Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 problems in K2 transceiver

2021-05-08 Thread Don Wilhelm

Mark,

When you have the problem, look at the voltage at P1 pin 6 (that is 
VRFDET signal)?

If that is high, the MCU will limit power drastically.

Make sure Q1 is properly oriented.  If that does not help, try a mod to 
the KSB2 - reduce R9 to 1.5k and cut the trace between P1 pin 6 and the 
base of Q1 (on the top of the board) and insert a 1k resistor across the 
trace cut.

That will calm ALC problems with the KSB2, and otherwise will do no harm.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/8/2021 1:44 PM, M Bak wrote:

Today I finished the KSB2 adapter and installed it into my K2. It worked
first time but was intermittent. I found the issue as I had omitted to
solder the outer top pins of the twin three pin interconnects. That done
everything seems ok and then

No Apparent RF output. USB/LSB/CW Pressing TUNE produced a max of 0.8W. VOX
would trip to transmit but the S meter showed no modulation. Coarse carrier
balance adjustment worked but zero S meter readings was very wide (unlike
earlier when it was a fine, narrow adjustment)

All voltages looked slightly low but ball park on the KSB2 board except for
U2 (the DAC) Pin5 which is ALC THR. This was sitting at 5.89v rather than
0.6 on both RX and TX.

I have removed the KSB2 and full CW power output can now be achieved which
is a relief.

I will examine everything under a microscope again but has anyone any
suggestions? I suspect ALC to be the culprit but how to investigate?

Thanks

Mark G4RUR



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Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 problems in K2 transceiver

2021-05-08 Thread Mike K8CN
Mark,

Pin 5 of U2 provides ALC threshold voltage to the emitter of Q1 on the KSB2
board.  The 5.89 V you measured on Pin 5 suggests that the DAC input
register B didn't properly load the data word from the MCU.  I would check
the solder joints on all U2 pins and Pins 14, 16 and 17 of the MCU socket.  

73,
Mike, K8CN



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[Elecraft] KSB2 problems in K2 transceiver

2021-05-08 Thread M Bak
Today I finished the KSB2 adapter and installed it into my K2. It worked
first time but was intermittent. I found the issue as I had omitted to
solder the outer top pins of the twin three pin interconnects. That done
everything seems ok and then

No Apparent RF output. USB/LSB/CW Pressing TUNE produced a max of 0.8W. VOX
would trip to transmit but the S meter showed no modulation. Coarse carrier
balance adjustment worked but zero S meter readings was very wide (unlike
earlier when it was a fine, narrow adjustment)

All voltages looked slightly low but ball park on the KSB2 board except for
U2 (the DAC) Pin5 which is ALC THR. This was sitting at 5.89v rather than
0.6 on both RX and TX.

I have removed the KSB2 and full CW power output can now be achieved which
is a relief.

I will examine everything under a microscope again but has anyone any
suggestions? I suspect ALC to be the culprit but how to investigate?

Thanks

Mark G4RUR

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living in the past. If you are content you are living in the now.
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[Elecraft] KSB2 Assembled For Sale

2015-03-18 Thread Jerry Holcomb
I have for sale an assembled KSB2 sideband board for the K2.  $75.00 shipped
CONUS.  

Jerry Holcomb N0XWR

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Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 Problem Continued

2015-01-15 Thread Don Wilhelm

Gareth,

Yes, 100mV audio should be adequate to drive the KSB2.
Do you have the K2 wired to use an Elecraft or Icom microphone?  If so, 
try lifting the bias resistor to see if the DC bias is interfering with 
the output level of your audio generator - instead of lifting the bias 
resistor, you could put a capacitor (1 to 10uF) between the signal 
generator and the K2 mic input.


I need to know which KSB2 board you have installed (there are 3 
different ones and you can only tell me what I need to know by physical 
inspection of KSB2 U3.
First, is this a new KSB2 board (purchased within the last year) or is 
it the older type with an SM2165 at U3?  Is U3 an SMD component or is it 
a thru-hole device?


Your first check should be to measure the DC voltages to KSB2 U3 - they 
should agree with the voltages listed in the KSB2 manual.
If the voltages are not within reasonable agreement with the chart, then 
U3 is your problem.


Did your KSB2 board work properly in the past?  If so, something has 
failed and the challenge is to find it.
OTOH, if this is a newly built board that has never worked before, check 
all the components for proper values and placement and check all diodes 
for proper orientation.


If all else fails, do you have access to an oscilloscope with a 10x 
probe?  If so, I can give you some typical AC voltage values at given 
points along the signal path to isolate the problem to a particular stage.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/15/2015 2:07 PM, Gareth - M5KVK wrote:

K2 S/N 03885

Symptoms: low power and no ALC action when on SSB.

CW
With E= 13.0V on the K2 display, if I transmit CW into a dummy load PWR=10
gets me 10W according to my un-calibrated power meter and draws 2.3A (40m).

SSB
If I inject 1kHz sinewave into the Mic socket, for 100mV pp i/p I see about
6W out. Current varies between 1.9 and 2.2A and E comes down to 12.5 under
load.

Interestingly, there's zero action on the bargraph in ALC mode.

Needing 100mV to get 60% of set power seems high. I thought I should get
100% with 50mV. Even with 1.6V pp i/p, I only see 8W o/p




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[Elecraft] KSB2 SSB Adapter Problem

2014-01-18 Thread Darrell Hagan
Hi everyone!

I recently bought a used K2 with the KSB2 SSB adapter. The builder did a very 
clean, professional building job on both the radio and the KSB2 and I can find 
nothing wrong with the construction - i.e. no cold solder joints, no shorts, no 
solder bridges, all circuit paths are as they should be and have been verified 
several times.

The radio works perfectly normal in CW mode, and RX in the SSB modes is fine.

So here is my problem - when I key the radio in SSB mode via either the mic 
jack or the cw jack, I get a brief HI CUR warning and I get 12 watts of carrier 
which is unaffected by the carrier balance pot. Also, there is virtually SSB TX 
audio. ONLY SSB mode is affected.

I have taken voltage readings as suggested in the KSB2 manual and found (2) 
voltages to be out of line, both on U2:

U2 pin 5 - 5.99v, should be 0.6v

U2 Pin 8 - 0.45v, should be 6.0v

These are way out. All connections, components, etc. have been verified correct 
and good so I am thinking that U1 (the PIC) is the problem as it does affect 
this part of the circuit. I ahve reflowed all solder connactions on the entire 
board without success.

Toroids have been checked for shorting against the crystal cans, no shorts.

Q2 on the K2 RF board has been checked for proper installation and is verified 
good.

Again, the symptoms are: constant 12w output with inability to balance carrier.

No TX audio on SSB (yes the mic is good and is correctly wired)

Hi Cur message. TX cur is set in the menu @ 2.5A so this should not be a 
problem.

Any thoughts are appreciated, thank you!
   
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[Elecraft] KSB2

2013-04-14 Thread dan
Has anyone else had a problem with high current on transmit after
installation of the ksb2? I took it out and everything returned to
normal. Filters work great and no degraded receive just high current on
transmit. I am going through the voltage and short checks that are in
the book trying to track it down but if someone else has had this and
fixed it I would love a point in the right direction. Thanks.

Dan
AD5NW K2 #7412
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[Elecraft] KSB2 and KAF2

2013-03-13 Thread Bernie KF0QS
Dear Folks:

I thought I'd mention that I successfully installed my KSB2 in my K2 a week
ago Sunday, and it works great.  I've been getting excellent audio reports
from people and have even managed to work some DX on QRP SSB.  What fun to
have SSB installed in the K2, even though I'm primarily a CW operator.

I inventoried the parts on the KAF2 tonight (I've already built and
installed the KNB2 and the KAT2) and was absolutely shocked, I mean just
shocked, to find that there are no toroids to wind in it.  ;-)  (Actually,
I've never understood the fuss about them.  I think the hardest part of them
is making sure that you properly solder them during installation, since
residue on the leads sometimes makes it difficult to get the solder to flow,
so making sure they are properly tinned is the main chore, and that's not
that bad).  I don't want to jinx myself, but after the closely packed parts
in the KSB2 and the KAT2, I feel like I'm building the KAF2 on a board the
size of a football field.

Sadly, I'm not sure what I'll do after I finish with the KAF2, as building
the K2, the first three options to it, and building the K1 (along with its
ATU), have been one of the deepest pleasures I've had in ham radio (and I've
had many).  I've already started roaming around other QRP sites for stuff to
build after I finish with the KAF2 (I've also built a couple of the
mini-module kits).  It looks like I'm going to end up with a number of
little QRP rigs sitting around.

Thanks to Elecraft for a great experience in building both the K2 and the
K1.

73 de Bernie, KF0QS



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[Elecraft] KSB2 Problem with Assembly

2012-08-01 Thread KC9QQ
I am currently in the process of assembly a KSB2 (REV E KSB2 PC Board) which
I purchased with my K2 in November 2011.  I am currently completing the
installation of the resistors on the back side of the board.  After I
completed installing the resistors I noticed that I had an extra 10K
resistor.  I then checked my inventory and it showed that I had inventoried
3 10K resistors versus the 2 called for in inventory sheet.  

Just to be safe I downloaded the latest manual and compared it to my manual. 
It lists an additional four resistors on the back of the board (R21, R22,
R23 and R24). 

I have two questions:

1.  Should I be concerned that these resistors are not on the Rev E board?

2.  What is the purpose of the additional resistors?

Thanks,

Fred, KC9QQ



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Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 Problem with Assembly

2012-08-01 Thread Don Wilhelm
Fred,

Look carefully, that new manual does not match your KSB2.  Yours has an 
SSM2165 Speech Compressor and the new one uses an SSM2166 - the added 
resistors support that new IC.

As far as the extra 10k resistor, one is supplied with every KSB2 for 
use as a bias resistor if needed.  It is listed in the parts list as a 
component on the front panel.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/1/2012 3:30 PM, KC9QQ wrote:
 I am currently in the process of assembly a KSB2 (REV E KSB2 PC Board) which
 I purchased with my K2 in November 2011.  I am currently completing the
 installation of the resistors on the back side of the board.  After I
 completed installing the resistors I noticed that I had an extra 10K
 resistor.  I then checked my inventory and it showed that I had inventoried
 3 10K resistors versus the 2 called for in inventory sheet.

 Just to be safe I downloaded the latest manual and compared it to my manual.
 It lists an additional four resistors on the back of the board (R21, R22,
 R23 and R24).

 I have two questions:

 1.  Should I be concerned that these resistors are not on the Rev E board?

 2.  What is the purpose of the additional resistors?



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Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up --

2011-09-14 Thread David Lankshear
Just a tail end to what was said about Edsyn.  They charge a monumental sum
for shipping, BUT they send orders in pre-packs by the most economical
method and then they refund the difference back onto your card.  They say
it's due to a very old website

 

Sorry I didn't mention it before and I hope no-one had a coronary when they
saw the cost come up.

 

73  Dave  G3TJP

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[Elecraft] KSB2 screw up

2011-09-13 Thread TJ Campie
So I accidentally skipped the first page of instructions then found that I
had some parts left over at the end of construction and I was missing the
header P1 or whatever, so I grabbed the connector and soldered it inonly
to find that the previous owner of my K2 had already put the female
connector on the main board of the K2, and I had just accidentally installed
the female connector on the KSB2 board.  Great.

Long story short, I ripped out the female connector on the main board as it
was much easier to access but it was a huge  to get the male header into
the holes.  It isn't quite seated all the way but it is stable and straight
and seems to work OK with the module installed.

Question is: how would one actually go about removing one of these headers
correctly (I guess I already know the answer: desoldering station)

Already have 1 5w SSB qso down with one of the RT 66 stations and sent 1
wspr tx this morning and was spotted several places on the East coast.  It
works! :D


TJ W0EA
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Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up

2011-09-13 Thread Dale Putnam

Hi TJ, It will be very interesting to see the other answers/recommendations.  I 
use a controlled temp soldering iron, a whole lot of rosin and solder wick. And 
Quick Chip or Cash Olson has a removal kit that is extra nice too. He's the one 
that has the solder paste, that works so well.   Once in a while, it works well 
to reflow the board, and pick out the bad part, usually when there is no 
plastic close at all. The key is a temp contolled iron.Have a great day, 

--...   ...--
Dale - WC7S in Wy
  From: tom.cam...@gmail.com
 Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2011 07:50:45 -0500
 To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up
 
 So I accidentally skipped the first page of instructions then found that I
 had some parts left over at the end of construction and I was missing the
 header P1 or whatever, so I grabbed the connector and soldered it inonly
 to find that the previous owner of my K2 had already put the female
 connector on the main board of the K2, and I had just accidentally installed
 the female connector on the KSB2 board.  Great.
 
 Long story short, I ripped out the female connector on the main board as it
 was much easier to access but it was a huge  to get the male header into
 the holes.  It isn't quite seated all the way but it is stable and straight
 and seems to work OK with the module installed.
 
 Question is: how would one actually go about removing one of these headers
 correctly (I guess I already know the answer: desoldering station)
 
 Already have 1 5w SSB qso down with one of the RT 66 stations and sent 1
 wspr tx this morning and was spotted several places on the East coast.  It
 works! :D
 
 
 TJ W0EA
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Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up

2011-09-13 Thread John Cooper
you can break or cut the plastic between each pin  and desolder or heat 
each one out individually.  just take your time.  Even a Hakko 808 may have 
a problem with so many pins.

