroke, we have a very distinct
 power phase. Does this change the equation? For frame stiffness, it
 certainly does. With constant power, frame stiffness wouldn't matter at
 all, and planing would not exist. I am not saying that lighter wheels
 climb better (many of my best times on mountain passes have been on 650B x
 42 mm tires), but I would like to caution that the simple math may not be
 the entire story.


 Ja

-- 
Burque (NM)

Resumes that get interviews:
http://www.resumespecialties.com/

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Re: [RBW] Tire Width and Performance

2014-01-02 Thread Patrick Moore
My brother is well north of 200 lb, too -- not fat, but 6'2 and muscular
and bigger in build than I. He has very, very, *very* good bike handling
skills -- I've tried keeping up with him on fast, twisting, very bumpy,
gravel downhills, mountain bikes with the usual knobbies -- and doubtless
that helps him avoid destroying tires and rims.


On Thu, Jan 2, 2014 at 5:02 PM, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:

 On 01/02/2014 06:55 PM, Patrick Moore wrote:

 Sure you can, though I personally don't care to do so. I know several
 people, including my brother, who take racing bikes with 23 mm tires on
 fire roads.


 People have successfully completed the Deerfield Dirt Road Randonnee on
 23mm tires.



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Re: [RBW] Re: How cold was your first day ride?

2014-01-02 Thread Andrew Letton
Clearly, you and Mary raised her right!
cheers,
Andrew




 From: grant grant...@gmail.com
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
Sent: Thursday, January 2, 2014 3:57 PM
Subject: [RBW] Re: How cold was your first day ride?
 


My Foy-riding 25-year old told me she chased a bus for eight blocks in minus 
ten weather before catching it for a ride the rest of the way.

On Wednesday, January 1, 2014 8:38:33 AM UTC-8, Bill Fulford wrote:
Kennebunk Maine, 19 degrees, felt like 4. Baby it's cold out there. Rode the 
Hunqapillar and enjoyed the ride.
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Re: [RBW] Re: Albas Thumbies setup

2014-01-02 Thread Bill Lindsay
That's the same Tennyson poem you quoted the last time, also.  You are 
consistent.  

I've got a pile of 9-speed chains, and I'm in the process of storing up 
9-speed cassettes.  Whenever I need to make a minimum for free shipping I 
add a cassette.  I've got one bike with Dura Ace 10 speed ft der, r der, 
and DT shifters.  Shimano barely waved at 10 before steaming on to 11, so I 
bought a spare R der, ft der and DT shifters for that bike.  That 
investment kind of stung.   

On Thursday, January 2, 2014 4:00:06 PM UTC-8, Steve Palincsar wrote:

 On 01/02/2014 06:45 PM, Bill Lindsay wrote: 
  You are doomed. :-)  

 She left the web, she left the loom, 
 She made three paces thro' the room, 
 She saw the water-lily bloom, 
 She saw the helmet and the plume, 
 She look'd down to Camelot. 
 Out flew the web and floated wide; 
 The mirror crack'd from side to side; 
 The curse is come upon me, cried 
 The Lady of Shalott. 

  
  It was you who guaranteed I was doomed the last time I talked up my 
  reverse pull Shimano derailers. 

 And that's a better guarantee than you'll get with most any other bike 
 parts these days! 

  At least this time you included a smiley.  Wanna guess how many spare 
  rear derailers I have?  It's a big number.  I just bought three more a 
  couple weeks back on blowout from an online retailer, and I thought of 
  you (take THIS, Steve!).  I'm thinking my current stock will probably 
  outlive me.  ;-) 
  

 I'm starting to wonder if I shouldn't lay in a stock of 9 speed bar end 
 shifters. 




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Re: [RBW] Re: Tire Width and Performance

2014-01-02 Thread Jim Bronson
I love, love,love the ProRace3's on my go-fast bike!  I just wish I had
room under the front fork for a 25.  Even the 23 barely fits.  it's crazy.
 And it's a steel fork, go figure.  Whoever designed this fork was clearly
not very forward thinking.  I was looking at replacement forks online with
a proper fork crown and clearance for 28s with fenders, or 32s without.

