Re: [Chevelle-list] fuel gauge

2008-06-11 Thread Mike Holleman
Harlan, It sounds like the sender is shorted out or the wire to the sender is 
shorted to ground. When I test a gauge I ground the sender wire and the gauge 
will read full plus if the gauge is good. Try uhooking the sender wire from the 
gauge to see if it drops to empty. 
Mike
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
  Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2008 4:39 PM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] fuel gauge


  on the 70 chevelle the fuel gauge sits at way past full and stays there.. 
what might be the cause??


  thank you
  Harlan





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8:32 AM


Re: [Chevelle-list] Sandblaster Question: Off Topic

2008-06-09 Thread Mike Holleman
Kyle, The easy fill style has a handle with an inverted disc to rubber gasket 
seal. You lift the handle as you pressurize the tank and it self seals. I have 
this type and I'm very pleased with it.
Mike Holleman
  - Original Message - 
  From: Kyle Bennett 
  To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 
  Sent: Monday, June 09, 2008 7:57 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Sandblaster Question: Off Topic


  So I'm assuming the second one has some kind of cap or plug that closes off 
the fill hole. I see that the first one has a closeable screw on cap over the 
fill hole.

   

  Kyle

   

  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Rick Schaefer
  Sent: Monday, June 09, 2008 7:48 PM
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Sandblaster Question: Off Topic

   

 They operate the same, only difference is capacity.   I have the 
first one & used it this AM for the first time in ages, worked fine for me.
With either of those, you will need a 60 or 80 gallon compressor.I just 
upgraded my compressor last fall, today was the first time I used it with the 
larger tank.   I was using a 30 gallon sears compressor & I was continuosly 
waiting for it to refill.   The new (60 gal) was not near so annoying.

  On Mon, Jun 9, 2008 at 6:41 PM, Kyle Bennett <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

  Just wanted to run this past the list before I made the wrong decision. 

   

  Well, I'm looking for a small sandblaster for small jobs. And I noticed that 
one has a different look vs. the other so I'm sure the is a difference in 
something, I'm just not sure which is better. They are both similar in price 
but which one is better? Any pros or cons of one vs. the other. Thanks for any 
input.

   

  http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=95014

   

  http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93889

   

  Thanks,

  Kyle




  -- 
  Rick Schaefer
  72 TPI El Camino



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Re: [Chevelle-list] brake question

2008-05-08 Thread Mike Holleman
They make a long shaft approx. an inch long and a short shaft. This is the 
shaft that goes in to the back of the MC. Obviously the long shaft won't go in 
the short MC. Be sure that the short has a matching short hole MC.
Mike 
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
  Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 12:23 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] brake question


  In a message dated 5/8/2008 11:17:16 A.M. Central Daylight Time, [EMAIL 
PROTECTED] writes:
Nope. Not as long as the shaft length into the MC is the same.
Mike  
  thank you
  how do i know how long it should be? if it pushes in the piston all the way?





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5:23 PM


Re: [Chevelle-list] brake question

2008-05-08 Thread Mike Holleman
Nope. Not as long as the shaft length into the MC is the same.
Mike  
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
  Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 11:53 AM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] brake question


  if you have 4-wheel drum power brakes and upgrade to front discs. do you have 
to change the booster too??


  thanks
  Harlan





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5:23 PM


Re: [Chevelle-list] tubular front end

2008-05-07 Thread Mike Holleman
I've installed both Hotchkis and Global West  on early Abodys. Both are high 
quality and do improve handling. You really need to do the whole package at the 
same time. Suspension and brakes. One has the work and fit with the other. I 
recently did a 66 with Global west, ATS spindles, Baer brakes and Hotchkis sway 
bar. It works really well. A night and day difference in handling and stopping.
Mike Holleman   
  - Original Message - 
  From: Peebles, Lorne (Services) 
  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
  Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2008 10:31 AM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] tubular front end


  Hi I was wondering if anyone has had experience with the tubular front end 
kits out there. Any preference or disappointment with certain products. I have 
a 66 Chevelle Malibu originally a 6 now with 402. Standard steering and 
standard brakes which I will be upgrading as I can afford. So what I am looking 
for is really the best bang for my buck. There are so many options out there. 
Can't decide which maker to go with. Any preference on brake upgrades as well 
would be great.

   

  Lorne

   

  Saint John

  New Brunswick 



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7:46 AM


Re: [Chevelle-list] Another Question HELP PLEASE!

2008-05-03 Thread Mike Holleman
Dave, The 700r4 does not use a kickdown cable. The cable is a TV cable, 
throttle valve. You need to get the right brackets and make sure it is adjusted 
correctly or your 700r4 will die a quick death. The 700 is not computor 
controlled. The one wire needed would be for the lockup converter if you are 
using one and the trans will have to have the internal solenoid installed to 
control this if used. One of the best ways to switch this is by changing your 
brake light switch to one for use with cruise control. It has two functions, 
one normally open, one normally closed. Get a little professional help on this 
conversion and you will be very happy with the OD trans.
Mike
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dave Benjamin 
  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
  Sent: Friday, May 02, 2008 9:21 PM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] Another Question HELP PLEASE!


  Got my Beaumont out of storage and drove it last weekend. I got a new job 
that is a 25 min. drive back and forth and will be putting on lots of miles. I 
am putting a 700 R4 ( gas price ) in and was wondering if any one has wiring 
diagrams for it or any one has done this and What will I run into. I already 
made new drive shaft, have new throttle bracket for kick down cable. Also 
bought speedometer piece that will take a cable. Was also wondering what kind 
of gear I will have in first with 336 and 15" tires?

  Any Help very much appreciated.

  Thank you
  Dave
  Ingersoll,Ontario
  My Web Site: http://members.tripod.com/benj30/


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8:02 AM


Re: [Chevelle-list] 1965 Frame & Rearend

2008-04-24 Thread Mike Holleman
I did post that awhile back. The only difference is the distance between the 
last two body mount positions in the rear. 3.25 inches.  By shortening the 
frame rails 3.25 inches the elky chassis will bolt up to the Chevelle body.
Mike
  - Original Message - 
  From: William Piper 
  To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 
  Sent: Wednesday, April 23, 2008 8:57 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 1965 Frame & Rearend


  Mike,

   

  I'm interested in the difference between the two frames as well. Have you be 
able to get the measurements.  I have an El Camino frame that I would like to 
put under a hardtop because the frame is stronger. Thanks, Tom

   

  -Original Message-
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mike Holleman
  Sent: Friday, April 11, 2008 8:49 AM
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 1965 Frame & Rearend

   

  Larry, I just happen to have a 65 El Camino chassis sitting beside a 65 
Malibu chassis. I'll take a few measurements and get back to you later today.

  Mike Holleman

- Original Message - 

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 

To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net 

Sent: Friday, April 11, 2008 5:34 AM

Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 1965 Frame & Rearend

 

Well I finally broke down and bought a 65 El Camino frame for my project. I 
looked for a convertible frame for the last 5 years and either they were too 
far away or too expensive. OK, I know we have been over this about 37 dozen 
times. I cannot seem to find my information to fit a El Camino frame under my 2 
door hardtop. I wrote @ one time that the number was 3.17 inches, but I have 
seen anywhere from 2 to four inches. I have looked everywhere online and my 
last resort is to go through all my assembly books. I am not sure if I have the 
El Camino Length.

What I need to know is:

1) The difference in length between the hardtop and El Camino ?

2) Where on the frame to take the length out of ?

3) If you have an answer where did you get it?

4) Galvanize Vs POR 15 vs Powder coat ?

5) Paint my new FAB 9 housing with Hammertite vs POR 15 vs Powder coat ?

6) Frame and housing colors ?

7) Standard Detroit Locker Vs ARB air locker ?

 

   Thanks

   Larry (Z)

 

 

[EMAIL PROTECTED]
1965 Chevelle Malibu SS
Collector of 1965 Chevelle parts
Seller of none (got to finish the car first)








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8:12 AM


Re: [Chevelle-list] 1965 Frame & Rearend

2008-04-16 Thread Mike Holleman
I would probably use some angle iron inside the frame for strength or you could 
just box it. The El Camino fuel tank mounts way different. It has side to side 
mounts(bars)  under it with straps over the top. Bolts to the underside of the 
chassis.
Mike
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] ; chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
  Sent: Wednesday, April 16, 2008 1:49 AM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 1965 Frame & Rearend


  Thanks for all the input. Sorry it took so long to get back to everyone. I 
had a little fender bender @ work last week and when woke up Saturday I could 
hardly move.Then the water heater went out @ my house Sunday. So I spent Monday 
& Tuesday trying to recouperate.

I picked up the frame and stopped @ the carwash. After 20 dollars in 
quarters it looks like I scored real well.Next I will be measuring and cutting 
the frame. I guess my next questions are:
  1) After welding the frame does it need a gusset on the inside?
  2) Would you grind and fill the welds until you cannot see were it was 
sectioned ?
  3) I haven't looked yet but does the El Camino gas tank straps bolt up the 
same as the coupe?

  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  1965 Chevelle Malibu SS
  Collector of 1965 Chevelle parts
  Seller of none (got to finish the car first)

  @ work





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9:12 AM


Re: [Chevelle-list] confirm '66 horn relay wiring

2008-04-15 Thread Mike Holleman
Krister, I looked at a 66 harness and it had two seperate spade connectors 
underneath. The one closest to the mounting screw was for a single dark wire 
that I think goes to the horn switch and the other had a double green wire 
plugged to it. Plus the large red wires connect to the large posts with screws. 
I looked at a 65 and it was the same except the spades were perpendicular the 
each other and connected with a single plug with the same color wires. (idiot 
proof ) Anyway, hope this helps.
Mike
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: Chevelle List 
  Sent: Monday, April 14, 2008 10:00 AM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] confirm '66 horn relay wiring


  I've done it again - disassembled and thought I would remember.  Can someone 
confirm the wiring on the tabs of a '66 horn relay.  I have a single black wire 
connector and a pair of greens on a single connector (green to horns) With the 
horn relay mounted on the radiator support - there are 3 connecting tabs from 
underneath.  Positions are LF (which is hot -so doesn't make sense to put green 
horn wires there), LR and RR.  The AIM does not show the detail of what colors 
get connected to what tab.  I will put this in my AIM from now on.

  Thanks for the help,

  Krister
  '66 SS L34 #'s  


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9:26 AM


Re: [Chevelle-list] 1965 Frame & Rearend

2008-04-11 Thread Mike Holleman
Larry, I just happen to have a 65 El Camino chassis sitting beside a 65 Malibu 
chassis. I'll take a few measurements and get back to you later today.
Mike Holleman
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
  Sent: Friday, April 11, 2008 5:34 AM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 1965 Frame & Rearend


  Well I finally broke down and bought a 65 El Camino frame for my project. I 
looked for a convertible frame for the last 5 years and either they were too 
far away or too expensive. OK, I know we have been over this about 37 dozen 
times. I cannot seem to find my information to fit a El Camino frame under my 2 
door hardtop. I wrote @ one time that the number was 3.17 inches, but I have 
seen anywhere from 2 to four inches. I have looked everywhere online and my 
last resort is to go through all my assembly books. I am not sure if I have the 
El Camino Length.
  What I need to know is:
  1) The difference in length between the hardtop and El Camino ?
  2) Where on the frame to take the length out of ?
  3) If you have an answer where did you get it?
  4) Galvanize Vs POR 15 vs Powder coat ?
  5) Paint my new FAB 9 housing with Hammertite vs POR 15 vs Powder coat ?
  6) Frame and housing colors ?
  7) Standard Detroit Locker Vs ARB air locker ?

 Thanks
 Larry (Z)


  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  1965 Chevelle Malibu SS
  Collector of 1965 Chevelle parts
  Seller of none (got to finish the car first)





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4:20 PM


Re: [Chevelle-list] 1965 Frame & Rearend

2008-04-11 Thread Mike Holleman
OK Larry, The difference is all after the next to last body mount locations. 
Everything to there measures the same. The Elky chassis has 29.25 inches center 
to center between the back two mount locations. The Malibu is 26.0 inches. This 
shows a 3.25 inch difference in length. The cut would be between these two 
mount locations in the rear side rails of the frame. This measurement would 
obviously vary slightly from frame to frame. All side to side mount 
measurements were the same on both. Hope this helps and if you need more I have 
the chassis here and can take pics or get more info if needed.
Mike 
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
  Sent: Friday, April 11, 2008 5:34 AM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 1965 Frame & Rearend


  Well I finally broke down and bought a 65 El Camino frame for my project. I 
looked for a convertible frame for the last 5 years and either they were too 
far away or too expensive. OK, I know we have been over this about 37 dozen 
times. I cannot seem to find my information to fit a El Camino frame under my 2 
door hardtop. I wrote @ one time that the number was 3.17 inches, but I have 
seen anywhere from 2 to four inches. I have looked everywhere online and my 
last resort is to go through all my assembly books. I am not sure if I have the 
El Camino Length.
  What I need to know is:
  1) The difference in length between the hardtop and El Camino ?
  2) Where on the frame to take the length out of ?
  3) If you have an answer where did you get it?
  4) Galvanize Vs POR 15 vs Powder coat ?
  5) Paint my new FAB 9 housing with Hammertite vs POR 15 vs Powder coat ?
  6) Frame and housing colors ?
  7) Standard Detroit Locker Vs ARB air locker ?

 Thanks
 Larry (Z)


  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  1965 Chevelle Malibu SS
  Collector of 1965 Chevelle parts
  Seller of none (got to finish the car first)





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4:20 PM


Re: [Chevelle-list] GM Resto Kit

2008-03-27 Thread Mike Holleman
Dale, The PHS documents the vehicle. You provide a VIN and they send you a copy 
of the dealer order for your car, a build sheet and a bunch of info on all the 
options and model year production numbers etc. It is a real neat deal. You 
can't cheat on a Pontiac. Having the VIN get's you all the data on your car.
Mike
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale 
  To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 
  Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2008 4:26 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] GM Resto Kit


  Don't know what PHS provides but I'd suspect not.  Has photocopies of general 
information pertaining to the model year, not specific to any one car.

   

  Dale McIntosh 
  ChevelleCD.com 
  ChevelleStuff.com 


--

  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mike Holleman
  Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2008 1:57 PM
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] GM Resto Kit

   

  What exactly does the kit contain?  Is this similar to what PHS provides for 
Pontiacs?

  Thanks

  Mike

- Original Message - 

From: Michou Olivera 

To: The Chevelle Mailing List 

Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2008 1:35 PM

Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] GM Resto Kit

 

Thanks from me also. I ordered one for my 67 Chevelle, and spoke with a 
woman who was really helpful. Should get my kit in a couple weeks. 

 

Michou

 

On 3/27/08, Don Allen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: 

Thanks from me, too.  I just got off the phone with Chevrolet and they said 
I should have it in a couple of weeks.  They did not ask me for my VIN.

 

Don Allen

'69 Chevelle

  -Original Message-
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jim 
Sullivan
  Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2008 10:24 AM
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List

  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] GM Resto Kit




  Dale,  

  Thanks for the heads up. Just ordered a kit for my '69 Malibu.  The 800 
number you posted worked for me.  They did ask for the VIN.

  Thanks again.

  Jim S.

   

   

   

- Original Message - 

From: ted laidig 

To: The Chevelle Mailing List 

Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2008 8:34 PM

Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] GM Resto Kit


 

Dale;

I have a "69" Malibu and will call them tomorrow.  I was wondering 
if these resto kits are available for only Chevelles.  I have a good friend 
that is heavily into Corvairs and if available I know he would jump on it.

 

Ted

Dale <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

  Didn't mean to hijack the thread and it dawned on me to change the 
Subject
  line after I sent the last post, apologize to all.

  So they've changed the access number, eh? I wonder if it's just 
because
  it's Saturday or if they've contracted it out? Did the girl mention 
if the
  Restoration Kit was still free or not?

  I'll try the 800 number on Monday and see if I get the same referral. 
If so
  I'll have to update the information on my site. 

  Thanks for the update.

  Dale McIntosh
  ChevelleCD.com
  ChevelleStuff.com


  > -Original Message-
  > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:chevelle-list-
  > [EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jim & Chris
  > Sent: Saturday, March 22, 2008 10:41 AM
  > To: The Chevelle Mailing List
  > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] spindles or springs
  >
  > Dale, I called the number you posted for the GM resto kit 
(800-222-1020)
  > and
  > the girl there referred me to another two numbers, chevrolet 
Heritage
  > (586)
  > 276-0693 & (586) 276-0691 MON-FRI business hours. And thanks for the
  > advice
  > about the springs. before my subject line was hijacked :O) thanks 
to all
  > that replied. Jimmy.C
  > - Original Message -
  > From: "Dale" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  > To: "'The Chevelle Mailing List'" 
  > Sent: Saturday, March 22, 2008 10:41 AM
  > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] spindles or springs
  >
  >
  > I don't remember asking for anyone in specific. I just told them I 
have a
  > 19xx Chevelle and want to get a 'Restoration Kit'. If memory serves,
  > sometimes that person took the info and sometimes they transferred 
me to
  > someone to take my information.
  >
  > Dale McIntosh
  > ChevelleCD.com
  > C

Re: [Chevelle-list] GM Resto Kit

2008-03-27 Thread Mike Holleman
What exactly does the kit contain?  Is this similar to what PHS provides for 
Pontiacs?
Thanks
Mike
  - Original Message - 
  From: Michou Olivera 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2008 1:35 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] GM Resto Kit


  Thanks from me also. I ordered one for my 67 Chevelle, and spoke with a woman 
who was really helpful. Should get my kit in a couple weeks. 

  Michou

   
  On 3/27/08, Don Allen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: 
Thanks from me, too.  I just got off the phone with Chevrolet and they said 
I should have it in a couple of weeks.  They did not ask me for my VIN.

Don Allen
'69 Chevelle
  -Original Message-
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jim 
Sullivan
  Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2008 10:24 AM
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List

  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] GM Resto Kit


  Dale,  
  Thanks for the heads up. Just ordered a kit for my '69 Malibu.  The 800 
number you posted worked for me.  They did ask for the VIN.
  Thanks again.
  Jim S.



- Original Message - 
From: ted laidig 
To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2008 8:34 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] GM Resto Kit

 
Dale;
I have a "69" Malibu and will call them tomorrow.  I was wondering 
if these resto kits are available for only Chevelles.  I have a good friend 
that is heavily into Corvairs and if available I know he would jump on it.

Ted

Dale <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
  Didn't mean to hijack the thread and it dawned on me to change the 
Subject
  line after I sent the last post, apologize to all.

  So they've changed the access number, eh? I wonder if it's just 
because
  it's Saturday or if they've contracted it out? Did the girl mention 
if the
  Restoration Kit was still free or not?

  I'll try the 800 number on Monday and see if I get the same referral. 
If so
  I'll have to update the information on my site. 

  Thanks for the update.

