Re: [h-cost] Dating an image
Did you send a picture? If so, it probably wont come thru on this list. You'll need to provide a link if you want people to see anything. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Fri, Aug 26, 2016 at 11:14 AM, Hansen, Lia <lia.han...@vanguard.edu> wrote: > The piece was found in a midden on a military base in Southern California > and is from the 20th century. We're trying to narrow down the decade. > > > > Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Question for 1920s reenactors
Have a great time! Wish I was there, but I just did Costume College & it's a one-or-the-other choice. BTW, you'll love Richard's new Skittles Quadrilles. I really enjoyed being part of the dance team as he & Nick Enge were working on those. For the rest of you, if you ever need a full week of amazing historic dress & dine & dance: GO! --cin On Thu, Aug 4, 2016 at 10:28 AM, Katy Bishop <katybisho...@gmail.com> wrote: > Thanks for the shout out for Summer by the Sea Cin, only a few hours until > kick-off! > > On Thu, Aug 4, 2016 at 1:25 PM, Cin <cinbar...@gmail.com> wrote: > >> They're the same thing & used when waltz music gets absurdly fast at the >> turn of the previous century. This should get you started: >> http://www.libraryofdance.org/dances/ Search for the dance name & >> there's >> video. >> >> Most of the serious dance historians are off at this Vintage Dance week as >> of yesterday. >> http://www.vintagevictorian.com/2016summer-bythe-sea.html >> --cin > > > -- > Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian > katybisho...@gmail.comwww.VintageVictorian.com > Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era. > Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books. > ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Question for 1920s reenactors
They're the same thing & used when waltz music gets absurdly fast at the turn of the previous century. This should get you started: http://www.libraryofdance.org/dances/ Search for the dance name & there's video. Most of the serious dance historians are off at this Vintage Dance week as of yesterday. http://www.vintagevictorian.com/2016summer-bythe-sea.html --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Thu, Aug 4, 2016 at 10:10 AM, ruthan...@mindspring.com < ruthan...@mindspring.com> wrote: > Hello the list, after so long… > > Doing a play (“Camping with Henry and Tom”) where the character Henry Ford > refers to two dances: The Ripple and The Newport. A quick Google doesn’t > yiield anything. Did the playwright just make up these dance names, or were > they real dances around 1920? I’d very much like to hear from any reenactor > who has danced one or both, or even heard of one or both. > > Any help appreciated! > > —Ruth Anne Baumgartner > > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] An amazing sewing machine
What a beautiful sewing machine cabinet. Thanks for the link, --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Fri, Jul 15, 2016 at 8:09 AM, Marjorie Wilser <the3t...@gmail.com> wrote: > Brace yourselves. Mrs. General Tom Thumb had a sewing machine built to > scale! > > FWIW I’ve seen her tiny corset at the Ringling museum in Sarasota, > Florida. I doubt she made it herself, but it is tempting to hypothesize. > > http://americanhistory.si.edu/blog/yes-mrs-tom-thumb-had-sewing-machine > > ==Marjorie > > > > > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Roman experts?
I would ask people who do that sort of thing regularly. The best I know of, and I dont know if they do civilian impressions, is the Ermine Street Guard. http://www.erminestreetguard.co.uk/ --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Thu, Jul 14, 2016 at 11:35 PM, scourney <scour...@nwlink.com> wrote: > Hi, I'm looking at a job reproducing the clothes in a Pompeian fresco. I > think I've identified most of the clothing involved, but still have a > question on one thing. Any Ancient Roman experts out there? > The painting in question is the sale of the bread - > https://commons.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Sale_of_bread,_fresco_(from_Pompeii) > - I'm going with the seated man wearing a white toga over a white tunic and > the three in front wearing tunics and paenula of some dark color, but I > can't decide what the off white thing is. At first I thought cloak, cause > it looks like it is clasped on the shoulder, but it has that odd reddish > trim which almost looks like a hood. It looks too small to be a hood and > why the trim just in that spot? So I'm not sure what it is. > This is my first paying gig, so I want it to go well. > Thanks all, Susan Courney > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] RIP: Catherine Linda Walton
Thank you for letting us know. Please accept my condolences. Im so glad you were there for her. Best regards, --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Wed, Apr 13, 2016 at 5:44 AM, Kathryn Pinner <pinn...@mccc.edu> wrote: > I am sorry to hear this. Thank you for letting us know. I know the group > hasn't been as active lately, but I will miss her posts. > > Kate Pinner > > Costume & Scenic Design > > Tech. Coord., Kelsey Theatre, MCCC > > 609-570-3584 > > pinn...@mccc.edu > > > > > From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [h-costume-boun...@indra.com] on behalf > of Catherine Walton [catherine.wal...@cherryfield.me.uk] > Sent: Wednesday, April 13, 2016 4:10 AM > To: Historical Costume > Cc: chris.rowl...@cherryfield.me.uk > Subject: [h-cost] RIP: Catherine Linda Walton > > This is to let you know that my wife and member of this group Catherine > Linda Walton passed away on the 23rd March. Her funeral is on the 14th > April. > > The breast cancer, which she had about 30 years ago, came back and > spread. By the time we realised there was nothing that could be done > but keep her comfortable. > > She died at home, surrounded by her books, with me holding her hand. > > I know that she really enjoyed being on this group. Thank you and best > wishes to all of you. > > Regards, > > Chris Rowland - Catherine's husband. > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going?
Im still here, too. There's a 1913 evening gown on my dressmakers dummy that's destined for a NYE party if I can get 'er done. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Thu, Dec 17, 2015 at 10:03 AM, Catherine Olanich Raymond < ca...@thyrsus.com> wrote: > > > On 12/17/2015 12:36 PM, aqua...@patriot.net wrote: > >> You're welcome! >> >> I suppose people could say what they are working on. >> >> > I am in theory working on learning sprang so I can make myself a hair net > suitable for early period costume, but I haven't done anything since making > myself a sprang frame months ago. > > > > -- > Catherine Olanich Raymond > ca...@thyrsus.com > (610) 805-9542 > > "Tell me and I forget. Teach me and I remember. Involve me and I learn." > Benjamin Franklin > > > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] h-costume on facebook?
Yes, https://www.facebook.com/groups/gbacg/ and each Guild event often has it's own FB event announcement. --cin Cynthia Barnes On Sat, Aug 29, 2015 at 11:13 AM, Carol Kocian aqua...@patriot.net wrote: Does h-costume have a presence on facebook? Someone was just asking for an all-era sewing group, not just for patterns, not just for challenges, but a place to discuss and ask questions. Thanks! -Carol ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Work attire question, 1916-1920
The link works fine for me. I cannot answer about Boeing or about being around in the 1920s, but oddly I do have experience rib-stitching. My father restored 3 Piper Cubs and an Aeronca Champ, all vintage 40s airplanes that are rag-wings. Early planes have sewn fabric skins that are later coated with special paints. At minute 0:44 in the video, you can see ladies stitching the fabric to the ribs struts of the airplane wing. Each stitch catches the fabric to the wing structure to keep it from flapping and creates a smooth lightweight wing. At 1:15 in the video you see another lady tying a knot for a finished stitch. Each stitch is tied off is separate from the next. The process is pretty neat and tidy, and certainly could have been done in the clothing shown without any more mishap than a bit of dust. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Tue, Aug 18, 2015 at 9:28 AM, Franchesca Havas franchesca.ha...@gmail.com wrote: Greetings! In this short video we see seamstresses working on heavy canvas for airplane wings. The question that was asked today was if the attire worn by the seamstresses normal work attire or are they dressing up for the filming of their work. http://www.boeing.com/history/video-series/index.page#.VdNbytV1emk.mailto Videos@Boeing: Laying the fabric: The Boeing seamstresses Laying the fabric: The Boeing seamstresses Discover the role Boeing seamstresses played in the early days of company and the pioneering spirit they stitched in history in the first installment of “The Boeing Archives Presents. Thanks! :) Franchesca ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] anyone here
I'm still here too tho I admit to reading other more specific lists elsewhere. S, whatcha all working on presently? Sent with egregious spelling, random grammar creative orthography from Siri I in Hawaii. --cin On Jan 14, 2015, at 9:46 PM, Wanda pease wan...@hevanet.com wrote: Here among the lonely. Regina Romsey Sent from my iPad On Jan 14, 2015, at 11:29 AM, Robert Pabinquit concertmast...@yahoo.com wrote: I still read the posts. As someone who makes clothing for Renaissance casts there have been many times these posts have come through with a detail I needed. Especially when a painting was posted or a site was shared. Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Barge's cement
Real Barge cement while very awesome is highly toxic containing xylene, methel ethyl keytone, tolulene and tolulene among other brain rotting carcinogens. Wear a respirator. A really good one and go outside. Please avoid that stuff as I actually like you and would prefer to keep you around. If you need the flexibility and less of the last-forever, why not try something less deadly like Locktight flexible glue for vinyl plastic fabric? So much less deadly! Call me, we'll talk. --cin Sent with creative orthography, egregious spelling randomized grammar from my cell. On Aug 31, 2014 11:34 PM, Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com wrote: So I have a repair project which is only marginally costume-y. However. It is a cheapie modern trunk made to look old with vinyl trim. The trim is stitched and then glued down. Yeah. Right. But it's coming up all over and looks horrible. I still like the little trunk and want to make it shipshape again. In examining the offerings on Amazon, I find (link below) http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Dapsfield-keywords=barge%27s+cement Too many packages to make an intelligent choice from. All claim to be Barge's cement. So, users of Barge's for shoemaking and other wonders-- which is my best bet, please? Many thanks! ==Marjorie Wilser ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Regency era evening gloves
Julie, You did not say whether your ensemble was for an evening dance event or not. My particular interest is clothing accessories suitable for dance. In this specific case, I have over 100 period images of ball gowns depicted with white gloves to the elbow or higher. There is exactly 1 image that I can find which is non-white. Many other images show the lady in her gown without gloves at all. Some images are tiny and the detail might have been omitted for clarity. Some images are for instruction purposes where showing gloves might obscure the pose of the hand. Still other images are fashion plates where the lady is often in the last stages of dressing so might not yet have put on her gloves. If you're not dancing, then I have no useful info for you, except that the era was crazy for gloves. You could hunt up the Beau Brummel piece on correct gloves for gentlemen, but he was a bit, um, excessive, shall we say? --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Sun, Jul 6, 2014 at 1:35 PM, humbugfo...@att.net wrote: I am making a Regency evening gown for a friend. It consists of a black lace overdress with a slate blue lining. I'm uncertain as to what color gloves should be worn with this color ensemble/ I think white gloves against the black and slate blue would look garish, and black gloves would look too much like mourning wear, which it is not. What would they have worn in Regency times? Thanks, Julie ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Brim wire!
http://www.alteryears.net/ See you in July? I'm heading to CoCo. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Thu, May 8, 2014 at 5:45 PM, Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com wrote: I'm looking for brim wire and not having a whole lotta luck. Sources, anybody? The best I can find so far is Farthingales in Canada slower and with duty. I'm in the US. A millinery company wants a minimum order of $76-- their low price. Right. I looked for Janet Wilson Anderson's Raiments/ AlterYears but can't find a presence on the web?? I need 3 yd minimum, with crimpers/joiners for ends. Thanks, List! ==Marjorie ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?
