[MBZ] Nice 190D Low miles

[eric peterson]

Looks nice are these W124s any good??  Also can
the clearcoat just be resprayed or do you have to redo
the paint also.  What is the going price for these?? 
All I've ever dealt with are W123s and a W126.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-190-Series-190-D-1989-M-BENZ-190-D-69-241-MILES-NICE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6328QQitemZ4608916185QQrdZ1

Eric
Crunched 85 300CD 89K



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Re: [MBZ] DIY Maybach repair

[redghost]

Might be.  I have not run into them wielding weapons upon the cars.  
they show up with a bag of tools that seems adequate, even if it is the 
cheap $20 FAPS chinese kit



On Sunday, January 29, 2006, at 04:16 PM, Zeitgeist wrote:


Heh heh heh, turns out it's not the ethnic groups Clay thought were
destroying the cars in the PnP's before he showed up, it's the
Romanians.  The ever pragmatic Romanians just use whatever tools
they've got available at the moment, so it's all been a big
misunderstanding.

On 1/29/06, Dave M. <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Hey Kaleb, maybe you can hire this guy to do the body work on the cars
that follow you home! Click link in first post:

http://500ecstasy.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2823

Sure wish I could understand whatever language they're speaking. BTW-
I believe MSRP on that Maybach is somewhere in the mid six figures.


Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: "I drive in a persistent vegetative state"
'87 300TD intercooler (211k)
'84 300D (207k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (186K)

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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz

Re: [MBZ] Rear Diff PM...Maybe

[John Berryman]

On Monday, January 30, 2006, at 04:49 PM, Kevin wrote:


And you can make one using a metric bolt and a couple of nuts if nobody
around you sells a 14mm allen for what you want to pay for it.

K



	And good luck using that for this application. The fill plugs usually 
require a big effort to break loose.


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am

[MBZ] acetone again

[redghost]

http://www.realtechnews.com/posts/2598

need another thread about using this?  I have a few gallons to burn

--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz

Re: [MBZ] S600 wiring

[BillR]

Sounds like it would be much simpler and cheaper to just keep the dream and
not mess it up with reality.  Perhaps I'll find a nice 300SDL or just put
some more $ into EM.
BillR  

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of John M McIntosh
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 5:36 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] S600 wiring

My understanding was that it was never fixed. The alternate fix was to
install an evap from a e-class and a baffle to fill in the gap because the e
class evap isn't as wide.
However the internet is full of stories about evaps being replaced 3 or 4
times in the 90s, so I'm not sure when the alternate fix was put into place.

On 30-Jan-06, at 2:20 PM, Desert Rat wrote:

> Speaking of evaporator failures, wonder if anyone knows when MB 
> recognized the error of their ways and reinforced this weak link? Was 
> it 96 or so?
>
> Which also leads to the thought that perhaps the early 92 and up 
> replacements were not reinforced?
>
> Thanks


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Re: [MBZ] S600 wiring

[John M McIntosh]

My understanding was that it was never fixed. The alternate fix was  
to install an evap
from a e-class and a baffle to fill in the gap because the e class  
evap isn't as wide.
However the internet is full of stories about evaps being replaced 3  
or 4 times in the 90s,

so I'm not sure when the alternate fix was put into place.

On 30-Jan-06, at 2:20 PM, Desert Rat wrote:


Speaking of evaporator failures, wonder if anyone knows when MB
recognized the error of their ways and reinforced this weak link? Was
it 96 or so?

Which also leads to the thought that perhaps the early 92 and up
replacements were not reinforced?

Thanks

Re: [MBZ] S600 wiring

[Desert Rat]

Speaking of evaporator failures, wonder if anyone knows when MB
recognized the error of their ways and reinforced this weak link? Was
it 96 or so?

Which also leads to the thought that perhaps the early 92 and up
replacements were not reinforced?

Thanks

On 1/30/06, John M McIntosh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Further to this I'll note not only will you need to replace the
> engine wiring, it is also likely you'll replace the throttle
> actuators (two) which have prices as much as $3000+ each, depending
> of course who can acquire the parts for you. In reading on another
> list it has been notice that replacement actuators after oh about 96
> have different coloured wiring, leading one to
> believe perhaps the wiring or part supplier changed things to the
> better. If said vehicle has any cracked wiring instantly subtract $8K?
>
> Lastly I'll note that some folks have discovered that right behind
> the engine is a plastic water distribution device (dual mono-
> valves?). That has a tendency now to crack (age/heat) and dump all
> the coolant. It is a bit ugly to access for replacement, kind of
> stick on engine, put engine in car, what you to remove it later? Why
> is that firewall in the way.
>
> In general you want to pay a bit extra for a 98 or 99, and ask about
> the evap and wiring.
>
>
> On 30-Jan-06, at 10:06 AM, BillR wrote:
>
> > Marshall and John - Thanks for the help.  I'll continue with the
> > numerous
> > repitions, and try to get at that switch, and only consider VERY
> > well priced
> > 140's or those with reworked wiring.
> > BillR
> > -Original Message-
>
> John
> 1983 300TDt  361k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
> 1990 300TDt  159k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
> 1993 500SEL 170k Kilometers (mobil 1 0w40)
>
>
>
> ___
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> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>


--
John Freer
Palm Springs, CA
1992 500 SEL 140K "Stardust"
1985 380SL 145K "Blue Belle"

Re: [MBZ] S600 wiring

[John M McIntosh]

Further to this I'll note not only will you need to replace the  
engine wiring, it is also likely you'll replace the throttle  
actuators (two) which have prices as much as $3000+ each, depending  
of course who can acquire the parts for you. In reading on another  
list it has been notice that replacement actuators after oh about 96  
have different coloured wiring, leading one to
believe perhaps the wiring or part supplier changed things to the  
better. If said vehicle has any cracked wiring instantly subtract $8K?


Lastly I'll note that some folks have discovered that right behind  
the engine is a plastic water distribution device (dual mono- 
valves?). That has a tendency now to crack (age/heat) and dump all  
the coolant. It is a bit ugly to access for replacement, kind of  
stick on engine, put engine in car, what you to remove it later? Why  
is that firewall in the way.


In general you want to pay a bit extra for a 98 or 99, and ask about  
the evap and wiring.



On 30-Jan-06, at 10:06 AM, BillR wrote:

Marshall and John - Thanks for the help.  I'll continue with the  
numerous
repitions, and try to get at that switch, and only consider VERY  
well priced

140's or those with reworked wiring.
BillR
-Original Message-


John
1983 300TDt  361k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
1990 300TDt  159k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
1993 500SEL 170k Kilometers (mobil 1 0w40)

Re: [MBZ] Rear Diff PM...Maybe

[Kevin]

On Sun, Jan 29, 2006 at 08:28:13PM -0600, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
> 19mm allen for what?  The diff plug?  If so, its a 14mm allen.

And you can make one using a metric bolt and a couple of nuts if nobody
around you sells a 14mm allen for what you want to pay for it.

K

Re: [MBZ] cheap SDL

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

what a basketcase.

Luther Gulseth wrote:


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4608839446




--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] '83 300SD unreliable fuel delivery

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

the screen in your tank is getting plugged up.

Luther Gulseth wrote:


My SD has it's moments of fuel pressure loss.  You can be crusing down the 
interstate and suddenly feel a power loss that lasts less than 1/2 
second...something exactly like taking your foot off and back on the throttle.  
Also, at cold start it's very rough and needs to have enough throttle to keep 
at least 800-900 RPM to run somewhat smooth and not die.  Glow plugs are barely 
2 years old and the injector pump and injectors were replaced by the P/O (maybe 
50kmi ago).  I've replaced all the rubber fuel line from tank to primer in the 
last 8 months.
I'm thinking from my experience in the semi-diesel world that I have a lift pump that's 
weak.  I read 07.1-145 "Checking fuel pump and bypass valve" and it seems that 
the bypass valve can get clogged and needs to be cleaned and the spring lengthened to 
increase tension.  Is there anyone else that has had an issue similar to this where 
cleaning the bypass valve fixed the issue or did they have to replace the fuel pump?

(btw fuel, primer, & lift...they all mean the same thing in the big diesel 
world)

TIA all,




--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] Blower motor fuse, 300 SDL

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

There is a strip fuse outside the fuse box, just be in a little 
rectangle housing near the main fuse box.


Harry Watkins wrote:


No blower operation at any push button position.  #16 fuse looked good but was 
replaced, no change.

Does anyone know if there is another fuse on the SDL?

There was a thread recently discussing a requirement to add an inline fuse for 
the 126 but that might have been for pre 86 and 87 SDLs, I don't know.