Reason I mention the 28 is that the ProRace 2/3/4 25mm tires often measure
closer to 28mm installed.  On a recent thread on a tandem forum one owner
showed a digital caliper measurement of 27.9mm on a 25mm Pro4 Endurance.


On Thu, Jan 2, 2014 at 6:02 PM, Patrick Moore bertin...@gmail.com wrote:

 This is interesting. I climb as much standing as sitting, and always at
 low rpm, high torque cadences. And it is precisely when I stand that the
 gofast feels fastest and liveliest. Again, this is consistent over 10+
 years.

 Consistently too, on certain types of rides, for example, often when doing
 mildly rolling, typical suburban route with many stops and starts and no
 need to stand except for startups, the gofast often feels slower than other
 bikes.

 I do plan to replace the Michelin Pro Race 3 23s with 25s as soon as I get
 the cash. But the 23s are very supple, as were the old 559X1 Turbos.


  On Thu, Jan 2, 2014 at 4:26 PM, Jan Heine hein...@earthlink.net wrote:

 Some interesting thoughts here. A few added thoughts:

 *Light wheels and acceleration/climbing:* The math assumes a constant
 power output, but we know riders have anything but a constant power output.
 We pedal at 60-120 rpm, and within each stroke, we have a very distinct
 power phase. Does this change the equation? For frame stiffness, it
 certainly does. With constant power, frame stiffness wouldn't matter at
 all, and planing would not exist. I am not saying that lighter wheels
 climb better (many of my best times on mountain passes have been on 650B x
 42 mm tires), but I would like to caution that the simple math may not be
 the entire story.


 Ja

 --
 Burque (NM)

 Resumes that get interviews:
 http://www.resumespecialties.com/

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Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down!

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[RBW] Quckbeam For Sale

2014-01-02 Thread Andy Speier
*Rivendell Quickbeam Frame For Sale*
*54 cm (center to top)*
This is a great frame but I just don't ride the bike much and need space. I 
am selling the frame  fork with a Tange headset, Sugino cup.cone BB,  27.2 
seat post and a pr of Deore XT canti brake calipers.

*$1100. including shipping anywhere in the lower 48.*

*Andy *
*Seattle WA*
*206-799-4139*
*a...@peakrescue.org a...@peakrescue.org*

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[RBW] Re: Quckbeam For Sale

2014-01-02 Thread Bill Lindsay
Please grow it to a 58.  Please!  :-)

and when you do, grow it in Silver.  kthx!

On Thursday, January 2, 2014 4:33:21 PM UTC-8, Andy Speier wrote:

 *Rivendell Quickbeam Frame For Sale*
 *54 cm (center to top)*
 This is a great frame but I just don't ride the bike much and need space. 
 I am selling the frame  fork with a Tange headset, Sugino cup.cone BB, 
  27.2 seat post and a pr of Deore XT canti brake calipers.

 *$1100. including shipping anywhere in the lower 48.*

 *Andy *
 *Seattle WA*
 *206-799-4139*
 *an...@peakrescue.org javascript:*


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Re: [RBW] Bike Travel - Share your thoughts

2014-01-02 Thread Jim Bronson
Yes, I could have definitely loosened the cables at the brakes and
derailers, but I was very inexperienced at bike maintenance at that point
in time.  I could change tires pretty well and remove my chain and cassette
to clean and re-lube, but that was about it.  Derailers, brakes and cables
were black magic to me at that point in time.

I really wasn't sure where I would go once I got to France if it didn't go
back together and shift and brake well.  I was going for PBP2007 and not
sure of what to expect once I got there.  In retrospect, there are quite a
few bike shops in France and I'm sure I could have found help had I needed
it.

