The square footage is a function of how the sail is built. My spinnaker has
high 'shoulders' and is 24 feet across at the foot and about 35 feet tall.
But I could get another with the same external measurements but cut in a
more triangle configuration (no high and wide shoulders) and have a
I don't know about your PHRF area, but Chesapeake requires that the furler
drum is above deck AND you have the UV patch (heavy cloth) on both the foot
and leach of the sail. Then you get the six seconds.
Gary
- Original Message -
From: Martin DeYoung via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
One of the listers posted this tip: place a piece of line (3/8 or so) right
along the toe rail, in the part where the water stands - maybe about two
feet long and then have another foot or so threaded through the slot/hole in
the toe rail and hanging over the side. It will wick the water out
Come on, kids IBM punch cards, followed by a 1401 card system, 1440, then
1130.
Gary (retired IBM)
- Original Message -
From: via CnC-List
To: Leslie Paal ; Stews List
Sent: Friday, May 16, 2014 5:33 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List java updates
IBM 1130
Steve
-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary
Nylander via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, May 16, 2014 10:18 AM
To: sthom...@sympatico.ca; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List java updates
Come on, kids IBM punch cards, followed by a 1401 card system, 1440, then
1130.
Gary
After braking off a couple of keys on my Yanmar panel and paying about $50 for
a new switch (key broke the plastic too), I put in a push/pull switch - I found
out all Yanmar keys are the same - big deterrent! Besides, they have to get
into the cabin to turn on the AB switch.
Gary
Old Yanmar
The cable is pretty easy to measure. The one end is hooked to the shift lever
and the other to the transmission. You can follow the old one and get your
length. It is (as was said) a Morse cable and is available at many boat stores.
It is threaded at each end - you take the ends off the old and
My throttle cable has a little U shaped metal device with a 13mm (1/2) bolt
but it is located mid-way on the cable - very easy to get at. A little twist
stopped my throttle slippage.
Gary
- Original Message -
From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent:
I have a similar setup. As the big hose from the Whale Gusher runs from the
bilge to a point just under the toe rail on the Port side of the boat near the
wheel, I ran the little 3/4 smooth hose from the little one right next to it
and exited at the same altitude. Didn't have to create a new
With a folding prop on a 30, you will get vibration. I'm assuming you have a
two cylinder diesel? The prop is offset both vertically and horizontally -
so it is not operating evenly.
But, I don't have any wobble in the shaft - that doesn't sound right at all.
Gary
also 30-1
- Original
There's a little L bracket in the stainless tube which holds the cable (I
only know of the throttle, as the shift seems to be OK, but I replaced the
throttle). I seem to remember it is held by the screw near the top wooden
support, but yours could be different. I'll look today.
There is
This is the first time I've heard that the earlier 30-1's had a different
rudder design - I have a 1980 version and the keel and rudder are shark fins.
The scimitar does give you some weather helm when reaching in heavy air, but by
then your rail is in the water and you should be reducing sail
I am looking for a couple stanchion bases. They are the kind which have two
bolt holes that go through the toe rail and a third which goes through the
deck. I would prefer some used ones as they would match the ones on the boat
(34 years old) but would take a new one.
Does South Shore still
I don't even have to see it - if it is 'conventional', it is not original. As
the originals were all shark fins, this had to be custom. As I mentioned, there
were a number of people who modified early CC rudders to get them deeper,
because when you are heeled over (reaching?) the rudder is
And. you still have the whole of the Eastern Shore south of where you are -
the Corsica - the Chester - Eastern Bay and the Miles - the Choptank and Tred
Avon - and you still haven't been below the middle of the Bay. Our county alone
(Talbot) has roughly 6-700 miles of shoreline - little
We chartered a Swan a few years ago. The agent was giving me the tour
lift the (beautiful teak and holly) floorboards with the special
tooleach floorboard sits on an aluminum angle frame all welded
together to make a grid... beautiful welds...all water lines and such are
labeled
On the other hand. being a 30-1 owner for 20+ years, it is a boat which he
and his sweetie can sail without additional help in most conditions. A bigger
boat means more effort, maybe more people, more expense.