WT5Y

-Original Message- 
From: TJ Campie
Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2011 7:50 AM
To: Elecraft
Subject: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up

So I accidentally skipped the first page of instructions then found that I
had some parts left over at the end of construction and I was missing the
header P1 or whatever, so I grabbed the connector and soldered it inonly
to find that the previous owner of my K2 had already put the female
connector on the main board of the K2, and I had just accidentally installed
the female connector on the KSB2 board.  Great.

Long story short, I ripped out the female connector on the main board as it
was much easier to access but it was a huge  to get the male header into
the holes.  It isn't quite seated all the way but it is stable and straight
and seems to work OK with the module installed.

Question is: how would one actually go about removing one of these headers
correctly (I guess I already know the answer: desoldering station)

Already have 1 5w SSB qso down with one of the RT 66 stations and sent 1
wspr tx this morning and was spotted several places on the East coast.  It
works! :D


TJ W0EA
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Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up --

2011-09-13 Thread John Ragle
Tom...

 Such things are a pain in the ASCII...and I have made several 
mistakes of this kinds previously. After fooling around, tearing traces, 
etc. I have discovered that BY FAR THE BEST way to go about this is to 
use solder braid. You can buy it in small spools from Radio Shack, or 
just strip off the cover and core of an old piece of coax. I recommend 
the former. A desoldering station is not needed!

 When using the braid, be liberal! Don't try to scrimp and save. The 
surface tension of melted solder is very high, and capillary action will 
wick it totally into the braid. Heat the braid over the solder and let 
it suck up the melt, then move to a new section of braid and repeat. 
Eventually, you'll clean up quite a bit of solder with a few inches of 
braid.

 I know it sounds hokey, but it works VERY well. At the end, there 
will still probably be a little (tiny!) amount of solder holding one or 
more pins. With care (and maybe a little help from the XYL or a friend 
to provide a third hand) you will be able to move one end of the header 
a bit. From there, it is just a matter of applying a bit of heat at the 
right places and lifting gently.

 This same technique works well with DIP packages and with thru-hole 
components.

 It is often NOT POSSIBLE to save the component. In the case of DIP 
devices, you can always cut off the legs to make the removal process 
easier. In the case of the header you are working on, be careful not to 
apply so much heat that you melt the plastic around the pins.

 The secret is patience, NOT lots of heat. Take good care of the 
traces on the circuit board. A tiny drill-bit can be used to clear 
remaining solder out of the holes, BUT BE CAREFUL not to cut away the 
actual hole plating, as this may break a needed connection between the 
top and bottom layers of the PC board. I use a pin vise for this kind 
of operation, not a Dremel or other power device.

On 9/13/2011 8:50 AM, TJ Campie wrote:
 ...how would one actually go about removing one of these headers
 correctly?
-- 
Sent from my lovely old Dell XPS 420

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Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up

2011-09-13 Thread Don Wilhelm
Tom,

It won't help you with that task right now since you have already done 
the deed, but the process is easy.
For removing the male headers, you can tug on one pin with pliers while 
heating the solder - that pin will come out - continue while they are 
all out.
For the female headers, the plastic cover can be removed by prying it up 
a bit at a time starting with a sharp instrument like a knife edge and 
progressing to a screwdriver tip.  Once the cover is off, remove each of 
the pins one at a time.

Ok, the header pins are removed, but you still have solder to clean up 
so you can put the new part in - use solder wick to remove as much as 
you can, but there will likely be some left in the holes.  I like to use 
a stainless steel needle - heat the solder pad and push the needle into 
the hole.  If you do not have a stainless steel needle handy, a wooden 
toothpick will also work in a similar manner.

Even though I have a de-soldering station, I often use the needle method 
to open the holes.  It works for me.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/13/2011 8:50 AM, TJ Campie wrote:

 Question is: how would one actually go about removing one of these headers
 correctly (I guess I already know the answer: desoldering station)


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Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up --

2011-09-13 Thread Don Wilhelm
John,

Each to his own choices, but I would NEVER use a drill of any sort in a 
thru-plated hole  Even if the trace is only on one side (particularly on 
the component side), I would not take the chance.  Consider the 
situation where the PC trace is only on the component side of the board 
- you would normally solder on the opposite side, but if the thru-plated 
hole has been damaged, you must be aware that the lead must be soldered 
on the component side to complete the circuit - that is often difficult 
if the component is something like an electrolytic capacitor that sits 
right down on the board and you cannot solder under it.  The only cure 
is to repair the break with point to point wire.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/13/2011 9:18 AM, John Ragle wrote:
  A tiny drill-bit can be used to clear
 remaining solder out of the holes, BUT BE CAREFUL not to cut away the
 actual hole plating, as this may break a needed connection between the
 top and bottom layers of the PC board. I use a pin vise for this kind
 of operation, not a Dremel or other power device.


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[Elecraft] KSB2 with HM-7 mic question

2011-09-13 Thread TJ Campie
Thought of something else I ran into last night - I did not have any 820 Ohm
resistors to install on the config connector when wiring up for my Icom HM-7
microphone so I used a 1.1k - what are the effects of using a larger value?
Should I try to find/make an 820 Ohm resistor or does it matter?

TJ W0EA
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Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up --

2011-09-13 Thread John Ragle
Don:

Well, since you put this out to public view, I will answer in public. 
Please note my admonition to BE CAREFUL, and my suggestion to use a pin 
vise, not a powered device. There is no need for a complicated set of 
rules of behavior when common sense will do.

If you are so concerned about damaging the grommet, then please note 
that the SHANK end of a fine circuit-board drill-bit is just as 
effective as the stainless steel needle you recommend...it also will not 
be wetted by the melted solder...and is probably infinitely more 
available than a stainless needle.

The dominant part of my advice was to use solder braid early and often, 
and that a fancy desoldering station is, in the main, unnecessary for 
the casual repair of a circuit-board blunder. My suspicion is that most 
people who do HB construction have the necessary tools at hand.

My opinion (since we are talking about personal opinions or choices) is 
that anyone foolish enough to drill out a thru-plated hole probably 
doesn't know which end of a screwdriver to hammer on anyhow.

John Ragle -- W1ZI

=

On 9/13/2011 11:48 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
 John,

 Each to his own choices, but I would NEVER use a drill of any sort in a
 thru-plated hole  Even if the trace is only on one side (particularly on
 the component side), I would not take the chance.  Consider the
 situation where the PC trace is only on the component side of the board
 - you would normally solder on the opposite side, but if the thru-plated
 hole has been damaged, you must be aware that the lead must be soldered
 on the component side to complete the circuit - that is often difficult
 if the component is something like an electrolytic capacitor that sits
 right down on the board and you cannot solder under it.  The only cure
 is to repair the break with point to point wire.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 On 9/13/2011 9:18 AM, John Ragle wrote:
   A tiny drill-bit can be used to clear
 remaining solder out of the holes, BUT BE CAREFUL not to cut away the
 actual hole plating, as this may break a needed connection between the
 top and bottom layers of the PC board. I use a pin vise for this kind
 of operation, not a Dremel or other power device.


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-- 
Sent from my lovely old Dell XPS 420

-- 
Sent from my lovely old Dell XPS 420

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Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 with HM-7 mic question

2011-09-13 Thread Don Wilhelm
Tom,

That microphone has an internal amplifier, and the resistor acts as a 
collector load resistor.  I would guess that anything from the 
recommended 820 ohms up to about 2k would work, but I can't say for sure 
since I do not have data on the current drawn by the amplifier from a 5 
volt supply.

If your microphone works, leave it as-is.  If it does not (or results in 
a distorted signal), then change the resistor when you can get one.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/13/2011 12:22 PM, TJ Campie wrote:
 Thought of something else I ran into last night - I did not have any 820 Ohm
 resistors to install on the config connector when wiring up for my Icom HM-7
 microphone so I used a 1.1k - what are the effects of using a larger value?
 Should I try to find/make an 820 Ohm resistor or does it matter?

 TJ W0EA

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Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up --

2011-09-13 Thread Fred Townsend
Don, I worked in a large factory where we had a large rework department and
I saw a lot of alternative methods for removing connectors and as you said
each to his own. I second, your caution to never use a pin vise and drill.
The wall thickness is usually less than 0.001. The odds on getting a
correctly sized drill are not good.

I once had to change a lot of connectors in the field without the assistance
of a rework department. Even after removing the pins I still had a lot of
solder in the holes. Because the replacement pins were large the holes had
to be cleaned out very well. I mounted the board on edge in a Panavise. Then
using a 800 degree small conical tip iron pushed straight into the hole on
one side for about 5 seconds, I chased the hole from the other side with a
short burst of canned air. Cauntion1: Be sure to wear eye protection because
the solder can splatter.  If it's done right the iron will collect the
excess solder. 
Caution2: Don't use an overly large or small iron and get on and get off the
hole quickly. Too much heat will cook the hole out of the board.

It's very fast and the hole cleans up well.  

73,
Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2011 8:49 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up --

John,

Each to his own choices, but I would NEVER use a drill of any sort in a
thru-plated hole  Even if the trace is only on one side (particularly on the
component side), I would not take the chance.  Consider the situation where
the PC trace is only on the component side of the board
- you would normally solder on the opposite side, but if the thru-plated
hole has been damaged, you must be aware that the lead must be soldered on
the component side to complete the circuit - that is often difficult if the
component is something like an electrolytic capacitor that sits right down
on the board and you cannot solder under it.  The only cure is to repair the
break with point to point wire.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/13/2011 9:18 AM, John Ragle wrote:
  A tiny drill-bit can be used to clear remaining solder out of the 
 holes, BUT BE CAREFUL not to cut away the actual hole plating, as this 
 may break a needed connection between the top and bottom layers of the 
 PC board. I use a pin vise for this kind of operation, not a Dremel 
 or other power device.



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Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up

2011-09-13 Thread William Ravenel
When I built my K1 I actually installed a male connector in the wrong set of 
holes and was able to successfully remove it without destroying it. I used a 
large solder sucker (plunger type) and cleared one hole at at time. With a 
little additional heating and wiggling I was able to pull the header free. I 
was probably lucky not to have destroyed the board, but it worked.

William, AI4VE
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Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up --

2011-09-13 Thread Wayne Conrad
I don't think anyone has mentioned my favorite fix the goof soldering 
tool, a great big vacuum desoldering pump.  I use a Soldapult Deluxe 
that usually cleans the holes right out, without the foul language that 
solder braid seems to need.  Do the experts prefer solder braid, or is 
that just where the conversation led?

73, Wayne Conrad KF7QGA
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Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up --

2011-09-13 Thread Don Wilhelm
Wayne,

That is just where the conversation led.  I would not trade my Hakko 808 
for solder braid - but there are times when solder braid is the best 
answer, use whatever will do the best job.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/13/2011 4:37 PM, Wayne Conrad wrote:
 I don't think anyone has mentioned my favorite fix the goof soldering
 tool, a great big vacuum desoldering pump.  I use a Soldapult Deluxe
 that usually cleans the holes right out, without the foul language that
 solder braid seems to need.  Do the experts prefer solder braid, or is
 that just where the conversation led?


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Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up --

2011-09-13 Thread Brendan Minish
I have always had great results with the simple Spring loaded solder
suckers that you use with your normal iron. 
There is a bit of technique in using them effectively and it's important
to keep the solder sucker well cleaned. In addition to this do ensure
it's lubricated once in a while and replace the tip when it gets worn.

If using a spring loaded sucker spend some time practising on old PCB
boards to perfect your technique before using it on stuff that matters.
An added bonus to this practice is that it's an opportunity to add free
stock to your junk box.

Solder wick has it's place too, one trick with solder wick is to ensure
that it's not exposed to the air too much when not in use as this seems
to degrade the flux somewhat, so wind excess back into the holder and
don't be too stingy about the amount you chop off to start on the next
bit of the job.


73
Brendan EI6IZ 

On Tue, 2011-09-13 at 13:37 -0700, Wayne Conrad wrote:
 I don't think anyone has mentioned my favorite fix the goof soldering 
 tool, a great big vacuum desoldering pump.  I use a Soldapult Deluxe 
 that usually cleans the holes right out, without the foul language that 
 solder braid seems to need.  Do the experts prefer solder braid, or is 
 that just where the conversation led?
 
 73, Wayne Conrad KF7QGA
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-- 
73
Brendan EI6IZ 

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Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up --

2011-09-13 Thread Dale Putnam

One must be cautious with the solder suckers... have done extensive tests with 
static discharge from them, and it is well above most active circuit ability to 
withstand. In other words... using a solder sucker on today's smt will more 
than even odds pop the circuit in question.So if the socket being taken out, is 
in any fashion connected to a junction of any type be very aware that upon 
power up, that particular junction may not act like it is expected to... but 
much more like a smoked and toasted junction.   

--...   ...--
Dale - WC7S in Wy
  From: ei6iz.bren...@gmail.com
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2011 00:12:51 +0100
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up --
 
 I have always had great results with the simple Spring loaded solder
 suckers that you use with your normal iron. 
 There is a bit of technique in using them effectively and it's important
 to keep the solder sucker well cleaned. In addition to this do ensure
 it's lubricated once in a while and replace the tip when it gets worn.
 