I did end up removing the rear derailer.  I wrapped pipe insulation around
it and ran tape on top of that, then taped the protective cocoon to the
seat stay.  That worked well, the derailer went right back on when I got to
France and shifting was as expected.

Unfortunately, when I was over there, something broke that I didn't even
mess with.  The ratchets on my DT Swiss hub failed about 10KM from the
first control.  I didn't have a spare set with me.  I managed to get
another Campy compatible rear wheel and tweaked that one too when it came
out of the dropouts when I was pulling away from a stop.  I wobbled on
through the rain and hills until 412.5 KM at Illyfaut, France where I said
to myself this is not fun and caught a ride to Pontivy and ultimately the
train back to Paris.

Quitting PBP is one of the major regrets of my life and one that I am
preparing to go back and rectify in 2015.

Anyway...if you are comfortable uninstalling and reinstalling cables and
adjusting derailers and brakes, it should be easy for you.

The case I used was a hard shell case, I don't remember the name of it now
though, sorry.  It's been a few years ;)


On Thu, Jan 2, 2014 at 10:59 AM, Kieran J kjo...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hey Jim, thanks for your thoughts. Could you not have just loosened the
 cables at the brakes and the derailleurs? Getting the handlebars off will
 definitely be necessary, I think.

 Air Canada appears to charge $50 each way on flights, which is not too
 bad. The weight and dimensions limits are also reasonable, so it might be
 doable, as long as we fly with them.
 Do you happen to know what box you used? Was it a plastic type hard case
 jobby?
 KJ


 On Thursday, January 2, 2014 11:50:22 AM UTC-5, Jim Bronson wrote:

 The handlebars were a problem on the 68cm custom that I own, traveling to
 France and using a hard shell plastic case that I borrowed. There was not
 enough slack in the shifter and brake cables to remove the threaded stem
 from the steerer tube.  But the bike seemingly would not fit in the box
 with the handlebars and stem attached to the frame.  And the fact that
 threaded quills only have one bolt for loosening and tightening didn't
 help; this is one way that threadless is superior.

 I finally finagled the handlebars in there somehow and used extra straps
 to keep the thing shut.  Knowing what I know now, I would have just removed
 the barend shifters and disconnected the brake cables.  But oh well, youth
 and inexperience, back in 2007 ;)

 On the way back to the US, I got a pair of pliers and cut the cables,
 that made it a lot easier to get the thing in the box.  Obviously, I had to
 have new cables installed before I could ride it again.  Another thing I
 didn't know how to do in 2007...

 If I knew I was going to ship my bike often, I would get the quick
 disconnect cables that I have seen on some bikes.  I didn't need an SS to
 make my huge frame and fork fit in a bike box and I don't suspect most
 other people do, either.  If you're not going to be traveling with your
 bike much, I think just paying the oversize baggage fee makes more sense.
  It was $110 each way in 2007, little bit of an ouchy but it's much less
 than installing couplers.

 I would probably only get SS couplers if I was building a custom tandem,
 which in my case would be probably near impossible to get on an airplane.

 Timely question.  I need to start thinking about how to get my bike to
 France in 2015 again (hopefully, anyway).

 -Jim


 On Thu, Jan 2, 2014 at 10:16 AM, Kieran J kjo...@gmail.com wrote:

  Hey Y'alls,

 I'm starting to think about air travel with a bike, with the first
 possible destination of the Bay Area this upcoming summer (hoping to
 repatriate the Ram Dawg, at least for a visit).

 Do any of you have experience with bike boxes or bike bags, on an
 airline? TSC/ATA cases, fabric bags, cardboard bike boxes even?

 At first, I entertained the idea of installing SS couplers on the Ram
 (it needs new paint anyways) but together, the retrofit would cost large
 $$. So now I'm thinking about just flying with it, as is. The Ram is a
 66cm, so finding a box that would accommodate its sprawl would be one of
 the chief concerns.

 Any good experiences? Things to avoid? Anything to report with
 various airlines' policies and costs, as well?

