Re: Stus-List C$C 32
The square footage is a function of how the sail is built. My spinnaker has high 'shoulders' and is 24 feet across at the foot and about 35 feet tall. But I could get another with the same external measurements but cut in a more triangle configuration (no high and wide shoulders) and have a lot less cloth. That is probably why you don't see spinnaker square footage on sailboat specs. Gary - Original Message - From: Michael Clow via CnC-List To: sam.c.sal...@gmail.com ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2014 5:44 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List C$C 32 My symmetrical chute was made specifically for racing by Al Declercq in Metro Detroit so it would be the maximum legal size. My sail certificate is online below with the dimensions. Perhaps someone else knows the formula to calculate square footage? http://desiresailing.org/Misc/SailCertificateSymChute1998CnC32.pdf There is no CC 32-II. The CC 32 (made 1979 to 1984) is actually 31.5 LOA. The CC99 is 32.5 feet and came out around 2000. The only similarity is that they are within .5 feet of 32 feet. Michael Clow Desire, CC 32, Lake St. Clair From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, April 30, 2014 11:46 PM To: teq...@comcast.net; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List C$C 32 FX Sails thinks the 32 is 754 sq ft / 32 mk ll is 821 sq ft. (That’s for symmetrical) sam :-) From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Wednesday, April 30, 2014 7:09 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Can Any one tell me the sail area of a Spinnaker for a CC 32, or the fomula to get the area? Thanks Bob -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Technical sail discussion
I don't know about your PHRF area, but Chesapeake requires that the furler drum is above deck AND you have the UV patch (heavy cloth) on both the foot and leach of the sail. Then you get the six seconds. Gary - Original Message - From: Martin DeYoung via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: Dennis C. capt...@gmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2014 1:32 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Technical sail discussion Calypso's headsails were also cut for a furler with the higher foot, now about 18 off the deck. We still get a significant speed bubble in the main at the mid to upper wind range for the light and heavy #1s. The bubble shows up 6' to 25' (off the deck) on the mainsail. From my miss-spent youth crewing with serious race programs I expect there to be an advantage to the deck sweeper type headsails, more so for the early IOR type sail plans with big fore triangles and smaller mainsails. The engineers may reference something about an end plate effect. Over the last 10 years of club racing Calypso with roller furling headsails we see a significant decrease in performance at the low end of the wind range, especially in acceleration. Side by side with another CC 43 that had newer, non-furling headsails Calypso was left in the dust as the wind built from calm to 5 knots. Once the TWS was above 7 knots the speed difference was much less but the newer sails still pointed higher. After reading about your +6 per mile for the roller furler I need to take a close look at the PHRF-NW book and re-file Calypso's data. We are still using the old IMS/IOR type measurements. Martin Calypso 1971 CC 43 Seattle -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2014 5:51 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Technical sail discussion I recently re-filed my PHRF certificate to get +6 seconds for a roller furler. Subsequently, I just had the luff my Mylar/Kevlar 155 cut down to fit on the furler. My sail maker cut a bunch off the foot. I was chatting about losing the sail area with one of the really good sailors in the club. He said it may actually be a good thing that the foot is higher off the deck. He said with the older narrow IOR designs, deck sweeper genoas may cause the slot to be less efficient. Might increase the bubble in the main. In my simplistic mind I kinda see where he's coming from. The slot gets restricted at the deck by the cabin. The lower part of the air flow would get pushed upward into the bottom of the main. A higher foot allows some flow to escape and keep the air flow lines smooth in the lower slot. Does this make sense? Dennis C. Touché 35-1 #83 MandevilleLA Sent from my iPhone ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Standing water on deck
One of the listers posted this tip: place a piece of line (3/8 or so) right along the toe rail, in the part where the water stands - maybe about two feet long and then have another foot or so threaded through the slot/hole in the toe rail and hanging over the side. It will wick the water out and flush it overboard. Trust me, it works! Some people use sponges stuffed through the slots and hanging over. Gary 30-1 with hanging water drippers - Original Message - From: via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2014 2:52 PM Subject: Stus-List Standing water on deck Hi all, I just recently bought a CC 33 Mk II and have noticed that I have standing water around the aft part of the toerail for several days after a rainfall. I was thinking of putting a notch in the toerail to help it drain (at least most of it) or perhaps a little 90 degree scupper from the deck to the hull. Or am i better off just to leave well enough alone? Thanks, Mike Atacama, Toronto Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network. Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List java updates
Come on, kids IBM punch cards, followed by a 1401 card system, 1440, then 1130. Gary (retired IBM) - Original Message - From: via CnC-List To: Leslie Paal ; Stews List Sent: Friday, May 16, 2014 5:33 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List java updates IBM 1130 Steve Thomas CC27 MKIII Date: Thu, 15 May 2014 21:14:16 -0700 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; w...@wbryant.com Subject: Re: Stus-List java updates From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com I beat you by quite a bit, I started with the PDP-8. ;-) Leslie. now on Maverick because the upgrade is free... On Thu, 5/15/14, Wally Bryant via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Subject: Re: Stus-List java updates To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Date: Thursday, May 15, 2014, 4:33 PM I drink too much coffee anyway. I think Java is sponsored by Oracle (who bought SunSoft) so don't think it's tied to the Microsoft upgrade program. But I don't know anything anymore, having left all that behind in search of the perfect taco. I do think switching to Linux would be difficult for many people. Heck, it would be difficult for me, and my first computer was a PDP-11 that required me to enter the boot sequence in Hexadecimal by pushing the right buttons in the right order. uh-oh. I have chicken on the barby. Gotta go. Oh me-oh my-oh, wont'cha look at Miss Ohio... Wal ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List java updates
I'll call that. Marina Del Rey to Ensenada on a Kettenburg 41 with the same 'electronics'. Gary - Original Message - From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Friday, May 16, 2014 1:34 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List java updates I'll raise you DR from Cape May to Newport on a wooden ketch with a kerosene stove and an AM marine radio. Joe Della Barba Coquina From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Martin DeYoung via CnC-List Sent: Friday, May 16, 2014 1:27 PM To: Gary Nylander; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List java updates Come on, kids IBM punch cards, followed by a 1401 card system, 1440, then 1130. How about: DR, Sextant, RDF, LORAN, Sat Nav, GPS . Martin Calypso 1971 CC 43 Seattle From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary Nylander via CnC-List Sent: Friday, May 16, 2014 10:18 AM To: sthom...@sympatico.ca; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List java updates Come on, kids IBM punch cards, followed by a 1401 card system, 1440, then 1130. Gary (retired IBM) -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List First sail
After braking off a couple of keys on my Yanmar panel and paying about $50 for a new switch (key broke the plastic too), I put in a push/pull switch - I found out all Yanmar keys are the same - big deterrent! Besides, they have to get into the cabin to turn on the AB switch. Gary Old Yanmar - Original Message - From: Ken Heaton via CnC-List To: Jim Watts ; cnc-list Sent: Monday, May 26, 2014 10:20 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List First sail We used to have a GMC 1/2 ton like that. Key? Who needs a stinkin' key? On 26 May 2014 02:07, Jim Watts via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Either leave the engine seacock open, or hang the ignition key off the seacock handle. Me, I'm useless and we have a Yanmar, so I can start the engine with pretty much anything I have in my pocket including lint. I leave the seacock open. I know this makes me a bad person and I can live with that. Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 25 May 2014 20:13, M Bod via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: OK. Boat got off the dock today. After a bunch of engine work, new hoses and new fuel tank (all installed by mechanic) everything is supposed to be working smoothly. Well. Getting off the dock was not so smooth. Couldn't sort out why roller furler was jamming for a bit. Finally sorted the issue, started the engine, made sure all looked good (exhaust a little louder than I expected, but not bad). Off we went (had a friend along to assist moving the boat from the marina to a nearby cove where it can stay an extra week). 10 min out I see some smoke riding through the companion way. Throttle down. Full off engine cowling. Coolant everywhere! Must have a leak. We turn around to limp back to the dock. I'm looking at the mess with the coolant boiling over when I realize (OK remember mechanic warned me) the seacock for the engine is CLOSED!!! Opened the seacock. Everything cooled off. We had burned off much of our coolant - so I poured in a 1/2 litre water bottle. Kept the engine at low rpm and made the run to the cove. Little hitch at the end. Went to furl the jib but too much sail and not enough line on the furling drum. Only managed to pack away 2/3 of the sail. Solved that by doing 10 clockwise circles in the bay to wrap the sail around the forestay! Dirty, but it worked. All told we survived. Feel like a royal idiot for forgetting the seacock. Had pretty good water shooting out of the muffler after - but I figure I better pull the impellor and check/replace it anyway. I had checked the exhaust when we started - saw splashes. But later realized I was looking at the air exhaust hitting the water and causing a little splash. Still a little shell shocked from the experience but thinking I'll likely remember the seacock in the future! Mark ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List 2GM20F Yanmar Shift cable?
The cable is pretty easy to measure. The one end is hooked to the shift lever and the other to the transmission. You can follow the old one and get your length. It is (as was said) a Morse cable and is available at many boat stores. It is threaded at each end - you take the ends off the old and put on the new. The biggest problem is getting the pedestal apart to get to the lever end - I had to use heat and solvent (PB Blaster or WD40) and an impact screwdriver to get the flat plate off the top of the casting which holds the lever. Don't scrimp on the length, if you are uncertain, buy the next longer cable, it can always run a bit loose in the lazerette area. I don't remember the lengthy, and was replacing the throttle cable which may be a different length. Gary #593 - Original Message - From: Curtis via CnC-List To: Nate Flesness ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2014 1:14 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List 2GM20F Yanmar Shift cable? That was going to be the plan if I did not get a confident answer. I just didn't want to down the boat too long. Thanks. On Tue, May 27, 2014 at 12:57 PM, Nate Flesness via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: In case it helps, just replacing mine too. Same pedestal control setup, slightly different diesel (2QM15 with Hurth/Kanzaki transmission). Morse teleflex, 10 foot length. Nate Sarah Jean 1980 30-1 Siskiwit Bay Marina Lake Superior On Tue, May 27, 2014 at 11:09 AM, Rich Knowles via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Curtis, dig the old cable out and go to your marine supplier with the old one to make sure you have the right ends and length. Rich On May 27, 2014, at 12:44, Curtis via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I have a CC30 MK1 with a throttle on the right and a shift on my left on the Edison pedestal. straight up and down motion on them both. Any Idea what cable I would use to replace the shift cable? thanks Curtis -- All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty recesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity, but the dreamers of the day are dangerous men,for they may act their dreams with open eyes, to make it possible. T. E. Lawrence . ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty recesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity, but the dreamers of the day are dangerous men,for they may act their dreams with open eyes, to make it possible. T. E. Lawrence . -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List RPMs on Your Diesel Engine
My throttle cable has a little U shaped metal device with a 13mm (1/2) bolt but it is located mid-way on the cable - very easy to get at. A little twist stopped my throttle slippage. Gary - Original Message - From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2014 8:26 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List RPMs on Your Diesel Engine Josh, you said: “The throttle lever slips a little so after extended operation the rpms creep down and I'll have to re-throttle up. “ You know that there is a little (actually not so little, it is 1/2” or 13 mm hex head in my case) bolt that you can adjust to stop the throttle lever from slipping. You have to remove the compass in order to reach it. Of course, I assume that your controls are on the pedestal. Marek -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Bilge pump installation - was Re: Bilge Pump Cleaning
I have a similar setup. As the big hose from the Whale Gusher runs from the bilge to a point just under the toe rail on the Port side of the boat near the wheel, I ran the little 3/4 smooth hose from the little one right next to it and exited at the same altitude. Didn't have to create a new path. I then found out the long hose allowed too much water back to the bilge (with an automatic pump, it kept cycling), so I put in a check valve where it is easy to clean (under the floorboard hatch about a foot behind the mast). The Whale is mounted through the cockpit floor and its pickup line is in the bilge, output is short. Gary not GPM, GPH! - Original Message - From: David via CnC-List To: CNC CNC Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2014 8:43 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge pump installation - was Re: Bilge Pump Cleaning I did much research about bilge pumps and the following are some of my conclusions and my build set-up; a.. Short hose runs much better than long runs b.. Pumps should not share discharge with anything else c.. Smooth walled hoses better than ribbed d.. Primary pump (smaller) discharge was moved from starboard side to port side (it dawned on me one day that launch passengers may not want a snoot-full of my bilge water) e.. Primary is on a bilge counter to determine pump cycles and a problem f.. My waterproof connections configuration is a bus bar as high in the bilge as possible sprayed with electronic waterproofing. Easier to inspect and has been working for years. g.. Secondary pump is large capacity set up with a bilge alarm and a switch 6 above primary. h.. Both discharges just below toerail mid-ships to minimize run and to eliminate back-siphoning i.. Primary is setup with a check valve to keep bilge as dry as possible, secondary is not. David F. Risch (401) 419-4650 (cell) To: drbod...@accesswave.ca; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Date: Wed, 28 May 2014 08:21:59 -0400 Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge pump installation - was Re: Bilge Pump Cleaning From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Mark, if you Y-connect it to the existing bilge pump discharge, don't you worry about water going back into the bilge via the other hose? Now a stupid(?) question to the list: can you connect a bilge pump in series (i.e. to the same discharge hose, one pump at the bilge to keep it dry, the other (larger capacity) above the water line (next to the discha rge)). The question has some merits (for me). I have a 1000 GPM (??) pump located in the lazarette pulling the water through a very long hose from the bilge. I am thinking about installing a smaller pump in the bilge (like the one suggested for Mark). My problem is that if I could avoid, I'd rather not run 15' of a hose through the bellows of the boat (I am not looking forward to snaking that hose behind and under all kinds of maze in the aft of the boat). If I could just connect the new pump to the existing hose, I would be set. I wonder what can go wrong with this kind of installation. thanks Marek (in Ottawa) -Original Message- From: Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2014 5:35 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge pump installation - was Re: Bilge Pump Cleaning Thanks for all the advice. This is a great resource (thanks Stu). I've read some of this info scanning different online sites - but this list gives quick feedback on how and why. That Whale sub pump is exactly the one I was looking at. Plus a switch. I will take the wiring advice - heat shrink and silicone etc. Any thoughts on the discharge? I've read some people discharge through the galley sink drain - which would keep the hose run short and easy --- but then I'd have to leave that seacock open.. The other option is to Y the discharge to the current manual pump discharge (or one of the above waterline cockpit drain hoses) - but that would need 18'+ of hose. Mark - There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval. - George Santayana On 27/05/2014 10:51 AM, Wally Bryant via CnC-List wrote: Dennis had a good call with heat shrink and painting with liquid electrical tape. I took made my heat shrink about two inches longer than the connection, and injected marine silicone inside with a syringe. When the shrunk, silicone gushed out the ends. It has been wet often. Maybe I'm just lucky, but my 12 year old Rule pumps and float switches are still doing fine. I have a little 500 as the primary pump, and a big one that stays up on a platform about six inches off the bilge, just in case. The 500 does get clogged up with bilge gunk, and I just replaced it because they can't be taken apart and cleaned out. One thing I do is take a
Re: Stus-List Inboard drive question
With a folding prop on a 30, you will get vibration. I'm assuming you have a two cylinder diesel? The prop is offset both vertically and horizontally - so it is not operating evenly. But, I don't have any wobble in the shaft - that doesn't sound right at all. Gary also 30-1 - Original Message - From: Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Monday, June 02, 2014 1:37 PM Subject: Stus-List Inboard drive question Spent all day Sunday working on the boat - cleaning up the coolant mess, installing cabin cushions, putting everything away. Went for a short buzz out of the cove (now have boat at a dock in Deep Cove, Mahone Bay, to see how the sailing is). My tach is not working (another job) - so I don't have specific details - but there seems to be a lot of vibration when I start increasing the throttle. Moving along slowly (~3kts) there is some vibration, but not bad. But above 1/2 (I'm totally guessing because I've not had the guts to drive it up to full throttle yet) more vibration. at 5.5kts it feels like a lot to me. I did climb down earlier and look at the shaft spinning - I can see it oscillating maybe 1/2 inch. Is that normal? A problem with the prop (Martec folding prop - original as far as I know -- didn't see excessively loose when I had the boat on the hard)? Or maybe a problem with the prop shaft? I'd rather not kill the season pulling the prop shaft out now. Any thoughts? Mark CS 30 Prosecco -- There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval. - George Santayana ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 30 MK1 Use standard push/pull cables?
There's a little L bracket in the stainless tube which holds the cable (I only know of the throttle, as the shift seems to be OK, but I replaced the throttle). I seem to remember it is held by the screw near the top wooden support, but yours could be different. I'll look today. There is nothing at the lever end which should cause resistance. The levers are just pivoted on a shaft. You have to pull the top of the binnacle up to get the cable out, the plate is held by the three screw headed bolts. Once they are removed, you can get to the shaft which holds the lever, remove the little cotter pin (careful, it can get lost) and remove the lever. The cable end is a fork-like piece and is held by a little shaft with another cotter pin. It was pretty straight forward once I got the three screws (actually five, there are two on the side screwed into the stainless tube) out. You may have the same problem I did - the cable rusted from the inside and started to disintegrate - it eventually came apart and I had to hold it together with duct tape and some plastic spiral cable wrap until I could get a replacement. The inside cable was OK, but the outer sheathing came apart and when it could no longer hold the cable, there was nothing to push against fun! Gary - Original Message - From: Curtis via CnC-List To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com Sent: Friday, June 06, 2014 8:05 AM Subject: Stus-List CC 30 MK1 Use standard push/pull cables? I have just installed a new tome engine in my 30MK1 The shift cable is good condition. Disconnected from the shift lever, I get smooth action all the way threw the stroke. The shift lever on the tranny smooth as well, But when I hook them up it takes a lot of pressure to move? The old engine I just took out was a bit hard to shift as well? Me binnacle has a main post with the chain going to the steering under the cockpit. My fuel cable or my shift cable don't go through the main pedestal. My cables go through the Stainless steel post that mount to the floor, behind the center post. My cables are thicker than the red cables at the local boat store? And seem to be of better quality. I found on my cable written (10-75) and that's all? Can I use the red style to replace the. What holds the Cable sheath inside the SS tube? How do you replace it? I can see no mounting of the sheath? I only see the threaded end at the bottom of the shifter knob? Any help on this would be great. Has anybody had this problem? I need help. I have spent 4 evenings working on it moving it around trying to re-adjust it. I'm at my end?? Help... Thanks, Curtis 1981 CC 30 MK1 (675) -- All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty recesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity, but the dreamers of the day are dangerous men,for they may act their dreams with open eyes, to make it possible. T. E. Lawrence . -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 30 mk1 rudder design
This is the first time I've heard that the earlier 30-1's had a different rudder design - I have a 1980 version and the keel and rudder are shark fins. The scimitar does give you some weather helm when reaching in heavy air, but by then your rail is in the water and you should be reducing sail anyway. I have a friend who had an early 27 and he got tired of the helm and had a deeper rudder built (more modern, straight down) because he liked to blast around with the spinnaker up when it was blowing.. As far as backing, I haven't had issues, but I find that because of the offset prop and the rudder, you have to have some way on when backing or the prop walk and prop angle messes you up anyway. I usually start where there is room and run the boat backwards for a while and drive it like a car - facing aft and steering that way. It doesn't respond well to really low speed backing. And they are fine boats, one of the stiffest that CC ever built - perform well. I'm still pleased after 20 years of ownership. Gary #593 Maryland - Original Message - From: Ron and Sharon via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2014 1:00 PM Subject: Stus-List CC 30 mk1 rudder design Good morning, This is my first entry on the cnc-list. I have 40 yrs. of sailing experiece; mostly on Petersons. I am presently without a boat and have been looking at older CC 30 mk1's (1973-75). There are several for sale in my area; asking price about $16,000. They seem to be well built and in good structural cond. Most have diesel engines. My only real concern is the rudder design (swept back, scimitar shaped). Does this design cause excessive tiller pressure when reaching in heavy air? How is it for steering when backing into a marina? I see that in 1976 they redesigned the rudder. I have not seen a decent 1976-78 mk1 for sale in my area yet. Do you think I should forget the 1973-75's and wait for a 1976 or later one? I am looking at boats in this era because they are affordable to me. Thanks for any replies. Ron Nanaimo, BC, Canada -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Stanchion bases
I am looking for a couple stanchion bases. They are the kind which have two bolt holes that go through the toe rail and a third which goes through the deck. I would prefer some used ones as they would match the ones on the boat (34 years old) but would take a new one. Does South Shore still carry them? And, how do I contact them. Thanks, Gary 30-1___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 30 mk1 rudder design
I don't even have to see it - if it is 'conventional', it is not original. As the originals were all shark fins, this had to be custom. As I mentioned, there were a number of people who modified early CC rudders to get them deeper, because when you are heeled over (reaching?) the rudder is pretty far out of the water, and loses effectiveness. Gary - Original Message - From: Ron and Sharon via CnC-List To: Michael Brown via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, June 12, 2014 3:31 PM Subject: Stus-List CC 30 mk1 rudder design Thankyou to all the members who replied to my questions. The cnc-list archives has an amazing amount of information. I liked Antoine's reply the best and will be following his advice soon. I am confused about the photo of the rudder on Curtis's 1980 mk1. I visited a brokers storage lot this week where I saw a 1976 30-1 with a fairly conventional rudder. Maybe it was custom made. If anyone wants to see the photos email me at scam...@shaw.ca I'm not interested in buying it as it is a pale yellow color and has the original Atomic 4. Thanks again Ron -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List What happened 15th 16th June
And. you still have the whole of the Eastern Shore south of where you are - the Corsica - the Chester - Eastern Bay and the Miles - the Choptank and Tred Avon - and you still haven't been below the middle of the Bay. Our county alone (Talbot) has roughly 6-700 miles of shoreline - little and big rivers (really tidal - very little current) and wonderful anchorages. Other than that, it is kinda boring. Gary St. Michaels on the Miles River - Original Message - From: Chuck S via CnC-List To: Joe Della Barba ; CNC boat owners, cnc-list Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2014 9:25 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List What happened 15th 16th June Hi Joe, So glad I made this move and my wife is liking the change too. I hear wonderful things about Corsica River, but first I must explore Magothy. So many hidden coves and creeks, so little time Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md -- From: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2014 7:55:46 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List What happened 15th 16th June Coquina spent about 10 years on the Magothy. Many many memories of broad creek. I am up the Corsica for 2 weeks now. Joe Coquina ex Magothy River ex Severn River now Kent Island Sent from my iPhone On Jun 17, 2014, at 19:48, Chuck S via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Was on the boat Friday till this afternoon. No WiFi at my marina. Spectacular weekend of sailing in a new to me sailing venue; Saturday I met new friends visiting from Georgia, sailing in 14 to 25 knots making 7.3 upwind and down. The next day, got my AC working, sailed flat water w 6 knots wind, overnighted with the admiral at anchor, sunset dinner. Counting stars and sipping wine until the moon rose from behind the treelined shore. The third day my daughter joined us and we sailed to a different little cove and went swimming. Many great memories, many wonderful first impressions of the Magothy River. Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md From: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2014 12:12:04 PM Subject: Stus-List What happened 15th 16th June No posts most of 15th and all of 16th June? Or did the list go down? ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List swan
We chartered a Swan a few years ago. The agent was giving me the tour lift the (beautiful teak and holly) floorboards with the special tooleach floorboard sits on an aluminum angle frame all welded together to make a grid... beautiful welds...all water lines and such are labeled and have valves etc. All are accessible... the plumbing and electrical routing is impeccable.. and so forth. They are works of mechanical art and for the price they should be... Gary (I still like my 30-1) - Original Message - From: Brent Driedger via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: CC List Canada cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Tuesday, July 01, 2014 12:31 AM Subject: Stus-List swan This is a little off topic but somehow we can make this CC related. Why do Nautor Swan sailboats cost so much money? I understand they're very well built boats however a 35-year-old Swan still costs over 20 times more than a CC of comparable size. Blisters and all! Brent Driedger 27-5 Lake Winnipeg ( will never afford a swan) Sent from my iPhone ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Talk some sense into me please!