If he is looking for a party boat (bunches aboard for the weekend) then a 42
I sometimes pick up donated boats for the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum.
Another volunteer and I just sailed an early '80's O'Day 30 across the Bay for
the program. He was interested, because it has a centerboard and his mooring is
in rather slim water.
His thoughts were: Old gear, old
via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
I sometimes pick up donated boats for the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum.
Another volunteer and I just sailed an early '80's O'Day 30 across the Bay for
the program. He was interested, because it has a centerboard and his mooring is
in rather slim
Andrew, you would have to stay away from most of the Eastern shore. As Joe
mentioned, the channels leading to both Kent Narrows and Knapps Narrows are not
deep enough - I've been aground in each with 5 feet (and trying to stick to the
known deeper areas - neither is passable with 7). With seven
It is no more of a hassle to fly a symmetrical chute on a 29 than it is on
the J-24 (I have a 30-1 that I race every now and then and race on a J-24
each week). It is just bigger. You will probably need an additional person
(we use 5 on the 30 and 4 on the 24). An adjustable spin track on the
I 'repaired' mine with Head Lube. Good stuff.
Gary
- Original Message -
From: Dennis C. via CnC-List
To: CnClist
Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2014 10:23 PM
Subject: Stus-List Joker valve war!
I finally swapped out the joker valve in Touche's head because it was leaking
Looking at all the wonderful $5-7000 suggestions. how bad is your A4?
Does it need an infusion of the auxiliary stuff, like fuel injection instead
of the carb and an electronic ignition? Or is the block/head/and so forth
all history???
I would think if you have been getting nickled and
Rich, I think some others don't feel you are a skeptic. A friend took the
inboard one cylinder diesel out of his Andrews 26 (it died, no parts available)
and replaced it with an outboard. He got a three second addition to his PHRF.
We couldn't understand until someone mentioned ballast - down
Inner Harbor East is very good if you haven't found something else. We used it
when going to the Indy cars the last three years.
Gary
St. Michaels
- Original Message -
From: Chris Price via CnC-List
To: sam.c.sal...@gmail.com ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 06,
And, a dirty prop I was picking up a donated boat for our museum a couple
of years ago. It was dirty, but I figured it would make it - at black smoke
rpm's, it was going about a knot. Hauled it and the prop was just a round ball
of goop. Clean it up and then test it.
Gary
- Original
Curtis, I have the owners manual for Penniless and there is no mention of a
'sail plan'. The pictures show what looks like a 140 or 150 and that is about
it.
For your information, I use the 155 up to about 15 - 18 apparent, then drop to
the 140. Unless I am racing, and then sometimes I'll reef
Crap.
Gary
- Original Message -
From: Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List
To: Kevin Driscoll ; CCList
Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2014 11:39 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sailing Totem - (CC's) Keels Falling Off!
I have heard via this site of many issues concerning our old boats, but
Tighten up the little black plastic nut. There's an O ring underneath, so be
careful.
Gary
- Original Message -
From: Bev Parslow via CnC-List
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2014 11:44 AM
Subject: Stus-List wilcox crittendon head
I hope I have the
After finding out (the same way you folks have) that the key is easy to break
and it is also easy to bust the switch. I then replaced it for about $50
and then I found out that my old key fit my new switch and, looking at some
other Yanmar switches and finding out they are all the
I can't respond to the stay question, as I don't have those, but you can fly
your jib 'wing and wing' using a whisker or your spinnaker pole. I do it all
the time with a 155. Pole hooked to mast and the jib sheet. If you have a pole
lift (topping lift), that makes it easier and keeps the pole
My owners manual (with 1977 update) says the fuel tank is 20 gallons, the
settee water tank is about 15 or so and the one in the bow is 25 or so, the
total water is 40. My bow tank leaks, so I never have filled it. The holding
tank is about 15.
Gary
#593
- Original Message -
I did the same - two different set of 'marine' speakers lasted about a year
each before they disintegrated. Now, I have some neat starboard covers for
where they used to be - the inside ones are OK. I guess I never really wanted
outside noise.
Gary
- Original Message -
From:
There are some boat yards which trade tanks, you give the old, they give the
new - for a fee. Ours does just that.
