On Tuesday, Feb 25, 2003, at 20:10 US/Pacific, ranariv...@aol.com wrote:
Hey guys, my pressure plates just don't seem to hold up. Little black
strap
broke again. What are your recommendations? ACT? Clutchmasters?
I'm trying not to spend more than 250 bucks.
I've been running the ClutchMas
With the clutch disks, RPM's are the culprit. I've thrown the
friction material off a Neuspeed N2 clutch disk, but I tend to shift at
well over 7K RPM sometimes. I switched to the ClutchMasters Stage 3,
which has a Kevlar friction material on the disk, and no problems.
I've heard that the t
I made a "special" tool from a dinner fork. I removed the center tine
with a Dremel tool. You're left with a slot wide enough that it fits
around the post of the plugs. Just slide the fork under the head of
the fastener, and gently pry upwards. The curve in the fork allows you
to pop out th
Ouch. Sounds like the ECU might be dead. Check the big connector that
plugs into the ECU. Clean the contacts per Alex's instructions, and
make sure it's securely plugged into the ECU. It's also possible that
the DPR somehow developed a short to ground, which could give you a
zero voltage/cu
The first thing to do is dump the ECU fault codes. Depending on your
car's date of manufacture, there are two ways to do this. One requires
making a simple harness with a momentary switch, LED (and resistor to
drop the +12 to +5 vdc, unless you get a +12 LED from someplace like
Radio Shack),
You may be barking up the wrong tree, focusing on fuel being the
problem.
What are you guys running for spark plugs? I've been running NGK
BCP6ET's (NGK stock #4563, or Beck Arnley 176-5182) triple electrode
plugs, and they seem to really work better than the Beru Silverstones I
used before,
I'm fighting a transaxle oil leak that originates from where the speedo
cable goes into the case. I've replaced the seal between the retaining
plate and the case, but it still leaks intermittently. It seems to be
coming from around the cable housing, but it's hard to tell for sure.
Anyone ha
The gear selector is almost directly above the speedometer cable
opening. Is it possible that the selector shaft oil seal is leaking
and thus giving the appearance of a leak from the speedometer cable
opening?
Nope, checked that. Thanks, though, it would be easy to miss...
Actually I just ha
Euro Sport is the only tuner that I know of that has a cold air intake
for Motronic 16V's.
http://www.eurosportacc.com/
You may get the same results with a fully modified factory air box.
There's really not much room to run any hoses to a well placed scoop,
unless you're willing to give up on
If you price the individual components of really high quality, high
reliability, high current cables, you'll see that they ain't cheap to
make. High strand count (for flexibility) 4, 2, 0 or larger gauge
cable with the proper insulation can run 5-10 bucks or more, a FOOT.
Then there's the var
Well, I just discovered that the big assed AC/PS/WP/Alternator bracket
on my '92 has cracked. I know it happened within the last month or so,
since I've been under the car regularly for other reasons. After all
the problems that seem to stem from that bracket, I want to go to the
1.8 16V brac
On Monday, Sep 29, 2003, at 20:46 US/Pacific, Galen Bergthold wrote:
The reason they stop is that the cover itself has little "bumps" at
each bolt hole, which prevents you from over-compressing the gasket.
But the gasket should squeeze out a little bit.
Maybe there are different versions of
By open, I assume you mean the state it's in when the throttle is wide
open? If it was in that state, your gas mileage would suck big time,
and the mid range and low end would be really flat and sluggish.
On Friday, Oct 17, 2003, at 21:17 US/Pacific, John Lagnese wrote:
What would happen if t
This came in off the VR6 engine list. Could be a killer deal...
Begin forwarded message:
From: "dukkey"
Date: November 13, 2003 22:38:06 PST
To: v...@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [vr6] FS Jetta 16v 88 golf vr6
I am moving out of state and must sell my toys. I have a 90 jetta gl
w/2.0 16v and an
Still here, Chad. Do I need to update the DNS servers at a2-16v.com?