 If using a spring loaded sucker spend some time practising on old PCB
 boards to perfect your technique before using it on stuff that matters.
 An added bonus to this practice is that it's an opportunity to add free
 stock to your junk box.
 
 Solder wick has it's place too, one trick with solder wick is to ensure
 that it's not exposed to the air too much when not in use as this seems
 to degrade the flux somewhat, so wind excess back into the holder and
 don't be too stingy about the amount you chop off to start on the next
 bit of the job.
 
 
 73
 Brendan EI6IZ 
 
 On Tue, 2011-09-13 at 13:37 -0700, Wayne Conrad wrote:
  I don't think anyone has mentioned my favorite fix the goof soldering 
  tool, a great big vacuum desoldering pump.  I use a Soldapult Deluxe 
  that usually cleans the holes right out, without the foul language that 
  solder braid seems to need.  Do the experts prefer solder braid, or is 
  that just where the conversation led?
  
  73, Wayne Conrad KF7QGA
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 -- 
 73
 Brendan EI6IZ 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up --

2011-09-13 Thread David Lankshear
I've used the spring type solder sucker for decades and it works well for
me.  A memorable event in my solder sucking career was the removal of the
main right angled multipin connector that had been soldered to the wrong
side of a part built K2 RF board.  The board was returned to its owner with
the same right angled connector soldered on the correct side, allowing
construction to continue and to the best of my knowledge, that K2 continues
in good health to this day.  That was also a mighty tribute to the quality
of PCB material that Elecraft specify.  Thanks, E.

 

I find that the application of sufficient heat holds the key to a good
suck.  Sufficient heat is needed to melt the solder on the joint side,
through the PTH and on to melt any solder that's gone through to the
component side.  There's a fine dividing line between sufficient heat and a
barbecue, which boils down to experience, lots of practice and is often
blessed with a wee bit of luck.

 

I'm currently fitting a K6XX board (thanks, Ron) to a K1 and I didn't like
the location shown in the instructions.  By moving RP1 and R6 to the other
side of the front panel board, a large area is created for the K6XX.
There's always a but and in this case, it's the need to separate the front
panel PCB from the front panel itself to adjust the detector's audio pitch,
but then, it should only need doing once G

 

I have a full size Edsyn Soldapult but find it too big for most
requirements, however, Edsyn have a closeout offer on page 7 of their
clearance items for a PT509 tool at just $6.99.
http://www.edsyn.com/index.php?Mode=prodclear
http://www.edsyn.com/index.php?Mode=prodclearpg=7 pg=7

 

There has to be a catch and it's a $25 minimum order, but if two or three
friends combine orders, together with a couple of spare tips on offer at
$1.50 each and maybe an O ring or two, that sum is all too easily
exceeded.

 

Don't expect Elecraft service from Edsyn.  I placed an (overseas) order with
them and had to chase it.  I tried telephoning, but my North of
England-tuned hearing couldn't understand what they were saying.  Suffice it
to say, the order eventually arrived and I was more than pleased with the
smaller device.

 

Chipquik has been mentiond before, but are worthy of another mention, as the
Company offer a free sample, which is not to be passed up.  Although they
focus on SMT technology, there's no reason it can't be used to aid removal
of a stubborn pin or two in a multipin device.  http://www.chipquik.com/

 

Much has been said lately about clearing plated through holes as part of a
re-work.  I find that feeding a bit more fresh solder into a PTH until it is
full and then using the solder sucker usually clears the hole extremely well
and requires no additional tools.  I find solder braid to be a waste of time
when clearing holes, but I do use it, after cleaning barbecued flux residue
away, to clear solder from flat surfaces, so pads are returned to flatness.
If you have a flux pen, run the pen tip over both sides of the unused wick
before use.  It helps it work even better.

 

73  Dave G3TJP

 

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Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up --

2011-09-13 Thread Sam Morgan
Couldn't afford the vacuum kit I wanted,
so  I built a low end wantabe tool for my desoldering tasks.

I have combined a Radio Shack 45-Watt Desoldering Iron
https://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062731

and one of Radio Shack's (popper styled) Vacuum Desoldering Tool
https://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062745

I removed the, IMO, useless rubber bulb on the Desoldering Iron
and attached a short piece of tubing between
where the bulb was removed and the tip of the 'popper' desoldering tool.

this way I can apply heat to the location
then hit the popper's release
hopefully sucking up (most of) the solder residue

sometimes I even using the popper as a blower
to clear some of the offending solder
hold the iron tip in place and push the popper down
as though you were going to cock it,
but don't complete the stroke to where it catches it's hold position

just be sure you don't blow the solder onto another part of a board
where you have to remove the mess you just made,
don't ask how I know this...

Sometimes I have also use the stainless needles as a last resort
but be sure the needle is small enough
to pass all the way through the hole

again with the how do I know this bit.
I used a needle a little to fat  for the hole and ended up
pushing the through hole, through the pcb hole, duh.


ymmv

GB  73
K5OAI
Sam Morgan
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Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 screw up --

2011-09-13 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Soldapulit sells an especially marked ESD Safe unit (Mfgr p/n SS750LS). It
isn't expensive - somewhere between 9 and 11 USD. Dale is quite right. 

ESD safety is always something to check on with anything that is brought
into contact with modern gear. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-

One must be cautious with the solder suckers... have done extensive tests
with static discharge from them, and it is well above most active circuit
ability to withstand. In other words... using a solder sucker on today's smt
will more than even odds pop the circuit in question.So if the socket being
taken out, is in any fashion connected to a junction of any type be very
aware that upon power up, that particular junction may not act like it is
expected to... but much more like a smoked and toasted junction.   

--...   ...--
Dale - WC7S in Wy

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[Elecraft] KSB2 being procured

2011-09-07 Thread TJ Campie
I am in the process of procuring a KSB2 - thank you for the offers.

TJ W0EA
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[Elecraft] KSB2 Resistor Packs

2011-08-18 Thread vk8fqrp
Good Day All,

Going through the inventory for the KSB2.

RP1  2 are 8pin 101577083272p however I have only got one of these, the
other 8 pin is L83C103. 

Have things changed or have I been sent an incorrect part?

Regards
Brendon
VK8FQRP

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Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 Resistor Packs

2011-08-18 Thread Don Wilhelm
Brendon,

I would wager that you purchased the KSB2 about 3 months ago.  There was 
a short period of time when only 1 of those R-Paks was placed in the 
bag.  That problem has been corrected by the kiting quality control.  I 
spotted the problem when I found 2 kits with only one 2.7k R-Pak - one 
kit could be a one-off packing error, but with two kits, it looked more 
like a bigger problem.  Val checked stock and got things fixed.  As I 
recall, that was about 3 months ago, but I can't recall the exact timing.

Contact pa...@elecraft.com and ask for the 2nd 2.7k R-Pak, it should be 
sent to you promptly.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/18/2011 9:37 PM, vk8fqrp wrote:
 Good Day All,

 Going through the inventory for the KSB2.

 RP1  2 are 8pin 101577083272p however I have only got one of these, the
 other 8 pin is L83C103.

 Have things changed or have I been sent an incorrect part?

 Regards
 Brendon
 VK8FQRP

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Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 Resistor Packs

2011-08-18 Thread vk8fqrp
Thanks for the reply Don, 

Will send off an email.

Regards

Brendon

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[Elecraft] KSB2 Question

2011-05-29 Thread David Dietrich
Hi All!

I have subscribed to this list in the past when I was working on my K1-4 a few 
year back.  I just recently broke down and bought a K2 (10 W) s/n 7164.  I'm 
long overdue to get one, but I figured it was now or never.  

I am planning on using this rig as a CW only QRP radio.  I am not even going to 
install the mic connector.  I have some sheet metal I am going to use to cover 
the holes for the options I did not get.  I am mostly a CW only operator (kind 
of strange for a 34 y/o), but I do like to listen to SSB when I am just messing 
around in my shack.  I was wondering if the KSB2 option would be worthwhile to 
get, AND does it affect the K2's performance if you don't align it for 
transmit?  Any feedback would be appreciated.

Thanks  73,

David, KC9EHQ
K1-4 s/n 2051
K2 s/n 7164 (starting build soon!)
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Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 Question

2011-05-29 Thread Don Wilhelm
  David,

If you are considering the KSB2, I would suggest you install it and the 
mic jack - it will be ready if you ever decide to try out some digital mode.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/29/2011 3:34 PM, David Dietrich wrote:
 Hi All!

 I have subscribed to this list in the past when I was working on my K1-4 a 
 few year back.  I just recently broke down and bought a K2 (10 W) s/n 7164.  
 I'm long overdue to get one, but I figured it was now or never.  

 I am planning on using this rig as a CW only QRP radio.  I am not even going 
 to install the mic connector.  I have some sheet metal I am going to use to 
 cover the holes for the options I did not get.  I am mostly a CW only 
 operator (kind of strange for a 34 y/o), but I do like to listen to SSB when 
 I am just messing around in my shack.  I was wondering if the KSB2 option 
 would be worthwhile to get, AND does it affect the K2's performance if you 
 don't align it for transmit?  Any feedback would be appreciated.

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Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 Question

2011-05-29 Thread Jim Dunstan
At 12:34 PM 5/29/2011 -0700, you wrote:
Hi All!

I have subscribed to this list in the past when I was working on my K1-4 a 
few year back.  I just recently broke down and bought a K2 (10 W) s/n 
7164.  I'm long overdue to get one, but I figured it was now or never.

I am planning on using this rig as a CW only QRP radio.  I am not even 
going to install the mic connector.  I have some sheet metal I am going to 
use to cover the holes for the options I did not get.  I am mostly a CW 
only operator (kind of strange for a 34 y/o), but I do like to listen to 
SSB when I am just messing around in my shack.  I was wondering if the 
KSB2 option would be worthwhile to get, AND does it affect the K2's 
performance if you don't align it for transmit?  Any feedback would be 
appreciated.

Thanks  73,

David, KC9EHQ
K1-4 s/n 2051
K2 s/n 7164 (starting build soon!)

Hi David'

Aside from SSB the KSB2 module is required for the DATA mode.  I also like 
CW ... but with low pwr PSK31 is a wonderful mode and personally wouldn't 
want to do without it.

Jim, VE3CI


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Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 build time?

2011-05-09 Thread Don Wilhelm
  TJ,

If you are doing it for the first time, give yourself 8 to 12 hours for 
the whole task.
As Alan Wilcox has said, use Specrtrogram for alignment, and become 
familiar with its use beforehand since you have a deadline.  The use 
of Spectrogram 5.17 (and its download) is available from Tom Hammond's 
website www.n0ss.net.
Additional information on the use of Spectrogram is in the K2 Dial 
Calibration article on my website www.w3fpr.com.

Note: if you are running Windows 7, Spectrogram 5.17 will not work - 
Spectrogram 16 (also freeware)  will work fine.  If you cannot locate it 
on-line, drop me a private email and I can send you a Zip file 
containing it.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/5/2011 1:35 PM, TJ Campie wrote:
 How long do you think it should take to complete a KSB2 including tuning and
 such?  I plan on getting one at Dayton and would like to have it done in 3
 or 4 evenings so I can use it when I do a SOTA activation over memorial day
 weekend.  (which I leave for Thursday night)  So figure 4 hours a night?  I
 looked through the manual, it doesnt look like it'd take more than a few
 hours to assemble.

 TJ - W0EA
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[Elecraft] KSB2 build time?

2011-05-05 Thread TJ Campie
How long do you think it should take to complete a KSB2 including tuning and
such?  I plan on getting one at Dayton and would like to have it done in 3
or 4 evenings so I can use it when I do a SOTA activation over memorial day
weekend.  (which I leave for Thursday night)  So figure 4 hours a night?  I
looked through the manual, it doesnt look like it'd take more than a few
hours to assemble.

TJ - W0EA
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Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 build time?

2011-05-05 Thread VK7JB
Hi Tom,

I'm a slow and methodical constructor and the KSB2 took me 8 hours to build,
over 4 nights.  

What took a bit of time for me was the BFO alignment to optimise  TX audio,
configuring the filters etc.  I found Spectrogram very helpful.  I did a lot
of  monitoring and recording to get the TX audio the way I like it. Because
this was  my first experience doing this sort of alignment, it took me maybe
4 hours all up until I was happy.  It would take very little time the second
time round or for someone experienced.

There are some good tips in the archives about set up of the K2 after
installing the KSB2.

I must say that I have several rigs and too many microphones and headsets
and I do use outboard audio equalisation on some of them.  I also have a K3
with its on-board 8 band EQ.  BUT - the rig  that attracts the most
unsolicited positive comments about TX audio is the little K2/100.  People
comment great audio - what are you running?!  And it's my K2 with the MH2
hand mic.  I rarely hear that using my other set-ups and so I wonder why I
bother with all the other audio paraphernalia.

Enjoy building.

John
VK7JB

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Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 build time?

2011-05-05 Thread Alan D. Wilcox
TJ,
If you've built kits before, you should have plenty of time to get it 
done. Enjoy the build!

You might want to order some toroids from Mychael, The Toroid Guy, ahead 
of time so you have them ready.