 Thanks!

 Kieran in 

Re: [RBW] Tire Width and Performance

2014-01-02 Thread Ron Mc
where you really feel the difference - and it doesn't have to be 23mm to 
get a 300-g tire, nor is a 35mm tire necessarily 550g - what I said, where 
you really feel the difference is spinning up before you tackle that hill

On Thursday, January 2, 2014 4:20:03 PM UTC-6, Michael Hechmer wrote:

 For me, climbing is the real difference.  There may or may not be a 
 significant (whatever that may be) difference in accelerating a 23mm tire 
 vs a well made 38 (e.g pari moto) and there certainly is not a difference 
 at cruising speeds; but on a long climb where every turn of the pedal is a 
 form of acceleration, it is hard to believe that  a 270 gram tire isn't 
 going to feel better than a 540 gram tire.

 Joy and liveliness both both exist in the imaginative realm - not readily 
 subject to mathematical measurement.

 Michael
 BTW, still 10 below here.

 On Thursday, January 2, 2014 9:34:33 AM UTC-5, Steve Palincsar wrote:

 On 01/02/2014 09:21 AM, Jan Heine wrote: 
  
  If anything, it may help persuade those we meet on our rides, who look 
  at our bikes and are intrigued by the idea of a more comfortable bike 
  with wider tires, but are afraid they won't be able to keep up with 
  their friends if they add 5 or 10 mm to their tire width. 

 Or even 2mm (going from 23mm to 25). 

 And then there are the ones who say of someone's 25 lb bike that riding 
 it must be quite a workout -- even when the ride in question has less 
 than 2000' of climbing for 50 miles, with no climbs greater than 10% 
 grade and 120' elevation change. 




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Re: [RBW] Re: Bike Travel - Share your thoughts

2014-01-02 Thread Jim Bronson
I've put the bike back together in the Paris subway and in the Amtrak
station in Portland.  It really isn't that bad as long as you have a 4, 5
and 6mm allen wrenches handy.  It's more of a hassle to drag the bike box
around than it is to just put the bike back together.  (IMO).

I agree with you on the need for a disposable box for point-to-point trips.
 When I rode the Portland-Glacier 1000K brevet I left the car in Whitefish
and took the train overnight to Portland.  I wasn't confident that Amtrak
would have a big enough box for my bike so I had it packed by the LBS in a
makeshift box before I left home, which I then threw in the back of the car
for the trip from Austin to Whitefish.  I have friends in Portland and I
could have probably stored a box no problem but having a disposable box was
nice.  Once I put the bike back together, I left the remnants of the box by
the recycle bin.

As for the bike trip being only part of the vacation, I arranged for the
hotel at CDG we were staying the last night in France to store my bike box
after PBP until it was time to leave for home.  I can't guarantee that
every hotel will offer this kind of service but it's worth asking about.
 Storing the bike there lightened the load considerably for our tour of
Normandy and Brittany after PBP.

Jim


On Thu, Jan 2, 2014 at 3:12 PM, dougP dougpn...@cox.net wrote:

 You've thought of a couple of the unintended consequences of traveling
 with a bike.  Remember you need the box for the return trip.

 While it seems quite practical, putting together a bike at the airport
 after a long distance flight is nothing I would ever attempt.  I'm too
 dingy at that point to have much chance of doing it right, plus all the
 other assorted hassles of the airport.

 If you are doing a loop ride and flying back out of the same airport, use
 a cab or shuttle to get you  your bike to lodging.  They usually have
 large enough vehicles to carry the bike.  If you arrange it in advance, you
 can find a place to store the box while you are on your trip.

 If you are doing a point-to-point, it gets a bit tricky.  Here you'll want
 a disposable box (scrounged from your LBS) for the outbound leg and arrange
 with a bike shop at the end of your trip for a box for the return.
 Hopefully since your flying some distance it will be a big airport in a
 major city with bike shops.

