Re: [lace] miracourt lace?
Does anyone know anything about this kind of lace? I have a few pieces, but know little about it. Any knowledge is appreciated! Try http://lace.lacefairy.com/International/Mirecourt.html Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Re: 1630s lace
But all the info booklet says is that the lace is 17th century; how much of it was of the 3rd decade of that century is unclear, but most (if not all) of the lace looks to be somewhat later (end of the century, rather than beginning). Some of the laces in "Caroluskantjes" are marked as to whether they're from the 1st half of the 17th century (1/2 17de eeuw) or the 2nd half of the century (2/2 17de eeuw). Not all, but some, in particular pattern #26 and #27 which show slightly deeper scallops. Also some of the plaited laces are from the 1st half of the century. For a 1630s recreation, though, I'd be more inclined to go with the reticella (embroidered cutwork) laces, perhaps with a simple plaited bobbin lace edge. I believe the original post didn't specify that the lace had to be handmade, and in the 1980s, when the deep pointed laces had some popularity, there were some reasonable machine imitations made. Perhaps some stores still have this type of trim in stock. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Lacis
The various names I've seen are: lacis, filet lacis, guipure d'art. I have the impression that the words "filet" refers to a square mesh (since it is also used to describe the form of crochet which imitates true filet lacis. I agree that you will see filet and lacis referring to the same thing - lace made by darning designs into square net. I think historically this descended from a drawn thread work technique that looks very similar, and I wonder if the term has ever also applied to that. Interestingly, in French the verb "filet" actually means to spin flax(!) and the noun "filet" means a very thin thread. The word "guipure" in lacemaking usually refers to a lace, either needle or bobbin, which has a ground made of bars (buttonholed, braided or purl pin bars) as opposed to a mesh made of one or two threads. Why or how that word "guipure" has been applied to filet lacis is a mystery to me. In my French dictionary the word "guipure" means pillow lace or point lace (aka bobbin lace with point ground). Period. That makes sense to me because I have seen the word "guipure" used to refer to a variety of bobbin laces, from Cluny to Chantilly and everything in between. I have not heard of it being restricted to lace with barred ground. I have heard that the word refers to a type of design, rather than a method of making. However, I think all these different things we hear just mean that nobody really knew for sure, they were all trying to figure out what it meant because they heard it used in so many ways. In English, the Concise Oxford dictionary says "guipure" is a "heavy lace of linen pieces joined by embroidery". So I think it has referred to different lace techniques at different times. Hope this helps By the way, kudos to anyone brave enough to teach lacis. I've seen the making of the ground treated a number of different ways, from the traditional net-making stitch (incredibly boring and yes, I've done it) to laying threads across a card in one direction and then knotting them in another direction, which appeared in Piecework some years ago - and I found this method absolutely impossible to do evenly. You have to go through so much tedium just to get the ground that IMHO the fun part - darning in the design - almost isn't worth it. I would love to find 100% cotton premade square knotted net at 6 mesh/inch - I know it's available somewhere in the world (Australia, possibly) but I don't like to buy anything so expensive without seeing it first, so I've never ordered any. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] photography
I agree. I have been looking at digital cameras& was afraid of just what was discussed here. When I was looking to buy a digital camera, I went to some of the digital camera review pages. Examples are: http://www.dpreview.com , http://www.pcphotoreview.com and http://www.megapixel.net If you go to one of these websites and find the camera you're thinking of buying (or in my case, the 3 cameras I was trying to choose between) you can read reviews of the camera. Reviews by people who don't work for the manufacturer are really important. I learned a lot from reading these, including the fact that one of the cameras I was thinking of was famous for its software problems. (It wasn't the Nikon, it was another one but I don't want to say which one because they may have fixed the problem by now.) Hope this helps. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] photography
I was attempting to photograph some lace with my new digital camera specifically bought for lace photography- can get within 1.3 inch. My problem was that my shadow keeps marring the picture as I bend over the lace. How do others deal with this? The great thing about digitals is that you can experiment for free. I have a couple of suggestions: - Try putting a second light to one side, so that its light rakes across the lace and any shadow it casts isn't anywhere near your lace. (A raking light to one side also helps define the lace as the shadows cast by the threads are more apparent) - If your camera has a timer, take the picture with the timer and stand back. Of course, this requires that your camera be sitting on something - I usually make do with sitting it on the edge of a pile of books when I go that close, but there are little short tripods that are specifically designed for macro photography (if you buy one of these, make sure your camera can be screwed onto it). Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Kiki Smith
deluge the museum with irate e-mails demanding to know whether "no doilies were hurt" in making this art? Yes, definitely. If they're linen, let's also include a diatribe about how many flax plants were killed to make the fibre ;-) The artwork I've seen that destroys lace seems to rid the world of the poorest lace first. After all, the artist doesn't want to pay top dollar for good quality lace - the 50 cent doilies at the garage sale are just fine for her purposes. And a huge amount of doilies were produced during the great doily-making age (roughly 1850 to 1950) - let's face it, there is no need for thousands of copies of Coats' Wheat Sheaf Pattern. Let's all agree that the one I made is good enough for a museum and let the rest go. :-) I would be upset if I saw 18th century Valenciennes being destroyed in that way, or any other top-quality laces. The best way to prevent that from happening is by paying a good price for them, so the artist will buy something else. This discussion reminds me of what happened when the price of new, primed canvases soared during the 20th century - thousands of poorer-quality paintings - even from as early as the 17th century - were painted over to provide a new canvas backing, so that poor-quality 20th century paintings could go over top. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] communism good for lace
Apart from learning to make lace she had to go to an art school and a textile school ( higher education). I don't know why the countries behind the Iron Curtain put such an emphasis on art and craft skills, but there is no denying they did. I was a museum docent during an international tapestry exhibit, and we had tapestry artists from the former East Germany who were paid a fairly substantial wage (enough to raise a family on in their country) just to produce tapestries. Naturally they produced many excellent, good-quality tapestries, as they were able to make it a full-time occupation. Higher education in textiles and art is rare in the west (I know there are some programs, but again, not a systematic approach and usually focussed on fine art rather than textiles.) In those countries that have fairly recently returned to capitalism, it will be interesting to see whether this type of education and training is maintained, or whether it slowly diminishes and disappears over time. That will tell us a lot about whether the emphasis on art & craft skills was a product of individual choice, or of government intervention. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] expensive tatting shuttle!
Sally and anybody else who is interested: The village of Mauchline has its own website, with an article that will tell you all about mauchline ware: http://www.mauchlinevillage.co.uk/ware.html I remember seeing a mauchline ware box on the Antiques Roadshow and the expert did exclaim how much was being paid by collectors for what were, originally, extremely cheap little souvenirs and knick-knacks. Sally wrote: The tatting shuttle is mauchline, whatever that is. I regularly follow antique woodenware auctions on ebay and anything labeled mauchline goes for lots and lots of money. The term mauchline must be well defined, because the sellers and buyers exchange so much money with so much confidence. I've never seen a mauchline tatting shuttle up for auction and that one is in very good shape so that's part of the reason for the price. I've seen mauchline ware boxes of all sizes and shapes, spectacles cases, pots, napkin rings, egg cups. I think they are old tourist souvenirs. I would love to have a spectacles case for my lace tools but I can't imagine spending that much money for a small case. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] List Behaviour
Clay wrote: I don't know if the weather is the culprit or not. But I do know that in the last month, several people have gotten fed up with the list because of personal attacks, name-calling, and other "not nice" behavior. I think it's the weather. Maybe even lack of sunlight. I was recently privately flamed for something that was just a musing on an inoffensive topic. Last year I was unlucky enough to work for someone who communicated by email and had a really brusque style. I noticed that my brain actually supplied a tone of voice to go with the message! I heard her speaking to me, but since my own brain supplied the tone it changed with my mood. If she sent "the letter is in the file" one day I might hear that in a calm, reasonable tone, and another day I might hear an angry "the **letter** is in the **file** (you !&#(@$*( fool you...)" And of course I'd get angry because not only was she mean to me, but in fact the letter was *not* in the file, which is why I had emailed her in the first place. I must admit, though, that I never allowed my irritation to make me be rude in return. So I guess the reason for all this rambling is a recommendation that you should just wait a day or so before you send that flame! And, re-read the original message before you compose your angry post, because you might just have been listening to your own voice rather than the poster's voice. By the way, I have a feature on my e-mail that allows me to send messages automatically to another mailbox. If someone's posts really irritate you, you can just set up your email to send that person's posts to Trash before you see them. Then you won't have to deprive yourself of the entire list just to avoid the person who is your pet peeve. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Twined Gimp
I've uploaded a scan of a corner of my Seashore mat with the twined gimp Thanks, Noelene. One picture *is* worth a thousand words - although I've done twined gimp before in Russian tape lace, I wasn't able to envision how it would work in Torchon until I saw the photo. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] strange thing on ebay
Here's a weird thing: anyone know what this is? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/ eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3703562790&category=2219 I haven't heard anyone else comment on this - so I'd say, No, no one has any idea what it is. I'm pretty sure its not for tatting, because something that wide, even if it does hold thread, isn't going to be a very effective shuttle. How would you manipulate it? Why choose a square object to try to put through a loop quickly when you could have a rounded object? The vendor doesn't say if it opens or if the interior is filled at all. Are we looking at a single block of wood with a slit all around or are we looking at two pieces of wood that are held together at some point? If it is a single piece of wood, the only thing it reminds me of is a pom-pom or tassel maker (you would wind thread around the piece and slip the scissors into the slot to cut the thread all one length). If it is two pieces of wood held together, then I would point out that on the back you can see one place near one corner where there is a single peg through the wood. If it is the case that this peg holds the thing together and the rest of the space is empty, then I'd suggest we're looking at some sort of a cover for notepaper or a dance card or something like that. In that case the two covers should swing apart, and come apart for you to replace the paper or card. If the covers don't swing apart now, it could be that they used to, and the peg has swollen and become immovable and nobody wants to force it. Otherwise, the purpose of this item baffles me. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] New book
I have just checked the Amazon site here in UK and the New book due out on April 29th-30th Lace from the V&A museum by Clare Browne ISBN 1-85177-418-1 Published price £30 is on Amazon at £21. This book seems to be published in North America by Harry N. Abrams, as I have found it on the Chapters.Indigo site (Canadian bookseller) under ISBN #0810966239, publishing in May, 2004. That's good news, because if Abrams is putting it out then more booksellers here will stock it and most booksellers will be able to order it. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Supplier of Egyptian Cotton, Canada