Gary
- Original Message -
From: Rick Brass via CnC-List
To: Richard N. Bush ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Friday, September 12, 2014 12:02 AM
Subject: Re:
I figure that with the 'tree stump' of a mast on the 30-1, I should be OK. I
have done it a couple of times when the wind is up (rare, around here) and used
the working jib. No problem.
Gary
- Original Message -
From: Martin DeYoung via CnC-List
To: Fred Hazzard ;
If the 29 is like the 30, then the whole top of the mast (aluminum casting)
comes off - it rests on the top of the mast, but the casting goes down inside
of the mast. The sheaves are in the top piece, and you must take it off to get
the sheave axles out. Mine is secured with about 8 stainless
I've been lucky. My first admiral was gung-ho for almost anything thrilling, so
sailing on the windows was not a problem. We used to take our Coronado 15
dinghy out into the ocean from Marina del Rey and up to Santa Monica and back -
surfing down the side of waves on the way back. (she then
Ours used to do so as well - insurance now, we can leave them up. Mine
comes down every two or three years, just because I either have to fix
something up there or under the mast step. Last year, I got the mast out and
stored the boat under the shed - no cover, no nothing. neat! The
What do you guys do when cruising? I often hand over the helm when we are
heading across the Bay and then tell her where we want to go (follow the line
on the screen.) and then take a nap or do something down below. Just ask
her to alert you if there is something she doesn't understand. If
I think you are right. Black pipe wrapped. There may have been an
(expensive) Yanmar mixing elbow in the mix originally, but you should have a
flange bolted to the exhaust manifold (I am speaking about my 2 cyl Yanmar)
which has threads for the pipe and is removed with four bolts. I have gone
Curtis, be very careful when taking the old ones out. They are glued in with
some powerful stuff and you stand a good chance of chipping the gelcoat around
the windows (don't ask me how I know). You may want to try a dremel or one of
those vibrating side cutters (Fein tool?).
Then you have to
, Sep 23, 2014 at 7:54 AM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
Curtis, be very careful when taking the old ones out. They are glued in
with some powerful stuff and you stand a good chance of chipping the gelcoat
around the windows (don't ask me how I know). You may want
Try Womanship - they have a school in Annapolis, but hold classes in the
Caribbean.
A friend went - loved it.
Gary
- Original Message -
From: Tim Goodyear via CnC-List
To: Dennis C. ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jean-Francois J Rivard
Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2014 4:46
That's what I have done a couple of times. It works. I'll do it again this year.
Gary
- Original Message -
From: David Knecht via CnC-List
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2014 9:46 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast removal for winter?
Reading these
I made my little Garmin 5 somewhat portable. As the wiring I have is just for
power (2 wires) I put some good quality plugs on the Garmin harness and a wire
from the fuse panel. I used the type of plugs they use on model planes and
boats. Now, I can unplug the unit in just a minute and move it
I use LiPo's - are you thinking of them? I've not heard of LiPb's. LiPo's are
very fussy. Must use a special charger which does a controlled discharge and
then equalizes the cells - and you cannot discharge them beyond a certain
point - they die.
Gary
- Original Message -
From:
Getting all these messages - I had to reply.
I had a nearly new 4:1 rope vang setup from Garhauer and got greedy and went
for the spring loaded one - what to do with the old one? Put it on the split
backstay on my 30 - used a couple of the old wire blocks I had replaced when I
went to all rope
Mine is just thin.
Gary
- Original Message -
From: OldSteveH via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2014 4:53 PM
Subject: Stus-List CC 34 Spray Apron
Does anyone know if the spray apron has balsa core?
Mine feels soft, but am unsure
Second Frostbite of the season on Saturday - on the lower Miles River. We're
wimps...
Gary
- Original Message -
From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List
To: Della Barba, Joe ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Thursday, October 16, 2014 10:48 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List sailing this weekend
I followed a similar thread on this list a number of years ago. I built a
climbing harness from rock climbing equipment. It worked pretty good going up,
but was a bit of a pain coming down. If someone wants it, it is available for
the shipping - it is two carabineers and some strapping. I have
Sorry, I used the wrong terminology - 'ascenders' - and I got mine from REI.