Thanks
Harry Watkins
Newton, MS
86 SDL Silver
85 300D Euro
86 SDL Gold
81 240D manual trans





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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

[MBZ] MI SEL needs Timing Chain

[Rick Knoble]

http://detroit.craigslist.org/car/129741619.html

No affiliation, ect.
Rick Knoble 
'85 300 CD
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And make sure it's a BRANDED product, and from the MB-approved list of
factory fresh air products.

On 1/28/06, Rich Thomas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> With nitrogen, pure, not the 80% stuff you get for free.
>
> --R
>
> Richard Murdoch wrote:
>
> >No point in doing all that unless you change the air in the
> tires.  Should probably do it at least twice to flush them.
> >
> >Richard Murdoch
> >
> >
> >
> >>Don't forget the wheel fuses and OE snogulator grease!
> >>
> >>Marshall
> >>--
> >>Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
> >>   "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >>'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5
> >>turbo 237kmi
> >>
> >>___
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> >>
> >>
> >
> >
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Re: [MBZ] '83 300SD unreliable fuel delivery

[Luther Gulseth]

it has been ongoing for several months.  I will get the tanks as low as 
possible and check the tank screen.

I'm getting the idea that lift pumps don't have many problems in the 617 
engines.

~
~
~On Monday, January 30, 2006, at 02:55 PM, Luther Gulseth wrote:
~
~>  I've never had a quality issue with their fuel.
~
~   There's a first time for everything.
~
~Johnny B.
~I Mac Therefore I am



-- 
Luther   KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (230,xxx kmi) 
'82 300CD (158,222 kmi)
'90 300E & '82 300D (parts or run?)

Re: [MBZ] '83 300SD unreliable fuel delivery

[UDG - Joop Schmeitz]

>95% of all fuel problems are caused because of dirt in the tank.

Empty your tank as much as possible (use hose or pump dsl out)
Go under your car, remove primary filter (this is the filter in the tank)

Have a look it will be dirty all over, clean it and the problem will be
solved.

Joopster
W116 runs 3.5 6cyl Dsl 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of John Berryman
Sent: 30 January, 2006 9:36 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '83 300SD unreliable fuel delivery


On Monday, January 30, 2006, at 02:55 PM, Luther Gulseth wrote:

>  I've never had a quality issue with their fuel.

There's a first time for everything.

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am
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Re: [MBZ] '83 300SD unreliable fuel delivery

[B Dike]

Luther,
   
  My cars will exhibit precisely those symptoms when I get a bad batch of bio, 
or if temps go below cloud point.
   
  Thanks,
   
  Bruce

Luther Gulseth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
  My SD has it's moments of fuel pressure loss. You can be crusing down the 
interstate and suddenly feel a power loss that lasts less than 1/2 
second...something exactly like taking your foot off and back on the throttle. 
Also, at cold start it's very rough and needs to have enough throttle to keep 
at least 800-900 RPM to run somewhat smooth and not die. Glow plugs are barely 
2 years old and the injector pump and injectors were replaced by the P/O (maybe 
50kmi ago). I've replaced all the rubber fuel line from tank to primer in the 
last 8 months.
I'm thinking from my experience in the semi-diesel world that I have a lift 
pump that's weak. I read 07.1-145 "Checking fuel pump and bypass valve" and it 
seems that the bypass valve can get clogged and needs to be cleaned and the 
spring lengthened to increase tension. Is there anyone else that has had an 
issue similar to this where cleaning the bypass valve fixed the issue or did 
they have to replace the fuel pump?

(btw fuel, primer, & lift...they all mean the same thing in the big diesel 
world)

TIA all,


-- 
Luther KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (230,xxx kmi) 
'82 300CD (158,222 kmi)
'90 300E & '82 300D (parts or run?)

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Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 240kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 202kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'

-
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On Monday, January 30, 2006, at 02:55 PM, Luther Gulseth wrote:

>  I've never had a quality issue with their fuel.

There's a first time for everything.

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am

Re: [MBZ] '83 300SD unreliable fuel delivery

[Luther Gulseth]

Fuel filters were changed after a Diesel Purge at the last valve adjust in 
early November.  Problem happens with a full or empty tank of fuel.  Primer 
pump might be a year old now and is the new style.  I don't know about water in 
the fuel, I might purchase some addative and give that a try.  I've always 
fueled at the same location (unless on a road trip, then always at FlyingJ) 
with both the CD and SD and my parents fill their '85D up at the same location. 
 I've never had a quality issue with their fuel.

~
~
~On Monday, January 30, 2006, at 01:47 PM, Luther Gulseth wrote:
~
~>
~
~   Have you checked/cleaned/changed the primary filter? They can and do 
~clog and I'm sure you know the car will run as you described. The 
~secondary (spin-on) filter can clog too but is less likely to.
~   Silly question: Could you be low on fuel? I've had some lying fuel 
~gauges cause me to run low. How about water in the fuel? It happens.
~
~Johnny B.
~I Mac Therefore I am



-- 
Luther   KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (230,xxx kmi) 
'82 300CD (158,222 kmi)
'90 300E & '82 300D (parts or run?)

Re: [MBZ] Blower motor fuse, 300 SDL

[Jim Cathey]

No blower operation at any push button position.  #16 fuse looked good 
but was replaced, no change.


It is also possible that the blower brushes have given up.
Other than the fan not working, is the ACC system acting OK?

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] '83 300SD unreliable fuel delivery

[Jim Cathey]

I'm thinking from my experience in the semi-diesel world that I have a 
lift pump that's weak.


The hand-operated primer pump can start to leak air.  Try using it,
if it oozes fuel at all it's a bad sign.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] '83 300SD unreliable fuel delivery

[John Berryman]

On Monday, January 30, 2006, at 01:47 PM, Luther Gulseth wrote:



My SD has it's moments of fuel pressure loss.  You can be crusing down 
the interstate and suddenly feel a power loss that lasts less than 1/2 
second...something exactly like taking your foot off and back on the 
throttle.  Also, at cold start it's very rough and needs to have 
enough throttle to keep at least 800-900 RPM to run somewhat smooth 
and not die.  Glow plugs are barely 2 years old and the injector pump 
and injectors were replaced by the P/O (maybe 50kmi ago).  I've 
replaced all the rubber fuel line from tank to primer in the last 8 
months.
I'm thinking from my experience in the semi-diesel world that I have a 
lift pump that's weak.  I read 07.1-145 "Checking fuel pump and bypass 
valve" and it seems that the bypass valve can get clogged and needs to 
be cleaned and the spring lengthened to increase tension.  Is there 
anyone else that has had an issue similar to this where cleaning the 
bypass valve fixed the issue or did they have to replace the fuel > pump?


(btw fuel, primer, & lift...they all mean the same thing in the big 
diesel world)


TIA all,



	Have you checked/cleaned/changed the primary filter? They can and do 
clog and I'm sure you know the car will run as you described. The 
secondary (spin-on) filter can clog too but is less likely to.
	Silly question: Could you be low on fuel? I've had some lying fuel 
gauges cause me to run low. How about water in the fuel? It happens.


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am

[MBZ] backwoods MD rodbender SDL

[Luther Gulseth]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4608832854


-- 
Luther   KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (230,xxx kmi) 
'82 300CD (158,222 kmi)
'90 300E & '82 300D (parts or run?)

Re: [MBZ] S600 wiring

[BillR]

Yeah - that is the one that got my interest.  It will be a few months at
least before I decide what I will get- something like that or an SDL or just
do a more through update on my SD.  Mostly at this point I am into creature
comfort.  I don't really drive enough to worry about it too much, but what
kind of mileage does that beast get?  I drive mostly around town, with
occasional road trips of a few hundred miles to keep things in shape.  
BillR 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of James Zavesky
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 10:15 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] S600 wiring

the wiring degrades! Plan on replacing ALL the harness'. The ETA's harness
is also know to degrade, fortunately my ETA's were fine. Replacing the
evaporator and rear accumulators are the least of your worries.

Are you watching the 1992 white one with the fogs in the bumper? That one
has late model wood in it, looks like it's been gone through.