 If you are flying in someplace, then renting a car to get out to the start
 of the bike portion, the parts of the bike (frame, wheels, etc) are easier
 to get in a rental car than the boxed bike.  Cars with conventional trunks
 don't hold much  are awkwardly shaped for large objects like bikes.  Vans
 are the answer but also expensive and in high demand during vacation season.

 What if the bike is only part of the trip?  Now you're in a pickle.  As
 agile as a bike may be when ridden, it's a huge anchor to drag around if
 you're not using it.  Solutions are renting a bike for the portion you need
 it (say, 1 week out of a 2-3 week vacation) or arranging to store your own
 bike some place convenient (and safe!).

 It's stuff like this that made SS couplers business.  I don't have one
 but have packed an SS equipped bike.  It's amazing but that 62 suitcase
 fills up fast.

 dougP


 On Thursday, January 2, 2014 10:29:44 AM UTC-8, Minh wrote:

 Just to tack onto this discussion, what do people do when they get to
 their destination?  Perfect world, unpack the bike and ride from the
 airport, or taxi to hotel then ride, but what if bike is only part of the
 trip?  How do you manage transporting by rental car?

 Would like to hear how people manage this in practical terms, i've always
 wanted to bring a bike but it seems like too much of a hassle.

 On Thursday, January 2, 2014 1:26:18 PM UTC-5, Kieran J wrote:

 I can certainly see how it would be more convenient to schlep around.
 But I am a little concerned about this size frame fitting into the SS box.
 I haven't done any extensive reading or first hand trying, but it looks
 like it might be a no-go.

 KJ


 On Thursday, January 2, 2014 1:10:02 PM UTC-5, dailyrandonneur wrote:

 I've traveled with singles and tandems, both full size and SS. Every
 airline is different as another responder mentioned, and they change their
 policies from time to time, so nothing is completely static.

 One relative constant has been allowable size for checked luggage, 62
 linear inches. Outside that dimension you typically pay oversize fees even
 if you don't exceed the maxiumum weight limit.

 For the occasional trip, there is no doubt that paying the oversize fee
 and dragging around a full-size bike box is cheaper. I liked the Crateworks
 corrugated plastic box, it is lighter than a hard case but tougher than
 cardboard, folds up for storage and can be re-used.

 After a few trips, however, you could end up pay as much in fees as
 buying couplers and the SS case. The advantages of SS, in terms of
 reduced packing hassle and ease of movement 

[RBW] SoCal 1414 Ride around San Deigo Bay

2014-01-02 Thread Curtis McKenzie
Hi,

To firm up the details.

Meeting Time:  Saturday January 4 at 9:00 am
Meeting Place:  The USS Recruit at Liberty Station San Diego (
http://www.ntclibertystation.com/directions.php#North)
Route:  Along the San Diego water front including the Silver Strand and a
Ferry ride ($4.50) after a stop at Coranado Brewing.

Mike you will be missed. Will get you next time.

Looking forward to seeing all of you.

Curtis

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[RBW] Carradice Barley mounting options for saddle without loops?

2014-01-02 Thread Jay in Tel Aviv
Carradice sells the quick release clamp seperately from the bagman support. For 
a Barley that could be perfect even without a rack.

http://www.carradice.co.uk/index.php?page_id=productunder=rangeproduct_id=87

I wouldn't bother strapping it to the seatpost either. I don't with my much 
larger Super C and it has never been an issue.

Bagman can be finicky. I've got them on 2 bikes and I. have had issues over the 
years. If I were starting over I would probably try SQR. Carradice is like Riv 
in terms of supporting their products. They have sent me free spares several 
times.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Tire Width and Performance

2014-01-02 Thread Patrick Moore
That's good to know; so at least one other person finds them fast. The 650C
23s are really skinny, though -- barely 22 mm on the 19 mm (outside) semi
aero rims.

The 23s are fine on smooth pavements, and our pavement isn't that bad, at
least where I ride, except for the huge expansion cracks due, I guess, to
large low-to-high temperature differentials. I have to be careful about
those.