Barbara wrote: I don't keep a note of US suppliers and now I need one! Can anyone tell me where someone living in Vancouver can obtain Egyptian Cotton, preferably the smaller threads 180/2, 160/2. This is for making ropes for model ship-building! Hi Barbara: He can try Kathy at RainCity Lace Supplies in Vancouver, BC, *Canada*. Kathy has a variety of things and since we did Honiton last year, may have these very fine threads in stock. Her e-mail is: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada, which is not in the US) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Free stuff for Stitchers
Hi Janice: Check when it was published and if it's been updated. I rather think this book is about 6 years old, which might explain the absence of the Lacefairy. (I could be wrong, of course - this could be a totally different book, but it sounds like one I reviewed for my embroiderer's guild newsletter a long time ago.) Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) On Monday, March 22, 2004, at 04:58 PM, Janice Blair wrote: so I ordered a few quilting books and a book called "Free Stuff for Stitchers on the Internet" by Judy Heim and Gloria Hansen #325965X $2.95. I turned to the index and looked for "lace" and it has web addresses for most of the popular sites of magazines, museums and some associations such as Lace Guild and IOLI, plus entries for Steph Peters site and under Lacemaking discussions it has Arachne & Tatchat. I was surprised that Lacefairy is not listed as far as I can see but I have not read the book from cover to cover yet. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Colour in Lace
it's always the green thread that falls apart. I have found this with wool, too: if you work with the Appleton crewel wool (for embroidery), the sea-greens are much thinner and more prone to breakage than any other colour. The greens that are not sea-green are just as strong as the other colours - it always seems to be the sea-green that's the problem. I asked around about this once, and was told that in order to get a nice sea-green the wool has to go through more than dyeing processes than for the other colours. Each dyeing process requires mordanting, which weakens the fibre somewhat, and the result is that the sea-green is extra-weak compared to the other wools that go through fewer processes. Perhaps it is the same for other fibres. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Spring Lace Day - Richmond Area Lacemakers
Just a note to let everyone in the Pacific Northwest / BC Lower Mainland and Vancouver Island areas know that we're having a lace day on Sunday, April 18th. For full information and a map, please email me privately. Thanks. Adele [EMAIL PROTECTED] North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Thread opinions wanted
Robin wrote: I've never heard any forbidding edict against embroidery floss. Just a number of people who pointed out how hard it is to get BL-length single plies out of that 6-ply skein. and Joy wrote: I just pulled one of the threads, and the entire skein coiled up on it, then the coil dropped off and unwound, ready to straighten out and pull out another thread. I agree with Joy - that's how I separate floss, and I can't understand why people have so much trouble with it. Maybe the people who have problems are trying to unwind it from the top or something? Try it the way Joy describes - it's much easier. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Rare LACEMAKER'S OIL LAMP
Alice Howell wrote: There is a real lacemaker's globe on the postcard on this auction: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2237591905 Alice, I *love* this picture! Not only seeing a lacemakers lamp setup as it might have been used (though her candle is burnt way too low to be effective) but for the big grin on her kindly face! Most of the old lacemakers look so solemn, if not downright grim, in their old photos. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] old French bobbins on ebay...
Clay Blackwell wrote: But there is a listing on ebay now which bobbin collectors should see... 24 of those old "onion" bulbed bobbins in two different woods.. Would any of our French-speaking members care to comment on the sellers' description: "24 bobbines en bois d’oliviers qui servaient à fabriquer les broderies sur un metier de passementerie"?? Does this seller know that these are lacemaking bobbins? Interesting that the seller uses "bobbines" rather than "fuseaux" which I always thought was the French word for lacemaking bobbin. And, as far as my French takes me, the description says "[bobbins]... that were used to make passementerie embroideries". I've never completely understood what is passementerie and what isn't, but I think it's some kind of couched ribbon ... Adele, seeking enlightenment in North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Bobbin "parking" and "yet more questions"
Also, what bad things happen when your bobbins are too small or too large for the thread size? If too small, you are continually running out of thread because you can't put very many inches of a thick thread on, say, a Honiton or other bobbin that has a small and shallow area for thread. Also, your half hitches will be more likely to slip off the bobbin if (1) the bobbin is too small, or (2) too light for the thread. If the bobbin is too heavy, your threads may break. When I started lacemaking I used spangled bobbins that I made myself and put too many beads on - they were far too heavy for the thread, which took only the slightest pressure to break. Poor tension: In bobbin lace, some of your tension is made and held by the bobbins hanging off the end of the thread. If your bobbin is too lightweight, you will lose that tension. You might notice very little difference in your lace as a result, or you might notice a lot - it depends on how your own working technique and work habits. I now use many different styles of bobbin, but they all fall into two categories: "regular" size, which I use for heavier threads (say, 40/2 cotton or bigger) and "teeny" size (Binche, honiton, etc) that I use for fine threads - 80/2 or thinner. Anything in between can be used on either size, in my opinion. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Preferred Pillow Shapes?
I am looking at starting to order my equipment and was wondering what people prefered for a pillow shape and which is considered most versatile. Hi Janet: Cookie: Advantages: can make lace in any direction - useful for square edgings, doilies, etc. as well as straight edgings. Will usefully accommodate far more bobbins than the *average* roller pillow. (I say average because there are gigantic roller pillows that have far more space on them.) Also can be quite cheap - some are made out of house insulation (not the fibreglass, the boards) Even so, these are useful pillows and are very lightweight and inexpensive. There are also more expensive cookie pillows, of course, depending on how they're made and what they're made of. European cookie pillows stuffed with seagrass can run into hundreds of dollars (CDN). Disadvantages: you will have to move up a straight edging every 4 to 6 inches. This is a tedious process, but quite do-able. There are various ways of coping with the need to move your lace in progress. A possible problem - be careful not to get too large a cookie pillow, as you can wind up having to reach quite far forward in order to make your lace, which is awkward and tiring. Roller pillow: Advantages: You can happily make yards and yards of an edging without having to move your lace. These pillows can be quite attractive, pretty objects, and often have little extras, like drawers in the back, or extra decorations (my own is tole-painted on the back) They are usually a more compact size than the cookie pillows. Disadvantages: you need to make your pricking meet itself on the roller so you can just keep going around and around. This is done in several ways - the main methods are padding out the roller to exactly the right width, or making two prickings that meet and are used one after the other (I use this method). Number of pairs: generally the useful working space is a fan-shape spreading out from the edges of the roller, and this space can be quite narrow. Bobbins not being used can be placed off the back edge of the pillow. Nevertheless, I find with my French roller pillow that I cannot easily use more than about 23 pairs of bobbins, while with a good-sized cookie pillow I can easily use 40-50 pairs. There are several other pillow shapes around the world, but these are the two main types you will find advertised. I'm sure there are other considerations that I haven't thought of. I'm sure some other Arachnes will fill you in! Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Lace magazine - cover has inspired me to Honiton
Hi Viv: I haven't seen the Lace Guild magazine yet, but as to your other questions: I'd like your ideas on the question "Do I need the right equipment?" I know that if I take to this particular style of lace I would, but until I know I wouldn't want to buy another pillow and a set of new bobbins. Traditional Honiton uses very fine threads, and involves many sewings. You therefore need very lightweight bobbins that are smooth so they don't snag & break the threads when you do the sewings. They do not have to be traditional Honiton bobbins. I have made fine Honiton successfully with Binche bobbins and some very lightweight Swiss bobbins I happen to have, as well as unspangled Midlands bobbins, though if they're unfinished you'll have to be careful not to snag them. As for pillows: I learned on a straw-filled pillow, and they're nice if you can easily get one cheap. I still have my first, all-too-ambitious Honiton project sitting on that straw-filled pillow (it's been 23 years, now), so I use my standard cookie pillows for my newer (and less ambitious) projects. When I did my first attempts at Milanese braids I enlarged the prickings and used a thicker thread. What would the pitfalls of doing this as a complete Honiton beginner? Because Honiton uses such fine threads, it uses techniques that can be unsightly with thicker threads. For example, you may be directed to finish off 6 pairs of threads by bunching them together, tying threads around the bundle several times, and cutting off. That's pretty well invisible if you're using 170/2 thread - if you're using Pearl Cotton #8 it makes a really big bump! Probably you'd use some thread in between these two extremes, but I'd say that you may well do better to use a 100/2 or 80/2 for your first attempts, so you get something nice without having much of a problem with your thread breaking. Hope this helps. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] V & A Lace book - postage
Just a reminder to those who want the new V&A lace book by Clare Brown but don't want to pay the mail charges from England: Way back in February when we talked about this book, I mentioned that it was being simultaneously published in the US by Harry Abrams. In fact, I just bought it from chapters.indigo (a canadian bookseller) and it cost me $47 CDN, which at current rates of exchange is about 19 british pounds or about $35 US. They threw in the shipping for free because the order was over $39 Cdn. If you want to try looking for it at your local booksellers, the ISBN of the US publication is 0810966239. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Lace mixed with other media
The question is how does shellac effect the textile over a period of time? Each basket is preserved (to some degree) by a coating of shellac. Hi Dianna: I can't quite tell from your posting if you are coating the tatting with shellac, or if you are coating only the baskets with shellac and then adding the tatting to the baskets. I think shellac is probably a little acidic, since it is made from scale insect secretions, and things animals produce do tend to be acidic. But, shellac gives a hard surface that doesn't break down easily, so it should not easily affect tatting that touches it. If the tatting isn't shellacked itself, I wouldn't worry about it any more than I'd worry about tatting touching a varnished table (traditional varnish is made with shellac). I don't think I'd shellac the tatting, though. You may not see it on your baskets, but even so-called "clear" shellac gives an amber cast to what it covers. Hope this helps. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Wedding Bobbins
Just found this, and I've never heard of it before: can anyone verify it? Under 'June', she collects wedding traditions, and there is a piece about the contents of the bride chest - apart from the usual linens and so on. "In their marriage-chests, or 'bride-wains', many girls in medieval Britain kept lucky lace-making bobbins carved from bones from successful past wedding feasts they'd attended." I can't verify it - but I'm doubtful. Like Linda, I'd like to see the source. And if the source is dated after medieval times, I'd like to see the source's source. Never mind that there's little evidence that bobbin lacemaking even existed in medieval times, I just can't see it being a normal thing for the kitchen staff to field several, if not many, requests from women at the feast for portions of the bones to take home to make into bobbins. And surely if it were so we would have read about this tradition in lace history books. I say bah, humbug! Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Wedding Bobbins
Just on this one point - I've noticed that many historians who specialise in Modern History will count the English Medieval period as ending at the accession of James I; that is, at the end of the Tudor dynasty. My Oxford reference dictionaries define the medieval period as being from the 5th to the 15th centuries - ie, roughly from 401 - 1500 AD, and I think that's the generally accepted meaning of the term. The Oxford Illustrated History of England cuts off the Middle Ages with the accession of the Tudor dynasty. I don't doubt your veracity - but if I knew those historians, I'd argue the point! Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Seven one more time!