  Dale McIntosh
  ChevelleCD.com
  ChevelleStuff.com


  > -Original Message-
  > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:chevelle-list-
  > [EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jim & Chris
  > Sent: Saturday, March 22, 2008 10:41 AM
  > To: The Chevelle Mailing List
  > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] spindles or springs
  >
  > Dale, I called the number you posted for the GM resto kit 
(800-222-1020)
  > and
  > the girl there referred me to another two numbers, chevrolet 
Heritage
  > (586)
  > 276-0693 & (586) 276-0691 MON-FRI business hours. And thanks for the
  > advice
  > about the springs. before my subject line was hijacked :O) thanks 
to all
  > that replied. Jimmy.C
  > - Original Message -
  > From: "Dale" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  > To: "'The Chevelle Mailing List'" 
  > Sent: Saturday, March 22, 2008 10:41 AM
  > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] spindles or springs
  >
  >
  > I don't remember asking for anyone in specific. I just told them I 
have a
  > 19xx Chevelle and want to get a 'Restoration Kit'. If memory serves,
  > sometimes that person took the info and sometimes they transferred 
me to
  > someone to take my information.
  >
  > Dale McIntosh
  > ChevelleCD.com
  > ChevelleStuff.com
  >
  > > -Original Message-
  > > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:chevelle-list-
  > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  > > Sent: Saturday, March 22, 2008 9:27 AM
  > > To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net
  > > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] spindles or springs
  > >
  > > Dale...
  > >
  > > What Department do you ask for when you call the 800 number so 
you can
  > > get to the right person for the restoration kit?
  > >
  > > Thanks,
  > >
  > > Jerry Wells
  > > '70 SS 454
  > >
  > >
  > >
  > >
  > > -Original Message-
  > > From: Chuck Speake 
  > > To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 
  > > Sent: Fri, 21 Mar 2008 1:43 pm
  > > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] spindles or springs
  > >
  > >
  > >
  > >
  > > Thank you very much for the quick response and the information. I 
will
  > > get my vin # and give them a call.
  > >
  > > Once again, thanks.
  > >
  > >
  > >
  > > Chuck Speake
  > >
  > > 1970 Chevelle Malibu
  > >
  > > Glen 

Re: [Chevelle-list] Electric fans

2008-03-18 Thread Mike Holleman
Terry, I have a similar setup to Herb. My sensor is also in the intake, near my 
manual temp gauge sensor. On at 185 off at 170. It is very accurate according 
to my temp gauge.
I also wired to come on with the A/C comp. and have a manual switch under the 
dash with an LED that tells me anytime the fans are running.
Mike
  - Original Message - 
  From: Terry S Hodges 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List ; 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 
  Cc: Herb Lumpp 
  Sent: Monday, March 17, 2008 8:52 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Electric fans


  Thanks Herb, What temp sensor do you have installed in the manifold ? On at 
195, off 175 etc ? Did you have to compensate the 15 degrees variance as stated 
on the Ron Francis Wiring webpage ? I tried to look at your photos but you have 
 to log in to view. 

  Thanks again

  Terry Hodges


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10:48 AM


Re: [Chevelle-list] master cylinder bench bleeding

2008-02-29 Thread Mike Holleman
Now that you mention it, :-)  Wasn't intended to have a double meaning. In 
this day and time we get our laughs where ever we can find them.

Mike
- Original Message - 
From: "Dale" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "'The Chevelle Mailing List'" 
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2008 8:05 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] master cylinder bench bleeding



For some reason that just reads funny, Mike.  LOL


Additionally, the master is not fully stroked when mounted, therefore
cannot be bleed as well as on the bench.
Mike





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Re: [Chevelle-list] master cylinder bench bleeding

2008-02-28 Thread Mike Holleman
Additionally, the master is not fully stroked when mounted, therefore cannot 
be bleed as well as on the bench.

Mike
- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Chevelle List" 
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2008 4:42 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] master cylinder bench bleeding


I would go with the vice. Its my understanding that there is an area at the 
leading edge of the piston that can trap some air if not sitting level. In 
the car it is higher than the forward reservoir opening.


Godspeed,
Dan Solomon
It is a mistake to allow any mechanical object to realize you are in a 
hurry.

http://www.freewebs.com/chevelles1970/

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 16:32:33
To:chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] master cylinder bench bleeding


The master cylinder works properly when driving, and its on an angle...so 
why wouldnt it work if you're just bleeding it? Granted, it's a little 
harder and you have to be a little more careful...but I bled the master 
cylinder while it was installed on my car. Whichever works for yah. :o)



-Original Message-
From: Rick Schaefer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
Sent: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 1:27 pm
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] master cylinder bench bleeding


The bleeding kit from the parts store works primo - and its cheap. Because 
the MC is mounted on an angle, I'd think that its virtually impossible to 
bleed it correctly on the car. I'd mount the MC in a vise & do it.



On Thu, Feb 28, 2008 at 2:10 PM, <[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 > wrote:
Thanks Dan, you have also provided me other info before and I surely 
appreciate it ALL Thanks Steve






-Original Message-
From: Daniel Solomon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]  >
To: The Chevelle Mailing List  >

Sent: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 10:34 am
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] master cylinder bench bleeding


You can also pickup a plastic set at the local auto parts store. Got one a 
few months ago for 3 bucks. Comes with an assortment of plastic nipples, a 
clip to hold them in the reservoir and some hose.


Godspeed, Dan Solomon
"It is a mistake to allow any mechanical object to realize you are in a 
hurry."
http://www.freewebs.com/chevelles1970/ 









To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 10:30:33 -0500
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] master cylinder bench bleeding


I always take extra line, screw them into the master cylinder, then bend 
them up and into the reservoir, so that the ends of these lines are 
submerged in the reservoir. Fill up the master cylinder with fluid, making 
sure the ends of the lines are submerged. Put the master cylinder in a 
vise, and push on the piston part of it with a screwdriver. You'll see 
bubbles come out from the lines...keep going and going and going and 
going(haha) untill no more air comes out. You could do this on the car 
also...which is what I did. That way you can just step on the brake pedal. 
But then you'd need somebody else to tell you when the bubbles stop.


Pretty easy to do really. If you have any more questions just ask.


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
Sent: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 6:10 am
Subject: [Chevelle-list] master cylinder bench bleeding


Hi guys I had to replace a master cylinder on the 70 and I got the one 
with no bleeders on it. What is the process to properly bench bleed it? 
Thanks Steve



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Re: [Chevelle-list] OPG

2008-01-28 Thread Mike Holleman
My favorite OPG experience was I placed an order for several items. Two weeks 
later I called to check on a delivery date. The "customer service" guy says 
that it would take another week to get it shipped as they had just got around 
to processing the order that day. Seems they "had been real busy" and it was 
taking them two weeks just to process an order. He thought I was being a jerk 
for thinking that was an unreasonable amount of time to get the order in their 
system. That order took a month to receive and half of the items were 
backordered. I still buy an occasional item from them because they do have 
things that other companies don't. 
Mike 
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Monday, January 28, 2008 10:31 AM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] OPG


  I have never had the opportunity to buy from OPG, because when I have called 
them, they never have the item instock.  They explained they will ship items as 
they come in and pro rate shipping based on what the total would be to ship all 
items at once.  Not worth the hassel.  NPD and GU have been good, but 90% of 
the I time use Classic Muscle, best on pricing, cost of shipping, quality of 
parts and service.  They list all parts by the original GM part number which 
makes it real easy especially when using the Assembly Manual for replacing 
parts.
  http://www.oldmusclecars.com/

  Krister
  '66 SS, L34, #'s


-- Original message -- 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

Deal with OPG long enough and you will find out what the issue is. A ripoff 
on shipping, and they will tell you they have something when they don't. I will 
never use them again.


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10:59 AM


Re: [Chevelle-list] 66 cowl induction hood

2008-01-15 Thread Mike Holleman
I'd say that's a Goodmark. Looks the same as the one we used. Should be fine, 
just expect a little tweaking to get it right. From Classic Muscle it was about 
the same cost.
Mike
  - Original Message - 
  From: Herb Lumpp 
  To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 
  Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2008 1:09 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 66 cowl induction hood


  I ordered my hood from an ebay vendor.  I know what you're thinking, but 
everyone I talked to told me the sheet metal all comes from the same place.  If 
that's true, then there's no reason to pay any more for a hood than I have to.  
The warehouse for this company is in Naperville, IL.  I called their number and 
ordered it over the phone because it sounded like a legit business.  It ended 
up costing $375 + $117 for shipping so I saved a few bucks ordered it on the 
phone vs the ebay auction. 

  Here's the url: 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1966-Chevelle-El-Camino-Steel-Cowl-Induction-Hood-2_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33646QQihZ023QQitemZ360013033280QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

  Herb



--
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL 
PROTECTED]
  Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 12:10 PM
  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 66 cowl induction hood


  Herb,

  I took some pictures for yah. I'll load them up tonight and send them over 
for yah. 

  -Tim


  -Original Message-
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net
  Sent: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 7:21 pm
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 66 cowl induction hood


  Larry,

  It sure could. I'm pretty sure at True Connections we did that too, if I 
remember right.


  -Original Message-
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net
  Sent: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 11:57 am
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 66 cowl induction hood


  Tim:
  If one was to order a hood couldn't  it be dropped shipped?
  Larry

  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  1965 Chevelle Malibu SS
  Collector of 1965 Chevelle parts
  Seller of none (got to finish the car first)





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5:39 PM


Re: [Chevelle-list] 66 cowl induction hood

2008-01-13 Thread Mike Holleman
I guess our industry standard is not too good. The one we went with was the 
second one. The first we refused. It was maybe six inches out. I buy those type 
of parts from Classic Muscle. They deliver to us daily with no freight charge. 
(to the body shop) They are a div. of Modern Chevrolet and a huge supplier of 
body panels in our State. Harwood does not list a 66 cowl hood. According to 
Claude we would have had much less time fitting a glass hood. The overall 
quality of the hood was good, it was just way out square. You know how peculiar 
I am about fit. 
Mike
  - Original Message - 
  From: Herb Lumpp 
  To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 
  Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2008 10:50 AM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 66 cowl induction hood


  Hi Mike, I thought Goodmark was supposed to be the industry standard!  Could 
it have been damaged during shipping?

  As for Harwood, I was trying to stay away from a 'glass hood this time 
around.  If that's the best way to go, then I guess I won't have much choice.

  Herb



--
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mike Holleman
  Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2008 9:35 AM
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 66 cowl induction hood


  Herb,  We used the Goodmark hood on the 66 I just finished. It was a major 
pain to make fit. When I set the hood on the floor, one corner was 4" off the 
floor. It was made worst by the use of aftermarket fenders. If Harwood makes 
one buy it. From my experience their hoods are worth the price difference. 
  Mike
- Original Message - 
From: Herb Lumpp 
To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 
Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2008 7:55 PM
Subject: [Chevelle-list] 66 cowl induction hood


Does anyone know where to get the best deal on a steel cowl induction hood 
for a 66 Chevelle?  Thanks.

Herb





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Re: [Chevelle-list] 66 cowl induction hood

2008-01-13 Thread Mike Holleman
Herb,  We used the Goodmark hood on the 66 I just finished. It was a major pain 
to make fit. When I set the hood on the floor, one corner was 4" off the floor. 
It was made worst by the use of aftermarket fenders. If Harwood makes one buy 
it. From my experience their hoods are worth the price difference. 
Mike
  - Original Message - 
  From: Herb Lumpp 
  To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 
  Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2008 7:55 PM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] 66 cowl induction hood


  Does anyone know where to get the best deal on a steel cowl induction hood 
for a 66 Chevelle?  Thanks.

  Herb


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12:23 PM


Re: [Chevelle-list] Please help! Sway bar information

2008-01-07 Thread Mike Holleman
The Hotchkis bar has grease fittings. I have never noticed any squeeking 
from it.

Mike
- Original Message - 
From: "Eduardo (Eddie) Gamino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" 
Sent: Monday, January 07, 2008 8:41 PM
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Please help! Sway bar information


To anyone who can help me out:

I tried to find the answer in other forums, but had no luck. I'm having 
difficulties about finding the right appropriate size and brand of sway bar 
to choose from that will fit my application and that will not do me vehicle 
more harm than good. I was looking at the hotchkis bars, but they use 
polyurethane bushings and I don't really want to deal with the squeaking. 
I'm thinking about getting the 1 1/4" or the 1 3/8" front bar. Then later on 
get the rear 1" sway bar. Would this be a good set up or is it too much? 
For the Hotchkis bars, I heard that some have had their sway bars break 
since they are made as hollow. Is this correct?  I believe GP superstore is 
giving a 20% discount on Hotchkis parts. Also, some car owners have 
suggested that OPGI has good heat treated sway bars.  Does any one know of 
these bars being worth the buy?


I use my 1970 chevelle as a street driver car, which has a 350 engine, 350 
tranny, rebuilt 12 bolt 3.47 non-posi rear end, with some high performance 
parts here and there. I bought the lower box rear control arms from Ground 
Up.  Most of the front suspension is of Moog parts and have front and rear 
Hotchkis springs with KYB shocks up front and Monroe shocks at rear. My car 
never sees the track, since it's not built as a racing car. However, if it 
helps, later on I will beef up the engine to a 383 in the future.


I have never had that experience driving with any sway bar, front or rear, 
that I don't know how it feels. Some people say it's better and you can 
really feel the difference than without one. Some also say to never drive on 
the streets without one. I don't have one and I drive on the streets all the 
time. I mean, I do feel that "lean" feel on the car that people talk about. 
So, should I invest in a pair of sway bars after all? I'm all for any 
improvments in my driving handling.  Bottom line, can anyone please point me 
in the right direction with specific choices in helping me choose the right 
combination of size for the front and rear sway bars and what brand out of 
many is the best for me? It will be highly appreciated. thanks

-Eddie

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Re: [Chevelle-list] 1967 Chevelle Windshield Installation

2007-12-30 Thread Mike Holleman
Harlan, In my state the glass shops are not allowed to set windshields with 
Buytl rubber. (this may be national) There is concern about the windshield 
coming out of the car in a crash. Urethane can be used with good success by an 
experienced installer, but it is very difficult to get the proper height for 
the molding to set right with urethane. I have only done one windshield myself 
with urethane. It looked like crap and was extremely messy. And when I had to 
redo the winshield some years later it was a major pain. I personally will 
never work with it again. Not really sure what the truth is but according to 
the glass folks I deal with they cannot legally install with buytl rubber.
Mike
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
  Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2007 8:40 AM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 1967 Chevelle Windshield Installation


  I prefer the butyl also, alot of glass companies will not use it, and I had a 
windshield done with urethane and looked like crap I thought, it squirms more 
than the butyl, I also had another car done with urethane and the glass company 
painted a black boarder around the windshield first. and the last car I did, I 
did myself with butyl and looked great.. I have had no luck finding anyone 
willing to use butyl in my area.

  Harlan





  In a message dated 12/29/2007 2:49:07 P.M. Central Daylight Time, [EMAIL 
PROTECTED] writes:
I have a question about replacing the windshield on my 1967 Chevelle Malibu 
2 door hardtop. I have just finished pulling all the old clips, and cleaning 
out the old sealant and prepping the window channel, and am wondering how to 
proceed. I have heard various people say that you should use 5/16 butyl tape 
instead of a urethane sealant out of a caulking gun. I'd like to hear some 
other opinions on this, as well as learn how the clips and tape and windshield 
all go back together. Any photos would also be greatly appreciated. 

Thanks in advance for any info.

Michou







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11:27 AM


Re: [Chevelle-list] 1967 Chevelle Windshield Installation

2007-12-27 Thread Mike Holleman
The easy way is the glass shop. I do all my own, but I was taught by an expert. 
The clips have to be in place before the windshield is installed. If you are 
missing studs you can pop rivet or screw the clips in place. I like to always 
start with new clips. Dry fit the windshield. Put setting blocks under the WS 
about a foot in from the edge. Once you are happy with the clearance, up and 
down and side to side put a small strip of masking tape on the glass and on to 
the lower cowl for realignment purposes. Cut it along the bottom edge of the 
glass. This is your alignment point. Note where the metal ledge is in 
relationship to the glass so you will know exactly where to put your sealant. 
Remove the glass. I only use butyl rubber tape and recommend 3/8". Start laying 
your tape bottom center around the edge of the WS ledge being careful not to 
change the shape of the tape as you go. You don't want thin spots. You should 
end where you began. This is a two man job. Now carefully set the glass on the 
setting blocks in alignment with the masking tape. Then slowly lay the glass in 
against the ribbon. Hopefully in exactly the same position it was in during dry 
fitting. Pat the glass down with the palms of your hands all around the 
perimeter and it will be set. At this point I like to put it in the sun for 
several hours and then water test it. This is not easy but doable. I'd hate to 
know I had to do this from my lousy instructions.
Good Luck.
Mike Holleman
  - Original Message - 
  From: Michou Olivera 
  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
  Sent: Thursday, December 27, 2007 1:23 PM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] 1967 Chevelle Windshield Installation


  Hey all and happy holidays!

  I have a question about replacing the windshield on my 1967 Chevelle Malibu 2 
door hardtop. I have just finished pulling all the old clips, and cleaning out 
the old sealant and prepping the window channel, and am wondering how to 
proceed. I have heard various people say that you should use 5/16 butyl tape 
instead of a urethane sealant out of a caulking gun. I'd like to hear some 
other opinions on this, as well as learn how the clips and tape and windshield 
all go back together. Any photos would also be greatly appreciated. 

  Thanks in advance for any info.

  Michou

  1967 Chevelle SS 427 clone project - http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2933409
  1975 Chevy 4X4 - http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2349792
  2002 VW GTI VR6 - http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2351731 

  A.C.E.S. #: 08166
  Team Chevelle #: 4187 


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5:26 PM


Re: [Chevelle-list] chevelle

2007-12-25 Thread Mike Holleman
That may be difficult. Any tiltle work that involves a vehicle that is 35 years 
old now requires a physical inspection. Plus this inspector is a friend and has 
been helpful to me. He helped us prove numbers matching on a 69 Chevelle. The 
block had been decked and you couldn't read the numbers. He brought by a 
chemical that raised the numbers enough for verification. All this extra red 
tape came about because our former director of the DMV helped a buddy get a 
title for his old truck showing it to be a restored original. It was not. 
Fiberglass reproduction body, not stock chassis etc. The State inspector had 
turned it down and was over ruled. The Director got canned and the heat turned 
up. My friend the inspector has had to personally inspect over one thousand 
classic cars as a result.
Mike
  - Original Message - 
  From: Josh Campbell 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Tuesday, December 25, 2007 9:18 AM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] chevelle


  I think for the next build I wouldn't allow the inspector in the shop... 

  Mike Holleman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: 
We are having a huge stink in NC right now about legal titling of classic 
cars. I just delivered a 66 Chevelle I built for a customer. It was titled in 
Ka. To get his NC title it was required for the State inspector to come by my 
shop and verify the VIN matched the title. That was not a problem but when he 
looked the build over closely and realized that all that was original was the 
body and chassis he almost made us title it as a 2007 Custom. If he had pushed 
the point my customer would have been subjected to emission requirements, 
safety inspection and his property tax would not have been based on the book 
value, but build cost.
Then he walks over to my 65 Elky being built on a Schwartz chassis with an 
LS2. Luckily it is already titled and registered or it would be a 2008 Custom. 
Whew
Things are not as simple as they used to be.
    Mike Holleman
  - Original Message - 
  From: mike f 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Monday, December 24, 2007 9:56 AM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] chevelle


  Why or how would someone just sell titles? Would these be forgeries? 

  Merry Christmas.
  mike



  - Original Message 
  From: Eddie Bumgarner <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Saturday, December 22, 2007 9:16:11 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] chevelle

  Does anybody know someone that sells car titles? thanks in advance Eddie 
B.

  Eddie Bumgarner <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: 
I would hire some to check it out, or go see it my self in person 
before i spent a dime. good luck Eddie Bumgarner 66ss conv.

Bill Bradley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: 
  ditto
   [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 
  I'd like to see the pics

  Donnie



  In a message dated 12/21/2007 5:43:02 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


  i tried to send this two times, seems it won;t go through with the 
picture 
  attachments. if anyone wants them let me know.
  i just thought it would be fun to mess with these scammers a little 
more.
  one of the pictures you might be able to see the plate number. and i 
wonder 
  whos vin this is?