On the other hand. being a 30-1 owner for 20+ years, it is a boat which he and his sweetie can sail without additional help in most conditions. A bigger boat means more effort, maybe more people, more expense. If he is looking for a party boat (bunches aboard for the weekend) then a 42 would be a better deal, but for getting away for a cozy weekend and, as mentioned many times, the outlay for everything for a 30 is considerably less. We haven't heard where he sails, what type of sailing he would like to do, etc. He didn't mention if he had had other boats in the past and is now deciding the cruising life is his goal or whatever he mentioned the Landfall, so I surmise he is interested in cruising, maybe in luxury, and in that case a 42 would be a better deal. Live aboard??? I'm still a little suspicious of a 42 for the price of an early 30... problems? But, his brand choice is a great one. Gary 30-1 Maryland - Original Message - From: dwight via CnC-List To: j...@dellabarba.com ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2014 2:08 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Talk some sense into me please! Sorry guys; but there are some positives about owning a bigger boat none of which have been mentioned.because of where I sail and what my sailing agenda is about nowadays and at my age I wish I still had my CC 30, which I consider the best boat ever built for my venue and my sailing wishes.however if the dude wants a Landfall 42 for whatever reason let him go for it.it's a CC and a good boat and it offers a lot for those who need a 42 footer to be happy and for a single guy this boat may make him very happy especially if he can get his close friends to help with sailing it and with upkeep.those ones would be keepers in my humble opinion -- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joe Della Barba via CnC-List Sent: July 5, 2014 11:36 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Talk some sense into me please! Compare the following prices: New main and job for the 30 and the 42. The 42 sails are going to be at least double if not triple. Replacement engine for the 30 and 42. The A4 that most 30s have can be replaced with a used one for $2K or so and a Moyer rebuild is about $6K. I would think the 42 isn't going for less than $15K. Joe Della Barba j...@dellabarba.com Coquina From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. via CnC-List Sent: Friday, July 04, 2014 8:50 PM To: Ryan Beckett; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Talk some sense into me please! Small boat, small systems. Manual pumps, small lines, small sails, less maintenance, smaller slip fees, etc. Big boat, big systems. Electric pumps, electric shower sump, big expensive lines and sails, increased dockage, propane gas systems and solenoids, etc. lots of expensive stuff to break and replace. Small boat, good feel for the water. Fun to sail. Easy to dock. Easy to see/feel changes in sail trim. Dinghies are a blast to sail! Big boat (even a CC), less feel for the water, harder to dock. May or may not see/feel changes in sail trim. Summary, smaller boat = all the fun of sailing with less hassle. Dennis C. Sent from my iPhone On Jul 4, 2014, at 12:59 PM, Ryan Beckett via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Hi All, I am a new owner of a 1973 CC 30 Mk1. I have fallen in a love with the brand of CC and am really enjoying sailing even though I have only owned the boat a couple months. I am a single 31 year old guy, but I have been thinking a 35-45 footer may have been a better move. There was a 1980 42' foot Landfall sent to me for about the same about of money that I have into my 30 footer! What is every one's thoughts and advice? I am trying to temper my impulsiveness and just learn on and enjoy my 30' to make sure its a sport/lifestyle/hobby for me but dangling the Landfall in front of me for such a great price is tempting!!! Warm Regards, Ryan S. Beckett Partner Co-Founder 561.301.6337 mobile ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2014.0.4716 / Virus Database: 3986/7788 - Release Date: 07/03/14 --
Re: Stus-List what is wrong with these boats?
I sometimes pick up donated boats for the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum. Another volunteer and I just sailed an early '80's O'Day 30 across the Bay for the program. He was interested, because it has a centerboard and his mooring is in rather slim water. His thoughts were: Old gear, old upholstery, only two self tailing winches, not four.. old instruments, etc. the boat was attractive and will go for low dollars. He was counting up the dollars to make it perfect and decided he wanted a boat with fewer issues to deal with. I think these boats sit around for a long time because there are few folks like many on this list who are knowledgeable enough to look through the small faults and make an offer. My friend is skilled, but still wanted the 'perfect' boat with few issues for low money. Maybe he didn't want to have another project? On the first one, the hailing port is interesting, as the boat is now in Maryland. The engine is small and has a lot of hours (almost 2000?), no self tailing winches, old (really) Moor instruments (if it breaks, buy new). The other one looks better, is a lot more money for an old boat - and seven feet is a non-starter around here. Gary still happy with the 30-1 - Original Message - From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2014 4:55 PM Subject: Stus-List what is wrong with these boats? http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1974/C%26C-MK-II-2367894/Cambridge/MD/United-States This looks like a nice MK II and has been for sale for a long time. My guess is the sticking point is the engine. It has a Westebeke 4-60 engine, which is a 15 HP diesel derived from a 984 cc MG Midget engine. I had an MG Midget and all I have to say to that is Yikes! It may run fine, but AFAIK parts are nonexistent for it, so when it breaks it is dead forever. Also 15 HP is not exactly overpowered for a 35 foot boat. http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1979/C%26C-40-2647391/Branford/CT/United-States The boat sounds and looks decent in the ad. Only things I can see is apparently there is no canvas and the 7 foot draft. That boat would be trapped in my slip except at high tide. Joe Della Barba Coquina CC 35 MK I -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List what is wrong with these boats?
It would be no problem at Higgins in St. Michaels (in the travel lift area or on the end of the T dock), but I could swim to it from my slip I'd love to try it coming from the north in Kent Narrows - think I could get past the turn? Gary - Original Message - From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List To: 'CNC boat owners, cnc-list' Sent: Friday, July 11, 2014 11:02 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List what is wrong with these boats? None of those boats could get close to my slip nor go many of the places I go. They would be aground in my slip, aground in the marina channel, aground in Swan Creek, aground in Kent Narrows, aground in Fog Cove, aground in Knapps Narrows, etc…. Joe Della Barba j...@dellabarba.com Coquina CC 35 MK I From: Chuck S [mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net] Sent: Friday, July 11, 2014 10:39 AM To: j...@dellabarba.com; CNC boat owners, cnc-list Subject: Re: Stus-List what is wrong with these boats? FWIW, I notice deeper water exists on the Western Shore of the Chesapeake, while shallower waters are on the Eastern Shore. A keel a foot deeper can lighten a 35ft boat by 1000 pounds which plays a bigger role in lighter winds, when racing. Light displacement is not so important where it's windy or if you're motoring to gunkhole destinations more than sailing. A deep fin protects the rudder, is shorter and thinner, and when you run aground, you slimply motor back out or spin her off. The old Navy Luders Yawls drew 8ft. The newer Navy 44 by Pedrick draw 7.25'. There are a few TP52s at Bert Jabin's yard that draw 10 or 12ft. Just sayin. Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md -- From: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Friday, July 11, 2014 9:40:49 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List what is wrong with these boats? 7 foot draft would make the boat totally useless to me. 6 feet would be marginal at best. I knew someone with a deep draft 40 and they chain-sawed the bottom of the keel off and bolted on a bulb from Mars Metal to bring the weight back to spec. At least back then the cost of doing this was well made up by the increased value of the boat for the Chesapeake and Mars would give you some credit if you sent them the lead you removed. Joe Della Barba j...@dellabarba.com From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson via CnC-List Sent: Friday, July 11, 2014 9:30 AM To: Stevan Plavsa; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List what is wrong with these boats? Steve, As much as I love my 35/3, the 40 is a lot more boat for less money! I would not let another 6 inches of draft stop me unless I planned to cruise the Bahamas. Joel On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 8:19 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: There was another 40 in CT that was asking 29k recently. Same tall rig and deep draft. It's gone. There are lots of these. Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Thu, Jul 10, 2014 at 6:02 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I sometimes pick up donated boats for the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum. Another volunteer and I just sailed an early '80's O'Day 30 across the Bay for the program. He was interested, because it has a centerboard and his mooring is in rather slim water. His thoughts were: Old gear, old upholstery, only two self tailing winches, not four.. old instruments, etc. the boat was attractive and will go for low dollars. He was counting up the dollars to make it perfect and decided he wanted a boat with fewer issues to deal with. I think these boats sit around for a long time because there are few folks like many on this list who are knowledgeable enough to look through the small faults and make an offer. My friend is skilled, but still wanted the 'perfect' boat with few issues for low money. Maybe he didn't want to have another project? On the first one, the hailing port is interesting, as the boat is now in Maryland. The engine is small and has a lot of hours (almost 2000?), no self tailing winches, old (really) Moor instruments (if it breaks, buy new). The other one looks better, is a lot more money for an old boat - and seven feet is a non-starter around here. Gary still happy with the 30-1 - Original Message - From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2014 4:55 PM Subject: Stus-List what is wrong with these boats? http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1974/C%26C-MK-II-2367894/Cambridge/MD/United-States
Re: Stus-List what is wrong with these boats?
Andrew, you would have to stay away from most of the Eastern shore. As Joe mentioned, the channels leading to both Kent Narrows and Knapps Narrows are not deep enough - I've been aground in each with 5 feet (and trying to stick to the known deeper areas - neither is passable with 7). With seven feet, you would have to do a lot of straight line motoring to stay in the rather narrow channels - I guess a 427 big block would provide enough power - my buddy's Perkins 90 in his 36 footer was barely enough to pull us out in one instance (23 inch four blade prop). Even Mr. Connor ran aground in Toshiba Volvo, but that was 13 feet deep - and he was just trying to tack up the Bay. Stick to the center of the Bay (but be wary of commercial traffic in the shipping channel) - and on the western shore, and a good forward scanning sonar would help. Gary - Original Message - From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List To: Bill Bina - gmail ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Friday, July 11, 2014 11:18 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List what is wrong with these boats? I like the Chesapeake; it's all soft mud, which means that with enough horsepower pretty much every place is accessible with deep draft. And there's a channel for getting back out. Granted it'd only be a foot or two wide... Bill, where are you going in New England that more than five feet is too limiting? I can only think of a couple of places. Andy CC 40 Peregrine On Fri, Jul 11, 2014 at 11:11 AM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Up here in New England, what you hit when you run aground is often a boulder or a rock ledge, not soft forgiving Chesapeake mud! For that reason, I would never even consider a boat that drew over 5 feet. Too many places I could not visit at all, and too many obstacles everywhere else. Bill Bina -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 29-2 Spinnaker
It is no more of a hassle to fly a symmetrical chute on a 29 than it is on the J-24 (I have a 30-1 that I race every now and then and race on a J-24 each week). It is just bigger. You will probably need an additional person (we use 5 on the 30 and 4 on the 24). An adjustable spin track on the mast would be useful. The inner stay can be made to be easily disconnected. If the boat doesn't have a pole, track, extra winches, then you could consider one of those deck mounted extendable poles and fly an asymmetrical chute. It is interestingthe PHRF for a 29 is most likely higher numerically than the J-24. Around here, the 24 is 171 and a 29 is around 180. But, it is a lot more cruising friendly and powerful. Gary 30-1, J-24 on Friday, J-80 on Wednesday - Original Message - From: Pbbother via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2014 10:10 AM Subject: Stus-List CC 29-2 Spinnaker I am considering buying a CC 29-2 (1983) and would like to know how/if a symmetrical spinnaker would work on these boats. I am looking at a boat nearby, but it only has a cruising asymmetrical spinnaker. My current boat is a J/24 and I am looking for something a little more comfortable but also performance oriented. Since I have a crew for racing on the J/24, we would also want to set a spinnaker on the CC. The problem is the baby/inner stay that bisects the fore deck. Yes, I understand that we could disconnect it for the downwind leg, but that seems to be added complexity that I would rather avoid. The concern that I have is that the only photo of a symmetrical spinnaker I can find on the WEB is the original sales brochure. So, I am thinking its just a big hassle to fly a symmetrical on these boats. Any thoughts? -Ken ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Joker valve war!
I 'repaired' mine with Head Lube. Good stuff. Gary - Original Message - From: Dennis C. via CnC-List To: CnClist Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2014 10:23 PM Subject: Stus-List Joker valve war! I finally swapped out the joker valve in Touche's head because it was leaking back. Didn't leak much. Just some of the water between the bowl and the anti-siphon loop. As usual, it had become scaled up. I threw the old one in some vinegar and most of the scale dissolved but the rubber was so distorted it was dumpster material. I coated the new joker valve with TefGel hoping to get more life out of it. I think Peggy Hall, the head mistress recommends Super Lube for heads. Also, I read that throwing some vinegar in the head routinely minimizes scale build up. This really isn't a big thing for me. I get the valves wholesale for under $10 and changing one is only a 10 minute job. But I'd sure like to skip it altogether. Any other tricks? Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Thoughts on repowering with outboard
Looking at all the wonderful $5-7000 suggestions. how bad is your A4? Does it need an infusion of the auxiliary stuff, like fuel injection instead of the carb and an electronic ignition? Or is the block/head/and so forth all history??? I would think if you have been getting nickled and dimed to death for years - a big in-place overhaul/update of a reasonably good A4 would be more economical than a 10hp outboard. If you are looking for doing it on the cheap with a used outboard, then you will have to put up with a few problems. 1. The behavior in the chop is not good - you have a long boat and putting the motor on the back will bounce it in and out of the water a bunch I am on a J-24 and a J-80 and they are both afflicted with prop spinning disease. 2. The torque vs. hp situation - a regular outboard in the 10hp range is not built to push 5000 pounds, it is usually pushing about 1000. The alternative of the high torque motor is expensive. 3. The pain in the a.. of having to hang over the stern to either raise the motor or tilt it on a little boat like the J-24, it is a bother to raise the motor mount (35 pound motor!) and then tilt it. On the 80 (26 feet and low transom) we just tilt it - easier. They don't make outboards with folding props.. If you want to get somewhat elegant, you could get rid of all the inboard stuff and put the outboard in a well - a couple of feet behind the keel and in front of the rudder. My friend's Thunderbird (26+ feet - 4500 pounds) has that arrangement and the motor slides up into the boat and a little trap door fits where it came from. Smooth, and keeps the spinning prop problem at a minimum. I would go for the overhaul. Gary - Original Message - From: Paul and Darlene Clarke via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Monday, August 04, 2014 1:28 PM Subject: Stus-List Thoughts on repowering with outboard My wife and I are beginning to think it may be time to convert our C C 27, which we’ve had for 5 years, to a transom-mounted outboard engine from its original (1972) Atomic 4. Any listers have experience with a project like this, advice, or suggestions? The boat is sound, of course, as is the rig and sails, but the A4 engine is requiring infusions of $$ every year, and is not reliable. Every year we’ve been scuppered, and I want reliability without the cost of a new inboard… hence the idea to try the outboard route. Thoughts? ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Thoughts on repowering with outboard
Rich, I think some others don't feel you are a skeptic. A friend took the inboard one cylinder diesel out of his Andrews 26 (it died, no parts available) and replaced it with an outboard. He got a three second addition to his PHRF. We couldn't understand until someone mentioned ballast - down low verses in the back. Gary - Original Message - From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List To: Rich Knowles ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Monday, August 04, 2014 5:12 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Thoughts on repowering with outboard No one has suggested Plan C - Buy another (bigger) boat! Seriously, a very good discussion. Joel On Monday, August 4, 2014, Rich Knowles via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I just caught up with this. I have had both outboard and inboard powered boats. The least annoying ones to operate were the inboards. The memory of hanging over the transom between the pushpit rails and fiddling with a recalcitrant motor bracket or reluctant outboard motor still annoys me. The CC 27 was designed around an inboard engine which provides some 300 lbs of ballast and helps make the boat the fine sail boat it is. If that were removed and 150 lbs of outboard and bracket glued to the stern, I think the boat's dynamics would change. Maybe for the better, but I'm a sceptic. I faced a defunct motor two years ago and, once I decided, it was relatively easy to haul it out of the boat, strip it down and take it to a rebuild shop. It cost about 2K for parts and 2K for labour, ⅓ to ¼ of the cost of replacing it. It now has new pistons, rings, bearings, valves and a rebuilt fuel management system. Runs like a charm. Total cost, about $4K. If you know a anyone in the community college circuit, they are often looking for small engines to rebuild as classroom projects. That could save you a large bit of the cost of a rebuild; the labour. And it will give you considerable satisfaction knowing you have a sound engine on board and it's as the builder intended. Rich Knowles INDIGO LF38. 1981 Halifax, NS On Aug 4, 2014, at 14:28, Paul and Darlene Clarke via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: My wife and I are beginning to think it may be time to convert our C C 27, which we’ve had for 5 years, to a transom-mounted outboard engine from its original (1972) Atomic 4. Any listers have experience with a project like this, advice, or suggestions? The boat is sound, of course, as is the rig and sails, but the A4 engine is requiring infusions of $$ every year, and is not reliable. Every year we’ve been scuppered, and I want reliability without the cost of a new inboard… hence the idea to try the outboard route. Thoughts? ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List big $$$ used CC
Inner Harbor East is very good if you haven't found something else. We used it when going to the Indy cars the last three years. Gary St. Michaels - Original Message - From: Chris Price via CnC-List To: sam.c.sal...@gmail.com ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2014 11:26 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List big $$$ used CC Bought my 35 Mk I for 13 k 15 years ago. Compared to beach house rentals for one week/ year, I'm ahead of the game. It's not an investment, it's what you do with your disposable income. My family has not suffered. Chris Price 35 Mk I p. s. Sailing to Baltimore, getting-a slip and walking to the Ravens game tomorrow. Back to the club Friday for a Bridal shower for my daughter. Can't put a price on that. Sent from my iPhone On Aug 6, 2014, at 11:07 PM, Sam Salter via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Friend of mine is $80k and 8 years into an Ericsson 30 rebuild. He can't get an offer of $20k. My CC 26 cost me $24k 12 years ago. Since then it's retail has halved and I've probably got $20k into it in up grades. When I bought it, there was no thought of selling it and there still isn't. Good job, 'cause this thought line can drive you nuts. I'm going to either leave it to one of the grandkids (if I can get one interested in sailing), or sail west until we (boat and I) fall off the edge - this is plan B 'cause I'm a lake sailor! sam :-) From: Dennis C. via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, August 6, 2014 6:27 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Reply To: Dennis C. Subject: Re: Stus-List big $$$ used CC I quit tracking $$ when I went north of $20K. That was years ago. Dennis C. Touché 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA Sent from my iPhone On Aug 6, 2014, at 6:35 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Ha! I do keep that kind of accounting on all the money that I have and will be spending on our boat over the years. I can afford a new(er) boat. I’m just wondering why in the friggin’ hell I haven’t pulled the trigger on that option... Cheers, Dave Godwin 1982 CC 37 - Ronin Reedville - Chesapeake Bay Ronin’s Overdue Refit On Aug 6, 2014, at 1:56 PM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: If I kept that kind of accounting for my business I could probably afford a bigger boat :( -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny Haughey via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2014 1:48 PM To: w...@wbryant.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List big $$$ used CC OMG... If i kept that that kind of accounting foe my boat I'd probably want to shoot myself!!! LOL There is LOTS of things I conveniently forget that I had to pay for!!! LOL Danny Lolita 1973 Viking 33 Westport Point, MA -- Original Message -- From: Wally Bryant via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List big $$$ used CC Date: Wed, 06 Aug 2014 17:39:48 + Read it and weep: http://www.wbryant.com/temp/refurbcost.pdf or read it and laugh. Or laugh and weep. Or drink tequila and don't worry about it... The amazing thing is that I did most of the work myself, and very little of it was cosmetic. That was intentional. The boat is structurally sound enough to survive anything that *I'm* structurally sound enough to survive, but if thieves are cruising by in a panga trying to decide which boat to break into, they'll probably choose somebody else. BTW, the boat that started this thread is not a neglected boat in any book. Wal you wrote: Fair warning: You'll spend far more then you think refurbishing a neglected boat, even buying used stuff, being creative with eBay, and working on it yourself . ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address:
Re: Stus-List Prop size/pitch for a Yanmar 1GM10 in a 27 MkII
And, a dirty prop I was picking up a donated boat for our museum a couple of years ago. It was dirty, but I figured it would make it - at black smoke rpm's, it was going about a knot. Hauled it and the prop was just a round ball of goop. Clean it up and then test it. Gary - Original Message - From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List To: CC List ; Paul Baker Sent: Friday, August 15, 2014 8:15 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Prop size/pitch for a Yanmar 1GM10 in a 27 MkII It is hard to say but a dirty bottom CAN be that big of an effect. Josh On Aug 15, 2014 6:20 PM, Paul Baker via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Hi Folks, Any 27MkII folks out there with a Yanmar 1GM10 diesel? What prop do you have on there, and is it able to achieve max rpm under load? I can't recall what I have (3 blade but don't know size/pitch) but at 2700rpm I am billowing black smoke and still only doing 5kts. Dirty bottom is going to contribute to this, plus some junk on the prop itself, but I wouldn't have thought it would be *that* big an effect. Cheers, Paul ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC30MK1 sail plan
Curtis, I have the owners manual for Penniless and there is no mention of a 'sail plan'. The pictures show what looks like a 140 or 150 and that is about it. For your information, I use the 155 up to about 15 - 18 apparent, then drop to the 140. Unless I am racing, and then sometimes I'll reef and leave the 155 so I can go better downwind. This assumes no spinnaker. On the Chesapeake, I am not alone with only one reefing point. As you (I'm sure) have experienced, the rudder loses effectiveness when heeled with the rail under, so that is when I drop down to the 140. l have the original 'working jib' by Hood which is still in very good shape - hardly ever gets out of the bag, so I don't have much experience in that area. Gary - Original Message - From: Curtis via CnC-List To: Josh Muckley ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Tuesday, August 19, 2014 1:26 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List CC30MK1 sail plan Yeeea, Maybe I was not clear on my point.I am kinda just looking for written speck's on the boat. I wanted to have it in my book. I wanted the official CC version. I would like to see how the numbers measure up other boats. Not looking for sailing advise. I know when to shake one out or the fly the kite. That's why I gave an example. Thank you for your help. On Tue, Aug 19, 2014 at 12:48 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Good point Joe. I did make the assumption that he was talking about a monohull despite referencing a catamaran. Josh P.S. So the charter companies don't like seeing their boats sailed properly? On Aug 19, 2014 12:20 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: You are missing a vital point. Charter cats NEED a written sailplan. They have little to no steering feel and don't heel until it is too late. If you leave too much sail up they might just round up against full rudder, go really fast but ruin the sails*, break something, or perhaps capsize. It should be very obvious when a CC needs some sail trim. If you need both hands on the wheel to steer and the rail is underwater that is a good hint. You also need to know the strength of the sails and the strength of the crew. My #1 genoas could be used off the wind in a lot more wind than would be good for the light cloth. My spinnaker is a light air sail for us while cruising. We don't have the manpower to handle a heavy air spinnaker run with just my wife and I to do all the work. *do not show charter company video of their boat doing 15 knots. Just sayin' Joe Della Barba Coquina CC 35 MK I Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 CC 37+ Solomons, MD On Aug 19, 2014 10:32 AM, Curtis via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Can anybody give me the sailplan for my boat? What sail to use under what wind condition. What is the comfort rating, tern over ratio. I have no paper work with this boat that shows this information. It would be nice to have a printed version of this information. example on sail -plan The sail plan for a Lagoon 380 in sustained winds is as follows: Force 5 winds (up to 22 knots): full sail, both main and jib. Force 6 winds (22 to 26 knots): one reef in the main and full jib. Force 7 winds (27 to 28 knots): one reef in the main and one reef in the jib. Force 7 winds (29 to 33 knots): two reefs in both the main and the jib. Force 8 winds (34 to 38 knots): two reefs in the main and three reefs in the jib. Force 9 winds (39 to 44 knots): drop mainsail completely and three reefs in jib. Above 44 knots, all sail is dropped and the mainsail bag and boom will be quite enough sail, thank you. Thanks for your help... -- Best regards, Curtis McDaniel, CC 30-MK1 East Coast Lady Port Royal, South Carolina cpt.b...@gmail.com __/) . ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Best regards, Curtis McDaniel, CC
Re: Stus-List Sailing Totem - (CC's) Keels Falling Off!