Jim



- Original Message -
From: "BillR" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "'Mercedes Discussion List'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 9:49 AM
Subject: [MBZ] S600 wiring


> 
> 
> James - I have been toying with the idea of getting an S600 - one on ebay
> now looks pretty good, but I am not ready to make the jump.   What is the
> problem with the wiring?  I thought pre '94's should be ok.
>
> For all those who offered help with the erratic blinker:  It is still an
> occasional problem, but playing with it [flashers, blinkers, stalk]
usually
> stops it.  Never had the panel off where the flasher switch is located,
and
> I don't think I am getting contact cleaner where it needs to go.  Is there
a
> simple way to get access to that switch?
> BillR
> Jacksonville FL
> 1981 300SD  EM   270k miles
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
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>


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[MBZ] cheap SDL

[Luther Gulseth]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4608839446


-- 
Luther   KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (230,xxx kmi) 
'82 300CD (158,222 kmi)
'90 300E & '82 300D (parts or run?)

Re: [MBZ] Blower motor fuse, 300 SDL

[Loren Faeth]

Look on the inner fender in front of the fuse box.  Mine has a 1/2 inch 
square by 1 1/2 box there.  Inside it has a 30 A fuse strip, similar to the 
glow plug fuse. (GP fuse is 60A)


At 12:32 PM 1/30/2006, you wrote:
No blower operation at any push button position.  #16 fuse looked good but 
was replaced, no change.


Does anyone know if there is another fuse on the SDL?

There was a thread recently discussing a requirement to add an inline fuse 
for the 126 but that might have been for pre 86 and 87 SDLs, I don't know.


Thanks
Harry Watkins
Newton, MS
86 SDL Silver
85 300D Euro
86 SDL Gold
81 240D manual trans





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[MBZ] '83 300SD unreliable fuel delivery

[Luther Gulseth]

My SD has it's moments of fuel pressure loss.  You can be crusing down the 
interstate and suddenly feel a power loss that lasts less than 1/2 
second...something exactly like taking your foot off and back on the throttle.  
Also, at cold start it's very rough and needs to have enough throttle to keep 
at least 800-900 RPM to run somewhat smooth and not die.  Glow plugs are barely 
2 years old and the injector pump and injectors were replaced by the P/O (maybe 
50kmi ago).  I've replaced all the rubber fuel line from tank to primer in the 
last 8 months.
I'm thinking from my experience in the semi-diesel world that I have a lift 
pump that's weak.  I read 07.1-145 "Checking fuel pump and bypass valve" and it 
seems that the bypass valve can get clogged and needs to be cleaned and the 
spring lengthened to increase tension.  Is there anyone else that has had an 
issue similar to this where cleaning the bypass valve fixed the issue or did 
they have to replace the fuel pump?

(btw fuel, primer, & lift...they all mean the same thing in the big diesel 
world)

TIA all,


-- 
Luther   KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (230,xxx kmi) 
'82 300CD (158,222 kmi)
'90 300E & '82 300D (parts or run?)

[MBZ] Blower motor fuse, 300 SDL

[Harry Watkins]

No blower operation at any push button position.  #16 fuse looked good but was 
replaced, no change.

Does anyone know if there is another fuse on the SDL?

There was a thread recently discussing a requirement to add an inline fuse for 
the 126 but that might have been for pre 86 and 87 SDLs, I don't know.

Thanks
Harry Watkins
Newton, MS
86 SDL Silver
85 300D Euro
86 SDL Gold
81 240D manual trans

Re: [MBZ] I guess everyone else is as busy as I was

[David Brodbeck]

Mitch Haley wrote:

I was even more amazed to find out the 2.5L "4 Tech" engine did not
take the PF47 spin-on filter. There was a 3" diameter oil drain
plug, with a paper cartridge filter above it.


Ah, yes.  A friend of mine who used to own one of those cars had some 
choice words about that design.  It makes for rather messy oil changes.  
That engine's tendancy to ooze oil all over the place is one of the 
reasons they tended to catch fire in the cramped engine bays of Fieros.


GM cars of that era are kind of weird.  They either fly apart before 
100,000 miles, or keep running long after you wish they would fly apart 
so you could feel justified in getting something else. ;)

Re: [MBZ] Hey LT Don...How's the VW?

[David Brodbeck]

Loren Faeth wrote:
It was converted to the "Fast" glow plugs.  The slow glow plugs are still 
faster than the loop type glow plugs..,
Turn the key on, pullout the cold start handle, fasten the seat belt and 
ignite the fuel (hit the starter)  Zoom!   goes like a ra*ed ape
  


I love how fast VW diesels catch on warm starts, too.  Most I've seen 
will start on the first compression stroke.  Just touch the key and 
they're running.

Re: [MBZ] S600 wiring

[BillR]

Marshall and John - Thanks for the help.  I'll continue with the numerous
repitions, and try to get at that switch, and only consider VERY well priced
140's or those with reworked wiring. 
BillR
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Marshall Booth
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 11:16 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] S600 wiring

BillR wrote:
>  
>  
> James - I have been toying with the idea of getting an S600 - one on ebay
> now looks pretty good, but I am not ready to make the jump.   What is the
> problem with the wiring?  I thought pre '94's should be ok.
>  
> For all those who offered help with the erratic blinker:  It is still 
> an occasional problem, but playing with it [flashers, blinkers, stalk] 
> usually stops it.  Never had the panel off where the flasher switch is 
> located, and I don't think I am getting contact cleaner where it needs 
> to go.  Is there a simple way to get access to that switch?

Some cars (W140s for sure) got the biodegradable wiring (and all of the
wiring problem associated with that) in 1992 while others (like the 124
diesel) didn't have until 1995. Just depends on on the particular chassis
AND engine.

Usually switching the Hazard switch on and off about 100 times will clean it
or break so it requires replacement to restore reliable function. Have you
tried cleaning (or buckling/unbucking about 50 times) the seat belt buckle
switch? When it gets dirty in early '80s cars - the buzzer may sound.

Marshall
-- 
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5
turbo 237kmi

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Re: [MBZ] Replacing ignition tumbler w123 (300D)

[JFreezn]

 
In a message dated 1/30/2006 9:15:12 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

This  past weekend I replaced the ignition tumbler in my 82 300TD.  I was  
surprised that the write-ups that I found on the Internet were almost all for  
the w124, the series after mine, which use a different tool and has a  
different process.  It is really very easy.

I used a hair pin, one  of those symmetrical ones with all the plastic 
removed from the tip, or you  could use a pin, but you need very stiff wire.  
The 
w123's have a single  hole on the face of the tumbler where the key goes in.  
By 
inserting the  wire in there, after turning the key to position 1 you release 
a protrusion  from the tumbler.  You can find this hole by putting the key in 
and  turning while gently pushing the hair pin in towards the tumbler.  After 
 you push the pin in you can pull on the key which will release the  tumbler. 
 The tumbler will come out about an 1/8th of an inch.  At  this point you 
will be able to unscrew the black cover that goes around the  tumbler.  There 
is 
a special tool that is used to get good friction on  this heavy metal cover as 
it is smooth and can be hard to get started.  I  did not use this tool.  
After this cover is unscrewed both the black  cover piece and the tumbler will 
come completely out. You basically just  reverse the process to get it all back 
together.  Taking your new tumbler  and putting the black cover over it with 
the pin in place then inserting this  all into the ignition assembly. You then 
screw the black cover back on until  it finally is far enough in that the 
spring loaded protrusion pops out and  stops the cover from turning. Finished.

Hope this helps someone with  this job.  If you wait too long to do this, 
until the tumbler fails it is  very expensive and time consuming to have to 
drill 
out the  lock.




Dan,
 
Right on, Dan,  I used the very same procedure to replace the tumbler  on my 
116 car, which was cracked and still working.  The new key, and  copies made 
from it, also made opening the trunk much easier.
 
Thanks for the writeup.  

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 262 K miles 
98 ML 320, 140 K  miles

Re: [MBZ] Rear Diff PM/Sr. Moment

[JFreezn]

 
In a message dated 1/30/2006 7:43:30 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

What  rear diff lubricant was I told is the beat to put in after I make sure 
the  fill plug can be removed (14mm Johnny B) and I drain out the  old?



Bob,
 
I use Mobil 1 gear oil in all my cars.  Yours will take 1 quart.   You can 
get 75W-90 at Autozone, for about 10 bucks a quart, and Mobil  has just 
released 
a heavier synthetic which might be ideal for Phoenix,  90W-140 I think, but 
it is more expensive at about $15 a quart.
 
If you get the plastic can with the tapered tip lid, you can just cut  the 
tip off and squeeze the oil into the differential.  Roll the end of the  can as 
you go.  No oil pump needed!
 
Regards,  

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 262 K miles 
98 ML 320, 140 K  miles

Re: [MBZ] motor mounts 116/123/126 whats the deal?

[Rusty Cullens]

Only the 300SE & SEL have left and right.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Marshall Booth
Sent: Saturday, January 28, 2006 8:09 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] motor mounts 116/123/126 whats the deal?