Now *that's* a project big enough for arachne! Seven people make wives, forty-nine beginners make sacks (each in a different color and/or ground stitch), 343 people make cats, 2,401 people make kittens. B-D Yes, but the cats and the kittens are in the sacks. And I'm sure you wouldn't see all the 49 sacks at one time - if I were carrying 7 sacks some of them would be hidden behind my body and behind the other sacks. But I also can't imagine that all the sacks would stay closed with so many irritated kitties inside, so I think you'd see: 1 man 7 wives, a number of sacks appearing from behind the wive's backs or lying on the roadside where somebody dropped one and hasn't noticed yet a few cats and kittens who have managed to make their escape, running every which way ... That makes a great subject for a group project because the number of objects isn't pre-determined: dedicated trustworthy volunteers would make the man (who I bet is carrying *nothing*) and his rather harried 7 wives, lots of people could make sacks and you could have a few cat-makers, but if any of the sacks or cats didn't get made you wouldn't have a problem. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] survey UFO
( I remember a competition at IOLI one year for the oldest UFO that one intended to finish. The winner was 23 years. H... that's the age of my oldest UFO - a Honiton piece that I started in 1981 after I got Elsie Luxton's book. I was quite new to lace at the time and needed far more direction than was in the book, but I did manage about 1/3 of her large sampler. And there it has sat ever since. I still intend to finish it. In the meantime, I am busy making a travel pillow based on one I saw at my last lace meeting. Some of the Vancouver Island lacemakers made them, though I don't know who did the design. I made my own design. A small bolster sits inside a box and a large front & back apron folds up to make something that looks like a rather tall handbag. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] wire lace brooch
Laura: I haven't seen Diana's pattern, but I would think that "10 pair 32 gauge 5 feet divided" would mean 10 pairs of bobbins, each pair wound with a total of 5 feet of 32 gauge wire. I would interpret the "divided" to mean that some of the 5 feet of wire is on one bobbin, some on the other bobbin of the pair. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] other ways to stack bobbins
The advantage over the fabric books is that you have a rigid layer between each layer of bobbins. Hi Robin: Proof that we all make lace in different ways - I *like* using strips of fabric between the layers *because* then the layers are lumpy and my continental bobbins stay where I put them! Same technique, opposite reaction. ;-) I don't use a prepared "book" though - I just use extra cover cloths or strips of cloth that I lay over my bobbins as needed to start more layers. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] political statements
The lace list is hardly the place to express one's political opinions.. I think we decided that anyone who had a complaint about the list should address it **privately** to Avital, who would deal with it. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Re: Galerie Vlasta
she uses clear polyurethane, same as for furniture. I kid you not... Historians and conservationists - weep A Czech lacemaker who had immigrated to Canada and was showing her stuff at our (now-defunct) Craft Museum used any old hard plastic (like empty Tic-Tac boxes) which she ***melted in acetone*** ... apparently in Czechoslovakia it was a lot easier for her to get hold of acetone and hard plastic than anything we might use. So her procedure was something like this - put the hard plastic in the acetone, wait til it disintegrated, then dip in your lace and put your lace into position - the acetone would dissipate, leaving your dry lace infused with hard plastic. No word about how long it would last. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Muslin (OT but short)
But then we also use the word muslin to refer to light-weight white cotton of a normal weave (as per the Regency-era dresses mentioned by Jane Austen)... I know it's not lace, but I have to pop in a word on the Jane Austen-era "muslin". I recently did a lot of research on late Georgian fashion for a talk I gave to the Jane Austen Society, and actual fashion magazines from the era indicate that "muslin" was a term widely applied to a number of different cotton fabrics in a variety of weights. Fashion descriptions of the time include phrases like "heavy-weight muslin", "jaconet muslin" and "cambric muslin". These are very different fabrics from what we currently think of as muslin, whether we are North American or English or Australian. Some are more tightly woven than we'd think, some are made of heavier thread. (Not all of those dresses were as light and filmy as you'd think!) Some muslin dresses were even fairly warm, if made from the heavy-weight muslin. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] "Om en om"
Can anyone tell me whether the pattern "Om en om" is from De Linnenkast 3 or De Linnenkast 4? (for the baffled: these are OIDFA pattern pack publications). I took it out to make it and now I want to put it back in the right place; there doesn't seem to be any index in either pack and it is difficult to count the patterns in the pack, so I'm lost! Thanks for your help. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] ? Ariane thread substitute
I love Michel Jourde's patterns from Lace Express and he favours Ariane thread. Could someone please suggest a possible alternate thread? Ariane is a long-staple Egyptian cotton thread, like Aurifil's Mako cotton. You could use that, or you could also use a lot of other cotton threads. Are you looking for any particular size of thread? Ariane comes in several different sizes - if you could say which size you want you might get some more helpful suggestions. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] I'm being a bit dim here ...
Hi Jen: I think there are a lot of people on the list who've forgotten the instructions, - here goes: The instructions are at http://www.arachne.com/list_instructions.html Unsubscribing is exactly the same as subscribing, except that you put 'unsubscribe' where there is 'subscribe' in the directions: - send an e-mail message to [EMAIL PROTECTED] - the body of the message should read unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you get the regular non-digest version. - the program ignores the subject line, so don't worry about that - If you get the digest, the message should be unsubscribe lace-digest [EMAIL PROTECTED] - If you're on lace-chat, the directions follow the same logic Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] 16th century bobbin on ebay???
Hi Clay: I'm normally the most suspicious antiques shopper you'd ever see, and I'd certainly politely ask the seller for the provenance of the bobbin if I were going to bid on it. It would be interesting to see what the seller said. I'd also check what the seller means by "16th-century" because a lot of people think that means the 1600s, not the 1500s. If by "dug" the seller means that this bobbin was lying on its own in the open ground for a few centuries, I'd agree that the condition is entirely too good for that. But, it could have been found inside the floor of a 16th century home, for example, in which case it would be dirty and dry but not necessarily otherwise damaged. For shape, I don't think it's out of range for a bobbin from the 1600s, and maybe even the 1500s, because we have so little information on bobbin shapes from that time. Re: the turning: yes, it's true lacemaking was still in its early stages, but not lathe-turning. Craftsmen had been making weaving bobbins for centuries, ditto fine turnings for a number of other wooden implements. So I don't think that argument stands up too well. But, I'd still join you in the skeptical line, though with an open mind ;0) Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) Clay wrote: I came across the following on ebay today: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/ eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=114&item=6112829488 Now, I must say I'm VERY skeptical. (1) 16th century? says who?? This is an awfully sophisticated turning for a bobbin used in an art form which was merely decades old at the time. (2) for a "dug" bobbin, the sharp edges of the turnings are awfully crisp and clean... (3) dug from *where*??? this bobbin doesn't look like anything I'm familiar with from "way back"... - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Haven't a clue!
I agree with Avital - it appears to be some sort of teneriffe form. But I'm mystified about what that metal "thing" is on the handle. I'm wondering if it isn't some method of securing the little spool to a larger stand. You would press the tangs together, insert the spool onto some sort of rod, and then release the tangs to lock the form in place. Or else it could be a way of attaching the metal disc that fills the centre of the form. It looks like it might come off. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] cross-stitch fabric
I'm looking for cheap linen fabric to put lace edgings on. What's the difference between cross-stitch fabric and normal fabric, and would it make any sense to put lace edgings on it? Cross stitch fabric is woven to have exactly the advertised number of threads per inch, with the same number of threads per inch in both directions. Normal fabric isn't woven to those standards, but that doesn't matter if you're not cross-stitching it. Put your lace edging on any fabric you think looks good. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] cross-stitch fabric
That said, I'd try to get better fabric if I had any idea how to tell which one that is. It seems like just trying to buy more expensive fabric instead isn't the best idea, so for now I'll just get some cheap stuff to practice with, and maybe figure out the quality later. Square inch for square inch, cross stitch fabric is *much* more expensive than dress/shirt fabric. However, you *can* buy a small square of cross stitch fabric while you'll need to buy the full width of dress fabric. Another thing to note - some of the cross stitch fabrics (not all of them) are deliberately loosely-woven. The idea is that you're going to fill in the looseness with your cross stitching. But if you don't use the fabric for that purpose, it can be too loosely woven to look good. It can also be too loosely woven for your edging stitches to look nice. That's the problem with buying online - even with photos you can't be sure of what you're getting until you've got it. Try looking around for your linen, if you can. I got 6 linen cocktail napkins, new, at an antique store for $10.00 total. I once got 54" wide fine handkerchief linen for $5 a yard at an outlet store for a fashion design studio. Being the end of summer, now is a good time to find linen fabric on sale. Stores selling used clothing may also have some linen clothes on cheap. By the way, does anyone know if cross-stitch fabric is normally higher or lower quality than other fabric? It's hard to define what makes quality. They're just different, like peaches and nectarines. For sewing on your lace, the most important thing is what Tamara said about the fabric being the right weight for the lace. Just my 2 cents, Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] pattern copyright and adaptations
Hi Weronika - you raised a couple of interesting questions. Copyright law recognizes that there is a process by which a copyright image or creation becomes changed, changed again, and further changed, and eventually is no longer the original image or creation at all. Unfortunately there is no hard-and-fast way to decide exactly where "adaptation" stops and "inspired by" begins. If I take an edging pattern I found in a book, and make a bookmark pattern that basically consists of two pieces of that edging, with some changes, is that an adaptation of the pattern, or what is it called? And can I put the pricking on my website? What if I made my pricking by scanning the book pattern and making changes with a graphics program? And what if I drew it by myself without any scanning? Your bookmark sounds like an adaptation to me. If you had looked at a photo of a finished piece and said to yourself "gosh, I bet I could draw a pattern like that" and then did, without using any published pattern as a guide, then that is your creation and the copyright is yours. But, you used the published pattern to help you create your own pricking and so you are adapting the published pattern and you may only use that for yourself. It doesn't matter whether you used the pattern by scanning it or by copying the dots by hand - it's still somebody else's pattern. Putting that pricking onto your website is a violation of copyright because you are basically republishing somebody else's pattern. But, you could put photos of your finished lace onto your website, with a credit to the book. Also, are all designs in books automatically copyright? If the design was done for the book, the designer (might be the author, might be somebody else) holds the copyright. But, if a book shows, for example, historical pieces of lace, nobody gets copyright on that design just because they put it in a book, but there is still a copyright on the *presentation* of that design - the photograph or drawing that appears in the book. So, you couldn't just scan the photo straight out of the book and put it up on your website, for example, but you could take a look at the photo and use the old lace as inspiration for a new pattern you drew yourself, and you would have the copyright on that. For example, in the Milanese books by Read and Kincaid there are lots of Milanese braid designs - I guess I don't really know, but I was assuming that they didn't personally design all the braids, but that some of them were just traditional Milanese braids. Can I use these braids in my patterns (including "patterns" that are just a straight piece of braid for a bookmark ) without copyright infringement? If I draw diagrams by myself, can I put them on my webpage? The difference is between illustrating a simple technique and a design. For example, if you learn from the book how to do the meandering braid, then you are welcome to use the meander design in your own patterns, just as you would be if you learned, say, cloth stitch or half stitch from the book. But, you have to draw your own pattern, even if it is just a straight strip with the meander technique in it. You can't just copy (hand or scanning) the ones from the book. Designs are more complex and may include many techniques - the actual designs, like "Tie Ends" or the "Braid Sampler" are of course copyright. These are just my opinions based on a fair amount of time spent reading up on copyright (and I have a friend who juggles copyright laws for a living). The reason lawyers make lots of money is that there are always fine shadings of meaning and grey areas that may be argued until the cows come home. And, as Stephanie has pointed out, the copyright laws differ depending on which country you're in. But anyway, I hope this helps. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] What is Stumpwork?