Crap. Gary - Original Message - From: Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List To: Kevin Driscoll ; CCList Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2014 11:39 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Sailing Totem - (CC's) Keels Falling Off! I have heard via this site of many issues concerning our old boats, but so far not one report of a keel falling off either via gravity or grounding. Did I miss something or is the woman writing this blog just full of crap? Best regards, Jack Fitzgerald CC 39 TM (1974) # 69) HONEY US12788 Savannah On Wed, Aug 20, 2014 at 11:27 AM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Does anyone know if there is any base to the assertion the Ms. Gifford makes in her Sailing Totem blog that “(CC’s) keels are falling off!” http://www.sailfeed.com/2014/08/theres-this-boat-mary-powell/ Assuming not, could someone remind her that baseless assertions, distributed by her through various channels (Sailfeed, email, f*book, etc.) is irresponsible and is the malady that leads to the unfortunate afflictions behind Rebel Heart slander and other unfortunate rumoring. I would email, but I need to get back to work. Kevin Portland 30-2 Kevin Driscoll Portland, Oregon 503 // 875 // 3493 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List wilcox crittendon head
Tighten up the little black plastic nut. There's an O ring underneath, so be careful. Gary - Original Message - From: Bev Parslow via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2014 11:44 AM Subject: Stus-List wilcox crittendon head I hope I have the name correct as the boat is away with one of the children at the moment. It is a new one head and seems to leak in the same place as the old one...at the top of the pump when pulling up. Is there a magic solution to the leak? -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Ever broke the key in the ignition switch?
After finding out (the same way you folks have) that the key is easy to break and it is also easy to bust the switch. I then replaced it for about $50 and then I found out that my old key fit my new switch and, looking at some other Yanmar switches and finding out they are all the same.which means anyone with a screwdriver or any Yanmar key could start your boatplus realizing that if the main switch (locked inside) isn't on, nothing happens! I replaced the expensive Yanmar key switch with a simple push/pull switch. Now, if someone (me?) hits it with his/her feet, all it does is turn off the electricity to the instruments, the engine still runs. Gary - Original Message - From: coltrek via CnC-List To: Jean-Francois J Rivard ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Monday, August 25, 2014 8:44 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Ever broke the key in the ignition switch? I was able to get my broken key out with the broken piece and a little bit of superglue. I did not want this to happen again, so I cut most of the spare key off, drilled a little hole through it and put a small ring through it. Now, nothing sticks out, I just pull the ring up to rotate it. Bill Original message From: Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List Date:08/25/2014 6:49 PM (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Ever broke the key in the ignition switch? Yesterday, it was pretty sporty on the lake with winds in the upper teens, my son was rushing from the deck to the cockpit and kicked the engine start key / broke it as he stepped over to come and take the wheel for a while.. I could not find my spare key so I had to stick the broken half back into the slot to get the engine re-started. Back at the marina in the evening, I tried to remove the broken piece by prying / pulling it out with a variety of small screwdrivers, drill bits. and other implements nothing was working and it was getting late so I decided to take the switch off to bring home and figure it out later. That's when I found out that I was very thankful for thoughtful Yanmar engineers: There is a slot in the barrel directly over the key's teeth. All you need to do is stick a small screwdriver in the slot and push the offending broken piece out.. Brillant! Outside of that it was a phenomenal day on the lake. Probably the best sail this year so far.. -Francois Rivard 1990 34+ Take Five Lake Lanier, Georgia -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List more rookie sail handling questions
I can't respond to the stay question, as I don't have those, but you can fly your jib 'wing and wing' using a whisker or your spinnaker pole. I do it all the time with a 155. Pole hooked to mast and the jib sheet. If you have a pole lift (topping lift), that makes it easier and keeps the pole from bouncing around so much. Give it a try - I would recommend a preventer for the boom, as you are flirting with the boom flying across the boat as you are going dead downwind. I rig a line from a mid boom bail forward to a snatch block on the rail a bit forward of the shrouds then back to a block on the side of the cabin - if you don't have that, you will have to improvise. Good luck, Gary 30-1 - Original Message - From: Burt Stratton via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2014 12:26 PM Subject: Stus-List more rookie sail handling questions Seems simple but.. Sailing a new to me mid 70s 33 3/4ton special. I have run into a couple of unexpected challenges when running or even on a broad reach. I can't seem to get the either quarter stay out of the way to let the main out enough. The lines that control the tension on them are too short to get them out of the way. They run through a double set of blocks. Is that just a rigging mistake or am I missing something? (I just took the boat the way it was rigged). It seems to be a lot of unnecessary work to have to re-thread the blocks or disconnect and reconnect the shackle. Also, when running is winging the jib a common (or acceptable) practice with such a large sail (135 I think)? If so, I would appreciate a suggestion or two in that direction. I don't have a good enough crew to fly the spinnaker. In fact assume I am single handing but with someone to occasionally watch the tiller for me. No tiller tamer or auto-pilot this year. Skip -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Tank sizes on the 1981 CC30MK1?
My owners manual (with 1977 update) says the fuel tank is 20 gallons, the settee water tank is about 15 or so and the one in the bow is 25 or so, the total water is 40. My bow tank leaks, so I never have filled it. The holding tank is about 15. Gary #593 - Original Message - From: Curtis via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Sunday, September 07, 2014 9:16 AM Subject: Stus-List Tank sizes on the 1981 CC30MK1? Does anybody have the factory tank volumes on this model boat? Water, diesel Fuel 2gm20F Yanmar, Water starboard and bow, Holding tank? Thanks for your help. -- Best regards, Curtis McDaniel, CC 30-MK1 East Coast Lady Port Royal, South Carolina cpt.b...@gmail.com __/) . -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Stereo finally works
I did the same - two different set of 'marine' speakers lasted about a year each before they disintegrated. Now, I have some neat starboard covers for where they used to be - the inside ones are OK. I guess I never really wanted outside noise. Gary - Original Message - From: dwight via CnC-List To: 'Joel Aronson' ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2014 9:03 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Stereo finally works Joel I cut holes to put so-called weatherproof cockpit speakers on Alianna, wish I had not done that. We hardly ever used them and now one has a bad crackle noise already.I suggest spending that extra money on better cabin speakers. I just disconnected my cockpit speakers so now they look like air vents Dwight Veinot CC 35MKII, Alianna Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS -- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson via CnC-List Sent: September 9, 2014 9:55 AM To: Rich Knowles; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Stereo finally works I'm thinking of mounting the new speakers in the inspection port covers in the transom. I hate cutting holes in my boat! I'll wait for the Defender sale to shop for speakers, but I rarely sail with the stereo on, so I'm not looking to spend big bucks. Joel On Mon, Sep 8, 2014 at 8:17 PM, Rich Knowles via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: 8 or 4 ohms will make very little difference in sonic performance. The amps' outputs are much lower impedance so the speakers are in a bridging configuration. Rich On Sep 8, 2014, at 19:50, Sylvain Laplante via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: One thing to remember is that most boat audio systems are 4 ohms and it is better to use speakers with same impedance ( 8 ohm will take too much juice ). Sometimes you only discover it after everything is installed :-) Sylvain CC27MkIII From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Monday, September 8, 2014 6:25 PM Subject: Stus-List Stereo finally works After three years my stereo is fully functional. I replaced the old stereo with a Sony unit after I bought the boat. One of the 2 interior speakers worked and the 2 cheapo West cockpit speakers worked. After spending way too much time, I finally figured out that the speaker wire was to corroded to carry a signal. Initially, I replaced most of the wire with household wire. DONT USE HOUSEHOLD SPEAKER WIRE. That lasted about a season. I finally replaced all of the wire with marine grade wire. Then I discovered that the rubber around the speaker cones disintegrated. I bought 5 1/4 inch car speakers that fit into the enclosures for the cabin speakers, and then found out the cockpit speakers did't work. Turns out someone twisted and taped the connections. New crimp connectors fixed them. Finally, 4 working speakers! Now, need to upgrade the cockpit speakers. Joel 35/3 The Office Annapolis -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 -- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2014.0.4765 / Virus Database: 4015/8146 - Release Date: 09/03/14 -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address:
Re: Stus-List CNG for stove
There are some boat yards which trade tanks, you give the old, they give the new - for a fee. Ours does just that. Gary - Original Message - From: Rick Brass via CnC-List To: Richard N. Bush ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Friday, September 12, 2014 12:02 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List CNG for stove Converting your stove from CNG to propane is simply a matter of changing the orfices in the burners. My new Frigidaire gas stove (in the home) actually came with a set of each. The CNG jets were factory installed and the LPG in a package attached to the installation instructions. The delivery people installed the LPG jets when they installed the stove. Talk to an appliance vendor. I don't think I've ever heard of a CNG stove in an RV, so the lack of information is not surprising. Your tank and regulator should have manufacturer labels on them. See if the manufacturer can identify the local installer for you. The CNG system is another matter. CNG is methane gas and lighter than air so no need for a vented locker, sensors, etc. The tank is at much higher pressures in order to store a useful amount of gas (systems on forklift trucks can be up to 3000 psi) and you still store a lot less fuel than in a similar size LPG tank. There is probably an expensive two stage regulator to bring the gas pressure down to 2-3psi. And it is hard to find anyone to fill your tank. You might ask your municipal gas company or the local bus company if they can either fill the tank or identify someone who can. The benefits to CNG are that it is safer than LPG, it burns hotter so cooks faster, and it is ridiculously inexpensive (which is why most new buses run on it). Rick Brass Sent from my iPad On Sep 11, 2014, at 15:59, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Does anyone on the list use CNG for their stove? If so, could you tell me about how it works, suppliers, and pitfalls? My boat came with a CNG stove and full tank of CNG; the system seems to be in good condition, but I'm too intimidated by it to try it before having someone check it out; but there is no one in our area, (meaning RV dealers) who has any knowledge of how it works or useful information; I have looked into converting the stove to propane, which means purchasing a new stove and full propane system, $$$; many thanks for any info or help; Richard 1985 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584 Richard N. Bush Law Offices 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 502-584-7255 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List sailing under jib alone
I figure that with the 'tree stump' of a mast on the 30-1, I should be OK. I have done it a couple of times when the wind is up (rare, around here) and used the working jib. No problem. Gary - Original Message - From: Martin DeYoung via CnC-List To: Fred Hazzard ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Friday, September 19, 2014 4:35 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List sailing under jib alone … applies to fractional rigs without running back stays. It could also apply to mast head rigs without back stays. What Fred said matches my understanding of why there may be some concern expressed by some sailors regarding sailing with head sails only. In the very old days the ship’s rudders were so small and weak balancing and steering the vessel by the location and trim of the sails was necessary. Modern designs and construction methods allow us to compensate for an un-balanced rig with mechanical advantage and a strong rudder. During the heyday of IOR designs, including fractional rigs, many designers and owners in search of the smallest advantage would put up a lightly built small section mast. I recall seeing 4 and 5 spreader rigs on 40’ boats with very small section mast extrusions. Many of these rigs appreciated the additional fore and aft stabilization that the mainsail gave to the mast itself. Many of these rigs went over the side owing to operator error. For those of us sailing a well maintained non-custom (thinking Evergreen here) CC design with the headsail only in most conditions but certainly in light air will not jeopardize the rig’s stability. If you find yourself in heavy air “pounding” conditions it may be well to sight up the mast as the boat makes a hard landing to be sure the mast “pumping” (fore and aft”) is under control. In those extreme conditions some mainsail load may add some dampening to the mast pumping. Martin Calypso 1971 CC 43 Seattle From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Fred Hazzard via CnC-List Sent: Friday, September 19, 2014 12:36 PM To: Joel Aronson; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List sailing under jib alone I imagine that not sailing with jib only applies to fractional rigs without running back stays. It could also apply to mast head rigs with out back stays. Fred Hazzard S/V Fury CC 44 Porland, Or On Fri, Sep 19, 2014 at 9:00 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: All, Earlier this week I went out for a lazy sail after work. Unfurled the jib in 10 knots of wind and decided I was too lazy to remove the main cover and hoist the main. I've read that sailing under only jib is bad because it places an uneven load on the rigging. Seems to me that the load is minimal in light air and the total load is a lot less under one sail. Thoughts? Joel 35/3 Annapolis -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List c and c 29-2 mast cap.
If the 29 is like the 30, then the whole top of the mast (aluminum casting) comes off - it rests on the top of the mast, but the casting goes down inside of the mast. The sheaves are in the top piece, and you must take it off to get the sheave axles out. Mine is secured with about 8 stainless screws, evenly spaced around the casting. It is a tight fit, it took some prying with small pry bars to get it out. I agree - I think the 29 is keel stepped and if so, keeping the lowers in place and using the pole topping lift can hold the mast in place while you work on the top. But, your crane must hold you up there without any help from halyards and such, as they are all attached to or through the top casting. Gary - Original Message - From: Tim Goodyear via CnC-List To: Bev Parslow ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Sunday, September 21, 2014 10:08 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List c and c 29-2 mast cap. On the 35-3, you would not have to affect the standing rigging to change a sheave. It should be possible from a bosun's chair (at the crane or on other halyards). I would suggest going up to check what it looks like before gathering the right tools and planning the job. On the 35-3, the sheaves are rigged similar to those on the boom. There is a stainless cover over one end of the sheave axle. When that is removed, you should be able to push the axle out and remove the sheave (holding it as others suggested). Yours may be different, but it may not be necessary to remove the mast cap. Tim Mojito 35-3 Branford, CT On Sep 21, 2014, at 7:14 PM, Bev Parslow via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: We have a mast tower at the club. The main sheave needs to be replaced. Can we take off the cap at the mast tower and avoid hauling out the mast for the replacement? ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List wife dosen't like it when the boat leans
I've been lucky. My first admiral was gung-ho for almost anything thrilling, so sailing on the windows was not a problem. We used to take our Coronado 15 dinghy out into the ocean from Marina del Rey and up to Santa Monica and back - surfing down the side of waves on the way back. (she then co-drove the IMSA 911) Second admiral was much the same way - another 911 person - now the co-owner of Penniless - and running second in the Wednesday night B fleet (has a first place trophy from a few years back). Current admiral was raised by a father with an old Alden 46 yawl. After many summers spent sanding and varnishing, he would take it out when the wind was over 15, so it would move. Now, she doesn't like it when the rail is not close to the waves. As I said, I'm lucky. Gary - Original Message - From: Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Monday, September 22, 2014 9:41 AM Subject: Stus-List wife dosen't like it when the boat leans I'm in the same boat (Pun intended) The kids dig it, every one except the dog and my wife loves to hang out on the rail when the wind pipes up. No matter how much I tell my wife that the lake winds and little chop are not even close to being a challenge for a boat that was meant for offshore racing / cruising she just sits there worried.. My biggest problem is that she does not participate much anymore. The few times she was grinding or doing something she kinda got into it. We tried her at the helm many times, she does not have much of a feel for it and typically looses focus which turns into luffing / half tacks..When I try to talk her through it, she takes it as a personal dig on her sailing skills. Obviously, she's a bit short on skills, she's have never sailed before. My next attempt is to get her to take lessons from the local guy at the marina. (We're overdue for formal stuff) I meant to do it last year but much needed boat maintenance / updates drained the available funds. I figure (Hope) she'll be more receptive to the instructor's advice and instructions. I think if we can get her busy on the boat, she'll enjoy it better. -Francois 1990 34+ Take Five Lake Lanier, Georgia -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?