Bob DuPuy wrote:
> Is the or is there not a difference between the port side and
starboard side
> motor mounts. I've been told there used to be but now they are
supperseded
> to the same number, and now that there is a difference. what is the
real
> truth?

Depends. Some engines/cars have different left and right mounts and some

don't.

Marshall

-- 
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5

turbo 237kmi

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Re: [MBZ] motor mounts 116/123/126 whats the deal?

[Rusty Cullens]

They are all the same, always have been. 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bob DuPuy
Sent: Saturday, January 28, 2006 7:48 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] motor mounts 116/123/126 whats the deal?

Is the or is there not a difference between the port side and starboard
side
motor mounts. I've been told there used to be but now they are
supperseded
to the same number, and now that there is a difference. what is the real
truth?

Bob DuPuy
Parrish, Fl
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Re: [MBZ] S600 wiring

[Marshall Booth]

BillR wrote:

 
For all those who offered help with the erratic blinker:  It is still an

occasional problem, but playing with it [flashers, blinkers, stalk] usually
stops it.  Never had the panel off where the flasher switch is located, and
I don't think I am getting contact cleaner where it needs to go.  Is there a
simple way to get access to that switch?


Some cars (W140s for sure) got the biodegradable wiring (and all of the 
wiring problem associated with that) in 1992 while others (like the 124 
diesel) didn't have until 1995. Just depends on on the particular 
chassis AND engine.


Usually switching the Hazard switch on and off about 100 times will 
clean it or break so it requires replacement to restore reliable 
function. Have you tried cleaning (or buckling/unbucking about 50 times) 
the seat belt buckle switch? When it gets dirty in early '80s cars - the 
buzzer may sound.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

[MBZ] Replacing ignition tumbler w123 (300D)

[dieselbenz24]

This past weekend I replaced the ignition tumbler in my 82 300TD.  I was 
surprised that the write-ups that I found on the Internet were almost all for 
the w124, the series after mine, which use a different tool and has a different 
process.  It is really very easy.
 
I used a hair pin, one of those symmetrical ones with all the plastic removed 
from the tip, or you could use a pin, but you need very stiff wire.  The w123's 
have a single hole on the face of the tumbler where the key goes in.  By 
inserting the wire in there, after turning the key to position 1 you release a 
protrusion from the tumbler.  You can find this hole by putting the key in and 
turning while gently pushing the hair pin in towards the tumbler.  After you 
push the pin in you can pull on the key which will release the tumbler.  The 
tumbler will come out about an 1/8th of an inch.  At this point you will be 
able to unscrew the black cover that goes around the tumbler.  There is a 
special tool that is used to get good friction on this heavy metal cover as it 
is smooth and can be hard to get started.  I did not use this tool.  After this 
cover is unscrewed both the black cover piece and the tumbler will come 
completely out. You basically just reverse the process to get it all back 
together.  Taking your new tumbler and putting the black cover over it with the 
pin in place then inserting this all into the ignition assembly. You then screw 
the black cover back on until it finally is far enough in that the spring 
loaded protrusion pops out and stops the cover from turning. Finished.
 
Hope this helps someone with this job.  If you wait too long to do this, until 
the tumbler fails it is very expensive and time consuming to have to drill out 
the lock.
 
Regards to the list,
 
Dan Elliott
82 300D-T 92kmi

Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam 
and email virus protection.

Re: [MBZ] motor mounts 116/123/126 whats the deal?

[Marshall Booth]

Hans Neureiter wrote:

The only difference I can see  on my 126/617.95 is that the right side hase
a tapped hole (6mm ?) on top with nothing in it. The other side doesn't.


One side is stiffer than the other when the sides are NOT identical. 
It's NOT something you can easily see (that's why they were color coded).


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

Re: [MBZ] motor mounts 116/123/126 whats the deal?

[John Berryman]

On Monday, January 30, 2006, at 10:13 AM, Hans Neureiter wrote:

The only difference I can see  on my 126/617.95 is that the right side 
hase
a tapped hole (6mm ?) on top with nothing in it. The other side 
doesn't.




	Could it be for the engine shock absorber? Or a missing bolt? the 
mounting from side to side is the same, one bolt up (10mm allen) and 
two going down (6mm Allen)


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am

Re: [MBZ] S600 wiring

[John Berryman]

On Monday, January 30, 2006, at 09:49 AM, BillR wrote:

For all those who offered help with the erratic blinker:  It is still 
an
occasional problem, but playing with it [flashers, blinkers, stalk] 
usually
stops it.  Never had the panel off where the flasher switch is 
located, and
I don't think I am getting contact cleaner where it needs to go.  Is 
there a

simple way to get access to that switch?
BillR
Jacksonville FL
1981 300SD  EM   270k miles



	Yes, remove it and disassemble, clean, lube and put it back together. 
Most switches simply pull out of the dash/console.


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am

Re: [MBZ] Rear Diff PM/Sr. Moment

[John Berryman]

On Monday, January 30, 2006, at 09:43 AM, Bob Rentfro wrote:

What rear diff lubricant was I told is the beat to put in after I make 
sure the fill plug can be removed (14mm Johnny B) and I drain out the 
old?


Bob Rentfro



	I use Amsoil 75-90 long life synthetic or 80-90 synthetic  and Mobil 1 
 75-90 synthetic gear lube.


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am

Re: [MBZ] S600 wiring

[James Zavesky]

the wiring degrades! Plan on replacing ALL the harness'. The ETA's harness
is also know to degrade, fortunately my ETA's were fine. Replacing the
evaporator and rear accumulators are the least of your worries.

Are you watching the 1992 white one with the fogs in the bumper? That one
has late model wood in it, looks like it's been gone through.

Jim



- Original Message - 
From: "BillR" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "'Mercedes Discussion List'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 9:49 AM
Subject: [MBZ] S600 wiring


> 
> 
> James - I have been toying with the idea of getting an S600 - one on ebay
> now looks pretty good, but I am not ready to make the jump.   What is the
> problem with the wiring?  I thought pre '94's should be ok.
>
> For all those who offered help with the erratic blinker:  It is still an
> occasional problem, but playing with it [flashers, blinkers, stalk]
usually
> stops it.  Never had the panel off where the flasher switch is located,
and
> I don't think I am getting contact cleaner where it needs to go.  Is there
a
> simple way to get access to that switch?
> BillR
> Jacksonville FL
> 1981 300SD  EM   270k miles
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>

Re: [MBZ] motor mounts 116/123/126 whats the deal?

[Hans Neureiter]

The only difference I can see  on my 126/617.95 is that the right side hase
a tapped hole (6mm ?) on top with nothing in it. The other side doesn't.

--
Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX
'82 300SD, '95 E300D

Re: [MBZ] 1991 Mercedes 350SDL

[John Berryman]

On Monday, January 30, 2006, at 09:17 AM, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Is this one of the rod benders?  Is 56k too early for the problem to 
arise?
It doesn;t mention the problem being addressed - its a W126 and not a 
W140

chassis - but the engine is my concern -



	As far as I know, all 3.5s are rod benders. I have heard of these 
engines being bad as early as 35,000. I have driven a couple with over 
200,000 that had no problems or excessive oil consumption up to that 
time. I'm sure these were the exception, not the rule.


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am

Re: [MBZ] 240D Belt Problem

[John Berryman]

On Monday, January 30, 2006, at 09:07 AM, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


 I usually check things over about once a
month but since becoming disabled and no longer driving to work the 
240D was
being used less & less & I obviously wasn;t checking things often 
enough.




Disabled Larry? I was gone for a long time what happened? I hope your 
mending well.


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am

Re: [MBZ] 300CD Tranny question

[Gary Thompson]

Paul,

If it's flaring on ALL shifts, it's probably vacuum modulator related. There
used to be a good article on mbz.org that described adjusting the vacuum
switch on the top of the IP and the vacuum modulator down on the
transmission.

If you're making the Dallas to Austin trip again, you could stop by and I'll
help you put the gauges on it. I've still got my homemeade modulator
pressure gauge left over from my 300D 722.315 days.


Gary Thompson
Georgetown, TX
1995 E320


On 1/28/06, paul <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> I recently purchased a '83 300CD for dirt cheap, and drove it from
> Dallas to Austin and back.  I noticed that there's a slight flair from
> 1st to 2nd, and sometimes from 2nd to 3rd.  It also takes a second a or
> two to drop into reverse.  What should i inspect/replace first?  B2
> piston?
>
> 'tanks,
>
> Paul
>

[MBZ] Rear Diff PM/Sr. Moment

[Bob Rentfro]

What rear diff lubricant was I told is the beat to put in after I make sure the 
fill plug can be removed (14mm Johnny B) and I drain out the old?