Watch that you put the diodes in properly. I always fold the top lead 
down on all of them before I start putting them in.

You'll need Spectrogram for the tuneup. If you haven't used it before, 
get familiar with it before you get into the last day or so of your 
available time. You don't need the KSB2 to get in some early practice on 
your K2.

Cheers, Alan

Alan D. Wilcox, W3DVX (K2-5373, K3-40)
570-321-1516
http://WilcoxEngineering.com
http://eBookEditor.net
https://www.smashwords.com/books/view/28062?ref=awilcox
Williamsport, PA 17701


On 5/5/11 1:35 PM, TJ Campie wrote:
 How long do you think it should take to complete a KSB2 including tuning and
 such?  I plan on getting one at Dayton and would like to have it done in 3
 or 4 evenings so I can use it when I do a SOTA activation over memorial day
 weekend.  (which I leave for Thursday night)  So figure 4 hours a night?  I
 looked through the manual, it doesnt look like it'd take more than a few
 hours to assemble.

 TJ - W0EA
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Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 build time?

2011-05-05 Thread Don Wilhelm
  Tom,

John's comments are right on for the entire process of building, 
installing and doing the alignment.
The building is not a problem, it just depends on your construction 
methods - if you are a insert one component and then solder it type of 
builder, it will take you longer than those who stuff a group of 
components and then solder.

As for John's statements about the use of Spectrogram to align the OP1 
filter, yes, I highly recommend that method.  Put a Spectrogram marker 
at 300 Hz and adjust the BFO so the approximate -3dB point on the low 
frequency passband skirt is positioned at 300 Hz, and you will have 
quite a reasonable filter for both transmit and receive - no need to set 
up FL2 using OP1 for a separate receive filter as is sometimes suggested 
- that is only necessary for those having a highly unusual vocal 
frequency span.  I set all K2s that I repair in that manner, and have 
never received any complaints, but have often received compliments 
because the on-air audio reports of my customers have been quite positive.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/5/2011 8:58 PM, VK7JB wrote:
 Hi Tom,

 I'm a slow and methodical constructor and the KSB2 took me 8 hours to build,
 over 4 nights.

 What took a bit of time for me was the BFO alignment to optimise  TX audio,
 configuring the filters etc.  I found Spectrogram very helpful.  I did a lot
 of  monitoring and recording to get the TX audio the way I like it. Because
 this was  my first experience doing this sort of alignment, it took me maybe
 4 hours all up until I was happy.  It would take very little time the second
 time round or for someone experienced.

 There are some good tips in the archives about set up of the K2 after
 installing the KSB2.

 I must say that I have several rigs and too many microphones and headsets
 and I do use outboard audio equalisation on some of them.  I also have a K3
 with its on-board 8 band EQ.  BUT - the rig  that attracts the most
 unsolicited positive comments about TX audio is the little K2/100.  People
 comment great audio - what are you running?!  And it's my K2 with the MH2
 hand mic.  I rarely hear that using my other set-ups and so I wonder why I
 bother with all the other audio paraphernalia.

 Enjoy building.

 John
 VK7JB

 --
 View this message in context: 
 http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KSB2-build-time-tp6335019p6336158.html
 Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] KSB2 Setup issue

2009-05-02 Thread Matt Palmer
Got my KSB2 to the point where I am running the BFO setup for LSB/USB,
i get all the way thru setting the LSB/BF!t frequency, I hit band- to
return to the BFO parameter display, but when i hit mode to change the
mode I am getting an info 230 message, and they K2 kicks me out of the
menu without saving the settings. Not sure where to go from here,
guidance would be appreciated.


Matt
W8ESE
Former KD8DAO
http://blog.MattIsKichigai.com
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Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 Setup issue

2009-05-02 Thread Matt Palmer
Discovered my freq counter probe is intermittent, trying to fix, but
ordered a new one from elecraft just in case, guess i'll have to
shelve the k2 until the new one arrives.

Matt
W8ESE
Former KD8DAO
http://blog.MattIsKichigai.com



On Sat, May 2, 2009 at 12:14 PM, Matt Palmer kd8...@gmail.com wrote:
 Got my KSB2 to the point where I am running the BFO setup for LSB/USB,
 i get all the way thru setting the LSB/BF!t frequency, I hit band- to
 return to the BFO parameter display, but when i hit mode to change the
 mode I am getting an info 230 message, and they K2 kicks me out of the
 menu without saving the settings. Not sure where to go from here,
 guidance would be appreciated.


 Matt
 W8ESE
 Former KD8DAO
 http://blog.MattIsKichigai.com

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Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 Setup issue

2009-05-02 Thread Don Wilhelm
Matt,

Check the crimp pins in the connector housing - that is the most common 
place for the probe to fail.  The pins must be inserted correctly into 
the housing and the small tabs must lock into the rectangular holes in 
the side of the housing.  If the wire has been inserted too far into the 
crimp pin, the contact will not work correctly and will be deformed the 
first time you plug it into the mating header.

73,
Don W3FPR

Matt Palmer wrote:
 Discovered my freq counter probe is intermittent, trying to fix, but
 ordered a new one from elecraft just in case, guess i'll have to
 shelve the k2 until the new one arrives.

 Matt
 W8ESE
   

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[Elecraft] KSB2

2008-11-08 Thread David Robertson
Curt,

I have 2 K2s and both have the KSB2 option.
First, Installing the SSB option and aligning it correctly doesn't reduce the 
K2's effectiveness in the CW mode, in fact it inhances it.
Second, This option opens the door to digital, SSB and sstv communications. 

If your K2 is stock CW then you have to remove the front panel to install the 
mic circuit components which is a pain but easily done.

You will be glad you install this option (even if you don't use SSB).

73
Dave KD1NACompleted K2 s/n 6424 a few months back, am thinking of adding a KSB2 
adapter kit I own.  I've seen several threads indicating that the SSB 
performance of the K2 with the adapter isn't very good.  Would adding this 
capability be worthwhile, or is leaving the K2 as CW only a better option?

73, Curt KB5JO 


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[Elecraft] KSB2 INSTALL - RX LOST

2008-05-15 Thread MTcja

Just throwing this out there while I start backtracking to figure it out.

I have installed the K160RX, KAT2, KBT2 and now the KSB2.  Prior to install
I was able to hear activity on the bands.  After install I could hear very
few stations.  On the ones that I could hear, it was barely so even with
full AF gain and the SWR meter would barely deflect.  This AM a friend tried
to TX on 40m at 5, 10 and 50 Watts.   So it seems I have induced a deafness
problem.  I have also installed the Elecraft mic with the Rbias resister and
jumpers.  I was missing one jumper but used one from my computer junk box. 
It was slightly different as it does not have a top like the ones Elecraft
provided.  I include this on the off chance this might mean something to
those of you far more experienced and knowledgeable than I.  I have
attempted to TX into a dummy load and I get dot deflections on the SWR
meter in the 5-7 range but a separate watt meter indicates well below the
set power.

Anyway, if anyone has any thoughts on tracking down this gremlin they are
certainly welcome.

Thanks  73's,

Chris
K7CJA
K2#4662
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://www.nabble.com/KSB2-INSTALL---RX-LOST-tp17258436p17258436.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 INSTALL - RX LOST

2008-05-15 Thread Don Wilhelm

Chris,

Track down the receive problem first - it is not related to either the 
mic wiring or the transmit path.

The problem is on the KSB2 board.
First thing to check is the orientation of the diodes on the KSB2 board 
- all the cathodes (marked ends) should be mounted away from the board.
The second thing to check is the windings of RFC1 and RFC2 - if you 
scraped the wire insulation on the core when winding the toroids, the 
bare wire can short to the crystal cans and ground out the signal.  Take 
a thin strip of paper and insert it between the toroids and the crystals 
to check for that condition.
Be certain you soldered all the pins of P2 and P3 (and the corresponding 
headers on the RF Board).


As a check on the integrity of the receive path of the basic K2, try 
removing the KSB2 board and insert a wire jumper between pins 1 and 3 on 
both J9 and J10 on the RF board.  The receiver should become functional 
- if not, you inadvertently disturbed something on the RF Board during 
the KSB2 installation.


If one of those suggestions does not reveal the trouble, it is time for 
some in-depth troubleshooting.  Get out the DMM and ask about it again.


73,
Don W3FPR

MTcja wrote:

Just throwing this out there while I start backtracking to figure it out.

I have installed the K160RX, KAT2, KBT2 and now the KSB2.  Prior to install
I was able to hear activity on the bands.  After install I could hear very
few stations.  On the ones that I could hear, it was barely so even with
full AF gain and the SWR meter would barely deflect.  This AM a friend tried
to TX on 40m at 5, 10 and 50 Watts.   So it seems I have induced a deafness
problem.  I have also installed the Elecraft mic with the Rbias resister and
jumpers.  I was missing one jumper but used one from my computer junk box. 
It was slightly different as it does not have a top like the ones Elecraft

provided.  I include this on the off chance this might mean something to
those of you far more experienced and knowledgeable than I.  I have
attempted to TX into a dummy load and I get dot deflections on the SWR
meter in the 5-7 range but a separate watt meter indicates well below the
set power.

Anyway, if anyone has any thoughts on tracking down this gremlin they are
certainly welcome.

Thanks  73's,

Chris
K7CJA
K2#4662
  




No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 8.0.100 / Virus Database: 269.23.16/1434 - Release Date: 5/15/2008 7:24 AM
  

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RE: [Elecraft] KSB2 INSTALL - RX LOST

2008-05-15 Thread James C. Hall, MD
Hi Glenn:

FB on all this. I LOVE the idea of a hard number of paid members such as 11
for club business. 

All I saw was a typo or two - checks for club rather than 'cub' business. HI
Also you have two instances of the word 'next' in one sentence to describe
the 2 readings. Change the last instance to 'following'.

We may still want to define VE session member a bit further. I believe there
was a YL that passed here Tech this last time from Humboldt - technically
she is an RARC member by definition. We could simply send an email to those
folks upon passage of their tech stating that they would need to be at X
meetings to 'activate' such a membership, or maybe just the return of the
email to signify they want this membership, or some variance in between.

73, Jamie
WB4YDL 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of MTcja
Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2008 12:27 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KSB2 INSTALL - RX LOST


Just throwing this out there while I start backtracking to figure it out.

I have installed the K160RX, KAT2, KBT2 and now the KSB2.  Prior to install
I was able to hear activity on the bands.  After install I could hear very
few stations.  On the ones that I could hear, it was barely so even with
full AF gain and the SWR meter would barely deflect.  This AM a friend tried
to TX on 40m at 5, 10 and 50 Watts.   So it seems I have induced a deafness
problem.  I have also installed the Elecraft mic with the Rbias resister and
jumpers.  I was missing one jumper but used one from my computer junk box. 
It was slightly different as it does not have a top like the ones Elecraft
provided.  I include this on the off chance this might mean something to
those of you far more experienced and knowledgeable than I.  I have
attempted to TX into a dummy load and I get dot deflections on the SWR
meter in the 5-7 range but a separate watt meter indicates well below the
set power.

Anyway, if anyone has any thoughts on tracking down this gremlin they are
certainly welcome.

Thanks  73's,

Chris
K7CJA
K2#4662
-- 
View this message in context:
http://www.nabble.com/KSB2-INSTALL---RX-LOST-tp17258436p17258436.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Database version: 5.09830e
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Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 INSTALL - RX LOST

2008-05-15 Thread Joe Planisky
Have you checked the obvious things? I feel qualified offering the  
following suggestions as I've made all of these mistakes myself :-)


- Make sure the antenna is plugged into the right connector.  If your  
KAT2 is connected, use one of the Antenna Tuner connectors on the  
back side of the top panel.  If the KAT2 is NOT connected, use the  
Antenna connector on the back of the bottom cover next to the power  
connector.


- Make sure the KAT2 RF cable (J7) is connected to P6 on the RF  
board.  (I don't know if it's changed, but it used to be that the RF  
connector (P6) and the battery connector (P3) were the same.  There  
are warnings in the manual about getting them mixed up.)


- Make sure the KAT2 control cable (J8) is plugged into P4 on the  
Control Board correctly. The green wire should be at the top.


73
--
Joe KB8AP


On May 15, 2008, at 10:26 AM, MTcja wrote:



Just throwing this out there while I start backtracking to figure it  
out.


I have installed the K160RX, KAT2, KBT2 and now the KSB2.  Prior to  
install
I was able to hear activity on the bands.  After install I could  
hear very

few stations.

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Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 INSTALL - RX LOST

2008-05-15 Thread Peter Wollan
This sounds a lot like a problem I had installing the KNB2 (which  
still isn't solved, regrettably).  The cables between the top cover  
and the main boards of the K2 have a variety of connections, and they  
can get flexed in taking the cover off.  In my case, the ground  
shield broke at the KAT2 -- somehow this allowed strong signals to  
leak through anyway, giving a mostly deaf K2.  Resoldering the shield  
and removing the KNB2 restored full receive.  (I'm still slowly  
trying to figure out what's wrong with the KNB2).


Tracking the complete receive path is hard.  Look first for bad  
connections where signals go in or out of the added modules.


And keep telling yourself you'll get it working perfectly someday ...