--Holland
h...@pacbell.net
On Mar 20, 2006, at 10:22 AM, Chad Rebuck wrote:
The list is still around but it only gets an email or so each
month. I wonder how many people of the 100 or so signed up
actually see the email
Actually, there were two types of rear calipers used on A2's. They
changed to the "new style" calipers sometime in 1988, VIN dependent.
The primary
difference between the two is the parking brake mechanism. Both
types of calipers are cast steel. The aluminum A4 type rear calipers
are a
Mark,
I recently put Wilwoods on the front of my GTI. I used 4 piston
Forged Billet Superlight calipers, P/N 120-8464-R & -L,
with adapter brackets I got from Precision Brake in Ashland, OR.
They're on 12.19" ULP drilled & slotted 2 piece rotors,
and I'm currently running Polymatrix BP-10 pa
With the 12.19" rotors I have, 16" wheels fit (at least BBS RC's)
without any problem.
--Holland
h...@pacbell.net
-Les
-Original Message-
From: a2-16v-list-boun...@mail.a2-16v.com
[mailto:a2-16v-list-boun...@mail.a2-16v.com]On Behalf Of Mark Stanton
Sent: Wednesday, Mar
Whoa, now! Tubular a-arms, individual TB's, and, DRY SUMP?!?! Holy
ALMS, what the hornk are you building,
something to take on the 24 hours of the 'Ring?
--Holland
h...@pacbell.net
On Mar 23, 2006, at 7:50 PM, Josh wrote:
some things I have going on..
oh, and I might be purchasing a hous
Hey Les,
Yeah, it's been a little slow on the old list lately. How much power
do you anticipate putting
down with the new motor? If you're going with the stock 134 bhp, or
a little more (no more than
around 150-160 bhp), I'd start with a 2Y, which will give you the
larger input shaft (requ
Yep, Ricky is correct. The CIS-E injectors have M12x1.5 threads, and
the Motronic injectors are M10x1 threads.
The visible difference is the CIS-E lines are flexible and have a
braided stainless jacket, and the Motronic lines
are a combination of black hard lines and rubber fuel line. I
*t
On Oct 9, 2006, at 10:48 PM, Chad Rebuck wrote:
I am almost motivated enough to install my megasquirt fuel injection
Megasquirt, eh? Well that brings up a whole bunch of questions:
What are you going to use for injectors?
Fuel rail? BBM or 034EFI?
Fuel pump?
FPR?
What about ignition, are yo
On Oct 10, 2006, at 12:12 PM, DocWyte wrote:
No timing belt cover?! How does that:
a: Affect emissions
b: Affect the way the car runs
c: Affect the way the car sounds
d: Affect anything about the car
Well, it would seem that as part of the Federal funding that S.J.P.D.
received
to enforce
You don't say, but I assume you're talking about a 9A 2.0l 16V? If
so, it sounds like you may have
the intake to exhaust cam index screwed up. Moving the timing belt
up and back a tooth wouldn't
help that scenario. To check, pull the valve cover (I know that's a
pain because the intake has
On Oct 23, 2006, at 2:41 AM, stevenargue...@optonline.net wrote:
Yeah I thought of that. It was exact, both marks facing each other.
But what if the TT mark is off. I'll pull the
cover and check anyway. How do you pull the retaining caps?
There's two studs with nuts per cap. Just loosen th
What are you running for ignition, CIS-E or Motronic? Assuming it's
CIS-E, you need to check to see if the
RPM dependent ignition advance is working, and then the vacuum
advance, in that order. This can also determine if
there's a problem with the knock sensors or their control unit.
Follo
The Digi air filter is the same as the Motronic filter, if that
helps. The CIS-E filter is different.
Or to put it another way, yes the Digi top half should work as a
filter housing. What are you
doing for air flow metering, using the mechanical MAF from the
Digifant system, converting
to
Chad,
Looking good, dude! Got a few questions for ya: Why the Passat
slush box T.B.? Does it have a "real" TPS, or something?
What kind of fuel pressure are you running? Are you running just the
factory main and transfer pumps? You say the 42 lb.
injectors are over 2x to big. How are you
O2 sensor? Have you checked the DPR current? Do the symptoms change
as the engine warms up?
Check the idle micro switch on the throttle body. It should open as
soon as you crack the throttle slightly.