  In a message dated 12/20/2007 4:53:23 P.M. Central Daylight Time, 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

  Even I'm not good about cars, I'll try to describe the car the best 
way I 
  can. It has no scratches, no damages, no hidden defects. It is in 
imaculate 
  condition and has never been involved in any accident.The mileage is 
  accurate.The engine runs good, the paint looks new ( as you can see 
from the pictures ), 
  garage kept. 
  1970 Chevelle SS 454 4-Speed 

  Miles: 89010 Body Type: Coupe 
  Transmission: Manual 
  Engine: 8 Interior: Black 
  Warranty: No Year: 1970 
  Title: Clear VIN Number: 136370A169765 
  Condition: Used Exterior: Black 
  Fuel Type: Gasoline Inspection: Inspected 
  Options 
  Air Conditioning Power Seats

  I must remind you that if we are going to have a transaction I will 
need 
  your complete name and address to initiate a new transaction case at 
Yahoo! 
  Finance, please provide me with your purchase & shipping details 
(name and 
  address "shipping address aswell if different from your address"). 
After I receive 
  your details I will initiate a new transaction case at Yahoo! Finance 
and 
  they will contact you with the complete details of this transaction. 
  Thank you! 




  









  _

Re: [Chevelle-list] chevelle

2007-12-24 Thread Mike Holleman
We are having a huge stink in NC right now about legal titling of classic cars. 
I just delivered a 66 Chevelle I built for a customer. It was titled in Ka. To 
get his NC title it was required for the State inspector to come by my shop and 
verify the VIN matched the title. That was not a problem but when he looked the 
build over closely and realized that all that was original was the body and 
chassis he almost made us title it as a 2007 Custom. If he had pushed the point 
my customer would have been subjected to emission requirements, safety 
inspection and his property tax would not have been based on the book value, 
but build cost.
Then he walks over to my 65 Elky being built on a Schwartz chassis with an LS2. 
Luckily it is already titled and registered or it would be a 2008 Custom. 
Whew
Things are not as simple as they used to be.
Mike Holleman
  - Original Message - 
  From: mike f 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Monday, December 24, 2007 9:56 AM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] chevelle


  Why or how would someone just sell titles? Would these be forgeries? 



  Merry Christmas.

  mike




  - Original Message 
  From: Eddie Bumgarner <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Saturday, December 22, 2007 9:16:11 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] chevelle

  Does anybody know someone that sells car titles? thanks in advance Eddie B.

  Eddie Bumgarner <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: 
I would hire some to check it out, or go see it my self in person before i 
spent a dime. good luck Eddie Bumgarner 66ss conv.

Bill Bradley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: 
  ditto
   [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 
  I'd like to see the pics

  Donnie



  In a message dated 12/21/2007 5:43:02 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


  i tried to send this two times, seems it won;t go through with the 
picture 
  attachments. if anyone wants them let me know.
  i just thought it would be fun to mess with these scammers a little more.
  one of the pictures you might be able to see the plate number. and i 
wonder 
  whos vin this is?







  In a message dated 12/20/2007 4:53:23 P.M. Central Daylight Time, 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

  Even I'm not good about cars, I'll try to describe the car the best way I 
  can. It has no scratches, no damages, no hidden defects. It is in 
imaculate 
  condition and has never been involved in any accident.The mileage is 
  accurate.The engine runs good, the paint looks new ( as you can see from 
the pictures ), 
  garage kept. 
  1970 Chevelle SS 454 4-Speed 

  Miles: 89010 Body Type: Coupe 
  Transmission: Manual 
  Engine: 8 Interior: Black 
  Warranty: No Year: 1970 
  Title: Clear VIN Number: 136370A169765 
  Condition: Used Exterior: Black 
  Fuel Type: Gasoline Inspection: Inspected 
  Options 
  Air Conditioning Power Seats

  I must remind you that if we are going to have a transaction I will need 
  your complete name and address to initiate a new transaction case at 
Yahoo! 
  Finance, please provide me with your purchase & shipping details (name 
and 
  address "shipping address aswell if different from your address"). After 
I receive 
  your details I will initiate a new transaction case at Yahoo! Finance and 
  they will contact you with the complete details of this transaction. 
  Thank you! 




  









  
  See AOL's _top rated recipes_ 
  (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop000304) and 
_easy ways to stay in shape_ 
  (http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aoltop000303) 
for winter.





  **See AOL's top rated recipes 
  (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop000304)

  --
  Bill Bradley
  http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/chevellerestoration/
  67 Chevelle Malibu
  71 Triumph Spitfire
  82 Chevy C-10







Eddie Bumgarner 66ss conv.


Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search.




  Eddie Bumgarner 66ss conv.


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11:19 AM


Re: [Chevelle-list] 1969 Chevelle trunk lip question

2007-12-10 Thread Mike Holleman
It is a fairly easy piece to make with a metal brake. Although, it would be 
nice to be able to buy pre made parts. It is also possible to cut the old 
pieces off and reuse them.

Mike
- Original Message - 
From: "Trooper" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" 
Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 8:56 AM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 1969 Chevelle trunk lip question


If you go to the Goodmark site and look for Chevelle trunk lip, it is 
currently being tooled and not available. So in answer to this guys 
question, no there are no aftermarket pieces available at this time.


Trooper

- Original Message - 
From: "Dale" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "'The Chevelle Mailing List'" 
Sent: Sunday, December 09, 2007 10:15 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 1969 Chevelle trunk lip question



That's true about frames pages, John, the address bar only shows the home
page but that link does work.

I don't see a search engine for the site so one may have to look a minute 
or

two to find the page - well, maybe 3 or 4 minutes as their site is always
slow for me.

If one right-clicks on the (silly IMO) wallpaper and selects Properties
they'll get the URL of the specific page.  Since there are only two for
Muscle Cars > 1968-1972 Chevelle it is easier to find the reference 
without

having to click those two links.

http://www.goodmarkindustries.com/Chevelle6872.htm ...or...
http://www.goodmarkindustries.com/Chevelle6872P2.htm


Dale McIntosh
ChevelleCD.com
ChevelleStuff.com



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John Nasta
Sent: Sunday, December 09, 2007 9:25 PM
To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 1969 Chevelle trunk lip question

Sure, but a link to the HomePage.html page is certainly not a link to
a specific part. Hence, the link is pretty useless. You may as well
just tell people to go to their web site and look it up.


Quoting Dale <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>:


John,

Hmmm... Link worked just fine for me.  Even if you go to their root at
http://www.goodmarkindustries.com/ and click their 'Click Here to Enter'
link (which to me has always been a waste), or wait the 10 seconds they

have

set up as a delay, it takes you to the HomePage.html page.

Dale McIntosh
ChevelleCD.com
ChevelleStuff.com



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John Nasta
Sent: Sunday, December 09, 2007 8:33 PM
To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 1969 Chevelle trunk lip question

Hi Roger,

That link won't work because the Goodmark (ancient) web site is in 
frames.


You would have to supply the part number for anybody to look it up on
their web site.

JN


Quoting Roger Waterhouse <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>:


This is all I could find for the trunk lip that hold the weather

stripping.


http://www.goodmarkindustries.com/HomePage.html



Roger



  _

From: Craig and Cerena [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, December 08, 2007 7:34 AM
To: Chevelle List
Subject: [Chevelle-list] 1969 Chevelle trunk lip question



 Can anyone tell me if there is a company that has repo'ed the 
trunk

lip

for a 69 Chevelle?  I believe I found it once but can't remember where.
Hope I wasn't dreaming this up.  Thanks



Craig











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Re: [Chevelle-list] 1969 Chevelle trunk lip question

2007-12-08 Thread Mike Holleman
Craig, OPGI shows them in their catalog, but I managed to learn that they have 
never had one in stock. Chances are you will either have to remake them or 
salvage the one's off your old sheet metal. 
Sorry. 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Craig and Cerena 
  To: Chevelle List 
  Sent: Saturday, December 08, 2007 7:33 AM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] 1969 Chevelle trunk lip question


   Can anyone tell me if there is a company that has repo'ed the trunk lip 
for a 69 Chevelle?  I believe I found it once but can't remember where.  Hope I 
wasn't dreaming this up.  Thanks

   

  Craig



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11:59 AM


Re: [Chevelle-list] brake bleeding

2007-12-02 Thread Mike Holleman
Only one thing I would recommend different. Don't pump the pedal. Crack the 
bleeder, have the helper push the pedal to the floor and hold it, close the 
bleeder. Repeat until you see no more air bubbles. From the Baer brake tech 
sheet, " it's not a contest to see how far you can shoot fluid across the shop 
floor." Plus if the master cylinder was dry, don't forget to bench bleed it 
first. 
Mike
  - Original Message - 
  From: mike f 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2007 8:39 AM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] brake bleeding


  Steve, I don't think the process is any different from bleeding disc/disc 
systems. To start, I am assumming that the master cylinder is all good and 
filled. Then start with someone in the car and you and a can of brake fluid at 
the right rear drum. Have the person punp it up and hold it. Then you crack the 
bleed screw then close it. repeat over and over again going from the furthest 
point to the the nearest. Never let the fluid go empty in the master cylinder. 

  In a coffee can with brake fluid, I also use a tube that is out on the bleed 
screw to help avoid sucking air back in . 

  I have never had a booster go bad. 

  hope this helps
  mike


  - Original Message 
  From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net
  Sent: Saturday, December 1, 2007 10:12:58 AM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] brake bleeding

  Hi guys was wondering about the correct way to bleed the disc/drum power 
brake system on a 70 chevelle? I think i read some where that you need to hold 
open the prop valve while bleeding (?) does the booster require vacumn during 
bleeding? is there a way to tell if the booster is bad? if the master is bad? 
Thanks  steve




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11:30 AM


Re: [Chevelle-list] Another Question How About Mini-tubbing

2007-11-27 Thread Mike Holleman
Tim, I'll send a couple of shots offlist that show the wheels mounted. But they 
are upclose and don't really show the car. The fronts are 18x8- 4.5" BS. 245/40 
nittos. I have not yet shot finished pics of the car. It is a customers, but I 
have a photographer doing a shoot on it very soon and will be glad to share 
those shots. I have a very minor rub, top center of the outer fender on the RS 
only. It has after market fenders and they are slightly different from side to 
side. Anyway look for a couple of pics.
Mike Holleman 
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
  Sent: Tuesday, November 27, 2007 11:52 AM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Another Question How About Mini-tubbing


  Mike,

  Do you have any pictures of your car with these wheels? I'd love to see them. 
What are you running in the front???

  Thanks,

  -Tim King


  -Original Message-
  From: Mike Holleman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Thu, 8 Nov 2007 9:23 am
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Another Question How About Mini-tubbing


  Josh, You don't need to minitub a 66 to fit 10 inch wheels. I just did one 
with 10" w/ 5.5" BS. Good clearance inside and I thinned the outer lip and 
reshaped the inner well a bit above the lip. Running 285/35-18's. No clearance 
issues.
  Mike Holleman
- Original Message - 
From: Josh Campbell 
To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
Sent: Thursday, November 08, 2007 8:52 AM
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Another Question How About Mini-tubbing


While I'm asking a bunch of questions does anyone know where there are 
articles/ videos on how to do a minitub? I saw them do it on Musclecar but I 
would like something a little more in depth or at least be able to watch that 
segment a dozen or so times. I believe a hundred or so years ago Hot Rod mag 
did an article, they referenced it once when I was a younger gearhead but it 
was back in the 90s when that article was run and when they mentioned it I was 
just out of high school (2000). I would like to comfortably be able to fit a 10 
inch tire under my 66 without hacking the quarters up that I am putting on. 
Anyway any info will be greatly appreciated.



Josh Campbell
66 SS 396 (Black on the rotisseree, 1st car never part with it)
66 SS 396 (Red got it on a trade I only wanted the steering wheel)
71 Malibu (Something new to blow my money on)
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11:40 AM


Re: [Chevelle-list] Another Question How About Mini-tubbing

2007-11-08 Thread Mike Holleman
I checked it with the suspension fully collapsed and it made no contact. 
However, this Chevelle has no original sheet metal. It was a rust disaster that 
I saved for a customer, so my clearance in the top of the inner fenders may by 
slightly different than stock. Herb may can add to this as he has done both an 
Elky and 66 Chevelle with 10" wheels.
Mike 
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
  Sent: Thursday, November 08, 2007 12:39 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Another Question How About Mini-tubbing


  Mike, 

  How is the clearance around the top? I'd like to run a 10" wide 18" rim on my 
66, but I fear that it is too narrow at the top of the fenderwell. This is a 
silly concern for most, but mine is on air bags. I have to be able to lay it 
out at shows and look cool. :o)


  -Original Message-
  From: Mike Holleman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Thu, 8 Nov 2007 9:23 am
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Another Question How About Mini-tubbing


  Josh, You don't need to minitub a 66 to fit 10 inch wheels. I just did one 
with 10" w/ 5.5" BS. Good clearance inside and I thinned the outer lip and 
reshaped the inner well a bit above the lip. Running 285/35-18's. No clearance 
issues.
  Mike Holleman
- Original Message - 
From: Josh Campbell 
To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
Sent: Thursday, November 08, 2007 8:52 AM
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Another Question How About Mini-tubbing


While I'm asking a bunch of questions does anyone know where there are 
articles/ videos on how to do a minitub? I saw them do it on Musclecar but I 
would like something a little more in depth or at least be able to watch that 
segment a dozen or so times. I believe a hundred or so years ago Hot Rod mag 
did an article, they referenced it once when I was a younger gearhead but it 
was back in the 90s when that article was run and when they mentioned it I was 
just out of high school (2000). I would like to comfortably be able to fit a 10 
inch tire under my 66 without hacking the quarters up that I am putting on. 
Anyway any info will be greatly appreciated.



Josh Campbell
66 SS 396 (Black on the rotisseree, 1st car never part with it)
66 SS 396 (Red got it on a trade I only wanted the steering wheel)
71 Malibu (Something new to blow my money on)
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9:29 AM


Re: [Chevelle-list] Another Question How About Mini-tubbing

2007-11-08 Thread Mike Holleman
Josh, You don't need to minitub a 66 to fit 10 inch wheels. I just did one with 
10" w/ 5.5" BS. Good clearance inside and I thinned the outer lip and reshaped 
the inner well a bit above the lip. Running 285/35-18's. No clearance issues.
Mike Holleman
  - Original Message - 
  From: Josh Campbell 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Thursday, November 08, 2007 8:52 AM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] Another Question How About Mini-tubbing


  While I'm asking a bunch of questions does anyone know where there are 
articles/ videos on how to do a minitub? I saw them do it on Musclecar but I 
would like something a little more in depth or at least be able to watch that 
segment a dozen or so times. I believe a hundred or so years ago Hot Rod mag 
did an article, they referenced it once when I was a younger gearhead but it 
was back in the 90s when that article was run and when they mentioned it I was 
just out of high school (2000). I would like to comfortably be able to fit a 10 
inch tire under my 66 without hacking the quarters up that I am putting on. 
Anyway any info will be greatly appreciated.



  Josh Campbell
  66 SS 396 (Black on the rotisseree, 1st car never part with it)
  66 SS 396 (Red got it on a trade I only wanted the steering wheel)
  71 Malibu (Something new to blow my money on)
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9:29 AM


Re: [Chevelle-list] Trunk Floors

2007-11-06 Thread Mike Holleman
I believe Dean said his car is a 65 Convertible. There are no one piece trunks 
made that I am aware of for the 64/67 Abodys. And Dean, never try to replace 
any body panel, including floor pans and trunks without the body sitting on the 
chassis. When I do a frame off, I do all the body panels first while still on 
the chassis. I will save most of the underside welding for the rotissorie.
Mike Holleman 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Jim H. Thompson 
  To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 
  Sent: Monday, November 05, 2007 8:09 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Trunk Floors


  If you have the money go big. I pieced meal my trunk because it was the my 
first effort. In retrospect a one piece floor is less work. The convertible has 
more body mounts 14.  I had to air chisel 2 mounts in the trunk.  Later when I 
started stripping the rest of the trunk floor, after I did the two subsection, 
I found several pin holes.

   

  http://picasaweb.google.com/JimThompsonCC/Trunk

   

  I suggest doing the trunk and floor pans while it is on the frame.

   

   

  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dean 
Vandergriff
  Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2007 2:45 PM
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] Trunk Floors

   

  I'm in the process of a frame off project on my '65 convertible & need to 
order a trunk floor.Anyone have any opinion on the best trunk kit for the 
money?

   

  Thanks,

   

  Dean Vandergriff



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4:36 AM


Re: [Chevelle-list] Trim needed

2007-10-30 Thread Mike Holleman
Chuck, You take care of yourself and don't worry about this little trim issue. 
This car is going to be back in the customer's hands before the week is out. I 
cannot remove this trim part until I have one to replace it. It's really not 
that noticible, but when you have spent the last year building a near flawless 
Chevelle anything less than perfect becomes a "wart on a pretty face".  I hope 
everything works out well for you. Our health is really way more important than 
a hobby.
Mike
  - Original Message - 
  From: Chuck Speake 
  To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 
  Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 9:48 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Trim needed


  Mike,

  I am in quite a bit of pain tonight and have an appointment to see my doctor 
tomorrow hoping he can give me something to help with it.  Then on Wednesday I 
have to go have a brain scan with contrasting dye.  Once I get thru all of this 
and can move around somewhat better I will try to find the name and number of 
the place that did my aluminum trim.  I am pretty sure that they will also do 
stainless steel.  Worst case they could get it completely cleaned up with no 
dents or scratches and you have it chrome plated elsewhere.  Funny, but a lot 
of people, including one locally that I approached about doing the work thought 
that the material was stainless steel, and it turned out to be anodized 
aluminum.  This company also does anodizing, and may do chrome plating but that 
I am not totally sure of.  You should have this info within a week, if you need 
it quicker I will do everything I can to get to you quicker.

   

   

  Chuck Speake

  1970 Chevelle Malibu

  Glen Ellyn, Illinois

  [EMAIL PROTECTED]

   

   

   

  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mike Holleman
  Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 8:21 AM
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Trim needed

   

  Thanks for the info Chuck. The piece I need is not reproduced and is 
stainless. I have reworked it and it is passable but far from perfect. This is 
the only flaw in this build and I want to make it better if the part can be 
found.

  Thanks

  Mike

- Original Message - 

From: Chuck Speake 

To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 

Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 8:29 PM

Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Trim needed

 

Hi Mike,

I had some of my aluminum trim reworked about two years ago and they did a 
great job, came back looking like new.  The company is located in northern 
Indiana.  I have a 70 Chevelle Malibu that has the aluminum strips that run 
from the front of the fender to the bottom of the drip molding.  In all I sent 
them 6 pieces and they removed all dents, scratches, and buffed them to a high 
shine.  They would have anodized them clear for a fee but I did not have time 
to leave them to have that done.  For all 6 pieces it cost $275 which I did not 
think was bad especially when these parts are not being reproduced by anyone.  
I had another place quote me $400 and to be honest I don't think I would trust 
him with my parts.(probably ruin them)

If you want to have your current piece reworked let me know and I will try 
to the names and phone number and send it to you.  If you are looking for a new 
piece have you tried some of the restoration companies like Year One, or Ground 
Up, etc.  Would they have that part?

Good luck,

 

Chuck Speake

1970 Chevelle Malibu

Glen Ellyn, Illinois

[EMAIL PROTECTED]

 

 

 

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mike Holleman
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 12:48 PM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Trim needed

 

Thanks Herb, I did not find it at Goodguys either.

Was good running into Jim there. He hasn't changed a bit.

Later

  - Original Message - 

  From: Herb Lumpp 

  To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 

  Sent: Friday, October 26, 2007 6:07 AM

  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Trim needed

   

  Hi Mike.  It looks like your request for a trim piece got hi-jacked and 
turned into an oil thread.  Oh, and sorry, I don't have the trim piece you're 
looking for.