Peter N8MHD
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Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 INSTALL - RX LOST

2008-05-15 Thread Joe Planisky
Oh, forgot about rAnt.  Make sure you didn't accidentally turn on rAnt  
(the receive-only antenna you get with the K160RX option) in the  
menu.  It's right next to the CAL menu item and I've accidentally  
turned it on while calibrating the filters.


73
--
Joe KB8AP

On May 15, 2008, at 11:34 AM, Joe Planisky wrote:

Have you checked the obvious things? I feel qualified offering the  
following suggestions as I've made all of these mistakes myself :-)


- Make sure the antenna is plugged into the right connector.  If  
your KAT2 is connected, use one of the Antenna Tuner connectors on  
the back side of the top panel.  If the KAT2 is NOT connected, use  
the Antenna connector on the back of the bottom cover next to the  
power connector.


- Make sure the KAT2 RF cable (J7) is connected to P6 on the RF  
board.  (I don't know if it's changed, but it used to be that the RF  
connector (P6) and the battery connector (P3) were the same.  There  
are warnings in the manual about getting them mixed up.)


- Make sure the KAT2 control cable (J8) is plugged into P4 on the  
Control Board correctly. The green wire should be at the top.


73
--
Joe KB8AP


On May 15, 2008, at 10:26 AM, MTcja wrote:



Just throwing this out there while I start backtracking to figure  
it out.


I have installed the K160RX, KAT2, KBT2 and now the KSB2.  Prior to  
install
I was able to hear activity on the bands.  After install I could  
hear very

few stations.

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RE: [Elecraft] KSB2 INSTALL - RX LOST

2008-05-15 Thread James C. Hall, MD
Elecrafter's:

I have no idea how this ended up on this list. My apologies.

73, Jamie
WB4YDL

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of James C. Hall, MD
Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2008 12:53 PM
To: 'MTcja'; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] KSB2 INSTALL - RX LOST

Hi Glenn:

FB on all this. I LOVE the idea of a hard number of paid members such as 11
for club business. 

All I saw was a typo or two - checks for club rather than 'cub' business. HI
Also you have two instances of the word 'next' in one sentence to describe
the 2 readings. Change the last instance to 'following'.

We may still want to define VE session member a bit further. I believe there
was a YL that passed here Tech this last time from Humboldt - technically
she is an RARC member by definition. We could simply send an email to those
folks upon passage of their tech stating that they would need to be at X
meetings to 'activate' such a membership, or maybe just the return of the
email to signify they want this membership, or some variance in between.

73, Jamie
WB4YDL 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of MTcja
Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2008 12:27 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KSB2 INSTALL - RX LOST


Just throwing this out there while I start backtracking to figure it out.

I have installed the K160RX, KAT2, KBT2 and now the KSB2.  Prior to install
I was able to hear activity on the bands.  After install I could hear very
few stations.  On the ones that I could hear, it was barely so even with
full AF gain and the SWR meter would barely deflect.  This AM a friend tried
to TX on 40m at 5, 10 and 50 Watts.   So it seems I have induced a deafness
problem.  I have also installed the Elecraft mic with the Rbias resister and
jumpers.  I was missing one jumper but used one from my computer junk box. 
It was slightly different as it does not have a top like the ones Elecraft
provided.  I include this on the off chance this might mean something to
those of you far more experienced and knowledgeable than I.  I have
attempted to TX into a dummy load and I get dot deflections on the SWR
meter in the 5-7 range but a separate watt meter indicates well below the
set power.

Anyway, if anyone has any thoughts on tracking down this gremlin they are
certainly welcome.

Thanks  73's,

Chris
K7CJA
K2#4662
-- 
View this message in context:
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[Elecraft] KSB2: Accidentally reversed RP2 - OK?

2008-05-14 Thread TF3KX

I was staying up a bit too late last night, assembling my KSB2, and
accidentally installed the 2.7K resistor network RP2 reversed (pin1 is where
pin 8 should be, etc.).  Now, if RP2 simply consists of four equal and
individual resistors (pins 1-2, 3-4, 5-6, 7-8) I would believe this does not
matter.  Furthermore, the symmetry of this part of the KSB2 circuit would
also support this.

I don't like taking up the soldering iron and desoldering pump to fix
something that does not need messing with.  So, it would be reassuring to
hear if any one seconds my conclusion to leave RP2 as is...

73 - Kristinn, TF3KX
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://www.nabble.com/KSB2%3A-Accidentally-reversed-RP2---OK--tp17242103p17242103.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] KSB2: Accidentally reversed RP2 - OK?

2008-05-14 Thread John R. Lonigro

Kristinn:
Looks like the resistor gods were with you this time.  If you look at 
the schematic for the KSB2, you'll see (upper right corner) that RP2 is 
4 separate resistors with no pins in common (1-2, 3-4, 5-6, 7-8), so you 
can keep RP2 installed reversed.  The same is true for RP1.  HOWEVER, 
RP5, for example, has a common pin (pin 1), so if you had reversed RP5, 
you would have had to desolder it and install it correctly.


Good luck with the rest of the installation, but watch out for those 
polarizing markings!  They are usually there for a reason.


73's,
John AA0VE

TF3KX wrote:

I was staying up a bit too late last night, assembling my KSB2, and
accidentally installed the 2.7K resistor network RP2 reversed (pin1 is where
pin 8 should be, etc.).  Now, if RP2 simply consists of four equal and
individual resistors (pins 1-2, 3-4, 5-6, 7-8) I would believe this does not
matter.  Furthermore, the symmetry of this part of the KSB2 circuit would
also support this.

I don't like taking up the soldering iron and desoldering pump to fix
something that does not need messing with.  So, it would be reassuring to
hear if any one seconds my conclusion to leave RP2 as is...

73 - Kristinn, TF3KX
  

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Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 mic hook up

2008-01-03 Thread Mike Harris
Hi Robert,

Correct, just had the side off #1400 to check.

Regards,

Mike VP8NO

- Original Message - 
From: Robert 'RC' Conley [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2008 10:24 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] KSB2 mic hook up


| I'm installing the KSB2 in K2-#6321. I'm using A Kenwood MC-43S Mic
| from my TS 850S.
| It looks like all the pins are wired straight across EXCEPT PINS 5 6
| 6 WHICH ARE NOT
| JUMPED if I'm reading it right
| RC kc5wa

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[Elecraft] KSB2 mic hook up

2008-01-02 Thread Robert 'RC' Conley
I'm installing the KSB2 in K2-#6321. I'm using A Kenwood MC-43S Mic
from my TS 850S.
It looks like all the pins are wired straight across EXCEPT PINS 5 6
6 WHICH ARE NOT
JUMPED if I'm reading it right
RC kc5wa
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Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 sidetone?

2007-11-19 Thread Don Wilhelm

Chris,

I cannot relate 'sidetone in the headset' with SSB operation.  In CW, 
there is a sidetone presented to the headphones or speaker which follows 
the keying, but there is nothing of that sort for SSB.  If you lost your 
CW sidetone while using the K2 memory, that is quite another matter.  
The K3 does provide a means of monitoring the transmitted audio (but 
that is not a sidetone), but the K2 does not - an external receiver with 
a short antenna while the K2 is operating into a dummy load can be used 
to listen to your transmitted audio.


As far as the 'murmur', please try to be more descriptive - I can only 
guess that it might be either room noise pickup by the microphone or it 
could be incomplete carrier suppression or possibly some sort of RF 
Feedback due to 'RF in the shack'.


If you have an oscilloscope or other means of detecting a low level RF 
signal, you can set the carrier balance pot with more precision than by 
using the method described in the manual.  Do not connect a microphone 
but do connect a key or paddle - connect the 'scope or other detector 
across a dummy load.  Then go to LSB mode and close the dot paddle or 
handkey and adjust the carrier balance pot for minimum carrier - switch 
to USB and check the carrier balance again - you may have to go back and 
forth between LSB and USB to obtain the lowest compromise setting for 
both sidebands.  Properly adjusted, the K2 carrier balance is excellent.


You may also want to re-check your OP1 passband setting using 
Spectrogram.  It is important to place the low frequency corner (-3dB 
point) of the passband close to the 300 Hz point for both LSB and USB.  
If you have the stock 2.4 kHz SSB filter, set the Spectrogram markers at 
300 and 2600 and center the passband between those markers and it will 
normally be correct for both transmit and receive.  See the filter 
setting information in part 3 of my K2 dial calibration article on my 
website http://w3fpr.qrpradio.com for additional information about using 
Spectrogram for setting the SSB filters.


73,
Don W3FPR

Chris Kantarjiev wrote:

Even though I built and installed a KSB2 a year or so ago, this week
is the first time I've actually used it. I have to admit, phone
operation is sort of fun, though I'm not likely to spend much time
outside contests doing it - altogether too much like a telephone.

One question: there doesn't seem to be any sidetone in the headset
when I transmit. I made some recordings of my audio output (to
play back for W7GH, who was also testing out his KSB2), and we
both noticed that there is some ... murmuring when I'm transmitting,
but nothing intelligible.

I thought the lack of sidetone would be an issue, but it doesn't
seem to be. Still, I'm curious - what's the murmuring? Should there
be audible sidetone?

  

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RE: [Elecraft] KSB2 sidetone?

2007-11-19 Thread Craig Rairdin
 I cannot relate 'sidetone in the headset' with SSB operation.  In CW, 
 there is a sidetone presented to the headphones or speaker which 
 follows the keying, but there is nothing of that sort for SSB.  
 The K3 does provide a means of monitoring the transmitted audio (but 
 that is not a sidetone)

FWIW I'm a pilot and the transceivers we use in airplanes to communicate
with the ground all have audio sidetone that feeds back into the headset.
Your telephone has sidetone that feeds your voice back to the earpiece. In
both cases this feature is called sidetone. See
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sidetone and
http://www8.garmin.com/manuals/SL30Nav_Comm_UserGuide.pdf (page 32).

Craig
NZ0R

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Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 sidetone?

2007-11-19 Thread David Cutter
The reason for sidetone is that it makes talking much easier if you can hear 
your own voice.  Early telephones could easily be made to have no sidetone, 
but it was found that the user found it difficult to speak properly, so some 
of their voice was fed back just for this purpose.  If you have tried 
speaking over the internet with a loudspeaker, you quickly build up several 
echoes as your sidetone and your respondent's sidetone build up, so, 
headphones are almost mandatory.  If your headphones are for hi fi, they may 
have little attenuation of the surroundings, such as my Sennheiser, but 
communications headphones are usually made to keep out extraneous noise and 
that's when you need sidetone.  It's up to 20dB down, but nice if this is 
adjustable to taste and local conditions.


David
G3UNA

- Original Message - 
From: Craig Rairdin [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 3:08 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] KSB2 sidetone?



I cannot relate 'sidetone in the headset' with SSB operation.  In CW,
there is a sidetone presented to the headphones or speaker which
follows the keying, but there is nothing of that sort for SSB.
The K3 does provide a means of monitoring the transmitted audio (but
that is not a sidetone) 


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Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 sidetone?

2007-11-19 Thread Robert 'RC' Conley
Everybody has sidetone. When you record your voice and play it back
you'll notice it doesn't sound the same as you hear yourself because
you hear your speech returning through your skull bones. While wearing
headphones you're hearing the murmur or sidetone if you will
returning through your skull bones I've heard this murmur with every
transceiver I've ever owned

On Nov 19, 2007 9:31 AM, David Cutter [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 The reason for sidetone is that it makes talking much easier if you can hear
 your own voice.  Early telephones could easily be made to have no sidetone,
 but it was found that the user found it difficult to speak properly, so some
 of their voice was fed back just for this purpose.  If you have tried
 speaking over the internet with a loudspeaker, you quickly build up several
 echoes as your sidetone and your respondent's sidetone build up, so,
 headphones are almost mandatory.  If your headphones are for hi fi, they may
 have little attenuation of the surroundings, such as my Sennheiser, but
 communications headphones are usually made to keep out extraneous noise and
 that's when you need sidetone.  It's up to 20dB down, but nice if this is
 adjustable to taste and local conditions.

 David
 G3UNA

 - Original Message -
 From: Craig Rairdin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 3:08 PM
 Subject: RE: [Elecraft] KSB2 sidetone?


  I cannot relate 'sidetone in the headset' with SSB operation.  In CW,
  there is a sidetone presented to the headphones or speaker which
  follows the keying, but there is nothing of that sort for SSB.
  The K3 does provide a means of monitoring the transmitted audio (but
  that is not a sidetone)


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[Elecraft] KSB2 sidetone?

2007-11-18 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
Even though I built and installed a KSB2 a year or so ago, this week
is the first time I've actually used it. I have to admit, phone
operation is sort of fun, though I'm not likely to spend much time
outside contests doing it - altogether too much like a telephone.

One question: there doesn't seem to be any sidetone in the headset
when I transmit. I made some recordings of my audio output (to
play back for W7GH, who was also testing out his KSB2), and we
both noticed that there is some ... murmuring when I'm transmitting,
but nothing intelligible.

I thought the lack of sidetone would be an issue, but it doesn't
seem to be. Still, I'm curious - what's the murmuring? Should there
be audible sidetone?

73 de chris K6DBG
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Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 OP1 filter USB response...