Bob Rentfro
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Re: [MBZ] 1991 Mercedes 350SDL

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

yes its a rod bender, with those miles they could bend at any moment. 
If it had 300K on it its possible they might not bend.


[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


eBay item 4608220272 is a '91 350SDL with ~56k miles.

Is this one of the rod benders?  Is 56k too early for the problem to arise? 
It doesn;t mention the problem being addressed - its a W126 and not a W140 
chassis - but the engine is my concern -


I'm not crazy about big black MBs & the currect price of $12.6k+ is beyond 
my comfort zone - so this is info more for my reference than anythng else -


Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info 




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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] 240D Belt Problem

[Loren Faeth]

I have had the best longevity with Continental belts.  You can get them 
from Rusty  US made belts are of all forms of quality, and it is not 
usually obvious which are good and which are not.  There some very good 
ones out there but Conti belts are consistent.


At 08:07 AM 1/30/2006, you wrote:

Had a strange problem with my 78 240D last Thursday - was on the Interstate
doing 70 or so when I heard a bump and noticed the dash lights on and water
temp rising - knew a belt was gone so I switched off and coasted to a stop.

The AC belt was off its pulleys and laying on the engine bay - the alt/water
pump/ crank belt was no where to be seen.  I saw it a 1/4 mile down the road
in 2 pieces!  Anyway - couldn;t get the PS belt loose to remove so I cut it
and got my spare belt from the trunk - didn;t have proper wrnech to adjust
the alternator so the belt would fit so I managed to pry it on over the main
pulley - it was a little loose but it got us home.

All new belts (the old ones were only about 5 years/30,000 miles old) and
now all is well - but it has emphasized the need to do a detailed check of
the belts more often than I did.  I usually check things over about once a
month but since becoming disabled and no longer driving to work the 240D was
being used less & less & I obviously wasn;t checking things often enough.

  It always starts instantly (without block heater) in weather to the
teens - but it seems quieter now that it has new belts.  Anyway - take a few
minutes to examine your belts - it ain;t NO fun to work on the side of the
road!  I feel *very* fortunate to have been able to wrestle the belt back
over the pulleys so we could get home without a tow.  I've also updated my
tool kit to include wrenches needed to loosen & retighten the alternator.  I
can easily get along with out AC and PS - but we ain;t going NO where
without the water pump.  Oh yeah, I'm glad I had a razor to cut the PS
belt - made life easier -

Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 78 240D - 287k)

A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info



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[MBZ] 1991 Mercedes 350SDL

[l02turner]

eBay item 4608220272 is a '91 350SDL with ~56k miles.

Is this one of the rod benders?  Is 56k too early for the problem to arise? 
It doesn;t mention the problem being addressed - its a W126 and not a W140 
chassis - but the engine is my concern -


I'm not crazy about big black MBs & the currect price of $12.6k+ is beyond 
my comfort zone - so this is info more for my reference than anythng else -


Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info 

Re: [MBZ] O/T Satellite Antenna

[Lee Levitt]

Will do.

Heater wires should not be a problem. Heated windshield, as in late model
Lexi or Range Rover, can be a problem. Interestingly, I had a "solar"
windshield in my '02 Audi that blocked my Fastlane transponder and probably
reduced the performance of my Valentine V1, while the Nav system worked
fine.

Lee 
'93 300D 2.5L 182K
'95 A6 quattro avant 150K
'96 A6 quattro avant 113K

> -Original Message-
> From: OK Don [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> Sent: Friday, January 27, 2006 8:54 AM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Mercedes Discussion List
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] O/T Satellite Antenna
> 
> Let us know if the GPS antenna works inder the rear shelf - I 
> don't know whether the heater wires in the rear window will 
> block the signal enough to be a problem.
> 
> >
> > On my W124 I installed the GPS antenna below the rear deck, next to 
> > the speaker. Again, no metal between the antenna and the 
> sky, and it's 
> > totally invisible. Note - I have not yet hooked up the antenna so I 
> > can't verify that it works, but it *should*.
> >
> > So you might want to consider hiding it. Easier to install 
> and wire, 
> > no worries about losing it in a carwash or ice storm, less 
> likely for 
> > a thief to target your car...
> >
> > Lee
> > '93 300D 2.5 182K
> 
> --
> OK Don, KD5NRO
> Norman, OK
> '90 300D 243K, Rattled
> '87 300SDL 290K, Limo Lite, or blue car
> '81 240D 173K, Gramps, or yellow car
> '78 450SLC 67K, brown car
> '97 Ply Grand Voyager 78K Van Go
> 
> 

[MBZ] 240D Belt Problem

[l02turner]

Had a strange problem with my 78 240D last Thursday - was on the Interstate 
doing 70 or so when I heard a bump and noticed the dash lights on and water 
temp rising - knew a belt was gone so I switched off and coasted to a stop.


The AC belt was off its pulleys and laying on the engine bay - the alt/water 
pump/ crank belt was no where to be seen.  I saw it a 1/4 mile down the road 
in 2 pieces!  Anyway - couldn;t get the PS belt loose to remove so I cut it 
and got my spare belt from the trunk - didn;t have proper wrnech to adjust 
the alternator so the belt would fit so I managed to pry it on over the main 
pulley - it was a little loose but it got us home.


All new belts (the old ones were only about 5 years/30,000 miles old) and 
now all is well - but it has emphasized the need to do a detailed check of 
the belts more often than I did.  I usually check things over about once a 
month but since becoming disabled and no longer driving to work the 240D was 
being used less & less & I obviously wasn;t checking things often enough.


 It always starts instantly (without block heater) in weather to the 
teens - but it seems quieter now that it has new belts.  Anyway - take a few 
minutes to examine your belts - it ain;t NO fun to work on the side of the 
road!  I feel *very* fortunate to have been able to wrestle the belt back 
over the pulleys so we could get home without a tow.  I've also updated my 
tool kit to include wrenches needed to loosen & retighten the alternator.  I 
can easily get along with out AC and PS - but we ain;t going NO where 
without the water pump.  Oh yeah, I'm glad I had a razor to cut the PS 
belt - made life easier -


Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 78 240D - 287k)

A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info 

Re: [MBZ] 12 Cyl 600S vs 8 Cyl 500

[James Zavesky]

we have the 8 in the SL and in my opinion that is the proper motor for the
car. plenty of power, handles well. doesn't seem to have the wiring problems
the 1990's S class has. From what I've read the major problem is the oil
tubes in the motor.

Jim

- Original Message - 
From: "Hendrik Riessen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 7:52 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 12 Cyl 600S vs 8 Cyl 500


> How does that compare to the 5 litre V8? Some say that the V8 is the
better
> motor, particularly in the SL due to the extra weight of the V12. Have you
> driven a 600SL?
> I don't think that the extra weight is going to affect handling in the
sedan
> as much and the extra torque would be an asset in the heavier four door.
>
> Hendrik
> with the mighty four banger Merc and a couple of six cylinder diesel 4x4's
>
> - Original Message - 
> From: "James Zavesky" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 9:59 PM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] 12 Cyl 600S?
>
>
> > 402 horsepower
> > 428 torque
> >
> > Amazing car to drive. Love ours. Lots of power. Wiring sucks.
> >
> > James Zavesky
> > 1991 500SL
> > 1992 600SEL
> > 1995 E320
> >
> >
> > - Original Message - 
> > From: "Brian Chase" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 1:05 AM
> > Subject: Re: [MBZ] 12 Cyl 600S?
> >
> >
> >> Alex, yes - that's what I recall and am talking about when I say it
> >> looked
> >> sort of out of place (I thought bogus). Good observation. Stout car
> > though.
> >> Anybody know the h.p., torque, and performance specs?
> >>
> >> Brian
> >>
>
> ___
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> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>

Re: [MBZ] 12 Cyl 600S vs 8 Cyl 500

[Hendrik Riessen]

How does that compare to the 5 litre V8? Some say that the V8 is the better 
motor, particularly in the SL due to the extra weight of the V12. Have you 
driven a 600SL?
I don't think that the extra weight is going to affect handling in the sedan 
as much and the extra torque would be an asset in the heavier four door.


Hendrik
with the mighty four banger Merc and a couple of six cylinder diesel 4x4's

- Original Message - 
From: "James Zavesky" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 9:59 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 12 Cyl 600S?



402 horsepower
428 torque

Amazing car to drive. Love ours. Lots of power. Wiring sucks.