Those are the first things that come to mind. Lemme know how it goes...
--Holland
h...@p
On Dec 26, 2006, at 4:39 PM, Steven Arguello wrote:
Cold Running Enrichment, Cold Acceleration Enrichment? Since my
problem
gets better as it warms up the problem my guess it has to be DPR
related. Right?
I thought DPR amperage was the lower the richer
Nope. Other way around. More curre
Since the dizzy, rotor and cap are new,I have to check and fix
injectors
ignition timing
DPR setting
spark plugs
cables
Not sure what order.
I'd start with the injectors first - I purchased a used, balanced
set from Marren Motorsports for the racecar. While you probably
don't need th
Matt,
The wire wheel method will work ok, but will take forever. I'd first
try a little chemical persuasion.
Go to your local home center (Home Depot, Lowes, yadda yadda) and hit
the paint department.
Look for products by Jasco. They make various types of chemical
strippers, which really
Ah, success! Nice wheel well...
What spring rate are you running on the front Ground Controls? From
the size of the spring wire, I'd say they're
up in the 500 in/lb range, right? And is that an old Revolution
wheel I see?
--Holland
h...@pacbell.net
On Apr 4, 2007, at 7:14 PM, Matthew Yi
When you say "OEM lighter calipers", do you mean aluminum 1J0 615
423/424 D calipers from a Mk 4?
If so, are they truly a bolt on, or do they require adapter brackets?
--Holland
h...@pacbell.net
On Apr 23, 2007, at 6:12 PM, Galen Bergthold wrote:
I recently put a set of Akebono pads on the
ent to the
caliper. The e-brake cable has to be re-routed slightly as the
lever that the cable attaches to is on the side of the caliper
rather than the bottom. Not a problem as the existing cable should
have enough length.
GBergthold
From: Holland Phillips
To: "Galen Bergthold&qu
24lbs. per corner? Was that all wheel and tire, or are there some
titanium rotors, hubs, or wheel bolts/lugs/nuts in the mix?
I suppose if the stock R32 wheels are REALLY heavy, along with the
stock tires, and you went to a set of Volk's with the
lightest tire you could find, you might dump 24
That can't be with stock motor and drive train, can it? Road&Track
has the R32 running 14.1/99.2. The
rule of thumb is 100lbs/tenth or 10hp/tenth. So, 200lbs = .2 (maybe
a little more, since a lot of it was unsprung),
then you must have tweaked the motor to the tune of +70-80hp. Lemme
gue
Chad,
The speedometer is driven directly by the speedo cable regardless of
whether the car has
cruise control, or not. The speedo cable drives the speed sensor
mechanically, along with the
speedometer itself. The speed sensor converts the mechanical
rotation of the speedo cable to
a voltag
o the back of the speedo.
Ricky
- Original Message -
From: "Holland Phillips"
To: "Chad Rebuck"
Cc: "a2-16v"
Sent: Friday, May 04, 2007 7:41 PM
Subject: Re: [a2-16v-list] speedometer, speed sensor - failure?
> Chad,
> The speedometer is driven dir
Chad,
Without knowing what your suspension setup is (both hardware and
geometry), including wheel width and offset,
I'll give you a couple of "rules of thumb". With front wheel drive,
you generally want a 5 psi spread front to rear (+5
psi in the front). If possible, replace the air in the t
Something like this?
Product Detail
A2 Front Motor Mount Bracket
Fits all A2 with Hydro front mount. Also used to convert 85-89 non-
hydro front mount(That is obsolete)to Hydro style.
Part Number:191199273C
Category: OEM(1)-Engine/Clu
Um, I mean go here...
http://www.parts4vws.com/catalog/product_detail.asp?PartNumber=191199273C
__
Holland J. Phillips
Industrial Business Technologies
holl...@ibtech.us
(714) 442-2496 ext. 13
Yup, still here. Good to hear from ya!
___
Holland J. Phillips
h...@pacbell.net
(408) 923-8319
San Jose, CA
On Feb 17, 2009, at 2:03 PM, Chad Rebuck wrote:
The mail server has been disconnected for the last few months and I
assume nobody has missed it :)
I haven't driven my turbo
Zero. Some or all the intakes will be bent.