2007-10-08 Thread John Magliacane
--- Steve Kallal [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 It has been a few weeks since I built the KSB2 option. There is one problem
 I haven't yet resolved. The response on the USB side of OP1 is not as broad
 as the LSB side, and has a narrower peak.

Hi Steve.

Assuming your KSB2 is working properly, what you are seeing may very well be a
familiar characteristic of the crystal ladder filter used in the rig.

I ran some sweeps of my K2/100 several years ago, the results of which clearly
illustrate this effect.  Response vs. frequency plots may be found here:

  http://www.qsl.net/kd2bd/ksb2.html

The response is slightly asymmetric, with the roll-off being noticeably sharper
on one side of the passband than the other.

This is normal.

The side with the sharper roll-off will (in my opinion) ring more than the
gentler side.  As such, audio products that hit the sharper edge may appear
to be over-emphasized, so it might be beneficial to tailor your microphone's
audio response and the BFO frequencies to avoid hitting this edge with too much
audio.

Also, be aware that due to the mixing scheme of the transceiver, the audio
characteristics you observed are not only a product of the sideband selected,
but also the frequency band you've on as well.


73, de John, KD2BD


Visit John on the Web at:

http://kd2bd.ham.org/
.
.
.
.


  

Shape Yahoo! in your own image.  Join our Network Research Panel today!   
http://surveylink.yahoo.com/gmrs/yahoo_panel_invite.asp?a=7 


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[Elecraft] KSB2 OP1 filter USB response...

2007-10-06 Thread Steve Kallal
It has been a few weeks since I built the KSB2 option. There is one problem
I haven't yet resolved. The response on the USB side of OP1 is not as broad
as the LSB side, and has a narrower peak. I didn't pay much attention to
this before. I've never transmitted in USB except for the digital modes
using RTTY reverse. I'm not much of a SSB guy.

These observations were made with the Spectrogram software. The symptoms are
quite noticeable by listening also.

73,

Steve N6VL
K2 #2289

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Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 OP1 filter USB response...

2007-10-06 Thread Don Wilhelm

Steve,

Tell us more.  The SSB OP1 filter as observed with Spectrogram in LSB or 
USB should show a relatively flat passband extending from about 300 Hz 
to 2600 Hz.  I do not understand 'peak' in that context.  It may be that 
your BFO frequencies are not adjusted properly, but your use of the 
'peak' term causes some doubt about what you are observing.  Can you be 
more specific and descriptive?


73,
Don W3FPR

Steve Kallal wrote:

It has been a few weeks since I built the KSB2 option. There is one problem
I haven't yet resolved. The response on the USB side of OP1 is not as broad
as the LSB side, and has a narrower peak. I didn't pay much attention to
this before. I've never transmitted in USB except for the digital modes
using RTTY reverse. I'm not much of a SSB guy.

These observations were made with the Spectrogram software. The symptoms are
quite noticeable by listening also.

73,

Steve N6VL
K2 #2289

  

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Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 No Transmit Audio

2007-08-20 Thread Don Wilhelm

Mark,

The path through Q1 is only used in CW mode to make the path from the 
BFO to the Transmit Mixer (on the RF Board) complete - that circuitry 
replaces C167 which you removed from the RF board.
For SSB, the Balanced modulator signal goes 'backwards' through the 
filter and is applied to Q2 where it should find its way back to the RF 
board and on to the transmit mixer.  Be certain the TXC signal is 
operating correctly - it should be near 6 volts during CW transmit and 
near zero during SSB transmit.


If you need more detailed info, please ask.  I do not know of a document 
with that level of detail other than the schematic.


73,
Don W3FPR

Beth Wenzel wrote:

Hi guys, i built my k2 about a year and a half ago, I've recently decided to add a 
Ksb2, all wen together well, but... alas it doesn't work. I've checked all of the 
signal voltages, everything is ok. I've traced (with an o-scope) a nice looking 
modulated signal to the top of D3, then nothing. Checking D3 in circuit it looks 
ok (.6 ohm forward,  100k reverse) I'm assuming the sig should pass through to 
the base of Q3 (?).

  

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[Elecraft] KSB2 No Transmit Audio

2007-08-19 Thread Beth Wenzel
Hi guys, i built my k2 about a year and a half ago, I've recently decided to 
add a Ksb2, all wen together well, but... alas it doesn't work. I've checked 
all of the signal voltages, everything is ok. I've traced (with an o-scope) a 
nice looking modulated signal to the top of D3, then nothing. Checking D3 in 
circuit it looks ok (.6 ohm forward,  100k reverse) I'm assuming the sig 
should pass through to the base of Q3 (?).

Is there a circuit description that can help me with the trace?

73 AB9LZ Mark,
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[Elecraft] KSB2 Kit Resistor query

2007-08-17 Thread Denis Jackson
Hi, 

Just got to the step in the control panel where, if you are also planning to 
fit the KSB2 board, you add some of the optional components to the control 
board.  On the KSB2  instructions, page 16, it says R13 is 68.1k - and also in 
the inventory on page 3 it gives the same value for this resistor.

Trouble is, I don't have a resistor that value in the bag.  I do have one of 
64k but that's it.  I can't seem to find a 64k resistor elsewhere in the 
inventory so I'm guessing (again) that this is a substitute.  Anyone know for 
sure?

Thanks

Denis

MW0CBC/GW8OQV 
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[Elecraft] KSB2 Fine Carrier Adjustment

2007-04-06 Thread Steve Watkins
Thanks to Jerry, WA2DKG, I got past the Deaf K2 by plugging the speaker into 
the P5 on the RF board vs. the Control Board.  I'm not sure how or where I 
missed that it should be plugged in there, but it works, so things weren't 
shorted after all on the KSB2 board.

Now I'm at the Fine Carrier Balance Adjustment section (Page 19 in the KSB2 
Manual), and am not sure how to hear the K2's transmitted signal on a 
external receiver.

Since the K2 is connected to a dummy load, am I to run a short piece of wire 
from the external receiver and locate it near the dummy load to hear this?

Thanks, Steve
NE7RD
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[Fwd: Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 Fine Carrier Adjustment]

2007-04-06 Thread Don Wilhelm

I noticed this did not go to the list - I intended it to!  73, Don W3FPR

 Original Message 
Steve,

Yes, just put a short length of wire on the other receiver and adjust
the spacing, length of antenna and other things so you get about an S-9
or just a bit higher signal on the receiver with a CW signal - then you
can switch to SSB and find the carrier.  Adjust the pot until you have
the smallest amount of carrier.

If you have a 'scope with a 10X probe that will display 50 to 100
millivolts per division, just connect that 'scope across the dummy load
and you can observe the carrier as an RF voltage.  It is usually easier
than setting up a separate receiver.

You do not have to connect a microphone (better if you don't, there will
be no mic pickup to confuse things), just plug in the paddles and close
the dot side, that is the same as pressing PTT.

Suggestions - use 40 meters, and adjust LSB first, then check USB and if
necessary touch up the adjustment but go back and forth between
sidebands until you have both about the same - there may have to be a
small compromise between sidebands.

73,
Don W3FPR

Steve Watkins wrote:

Thanks to Jerry, WA2DKG, I got past the Deaf K2 by plugging the speaker into 
the P5 on the RF board vs. the Control Board.  I'm not sure how or where I missed that it 
should be plugged in there, but it works, so things weren't shorted after all on the KSB2 
board.

Now I'm at the Fine Carrier Balance Adjustment section (Page 19 in the KSB2 Manual), 
and am not sure how to hear the K2's transmitted signal on a external receiver.

Since the K2 is connected to a dummy load, am I to run a short piece of wire 
from the external receiver and locate it near the dummy load to hear this?

Thanks, Steve
NE7RD


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[Elecraft] KSB2

2007-03-31 Thread Phil Zminda
I just finished my KSB2 and was ready to get it checked out with the mike, but 
I accidently put the 16 pin header on the wrong side of the Control Board. I 
was able to get it out but not without ruining it. Other than being more 
convenient to change mikes, any real need for the header? Do any of you 
dispense with  the header and just wire to the pcb pads? I'd rather not wait 
for a replacement. I can allways install it later if I need to make a change.

Phil N3ZP
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[Elecraft] KSB2 Bandwidth modification

2007-03-05 Thread Barry, Stephen
Question for the K2 listserv.

 

 

I have a K2 (s/n 377) and the KSB2 with the normal 2.1 KHz. bandwidth
configuration.  I get excellent audio reports but it is narrow.  I'm
thinking of  purchasing another KSB2 board and want to make it either
2.4 or 2.6 KHz.   

 

For any who may have made the modification, do you think 2.4 would make
much difference or should I just go for the 2.6 KHz. B/W,. and are there
any considerations when opening it up that far?

 

Your thoughts

 

Thanks,  

 

Steve, AE2G

 

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RE: [Elecraft] KSB2 Bandwidth modification

2007-03-05 Thread Siu Johnny

Hi Steve,

It is a worthwhile exrecise.  You do not only get a wider band width but 
also less ripple within the pass band.  There is an upgrade kit available 
from Elecraft and you have no need to change the entire KSB2 board.  I 
would suggest 2.4Khz because this will give you good sound quality with 
reasonable selectivity.  2.6Khz is too wide for me.  For most voice 
operation, 2.4khz is the norm.


73

Johnny Siu VR2XMC




From: Barry, Stephen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KSB2 Bandwidth modification
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2007 13:32:23 -0500

Question for the K2 listserv.





I have a K2 (s/n 377) and the KSB2 with the normal 2.1 KHz. bandwidth
configuration.  I get excellent audio reports but it is narrow.  I'm
thinking of  purchasing another KSB2 board and want to make it either
2.4 or 2.6 KHz.



For any who may have made the modification, do you think 2.4 would make
much difference or should I just go for the 2.6 KHz. B/W,. and are there
any considerations when opening it up that far?



Your thoughts



Thanks,



Steve, AE2G

_
Hotmail Extra Storage讓你獲得10MB 額外儲存空間,請即申請! 
http://join.msn.com/?pgmarket=zh-hk 


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[Elecraft] KSB2 SSB Use Report

2007-02-21 Thread Scheidler, Dale A.
I wanted to report that the K2 (#5230) with KSB2 SSB board and Kenwood
MC
43S mic was used for my first contact with a local ham.  He has a K2 and
was interested in hearing my radio because he has never heard a K2 voice
transmission.  Said I sounded fine and the mic and board were working
well.
 
73,
Dale, kc9cwb

 

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[Elecraft] KSB2 - need to configure P1 before coarse carrier balance?

2007-01-30 Thread ub5_073_oleg
Hi,

I'm currently checking/aligning my KSB2. The microphone is
not purchased until now, but I still wanted to adjust KSB2
tonight as far as I could.

Can I do a coarse carrier adjustment without configuring P1
first? (R1 has no effect on field strength, S-meter is zero)
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[Elecraft] KSB2 SSB Adapter problem

2006-12-27 Thread Håkan Olsson

I have just put together the KSB2 SSB ADAPTER and I have problems.

Referring to the manual on page 15 “Initial Test” the last paragraph 
“Verify that the K2 performs...” I do not get any sound in the 
loudspeaker, or the sound I get is very very muted. I can hear some very 
faint - both CW and SSB – signals but only when the volume is turned up 
to max.


Else there is no problem doing the “BFO Test”, “Receive-Mode SSB Filter 
Test” and “BFO Setup for LSB/USB”


I have checked the voltages as seen on page 23 in the manual and found 
the following anomalies in receive mode:


U1-21... zero volt (should be 5.8)
U2-5 6.0 volt (should be 0.6)
U4-3 6.0 volt (should be 0.6)

D10-D13 and D6-D9... no voltage in receive mode.

So, what could be the matter?

73 de
Håkan / SM6EQO

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RE: [Elecraft] KSB2 SSB Adapter problem

2006-12-27 Thread Don Wilhelm
Haken,

At this point, do not be concerned about those voltages you found did not
agree with the chart in the manual.

The no voltages at the diodes is a cause for concern.  The problem may be in
where you measured for voltage or the settings you were using.  We will get
to that.

Let's verify that the source for the diode switching voltages are correct:
First thing, set the SSB FL1 filter to OP1 (using the K2 menu).  Set the K2
to SSB mode and be certain FL1 is selected.  Now measure the voltage at U1
pin 21 (should be about 6 volts), and measure the voltage at U1 pin 22
(should be near zero volts).

Now, switch to CW mode (any of the CW filters is OK), and measure the
voltage at U1 pin 21 (should now be near zero volts) and U1 pin 22 (should
now be near 6 volts).  You should also find about 6 volts at the cathode of
D7 and D8 and at the cahode of D11 and D12.  If you do not have these
voltages present, check to be certain RFC1 and RFC2 are not shorting to the
crystal cases (insert a sheet of paper between the choke and the crystal as
an insulator).

If all the checks above are correct, switch back to SSB mode, FL1 (OP1)
filter and check for about 6 volts at the cathode of D6 and D9 and at the
cathode of D10, D13 and D14.

If you find all those voltages correct, the filters should switch between
the CW filter and the SSB filter.

Just as information if you are following the schematic - the RXC signal
indicates that receive should be through the CW filter when this signal is
active (about 6 volts), and RXS indicates that the receive path is through
the SSB filter when this signal is active.

Make the checks above, and if that did not lead you to fine the source of
the problem, send us your report of your findings.