On Thu, Jan 2, 2014 at 5:25 PM, Jim Bronson jim.bron...@gmail.com wrote:

 I love, love,love the ProRace3's on my go-fast bike!  I just wish I had
 room under the front fork for a 25.  Even the 23 barely fits.  it's crazy.
  And it's a steel fork, go figure.  Whoever designed this fork was clearly
 not very forward thinking.  I was looking at replacement forks online with
 a proper fork crown and clearance for 28s with fenders, or 32s without.

 Reason I mention the 28 is that the ProRace 2/3/4 25mm tires often measure
 closer to 28mm installed.  On a recent thread on a tandem forum one owner
 showed a digital caliper measurement of 27.9mm on a 25mm Pro4 Endurance.


 On Thu, Jan 2, 2014 at 6:02 PM, Patrick Moore bertin...@gmail.com wrote:

 This is interesting. I climb as much standing as sitting, and always at
 low rpm, high torque cadences. And it is precisely when I stand that the
 gofast feels fastest and liveliest. Again, this is consistent over 10+
 years.

 Consistently too, on certain types of rides, for example, often when
 doing mildly rolling, typical suburban route with many stops and starts and
 no need to stand except for startups, the gofast often feels slower than
 other bikes.

 I do plan to replace the Michelin Pro Race 3 23s with 25s as soon as I
 get the cash. But the 23s are very supple, as were the old 559X1 Turbos.


  On Thu, Jan 2, 2014 at 4:26 PM, Jan Heine hein...@earthlink.net wrote:

 Some interesting thoughts here. A few added thoughts:

 *Light wheels and acceleration/climbing:* The math assumes a constant
 power output, but we know riders have anything but a constant power output.
 We pedal at 60-120 rpm, and within each stroke, we have a very distinct
 power phase. Does this change the equation? For frame stiffness, it
 certainly does. With constant power, frame stiffness wouldn't matter at
 all, and planing would not exist. I am not saying that lighter wheels
 climb better (many of my best times on mountain passes have been on 650B x
 42 mm tires), but I would like to caution that the simple math may not be
 the entire story.


 Ja

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[RBW] Re: Fenders and chain stay clearance

2014-01-02 Thread Anton Tutter


On Thursday, January 2, 2014 8:48:43 AM UTC-5, Kevin wrote:

 Thanks guys.  I was sort of against cutting too.  I do like the heat gun 
 approach - I'll need to see if there's enough room between the tire.

 I guess just the fact that the fender sides contact the stays doesn't mean 
 it's wrong (or does it?).

 I think the snuggness probably decreases fender vibrations on the whole.


The dimpling method works well with aluminum fenders because they're 
malleable.  The heat gun approach may work well with the chromoplastics to 
dimple them, but I've never tried. I did try once to dimple a Bluemels 
plastic fender that way and permanently distorted the fender in a bad way. 
I'm gun shy about reshaping plastic now.

In cases where I have rubbing interference with the painted frame, I affix 
a small piece of clear vinyl tape onto the paint to act as a shim at the 
point of contact.  You can't tell they're there.  I got the idea from 
Yakima, who supply their roof rack fairings with little clear stick-on 
circles to mount on your roof where the little rubber feet rest.

Anton Tutter
Somerville, MA and Bloomville, NY


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[RBW] Re: Carradice Barley mounting options for saddle without loops?

2014-01-02 Thread Kellie Stapleton
Carradice sells loops for saddles without them. I used the SQR system from 
Carradice and really liked it. There's also the Bagman by Carradice others 
have mentioned. However you do need a minimum amount of seatpost showing to 
use the Bagman. 

On Thursday, January 2, 2014 9:02:43 AM UTC-8, Jim Bronson wrote:

 I looked at just installing some loops onto the saddle rails, Velo Orange 
 sells some for just this purpose.  However, the bottom attachment point 
 says to attach it to the seatpost.  That doesn't seem like it's going to 
 work very well.  I don't want any sort of interference with my legs while 
 pedaling, so getting it away from my backside is a bit of a priority.