Now I am being told that this is not right I am doing something that was not done during the period that Stumpwork was made in England. I can see someone saying this if you were entering a "Re-create the 1650s" competition, but there has been such a lot of modern stumpwork done that I think you just ran into a purist who was so stuck on the stumpwork aspect that they couldn't see the work as a whole. Since the word "stumpwork" seems to jangle someone's nerves, why not just call the stumpwork bits "raised embroidery". If you were entering a lace competition, presumably only the lace itself would be judged for its working anyway, and all the stump ... er ... raised embroidery, along with the machine embroidery, would be considered the background and judged primarily as to how it enhanced the lace. Just my 2 cents, Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] pronounciation of lace names
Does one approach this issue as though everyone in the audience is sophisticated enough to know the pronunciation rules of every language or does one pronounce things the way they would be pronounced in the language that you are speaking in? Hi Devon: My 2 cents: This problem makes you tread carefully - I think there's a fine line between sounding knowledgeable and sounding like a pompous snob. And the pronounciation rules of every language are subject to local variance. Think about "New Orleans" vs "N'alins" and all the possibilities in between that you will get in your own country! Then, even the so-called knowledgeable people say things differently - we've already gone over the many pronunciations of Binche on this list - I think I had eight or nine at last count, and it's a one-syllable word! When I am speaking English I say the words as a speaker of English, except that I tend to use the French "pwan" rather than Point when I say French names - but in Canada most people have a few years of French schooling under their belt. If I am speaking to people who will I think may be confused by "pwan" I just say Point the English way. I rhyme Binche with pinch and let the chips fall where they may. I say Tonder with the "d". I have no trouble with you saying Rose Point and Pwan de Neige in the same sentence. I think we in North America worry more about correct pronunciation than a lot of other people. Let's get over it! I think the most important thing is to communicate what I mean, and I speak with the goal of having the people I am talking to understand me. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] books and articles wanted
Out of curiosity, is the 1923 date a "fixed in stone" (perhaps for 5 or 10 years?) or an "82 years before now" date that has been decided on as a suitable period for the cut off point? In that case, does it move on a year each year, ie next year 1924 books can be used? No, the 1923 is fixed in stone. After 1923 you switch to "date of the author's death plus 50 years" (in Canada anyway, I don't know if the UK decided on the same number of years - in the US I think they went for more) But you also need to be careful because some authors donate their works in perpetuity to an institution (university or something) and their works will never be out of copyright. Generally these are famous authors, though, not little lace enthusiasts ;-) Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Re: Another ebay lace bobbin
"Extremely rare" is right :) And, I always thought that "a Stanhope" was some kind of a horse-pulled vehicle, but it seems to mean "a spangle" here? Hi Tamara and other kindly spiders: A Stanhope as used here is a little bitty microscopic viewer that shows a picture of some kind - often a public place or famous building, for example. The technology for making these arose in the mid-1800s and you can find them inserted into all kinds of things - a quick web search brought up letter openers, needle cases, etc. All you need is space for a hole and a 3 mm x 8 mm glass rod on which the picture appears. There was quite a craze for them in the late 1800s and well into the 1900s. For a little bit more info on Stanhope viewers, try http://www.acmi.net.au/AIC/STANHOPE_BIO.html Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Re: A visual treat on eBay...
Hello spiders: Tamara wrote: Most of the lace made then - whether needle or bobbin - was made either for the Church, which makes me wonder if this piece might be a communion cup cover. I know they had such covers in lace, but I have no idea what size it ought to be. Adele in cool and windy North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Cloth-stitch laces and tones
Hello, spiders: About the cloth-stitch laces: I'm referring to the older (eg, 17th-century) laces of Antwerp and similar; the ones that gave rise to what we now call Valenciennes, Flanders, and Binche. I would like to learn more about these laces, and am wondering if there are any resources I don't know about. I will tackle books/articles that aren't in English. I already have the OIDFA publications "Die linnenkast" #3 and #4, and "Caroluskantjes". Much of what I do know comes from Erdmute Wesenberg's "Binche-Spitzen" which I also have. Is there anything else? Also, I'd like to thank Donna for putting into words what was floating in my mind: "Email is such an imperfect medium of communication. We save time by using fewer words than we'd use in conversation, we can't see the poster's facial expression or hear their tone of voice. This is a highly charged, emotional situation and tearing Dora apart because we misinterpreted her response is not gonna help the victims of this horrible deed or the families of victims." Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Waxing thread for bobbin lace
One thing I haven't seen raised in this thread - I seem to recall that beeswax is acidic. I don't know how acidic, and I don't know if or how beeswax would affect linen thread over time, but it is something to think about. If somebody has a piece that was made, say, at least 5-10 years ago, that had beeswax on it, it would be interesting to hear from them as to the current condition of the piece. I am always very reluctant to put *anything* onto my linen threads, since the very first linen doily I made turned deep amber brown on the parts where I "reinforced" my knots with fabric glue. I know, I know, I wasn't supposed to do that - but the point is that the fabric glue claimed to be non-yellowing. It didn't yellow for at least 3 years, but after that - wow! Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] fun at home!!!
What lace projects are you working on? Hi Irene and other gentle Spiders: I'm ploughing ahead with my second 5-metre piece - the OIDFA pattern "Sneeuwpoppen". This time I'm keeping track of how much I do each week, because I want to finish it by September (started May 17th). I find I keep trying to outdo myself each week - so I'm spending more and more time on it - help! it's taking over my life! Last week I did 21 inches. I usually want to stay inside when I make lace - it may be hotter than outside but at least it's not windy or dirty (I live on a busy road and get lots of black dust on my patio). I may try sitting out this evening, though. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [lace] Linen (flax) thread
I've heard a number of stories about why we don't have fine flax, and after hearing them all, this is my 2 cents' worth: 1. A few years ago in the OIDFA bulletin (I think) there was an article on fine linen thread from someone whose family has been in the linen-thread production business for a few generations. He said that, whereas an experienced flax handspinner could produce a thread with as few as 8 individual fibres, the best machines couldn't do it with fewer than 40 fibres. I assume that's due to the lighter tension, greater care, and individual attention to the fibre you would get from an experienced handspinner. 2. Lots of people claim that there was some mysterious variety of special flax that died out - and lots of people claim there never was and it never did. I think that it is likely that makers of machine-made thread got tired of being asked why they couldn't make fine thread, and the mysterious plant extinction was a good story that got them off the hook. I'm suspicious that way ;-) 3. I've heard that the plants that were intended to produce fine threads were deliberately crowded in sowing so they grew tall and thin as the plant stretched up to find some sunlight. These particular plants were then harvested by pulling them up by the roots so that the maximum length of processed fibre was obtained. 4. I've read an article from the 17th century, wherein an Englishman attempted to figure out how the Dutch got such fine flax thread, and he reported that the unspun flax was kept for years, and re-combed every year, until the remaining fibre was "as fine as baby's hair". Perhaps this patience and careful selection is a factor. 5. It is well known that the temperatures in northern Europe were for some centuries cooler than they are now. Plants grown in cooler conditions may produce finer threads, just as tree rings are thinner when the year is cool. I'm not sure; it's just a thought. In conclusion - for what it's worth, I think the fineness of linen thread was more likely the result of careful hand-raising, hand-processing, and hand-spinning, and climate conditions, than it was the result of having some special variety of flax. Again, my 2 cents. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Re: ironing things
Their irons were even more primitive - they didn't have a shell with hinged door for the insert - the whole thing was heated Hey, Tamara - we have a bunch of your "primitive" irons at work - and we use them every day. If we need to iron something (usually paper, sometimes leather or cloth) they go onto the hotplate to warm up, and when they're cool they make great weights. Ours are fairly tiny compared to modern irons - maybe 7" long (17.5 cm or thereabouts) but they're probably more recent than those in the Jackson house because the bottoms are polished stainless steel, and SS wasn't invented until 1906 or so. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) PS: in case you're wondering, I work in a book bindery - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Passing In the Manner of a Horse
You use "passée à cheval" when 4 threads from leaves cross the cloth stitch trail : 2 go in the plait and 2 become workers (? good term in english?). Or the opposite plait to leaves. In "Passée à cheval" you change the worker. Look the black arrows on the diagram. Hi Donna: Think of somebody sitting astride a horse. One leg goes on one side, the other leg goes on the other but they're both going in the same direction. That may help you understand the use of "cheval" in this term. I've also run into the "cheval" analogy when reading directions for starting a piece. We describe putting pairs onto a pin rainbow-fashion, where the first pair on sits in the middle, the next pair has one bobbin on either side of the first pair, etc. In French that can be described using the word 'cheval' as well. I've taken another look at the pattern you describe, and I think the advice to just follow the enlarged diagrams is the best. Adele North Vancouver, BC - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Pita Lace
Last night a fellow lacemaker was showing me a new addtion to her lace collection. The little doily was labelled "pita lace". It was a most beautiful airy little thing, like a delicate spider web. Neither of us has ever heard of pita lace before, it really looked like a super-fine knitting. Hi Sharon: Pita is a name for the fibre that is derived from the Aloe plant. So, the 'pita lace' label refers to what the lace is made of, not the type of lace. Some years ago I was asked to identify a piece that sounds very similar to yours. It was indeed knitted, very finely, and had the bobbles-of-many-wraps that you describe. It is a long time since I did the research, but I believe that lace had been bought locally (I think, from Eaton's) back in the 1920s, and my research indicated that it had been knitted as a cottage industry in some fairly isolated place - possibly the Azores, possibly not - unfortunately the name of the place has completely slipped my mind. One feature of the lace I had was that although it was circular, it had a join on the radius of the circle, so at least part of the doily had not been knit out from the centre as is usually done, but had been worked as a separate piece. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Re: Angle of Work
I've virtually always ended up with the main angle of work top right to bottom left, whichever side the footside was on [...] Has anyone noticed this, or is it just me being awkward? Can it make a difference to tensioning, or anything else that might matter? My first 5-metre piece was Torchon, and during the deadly boredom of the last 1.5 metres I amused myself by working the pattern in different sequences to see if it made any difference to the lace. I was quite surprised to see that it did. The changes were probably only enough for me, and no-one else, to notice, but they were definite. From that learning experience I would say that if you're making a type of lace (like Torchon) in which the lace's regularity is part of its beauty, then whichever way you make a pattern, try to make it the same way with each repeat, working the same amount of each element in the same order. I used to just work in whatever direction I fancied, often switching back and forth from a 'top right to bottom left' angle to a 'top left to bottom right angle', throwing in the odd 'straight across' just for fun. Now I usually work Old Flanders or sometimes Binche, so I'm just happy to have deciphered the pattern, but if I do a Tonder or Torchon piece for any reason, I do make an effort to follow my own advice and do it the same way each time. Adele in rainy North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Re: [lace[ Update on PNWLC == new classes
There have been some class changes in the Pacific North West Lace Conference schedule. A couple teachers had to cancel, ... Hi Alice - I never made it onto the PNWLC mailing list so I have been relying on the website for information. When I look on the website at "Class Details" - am I right in thinking that all the classes that are listed are still running? Except of course for the first one that has Cancelled written across it in large letters. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Re: What is everybody up to?