Gary
- Original Message -
From: Neil Gallagher via CnC-List
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Thursday, October 16, 2014 11:40 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast Self-Climbers?
I just made such an
You win. Mine is a 1980, still feels new, but as you know, we don't use working
jibs much around here.
Gary
St. Michaels
- Original Message -
From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2014 7:35 AM
Subject: Stus-List oldest sail
Elf has been completely restored and is currently located at the Chesapeake Bay
Maritime Museum in St. Michaels, Maryland. She is gorgeous! Her owner set up a
foundation to keep her going and that she does she is the motivation for a
Mid May traditional boat race across the Bay from
I go with the addition of weight to make a one-design target. Not sure why on a
29, but On a non CC boat I raced on (one of the earlier ones of that make
built) there was 180 pounds of lead in the aft portion - to make the minimum -
because the later boats were built differently and weighed
Some friends who have done multiple Newport-Bermuda races have your last
configuration. They say it increases visibility.
Gary
- Original Message -
From: Rick Brass via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: 'Ronald B. Frerker' rbfrer...@yahoo.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Saturday,
On my 30-1 (1980), it is a Gusher. But, when I took it apart I couldn't get one
of the flaps out - totally frozen in place. Impact screwdriver, heat,
chemicals, leverage, no go. So, I replaced it. Not cheap, but you only have to
buy the main portion, not the cover or handle. I got mine from
Having a slightly bigger CC, I would think if you supported the boom at the
aft end and used a multi-part lift, the engine would come out easily. I would
try to spread the load on the boom - use about three lines (spread over about
three to four feet) from it to the lifting come-along or
A relatively easy way to check further about your engine - pull the cylinder
head. My 2QM15 had a crack between one of the valve seats and the water
passage. Replacing the head was not cheap, but a lot easier than pulling and
still only having to replace the head. Once the head is off you can
I have had a Flex for about 10 years now. I think yours needs cleaning. Mine
opens all the time without fail, so if yours is opening at the dock and not
when under way, the only 'fix' I can think of is more throttle, or the
reverse/forward trick, because something is interfering with the gears.
Very Interesting. a bunch of winches, deck organizers, line locks, but no
rudder? Prop? and the other stuff mentioned - Mast and Boom? You would need a
rather decent donor boat. Doesn't say anything about an engine - there's a prop
shaft with a zinc on it - but no prop? You really think it
There's some good boats - Flyer, the Cal 40, is parked about 50 feet from
mine. he was second in the Newport to Bermuda race this year - beaten by
Aceta, which is the Bermuda 40, also a Chesapeake boat. Both boats are
mid-'60's oldies but goodies (Flyer is pretty original - Aceta is
I'll make it sailing related. being nearsighted as well, I have 'split
vision' contacts. One for reading (almost) and the other for distance. But,
this screws up sighting the distance to marks, because the perspective is a bit
off.
But, as you 'young 'uns' get a little older, the distance
One better: lay a length (two feet?) of line (3/8 or so) in the low spot and
hang about a foot of it through one of the toe rail holes and over the side. It
will wick the water out even better than a sponge.
Gary
- Original Message -
From: Jim Watts via CnC-List
To: Bill Bina -
There's an outfit called Dri-Diver which makes a device like you described. I
hope they are still around, because I need a new scrub pad.
It is about 6 inches wide and 3 feet long. A scotch brite style pad hooks to a
plastic (maybe 1/8 inch thick) backing strip which has half a dozen cylinders
After a number of years using Hydrocoat and having the diver every two weeks
(gently, it is ablative and soft) and having about a quarter of it gone by
haulout (every fall), I switched to Hydrocoat SR two years ago. I didn't haul
this past spring (no time) and had a diver as usual. By each
If a diver is telling you to replace a prop which just has some build-up on it,
replace the diver. Like this letter says, take it off and buff it out. I use
emery cloth or sandpaper. Unless it is corroded to the point of falling apart,
it can be cleaned forever.
Gary
- Original Message
I have purchased them from West Marine (oops, not Canada any more) and Bacon
Sails in Annapolis Maryland. They are a standard item, I believe made by Nicro.