73,
Don W3FPR


 -Original Message-

 I have just put together the KSB2 SSB ADAPTER and I have problems.

 Referring to the manual on page 15 “Initial Test” the last paragraph
 “Verify that the K2 performs...” I do not get any sound in the
 loudspeaker, or the sound I get is very very muted. I can hear some very
 faint - both CW and SSB – signals but only when the volume is turned up
 to max.

 Else there is no problem doing the “BFO Test”, “Receive-Mode SSB Filter
 Test” and “BFO Setup for LSB/USB”

 I have checked the voltages as seen on page 23 in the manual and found
 the following anomalies in receive mode:

 U1-21... zero volt (should be 5.8)
 U2-5 6.0 volt (should be 0.6)
 U4-3 6.0 volt (should be 0.6)

 D10-D13 and D6-D9... no voltage in receive mode.

 So, what could be the matter?

 73 de
 Håkan / SM6EQO

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Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 SSB Adapter problem

2006-12-27 Thread Håkan Olsson
Don, it was a short betwen either RFC1 or RFC2 and one of the crystal 
cases that caused the problem.


Really embarassing because it was basically the first and only real 
problem I have come upon building my K2 #5810 and all the extras... :-)


It's so easy to happen that I really think it should be pointed out in 
the manual.


73 de
Haakan / SM6EQO

--



Don Wilhelm skrev:

Haken,

At this point, do not be concerned about those voltages you found did not
agree with the chart in the manual.

The no voltages at the diodes is a cause for concern.  The problem may be in
where you measured for voltage or the settings you were using.  We will get
to that.

Let's verify that the source for the diode switching voltages are correct:
First thing, set the SSB FL1 filter to OP1 (using the K2 menu).  Set the K2
to SSB mode and be certain FL1 is selected.  Now measure the voltage at U1
pin 21 (should be about 6 volts), and measure the voltage at U1 pin 22
(should be near zero volts).

Now, switch to CW mode (any of the CW filters is OK), and measure the
voltage at U1 pin 21 (should now be near zero volts) and U1 pin 22 (should
now be near 6 volts).  You should also find about 6 volts at the cathode of
D7 and D8 and at the cahode of D11 and D12.  If you do not have these
voltages present, check to be certain RFC1 and RFC2 are not shorting to the
crystal cases (insert a sheet of paper between the choke and the crystal as
an insulator).

If all the checks above are correct, switch back to SSB mode, FL1 (OP1)
filter and check for about 6 volts at the cathode of D6 and D9 and at the
cathode of D10, D13 and D14.

If you find all those voltages correct, the filters should switch between
the CW filter and the SSB filter.

Just as information if you are following the schematic - the RXC signal
indicates that receive should be through the CW filter when this signal is
active (about 6 volts), and RXS indicates that the receive path is through
the SSB filter when this signal is active.

Make the checks above, and if that did not lead you to fine the source of
the problem, send us your report of your findings.

73,
Don W3FPR


  

-Original Message-

I have just put together the KSB2 SSB ADAPTER and I have problems.

Referring to the manual on page 15 “Initial Test” the last paragraph
“Verify that the K2 performs...” I do not get any sound in the
loudspeaker, or the sound I get is very very muted. I can hear some very
faint - both CW and SSB – signals but only when the volume is turned up
to max.

Else there is no problem doing the “BFO Test”, “Receive-Mode SSB Filter
Test” and “BFO Setup for LSB/USB”

I have checked the voltages as seen on page 23 in the manual and found
the following anomalies in receive mode:

U1-21... zero volt (should be 5.8)
U2-5 6.0 volt (should be 0.6)
U4-3 6.0 volt (should be 0.6)

D10-D13 and D6-D9... no voltage in receive mode.

So, what could be the matter?

73 de
Håkan / SM6EQO



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12:21 PM

  

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[Elecraft] KSB2 board - should be renamed.

2006-11-17 Thread Darwin, Keith
I started the KSB2 last night.  Between interruptions, I got about 1/2
way through.
 
I think the board should be renamed.  Call it the 103 board.  Man are
there a bunch of blue 103 caps to install!
 
With tonight's effort I just may have the rig ready for some SSB action
this weekend.
 
- Keith N1AS -
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[Elecraft] KSB2 no audio output

2006-11-13 Thread ve2ssl
Hi,

My SSB module worked fine before. I add my kpa100 and every test went well.
I test my kat100 and every test went well until I did the last test with the
dummy load. Now my Mic is sending a tone. No more voice. But the power still
there.

Is any body had this probleme?

Best regard and best 73's

Sylvain
Ve2SSL
Sylvain St-Louis
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RE: [Elecraft] KSB2 no audio output

2006-11-13 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Are you still in SSB mode or perhaps did the MODE button get bumped to put
you in CW mode?? 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
Hi,

My SSB module worked fine before. I add my kpa100 and every test went well.
I test my kat100 and every test went well until I did the last test with the
dummy load. Now my Mic is sending a tone. No more voice. But the power still
there.

Is any body had this probleme?

Best regard and best 73's

Sylvain
Ve2SSL

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[Elecraft] KSB2 ALC Mod

2006-08-15 Thread Roy Morris
Some time ago I installed the PN amp mod to my KSB2 board to increase the 
10 meter SSB output on my QRP K2.  Later I added the KPA100.  John (KI6WX) said 
the KSB2 amp mod was no longer needed since adequate output is obtained on 10 
meters.  I have since removed this PN amp mod.
However, at the time I had the mod installed I had to do another mod suggested 
by Gary Surrency to keep the balanced modulator from overdriving the ALC when 
using PTT.  This KSB2 mod replaces R9 with a 1.5K resistor and a 1K resistor is 
placed across a cut trace between Q1's base and pin 6 of P1 connector.  I am 
wondering if I should undo this mod since I no longer have the PN amp mod.  
I am not aware of any adverse effect on my SSB signal.   Roy Morris  W4WFBNo virus found in this outgoing message.
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RE:[Elecraft]KSB2

2006-07-27 Thread Richard Kent
Before you send it off. Check the diodes. I installed 1 backwards and got
the same issues. I am referring to the switching diodes on both ends of the
crystal filter.

 

Richard Kent, WD8AJG

 

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[Elecraft] KSB2

2006-07-26 Thread Fred Jensen

Hi all,

Although I operate almost no SSB, I built the KSB2 for my K2 (#4398) 
late last year so I could use the K2 for RTTY contests.  It seems to do 
everything a well conditioned KSB2 should do except it exhibits about 30 
dB loss through the on-board filter.  Thus, the SSB output from the K2 
is in the milliwatt range and the RX level drops very noticably with the 
OP1 filter selected.  I haven't had the time to figure it all out, and 
it's a bit tough since my test equipment is limited to a DMM, old Tek 
scope, and a very old service monitor.


Given the likely cost of commercial repair through Elecraft, I decided 
I'd just build another KSB2, and it came today.  This will leave me with 
the slightly-under-the-weather unit for which I have no use.


If someone would like to mess around with it, I'll send it to you.  All 
I ask is a charitable donation.  I'll suggest a favorite charity, but it 
and the amount would really be up to you.


I'd be able to mail it as soon as I get the new one built and working 
(without it, my beloved K2 is dead, of course and I can't take that).  I 
may have it built and done by the weekend.


I'll pick the first email that arrives.

73,

Fred K6DGW
Auburn CA CM98lw
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RE: [Elecraft] KSB2

2006-07-26 Thread Dan Barker
I think you should keep the KSB2 until the new one is finished also, BUT...

The statement without it, my beloved K2 is dead is not true. Just stick a
couple jumpers in the short jacks (1 to 3), and a [I Forgot] pF cap in the
big one, between 5 and 7 if memory serves.

Dan / WG4S / K2 #2 456

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RE: [Elecraft] KSB2

2006-07-26 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Fred, take care not to put too much solder on the pins of the crystals when
you install them in your new KSB2. One of the most common reasons for low
gain is a bit of solder that puddled around the pin under the crystal can
where you can't see it and shorting the signal path to the can. Remember,
those are plated through holes, so when solder melts and flows on the bottom
side, it's melted and flowing on the top side under the crystal too! 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-

Fred, K6DGW wrote:

Although I operate almost no SSB, I built the KSB2 for my K2 (#4398) 
late last year so I could use the K2 for RTTY contests.  It seems to do 
everything a well conditioned KSB2 should do except it exhibits about 30 
dB loss through the on-board filter.  Thus, the SSB output from the K2 
is in the milliwatt range and the RX level drops very noticably with the 
OP1 filter selected.  I haven't had the time to figure it all out, and 
it's a bit tough since my test equipment is limited to a DMM, old Tek 
scope, and a very old service monitor.


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[Elecraft] KSB2 and microphone gain

2006-06-30 Thread Piet Meindertsma
I just completed a number of mods for the SSB module, described by KI6W 
('Improving the Performance of the KSB2'), by DF7KHK (increase of audio 
compression) and by DJ3FR (change R8 and R10 to 560 Ohm). After these 
modification I played a bit with the radio. During a contest last 
weekend I noticed that the SSB signal is fine. When listening to my own 
microphone signal (SSBA set to BAL), I noticed that the audio level 
varies by the band chosen (listening to the audio with a headphone). As 
with the SSBA set to BAL the output of the KSB2 is directly fed into the 
IF of the K2 receiver, I would expect a more constant level. My test 
results (using the S-meter as an indication for the signal strength) below:


band  signal strength
160m  S9+40
40m  S9
30m  S9
20m  S7
17m  S8
15m  S9
12m  S9
10m  S9

As you can see:
the signal is very strong when the K2 is set to 160 meters and 
relatively weak at 20 meter. I am not (yet) complaining, just very 
curious how this difference can be explained.
(When I have some time again I want to perform the same tests, but than 
transmitting into a dummy oad and using an Icom 706 as a monitor receiver).


Piet, PA1PM

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[Elecraft] KSB2 R15

2006-06-29 Thread Mike Short
I am building the KSB2, and R15 (180 ohms) is missing. Can I substitute a
220 ohm resistor for this? It is the attten signal on the Mic AF. 
 
Mike
AI4NS
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Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 in K2/100

2006-06-19 Thread John, KI6WX
I know this message is a bit old, but I've been too tied up with other 
projects to read the reflector mail for the last two months (fyi - the 
reflector generated over 2000 emails in the last 2 months).


The increased gain mod I did for the KSB2 was originally designed to 
increase the transmit gain in SSB for a barefoot K2.  The original K2 had 
difficulty reaching 10 watts of power output in SSB on 10 meters.  When you 
drove the audio input harder to get to full power, the K2 would start to 
clip on the audio peaks.  This does not create a wider bandwidth signal 
because the SSB modulator is followed by the SSB filter, but it does 
increase the audio distortion.  I added the extra emitter follower stage to 
increase the overall IF gain in the SSB transmit signal path.


This mod should not be necessary with the KPA100, since it can reach full 
power with only a few watts of drive.  Some folks have reported that the 
emitter follower stage can cause power output instability when the KPA100 is 
installed.  There is at least one fix around that reduces the gain of the 
emitter follower stage by increasing the emitter resistor value and 
apparently eliminates this instability.  I would recommend that the emitter 
follower gain stage not be used in a K2/100 since it does appear to cause a 
stability problem, and there is no need for the extra gain on 10 meters.


-John
KI6WX

- Original Message - 
From: Roy Morris [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Sent: Saturday, June 03, 2006 9:41 AM


I would like to hear from anyone who has K2/100s with both the unmodified 
KSB2 and the modified KSB2 with the KI6WX 2N amp mod (and 1.08 
firmware).  How does this mod affect mic gain and VOX operation?  How does 
the absence of this mod affect mic gain and VOX operation?  Does the mod 
help SSB modulation on 10 meters with the power level set at 5 watts?  Do 
you find this mod helpful at 100 watts?  Thanks for your input.  Roy Morris 
W4WFB


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Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 in K2/100

2006-06-19 Thread Rick Dettinger
John - KI6WX said:
(fyi - the 
 reflector generated over 2000 emails in the last 2 months).
==
No wonder I havn't got the house painted!
Rick Dettinger
K7MW

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[Elecraft] KSB2 in K2/100

2006-06-03 Thread Roy Morris
I would like to hear from anyone who has K2/100s with both the unmodified KSB2 
and the modified KSB2 with the KI6WX 2N amp mod (and 1.08 firmware).  How 
does this mod affect mic gain and VOX operation?  How does the absence of this 
mod affect mic gain and VOX operation?  Does the mod help SSB modulation on 10 
meters with the power level set at 5 watts?  Do you find this mod helpful at 
100 watts?  Thanks for your input.  Roy Morris  W4WFB  No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.8.1/355 - Release Date: 6/2/2006
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RE: [Elecraft] KSB2 in K2/100

2006-06-03 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
It's very unlikely you'd find any benefit from using this mod running 5
watts PEP on any band. That mod was specifically to provide full K2 output
for those units who, because of the combination of the particular K2 and mic
used, don't make a full 10 watts PEP output on all bands. The mod would help
at 100 watts in the same sense that it helps at 10 watts: it provides the
overall gain to make sure one can get a full 100 watts PEP on all bands. 