___
Holland J. Phillips
h...@pacbell.net
(408) 923-8319
San Jose, CA
On Feb 20, 2009, at 6:01 PM, Steven Arguello wrote:
PS What are the chances I didn't bend any valves?
Either that or possibly mismatched ECU and knock sensor control unit.
You need to make sure
that the ECU part number/code and the K/S/C/U part number are from the
exact same year/engine code
and not one or the other from an A/T car, or different year/engine
code (PF/9A etc.).
Just a though
s swapped all kinds
of boxes around before without any change. The best fix that me and
my buds found is to ditch that CIS-E crap and go Megasquirt b/c CIS-
E is just plain junk. When I get my Megasquirt system running on my
2.0, I'll smoke your car on the street"
Sorry - I digres
2.0 since the pistons are larger.
___
Holland J. Phillips
h...@pacbell.net
(408) 923-8319
San Jose, CA
On Apr 7, 2009, at 9:14 AM, Steven Arguello wrote:
Which head gasket set should I get 1.8 or 2.0?
Steve
___
a2-16v-list mailing list
a2-
Steve,
The ECU p/n 811 906 264F is for engine code "PL".
I was unable to find the application for the knock sensor, 811 907 397E.
It is NOT for engine code "PL", or "9A", nor anything from '89 through
'98.
Try calling your local dealer parts dept. and asking them to look up the
application for
Thanks Matthew. That tells me what I need to know. I was planning on removing
the hood anyway, since it gives you all the access you
need and more, and I do have AC. I am going to remove the AC pump from the
engine, and see if I can get away without breaching the
system, mainly since I would h
Hilarious as usual Matt
On Feb 18, 2013 2:49 PM, "Matthew Yip" wrote:
> No one seems to understand the mechanics of the power-to-weight ratio but
> that's half the fun. I've been at track events with my 123hp 1.8l 16v and
> have been known to abuse E36 M3s and even the occasional C5 Corvette
Hilarious as usual Matt ...
On Feb 18, 2013 2:49 PM, "Matthew Yip" wrote:
> No one seems to understand the mechanics of the power-to-weight ratio but
> that's half the fun. I've been at track events with my 123hp 1.8l 16v and
> have been known to abuse E36 M3s and even the occasional C5 Corvette
Steve,
When I get my computer back up I'll see if ETKA is still there and check
for you. Brake lines? We're talking your life!
~Holland
On Mar 8, 2013 3:57 PM, "Steven Arguello" wrote:
> I searched my mailbox and no luck, Holland especially if you have it,
> that'd be great... I found bosch pa
taking the time to run them
> nice & neat. I like to get the coated brake lines so they will last longer.
>
> --- On Fri, 3/8/13, Holland Phillips wrote:
>
> > From: Holland Phillips
> > Subject: Re: [a2-16v-list] CIS-e injector part number?
> > To: "Volkswa
As I recall, the O2 sensor points at about 4 o'clock when viewed from the
rear, or 8 'oclock if viewed from the front. And just to be clear, the O2
is before the cat.
~Holland
On Jun 27, 2014 2:06 PM, "Steven Arguello" wrote:
> The drawings in the Bentley are ambiguous, and I have no reference
Hi guys,
I feel I've know some of you for over ten years. For, by far, most of that
time, I was working as an Engineer, with no financial worries.
Unfortunately, largely due to circumstances beyond my control, I find
myself homeless, broke, and in poor health. I have been living in the
streets o
I learned when I was 2 years old on my Grandfather's old. Ford farm
tractor. :-)
~Holland
On Aug 29, 2014 6:39 AM, "Larry Velez" wrote:
> I am sure you all are reading in the various car rags how Porsche seems to
> be abandoning the manual gear box with the latest GT3. Ferrari only sold
> 1% of
I agree with Les on the Missing Links shift kit. I went to the guys house
in Santa Clara to pick mine up. Got some Teflon and HDP bushings for other
spots in the linkage as well.