   

  Herb

   


--

  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mike 
Holleman
  Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2007 9:00 AM
  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] Trim needed

  I am doing the finishing touches on a 66 Chevelle (2 dr. coupe) and I'm 
having a time finding one little piece of trim. I need the ss weatherstrip trim 
on the pass side a pillar. I was able to straighten the original piece enough 
to use it, but it still shows some dents and takes away from the cars overall 
fin

Re: [Chevelle-list] Trim needed

2007-10-29 Thread Mike Holleman
Thanks for the info Chuck. The piece I need is not reproduced and is stainless. 
I have reworked it and it is passable but far from perfect. This is the only 
flaw in this build and I want to make it better if the part can be found.
Thanks
Mike
  - Original Message - 
  From: Chuck Speake 
  To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 
  Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 8:29 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Trim needed


  Hi Mike,

  I had some of my aluminum trim reworked about two years ago and they did a 
great job, came back looking like new.  The company is located in northern 
Indiana.  I have a 70 Chevelle Malibu that has the aluminum strips that run 
from the front of the fender to the bottom of the drip molding.  In all I sent 
them 6 pieces and they removed all dents, scratches, and buffed them to a high 
shine.  They would have anodized them clear for a fee but I did not have time 
to leave them to have that done.  For all 6 pieces it cost $275 which I did not 
think was bad especially when these parts are not being reproduced by anyone.  
I had another place quote me $400 and to be honest I don't think I would trust 
him with my parts.(probably ruin them)

  If you want to have your current piece reworked let me know and I will try to 
the names and phone number and send it to you.  If you are looking for a new 
piece have you tried some of the restoration companies like Year One, or Ground 
Up, etc.  Would they have that part?

  Good luck,

   

  Chuck Speake

  1970 Chevelle Malibu

  Glen Ellyn, Illinois

  [EMAIL PROTECTED]

   

   

   

  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mike Holleman
  Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 12:48 PM
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Trim needed

   

  Thanks Herb, I did not find it at Goodguys either.

  Was good running into Jim there. He hasn't changed a bit.

  Later

- Original Message - 

From: Herb Lumpp 

To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 

Sent: Friday, October 26, 2007 6:07 AM

Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Trim needed

 

Hi Mike.  It looks like your request for a trim piece got hi-jacked and 
turned into an oil thread.  Oh, and sorry, I don't have the trim piece you're 
looking for.

 

Herb

 




From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mike Holleman
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2007 9:00 AM
To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Trim needed

I am doing the finishing touches on a 66 Chevelle (2 dr. coupe) and I'm 
having a time finding one little piece of trim. I need the ss weatherstrip trim 
on the pass side a pillar. I was able to straighten the original piece enough 
to use it, but it still shows some dents and takes away from the cars overall 
finish. Anybody got one or know where one might be found? I have already 
exhausted my normal sources.

Thanks

Mike Holleman




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Re: [Chevelle-list] Trim needed

2007-10-28 Thread Mike Holleman
Thanks Herb, I did not find it at Goodguys either.
Was good running into Jim there. He hasn't changed a bit.
Later
  - Original Message - 
  From: Herb Lumpp 
  To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 
  Sent: Friday, October 26, 2007 6:07 AM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Trim needed


  Hi Mike.  It looks like your request for a trim piece got hi-jacked and 
turned into an oil thread.  Oh, and sorry, I don't have the trim piece you're 
looking for.

  Herb



--
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mike Holleman
  Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2007 9:00 AM
  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] Trim needed


  I am doing the finishing touches on a 66 Chevelle (2 dr. coupe) and I'm 
having a time finding one little piece of trim. I need the ss weatherstrip trim 
on the pass side a pillar. I was able to straighten the original piece enough 
to use it, but it still shows some dents and takes away from the cars overall 
finish. Anybody got one or know where one might be found? I have already 
exhausted my normal sources.
  Thanks
  Mike Holleman


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1:58 PM


[Chevelle-list] Trim needed

2007-10-25 Thread Mike Holleman
I am doing the finishing touches on a 66 Chevelle (2 dr. coupe) and I'm having 
a time finding one little piece of trim. I need the ss weatherstrip trim on the 
pass side a pillar. I was able to straighten the original piece enough to use 
it, but it still shows some dents and takes away from the cars overall finish. 
Anybody got one or know where one might be found? I have already exhausted my 
normal sources.
Thanks
Mike Holleman

Re: [Chevelle-list] March P/S bracket on BBC in 1970 Chevelle

2007-10-16 Thread Mike Holleman
You have a little different problem than I had, but March is aware of PS pump 
clearance issues on BBC in Chevelles. I'm sure they will have a solution for 
you.
Mike
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2007 5:46 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] March P/S bracket on BBC in 1970 Chevelle


  Thanks Mike.  Actually I cheaped out and just bought their Conversion Kit.  I 
supplied my own chrome p/s pump.

  Heres the links so were on the same page.

  kit:
  
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MCH%2D23020&N=700+0&autoview=sku

  pump:
  
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MCH%2DP304&N=700+4294908216+4294925081+115&autoview=sku

  I can put some pictures up on photobucket if anyone would like to see the 
interference issue.  

  In the meanwhile, I'm going to try to contact March as you recommended Mike.

  Thank you

  Dan McIntosh

- Original Message - 
From: Mike Holleman 
To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2007 9:00 AM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] March P/S bracket on BBC in 1970 Chevelle


Dan, What March provides for your situation is a polished pump, and a 
bracket that does not cover the pump. I'm assuming you are using remote 
reservoir. I just went thru a major problem with the March system on a 502 in a 
66 Chevelle. I first bought the Ultra system. Will not work in a Chevelle with 
a big block as it only leaves 5" in which to fit the cooling system. A call to 
March customer service will get you the right pieces.
Mike
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
  Sent: Monday, October 15, 2007 8:12 PM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] March P/S bracket on BBC in 1970 Chevelle


  Alrighty, I ran into a bit of a snafu today.  I bought a March serpentine 
conversion kit from Summit a few months ago and just got around to trying to 
install it this weekend.

  The problem I'm having is that the power steering bracket that was 
supplied with the kit tries to mount the pump too low on the engine, making the 
pump body hit the steering box.

  Wondering if anyone on the list has had this problem and if so, what was 
the remedy?  

  Thank you much

  Dan McIntosh


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8:22 AM


Re: [Chevelle-list] March P/S bracket on BBC in 1970 Chevelle

2007-10-16 Thread Mike Holleman
Dan, What March provides for your situation is a polished pump, and a bracket 
that does not cover the pump. I'm assuming you are using remote reservoir. I 
just went thru a major problem with the March system on a 502 in a 66 Chevelle. 
I first bought the Ultra system. Will not work in a Chevelle with a big block 
as it only leaves 5" in which to fit the cooling system. A call to March 
customer service will get you the right pieces.
Mike
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
  Sent: Monday, October 15, 2007 8:12 PM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] March P/S bracket on BBC in 1970 Chevelle


  Alrighty, I ran into a bit of a snafu today.  I bought a March serpentine 
conversion kit from Summit a few months ago and just got around to trying to 
install it this weekend.

  The problem I'm having is that the power steering bracket that was supplied 
with the kit tries to mount the pump too low on the engine, making the pump 
body hit the steering box.

  Wondering if anyone on the list has had this problem and if so, what was the 
remedy?  

  Thank you much

  Dan McIntosh


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6:48 AM


Re: [Chevelle-list] 700r4 TV Followup

2007-10-03 Thread Mike Holleman
You're welcome.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Rick Schaefer 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 3:18 PM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] 700r4 TV Followup


 THANX Mike for your advice on the plunger.  

   When I dropped the pan, the plunger was shy of fully holed by about 1/8 inch 
with the throttle wide open.  Adjusted it correctly & now the el camino shifts 
& downshifts better than it has since I was using a carb.  BTW - I used the 
visual check of the plunger when I installed the 700 with the carb,  so I can 
guarantee that method works.  Thanx again to all who made an input on that 
problem.  

  -- 
  Rick Schaefer
  72 TPI El Camino

   


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11:10 AM


Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking

2007-10-01 Thread Mike Holleman
Dan, The rods are approx. 1" different in length. If you have a short rod, less 
than an inch in length your hole depth in the M/C should be the same. The only 
problem comes if your M/C has the deep hole, more than an inch and the booster 
the short. Always bench bleed the M/C. You need to be sure you fully stroke the 
M/C until you get no more air. The M/C when mounted does not get fully stroked 
and herein lies the problem trying to bleed it mounted. Get the little kit at 
Auto Zone for M/C bleeding. Has threaded nipples and clear tubes. That way you 
can see the air is gone.
Mike
  - Original Message - 
  From: Daniel Solomon 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 3:14 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking


  Mike,

  How will I know if the rod and the M/C match?
  I think I will try bench bleeding the M/C tonight. The entire system was 
installed dry so it sounds like this has to be done no matter what.

  Thanks, Dan
- Original Message - 
From: Mike Holleman 
To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 11:52 AM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking


A couple of questions. There are two types of masters. One for the long 
push rod and one for the short. If your booster has the short rod and your M/C 
is a long style you are not stroking the M/C. Also, did you bench bleed the 
M/C? This is necessary to get good pedal. One more, there should be two 
different mounting locations(holes) in the brake pedal arm for the clevis to 
attach to. The upper is for manual brakes and the lower for power.
Mike  
  - Original Message - 
  From: Daniel Solomon 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 1:18 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking


  I didn't realize that there was a different master cylinder for power 
brakes. I bought the one I have on the car before I thought about adding the 
power assist.
  Sounds like its worth a try. Think I have a original 70 master cylinder 
in the shed. Maybe I will try my hand at a rebuild.

  Thanks, Dan
- Original Message - 
From: Brad Waller 
To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 11:15 AM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking


My first thought was that the Master Cylinder was bad.  Even though it 
is new, it could be.  Or maybe you need to adjust the plunger/pedal?  It has 
been way too long for me, but I had the opposite problem of the brakes applying 
themselves after a while until the wheels locked.  That was from the 
adjustement bein off the other direction.  Too tight and the brakes are always 
on!  Maybe too loose and you get lots of travel and no pressure.

Is the master the right one for the other parts? You say you might put 
the booster back on the firewall, so does this mean the master is a non-power 
master?  I'm not sure what would happen if you had a power master with no 
booster, but I think it would be a problem to add a booster to a manual master 
cylinder.  If things are mismatched here, maybe that is why you get no power 
from your braking?
Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED])

'66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1
'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX



--
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Daniel 
Solomon
  Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 9:52 AM
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking


  Picked up my 70 Chevelle from the body shop on Thursday and took it 
for its maiden voyage this weekend. Car looks and runs great but won't stop. I 
have absolutely NO pedal. Its not spongy but way to much pedal travel. 
Hopefully someone out there can guide me to a solution. Here is what i am 
running...

  4 Wheel Drum Brakes - All pads and hardware are brand new
  4 New Brake Cylinders
  New Drum Brake Master Cylinder
  Used GM Power Booster
  Original Proportioning Valve
  All New Lines
  Silicone Brake Fluid

  I adjusted all of the brakes but it did not help. Bled them again but 
did not find any air in the lines. Wondering if I should ditch the booster and 
put the master cylinder back on the firewall as it was before. It is the only 
thing that I changed in the setup.

  Any help would be greatly appreciated. Now that I have it done I want 
to drive!

  Thanks, Dan


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Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking

2007-10-01 Thread Mike Holleman
A couple of questions. There are two types of masters. One for the long push 
rod and one for the short. If your booster has the short rod and your M/C is a 
long style you are not stroking the M/C. Also, did you bench bleed the M/C? 
This is necessary to get good pedal. One more, there should be two different 
mounting locations(holes) in the brake pedal arm for the clevis to attach to. 
The upper is for manual brakes and the lower for power.
Mike  
  - Original Message - 
  From: Daniel Solomon 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 1:18 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking


  I didn't realize that there was a different master cylinder for power brakes. 
I bought the one I have on the car before I thought about adding the power 
assist.
  Sounds like its worth a try. Think I have a original 70 master cylinder in 
the shed. Maybe I will try my hand at a rebuild.

  Thanks, Dan
- Original Message - 
From: Brad Waller 
To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 11:15 AM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking


My first thought was that the Master Cylinder was bad.  Even though it is 
new, it could be.  Or maybe you need to adjust the plunger/pedal?  It has been 
way too long for me, but I had the opposite problem of the brakes applying 
themselves after a while until the wheels locked.  That was from the 
adjustement bein off the other direction.  Too tight and the brakes are always 
on!  Maybe too loose and you get lots of travel and no pressure.

Is the master the right one for the other parts? You say you might put the 
booster back on the firewall, so does this mean the master is a non-power 
master?  I'm not sure what would happen if you had a power master with no 
booster, but I think it would be a problem to add a booster to a manual master 
cylinder.  If things are mismatched here, maybe that is why you get no power 
from your braking?
Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED])

'66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1
'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX



--
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Daniel 
Solomon
  Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 9:52 AM
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking


  Picked up my 70 Chevelle from the body shop on Thursday and took it for 
its maiden voyage this weekend. Car looks and runs great but won't stop. I have 
absolutely NO pedal. Its not spongy but way to much pedal travel. Hopefully 
someone out there can guide me to a solution. Here is what i am running...

  4 Wheel Drum Brakes - All pads and hardware are brand new
  4 New Brake Cylinders
  New Drum Brake Master Cylinder
  Used GM Power Booster
  Original Proportioning Valve
  All New Lines
  Silicone Brake Fluid

  I adjusted all of the brakes but it did not help. Bled them again but did 
not find any air in the lines. Wondering if I should ditch the booster and put 
the master cylinder back on the firewall as it was before. It is the only thing 
that I changed in the setup.

  Any help would be greatly appreciated. Now that I have it done I want to 
drive!

  Thanks, Dan


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10:20 AM


Re: [Chevelle-list] 700R4 shifting

2007-09-27 Thread Mike Holleman
Dave, www.kugelkomponents.com makes a nice conversion kit that makes your 
column shifter work well with the 700R4.
Mike

  - Original Message - 
  From: Dave Benjamin 
  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
  Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 10:09 AM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] 700R4 shifting


  I just picked up a 700R4 to replace my 350 Turbo in my 1968 Beaumont. 
Currently RPM too high on highways. Is there any way to get a 2spd column to 
shift all the gears. It can just do the 3spd now, but 1st is hard to get.

  Thank you for all input. Also found the shifter cable thread handy.

  Taking time to beat on the classics.
  http://youtube.com/watch?v=SNdBR56AIO4

  Thanks Again
  Dave
  Ingersoll,Ontario
  My Web Site: http://members.tripod.com/benj30/


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11:06 AM


Re: [Chevelle-list] 700r4 TV Cable Adjustment

2007-09-27 Thread Mike Holleman
Rick, I hope I'm understanding correctly that you haven't changed the linkage, 
just replaced the cable on a system that was working right before? You adjust 
the throttle cable first with the TV unhooked. Then adjust the TV to fully 
stroke the plunger. The plunger cannot be over stroked due too the design of 
the lever that works it. The lever will bottom out against the valve body. But 
I don't know any other way to be sure the plunger is fully stroked without 
watching it. 
Mike
  - Original Message - 
  From: Rick Schaefer 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 11:02 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 700r4 TV Cable Adjustment


Mike, I understood what you were saying about WOT.   Several web pages that 
I looked at just said to ensure that at WOT, the cable can not pull out 
further.   I assume ( we'll see where that gets me) that if the cable is fully 
extended then the plunger must be at full travel.  Would that be correct?I 
just hate to drop the tranny pan. On the other hand I'd hate it more to burn up 
the tranny. 

 bad66 -  The TV cable adjustment is critical.   If its not correct you can 
burn up the tranny within just a few miles. Or so I've read on many web pages.  
I was looking for info on adjusting it by the pressure readings, but Mike 
reminded me of the remove the pan & visually check the plunger method.   

  I am concerned right now because I had the TPI system apart and want to 
get the TV cable adjustment right.If you have been driving yours a while & 
everything works correctly I'd say that you are close enough.   Do a google 
search (there is a LOT on the web)  or read the links that Mike provided 
earlier for better info than I can provide. 

   
  On 9/26/07, Mike Holleman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: 
Rick, The procedure is the same for the TPI system. I didn't catch that in 
your post. What is important is that you are getting WOT and that the plunger 
get's fully stroked. 
Mike
  - Original Message - 
  From: Rick Schaefer 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 3:05 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 700r4 TV Cable Adjustment

   
Thank You Dale, that should work most excellently! And  Mike thanx 
for the information.   This is for a TPI system, not carb.   But I know that 
the procedure is the same, just different bracket.  That info looks  very 
familiar, I forgot about it.  I used that procedure when I first installed 
the 700 with a carburetor .Messy but I know it works. 


  On 9/26/07, Mike Holleman <[EMAIL PROTECTED] > wrote: 
Rick, The best way to set the TV cable requires the pan off the trans. 
You disconnect the TV cable at the carb, make sure the throttle is giving you 
WOT. Then connect the cable and get a friend to mash the pedal to WOT. The 
plunger that is activated by the TV cable needs to be fully pushed into the 
valve body, basically flushed. If it is not adjust the cable tension until it 
is.  If you are using BTO's brackets on the carb end and a Lokar cable, this is 
the basic adjustment. If you are just changing out a cable you need not worry 
about any pressure settings. 
Mike Holleman
  - Original Message - 
  From: Rick Schaefer 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 10:41 AM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 700r4 TV Cable Adjustment

   
Thanx Brad, but that particular post & most everything else I've 
googled refer to a stock cable.  There is no tab to push down with the LOKAR 
cable.  Its a braided cable, adjusted by movement of lock nuts at the mount 
bracket.   

The TV Made EZ page & its links give the procedure with a braided 
cable, but not the specific pressures to look for.   Bowtie OD wants you to 
record the pressues, email them, and then they tell you what adjustments to 
make (as far as I could find). 
   
 Late last nite I found a Swedish (I think) web site thgat gave the 
pressures in KpA (??) and if I can find some type of conversion chart it may 
help.  Any more info will sure be appreciated.  I've had great luck & 
reliability with this tranny for 10 years & don't want to burn it up now. 
   
  On 9/26/07, Brad Waller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: 
Rick Schaefer wrote: 
 Does anyone have instructions/advice for adjusting the TV 
cable on my 700?   I am using a LOKAR TV Cable & Bracket on a TPI motor, not 
the stock zip & click stock cable.When I installed it several years ago, I 
adjusted it using a gauge and had to read specific pressure ranges for each 
gear.  I can't find the info used back then.  Thanx 

  -- 
  Rick Schaefer
  72 

Re: [Chevelle-list] 700r4 TV Cable Adjustment

2007-09-26 Thread Mike Holleman
Rick, The procedure is the same for the TPI system. I didn't catch that in your 
post. What is important is that you are getting WOT and that the plunger get's 
fully stroked.
Mike
  - Original Message - 
  From: Rick Schaefer 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 3:05 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 700r4 TV Cable Adjustment


Thank You Dale, that should work most excellently! And  Mike thanx for 
the information.   This is for a TPI system, not carb.   But I know that the 
procedure is the same, just different bracket.  That info looks  very familiar, 
I forgot about it.  I used that procedure when I first installed the 700 
with a carburetor .Messy but I know it works. 


  On 9/26/07, Mike Holleman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: 
Rick, The best way to set the TV cable requires the pan off the trans. You 
disconnect the TV cable at the carb, make sure the throttle is giving you WOT. 
Then connect the cable and get a friend to mash the pedal to WOT. The plunger 
that is activated by the TV cable needs to be fully pushed into the valve body, 
basically flushed. If it is not adjust the cable tension until it is.  If you 
are using BTO's brackets on the carb end and a Lokar cable, this is the basic 
adjustment. If you are just changing out a cable you need not worry about any 
pressure settings. 
Mike Holleman
  - Original Message - 
  From: Rick Schaefer 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 10:41 AM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 700r4 TV Cable Adjustment

   
Thanx Brad, but that particular post & most everything else I've 
googled refer to a stock cable.  There is no tab to push down with the LOKAR 
cable.  Its a braided cable, adjusted by movement of lock nuts at the mount 
bracket.   