In SSB mode, the power output from the K2 is a function of the overall gain
of the transmitter RF system and, within limits, the amount of audio
supplied to the balanced modulator. The overall gain of the transmitter RF
system falls off at the higher frequencies and is usually the least on 10
meters. So most operators who notice low output notice it on 10 meters. 

Of course, there's a limit to amount of audio the balanced modulator can
handle, so simply adding audio gain isn't always the best choice. Indeed,
excess audio gain can backfire with distortion, although the speech
amplifier I.C. used in the K2 has an internal automatic gain control that
should limit the distortion in most situations. 

John took a different approach with his 2N mod. He increased the
transmit RF path gain mostly by providing a better impedance match at the
output of the balanced modulator. His notes say that it provides about 10 dB
of gain. 

I'm using an electret mic that, with my particular K2, provides full SSB
output from 160 through 10 meters, although there is very little headroom
at 10 meters. I get just 10 watts output in SSB mode on 10 meters without
the KPA100 switched in and 100 watts PEP with the KPA100. Although I've not
added John's mod, it has been on my to do list in case I'd like to play
with a microphone with less output. 

I can say from first-hand experience helping John test some of his mods and
through incorporating them on my K2 that John's mods are well thought out,
well engineered and have always worked very well. Several of his mods have
become in integral part of the K2 as currently shipped.

Ron AC7AC


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Roy Morris
Sent: Saturday, June 03, 2006 9:42 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KSB2 in K2/100


I would like to hear from anyone who has K2/100s with both the unmodified
KSB2 and the modified KSB2 with the KI6WX 2N amp mod (and 1.08
firmware).  How does this mod affect mic gain and VOX operation?  How does
the absence of this mod affect mic gain and VOX operation?  Does the mod
help SSB modulation on 10 meters with the power level set at 5 watts?  Do
you find this mod helpful at 100 watts?  Thanks for your input.  Roy Morris
W4WFB  

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Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 in K2/100

2006-06-03 Thread Jack Brindle

Roy;

I'm confused. Previous posts indicate you have already made this mod  
(and the secondary ALC mod) to your KSB2. If so, what have you found?


I am contemplating the mod (and possibly the secondary ALC mod) for  
my K2/100. Thus I am very interested in comments on both mods...



On Jun 3, 2006, at 9:41 AM, Roy Morris wrote:

I would like to hear from anyone who has K2/100s with both the  
unmodified KSB2 and the modified KSB2 with the KI6WX 2N amp mod  
(and 1.08 firmware).  How does this mod affect mic gain and VOX  
operation?  How does the absence of this mod affect mic gain and  
VOX operation?  Does the mod help SSB modulation on 10 meters with  
the power level set at 5 watts?  Do you find this mod helpful at  
100 watts?  Thanks for your input.  Roy Morris  W4WFB  No virus  
found in this outgoing message.

Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.8.1/355 - Release Date:  
6/2/2006

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- Jack Brindle, W6FB
 
-



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Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 in K2/100

2006-06-03 Thread Stewart Baker
Roy,

As this mod is after the balanced modulator it does nothing to affect the mic 
gain or improve the VOX operation.

73
Stewart G3RXQ

On Sat, 3 Jun 2006 12:41:42 -0400, Roy Morris wrote:
 I would like to hear from anyone who has K2/100s with both the unmodified
 KSB2 and the modified KSB2 with the KI6WX 2N amp mod (and 1.08 firmware).
  How does this mod affect mic gain and VOX operation?  How does the absence
 of this mod affect mic gain and VOX operation?  Does the mod help SSB
 modulation on 10 meters with the power level set at 5 watts?  Do you find
 this mod helpful at 100 watts?  Thanks for your input.  Roy Morris  W4WFB


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RE: [Elecraft] KSB2 P1 Wiring Questions

2006-04-05 Thread Don Wilhelm
I just wonder why would a K2 owner want to spend good money for one of those
solely to jumper the mic lines.  There is a header to do the same thing on
the rear of the front panel.  Elecraft designed it so you can interface any
mic to the K2, but I still believe it is easier to re-wire the mic plug as
required.
73, Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-

 There is a new item from MFJ that people may find helpful when
 interfacing a
 mic to the K2. Its an MFJ-655 mic equalizer/conditioner/preamp that is
 supposed to interface any mic to just about any rig. It takes two
 types of
 mic connectors and the jumpering is done in the MFJ-655. You can use the
 standard setup with 2 pin jumper blocks in the K2 and not have to
 make any
 changes there. I don't have one but I think I will buy it soon.
 Read about
 it on the MFJ website.



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RE: [Elecraft] KSB2 P1 Wiring Questions

2006-04-05 Thread Phil Kane
On Wed, 5 Apr 2006 08:22:01 -0400, Don Wilhelm wrote:

 There is a new item from MFJ that people may find helpful when
 interfacing a mic to the K2. Its an MFJ-655 mic equalizer/conditioner/
 preamp that is supposed to interface any mic to just about any rig.

I just wonder why would a K2 owner want to spend good money for one
of those solely to jumper the mic lines.

  But but but the MFJ gadget costs in the $150 range.  Got to keep
  the economy of Mississippi going after the hurricanes!!

--
   73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane

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[Elecraft] KSB2 P1 Wiring Questions

2006-04-04 Thread n7on
Fellow Elecrafters--

I've successfully completed the KSB2 module for my K2/100 through p. 16
in the manual, front panel PCB component installation.

Now it's time for mic configuration, p. 17.  Winding toroids, soldering
multi-pin connectors and IC's, stuffing capacitors, etc.--those I don't
mind.  However, when it comes to mic configuration and the possibility of
fouling up my K2 via an incorrectly-wired 5V line--that's when I get
jittery.

Here are the details:

1) Initial mic to be used:  Kenwood MC-60
2) Eventual mic to be used:  Radio Shack RS 33-1187 headset
3) P1 wiring method:  N0SS's computer plug (thanks for the info on your
website, Tom) or two-pin jumpers--both are at hand.

After studying the KSB2 manual and reading postings in the Elecraft
reflector archives, here are some questions:

1) Several reflector postings mention that for Kenwood settings, just use
jumpers straight across for all the Signal and Mic pin connections. 
However, on p. 18 under Kenwood mics, there's a note:  Do not connect
pin 5 unless mic has internal preamp,  and another, Leave pin 6 of the
mic unconnected.

I plead ignorance--does the MC-60 have an internal preamp?  If it does,
according to the manual I should connect signal pin 6 to mic pin 5.

2) I've read a posting that mentions leaving the bottom slide switch on
the MC-60 off.  Done.  Wonder if this negates the warning listed above
and I should just leave signal pin 6 (5V) unconnected?

3) The MC-60 has two impedance settings, 50K and 500--is there a
preferred setting with the K2?

4) Any suggestions for wiring an 8-pin female mic plug from the RS
33-1187 that'll be compatible with Kenwood P1 settings?

Finally, it's been mentioned before but for those who need it here's the
Radio Shack part number for a package of ten two-pin jumpers:  276-1512.

73,

John, N7ON K2/100 S/N 5023

P.S.  Many thanks to Elecraft's Gary and Richard as well as to N6WG and
WB6TQG for their continued assistance with the KSB2, microphones, and
RTTY.
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RE: [Elecraft] KSB2 P1 Wiring Questions

2006-04-04 Thread Don Wilhelm
Folks,

My advice on mic wiring - unless you must use the mics with multiple rigs,
wire the mic configuration header for the Elecraft mics, and then change the
wiring at the mic plug to match the Elecraft configuration.

By doing that, it certainly simplifies things a whole lot.  I see no sense
in wiring your Elecraft rig to work with a Yaesu mic (for instance) since
that slaves you forevermore to using the Yaesu mic wiring configuaration.
IMHO, if you have only an Elecraft station, the mic plugs should be wired
for the Elecraft configuration. -- If you must use the mics on multiple
rigs, then yes, I can understand that you might want to use that
manufacturers mic wiring on your K2 so you can connect any mic wired for
that rig, but lacking that, I say, change the mic wiring to the Elecraft mic
wiring and you cannot go wrong.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-

 I've successfully completed the KSB2 module for my K2/100 through p. 16
 in the manual, front panel PCB component installation.

 Now it's time for mic configuration, p. 17.  Winding toroids, soldering
 multi-pin connectors and IC's, stuffing capacitors, etc.--those I don't
 mind.  However, when it comes to mic configuration and the possibility of
 fouling up my K2 via an incorrectly-wired 5V line--that's when I get
 jittery.

 Here are the details:

 1) Initial mic to be used:  Kenwood MC-60
 2) Eventual mic to be used:  Radio Shack RS 33-1187 headset
 3) P1 wiring method:  N0SS's computer plug (thanks for the info on your
 website, Tom) or two-pin jumpers--both are at hand.

 After studying the KSB2 manual and reading postings in the Elecraft
 reflector archives, here are some questions:

 1) Several reflector postings mention that for Kenwood settings, just use
 jumpers straight across for all the Signal and Mic pin connections.
 However, on p. 18 under Kenwood mics, there's a note:  Do not connect
 pin 5 unless mic has internal preamp,  and another, Leave pin 6 of the
 mic unconnected.

 I plead ignorance--does the MC-60 have an internal preamp?  If it does,
 according to the manual I should connect signal pin 6 to mic pin 5.

 2) I've read a posting that mentions leaving the bottom slide switch on
 the MC-60 off.  Done.  Wonder if this negates the warning listed above
 and I should just leave signal pin 6 (5V) unconnected?

 3) The MC-60 has two impedance settings, 50K and 500--is there a
 preferred setting with the K2?

 4) Any suggestions for wiring an 8-pin female mic plug from the RS
 33-1187 that'll be compatible with Kenwood P1 settings?

 Finally, it's been mentioned before but for those who need it here's the
 Radio Shack part number for a package of ten two-pin jumpers:  276-1512.

 73,

 John, N7ON K2/100 S/N 5023


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[Elecraft] KSB2 Missing parts

2006-03-25 Thread Stephen John Farthing
Hi, I have just checked my inventory for the KSB2 and seem to be short 
of all of the components for mounting on the front panel board, i.e. : -


P1, c4-c8,q3,rp3,rbias and R13,

It seems to me that the parts must all have been in 1 envelope and this 
was omitted from my kit. Before I contact Elecraft for replacements I 
wonder if someone could confirm this so I can check the shack to see if 
the envelope has been stolen by the underpants gnomes.


Thanks,

Steve G0XAR
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RE: [Elecraft] KSB2 Missing parts

2006-03-25 Thread Don Wilhelm
Steve,

Unless something has changed at Elecraft packaging recently, those parts are
mixed in with all the rest (not packaged in a separate envelope).  So if you
have sorted all the parts and they are still not present, a note to
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] would seem to be in order.

Unless of course, you had extracted them earlier and already installed them
on the front panel board - check for the mic header on the back of the Front
Panel board.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-

 Hi, I have just checked my inventory for the KSB2 and seem to be short
 of all of the components for mounting on the front panel board, i.e. : -

 P1, c4-c8,q3,rp3,rbias and R13,

 It seems to me that the parts must all have been in 1 envelope and this
 was omitted from my kit. Before I contact Elecraft for replacements I
 wonder if someone could confirm this so I can check the shack to see if
 the envelope has been stolen by the underpants gnomes.

 Thanks,

 Steve G0XAR
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 --
 No virus found in this incoming message.
 Checked by AVG Free Edition.
 Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.3.1/292 - Release Date: 3/24/2006



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[Elecraft] KSB2 problem

2006-03-23 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
I recently bought a KSB2 that was advertised here. It's an early release,
rev B board, so I picked up a number of update kits and started assembly,
slowly and carefully, as Gary advises. I got through it in a couple
of evenings.

Last night, I installed it in my K2 and got INFO 080. Drat! I was so
slow and careful! I checked voltages on the MCU, they were fine, so
I got the silly scope out to see if there was AUXBUS traffic on pin 28
where there should be. 

Yes, there was. And ... also on pin 27! That can't be good. I inspected
carefully for solder bridges, found none. I contemplated diking out
part of the socket to ease removal. Gary suggested heating the pins
and wiggling. Ultimately, I clamped the thing in the vise, put on
my finest soldering tip, and sucked up the solder, pin by pin. After
about three passes, I was able to remove the socket, intact, and
no damage was done to the board. 

I inspect the socket, no joy.
I inspect the top of the board ... no joy! 
Pins 27 and 28 are 0.1 ohms. Drat.

I lift R12 to isolate that part of the board ... still beeping.
Bright light, magnifier, ask my XYL to look, too. Nothing. Finally
decide to put it away for the night.

Then I go give it one more.  I thought that perhaps the trace
that comes off pin 27 had grown too much and was touching the pad for 28,
so I scraped away the solder mask. No joy. 

I started contemplating where I could cut a trace to divide the problem
and still make a reasonable, perhaps invisible repair. As I did, I noticed
a slightly darker spot around pin 1, between the traces from 27 and 28.

Sure enough, there must have been just a stray bit of resist laid
down there, about half a hair's width, because there was copper under
the mask connecting the traces. 

Free! Free! Pins 27 and 28 are free again! It's tempting, but I'm not
going to rush soldering the socket back in and then rush a test. I'll
do it tomorrow when I can go through the whole procedure and update
the front panel, too.

One for the archives...

73 de chris K6DBG
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