 I was considering this setup.  It is quite ugly, but seems like it would 
 be effective:
 http://www.wiggle.com/carradice-bagman-2-sport-support-bag-mount-qr/

 Rivendell sells the R-14 rear rack, which seems like it would work fine 
 for the purpose, and looks pretty, but it costs more than twice as much.
 http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/r14.htm

 Any thoughts?

 I do have some regular old racks just lying around too. That might be a 
 cheaper fix.  Just have to dig through the boxes in the garage to find 
 one...

 Jim

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Re: [RBW] Tire Width and Performance

2014-01-02 Thread Anton Tutter
When you're climbing a steep grade, you're not maintaining a constant 
speed.  If you graphed your speed over time, with time on the x-axis, you'd 
see something resembling a sine wave.  But your speedometer may not 
register a change in speed because its averaging the speed over an 
integration interval of probably several seconds.  In this case I would 
agree that rotational weight can clearly be felt, much more than static 
weight.

Anton


On Thursday, January 2, 2014 5:45:13 PM UTC-5, Steve Palincsar wrote:


 Really?  If you are maintaining a constant speed (i.e., velocity) then 
 the rate of change of the velocity (which is the definition of 
 accelleration) must be zero, right?  I don't see any measure of slope in 
 the equation or the definition. 

 I think the real questions here are: can you actually feel a 1 lb 
 difference, and does a 1 lb difference in weight make a measurable 
 difference in climbing performance.  A rough way to test this would be 
 to do the ride with, and without, a full water bottle.  Now this may be 
 just that I make a poor princess, not being able to notice the pea and 
 all, but I've never felt the bike to ride any different when I have full 
 vs empty water bottles, and that's considerably more than a 1 lb weight 
 difference; and I suspect that there's enough natural variation in my 
 power level that adding or removing 1 lb would be unnoticeable among the 
 random fluctuation. 

 But then, perhaps my proprioception isn't any better than my 
 pea-detecting skills, and other more refined, better-bred and highly 
 tuned observers might notice things that I do not... 







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Re: Re: [RBW] Re: Albas Thumbies setup

2014-01-02 Thread Joan Oppel
I just HAVE to chime in: I have a reverse pull Shimano derailleur on my Bleriot BUT a standard pull Shimano derailleur on my Bike Friday. I switch between them by (literally) talking to myself about the change when I get on the bike. And I don't make wrong shifts on either bike. On the other hand, when I ride the Bleriot for a few rides and then switch to my bike with brifters, I do reach for the bar end shifters instead of the brifters, even with my hands on the hoods.So - TAKE THAT :)Joan(This has been explained to SP previously)On 01/02/14, Bill Lindsaytapebu...@gmail.com wrote:You are doomed. :-)It was you who guaranteed I was doomed the last time I talked up my reverse pull Shimano derailers. At least this time you included a smiley. Wanna guess how many spare rear derailers I have? It's a big number. I just bought three more a couple weeks back on blowout from an online retailer, and I thought of you (take THIS, Steve!). I'm thinking my current stock will probably outlive me. ;-)On Thursday, January 2, 2014 3:33:20 PM UTC-8, Steve Palincsar wrote:On 01/02/2014 05:54 PM, Bill Lindsay wrote: One curiously ironic bit is that I'm a big fan of semi-recent Shimano  reverse pull rear derailers. Pull the cable means higher gear on both  the left and the right shifter. I have that set up on two bikes. My  Pop's Windsor, however, has a normal-pull Suntour rear derailer and a  REVERSE pull Suntour front derailer! So, on my Pop's bike, pull the  cable means a lower gear on both shifters. Haha. I'll chuckle about  it every time I get on. Promise. Maybe I should swap the left and  right shifters to make the reversal complete. :)You won't be chuckling when your now-confused reflexes cause you to do the exactly wrong thing when you're not paying attention. I used to be a big fan of the reverse pull SunTour front derailleurs, used them for 20 years on all my bikes. Then, 23 years ago I switched. Every so often even now I still go the wrong way and end up going to the granny when I meant to go to the big ring.  And you're destined for that same sort of error, and for the same reason: just as the SunTour backwards fronts went out of production and eventually failed in service, Shimano has, I understand, discontinued their ass-backwards MTB rear derailleurs. So down the road, when those reflexes have been thoroughly implanted, you inevitably will be forced to change back again.You are doomed. :-)Imagine how it used to be before the location of the brake and gas pedals became standardized... Oops just doesn't begin to cover it.-- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group.To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com.Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch.For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.