Gary
30 #593
- Original Message -
From: Peter Derviller via CnC-List
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Saturday, December
I also was skeptical - they listed paints by manufacturer. So, Pettit has paint
- about a dozen brands of all types, from ablative to hard as rocks. So, what
does it mean that Pettit has an X rating?
Gary
- Original Message -
From: Dennis C. via CnC-List
To:
This may have been answered, but I didn't see it.
The hooks are about a foot long, flat pieces of stainless about an inch wide
and 1/8 inch thick with a hook at the top end. They bolt to each side of the
mast just under the cabin roof. There are two bolts which go through the hooks
from one
The only suggestion I would have is to consider genoa tracks. The reason is our
CC's are rather 'fat' boats and sheeting the genoa to the toe rail gives us a
wider than optimum sheeting angle for the genoa. When I got my 30-1, I (had
been to a couple of seminars and was loaded?? with knowledge)
Wow! That is a serious penalty. It is three to six around here. Three if in an
aperture and six if out in the open.
Andthe Flex-o-fold is a geared prop so the blades open together and close
together. I have not heard of any of them not opening, unless they have been
sitting around so long
It is a barber hauler, but you have to have something to attach it to that
is closer to the cabin, thus a hole or ring, or something.
Gary
- Original Message -
From: Leslie Paal via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: Ed Dooley edoo...@madriver.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent:
I'll let the skilled folks chime in with more specific answers, but I can
relate what one of our handy guys did to his Cal 34 a few years ago. It is
something you could do to get started.
Where the cabin roof was soggy, he covered the boat (in the water for the
winter) and put a heater inside.
Curtis, I agree with you. I race on a J-80 (and on my 30-1), and I cannot
imagine that the new 30 will ever be a 'legend'. Our boats are excellent
all-purpose boats - race, cruise, camp, sturdy, etc. The new 30 may have 100
takers in a sea of similar one-design sportboats. We have over 600 of
I get Sail (like the handy hints and upgrade projects and the 'what we did
right/wrong' articles) and Sailing World (the racing rules discussions and
diagrams are good learning tools).
Gary
- Original Message -
From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent:
Mine is number 593 and Curtis has a low 600 number.
Gary
- Original Message -
From: Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: Curtis cpt.b...@gmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 20, 2015 12:07 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 30 one design
Anyone know
By the way, hull number 1 is still sailing on the Chesapeake.
Gary
- Original Message -
From: Nate Flesness via CnC-List
To: Hoyt, Mike ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 20, 2015 9:08 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 30 one design
The Canadian Yachting magazine
I don't know about flushing the engine with fresh water (I'm in brackish water
- mid Chesapeake) but I plan on putting a T valve in my water intake before
next splash so I can easily hook up a hose to ingest anti-freeze. The intake
hose seems to get bonded to the thru-hull and I'm tired of
Yes, but that was a 30-2. Does it count?
Gary
30-1
- Original Message -
From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List
To: Curtis ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 20, 2015 2:48 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 30 one design
Sadly, one 30 was lost in a fire last week:
I checked with our local CBYRA handicapper. Chesapeake Bay rates asyms more
by sail area than any other single criteria. The other adjustment area is
whether the sail can be adjusted
From some local racers: we have three Cal 40s's here on the mid-Eastern
Shore. All three do off-shore
Yours is hull number 671, built in 1981 (don't know the month, but I think it
is May). Mine is ZZC 30 593 M 80 B. So, it looks like they made 77 boats in
little more than a year.
Gary
- Original Message -
From: Curtis via CnC-List
To: Hoyt, Mike ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent:
Those of you who are computer literate: this is kind of a boat question - a
member in our museum's model boat club is interested in getting an easy to use
2D drafting program. He is leading the task to design and prepare a kit to
build a model of one of our oyster 'buy' boats which used to be
in the transom), I'd say the
ID as a 29-1 is correct.
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
CC 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
On 20 January 2015 at 12:20, Gary Nylander via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
Yes, but that was a 30-2. Does it count?
Gary
30-1
- Original Message
I have the Flex. I think it is a 14.5 x 10, but I'll look tomorrow. It is a
block away. I assume Yanmar 2QM15? I liked the workmanship on the Flex better
than the Gori. But - years ago.