James Zavesky
1991 500SL
1992 600SEL
1995 E320


- Original Message - 
From: "Brian Chase" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 1:05 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 12 Cyl 600S?


Alex, yes - that's what I recall and am talking about when I say it 
looked

sort of out of place (I thought bogus). Good observation. Stout car

though.

Anybody know the h.p., torque, and performance specs?

Brian

Re: [MBZ] 12 Cyl 600S?

[James Zavesky]

402 horsepower
428 torque

Amazing car to drive. Love ours. Lots of power. Wiring sucks.

James Zavesky
1991 500SL
1992 600SEL
1995 E320


- Original Message - 
From: "Brian Chase" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 1:05 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 12 Cyl 600S?


> Alex, yes - that's what I recall and am talking about when I say it looked
> sort of out of place (I thought bogus). Good observation. Stout car
though.
> Anybody know the h.p., torque, and performance specs?
>
> Brian
>
> >From: Alex Chamberlain <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >To: Mercedes Discussion List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >Subject: Re: [MBZ] 12 Cyl 600S?
> >Date: Sun, 29 Jan 2006 19:06:36 -0800
> >
> >On 1/29/06, Brian Chase <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > > Fanciers, I was in Minneapolis tonight to hit a party at First Avenue,
> >and I
> > > walked past an interesting Benz: From the late '80s or early 90's by
me
> > > estimation. Long wheelbase. Didn't pay much attention 'til I saw the
> > > uncharacteristic "V12" emblem on the side (I think behind the rear
> >passenger
> > > window) (the style of the lettering was what looked funny to me).
> >
> >I agree that the "V12" badge looks odd on those.  The "V" in
> >particular, I seem to recall, doesn't seem to fit in with the other
> >characters in the Mercedes font.
> >
> >Alex Chamberlain
> >'87 300D Turbo
> >
> >___
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> >For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> >For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> >To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>
> _
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> get there! http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=Retirement
>
>
> ___
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> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>

Re: [MBZ] OT: Genset

[Rory]

I got to drive a 2.5td Pajero (US Montero) while living in Japan.  Great
setup for that type of vehicle.


Rory Morrison
Oroville, WA
1985 300SD
1982 300TD

Re: [MBZ] 12 Cyl 600S?

[Brian Chase]

Alex, yes - that's what I recall and am talking about when I say it looked 
sort of out of place (I thought bogus). Good observation. Stout car though. 
Anybody know the h.p., torque, and performance specs?


Brian


From: Alex Chamberlain <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Mercedes Discussion List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 12 Cyl 600S?
Date: Sun, 29 Jan 2006 19:06:36 -0800

On 1/29/06, Brian Chase <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Fanciers, I was in Minneapolis tonight to hit a party at First Avenue, 
and I

> walked past an interesting Benz: From the late '80s or early 90's by me
> estimation. Long wheelbase. Didn't pay much attention 'til I saw the
> uncharacteristic "V12" emblem on the side (I think behind the rear 
passenger

> window) (the style of the lettering was what looked funny to me).

I agree that the "V12" badge looks odd on those.  The "V" in
particular, I seem to recall, doesn't seem to fit in with the other
characters in the Mercedes font.

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo

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Re: [MBZ] I guess everyone else is as busy as I was

[John Berryman]

On Sunday, January 29, 2006, at 10:26 PM, Marshall Booth wrote:


 When you can
get Amsoil for the same price as Mobil 1, I see NO problem using it, 
but

if it costs more, go with Mobil!

Marshall



	To go and buy Mobil 1 products is at least a 50 mile round trip and 
then half of the time I can't find what I need or enough of it in 1 
store. Last week I went to 4 places and called 6 looking for Mobil 1 
trans fluid to no avail.

So I pay a bit more for a good product, delivered to my door.
	I have 3-5qt jugs of M1 15-50 that I found at a Wal-mart last month. I 
bought them all and wanted another, the store clerk told me they won't 
be carrying the 15-50 at that store any more.



Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am

Re: [MBZ] 12 Cyl 600S?

[John Berryman]

On Sunday, January 29, 2006, at 10:06 PM, Alex Chamberlain wrote:


I agree that the "V12" badge looks odd on those.  The "V" in
particular, I seem to recall, doesn't seem to fit in with the other
characters in the Mercedes font.

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo



It does stand-out. Maybe that's the intention.

Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am

Re: [MBZ] Rear Diff PM...Maybe

[John Berryman]

On Sunday, January 29, 2006, at 09:28 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:


19mm allen for what?  The diff plug?  If so, its a 14mm allen.

John Berryman wrote:



	To beat the 14mm in, what else. I was thinking conversion 9/16 and the 
9 got caught up in it somehow.


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am

Re: [MBZ] Hey LT Don...How's the VW?

[Loren Faeth]

It was converted to the "Fast" glow plugs.  The slow glow plugs are still 
faster than the loop type glow plugs..,
Turn the key on, pullout the cold start handle, fasten the seat belt and 
ignite the fuel (hit the starter)  Zoom!   goes like a ra*ed ape


At 12:00 AM 1/29/2006, you wrote:

Bob --

Starter went in today. I had to go over and assist the "mech" with putting
together the ball bearings / race of the half shaft. Jeff had spent an hour
on it and gave up in frustration, and I spent two hours studying the
assembly of the removed version. Suddenly the light bulb went off -- turn
the race sideways and slide in, instead of trying to do everything flat --
and in a few seconds I was instant hero.

Tomorrow, we install the new half shaft then drive the car over to where
Jeff works (Goodyear). There, we put the car up on the lift and Jeff will
fabricate a new exhaust system. Bleed the brakes, fix slow leak in one tire,
maybe do a coolant change, and I can drive it to work on Monday morning.

I am really impressed with the VW diesel engine. Pre-glow is single-digit
seconds, not the minute or so that I am used to with the 240D. Idle is
smooth. I can't wait to take it up thru the 5 speeds to see how well the
clutch works and how smooth the shifting is.

On 1/28/06, Bob Rentfro <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Hey LT Don, how's the VW doing?
>
> Bob Rentfro
> '77 300D 148K
> '01 VW Beetle TDI '61K
> Litchfield Park, AZ
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--
1977 240D
1983 VW Quantum turbo diesel 5-speed
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen
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Re: [MBZ] ISO 300D turbo (W123) in GOOD condition

[Loren Faeth]

Jeez, you should have bought him the 700 dollar SDL.  It could have been 
made decent with some labor, a welder and a few parts.



At 07:22 PM 1/28/2006, you wrote:
anybody have any leads, preferably in the midwest  area, so we (friend and 
I) can check it out? My parish priest wants  one. He loves my SD and one 
of his teachers in the school (a MOPAR nut)  got a great deal on a nice 
240D a few months back. (He already replaced  both axles (one was bad and 
he figured he might as well do them both  because they were cheap and easy 
- MB axles too)) and upgraded the read  diff for more speed in 4th - MOPAR 
guys make good diesel converts).  With 9 diesel MB's (newest being 1985) 
"gracing" the Church parking  lot, Father Dean wants to sell his Toyota 
and jump on the bandwagon.


  Any help is appreciated.



Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
-1992 Volkswagen Golf, diesel, 185K km, "Nanook"
-1987 300TD, 151K, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300SD, 211K, "Wulf"
-1976 240D, ?K, "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"

-

 What are the most popular cars? Find out at Yahoo! Autos
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Re: [MBZ] Maybach further damage

[RELNGSON]

> <.
> 
Romanian.

RLE

Re: [MBZ] I guess everyone else is as busy as I was

[Marshall Booth]

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
when I first read this just now I though marshall was switching to 
amsoil


Amsoil sells real good oil. Mobil supplies them with the raw oil and 
they concoct the additive package. The tribologists at Mobil say the 
additive package is really great for some special situations (like 
racing and other severe operating situations). There is NO evidence that 
the additive package that Amsoil uses is of ANY benefit under more 
normal operating conditions and the longevity of Amsoil (or Mobil 1) is 
of no value in a Mercedes diesel since the oil must be changed to get 
rid of the soot LONG before the oil or additives wear out. When you can 
get Amsoil for the same price as Mobil 1, I see NO problem using it, but 
if it costs more, go with Mobil!


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

Re: [MBZ] motor mounts 116/123/126 whats the deal?

[Mitch Haley]

Chuck Landenberger wrote:
> 
> Bob,
> 
> When I first got my '80 300SD (W116) in '89, there were different
> motor mounts for each side.  IIRC, the right side was a little
> "stiffer" to offset the torque.  Don't remember when it changed in
> 90's, but they are now the same.  And they are a 123 part number.