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Re: [RBW] Tire Width and Performance

2014-01-02 Thread Benz, Sunnyvale, CA
I don't know. Let's do a thought experiment. Let's assume that the wheels 
have a very high rotational inertia. Wouldn't that smooth out the sine wave 
you're talking about? The slowing down part is when rotational 
potential+kinetic energy gets converted to potential energy against 
gravity. Using a high rotational inertia will actually help in maintaining 
speed (to whatever extent it does) and thus create lower amplitude sine 
waves.

On Thursday, January 2, 2014 6:05:31 PM UTC-8, Anton Tutter wrote:

 When you're climbing a steep grade, you're not maintaining a constant 
 speed.  If you graphed your speed over time, with time on the x-axis, you'd 
 see something resembling a sine wave.  But your speedometer may not 
 register a change in speed because its averaging the speed over an 
 integration interval of probably several seconds.  In this case I would 
 agree that rotational weight can clearly be felt, much more than static 
 weight.

 Anton


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[RBW] Re: Cable End Soldering

2014-01-02 Thread Ken Yokanovich
I have been using 56% silver and compatible flux to solder the ends of my 
stainless steal cables. It works pretty well, but the silver does tarnish 
somewhat after time. Here is a quick/crummy iPhone photo, 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/31359238@N06/11721719064/

On Sunday, December 29, 2013 10:42:10 PM UTC-6, Tom Virgil wrote:

 So I don't like cable ends with ferrules that have nasty looking plier 
 pinch marks on them.  In the old days, I would size the cable, cut it, dip 
 the end in a solder pot, wait until temperatures equalized, and the cable 
 ends picked up the solder by capillary action.  And leave it at that. No 
 pinched ferrules and a very clean cable end.

 Anyone as persnickety as me?

 Tom


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Re: [RBW] Re: Albas Thumbies setup

2014-01-02 Thread Steve Palincsar

On 01/02/2014 09:32 PM, Joan Oppel wrote:
I just HAVE to chime in:  I have a reverse pull Shimano derailleur on 
my Bleriot BUT a standard pull Shimano derailleur on my Bike Friday. 
 I switch between them by (literally) talking to myself about the 
change when I get on the bike.  And I don't make wrong shifts on 
either bike.


On the other hand, when I ride the Bleriot for a few rides and then 
switch to my bike with brifters, I do reach for the bar end shifters 
instead of the brifters, even with my hands on the hoods.


So - TAKE THAT  :)
Joan

(This has been explained to SP previously)



It could be that the Bleriot and the Friday are so dramatically 
different in feel and appearance that context keeps the shifting 
direction separate and appropriate to the bike in question.



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[RBW] Re: Fenders and chain stay clearance

2014-01-02 Thread ted
Anton,
Where do you find that clear vinyl tape?

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[RBW] Re: Cable End Soldering

2014-01-02 Thread sameness
I'm pro-ferrule. I take great pride in the two spot-on perpendicular crimp 
marks of equal depth which divide the ferrule into perfect thirds. I often 
sacrifice two or three early and unsatisfying attempts to the landfill gods 
in the process. And yet I'll go an easy year plus without washing my bike.

Jeff Hagedorn
Warragul, VIC Australia

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