The TV Made EZ page & its links give the procedure with a braided 
cable, but not the specific pressures to look for.   Bowtie OD wants you to 
record the pressues, email them, and then they tell you what adjustments to 
make (as far as I could find). 
   
 Late last nite I found a Swedish (I think) web site thgat gave the 
pressures in KpA (??) and if I can find some type of conversion chart it may 
help.  Any more info will sure be appreciated.  I've had great luck & 
reliability with this tranny for 10 years & don't want to burn it up now. 
   
  On 9/26/07, Brad Waller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: 
Rick Schaefer wrote: 
 Does anyone have instructions/advice for adjusting the TV cable on 
my 700?   I am using a LOKAR TV Cable & Bracket on a TPI motor, not the stock 
zip & click stock cable.When I installed it several years ago, I adjusted 
it using a gauge and had to read specific pressure ranges for each gear.  I 
can't find the info used back then.  Thanx 

  -- 
  Rick Schaefer
  72 TPI El Camino


One reference (from Corvette Forum):
The TV cable adjustment is made on the side of the carb. It is 
something that can be done in a few minutes. If your pivot point is correct all 
you do is push in the metal tab on the cable mount and push the nose towards 
the firewall or into the mounting bracket then take the carb throttle linkage 
and give it full throttle until the cable ratcheted out and the butterflies of 
the carb are at full throttle position. This should adjust the TV cable 
correctly. If you make the cable shorter by pushing it into the body the shifts 
are alot harder You can try this but the 1st time you floor it the cable will 
self adjust. I mentioned the throttle stud must be in the correct location so 
that at a given throttle position the TV cable is pulled out the correct amount 
for line pressure. I have these demensions but not here. The shop that rebuilt 
my transmission wanted my copy for their files. Remember to adjust the TV cable 
nothing but the aircleaner must come off. 

Chevelle Forum: 
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-79170.html 

Bowtie Overdrives has a detailed PDF on this and more:
http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/Instructions/TV_101-1.pdf 

You can also read a few other sites:
http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/transmission/tvcable.html 
http://www.transmissioncenter.net/subject.htm

-- 

Brad Waller 


  -- 
  Rick Schaefer
  72 TPI El Camino




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  -- 
  Rick Schaefer
  72 TPI El Camino




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Re: [Chevelle-list] 700r4 TV Cable Adjustment

2007-09-26 Thread Mike Holleman
Rick, The best way to set the TV cable requires the pan off the trans. You 
disconnect the TV cable at the carb, make sure the throttle is giving you WOT. 
Then connect the cable and get a friend to mash the pedal to WOT. The plunger 
that is activated by the TV cable needs to be fully pushed into the valve body, 
basically flushed. If it is not adjust the cable tension until it is.  If you 
are using BTO's brackets on the carb end and a Lokar cable, this is the basic 
adjustment. If you are just changing out a cable you need not worry about any 
pressure settings.
Mike Holleman
  - Original Message - 
  From: Rick Schaefer 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 10:41 AM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 700r4 TV Cable Adjustment


Thanx Brad, but that particular post & most everything else I've googled 
refer to a stock cable.  There is no tab to push down with the LOKAR cable.  
Its a braided cable, adjusted by movement of lock nuts at the mount bracket.   

The TV Made EZ page & its links give the procedure with a braided cable, 
but not the specific pressures to look for.   Bowtie OD wants you to record the 
pressues, email them, and then they tell you what adjustments to make (as far 
as I could find). 
   
 Late last nite I found a Swedish (I think) web site thgat gave the 
pressures in KpA (??) and if I can find some type of conversion chart it may 
help.  Any more info will sure be appreciated.  I've had great luck & 
reliability with this tranny for 10 years & don't want to burn it up now. 
   
  On 9/26/07, Brad Waller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: 
Rick Schaefer wrote: 
 Does anyone have instructions/advice for adjusting the TV cable on my 
700?   I am using a LOKAR TV Cable & Bracket on a TPI motor, not the stock zip 
& click stock cable.When I installed it several years ago, I adjusted it 
using a gauge and had to read specific pressure ranges for each gear.  I can't 
find the info used back then.  Thanx 

  -- 
  Rick Schaefer
  72 TPI El Camino


One reference (from Corvette Forum):
The TV cable adjustment is made on the side of the carb. It is something 
that can be done in a few minutes. If your pivot point is correct all you do is 
push in the metal tab on the cable mount and push the nose towards the firewall 
or into the mounting bracket then take the carb throttle linkage and give it 
full throttle until the cable ratcheted out and the butterflies of the carb are 
at full throttle position. This should adjust the TV cable correctly. If you 
make the cable shorter by pushing it into the body the shifts are alot harder 
You can try this but the 1st time you floor it the cable will self adjust. I 
mentioned the throttle stud must be in the correct location so that at a given 
throttle position the TV cable is pulled out the correct amount for line 
pressure. I have these demensions but not here. The shop that rebuilt my 
transmission wanted my copy for their files. Remember to adjust the TV cable 
nothing but the aircleaner must come off. 

Chevelle Forum: 
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-79170.html 

Bowtie Overdrives has a detailed PDF on this and more:
http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/Instructions/TV_101-1.pdf 

You can also read a few other sites:
http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/transmission/tvcable.html 
http://www.transmissioncenter.net/subject.htm

-- 

Brad Waller 


  -- 
  Rick Schaefer
  72 TPI El Camino




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8:02 AM


Re: [Chevelle-list] Bike for sale

2007-09-20 Thread Mike Holleman
An interesting side note, in the late sixties, Honda built a six cylinder 250CC 
bike to  roadrace in Europe. A British rider named Mike Halewood won back to 
back world titles on this bike, so the FIM outlawed the use of multicylinder 
engines. They didn't like a Japanese brand coming over and kicking butt.  Honda 
walked away from this form of racing for many years. Yamaha designed their TD 
series of twin cylinder two stroke bikes and dominated the 250 class for a 
couple of decades. Can you imagine what a 250cc four stroke six cylinder engine 
looked like? Tiny little pistons and valves. It turned over 18,000 rpms. 
Mike Holleman- Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
  Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2007 2:36 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Bike for sale


  Thanks for the picture & the additional info Terry.  It's still available.  

  Thanks for the support Dan.  Obviously John didn't know what a CBX was when 
he compared it to his bike.  Now he does.  (Kinda like a Chevelle SS to a Vega. 
 I bought a new Vega in 1973.  Lost it to my ex in the divorce.  Actually it 
was my good fortune to get rid of them both!!!)  No insult taken John.  Don't 
anyone lose any sleep or get aggravated over this.  And if you like you can 
insult my car too.  It's just a clean driver & it has issues as many do except 
for maybe the queens.  OOPS!!!  Did I just start something?  I feel a footprint 
on my tongue.  You guys are the greatest & this list was one of the best things 
I ever found.  For technical assistance & just plain entertainment.  And now 
that we know what a CBX is, most of us learned something today.  If any 
interest or know someone who might be, email me me off line @ [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  Thanks all & have a great day.  End of topic.   


  Phil G. 65 SS  MCC#36  ACES#555  TC#1766  VCCA  LGC  AMCA#1321   


  -Original Message-
  From: Terry S Hodges <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List ; The Chevelle 
Mailing List 
  Sent: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 9:05 am
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Bike for sale


  This might explain why they are so popular. I tried to buy one several years 
ago restored...Wished I had tried harder..

1979 Honda CBX 
 
   
   
  A 1000cc 6 cylinder motorcycle which was the first over 100 HP 
production motorcycle. It had to be detuned in Europe to be legal. One of 
Honda’s engineering exercises. As one journalist put it, "6 cylinders, 24 
valves and no common sense". Production lasted only from 1979 to 1982 because 
they were not popular. Oddly enough, good ones are now in high demand. 
   


--
  Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail!



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12:07 PM


Re: [Chevelle-list] Engine Lift Plate

2007-09-12 Thread Mike Holleman
The engine was on the stand when it failed. No damage, but I learned a lesson 
from his experience.
Mike
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
  Sent: Wednesday, September 12, 2007 4:16 AM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Engine Lift Plate


  In a message dated 9/11/2007 12:47:36 PM Central Daylight Time, [EMAIL 
PROTECTED] writes:



John, The only failure I am aware of with the manifold lift adapter is a 
bud had the part you hook into on the top pull through. It was a poorly 
designed cheapo.
Mike



  wow!! did the engine fall off then?? 


  **
  See what's new at http://www.aol.com 


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5:43 PM


Re: [Chevelle-list] Engine Lift Plate

2007-09-11 Thread Mike Holleman
John, The only failure I am aware of with the manifold lift adapter is a bud 
had the part you hook into on the top pull through. It was a poorly designed 
cheapo.
Mike
  - Original Message - 
  From: John 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 8:13 AM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Engine Lift Plate


  Thanx guysI just wasn't sure about them...I will try using one now that I 
havn't heard of any bad experiences with them..Just make sure I used good bolts 
and have them on tight...
  John
  66 Chevelle
  327 4 speed


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5:43 PM


Re: [Chevelle-list] ignition

2007-08-21 Thread Mike Holleman
Jimmy, number one can be anywhere you want it. I set the dist. with the engine 
at TDC. There is not a wrong place for number. Some caps have a mark for number 
one as a reference point. The way you have it should work just fine.
Mike
  - Original Message - 
  From: Jim & Chris 
  To: Chevelle Forum 
  Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2007 6:58 PM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] ignition


  I am having a difference of opinion. I had the distributor out and replaced 
the cap. I had marked the distrbutor before I took it out so it is back to its 
original position. I cranked the motor to 8 degrees BTDC on the #1 cylinder, 
pointed the rotor towards the #1 cylinder I then put the I put the respective 
plug wires clock wise around the cap in there respective firing order 
1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2. in the chilton book it shows the #1 plug lead on the 
distributor being on the passenger side verses being on the driver side with 
the rotor pointing towards the # 1 cylinder the way I have it set up , but 
would like to hear what you guys think befoe I fire it up. Jimmy C


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5:44 PM


Re: [Chevelle-list] Fender-Door Gap Adjustment

2007-08-16 Thread Mike Holleman
Rick, You are right. Hinges first. Crack the door open and try to lift the back 
of the door up and down to check for worn hinges. Fix as needed. As fas as door 
adjustments it is easier with the fenders off, but there is a tool made to 
access the hinge bolts. Older body shops usually have one. You might be better 
off the find a shop that can do this for you. Two or three shims at the fender 
brace are normal but may not be needed in your case. Get the door right before 
moving forward to the fender.
Mike
  - Original Message - 
  From: Rick Schaefer 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2007 10:16 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Fender-Door Gap Adjustment


 Took a good look at all that you have mentioned.  Problems everywhere! 
   The door to rocker gaps are incorrect.  Both sides are tilted slightly back 
towards the rear.The drivers side core support bushing looks like it has an 
extra washer or 2 under it - compared to passenger side.   The drivers fender 
bolt at the hood hinge has 2 shims and the passenger side looks like it has 2 
plus a thinner shim.   

From Mikes answer I'd guess that the first order of business is to square 
the doors.Is there a way to be certain that the problem is not sloppy 
hinges?  The painter rebuilt one side & replaced the other when it was 
painted but its been a while. Also it looks like it would be a bunch easier 
to remove the fenders to make the hinge adjustments.  True?  

  Thats enough questions for tonite, anymore & I'll get confused/more confused. 
 Thanx.

   
  On 8/14/07, Dave Benjamin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: 
I have had to Space up the rad support before. Not sure if it was a body, 
rad mount problem or if the car got bent?

Dave
Ingersoll,Ontario
My Web Site: http://members.tripod.com/benj30/ 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Rick Schaefer 
  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
  Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2007 2:37 PM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] Fender-Door Gap Adjustment

   
  I'm finally getting round to try to even out the door to fender gap 
on my 72 elky.   Both sides are equally bad, a good gap at the bottom & then 
widen out significantly at the top. I believe that the doors are hung 
straight because the door to rear quarter panels have an even gap. Pictures 
are at link below.

  http://www.flickr.com/photos/[EMAIL PROTECTED]/sets/72157601417827062/

  It appears to me that the same adjustment is out of whack on both sides, 
but which one?I've never messed with the panels so want to get some advice 
before I loosen the fenders.  

   Is it possible that frame sag is pulling the front of both fenders in?   
The body & core support bushings were replaced with poly about 10 years ago.  
Honestly I don't remember if I had the problem before it was painted (years ago 
also).  Painter did take the fenders & doors offback then.  
  thank you.
  -- 
  Rick Schaefer
  72 TPI El Camino

   


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8/13/2007 10:15 AM






  -- 
  Rick Schaefer
  72 TPI El Camino




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5:19 PM


Re: [Chevelle-list] Fender-Door Gap Adjustment

2007-08-14 Thread Mike Holleman
Rick,
What does your gap look like to the rocker to door?  When I adjust a car I set 
door to rocker first, then door to rear quarter. Once this is done you set 
everything else to the door. Do you have a bunch of shims between the upper 
fender mount and the firewall? Are the bushings under the radiator support 
gone?  Something is way out of whack. 
Mike 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Rick Schaefer 
  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
  Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2007 2:37 PM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] Fender-Door Gap Adjustment


  I'm finally getting round to try to even out the door to fender gap on my 
72 elky.   Both sides are equally bad, a good gap at the bottom & then widen 
out significantly at the top. I believe that the doors are hung straight 
because the door to rear quarter panels have an even gap. Pictures are at 
link below.

  http://www.flickr.com/photos/[EMAIL PROTECTED]/sets/72157601417827062/

  It appears to me that the same adjustment is out of whack on both sides, but 
which one?I've never messed with the panels so want to get some advice 
before I loosen the fenders.  

   Is it possible that frame sag is pulling the front of both fenders in?   The 
body & core support bushings were replaced with poly about 10 years ago.  
Honestly I don't remember if I had the problem before it was painted (years ago 
also).  Painter did take the fenders & doors offback then.  
  thank you.
  -- 
  Rick Schaefer
  72 TPI El Camino

   


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10:15 AM


Re: [Chevelle-list] March serpentine kit instructions

2007-08-07 Thread Mike Holleman
I use the old adage that when all else fails go dig the instructions out of the 
trash can. Which means I only pay attention to them when I have to.
Mike
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
  Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2007 6:38 PM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] March serpentine kit instructions


  So I bought this Serpentine kit to put on the big block, but dang, I cant 
even get past the first set of instructions!
  I have a feeling this will not go well!  

  Can you guys help me out?

  http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i43/216rider/haha/DSCN4070Medium.jpg

  http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i43/216rider/haha/DSCN4071Medium.jpg


  Dan McIntosh
  90'd out 1983 Fleetwood Coupe 
  Street Metal Fabrications
  http://www.lowriderimpala.com



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Re: [Chevelle-list] Compression Test

2007-07-22 Thread Mike Holleman
You don't have a compression issue. Those are respectable numbers. Look for 
your oil consumption problem in the heads.
Mike Holleman
  - Original Message - 
  From: Johnny Palmer 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2007 12:22 PM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] Compression Test


  I did a compression test on my small block 327..all the cylinders turned up 
to be very close with the lowest being 152 psi and the highest being 155 
psi...I can't find a reference anywhere to see if these numbers are within 
specs or are too lowCan anyone help me out..???..My engine is burning a 
little bit of oil and I suspect the valve guides are worn but wanted to do a 
compression test to check the condition of the rings...
  John
  66 Malibu
  327 4 speed


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3:52 PM


Re: [Chevelle-list] 67 door lock rods

2007-07-13 Thread Mike Holleman
Mike, I most likely have a set in my attic. It may take me a day or two to 
round em up. I'll let you know.

Mike Holleman
- Original Message - 
From: "mike f" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Friday, July 13, 2007 4:50 PM
Subject: [Chevelle-list] 67 door lock rods


Greetings all.

I have lost the rods that go to the door lock knobs from inside the door. 
Does anyone have these?


Appreciate it

Mike
Valley View Texas






Sick sense of humor? Visit Yahoo! TV's
Comedy with an Edge to see what's on, when.
http://tv.yahoo.com/collections/222


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4:08 PM






Re: [Chevelle-list] Windshield install clips etc.

2007-06-13 Thread Mike Holleman
Chuck, Be sure to install your clips before the windshield is in place. I 
use Butyl rubber tape. It is available at most good parts stores. Use either 
3/8" or 5/16". If you have never done this before get some help. It is hard 
to describe the process in an email. Check the team chevelle achieves for WS 
installation instructions.

Mike
- Original Message - 
From: "Chuck Kranz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" 
Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2007 2:10 PM
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Windshield install clips etc.



howardholland wrote:
Its not a problem,just make sure you install new clips to hold down the 
trim,if the old ones are bad.


The real fun starts is when you put the trim back on and you have new 
paint to deal with..opps


I scratch my new paint...Have at it.

Howard


Where is a good source for clips and installation sealer? (if you call it 
that) I believe the clips are placed around the windshield and the sealer 
is applied to the body. Then the glass is carefully installed. Anyone do 
this often enough to give advice?

Thanks,
Chuck K.




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Re: [Chevelle-list] just a test

2007-06-13 Thread Mike Holleman
Thanks to all for confirming I'm not all alone. My cable got popped by 
lightning on Sat. So roadrunner replaced everything from the street to my 
computor. Luckily it did not enter the house.

Mike
- Original Message - 
From: "Herb Lumpp" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "'The Chevelle Mailing List'" 
Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2007 5:54 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] just a test



I for one am wrenching on my Chevelle!  Maybe I can at least get one good
trip around the block before the cold sets in!

Herb


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Matthew Post
Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2007 5:50 PM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] just a test

I wish!

Everyone must be wrenching on their rides instead of typing about
themat least I hope so!

At 01:42 PM 6/13/2007, you wrote:

Yeah.  I thought all you guys went on vacation together...


> -Original Message-
> From: Randy S Johnson [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2007 05:35 PM
> To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List'
> Cc: chevelle-list@chevelles.net, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject:  Re: [Chevelle-list] just a test
>
> You are working just fine.  It has been a slow time in the chevelle
> e-mail forum recently.
>
> Thank You,
>
>
>
>
> "Mike Holleman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent by:
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 06/13/2007 12:29 PM
> Please respond to
> The Chevelle Mailing List 
>
>
>
> To
> 
> cc
>
>
>
> Subject
> [Chevelle-list] just a test
>
>
>
>
> Caterpillar: Confidential Green Retain Until: 07/13/2007

Retention

> Category:  G90 - General Matters/Administration
>
>
> Roadrunner changed out my Modem a couple of days ago and I haven't
> seen a list email since.
> Testing
> Mike H
>





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9:42 PM








[Chevelle-list] just a test

2007-06-13 Thread Mike Holleman
Roadrunner changed out my Modem a couple of days ago and I haven't seen a list 
email since.
Testing
Mike H

Re: [Chevelle-list] Radio Repair

2007-05-25 Thread Mike Holleman
Mention my name to him D.R. It may help get him interested in your problem.
Mike Holleman
  - Original Message - 
  From: D.R. Jones 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Friday, May 25, 2007 5:33 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Radio Repair


  Thanks Mike, just what I was looking for, will contact him next week.

  D.R. Jones

  Mike Holleman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
DR, We have a local guy that has been repairing car radios for over fifty 
years. Wayne Beasley/ Antique Radio Repair
3307 Country Club Rd. Morehead City,NC 28557.
252-726-4719. I can highly recommend him. He knows his stuff and is honest 
and fair. 
    Mike Holleman
  - Original Message - 
  From: D.R. Jones 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2007 6:47 PM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] Radio Repair


  I have a non-operating AM radio out of a 1970 Monte Carlo that I need to 
send off to get fixed.  The only local place here went out of business.  The 
last place I used made the radio look really good, but it would stop working as 
soon as I turned it on.  Can anyone recommend a good repair place I can send it 
to?  Thanks.

  D.R. Jones

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3:59 PM





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Re: [Chevelle-list] Radio Repair

2007-05-24 Thread Mike Holleman
DR, We have a local guy that has been repairing car radios for over fifty 
years. Wayne Beasley/ Antique Radio Repair
3307 Country Club Rd. Morehead City,NC 28557.
252-726-4719. I can highly recommend him. He knows his stuff and is honest and 
fair. 
Mike Holleman
  - Original Message - 
  From: D.R. Jones 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2007 6:47 PM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] Radio Repair


  I have a non-operating AM radio out of a 1970 Monte Carlo that I need to send 
off to get fixed.  The only local place here went out of business.  The last 
place I used made the radio look really good, but it would stop working as soon 
as I turned it on.  Can anyone recommend a good repair place I can send it to?  
Thanks.

  D.R. Jones


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Re: [Chevelle-list] JUNK Sanderson headers

2007-05-23 Thread Mike Holleman

I have not used Doug Thorleys, only Dougs. Not sure about differences.
Mike
- Original Message - 
From: "Matthew Post" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" ; "The Chevelle 
Mailing List" 

Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2007 5:33 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] JUNK Sanderson headers


Just to clarify my question, there are 2 companies now, but are their 
products the same?  Is one better than the other for any reason?  Just 
curious.


Thanks,
Matt

At 02:24 PM 5/23/2007, Matthew Post wrote:

Thanks for all the responses.

I noticed by searching Google that there is a Doug's Headers and a Doug 
Thorley Headers.  Some of the header pics look like the same thing.  Are 
they the same?  Maybe this has to do with the divorce someone mentioned?


At 09:34 AM 5/23/2007, Mike Holleman wrote:
Matt, I'm the one that recommended Doug's. I can't compare them to 
Hedmans but they fit much better than Hookers and fit much tighter under 
the car as well. The last two sets I used on Abodys had the lowest point 
above the crossmember. The last set of Hookers I used dropped well below 
the crossmember. And frankly Dougs quality was clearly better than 
Hookers.

Mike
- Original Message - From: "Matthew Post" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" 
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2007 11:46 AM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] JUNK Sanderson headers


In your experience, which headers have the best fit?  Hedmans?  Someone 
else said Doug's fit good?  My main concern is ground clearance.


-Matt

At 06:34 PM 5/22/2007, Mike Holleman wrote:
I know what your dealing with. I have used Sanderson's on customers 
cars. Ill fit and poor welds. We swapped headers with them on a Nova 
and the second time they failed I just rewelded them myself.

Mike
- Original Message - From: "Michael Pell" 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" 
Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2007 8:12 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] JUNK Sanderson headers


I have the BB3 intermediates.  I'd say, don't bother.  Just return 
them.


Mike H.  I have a BBC Chevelle with manual trans, and I want the 
'shorty'/intermediate headers.  Hedman and Sanderson are the only 2 
headers I know of that will fit.Oops, make that "Hedman is the 
only ones I think will will fit".


AGG!!!

--
 I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find 
out there isn't, Than live my

 life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal
 Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com
 TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com
 Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold),  ACES member #1377
 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6



Matthew Post wrote:

I'm also having an issue with Sanderson headers for my BBC.  They 
bolt up okay, but the passenger side header rubs the frame.  Usually 
the passenger side slides right in and the driver's side is the tight 
one! I was going to exchange the long tube for their intermediate 
ones, but now I don't know if I should bother.


Matt

At 03:59 PM 5/22/2007, Michael Pell wrote:




Has anyone ever actually bolted on a set of Sanderson  
headers?
Of 5 sets for a BBC that I know of, not a single set will bolt up to 
a a BBC.
That's 0 for 5   aaahh!!   My first set would not 
bolt on.  Called Sanderson, talked to the owner.  She (yes, she) 
started giving me some lame excuses for why it might not bolt on.  I 
don't care about your quality issues...  She said they'll send me a 
new set;  test fitted to ensure they will work for me.2 week 
later, I call to inqure as the whereabouts of my new set.   Jeremy 
says, " we only had 3 sets on hand, and 2 of the sets would not bolt 
on to a set of heads; the 'good' set will ship out today".  Why 2 
weeks later on the day I call to inquire?  and why would 3 of 4 sets 
not bolt up?  Junk, that's why!


So I get them, finally, nearly 3 weeks later.   Tonight I test fit 
one one.  NOT!  Stupid junk crap still won't bolt on.   42 years of 
the same bolt pattern; same head, same, same same!  arrrgghhh!  I've 
spent $500.00 and wasted 2 months on these headers.


How hard is it to bolt up to a 40+ year old design?  I could build a 
flange myself that would bolt up, with a hand drill!


I guess I get to grind and cut on a brand new set of coated 
headers..   AAGGHHH!!!


I'm wishing I would've saved time and money and frustration, and 
bought a set of Hedman's...


A buddy of mine has the same set of headers... same problem, will 
not bolt up .  That's 5 of 5 sets.   Stupid junk crap.  I'm going to 
look for the 'made in Taiwan' sticker.




--
--
 I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and di

Re: [Chevelle-list] JUNK Sanderson headers

2007-05-23 Thread Mike Holleman
Dale, I haven't used Dougs on a small block, so I don't know. My 327 in my 
Elky has Hooker super comps and the spark plugs are fairly easy. Two plugs 
are behind tubes, so a wrench has to be used instead of a socket. Once I 
break them loose I can get them in and out with my fingers. On a 502 I just 
installed in a 66 Chevelle I used Dougs with no issues with the plugs.

Mike
- Original Message - 
From: "Dale" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "'The Chevelle Mailing List'" 
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2007 12:49 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] JUNK Sanderson headers



How are the Doug's or Hedmans on spark plug access?  I have some brand (on
the car when I bought it) on my 67 SBC El Camino and two plugs (1 and 5) 
are

impossible to get to without unbolting the collector and dropping the
header.  Makes it a pain when the alternator & power steering have to be
removed as well.

I'm not particularly interested in a 'performance' gain, just access to
plugs without having to take stuff off. I'm almost ready to go back to 
stock

manifolds.

Dale McIntosh
1966/67 Chevelle Reference CDs
ChevelleStuff.com


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mike Holleman
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2007 11:35 AM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] JUNK Sanderson headers

Matt, I'm the one that recommended Doug's. I can't compare them to Hedmans
but they fit much better than Hookers and fit much tighter under the car 
as

well. The last two sets I used on Abodys had the lowest point above the
crossmember. The last set of Hookers I used dropped well below the
crossmember. And frankly Dougs quality was clearly better than Hookers.
Mike
- Original Message -
From: "Matthew Post" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" 
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2007 11:46 AM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] JUNK Sanderson headers



In your experience, which headers have the best fit?  Hedmans?  Someone
else said Doug's fit good?  My main concern is ground clearance.

-Matt

At 06:34 PM 5/22/2007, Mike Holleman wrote:

I know what your dealing with. I have used Sanderson's on customers cars.
Ill fit and poor welds. We swapped headers with them on a Nova and the
second time they failed I just rewelded them myself.
Mike
- Original Message - From: "Michael Pell"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" 
Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2007 8:12 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] JUNK Sanderson headers



I have the BB3 intermediates.  I'd say, don't bother.  Just return
them.

Mike H.  I have a BBC Chevelle with manual trans, and I want the
'shorty'/intermediate headers.  Hedman and Sanderson are the only 2
headers I know of that will fit.Oops, make that "Hedman is the only
ones I think will will fit".

AGG!!!

--
 I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out
there isn't, Than live my
 life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal
 Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com
 TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com
 Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold),  ACES member #1377
 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6



Matthew Post wrote:


I'm also having an issue with Sanderson headers for my BBC.  They bolt
up okay, but the passenger side header rubs the frame.  Usually the
passenger side slides right in and the driver's side is the tight one!
I was going to exchange the long tube for their intermediate ones, but
now I don't know if I should bother.

Matt

At 03:59 PM 5/22/2007, Michael Pell wrote:




Has anyone ever actually bolted on a set of Sanderson   headers?
Of 5 sets for a BBC that I know of, not a single set will bolt up to a
a BBC.
That's 0 for 5   aaahh!!   My first set would not bolt
on.  Called Sanderson, talked to the owner.  She (yes, she) started
giving me some lame excuses for why it might not bolt on.  I don't 
care
about your quality issues...  She said they'll send me a new set; 
test

fitted to ensure they will work for me.2 week later, I call to
inqure as the whereabouts of my new set.   Jeremy says, " we only had 
3

sets on hand, and 2 of the sets would not bolt on to a set of heads;
the 'good' set will ship out today".  Why 2 weeks later on the day I
call to inquire?  and why would 3 of 4 sets not bolt up?  Junk, that's
why!

So I get them, finally, nearly 3 weeks later.   Tonight I test fit one
one.  NOT!  Stupid junk crap still won't bolt on.   42 years of the
same bolt pattern; same head, same, same same!  arrrgghhh!  I've spent
$500.00 and wasted 2 months on these headers.

How hard is it to bolt up to a 40+ year old design?  I could build a
fla

Re: [Chevelle-list] JUNK Sanderson headers

2007-05-23 Thread Mike Holleman
Matt, I'm the one that recommended Doug's. I can't compare them to Hedmans 
but they fit much better than Hookers and fit much tighter under the car as 
well. The last two sets I used on Abodys had the lowest point above the 
crossmember. The last set of Hookers I used dropped well below the 
crossmember. And frankly Dougs quality was clearly better than Hookers.

Mike
- Original Message - 
From: "Matthew Post" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" 
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2007 11:46 AM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] JUNK Sanderson headers


In your experience, which headers have the best fit?  Hedmans?  Someone 
else said Doug's fit good?  My main concern is ground clearance.


-Matt

At 06:34 PM 5/22/2007, Mike Holleman wrote:
I know what your dealing with. I have used Sanderson's on customers cars. 
Ill fit and poor welds. We swapped headers with them on a Nova and the 
second time they failed I just rewelded them myself.

Mike
- Original Message - From: "Michael Pell" 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" 
Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2007 8:12 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] JUNK Sanderson headers


I have the BB3 intermediates.  I'd say, don't bother.  Just return 
them.


Mike H.  I have a BBC Chevelle with manual trans, and I want the 
'shorty'/intermediate headers.  Hedman and Sanderson are the only 2 
headers I know of that will fit.Oops, make that "Hedman is the only 
ones I think will will fit".


AGG!!!

--
 I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out 
there isn't, Than live my

 life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal
 Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com
 TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com
 Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold),  ACES member #1377
 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6



Matthew Post wrote:

I'm also having an issue with Sanderson headers for my BBC.  They bolt 
up okay, but the passenger side header rubs the frame.  Usually the 
passenger side slides right in and the driver's side is the tight one! 
I was going to exchange the long tube for their intermediate ones, but 
now I don't know if I should bother.


Matt

At 03:59 PM 5/22/2007, Michael Pell wrote:




Has anyone ever actually bolted on a set of Sanderson   headers?
Of 5 sets for a BBC that I know of, not a single set will bolt up to a 
a BBC.
That's 0 for 5   aaahh!!   My first set would not bolt 
on.  Called Sanderson, talked to the owner.  She (yes, she) started 
giving me some lame excuses for why it might not bolt on.  I don't care 
about your quality issues...  She said they'll send me a new set;  test 
fitted to ensure they will work for me.2 week later, I call to 
inqure as the whereabouts of my new set.   Jeremy says, " we only had 3 
sets on hand, and 2 of the sets would not bolt on to a set of heads; 
the 'good' set will ship out today".  Why 2 weeks later on the day I 
call to inquire?  and why would 3 of 4 sets not bolt up?  Junk, that's 
why!


So I get them, finally, nearly 3 weeks later.   Tonight I test fit one 
one.  NOT!  Stupid junk crap still won't bolt on.   42 years of the 
same bolt pattern; same head, same, same same!  arrrgghhh!  I've spent 
$500.00 and wasted 2 months on these headers.


How hard is it to bolt up to a 40+ year old design?  I could build a 
flange myself that would bolt up, with a hand drill!


I guess I get to grind and cut on a brand new set of coated 
headers..   AAGGHHH!!!


I'm wishing I would've saved time and money and frustration, and bought 
a set of Hedman's...


A buddy of mine has the same set of headers... same problem, will not 
bolt up .  That's 5 of 5 sets.   Stupid junk crap.  I'm going to look 
for the 'made in Taiwan' sticker.




--
--
 I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out 
there isn't, Than live my

 life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal

 Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com
 TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com
 Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold),  ACES member #1377
 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6







--
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Re: [Chevelle-list] JUNK Sanderson headers

2007-05-22 Thread Mike Holleman
I know what your dealing with. I have used Sanderson's on customers cars. 
Ill fit and poor welds. We swapped headers with them on a Nova and the 
second time they failed I just rewelded them myself.

Mike
- Original Message - 
From: "Michael Pell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" 
Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2007 8:12 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] JUNK Sanderson headers


I have the BB3 intermediates.  I'd say, don't bother.  Just return 
them.


Mike H.  I have a BBC Chevelle with manual trans, and I want the 
'shorty'/intermediate headers.  Hedman and Sanderson are the only 2 
headers I know of that will fit.Oops, make that "Hedman is the only 
ones I think will will fit".


AGG!!!

--
 I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out 
there isn't, Than live my

 life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal
 Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com
 TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com
 Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold),  ACES member #1377
 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6



Matthew Post wrote:

I'm also having an issue with Sanderson headers for my BBC.  They bolt up 
okay, but the passenger side header rubs the frame.  Usually the 
passenger side slides right in and the driver's side is the tight one!  I 
was going to exchange the long tube for their intermediate ones, but now 
I don't know if I should bother.


Matt

At 03:59 PM 5/22/2007, Michael Pell wrote:




Has anyone ever actually bolted on a set of Sanderson   headers?
Of 5 sets for a BBC that I know of, not a single set will bolt up to a a 
BBC.
That's 0 for 5   aaahh!!   My first set would not bolt 
on.  Called Sanderson, talked to the owner.  She (yes, she) started 
giving me some lame excuses for why it might not bolt on.  I don't care 
about your quality issues...  She said they'll send me a new set;  test 
fitted to ensure they will work for me.2 week later, I call to 
inqure as the whereabouts of my new set.   Jeremy says, " we only had 3 
sets on hand, and 2 of the sets would not bolt on to a set of heads; the 
'good' set will ship out today".  Why 2 weeks later on the day I call to 
inquire?  and why would 3 of 4 sets not bolt up?  Junk, that's why!


So I get them, finally, nearly 3 weeks later.   Tonight I test fit one 
one.  NOT!  Stupid junk crap still won't bolt on.   42 years of the same 
bolt pattern; same head, same, same same!  arrrgghhh!  I've spent 
$500.00 and wasted 2 months on these headers.


How hard is it to bolt up to a 40+ year old design?  I could build a 
flange myself that would bolt up, with a hand drill!


I guess I get to grind and cut on a brand new set of coated 
headers..   AAGGHHH!!!


I'm wishing I would've saved time and money and frustration, and bought 
a set of Hedman's...


A buddy of mine has the same set of headers... same problem, will not 
bolt up .  That's 5 of 5 sets.   Stupid junk crap.  I'm going to look 
for the 'made in Taiwan' sticker.




--
--
 I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out 
there isn't, Than live my

 life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal

 Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com
 TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com
 Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold),  ACES member #1377
 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6









--
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Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 
269.7.6/814 - Release Date: 5/21/2007 2:01 PM








Re: [Chevelle-list] JUNK Sanderson headers

2007-05-22 Thread Mike Holleman

Don't hold back, tell us how you really feel.
I have got to where I just buy Doug's. I have yet to be disappointed.
Mike
- Original Message - 
From: "Michael Pell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "ChevelleList" 
Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2007 6:59 PM
Subject: [Chevelle-list] JUNK Sanderson headers





Has anyone ever actually bolted on a set of Sanderson   headers?  Of 
5 sets for a BBC that I know of, not a single set will bolt up to a a BBC.
That's 0 for 5   aaahh!!   My first set would not bolt on. 
Called Sanderson, talked to the owner.  She (yes, she) started giving me 
some lame excuses for why it might not bolt on.  I don't care about your 
quality issues...  She said they'll send me a new set;  test fitted to 
ensure they will work for me.2 week later, I call to inqure as the 
whereabouts of my new set.   Jeremy says, " we only had 3 sets on hand, 
and 2 of the sets would not bolt on to a set of heads; the 'good' set will 
ship out today".  Why 2 weeks later on the day I call to inquire?  and why 
would 3 of 4 sets not bolt up?  Junk, that's why!


So I get them, finally, nearly 3 weeks later.   Tonight I test fit one 
one.  NOT!  Stupid junk crap still won't bolt on.   42 years of the same 
bolt pattern; same head, same, same same!  arrrgghhh!  I've spent $500.00 
and wasted 2 months on these headers.
How hard is it to bolt up to a 40+ year old design?  I could build a 
flange myself that would bolt up, with a hand drill!


I guess I get to grind and cut on a brand new set of coated 
headers..   AAGGHHH!!!


I'm wishing I would've saved time and money and frustration, and bought a 
set of Hedman's...


A buddy of mine has the same set of headers... same problem, will not bolt 
up .  That's 5 of 5 sets.   Stupid junk crap.  I'm going to look for the 
'made in Taiwan' sticker.




--
--
 I would rather live my life as if there is a God, and die to find out 
there isn't, Than live my

 life as if there isn't, And die to find out there is. -Blaise Pascal
 Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com
 TREMEC Distributor at http://www.5speedTransmissions.com
 Team Chevelle member #1778 (Gold),  ACES member #1377
 Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6



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Re: [Chevelle-list] Rear Gutter Set

2007-05-07 Thread Mike Holleman
I tried to buy a set a month or so back. The CS rep at OPG confided in me that 
the items are in the catalog but they have never had any on the shelf. I made 
mine.
Mike
  - Original Message - 
  From: Daniel De Smet 
  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
  Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2007 11:31 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Rear Gutter Set






  I have ordered them for my 64, but they are on back order and OPGI can't seem 
to give me any idea when they may be available.  I was hopping that my car 
would be done in time for the Power Tour but it is not looking good since I 
cant finish out the trunk without the gutter set.

  Dan
  1964 Chevelle





From: "Crazy Rusty" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED],The Chevelle Mailing List 

To: 
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Rear Gutter Set
Date: Sun, 6 May 2007 15:09:46 -0700


I was looking at a rear gutter set in the OPGI catalog. anyone use one of 
these?  Mine is toast and I suppose I could make my own but don't want to spend 
the time.





Thanks,

JB

69 Chevelle Malibu





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AM


Re: [Chevelle-list] Differential Question

2007-05-06 Thread Mike Holleman
Larry, There is a crush collar inside the front housing that sets the 
pinion/ring gear endplay. By removing the pinion nut that setting has been 
lost. I am not aware of anyway to get this corrected short of a new crush 
collar and re torque the nut for proper meshing.  You can only use the crush 
seal once. Maybe someone else can advise you differently.

Mike
- Original Message - 
From: "Larry Williams" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" 
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2007 2:49 PM
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Differential Question


My neighbor has a 12 bolt Eaton gear set-up on his 66.  He had the pinion 
seal changed, and now has a noise while driving.  How can this maintenance 
effect the pinion depth if they just removed the nut, popped in a new seal 
and retightened the nut?