Like Alice, I'm also in preparation for the PNWC lace conference in June. I'll be taking the Tonder class, and I've got a big pile of bobbins to wind. I also have to find a lace pillow to use, and since they're all already in use my choice is to finish an old project or make a new pillow. Between work and courses, I'm really busy right now, so I rather think I'll be making another pillow - that will be #12, I think. It won't be too hard to make since I made a pile of felt last fall and have a bit of plywood available to me. Lots easier than finishing a project. I did finish up my second 5-metre piece just a couple of weeks ago. I had it past 4 metres by last October, and then I couldn't make lace for many months. Now I'm better again and I was able to finish it off. It was the "Sneeuwpoppen" pattern from OIDFA. Now I'm having a little lacemaking rest until the conference. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Oldest UFO
One is about seven years old. It must be the oldest one I still have on a pillow. This got me thinking - who has the oldest UFO still on a pillow - and *still*, after all these years, intends to finish it some day? I have a piece of Honiton that dates from 1981. Still on the pillow - I was just a newbie and didn't know I couldn't do Honiton yet so I started the sampler in Elsie Luxton's book. Once I found out that Honiton was supposed to be hard, I realized I couldn't do it and stopped working. Now I'm ready to admit I've been silly and finally finish it off - maybe I can get going again at the Honiton class I'm taking at the end of June. Now, where's my spool of thread ... Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] French help needed
Hi everybody: I'm reading the book "Dentelles Normandes: La Blonde de Caen" and I keep running into one problem. Like the English, the French historically used the same word, "livre" to refer to a pound in weight and to refer to a unit of currency (which I think is the same as what is now called the franc). So, when I read things like "à l'avenir toutes les Dentelles indistinctement, ne payeront que dix sous par livre pour tous droits de sorties du Royaume à l'étranger" does it mean the charge was ten sous for each pound (weight) of lace or ten sous for each franc the lace cost? Another sentence is "Le Havre expédie annuellement pour 630 000 livres de dentelles d'or et d'argent et pour 70 000 livres de dentelles de soie noire". Does that mean lace with a value of 630,000 francs or lace that weighs 630 000 pounds? Even if it is made of gold or silver, 630,000 pounds of lace sounds to me like an awful lot even for 22,000 lacemakers. I'm confused. Can any of our French members help? Adele North Vancouver, BC - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] embroidery tool and sewing machines
Tamara wrote: the early instruction booklets that came with machines. What's "early"? And, does anyone know how well those early "combination" machines sold? As opposed to the two -- independent (sewing and embroidery) -- ones? I think the book referred to was put out by the Singer sewing company. And, yes, it does refer to the use of a simple Singer straight-stitch sewing machine to do embroidery, not a specialized embroidery machine. Our local library has a copy of the book - I think it's called "Singer Instructions For Art Embroidery and Lace Work" - and it has been reprinted (Dover?). I don't know how early the original book came out, but the one I've seen was from the 1920's. So, how was the embroidery done? As I recall, you position your needle, put down the presser foot, and put the needle down through the fabric. Then you either (1) leave the needle in the fabric, lift the presser foot, turn the work around the other way, adjust the stitch length if you don't want a straight line of satin stitches but want them to widen or narrow, and take the next stitch back, or (2) raise the presser foot, move the fabric to where you want the next stitch to go in, put the presser foot down again, and put the needle down into the fabric and bring it back up. When you've repeated that several thousand times, maintaining even tension all the way, you've got yourself a nice piece of embroidery. The picture on the cover showed complicated curving whitework embroidery done in lovely even satin stitch. I can't imagine anyone not employed by Singer ever successfully accomplishing that level of work - or spending the time to do it - but I think a lot of women bought the book thinking it was all going to be very easy. (The "Lace Work" part of the title referred to the fact that after you'd done all your satin stitch you could cut out part of the background fabric to make cutwork 'lace'.) It reminds me of a fad that flowered for six months or so about 25 years ago - some sewing machine company hired people to tour around textile shows demonstrating how you could do cross stitch with the zig-zag feature on their sewing machine. You bought very small diameter double-pointed knitting needles. You laid them down on the fabric and zig-zagged over them with your machine, one stitch for each stitch on your pattern, then you turned the whole thing around and zig-zagged back again to create the other side of the cross stitch. Then you changed your thread to the next colour and did the whole thing again in the next colour area, and so on. The whole point was that you could do even cross stitch on non-evenweave fabrics. As far as I can tell, the demonstrators were the only people who were ever able to do the technique without breaking their sewing machine needle on the steel double-pointed needles. I knew people who bought the dpns but nobody who tried it more than once. It was tedious and frustrating. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Whitework Needle Sampler
Hi Dianne: I wonder if you are thinking about the book "Danish Pulled Thread Embroidery" (you can see a picture of the cover at http://store.doverpublications.com/0486234746.html ) which is a Dover reprint book that is still available. The book gave you the patterns to work the squares in a traditional whitework sampler, pictured on the cover. Collecting whitework patterns in blocks on a sampler was, of course, something everybody did at that time, so there's no saying this sampler is the one you're thinking of, but it is the only one that I can think of that has been widely publicized. Since this sampler was Danish, I don't think it is the same as the "Mary Quelch" sampler you've mentioned - Mary Quelch sounds like an English name to me. Hope this helps. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) A long time ago I saw a whitework needle sampler that had blocks of different patterns. I am wondering if anyone knows where the information may be located. Recently I found reference to the Mary Quelch sampler and wonder if this might be the same thing but I cannot find any information about it. Is there anyone who can help me? Dianne - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Re: (lace) Tension for a Wool Bolster
If you have no one to help create tension as you wind the felted
material around the core, open a window ("sash" type), and close it
on one end of the material. Then begin winding, pulling hard against
the end caught in the window. I have done two bolsters this way:
they are nice and firm.
I just stand on it. Lay the strip out so you can back down it, start
rolling, and slowly move backwards as you go. At the very end you can
roll right down to your foot.
Also, I don't know if it was mentioned (and this is probably the way
everybody does it, but just in case it isn't) - I cut my blanket up
into strips the right width and then butt the edges together and
lightly hand sew them together first (keeping it so the edges don't
overlap and make a bump). Then I can wrap the resulting long, long
strip (I've done as much as 5 yards) around the bolster at one go.
Adele
North Vancouver, BC
(west coast of Canada)
-
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[lace] Portland, Oregon area (off-topic)
Help! Is there anyone on the list who knows the SW Portland area, and can suggest any inexpensive place to stay within easy driving distance of the Garden Home Recreation Center (7425 SW Oleson Road)? I am considering taking a course there at the end of the month (not lace-related) but it will all depend on how much the hotel costs. Unfortunately the Internet-based map systems don't agree with my operating system, and my Portland area map dates from 1972. Things have probably changed since then :-) Thanks in advance, and sorry for the off-topic post. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] lace activities
Bev wrote: Hi everyone, and thank you Janice for the nice report - yes quiet list - so... what's everyone else doing in lace? Well, a week ago I finished the final piece I had on the go from the Tonder class I took from Gunvor Jorgensen at the PNWC conference in June. I've sewn the 3 sample pieces I did in the class onto a page that has gone into the folder for future reference. Now I could cheerfully start one of the many projects I plan to do eventually - like one of many in Russian Tape from the book "Motieven in Kleur" that I bought at PNWC, or another Tonder pattern, or a Milanese pattern (bought another great book), or there's that Mechlin syllabus I bought once and have always been meaning to try ... or ... or ... But I think I really should try finishing the Old Flanders pattern I've had on the go for 3 years now. So that'll be my next project. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Kant magazine.
