Re: [h-cost] Query on sewing machines
I, too, am sorry to hear your news. I have a Bernina and would never buy anything else. You can get a low end Bernina. If it is new, and you buy from a dealer, it should include classes on how to use the features. BTW, Bernina makes the best buttonholes, if that is important to you. On most machines, the buttonhole zigzags down one side and back up the other, meaning the second side is stitching in reverse. The zigzag never looks as good when done in reverse. The Bernina back straight stitches up the second side, then comes down with the zigzag. I don't think an industrial machine is necessary unless you do lots and lots of sewing, like you are a full-time seamster. Ann Wass In a message dated 10/7/2009 1:56:45 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, quix...@toysmakeuspowerful.com writes: So, the short story is that I'm getting a divorce, and her sewing machines are not going to be accessible to me anymore (or her sewing skills for that matter). So, I am looking at buying a machine, and would like some opinions on what I should get. Currently, my wife has a nice Bernina Artista 180e, which does about everything. Basically, I haven't done anything more than be an assistant for a long time, so I'm not sure how much of the extra feature set I'm actually going to need. A couple of options I see: 1) Go to walmart, buy something like the Brother CE-5000PRW, which has every basic thing I think I'd need, and appears to do automatic buttonholes. a) pros - cheap enough to buy another if it has problems b) cons - not as expandable with features, no local repair 2) Buy a Bernina a) pros - local repair, an attachment exists for everything b) cons - costly My areas of interest change often, so I can't say I'll be only doing one period of clothing. One thing the Bernina has is a piping foot to actually make piping out of whatever fabric. I don't see such a beasty on the Brother, but I just am not sure I am well enough informed on that. Anyway, I'd appreciate any advice everyone has, and please forgive me if I'm acting too much like a newb... because I am one :) -- Don Quixote -- Takeda Kiyoteru -- quix...@toysmakeuspowerful.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Opinions on this book
I've reported here before, but The Mode in Costume is what got me started, so I keep it on my shelf for sentimental reasons.?So to answer the original question,?I would keep Yarwood if I already had it, unless room is really, really an issue.? But I probably wouldn't buy it if I didn't already have it. Ann Wass -Original Message- From: R Lloyd Mitchell rmitch...@staff.washjeff.edu To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Thu, Oct 1, 2009 10:35 am Subject: Re: [h-cost] Opinions on this book The Wilcox book along with Yarwood and one or two others of the 50's/60's were the very images that sent me to the research point of re-discovering the wealth of period detail in paintings and portraits...sort of like getting kicked off the diving board.It was kind of fun taking their drawings and searching for the original pieces they were interpreting. Kathleen -Original Message- From: monica spence monicaspe...@optonline.net Sent 10/1/2009 10:11:55 AM To: 'Historical Costume' h-cost...@indra.com Subject: Re: [h-cost] Opinions on this bookI bought it a long time ago-- back in the late 70s/ 80s when there was very little published about costume/clothing. I have used it to check definitions a few times. I would not throw it-- sell it on eBay. Monica Monica E. Spence MA, MA, BA Lead Instructor, Fashion Department Art Institute of New York City -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of K?the Barrows Sent: Thursday, October 01, 2009 12:06 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Opinions on this book I have a copy of The Encyclopedia of World Costume, by Doreen Yarwood. Any opinions on this one? Is it worth saving or should I toss it? I saw a copy once, and didn't buy it, no regrets. I didn't like it. -- Carolyn Kayta Barrows -- ?The future is already here, it is just unevenly distributed.? -Willi am Gibson -- ___ h-costume mailing list h-cost...@mail.indra.comhttp://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-cost...@mail.indra.comhttp://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume= ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] PhD programs in costume history
In a message dated 8/16/2009 8:26:56 PM Eastern Daylight Time, f...@lavoltapress.com writes: Of course, but my point is, do they teach you about _antique_ silk processing in such programs? My sister-in-law certainly got no historical education--they gave her practical information that would enable her to get a good job in a modern factory. I certainly think, since many topics are fascinating, that the student has to made a decision as to whether they are going to graduate school strictly because they enjoy learning, or because they need the degree for a job after graduation; and that the courses they take should be chosen with that goal in mind. I can't speak for all programs. We did not, unfortunately, get as much hands-on textile conservation type training as we would have liked at Maryland. We expressed our concerns, and I think the faculty was preparing to include more, when our program was closed down. As for the other knowledge needed, that is where the support areas come in. One has all the departments on campus to choose from and, in our case, we could even take courses at other institutions in the Washington, DC, area. One graduate student I know at Cornell studied machine-made lace in the late 19th century for her master's and is now studying Renaissance era lace for her Ph.D. Ann Wass ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] PhD programs in costume history
I believe Ohio State still has a viable program. My school, the University of Maryland, closed theirs down back in 1991 (boo, hiss!) I didn't get my Ph.D. until I was 41, but my husband was in the Navy, and I followed him around and worked retail for a few years after my master ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Fwd: PhD programs in costume history
I don't know what has gotten into this computer lately--I often find a message going off before I'm ready. So, to continue: In a message dated 8/16/2009 3:59:44 PM Eastern Daylight Time, AnnBWass writes: I believe Ohio State still has a viable program. My school, the University of Maryland, closed theirs down back in 1991 (boo, hiss!) I didn't get my Ph.D. until I was 41, but my husband was in the Navy, and I followed him around and worked retail for a few years after my master's. Plan was that I would teach after he retired with 20 years, but it didn't work that way. I tried some adjunct positions, more retail, and theatrical costuming (just grunt work--stitching) before falling into the museum position that I have now. I love it, although I don't get to work with costume on a daily basis--we have no collection, and no room for one if we wanted it. But I make up for it in other ways--the occasional special exhibit, some costumed interpretation, presentations both to the public and in scholarly venues, and now writing a book. Probably the biggest challenge will be figuring how you and your husband can both persue your studies if you can't do them in contiguous venues. I have to say, though, that I don't think waiting was the worst thing that happened to me. I got lots of real world experience in a variety of different places that I think has stood me in good stead. Ann Wass ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] PhD programs in costume history
Cornell also has a program. Ann Wass ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] PhD programs in costume history
In a message dated 8/16/2009 4:40:21 PM Eastern Daylight Time, e...@huskers.unl.edu writes: Cornell's on my husband's list of possible schools! Well, that is copacetic. Charlotte Jarousek teaches there. And Cornell has the advantage, for one in historic costume, of also having a strong textile science curriculum (or at least they did a few years ago). That was one of the strengths of the U. of Maryland program when it existed. Ann Wass ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] PhD programs in costume history
I know there are people who disagree, but, just as I think organic chemistry is necessary for pre-med students (and not just a flunk-out course, as I once heard someone describe it), I think a knowledge of textile chemistry is a real asset, if not an outright necessity, for students of historic costume. A knowledge of fibers, yarns, fabrics, dyes, and other finishes can only enhance your knowlege. Of course, the humanities are important, too. At Maryland, our core curriculum included textile science, textile economics, and (groan) statistics, and we chose two supporting areas. After a false start in theater (the dept. had just hired an new faculty member who I found wanting, and in fact she didn't stay past her three-year contract), I went with history and American studies. However, keep in mind that my undergraduate and master's degrees were both in home economics, so chemistry was always a given. But Monica, your literature program sounds like great fun. Ann Wass ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Fabric suggestions - Marie Antoinette 1786 portrait
Yes, that is the infamous chemise gown and would have been made of lightweight linen or cotton--supposed Marie Antoinette adopted the style worn by the Creoles in the hot and steamy Caribbean.? It is possible that, during the time, an even more sheer linen or cotton was used for the ruffles, although I had always thought the sleeve ruffle was a continuation of the sleeve made by drawing it up.? There is a pattern for an extant English chemise dress in Cut of Women's Clothes. ? Ann Wass -Original Message- From: otsisto otsi...@socket.net To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Thu, Aug 13, 2009 4:40 am Subject: Re: [h-cost] Fabric suggestions - Marie Antoinette 1786 portrait You are looking at possibly an ecru silk chiffon lined with white linen or cotton. The shoulder region is not a different material from the sleeve, it is the two layers only flat. The edges of the ruffles seem to have either bia tape, ribbon or possibly embroidered edge. http://www.lostcoasthistpatterns.com/chdrbyrohofa.html http://www.jennylafleur.com/diary/georgian07/chemise07.jpg http://www.jennylafleur.com/diary/georgian07/chemise05.jpg http://www.jennylafleur.com/diary/georgian07/chemise03.jpg This one is in cotton http://www3.fitnyc.edu/museum/Arbitersofstyle/chemise.dresses.htm Someone made it http://wearing-history.com/images/chemisedress.jpg De -Original Message- Hello, My mad scramble to get myself ready for Costume College left me with a new goal, but I'm very uncertain about fabric. I want to make this gown: http://www.ladyreading.net/marieantoinette/big/marie14a.jpg I know that there are other copies of this image on the web, but this was the first one I found just now. What fabric would you use for this? It is certainly semi-sheer, more so than voile. Silk chiffon would be too soft, silk organza possibly too stiff? I just can't decide. Laurie T. Phoenix ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Fabric Stores Crystal City? DC?
In a message dated 8/11/2009 7:34:23 PM Eastern Daylight Time, cinbar...@gmail.com writes: Rockville. Rockville is the closest to a Metro, but they just moved and I think they are farther away. There is probably a bus from the Metro, though. For any location, you can go on the Metro site, _www.wmata.com_ (http://www.wmata.com) , and use the trip finder to tell you how to get where you want--there is a train-only option which gives you walking distance and directions, and a train/bus option. Ann Wass ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What period is this Butterick from?
I agree, 30's, raglan sleeve era and those nip tucks under the boobage. But eally now, velvet? Sigh. This would hang so much better with bias cut bridal ilk. Well, there are velvets and velvets--some are pretty slinky. I have a dress that belonged to my husband's grandmother, very similar to this one, in maroon velvet, but the dress itself has the sleeves (raglan, I think, but not this exaggerated), and there is a gold flower at the neckline. Ann Wass -Original Message- From: Melody Watts celticredhead2...@yahoo.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Wed, Aug 5, 2009 4:29 am Subject: Re: [h-cost] What period is this Butterick from? so what do we do now ,Brain'? Same thing we do everyday day Pinkie, plot to take over the world i? elody --- On Tue, 8/4/09, Chiara Francesca chiara.france...@gmail.com wrote: rom: Chiara Francesca chiara.france...@gmail.com ubject: Re: [h-cost] What period is this Butterick from? o: 'Historical Costume' h-cost...@indra.com ate: Tuesday, August 4, 2009, 10:06 PM agree, 30's, raglan sleeve era and those nip tucks under the boobage. But eally now, velvet? Sigh. This would hang so much better with bias cut bridal ilk. Think: end of WWII, Big Bands, Hollywood glamour. ♫ hiara Francesca Ehi Prof.! Che cosa facciamo stasera?» Quello che facciamo tutte le sere, Mignolo: tentare di conquistare il mondo! » hint: italian) -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On B ehalf Of otsisto Sent: Tuesday, August 04, 2009 9:19 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] What period is this Butterick from? You are looking at probably mid to late 1930s. Possibly a transition dress. May or may not have shoulder pads. Kind of the style http://www.antiquedress.com/item4548.htm http://www.antiquedress.com/item4295.htm http://tinyurl.com/moabph This gives styles of the early `30s to give an idea of what I mean by it possibly being transitional. http://www.agelesspatterns.com/1930s.htm Think Faye Wray movies. :) Then again, the style somewhat repeated in the `80s so maybe it is 1980. :) De -Original Message- Hi, This is slightly off-topic but I'm curious and I figured this list would probably be best to answer. The latest fall Buttericks are out and there is one Making History pattern. Usually I can guess where they have drawn their inspiration from and what period that they are imitating but this is one is puzzling me. If you had to assign a time period what date would you give for this: http://www.butterick.com/item/B5405.htm?tab=costumespage=1 Sharon Nevin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ -costume mailing list -cost...@mail.indra.com ttp://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume __ -costume mailing list -cost...@mail.indra.com ttp://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Regency bib dress
Thanks for sharing--this is a lovely bibfront dress in a dark red silk. In my admittedly un-scientific survey, it seems that prosperous matrons here in the US favored dark silk gowns rather than muslin. There is quite a selection of portraits where women are wearing such garments. Also, in a private collection here in the US, there is a gorgeous silk man's waistcoat of a similar color--it is perfectly plain, but the color is stunning. Ann Wass **A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222846709x1201493018/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072hmpgID=115bcd =JulystepsfooterNO115) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Use of Buttons, was Regency Low stomacher--long again
Ah, you are correct, of course. There are so few extant examples that I really shouldn't jump to conclusions. I had not seen the white one from Vintage Textiles--it looks a little odd for the period--both the row of buttons and the ribbon band--however, she is usually accurate in her dating. I had seen the quilted one (there is some speculation that it might be a made-over quilted petticoat)--I see the band buttons, but not all the way up the front. Fashion plates aren't always helpful, are they? That ubiquitous navy blue one pictured with the green quilted (incidently, also re-drawn in a German publication, where the woman holds an embroidery frame) appears to fasten in back--so belying the idea that a woman just tossed on a spencer when she was cold. There are also, though, some wrap around examples, both in cotton and, I think, silk, so it could be a model like that. However, my overall philosophy for making clothing for reenacting is, stick with what I have pretty good knowledge was really worn, rather than the maybes or the exceptions. I have worked with people who haven't had years of experience looking and researching and it seems that, as soon as someone makes one non-normative example, it has a way of taking on a life of its own and you start seeing them everywhere! So I stick with spencers that meet edge to edge, although I do use modern coat hooks and eyes (hooks and eyes are period though, just not this style), or ties, or a buckle, to fasten them. [I do plan to make a riding habit someday with rows and rows of metal buttons--I have the fabric, and the buttons--now I just need the time to make it! I don't ride but will wear it for traveling.] So, you see, if you did a gown with a skirt panel that buttons, with no firm evidence that such existed, I imagine other people would see yours and copy it and it might become a reenactorism. Just my two cents. Ann Wass **A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222846709x1201493018/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072hmpgID=115bcd =JulystepsfooterNO115) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Use of Buttons, was Regency Low stomacher
In a message dated 8/1/2009 9:12:15 AM Eastern Daylight Time, melaniewil...@dragonflight.co.uk writes: Given the button front is established in this style, buttons seem a potential solution, hooks are another Invisible hooks on the inside is certainly an option. And just one more thing on the topic of spencers and edge to edge fastenings--we had this discussion on the 1812Civilian list a couple of months ago. Barry and Judy McPherson, who have seen many extant garments in English, Scottish, and Canadian collections, agree that the edge to edge seems most common. I agree that we all make compromises--in fact, Sally Queen put together a great diagram for, I think, AASLH, a while back that has a continuum for authenticity, ending in period correct bad breath and rotting teeth (I understand that the Empress Josephine had notoriously bad teeth, so she perfected a closed-lip smile. And I have heard of an 18th c. reenactor who blacks out some teeth.) Good for you for reducing your stash. I am only now emerging from my book project and thinking about sewing again. Ann Wass **A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222846709x1201493018/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072hmpgID=115bcd =JulystepsfooterNO115) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Regency Low stomacher--long
This isn't easy to describe without pictures--I hope you can understand it. I know of two extant examples, but both are cotton.? For wool, a back closing would probably work better--I just saw an extant example of a lovely plain wool gown that opens in back, which answered my question of how I'm going to make up the wool I bought to go with a shawl my husband gave me two years ago. But, about the low stomacher, or apron front, construction.? One of the gowns has a surplice bodice--that is, the fronts cross over and form a V neckline--I don't remember if the original was then pinned or tied closed, but I made mine with ribbon ties that meet and tie in the back.? On the other, the bodice meets edge to edge and ties shut.? The front skirt panel is contructed like that for a bib front gown, with slits on either side.? The panel has a drawstring through it, and one places it over the bodice and ties it in place.? Two things I've found in constructing such gowns--first, people during the period didn't seem to care so much about what I call gaposis, so the bodice may end just at the waist--I like to extend it a little more to give adequate tuck-in below the skirt panel.? Second--one of the extant dresses was made so that the skirt drawstring ran inside the bodice and tied invisibly somehow--this drove me crazy trying to put it on and adjust everything insid! e, so I changed mine to an outer fabric tie as I've made my bibfront dresses.? The tie runs through a casing in the top of the skirt, the ends cross and go around the back, where I place fabric carriers on the side back seams at the waist, then I bring the ends back around to the front to tie.? Having them tie in the front seems to give more security to keep the skirt in position at the raised waistline.? In keeping with the line of the early 19th century, your front panel should lie flat, not gather up.? It helps to cut that front panel to accommodate the tummy--I actually curve those side front edges slightly, taking an inch off at the waist and tapering to nothing at the end of the slit.? The slits can be finished with a narrow hem or a placket facing. Ann Wass -Original Message- From: Melanie Wilson melaniewil...@dragonflight.co.uk To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Sent: Fri, Jul 31, 2009 7:00 am Subject: [h-cost] Regency Low stomacher Does anyone have any pictures or knowledge of the costruction of a low stomacher on a regency gown please, I'm particularly looking for anything of a heavier/winter weight type fabric ? Mel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Regency Low stomacher
Buttons do not seem to be very common in early 19th century dresses (or women's attire in general)--yes, one does occasionally see them on a bib top or up the back, but I don't think buttons on a band as you are suggesting are at all a period solution.? Why won't a drawstring work?? You can face the front panel casing with something lighter, rather than folding over the self fabric, and use a thicker ribbon for your drawstring--say, 1/2 grosgrain.? And, as the front panel is smooth anyway, you don't have to worry that it is bunchy.? You can, of course, pleat up the center back fullness rather than gathering--that is probably what you have in mind anyway. There is an example of a heavier cotton dress in the Old Sturbridge Village collection, but it is bibfront, and I don't remember how the skirt is done.? I saw it in the collection years ago.? http://www.osv.org/explore_learn/collection_viewer.php?N=26.33.166a-d Ann Wass -Original Message- From: Melanie Wilson melaniewil...@dragonflight.co.uk To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Fri, Jul 31, 2009 8:49 am Subject: Re: [h-cost] Regency Low stomacher--long I know of two extant examples, but both are cotton.?? ? I'm actually using cotton but far heavier than I've used before, it does not gather well and I'm not totally happy with the look at the moment? ? But, about the low stomacher, or apron front, construction.?? ? Low stomacher, ie without the bib front, I'm looking a the waistcoat bosom type. Yup slits on side so the front drops down in a similar way to drop fall trousers? ? The panel has a drawstring through it, and one places it over the bodice and ties it in place.?? ? Yes, but this fabric is a bit too heavy for a drawstring. Really I'm looking for examples with a heavier fabric it seems logical to use buttons or a supporting band, there seems to be some hint of these in contampory pictures, but as they are worn, it isn't clear if the construction is the low stomacher? ? Second--one of the extant dresses was made so that the skirt drawstring ran inside the bodice and tied invisibly somehow--this drove me crazy trying to put it on and adjust everything insid!? ? I like that construction, I use some inside tapes.? ? Thanks? ? Mel? ? ___? h-costume mailing list? h-cost...@mail.indra.com? http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Regency Low stomacher
Yes I agree you don't see buttons on many fashion plates, although there seem more on riding habits and more active clothing.? ? Yes, I should have added that buttons do seem to appear on what we might call man-tailored clothing, like riding habits, but not, for example, as closures on spencers or pelisses.? Or, they appear on spencers, for example, as decoration, but aren't functional. Ann Wass -Original Message- From: Melanie Wilson melaniewil...@dragonflight.co.uk To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Fri, Jul 31, 2009 11:23 am Subject: Re: [h-cost] Regency Low stomacher Hi Ann? ? Thanks for the image, the waistband tied behind in the same fabric is one of the thoughts I had.? ? Yes I agree you don't see buttons on many fashion plates, although there seem more on riding habits and more active clothing.? ? Yes I've used lighter fabric on the facing tried various weights of ribbon. Bunching as in gathering isn't the problem, it more how it lies and meets (or does not) with the bodice, without it being too tight to be comfortable? ? It is very quiet here these days isn't it ?? ? Mel? ? ___? h-costume mailing list? h-cost...@mail.indra.com? http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] visiting eastern USA
In a message dated 7/9/2009 11:59:54 PM Eastern Daylight Time, costu...@radiks.net writes: You can also take the Metro (or some train or other) to go between DC and Baltimore. Yes, there is train service, but, if you were going to Fort McHenry, driving would be much easier. However, since the visitors seem to be interested in earlier eras, Fort McHenry might not be the best choice for their limited time. However, the Walters Art Museum in downtown Baltimore has impressive medieval and Renaissance objects in their collection. Ann Wass **Looking for love this summer? Find it now on AOL Personals. (http://personals.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntuslove0003) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What costume things did you learn in the 60s?
I had a Barbie doll dress kit. I said that I learned to sew, period.? But I should add that it was sewing for my Babette doll (a cheaper imitation of Barbie) that got me started.? Does anyone else remember how one could buy a dozen or so outfits for the original Barbie, and they were all printed in a little book?? Well, my first efforts were to try to copy those outfits, but I finally started getting creative.? It was easier once commercial patterns came out for them (I still have all the patterns, BTW). Oh, I never bothered sewing snaps on, but just pinned them shut. Ann Wass -Original Message- From: Sharon Collier sha...@collierfam.com To: 'Historical Costume' h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Wed, Jul 8, 2009 8:26 pm Subject: Re: [h-cost] What costume things did you learn in the 60s? I had a Barbie doll dress kit. You cut out the fabric, but instead of sewing, they had little, tiny, thin, twisty, hard to work with (can you tell I hated it) double sided tape, which you were supposed to use to put the thing together with. It never stuck correctly. I was bummed. -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of annbw...@aol.com Sent: Wednesday, July 08, 2009 4:02 PM To: h-cost...@indra.com Subject: Re: [h-cost] What costume things did you learn in the 60s? I learned how to sew, period. Ann Wass **Looking for love this summer? Find it now on AOL Personals. (http://personals.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntuslove0003) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What costume things did you learn in the 60s?
I learned how to sew, period. Ann Wass **Looking for love this summer? Find it now on AOL Personals. (http://personals.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntuslove0003) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1960s hippie fashions
Ah, but the phrase that I was responding to was that much of what we think of as the 1960s really happened in the 1970s, not necessarily just the hippies of the 1960s. And certainly things happened in different places at different times. For instance, no one wore a grannie dress at my suburban St. Louis high school until after I graduated, in 1969. When my classmates weren't wearing Villager shirtwaists, they did often tend toward the mod look--my first pair of pantyhose (as opposed to stockings) were pale orange and had a diamond pattern. Double-breasted, so-called Edwardian tuxedos were the style of choice for many of my male classmates at the prom, again in the spring of 1969, or so I understood from their discussion--I didn't go (I wasn't anti-prom--I couldn't get a date, and one didn't go without one). I went to a private liberal arts college that had a dress code, skirts only, right up until the fall of 1969, when I started. So no one wore jeans to class until then. Ann Wass **Make your summer sizzle with fast and easy recipes for the grill. (http://food.aol.com/grilling?ncid=emlcntusfood0005) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1960s hippie fashions
In a message dated 7/5/2009 5:30:59 PM Eastern Daylight Time, bear_ja...@msn.com writes: A Villager shirtwaist was a dress, usually cotton, with a full skirt. Villager was the brand - they had a whole line of rather preppy style clothes that were more expensive than other clothes and only were made up to a size 11. **Make your summer sizzle with fast and easy recipes for the grill. (http://food.aol.com/grilling?ncid=emlcntusfood0005) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1960s hippie fashions
In a message dated 7/5/2009 5:30:59 PM Eastern Daylight Time, bear_ja...@msn.com writes: A Villager shirtwaist was a dress, usually cotton, with a full skirt. Villager was the brand - they had a whole line of rather preppy style clothes that were more expensive than other clothes and only were made up to a size 11. Whoops--sorry for the blank post. Yes, Villager was a brand. A shirtwaist, at least in 1960s terminology, is a dress with a fitted bodice--bust and waist darts--and buttons down the center front--attached to a skirt. It could be full in the 1950s or early 1960s, but by the late '60s was often A-line. The fabric was often a cotton with a floral sort of serpentine print. To make the style work with a full skirt, there was a slit placket opening at center front, or, sometimes, an underarm zipper. I never had an authentic Villager dress, but merely homemade styles (that I made myself.) I still have the pattern I used, Simplity 8296 from 1969. The A-line view had the underarm zipper. I think I used another pattern for the full-skirted view, which had a slit placket but no underarm zipper. Dresses could have short sleeves with a turned up cuff, or long sleeves with a button cuff, and a convertible collar. Ann Wass **Make your summer sizzle with fast and easy recipes for the grill. (http://food.aol.com/grilling?ncid=emlcntusfood0005) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] 1960s fashions; was 1960s hippie fashions
The other thing that was big in my high school in the late 1960s was the London Fog yellow poplin zip-front jacket. They were really ubiquitous--looking out at a school assembly,. one saw a sea of light yellow. And, rumor had it that they were stolen from our gym locker room. (I never had one of these, either--pricey and not very practical for Missouri winters.) But I'm curious if this fad was wide-spread during the late '60s at high schools in other parts of the country. Ann Wass **Make your summer sizzle with fast and easy recipes for the grill. (http://food.aol.com/grilling?ncid=emlcntusfood0005) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1960s hippie fashions
In a message dated 7/5/2009 6:41:35 PM Eastern Daylight Time, ricka...@muc.edu writes: Were you in the Midwest? Don't know if this was aimed at me, but yes, I was--lived in the close-in suburbs of St. Louis, Missouri. Ann wass **Make your summer sizzle with fast and easy recipes for the grill. (http://food.aol.com/grilling?ncid=emlcntusfood0005) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Research problems WAS: Primary source for Elizabethan pillbox ha...
In a message dated 7/5/2009 10:43:34 PM Eastern Daylight Time, kay...@gmail.com writes: Nowadays I don't even recommend Wilcox as an overview, tho I do still have a copy of it. We have had this discussion before, but I'll weigh in again. Wilcox was one of the books that got me started in costume history. I made paper dolls based on several of my favorites. I found a copy cheap at a flea market almost 30 years ago and have it still. Do I rely on it for research? No. It has been interesting through the years to recognize the sources her drawings were based on--some seem to have been primary sources, like fashion plates. Occasionally, if I need clip art of, say, a fan or glove or something and I find the line drawings handy to scan for that. Ann Wass **Looking for love this summer? Find it now on AOL Personals. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Garibaldi Shirt WAS: Primary source for Elizabethan pillbox hats...
In a message dated 7/5/2009 11:03:42 PM Eastern Daylight Time, cha...@hotmail.com writes: Assuming this is going to be made out of cotton you should look for a print were the pattern is somewhat uniform. They had a lot of rollerprinted patterns so if you can see the pattern repeating uniformly as if a roller with a single pattern was rolled the length of the fabric that is a good sign. It is fairly easy to find printed cottons taken from mid-19th century designs--search at a quilt shop. (If only EARLY 19th century designs were as easy to find!) Ann Wass **Looking for love this summer? Find it now on AOL Personals. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1960s hippie fashions
In a message dated 7/5/2009 9:12:22 PM Eastern Daylight Time, lando...@netins.net writes: Would this be similar to the day dresses worn on shows like Leave it to Beaver and I Love Lucy? Oh, yes, the shirtwaist started life at least in the 1950s, and maybe before (I'm ashamed that, as a costume historian, I can't tell you for sure, but then, I haven't really studied the 20th century all that much in recent years.) Ann Wass **Looking for love this summer? Find it now on AOL Personals. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1960s hippie fashions
In a message dated 7/4/2009 7:37:43 PM Eastern Daylight Time, sovag...@cybermesa.com writes: [who thinks it is true that the Sixties mostly happened in the Seventies] Oh, absolutely. Ann Wass **Make your summer sizzle with fast and easy recipes for the grill. (http://food.aol.com/grilling?ncid=emlcntusfood0005) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1960s hippie fashions
Oh, many styles and events that people remember as 1960s are actually 1970s. I think the most memorable event may be the National Guard/Kent State incident, which was actually in the spring of 1970. Right off the top of my head, clothing-wise, I'm thinking of polyester double knits, and men's super wide ties and wild plaid jackets with patch pockets, and leisure suits. I have the Simplicity Sewing for Men and Boys, copyright 1973, that has wonderful examples. Ann Wass **Make your summer sizzle with fast and easy recipes for the grill. (http://food.aol.com/grilling?ncid=emlcntusfood0005) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Historic sewing conferences in the US?
Costume College in the Los Angeles area. If you are looking for education, I would suggest Costume College.? I went to Costume Con this year and, while the fashion shows are fun, the education sessions I attended were, I thought, sub-par.? I only had to drive up the road, though--I would definitely not travel half-way around the world for it. Ann Wass -Original Message- From: Kimiko Small sstormwa...@yahoo.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Tue, Jun 23, 2009 1:37 am Subject: Re: [h-cost] Historic sewing conferences in the US? Costume College in the Los Angeles area. I don't know next year's dates, but it will be at a larger Marriott hotel, which hopefully means more room for more people to attend. http://costumecollege.org/ CostumeCon 28 http://www.cc28.org/ International Congress on Medieval Studies http://www.wmich.edu/medieval/congress/ Robin Netherton could tell you more. Costume Society of America's Annual Symposium. http://www.costumesocietyamerica.com/natsym.htm That's all I can think of off the top of my head. I am sure there are more out there. Kimiko --- On Mon, 6/22/09, Aylwen Garden aylwe...@gmail.com wrote: I'm thinking about travelling to the US to attend a historic sewing conference some time in 2010 when I'm not organising any here grin. Can you send me names and weblinks to any you know of? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Quiet list?
I'm preparing my research exhibit for the Costume Society of America's annual symposium in Phoenix at the end of the month. I know there are some H-COST members who are also CSA members. Shall we try the red H for that? Unfortunately, I didn't run into many at CC27. Of course, I had to come and go--couldn't stay for the whole thing. Ann Wass **An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy Steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221823239x1201398650/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072hmpgID=62bcd=May Excfooter51509NO62) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] CC27 historical judge talks about documentation
Thanks so much for taking the time to explicate. This was my first CostumeCon. Don't know when, or if, I will go to another, but am toying with the idea of entering the historical masquerade, if I do attend another. Ann Wass **Big savings on Dell’s most popular laptops. Now starting at $449! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221827510x1201399090/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B214663377%3B36502382%3Bh) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] CC27
H-costume list! H is for Historic.? Ah, shucks--no Hester Prynne jokes? Ann Wass -Original Message- From: Judy Mitchell judymi...@theoldforest.net To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Thu, 30 Apr 2009 8:57 am Subject: Re: [h-cost] CC27 Becky Rautine wrote:? What is the H for? I know some kind of badge...why an H?What does the H stans for?? Sincerely, Rebecca Rautine? ? ? H-costume list! H is for Historic.? ? ? -Judy Mitchell? ___? h-costume mailing list? h-cost...@mail.indra.com? http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] CC27
Ann, if you'd like to wear a fancy embroidered Scarlet H... No time for embroidery--I'm thinking about one of the ready-made applique letters, actually--but I'll see what I can do before tomorrow night.? Need to sew new hooks and eyes on my dress first. Ann Wass -Original Message- From: Judy Mitchell judymi...@theoldforest.net To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Thu, 30 Apr 2009 9:11 am Subject: Re: [h-cost] CC27 annbw...@aol.com wrote:? H-costume list! H is for Historic.?? Ah, shucks--no Hester Prynne jokes?? Ann Wass? ? ? Ann, if you'd like to wear a fancy embroidered Scarlet H... I'm sure we'd be happy to look amusedly askance at your shame(lessness) G? ? ? -Judy Mitchell? ___? h-costume mailing list? h-cost...@mail.indra.com? http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 8, Issue 148
In a message dated 4/30/2009 6:49:21 PM Eastern Daylight Time, cinbar...@gmail.com writes: Coffee in the AM, perhaps? I'll be the auxilliary backup hostess at the Hairspray party, along with Misch Lee whom I met on this list back when rocks were soft. H-costume is certainly welcome to call that a meetup place. I've decided to stay over Friday night, so I could do Saturday morning coffee. Have to head back Sat. afternoon, so not sure how much of the Hairspray party I can take in. (Surely, EVERYONE on this list knows that Hairspray is set in Baltimore, yes?) Ann Wass **Big savings on Dell XPS Laptops and Desktops!(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1219491521x1201306563/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fad.double click.net%2Fclk%3B214102108%3B35952091%3Bs) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] CC27
Dear List, I'm going to check out Costume Con this year, since it is nearby.? As I've never been, what will list members be wearing as ID? Ann Wass ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] CC27
Where is it this year? Timonium, which is just north of Baltmore, Maryland, near the Maryland State Fairgrounds. Ann Wass -Original Message- From: Becky Rautine zearti...@hotmail.com To: h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Wed, 29 Apr 2009 3:53 pm Subject: Re: [h-cost] CC27 here is it this year? Sincerely, Rebecca Rautine To: h-cost...@indra.com Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2009 14:42:24 -0400 From: annbw...@aol.com Subject: [h-cost] CC27 Dear List, I'm going to check out Costume Con this year, since it is nearby.? As I've ever been, what will list members be wearing as ID? Ann Wass ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume _ ediscover Hotmail®: Get quick friend updates right in your inbox. ttp://windowslive.com/RediscoverHotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Rediscover_Updates2_042009 __ -costume mailing list -cost...@mail.indra.com ttp://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] CC27
So sounds like I should contrive some kind of red H, eh? Ann Wass **Big savings on Dell XPS Laptops and Desktops!(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1220631276x1201390200/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fad.double click.net%2Fclk%3B214101948%3B35952020%3Bv) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods
In a message dated 4/17/2009 9:30:36 PM Eastern Daylight Time, rmitch...@staff.washjeff.edu writes: My husband's favorite tale is one of showing up at the stated bookstore to sing up for the rental gown at xxxfee and the salesman took him aside and said I don't want to disuade you from getting a new one, but if you step over here, you might change your mind. I asked about ordering a real gown instead of the crappy one, and was told they were special order and had to be ordered further in advance than the time remaining before commencement. It does seem there were be a market for used ones, though. Ann Wass **Check all of your email inboxes from anywhere on the web. Try the new Email Toolbar now! (http://toolbar.aol.com/mail/download.html?ncid=txtlnkusdown0027) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods
In a message dated 4/17/2009 7:20:20 AM Eastern Daylight Time, ruthan...@mindspring.com writes: I don't get invited to participate in graduation, so things may have changed over the last decade or so. Maybe you wouldn't want to, but couldn't you go anyway? I was just a part-time instructor at Morgan State University, but when I heard that President Clinton was going to speak, I got dressed up and went--had to borrow a hood, as I hadn't bought one. No one seemed to care one way or the other that I went--I just had to go through the metal detector with everyone else. Ann Wass **Join ChristianMingle.com® FREE! Meet Christian Singles in your area. Start now! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221246370x1201421635/aol?redir=http://www.christianmingle.com/campaign.html?cat=adbuysrc=pl atformaadid=aolfooternewurl=reg_path.html) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods
Wow, this has been fun!? A lot more people than I would have thought who have made their own garb.? As I said, I got out of academia, so finally gave away the cording and other stuff I had bought when I was fired up with the ambition to make my own snazzy outfit. Ann Wass -Original Message- From: Melanie Schuessler mela...@faucet.net To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Fri, 17 Apr 2009 8:45 am Subject: Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods On Apr 17, 2009, at 7:21 AM, Ruth Anne Baumgartner wrote:? ? Master's hoods have narrower bands the color of which, I believe, tells only the type of Master's (M.A., M.S., etc.), and a lining in the institution's colors.? ? The velvet bands on Master's hoods are color-coded by discipline.? ? The things ARE rather counter-intuitive to put on, but if someone would explain to the kids that the little loops are meant to go around a shirt button I think they'd figur out how to get it on right-side-up eventually.? ? Every time I walk at commencement I see full-professor PhDs who have no idea how to wear their hoods. As a professional costumer, my strong urge is to go around fixing their costumes, but since I don't know most of them, I restrain myself!? ? the M.A. robe has bat-wing sleeves, traditionally sewn closed across the bottom and with a horizontal slit at about the elbow for the arm to come through (but cheap robes may have open sleeves that come down to the elbow in front and are angled longer in back--yes, no place for tissues, car keys, or the Times crossword)? ? When I made mine, I made the sleeves the same shape as the modern ones, but open from the shoulder to the wrist in front like the hanging sleeve from which they are derived. It means I have to wear black sleeves underneath it, but it looks much less silly than the ones with wrist-level slits. I also did the pleats in the body of the gown like the 16th-century VA loose gown in Arnold's Patterns of Fashion. I decided that since I'm a 16th-century scholar, I should dress like a 16th-century scholar!? ? Theoretically here only Ph.D.s are entitled to the soft square cap instead of the mortarboard (and only they get the gold tassel), but many M.A.s who own their regalia wear the soft cap too, but with a black tassel.? ? Some British institutions use the Tudor round cap in velvet for PhDs, so I made mine in plain black wool with no tassel (since I'm a mere MFA).? ? Melanie Schuessler? Eastern Michigan University? ___? h-costume mailing list? h-cost...@mail.indra.com? http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods
You also have to know, as Harriet Vane comments in Dorothy L. Sayers' GAUDY NIGHT, how to turn the velvet border so the silk lining shows. Yes, the least they could do as part of the approving of a degree is to instruct the recipient on how to put on the duds! I KNOW we got instruction when I got my BA.? Don't remember if there was just a detailed how-to sheet included, or what, but we definitely all found out how to do it.? It is, though, one of those things that, if you don't do it for a while, it takes a little bit to remember how.? But if one did it once or twice a year, it should become second nature. Ann Wass -Original Message- From: ruthan...@mindspring.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Fri, 17 Apr 2009 12:03 pm Subject: Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods You also have to know, as Harriet Vane comments in Dorothy L. Sayers' GAUDY NIGHT, how to turn the velvet border so the silk lining shows. Yes, the least they could do as part of the approving of a degree is to instruct the recipient on how to put on the duds! --Ruth Anne Baumgartner -Original Message- From: Land of Oz lando...@netins.net Sent: Apr 17, 2009 10:28 AM To: 'Historical Costume' h-cost...@indra.com Subject: Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods Every time I walk at commencement I see full-professor PhDs who have no idea how to wear their hoods. As a professional costumer, my strong urge is to go around fixing their costumes, but since I don't know most of them, I restrain myself! That's probably because very few people know, and when you get set up for graduation, no one tells you any of this stuff. I wish I had known some of this stuff when I got my Master's degree. All they tell you is to go to the bookstore and pick up a robe. Then, you might find (as I did) that the example robes hanging out to try on are mis-labeled and the packaged robe you bought doesn't fit! No one mentioned anything about hoods or other items for master's degrees and I don't recall anyone wearing any from any dept. or college within the university. Denise B ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods
Math and all of the other disciplines have a traditional color so that if you are watching a 'parade', you can identify what department the wearer represents. Here is what I remember, without looking it up: The hood lining is the school colors.? The velvet edging, which varies in width according to the degree, is traditionally, white for arts (BA, MA), gold for sciences (BS, MS), and blue for philosophy, hence the Ph.D.? However, a modern innovation is to use specific disciplines for that color--mine, for example, was home economics, and designated as maroon.? The velvet stripes on the doctoral robe can be black or the blue. Both the hood and the gown are different styles for the different degrees.? I seem to remember the master's has the long hanging sleeves--a place to stash your stuff! Unfortunately, the ready-made ones that people buy, instead of rent, nowadays often resemble the cheapy Ben Cooper Halloween costumes, so, yes, cheesy fabric and gathers instead of nice pleats.? Ann Wass -Original Message- From: R Lloyd Mitchell rmitch...@staff.washjeff.edu To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 9:20 am Subject: Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods Yes, the hat I described is the floppy one...and now seems to be the major style of Phds at WJ, Pa. After reading some of the other replies, it would appear that the color scheme is not totally understood. Math and all of the other disciplines have a traditional color so that if you are watching a 'parade', you can identify what department the wearer represents. The other color identifies what Institution the degree was gained. The style of the hood itself identifies the Degree of higher learning. Thus, ubless every one went to the same university the colors will make their own honorific statement. Kathleen -Original Message- From: Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Sent 4/15/2009 8:45:48 PM To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Subject: Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic HoodsQuoting R Lloyd Mitchell rmitch...@staff.washjeff.edu: I used my husband's hood to make one for my soninlaw. Is yours to be for the MA or Phd. I would be happy to make up a pattern for you. First, research the general style (any of Academic garb sites and find out the proper colors for School and discipline to be featured. I can also send you my pattern for an Oxford don hat. You can get a wonderful gilt tassel from a present company...which I will identify from my records. Is that (the Oxford Don hat) the octagon-shaped tudor-flat-cap kinda hat? I so want one of those. My morter-board cap is just way too big on my little pin-head! I have a PhD hood, but I just would like to get the patterns for both kinds of hoods (in my observations this morning, most folks don't know how they're supposed to hang! Those MS hoods are more hood like but they're harder to make hang right.) There are more than a few folks here who have no hoods -- if I had patterns, I could whip up some hoods for the division to have as reserves. I have *no* clue how to take my hood and make a pattern from it. Thanks! Susan - Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Di vision of Science and Mathhttp://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-cost...@mail.indra.comhttp://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ??= ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods
I want to make me a gown out of either linen or tropical weight wool -- wearing a black plastic bag in south Georgia in the summer is not my idea of fun! And I got curious as to hood patterns.? I had planned to make my own garb, but then got out of academia, so never did.? I was going to borrow a friend's hood fto make?the pattern.? I think some of the minister/choir robe patterns on the market are good for the robe.? They used to sell pleating tape that would make the little cartridge pleats, and I was going to use that to get the proper pleating.? Silk would probably be more authentic than linen or wool, but linen would be more comfortable, for sure, and wool wouldn't wrinkle like linen, which would probably be a total mess by the end of the ceremony.? Also, it seems to me most linens are not deep, dark, black. Good luck! Ann Wass -Original Message- From: Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Sent: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 3:57 pm Subject: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods Has anybody ever run across a pattern for contemporary Academic Hoods (which if you believe the line that the college uses are unchanged since the 13th century -- I'm gonna make me 13th century academic garb if I can figure out what it is -- just because!)?? ? I want to make me a gown out of either linen or tropical weight wool -- wearing a black plastic bag in south Georgia in the summer is not my idea of fun! And I got curious as to hood patterns.? ? Susan? -? Susan Farmer? sfar...@goldsword.com? Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College? Division of Science and Math? http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/? ? ___? h-costume mailing list? h-cost...@mail.indra.com? http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Peacock Wedding Dress
My husband sent me this story and suggested I share it. http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/worldnews/article-1169646/Strut-aisle-1-5m-wedding-dress-2009-peacock-feathers.html Ann Wass ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Peacock Wedding Dress
In a message dated 4/13/2009 5:43:43 PM Eastern Daylight Time, albert...@aol.com writes: The skirt is awesome, but I really hate the print bodice Well, I'm kind of lukewarm about it, too. But as someone who has worked with peacock feathers on a MUCH smaller scale, I must say, they aren't as easy to match as you might think. The colors are really muted, and most peacock prints I've seen have much more vibrant colors that don't really coordinate, and the same goes for choosing one of the solid colors--so-called peacock blue, for instance, is much brighter than the colors in the real feathers (technically, actually, not feathers, but bracts). So maybe that choice wasn't so bad, after all. Ann Wass **Access 350+ FREE radio stations anytime from anywhere on the web. Get the Radio Toolbar! (http://toolbar.aol.com/aolradio/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown0002) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Caiaphas
In a message dated 3/13/2009 2:12:54 AM Eastern Daylight Time, albert...@aol.com writes: Caiaphas should have a breastplate (large square pendant on chain) with 12 stones on it, as he was the high priest. He also should have a beard. Thanks to both--I did find Flavius Josephus's description of priestly garb in his History of the Jewish People. So I read about the vestment (with fringe and bells around the bottom), sash, and breastplate. He says the vestment was blue, so I'm assuming the shellfish blue still used in prayer shawls; however, I think the pageant coordinator is going to insist on black. I figure I can live with black as long as I can do the sash, fringe, and breastplate and an appropriate headdress. My husband has a beard--I think that is one reason he got the part. I'm pretty sure I can do this without patterns, but thanks for the links. Ann Wass **Need a job? Find employment help in your area. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=employment_agenciesncid=emlcntusyelp0005) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Caiaphus
Dear List, My husband will be playing Caiaphus in our church's Maundy Thursday pageant.? Where can I go for costume information beyond the draped in a bedsheet variety? Thanks. Ann Wass ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Caiaphas; was Caiaphus
My husband will be playing Caiaphus Sorry--that should be Caiaphas. Ann Wass -Original Message- From: annbw...@aol.com To: h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Thu, 12 Mar 2009 3:37 pm Subject: [h-cost] Caiaphus Dear List, My husband will be playing Caiaphus in our church's Maundy Thursday pageant.? Where can I go for costume information beyond the draped in a bedsheet variety? Thanks. Ann Wass ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] FW: bleeding fabric
In a message dated 2/24/2009 2:20:33 AM Eastern Standard Time, sha...@collierfam.com writes: Any suggestions on what I can do? Soak it in something to set the dye? Or should I just return it to the store? I would return it to the store. Any of the traditional remedies for setting dye, such as soaking in salt water, may or may not be successful, depending on the particular type of dye, and you have no way of knowing that. You could go through several processes and still have a runny color in the end--I don't think it is worth it if you can easily return it. Ann Wass **Get a jump start on your taxes. Find a tax professional in your neighborhood today. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=Tax+Return+Preparation+%26+Filingncid=emlcntusyelp0004) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Yellow power tie?
A quick Google turns up that the yellow power tie was 1980s, and a 1987 article alluding to the fact that they were already on the way out--so sounds mid-80s to me.? (Sorry I don't remember from personal experience--my husband was in the military in those years so had no choice of tie color!) Ann Wass -Original Message- From: aqua...@patriot.net To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 10:31 am Subject: Re: [h-cost] Yellow power tie? Kate Pinner wrote: I realize it's now passe, but I'm doing a production of Angels in America that takes place in 1985-86. That's too early for yellow. In the mid/late 80's the power tie was red, either a solid red or the striped one, occasionally a tiny print. I went to work in the bank district in Boston in 87, and anyone who was anyone wore a black suit with a red tie. Women wore brightly printed power scarves. I still have mine in the closet. I don't think yellow came in until the 90's. Dawn I don't remember the specific years, either, but it was the red power tie and the yellow sincere tie. -Carol ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Yellow power tie?
Yes! That was it! Even when it was everywhere, yellow was not the power tie. I'd forgotten it was supposed to be sincere, but that's indeed the word that was used.? ? Oh, I definitely remember the yellow ties being called power ties, too, though--I just didn't remember quite when that was. Ann Wass -Original Message- From: Robin Netherton ro...@netherton.net To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 1:38 pm Subject: Re: [h-cost] Yellow power tie? aqua...@patriot.net wrote:? ? I don't remember the specific years, either, but it was the red? power tie and the yellow sincere tie.? ? Yes! That was it! Even when it was everywhere, yellow was not the power tie. I'd forgotten it was supposed to be sincere, but that's indeed the word that was used.? ? And here's that nasty yellow color:? http://cgi.ebay.com/RARE-BROOKS-BROTHERS-TIE-VINTAGE-YELLOW-PAISLEY_W0QQitemZ320340819887? ? --Robin? ? ___? h-costume mailing list? h-cost...@mail.indra.com? http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Bow Tie--was Yellow Power Tie
In a message dated 2/18/2009 7:08:59 PM Eastern Standard Time, cc2010m...@cs.com writes: And I always keep an eye open for those daring few who know the Way of the Bow Tie. Politicians still seem to be favoring the red tie. But I have to tell you all that my husband knows the Way of the --estimating he wears them about 75 percent of the time now. I have fun searching them out for him. We live in the DC area, and Nordstrom had people out at curbside on Inauguration night to help guys tie their ties. Similarly, on New Year's Eve, 1999, we stopped at a local Kmart for something, and a poor guy was there wondering if anyone could help him tie his bow tie. My husband came to the rescue. While we didn't find what we were looking for at Kmart, we were clearly meant to be there--I doubt if anyone else could have helped the gent. Ann Wass **Need a job? Find an employment agency near you. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=employment_agenciesncid=emlcntusyelp0003) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Off-topic fabric search
In a message dated 2/1/2009 2:35:48 AM Eastern Standard Time, fathal...@collinscom.net writes: Our Walmart sewing section is getting smaller and smaller, alas. The manager claims it isn't, bur I think he fibs... I don't think there is any doubt about it. We discussed here a couple of years ago that many Walmarts are eliminating the department alltogether. A JoAnn's in our area has just closed, too. The big local chain here, G Street Fabrics, seems also to have cut way back on inventory. I have gone in with coupon in hand a couple of times recently and couldn't find anything I wanted to buy. A friend of mine in NYC laments that many of those stores have even closed Let's face it, people just aren't sewing like they used to. Project Runway has evidently caused a little blip among the younger folks, but it may not be enough! To the original post, JoAnn's had some sari cottons with metallic threads last year, but who knows if they will this year? I'm assuming you don't live in an area that has actual Indian stores. (We have several here in the DC area.) Ann Wass **From Wall Street to Main Street and everywhere in between, stay up-to-date with the latest news. (http://aol.com?ncid=emlcntaolcom0023) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Off-topic fabric search
In a message dated 2/1/2009 8:38:02 PM Eastern Standard Time, fathal...@collinscom.net writes: and a Ben Franklin that just opened (haven't been in yet - this weekend, I hope.) Well, don't discount them altogether. A couple of years ago, I found a GREAT cotton print for an early 19th century dress, plus a Lacis handbag frame at a Ben Franklin--both unexpected, but pleasant, surprises. Ann Wass **From Wall Street to Main Street and everywhere in between, stay up-to-date with the latest news. (http://aol.com?ncid=emlcntaolcom0023) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Striped Regency day dress fashion plate?
There are several plates of striped day dresses. Last year, I did a search to find patterned dresses. There are a couple of French illustrations that show printed fabric, too. I think patterned fabrics were more common than they appear because of the difficulty of engraving stripes or a pattern for a fashion plate. These are at the office, and I will try to remember to look for them on Monday. Some of the images are from a CD collection which, unfortunately, I have misplaced at the moment. Ann Wass **A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/10075x1215855013x1201028747/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072%26hmpgID=62%26bcd=De cemailfooterNO62) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What We Wore BBC colour film 1957 on Costume
In a message dated 1/10/2009 2:45:59 PM Eastern Standard Time, s...@suziclarke.co.uk writes: It does! But it's not available in my areaso I don't get to see it. When I clicked on that page there was a 15 minute film, sound and colour - was it not there for you? Same for me--I clicked the play button, and a message, not available in your area came up. Maybe because I'm not in the UK? Ann Wass **A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/10075x1215855013x1201028747/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072%26hmpgID=62%26bcd=De cemailfooterNO62) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Yellowed silk
In a message dated 1/4/2009 1:51:19 PM Eastern Standard Time, albert...@aol.com writes: Silk comes from caterpillarsit's their cocoon. It has little to do with hair. Well, silk IS a protein fiber, like wool and hair. However, I think most of the products that brighten yellow hair actually give it a blue cast. It is likely that your fiber, whatever it is, has undergone an irrevsersible chemical change. Not what you want to hear, I know. Ann Wass **New year...new news. Be the first to know what is making headlines. (http://www.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntaolcom0026) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Costume- and sewing-related Christmas gifts
In a message dated 12/28/2008 1:03:10 AM Eastern Standard Time, costu...@radiks.net writes: a round box made with a wire frame covered with pale blue crystal organza and a bow - styled like a hatbox but somewhat smaller. Don't know yet what I'll use it for - the person who gave it to me said it reminded her of my costumes That sounds like the box that a Pajamagram comes in--while it is too small for a regular hat, I've found that one of my period turbans fits in it just fine. (My husband has given me two, in different sizes, in the past--when he heard them advertised on the radio, he said he went to see if I was using mine, and, of course, they have hats in them!) Ann Wass **One site keeps you connected to all your email: AOL Mail, Gmail, and Yahoo Mail. Try it now. (http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dpicid=aolcom40vanityncid=emlcntaolcom0025) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Advice on books available from Amazon.com
In a message dated 11/21/2008 7:27:15 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Costume in Detail: 1730-1930 by Nancy Bradfield BW line drawings and notes. Accurate, but still drawings, not patterns or construction diagrams. There are some measurements such as sleeve length or depth of a cuff, but not something I could reproduce an outfit from. Sorry I missed the original post. While I agree with the above assessment, I think Costume in Detail is a MUST HAVE for anyone who is halfway serious into study of garments of this period. They provide so many details on the interior construction, plus line drawings of sources that you can then track down elsewhere. Ann Wass **One site has it all. Your email accounts, your social networks, and the things you love. Try the new AOL.com today!(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/10075x1212962939x1200825291/aol?redir=http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp %26icid=aolcom40vanity%26ncid=emlcntaolcom0001) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] NHR patterns
In a message dated 10/26/2008 3:36:01 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: or if you can find it, line it with flannel backed satin I believe, sold under the trade name Sun back or Sunbak or something like that. I know the major fabric stores used to carry it, and yes, it would be ever so much easier than installing an interlining of non-woven fleece. Ann Wass **Play online games for FREE at Games.com! All of your favorites, no registration required and great graphics – check it out! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/10075x1211202682x1200689022/aol?redir= http://www.games.com?ncid=emlcntusgame0001) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Costumes that morph
In a message dated 9/11/2008 9:02:17 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Some amazing costume renditions in this odd little video. I'm guessing it's a teaser for a stage show. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sAFI1i5FIBc The costumes morph as the performer sings. It must have been pretty fun to design. That was amazing! My husband got a kick out of it, too. Would love to see this guy in person. Ann Wass **Pt...Have you heard the news? There's a new fashion blog, plus the latest fall trends and hair styles at StyleList.com. (http://www.stylelist.com/trends?ncid=aolsty000514) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Help with OT Costume--and even more OT
In a message dated 9/12/2008 2:05:40 AM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: the one with the women that took the illegal Venus drug to make them beautiful, Mudd's Women and with the women robots I, Mudd. And one of the few bits I remember from my teen years reading movie magazines--the women were played by identical twins, so they could have two real women in the picture at once. Ann Wass **Pt...Have you heard the news? There's a new fashion blog, plus the latest fall trends and hair styles at StyleList.com. (http://www.stylelist.com/trends?ncid=aolsty000514) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] walmart fabrics--veering OT and a rant
Even though it is a canned letter, that doesn't mean it wasn't a reasoned response, and it indicates that someone has done something. One doesn't always get any kind of response. Sorry, I just get really tired of constant Walmart bashing. I don't work for them, don't own stock, etc. But, to me, Walmart is the epitome of the American experience. Sam Walton started with one single Ben Franklin store and went from there. I was disappointed when, in Mississippi, Walmart bought out Gaylord's and didn't put in a fabric department, which, of course, Gaylord's didn't have. That was in the mid-1980s. I will be sad if they close ALL the fabric departments, but the canned letter makes it sound like they don't plan to do so, and I'll add my voice to others and let them know how I feel. I've had an experience of needing a yard of ribbon at 11:00 at night at Walmart and not being able to find anyone to cut it. (Of course, how many places can you even shop for ribbon at 11:00 at night?) But I've had a dreadful lack-of-customer-service experience at Hancock Fabrics, too. And the big local Super JoAnn's that opened in our area about ten years ago got rid of all the great exotic silks and wools within a couple of years--I assume they just didn't sell. Alas, though, fabric stores in general just aren't doing that well, as people aren't sewing as much. I can only get to NY once a year, at most, and I don't want to shop for everything on line--I'm too tactile for that, so I'll miss the local outlets if they all go away. I live in the DC area, and I have seen a great decline in variety at G Street (and I don't think it is just the new generation running the place--I still think it boils down to PEOPLE AREN'T SEWING AS MUCH. During the last sale, I went with my additional 25% off coupon and had a hard time finding ANYTHING I wanted to buy.) Okay, enough of my rant. Ann Wass **Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? Read reviews on AOL Autos. (http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut000517 ) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Fabric shops, was walmart fabrics
BTW, We have independent fabric shops in this area, and I shop in them once in a while. The biggest problem with them is that they never seem to have heard of the Textile Products Identification Act. Much of the fabric is not labeled at all, so it is a crap shoot as to what one is getting. Sure I sneak a few fibers and take them out and burn them sometimes, but that isn't foolproof. And the customer service in these stores is a real mixed bag, too. Ann Wass **Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? Read reviews on AOL Autos. (http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut000517 ) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Wal-Mart fabrics ........1 reason why their going out..(imho)
In a message dated 8/8/2008 7:24:11 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Plus buying only 1970 reject neon print polyester knits, doesn't make for a core of saleable merchandise. that is not even fit for the $1 table. Well, in Walmart's defense, I have NEVER, EVER seen 1970s neon print knits on the $1 table in sotres I've been in--maybe that is their California thing. Ann Wass **Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? Read reviews on AOL Autos. (http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut000517 ) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] walmart fabrics
but occasionally you could find some decent cottons at least. Yes, I found an absolutely wonderful blue and orange plaid cotton once, just like a turn-of-the-nineteenth century madras. Ann Wass -Original Message- From: Joan Broneske [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: 'Historical Costume' [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Fri, 8 Aug 2008 1:31 pm Subject: Re: [h-cost] walmart fabrics Wouldn't surprise me in the least. Life Celebrations? Yeah, sounds like a Martha Stewart kind of label. It's too bad really. It's not like they had a huge craft section to begin with, but for people who may not have a regular craft or fabric store near them (but usually have a Walmart, of course!) it was fine. Unfortunately, most of their sale table fabrics were icky, cheap polyester, but occasionally you could find some decent cottons at least. I'm sure a lot of it has to do with the target clientele and the usual clientele of the store don't craft a lot or sew, so they are catering to them. Why make clothes when you can buy Walmart's cheap, *hitty Chinese clothes! The Walmart closest to me has a fair-sized craft/fabric section, but the next closest one to me has no fabric and only a very small crafts section. . /' // . // |\//7 /' \ . . . | (\ '._ | '._ ''. ' /\'-'_---. ) ) . :.' | \ | .. . . ' .| | | \^ /_-': / / | |'\ .' / /| | \\ | \ \( ) // / \ | |// / ! ! // / Joan Broneske [_] |[_| [EMAIL PROTECTED] -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Cactus Sent: Friday, August 08, 2008 9:20 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] walmart fabrics Anyone see the ad on tv that Martha Stewart is now selling her wares in Walmart? Wonder if that was part of her deal, to get rid of the fabric department to make room for her merchandise. Just speculating, don't shoot me! :) Cactus --- On Thu, 8/7/08, Susan Data-Samtak [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: Susan Data-Samtak [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] walmart fabrics To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] D ate: Thursday, August 7, 2008, 6:57 PM The reply to my Walmart messge about Fabrics: Thank you for your message. Dear Susan, Thank you for your recent inquiry regarding the fabric department in your local store. As with any merchandise decision that we make, we have based our decision to reduce the stitching and fabric departments on customer demand, which does not appear to be as high today for a full stitching and fabric offering in some markets as it may have been at Wal-Mart in the past. In keeping with our emphasis on being a store of the community, Wal- Mart is converting the fabrics and crafts department in some stores to a newly expanded assortment of merchandise that focuses on life's celebrations. We are thrilled to offer our customers this exciting new crafts and celebrations center that makes available craft and party planning needs along with information on current trends and new ideas in the area of life's celebrations, such as holidays, weddings and birthdays. In those stores where the new crafts and celebrations center is placed, merchandise commonly referred to as 'notions' will be included in the product offerings - such as sewing machines, yarn, needles, thread, etc. As a part of this conversion, most of our new and remodeled stores that opened earlier this year, as well as a small number of existing stores, will feature the new crafts and celebrations center in place of bolt fabrics. Wal-Mart will continue to carry cut fabric in most of our stores. Due to the continued evaluation of our stores, we are unable to share a list of existing stores scheduled to receive the new crafts and celebrations center at this time. Thank you, Wal-Mart Customer Relations ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume __ _ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Wal-Mart fabric dept.
In a message dated 8/7/2008 2:40:32 AM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Today I was informed that since things have settled down, Wal-Mart feels it is safe to go ahead with it's plan to get rid of their fabrics. Our local Wal-Mart opened without one, and doesn't even carry much in the way of notions. Anyway, a letter-writing campaign may be in order to save what is left. Ann Wass **Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? Read reviews on AOL Autos. (http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut000517 ) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] wrapping turbans [was:Curious about headdress - Arabic?
Lynn McMasters is working on a series of articles for the online publication Your Wardrobe Unlock'd about wrapping turbans for Regency wear. I don't have a subscription yet, so can't comment on the articles, but I saw Lynn over the weekend at Costume College (where she taught turban wrapping) wearing a huge turban, and it looked great I would like to add that many Regency era turbans were evidently not extemporaneously wrapped on the head, but were instead built on a foundation.? We know Dolley Madison got turbans from France, for example, and the Hampshire County Museums has one in their collection, pictured in Hats by Fiona Clark.? Of course, one still had to wrap the fabric before attaching it to the foundation. Ann Wass -Original Message- From: Saragrace Knauf [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thu, 7 Aug 2008 9:37 am Subject: Re: [h-cost] wrapping turbans [was:Curious about headdress - Arabic?] Oh, I am glad to hear there is more coming from the YWU article. I read it last night and didn't see anywhere to find instructions on how to wrap it. Sg Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2008 18:31:13 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] wrapping turbans [was:Curious about headdress - Arabic?] Lynn McMasters is working on a series of articles for the online publication Your Wardrobe Unlock'd about wrapping turbans for Regency wear. I don't have a subscription yet, so can't comment on the articles, but I saw Lynn over the weekend at Costume College (where she taught turban wrapping) wearing a huge turban, and it looked great. I was lame and didn't get a photo. I hope somebody did. http://yourwardrobeunlockd.com/ I'd like to point out that how an Arab and how a Sikh (the two cultures I can think of off the top of my head that commonly wear turbans) would wrap a turban is probably different. Sikh turbans for men are, to my knowledge, two layers and can be very large (for boys it's just the under turban; I don't know what it's really called). They also tend to be bulky towards the front of the head, where the top-knot of hair sits. I don't know anything about Arab turbans, but if you see a larger turban with a lot of forward bulk, you're probably looking at a Sikh (a steel bangle and certain styles of facial hair would also be a giveaway). Claudine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] walmart fabrics
In a message dated 8/7/2008 8:58:05 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: In keeping with our emphasis on being a store of the community, Wal- Mart is converting the fabrics and crafts department in some stores to a newly expanded assortment of merchandise that focuses on life's celebrations. We are thrilled to offer our customers this exciting new crafts and celebrations center that makes available craft and party planning needs along with information on current trends and new ideas in the area of life's celebrations, such as holidays, weddings and birthdays. Ah, that is what our newish store here inside the Washington DC beltway has. Things like gift bags and such. But it does sound like they aren't doing that in ALL their stores. Thanks for sharing. Ann Wass **Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? Read reviews on AOL Autos. (http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut000517 ) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] walmart fabrics
PS But at least you seem to have gotten a reasoned response. And I will be writing, too. Thanks again for letting us see that at least someone is paying attention. I was with a group of true believers last weekend, and, while we were all lamenting the disappearance of fabric stores, we agreed it is because folks aren't sewing anymore--which is just what Walmart told you. Ann Wass **Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? Read reviews on AOL Autos. (http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut000517 ) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] An interesting ethnic fabric
A friend sent me this link about a Jewish-Scottish tartan:? Have to send my husband's reaction to this--Loch Chaim! Ann Wass -Original Message- From: Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historic Costume List [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Fri, 18 Jul 2008 12:56 pm Subject: [h-cost] An interesting ethnic fabric A friend sent me this link about a Jewish-Scottish tartan:? ? http://www.forward.com/articles/13787/? ? And it's kosher!? ? --Robin? ? ___? h-costume mailing list? [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Headwear book suggestions
Cool! I was a fellow student with Susan when she did this research. Ann Wass **Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for FanHouse Fantasy Football today. (http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr000520) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] August 3 costume program in Pennsylvania
The Mid-Atlantic Region of the Costume Society of America invites you to spend A Sunday in Shippensburg Shippensburg Fashion Archives Museum, Shippensburg University, Shippensburg PA August 3 1:00 - 5:00 pm View the exhibit: “Garibaldis, Engageantes Cages: American Fashions of the Civil War Era 1840-1870” Take a behind-the-scenes tour with curator Dr. Karin Bohleke SPECIAL ADDED ATTRACTIONS: “Inside Information” about selected garments from the Fashion Archives by Patternmaker Martha McCain “Lounging Attire for the Victorian Gentleman: An Overview of Dressing Gowns, Smoking Caps and Slippers, c. 1850-1870 by Carolann Schmitt, Genteel Arts Academy Cost of the program, includes a donation to the museum and light refreshments: $10 for members of CSA, $5 for student members, $20 for non- members ***PLEASE NOTE: This venue is not wheelchair accessible*** For more information e-mail [EMAIL PROTECTED] or call 717-477-1239 To register, send check or money order payable to Costume Society of America to: Ann Wass, 5903 60th Ave., Riverdale MD 20737 by July 31. Please indicate any dietary restrictions and if there is anything special you would like to see in the “behind the scenes” tour. Ann Wass ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Patterns - free to good home
The University of Rhode Island has a pattern archive and might be interested in some of them.? They are to the point where they don't just take whole collections, but they will take ones that fill in holes in the collection.? Email me privately and I'll give you contact information.? But she will want a list. Ann Wass -Original Message- From: Cin [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: h-cost [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tue, 3 Jun 2008 6:41 pm Subject: [h-cost] Patterns - free to good home An entire grocery sack of vintage patterns (late 1950s to early 1980s) rescued from my elderly neighbor's basement awaits a good home with a loving family. Sounds like I'm trying to give away a kitten, but unlike a kitten these patterns wont eat much, make messes of your yarn or shread your drapes. Take 'em all; they're yours. Speak quickly or they're going to be posted on SanJoseFreeCycle. --cin Cynthia Barnes San Jose, Calif [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] How Many Costume Books/Magazines/Photos Do You
I didn't answer some of the questions on my last post. I don't have a room devoted--that is why I'm running out of room! Textiles/quilt books in the office/sewing room, on one shelf. Straight how-to sewing books in a small case on top of my pattern cabinet--only one drawer actually holds patterns, and I've been weeding them out. Other drawers hold utility fabrics, interfacings, and craft items. Then stacks of books wherever they will fit around the computer, mostly from the library, as I write my book. Upstairs, in our bedroom, two cases with costume books and one with miscellaneous histories on subjects like Lewis and Clark and plantation households. Another two cases with the Time-Life History Timeline series, old college texts, and other odd subjects. Finally, a tall skinny case in the corner of the guest bedroom with my Jane Austens and all my slides, organized in binders (Yes, I finally did get that done, as they sit their becoming obsolete.) Sewing machines--A wonderful Bernina I bought in 2000. A 1970s era Singer that was my husband's and I guess I pretty much wore out--after repeated trips to have it repaired, it still won't form a decent stitch. My Kenmore that I got for graduation in 1973. Finally, my mom's White Rotary that she bought used during the Depression, so not sure how old it is. It is in storage right now and needs a new plug. Oh, and a Pfaff serger that I got in 1992. What would I save in a fire? Probably have to grab my laptop first, before any books. Ann Wass Ann Wass **Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car listings at AOL Autos. (http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp0030002851) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] How Many Costume Books/Magazines/Photos Do You Own
In a message dated 4/25/2008 3:24:16 AM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: What was your most recent purchase? Most recently I replaced my Janet Arnold Patterns of Fashion 1560. I was stupid enough to lend my original copy to someone who was very careless and allowed it to be trashed. Good thing it was one you could easily replace! I don't let my books out, ever. Don't want to risk the loss of a long out-of-print book that would cost $100s to replace, if available. And, speaking of that, the most I ever spent for a book is the Ackermann's furniture one. Don't remember the title, as it lives at my office. Bought it used for about $300--a friend of mine was fortunate enough to get a copy in England many years ago, and I had to have one, too. First book I ever bought was Wilcox's Mode in Costume. Yes, I know now that it is terrible, but it was one of the few costume books in my high school library, and it really got me started. So, when I saw it for $10 in Florida, many years ago, I bought it. Still have it, too, for sentimental reasons. I've run out of room for books, so I'm being pretty good about new one in, old one out--passing on books on eras or topics I figure I'm pretty much done with--either to individuals who can use them, or to the Costume Society of America silent auction every year. Ann Wass **Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car listings at AOL Autos. (http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp0030002851) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] hammered silk? (was: On-line sale on silk and wool fabrics!)
In a message dated 4/15/2008 10:36:45 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: It's a shiny, lightweight silk, kinda like a charmeuse, except the surface looks as though it had a hammered metal finish. I have no clue what the base weave is. If it is shiny, it may very well be a satin weave. Ann Wass **It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms and advice on AOL Money Finance. (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolcmp0030002850) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] V-neck regency gown?
In a message dated 4/14/2008 5:54:01 AM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: A dancer in my group is making a v-neck regency gown and is using the La Mode Bagetelle pattern. Has anyone here seen this version made up? She has told me there is a huge overlap I don't have the pattern in front of me. The only V necks I can confirm on dresses of this period are made with what we now call a surplice wrap front, a variation of the apron front or low stomacher front gown. That is, the bodice pieces lap over and form a V, and then the skirt is tied on over. I don't believe LMB is cut as a true stomacher front, is it? Ann Wass **It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms and advice on AOL Money Finance. (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolcmp0030002850) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Help! Please! Cultural Dancers in Costumes
minuet, A couple of people have suggested minuet for that image, and that may be what the artist had in mind.? However, I don't believe a true minuet involved that kind of arm motion--it looks to me like an old version of the allamande from a longways country dance.? It seems reminiscent of an actual period image I've seen, but I can't put my finger on it. Ann Wass -Original Message- From: Suzanne [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sun, 6 Apr 2008 1:03 pm Subject: Re: [h-cost] Help! Please! Cultural Dancers in Costumes Oh, my. Tastes in art have certainly changed over the last 100 years... ;-) Here's my take on the countries: #1 - ancient Greece; #4 - Aztec; #5 - Bali (Indonesia?); #7 - Aboriginal Australia; #8 - North Africa; #14 - Hungary; #15 - Italy (Sicily?); #17 - Czech or Slovak (or Bohemian, if that's the term they used in the 1920s). I'd also add that #9 is of course *ancient* Egypt, and I'm not seeing Turkish in #11 but I don't know *what* it is [might be some strange version of India]. And #6 could be Swiss...? As far as as the dances go, my first reactions were: tango, waltz, minuet, schottische or polka. But I'm no expert -- and none of those are American-born so I don't know what the artist was getting at. Your photos did turn out well! It must have been frustrating working around all the people but you got some good images. Good luck with the titles, and let us know how it turns out. Suzanne On Apr 5, 2008, at 1:00 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: Penny Ladnier [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: April 5, 2008 4:17:48 AM CDT To: h-costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Help! Please! Cultural Dancers in Costumes Reply-To: Historical Costume h-costume@mail.indra.com I need help...please! I am so much out of my comfort zone. I have a slideshow online of the ballroom ceiling of the Ringling's Ca d'Zan Mansion in Sarasota, Florida. The ceiling is called Dancers of the World. There are 17 hand-painted medallions of cultural dancers. I need help with what countries and dances represented in the medallions. These were painted in the 1920s exclusively for the mansion by children's book illustrator / Broadway costume and set designer, William Andrew Willy Pogany. He was also a designer for the Zeigfeld Follies. He was friends with John and Mabel Ringling, the mansion's owner. He painted the medallions in his NYC studio and then applied them to the ballroom ceiling in Florida. I also need help with the photos 18-21. The curator said that these were titled Four Corners of American-born Dances. He told me that photos 18 19 dates represented but I can't recall the dances. I am not really sure that I have the dates correct for photos 20 21. And again, do not recall the dances. I had one hour to photograph the ballroom ceiling because I was running out of time and had to photograph around tour groups. This is a popular area of the mansion and is one of the first areas that the tour groups access. I didn't even have time to take notes. When I was photographing this room, I had a couple of hours before catching my flight home. I spent a week photographing other areas of the museum. Thankfully the photos turned out good. If you are able to answer my questions, please refer to the photo number on the slideshow headers in your answer. The slideshow can be seen at http://www.costumegallery.info/ . Please make sure to use .INFO and not .COM . When you go to the slideshow, make sure to click on the enlarged view...it looks like the number 7 on the right side of the menu. Many, many thanks in advance for your help. Penny Ladnier, Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites www.costumegallery.com www.costumelibrary.com www.costumeclassroom.com www.costumeencyclopedia.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Wright's FACTORY OUTLET - April sale and store closing
Arrrgggh One of my very favorite places to shop!? More fun than a candy store!? I used to make a detour to stop there if I was anywhere in the vicinity.? So, yes, anyone who lives in the area--go once, twice, as many times as you can before they close. Ann Wass -Original Message- From: Jeanine Swick [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Historic Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Fri, 28 Mar 2008 10:18 am Subject: [h-cost] Wright's FACTORY OUTLET - April sale and store closing For those of you in the area of Sturbridge, MA. Jeanine Last month to get cheap trim *From:* Joyce Parker [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] *Sent:* Thursday, March 27, 2008 12:48 PM *To:* Joyce Parker *Subject:* FACTORY OUTLET Faithful Customers and Friends: We are sorry to announce that the Factory Outlet will be closing. We do not have a definite date yet so we will continue as usual until a decision is made. We are happy to say we are going forward with our spring fabric sale and will include all store inventory in the sale. Yes, even the closeout merchandise. Imagine the savings! Better yet everything will be reduced by 25% at the register. We are also extending the time. The sale will continue through April 25^th *.** Remember April 1**^st ** -25**^th **, 25% off.* Post the flyer below on your frig to remind you. Joyce Parker Manager *FACTORY OUTLET * *OUR ANNUAL SPRING SALE BEGINS * *APRIL 1st * *IS SPECIAL * *_ALL STORE MERCHANDISE _* *25% OFF* NO FURTHER DISCOUNTS ALLOWED ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Baltimore Area Costume Event
Dear List Members: Those of you in the Mid-Atlantic region of the US may be interested in this event. Ann Wass A DAY AT MOUNT CLARE MUSEUM HOUSE Carroll Park, 1500 Washington Blvd., Baltimore MD 21230 Saturday, April 19 10:00 am - 3:30 pm Spend the morning viewing the exhibit in the museum house: It’s In the Details: Quality in Fashion-Clothing from the Carrolls to the Dames (1760-1917) Then adjourn to the carriage house for a box lunch and an afternoon of illustrated talks and workshops: Colleen Callahan, Costume and Textile Specialists Bustles, Bloomers Naked Elbows: Women’s Fads Fashions in the 19th Century Carolann Schmitt, Genteel Arts Academy hands-on workshop teaching cartridge pleating, fringe, and bows (materials provided) Ann Wass, Riversdale House Museum “'Fresh Assortment of Fine Goods':Shopping in Federal Baltimore Cost of the program, includes admission to the museum, lunch workshop kit: $30 members of CSA, the National Society of the Colonial Dames of America, or Friends of Mount Clare, $25 for student members of CSA, $35 for non-members For more information call 410-837-3262 or e-mail [EMAIL PROTECTED] (mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]) To register, make check or money payable to CSA Mid-Atlantic Region and MAIL TO: Debbie Farthing, 8210 Deerbrooke Ct., Pasadena MD 21122; must be received by April 16. Please indicate any dietary restrictions with your registration. **Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL Home. (http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15?ncid=aolhom000301) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What color is Bottle Green?
In a message dated 3/1/2008 5:01:49 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: When did aniline dyes become widespread? OT was set in the 1840's, so bottle green could/would have been duller than we're used to today, correct? The first aniline dye, mauve, was discovered in 1856. It was a few years before aniline greens hit the market. Before that, dyeing green was almost always at least a two-step process--dyeing with indigo blue and then overdyeing with a yellow (or vice versa). Since indigo is a vat dye, one can't just mix blue and yellow in a dye bath to get green. There was one natural green, lo-kao, imported from China by the mid-19th century, but it is a very vibrant bright green, not at all what one would use for men's wear. It was a novelty and mostly used to dye silk for women's dresses. Ann Wass **Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living. (http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/ 2050827?NCID=aolcmp0030002598) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What color is Bottle Green?
In a message dated 3/1/2008 3:26:05 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: And let's not forget about Scheele's Green and Emerald Green--Wikipedia lists them at 1775 and 1814 respectively. Neither one would have been very pleasant to encounter due to the arsenic content. Technically those are pigments, not dyes, but they were eventually used to color garments--you are correct. However, I think they were used to paint walls and color wallpapers before they were used to color garments. (Pigments require a binder to adhere to fabric, rather than being absorbed into the fabric--probably one reason whey the arsenical greens were the basis of horror stories about women wearing garments colored witht them.) Ann Wass **Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living. (http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/ 2050827?NCID=aolcmp0030002598) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What color is Bottle Green?
As dye formulas varied, I don't think you will find one definitive bottle green. But I'll check my Pantone book tomorrow to see if it has anything that I would think of as bottle green--which is dark and probably slightly grayed. Ann Wass **Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living. (http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/ 2050827?NCID=aolcmp0030002598) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Watch for this new series--Was: bad books
In a message dated 2/21/2008 11:11:06 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: However, I recall quite a few of those basic costume through history books on our library shelves that were printed I guess mainly for kids doing reports on a specific time period or someone doing a play. I am one of the authors for a series on American costume that Greenwood Publishing has commissioned. Their target market is primarily this sort of thing--reference books for public libraries and university libraries. However, I'm really being put through my paces to include as much primary resource material as I can, and also to provide what they call a rich reference list for those who want to delve further. I have tried to track down those stories for my period (Federal era--1785-1820) and, if I can't find an answer, I say so--a couple of times I've been frustrated that I have come up against a dead end for some of those things that have been floating around seemingly forever. Also, my first chapter is an overview of US history, and I've similarly found that even recent US history surveys get things wrong, or, at least, not exactly right. Alas, I can't tell you yet when the series will come out, but I'm confident that, when it does, the volumes will not be in the bad books category. Ann Wass **Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living. (http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/ 2050827?NCID=aolcmp0030002598) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] A good use for bad costume books (was: Finding Information)
Kohler Hey, Kohler has pictures of real garments (albeit displayed on live models), and also some decent drawings of patterns taken from them--I've used one of his early 19th century bodices as a guide. Ann Wass -Original Message- From: Frank A Thallas Jr [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: 'Historical Costume' [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 2:52 pm Subject: RE: [h-cost] A good use for bad costume books (was: Finding Information) I am the proud (?!?) owner of a copy of Ancient Costumes Of Great Britain and Ireland, by Charles Hamilton Smith, originally published in 1814. Maybe this is the source of the Druid sleeves on half the costumes offered on eBay But it's a nice big book and does good duty as a lap desk. :-P I seem to be collecting Bad Books. I also have Peacock, and Kohler, and a couple of volumes of Norris Liadain THL Liadain ni Mhordha OFO wildernesse, the Outlands http://www.flickr.com/photos/liadains_fancies ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] A good use for bad costume books
In a message dated 2/22/2008 4:44:29 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: The patterns are maybe better for the later periods; I don't know that material, so I can't judge. Oh, I see your point--I'm only interested in late 18th-early 19th century, and the patterns seem to be taken from the real garments pictured. Ann Wass **Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living. (http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/ 2050827?NCID=aolcmp0030002598) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Finding information
In a message dated 2/20/2008 4:50:32 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: The only thing I have thought of is to go to a library but than I wonder, where to begin digging deep into the collection to find original sources of info. The notes in secondary sources should send you to the primary sources, many of which you may have access to--see below. Your local university libary probably has its catalogue on-line. I, for example, live near the University of Maryland. If I find a primary source listed in a book, the first place I look is the Maryland card catalogue. It is absolutely amazing what is available there on microfilm. (Godey's Lady's Book and Peterson's magazine, for example, both great sources for the second half of the nineteenth century, should be available on microfilm--the only drawback is that they are in black and white, not color.) As was pointed out, you can usually walk in and use a university library, no questions asked. If you live near the institution from which you graduated, check on alumni privileges. Some allow members of the alumni association borrowing privileges. I splurge for the $150 Friends of the Library membership at Maryland because that also gets me inter-library loan privileges. I don't know how other state work, but, here in Maryland, if one has a public library card, one can access almost all the other libraries in the state and have books from those other libraries sent to your local one--again, you can do the hunting and the requesting on-line. This is probably not so useful for primary source material, but may help you find that sought-after out-of-print 20th century costume book. It's all about the hunt, you know--you just keep going and going. Ann Wass **Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living. (http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/ 2050827?NCID=aolcmp0030002598) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Job opening: asst. professor, costume design
In a message dated 2/11/2008 8:08:04 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I should note that UMSL has a brand-new brilliant performing arts center. I hope the consulted some costume designers when they built the costume shop--and didn't put it in the basement! Ann Wass **Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music. (http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp00300025 48) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Happy Dance for Linen
In a message dated 2/3/2008 11:25:28 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Considering the amount of flannel and double-knits I'd say that someone who had been working towards she who has the most fabric... is giving up. Double knits? Sounds more likely to me that she has gone on to her reward and her family has been cleaning out. Ann Wass **Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music. (http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp00300025 48) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] The costume I wore for my holiday...
In a message dated 1/17/2008 3:27:23 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I'm in Australia so I won''t be dropping round too soon :) Well, if you ever venture this way from the Antipodes, or know someone who is. . . . Ann Wass **Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp0030002489 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] The costume I wore for my holiday...
In a message dated 1/16/2008 5:09:10 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I must say the Green dress with the matching corset is also very nice. Is that an 1860 period gown? The lady sitting next to you also has a nice dress on, would a hoop be a suitable addition for it? I believe the green you refer to was an interpretation of 18th century, not mid-19th and what looks like a corset is her stomacher. Not sure which other dress you mean that could use a hoop. Almost everyone else was wearing early 19th century, so no hoops. Of course, for those who are more en bon point, as the Lady of Distinction said, our skirts are a little fuller and not so tubular looking. I wear a fairly narrow petticoat, but with a corded hem, under mine, similar to the one in Cunnington's History of Underwear. Riversdale, I should have said, is a Federal era house, built circa 1801-1807, and we primarily interpret the period prior to 1821, but we are flexible and welcome people dressed in other eras, even 21st century! We are in Riverdale Park, Maryland, in the suburbs of Washington, DC. If you are going to be in the area, please check us out. For more information, visit our website, _http://www.pgparks.com/places/eleganthistoric/riversdale_intro.html_ (http://www.pgparks.com/places/eleganthistoric/riversdale_intro.html) Thanks, all, for your interest. Ann Wass **Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp0030002489 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] The costume I wore for my holiday...
In a message dated 1/11/2008 9:15:36 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I know I would. The favor of a website, flickr page or smug mug link, is requested. Anyone brave enough to share? I recycled several outfits for this year's events. No pictures of my Christmas candlelight tour outfits, but you can see my evening dress at the Riversdale 12th Night Ball at: _http://www.WincingDevil.com/12thNight2008_ (http://www.WincingDevil.com/12thNight2008) I am in number 203732 in my silver and gold gown and turban. I made this about 10 years ago, but hadn't worn it in a while. The shawl was a new addition this year. Ann Wass **Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp0030002489 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Costume related Christmas gifts
In a message dated 12/31/2007 10:26:01 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: doubt it, the dance shops I've seen (admittedly this was about 5 years ago, but I doubt much has changed) only go up to a size 9 whereas I am a borderline size 10-11 (based on a day of touring nearly every shoe shop in the mall I probably need a 10.5 but anything above a size 10 was nearly impossible to find) I have no idea if Auditions will ship overseas, but you might check. They do carry large and wide sizes. Also, a specialty dance store could probably order you a larger size, but it might take a while to get them--my husband wears a man's 10 wide, and, when he took ballet in college, it took several weeks to get his special-ordered pair. In the meantime, he borrowed a pair his instructor had, that were white instead of black, which, as he said, made him look like Bugs Bunny! Ann Wass **See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop000304) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Costume related Christmas gifts
In a message dated 12/30/2007 8:12:55 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I was also going to get a pair of shoes I could use for costuming purposes (plain ballet flats work for most of the 1st half of the 19th century) but couldn't find any that fit properly. Elizabeth If you are in the US, try _www.auditions.com_ (http://www.auditions.com) . They have a plain ballet flat that comes in a number of colors and sizes. Ann Wass **See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop000304) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Costume related Christmas gifts
In a message dated 12/30/2007 8:12:55 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I was also going to get a pair of shoes I could use for costuming purposes (plain ballet flats work for most of the 1st half of the 19th century) but couldn't find any that fit properly. Elizabeth Whoops--sorry--just saw you AREN'T in the US! My bad. Can you make do with a pair of regular ballet slippers? I bought a pair at my local dance shop to get started with before I found the Auditions catalogue, which has a slightly more substantial style with a very small heel. Ann Wass **See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop000304) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Costume related Christmas gifts
In a message dated 12/26/2007 12:09:59 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: my husband bought me the top of the line Pfaff Creative Vision machine! And, a PS to my last post. You are very fortunate that you husband was evidently paying enough attention to know where to go to buy what you wanted. I've known men to buy sewing machines for their wives that were not really that great. (Not MY husband, though--he knew better!) Ann Wass **See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop000304) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Costume related Christmas gifts
In a message dated 12/26/2007 12:09:59 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: my husband bought me the top of the line Pfaff Creative Vision machine! That is indeed a great gift, and I'm sure you will enjoy the classes. I still get great enjoyment out of sitting down at my Bernina--7 years old, now--after years of making do with other machines. Ann Wass **See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop000304) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