Ours used to do so as well - insurance now, we can leave them up. Mine comes down every two or three years, just because I either have to fix something up there or under the mast step. Last year, I got the mast out and stored the boat under the shed - no cover, no nothing. neat! The year before, it was up and we were shrink-wrapped. This year, up, on land, and a small cover (the shrink-wrap is expensive and doesn't seem to keep it that much cleaner than a boom top tarp). Hopefully we will be next to the building again - protects from adverse wind. Small yard. Gary - Original Message - From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List To: rjcasci...@comcast.net ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Monday, September 22, 2014 3:48 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast removal for winter? The yard where I keep my boat requires the mast to come down for winter storage on the hard. I feel it gives me the opportunity to have a look at everything every year. It also makes covering her up a lot easier... Danny Lolita 1973 Viking 33 Westport Point, MA -- Original Message -- From: Ron Casciato via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: 'Hoyt, Mike' mike.h...@impgroup.com, cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast removal for winter? Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2014 15:41:35 -0400 Mike: I agree that we haven't talked about this one for some time..in my case (mast up)...the cost to take it down and put it back up is prohibitivemore than $500 which is not part of the storage agreementnot doing that every year. Ron C. -- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List Sent: Monday, September 22, 2014 3:32 PM To: Joel Aronson; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast removal for winter? This is a long time debate. Which damages boat / mast more? Removal and reinstall of mast and potential mishaps or leaving it up? I know that one season on our J27 we left the mast up. That Spring while working on the boat the entire cradle would vibrate every time a gust of wind hit. I attribute this to a very slender and bendy spar as much as anything. The big issue these days seems to be leaving a spar up with a boat on jack stands. The extra windage of the mast further compromises the integrity of jack stands. One local club (Dartmouth Yacht Club) will not permit a mast to be left up on the hard unless the boat is stored on a cradle. Another way to look at it is if you wish to use jack stands the mast must come down. I realize that many boat yards in the Northeast US only allow jackstands. I believe this is due to yard space and not due to a jackstand being more secure than a cradle. So here we are back to the very old mast up vs mast down question. At the very least mast down does give you a good opportunity to inspect the standing rigging and the mast Mike From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson via CnC-List Sent: Monday, September 22, 2014 4:17 PM To: Ron Casciato; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast removal for winter? Same in Annapolis. Masts stay in the boat unless they are being worked on. Joel On Mon, Sep 22, 2014 at 3:13 PM, Ron Casciato via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: In the boatyards around Boston.almost no masts are removed for winter storage..most are stored with mast up and seem to do well In the past 14 years, I've only taken mine down for revisions or repairs to wind instruments..probably 3 times in that 14 year interval It will be staying up again this year. Yes, relieve the tension on shrouds and backstay a little not flopping around Ron C. Impromptu CC 38MKIIC.'77 -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List Sent: Monday, September 22, 2014 2:03 PM To: Dr. Mark Bodnar; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast removal for winter? Mast up with a boat on jack stands is not a good idea. Many clubs around here do not permit it -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List Sent: Monday, September 22, 2014 2:47 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Mast removal for winter? All the discussion about unstepping the mast has me wondering about the merits of leaving it in or pulling it out for the winter. In the owners manual for the CS 30 is states CS Yachts does not recommend that the yacht be stored with the mast left in place as this places stresses on the hull and rig not encountered during normal operation. Any damage to the yacht, its cradle or any associated part
Re: Stus-List Wife dosen't like it when the boat leans
What do you guys do when cruising? I often hand over the helm when we are heading across the Bay and then tell her where we want to go (follow the line on the screen.) and then take a nap or do something down below. Just ask her to alert you if there is something she doesn't understand. If you go off course somewhat, so what (in the middle of the Bay)! She should be as good as you in seeing obstacles and such. If the boat heels, then alter course so it doesn't do that so much (for a while). Pretty soon, she will tire of having to be so alert and give it back or she won't and then you'll have to negotiate. For the last few years, we have made a trip to Baltimore - about 35-40 miles. I drive up to Kent Narrows and weave our way through the buoys and under the bridge. When we are in clear water, I am done. She drives to the river entrance and if we are lucky, all the way up to town. Last year, it was a broad reach turning into a close reach all the way - no tacks for 20+ miles. She drove. And then did most of the way back. Gary - Original Message - From: Martin DeYoung via CnC-List To: Jean-Francois J Rivard ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Monday, September 22, 2014 5:29 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Wife dosen't like it when the boat leans I heard of a boat named Ruthless. The guy's wife's name was Ruth. Then there was the famous race boat, FUJIMO. IIRC it stands for F*#$k you Judy I'm moving on. Martin Calypso 1971 CC 43 Seattle From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List Sent: Monday, September 22, 2014 2:03 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Wife dosen't like it when the boat leans I'll let you guys know how the lessons help.. Racing did not help, she clammed-up even worse for fear that she'd screw something up. Even if on that particular race, everything that could be screwed-up was already taken care of so no one really cared. No amount of screwing-up was going to make our last place any worse. :-) Giving her the helm.. Been there done that, same result. Talking to other wifes.. It depends, At the club parties it runs the gammut from enthusiastic sailor ladies to killjoys that never come out sailing, just show up for parties.. When she runs into the lather all they say is too hot, too cold, too windy, too sunny, too humid, etc, etc. then I'm loosing ground. I'm banking on the lessons.. Truth to be told, if you're that much not into the boating thing, just sitting around on a boat is not much more fun than sitting around anywhere else.. Especially given the fact that on the lake, when it's (Really) windy, it's usually not very sunny, often a bit coldish, so you have to look at the big picture to appreciate what's going on. On the plus she's fairly athletic so maybe once she told what's what by someone else and understands better what's going on she'll get into the workout / physical side of it and get a little rush that way... I guess that's typical boat stuff: one more thing to figure out... -Francois 1990 34+ Take Five Lake Lanier, Georgia. -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Wife doesn't like it when the boat leans ( sort of )
I think you are right. Black pipe wrapped. There may have been an (expensive) Yanmar mixing elbow in the mix originally, but you should have a flange bolted to the exhaust manifold (I am speaking about my 2 cyl Yanmar) which has threads for the pipe and is removed with four bolts. I have gone through two broken 'mixing elbows' over the last 20 years. The rest is available from a home improvement store. The 'elbow' has to be welded. The fiberglass/asbestos(?) tape is available from Moyer Marine, the Atomic 4 specialists. Gary 30-1 - Original Message - From: Allen White via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2014 8:31 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Wife doesn't like it when the boat leans ( sort of ) Since we had an amazing trip up the River on Saturday running with the wind for 4 hours, a great dinner, party at another club, walk the town and a great breakfast, why beat into 14knts on the nose trying to make our way back down the narrow river home? We'll just motor through the narrows, drop the hook for lunch and then sail the rest of the way ! About 2 hours into the trip, she says Why do I smell exhaust? Probably a wind eddy as we are passing 30 feet from a highway bridge abutment. Not believing myself, and noticing a change in the exhaust note, I pulled the companion way steps to have a look. Smoke, steam and water spraying all over the place. In a surprisingly calm voice, she asks Do we have a fire ? No, just a broken exhaust. What will we do ? We are after all a sailboat, we'll sail ! Raised the sails, and beat the rest of the trip in short tacks home, where several friendly members at our club were at the slip to help us in. First time I sailed into the slip. Nice smooth landing, all well. Now the point of the post: Yanmar SB 8 single. Is the exhaust just black pipe wrapped with fiberglass tape ? It appears to be nothing more. I don't know what may have been done to her before I got her, but it looks like a bushing, 3 inch nipple, 90, 3 inch nipple, 90, 1 1/2 inch nipple, y adapter for water outlet from top of engine, copper male to sweat fitting that is clamped into exhaust hose to muffler. May be slightly different as it was kind of dark last night while I was in there. Also any wisdom on getting the old pipe out of the top of the engine ? Thanks, Allen Windfall '78 CC 26 Poughkeepsie Yacht Club Hudson River - Hyde Park, NY --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC30MK1 windows and hatch replacements
Curtis, be very careful when taking the old ones out. They are glued in with some powerful stuff and you stand a good chance of chipping the gelcoat around the windows (don't ask me how I know). You may want to try a dremel or one of those vibrating side cutters (Fein tool?). Then you have to clean up the area where the adhesive was - it was probably laid on pretty thick and is another dremel job - again - care. Some folks use a special adhesive called Plexus, which is a two part glue and needs a special gun for application. The windows are bonded into the side of the cabin and are part of the structure. You have to hold them in place (they are slightly bent to match the curve of your cabin). Or you can use Sikaflex 295, which requires a cleaner, a primer (mandatory!!!) and the adhesive. Don't get creative and try anything else, there are probably 100 war stories about folks who have experimented and then got the opportunity to do it right the next year. Search through the archives on the site - most of the late '70's and later original CC's had glued in windows and there are a lot of threads on this repair. It is doable but not trivial. Jake had a pretty good description if I remember correctly. Gary Nylander (Been there with moderate success) - Original Message - From: Curtis via CnC-List To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2014 8:21 AM Subject: Stus-List CC30MK1 windows and hatch replacements Good morning, I'm thinking of a winter project to replace the cabin side windows with something stronger and nice. Has anybody undergone this project that could share their process and maybe some photos ? Do I just cut them out with a razor knife and take them to a lexan shop and have them duplicate them in a lighter color? Is there a framed in type? I have been stopping leaks in them windows sense I got the boat? I also want to rebuild the forward hatch and need something strong and that lets in more light. I need to know if the gasket around the inside is replaceable? Mine is cracking up and needs to be replaced. all-tho the leaking looks to be the caulking of the class itself to the frame. If you can share some in-depth details on how the two mentioned projects are to be completed I would be very thankful. I am very good at DIY projects and could do this project without imput. It is so much nicer hearing from people that have done it. Thanks Best regards, Curtis CC 30-MK1 East Coast Lady Port Royal, South Carolina cpt.b...@gmail.com __/) . -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC30MK1 windows and hatch replacements
The earliest ones did, but they changed to the glued ones sometime in the late '70's. Gary - Original Message - From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2014 3:54 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List CC30MK1 windows and hatch replacements Doesn't the 30 MK I have the same aluminum frame ports the 35 MK I has? Those are pretty easy to DIY. Joe Della Barba Coquina CC 35 MK I From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2014 1:28 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List CC30MK1 windows and hatch replacements I've done a bunch of reading on this topic as my windows are cracked and need replacement. I don't have any experience actually doing it but I've read multiple different techniques -- so my comments should be taken with a grain (or bag) of salt! Nest year I may be able to speak from experience. I remember one discussion on the problem with adhesives was that the acrylic expands and contracts at different rates than the boat (or does not match boat flexing) and that most people put too thin a layer of adhesive - which could not absorb the movement. The recommended solution was to use double sided tape to keep the acrylic a couple millimeters off the gelcoat - then squeeze the adhesive caulk in around the edges for the water proofing. With more thickness there is more ability to absorb the different motions. Mark There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval. - George SantayanaOn 23/09/2014 12:42 PM, Nate Flesness via CnC-List wrote: A few years ago I lightly ran a cutting knife around the outside edge of the 30-year glued windows, went inside and hit each one once, moderately, with my fist. Every one popped right out. No gelcoat damage, but scarily easy Did the cast acrylic/plexus routine, was happy with nice new ports except for the not so pretty glue line showing through #2404 bronze 3/8, but then this year the large window started leaking again. Broken-hearted would cover it. One of several reasons we're currently closing on a boat with Lewmar ports. Nate Sarah Jean 1980 30-1 Siskiwit Bay Marina Lake Superior On Tue, Sep 23, 2014 at 7:54 AM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Curtis, be very careful when taking the old ones out. They are glued in with some powerful stuff and you stand a good chance of chipping the gelcoat around the windows (don't ask me how I know). You may want to try a dremel or one of those vibrating side cutters (Fein tool?). Then you have to clean up the area where the adhesive was - it was probably laid on pretty thick and is another dremel job - again - care. Some folks use a special adhesive called Plexus, which is a two part glue and needs a special gun for application. The windows are bonded into the side of the cabin and are part of the structure. You have to hold them in place (they are slightly bent to match the curve of your cabin). Or you can use Sikaflex 295, which requires a cleaner, a primer (mandatory!!!) and the adhesive. Don't get creative and try anything else, there are probably 100 war stories about folks who have experimented and then got the opportunity to do it right the next year. Search through the archives on the site - most of the late '70's and later original CC's had glued in windows and there are a lot of threads on this repair. It is doable but not trivial. Jake had a pretty good description if I remember correctly. Gary Nylander (Been there with moderate success) - Original Message - From: Curtis via CnC-List To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2014 8:21 AM Subject: Stus-List CC30MK1 windows and hatch replacements Good morning, I'm thinking of a winter project to replace the cabin side windows with something stronger and nice. Has anybody undergone this project that could share their process and maybe some photos ? Do I just cut them out with a razor knife and take them to a lexan shop and have them duplicate them in a lighter color? Is there a framed in type? I have been stopping leaks in them windows sense I got the boat? I also want to rebuild the forward hatch and need something strong and that lets in more light. I need to know if the gasket around the inside is replaceable? Mine is cracking up and needs to be replaced. all-tho the leaking looks to be the caulking of the class itself to the frame. If you can share some in-depth details on how the two mentioned projects are to be completed I would be very thankful. I am very
Re: Stus-List Wife dosen't like it when the boat leans
Try Womanship - they have a school in Annapolis, but hold classes in the Caribbean. A friend went - loved it. Gary - Original Message - From: Tim Goodyear via CnC-List To: Dennis C. ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Jean-Francois J Rivard Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2014 4:46 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Wife dosen't like it when the boat leans Dennis / others, Do you have any recommendations for such a course, preferably somewhere warm and with some considerable learning opportunities (moving from very competent crew to command / self-sufficiency, not basics)? Bev / other female listers, I'd be interested in your opinions too. Thanks, Tim On Sep 22, 2014, at 5:31 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Don't just send your lady to sailing lessons. Send her to a week long ladies only sailing class. It's a LOT different than taking lessons with a coed group. She will not just get sailing lessons, she will get emotional support, counselling, share experiences with other women, etc. Chances are it will be a much more positive experience for her. I've had a couple lady friends do it and they absolutely swear it's the only way to learn sailing. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Mon, Sep 22, 2014 at 4:03 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I'll let you guys know how the lessons help.. Racing did not help, she clammed-up even worse for fear that she'd screw something up. Even if on that particular race, everything that could be screwed-up was already taken care of so no one really cared. No amount of screwing-up was going to make our last place any worse. :-) Giving her the helm.. Been there done that, same result. Talking to other wifes.. It depends, At the club parties it runs the gammut from enthusiastic sailor ladies to killjoys that never come out sailing, just show up for parties.. When she runs into the lather all they say is too hot, too cold, too windy, too sunny, too humid, etc, etc. then I'm loosing ground. I'm banking on the lessons.. Truth to be told, if you're that much not into the boating thing, just sitting around on a boat is not much more fun than sitting around anywhere else.. Especially given the fact that on the lake, when it's (Really) windy, it's usually not very sunny, often a bit coldish, so you have to look at the big picture to appreciate what's going on. On the plus she's fairly athletic so maybe once she told what's what by someone else and understands better what's going on she'll get into the workout / physical side of it and get a little rush that way... I guess that's typical boat stuff: one more thing to figure out... -Francois 1990 34+ Take Five Lake Lanier, Georgia. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?
That's what I have done a couple of times. It works. I'll do it again this year. Gary - Original Message - From: David Knecht via CnC-List To: CnC CnC discussion list Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2014 9:46 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast removal for winter? Reading these posts, I am considering a compromise that I have not done before. I usually leave my mast up and do not do anything special with halyards. But it seems an easy compromise would be to attach the halyard shackles to some cheap nylon line and run them up until the shackle hits the sheave and leave them like that. That way most of the halyard is protected from the sun/snow/wind etc. but you don’t have to hassle with messenger lines and potentially losing a halyard. Thoughts? Dave On Sep 24, 2014, at 9:28 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Exactly my expierience Joe. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 CC 37+ Solomons, MD Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CP180 GPS
I made my little Garmin 5 somewhat portable. As the wiring I have is just for power (2 wires) I put some good quality plugs on the Garmin harness and a wire from the fuse panel. I used the type of plugs they use on model planes and boats. Now, I can unplug the unit in just a minute and move it wherever I want. I have a short wire with alligator clips for when I take it to another boat (take the mounting bracket along, attached to a piece of wood) - I use this for our J-80 race boat when we do the Annapolis to St. Michaels race for example and when I am picking up a boat for the CBMM boat donation program. I will also set up a lead in wire for my small power boat I got from the museum. I keep it on the binnacle most of the time, covered with the binnacle cover - so far (7 years) no problems. Gary - Original Message - From: Tim Goodyear via CnC-List To: Della Barba, Joe ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Wednesday, October 01, 2014 11:46 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List CP180 GPS I use an Edson arm (also costing more than your GPS) for a Garmin 5 plotter: http://www.edsonmarine.com/marinestore/index.php?main_page=product_infocPath=87_100products_id=430 Tim Mojito CC 35-3 On Wed, Oct 1, 2014 at 11:19 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I just got a Standard-Horizon CP180 GPS/chartplotter/fishfinder/radar from Fleabay for a good price. This is a 5 inch screen unit that is about 8”x5”. I am in a bit of a quandary on where to mount it. On the bulkhead at the forward end of the cockpit will make wiring easier and be fairly protected from the weather. I usually am in the forward cockpit underway with the autopilot remote. For tricky situations where I am at the helm I would love it to be mounted on the binnacle, but I am not sure if I like the idea of it being so exposed. Has anyone tried putting a navpod on a MK I? Does the MK I binnacle guard have the standard 12” spacing or something else? I already have a PC plotter setup that I like, but that draws about 36 watts. This unit should be more like 6 watts and can support a radar if I want to add the antenna. If I cable it right I can send waypoints back and forth from the PC to the plotter. Only downside so far is I need a $170 chart chip for a $140 plotter to get any decent level of detail L Joe Della Barba Coquina CC 35 MK I ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List boat batteries
I use LiPo's - are you thinking of them? I've not heard of LiPb's. LiPo's are very fussy. Must use a special charger which does a controlled discharge and then equalizes the cells - and you cannot discharge them beyond a certain point - they die. Gary - Original Message - From: Michael Brown via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Wednesday, October 01, 2014 4:00 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List boat batteries Any experience with Lithium-Iron batteries? I have a Costco group 31 deep cycle that I use for house and starting the Atomic 4. In reserve is a group 24 AGM that is intended to only be used to start the engine if the house battery dies or in an emergency to get home. I have considered saving some weight by making the AGM the house battery and keeping a LiPB battery as the backup. http://shoraipower.com/lfx36l3-bs12-p130 550 cranking amps, 36 amp hour equivalent, very slow self discharge rate and only 5 lbs. With the racing requirements of sealed batteries for any new units ( older ones are grandfathered ) I will be into a Gel or AGM at a minimum. For my use a single 70 AH house is all I need, and a suitable reserve for safety does need to be another 80 lb AGM. Also, in light use the LiPb may last a long time. Michael Brown Windburn CC 30-1 -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Stus list backstay adjuster
Getting all these messages - I had to reply. I had a nearly new 4:1 rope vang setup from Garhauer and got greedy and went for the spring loaded one - what to do with the old one? Put it on the split backstay on my 30 - used a couple of the old wire blocks I had replaced when I went to all rope halyards - tied them together for the backstay, hooked up the vang to an eye bolt (through the backstay casting) and - boom - a split backstay adjuster. Could go for more purchase, but it seems to tighten up the forestay which is all I can expect on a 30's mast - telephone pole! My total outlay was the cost of the eye bolt and two shackles to hook the blocks together. It is right next to the wheel, so the skipper or nearby jib trimmer can adjust. Gary - Original Message - From: Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Thursday, October 09, 2014 12:11 AM Subject: Stus-List Stus list backstay adjuster The split backstay is a tried and true, very effective solution. We have an OEM Split backstay on our 36 ft 34+ and it has no problem leaning back the 52ft double spreader telephone pole of a masthead rig we have. We checked it and it moves the mast head a good 4-6 inches. The setup has 2 triple blocks if I remember correctly. Before I started racing and really using it I was considering upgrading to a hydraulic setup. My very experienced rigger said: Go racing with it then tell me you need to spend 1700-1900 bucks replacing this perfectly functional and effective setup.. He was right. It is not quite as sexy looking as a hydraulic setup and is perhaps a little slower to tighten but it is very positive and works like a charm. Power is not an issue. In fact that's about the only line that never requires a winch on the whole boat.. As for the Chainplates you'd need to install, they are about 3 wide and 8 long backing plates on U bolts.. That's nothing expensive or complicated Outside of replacing blocks every 20-25 years for 2-3 hundred bucks (Mine are about due) and the occasional line replacement.. It's pretty much maintenance free and deadbolt reliable.. You bet it'd be just dandy on a 33 footer.. If you are interested, PM me I'll send you photos of the setup when I go to the boat next time. Best Regards, Francois 1990 34+ Take Five Lake Lanier, Georgia Sent from IBM Notes Traveler -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 34 Spray Apron
Mine is just thin. Gary - Original Message - From: OldSteveH via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2014 4:53 PM Subject: Stus-List CC 34 Spray Apron Does anyone know if the spray apron has balsa core? Mine feels soft, but am unsure if it just feels soft because its thin. I don't want to remove it if that's all it is. Thanks Steve Hood S/V Diamond Girl CC 34 Lions Head ON ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List sailing this weekend
Second Frostbite of the season on Saturday - on the lower Miles River. We're wimps... Gary - Original Message - From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List To: Della Barba, Joe ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Thursday, October 16, 2014 10:48 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List sailing this weekend Possible day sail Saturday, then frostbiting out of West River Sunday. Enjoy Charm City! Joel On Thu, Oct 16, 2014 at 10:20 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Anyone headed out? It looks like we’ll have frontal passage here Saturday night, so the plan is to go to Baltimore and then sail home with 15 knots on the stern Sunday. We were going to go to Saint Michaels, but the forecast is uphill both ways and I don’t trust Kent Narrows with a strong northerly. Joe Della Barba Coquina CC 35 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Mast Self-Climbers?