~Holland
On Aug 29, 2014 9:03 AM, "Les Noriel" wrote:
> I learned to drive a stick shift on a 1972 VW Squareback. T
Check out www.por15.com. I've used this stuff, and it really sticks to
rusty surfaces, and provides a very tough coating.
~Holland
On Sep 3, 2014 9:09 AM, "Larry Velez" wrote:
> Hi 16vers,
>
> My GTI spent most of its life in the northeast, now she sleeps in the
> SouthEast (which might have
The other day, I saw what I think was a Mk6 R32. Had large twin center
exhaust. Did VW make/import a Mk6 R32?
~Holland
On Sep 3, 2014 1:33 PM, "Walz, Jesse" wrote:
> I think VW is trying to appeal to the enthusiast. The new golf R will
> make just under 300 HP and VW is hinting at a factory 4
In San Diego, aluminum cans go for $1.79/lb. Not sure if cast al would be
the same.
~Holland
On Sep 4, 2014 6:24 AM, "Chad Rebuck" wrote:
> I have been cleaning stuff from my garage lately and decided to get rid of
> the two 020 transmission cases that have been on the shelf for years. All
> t
The U.S. Marine Corps used WD-40
as floor polish.
On Oct 27, 2014 7:11 AM, "Larry Velez" wrote:
> As our cars age, we will be using more and more chemicals to treat,
> repair and prevent.
>
> Ran across this tidbit this morning:
>
> "In the 1950's Dr. Norm Larson started a company call Rocket Ch
I second Matthew's praises of POR-15.
I used it pre emptevily on the battery tray, as well as other places of my
'92 GTI 16V. The stuff gets hard as nails once it cures. A trick to
accelerate the cure rate of POR-15 is to mist the coated area with water.
Due to this fact, it is critical to carefu
In CA, all we've had for like 35 years is 92. I always have used Chevron. I
know that Sunoco has/had 93, but Sunoco doesn't exist on the west coast.
With the stock CR of 10:1, there's not much to be gained by using over 92
anyway. I have tried using octane boosters, and am pretty sure any
perceived
In a word, yes.
~Holland
On Jan 8, 2015 11:01 AM, "Larry Velez" wrote:
> So does this mean I should be looking around for a source of
> 'Ethanol-free' gasoline for my 91 GTI 16V?
>
> I am still dealing with the bad side effects of gas going bad from
> sitting. Want to avoid that happening agai
As usual Matthew, we seem to think alike. I've been using STA-BIL for ever.
I have no idea how much trouble it has saved me from, but for the cost,
it's worth every penny!
~Holland
On Jan 8, 2015 11:17 AM, "Matthew Yip" wrote:
> Doh - forgot to include the link but you can find this stuff at you
Bondhaus. Unless you want to go Snap-On...
~Holland
On Feb 19, 2015 9:04 AM, "Larry Velez" wrote:
> Hi 16vers,
>
> What brand Hex bit sets do you guys like that don't strip things and do a
> good job? Need to get a good set before I strip something..
>
> What other bit sets do you find handy t
em as you bust 'em. But that doesn't always mean much after you've trashed
a critical fastener at the 11th hour before a race. With tools, possibly
more than with other things in life, you get what you pay for.
~Holland
On Feb 19, 2015 9:08 AM, "Holland Phillips"
wrote:
Okay Chad, what exactly would you like to argue about?😀
~Holland
On Mar 4, 2015 11:47 AM, "Chad Rebuck" wrote:
> Usually after a few hours of rain I would often find water pooled in the
> trunk of my Jetta. I took the carpet out many years ago so this wasn't a
> big deal. I would just put a to
in a local salvage yard and I collected complete door and rear
> hatch seals. But I'm still in search of rear side window seals.
>
>
> The 16V seems a bit neglected of late as I've been distracted with the
> other cars in my garage so Ive not been able to spend much time on the
Oh, and Les, where did you find a 1997 Rabbit?
~Holland
On Mar 8, 2015 6:54 PM, "Holland Phillips"
wrote:
> There is a company www.steelrubber.com which may be able to make rubber
> seals for the Mk2 VW's upon request. Their website only lists seals for
> American i
That's what I used to do. At some point, I acquired an assortment of the
various types of individual contacts for the electrical connectors on my
'92. I had the proper extraction tools for the various types as well. The
connectors which VW used on the Mk1& 2 cars were really problematic. With
the a
It's possible that the connection to the DPR has finally degraded to the
point where wiggling it no longer affects its operation.