The heads, Anne, Catherine, Charles the new guy, are wearing: * Most of a c1817 bonnet for the GBACG Tallships event next month. It's a fat stripe silk in cream tan with a soft turnback brim that shouldnt catch too much air when on the bow of the ship. Bonnet will have fat lappets bows that will soon have deep red edging. * Most of a c1804 straw bonnet that needs the white lappets with embroidered cherries to be applied. * An 1890s straw hat. * A 1490-1510 pointed bonnet (modernly, a hood) of silver satin trimmed with a cloth of mylar frontlet worn over a pointed gable-style paste. Needs a matching gown. The dummies: Euphrosnia wears a velvet skirt that needs a waistband. Aglaia has on the bodice section of a 16th c boned kirtle in red satin taffeta. (The skirt portion is on the table.) Adonis sports a hip-length fur jacket lining of grey astrakhan-style lamb's wool while I contemplate what to do with it. (If the fur was black I'd call it budge and get all Tudor with it.) Quilts: Five of them, tho the current work in progress is using treasured pieces given to me by my mom's best pal, Esther. Her great-grandmother made the squares using fabrics from 1840-70. (The GGM died in 1916.) I'm finishing the quilt plan to gift it to her when it's done. It's going to be a great little sampler of fabrics that were available in Virgina in those years. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Tue, Sep 10, 2013 at 11:20 AM, annbw...@aol.com wrote: She should be wearing a red Regency-era ballgown that I need to finish by the end of the month--it is in pieces, and I need to finish the bodice and try the skirt for length. It's a new pattern, so I'm not sure how much hem I will have. And, not on my dummy, but also in progress, a turban to match that gown. This is also a sample for the turban workshop I'll be giving at the Gadsby's Tavern costume symposium in Alexandria, VA, on Sept. 27. Ann Wass -Original Message- From: Cin cinbar...@gmail.com To: H-costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Tue, Sep 10, 2013 1:01 pm Subject: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today? It's been forever since I asked my seasonal question, so here it is: It's that time of year when the calendar is full of holiday parties, winter balls, gift-making excuses, company dinners, Dickens Fair, theater season, New Years Eve, cocktail parties, and 12th Night. You might even be planning a sojourn to a balmy tropical locale. Whatever the reason, h-costumers are probably making something. So, what's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today? --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com PS. It's ok to run into the sewing room, toss something marvelous on the dummy and *then* tell us about it. It's also ok to tell what's in your design sketchbook, on the worktable, in the quilt frame, at the sewing machine or in the embroidery hoop. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?
It's been forever since I asked my seasonal question, so here it is: It's that time of year when the calendar is full of holiday parties, winter balls, gift-making excuses, company dinners, Dickens Fair, theater season, New Years Eve, cocktail parties, and 12th Night. You might even be planning a sojourn to a balmy tropical locale. Whatever the reason, h-costumers are probably making something. So, what's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today? --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com PS. It's ok to run into the sewing room, toss something marvelous on the dummy and *then* tell us about it. It's also ok to tell what's in your design sketchbook, on the worktable, in the quilt frame, at the sewing machine or in the embroidery hoop. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Victorian hat terminology
Lena, Names of hats changed alot in the '80s '90s. Sometimes the latest fashionable name was applied to a different style. (Funny. that still happens today!) I'd have your friend look into store catalogs for the period place social milieu she's interested in. Catalogs are useful in that they match up a style name with a picture and a price-point. Here in California, that would probably be Weinstocks of Sacramento (1890s). On the east coast perhaps a middle class Sears catalog (if they sold fashions in '93 and onward) or an uppercrust fashion mag like Harper's Bazaar. You'll know your local London Oxford shops better than I ever could, so I'll leave you to that. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Wed, Jul 24, 2013 at 6:19 AM, Lena lenast...@yahoo.com wrote: Dear all, I was asked by a friend about the correct name for a hat type worn by women in late 19th century England. And while I do historical costuming, the 19th century is really not my thing, so I thought I would ask the experts here. She described it as a small top hat, bigger and flatter than the miniature top hats you see in steampunk garb, often swathed in ribbon and tulle. Picture examples: - http://100megspop3.com/adira/victoria/1882estacaoa.jpg, the one on the far left, though that may be a mutant bonnet. - http://100megspop3.com/adira/victoria/1884myraa.jpg, on the right. That's bigger and less frouffy (technical term :-) ) than I was thinking of. - http://100megspop3.com/adira/victoria/1881estacaob.jpg , the middle hat, which makes me think that maybe what I'm seeing is a small bonnet worn on top of the head? Is there a common name for this type of hat? Or are there several different ones depending on minute details in appearance and/or construction, alternatively no specific name at all? With thanks, Lena (mostly lurking) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] chiffon and Astrida's book
A note of caution: Rinsing out the starch may also rinse out the finish of your organza making it limp or less shiny. Test first. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Sat, Jun 29, 2013 at 6:16 PM, Lauren Walker lauren.wal...@comcast.net wrote: Thanks -- I was wondering how to stabilize it. Starch is a good suggestion. Lauren M. Walker lauren.wal...@comcast.net On Jun 29, 2013, at 3:39 PM, Sharon Collier wrote: Do you starch your chiffon before working with it? That may help and after it's pleated and the pleats are tacked down, you can rinse out the starch. Sharon C. -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Lauren Walker Sent: Saturday, June 29, 2013 9:08 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] chiffon and Astrida's book Oh, dear. I was just going to check in to complain that if I EVER finish the current project it's going to be YEARS before I work with chiffon in 1/12th scale again, and here I see Astrida has a whole book on how to really *do* these embellishments where I've been winging it. I'm torn between buying a copy now and waiting until I'm done with the doll project so I don't feel I have to tear everything apart and start over. I mean, I did just pause to go order the book, because books always win. But I'm just about to do the accordion pleats (Godey's calls them accordion pleats) for the skirt on the gown on the left here: http://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=mdp.39015004176890;view=1up;seq=511 for the tiny Grodnerthal doll (I've got the bodice done although there are things with which I'm not satisfied so it might get done over--the pleating ended up not crossing above the belt, and I'm not sure I can stand it) and I'm not sure whether it would help or not to know what I am doing! Anyway I'm looking forward to my copy of the book! And to moving on to the fourth and last outfit in the doll project, which is the one on the right in this plate: http://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=mdp.39015004176882;view=1up;seq=109 which I'm working in a striped cotton and a sheer wool challis. Which will have their own problems, but will at least not be this insanely delicate chiffon. By the way, Godey's calls the hat a flat leghorn -- looking at some other hats from the late 1880s, some did not have crowns, or the crown was filled in with the scarf material. Would any of you hazard a guess about this particular hat? Thanks! I'm going to be so happy to go back to human-sized 18th-century wools and linens. Fabrics you can't hurt even with a blowtorch and a hammer! Lauren Lauren M. Walker lauren.wal...@comcast.net On Jun 17, 2013, at 3:39 PM, Terry wrote: I'm so excited to say that I just received Astrida Schaeffer's book Embellishments: Constructing Victorian Detail. I mean I JUST got it (5 minutes ago), so I've only had time to thumb through it, but it looks beautiful. Can't wait to read it! Terry Walker ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Astrida's Book
On Tue, Jun 25, 2013 at 2:24 PM, Astrida Schaeffer astr...@schaefferarts.com wrote: Oh, and the coat is going to be on Wardrobe Unlock'd in August! On Jun 19, 2013, at 1:18 PM, Cin cinbar...@gmail.com wrote: Mine arrived yesterday it's a lovely review of the best techniques for the period. I'm completely in love with the Deco wool coat with the crazy-wide lapels. Do I want a pattern? Absolutely! Thrilling news. It's truly lovely and marvelously dramatic. What fun. Looking forward to seeing a croquis of the pattern. That'd be enough for me to figure it out. Can you point us at other photos from the exhibit? There's a teal item in the background of one of the show pics, a waist I'd like to see more of. On Tue, Jun 25, 2013 at 2:23 PM, Astrida Schaeffer astr...@schaefferarts.com wrote: Hmmm, a teal waist... is it the one with lots of vertical pleats? and the Grecian key detail at the neckline? Yes, I think that's it. Page 109, bottom photo, far right. There are some exhibition photos on my schaefferarts website but pretty much what's already in the book. I can try to PM you some pics since I don't think I can post them to the group? You are correct. We cant post to h-costume's photo page. Stupid spammers spoiled our fun. I'm trying to figure out what that waist is made of, how it closes, what sort of interior structure it has, that sort of thing. Velvet ribbon applied onto organdy (surely not)? Seersucker of some sort? Woven velvet stripes? Thanks much for all your help, --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Astrida's Book
Mine arrived yesterday it's a lovely review of the best techniques for the period. I'm completely in love with the Deco wool coat with the crazy-wide lapels. Do I want a pattern? Absolutely! Can you point us at other photos from the exhibit? There's a teal item in the background of one of the show pics, a waist I'd like to see more of. Thank you Astrida good job! --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Wed, Jun 19, 2013 at 6:00 AM, Astrida Schaeffer astr...@schaefferarts.com wrote: Thanks, everyone! It's a bit surreal to finally be holding it in my hands. This has been a while in the making! Astrida On Jun 17, 2013, at 5:29 PM, Emily Gilbert emchantm...@gmail.com wrote: I got mine today too, and it looks gorgeous! Thanks, Astrida! Emily On 6/17/2013 2:39 PM, Terry wrote: I'm so excited to say that I just received Astrida Schaeffer's book Embellishments: Constructing Victorian Detail. I mean I JUST got it (5 minutes ago), so I've only had time to thumb through it, but it looks beautiful. Can't wait to read it! Terry Walker ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume . ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Egyptian Textile Museum photos
Costumers, A friend sent me this FB link to pics posted by the Egyptian Textile Museum. While this isnt normally my thing, many of the photos of their items were very interesting. (Some tho, look familiar might be from Egyptian Coptic items in other collections.) http://www.facebook.com/EgyptianTextileMuseum --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] what is everyone working on?
I'm woefully under-inspired by my half-completed ragtime ballgown. So under-inspired that I have my nose in the Cosimo di Medici book (Moda Italia #2). Glad of a change of topic, --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com At 11:19 31/03/2013, you wrote: Now, on to the historical costuming side and not Fran's over inflated ego, what is everyone working on? Anyone else doing the Historical Fortnightly? -Isabella ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Terms for men's pants
Modernly, you are correct. My grandmother was fond of asking if I'd gotten my knickers in a twist if I was angry about something. This often happened if I was being sent to my room for beating up a younger sibling. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Wed, Mar 20, 2013 at 11:38 AM, Julie jtknit...@gmail.com wrote: I thought knickers referred to underwear. Julie Last Sunday, a friend came to a Steampunk St. Patty's Day party sporting knickers. I am in the habit of calling them knee-breeches from my RevWar days. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Terms for men's pants
On Wed, Mar 20, 2013 at 12:16 PM, Sybella mae...@gmail.com wrote: In the '80s people called pants that ended just below the knee knickers. Assuming you mean 1980s: I recall Capri pants for women,not knickers. Before that, they were peddle pushers. And I think there's at least one other name for them. Knee highs, maybe? It seems every time they come back into fashion, they are called something else. Probably, pedal-pushers as that what my mom called the things they went bicycling in in the 1950s. Also, Knickers strikes me as something an early 20th c golfer or upperclass sport hunter (male) might wear. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Terms for pants
*giggle* Oh, yeah, I remember that, again, it was my mother's era to say *snigger* clam-diggers. I never did. I was too sophisticate a teenager in the 70s for that sort of thing. (Yeah, we're from Virginia, too, tho the Northern part.) --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Wed, Mar 20, 2013 at 2:51 PM, Sybella mae...@gmail.com wrote: LOL! I'm laughing my butt off over here. 'Bella On Wed, Mar 20, 2013 at 2:42 PM, Kathryn Pinner pinn...@mccc.edu wrote: Another name, at least in southeast Virginia, was 'clam diggers'. Kate Pinner Costume Scenic Design ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Terms for pants
*giggle* My husband had a similar issue with an English loan-word in Toyko. In Japan, many items, not just clothing, of Western origin have Japanese-ified names. For example, aparto is apartment, and co-hee is coffee. My spouse asked the concierge at one hotel desk if they could have his pant-su ironed. Unfortunately, as in the UK, he didnt mean *that*. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Wed, Mar 20, 2013 at 7:12 PM, Beteena Paradise bete...@mostlymedieval.com wrote: We recently moved back to the US after living in the UK for five years. While there, I never got used to the word pants meaning underwear. It was very embarrassing when we went into a Starbucks out of a downpour where the water had come up to my ankles. I turned with disgust to my husband and said, My pants are soaking wet!! Several people turned my way and just stared. I said, Trousers! I meant trousers! but it was too late. ;-) LOL Teena ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?
Appalling combos on most of mine: Euphrosnia: 1830s bodice of giant cabbage roses (a repro of an 1835 calico in the Smithsonian). She this bodice over a huge pointy silly chemisette waiting to be marked for the drawstring waist ties. She wears this over an 1860s hoop and and an 1861 skirt waiting to be marked for a hem. Aglaia: 1912 winter dance frock in deep burgundy with small geometric patterns. She's oping someone will come along and finish the sheer chiffon kimono sleeves and finally attach that velvet waist so it can be done. Her neck stub sports a 1920s cloche in bubblegum pink light grey silk satin with a propeller bow as trim. Adonis: a large vintage passementerie of glass jet probably from an 1890s cloak. Needs repair. Anne, Katherine (2 of the heads) are wearing an 1912 feathered headdress as worn the Last Dinner on the Titanic event this year, and a charming 1940s black wool felt hat found at the San Jose Historical Museum yard sale this summer. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Tue, Nov 13, 2012 at 10:59 AM, annbw...@aol.com wrote: Alas, nothing right now, except a couple of my husband's suits to mend (he started a day job again this week.) I'm trying to write instead of sew, but that is slow going, too. Ann Wass -Original Message- From: Cin cinbar...@gmail.com To: H-costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Tue, Nov 13, 2012 1:52 pm Subject: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today? It's that time of year: holiday parties, winter balls, theater season, company dinners, Dickens Fair, New Years Eve, cocktail parties,12th Night. You might even be planning a sojourn to a balmy tropical locale. Whatever the reason, h-costumers are probably making (or re-making) something. So, what's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today? --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com PS. It's ok to run into the sewing room, toss something marvelous on the dummy and *then* tell us about it. It's also ok to tell what's on your design sketchbook, worktable, at the sewing machine or even in the embroidery hoop. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?
... and Charles, another head, is wearing a mostly-done 1940s navy blue silk satin and and navy wool hat from the Vogue retro series. It needs the edge binding and fabric roses attached. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com -Original Message- Subject: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today? It's that time of year: holiday parties, winter balls, theater season, company dinners, Dickens Fair, New Years Eve, cocktail parties,12th Night. You might even be planning a sojourn to a balmy tropical locale. Whatever the reason, h-costumers are probably making (or re-making) something. So, what's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today? --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com PS. It's ok to run into the sewing room, toss something marvelous on the dummy and *then* tell us about it. It's also ok to tell what's on your design sketchbook, worktable, at the sewing machine or even in the embroidery hoop. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Mystery for experienced Sempsters
On Wed, Oct 10, 2012 at 9:21 AM, Julie jtknit...@gmail.com wrote: I guess all you can do now is line it. (With fabrics that don't hold their shape, interfacing corrects that but now that you've put the dress together, that would be a bear. **It *is* lined. Maybe if I'd interlined it? Interlining is for warmth is unusual in anything but coats jackets. Interfacing is for strength, shaping structural support. Does the stretch occur in crossgrain direction? **no. Bodice is cut straight grain and grows around the body. Actually from your description (what I heard you say is that the straight grain runs vertical), the garment *is* growing on the cross. This is normal to a small degree. On grain the weave is tight because of the weaving direction; the warp is tight on the loom. If fabrics are going to grow as you describe, it's usually on cross grain. Quilt fabrics are not supposed to do this. That's why we pony up the extra cost... to get the tighter weaves that dont grow. (Yes, I'm a mad quilter, too.) Is your model wearing period unmentionables **no. She's young enough that the boned bodice is enough...no bra. In this we will disagree. I'm probably skinny enough to pull this off, too, but I'd still wear the proper unmentionables for shape, structure fashion... and maybe because I'm a bit of a costume snob. For your debugging purposes, however, I'd suggest the corsetry for repeatability. Many women, young old, change size monthly, seasonally or at random. The corset, tightened to a known amount at B,W H will give you a better target to fit to next time 'round. Also, IMHO, the Joann's quilting fabrics on the bargain wall are not particularly high quality. **These were the good quilting fabrics. That's why I'm so mystified ticked. I didn't cheap out (but only because we didn't find anything we liked on sale.) Julie If you're sure the fabric is to blame not the pre-treatment or assembly process, then take it back complain to the vendor. Tell us who the fabric manufacturer is so we can all direct our ire appropriately. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Question for experienced sempsters
... Those are all good Qs, too and... are you *SURE* it's not a stretch fabric? Many are stealth-stretch like stretch velour, stretch demin. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Tue, Oct 9, 2012 at 11:12 AM, Nadine Pelikan nadine...@yahoo.com wrote: --- Everything that Cin asked and... Which pattern did you use? Is the stretching only in the bodice? Did you flat line the bodice? Did you pipe the neckline, arm holes and waist? Is the fabric a print or a woven plaid? Did you make sure that you were on the straight of grain before you cut out the pieces? Nadine Pelikan On Mon, Oct 8, 2012 at 11:47 AM, Julie jtknit...@gmail.com wrote: I have a mystery that I'd like some insight on. I've spoken in person to all the costumers I know and all are baffled. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Question for experienced sempsters
Some things to think about for your debugging: Did you put in all the facings, linings interfacings required? Did you pre-shrink your cottons with hot water and then in the dryer on zorch? Does the stretch occur in crossgrain direction? Is your model wearing period unmentionables and, if corsetting, is she corseting to the same dimensions each time? Got pictures inside out? Also, IMHO, the Joann's quilting fabrics on the bargain wall are not particularly high quality. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Mon, Oct 8, 2012 at 11:47 AM, Julie jtknit...@gmail.com wrote: I have a mystery that I'd like some insight on. I've spoken in person to all the costumers I know and all are baffled. I made a dress for my daughter from decent quilting cottons from Joanne's. It has a tight fitted bodice with boning. The dress stretched so I took it in. It stretched some more so I put elastic in key areas. It stretched some more. Yesterday just for giggles I tried it on. It fits. I'm substantially larger than my daughter (maybe 2 sizes). What the heck? The dress will fit her immediately after washing drying but begins stretching back out within an hour or so. Does anyone have any ideas? The fabric was washed dried before I cut it out. This is very discouraging. I worked hard to make it fit her just right. Now it looks like I'm a lousy sempster. But at least I guess I get a dress out of it. Julie ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Kenmore
Thanks all for helping with my machine choice. Buying the top levels of any major brand, is a wise tho pricey move for the serious costumer (or textile person). I just opted for the Bernina 550 and now have a my old Viking 1+ as my backup machine. One specializes in machine quilting (great for smallish areas) and the latter specializes in embroidery. Both are made in Europe, rather than China where cheap is the watch-word. I chose based on reliability features not present in my other machine. The Viking wouldn't have been replaced if not for the fact that some of the wavemounted connectors on the motherboard and video controller had vibrated loose over the 15 yrs of moderately heavy use developed shorts. My electrical-engr husband debugged resoldered them saving me $600+ in repairs. (The repair shop guy was going to replace the boards, rather than do the inexpensive repair.) For those with gobs more money lots of space, I've just gotten started with the full size CNC controlled HandiStitcher quilting machine at TechShop (www.techshop.ws) which can handle quilts as wide as 120. Wow, what fun! I'm hoping for a few quilted petticoats in my future. Happy machine shopping to the rest of you, --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Advice on new sewing machine
Good recommendation, tho' I'd add that if you can wait, there's usually a 29% sale at the end of Aug every year 'most anything in the store, including the Bernina machines. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Sun, Sep 2, 2012 at 5:41 PM, Sharon Collier sha...@collierfam.com wrote: My daughter just got a new machine. We went to Eddie's Quilting Bee in Mt. View, CA. She told them what she wanted and they steered her to a great machine. Maybe contact them and ask for advice, or if you are close enough, visit. Sharon C. -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Lavolta Press Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2012 3:52 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] Advice on new sewing machine I do not want a serger, or an embroidery machine. I want a machine with the following features: * Metal body * Durability * Infrequent need for service * Not quirky * Really good straight stitch * Zigzag capability * Easy buttonholes * Ability to sew both light and heavy fabrics easily, including crossing seams * Free arm or narrow bed? so I can sew sleeves easily * Probably the ability to lower the feed dogs * Mechanical machine, except I'm confused about the term. Even the mechanical machines (new not vintage) clearly have some computerization * A machine that doesn't try to make my decisions for me! * Probably a new machine, since I don't want to inherit someone else's problems and want to be able to get parts easily * Good track records. I have bought two expensive machines (over time) that were supposedly good machines from reputable manufacturers, yet they turned out to be a chronic PITA I am considering the Bernina 1008, since as far as I can tell the 1015 is no longer made. But clearly other manufacturers are also making mechanical machines. Thanks for any advice. Fran Lavolta Press Books of historic patterns www.lavoltapress.com www.facebook.com/LavoltaPress ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Techshop quilting, etc
You're right, that's pretty much the charm of the place, that it's a clubhouse for powertool users. I can be found at San Jose Menlo Park Techshops. They're planning on expanding countrywide, including Raleigh-Durham Austin, I think. Look for one in/near Crystal City (Wash DC area) in Feb 2013. (FWIW, in the spirit of full disclosure, I do have had a business relationship with them for 6 years.) --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Mon, Sep 3, 2012 at 11:27 AM, Beteena Paradise bete...@mostlymedieval.com wrote: Wow what a great place! Too bad they don't have one in Florida. It would be a great place to try out certain crafts (like woodworking) without having to buy all of the equipment. Teena From: Cin cinbar...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Monday, September 3, 2012 1:38 PM snip For those with gobs more money lots of space, I've just gotten started with the full size CNC controlled HandiStitcher quilting machine at TechShop (http://www.techshop.ws/) which can handle quilts as wide as 120. Wow, what fun! I'm hoping for a few quilted petticoats in my future. Happy machine shopping to the rest of you, --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Techshop quilting, etc
Stained glass, shining up brass, restoring old furniture, vintage cars, metal casting... and playing with the plasma cutter just because you can. In a costume focus, you can also powder coat costume bits, laser etch or cut pieces. You might deposit a very fine layer of sliver or gold on your pewter buttons from Tudor Tailor. There's a gal at the SJ who used the laser cutter on a poly knit fabric to make leaves for an evening gown. As it did the cuts the edges fused slightly making a tidy edge. The laser cutter at SJ can cut up to 10 layers of dress or quilt weight cotton at a time. I'd be pleased to give a tour of either SJ or Menlo Techshop to any of you. LMK, --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Mon, Sep 3, 2012 at 11:53 AM, Beteena Paradise bete...@mostlymedieval.com wrote: They had the Austin and Raleigh ones listed on the website. Hopefully, they will venture down into central Florida. I bookmarked their website so I'll check back every once in a while. :) I can think of so many crafts that I could try there without having to waste money on equipment I may not use: woodworking, jewelry casting, big sewing jobs, etc. Teena ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] sewing machines
Actually, Babylock is Japanese made in Japan. I love mine. It's a very high quality machine. Not all of Asia is the same bargain basement manufacturing center. In many cases, the low end models of brands are designed in their home countries and manufactured in China Thailand. The high end models are still made in those countries. This is definitely the case with the high end stuff. The Bernina embroiderers quilters are still made in Switzerland (at roughly the $5000 sale price and up). OMG are they wonderful, but you'll pay a pretty price. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Wed, Aug 15, 2012 at 6:55 AM, Kim Baird kba...@cableone.net wrote: SERGERS These are all made in factories in Asia. The companies (Juki, Baby Lock, Bernina, Pfaff) design them, but don't manufacture them. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Amster Amster dam dam dam
Speaking of business travel, I have to go to Amsterdam for a trade show. Frustratingly, the endless Rijksmuseum renovation is still not complete. Are there any other places in around town that might please a historical costumer? Thanks, all! --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] historical costume books
At your local costume junkies' yard sale you'll find a ready audience of like-minded individuals. If you live in Silicon Valley, I'd suggest the upcoming GBACG yard sale. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Tue, Jul 24, 2012 at 1:29 PM, Sharon Zakhour sfsh...@gmail.com wrote: I have been a long time lurker on this forum. :) I need to raise some money and want to sell off some historical costuming books. Other than ebay, is there a good place to sell books of this type? Thanks. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What is a Whip?
Isnt the whip the driver of the coach? The others sound like his friends. What a fun question! --cin On Wed, Jun 27, 2012 at 9:41 PM, penn...@costumegallery.com wrote: I am working with a 1914 etiquette book and a person titled Whip is used in the section about Dress When Driving. What / Who is a Whip in this context? Men who are guests on a coach wear morning or afternoon dress according to the hour of the day on which the vehicle makes its start. The whip, if the host of the occasion, is usually arrayed in distinctive costume. A gray suit is the usual selection for spring and summer, brown is a frequent choice for the autumn.. In the country, and in summer, a gentleman whip wears a light colored and light-weight suit, with brown shoes and gloves and a straw or panama hat. For touring, or driving an automobile.No ceremonious costume for men has yet been evolved to approximate, in style and completeness, the formal dress an amateur whip wears. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Help - shredding silk :((
I've tried that but it bubbled - because the thickness of the threads under the embroidered flowers prevents it from sticking at that point. Since the fusible I/F was too stiff gluey, can you whip stiitch a organza protective layer over the interior to protect it? I've just done this for a brocade with long throws on the back. The silk organza basted over the long throws prevents snags pulls. It's working just great. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?
It's that time of year: spring parties, summer balls, summer theater season, LARPs, historic recreation events, costume conventions fandom. You might even be planning a sojourn to a balmy tropical locale or a historic site. Whatever the reason, h-costumers are probably making something. So, what's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today? --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com PS. It's ok to run into the sewing room, toss something marvelous on the dummy and *then* tell us about it. It's also ok to tell what's in your design sketchbook, on the worktable, at the sewing machine or in the embroidery hoop. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?
Euphrosnia is wearing a 1913 evening gown in burgundy silks with brocaded borders velvet trim. Aglaia, the newest member of the household, has been wearing her very first costume. At the moment it's just a few parts of a Regency era ball gown as the bodice skirt are being gathered pinned on the sewing table. Adonis, the male dummy is, as all Adonis' should be, rather nude. Anne Catherine, the disembodied heads, are in a suitcase waiting to go into a display of vintage 20s hats tomorrow. They'll be showing items in a delightful collection of vintage clothes owned by neighbors friends at a Speakeasy Open House in my historic neighborhood. http://www.hanchettpark.org/index_files/Page332.htm Charles, the 3rd head seems to have disappeared. If found he'll go, too. You are all welcome in 20s costume or otherwise. --cin On Fri, May 18, 2012 at 4:06 PM, Vicki Betts vbe...@gower.net wrote: As soon as I get one more research project finished and emailed I'll be tackling a 1918 dress based on Folkwear's Armistice blouse, only with 3/4 sleeves. Probably three wide tucks in the skirt. Draped across my dressmaker's dummy is a piece of green lawn with ecru and dark brown stylized vines running lengthwise, a modern white linen table runner with drawn thread design that I'll be cutting up for the collar, a wonderful vintage faux mother of pearl pass through oval buckle about four inches tall and 1 1/2 inches wide for which I'll make a self-fabric belt, a piece of ecru silk georgette to cover a broad brimmed hat), and various trims to try once the hat is made. I can't decide on feathers or flowers. Ecru shoes with double faux buttoned straps are on order. Not sure of proper stockings. Vicki Betts ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Thread- reluctant switcher needs suggestions
In cottons cotton poly, I like Meineke (whatever the spelling) and Guterman best. I, too, sneer at the shreddy CC thread. In silks, I prefer Earth Bell, tho I've never seen it in the US. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Thu, May 17, 2012 at 8:11 AM, Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com wrote: My favorite thread has been discontinued without so much as a peep. I am preternaturally p.o'd at the venerable Coats Clark, but now I need to switch threads. My old favorite was the sometimes deingrated Coats Clark cotton-wrapped polyester. It had the shine of cotton and the strength of polyester. Coats is now producing it under the same name but it's all polyester. Ideas? I know some folks out there are thread snobs, but I just want something that's (a) available!! and (b) will hold up. A little (c) affordability and (d) good color range wouldn't hurt either. A basic, workhorse thread!! Second question: how do you match thread to fabric if you can't actually *compare* them in a store? ==Marjorie Wilser @..@ @..@ @..@ Three Toad Press http://3toad.blogspot.com/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Exhibition: Ballgowns: British Glamour Since 1950
It was the very first line of the article that made me laugh. It isn't an item that hangs in most people's wardrobes, ... the ballgown ... Likely it makes most of us on h-cost smile that secret smile of the fabulously well dressed. Thanks for the links. The photos are pretty good eye candy. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Wed, May 16, 2012 at 4:48 AM, Linda Walton linda.wal...@dsl.pipex.com wrote: Another exhibition opens on Saturday, at the VA in London: There are lots more details here: http://www.guardian.co.uk/artanddesign/2012/may/15/vanda-ballgowns-exhibition-red-carpet ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Color images of summer cotton frocks, 1917-1918
In a cautionary note, what is currently seen printed in vintage mags is often not representative of the actual colors. There are many reasons for this, including the following: Some color variance is due to limits of the then-available ink technology and print processes. Even to the 1990s printing technology did not do dark blues well. Some variance in color is due to artistic taste of graphic artists press technicians the prevailing taste for soft colors in art decor. Some variance in color is due econimical printshop owners. Less ink used = more profit. Cheaper paper, often with high acid content = more profit. In any case, 90 years of age in printed goods is a long, loong time, particular when done in cheap materials. Catalogs are not fine art... they were not made to last any longer than the next catalog issue. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Wed, May 2, 2012 at 12:06 PM, Terry twal...@us.net wrote: Also, somber colors were the norm to wear during WWI. With so many people losing friends and loved ones, bright colors were not always appropriate. Terry ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Color images of summer cotton frocks, 1917-1918
On Wed, May 2, 2012 at 2:09 PM, Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com wrote: Not sure where you get the 'didn't do dark blues' well. I have a goodly supply of dark blue from the 90s (in a 5 pound can! That's a lifetime for my small letterpress), and it's dark and creamy (under the can skin), and indeed prints dark blue, enough to make print appear black! Well, I spent several years in the printing press automation business. Regarding 4 color printing, it was one of those things the color separations people and press operators complained about the most... along with trying to print wet looking or shiny images onto newsprint catalogs. Marjorie, you are using what modern commercial press houses would call a speciality color. Yes, you can get any one color you like. For full color dot-printed matter in 4-color KCMY, it's different. For those of you who are curious what we're talking about: Dig up a newsprint copy of the SJ Merc, or the Metro and find a color car ad or a color picture of a cold drink with dew on the side. Look at the same image in the online version. World of difference! We can go on about photographic color spaces, too, as you point out, but we're wandering rather far off topic. Happy to talk shop with you anytime Marjorie! When are you in Silly Valley next? --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] (no subject)
Huh, I was under the impression that the covered head (regardless of location or specific era) was from something in Leviticus. You'll have to find someone more aware of things Biblical than I am for further info. In any case, and I havent read the article, linking a fashion trend to what everybody knows sounds like a stretch. I have no evidence or inclination towards of aural insemination, just a hunch that it's a quaint old wives tale written down oft repeated cuz it's so marvelously silly. I'm off to think Ragtime era thoughts. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Fri, Mar 23, 2012 at 11:03 AM, Laurie Taylor mazarineblu...@gmail.com wrote: Greetings all, I've been mulling this bit of trivia around in my head for the longest time. I think I need to share it and see if any of you know of any support or documentation for this information. Most Unusual Concession to Modesty: The earliest Christians believed that the Virgin Mary was impregnated through her ear and that other women as well had used their ears as reproductive organs. For that reason, an exposed female ear was considered no less an outrage than an exposed thigh, and a woman would not appear in public unless clad in a tight-fitting wimple. Felton, Bruce, and Mark Fowler. Part II, Behavior. The Best, Worst, and Most Unusual: Noteworthy Achievements, Events, Feats and Blunders of Every Conceivable Kind. New York: Galahad, 1994. 428. Print. So, the wimple had to develop for some reason. Is this reason believable? Documentable? Are there any other reasons that would be more legitimate based on available documentation? Laurie Taylor Phoenix ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] pumpkin bonnet?
Could it be a calash that you're looking for? It's a 18th c thing. Can we have a picture of the item you're trying to date? --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Thu, Mar 22, 2012 at 7:29 PM, Suzanne sovag...@cybermesa.com wrote: Hello 19th century experts! I'm trying to date a bonnet which was donated to the museum where I work -- but 19th century bonnets are not my area of expertise. The donors called this a pumpkin bonnet from early 1800s but I have doubts about that, and the only similar examples I found in a quick internet search were American Civil War era. I'm inclined to go with a circa 1860 date but I'd be delighted to hear from someone who actually knows something! :-) The bonnet is made of brown silk, constructed in concentric rows of thick ruching, with tiny bows at the top center of each row, and a short bavolet. It's softer and more spherical in shape than this one (because the back is less defined and the bavolet is not as heavily gathered): http://darlinganddash.com/bonnetcardboard.html I don't yet have a picture of our bonnet -- but go ahead and make suggestions anyway. No matter what, I'll learn something! Thanks, Suzanne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker#8203;'s dummy wearing today?
Mine is wearing a hunter green cashmere coat from a Vogue Designer pattern that needs, hems, cuffs and a final pressing. There is no hope I'll have it done for this winter. Maybe next... She's also wearing my houseguest's jacket hat. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com -- Original Message -- From: Cin cinbar...@gmail.com To: H-costume h-cost...@indra.com Subject: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today? Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2012 18:27:52 -0700 It's that time of year when the calendar is full of spring teas, summer holidays, Titanic era parties, winter balls, company dinners, the spring theater season, LARP goodness. You might even be planning a sojourn to thrilling foreign locale. Whatever the reason, h-costumers are probably making something. So, what's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today? --cin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?
It's that time of year when the calendar is full of spring teas, summer holidays, Titanic era parties, winter balls, company dinners, the spring theater season, LARP goodness. You might even be planning a sojourn to thrilling foreign locale. Whatever the reason, h-costumers are probably making something. So, what's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today? --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com PS. It's ok to run into the sewing room, toss something marvelous on the dummy and *then* tell us about it. It's also ok to tell what's in your design sketchbook, on the worktable, in the quilt frame, at the sewing machine or in the embroidery hoop. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Tate's national photographic archive 'rescued from skip' after internal tipoff
It sounded from the article that just one guy was off his rocker... probably some cheesed off curator made at loosing the gallery space. --cin On Mon, Feb 27, 2012 at 8:22 AM, Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com wrote: And VA were stupid enough not to realize that they could have put them on eBay and made a small fortune! ;) ==Marjorie Wilser (feeling a little snippy today. . .) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Pattern Suggestions
Yeah, what she said. SHS Wisconsin does a great job with their research which I know is an important factor to you despite the never-was that is Steampunk. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Thu, Feb 9, 2012 at 8:12 AM, Maggie Halberg hhalb94...@aol.com wrote: I really like the pattern put out by the State Historical Society of Wisconsin. You get the bodice, skirt and overskirt in the same pattern. It makes up really easily and comes with both a faster, modern method and a period method in the instructions. Maggie Halberg ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Grandes assiettes - single or double layer
In a monograph published by the Musee des Tissus (Lyons), the Charles de Blois pourpoint is conjectured to be worn over a vest-like thing that held all the stuffing for the fashionable high puff chest. This particular example has the sleeves body of the gament all in the same fabric. We discussed this pourpoint, the account books from the Dukes of Lorraine, Jeanne d'Arc the records from her trial waaay-back. Check the h-cost archives. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Sat, Dec 3, 2011 at 4:54 AM, Zuzana Kraemerova zkraemer...@yahoo.com wrote: Hi there, I am searching for evidence for the grandes assiettes sleeve construction from the 14th and 15th centuries, the type with two coloured garment - sleeves in one colour, bodice in another. Like this: http://www.cottesimple.com/blois_and_sleeves/grande_assiette/Sachsenspiegel_large.jpg Do you know whether this was one garment made from two fabrics, or two separate garments, the upper being a vest-sort of thing? I know this is often discussed, but has anyone already found an answer to this question? Thanks a lot, Zuzana ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Uniquely you replacement cover
Thanks all for your helpful hints vendor reviews. I'm on it! --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Thu, Nov 3, 2011 at 4:30 PM, Cin cinbar...@gmail.com wrote: Ladies gents, I'm in the market for a new cover for a recent adopted Uniquely You dressmakers dummy. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Uniquely you replacement cover
Ladies gents, I'm in the market for a new cover for a recent adopted Uniquely You dressmakers dummy. A friend pulled her out of a dumpster. She's been washed in the process the cover shredded must be replaced. I'd shop locally but there's no one near who seems to carry covers only. I'm forced to check online. Does anyone have info, good or bad about this vendor? http://www.sewvacdirect.com/uniquelyyou-cvr5.html The price is pretty reasonable. I've never heard of them before. In the meantime, I see about finding a replacement stand for her. Thanks all! --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Wig building (Previously: 1880s hairstyles)
Oooh, thanks Danielle, I really liked the vids on the Peruke Makerei site and will look at some of the others, too. http://www.makeup-fx.com/perukmakeri1eng.html Thanks! --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com One place that might not seem obvious but you might want to try some of the CosPlay wig sites, or sites I found while looking for CosPlay stuff. Some of their wig fibers are quite high quality and are meant to be dyed. Others make custom wigs, and generally you never know what you will find. You can easily luck out. I managed to find a really decent looking 18th c. looking women's one - much better than any of the regular sites on one, for example. Here are a few that I've found. Keep in mind I've never purchased anything from any of them so can't vouch for any of them personally: ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Wig building (Previously: 1880s hairstyles)
Where does on buy wig lace in SIlicon Valley? I have to make a young gent's beard wig for myself. (I have a male role in a show.) One of the other costumers has handed me some wig crepe given some very general instructions. Here I am, begging for further instruction... even a website or video tutorial. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] mystery term
Doesnt the Hesitation Waltz belong to the teens rather than the 30s? --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Sat, Oct 8, 2011 at 6:28 PM, Margo Anderson li...@margospatterns.comwrote: On Oct 7, 2011, at 6:19 AM, Astrida Schaeffer wrote: Anyone ever heard of a hesitation hem??? There's the Hesitation Waltz step, there might be a connection. Margo ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?
Thanks all! I relaunch this thread whenever I need just a bit of a push for the next project or for the restart on a less inspired project, like a repair. Adonis, while waiting for the last bit of varnish to go on the baseboards floors in the sewing room, is shoved into a corner of the LR. He's languishing among some boxes with 3 hats on his neck-stub. Also in the LR, Euphrosnia is tragically mismatched wearing an black silk taffeta Elizabethan skirt (needs a hem) and the bodice to a burgundy Victorian gown, being repaired. Meanwhile at the sewing machine is a replacement waistband for a Dickens Faire dress. The 3 heads are in a box. Repairs remodelling happens! The year of no new projects, only finishing fixing continues. This was my costume New Years Resolution this year. The only new projects I've allowed myself are those made from scraps that are already in the house. (Really, it has to be a scrap, not just something in the stash.) It's been hard, but I've been very successful in getting some projects, including a few that languished 3 years, 4 years or more. In the spirit of true confessions, I did have one bit of backsliding... the black silk taffeta listed above. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Tue, Oct 4, 2011 at 8:39 PM, Paula Praxis praxis_...@hotmail.com wrote: Everytime this thread comes up you guys blow me away with your talent, creativity and diversity. My girls are neked right now but I am working on Regency style frock coats shirts for Pride Predujice Paula S. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?
It's that time of year when the calendar is full of holiday parties, winter balls, gift-making excuses, company dinners, Dickens Fair, theater season, New Years Eve, cocktail parties, and 12th Night. You might even be planning a sojourn to a balmy tropical locale. Whatever the reason, h-costumers are probably making something. So, what's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today? --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com PS. It's ok to run into the sewing room, toss something marvelous on the dummy and *then* tell us about it. It's also ok to tell what's in your design sketchbook, on the worktable, in the quilt frame, at the sewing machine or in the embroidery hoop. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Has anyone here beaded garments with real stones
It depends on the stones. Diamonds rubies are very hard to fracture. Opals, pearls emeralds very easy. I accidently laundered my tanzanite ring when I left it in the pocket of a pair of jeans. It did color change slightly. Worse, the setting got scratched. Check the Moh's hardness scale for an idea, knowing whether your rocks are natural, synthetic or synthesized stones will also help. FWIW, Some rocks are still a bit rough thru the hole might cut the thread that sews them onto the gown. In any case, I wouldnt launder or dryclean the dress. I have a vintage 50s dress with clear quartz in individual settings that are sewn on. Still dont have any idea how to clean that dress. Do let me know when you're rich enough to sew diamonds onto your dresses. I'm going to be your very best friend. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Mon, Oct 3, 2011 at 3:42 PM, cw15147-hcos...@yahoo.com cw15147-hcos...@yahoo.com wrote: I have not done what you're describing, but I just checked with a friend who is a jewelry maker. She says the stones would survive dry cleaning, but the color may change. She said she wouldn't risk it. I've sewn beads (glass pearls) onto fabric with a standard beading needle. Claudine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Pockets...
Danielle, This is very cool. Did you have anymore stray thoughts about where you might have seen or read this? For many of us early sorts, pockets can be a mild obsession. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Mon, Sep 19, 2011 at 12:26 AM, Danielle Nunn-Weinberg gilshal...@comcast.net wrote: Well, they were in use in the 16th century, I can't remember the exact reference off the top of my head but there is a court mention of Anne Boleyn using pockets but it is the only one I know of, of women in England using them that early. Might have been part of her trial? Sorry, my memory is going. Cheers, Danielle ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Pockets...
Off the top of my head, much earlier than the 18th c. See the Alessandro Alliori frescoes in the Chiusa Sta Maria Nuova, Florence, 1570s and a second group in the 1590s. Another set of his frescos showing a gal putting up her hair, in the PItti Palace, are c1588. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Thu, Sep 15, 2011 at 12:41 PM, fastusminimus cah...@zoominternet.net wrote: Hi When did the tie on pockets come into use? i know they are 18th century, but am drawing a blank on how early they where worn. Or perhaps the question should be when did the pouch get replaced by the pair of pockets, worn under the 'dress'? Thanks Carol ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Pockets...
Just one, late 16th brown velvet w/ gold silver embroidery - couched, I think. Textiles Museum, Madrid... cant think how it's said in Spanish. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Thu, Sep 15, 2011 at 12:58 PM, Carmen Beaudry I believe one of the Spanish museums has a couple dating from the early 16th cen. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Miss Universe 2011 national costumes
On Mon, Sep 12, 2011 at 3:29 PM, Carol Kocian aqua...@patriot.net wrote: Great links, thank you! The Telegraph has a second set of 2011 costume pix. You're very welcome! I dont think Miss France has her skirt on straight. Sad. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Era with Heaviest undergarmants - TV query
I'd ditto the 1840 very early 50s just before the hoop comes in. For a particularly unique example, Queen Victoria, when she was very young, commented on the excess weight of her parlementary robes. That said, I'm also going to put in a bid for late Elizabethan court style in drum farthingales as the 2nd runner-up. I know some of you are gonna poo-poo this, but with a velvet or satin kirtle skirts, all of which is fully lined sometimes, interfaced, guarded, embroidered in metal beaded to a fair-thee-well. Even the precious metal embroidery is heavy. It's how embroiderers were paid, in many cases, by weight of the metal applied. Then. once those beaded outer skirts jewels things get tossed on the drum, we're talking heavy. I supposed much of it matters as to where you draw the definitional line of undergarments. Kirtles, even those with portions meant to be seen are under open gowns, loose gowns are, by some lights, underwear. Whatever the answer, it's a pretty silly question. You can pretty much find exceptionalism anywhere or anywhen you look for it. Does mean that the rank file wore it. And while it's an amusing question for costumers, the answer really isnt much use either. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Fri, Sep 2, 2011 at 8:14 AM, penhal...@juno.com penhal...@juno.com wrote: I would say that the early Victorian period especially the late 1840's would be the heaviest era for undergarments. By that time the corset was re-emerging as a longer, more heavily boned object and ladies wore lots of underskirts/petticoats to achieve the bell skirted look which was in fashion. If I remember my readings correctly (at work and away from my books) a really fashionable woman might wear upwards of 15 skirts. When the crinoline was introduced in the 1850's it was hailed as a liberator becuase women could go without the weight and encumbrance of all the petticoats. Karen DezomaSeamstrix -- Original Message -- From: Chris Harrison ch...@yahoo.com To: h-costume@mail.indra.com h-costume@mail.indra.com Subject: [h-cost] Era with Heaviest undergarmants - TV query Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2011 08:05:17 -0700 (PDT) Hello Bay Area Costumers! I loved the costume bazaar last weekend and was delighted to pick up a great Dickens Faire#65533;outfit (and a membership to the group). Now, a question from a friend of mine is a scout/producer for a company that makes tv shows for Discovery, TLC, etc. (see below) Can#65533;anyone help? I don't want to bog down the list with responses if this is really basic, so feel free to email me off the list. Thanks! #65533; - Forwarded Message - From: Shera Jenne sh...@shera.tv To: Chris Harrison ch...@yahoo.com Sent: Friday, September 2, 2011 6:57 AM Subject: Advice Hey there Chris! Wish you were near. I have so many things to ask you! ha ha. Do you know anything about Victorian undergarments? Weird question, huh. I am writing up a proposal and I am trying to figure out the time period in which women wore the MOST undergarments... as in number of items and/or heaviest. I think I read somewhere that at their height women were wearing 19 pounds of undergarments under their dresses. But I can't find that definitively. I know you specialize in more middle ages stuff... (or medieval?) but since costumery is an area of interest I thought it might be something you'd know a little bit about. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 57-Year-Old Mom Looks 25 Mom Reveals $5 Wrinkle Trick That Has Angered Doctors! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4e60f32ebb48b110d5bst05duc ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] weight of batting [was:Re: Heavy underwear]
My mother has the king-size, wool stuffed, wool scrap pieced, flannel backed comforter that my great-grandmother made. The wool stuffing is hand carded, and laid in swirls. (I noticed when I did some repairs on it a couple years back.) It's impressively heavy; you might suffocate under it, but you wont be cold. The Illinois farmhouse didnt have central heating. She also made several cotton piecework quilts, one for each grand great-grand child. They are much much lighter in weight than the wool one. The cotton stuffing is hand-carded, too. My husband's great-grandmother made a down stuffed best quilt that I have, as well. Very high loft extremely lightweight. I recall that sleeve stuffings could be down (in various eras), but dont recall any down petticoats in any inventories or museums. I'm a quilter, too, and that Warm Natural stuff sandwiched in cotton is a whole lot lighter than the all-wool one of the same size. My quilted petticoat is nuthin' by comparison. It's very light, and not much more batting in it than a baby quilt or lap quilt might have. It's those 1840s-50s corded ruffled petticoats that are beasts to wear, IMHO. It all depends on the weight and density of the rope being used. I'm not an expert I never made a corded petti. Maybe someone else can provide some insight on these. Enjoy the 3-day weekend, ladies gents! --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Fri, Sep 2, 2011 at 4:28 PM, Helen Pinto helen.pi...@comcast.net wrote: I have a queen-sized wool comforter (wool batting between two layers of egyptian cotton). It weighs less than the much thinner quilted all-cotton bedspread. YMMV, -Helen/Aidan ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 0
Sunny's been hacked. She doesnt, AFAIK smoke. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Wed, Aug 31, 2011 at 3:10 PM, Sunshine Buchler sunny_buch...@sbcglobal.net wrote: ...Wow! I found a new way to stop smoking! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] FYI -Re: New RMS Titanic and Fashion week
http://imagesonline.bl.uk/?service=searchaction=do_quick_searchlanguage=enq=titanic Or google this: British Library Images Online titanic --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Thu, Aug 25, 2011 at 9:14 AM, Franchesca franchesca.ha...@gmail.com wrote: All the html was stripped. Would you kindly send the links that are missing to the images please? :) Franchesca : -Original Message- : From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume- : boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Sheridan Alder : Sent: Thursday, August 25, 2011 9:04 AM : To: h-cost...@indra.com : Subject: [h-cost] FYI -Re: New RMS Titanic and Fashion week: Images Online : August 2011 : : : : : Subject: New RMS Titanic and Fashion week: Images Online August 2011 : : : www.bl.uk : August 2011 : Images Online : Dear Sheridan, : : Welcome to the August edition of the new look Images Online newsletter. This : month we are featuring images from our RMS Titanic collection as well as a : beautiful selection of illustrations, inspired by London Fashion Week, by the : French Illustrator, George Barbier. : Browse and buy our images : : : What's in this issue: : : New Titanic Collection London Fashion Week New Images Online : Website Image Calendar : : New RMS Titanic Collection : Setting sail from Southampton Harbour on the 10 April 1912, the Titanic : represented the pinnacle of maritime technology of the day. It was said that as : far as it was possible to do so, the Titanic had been designed to be unsinkable : and while also measuring in at 270 metres in length the ship was certainly a : magnificent sight. But on the 14 April 1912 the Titanic struck an iceberg and : sunk in the early hours of the 15 April. Approximately 1,500 people lost their : lives in the disaster. : : In the run-up to the 100 year anniversary of the launch and sinking of the RMS : Titanic, the British Library has a new collection of incredible images available : to view and licence on our Images Online website. The collection includes : spectacular shots of the ship as well as SOS notes. : : View Images : : London Fashion Week : To celebrate London Fashion Week (16 - 21 September), The British Library : has a fantastic selection of fashion images including illustrations by the great : French illustrator, George Barbier. : : : All of these are available on the Images Online website. : : : : : View Images : : New Images Online : Website : Image Calendar : This is just to remind everybody that Images Online have a new website, : packed with features : : : : * Improved Searching : * PLUS Pricing : * Image Flexibility : * New Image Alerts On the Images Online website we have a : Historic Images Calendar. The Calendar, featuring images commemorating : historical events is there to help you find that telling image for notable events : and anniversaries. : : Click on the link below to go to the calendar and discover fascinating facts : about significant events, births and deaths from around the world . : : View Images : View Images : Follow us on Twitter! Images Online : has a new facebook page ! : : Discover the world's knowledge www.bl.uk : : The British Library respects your privacy and only sends emails about or : services to registered customers and subscribers to our email newsletters. To : unsubscribe from this newsletter, follow this link : : Any suggestions or comments about this newsletter? : : : Copyright (c) The British Library Board : The British Library, 96 Euston Road, London, NW1 2DB : ___ : h-costume mailing list : h-costume@mail.indra.com : http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Where is everyone hanging out these days?
So here are the questions...how did you find the h-costume email list? And what year did you join? Word of mouth from friends in the local chapter of the costumer's guild. I dont think the list was much more than a few weeks old at the time. 1994? Obligatory costume content: not working on anything costume-y at the moment. Just got back from Costume College have barely got it all laundered put away. The local chapter's Salon (tea party) was at my house today. We had all the 1910s books out so we could inspire the next round of fashions. In Calif, we're coming up on 100 years of Women's Sufferage (women here got the vote rather late, in 1911). Next year is the centenial of the sinking of the Titanic, so there's another good reason to think ragtime thoughts. The Art Deco festival on the Queen Mary is quite soon and so is the Sacramento Ragtime Festival. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Sun, Aug 7, 2011 at 10:08 PM, penn...@costumegallery.com wrote: So here are the questions...how did you find the h-costume email list? And what year did you join? It will be really interesting how the newbies have found it. I found it as one of two costume email lists in 1996 on AOL. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Monster pannier.
Love the idea of a ginormous court gown with 2m wide panniers on a very small woman. I wore one that large for a LARP. I rented the gown from ACT (that's a theater company here in San Francisco) that had made the gown for the horrible grasping wife character in The Imaginary Invalid. What fun to navigate thru halls. People, especially guys, sudden turn into charming gentlemen who fetched water or picked up dropped hankies. Pairs of them opened double doors for me simple made me feel like a queen. The whole point of this silly reminscing, is to have you remind your model/ client to practice with something that wide. Plan ahead for many eventuallities. --cin On Tue, Jul 26, 2011 at 6:35 AM, Rickard, Patty ricka...@mountunion.edu wrote: Oh, Bjarne, Do keep us posted! Patty -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Leif og Bjarne Drews Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2011 9:02 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] Monster pannier. I dont remember before i left h-costume last, if i told you my plans for making a court dress from 1750ies? I have baught 20 yards of a wonderfull BrunswickFils floral silk brokade i want to use for this projekt. Today while i was sitting and sewing on a pannier for a karnival dress, i desided to go to a copy shop here in Copenhagen who has large machines that can blow up patterns. I want to make the pannier worn with Louise Ulrika of Swedens coronation dress. Her pannier is 2 meters wide, but she was a small lady we must remember. I used the center front from waist to ground to calculate the new size its a lady who is 1 m. 20 cm. from waist to ground. I showed the man in the shop the point i wanted to use as blowup, told him i wanted the center front foldline to be 1m. 10 cm. Now i am home and i have off cause tryed to meassure and its going to be about 2 meters wide at waist level, and (my god) 6 m. 80 cm. in cirkumference at the foot bone. I have ben curious about the size for a long time, but i had not dreamed it would be that monster big. I have fabric for it, and its going to be a future projekt, i hope perhaps next year. Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] FOUR DAYS DOWN?
Just got back from the Queen Mary vintage dance week and now planning for Costume College. Busy! Busy! --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 4:34 PM, Ruth Anne Baumgartner ruthan...@mindspring.com wrote: She Stoops to Conquer in Newtown. Directing AND costuming. Not much time for anything else! --Ruth Anne On Jul 13, 2011, at 7:20 PM, Ann Catelli wrote: Pennsic XL is occupying my mind preparing for it, my time. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] FOUR DAYS DOWN?
... and planning the GBACG teens tea party in August. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 4:33 PM, Cin cinbar...@gmail.com wrote: Just got back from the Queen Mary vintage dance week and now planning for Costume College. Busy! Busy! --cin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Wooden busk for Regency corset
I did a 20 page paper on busks, primarily 16th c-18th ones, some years back and then made my own Elizabethan busk covering. Woods cited in my sources include ash (extant examples), juniper (referred in a 16th c poem). Most museums dont identify the exact woods in their artifacts. As Regency corsets are shorter than the 16th 17th busks, you wont have any stresses from the wearer trying to bend thru the waist. Busks were made in other materials such as ivory, horn and baleine. I have a pic of one from a cow's rib. Removing my historian's hat donning my workworker's gloves allow me to add the following from personal experience: I recommend light, tight grain woods like ash, cherry poplar, as they sand to glassy smooth and wont splinter. Dont use pine will definitely splinter if it breaks. The earliest extant wooden busk, for which we have a picture, is triangular, both in cross-section and in plan view. Dont oil treat the wood, it will bleed thru your garments. I didnt treat mine at all, natural ash absorbs body moisture and dries again w/o distorting the wood. Gotta run, --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com My main question though is about busks, I found wooden busks for sale at Corsetmaking.com for $6 each, a bargain if strong enough. I read somewhere that oak or ash were the standard woods for busks. These just say hardwood. Given that the corsets will probably only be few times, should these be adequate? Or should I go elsewhere and order oak busks at about three times the cost? Since I need five of them, this represents a considerable investment. Paula ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Farthingale
Yes, you're taller than the pattern, IIRC. Get that engineer you live w/ to help you redraft it to your proportions. I really disagreed w/ the sizing when I was building it for rather small creature that is me. It's pretty much based on Alcega, so if you want something different than that, like a crazy 1580s superwide Elizabethan, then you're going to be redesigning anyway. --cin On Thu, May 19, 2011 at 10:43 AM, Sharon Collier sha...@collierfam.com wrote: So I am going to make a new farthingale. I'm intending to use Margo Anderson's Underpinnings pattern. Any ideas/problems/things to watch out for before I begin? Sizing issues, etc.? Sharon C. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Cameras for photographing costumes in poor light?
Aylwen, That URL was too long, I guess. I got page not found error. I know a little about cameras, but I cannot tell what Olympus camera you're looking at. My previous digital SLR camera was Olympus, so I do have a soft spot for the camera line. I'm going to assume you're talking about SLRs not point shoot cameras for casual users. Poor light means something very different to cameras to people. Typical indoor office lighting is poor because the color is disturbingly green or blue. Romantic restaurant lighting is generally too dim unless you're willing to be close, use a tripod, and have your subjects be very still. Doesnt make for charming candid shots. Other solutions to dealing w/ poor lighting require tossing piles of money at technical solutions such as fast prime lenses that can shoot at f2.8 or even f1.4. Another is to use image stabilized bodies lenses to get an effective 2 f-stops. I use both. Pro lines of lenses multipliers will get you clearer shots for a price, sometimes a shockingly high price. If your true objection to flash photography is that it looks harsh or creates ugly Hiroshima shadows around the subject, then consider improving your flash setup. The technique of bounce flash is one solution (and it's free). Another is adding a diffuser onto your existing flash (US$25 or less). Both soften the flash lighting. I'm shooting a Canon EOS Rebel. I cannot help w/ current Olympus gear. I have borrowed a friend's 100mm Pro, image stabilized, AF lens for the weekend for an indoor, commercially lit costume event. Will let you know how it comes out. Arent you going to Boston /or NYC this trip? If you're heading into Manhattan, try BH Camera. It's an institution. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Thu, May 19, 2011 at 2:23 PM, Aylwen Gardiner-Garden aylwe...@gmail.com wrote: I'm hoping to get an Olympus camera - the range I'm looking at is at http://dicksmith.com.au/dsau/navigation/navigation_r esults.jsp?params=omitxmldecl%3Dyes%26fh_maxdisplayn rvalues_brand%3D-1%26fh_refview%3Dlister%26fh_reffacet%3Dbrand%26fh _refpath%3Dfacet_9%26fh_location%3D%252f%252fcatalog 01%252fen_AU%252fcategories%253c%257bcatalog01_25343 74302025483%257d%252fbrand%253dolympus%26fh_eds%3D%25c3%259freset=false and I'm looking for one that will take really good photos of costumes in poor light without a flash. Do you think any of these will work? Or is there a different camera that would be better that I can buy from this store? This is the closest one I can get to at this stage. Cheers, Aylwen ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Cameras for photographing costumes in poor light?
Aylwen, If you get a tripod or monopod, also pickup the quickmount. If you have impatient boys, you'll be glad for the easier time breaking down your setup. Sunpak makes a super lightweight tripod that's easy to put up take down. I dragged it all over Tanzania last year. It held up very, very well in an adverse environment (camping, a dusty savanna lots of bouncy roads) should be a dream in nice, clean, safe museums. Spare rechargable batteries, too. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Thu, May 19, 2011 at 6:03 PM, Cin cinbar...@gmail.com wrote: Aylwen, snip * Add the tripod (good call, Claudine) and do it all again. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] some questions about renaissance,
Welcome back, Bjarne! --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Fri, May 13, 2011 at 7:25 AM, Leif og Bjarne Drews drews...@post12.tele.dk wrote: Hello the list, its long time since last. I have ben asked to make some renaissance costumes for a shool projekt at a danish castle. the teachers are going to be dressed up in renaissance costumes, a man and a woman. They work at a danish castle wich is a museum. I am going to start this projekt in july. In some danish inventory lists, wich all are written in german ( it was the language used then in Denmark) it is often mentioned with wide dresses and narrow dresses. My question is, could a narrow dress be the same as the english word “a kirtle” Its hopeless with danish study of danish renaissance costumes, because nobody knows the danish terms for different costumes (costume parts) No danish words for anything except the major things like ruffs, cuffs and the like. Another question i have for you is: wich fabric would you recomend to use when i make ruffs and cuffs? They should be able to wash them often, and i thoaght about maybe using a synthetic fabric wich will hold the shape, and dont need to be ironed, or perhaps to use silk organza, as this also is stiff and keeps the shape. Any suggestions and any help would be greatfull apreciated. Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] pouting about R. Wedding coverage
So wierd they brought trees into Westminster! They werent there when I was in that church earlier this month. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1906 Fashion Video
Yes, it's a great film shot just days before the SF Earthquake occured. It's going to be shown again at this years Earthquake Day Silent Film festival this weekend. You'll see better details than in the youtube format. http://www.nilesfilmmuseum.org/april_11.htm Some audience members, like myself, are known to arrive in costume. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Thu, Apr 14, 2011 at 4:32 AM, penn...@costumegallery.com wrote: This is a great video of 1906 fashions. It was filmed going down Market St. in San Francisco. The men and women's fashions are great! View this at full screen. All teenagers should see this film when learning to drive. Traffic rules are important. FYI, watch the vide at full screen.but then it might scare you to death. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pnDjmNNC9So Film footage of San Francisco's Market Street from a moving cable car, before the 1906 earthquake and fire. The footage was filmed only days before the quake and shipped by train to NY for processing. This is truly a historical film record. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Stanford Historical Dance Week
University. Still working on it... --cin On Sat, Apr 9, 2011 at 5:01 PM, Mary + Doug Piero Carey mary.d...@pierocarey.info wrote: government politics or university politics? Mary the curious ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] SF area museums
Yes, I do know. The short version is politics. There are people working behind the scenes to save it. We'll see! --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Wed, Apr 6, 2011 at 4:30 PM, Kimie Suzuki konohana...@yahoo.co.jp wrote: Does anyone know the reason why Stanford Historical Dance Week was cancelled? In their web page, It looks like cancelled forever. Kimie ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Washing silk organza
When I washed an offcut of organza (it had gotten a spill) it became too limp to match the rest of the garment. It was also lots duller. My vote, dont... unless ya gotta. Whatcha doing with menswear that takes organza? Not a typical choice. I'm so intrigued. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com -Original Message- From: Elizabeth Walpole elizabeth.r.walp...@gmail.com Hi everyone, A quick question while I'm in the planning stages of this outfit... Does silk organza go limp when you wash it like taffeta does? My partner insists that his garb has to be washable but he doesn't want synthetics and the style of garb he wants really needs something with body. I was hoping that if I bought taffeta and interfaced it with organza I could get back some of the stiffness that taffeta has when it's new. Thanks, Elizabeth ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] SF area museums
Aylwen, If you're coming for Stanford Historic Dance Week we'll keep you so busy with dance classes all day then balls, performances events every nite, you wont have time. More info: http://socialdance.stanford.edu/shdw/ Last year's schedule: http://socialdance.stanford.edu/shdw/schedule.htm For the top museums of interest check the Palace of Fine Arts, the De Young Museum Calif Academy of Sciences. There are many historic house museums around, some have clothing displays. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com I am visiting Stanford, San Francisco on 19 June for a week and wondered if there are any costuming workshops or exhibitions on at that time I can go to? Many thanks, Aylwen Garden http://www.earthlydelights.com.ay Sent from an iPhone. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Authenticity
Carol, We dont discuss the Great Authenticity Issue on this list anymore. All the nasty arguments bitter recriminations have been made. Find the old fights in the archives. Discuss it you'll see a wave of unsubscribes. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Sat, Mar 12, 2011 at 2:08 PM, Carol Kocian aqua...@patriot.net wrote: - Where do we draw the line between what is acceptable as historically accurate vs historically authentic? - With modern sewing skills and fads (such as zippers), where do we encorporate those skills to aid in construction of period garments, or do we insist on using the period methods? Historic activities run the gamut from immersion reenactment to a town's history days event, with different expectations and requirements for different events. Sometimes someone will ask a discussion list if something is OK, when really that decision is up to the event organizers or the leadership of a particular group. Where you draw the line is different than where I would draw it, and it could even be different for the garments in the same outfit. Absolute authenticity is a moving target, because the more we know, the more details there are that are harder t0 reach. That leads into the next question — where to substitute modern skills. When more labor-intensive methods are used, for example hand stitching, custom weaving, hand-knitting and the like, the potential for clients gets smaller. Some of these methods become a labor of love, a desire to learn a technique for its own sake. All costume, including the broader sense that all clothing is costume, is a deliberate effort to communicate something to the rest of the world. Appearance is important, the outermost layer. Some groups have the standard of hand stitching for visible seams, but machine sewn is ok for interior construction — for eras before the sewing machine was around. Underpinnings do make a difference in how the costume looks from the outside, but how much does it matter that the corset looks right, as long as it gives the right shaping. But once you have a reason to show the corset, its appearance becomes more important. Beyond that, as above, it starts to depend on personal interest in a particular technique or a desire to learn the techniques of a particular era. -Carol ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Pinking machine - was: Has anyone tried any of these on fabric?
On Wed, Feb 23, 2011 at 11:47 AM, Laura Rubin rubin.lau...@gmail.com wrote: I have, or else I wouldn't have advised you to do it. :) The reamer is really an important part though. You want a Repairman's reamer or t-reamer. Keep SafeSearch ON when you look for that. thanks for the warning! --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] not ancient hist. costume...
Far out! (An expression I learned watching The Flintstones) --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Mon, Feb 14, 2011 at 12:39 PM, Land of Oz lando...@netins.net wrote: but soon to be! I recently found a book called The Illustrated Hassle-free Make Your Own Clothes Book by Rosonberg and Weiner published by Bantam. I ordered it sight-unseen, so it's not exactly what I thought it was going to be, but it's proven to be an interesting glimpse into the recent past of clothing/costuming. It was published in 1971 and the introduction is full of hippie phrasing like my old man groovy fairly heavy cat funkiness up-tightness and even the f-bomb. I read the introduction aloud to my mother (who was a 31 year old tailor/seamstress in 1971 but definitely in the Channel and Pearls camp rather than the counter-culture group) and we both thought it was hilarious. We both noted that in just a few more decades most people won't be able to correctly interpret such phrases as he was a fairly heavy cat lol! My mother also reminded me of several older-than-me friends of the family I had admired growing up who were into making mu'umu'u from flowered bed sheets, and using wildly contrasting fabric to insert large wedges into the pant's legs of their jeans. (I was, of course, forbidden to do any such thing!) Will there someday be reinactment groups for the late 60s to 70s? :-) This book may prove to be a valuable reference! Denise B Iowa ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Costume Con
That would be BayCon. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Tue, Feb 1, 2011 at 8:00 AM, Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com wrote: Kayta Barrows was a close friend of mine. She often judged something at . . . Oh gosh. Forgot the Con name! Memorial Day in San Jose: is that SiliCon? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Fwd: Your family and costuming genes
I think I come by the basics leading up to costuming honestly. My mom like so many in the 50s was expected to sew made her own suits outfits for all us kids. My dad, the pro fine arts photographer, taught me awareness of color balance, mood, lighting composition. As I've been called in as Stage Manager (for the first time) my dad actually confessed that lighting technician was a big interest in college. ... final dress rehearsal tonite opening tomorrow for Vienna, City of My Dreams -- A Music and Dance Performance by Peninsula Symphony Danse Libre alumni On Friday we're at San Mateo PAC http://www.goldstar.com/events/san-mateo-ca/peninsula-symphony-performs-romantic-music.html On Saturday, we're at the Flint Center http://www.flintcenter.com/show_info.html This one's been fun as the dance company didnt know they needed to provide lighting guidance to the tech crew. I've gotten to do that and is s fun! Painting with light! Nowadays, my parents have picked up the costume history bug from me. They volunteer at local historic houses, throw ragtime costume paties for their friends and seriously cheer me on. In the younger generation, my young niece youngest nephew have been bitten by the costume bug, too... tho she prefers princess dresses to most anything else. Her brother has a huge wardrobe of pirate's coats, knights armor and other costumes. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 15th Year Anniversary
I remember that! --cin On Fri, Jan 7, 2011 at 11:27 AM, Agnes Gawne ga...@mac.com wrote: I have been on the list since at least spring of 1994. I remember we tried to have H labels for our name badges at the Costume Con in Santa Clara... I think that was CC12. Agnes ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 15th Year Anniversary
Hey, stop callin' me old-timer! I checked the archives found my oldest post from 24Jan1994. I was on reading the list before that date, maybe Nov93. Somewhere in there the first h-costume outing occured. It was to the costume shop wardrobe department of the now defunct American Musical Theater of San Jose with lunch and costumer's brag book showing at a nearby Chinese restaurant. (Back then, you may recall, we had real albums with paper pictures, not just albums on Facebook. I laugh to think of the changes.) I've learned alot, bought a lot of books, made a lot of gowns alot of h-costume friends since then. Happy website b-day, Penny and happy belated 16th birthday to h-costume, everyone! --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Thu, Jan 6, 2011 at 12:18 PM, penn...@costumegallery.com wrote: So who are the old-timers on h-costume that are still here? What year did you join h-costume? I joined in 1995 while taking my costume history classes in college. I was so excited to find out there were people all over the world who loved costume history. Today I guess people a lot of people do not understand how little about historic costuming was online in the mid-1990s. H-costume was the only email list that I could find around the time. Oher lists followed h-costume ... ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] eek, quick opinion pls...
Me, too. I already miss doing my annual order from GH. I got the Pellon brand hair canvas from Joann's online store. Even the superstores dont carry it. I'd prefer Arno's Acro fusible canvas, but J's doesnt carry it AFAICT. I'm also fond of Tailor's Pride, a very good sew-in one that's hard to find. Happy New Year, Katy! --cin On Sat, Dec 18, 2010 at 5:10 AM, Katy Bishop katybisho...@gmail.com wrote: Cin, Where do you buy your hair cloth? I used to get it from greenberg and Hammer, I'm so sad they are gone. Katy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What costume-related holiday gifts did you get?
Got a pair of real Victorian gold seed pearl earrings from my parents. Very pretty rather dainty. I shall be the belle of the ball! --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Sun, Dec 26, 2010 at 10:39 AM, Mary Llewellyn mary.m.llewel...@gmail.com wrote: My costume-related gift, ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] tailoring supplies
On Fri, Dec 17, 2010 at 10:53 PM, Franchesca franchesca.ha...@gmail.com wrote: What is your favorite lining to use for wools? Can we all play this game? If Im being historically correct, I use whatever the original garment(s) had inside. That's usually linen for the 16th-17th c. Linen against a linen shirt can drag twist in wearing. It also can get pretty bulky as seams meet up. If I'm feeling less fussy, I go for the silk taffeta or a heavy habotai. Mostly I use scraps from previous projects. I've not done a 19th coat in a long time, but when I do, it's silk or raw silk for a lining. On a vaguely related non-wool topic: The 1920s Spectator Coat (Folkwear) that I'm doing with the 1922 Nefertiti silk brocade will have a red slipper satin lining. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] eek, quick opinion pls...
Rather than recommend patterns, let me encourage you to brush up your tailoring skills with Easy, Easier, Easiest Tailoring. It's a very small, inexpensive volume aimed at the home/craft seamstress. There are no historical techniques discussed particularly (as least not as far back as Edwardian). It will however, make the difference in how your jackets coats hang. The info in this book is applicable in both mens women's tailored costumes. It's applicable in theater, re-enactment everyday suiting. Most seamstresses just leave out the interfacing in tailored garments and the results can look tragic. You'll also need to order hair canvas, the secret ingredient for any tailored coat. Few shops carry it. I ordered just a bolt of it. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Thu, Dec 16, 2010 at 14:56, Patricia Dunham chim...@ravensgard.org wrote: Don't know if I actually have time to still get this by Xmas, BUT! Himself re-iterated interest in a Steampunk/Victorian outfit again last night, so... Anybody know anything about any of these particular patterns or vendors... Laughing Moon #109, men's frock coats vest Folkwear #222, set of vests Men's Garments 1830-1900: A Guide to Pattern Cutting and Tailoring, by RI Davis (book) Old West Men's Clothing Patterns, by Wingeo, Pattern #W324 (frock coat), #W325 (Dress Coat) We have good basic sewing skills, some theatrical costuming experience, but no tailoring... Greatly appreciated, any responses today, Thursday... Chimene ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] costuming a window
Some days I just wish h-cost had a like button. Like! --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Sat, Dec 4, 2010 at 9:37 AM, Wicked Frau wickedf...@gmail.com wrote: Haa, some day I swear I will find a room that I can make puff and slash curtains for! Sg ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Fur trims advice
Vogue Patterns mag Dec 2010/Jan 2011 issue has a realy nice article on working with fur. It has a huge chunk of advice for working with old furs, mending splits, reshaping and more. I dont generally get this mag, but this article was a must have for me. I too, have a closet full of vintage furs and a box in the garage labelled road kill filled with furs with big holes, badly worn areas other problems. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Sat, Dec 4, 2010 at 2:22 AM, Kate Bunting k.m.bunt...@derby.ac.uk wrote: My current project is to trim the 17th century jacket, which I made last winter, with fur. Political correctness has made it impossible to buy old fur coats in charity shops, but a fellow reenactor kindly gave me the sleeves of a rabbit coat during the summer. I want it to look like the fur-edged jackets you see in many Dutch paintings. Does anyone have any advice about this? I've borrowed a library book with instructions for making fur collars etc. It recommends you to dampen the skin side of the fur and pin it into shape on a board before cutting. I've made a paper template but haven't had time to do anything more yet. Kate Bunting Librarian 17th century reenactor _ The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk. The policy is available here: http://www.derby.ac.uk/LIS/Email-Policy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?
It's that time of year when the calendar is full of holiday parties, winter balls, gift-making excuses, company dinners, Dickens Fair, theater season, New Years Eve, cocktail parties, and 12th Night... The sewing room is a mess being prepped for painting fancy new baseboards to restore this part of the house back to it's 1918 glory days. All the furniture is huddled for protection in the middle of the room. Wreck the halls! Out in the dining room is Euphrosnia wearing the 1920s Spectator Coat (Folkwear http://folkwear.com/262.html) with really-o truly-o vintage 1920s silk brocade Nefertiti head fabric and red satin lining. This coat needs interior pockets set in before it's ready for final assembly. I have to go find some black silk velvet for the cuffs, collar and Nefertiti shaped hat and some fabu buttons. I already have a vintage 1920s scarab brooch that will embellish the hat along with some ridiculously long pheasant feathers. The disembodied heads, Anne, Katherine Charles, are wearing, variously, a Regency bonnet in pleated wool challis, a crown of Evil with a raven perched on top and a spoon bonnet. Adonis, my male dummy is naked in the living room overlooking the rest of the contents of my sewing room. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Opinions on Manesse Codex diagonal stripes
HRJ, Sorry dont know much about the Manesse Codex and the surrounding culture or even much about the 14th c. I've been head-first into the serving hall fashions of 1420-1440s Catalunya preparing for the Perfectly Period Feast next month. There's a diagonal striped garment here, as well. I'll use it to provide a parallel example. It's worn by a panter, or carver in the panel St Andrew saves a bishop (they're dining with the devil in the form of a woman). See the Retable of the Golden Legend of St Andrew, 1420-30 - Master of Roussillon, Perpignan – now at the Met NYC . (I can comment further on the Catalunya-Italian penninsula cultural relationships, or on the social place of staff at a formal dinner in a small but noble household, but I suspect that would wander off topic quickly.) Back to the St Andrew panel. What I see is black with gold plaid diagonally striped with a red-orange solid. The paint is quite damaged here in the corner of this image. The garment is not just diagonally striped in a flattened V, it's counter changed. With modern materials I'd probably recreate this with the black gold plaid wool cut on the straight grain as the gold stripe in the plaid runs parallel with the red-orange panels. The (modern) quilter in me demands use of straight grain in the red-orange stripe as well. LR panels have to be cut on the opposite bias. This is not particularly sparing of materials, but then I'm not going to find this stripe in a modern fabric store either. With infinite time money for materials, I'd experiment with weaving a striped velvet fabric that alternated these panels. For anyone doubting the striped ground, I refer you to the book Brocarts Celestes where you can see a picture labeled Fragment de velour coupe polychrome avec un motif de grenade, last 3rd15th c. With either reconstruction, I'd have to cut the garment panels with the CF on the bias. Allow me to note that in the common recontruction of the short houppe, the modern seamstress puts the straight grain on the CFCB and has a true bias on side seam. In constrast, a reconstruction cutting the garment with the CF/CB bias means the sideseam is now the straight grain. A crazier reconstruction (with more extravagant use of expensive fabric even less use of historical methods) I'd have to cut the left right panels to counterchange the stripe on the bias. Use the image with caution as the individual panel is quite small, and the figure a very small part of it. Anyway, Heather, love to share a drink with you noodle over the possibilities! --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Wed, Oct 20, 2010 at 9:47 PM, Heather Rose Jones heather.jo...@earthlink.net wrote: With the caveats that artistic representations aren't always intended to represent actual clothing construction, and that representations of clothing decoration are sometimes intended to convey symbolism rather than fabric structures, and that there are multiple ways to create any particular decorative effect in fabric ... ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Hooks bars problem
Here's what I've done for historical theater purposes, rather than strict use of historical methods. In Danse Libre performances the last thing I wanted to worry about is costume bits falling off while I was on stage. I chose to do up the lining with sturdy closures, then close the outside fashion layer with something nearly invisible like hooks eyes or covered snaps. This means that the bodice had to be bag lined all around except for CB (usually) closure area. Turn edges of the closure area leaving the outer layer(s) separate from the inside. Apply suitable closure methods to the separate layers.. The lining was closed usually with laces, but for a quick theatrical costume change (7 mins from Victorian into Ragtime), I've installed a zipper. On another, I made a fake closure in the back (a typical Victorian arrangement for a ballgown bodice) and placed the true closure on the CF under some trim. I realize, Kimiko, that you primarily do Tudor, and stay in your things for long periods so my theatrical suggestions are less useful. However, the multiple closures idea shows up in the 16th c with hooks, laces (points) used simultaneously. Finally, you (or your client) may also have over-tightened the stays so that the body fails to fill out the garment as it was designed. Best regards, --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Sun, Oct 17, 2010 at 10:07 PM, Kimiko Small sstormwa...@yahoo.com wrote: Hi all, This is more of a how-to do sewing technique question, but it does apply to historical clothing. I made up a new silk damask early 16th c. gown, which came out wonderfully for the most part, except for one major problem. The gown was closed down the center front with hooks bars, as it was the only way I could think of to close the center front, doing an overlap. I don't use hooks bars, or eyes, very often for a stressed situation. I usually lace closures shut. Usually I use hooks bars or threadbars on small cuffs or to close a skirt closed where it doesn't show, and/or the item isn't under stress. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Hooks bars problem
Well said, Claudine. Your additional detail describes almost exactly what I've done. (One difference: I bone the lining layer at the closure.) When worn, the undergarments take all the strain, the lining section of the bodice keeps the garment fastened and the outer layers can look like they just blew delicately into place. That's the trick. It should look effortless even tho' we all know it takes 100s of hours to accomplish the feat. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Mon, Oct 18, 2010 at 9:37 AM, cw15147-hcos...@yahoo.com wrote: I thought of a third option, which I used on a Victorian evening bodice recently, that encompasses Cyn's suggestions. Tell me if this is clear: When I made up the lining, I turned the center front and made a casing for a bone. I then set the lining in by hand, and stitched the hooks and eyes in after (I stitched a strip of grosgrain along the edge where they're attached, to give them something more to grab on to than just the lining fabric). The stitches for the hooks and eyes don't go all the way through to the outside fabric because the bone is in between. Result: the strain is on the seam that holds the bone, and there's no strain on the fashion fabric. The fashion fabric is also slightly wider at center from than the lining, so that it covers up any gap. This bodice would've been a perfect application for hooks and eyes set into the seam, but I didn't think of it at the time. Wish I had, so that the inside of the bodice would look tidier. Claudine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