I followed a similar thread on this list a number of years ago. I built a climbing harness from rock climbing equipment. It worked pretty good going up, but was a bit of a pain coming down. If someone wants it, it is available for the shipping - it is two carabineers and some strapping. I have decided to let the boat yard with its crane and the little car the mechanic rides in do my mast top work from now on - I just don't need to work that hard (and the boat partner - ex admiral pays her half). Gary (Maryland) gnylan...@atlanticbb.net - Original Message - From: David Knecht via CnC-List To: Josh Muckley ; CnC CnC discussion list Cc: Travis Sent: Thursday, October 16, 2014 8:54 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast Self-Climbers? Mack Sails has one I am thinking of getting. It is shown in the installation video for their Mackpack (which I am getting). They don’t advertise them, but I was told they do make them up and sell them for people. You can see it in use about 4.5 minutes in to the video. I am sure it would take me a lot longer to go up, but it looks easy to use. Still don’t know the cost (are you listening, Travis?) Dave https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W3RT3iajT-Elist=FLzBlwDs4NZ1W1NImTfRSC-w On Oct 16, 2014, at 8:39 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Here's a couple of links to spring off of for ascender climbing. The foot ascenders look promissing. A waste strap/line can also be passed around the mast and both ends attached to the harness (one end on a carabiner for fast passing of obstructions). This is added safety to prevent accidentally twisting upside down and you slipping out of the harness or chair. This is one reason I prefer a harness. https://www.google.com/search?q=ascender+climbingoq=ascender http://www.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ascender_(climbing) http://youtube.com/watch?v=2LK20hvHQyA http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/ascender-safety-101 Josh On Oct 16, 2014 7:58 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Listers, Now that the Enterprise is up for the winter, I’m starting my list of projects -- One of which is some mast work. Has anyone on the list ever rigged their own mast self-climber, and, if so, what did you use. There’s an article about it in the latest issue of Practical Sailor, so it’s on my mind. And no, the transporter can’t materialize me at the top of the mast. All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Mast Self-Climbers?
Sorry, I used the wrong terminology - 'ascenders' - and I got mine from REI. Gary - Original Message - From: Neil Gallagher via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Thursday, October 16, 2014 11:40 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast Self-Climbers? I just made such an arrangement similar to what Josh described. Bought a left and right hand ascender, and put a toe loop on each. Used one halyard to pull up a line with a knot in the middle to the top of the mast, and tied off the lower end of each part, tightly, at the deck. Then put one ascender/toe loop on each part of the line. Took a second halyard to a bosun's chair, with a short loop to a climbing harness as a safety. Was then easy to use both hands and feet to pull up on the ascenders/foot loops, while my wife took the slack up on the chair halyard using a winch. Then I could sit back on the chair while I slid the ascenders/toe loops higher on the two parts, and repeat. The nice part was that coming down, I took the ascenders off and she just payed out the chair on the winch, and the really nice part was that I could get my head above the top of mast by standing on the toe loops. One worthwhile addition was to put a small carabiner in each toe loop around the side lines, keeps the toe loops under the ascenders. I'm going to try this weekend to climb without the chair, it would mean alternately lifting one side at a time, and will still want the second line a a safety/belay to the harness. The price was about $70 each for the ascenders (new at REI), $60 for the harness and about $30 for the toe loops. Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 10/16/2014 8:17 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote: The ATN top climmer has worked pretty well for me but I would not buy one. The TC is simply two Gibbs ascenders attached custom bosun's chair and 60' or 70' of 1/2 rope. They arrangement of the ascenders is such that the chair is attached to the top on and a foot strap is attached to the bottom one. Standing up on the foot straps allows you to raise the upper ascender which brings the chair tight to your butt. Sit down in the chair and now you can bend your knees to raise the lower ascender. You inchworm your way up the rope. The rope that was tied to the mast collar on deck and winched taught to the top of the mast. One could safely use a halyard pull the rope tight. Tight is key. No stretch rope is also key. I would look to MAKE a similar system but using rock climbing ascenders (gibbs or otherwise). I would also use a rock climbing harness as a primary and maybe take a comfortable bosun's chair of choice to the top IF I was going to be there for more than 10 min. The ascenders cost $30-50. Rope $50-70. Harness $50-100. Gear can be found at EMS.com or instore. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 CC 37+ Solomons, MD On Oct 16, 2014 7:58 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Listers, Now that the Enterprise is up for the winter, I'm starting my list of projects -- One of which is some mast work. Has anyone on the list ever rigged their own mast self-climber, and, if so, what did you use. There's an article about it in the latest issue of Practical Sailor, so it's on my mind. And no, the transporter can't materialize me at the top of the mast. All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List oldest sail contest
You win. Mine is a 1980, still feels new, but as you know, we don't use working jibs much around here. Gary St. Michaels - Original Message - From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2014 7:35 AM Subject: Stus-List oldest sail contest I am going to take the working jib down to the boat in case we get a honking 25 knot day so I can get a good beat in and it occurred to me that the jib came from CC when the boat was new in 1973. Does anyone have an older sail than that? Joe Della Barba Coquina CC 35 MK I -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Running Lights Elf
Elf has been completely restored and is currently located at the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum in St. Michaels, Maryland. She is gorgeous! Her owner set up a foundation to keep her going and that she does she is the motivation for a Mid May traditional boat race across the Bay from Annapolis. The tradition part is the skipper starts on land and rows out to the boat, sails across the Bay, and then rows to the finish area at CBMM. Cute! Gary - Original Message - From: Bill Bina via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Saturday, November 01, 2014 2:58 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Running Lights Elf Elf is very much around. A few years ago, I escorted her through dense fog on her way to Mystic Seaport for the wooden boat show because I had RADAR and she did not. I am not aware of the incident you mention, but we would have to know the details to draw any conclusions about WHY she might have lost the case. A kerosene lantern used as an anchor light is perfectly legal (annex 1 section 11 of international colregs) unless there is something more to the story. I can tell you that seeing all of Elf in the dark, regardless of anchor light, would be a challenge. She is about 35 feet on deck, but the boom hangs far over the stern, and she has a VERY long bowsprit. LOD is about 35 feet, and LOA is... about 70 feet! http://www.cyrg.org/images/graphics/ELFmorph-2.gif Bill Bina On 11/1/2014 1:25 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List wrote: No one cares until someone gets hurt. I recall a boat built in the 1800s with no electrical system being rammed at night while anchored. The powerboat skipper that hit them sued them for using a kerosene anchor light and IIRC the wood boat lost L I think the boats name is Elf and she is still around. Joe Della Barba j...@dellabarba.com Coquina -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Chunk of shaped lead in the bilge?
I go with the addition of weight to make a one-design target. Not sure why on a 29, but On a non CC boat I raced on (one of the earlier ones of that make built) there was 180 pounds of lead in the aft portion - to make the minimum - because the later boats were built differently and weighed more. And the story of having weight added and losing seconds and then taking it out and losing more - a friend had an Andrews 26 with an inboard. It died, they removed it and replaced it with an outboard - thus losing the prop, strut, heavy motor, shaft, etc. And got a 3 second help in the PHRF department! Go figure! Gary - Original Message - From: Dennis C. via CnC-List To: tim ; CnClist Sent: Wednesday, November 05, 2014 7:59 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Chunk of shaped lead in the bilge? PHRF cheat weight. Buddy of mine found about 150# of lead hidden under the floor of his boat after he bought it. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Wed, Nov 5, 2014 at 6:46 PM, tim via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Hi, I am cleaning out my bilge, and tightening the keel bolts. In doing the cleanout, I found a chuck of shaped lead (probably 20#) towards the front of the bilge area. It is not attached to anything. It is angled to fit in the bilge. Just curious if anyone may know the purpose of the chunk? Thanks for your thoughts. Tim W. 1976 29’ Mk1 s/v Sly Fox ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Lions and tigers and bears, Oh MyWas Approved LED bulbs
Some friends who have done multiple Newport-Bermuda races have your last configuration. They say it increases visibility. Gary - Original Message - From: Rick Brass via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: 'Ronald B. Frerker' rbfrer...@yahoo.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Saturday, November 08, 2014 1:22 PM Subject: Stus-List Lions and tigers and bears, Oh MyWas Approved LED bulbs Yes. The COLREGS specify 12m (39.4') as the upper limit for using an all-around light on a power boat. I suppose that makes sense because for a boat of 12 meters or more, there is a difference in the required visibility of the stern light and masthead light, vs the all-around white light used for anchor, aground, and various other light patterns. To meet those visibility requirement, the all-around white light you use for anchoring would need to be one designed for a boat over 50 meters. But remember, if you use your all-around white light when motoring, you need a way to turn off the stern light that you need to show when sailing. With all the discussion about LEDs and running lights and steaming lights and tri-color lights (Oh My!), it occurs to me that one configuration that might be attractive to several folks on the list has not been mentioned. Rule 25A specifies sidelights and a stern light when sailing, and 25B species a tri-color at the top of the mast in place of the deck level lights for sailboats under 20 meters. But rule 25C allows a red all-around light over a green all-around light at the top of the mast IN ADDITION TO the deck level running lights for a sailboat of any length. Hence the mnemonic Red over Green, I'm a sailing machine. This configuration seems to be a solution which provides visibility at longer range when near coastal or in sloppy waves, but still keeps lights down low where those on small power boats are more apt to notice them. Rick Brass Washington, NC -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List Sent: Friday, November 07, 2014 3:13 PM To: Edd Schillay; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Running Lights Approved LED bulbs He mentions 26ft as a cutoff in his narrative, but it's 12m in the literature. I'm presuming the 12m is correct for the single all around white light for motoring. Ron Wild Cheri ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Bilge pump parts for C C 30-1
On my 30-1 (1980), it is a Gusher. But, when I took it apart I couldn't get one of the flaps out - totally frozen in place. Impact screwdriver, heat, chemicals, leverage, no go. So, I replaced it. Not cheap, but you only have to buy the main portion, not the cover or handle. I got mine from West, Defender was nearly the same price and I didn't have to pay shipping. Gary Penniless - Original Message - From: Nate Flesness via CnC-List To: Ronald B. Frerker ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Monday, November 17, 2014 11:38 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge pump parts for C C 30-1 Defender Marine has rebuild kits for several Whale Gusher models - don't know what our model is (been going to look one of these years) or what fits. Nate Sarah Jean 1980 30-1 on the cold hard in the November snow :-( Siskiwit Bay Marina Lake Superior On Mon, Nov 17, 2014 at 9:31 AM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: On the subject of bilge pumps, mine is not working. It's the original pump located on the cockpit floor. I suspect the diaphram is ruptured. I'm an hour from the boat and freezing; I believe it's a Whale gusher??? Any idea where parts can be found? Ron Wild Cheri STL ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List New Sailor Intro and Questions
Having a slightly bigger CC, I would think if you supported the boom at the aft end and used a multi-part lift, the engine would come out easily. I would try to spread the load on the boom - use about three lines (spread over about three to four feet) from it to the lifting come-along or whatever you plan on using for the hoist. I have a neighbor with a 26 with an outboard, and you are wise to keep to the Yanmar unless it is too far gone to repair. The boat looks crappy and as the hull tapers up, when you go through waves, it may be out of the water more than you would like. The handrails are removable, some are attached through similar rails in the cabin, some have screws or bolts accessed through little caps in the cabin ceiling. The consensus of this group is that butyl is a great sealant. Some folks have been ambitious and cut tapers in the rail bases to use 'o' rings. Make sure you have the hole area dry and sealed. Good luck. If you have specific questions, I can probably get aboard my neighbor's boat and look. Gary - Original Message - From: Dan via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2014 9:47 AM Subject: Stus-List New Sailor Intro and Questions I’m relatively new to sailing boats though I have been to a school using 14’ Holders, then 21’ day sailors, wind surfing (lake boards) and 30+ years of hang gliding. I currently own 2 sailboats, a 1976 23’ Ericson and a 1977 26’ CC (my favorite). I’ve owned the Ericson about a year and the CC 4 months. The CC is in excellent shape, has all the goodies and more sails than I know what to do with right now. The Yanmar will come out this winter (working on how to remove) so I can overhaul; it was overheating when I bought the vessel, got a very good deal on the boat. I toyed with the idea of hanging a 15HP Yamaha on the stern but would rather not drill holes in her plus I have all the maintenance manuals for the Yanmar and I’m a mechanic. Sorry babbling. Sailing the CC @ 30 miles from her old mooring to new digs was a blast, she sails easily and I can’t wait to get her out this coming spring. I’ll sail the Ericson over the winter here (Pacific Northwest) while I work on the Yanmar. I do have a couple questions if I may: a.. I have a small water leak on both the port and starboard sides aft are of the cabin, suspect coming from the rails that run the length of the boat - I know there is a name for them but it escapes me. I’m wondering if I can just re-seal the length of the rails until spring, removing them at this point and replacing the seals isn’t an option at this point. What sealant would work best? b.. Can I use the boom (protected of course) to winch the engine - weight under 200 lbs during the removal? I can’t imagine trying to lift it out using just manpower - is there a “standard” for removing engines? My idea is to use the boom protected of course and maybe set it up so the load is distributed over a wide area and a winch. I don’t want to damage the boom but don’t know any other way of getting the engine out. Thanks for reading my dribble.. looking forward to learning all about sailing the CC and eventually moving up to a 30+ foot boat, buy that is way down the road. Regards, Dan Brownsville Marina, Bremerton, WA -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List New Sailor Intro and Questions
A relatively easy way to check further about your engine - pull the cylinder head. My 2QM15 had a crack between one of the valve seats and the water passage. Replacing the head was not cheap, but a lot easier than pulling and still only having to replace the head. Once the head is off you can check the cylinders and whatever else you may think may be wrong. Gary - Original Message - From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List To: CC List ; Dennis C. Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2014 2:21 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List New Sailor Intro and Questions To add on to Dennis's comment about exploring the overheating while keeping the engine onboard. I had a mechinist who was very familiar with Yanmar tell me that there was very little reason to ever pull a Yanmar. According to him the bearings are significantly over built. So, assuming you keep up with the oil level and changes, a bottom job is probably not ever going to be needed. Barring a cracked block or blown piston the only other thing that you might need to pull the engine for is stuck rings. I've had good luck getting rings unstuck twice now without having to disassemble the engine. So have a blast working the top end as much as tou like. You'll probably also find that there are a bunch of interferences that would have made getting the engine out a very big job. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 CC 37+ Solomons, MD On Nov 22, 2014 9:53 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Welcome, Dan First, the leaks on the toe rails. They should currently be sealed with butyl rubber. You can tighten the fasteners a bit. Have someone hold from above and tighten from below. Do NOT overtighten or you'll squeeze the butyl out. I don't worry too much about toe rail leaks but if the above procedure doesn't completely stop leakage, try multiple applications of Captain Tolleys Creeping Crack Cure. Just run beads down the inboard edge of the toe rail/deck joint. Eventually it will seal most leakage. As for the engine removal, you can use the boom but not for lifting. Use your main halyard if it's in good condition to support the weight. Rig a purchase from the boom end to the halyard to haul in/out along the boom. Tie the halyard to the boom loosely with a loop, unfasten the engine mounts from the support rail, lift engine slightly, slide it out of the compartment then lift clear and swing to pier using purchase to move it outboard. Having said that, I'd thoroughly explore the overheating issue before pulling the engine. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Nov 22, 2014 6:48 AM, Dan via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I'm relatively new to sailing boats though I have been to a school using 14' Holders, then 21' day sailors, wind surfing (lake boards) and 30+ years of hang gliding. I currently own 2 sailboats, a 1976 23' Ericson and a 1977 26' CC (my favorite). I've owned the Ericson about a year and the CC 4 months. The CC is in excellent shape, has all the goodies and more sails than I know what to do with right now. The Yanmar will come out this winter (working on how to remove) so I can overhaul; it was overheating when I bought the vessel, got a very good deal on the boat. I toyed with the idea of hanging a 15HP Yamaha on the stern but would rather not drill holes in her plus I have all the maintenance manuals for the Yanmar and I'm a mechanic. Sorry babbling. Sailing the CC @ 30 miles from her old mooring to new digs was a blast, she sails easily and I can't wait to get her out this coming spring. I'll sail the Ericson over the winter here (Pacific Northwest) while I work on the Yanmar. I do have a couple questions if I may: a.. I have a small water leak on both the port and starboard sides aft are of the cabin, suspect coming from the rails that run the length of the boat - I know there is a name for them but it escapes me. I'm wondering if I can just re-seal the length of the rails until spring, removing them at this point and replacing the seals isn't an option at this point. What sealant would work best? b.. Can I use the boom (protected of course) to winch the engine - weight under 200 lbs during the removal? I can't imagine trying to lift it out using just manpower - is there a standard for removing engines? My idea is to use the boom protected of course and maybe set it up so the load is distributed over a wide area and a winch. I don't want to damage the boom but don't know any other way of getting the engine out. Thanks for reading my dribble.. looking forward to learning all about sailing the CC and eventually moving up to a 30+ foot boat, buy that is way down the road. Regards, Dan Brownsville Marina, Bremerton, WA ___ This List is provided by the CC
Re: Stus-List Folding prop
I have had a Flex for about 10 years now. I think yours needs cleaning. Mine opens all the time without fail, so if yours is opening at the dock and not when under way, the only 'fix' I can think of is more throttle, or the reverse/forward trick, because something is interfering with the gears. The only other problem I could imagine is that the prop is moving on the shaft and when it is sitting (dock) it is at a position where the prop blade/gear mechanism is working OK, but it moves when underway and slides a little backward causing the shaft to interfere with the opening. But, that seems counterintuitive - if the prop is moving backward from the motion through the water, it should be moving away from the shaft. If you are in the water, you may want to have a diver check that out - if you are out, you can do it yourself. I've been delighted with mine. Gary 30-1 - Original Message - From: Bruno Lachance via CnC-List To: Danny Haughey ; mike.h...@impgroup.com ; bria...@rochester.rr.com ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Thursday, November 27, 2014 10:09 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Folding prop I have the 3 blades flexofold and no problem sor far. But after tree years i decided to remove the blades to clean the pins, etc... and put a fair amount of grease and remount, it's smooth as new. I did greased the gears as i could every launch but you can't grease the pins without disasembling and they get pretty dry adding friction, maybe whorst in salt water. you may alos have something stuck on the bumber like a barnacle or other crap preventing the blade to open fully. Overall i'm an happy customer and love my flexofold. Bruno 33mkII 87 Becassine -- Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2014 09:37:32 -0500 To: mike.h...@impgroup.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com; bria...@rochester.rr.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Folding prop From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com That was going to be my suggestion. I would just add, give it some throttle in reverse and then you have to pop in forward. It is very hard on the dive train but, it may be what's necessary for that prop. That was how I had to open the prop on Lolita. I eventually went with a 3 blade fixed prop. Danny From my Android phone Original message From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com Date: 11/27/2014 8:07 AM (GMT-05:00) To: Brian Donovan bria...@rochester.rr.com,cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Folding prop Reverse and then fwd? From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Brian Donovan via CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com] Sent: November 26, 2014 9:52 PM To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Folding prop This was my first season with Celtic Fire a C C 35' MK III sailing on Lake Ontario. I have a folding prop Prop (Flexofold 2 blade 16 R). That does not open up all the way when the boat is moving, when this happens it creates a lot of vibration. This problem does not happen when I leave the dock and start from a standing still. I wonder if anyone else has experienced a similar problem and found a solution. Cheers, Brian Brian Donovan 112 Frisbee Hill Rd. Hilton NY 14468 585 313 1940 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 30 never sailed
Very Interesting. a bunch of winches, deck organizers, line locks, but no rudder? Prop? and the other stuff mentioned - Mast and Boom? You would need a rather decent donor boat. Doesn't say anything about an engine - there's a prop shaft with a zinc on it - but no prop? You really think it is new, or a salvage job? Gary - Original Message - From: Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2014 2:27 PM Subject: Stus-List CC 30 never sailed Interesting, If already have one or could find a donor boat cheap you build very your own spanking brand new CC 30 for peanuts. Heck of a project. Regards -Francois Rivard 1990 34+ Take Five Lake Lanier, Georgia -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Annapolis/Newport race
There's some good boats - Flyer, the Cal 40, is parked about 50 feet from mine. he was second in the Newport to Bermuda race this year - beaten by Aceta, which is the Bermuda 40, also a Chesapeake boat. Both boats are mid-'60's oldies but goodies (Flyer is pretty original - Aceta is probably the most optimized B-40 in the world - carbon abounds Gary St. Michaels - Original Message - From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Tuesday, December 16, 2014 10:58 AM Subject: Stus-List Annapolis/Newport race All, There are 50 boats entered for the race this year, but only 4 CCs, my 35, a 38, 39 and 110. Complete list is here: http://www.yachtscoring.com/event_scratch_sheet.cfm?eID=1121 The oldest boat appears to be a Cal 40. The newest a Gunboat 55, the longest and probably most expensive, a Swan 80. Block Island Race Week follows, so you can do it all! Sign up and join us! -- Joel 301 541 8551 -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Dribble (losing glasses)
I'll make it sailing related. being nearsighted as well, I have 'split vision' contacts. One for reading (almost) and the other for distance. But, this screws up sighting the distance to marks, because the perspective is a bit off. But, as you 'young 'uns' get a little older, the distance problem gets a bit better and the reading problem gets worse, so both of my lenses are getting a bit weaker which is helping the perspective problem, however, my reading problem is getting a bit worse. I dread the day when I won't be able to read the chart or chartplotter without reading glasses. Then, I may have to rethink this whole deal. In the meantime, I can get by with 'readers' from the store and 'regular' sunglasses. So, the losing problem is less costly (as I dump the sunglasses every so often into the drink or break them, and lose so many readers that I buy them in bulk). One on the workbench in the shop, one at my desk, one at the model boatbuilding bench in the basement and one by the TV, so I can read the listings and the fine print in the newspaper. Gary - on the hard in Maryland - Original Message - From: Chuck S via CnC-List To: Marek Dziedzic ; CNC boat owners, cnc-list Sent: Saturday, December 20, 2014 12:41 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Dribble (losing glasses) Totally relate. I'm 60 and near sighted. But I have to take my distance only glasses off to see close up. This works great for computer work, or print reading. I work as an HVAC Mechanic at a school and often loose the glasses at the end of the day. I usually find them above the ceiling tile or on a roll of prints. Today I hooked them in the neck of my uniform shirt, (no pocket) and they fell down inside the shirt to my waist. Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md -- From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: D Harben sailadventu...@rogers.com, cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Saturday, December 20, 2014 12:07:12 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Dribble The only sure way is to have a full set in every potential place where you may need them. This does not mean that the pair you actually need is in the exact time and place where you expect it to be, but at least you have a fighting chance. Marek From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of D Harben via CnC-List Sent: Friday, December 19, 2014 10:43 PM To: Jim Watts; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Dribble ... Only 1 pair? Ha! Progressive trifocals, everyday Progressive trifocals, sailing Reading Computer, longer focal length then reading Distance for TV and movie theatre Where they are at time and place is never where I need them! On Dec 19, 2014, at 10:30 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I hesitate to ask why your glasses were in the trash...at least you don't have to futz with a joker valve in the process. Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 19 December 2014 at 18:05, Wally Bryant via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Yup, before you throw the trash out, make sure you know where your glasses are. This is just a little warmup for New Years Eve. Best wishes for the holidays, Wal -- s/v Stella Blue www.wbryant.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at:
Re: Stus-List Boat stands and draining deck water while on thestands.
One better: lay a length (two feet?) of line (3/8 or so) in the low spot and hang about a foot of it through one of the toe rail holes and over the side. It will wick the water out even better than a sponge. Gary - Original Message - From: Jim Watts via CnC-List To: Bill Bina - gmail ; 1 CnC List Sent: Monday, December 22, 2014 12:27 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat stands and draining deck water while on thestands. Cram a small sponge through the toerail where the water pools, it will wick it overboard pretty quickly and you won't be drilling a bunch more holes in your boat. Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 22 December 2014 at 09:20, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Shedding of surface water on boats is a design element that is predicated on the boat rolling, rocking and pitching. When that movement stops, there are usually problems. In the days of wooden boats, being on land caused greatly accelerated deterioration. This is exactly why many people cover their boats with a frame and tarp while on the hard. Covered boats age much slower. Bill Bina On 12/22/2014 12:12 PM, Petar Horvatic via CnC-List wrote: Hi all, I have a question on boat stands and aft tilting of the boat while on the hard. I find water drainage on most CC designs to be horrible. I’ve tackled the issues many times but this one keeps coming back to haunt me. When the boat is in water, a while back I made drain holes at what appeared to be the lowest point on deck. So when boat is properly loaded and equipped, the deck drains pretty good. Well all that changes once the boat is out of the water as the yard props it so that everything is tilting aft. So now water collects about few feet further aft. Year after year this tilting changes based on how they setup the stands at the time of haulout. No matter what you do (I’ve drilled pilot holes in aluminum toerail), I always have submerged pulpit stanchions bases. For me these carry a significant load(solar panels, support the wind generator and 15HP outboard on pulpit mount) Well in the winter, ice works the base screws on stanchions and before you know it you get leaks and wet core. I would love to prop the aft stands and lower the forward ones so that the boats sits more level and the water collects where my drain holes are. Has anyone done this or will doing this disturb how the keel sits on the wooden blocks? My thought was to just prop the aft ones but then I realized that they all need to be adjusted slightly. Petar Horvatic Sundowner 76 CC 38MkII Newport, RI ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat
There's an outfit called Dri-Diver which makes a device like you described. I hope they are still around, because I need a new scrub pad. It is about 6 inches wide and 3 feet long. A scotch brite style pad hooks to a plastic (maybe 1/8 inch thick) backing strip which has half a dozen cylinders of floatation hooked to it (crosswise). All is attached to a plastic pipe handle with a bit of a bend in it. There used to be a lesser version with just a single floatation pad on the back, but after I wore that one out, I got the special model with the cylinders. The only downside is that you cannot reach the keel. I use it between diver trips. Gary - Original Message - From: Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2014 9:59 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat I made a rig that uses an outdoor broom with stiff bristles, and some flotation that screws onto the end of a boat hook. It makes bottom cleaning at a slip a short, and relatively easy job. I'm now on a mooring, and have to work my way around the boat, tying the dinghy to the railing as I go. It takes a little longer and a little more work, but it is still not that hard to do. I'm not a racer, so this method is more than adequate. I'm sure a diver would do a better job, since he can see what he is doing. I use the same rig to do my outboard rudder from the cockpit. Screwing the broom head directly to the boat hook does not work very well. In addition to the pool noodle floation, I also added a curved extension made from plumbing so that the broom head is offset from the boathook by about a foot. That clearance makes all the difference in reaching the center area of the hull without the boathook hitting the hull. I think I have some pictures of this thing on my home computer. If I can find them, I'll post them somewhere on the web. Bill Bina On 12/23/2014 9:33 AM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List wrote: Put a checkmark for me in the column of 50’ hose with regulator and a tank sitting on the dock. Works well without all the hassle of a BCD. Although I can’t really “stand” on the bottom cleaning the bottom is not a terribly strenuous activity. Saves much money from having a diver clean the bottom, especially if you race… Best, Dave Godwin 1982 CC 37 - Ronin Reedville - Chesapeake Bay Ronin’s Overdue Refit -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat
After a number of years using Hydrocoat and having the diver every two weeks (gently, it is ablative and soft) and having about a quarter of it gone by haulout (every fall), I switched to Hydrocoat SR two years ago. I didn't haul this past spring (no time) and had a diver as usual. By each second week, the boat was slow. (So says the ex-Admiral, who races it on Wednesdays). So, we changed to a diver who could do it weekly and where I could put it next to the J-80 which was being done weekly and get a deal. It seemed to work. We hauled last week. The paint is still all there! No bald spots, it looks like it was just put on, but I'm sure it has no anti-slime or any other anti-properties left. The J-80 has Vivid and is in the same shape. It also needed weekly treatments. So, at least I don't have to sand this year, just add another coat. Then we'll see. I'm assuming the SR is harder. And the last couple of years, the divers have complained that there is more build-up of junk on the bottoms, so maybe the salinity has changed a bit. Gary On the backwaters of the Chesapeake - Original Message - From: Jake Brodersen via CnC-List To: 'Dave Godwin' ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com ; 'Joel Aronson' Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2014 5:01 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat As long as the boat is fast Joel, that’s all that matters. Right? I dove on my boat yesterday. Water temp was 45F. After the initial chill, it wasn’t bad at all. My thin coating of VC Offshore is still working its magic. I will haul shortly anyway though. Jake Jake Brodersen “Midnight Mistress” CC 35 Mk-III Hampton VA From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave Godwin via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2014 1:31 PM To: Joel Aronson; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat Joel, Was she impressed enough to give you a discount? ;-) Cheers, Dave 1982 CC 37 - Ronin -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 26 Prop Zinc
If a diver is telling you to replace a prop which just has some build-up on it, replace the diver. Like this letter says, take it off and buff it out. I use emery cloth or sandpaper. Unless it is corroded to the point of falling apart, it can be cleaned forever. Gary - Original Message - From: Sam Salter via CnC-List To: CnC Sent: Wednesday, December 24, 2014 11:06 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 26 Prop Zinc My zincs are spherical with a 7/8 hole. Yours may have a different shaft size so check. They are available at any chandlery. If you have to replace the prop, this might be the time to upgrade to a folder. I recently replaced mine with a 2 blade Flexofold. Better speed under sail in light air, improved reverse thrust. Not cheap, but if you have to replace anyway, you're partway there anyway. My shaft is 7/8 with an SAE standard taper for the prop. sam :-) CC 26 Liquorice Ghost Lake Alberta From: Dan via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, December 24, 2014 8:17 AM To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com Reply To: Dan Subject: Stus-List CC 26 Prop Zinc Diver who cleaned the hull of my CC says I need to change out the zinc and replace the prop. The prop had buildup and while clean now has the residue that will enhance further growth. The since is just normal wear and need replacing. Anyone have any idea where to find both the prop and zinc? Merry Christmas Everyone!! Dan -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Dorade
I have purchased them from West Marine (oops, not Canada any more) and Bacon Sails in Annapolis Maryland. They are a standard item, I believe made by Nicro. Gary 30 #593 - Original Message - From: Peter Derviller via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Saturday, December 27, 2014 2:06 PM Subject: Stus-List Dorade Hello all: this is my first post on cnc-list. I carelessly knocked a vent overboard. Does anyone know of a source? I expect it was the original item that fits over a 3.25 spigot. Thanks. Peter '79 CC30 Oenone Vancouver BC. -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Bottom paint survey
I also was skeptical - they listed paints by manufacturer. So, Pettit has paint - about a dozen brands of all types, from ablative to hard as rocks. So, what does it mean that Pettit has an X rating? Gary - Original Message - From: Dennis C. via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com ; joel. aronson Sent: Friday, January 02, 2015 10:07 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint survey Wonder how many respondents have tried more than one paint? Surveys are so subjective. It's like GEICO advertising a 97% satisfaction rating. Is that current policyholders? Google GEICO complaints and see what that brings up. :) I've used Micron CSC and Baltoplate on Touche' and like both. Balto is faster; CSC required less maintenance. Not surprising because that's their primary attributes, slipperyness or sluffing. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Jan 2, 2015 10:16 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Jamestown Distributors did a customer survey of bottom paints: http://totalboatshow.com/wordpress/2014/11/10/bottom-paint-survey-results/ -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album. Please donate to the CC Photo Album to keep this list free for all subscribers. Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album. Please donate to the CC Photo Album to keep this list free for all subscribers. Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album. Please donate to the CC Photo Album to keep this list free for all subscribers. Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Tuning a CC 30 Mark 1
This may have been answered, but I didn't see it. The hooks are about a foot long, flat pieces of stainless about an inch wide and 1/8 inch thick with a hook at the top end. They bolt to each side of the mast just under the cabin roof. There are two bolts which go through the hooks from one side of the mast to the other. Then they go up through the mast partners and hook onto the ring which is on top of the deck around the partners. They are there to hold the cabin roof down when you are trying to pull it up with halyards and the blocks which are attached to the ring. Gary - Original Message - From: Curtis via CnC-List To: Jim Watts ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2015 10:20 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Tuning a CC 30 Mark 1 What hooks are they on my CC30 1? if so where? On Sun, Jan 25, 2015 at 9:11 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Surprise! You can find a lot of good info on the legendary PhotoAlbum. http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/masttuning/tuning.htm Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 25 January 2015 at 17:45, Michael Crombie via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Yes, those two innocent little hooks counter the upward pull of the halyards so that there is no net force lifting up on the deck! I just realized that myself this year. Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network. Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell. -Original Message- From: Alan Lombard via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sender: CnC-List cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2015 18:01:52 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Reply-To: Alan Lombard alan.lomb...@sympatico.ca, cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Tuning a CC 30 Mark 1 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Best regards, Curtis McDaniel, CC 30-MK1 East Coast Lady Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover. -Mark Twain cpt.b...@gmail.com __/) . -- ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC24
The only suggestion I would have is to consider genoa tracks. The reason is our CC's are rather 'fat' boats and sheeting the genoa to the toe rail gives us a wider than optimum sheeting angle for the genoa. When I got my 30-1, I (had been to a couple of seminars and was loaded?? with knowledge) I calculated the sheeting angle for the genoa was about 12-13 degrees and my impressive knowledge suggested it should be around 10-11. Thus, tracks. This gives you the opportunity to unhook the genoa and run it back to the rail when you want the best angle for reaching, thus increasing the tasks you can get your faithful crew to do. If you are cruising and are not dedicated to the highest possible pointing angle, then disregard the above. If not, then drill a bunch of leaky holes in your deck and have the drips come down inside... Gary - Original Message - From: Ed Dooley via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2015 3:54 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List CC24 My shins agree with the last comment. I have a CC24, but don't know what might be different from the original. Halyards to winches on the cabin top at the cockpit, no genoa track (but simple to adjust for whatever foresail I choose with blocks clipped in to 2 or so increments in the aluminum toe-rail. One improvement (I don't think they were original, but who knows?) are the Barient self-tailing winches for the main sheets (nice improvement!). Teak grab rail on the cabin, split back stay with adjuster, home-made boom vang (not well thought out by previous owner). From the brochures on Stu's site http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ it looks like, as Chris said, the early models had halyards to mast base, not so on later models where they go to winches on the cabin top, at the cockpit. Ed From: Marek Dziedzic dziedzi...@hotmail.com Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2015 15:21:48 -0500 To: 'Hoyt, Mike' mike.h...@impgroup.com, cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List CC24 One of the big improvements was the change from the main sheeting to the cabin top (without the traveller) to a traveller in the cockpit. That change improved dramatically trimming of the main, even if some complained that the traveller was getting in the way of getting into the companion way. There was a good picture on the boat for sail in BC (?) just a week or so ago. Marek (ex. CC 24 Fennel) From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List Sent: February-04-15 14:28 To: chris hulett; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List CC24 Did you take pictures prior to stripping off the hardware? Some of the added hardware may be a big improvement on the original as many of the older CCs came with hayards led to mast base, no boom vang, no backstay adjuster, no genoa tracks etc and many boats have been upgraded to run lines to cockpit and added very necessary sail and rig trim adjustments Mike From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of chris hulett via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2015 3:20 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List CC24 I have a CC24 that I recently purchased and it needs a lot of work.I have striped everything off of the deck and in the process of fixing all the fiberglass , when I've finished I will start installing all the deck hardware and lines, it looks like over the years the boat owners have added extra hardware . I'm wanting to get this boat back to original hardwsre and lines , so if anyone has pictures of how a CC 24 should rig I wold live to see them. -- ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Folding/feathering Props
Wow! That is a serious penalty. It is three to six around here. Three if in an aperture and six if out in the open. Andthe Flex-o-fold is a geared prop so the blades open together and close together. I have not heard of any of them not opening, unless they have been sitting around so long that they are encrusted with junk/barnacles so bad that they wouldn't work even if they were fixed. I deliver boats for our museum's donation program and have run into a couple which were so dirty that the prop was just a blob of crud - no thrust. Didn't make a difference if it was folding (they weren't) or not. Gary - Original Message - From: D.J. Platt via CnC-List To: Alan Lombard ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Monday, February 02, 2015 10:35 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Folding/feathering Props Towed in a few boats with props not opening from our club. If you race the current penalty is 12 seconds per mile. Don't care for them myself. From: Alan Lombard via CnC-List Sent: Saturday, January 31, 2015 4:10 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Folding/feathering Props Hello Gary, I too have a CC 30 and am debating either a Gori or a FlexoFold. Do you remember what size Flexofold you have, and can you comment if it seems the right size. The recommendation Flexofold have made to me is 2-blade 15x11R. Thanks, Alan -- ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC24
It is a barber hauler, but you have to have something to attach it to that
is closer to the cabin, thus a hole or ring, or something.
Gary
- Original Message -
From: Leslie Paal via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: Ed Dooley edoo...@madriver.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2015 2:56 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List CC24
You can always use an extra line to narrow the sheeting angle (the name
escapes me at the moment).
Leslie
was Navigo 2 (CC25)
On Wed, 2/4/15, Ed Dooley via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
Subject: Re: Stus-List CC24
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Wednesday, February 4, 2015, 1:44 PM
Good
point. I'm a cruiser, but when my friend pulls up next
to me egging me on to race, it would be nice to
haveone more edge in my
favor.Ed
From: Gary Nylander gnylan...@atlanticbb.net
Date:
Wed, 4 Feb 2015 16:22:54 -0500
To: Ed Dooley edoo...@madriver.com,
cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject:
Re: Stus-List CC24
The only suggestion I would have is to
consider
genoa tracks. The reason is our CC's are rather
'fat' boats and sheeting
the genoa to the toe rail gives us a wider than optimum
sheeting angle for the
genoa. When I got my 30-1, I (had been to a couple of
seminars and was loaded??
with knowledge) I calculated the sheeting angle for the
genoa was about
12-13 degrees and my impressive knowledge suggested it
should be around 10-11.
Thus, tracks. This gives you the opportunity to unhook the
genoa and run it back
to the rail when you want the best angle for reaching, thus
increasing the tasks
you can get your faithful crew to do. If you are cruising and are not
dedicated to
the
highest possible pointing angle, then disregard the above.
If not, then drill a
bunch of leaky holes in your deck and have the drips come
down
inside... Gary
- Original Message -
From:
Ed Dooley
via CnC-List
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Wednesday,
February 04, 2015 3:54
PM
Subject: Re:
Stus-List CC24
My shins agree with the last comment. I have a
CC24, but don't know
what might be different from the original.
Halyards to winches on the cabin top at the cockpit,
no genoa track (but
simple to adjust for whatever foresail I choose with
blocks clipped in to 2
or so increments in the aluminum toe-rail.
One improvement (I don't think they were
original, but who knows?) are
the Barient self-tailing winches for the main sheets (nice
improvement!).
Teak grab rail on the cabin, split back stay with
adjuster, home-made
boom vang (not well thought out by previous owner). From
the brochures
on
Stu's site http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/
it looks
like, as Chris said, the early models had halyards to mast
base, not so on
later models where they go to winches on the cabin top, at
the cockpit.
Ed
From: Marek Dziedzic dziedzi...@hotmail.com
Date:
Wed, 4 Feb 2015 15:21:48 -0500
To: 'Hoyt,
Mike' mike.h...@impgroup.com,
cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject:
Re: Stus-List CC24
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One
of the big improvements was the change from the main
sheeting to the cabin top
(without the traveller) to a traveller in the cockpit.
That change improved
dramatically trimming of the main, even if some complained
that the traveller
was getting in the way of getting into the companion
way.
There
was a good picture on the boat for sail in BC (?) just a
week or so
ago.
Marek
(ex.
CC 24 Fennel)
From:
CnC-List
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List
Sent: February-04-15
14:28
To: chris hulett; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject:
Re: Stus-List CC24
Did
you take pictures prior to stripping off
Re: Stus-List balsa core
I'll let the skilled folks chime in with more specific answers, but I can relate what one of our handy guys did to his Cal 34 a few years ago. It is something you could do to get started. Where the cabin roof was soggy, he covered the boat (in the water for the winter) and put a heater inside. He then drilled a bunch of holes (from the inside) up into the balsa, turned on the heat and let it dry out over the winter. I don't remember whether he pulled the inside skin off or just filled the holes and cleaned up the mess the following spring, but he got rid of the moisture and firmed up the cabin roof. Gary - Original Message - From: Burt Stratton via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2015 9:25 AM Subject: Stus-List balsa core I have resigned myself to the fact that I need to address my decks and cockpit sole. The PO installed wood strips fore to aft on the cockpit sole ostensibly to provide some lateral traction. They were not properly bedded and as you might imagine, the wood strips did not last long. There are open screw holes and if I step next to them water comes out. That is an obvious problem. The reason I am concerned about my decks, particularly my cabin roof is the fact that a brown wet film will form over time on the inside of the cabin roof. My roof has no headliner. The paint was peeling badly when I bought the boat and I have stripped it off. If I clean the fiberglass and wait a few days the film gradually appears. My assumption is that there may be a wet core in the roof. I will get a surveyor to take readings with his moisture tool to confirm but assuming that is the case, I would appreciate any insight by listers who have tackled this problem. I am not an experienced fiberglass guy. I don't particularly like working with fiberglass but I am pretty handy otherwise and would be willing to attempt this work in order to save a few hard earned bucks. Here are a couple specific questions: 1. What would the balsa typically be replaced with? An appropriate thickness of mat? 2. Should I attempt to save the fiberglass skin I remove to be re-used or just use new fabric to glass over the repair? 3. Assuming I work from the inside, how do I defy gravity to keep the new mat or fabric from falling down until it cures? Does the resin have enough mastic properties to keep it up? It is starting to look like the coming season may be lost for me. I have a lot to do and can't do most of it until the temps increase. I do want to rehabilitate this boat and do it right. I think it will be worth it whether I keep the boat or sell her when I'm done. The boat is covered so I am hoping it will dry out a bit before I start. Thanks as always Skip 1974 CNC 33 3/4tonner On the hard in Walpole, MA -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album. Please donate to the CC Photo Album to keep this list free for all subscribers. Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album. Please donate to the CC Photo Album to keep this list free for all subscribers. Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 30 one design
Curtis, I agree with you. I race on a J-80 (and on my 30-1), and I cannot imagine that the new 30 will ever be a 'legend'. Our boats are excellent all-purpose boats - race, cruise, camp, sturdy, etc. The new 30 may have 100 takers in a sea of similar one-design sportboats. We have over 600 of us and I'll bet most of them are still on the water, 30 years after the last was built. Gary - Original Message - From: Curtis via CnC-List To: D.J. Platt ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Monday, January 19, 2015 8:40 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 30 one design My old 30-1 is a legend, Not sure the new 30 will ever be that. On Mon, Jan 19, 2015 at 4:34 PM, D.J. Platt via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Can't argue with you there. Best I ever saw as 8.2 and that was in a lot more than 15 knots. -- From: Tim Goodyear timg...@gmail.com Sent: Monday, January 19, 2015 1:00 PM To: David Platt w7...@yahoo.ca; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 30 one design I bet your old Mark 1 doesn't do 12 knots in 15 knots of wind either. It was a blast to sail in NYC. Tim Mojito CC 35-3 Branford, CT On Jan 19, 2015, at 5:03 AM, David Platt via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: saw it at the Toronto boat show yesterday. Doesn't look much like my old Mark 1. david On Sun, 2015-01-18 at 19:05 -0500, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List wrote: Funny. I posted this on the list in Oct 2013 when the first drawings of the Redline were released. SR was purchased by CC from Glen Henderson. A drawing of the first boat to be produced by the new Cc company was shown at the Newport Boat show. It's the Redline 41 similar to a King 40 by Summit yachts. You can see a drawing of it at http://summit-yachts.com/. The new line is described below Sent from my iPhone On Jan 18, 2015, at 6:11 PM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: This from Sailing World: the CC Redline 41 is deemed an updated King 40. BOTY rules require original tooling, so the 41,although well built, is excused. Based on the CC website I was lead to believe this was a new hull. Brent 27-5 Lake Winnipeg Sent from my iPhone On Jan 18, 2015, at 3:53 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Redline was a huge disappointment. They should take a chainsaw to the interior and the price tag. Joel On Sunday, January 18, 2015, Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: CC 30 OD I just shipped 3 of these boats (hull nos: 05, 06 08) to USWatercraft's Japanese dealer. All 3 boats were pre sold. The dealer has 3 more hulls on order for delivery by the end of May 2015. There is also a lot of interest from Australia we well. Jack Fitzgerald HONEY US12788 CC 39 TM On Sun, Jan 18, 2015 at 1:22 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Looking forward to finally seeing one at the Seattle Boat Show next week. Hoping they'll have the a Redline 41 though I doubt it. Oh yeah...go Hawks! Tom Buscaglia S/V Alera 1990 CC 37+/40 Vashon WA P 206.463.9200 On Jan 18, 2015, at 9:00 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote: Message: 2 Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2015 20:15:30 -0500 From: Jerome Tauber jrtau...@aol.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List CC30 one design at Key West There will be a CC 30 one design competing in Key West Race Week starting tomorrow. Jerry cC 27 v JJ Sent from my iPhone ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album. Please donate to the CC Photo Album to keep this list free for all subscribers. Email address:
Re: Stus-List Sailing magazines
I get Sail (like the handy hints and upgrade projects and the 'what we did right/wrong' articles) and Sailing World (the racing rules discussions and diagrams are good learning tools). Gary - Original Message - From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Tuesday, January 20, 2015 1:02 PM Subject: Stus-List Sailing magazines I currently get Sail and Cruising World. I'm going to drop CW because I don't plan to spend three months exploring Tahiti any time soon. Sailing World wants back. It is worth the money? Which mags do you read/recommend for racing and coastal cruising? -- Joel 35/3 Annapolis 301 541 8551 -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album. Please donate to the CC Photo Album to keep this list free for all subscribers. Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album. Please donate to the CC Photo Album to keep this list free for all subscribers. Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 30 one design
Mine is number 593 and Curtis has a low 600 number. Gary - Original Message - From: Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: Curtis cpt.b...@gmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Tuesday, January 20, 2015 12:07 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 30 one design Anyone know how many of the old 30-1s were made? Always wondered. I heard it was over 300. Ron Wild Cheri STL ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album. Please donate to the CC Photo Album to keep this list free for all subscribers. Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album. Please donate to the CC Photo Album to keep this list free for all subscribers. Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 30 one design
By the way, hull number 1 is still sailing on the Chesapeake. Gary - Original Message - From: Nate Flesness via CnC-List To: Hoyt, Mike ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Tuesday, January 20, 2015 9:08 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 30 one design The Canadian Yachting magazine article on the photoalbum says more than 800 CC 30-1's were built - the second highest production number (more than 1,000 27's). Nate Sarah Jean 1980 30-1 (#602) Siskiwit Bay Marina Lake Superior On Tue, Jan 20, 2015 at 7:13 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: In the US Sailing handicapping guide the CC 30 is broken down into hulls 1 - 506 and 507+. The more modern CC 30-2 is listed separately Mike ___ From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com] Sent: January 20, 2015 1:07 AM To: Curtis; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 30 one design Anyone know how many of the old 30-1s were made? Always wondered. I heard it was over 300. Ron Wild Cheri STL ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album. Please donate to the CC Photo Album to keep this list free for all subscribers. Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album. Please donate to the CC Photo Album to keep this list free for all subscribers. Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album. Please donate to the CC Photo Album to keep this list free for all subscribers. Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album. Please donate to the CC Photo Album to keep this list free for all subscribers. Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Fresh water flush of engine
I don't know about flushing the engine with fresh water (I'm in brackish water - mid Chesapeake) but I plan on putting a T valve in my water intake before next splash so I can easily hook up a hose to ingest anti-freeze. The intake hose seems to get bonded to the thru-hull and I'm tired of having to struggle (or cut) to get it off each year. Project number 206. Gary 30-1 St. Michaels Maryland - Original Message - From: Al Serrato via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Monday, January 19, 2015 8:59 PM Subject: Stus-List Fresh water flush of engine I have a 1981 '34 with a Yanmar 3GMD engine with seawater cooling. A mechanic recommended that I install a t-valve for the raw water intake so I can flush the engine with fresh water occasionally. The engine appears to be in good condition and runs well in the two years I have owned the boat but I suspect that it is the original, making it 33 years old. While this makes sense, I'm wondering whether it's necessary at this point, given the age of the engine. in other words, is the damage already do Everything? Also, I'm wondering what the long term effect of seawater cooling is and what failures or problems result from the seawater over long periods of time. What is the likely useful life of a marine Yanmar diesel? Thanks for any advice or suggestions. Al Serrato Fidelity 1981 C C 34 San Francisco Bay -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album. Please donate to the CC Photo Album to keep this list free for all subscribers. Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album. Please donate to the CC Photo Album to keep this list free for all subscribers. Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 30 one design
Yes, but that was a 30-2. Does it count? Gary 30-1 - Original Message - From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List To: Curtis ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Tuesday, January 20, 2015 2:48 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 30 one design Sadly, one 30 was lost in a fire last week: http://www.capitalgazette.com/news/for_the_record/ph-ac-cn-boat-fire-0119-20150118,0,5318626.story The new 30s are a rich man's toy. If anyone in Annapolis wants to write a check for $150k to buy one I'll bring the beer! I hope they sell hundreds, but I'm not betting on it. McConahay just announced a 30, plus there are Farrs and Seascapes, just to name a few, to fragment a small market. Then there is the J monster. Joel 35/3 Annapolis On Tue, Jan 20, 2015 at 2:34 PM, Curtis via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: So right Gary. On Tue, Jan 20, 2015 at 2:33 PM, Curtis cpt.b...@gmail.com wrote: ZZC-30-671-M81- E What do they mean? On Tue, Jan 20, 2015 at 8:13 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: In the US Sailing handicapping guide the CC 30 is broken down into hulls 1 - 506 and 507+. The more modern CC 30-2 is listed separately Mike ___ From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com] Sent: January 20, 2015 1:07 AM To: Curtis; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 30 one design Anyone know how many of the old 30-1s were made? Always wondered. I heard it was over 300. Ron Wild Cheri STL ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album. Please donate to the CC Photo Album to keep this list free for all subscribers. Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album. Please donate to the CC Photo Album to keep this list free for all subscribers. Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Best regards, Curtis McDaniel, CC 30-MK1 East Coast Lady Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover. -Mark Twain cpt.b...@gmail.com __/) . -- Best regards, Curtis McDaniel, CC 30-MK1 East Coast Lady Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover. -Mark Twain cpt.b...@gmail.com __/) . ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album. Please donate to the CC Photo Album to keep this list free for all subscribers. Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album. Please donate to the CC Photo Album to keep this list free for all subscribers. Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album. Please donate to the CC Photo Album to keep this list free for all subscribers. Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List handicap for after market sprits
I checked with our local CBYRA handicapper. Chesapeake Bay rates asyms more by sail area than any other single criteria. The other adjustment area is whether the sail can be adjusted From some local racers: we have three Cal 40s's here on the mid-Eastern Shore. All three do off-shore racing (Newport to Bermuda, etc.) and do quite well (second last year, fourth in 2000, etc.) They got dinged 3 seconds when they added an asym to their inventory, because they have the capability of flying it on their pole. The usual rule is: if they have an asym on a short fixed pole or flying from the bow, and it isn't a bunch bigger than their normal spinnaker dimensions, then the penalty may be 0 or 3-6 seconds depending on sail area. A local CC 115 with a longer than normal pole also gets 3 seconds. He flies his asym from the pole, so can bring it back when sailing downwind. Any other situations (like the IMX40 which added a carbon extendable pole which goes out about 8-10 feet) get treated individually. Gary LMPHRF, our local handicap governing body, is making adjustments to the credit and penalties of handicaps for displacement hull boats that fly asyms, with and without the addition of sprits. I'm interested in what other regions are using for regs, amount of participation, and observations of performance changes. Thanks for your help. Pete ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album. Please donate to the CC Photo Album to keep this list free for all subscribers. Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album. Please donate to the CC Photo Album to keep this list free for all subscribers. Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 30 one design
Yours is hull number 671, built in 1981 (don't know the month, but I think it is May). Mine is ZZC 30 593 M 80 B. So, it looks like they made 77 boats in little more than a year. Gary - Original Message - From: Curtis via CnC-List To: Hoyt, Mike ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Tuesday, January 20, 2015 2:33 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 30 one design ZZC-30-671-M81- E What do they mean? On Tue, Jan 20, 2015 at 8:13 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: In the US Sailing handicapping guide the CC 30 is broken down into hulls 1 - 506 and 507+. The more modern CC 30-2 is listed separately Mike ___ From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com] Sent: January 20, 2015 1:07 AM To: Curtis; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 30 one design Anyone know how many of the old 30-1s were made? Always wondered. I heard it was over 300. Ron Wild Cheri STL ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album. Please donate to the CC Photo Album to keep this list free for all subscribers. Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album. Please donate to the CC Photo Album to keep this list free for all subscribers. Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Best regards, Curtis McDaniel, CC 30-MK1 East Coast Lady Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover. -Mark Twain cpt.b...@gmail.com __/) . -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album. Please donate to the CC Photo Album to keep this list free for all subscribers. Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album. Please donate to the CC Photo Album to keep this list free for all subscribers. Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Off CC, but boating related question
Those of you who are computer literate: this is kind of a boat question - a member in our museum's model boat club is interested in getting an easy to use 2D drafting program. He is leading the task to design and prepare a kit to build a model of one of our oyster 'buy' boats which used to be prevalent on the Chesapeake. We have the real boat (65' long) at the museum, and he has taken measurements, but wants to have a professional set of plans for the prospective model builders. Any one have any ideas? Thanks in advance. Gary Nylander St. Michaels Maryland___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album. Please donate to the CC Photo Album to keep this list free for all subscribers. Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 30 one design
This list is provided by the CC Photo Album and is free to subscribed members. Please help us keep it free by donating today at: http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/chandlery_2/store.php?crn=226rn=428action=show_detail ___ Is everybody else getting a bunch of symbols in their emails? The one below has an - a with a carot on top, followed by a euro sign and a trademark symbol and a small s - all in the place that a single quote should be. Gary - Original Message - From: jtsails via CnC-List To: Chuck S ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2015 6:24 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 30 one design This list is provided by the CC Photo Album and is free to subscribed members. Please help us keep it free by donating today at: http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/chandlery_2/store.php?crn=226rn=428action=show_detail ___ -- Not sure I would say that this particular boat is in the realm of racer/cruiser that our old CCâ?Ts were. It is used as a racer/daysailer only. Very optimized for racing and extremely well equipped and crewed. Their team has raced together for a number of years and are very good. Owned by friends of mine. They finally got enough wind today to do well against the Farr 280â?Ts and are expecting a good day tomorrow too. James Taylor S/V Delaney 1976 CC 38 Oriental, NC From: Chuck S via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2015 5:55 PM To: Jerome Tauber ; CNC boat owners, cnc-list Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 30 one design This list is provided by the CC Photo Album and is free to subscribed members. Please help us keep it free by donating today at: http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/chandlery_2/store.php?crn=226rn=428action=show_detail ___ -- Wow, the J-122, a racer/crusier like CC used to stand for, is doing well against the all carbon sport boats. Just sayin. Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md -- From: Jerome Tauber via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2015 4:07:29 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 30 one design This list is provided by the CC Photo Album and is free to subscribed members. Please help us keep it free by donating today at: http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/chandlery_2/store.php?crn=226rn=428action=show_detail ___ Well the CC 30 One Design has not been doing well. To be fair, the driver is an amateur up against some pros and he has beaten some Farr 280's on time but not on handicap. See current results to date below. Jerry CC27 MKV. JJ. PHRF_Triple_ToD_2_ToT Division PHRF 1 1. GBR 007 Red Farr 280 Joe Woods 1 1 2 2 1 3 3 4 17.0 2. USA 52939 Teamwork J 122 Robin Team 3 6 3 7 6 1 1 1 28.0 3. USA 006 Decision Farr 280 Stephen Murray 2 4 1 5 2 5 5 7 31.0 4. USA 41 Rhumb Punch Farr 30 John Edwards4 2 5 8 3 4 4 3 33.0 5. USA 52902 El Ocaso J 122 Richard Wesslund 5 7 8 1 7 2 2 2 34.0 6. USA 005 D I E S E L Farr 280Tate Russack 8 3 4 4 4 6 6 5 40.0 7. USA 001 Ragin' Farr 280 Bob Moran 6 5 7 3 5 9/DNS 9/DNS 9/DNS 53.0 8. USA 30002 SALT CC 30 Oleksandr Ivanov 7 8 6 6 8 7 7 6 55.0 -Original Message- From: Jim Watts via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: Gary Nylander gnylan...@atlanticbb.net; 1 CnC List cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Tue, Jan 20, 2015 3:29 pm Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 30 one design That was definitely not a 30-2 (no folding gate in the transom), I'd say the ID as a 29-1 is correct. Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 20 January 2015 at 12:20, Gary Nylander via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Yes, but that was a 30-2. Does it count? Gary 30-1 - Original Message - From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List To: Curtis ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Tuesday, January 20, 2015 2:48 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 30 one design Sadly, one
Re: Stus-List Folding/feathering Props
I have the Flex. I think it is a 14.5 x 10, but I'll look tomorrow. It is a block away. I assume Yanmar 2QM15? I liked the workmanship on the Flex better than the Gori. But - years ago. Gary - Original Message - From: Alan Lombard via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Saturday, January 31, 2015 4:10 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Folding/feathering Props Hello Gary, I too have a CC 30 and am debating either a Gori or a FlexoFold. Do you remember what size Flexofold you have, and can you comment if it seems the right size. The recommendation Flexofold have made to me is 2-blade 15x11R. Thanks, Alan -- ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Broken Goose neck
An unintended jibe broke mine. After talking to some welders, who said the cast metal was hard to work with, I had a local guy fabricate one out of stainless (all that about 15 years ago) - it still looks new. Gary - Original Message - From: Paul Fountain via CnC-List To: Richard N. Bush ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2015 7:49 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Broken Goose neck We had garhauer make a new one in stainless when we put the solid vang on Not a fan of cast aluminum for the reason you saw Sent from my iPad On Jan 11, 2015, at 2:17 AM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I went to the boat to check on things and while standing on the frozen dock I sensed that something wasn't right but nothing seemed out of the ordinary until it dawned on me that the boom was laying on the top of the cabin; the outboard end was hanging by the topping lift but the inboard end was laying at the base of the mast! I looked at it and found that the black metal part that goes in the goose neck was broken into pieces and the broken part of the ring was still in the goose neck with the bolt intactI can only assume that it somehow froze and snapped? We have had the same cold spell as the rest of the country, (single digits, etc.); and some windy nights, but I have no idea how a one inch wide and half inch thick piece of metal just broke; nonetheless, can this be repaired? welded? or should I look for a new one? The boom is original to the boat; 1985 37 CB; any ideas? Thanks Richard 1985 CC 37 CB; Ohio River Richard N. Bush 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 502-584-7255 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album. Please donate to the CC Photo Album to keep this list free for all subscribers. Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album. Please donate to the CC Photo Album to keep this list free for all subscribers. Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album. Please donate to the CC Photo Album to keep this list free for all subscribers. Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List The stern squats at high speed
Join the club. We (and Curtis comments later) have a boat with a flat transom. Thus, we can notice the squat more than those with boats with extended sterns and reverse transoms. Mine (30-1) splatters diesel crud all over the bottom half of the transom as I am motoring at any speed at all. I used to put a hose on the exhaust, but that looked so bad that I decided I should just wash off the crud after a vigorous motor. Comments below on hull speed are relevant. I cruised on a friends motorsailor - at 7 knots (big motor) the boat was pretty level, at 8, the bow came up a foot and the stern dropped a foot, at 9, more of the same. Think about a power boat coming up on plane.. Physics rules. Gary - Original Message - From: Joe at Zialater via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2015 12:13 PM Subject: Stus-List The stern squats at high speed Hi Tom - I notice the same thing on my 30-1 - as I increase revs the stern squats. I have a two blade fixed prop on an Atomic 4. I sometimes adjust the throttle by looking over the stern rather than the speedo - kinda handy. At high revs my exhaust is completely underwater while it is a few inches above water at rest. I don't know if it is really a problem or just a matter of physics - my power boat does the same thing, albeit more drastically. Joe Boyle Zia, 1975 30-1 Annapolis Message: 5 Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2015 11:54:00 -0500 From: TOM VINCENT tvince...@msn.com To: CC Forum cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List The stern squats at high speed Message-ID: bay168-w12245ac078651d15ee5bd5eed...@phx.gbl Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 I was wondering if anyone else has the same problem that I have with my 36' that has the 3 cylinder Yanmar 30 HP. While motoring if I increase the speed the stern starts squatting the faster I go. I top out at 6.5 knots of speed and the stern is way down. I have a martec 18'' folding prop and I do not know the pitch. Tom Vincent Frolic II 1979 36' CC ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album. Please donate to the CC Photo Album to keep this list free for all subscribers. Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album. Please donate to the CC Photo Album to keep this list free for all subscribers. Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Lose Hardware/Leaking Boat
It depends on the jib. On some boats (mine), you can move the car forward like Joel says, on others (like the J-24 I used to race on and the J-80 I race on now) you have a separate short track inside the shrouds to run the jib (blade type) through. Gary - Original Message - From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List To: Dan Utinske ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Monday, February 09, 2015 10:13 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Lose Hardware/Leaking Boat Dan, That's pretty funny - if its not your boat! I would remove the bracket and check to make sure that if it is wood core at that location it is not rotted. If it is, it may not be a big deal if it is just around the hole. I assume you mean genoa track and car? Yes, you move the car forward for a jib. Joel 35/3 Annapolis On Mon, Feb 9, 2015 at 10:07 AM, Dan Utinske via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I've been fighting a leak for a while and with the persistent rain here in the PNW finally found the culprit. The aft deck brackets for the spinnaker pole hardware had not been tightened, worse yet I found a 3/8 ratchet drive with a 7/16 socket jammed up in the overhead rusted to one of the bolts; had to use WD40 to dislodge the tool. Seems someone was mid-stream on installing the bracket and became distracted. Good thing is I found the leak and hopefully have eliminated it. All along I thought it was the toe rail or Genoa rail which brings me to the question: If there's a Genoa rail, what does one use for the jib? I assume the same rail, is that a correct assumption? Dan CC 26' Only Time ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 -- ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Garhauer Rigid Boom Vang
If you buy a brand new Garhauer, you can have them custom make the mast and boom plates for attaching it for that price. Thus, having to fabricate that yourself, the old one should be discounted a bunch! I would start at half of what it cost new (back in the day) and then figure out how much it will cost to get the plates made. I have one of the old units on my 30, and am very happy with it - the Boomkicker we have on the J-80 is not nearly as easy to use, so there is some value in having a good unit. But it is old. Gary - Original Message - From: Peter Fell via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Tuesday, February 10, 2015 2:07 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Garhauer Rigid Boom Vang Thanks ... current model pricing is $495 (US), I highly doubt that would apply to a 10+ year old boom vang. Hard to determine a used value not something that comes up for sale very often as far as I can see so that’s why I’m asking. From: RAYMOND SHIBE Sent: Tuesday, February 10, 2015 10:40 AM To: Peter Fell Subject: RE: Stus-List Garhauer Rigid Boom Vang Call Garhauer or go on their website for pricing. On Tue, Feb 10, 2015 at 04:56 AM, Peter Fell via CnC-List wrote: I’m talking to a fellow here that has a Garhauer rigid vang for sale, from a CC 30. Matching it up to info online I think it’s a RV20-1 ... an older model, not the current one. I’m trying to get more specifics on this actual unit, but I’ve seen references online dated 2002 and 2006, so it’s at least in that age range. I realize there may have to be some mods to adapt the boom and mast tangs to the 27’s mast. Anyone got any clue what the boom vang might be worth? Peter Fell Sidney, BC Cygnet CC 27 MkIII ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List PHRF Adjustments for Spin and JAM in a single fleet
As I said - pick a percentage and wait for the squawking. In our Herring Island fleet, we use the Annapolis to St. Michaels race as one of our long distance races. Depending on club entrants for that race, we can have boats in multiple PHRF classes ranging from PHRF A2 through PHRF C/D. Plus, we could have someone running in a one design class (J-30, Triton, etc.) - and we have two different course lengths, depending on class - they usually have about 15 starts. We use our 15% NS adjustment - the only problem is we cannot use our 7.5% cruising chute adjustment, because the PHRF rules don't allow that, they dump them into Spin. We have had high finishing boats come from both Spin and NS classes (cruising) and from just about every PHRF group. This past year, we didn't have any NS boats and everybody was grouped in PHRF classes which ran the long course (21 miles), so it was easy. In the past, it hasn't been, but more depends on what the wind is doing and where the currents are headed than any other single criteria. There is no perfect answer, so just choose something. For me, 15% is better than a fixed number of seconds per mile, because of the wide range of PHRF's in our fleet. And, because the course has multiple legs in different directions, the good reaching boats may come out better or not depending on wind. (A Bermuda 40 yawl with a mizzen staysail is a good reacher, as is a J-80 if the wind is right, but if the wind is skewed by 20 degrees, neither does that well). Good Luck. Gary in St. Michaels - on the 80 for this one. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List PHRF Adjustments for Spin and JAM in a single fleet
Rick, you probably have seen some of my earlier postings from earlier debates. We have two small fleets around St. Michaels. Our Herring Island Sailing Fleet uses a 15% rating adjustment for non spinnaker boats, with a 7.5% adjustment if the boat has a cruising spinnaker (gennaker?) tacked to the bow - no poles allowed. It has worked pretty well over a number of years. Our Wednesday Night Fleet uses a flat 10% adjustment for non spinnaker boats - white sails only. We have been doing this for about 15 years - anything more 'fancy' creates confusion. The Charleston fleet has a sliding scale dependent on the style of boat, but when trying to explain it to the troops, all I got were rolling eyeballs. In each case, the skipper must make his/her decision before the course is posted - no 'cheating' when it is an all reaching course or some other factor. In most cases, it is because the wind is too strong, or the crew is too small. In strong wind (inexperienced skipper or crew) some racers would not participate if they couldn't get some relief for not flying a chute. However, when it is blowing and the boat would be near or at hull speed without a chute, the adjustment may be too large. One caveat - we have series races - Herring Island has three four race series - from May to the beginning of October and the Wednesday is one long series of up to 22 races all summer - and both have throw-outs. If you are trying this for a single race, you may want to come up with a sliding scale - when it is blowing hard enough to have boats get up toward hull speed without a chute, a 15% adjustment would be excessive. I have had races where I was near 6 knots in my 30-1 with a poled out genoa and competitors were fighting to keep their boats under the chutes and were only going a wee bit faster. In medium to light conditions, 15% may not make it even. Good luck - if you are only dealing with CC boats (traditional ones, not the new 30) you can probably choose something which will be equitable, when you get into a fleet like ours (CC 115 at PHRF 75 to Triton at 252...), then it is tougher. Gary Nylander 30-1 Maryland From: Rick Brass via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Friday, March 20, 2015 9:17 PM Subject: Stus-List PHRF Adjustments for Spin and JAM in a single fleet OK. I know this has been discussed before. But I just spent almost two hours in the mail archives rereading a whole bunch of previous messages, trying to come up with a consensus opinion on how to adjust PHRF ratings to allow spin and JAM boats to compete in a single (small) fleet. What I firmly believe I have discovered is that, sort of like economists and politicians, if you laid all the opinions end to end they would never reach a conclusion. I know that a number of PHRF organizations give a boat both a Spin and a non-spin rating. And I understand that local some local organizations with small fleets running in a single event will adjust the ratings of boats in non-spin to promote more even competition. From what I can see, the credit for running non-spin seems to be in the range of 10-18 seconds, or 10-15% of the boat's PHRF. What I'm trying to do is plan for a CC Cup to be run as part of a local charity regatta called Pirates on the Pungo, in Belhaven, NC on the weekend of May 15-17. More on that later. The race on Saturday is a longish (10-12NM) pursuit race that starts and finishes in the harbor and has north, south, east, and west legs. I know of about 15 CCs within a day's travel of Belhaven, so I'm guessing the fleet would include 8-10 boats, with some cruisers and 1 or 2 real racers. To promote camaraderie and competition, and also so I don't have to pony up too much for the prizes (the winner will get a half hull of his own boat made by Andrew Burton), we would have a single fleet. So help me here: How does your local PHRF or sailing club adjust the ratings between Spin and JAM to allow both types of boats in a single fleet? And how equitable are the results based on your experience? Rick Brass Imzadi CC 38 mk 2 la Belle Aurore CC 25 mk1 Washington, NC -- ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Racing w whisker poles
The three local RC's I race with have no specific rules about whisker poles, thus rely on PHRF definition which says it cannot be longer than J without penalty. An adjustable pole must be marked at J. Gary Nylander 30-1 St. Michaels Maryland - Original Message - From: Chuck S via CnC-List To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list Sent: Saturday, March 21, 2015 11:19 AM Subject: Stus-List Racing w whisker poles Ron, Gary, Rick, Curious. Does your RC allow adjustable whisker poles longer than J length to be used during a race in your areas? Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md -- ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Bottom paint
On the Eastern Shore, a local J-80 was dry sailed. If she was launched for a Wednesday race, she needed a quick 'floss' (dragging a bed sheet from side to side) for Saturday. Last year, we (another J-80) had one year old Vivid and a diver every other week - noticed some drag so had the diver come weekly, which we also did on our 30-1 with year old Hydrocoat. We are hoping fresh Hydrocoat SR will last two weeks and the same with some fresh Vivid on the 80. We got a deal on diving because I moved Penniless next to the 80 so the diver could get two at a time. If all this doesn't make sense, the ex-Admiral sails the 30 and I crew on an 80 and race the 30 on some Sundays. Gary Nylander 30-1 - Original Message - From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List To: robert ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2015 2:29 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint Most of the race boats in Annapolis are painted and have weekly cleanings! If you dive and have Wednesdays free you can pick up some good money! J30 class rules prohibit dry sailing, and no one dares go bare. Joel On Wed, Mar 11, 2015 at 2:26 PM, robert via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Jack: Some of the 'sport boats' at our club don't use any antifouling paint and haul regularly with our 5 ton crane to clean by regularly, probably monthly. You say you have a monthly scrubbing by a diverwhy bother with an antifouling paint with a monthly scrubbing? Rob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2015-03-11 2:14 PM, jackbrennan via CnC-List wrote: I have had Trinidad on the bottom for three years without a haulout, but with monthly scrubbing by a diver. It still has plenty of potency. I figure I will haul at around five years. Jack Brennan Former CC 25 Shanachie e, 1974 Bristol 30 Tierra Verde, Fl. Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO Original message From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List Date:03/11/2015 12:59 PM (GMT-05:00) To: Jean-Francois J Rivard ,cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Stus-list Bottom paint Thanks Currently have Petit Vivid on our boat. Am assuming is much the same as Micron CSC in its use and anti fouling effectiveness Mike Persistence From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2015 1:20 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Stus-list Bottom paint + 1 on Petit Trinidad. It is the #1 recommended paint for overall effectiveness / durability in these here parts.. I'm not in salt water (But I am in a warm climate that is very conducive to slime) so far (1 year) it lives up to the hype and the bottom is completely slime / growth free / smooth / fast. Trinidad is not an ablative, it's modified epoxy hard paint that burnishes to a really smooth finish if you're so inclined (And your rotator cuffs can stand the abuse.. OUCH). I am told that if you are in an area where you have to haul-out in the winter, a light sanding or bronze wool burnishing in the spring will re-activate / supercharge the growth killing copper action. -Francois Rivard 1990 34+ Take Five Lake Lanier, GA Subject: Re: Stus-List bottom paint Message-ID: tgspjckrf3vlhjhi43dki3qq.1426045522...@email.android.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 I used the Micron ablative paints in South Florida about 11 years ago. They're not good for the subtropics. Growth is quick, and the bottom is near impossible to clean in the water, unless you like being covered in toxic chemicals. Petite Trinidad is the way to go here. Jack Brennan Former CC 25 Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30 Tierra Verde, Fl. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 -- ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:
Re: Stus-List Electronics update
There is a national database of PHRF ratings, giving the highest, lowest, and average for each boat. I don't think it has 'stock' boats only, meaning the range could include modifications or rating adjustments. Look at USSailing and then PHRF, and you should find it. Gary St. Michaels, MD Under only about 8 inches of snow. - Original Message - From: Gary Russell via CnC-List To: John Bousfield ; CC List Sent: Friday, March 06, 2015 8:19 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Electronics update I use the Questus backstay mount with no problems. It is pricey, though. The PHRF varies depending on your location. Most local PHRF organizations have a web site that you can look for the PHRF of similar boats. Gary S/V Expresso CC 35 Mk II East Greenwich, RI, USA ~~~_/)~~ On Fri, Mar 6, 2015 at 8:12 AM, John Bousfield via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Hi All, Great info being passed around. We are upgrading our instruments and have a few questions. 1. Our depth transducer is located +/_ 2 feet on center line behind the keel. Is this the normal location? 2. Has any on change the spreader and mast head lights to LEDs, and what brand would you suggest using. 3. Is anyone using a backstay radar mount. I think this is the best option. Currently it is on a pole with two ugly braces that interfere with the swim ladder. For those using the backstay mount any issues? Thanks John Marjolein 1979 CC 36 Dutch Girl Oh forgot anyone know the PHRF rating to the 36? ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List 1976 CC 38 Electrical Panel
Damn When the PO's rocket scientists rewired my 1980 version, they separated the panels (AC and DC) and put stud type buses on the DC side - both for the red wires and the black. And they trimmed the wires to make a great looking back of the panel. But.. the wires are too short to hook to a proper bus bar. The red wires are OK, because they are each run to a breaker, but all the grounds are on a single stud! I have sat in the lazerette a bunch of times in the last 20+ years and have tried to figure out how to make this fix - to no avail. So, I keep making sure all is tight back there and figure that 20 or so splices would be worse than a common stud. Gary 30-1 - Original Message - From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List To: Dennis C. ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Thursday, March 12, 2015 9:39 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List 1976 CC 38 Electrical Panel Joe, Three? Thought it was 4. More to do! Is there an easy way to mount a bus bar to the hull? Epoxy a wood block to it? Joel On Thu, Mar 12, 2015 at 9:28 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Also, coat all crimp connections and the connectors with TefGel prior to crimping and connecting. http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=546 Dennis C. On Thu, Mar 12, 2015 at 7:28 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I recently learned of the importance of using wires for refrigeration systems that are 2 sizes larger than the anchor wire charts recommend--it is amazing how the voltage drop experienced otherwise reduces the efficiency of the fridge. Since this is your first foray into boat wiring, use tinned wire and generally follow the Anchor wire size recommendations. (The longer the run, the heavier the wire should become.) Also, I highly recommend using a good crimping tool--it makes a difference! By the way, all the original wiring on our CCs were un-tinned because tinned wire was not readily available thirty years ago. I have replaced most of my original wiring but there are some embedded in the cabin roof that I can't replace. One change that works in our favor is the increased used of LED bulbs and their reduced electrical needs compared to thirty years ago. Bob Bob Boyer S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD 1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230 email: dainyr...@icloud.com blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats. --Kenneth Grahame ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 -- ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Email List or Forum
List. Gary - Original Message - From: John Irvin via CnC-List To: Dennis C. ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Friday, March 13, 2015 6:53 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Email List or Forum I'd stay with the list, Stu You never know what you're going t learn and it's easy to delete what doesn't interest you. I am grateful for the every time I access it. Many thanks. -- From: Dennis C. via CnC-List Sent: 2015-03-13 6:16 PM To: Stu; CnClist Subject: Re: Stus-List Email List or Forum 1) I can set my email to thread view. No advantage for me to go to forum. 2) How mobile friendly would forum be? I read a lot of the list mails on my smartphone. I'm old and don't like change. Slight preference to maintain current system. Dennis C. On Fri, Mar 13, 2015 at 4:32 PM, Stu via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Recently, some of our subscribers have indicated that they would like to have a “Forum” similar to “cruisersforum” or “sailnet” instead of an email list (like this one). PROS: 1. Eliminate the costs related to the email list 2. Follow a thread easier without having to read multiple emails. 3. Easier to find past, archived messages and threads. 4. Possible addition of public and private photo albums. 5. Easily moderated by more than one person. Threads can be deleted and undesirable subscribers blocked. 6. No more 20-30 emails a day. Visit the site at your convenience and view the latest topics since your last visit. CONS: 1. Forum software runs from free to around $250 depending on additional enhancements. 2. Might (???) require additional disk space and bandwidth on hosting site. () 3. Installation – I’ve done it before and it does take some time. And a bit more time involved to get it tweeked to perfection. Bottom line – would you rather have a FORUM or continue using this list? It does not matter to me. Stu ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List 1976 CC 38 Electrical Panel
That is apparently what someone did in the past. They separated the AC and DC panels, updated them and enclosed them with boxes. The problem is they placed the ground post for the DC circuit on the back side of the panel - almost in the middle. Then they sized the wiring to fit. So, my 20+ circuits are OK on the positive because they run to the breakers, but the black wires all terminate into a single (central) post. There's little room for a bus bar, and if there were, the wiring is not long enough to reach it. My option is to splice a bit of wire onto just about all the lines to reach a bus bar. I think I'd rather have the single post than a bunch of splices. Gary - Original Message - From: Robert Boyer via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Thursday, March 12, 2015 12:12 PM Subject: Stus-List 1976 CC 38 Electrical Panel The AC and DC should be on completely separate panels and the AC panel and wiring should have an enclosure to prevent inadvertent contact (per ABYC). You can always add a short length to the wire (on the DC side) so that you can reach a terminal. I am not endorsing what a PO may have done, but I am in the process of straightening out all my wiring behind the panels and organizing them so that future repairs and additions are simpler to make. I have 26 DC circuits on my hinged electrical panel with a few circuit breakers handling multiple equipment (mostly cabin lights that are ganged together). Bob Boyer S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD 1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230 email: dainyr...@icloud.com blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats. --Kenneth Grahame -- ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List I guess no sailing this weekend
Me too, but there is the little matter of being on the hard. Gary - Original Message - From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List To: Della Barba, Joe ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Thursday, March 12, 2015 1:02 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List I guess no sailing this weekend Glad I am south of the Bridge! Until April 15? Are they kidding? Looks like South River thawed. Waiting for my creek. Hoping to get out Sunday! Joel On Thu, Mar 12, 2015 at 12:59 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: [Federal Register Volume 80, Number 45 (Monday, March 9, 2015)] [Rules and Regulations] [Pages 12338-12341] From the Federal Register Online via the Government Printing Office [www.gpo.gov] [FR Doc No: 2015-05475] --- DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY Coast Guard 33 CFR Part 165 [Docket Number USCG-2014-0292] RIN 1625-AA00 Safety Zone for Ice Conditions; Chesapeake and Delaware Canal, Upper Chesapeake Bay, and Tributaries, MD AGENCY: Coast Guard, DHS. ACTION: Temporary rule. --- SUMMARY: The Coast Guard is establishing a temporary safety zone in all navigable waters within the northern portion of the Chesapeake Bay and its tributaries, including the western portion of the Chesapeake and Delaware Canal, located between the Delaware/Maryland Boundary Line across the Chesapeake and Delaware Canal east of Chesapeake City, MD, and a line drawn across the Chesapeake Bay at the William P. Lane, Jr. (US-50/301) Memorial Bridges, located between Sandy Point and Kent Island, MD. The temporary safety zone restricts vessels from transiting the zone during the effective period, unless authorized by the Captain of the Port Baltimore or his designated representative. This safety zone is necessary to protect mariners from the hazards associated with ice in the navigable waterways. DATES: This rule is effective without actual notice from March 9, 2015 until April 15, 2015. For the purposes of enforcement, actual notice will be used from the date the rule was signed, February 17, 2015 until March 9, 2015. ADDRESSES: Documents mentioned in this preamble are part of Docket Number USCG-2014-0292. To view documents mentioned in this preamble as being available in the docket, go to http://www.regulations.gov, type the docket number in the ``SEARCH'' box and click ``SEARCH.'' Click on ``Open Docket Folder'' on the line associated with this rulemaking. You may also visit the Docket Management Facility in Room W12-140 on the ground floor of the Department of Transportation West Building, 1200 New Jersey Avenue SE., Washington, DC 20590, between 9 a.m. and 5 p.m., Monday through Friday, except Federal holidays. FOR FURTHER INFORMATION CONTACT: If you have questions on this rule, call or email Mr. Ronald L. Houck, Sector Baltimore Waterways Management Division, U.S. Coast Guard; telephone 410-576-2674, email ronald.l.ho...@uscg.mil. If you have questions on viewing or submitting material to the docket, call Cheryl Collins, Program Manager, Docket Operations, telephone (202) 366-9826. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 -- ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Appropriate safety gear for a trip to Boston
I asked a friend who has done the trip a number of times and he agrees with Tim. If your inflatable is on deck or davits and ready to go - equipped with a ditch bag and radio - plus your personal locator - and a good radio with a high antenna you should be OK. I would assume you have a good way to launch it. And NO SCHEDULE! Have wiggle room so you don't find yourselves out there like the two idiots who had to be rescued a couple of weeks ago when the weather clobbered them. All the safety stuff - jack lines, harnesses etc. is necessary... You will be out there at night in traffic! When we did the NY to Chesapeake trip on his boat we didn't worry about fuel (motorsailer with two huge tanks) but you should have enough to last the longest leg you might have to motor plus a good reserve - we motorsailed almost all the way from Staten Island to Cape May. All of this assumes you have a CC which is in good repair. Gary - Original Message - From: Tim Goodyear via CnC-List To: Della Barba, Joe ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Thursday, March 12, 2015 3:17 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Appropriate safety gear for a trip to Boston Personally, I would not consider a raft for that trip - if you are able to plan based on weather rather than a fixed schedule, know and have maintained your boat well and the dinghy is inflated, not rolled up in a locker somewhere. A stop in NYC would mean coastal sailing all the way. +1 on jacklines, harnesses and life jackets. You may also want to check sleeping arrangements (lee cloths) if you don't sail overnight often and extra diesel in case of no wind. I made that trip a few years back (not my boat) and we entered Great Salt Pond with the dinghy strapped to the quarter as a tug... Tim Mojito CC 35-3 Branford, CT On Thu, Mar 12, 2015 at 3:00 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: An EPIRB is nice, but a PLB is certainly good enough to get help. As for the raft – if it were a race you would need one. The first time I did that route our “raft” was a Dyer dinghy on the cabin top. This was in 1976 when safety was not really a thing like it is now. We would have been totally f’d if the boat had sunk in anything but flat calm. I would think through the following: 1. Fire 2. Extreme weather 3. Getting run over 4. Structural failure/massive leak Think about how well the dinghy would do for these problems. I think #2 is not real likely, but 1 and 3 would not be good unless the dinghy was ready to go. Joe Della Barba Coquina From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Daniel Sheer via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, March 12, 2015 2:44 PM To: Cnc-list CNC Boat Owners Subject: Stus-List Appropriate safety gear for a trip to Boston Advice please. I'm taklng Pegathy from Baltimore to Boston and back in June. I've got an 8 foot inflatable, a gps based plb (McMurdo FastFind 210), and a new VHF with an AIS receiver. The only offshore planned is from Cape May to Block Island. Everything else will be close to shore. Do I need to bother with a life raft and/or a real epirb? Dan Sheer Pegathy LF 38 Rock Creek off the Patapsco ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Cordless heat gun for heat-shrink tubing
Barbeque lighter lasts longer and you can have a bigger flame. Gary Maryland - Original Message - From: Bill Bina via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Saturday, March 28, 2015 7:16 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Cordless heat gun for heat-shrink tubing A disposable lighter works just fine for that. I have even used a match. Bill Bina On 3/28/2015 6:04 AM, Damian Greene via CnC-List wrote: Does anyone have a recommendation for a cordless heat-gun to shrink the tubing / melt glue on 12V electrical crimp connections? I want cordless as my boat is normally on a mooring. I've come across a couple on the internet, but it's hard to judge if they are any good. By the way - big thank you to whoever posted that link to www.marinehowto.com http://www.marinehowto.com/ - fascinating reading, and I learned so much! I also now know who to go to if I am doing any major electrical work on my boat (he lives in Maine). Damian Greene CC 34 GHOST Bass Harbor, Maine ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Garhauer Rigid Boom Vang
Amen to that. I have had the Garhauer rigid vang for many years on my 30-1 (probably one size up from what would work on a 27) and race on a J-80 with a boomkicker. I find the Garhauer or others like it (raced on another J-80 with a Harken) to be much easier to use and adjust than the boomkicker. We have to haul hard to get the boomkicker to adjust and the boom fitting has given us grief in just two years of use. My Garhauer has had no problems...and has been raced for over a dozen years. Gary - Original Message - From: Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 2015 10:16 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Garhauer Rigid Boom Vang Garhauer rigid vang is $400-$500, not $1200. I have one on my 27-5 and it is perfect. Garhauer is a great company to deal with, and their stuff is very high quality. Bill Bina On 3/4/2015 10:04 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote: Peter Consider a Boom kicker in conjunction with your soft vang as another option. Plan on $300 brand new. On our J-27 I opted for a US Spars rigid vang for $400 new. I gave away my rope vang and blocks (the fiddle block was 1 year old) when I added this. Most of the J27 fleet went with the boomkicker. The US Spars vang includes line and blocks attached to vang. After the first year I decided I did not like this arrangement and added a rope vang with new blocks in addition to the rigid vang and was happy with that. Took the price up close to $200. I likely should have gone with the boomkicker. The CC 27 is a fairly small boat with a much smaller sail plan that the J27 and of course much smaller than CC 30. The arrangements described above would work well on your 27. The only thing I was less satisfied with on the US Spars rigid vang was the boom attachment which is a bit lighter weight than I would like. However again the CC 27 has a smaller sail plan and less pressures than the J27. Unfortunately I do not have pictures. The weakness of the boom end attachment for the US Spars vang was that it only had 2 rivets and with the blocks on the rigid vang itself there was tremendous pressure on those rivets when vang on tight. With the rigid vang being used for upward pressure and a traditional rope and block vang for downward pressure and attached at the bail on the boom as designed this pressure is gone. I do hope this helps. A $1200 rigid vang is very much overkill on a 27. Buy something new for $400 or less Mike Persistence Frers 33 -- ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