At one point when I was having charging issues, I ended up swapping the
regulator for a new one which didn't solve the problem, so I swapped it
again for a old spare I h
Ok, here's what's SUPPOSED to happen: When you turn the key on, the bulb in
the dash should light. When you turn the key to start, everything goes
dark. Once you release the key and the engine is running, the alternator
bulb should remain out if it is charging normally. If the bulb illuminates,
the
I have had a plethora of tp gauges over the years. Both analog and digital.
All cost $50 or less. The most recent was a programmable one from the Tire
Rack for under $20. It was my favorite. More accurate than the analog types
(+- .5psi), more compact, had a built in LED light, which was really han
recommendations for Milton analog
> gauges ($10-20 on Amazon)
>
>
>
> I think I will get one of these Milton analog ones and also a digital one
> to look at the seamingly accurate LCD numbers… until it dies of course.
>
>
>
> -Larry
>
>
>
> *From:* mk2-16v@go
I had what, back in the day, was called a "cracked" copy of ETKA. It only
ran on Windows XP, and required changing a couple of system files in
Windows in order for it to run. I found it to be a invaluable tool for
looking up part numbers, viewing exploded assembly drawings, and checking
out VW mode
Actually Les, you can run an old version of ETKA on your MacBook. Assuming
that is, it's a newer version with a Intel processor. You create a bootable
partition on the hard drive/SSD, install Windows XP, over write the
appropriate DLL files, and install a unlocked copy of ETKA. I did this on
my fir
The "smoke" itself is unlikely to damage any components. The only risk is
direct contact with plastics. And that would require somewhat lengthy
contact. The possible effect would be causing the plastic to become brittle
and fracturing.
Overall, I don't see much risk. The problem with using dry ice
Oops, I meant to say that the direct contact with the dry ice itself may
potentially be harmful to plastic components.
~Holland
On Jun 8, 2015 6:45 AM, "Larry Velez" wrote:
> I am working on a DIY vacuum leak smoke tester.
>
> My theory is to use dry ice as the smoke, like this:
> *https://www
Oh, man! I was just thinking about that the other day. Here around San
Diego, it seems that just about every male from 8 to 50 wears their drawers
down around their knees. I don't get it!!?? Especially the ones that are
middle aged...😨
~Holland
On Jun 21, 2015 8:39 AM, "Jack Simon" wrote:
> --
>
Personally, I always went with either Bosch or Milwaukee. I did a lot of
research prior to making purchases. I was always pleased with the
performance and reliability of either brand.
~Holland
On Aug 12, 2015 8:31 AM, "Larry Velez" wrote:
> While I am at it, what brands/models do you guys use/l
My '92 had to be getting close to the end of production, at least for US
vehicles produced in Mexico. I would imagine that there is a way to do a
VIN search, at least for cars originally sold in the US. At least we know
the last Mk2 in the US has to be a '92, since all '93 forward are Mk3's.
And as
Hmm, does anyone know if R12 has been completely banned in the US? The last
time I had the AC on my '92 here in California, R12 was still available,
but it was something like $200+/pound. Fortunately, I had only a tiny leak
in the system, and the machine that they used to evacuate the system
actual
The reasoning behind the availability of reproduction parts for classic
American cars is, of course, money. An original '69 COPO Camaro can sell at
auction for well into the six figures. You can build a virtually brand new
one from repro parts (there is a company that sells complete brand new '69
C
I just read an article regarding this issue. The issue was first uncovered
by a small laboratory in Virginia. They were conducting some random testing
unrelated to the EPA. At first they thought there had to have been some
flaw in their testing. They retested the vehicles in question two more
times
Two words - shop around. I've had it go both ways. I used to have a place I
always used for mounting/balancing and alignment, because they had the
latest top of the line equipment, and were racers. Sometimes they had tires
I wanted for less than The Rack, but usually The Rack had the better price.