Kant Magazine number 3 from Brugge Bev - is that the magazine that is published by LOKK? If not, who publishes it? Enquiring minds want to know. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Kant magazine
Yes, I've looked on the website and it all looks very easy *but* - could any of our European members tell me what, *exactly* the payment situation is? The general information at the Kantcentrum website says "from March 1st". Does that mean "everybody who has paid for a subscription before March 1st gets the magazines for the coming year" or does it mean "everybody who has paid for a subscription by December 31st (for example) gets magazines starting with the March 1st issue? what happens if you subscribe June 2nd? Do you have to wait until the following March 1st to start getting magazines? These questions probably sound silly to Europeans, but they come from experience - I have had dealings with Europeans subscribing to a Canadian magazine, and they have often been surprised when told that their subscription didn't automatically lapse or renew on December 31st. They also wrote letters at the end of the year to notify me if they did not intend to renew their subscription - something North Americans don't need to do. So, it seems to me that the general rules of how magazine subscriptions work in Europe are different from the North Americans experience. Adele risking sounding like a loony in North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) When does their subscription year start? What was the first issue you received? I'm thinking of subscribing since the patterns sound very interesting! April, it seems. General info is at http://www.kantcentrum.com - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] TONDER LACE PINS
I have googled and saw lots of pretty lace, a few bobbins and no definitions on the size of the pins. Generally Tonder uses very fine, long pins. I'm no Tonder expert, but I feel the finer pins are better because you use very fine thread and you often close your pins (ie, C-T-T, pin, C-T-T). If the pin is wider than two twists of the thread, then the thread starts having to go an extra distance to get around the pin, and the pin itself is changing the shape of your lace. I don't know if I've explained this very well - hope you understand what I'm getting at. But, if you're taking a beginner class, they might use a thicker thread (in the class I took at PNWC this June the beginners used size 120 thread; more advanced students used 160). If you're using the 120 cotton you might be perfectly happy with the normal fine lace pins of .55 mm or so. I used the 160 cotton at my class and I remember being glad that I had brought the very fine Tonder pins, which were already in my stash. Unfortunately I bought the pins a while back and I don't recall the brand name of the pin or what size they were. But, I just put some side by side and measured - 9 pins cover about 3.5 mm, so I guess they're about .4 mm each. Lovely pins. Wish I could get more, though I do recall they were very expensive! Hope this helps. And - if anybody recognizes these pins from the description I've given, and knows where I can get more, do let me know. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Pacific Northwest Conference 1993
Hi Irene: They look like they are having a great time despite being in a "torture" class. Does anyone remember this conference and class? I'm curious! I was at that conference, too. I can't quite recall what I was taking, though I remember being glad it wasn't Torchon Torture! (Though the people who took it said later it was a very good class in that they learned a lot - just not the fun time and shorter hours we're accustomed to.) They did warn everybody in the brochure what it was going to be like, though, so the people who took it knew what they were getting in for. TT wasn't a normal class; it had longer hours and went 5 full, long days. They started early, went late, and didn't stop for breaks. Then there was the homework! The rest of us were gadding about, eating and talking and taking breaks, and the poor TT people would be in their rooms, hunched over their pillows. The pattern they were doing was similar in concept to the "Sampler" at the start of Cook's "Building Torchon Lace Patterns", (an insertion strip that runs back and forth to build up the centre of a rectangle, with an edging around the whole) and as Malvary says, they had to get to a certain point for each day. They got an introduction to design, as well as the pattern - I think part of the design was their own. I also recall the class instructions included a request to bring "pure black copy paper" which, in those days before the gel pen craze, did not exist - certainly not here in Vancouver, anyway. People were looking all over for something suitable, and wound up buying expensive black paper from art supply stores - and even they had only heavy charcoal paper, not the thinner weight that was wanted. I don't recall having the bedroom problems Malvary reports - maybe that's only because I've managed to erase it from my mind! I wonder if that was the PNWC that was held in what used to be a seminary, and the rooms all had windows in the doors so the monks could look in and make sure their pupils weren't doing bad things. Adele This past PNWC was either my 6th or my 7th! Lots of good memories over the years. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Lace Day - Vancouver, BC Area
Hello everyone: Just wanted to announce that the Richmond Area Lacemakers (near Vancouver, BC, Canada) will be having a Lace Day on Sunday, November 19th. Normally I wouldn't bother the list with this news, but we do want to get the word out to people in Seattle, Victoria, and other places close enough to make it a day trip, and we don't have enough time to get the word out using our regular channels. Anyone who wants to come can e-mail me if they like, and I will forward the PDF file of our official announcement and a map to the venue. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] leaves
I have been making leaves in the Brioude style for quite a while now. However, I can't bring my right thumb over to pick up the bobbins. I've been following this discussion in some bewilderment because I could have sworn there weren't any instructions in my Cluny de Brioude book that involve strange and difficult thumb movements. I've just looked again - still can't see anything. Is this mysterious thumb movement something you heard in a Cluny de Brioude class, or is it in the book and I've missed it? When I look at the illustration I see what I call 'pumpkin seed' leaves. I've been making those for a few years now (thanks to kindly instructions from this list) and so I just continued making them the way I originally taught myself. Please tell me what the thumb thing is all about. Enquiring minds want to know. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Re: leaves, again
Bev wrote: ...and may I say 'thankyou' to Jean for taking the time and trouble to post detailed directions for making a leaf the Cluny de Brioude way. I'd like to say thanks, too. I can finally envision it, and will give it a try very soon. I did notice that in the instructions for the final pattern in the Cluny de Brioude book, they do talk about adding one pair of Soie Ovale so you can use one bobbin of the Soie Ovale for weaving the leaf, and they said to hide the other bobbin of the pair inside either the right or the left edge, but never the centre. Looking at the leaves in the picture, it does seem like the edges are quite firmly packed with threads. This notion of packing the leaves with extra threads attracts me. With the ability to add anywhere from 1 to 4 threads I can create a variety of leaf dimensions within the same project. Will have to experiment. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Threads and pins
Here's my question: I've been cautioned that with this method there is a risk that the pricking might not stay exactly "vertical" but might eventually work its way slightly diagonal. Is this really a problem/risk? If so, how can I avoid it? Hi Barbara: I've made 2 lengths of 5 metres on a roller pillow with prickings that were larger than the bolster, and I did sometimes have trouble with the pricking walking to one side. Mine tended to walk to the left if it was not firmly pinned to the bolster ahead of the work. I suspect it was something to do with me being right-handed - perhaps I don't put the pins in straight up and down, or am more forceful when pinning from the right. I put two pins (one each side) into the bolster as far ahead as I can conveniently reach without having to disturb the bolster. When I reach the pins, I just move them ahead again. These pins not only work to keep the pattern in place - they're also striver pins! Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Les Dentelles aux Fuseaux
Lenore wrote: Wow! Can anyone tell me more about this little book? Any suggestions as to where I could find the English translation? Since "Les dentelles aux fuseaux" just means "Bobbin Lace", I suppose there could be two books with the same title, but in the foreword to the translation of "Technique and Design of Cluny Lace" (Rutgers/Paulis, published by Ruth Bean in 1984) it says that it is a translation (by Rutgers) of a little book called "Les Dentelles aux Fuseaux" (by Paulis), with small changes having been made 'to bring it up to date for the modern lacemaker.' If it is the same book, then the original was written by Madame Paulis and was published in 1921 in Brussels. She also wrote "Pour connaitre la dentelle" [to know lace], 1947. Mme Paulis was associated in some way (it says 'collaboratrice libre' and I'm not too sure what that means) with the Musees Royaux d'Art et d'Histoire in Brussels. Hope this helps. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Re: It's all over now and Making Patterns
We don't have a lot of fireworks around here this time of year but my neighbours said it with pots and pans and their voices. Oh, and the odd car horn. We do have four huge fireworks displays in the summer, put on by different countries, and last year when one started with a giant "BANG" at 10 pm my apartment, which is on the ground floor, was instantly filled with eau de skunk. The poor little fellow must have been right outside my window and severely startled. If you haven't ever smelled fresh skunk spray, thank your lucky stars! I have spent some time this holiday trying to make a pattern of an old piece of lace from a photograph in a book. Does anyone have any tips for this? It's an early pattern (ca.1650) and is not made on a grid, so just getting some graph paper and drawing in the pin holes won't work. I have tried several methods over the years and none has succeeded - I don't know if it's lack of skills and technique or a simple lack of patience! But I am determined, so what I have done this time is scan it and enlarge it so it fills the page, then I drew around the figures (it's one of the laces where there are several trails making up a deep scallop) and then I shrank the line drawing to what I think is an appropriate size for the lace. Now I've filled up 30 pairs of bobbins with what I think is an appropriate size of thread, and I'm going to try just making the lace freehand with the line drawing as a guide. It is quite a complex piece of lace and I don't know if I'll be able to do it but will let you know how it goes. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace]Scottish Lace -Hamilton Lace
I would still be interested in any further information on Scottish laces. Dear Spiders: I do like books that were written before people felt the need to be politically correct, and would state their opinion fearlessly - In "Chats on Old Lace and Needlework", Mrs. Lowes (circa 1907) states: "Scotch lace can hardly be said to exist. At one time a coarse kind of network lace called "Hamilton lace" was made, and considerable money was obtained by it, but it never had a fashion, and deservedly so. Since the introduction of machinery, however, there has been considerable trade, and a tambour lace is made for flounces, scarfs, &c. The more artistic class of work made by Scotswomen is that of embroidering fine muslin, and some really exquisite work is made by the common people in their homes." The fine muslin embroidery was, of course, what we now know as "Ayrshire Work" and there are some excellent books out on the subject. But Scotland in general appears to have been pretty much a bobbin-free zone. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Regional lacemaking in Art Nouveau time -- thoughts
Because Morris and Ruskin and the rest of the "head in the clouds" crowd Let's not forget that it was not Ruskin who started Ruskin lace, it was Marion Twelves, the housekeeper of one of his associates (Albert Fleming), who helped develop a flax-spinning & weaving industry, and then developed and taught the methods of cutting and embroidering the woven fabric to create "Ruskin Lace" in imitation of what was then known as Greek Lace. I think Ruskin and the others were similar to today's activists, who preach about how we should live without actually interesting themselves in setting out the framework to make it possible for people to live that way. Good at theories, but not at the nuts-and-bolts stage of change. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Lace Buttons - Out-of-print Books
Hi Everybody: The prices Jean got from amazon.co.uk for the 50 Heirloom Buttons to Make book show how you need to shop around when you're on the Internet. I popped the title into http://www.abebooks.com and got three results, one here in Canada for $32.95 (about 15 British pounds) and one in the US for $35.95 US (about 18 British pounds ?) and another in the US for $60 US. (what's that, 35 pounds?) Once any seller pays for their web presence, it doesn't really cost them much more to advertise a book, so there are a few people who will put a book on the web with a ridiculous price, hoping somebody will buy it. I always try abebooks.com because there are a lot of international retailers on it and I have a reasonable chance of finding somebody in Canada (hurray! no customs! No delay!). Also, since the ABE (Advanced Book Exchange) is a linkage of many many small bookshops all around the world, I'm usually dealing with smaller businesses and not giant ones. (not an employee, just a satisfied happy customer) Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] distributors of Liana threads
This subject came up a few years ago, and I think we concluded that Anchor Liana is sold in North America as "Opera", (by Coats and Clark in Canada; I don't know if the same manufacturer is listed in the US) "Opera" is widely available - it's even at my local Michael's. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) Dear arachne-colleagues: Can someone give me some information on why it is impossible to obtain Liana threads in the U.S. and where I might find a supplier of Liana threads from Europe for some of my Anna projects. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Spangles
American English they use the French word 'paillettes' and in Canadian English, we use the British 'spangles'? I'd use "paillettes" for the large plastic sequins, particular the very big ones with the holes off-centre, and I'd use "spangles" only for metal-based sequins. (True spangles are made by flattening a small circle of wire). Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Bags of lace stuff
exciting to go through bags of lace stuff looking for gems, but I wanted to ask what "foxed" means? I have never come across that phrase before. Hi: You usually hear 'foxed' when dealing with old books; it means the paper has acquired brownish staining or spots due to age, dampness, or other factors. Since old paper is primarily linen and/or cotton, it does not surprise me that thread could also become foxed, though this is the first time I've heard the term used with regard to thread. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Drawings of lace
f she really does draw each thread, line by line, I think it would be faster to make the lace! I wonder why she does it? I took a Lace Design course once, and we were supposed to draw out our designs in white gel pen on black paper, because that gives you more of an idea of how the lace will look than drawing in black on white paper. It does work. However, this woman's an artist and not a lace designer and I think she's just fastidious. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Pattern copyright
Hello, everybody: In many (if not most) countries the *intent* of the original law is also considered before an action is deemed to be illegal. For example, the law against reselling without the original cover would mean that if your cover fell off or were somehow destroyed you were out of luck - you'd never be able to re-sell the book. Obviously preventing people from taping their book back together or sticking some construction paper on instead of the original cover (or, just getting the thing rebound) is not what the law intends. In the used book trade, books are rebound all the time and nobody is in any trouble. University textbooks are traditionally printed with wide margins in the anticipation of them being rebound at least twice. I think the law probably only applies to selling the book as a new book rather than as a used book. The comment that you can't make up a lace pattern from a book borrowed from the library troubles me, too. By extension, you also couldn't view videos or DVDs you borrowed from the library - just look at them to decide whether or not you want to buy. (Or maybe you could view the exercise tape you borrowed, but weren't supposed to do the exercises? Watch the film but not follow the plot? This doesn't make sense.) I know that in the UK (and I think in Canada too), there are provisions for authors to receive some income from borrowed books. Libraries report how often books are borrowed, and some fee is paid to a central office that occasionally remits a payment, though the authors have to register to receive the money. I am sure that there is a lot of discussion, one way or another, regarding these points of law. It's the sort of thing that keeps the law courts filled and lawyers driving luxury automobiles. But until somebody sues me and wins, I'll just take the road of common sense. I will resell books if I wish, purchase used books if I find them, and use patterns from books in the library (I don't belong to the Lace Guild). But I won't photocopy patterns and hand them out all over the place. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] What are these "lacemaking bobbins" on ebay?
I've never seen anything like them, but I'm wondering if they aren't some kind of peg used in all-wood carpentry. You see some of them have metal bits married in, and in shape they're more like commonly available metal nails and pegs than they are like lace bobbins! Can't think what the spool thingies are for, though. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) Someone must know what these are, listed as lacemaking bobbins: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Lot-4-Vintage-Antique-Lace-Making-Bobbin- Bobbins_W0QQitemZ140112007729QQihZ004QQcategoryZ134591QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewI tem tinied: http://tinyurl.com/ynklrg or search for item number: 140112007729 If you click on "view sellers's other items", he/she's got two other lots of similar items, but one has a couple of wooden spools and one of these things. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Late Georgian/Regency Lace
Hi everybody: I am trying to figure out what type(s) of lace would be appropriate for an English lady's evening costume for the period 1796 - 1817. Does anybody have any thoughts? I know blonde lace was popular but I don't know how to make it and I don't have enough time to learn. I am thinking about making some lace to trim a dress for the Jane Austen Society's annual conference, which takes place here in Vancouver, early in October. (Austen lived from 1775 to 1817; I intend a "Regency" look to my dress so that would put it in the later part of this time period) I do have two 5-metre pieces, one in Torchon and one in Old Flanders, and I think they're probably too late and too early in period. The lace wouldn't need to go around the hem (no, I have no plans to make a 3rd "5 metre" piece ;-) - I'm thinking about something that would go across the bottom of a deep scooped neckline. Could I get away with making some Bucks Point or Tonder, or were those later on in period? What do you think? Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] **Danish** Late Georgian/Regency Lace
Hi everybody: Many thanks to those who responded to my lace question. I am thinking that a fine point lace, sparely decorated, would be a good idea, and I've picked out "Empire II" from Inge Wind Skovgaard's "Toenderkniplinger I (Akacia)". After all our recent postings on naming the centuries, I think this is from the right time period, but I just want to check: this is in the section "Empiremoenstre" which starts out with "I begyndelsen af 1800-tallet blev der kniplet ..." - do the first few words of this sentence mean "In the beginning of the 1800s ..." ? Please let me know. By the way, this costume is for the Regency ball, and I know several people have indicated that the not-so-rich of the period would only have English laces to choose from. However Jane Austen herself had a cousin (I think it was a cousin) whose husband (the "Comte de Feullide") perished on the guillotine, so we see that even the not-so-terribly-grand might have relatives with connections all over Europe. My story is that somebody could easily have relatives in northern Europe who sent or brought over with them some presents of lace. On 6/20/07, Adele Shaak <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Hi everybody: I am trying to figure out what type(s) of lace would be appropriate for an English lady's evening costume for the period 1796 - 1817. Does anybody have any thoughts? I know blonde lace was popular but I don't know how to make it and I don't have enough time to learn. - - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Re: Need some opinions here
My main question here is in regard to the Valenciennes book. Will it or will it not help and guide me in doing Binche lace? Whew, that was a lot! My understanding is that historically, Valenciennes, Binche and Flanders are cousins, all descended from Old Flanders. When you do Old Flanders you can see bits all three modern laces here and there. The main two things you have to get used to in all three (and Old Flanders as well) is the notion of the workers changing all the time (which also affects how you tension) and the use of a ring around the cloth stitch motifs. Valenciennes uses both of these, as does Flanders. The main technical difference is the ground - Val uses a plaited ground, Flanders the 5-Hole ground. Binche doesn't really have much of a ground; it's more like Old Flanders in that respect. In terms of learning - a book on *either* Val or Flanders will do equally well at teaching you what you need to know but in order to make the laces in those you will be doing lots and lots of either Flanders or Val ground - and you don't need either to learn Binche. So, starting Binche by learning Val or Flanders isn't necessarily the best route. You could also start Binche just by doing Binche (I started with the Giusiana/Dunn book "Binche lace") or you could start Binche by doing Old Flanders which doesn't have much ground at all. Whatever you do - if my experience is anything to go by, expect to have a steep learning curve. I gave up in tear when I first tried, then I got help. In the first pattern I succeeded at, the repeat was about 1.25 inches x 5/8 inch - and it took me 8 solid hours to do the first repeat. Second repeat was 5 hours, third repeat was 2. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Re: Need some opinions here
Hi Again, everybody: I just wanted to add a bit of clarification to my post - I said Binche doesn't have much of a ground - that's because I look on individuals peas/snowflakes as motifs, not as part of an overall ground. So what some call "snowflake ground" I call "filled with snowflake motifs, with twists between" or something like that. Same concept, just a different way of looking at it. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) just trying to save myself from getting dozens of posts saying "what do you mean, "Binche doesn't have much of a ground" Adele wrote: Binche doesn't really have much of a ground; it's more like Old Flanders in that respect. and bevw wrote: ... I do understand that Flanders is an important introduction to Binche, e.g. the snowflake grounds,... - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] questions about Flanders lace and pins and pillows
Hi Everybody: > Yesterday as I became more relaxed with the stich, I began to wonder if the > order of > placing pins and twists makes a difference. I've experimented with different sequences and I believe it does make a minute difference in the lace, but that doesn't mean one sequence is better than another. All it means is that there's a chance your lace will look better if you do the sequence the same way every time. So, I agree with Ilske that you should find your own method, but whatever method you choose, try to make it the same way each time. Adele North Vancouver, BC (on the rainy but not yet cool enough for me west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Needlelace - Beginners Book Suggestions
A few books with good beginner needlelace instructions: "Needlelace" by Pat Earnshaw, in the Merehurst Embroidery Skills series. "Outlines and Stitches: A Guide to Design" by Pat Earnshaw "Needle Lace: Techniques & Inspiration" by Jull Nordfors Clark "The Art of Lacemaking" by Ann Collier The Earnshaw "Needlelace" book has basic instructions and lots of pages showing different stitches and their uses, with both modern and traditional designs. Her "Outlines and Stitches" book gives good instructions for standard needle lace, and also has information on designing and on Halas Needle Lace (a Hungarian lace established in the early 1900s). The only problem I have with recommending this book for general beginner needle lace technique is that absolute beginners may not understand which techniques are generally used and which are rarely found outside Halas lace; that may be confusing. Nordfors-Clark is more modern-design-oriented, and includes other embroidery techniques, chosen for the effect they achieve. Inspiring, but not a good book for people wanting to replicate old styles. Collier's book has a series of small projects, each one demonstrating a different kind of lacemaking (including techniques like Irish Crochet and cutwork); I like this one because of the variety but if you just want information on needle lace you might find that frustrating. All of these books are out of print, but I looked them up on www.abebooks.com and found used copies for sale in both the UK and the USA for reasonable prices - in the $20 to $40 range. (Of course, the seller in Hialeah, Florida, who wants $500 for "Outlines and Stitches" either made a typo or is insane ;-) Adele North Vancouver, BC (on the cold & cloudy west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Re: Lace Bat Patterns
does anyone know of any lace pattern for a bat (flying variety, not sporting)? Any size, any technique. Hi Helen: I have some books I took some looks I saw a cat The cat was fat But not a bat And that was that I saw more cats I saw some hats I saw some mats But never bats I saw no rats I saw no gnats I saw no bats Even in tats --- Sorry I couldn't find anything, though as I'm sure you already know, there's a lovely *embroidered* bat in Hausdrachen. Hope to see you at the RAL meeting this Sunday. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Pillow felt
A source we've found in Adelaide is the underfelt for underneath the cotton cover of an ironing board - I know, some of you don't iron anymore... Hi Shirley: Oh, we iron - but here in Canada they put a strange yellow synthetic foam under the ironing board cover. In the old days, before strange yellow synthetic foams were invented, my Mom had an underlayer of thick cotton batting, but I've never seen wool. It must be an Aussie thing (maybe you have more cheap wool than cheap cotton batting?) I have a pillow made with saddle felt and it is one of my favourites. I have no problems with it, but some people on this list have cautioned that when they made pillows with saddle felt, some of the felt fibres would creep up through the cover and be worked into their lace. So they recommended a couple of thin cotton cover layers before the final cover. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] 2008 Pacific Northwest Lace Conference
Hi - Does anybody know if the dates for the 2008 PNWLC have been set yet? I think the Seattle group is hosting it, but there's nothing on their website and I'm not sure who the contact person is. I'm trying to register for a course next summer but I don't want it to conflict with the PNWLC if I can help it. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Vintage Danish Lacemaking bobbins?
Is anybody else getting a chuckle out of the fact that "1983" is now "vintage" ? I taught myself lacemaking in 1981, and the first bobbins I made look very much like these. You could still get lots of large wooden beads in the hobby stores (remember the wooden beaded curtains of the 1970s?) and I just bought some wooden dowelling and some beads that would just fit over it. Unfortunately I didn't quite believe that a 1/8" wooden dowel would work, so I bought 1/4" dowelling and the beads had to be huge to have a hole that size and I wound up with "bobbins" that weigh about half a pound (227g) each. They've never been used, but I still have them. I keep thinking one of these days I'll make some lace with wool or twine or something, and they'll work well. If I passed away, I wonder if they'd wind up on eBay, and what the description would be! They certainly could be described as coming from the collection of an experienced lacemaker, which might lend them an air of authenticity. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) On Tuesday, October 30, 2007, at 12:29 AM, Jean Nathan wrote: Ebay Item number 270181663720 Tinied: http://tinyurl.com/2zl8bd Described as vintage Danish lacemaking bobbins. Look more like thin dowel with large wooden beads to me, but I'm open to correction. Kleinhout in Holland sell a variety of styles of Danish and other bobbins, but none look like these. They do one which is a tuned shaft and a "large black bead" on the bottom, but nothing like these. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Lacemaking Ancestors?
While tracing one family (the Braybrooks) on my Dad's side, I found census records for them in 1841 in Keyston, Huntingdonshire and all the female members of the families (there were several groups) were lacemakers! What I don't know is the type of lace that would have been made in Keyston. It is on the border of Northamptonshire but could have been influenced by either Bedfordshire or Buckinghamshire. Does anyone have any suggestions to offer? Ahhh, Helen, what we really need to know is, - how far is Keyston from Tiffield? :-) In Jackson's "History of Hand-Made Lace", regarding Northamptonshire laces, she says in part "...The patterns were taken from those of Lille and Mechlin, hence the laces of Buckinghamshire and Bedfordshire are often called "English Lille." (P. 184) The outbreak of the war with France gave a great impulse to the lace trade of Northampton, as it closed our ports to the French laces. From that time a sort of fausse Valenciennes, called locally "French ground," has been made. Valenciennes as fine as any made in Hainault was also made until the cessation of the war. The lace is still [1900] in Tiffield and other lace-making districts of the county." I wonder if your 1841 ancestors would have been influenced by the laces made during the French wars, but 1815 to 1841 is only 26 years, and 26 years ago, today, is only 1981. I can well imagine someone making the laces of 1981 in 2007. Adele Very close to you, in North Vancouver, BC and sorry to have missed the RAL meeting today. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Lacemaking Ancestors?
Jenny wrote: ...1871 census shows very few Braybrooks in Keyston, Ancestry.co.uk has the place name indexed as Keystone, and of the women I looked at by that name I only found one 14yr. old girl as a lacemaker called Braybrook. Other Braybrooks were spread around the area at this census. I think the Genuki page above will tell you the Keyston was absorbed into another village or something as time went on so maybe the Braybrooks were living in the same places as before but the place name had begun to be changed as the village boundary was being re-drawn? These census results show the sad decline of the lace making industry though. Hi: I think the census results also demonstrate how quickly and easily women disappear when they lose their last name through marriage. These women could still have been living in Keyston and making lace but as Mrs. John Smith, not so-and-so Braybrook. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Rayon Thread for lace
I've tried rayon for embroidery - EVIL thread! Wound up chucking the project. Rayon is a silk substitute, very slippery. I suppose if you've used silk thread, maybe rayon would work in BL, but it won't have much body. Frankly if it was me, maybe I'd try a small sample piece, but probably not. If you look at rayon and at silk under a microscope, you can clearly see that the silk has irregularities and scale-like formations (that's what makes it catch on itself) while the man-made rayon is a long straight regular fibre with no scales. That's what makes it so slippery. I've embroidered with rayon, too, and you have to keep it under constant tension because it wants to slip out of position all the time. Some people dampen it to embroider with, but dampening changes the way the rayon fibre looks, and if you dampen it at all you will need to dampen all of it so that it all looks the same. This problem may be worse in embroidery, where so much of the effect has to do with the regularity of threads lying beside one another. But I would be interested to know if anyone who has made rayon lace has a piece that has not been dampened and one that has, and can tell us whether dampening or washing has changed the way lace looks at all. Possibly it won't make a difference because the thread is only seen 1 or 2 strands at a time, and is twisted anyway. By the way - rayon was originally known as "artificial silk" which was shortened to "art silk" and a lot of people don't even know that the "art" stands for "artificial", so they will sell you rayon, call it silk and honestly not know the difference. They think it's some kind of special silk for artwork. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Bobbin Lace Survey
1) Winding bobbins 2) Final sewing together 3) Tallies (leaves, squares, triangles, any other type) Hi Helen: What's the most technically difficult for me is sewings in fine thread - like Honiton. But what I dislike the most is one of the easiest things in all bobbin lace - Torchon fans. It's just that they're so tedious! I did a 5m piece had a very small fan in each repeat, and the only way I survived was to make it into a game - I'd get all the bobbins ready to start the fan, take a big gulp of tea and think "All right, - GO!" and make it as fast as I could. By the end of fivedamnmetres I could make the fan in 42 seconds. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Re: Hand or machine- emerging sensibilities?
These days, if I ever make lace for something like a hankie, I tend to hem the hankie separately (either by machine or a rolled hem by hand) and attach the lace by overcasting (by hand). It's not as pretty, but I can tak the lace off easily. I do this, too, for much the same reason. It's not that I don't know the traditional hemstitches; it's not even that I can't do them evenly - I can, but I don't use them because I'm absolutely sure that there's no way I could remove the lace again without, at some point, cutting into the lace threads. Also, I'm really not fond of the tiny-geometric-hole look; I know it's traditional but I think it clashes with the more sweeping shapes of the lace. There are some embroidery stitches that are fast, pick out easily, and go well with lace. I particularly like the combination of Bedfordshire and feather stitch (If you don't know that stitch you can see an example here: http://inaminuteago.com/stitchdict/stitch/buttonhole-feather.html ) A handkerchief I made with beds motifs and feather stitch is still one of my favourites. I tacked the hem and tacked on the lace, then worked over both with the feather stitch. I'm sure there are lots of similar surface embroidery stitches that complement lace and don't take a lot of time, skill, or minute work. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Judging Criteria
We seem to have several judges on the list - I wonder, what would be your thoughts if you were faced with: 1. a superb original artistic vision and fantastic original design, in either a simple lace well made, or a difficult lace not expertly made or 2. A tour de force of technical skill in making a pattern that is available to anybody who has bought the book. Which would you choose? Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Question of terminology
Tamara wrote: So here goes a question: What do you call a ground which is constructed as follows: Whole Stitch (CTCT, or TCTC), Pin, Whole Stitch... And Bev replied: I call it CTCT, pin, CTCT ground ... ;)\ I'm with Bev. And I've had at least one teacher who also describes her patterns with C and T rather than defining stitches. I don't see any need to describe lace using stitches. In my mind, I see lace as a textile constructed from a series of Cs and Ts in a variety of orders, and I see half stitch, Dieppe stitch and all the other stitches as artificial labels for a defined series of movements. If the meaning of these labels has become confused, as so many people suggest, than you can either describe the pattern by breaking it down to Cs and Ts, or if you're colour-coding a diagram, you can add a legend that says what series of moves a particular colour refers to. Then everything is clear, no matter where you grew up or what book you read. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Re: Brilliana Lady Harley
*Yellow* "starched ruffs and bands"? *Yellow* ruff (on Mrs Turner)? Yellow??? What "gives" here, does anyone know? Does Planche mean "gilt" (metallic), or yellowed linen? And, if linen, how come it was allowed to get yellow? This is the first time I've *ever* heard of yellow lace and here he seems to be suggesting it was commonplace... I have heard of this before; that the linen didn't "yellow" on its own, it was deliberately treated in some manner so that it became bright yellow. I don't know how long the colour lasted - linen is notoriously difficult to dye, and I don't think the colour change was due to a dye so much as some kind of yellow starch being used, which would of course wash out. Of course the novelty of yellow linenwork made the process extremely popular, but the fad ended quickly. The story I heard was that the only woman who knew the recipe grew rich from it and then murdered somebody and was hanged and her secret died with her, but that seems too melodramatic to be true. Adele North Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