Gary
- Original Message -
From: Alan Lombard via CnC-List
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent:
An unintended jibe broke mine. After talking to some welders, who said the cast
metal was hard to work with, I had a local guy fabricate one out of stainless
(all that about 15 years ago) - it still looks new.
Gary
- Original Message -
From: Paul Fountain via CnC-List
To:
Join the club. We (and Curtis comments later) have a boat with a flat
transom. Thus, we can notice the squat more than those with boats with
extended sterns and reverse transoms. Mine (30-1) splatters diesel crud all
over the bottom half of the transom as I am motoring at any speed at all. I
It depends on the jib. On some boats (mine), you can move the car forward like
Joel says, on others (like the J-24 I used to race on and the J-80 I race on
now) you have a separate short track inside the shrouds to run the jib (blade
type) through.
Gary
- Original Message -
From:
If you buy a brand new Garhauer, you can have them custom make the mast and
boom plates for attaching it for that price. Thus, having to fabricate that
yourself, the old one should be discounted a bunch! I would start at half of
what it cost new (back in the day) and then figure out how much it
As I said - pick a percentage and wait for the squawking.
In our Herring Island fleet, we use the Annapolis to St. Michaels race as one
of our long distance races. Depending on club entrants for that race, we can
have boats in multiple PHRF classes ranging from PHRF A2 through PHRF C/D.
Plus,
Rick, you probably have seen some of my earlier postings from earlier debates.
We have two small fleets around St. Michaels. Our Herring Island Sailing Fleet
uses a 15% rating adjustment for non spinnaker boats, with a 7.5% adjustment if
the boat has a cruising spinnaker (gennaker?) tacked to
The three local RC's I race with have no specific rules about whisker poles,
thus rely on PHRF definition which says it cannot be longer than J without
penalty. An adjustable pole must be marked at J.
Gary Nylander
30-1
St. Michaels Maryland
- Original Message -
From: Chuck S via
On the Eastern Shore, a local J-80 was dry sailed. If she was launched for a
Wednesday race, she needed a quick 'floss' (dragging a bed sheet from side to
side) for Saturday. Last year, we (another J-80) had one year old Vivid and a
diver every other week - noticed some drag so had the diver
There is a national database of PHRF ratings, giving the highest, lowest, and
average for each boat. I don't think it has 'stock' boats only, meaning the
range could include modifications or rating adjustments.
Look at USSailing and then PHRF, and you should find it.
Gary
St. Michaels, MD
Damn When the PO's rocket scientists rewired my 1980 version, they
separated the panels (AC and DC) and put stud type buses on the DC side - both
for the red wires and the black. And they trimmed the wires to make a great
looking back of the panel. But.. the wires are too short to hook
List.
Gary
- Original Message -
From: John Irvin via CnC-List
To: Dennis C. ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Friday, March 13, 2015 6:53 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Email List or Forum
I'd stay with the list, Stu
You never know what you're going t learn and it's easy to
That is apparently what someone did in the past. They separated the AC and DC
panels, updated them and enclosed them with boxes. The problem is they placed
the ground post for the DC circuit on the back side of the panel - almost in
the middle. Then they sized the wiring to fit. So, my 20+
Me too, but there is the little matter of being on the hard.
Gary
- Original Message -
From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List
To: Della Barba, Joe ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Thursday, March 12, 2015 1:02 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List I guess no sailing this weekend
Glad I am
I asked a friend who has done the trip a number of times and he agrees with
Tim. If your inflatable is on deck or davits and ready to go - equipped with a
ditch bag and radio - plus your personal locator - and a good radio with a high
antenna you should be OK. I would assume you have a good way
Barbeque lighter lasts longer and you can have a bigger flame.
Gary
Maryland
- Original Message -
From: Bill Bina via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Saturday, March 28, 2015 7:16 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cordless heat gun for heat-shrink tubing
A
Amen to that. I have had the Garhauer rigid vang for many years on my 30-1
(probably one size up from what would work on a 27) and race on a J-80 with a
boomkicker. I find the Garhauer or others like it (raced on another J-80 with a
Harken) to be much easier to use and adjust than the
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