Les,
If I recall correctly, you can remove the plastic trim from the inside of
the hatch, which will allow you access to the lock mechanism. I think you
need the star type Allen tool to work with the fasteners. I may be wrong
here, since its been a while since I've messed with that portion of the
c
I forgot to mention that I used a rare and difficult to find size of tire -
215/40-16.
I'm not sure anyone is even making that size anymore.
~Holland
On Nov 9, 2015 16:49, "Les Noriel" wrote:
> From my experience, Tire Rack always had lower prices on the tires than my
> local shop. What had to b
Cummudgwho?
~Holland
On Nov 9, 2015 20:44, "'Matthew Yip' via MK2-16v"
wrote:
> Ironically I've been tempted by but have never used Tire Rack. My local
> tyre shop supports all sorts of local car clubs which is a rarity these
> days especially with the big name tyre chains taking over the market
As I recall, there should be two copper washers that go on each side of the
banjo fitting, one between the fitting and the pump, the other between the
head of the bolt and the fitting. Always use new copper washers, and be
careful to not over tighten the bolt. You just want to slightly compress
the
I don't recall ever seeing anything regarding EV-GZ or KR engine
designations. The 2 liter 16 valve Mk 2 engines are designated 9A. The 1.8
16V designation escapes me at the moment. But it's 5:45am, so my brain is
not fully in gear yet. I used to study ETKA regularly, and those engine
designations
What is the designation for the European tall block/long connecting rod
2liter? Damn I wish I still had my computer with ETKA on it.
~Holland
On Nov 17, 2015 06:16, "Jack Simon" wrote:
> The KR is/was the European 1.8 version.
>
> On 17 Nov 2015, at 08:53, Holland Phillips
r#Brake_horsepower>) @ 6,000rpm;
> 180 newton metres <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Newton_metre> (133 lbf·ft
> <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pound-foot_(torque)>) @ 4,800 rpm
> applicationsSEAT Ibiza Mk2 GTi16V. (later Cupra)
> <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SEAT_Ibi
ke_horsepower>) @ 6,000rpm;
> 180 newton metres <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Newton_metre> (133 lbf·ft
> <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pound-foot_(torque)>) @ 4,800 rpm
> applicationsSEAT Ibiza Mk2 GTi16V. (later Cupra)
> <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SEAT_Ibiza#6K
That would do it! There is a large cult following of early water cooled
VW's in the UK.
~Holland
On Nov 17, 2015 08:48, "Jack Simon" wrote:
> Not a problem if you were a U.S.Govt. employee living in England in the
> early 90s!! 8>{o)
>
> On 17 Nov 2015, at
Just my 10 cents: For most suspension, bracketry, clutch/flywheel, etc.
purposes, a cheap torque wrench of questionable accuracy is probably okay.
But for torqueing aluminum heads to, in particular, iron blocks, I
personally prefer a tool with more assured accuracy. I had four SW wrenches
which at
nd
On Nov 27, 2015 12:50, "Chad Rebuck" wrote:
> I've checked the hf wrenches against my other few brands and also have
> used weights and my vice to test them. Always seem to be within a couple
> percent of the weight I hang off them when testing.
> On Nov 27, 2015 3:46
White vinegar and newspaper...
You'll be amazed.
~Holland
On Nov 30, 2015 07:04, "Larry Velez" wrote:
> A few days ago I turned on NPR and ‘Car Talk’ reruns were on. I don’t
> usually listen to the show because it is mostly bad jokes and little useful
> info but this day as I turned on the radi
t any auto
parts store, and possibly Walmart.
~Holland
On Nov 30, 2015 07:07, "Holland Phillips" wrote:
> White vinegar and newspaper...
> You'll be amazed.
>
> ~Holland
> On Nov 30, 2015 07:04, "Larry Velez" wrote:
>
>> A few days ago I turned on NP
in the 60s & 70s!! Her other
> favorite was "Glass Wax"!!
>
> Once cleaned, a coating of Rain-X anti-fog (in a black bottle) would
> probably help as well. I used to use it on a large mirror in the
> bathroom/shower room and didn't have a problem with fogging. Oddly
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