Larry Williams


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Re: [Chevelle-list] 69 chevelle rear disc brake

2007-04-23 Thread Mike Holleman
Clyde, Before you buy Baer. take a look at www.touring-classics.com. Much 
cheaper for the same basic brake kit.
Mike
  - Original Message - 
  From: Clyde 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 4:28 PM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] 69 chevelle rear disc brake


  Hello to all fellow members,i have a 69 chevelle,i was interested in putting 
rear disc brakes on it.I know i can buy a baer kit,but was wonering if any 
members knew if 91 firebird rear calipre supports,rotors and calipres will 
work.I'am building a 12 bolt for the same car,i would like to mount all the 
rear disc brake goodies before it goes into the car.Any suggestions?of what 
goodies to use,thanks for reading .Clyde. 


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Re: [Chevelle-list] flowmasters?

2007-04-08 Thread Mike Holleman
Tom, A three inch system will make a little more power on a BBC, but the main 
difference is the sound. Deeper, throatier sound. Plus that big pipe coming out 
from under the quarter panel just plain looks good.
Mike
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
  Sent: Sunday, April 08, 2007 2:14 AM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] flowmasters?


  Hi all,  Happy Easter..
  I'm thinking of replacing my old exhaust system with a flowmaster kit,  ans 
not sure what the benefits of the 3" system vs the 2.5" are? I have a 396 with 
around 400 hp, 5 speed, 3.73 rear end, street driver..Thanks for your input in 
advance..Tom P





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9:30 PM


Re: [Chevelle-list] bench seat

2007-04-03 Thread Mike Holleman
Matt, I made one into a nice couch that sits by the pool table. As of right 
now, I have three. One from a 64 and two 65s.
Mike
  - Original Message - 
  From: Matthew Post 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2007 5:50 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] bench seat


  on the subject of bench seats.I have one from my '69 in the garage since 
I'm switching to buckets.  The question is, what should I do with it?  Is it 
worth trying to sell it?  I'm not sure how I would go about shipping it to 
someone.  Any ideas?  

  I always wanted to clean it up and bring it in the house, but I'm not sure 
that would go over too well with the Mrs.  I always thought it would make a 
great video game chair.  What do you guys think?  I'd feel guilty just tossing 
it out.

  -Matt



  At 02:37 PM 4/3/2007, Ed Riggins wrote:

It's true for both bucket and bench seats.  ER



From: "ronnie, a.k.a. rocko" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2007 13:44:55 -0700 (PDT)
To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] bench  seat

thanks  for  the  reply  malibu,  another  lesson,  didnt  realize  buckets 
 there  was  a  difference  in  the  buckets,  thats  why  i  like  the  list,  
always  learning,  thanks  again

Malibu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  

 

  I believe that to be true for bench seat. I know it is for buckets.





- Original Message - 

 

From: ronnie, a.k.a. rocko < mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] >  

 

To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net 

 

Sent: Monday, April 02, 2007 9:11 AM

 

Subject: [Chevelle-list] bench seat

 


hello,  just  picked  up  a  split  bench  seat  on  e - bay,  when  
talking  to  the  seller  he  said  theres  a  difference  between  a  66  and  
67,  the  difference  being  on  a  66  you  can  just  move  the  seat  and  
crawl  in  the  back,  and  on  a  67  they  lock  in  place  and  one  needs  
to  pull  up  on  the  bottom  lever  to  release,  i  have  always  had  
buckets  and  really  not  up  on  the  bench  seat,  was  just  wondering  if  
this  is  true  or  not,  this  info  may  help  someone  else  on  the  list  
restoring  a  66  or  67  and  getting  it  correct,  is  the  seller  correct 
?

 


 Need Mail bonding?

Go to the Yahoo! Mail Q&A < 
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5:32 AM


Re: [Chevelle-list] 1965 Hood Alignment

2007-03-24 Thread Mike Holleman
Dennis,  There is nothing simple in hood adjustment. Are the hinges in good 
shape? Without major wear? Once you know you are not fighting loose hinges it 
is a matter of up and down adjustment of the hinge mounting bolts. The rear 
bolts have a small amount of movement, the front have more. Problem is the 
effect of a slight change can be big. Mark your hinge bolt postion before you 
start so you can see where you started. Make little adjustments. Good luck.
Mike 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dennis McGillis 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Friday, March 23, 2007 10:14 PM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] 1965 Hood Alignment


  Hi Guys,

  When trying to adjust my hood so the back edge aligns with the cowl, I 
grabbed my GM Body Service Manual and GM Assembly Manual to check out how the 
factory tells us to do it.  At present the hood is about 1/4" higher.  But... 
they do not address the issue at all.  Am I missing a chapter?  Is there a 
simple procedure?

  Thanks,
  Dennis McGillis
  1965 Malibu SS-350


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7:44 AM


Re: [Chevelle-list] Re-Assembly

2007-03-23 Thread Mike Holleman
Jim, You can do everything you mentioned with the body off. The brake lines 
all but tying into the master, the fuel lines but for hooking to the tank. 
The exhaust system etc. It does make for a much easier task. Also take 
pictures when complete. You'll never get to see it like that again. I have a 
completely built 66 sitting in my shop waiting for the body to come back 
from the P&B shop. C5 brakes, all Global west suspension components, AFX 
spindles. A new 502/502 crate motor with BTO 700R4 and a Moser rear. It sure 
is purty.

Mike

- Original Message - 
From: "Jim Sullivan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" 
Sent: Friday, March 23, 2007 11:04 AM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re-Assembly



I was checking out the Car Craft link regarding the "BBC Frame stands" that
Jim T. provided and am wondering about my own re-assembly.  I have the 
frame
out and am doing the front end rebuild and should be done in the next 
couple

weeks or so.  I have to install the new rear end and suspension then I'll
have a rolling chassis.
My question is premature at this point, but I'm wondering how much of the
car can I put together before I have to drop the body back on.  Working on
the engine, drive train, tranny, headers, brake lines, gas lines, etc.
would be lots easier without a body and working from above rather than on 
my

back.
Unfortunately, I don't have a lift.  Damned
Thanks for any thoughts and suggestions.
Jim





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Re: [Chevelle-list] 71 SS Power steering pump bracketsandAmericanRacing Wheels.

2007-03-21 Thread Mike Holleman

I buy those hoses all the time at the local Carquest by model and year.
Mike
- Original Message - 
From: "John W. Lonadier, Jr." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "'The Chevelle Mailing List'" 
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2007 2:29 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 71 SS Power steering pump 
bracketsandAmericanRacing Wheels.




No John, sorry I don't. All I did was call the local NAPA store and told
them what I had and they were able to look it up. It fit just fine, even
had that extra foam over the hose itself to keep it from chaffing. Hope
this helps. Also sorry it took so long to answer but I was having a
little out going email trouble because of my ISP.

John L.
ACES #5597
70 LS5 TRIBUTE
http://chevellfan.com/index89.html
http://www.larueclassics.com/gallery/gallery%20pages/lodanier-chv70.html


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John Nasta
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2007 11:45 AM
To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 71 SS Power steering pump bracketsand
AmericanRacing Wheels.


Got a part# by any chance?


Quoting "John W. Lonadier, Jr." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>:


Bob, I found a pressure side hose for my '70 at my local NAPA parts
place. The ends were bent like original. Mine is a '70 big block car
with stock location for the pump and stock exhaust manifolds though.
Hope this helps.

John L.

ACES #5597

70 LS5 TRIBUTE

 
http://chevellfan.com/index89.html



http://www.larueclassics.com/gallery/gallery%20pages/lodanier-chv70.ht
ml








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7:52 AM








Re: [Chevelle-list] testing send time

2007-03-16 Thread Mike Holleman
Dale, I'm about as far east as you can go. 2500' from the water.
Mike
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale 
  To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 
  Sent: Friday, March 16, 2007 1:36 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] testing send time


  You'd be amazed at the path some Internet traffic takes.  I received the test 
date/time stamped at 3/16/2007 8:46 A.M. CST.  Depending on your time zone, I 
assume eastern (?), I received it 1 minute after being sent.  If you're not on 
the east coast I got before you sent it. :*)

   

  Dale 


--

  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mike Holleman
  Sent: Friday, March 16, 2007 8:46 AM
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] testing send time

   

  I am sending this to test the time it takes to post.Sent 3/16 at 9:45 AM. The 
post just in from me responding to Joe was sent on Tuesday the 13th.

  Mike Holleman



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12:12 PM


Re: [Chevelle-list] testing send time

2007-03-16 Thread Mike Holleman
Thanks Larry. Don't know what happened to the other post. Lost in cyber space 
for three days.
Mike
  - Original Message - 
  From: Larry Shouse 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Friday, March 16, 2007 9:49 AM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] testing send time


  Got it timestamped 9:49 on my end.

  Larry Shouse



-Original Message- 
From: Mike Holleman 
Sent: Mar 16, 2007 9:45 AM 
To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
Subject: [Chevelle-list] testing send time 


I am sending this to test the time it takes to post.Sent 3/16 at 9:45 AM. 
The post just in from me responding to Joe was sent on Tuesday the 13th.
    Mike Holleman


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12:12 PM


Re: [Chevelle-list] testing send time

2007-03-16 Thread Mike Holleman
Good deal Joe. That is one car that will gain more value the more stock it 
is. If it needs restoring, do it to concourse. You may have your hands on 
one of the ones that could be worth five times your investment within a few 
short years.

Mike
- Original Message - 
From: "Rozanski Joe (GS/EMP4-NA)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" 
Sent: Friday, March 16, 2007 9:53 AM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] testing send time


Mike
I received at about 9:51 am the 16th
I am now sending this reply 9:52 am the 16th
Purchased the L79 66 nova ss

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mike Holleman
Sent: Friday, March 16, 2007 9:46 AM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: [Chevelle-list] testing send time

I am sending this to test the time it takes to post.Sent 3/16 at 9:45
AM. The post just in from me responding to Joe was sent on Tuesday the
13th.
Mike Holleman


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Re: [Chevelle-list] Off subject of chevelles

2007-03-16 Thread Mike Holleman

You are going to buy it aren't you Joe?
Mike


- Original Message - 
From: "Rozanski Joe (GS/EMP4-NA)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" 
Sent: Friday, March 16, 2007 9:59 AM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Off subject of chevelles


Guy has owned it since 1968. car is flawless. 13800 miles on od. Said it
was disconnected for
2 summers when car was running at strip, he figures no more than 16000
max.
Car is perfect down to ss hubcaps, aqua on aqua, doesn't even look like
anyone
Sat in it. $15,000 he said just lost interest in it and only takes it
out 2 times a year for
The last few years. Little surface rust on underbody that's it.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mike Holleman
Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2007 3:13 PM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Off subject of chevelles

Joe, It's a 327/350 HP L79. Highly sought after. Fairly low production.
Sounds like you found a good one. If you don't want it let me know where
it
is and how to contact the owner. If it's all original and in reasonable
condition it should be worth over $30,000. maybe more. My buddy paid
$32,000
for his five years ago. It was in OK and he had been looking for one for

years. It is now a musuem piece.
My best friend growing up ordered one in 66. Silver with a black painted

top. I turned 16 on April 20,1967 and he let me drive it home from
school
that PM. My head barely fit thru the door. They are great cars.
Mike Holleman

- Original Message - 
From: "Rozanski Joe (GS/EMP4-NA)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" 
Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2007 2:23 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Off subject of chevelles


Mike,
Can you fill me in on the L79 option.
Was it a high output motor with low production numbers?
Or a SS with a V8 option?
Little more info if you have please!
I know you do not want to hear this- guy has owned since high school (in
his fiftys)
Always in garage, driven few times a yr- uncut except for fenderwell
headers.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mike Holleman
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 5:38 PM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Off subject of chevelles

Joe, That model is a worthless piece of junk. Nobody wants a 66 Nova SS
w/L79 option. Give me the info on where it is and I'll get it out of the
way so noone get's burned. 13,000 original miles? If it's not been
sitting out in the weather for several years should be worth a wad. I
have a customer that has one with 26,000 miles in mint condition. I
would price his in the high fifties.
Mike Holleman

- Original Message - 
From: Rozanski Joe (GS/EMP4-NA)

<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
<mailto:chevelle-list@chevelles.net>
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 10:37 AM
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Off subject of chevelles


Looking at a 66 nova ss with 13,000 miles on it. It has a L79
motor in it. Guy talked like it was a kind of rare option!

Can any of you chevy gurus enlighten me on this?

Detroitiron_joe







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[Chevelle-list] testing send time

2007-03-16 Thread Mike Holleman
I am sending this to test the time it takes to post.Sent 3/16 at 9:45 AM. The 
post just in from me responding to Joe was sent on Tuesday the 13th.
Mike Holleman

Re: [Chevelle-list] Off subject of chevelles

2007-03-16 Thread Mike Holleman
Joe, It's a 327/350 HP L79. Highly sought after. Fairly low production. 
Sounds like you found a good one. If you don't want it let me know where it 
is and how to contact the owner. If it's all original and in reasonable 
condition it should be worth over $30,000. maybe more. My buddy paid $32,000 
for his five years ago. It was in OK and he had been looking for one for 
years. It is now a musuem piece.
My best friend growing up ordered one in 66. Silver with a black painted 
top. I turned 16 on April 20,1967 and he let me drive it home from school 
that PM. My head barely fit thru the door. They are great cars.

Mike Holleman

- Original Message - 
From: "Rozanski Joe (GS/EMP4-NA)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" 
Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2007 2:23 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Off subject of chevelles


Mike,
Can you fill me in on the L79 option.
Was it a high output motor with low production numbers?
Or a SS with a V8 option?
Little more info if you have please!
I know you do not want to hear this- guy has owned since high school (in
his fiftys)
Always in garage, driven few times a yr- uncut except for fenderwell
headers.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mike Holleman
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 5:38 PM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Off subject of chevelles

Joe, That model is a worthless piece of junk. Nobody wants a 66 Nova SS
w/L79 option. Give me the info on where it is and I'll get it out of the
way so noone get's burned. 13,000 original miles? If it's not been
sitting out in the weather for several years should be worth a wad. I
have a customer that has one with 26,000 miles in mint condition. I
would price his in the high fifties.
Mike Holleman

- Original Message - 
From: Rozanski Joe (GS/EMP4-NA)

<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
<mailto:chevelle-list@chevelles.net>
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 10:37 AM
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Off subject of chevelles


Looking at a 66 nova ss with 13,000 miles on it. It has a L79
motor in it. Guy talked like it was a kind of rare option!

Can any of you chevy gurus enlighten me on this?

Detroitiron_joe







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Re: [Chevelle-list] part search

2007-03-14 Thread Mike Holleman
Thanks guys. I found what I needed yesterday in Mo.
Mike
  - Original Message - 
  From: Devin 
  To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 
  Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2007 10:46 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] part search


  Mike-  I know Ebay has been mentioned, but I would like to add to look for 
not only glove box locks but entire doors as well.  I sold one a couple of 
years ago for about $10.  It was complete with lock assembly, trim and hinges.  
If you have access to an interchange manual you could also find out what other 
years/makes to look for.  I doubt GM used an item like that for one year in one 
model.

   

  Devin

   


--

  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mike Holleman
  Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2007 5:56 AM
  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] part search

   

  Fellow listers. I am in need of a part that is not reproduced. I am restoring 
a 66 and the glove box latch lock and housing is missing. I have a new lock and 
key assy, but no case for it. Any help is appreciated.

  Mike Holleman



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[Chevelle-list] part search

2007-03-13 Thread Mike Holleman
Fellow listers.  I am in need of a part that is not reproduced. I am restoring 
a 66 and the glove box latch and lock housing is missing. I have a new lock 
assy and key but no case for it. Any help will be appreciated.
Mike Holleman

Re: [Chevelle-list] part search

2007-03-13 Thread Mike Holleman
Darrell, Thanks for the lead. I'll contact him.
Mike
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
  Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2007 5:53 PM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] part search


  Mike, I have gotten several hard to find parts from a man in Ozark, Mo. he 
has several Chevelles. If you can't find it you might call him. Andre 
417-725-4292, or [EMAIL PROTECTED] or www.chevelleparts.net . He may have what 
you are looking for. Darrell





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7:19 PM


[Chevelle-list] part search

2007-03-13 Thread Mike Holleman
Fellow listers. I am in need of a part that is not reproduced. I am restoring a 
66 and the glove box latch lock and housing is missing. I have a new lock and 
key assy, but no case for it. Any help is appreciated.
Mike Holleman

Re: [Chevelle-list] Off subject of chevelles

2007-03-12 Thread Mike Holleman
Off subject of chevellesJoe, That model is a worthless piece of junk. Nobody 
wants a 66 Nova SS w/L79 option. Give me the info on where it is and I'll get 
it out of the way so noone get's burned. 13,000 original miles? If it's not 
been sitting out in the weather for several years should be worth a wad. I have 
a customer that has one with 26,000 miles in mint condition. I would price his 
in the high fifties. 
Mike Holleman
  - Original Message - 
  From: Rozanski Joe (GS/EMP4-NA) 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 10:37 AM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] Off subject of chevelles


  Looking at a 66 nova ss with 13,000 miles on it. It has a L79 motor in it. 
Guy talked like it was a kind of rare option!

  Can any of you chevy gurus enlighten me on this? 

  Detroitiron_joe 



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8:41 AM


Re: [Chevelle-list] LED Lights

2007-03-11 Thread Mike Holleman
Try changing your flasher can to an electronic flasher can. Like the one's made 
for trucks. Not sure it will correct your issue but it may.
Mike
  - Original Message - 
  From: Johnny Palmer 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2007 4:50 PM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] LED Lights


  Hi Guys...I just installed some LED 1157 bulbs in the tail  and in the front 
turn signal sockets on my 66...Now when I use the turn signals its like I have 
4 way flashers...both sides are flashing...Anyone else have this 
happen...??...Any ideas or should a guy just put the regular bulbs back 
in..???...The LED's seem much brighter I would like to keep them if I 
canThanx for any suggestions..
  John
  66 Malibu SS 


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9:27 AM


Re: [Chevelle-list] Dyno Time

2007-03-08 Thread Mike Holleman
325 if auto. 335 if manual.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Devin 
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
  Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 10:25 PM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] Dyno Time


  I’m finally going to get my 64 on the chassis dyno tomorrow evening to get 
timing, jetting etc dialed in and check the actual power curve.

   

  Anybody want to guess the actual output at the rear wheels?

   

  454, .030 over

  9.5:1 JE pistons

  1971 LS6 heads, no port work

  Comp cams 292XR cam, .660 lift intake .666 lift exhaust, 254/260 dur at .050

  Victor Jr intake, 1000cfm Demon carb

  2” primary, 3.5” collector Hooker headers, open

   

  I’ll post actual numbers when I get home tomorrow.

   

  Devin



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Re: [Chevelle-list] 12 Bolt yoke

2007-03-08 Thread Mike Holleman
John, When I ordered the aluminum driveshaft in my Tempest from Dennys, I 
asked him about what type of mounts I should use. I was thinking maybe he 
would suggest one of the machined HP caps I had seen. He said  new u-bolts. 
I doubt there is much difference in strength between u-bolts and straps. 
Both do the job and within this post we have learned that "correct" may not 
even exist for this application.

Mike
- Original Message - 
From: "John W. Lonadier, Jr." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "'The Chevelle Mailing List'" 
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 9:41 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 12 Bolt yoke



With all this talk about u bolts versus strap/bolt configurations, which
is the stronger of the two?

John L.
ACES #5597
70 LS5 TRIBUTE
http://chevellfan.com/index89.html
http://www.larueclassics.com/gallery/gallery%20pages/lodanier-chv70.html


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dale
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 3:38 PM
To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List'
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 12 Bolt yoke


Isn't that the truth - just about the time you think you have something
figured out . . . 

Dale

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Keith Anderson
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 1:27 PM
To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 12 Bolt yoke

Dale,

Like I said in a previous reply, my theory was blown out of the water.
Given what I've seen and experienced, I made the incorrect assumption
that
the larger 1350 U-joints used the U-bolt style yoke.  Apparently that's
not
true in all cases.  And we also have people that have the U-bolt yoke on
a
10 bolt rear.  So it looks like the strap vs. U-bolt yokes do not
correlate
to the type of U-joint.  Which means there has to be two different sized

strap style yokes on 12-bolts.

I should know better.  When it comes to these cars, there seem to be
exceptions to every commonly accepted rule.

Keith


From: "Dale" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
To: "'The Chevelle Mailing List'" 
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 12 Bolt yoke
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2007 01:17:30 -0600



Keith,

I'm confused here (not hard to do).  If TH400 and M22 cars used the
larger 1350 u-joints and every one you've seen have a u-bolt, it
contradicts the others with TH400 transmissions and the strap/bolt
configuration.

It gets curiouser and curiouser.

Dale










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9:24 AM







Re: [Chevelle-list] 12 Bolt yoke

2007-03-05 Thread Mike Holleman
Dale, I wasn't trying to mislead Ryan with a "blanket statement". In my 
experience, I had never come across a 12 bolt that had straps. And I have come 
across more than one or two. But I haven't worked on one with a TH400. Learn 
something new everyday.
Mike
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale 
  To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 
  Sent: Monday, March 05, 2007 12:19 AM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 12 Bolt yoke


  Beware of blanket statements; u-bolts were not standard across the board.  
The 67 driveshaft, u-joint mounting method, and rear pinion yoke flange was 
different on the TH400 than anything else in 67.  The TH400 used the strap/bolt 
arrangement where everything else used the u-bolt/nut arrangement.  I've seen 
the strap/bolt in a 69 AIM as well.

   

  Dale 

   


--

  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mike Holleman
  Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 5:24 PM
  To: The Chevelle Mailing List
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 12 Bolt yoke

   

  Ryan, U bolts were stock.

  Mike

- Original Message - 

From: langus 

To: Chevelle Chat Forum 

Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 2:39 PM

Subject: [Chevelle-list] 12 Bolt yoke

 

Are most of you guys running a u bolt or strap style pinion yoke?  I guess 
I am not sure what 12 bolt Chevelles came with?  Mine didnt have one on it when 
I bought the housing and I guess I dont know.  I see a few on ebay that use the 
straps for the u joints.  Are all of them that way?  Chaulk this one up the 
rookie syndrome.  Again.

 

 

Thank you

Ryan




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Re: [Chevelle-list] 12 Bolt yoke

2007-03-04 Thread Mike Holleman
Ryan, U bolts were stock.
Mike
  - Original Message - 
  From: langus 
  To: Chevelle Chat Forum 
  Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 2:39 PM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] 12 Bolt yoke


  Are most of you guys running a u bolt or strap style pinion yoke?  I guess I 
am not sure what 12 bolt Chevelles came with?  Mine didnt have one on it when I 
bought the housing and I guess I dont know.  I see a few on ebay that use the 
straps for the u joints.  Are all of them that way?  Chaulk this one up the 
rookie syndrome.  Again.


  Thank you
  Ryan


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Re: [Chevelle-list] This is how Delta Airlines treats American heroes

2007-03-04 Thread Mike Holleman
There is absolutely no excuse for that. Ex military or not, humans should 
not be treated as just so much cargo. Someone needs to burn for that kind of 
treatment of a fellow man.

Mike
- Original Message - 
From: "Karl Groves" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "'The Chevelle Mailing List'" 
Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 11:40 AM
Subject: [Chevelle-list] This is how Delta Airlines treats American heroes





http://www.wkyt.com/home/headlines/6294322.html

Ronald J. Groves served 2 tours of duty in Vietnam in 101st Airborne. He
retired after 20 years, during which time he also trained our men in the
82nd and 101st Airborne divisions who went on to fight in Grenada, Panama,
Somalia and elsewhere.

Delta Airlines left his body - in a cardboard box - out on the tarmac at
Atlanta airport during last week's inclement weather. There are even marks
in the box where it looks like a forklift jabbed through the box.

Karl Groves





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Re: [Chevelle-list] New addition...

2007-03-04 Thread Mike Holleman
What happened to the 65 is he gave me too long to think about and I kept it. 
He done good on Larry's car though. Knowing Herb like I do it will be off 
the charts in a few years. But the Chevelle purists probably won't like it.

Mike Holleman
- Original Message - 
From: "Paul Kaiser" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" 
Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 1:25 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] New addition...



Hey Herb A great pair of 66"s
What happened to the 65 ?

Your Az friend Paul
67 Elky
- Original Message - 
From: "Herb Lumpp" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "'The Chevelle Mailing List'" 
Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 10:01 AM
Subject: [Chevelle-list] New addition...



Hi all,

Just fyi... I'm the new owner of Larry Shouse's 66 Chevelle.  I'm looking
forward to getting this project underway and personalized to my tastes! 
:)

It should be a fun ride!

Herb
66 El Camino
66 Chevelle






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Re: [Chevelle-list] Please remove me frommailinglist!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

2007-02-23 Thread Mike Holleman
Chevelles? I thought this was a Chevette list. How do I get off?  Or as the 
great American Rodney King once said" Can't we all just get along?" 

Mike
- Original Message - 
From: "John W. Lonadier, Jr." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "'The Chevelle Mailing List'" 
Sent: Friday, February 23, 2007 9:32 AM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Please remove me 
frommailinglist




I like that reply Bill. I get such a big laugh every time this happens.
I saw this thread this morning after working all night and I just about
laughed so hard that I could have awakened every one in the house. This
is all done in good clean fun, just like the fun we have when we get
together at our local cruise nights. This list is like a BS session at
our local cruise nights, along with all the good information we get from
the members of this list when we have a problem. So lighten up a bit and
enjoy the list for what it is, a bunch of people that get together who
have the common interest of Chevelles.

John L.
ACES #5597
70 LS5 TRIBUTE
http://chevellfan.com/index89.html
http://www.larueclassics.com/gallery/gallery%20pages/lodanier-chv70.html


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bill
Lessenberry
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 10:05 PM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Please remove me from
mailinglist


You, sir, fail to understand.  This has been going on (both, the
misguided souls who want off of the list, and the smart a$$es who
give the instructions) for at least 4 or 5 years now.  It's a part of
our heritage, we will never give it up, and we will welcome any new
smart a$$ comments that would be good enough to copy & paste into the
replies.  BTW, your caps lock is stuck on, all of your words are
capitalized; makes it hard to read.
BillL


At 07:13 PM 2/22/2007, you wrote:

***
**
C"mon Guy"s Just Because one Guy Can't Seem To Find his Way Off The
List. It Doesn't Help Everybody Replies And Screw"s It Up For
Everbody Else. Who Wants There Mailbox Full Of This Crap. Grow Up
And Ignore The E-Mail If Everybody Replys To It It Just Ruin"s The
List. Chev702







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4:39 AM








Re: [Chevelle-list] 64 Chevelle tire & wheel question

2007-02-18 Thread Mike Holleman
Dan, I'm not sure on BS, someone will have that info. But you need to go with 
15's if you are going to disc brakes upfront.  Also you can go as wide as eight 
inch with no problem.  My best guess on BS for a 15 x 7 would be 4".
Mike
  - Original Message - 
  From: Daniel De Smet 
  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
  Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2007 11:06 PM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] 64 Chevelle tire & wheel question






  I am hoping to get the body done and painted this summer.  I am going to put 
some wheels on it when it gets done.  I am debating on keeping 14" or upgrading 
to 15" wheels.  I do not care for the big wheel craze so 15's are as big as I 
would consider.  What backspacing is proper for the 64 in stock configuration?  
I would probably stay with 6" wide wheels.  How wide of a tire can I put in the 
rear wheel wells?  I am also planning on installing front disc, will the 
factory front disc brakes fit under aftermarket 14" wheels?  I am thinking 
about either Weld draglite's, dragstars or American torq thrusts unless someone 
has any other ideas of what would look good on a 64.

  Thanks for the help

  Dan
  1964 Chevelle





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Re: [Chevelle-list] Suspension question ?

2007-02-17 Thread Mike Holleman
Tony, New stock replacement coil springs will give your a car new feel. And a 
much better ride. I would also recommend using stock rubber replacement 
bushings. New rubber, springs, sway bars and shocks will give your Chevelle a 
renewed ride. Most of these parts can be bought at your local parts store. The 
coils may be the exception. The last time I bought OE type coils was from 
Classic Muscle for around $60.00 a pair.
Mike
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
  Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2007 3:40 PM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] Suspension question ?


  Long time reader, first time poster. I currently have my wife's 71 malibu 
in the body/paint shop.  I was talking with the supervisor there yesterday 
about our suspension. The front end needs reworked and I also opted for new 
springs and sway bars all around. Where is the best place to buy these items 
without breaking the bank ? 
  The car is gonna be a weekend cruiser, and of course we'll be at 
Chevellabration and a few other car shows. What I'm getting at is I don't need 
a high dollar suspension overhaul for the car, but I want good drivability and 
handling for it since it is the wife's. 
  A few more details, we are going back basically stock wioth everything, 
we rebuilt the matching #'s 307 motor and 350 trans and everything else is 
stock. You guys just give me your ideas what I need to have a great driving car 
without a whole lot of expense. I do want to get at least 1 inch sway bars. 
Thanks for any info and the info I've gotten from this list so far has saved me 
a considerable amount of time and labor on our car. Thanks again guys. Tony 
(TLee38)


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2:25 PM


Re: [Chevelle-list] Installing bucket seats?

2007-02-12 Thread Mike Holleman
Pelle, If you converted from a bench to buckets you will need a mounting plate 
to provide the correct support and height. All the Chevelle parts houses carry 
these plates for about $17.00. 
Mike
  - Original Message - 
  From: Pelle Andersson 
  To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 
  Sent: Monday, February 12, 2007 11:05 AM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Installing bucket seats?


  I'm using stock bucket seats & all the 3 bolts & the 4:th (hole!) are 
perfectly aligned so I'm thinking of using a piece of threaded

  rod in the 4:th hole & bolts to adjust the height!?

  I've done some further investigation & the aftermarket (factyory specs) floor 
brackets have a part

  Included that I'm missing & that seems to be some kind of level adjustment 
gismo?

   

  Pelle

   


--

  Från: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] För Rick Schaefer
  Skickat: den 12 februari 2007 16:13
  Till: The Chevelle Mailing List
  Ämne: Re: [Chevelle-list] Installing bucket seats?

   

 Pelle   If you are not using stock seats, you may need a spacer under  
one or more of the mount bolts to prevent the wobble.   I had to drill new 
holes for one of the bolts on each of my seats.   Also if you do drill a new 
hole, use some kind of floor reinforcement.  A  large heavy duty washer or 
piece of steel.   You don't want the seat pulling loose in an emergency. 

  On 2/12/07, Pelle Andersson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Hi!

 

When I installed the bucket seats that have a much more rigid frame I 
noticed

that the floor/brackets doesn't align horizontally with the four "legs" on 
the seats

making them wiggle on three legs. If I just bolt 'em down anyway the slides 
get

warped, making it hard to adjust the seat forward/backward.

 

Is it supposed to be some sort of adjusting mechanism to fix this?

 

B.R.
-- 
Pelle 




  -- 
  Rick Schaefer
  72 TPI El Camino



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6:50 PM


Re: [Chevelle-list] Re Quarter Panel installation Cost

2007-02-05 Thread Mike Holleman
You are right on target Donnie. You never can tell what will be exposed when 
you strip and disassemble. Now what do you think the cost would have been had 
you rolled it into your buddies shop and said fix it. That's what I am faced 
with. My customer hauled this 66 from Kansas to NC thinking it was solid. Once 
I had it apart it was enough to make a grown man cry. You either fix it or 
start hunting a better body. More often than not we have to fix em because the 
better ones are getting scarce. The added cost to this mans project was around 
$6,000. parts and labor. 
Mike
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net 
  Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 10:32 AM
  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re Quarter Panel installation Cost


  Amen Mike.  

  Just cause you can get it done cheaper doesn't mean better.  

  For the '69 SS I am currently doing a frame off restoration on ... I had both 
quarters replaced (FULL), full floor pan, trunk pan, both front fenders (NOS), 
trunk lid, front valance panel, outer fender wells, trunk drop offs, and all of 
the other rust spots cut out, new metal welded in, Hood fixed and the rest of 
the body smoothed.  The car is now 100% rust free.  Cost including parts was 
about $6500.  This was with me and my friend Tom taking the car apart, sanding 
down the areas that were not going to be replaced down to metal and completely 
stripping/gutting the insides of the car, helping out with the body work 
(grinding, sanding, cutting, etc...) every weekend for 6 weeks.  

  I had figured about $4500 going into it...Once we started removing sheet 
metal, we found other areas that needed fixing... that were NOT visible from 
the start.  Luckily my body man is one of the best in the business and he was 
able to make most of what we needed on the spot.  While the quarters were off, 
we POR-15'd all exposed metal.  Needed.. maybe not... but good insurance!!  He 
also "suggested" we fix other things while we were doing it... kind of pay me 
now ... or hate yourself later for not doing it.  He is a good friend, so 
ripping me off was not even in the equation.  So after $2000 more than I had 
budgeted (and another 2 weeks of labor), it was ready to take home.

  The car still needs to be final block sanded a few times to get it 100% ready 
for paint... which will probably cost about another $1000 or so.  Then add 
about another $3500 for paint.  

  Cheap NO but this is what it takes and costs to do it right.

  Good Luck!!

  Donnie


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9:58 PM


Re: [Chevelle-list] Re Quarter Panel installation Cost

2007-02-05 Thread Mike Holleman
Roger, Don't get discouraged. Be smart about how you go about your resto. 
Don't do a full quarter panel if you can avoid it. A full quarter gets into 
the roof line, the door jamb, the trunk and the rear panel. If a quarter 
skin will work you will find the labor costs will be a fraction of the full 
quarter install. A great deal of time is involved in removal of the old 
metal in floor pan and trunk pan installs.  Do as much of this yourself as 
possible. Use caution not to remove too much. It is best to have the new 
pans in front of you for reference before any cutting is done. The 66 I 
referenced before is a worst case scenerio. It was almost too far gone to 
rebuild.

Mike
- Original Message - 
From: "Roger Griggs" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" 
Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2007 10:25 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re Quarter Panel installation Cost



That's kind of depressing news. I've had this 70 SS
about 10 years and was ready to proceed, but with
those costs, it may be out of my price range. It still
needs a front clip and other things too.

Thanks for the Info.





--- Mike Holleman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


That was the point of my post. It is expensive to
get good metal work done.
That two hundred hours covered all the metal from
the back of the roof to
the bumper. I had to remake the piece above the
rearend and the piece that
goes under the rear panel. Usually if a car needs
quarters and trunk pans
there will be several more pieces involved. Plus
this is a two man job. If
Goodmark can do a quarter install for 750.00 that's
where I would go. From
my experience a trunk floor install will take every
bit of 50 hours if done
right.
Mike
- Original Message - 
From: "Clint Hooper" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "The Chevelle Mailing List"

Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2007 2:26 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re Quarter Panel
installation Cost


> 200 hours? Good Lord! At a nominal shop rate of
$50/hr,that would equate
> out
> to $10,000.
> Clint Hooper
> H&H Custom,owner
> 1969 El Camino protourer
>


http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm

> http://www.lateral-g.net/members/hooper/
> "You may find me dead one day in a ditch. But by
God,you'll find me in a
> pile of brass."
>
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Mike Holleman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

>
>
>> Roger, That is a major job. I would guess you are
being quoted more than
> 150
>> man hours to do this. It takes that and more to
do it right. This also
> will
>> most likely require new inner fenders as well. I
just finished this job
>> on
> a
>> 66 Chevelle. It was closer to two hundred hours.
Plus I had to make some
>> parts that were not available.
>> Mike Holleman
>> - Original Message - 
>> From: "Roger Griggs" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

>> >
>> > I need to have two quarter panels and trunk
floor
>> > installed. Has anyone paid to have that done
lately?
>> > The body shops here in town seem to want an
exorbitant
>> > amount of money to put them in for me. They're
full
>> > quarter panels, not skins.
>> >
>> > Thanks
>
>
>
>
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> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.17.24/668 -
Release Date: 2/4/2007
> 1:30 AM
>
>









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Re: [Chevelle-list] Re Quarter Panel installation Cost

2007-02-04 Thread Mike Holleman
That was the point of my post. It is expensive to get good metal work done. 
That two hundred hours covered all the metal from the back of the roof to 
the bumper. I had to remake the piece above the rearend and the piece that 
goes under the rear panel. Usually if a car needs quarters and trunk pans 
there will be several more pieces involved. Plus this is a two man job. If 
Goodmark can do a quarter install for 750.00 that's where I would go. From 
my experience a trunk floor install will take every bit of 50 hours if done 
right.

Mike
- Original Message - 
From: "Clint Hooper" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" 
Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2007 2:26 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Re Quarter Panel installation Cost


200 hours? Good Lord! At a nominal shop rate of $50/hr,that would equate 
out

to $10,000.
Clint Hooper
H&H Custom,owner
1969 El Camino protourer
http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm
http://www.lateral-g.net/members/hooper/
"You may find me dead one day in a ditch. But by God,you'll find me in a
pile of brass."

- Original Message - 
From: "Mike Holleman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>




Roger, That is a major job. I would guess you are being quoted more than

150

man hours to do this. It takes that and more to do it right. This also

will
most likely require new inner fenders as well. I just finished this job 
on

a

66 Chevelle. It was closer to two hundred hours. Plus I had to make some
parts that were not available.
Mike Holleman
- Original Message - 
From: "Roger Griggs" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

>
> I need to have two quarter panels and trunk floor
> installed. Has anyone paid to have that done lately?
> The body shops here in town seem to want an exorbitant
> amount of money to put them in for me. They're full
> quarter panels, not skins.
>
> Thanks





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Re: [Chevelle-list] Re Quarter Panel installation Cost

2007-02-04 Thread Mike Holleman
Roger, That is a major job. I would guess you are being quoted more than 150 
man hours to do this. It takes that and more to do it right. This also will 
most likely require new inner fenders as well. I just finished this job on a 
66 Chevelle. It was closer to two hundred hours. Plus I had to make some 
parts that were not available.

Mike Holleman
- Original Message - 
From: "Roger Griggs" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" 
Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2007 12:01 PM
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Re Quarter Panel installation Cost




I need to have two quarter panels and trunk floor
installed. Has anyone paid to have that done lately?
The body shops here in town seem to want an exorbitant
amount of money to put them in for me. They're full
quarter panels, not skins.

Thanks




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Re: [Chevelle-list] Gibbs Brand

2007-01-29 Thread Mike Holleman
Sounds like some real good stuff. It reminds me of a product made by LPS some 
years back. I used it on my race bikes, mostly to protect the aluminum from 
corrosion. CRC also had Soft Seal with similar claims. Certainly worth a try.
Mike
  - Original Message - 
  From: Herb Lumpp 
  To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 
  Sent: Monday, January 29, 2007 6:45 AM
  Subject: [Chevelle-list] Gibbs Brand


  Has anybody ever heard of this stuff or used it?  What do you think about it?

  http://www.roadsters.com/gibbs/

  Herb


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5:02 PM


Re: [Chevelle-list] tail light housing

2007-01-25 Thread Mike Holleman

Which side do you need? I'll check my parts supply for you.
Mike
- Original Message - 
From: "Bob Holtzman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2007 9:15 PM
Subject: [Chevelle-list] tail light housing



Anyone have or know where I can get a tail light housing for a '65
Chevelle? Tried the parts houses (Yr. 1, OPG, etc.) with no luck. Likewise
the local junk yards.

Thanks in advance.

--
Bob Holtzman
"If you think you're getting free lunch,
..check the price of the beer!"


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