I got two different ones from Rusty in 2002 or 2003. I just checked
Rusty's web site, shows different mounts by Febi (right) and Lemforder
(left) for $24.15  and $20.17, or Corteco/Freudenberg lists the same part
number for right and left, only $13.64. If putting a Febi on the right
and a Lemforder on the left makes it work as the factory intended, it
might be worth the extra $17 or so. 

Question for the people who have claimed very short life for new
motor mounts, were those Freudenberg mounts?

Re: [MBZ] 12 Cyl 600S?

[Alex Chamberlain]

On 1/29/06, Brian Chase <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Fanciers, I was in Minneapolis tonight to hit a party at First Avenue, and I
> walked past an interesting Benz: From the late '80s or early 90's by me
> estimation. Long wheelbase. Didn't pay much attention 'til I saw the
> uncharacteristic "V12" emblem on the side (I think behind the rear passenger
> window) (the style of the lettering was what looked funny to me).

I agree that the "V12" badge looks odd on those.  The "V" in
particular, I seem to recall, doesn't seem to fit in with the other
characters in the Mercedes font.

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo

Re: [MBZ] motor mounts 116/123/126 whats the deal?

[Chuck Landenberger]

Bob,

When I first got my '80 300SD (W116) in '89, there were different  
motor mounts for each side.  IIRC, the right side was a little  
"stiffer" to offset the torque.  Don't remember when it changed in  
90's, but they are now the same.  And they are a 123 part number.


Take care,

Chuck
1980 300SD
1986 190E 2.3 16V... Now in Abilene, TX and taking her back to  
Phoenix.

On Jan 28, 2006, at 6:09 PM, Marshall Booth wrote:


Bob DuPuy wrote:
Is the or is there not a difference between the port side and  
starboard side
motor mounts. I've been told there used to be but now they are  
supperseded
to the same number, and now that there is a difference. what is  
the real

truth?


Depends. Some engines/cars have different left and right mounts and  
some

don't.

Marshall
 

Re: [MBZ] End of month car list

[Alex Chamberlain]

Aha!  I get it... if that chart is correct, in '91 they made both a
300GD with a 603.931 (non-turbo, Marshall says) and a 350GD with a
603.972 rodbender.  Interesting.  Too bad they didn't do the same with
the W126!

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo

On 1/29/06, Luther Gulseth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> The GD's had the 617 in them until '89 and the 616 until '87.
> http://4x4abc.com/G-Class/engines.html
>
> On Sun, 29 Jan 2006 18:09:22 -0600, Alex Chamberlain
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > I was going by the year, figured the only 6-cyl diesel they made in
> > '91 was the dreaded 3.5.
> >
> > On 1/29/06, redghost <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >> I am thinking it is.  Does not look like the 3l 603 and more like the
> >> bender engine I saw at the shop
> >>
> >> On Saturday, January 28, 2006, at 11:42 PM, Alex Chamberlain wrote:
> >>
> >> >> http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/129117173.html  --  300GD  $31k
> >> >
> >> > Rodbender?
> >> >
> >> > Alex Chamberlain
> >> > '87 300D Turbo
>

Re: [MBZ] Rear Diff PM...Maybe

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

19mm allen for what?  The diff plug?  If so, its a 14mm allen.

John Berryman wrote:


On Sunday, January 29, 2006, at 06:11 PM, Bob Rentfro wrote:



How about the rear diff PM...
I noticed that it is seeping a tad and since it's in dry lay up until 
I get
the caliper rebuild parts from Rusty perhaps I should service the 
critter.

What must I do?

Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 148K




	You'll need a 19mm allen. Make sure the fill plug can be removed prior 
to draining it. I use synthetic gear lube, Mobil 1 and Amsoil . Again, 
they flow much better in the serious cold. I can tell the difference 
between conventional gear lubes and the sytnthetic by how fast my car 
rolls down this big hill by my house.
	I test products in the Frozen White North, mostly because that's where 
I live. Although some of my methods may not seem too scientific the 
results tell me what I need to know.
	As I have mentioned before, I have a black belt in driving diesels in 
extreme cold temperatures. Synthetic lubricants make it much better.


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am
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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] I guess everyone else is as busy as I was

[Mitch Haley]

I spent 1 1/2 days this weekend trying to help my nephew-in-law
get his Blazer running well enough to drive to work tomorrow. 
About noon Sunday, I threw in the towel and bought him a 1988 
Cutlass Ciera. Then we got to spend an afternoon cobbling together
the exhaust, catching up on PM, etc. I was amazed that the old heap
tracked smooth and straight on the freeway at 80mph when we test
drove it. I offered the PO $300, she took it without hesitation.
I was even more amazed to find out the 2.5L "4 Tech" engine did not
take the PF47 spin-on filter. There was a 3" diameter oil drain
plug, with a paper cartridge filter above it. Whoever bungled the
last oil change glued it together with silicone instead of replacing
the rotting rubber gasket. Ever try to buy a gasket for one of those
giant drain plugs at 5pm on a Sunday? It took a while to help the
Autozone guys find it in their computer, not in stock. At least one
of the guys at Advance Auto Parts knew what it was, but he said he
couldn't get one until Tuesday. I ended up gluing it in with
silicone. He can buy a new gasket when the dealer is open, and
I'll replace it in three weeks when he's got 3000 miles on the oil.

Now I'm doing my laundry so I can go to work tomorrow.

Re: [MBZ] OT: Genset

[Rory]

Sorry, I mostly gloss over most OT things but I have a weekness for
anything diesel powered.
I wish all my vehicles were diesel powered.
Now all I need to do is find a donor Mitsu Mighty Max diesel truck to
re-power my 88 Mitsu Montero.

On 1/28/06, Craig McCluskey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> On Fri, 27 Jan 2006 23:43:45 -0800 Rory <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > You guys need to check this guys gen. project out
> > http://www.f1-rocketboy.com/lister.html
>
> This was posted a couple of months ago, but it's nice to look at again.
>
>
> Craig
>
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>

Re: [MBZ] I guess everyone else is as busy as I was

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

mine torqued down nice and snug, no problems there.

OK Don wrote:


Cleaning, paints, and mounting 117.985 parts -- slowly but surely --

How did tightening the belt tensioner bolt into the timing case go?
Did you try to torque it?
Mine (2x) have felt like they were going to strip before I got up to
the torque spec.


On 1/29/06, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Replaced the fan clutch and belt tensioner on my SDL today.
--




--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D 243K, Rattled
'87 300SDL 290K, Limo Lite, or blue car
'81 240D 173K, Gramps, or yellow car
'78 450SLC 67K, brown car
'97 Ply Grand Voyager 78K Van Go

___
http://www.striplin.net
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net





--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] Wiper blades

[Curt Raymond]

I got Michelin blades for my Dodge pickup just the other day, today driving 
back from Maine it rained most of the way and I agree they're very nice.
   
  -Curt
   
  Date: Sat, 28 Jan 2006 07:40:21 -0700
From: "Bob Rentfro" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wiper blades
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
 reply-type=original

One of the numerous times I was over in Cal last year, I needed to get 
wiperblades for the VW. I went to the store where those three cartoon 
guys 
work and they had Michelin replacment blades. They are awesome. I don't 
believe they were crazy expensive. They wierd thing is, I never see 
them for 
sale anywhere anymore...

Bob Rentfro
'77 200D 148K
'01 VW Beetle TDI 61K
Litchfield Park, AZ



-
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] I guess everyone else is as busy as I was
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when I first read this just now I though marshall was switching to 
amsoil

Marshall Booth wrote:
> John Berryman wrote:
> 
>>On Sunday, January 29, 2006, at 05:19 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Replaced the fan clutch and belt tensioner on my SDL today.
>>>
>>
>>   No but yesterday I switched the 190D over to Amsoil sytnthetic tranny 
>>fluid and changed the filter. Swapped the PS fluid to Amsoil tranny 
>>fluid using the dilution method (pull the filter and change the fluid 
>>in the reservoir 4-5 times after driving a bit between changes) and 
>>changed the filter too.
>>  The fluid that came out of the PS was thick in comparison to the 
>>Amsoil stuff. It looked like it started out life as a clear fluid but 
>>was pretty dirty. Kinda grey with the usual aluminum /metallic swirl.
>>  There is definitely less effort required to turn the wheel after the 
>>changeover. I've had this happen numerous times when changing PS fluid 
>>even when I used plain old Dexron III w/Mercron rather than Mobil 1 or 
>>Amsoil. My wagon when I first got it used to bind a little when it was 
>>way cold, like 10-25 below 0  F. Changing to synthetic fluid cured 
>>that. I can't really tell any difference between the Amsoil and Mobil 1 
>>but I can tell you that both brands improve tranny feel as well as 
>>steering input. The Amsoil fluid is supposed to be good up to 
>>100,000mi. What's Mobil's claim for longevity on their synthetic tranny 
>>fluid?
> 
> 
> I agree that changing the PS or transmission fluid (even to NORMAL 
> stuff) usually makes things feel better. Mobil 1 made them feel even better!
> 
> Mercedes transmissions need to have the filter AND fluid changed every 
> 30 kmi or a little sooner - it's not the fluid life, but to get all the 
> particulate (from the clutches) out and to replace the filter.
> 
> Marshall

-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
  84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
  76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] End of month car list

[Luther Gulseth]

The GD's had the 617 in them until '89 and the 616 until '87.
http://4x4abc.com/G-Class/engines.html

On Sun, 29 Jan 2006 18:09:22 -0600, Alex Chamberlain  
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:



I was going by the year, figured the only 6-cyl diesel they made in
'91 was the dreaded 3.5.

On 1/29/06, redghost <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

I am thinking it is.  Does not look like the 3l 603 and more like the
bender engine I saw at the shop

On Saturday, January 28, 2006, at 11:42 PM, Alex Chamberlain wrote:

>> http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/129117173.html  --  300GD  $31k
>
> Rodbender?
>
> Alex Chamberlain
> '87 300D Turbo




--
Luther
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (230,xxx kmi)
'82 300CD (158,222 kmi)
'90 300E & '82 300D (parts or run?)

[MBZ] Radio Fuse?

[B Dike]

Benzers,
  
  The Becker radio on the 82 300CD went dead.  Antenna also doesn't  move.  
Replaced fuses in main box, radio still dead.  Found a  little fuse or resistor 
in the radio power supply line, measures at  about 1/2 to 1 ohm.  What is it, 
and what should its resistance  be?  What else should be checked?
  
  Thanks,
  
  


Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 240kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 202kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'

-
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Alex Chamberlain wrote:
>> http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/129117173.html  --  300GD  $31k
> 
> Rodbender?

It's a non-turbo engine. Very reliable engine.

Marshall

-- 
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

Re: [MBZ] I guess everyone else is as busy as I was

[John Berryman]

On Sunday, January 29, 2006, at 07:02 PM, Marshall Booth wrote:


I agree that changing the PS or transmission fluid (even to NORMAL
stuff) usually makes things feel better. Mobil 1 made them feel even 
better!


Mercedes transmissions need to have the filter AND fluid changed every
30 kmi or a little sooner - it's not the fluid life, but to get all the
particulate (from the clutches) out and to replace the filter.

Marshall



	I wouldn't dream of running the fluid at its estimated life-span of 
100,000 miles (unless analysis tells me its OK) but the filter will no 
doubt need attention before the fluid.
	Perhaps the Amsoil synthetic trans fluid is so good that it reduces 
wear to the point that the filter doesn't have much to filter. You 
never know.


BTW Marshall,
	Do you have any comparative data between Mobil 1 and Amsoil? I just 
became an Amsoil dealer, mostly for my convenience but also because I 
have used their products with analysis and have yet to send a sample of 
either Amsoil or Mobil 1 that comes back with bad results.
	 I have run synthetic oil from both for 22,000mi and both were close 
to the soot saturation limits but otherwise tested fine. I have no 
intention of adding bypass filters. With these results from the lab, I 
have the confidence to regularly change oil and filter at 15,000mi.


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am

Re: [MBZ] Parts replacement

[RELNGSON]

<>

I'm happy to report that my car does not have an engine driven fan and thus, 
no clutch. It also has no aux fans or an AC compressor clutch. Plenty of other 
stuff to crap out, of course.

RLE

Re: [MBZ] DIY Maybach repair

[Zeitgeist]

Heh heh heh, turns out it's not the ethnic groups Clay thought were
destroying the cars in the PnP's before he showed up, it's the
Romanians.  The ever pragmatic Romanians just use whatever tools
they've got available at the moment, so it's all been a big
misunderstanding.

On 1/29/06, Dave M. <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hey Kaleb, maybe you can hire this guy to do the body work on the cars
> that follow you home! Click link in first post:
>
> http://500ecstasy.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2823
>
> Sure wish I could understand whatever language they're speaking. BTW-
> I believe MSRP on that Maybach is somewhere in the mid six figures.

Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: "I drive in a persistent vegetative state"
'87 300TD intercooler (211k)
'84 300D (207k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (186K)

Re: [MBZ] End of month car list

[Alex Chamberlain]

I was going by the year, figured the only 6-cyl diesel they made in
'91 was the dreaded 3.5.

On 1/29/06, redghost <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I am thinking it is.  Does not look like the 3l 603 and more like the
> bender engine I saw at the shop
>
> On Saturday, January 28, 2006, at 11:42 PM, Alex Chamberlain wrote:
>
> >> http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/129117173.html  --  300GD  $31k
> >
> > Rodbender?
> >
> > Alex Chamberlain
> > '87 300D Turbo
> >
> > ___
> > http://www.striplin.net
> > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> Clay
> Seattle Bioburner
>
> 1972 220D - Gump
> 1995 E300D - Cleo
> 1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
> The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz
>
>
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>

Re: [MBZ] I guess everyone else is as busy as I was

[John Berryman]

On Sunday, January 29, 2006, at 06:15 PM, Bob Rentfro wrote:


By the wayare you all settled and back to the daily grind Johnny B?

Bob Rentfro



	For the time being yes. I'm Taking a break for a good long time but I 
am designing a house and garage that I will commence building in the 
Spring. We plan on selling it way in the future. Its basically an 
addition to our retirement portfolio.
	Otherwise, I've been tinkering on the "new to me" 190 D 2.5Euro, just 
trying to get everything working perfectly. The good news is that I 
have very little left to do.
	I'm also anxiously awaiting the arrival of a new PowerMac G5 Dual 
2.7GHz Tower and Apple Cinema Display. It will have the new Operating 
System OS X  v10.4.4 (Tiger). So I'm looking forward to learning as 
much as I can about it while I have this time allotted for "Taking a 
Break". I'm hoping to find a good, easy to use CAD program for the Mac, 
it would be helpful for my future construction projects.


Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am

Re: [MBZ] I guess everyone else is as busy as I was

[OK Don]

Cleaning, paints, and mounting 117.985 parts -- slowly but surely --

How did tightening the belt tensioner bolt into the timing case go?
Did you try to torque it?
Mine (2x) have felt like they were going to strip before I got up to
the torque spec.


On 1/29/06, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Replaced the fan clutch and belt tensioner on my SDL today.
> --


--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D 243K, Rattled
'87 300SDL 290K, Limo Lite, or blue car
'81 240D 173K, Gramps, or yellow car
'78 450SLC 67K, brown car
'97 Ply Grand Voyager 78K Van Go

Re: [MBZ] I guess everyone else is as busy as I was

[Marshall Booth]

John Berryman wrote:

On Sunday, January 29, 2006, at 05:19 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:


Replaced the fan clutch and belt tensioner on my SDL today.



	 No but yesterday I switched the 190D over to Amsoil sytnthetic tranny 
fluid and changed the filter. Swapped the PS fluid to Amsoil tranny 
fluid using the dilution method (pull the filter and change the fluid 
in the reservoir 4-5 times after driving a bit between changes) and 
changed the filter too.
	The fluid that came out of the PS was thick in comparison to the 
Amsoil stuff. It looked like it started out life as a clear fluid but 
was pretty dirty. Kinda grey with the usual aluminum /metallic swirl.
	There is definitely less effort required to turn the wheel after the 
changeover. I've had this happen numerous times when changing PS fluid 
even when I used plain old Dexron III w/Mercron rather than Mobil 1 or 
Amsoil. My wagon when I first got it used to bind a little when it was 
way cold, like 10-25 below 0  F. Changing to synthetic fluid cured 
that. I can't really tell any difference between the Amsoil and Mobil 1 
but I can tell you that both brands improve tranny feel as well as 
steering input. The Amsoil fluid is supposed to be good up to 
100,000mi. What's Mobil's claim for longevity on their synthetic tranny 
fluid?


I agree that changing the PS or transmission fluid (even to NORMAL 
stuff) usually makes things feel better. Mobil 1 made them feel even better!


Mercedes transmissions need to have the filter AND fluid changed every 
30 kmi or a little sooner - it's not the fluid life, but to get all the 
particulate (from the clutches) out and to replace the filter.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi