Stus-List Re: Pedestal brand

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Bob

Can't answer for a '71 C 35, but my '74 Mk2 has a Edson.  When I talk 
to them for a repair kit they had no record/data sheet for the mk2's 
instillation.  But, the tag on inside of pedestal said it was a Edson.


Don Kern
/Fireball,/ C Mk2
Bristol, RI
*
*
On 4/27/2023 10:08 AM, Bob Mann via CnC-List wrote:
Does anyone know the pedestal brand C used in 1971 (35 mk I)?  I've 
been talking with Edson and he doesn't believe it's one of theirs.


Bob

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Stus-List Re: Defender Annual Sale

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Same here - Ordered a gallon of bottom paint from Defender late 
yesterday evening, it was delivered today by 3:00 pm.  Defender had the 
best price i could find.


Don Kern
/Fireball,/ C Mk2
Bristol, RI

On 3/30/2023 3:00 PM, Mike Rose via CnC-List wrote:

FWIW..

I ordered my bottom paint @ 9:30am today, paint was 15% off, my 
Defender 1 discount was added, and over $99 free shipping.

I was notified @ 11:30 from UPS it had shipped.
The Website/checkout experience was nice, bummed that my past order 
history was missing.


Mike R

On Thu, Mar 30, 2023 at 2:23 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
 wrote:


FWIW, the Defender sale started today.  I see some good prices on
bottom paint compared to other sites but not sure of the shipping
charges.

Chuck S
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Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
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Thanks for your help.
Stu
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Sail costs

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

I guess I am a hard  core "club" racer who buys racing sails when the 
current sail becomes too deformed for racing, de-laminates or not enuf 
of remains after it blew out. I have not replaced a sail that was 
younger then 20 yrs old.  In fact my Hood Vectron mainsail is twenty 
years old and still holding decent shape.  The mainsail/rig was modified 
by factory for IOR and has two feet off the boom, thus the #1, #2 and #3 
genoas are all bigger than my main and are the real power sails.  Since 
the new sail will be fairly expensive, I get competitive quotes from the 
local lofts being North, Quantum, Doyle and in the past Hood (now 
Quantum).  My foretriangle is a standard C 35-2 that resides in their 
databases, with all lofts are located around Narragansett Bay they 
understand the local and offshore conditions and can quote an 
appropriate wind range for the sail (material strength/size).  In every 
case, in selecting a sail, the loft will send out a very knowledgeable 
racer who will take measurements, note my sail track layout and discuss 
the wind range for the size. The sails are then manufactured overseas, 
but with the last two sails, they went back to loft for minor adjustment 
and to add spreader and stanchion patches after their representative 
sailed on the boat.  I have even had their representative, while racing 
on another boat, take pictures of my boat an advise me on better sail 
adjustment and crew placement.


Bottom line is in the forty years of owning this boat I have bought the 
more expensive sails for racing that have lasted for years and when 
cruising use their older cousins that still can be hoisted.


Don Kern
/Fireball/, C Mk2
Bristol, RI

On 3/18/2023 12:30 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
My 20 year old Dacron "delivery" sail got shredded in Hurricane 
Sally.  I was quoted $3600-3800 for a Dacron crosscut 155 for my 35-1 
by Ullman and North.  I went with a different sailmaker who came to 
the boat, measured and ordered it from Quantum's offshore 
manufacturing facility in Sri Lanka.  $2700 delivered to my door.  
Probably not the greatest sail I've owned but definitely acceptable 
for day sailing and cruising.


Local lofts are good but I think offshore sails can be a good deal.  
If a local sailmaker measures and orders the sail, you get the benefit 
of a local guy and the efficiency of offshore manufacture.  I suspect 
the offshore manufacturing facilities have proceduralized 
manufacturing and quality control.  Your local loft may not have 
that.  I've bought many sails over the years.  The only two issues 
I've had were with the local loft's manufacturing.  I've only had two 
offshore sails but never had an issue with either.  Both arrived with 
a quality control checklist in the box.


The most important thing is the local sailmaker's knowledge of local 
sailing conditions and the performance characteristics of your boat.


--
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Sat, Mar 18, 2023 at 9:35 AM Bob Mann via CnC-List 
 wrote:


I paid $5400 two years ago in Detroit for a lt/med 155 for my 35
mk I.

Bob

On 03/18/2023 9:54 AM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List
 wrote:


Sail costs:  A new light air genoa was quoted at $5200 for my 36
footer, so I decided instead to have repairs made to my old
sails.   They repaired my #2 for $700. They will alter my #3 for
a little more.  They are removing horizontal battens and
installing vertical battens, and adding UV, so it can be furled. 
I've chosen to use Chesapeake Sailmakers because they are service
oriented, came out and measured my rig before I spent any money,
and they took time to evaluate my sails and offer options.

Wonder what others are paying for new sails and/or repairs.

Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C 34R, Annapolis
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Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
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Stus-List Re: Chandleries

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

For the last 20 years, every March, about four of us locals, use to make 
an annual pilgrimage to Defender and if needed would do a 5 min. run to 
Jamestown Dist. With cut backs at Defender and the closing of 
Jamestown's walk in store, those days are gone.


Chuck, I have found Hamilton's prices for bottom paint are quite good.  
Below I have attached my vendor list which is mostly slanted to the NE:


Don Kern
C Mk2, Fireball
Bristol, RI

General

Defender https://defender.com/en_us/ 

Fisheries Supplyhttps://www.fisheriessupply.com/ 



Hamilton Marinehttps://hamiltonmarine.com/

Hodges Marinehttps://www.hodgesmarine.com 

Jamestown Distributorshttps://www.jamestowndistributors.com/home 



West Marinehttps://www.westmarine.com/ 

Wholesale Marine https://www.wholesalemarine.com/

Electronics /Electrical

Garminhttps://www.garmin.com/en-US/ 

Greg’s Marine Wire Supplyhttps://gregsmarinewiresupply.com/ 



Hodges Marinehttps://www.hodgesmarine.com 

Raymarinehttps://www.raymarine.com/en-us 

The GPS Storethegpsstore.com 

Navigation Software
            Maptechhttps://www.richardsonscharts.com/ 


            The GPS Storethegpsstore.com 
            USCG/NOAA 
Chartshttps://www.charts.noaa.gov/InteractiveCatalog/nrnc.shtml 



Paint

Bottom Paint Storebottompaintstore.com 

Interluxhttps://www.interlux.com/en/us/ 

Rigging

Garhauer Marinehttps://www.garhauermarine.com/ 



Harkenhttps://www.harken.com/en/home/ 

Newport Rigging Group https://www.newportrigginggroup.com/ 



New England Ropeshttps://www.neropes.com/ClubLevelRacing.aspx 



Rig-Rite Inc. https://www.rigrite.com/

Samson https://www.samsonrope.com/index.cfm?page=1=1 



Schaeher Hardwarehttp://schaeferhardware.com/ 

Other

Atkins & Hoyle Ltd (hatches)https://www.atkinshoyle.com/

Edson Marinehttps://edsonmarine.com/shop/sailboat-steering/pedestals/ 



Moyer Marine (Atomic 4)https://moyermarine.com/

South Shore Yachts (C parts)https://southshoreyachts.com/ 



       The Zinc Guyhttps://www.boatzincs.com/index.html



On 3/12/2023 1:51 PM, Novabraid via CnC-List wrote:


Having been a supplier to many marine chandleries over the past 20+ 
years while working for Edson and now Novabraid, there’s definitely 
been some decline in quality retail access in the past 24 months. 
 Surprisingly many of these issues came in the wake of a huge surge in 
retail boat and accessory sales during and just after the height of 
the pandemic and may boat supply businesses had record sales during 
this period, despite some of the supply chain challenges that 
occurred.   Perhaps those business owners are taking their profits to 
the bank and streamlining their sales channels to avoid bankruptcy if 
a recession occurs.   Obviously, prices are rising as a function of 
inflation and transportation costs and many retail business struggle 
to find qualified employees.  West Marine was renowned for hiring 
retirees who would work part time to get the employee discount but I 
think most of those folks have weighed anchor and retired for good.  
My nephew has been an assistant manager at a West Marine for several 
years and they’ve been forced to scale back to a 5 day work week as 
they only had two employees for the entire store, a manager and an 
assistant.


Defender, unfortunately is going through a rather difficult transition 
under new ownership and most of my sailing friends are struggling with 
their new website. They’re currently remodeling the retail outlet, 
downsizing display areas and relying far more on their phone customer 
service team to help with product applications rather than their in 
store counter help.  I’ve been told it will be up to speed in a few 
weeks, but this is the start of boat prep season in New England and 
the Northeast so they could not have picked a worse time to shut down 
the retail store.


One outlet that folks haven’t mentioned is Hamilton Marine up in 
Maine.  They’ve got a pretty comprehensive product selection and 
pricing is typically a bit less than you’ll find at West Marine.  5 
store locations as well.  Not a super discount place, but their staff 
is pretty seasoned without much turnover.  You probably won’t 

Stus-List Re: Furling Sail C 35 Mk I

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Glen,

My C 35 Mk2 carries for racing #1 (155% '22), #2 (137% '07), #2 
reacher (129% '95), #3 (110% '19), and #4 (85% '18).  I usually push my 
sails for 20 yrs - (the older #1 '02 vintage still decent, but not good 
enuf for racing.  For cruising have a furling #2 (137% '98) which I just 
got back from North with a replaced sun cover (no foam), because the sun 
cover's original stitching had failed.  The old reacher is carried on 
board only for long distance racing on Buzzard's Bay, RI Sound and Long 
Island Sound.  The  #2 furling, and #4 were purchased as second-hand 
sails.  Most racing is done with the #1 and  #2, with the #3 and #4 used 
in "remind me that this is FUN!!" conditions.  It is my opinion that a 
furling sail does not hold its aerodynamic shape when you start rolling 
it in. When racing I put reefs in the main before I downsize the genoas. 
JMHO


Don Kern
C Mk2, /Fireball/
Bristol, RI


On 2/28/2023 3:14 PM, Glen Eddie via CnC-List wrote:


Getting a dacron furling sail.  I have a 155% percent racing sail but 
often use my 135% furling sail (dacron) with foam luff. Thoughts from 
the C 35 Mk I/II?


The furling sail is also my main headsail for normal cruising (lazy 
Sundays).



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Stus-List Re: Racing at night

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Martin,

I found a lot of humor in your description in that I pulled a similar 
stunt with a Naval Academy 44 yawl racing from Biloxi to Isla Mujeres 
Mexico. Just NW of Cuba (1967), hit by a squall at oh-dark-thirty, 
spreaders in water, cut spin halyard.  In that race, the only time we 
had significant wind was at night.  We laugh after the fact.


Don Kern
C Mk2, /Fireball/
Bristol, RI


On 2/26/2023 5:46 PM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List wrote:


“A masthead wind instrument works at night.”

Absolutely, except when it doesn’t.  During the 1982 Vic-Maui race on 
a Britt Chance designed 54’ IOR boat in trade winds reinforced by a 
tropical storm nearby (steady high 20’s, gusts to mid 30’s) the wind 
instruments were lagging behind the actual apparent wind enough that 
we needed to improvise.  It was the kind of dark wild night that made 
Mister Toad’s Wild ride seem tame.  We had a reaching spinnaker up 
(slightly smaller sq area and shoulders) with a full mainsail. AWA of 
160 was our target.  Boat speeds were running in the low teens until a 
good surf then headed into the high teens.


I was watch captain with two other, experience crew on deck.  We were 
quickly schooled by the wind gods that relying on the wind instruments 
resulted in being caught by the lee at the end of a surf. (The 
apparent wind goes forward while surfing then quickly back to “base 
line” when the boat slows.)  Naturally being caught by the lee in 
those conditions often resulted in a spin out/round-up/broach, mostly 
to weather. (Spin pole up, boom in the water.)  The owner would 
occasionally stick his head up from below complaining about the ride. 
 I would suggest we were at the top of the spinnaker’s wind range. He 
would indicate maybe we needed better drivers.)


On this particular night we resorted to dividing up the information 
processing tasks.  The helmsman concentrated on the compass using a 
base line course as a guide.  Another crew concentrated on calling out 
AWA as shown by the lighted Windex. (Usually something like “5 high” 
or similar.  When the Windex indicated we were by the lee a noise 
similar to an aircraft’s stall warning buzzer was used.) Driving was 
intense enough we stood ½ hour tricks rotating through the positions.  
This technique allowed us to sail fast, diving deep to ride the best 
waves and limit the spin outs to mostly gentle low impact events.


Until it doesn’t.  At the end of our watch (+-2AM) the new watch gains 
the deck and includes the “hired gun” rock star sailmaker helmsman.  
The rock star guy total ignored my recommendations on how we got 
through the last 4 hours.  He steps behind the wheel (a very large 
diameter wheel popular with IOR boats) and starts sailing like he was 
in charge.  Shortly there after he drives into a leeward broach that 
lays the boat flat enough that the mast head was hitting the top of 
waves and most of the deck crew was left hanging by safety harnesses.  
I imagine it was exciting down below.  The rock star lost his footing 
and rotated “ass over tea kettle” into the leeward corner of the 
cockpit. (Still holding the wheel.)  The mainsail attempted to cross 
to leeward but was trapped by a line wrapped around a coffee grinder 
winch handle.


As I was in the mid/crew cockpit and closest to the line trapping the 
mainsail I pulled out my trusty sailing knife and cut the line (line 
was part of a failed preventer).  As soon as my knife blade touched 
the highly loaded line the mainsail violently crossed to leeward 
splashing into the water. Now that the boat was freed of the tangled 
mainsail load it stood up straight (ish), the spinnaker popped full, 
and the boat took off downwind. Unfortunately the rock star was 
totally disoriented, the rudder still hard over and the boat went into 
another broach therefore completing the coveted “banana split”.


Once we got the boat sorted and back on its feet the owner stuck his 
head up from down below and said “OK boys we can take the spinnaker 
down now”.  We spent the next day or so under twin headsails still 
making speeds in the low teens but under much better control.


Martin DeYoung

Calypso

1971 C 43

Port Ludlow/Seattle

Sent from Mail  for 
Windows


*From: *dwight veinot via CnC-List 
*Sent: *Sunday, February 26, 2023 12:54 PM
*To: *Stus-List 
*Cc: *dwight veinot 
*Subject: *Stus-List Re: Racing at night

A masthead wind instrument works at night. Learn your sail trim vs 
wind speed and wind angle in the daylight. Should be the same in the dark


On Sun, Feb 26, 2023 at 1:01 PM David Knecht via CnC-List 
 wrote:


I just read an interesting article in Practical Sailor on red vs.
white lights and night vision.  It reminded me to ask a question
of those more experienced about night racing.  I have only done
this a few times and found upwind steering at 

Stus-List Re: Secondary winches

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Peter,

I have a C 35-2 with approx. the same fore triangle.  The boat has 
Barient 28s (aft) as primaries and Barient 26s as secondaries (fwd on 
cockpit coaming).  In light to moderate there is no problem with the 
secondaries being used for spin guys and sheets and for doing headsail 
changes. The only con with my setup is that the spin sheet are lead from 
blocks in the aft most position on the rail to the forward secondaries, 
thus are kept aft going upwind and in seting up for the spin run have to 
be rigged over working genoa sheet.  There is no problem with the guys 
since the come aboard amidship, run inboard under the genoa sheets and 
dropped down the companionway.  In preparing for a spin run they are 
just pulled up from the companion way and placed on the secondaries. In 
heavy air we put the spin sheet on the primary, and keep the guys on the 
secondaries. In really heavy air we will switch to the primaries for 
both the spin guy and sheets.


Don kern
C Mk2, /Fireball/
Bristol, RI

On 2/26/2023 1:16 PM, Peter McMinn via CnC-List wrote:


Hey all,

I have the original Barient 28s as primaries on my ‘85 37’ and with 
regular maintenance, they’re still working well and looking ok. Within 
a year, I’ll be acquiring a pair of B 26s of the same vintage that may 
need some work but hey, free winches:)


I’d like to use the 26s as secondaries for spinnaker and sometimes 
headsail sheeting/furling. There’s room on the combing, and the angle 
from a rail block seems workable.


Will this size be suitable for secondary winches? Also, for those who 
use secondaries, what are the pros and cons from your perspective?



Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Racing at night

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

David,

I have raced at night and use a combination of wind instruments, 
masthead wind indicator and a red LED flashlight with zoom to look at 
the lower two genoa telltales.  Also feel of the helm and boat tells me 
when I am getting into trouble.  Being an East Coast boat my mast head 
wind inst. project forward of the mast with a Davis wind indicator on 
the aft portion of the masthead.  The Davis indicator is higher than my 
white masthead running light and its red reflectors can easily be seen 
from the helm (looking up does cause a neck ache).  The two vanes I have 
set at approx 36 deg.  Since my mast is down each year, I carefully 
align the Davis so the vanes are equally off the mast's centerline.


Don Kern

On 2/26/2023 12:01 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote:
I just read an interesting article in Practical Sailor on red vs. 
white lights and night vision.  It reminded me to ask a question of 
those more experienced about night racing.  I have only done this a 
few times and found upwind steering at night to be a real challenge. 
 I normally steer by the genoa telltales.  In light, shifting winds 
which we inevitably encounter at the darkest hours, it is especially 
important to steer well to keep the boat moving, but it is hard.   We 
used a hand held spotlight to periodically check the telltales, but 
that destroys night vision.  Are there better solutions?  Thanks- Dave


S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
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Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
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Stus-List Re: mast blocks

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Dennis,

Isn't your collar restrained by collar brackets on either side of the 
and thru bolted to the mast just below the cabin headliner? These 
brackets transfer the load to the mast and not to cabin top.


Don Kern
Fireball, C Mk2
Bristol, RI


On 10/31/2022 3:54 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:

Bob,

The plate should be a collar.  Not sure what you're trying to do, but 
if you're adding halyard turning blocks, I strongly suggest you 
consider attaching the turning blocks to the mast like this:

Stus-List Re: 35 MK I Mainsheet and Vang

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Chuck,  What size is the jib that you are using the barberhauler rig 
on?  I can't figure how that would work on a genoa with a an LP greater 
than 135%.


Don Kern
/Fireball,/ C 35 Mk2
Bristol, RI

On 10/31/2022 2:01 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List wrote:

Haven't figured how to rig a preventer without going forward but I do use my 
barberhaulers in winds up to ten or fifteen knots as a preventer.  Normally we rig 
barberhaulers to pull the genoa clew out and open the slot between the jib and 
mainsail.  It's a simple rig; about twenty five feet of 5/16" line, going 
through a single block that gets clipped into the toerail at about the widest part 
of the boat with a carabiner on one end, and the other is led to a cleat in the 
cockpit.  I clip the carabiner onto the upper lifeline when not in use and when I 
need to pull the genoa out, I clip it into the sail's clew and pull the line from 
the cockpit.  When I need a preventer, the genoa is poled out and the barberhauler 
is free to be a preventer.  Simply hook the carabiner into a rope loop that lives on 
the boom fitting for the vang, and snug that down, from the cockpit.  It's very 
stable as the vang gets tensioned too, and it prevents the swing from starting if 
the wind gets on the lee sid
  e and buys me time to steer to correct before anything bad happens.

For higher winds, a proper preventer should attach to the aft end of the boom 
and go forward to the bow.

Chuck S

Stus-List Re: Thinking about Chartering Corsair...

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

David,

You may consider coming up to Bristol for the 4th of July parade. It is 
a big deal in RI.  The harbor will be crowded early from the fireworks 
the night before and will be impossible to travel by car.


Have a good time in New England.

Don Kern
/Fireball/, C 35 Mk2
Bristol, RI

On 6/27/2022 10:22 AM, David Risch via CnC-List wrote:


Hello,

We are back in New England and will be aboard Corsair playing through 
the end of July.  The boat, will then sit idle through October.  Seems 
a bit crazy to just have it sit there, especially when I am hearing 
(and seeing) charter rates of $4,000 a week?!


Besides the usual concerns (insurance strangers aboard your boat etc.) 
anybody have experience with a long term or short term charter of your 
own boat and could impart some perspective and reality check.


As always, thanks in advance.

David F. Risch

Managing Director

Great Benefits USA

401-419-4650 - Direct Line

www.greatbenefitsusa.com 



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Stus-List Re: C owners need information

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Dan,

Your boat was registered in the US as /Rainbow /with a USCG registration 
number of  1024202. on Dec 1994 thru Dec 2001.


Interesting that there is another C 44 that has HIN that indicates it 
is also Hull #1 (HIN ZCC44001D485)./  Indigo/, a Canadian vessel was in 
US waters (Southwest Harbor, ME) in June 2019.


Don Kern
/Fireball/, C Mk-2
Bristol, RI


On 6/25/2022 7:22 PM, Dan via CnC-List wrote:

Hi Don,

It was me who started this converstaion on looking up the 
manufacturing location.

Trying to find out if my 1986 C was made in Canada or the US.
My hull number is:
ZCC44001H586

When I look it up online it tells me the boat was made in Aug. 1985 
but not where it was made.


Thanks so much!
Dan

On Sat, Jun 25, 2022, 2:14 PM Don Kern via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Ron,

I have been collecting data on the C for quite a few years and
have run into the problem of what Portsmouth RI actually built due
to the apparent use of both ZCC and CCY for Hull No.  The 38s are
one of the problems with the Landfalls and Mk-2s.  I originally
was under the impression that the LF 38s were built in Portsmouth,
RI with HIN ZCC and Mk-2s only in Canada (HIN - CCY), but have run
into exceptions.

Can you you provide me with a full hull number and where your C
38 Mk-2 was built?

Don Kern
Fireball, C Mk-2
Bristol, RI


On 6/25/2022 12:18 PM, RON CASCIATO via CnC-List wrote:

Hi Dan, not sure if this helps but..some time ago after the
factory closed,  South Shore Yachts in Toronto collected most of
the boat files including something called a "build file".
This file was specific to a single boat and was filed by the hull
number.
They made these files available to owners for $35-50.
I have the one for my 38MKIIC and it is about 50 sheets long and
details the build including drawings and, in my case, a 2 year
later rework of the floor because of "flexing"?
I think Rob Maclachlan finally transferred the remaining
documents to the Marine Museum (I'm not sure of the exact name,
but I do know that some listers have had positive corresoondence
with them).
Hopefully, someone here can fill in the missing info to contact them.
Good luck
Ron C.
Impromptu
C 38MKII, #125, '77

On Jun 25, 2022 6:47 AM, Dan via CnC-List 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Hi all,
Just sending a call out to only C owners who may have any
records showing if their boats were built in Ontario or at
the factory in Rhode Island? Any kind of builders plaque,
builders certificate, an original receipt or even contact
info for someone who has archives from when the factories
closed down? (I know that's a long shot)

Thanks so much!

Dan Cormier
C Breakaweigh
Halifax NS / Florida

Stus-List Re: C owners need information

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Ron,

I have been collecting data on the C for quite a few years and have 
run into the problem of what Portsmouth RI actually built due to the 
apparent use of both ZCC and CCY for Hull No.  The 38s are one of the 
problems with the Landfalls and Mk-2s.  I originally was under the 
impression that the LF 38s were built in Portsmouth, RI with HIN ZCC and 
Mk-2s only in Canada (HIN - CCY), but have run into exceptions.


Can you you provide me with a full hull number and where your C 38 
Mk-2 was built?


Don Kern
Fireball, C Mk-2
Bristol, RI


On 6/25/2022 12:18 PM, RON CASCIATO via CnC-List wrote:
Hi Dan, not sure if this helps but..some time ago after the 
factory closed,  South Shore Yachts in Toronto collected most of the 
boat files including something called a "build file".

This file was specific to a single boat and was filed by the hull number.
They made these files available to owners for $35-50.
I have the one for my 38MKIIC and it is about 50 sheets long and 
details the build including drawings and, in my case, a 2 year later 
rework of the floor because of "flexing"?
I think Rob Maclachlan finally transferred the remaining documents to 
the Marine Museum (I'm not sure of the exact name, but I do know that 
some listers have had positive corresoondence with them).

Hopefully, someone here can fill in the missing info to contact them.
Good luck
Ron C.
Impromptu
C 38MKII, #125, '77

On Jun 25, 2022 6:47 AM, Dan via CnC-List  wrote:

Hi all,
Just sending a call out to only C owners who may have any
records showing if their boats were built in Ontario or at the
factory in Rhode Island? Any kind of builders plaque, builders
certificate, an original receipt or even contact info for someone
who has archives from when the factories closed down? (I know
that's a long shot)

Thanks so much!

Dan Cormier
C Breakaweigh
Halifax NS / Florida

Stus-List Defender

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Defender sale has started.  Not like it has been in the past.  Very 
little savings over their every day Defender pricing and the UPS 
shipping - ouch.  Almost cheaper to go to local West Marine, who will be 
seeing more of my business


Don Kern
/Fireball,/ C Mk2
Bristol, RI

Stus-List Re: Keel wobble

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Jeff

I guess you have the Knack https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g8vHhgh6oM0

Don Kern
/Fireball/, C Mk2
Bristol, RI
Aerospace Eng.

On 3/20/2022 10:52 AM, Jeffrey A. Laman via CnC-List wrote:
I couldn't let this note pass as I believe, as an engineer myself, 
there is some misunderstanding presented regarding the differences 
between engineers, architects, and trades and a confusion of 
terminology.  There are of course superstars and incompetents in every 
professional field.  But, generally, the architect (or scientist, take 
your pick) is the dreamer, the engineer figures out how to make the 
dream a reality (often with a high degree of creativity -- another 
misunderstanding about engineers, that they are dull and 
uncreative...) , and the trades (builders) implement the engineer's 
instructions.  A good, experienced engineer will have spent time in 
the trades, will be able to build anything she/he designs, and 
understands the theory, the stresses, the loads, etc. of whatever is 
built. Engineer's do not just draw lines on paper.  That's a drafter, 
not an engineer.  If a thorough evaluation of a structure's condition 
is desired, and engineer is the best qualified, by far.


Jeff Laman
81 C
"Harmony"
Ludington, MI


*From:* CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
*Sent:* Saturday, March 19, 2022 8:37 PM
*To:* Stus-List ; stephenk...@gmail.com 


*Cc:* CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
*Subject:* Stus-List Re: Keel wobble
First point: No offense to professional naval architects and 
surveyors, but I'd prefer a good boat *builder* look at the boat 
rather than  an engineer.  Engineers are dreamers and they draw lines 
on paper.  Builders know how to build the engineer's dream and how a 
boat and keel should behave and how to fix it and what it will cost.  
Yes, I'd rather have Bruckman's opinion than Cuthbertson.  The builder 
made all those engineer's dreams, all those "lines on paper", into 
boats and come to life.


Second point: Maybe the 25 repair costs more than she's worth.  Buy a 
better and bigger C:  The market is full of low priced C boats. 
There are many seaworthy C on the market for sale.  Many 27's, 
30's, 32's, 34's, 35's, etc.  One of my favorites is the 27 MkV which 
has a decent interior space and can be trailored home for winter storage.


Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C 34R, Annapolis


On 03/19/2022 6:22 PM cenelson--- via CnC-List 
 wrote:



1+ to recommendations for a serious evaluation of this issue by 
someone who really knows boats—naval engineer, architect, whatever, 
unless of course your sailing venue (current and future) is inshore 
in reasonable temperature waters and perhaps within easy reach of 
rescue and that you require all on board to wear PFDs all the time, etc.


Like most on this list, I am game to tackle most any boat repair, 
upgrade, modification, etc. However, and often at significant cost, I 
pay a professional to do jobs that are either beyond my wheelhouse or 
would require so much prep and research that it would take 
forever(allowing for amateur mistakes and redoing certain jobs when 
the first attempt goes ‘awry’ for one reason or another).


For any repair or upgrade that might send the boat to the bottom if 
it went awry (standing rigging replacement, hull deck joint 
refurbishment, centerboard pennant replacement, stuffing box issues, 
cutlass bearing replacement, etc.) I use a pro.


Of course with a ‘well found’ boat like C, there is seldom an 
issue with a design flaw at the seaworthy level—in fact I am 
confident that my boat design, whatever the details, resulted in a 
boat that is ‘smarter’ than her skipper and she will only permit me 
to screw things up but so far before her design saves my a— once again!


Most boat issues really aren’t ‘rocket science’ and are amenable to 
reasonable DIY fixes. IMHO, this keel wobble issue probably requires 
a nautical ‘rocket scientist’ (naval engineer, architect, etc. to 
have a look!


Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
1985 C XL/kcb
Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS 
 

Stus-List Re: Defender sale scheduled this month

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Well after 20 years of making the March pilgrimage to Waterford, it 
looks like It won't be doing it any more.  Always seemed to come home 
with twice what was on my buying list.


Don Kern
/Fireball/, C MK2
Bristol, RI

=
Bon Voyage Warehouse Sale, Hello Spring Launch Sale!
Yes, it is true, after 25 years we have said a fond farewell to our 
beloved Annual Warehouse Sale.


Defender Spring Launch Sale
Over 60,000 Products on Sale Throughout the Site!
Online Spring Launch Sale
Sunday, March 27, 2022 — Sunday, April 3, 2022
All deals, specials and promotions will be available ONLINE
No vendors, in-store specials, or giveaways will be going on in the 
store during the Spring Launch Sale

Outlet Store will be open to the public during regular store hours
Max of 40 customers allowed at a time
Please be prepared for lines and wait times
Store Pick-Up available

On 3/4/2022 2:31 PM, John McCrea via CnC-List wrote:


I live locally to Defender and I have had my online basket full for a 
few months waiting on the sale. One new thing this year is that locals 
will have a pre sale event with vendors that will offer the discounts 
before the online sale begins. It is the week prior. Only 40 in the 
warehouse at a time so I suspect long lines. I have not seen any 
change in pricing yet and can hope that at least this year that they 
still have the good deals that we are used to. I will report back to 
the list in regards to what I am seeing for pricing.


Regards,

John McCrea

Talisman

1979 36-1

Mystic, CT


Custom laser engraved cutting boards are available at the C Photo Album site.

Stus-List Re: Mystic Seaport Panorama Exhibit

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Chuck

Agree it is an amazing painting.  I saw it when it was at the New 
Bedford Whaling museum.  I wonder where it will go next?


Don Kern

On 3/8/2022 3:46 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List wrote:
FYI, Mystic Seaport in Connecticut is losing an amazing exhibit March 
27th.  It is the pictoral story of a whaling ship travelling around 
the world. The story is told in a moving painting (this is before 
movies) and is truly worth the trip if you enjoy history of that period.


From their website:
In 1848, New Bedford artists Benjamin Russell and Caleb Purrington 
announced to the world they had completed their /Grand Panorama of a 
Whaling Voyage ‘Round the World/. Russell was an emerging artist and 
bankrupt whaling investor who had just spent 42 months (1841-1844) on 
a whaling voyage to the Indian Ocean and North Pacific aboard the ship 
/Kutusoff/. When he returned, Purrington joined him in creating this 
massive painting as a commercial enterprise for public entertainment. 
Performed as a moving panorama, this 1,275-foot long and 8-foot high 
painting was separated onto four alternating spools, which were 
mounted in a theater or public hall for a paid performance. It toured 
the East, transported by train, ship, and wagon to Boston, New York 
and as far West as St. Louis.


For more info:
https://www.mysticseaport.org/explore/exhibits/the-grand-panorama/?utm_source=wordfly_medium=email_campaign=March8%2C2022_content=Panorama_version_A 
 



Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C 34R Annapolis

There are no links in this footer.
Custom laser engraved cutting boards are available at the C Photo Album site.

Stus-List Re: List The attachments are driving me nuts

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Stu,

I have had no problems with CnC-List emails.  Android phone or tablet 
and computer (Thunderbird email ap).


Don Kern


On 3/7/2022 1:51 PM, Stu via CnC-List wrote:


Folks I have tried and tried to find the problem.  The IT group that
maintains our list program assure me it is not the problems. The program
only relays what is sent to it and makes no changes.

I tried contacting several email servers whose customers were
experiencing problems, and I might as well talk to the wind.

The problems are very sporadic and are not consistent by any means. I
have several email accounts all with different providers and do not any
problems.  So I cannot relate to the problems.

I am still using Windows Live Mail from Windows Essentials (no longer
available) and Thunderbird Mail.  Both programs access all of my email
accounts and neither has shown any problems.

I don't know what to suggest at this time except for you to experiment
and try a different email app on your smartphone, laptop or desktop
computers.

I keep trying to find the problem and the solution but right now things
do not look good.

Stu

Customized C Cutting Boards available at:
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards

Customized C Cutting Boards available at:
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards

Stus-List Re: Forward hatch gasket needed

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Bob

Right now my fwd hatch is at Atkins & Hoyle in Canada for a full 
refurb.  They should be able to help.  Brian was very accommodating, his 
contact info below.  I tried a gasket replacement from West Marine and 
it was a little too big in diameter.


Brian Atkins
Atkins & Hoyle LTD
180 Kimmetts side rd
Napanee Ontario Canada K7R3L2
Ph. (613) 354 1919
Fx. (416) 596 8989
www.AtkinsHoyle.com

Don Kern
/Fireball,/ C Mk2
Bristol RI

On 2/12/2022 1:51 PM, Bob Mann via CnC-List wrote:

The foam gasket on my C mk I's forward hatch is coming apart. Can anyone 
suggest where I can find a replacement?  Nothing I've seen at hardware stores even 
comes close to what is already there.

regards,
Bob Mann
Mystic
Detroit

Stus-List PHRF named vessels

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Chuck,

That will take some time to work it out.  What I have to do is go to 
each PHRF region and pull up the last couple of years PHRF rating 
records and sort on the C  During the winter a lot of the northern 
regions do maintenance/update their records so are not always 
available.  I will let you know if I come up with any new boats. I also 
noted that you tracking their PHRF rating, I will give you those 
numbers, but in most cases it is the adjusted number off the base 
rating.  PHRF-NB does show all three ratings ( Spin, non-spin, base).


Lastly, the US Sailing data base is really only a reference, since it is 
up to the individual PHRF regions to update their records in the US 
Sailing database.  The best I can tell very few regions are continuing 
to do that. Look at the dates when the data was entered.  This is mostly 
due to US Sailing lack of support to Offshore PHRF fleet.  US Sailing 
seems to be**concentrating on the Olympics and IRC, ORC ratings, the big 
ticket items, due to limited staffing and funds.  For the last six 
months PHRF-NB has been trying to get the US Sailing's Offshore 
committee to sponsor a zoom/in-person meeting of all the regions to 
discuss the items of concern to the PHRF regions.  We offered to help 
organize such a meeting since they are local with HQ at Roger Williams 
Univ, in Bristol - multi emails, telcalls and in person with great words 
- but crickets.


Don Kern
/Fireball/, C Mk2
Commodore, PHRF-NB
Bristol, RI


On 2/1/2022 10:56 AM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER wrote:

Hey Don,

I think I better understand your list of PHRF base ratings.  I count 
44 rated vessels.  My list shows only 24 rated vessels.  I wonder if 
it wouldn't be too much trouble to generate a list of 34/36 vessels 
with PHRF ratings.


It may locate a few more hulls.

Thanks,
Chuck

Stus-List Re: C Cutting Boards are ready

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Stu

Had a problem with Paypal, when I confirm it says I am missing phone 
number and when I return there is no phone number entry field.


Don Kern


On 1/14/2022 12:35 PM, Stu via CnC-List wrote:
Finally – here is the link to order the C Cutting Boards -- 
http://cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards/

If you find problems with the site, please let me know ASAP.  Thanks.
Stay safe ‘n’ healthy
Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray   Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Bottom Paints Again

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Dean,

I use the same paint on my 35 Mk2.  Applied two light coats of CSC with 
a paint sprayer every year (just under a gallon) with the same results 
that you saw.  I do paint the bronze prop shaft and Martec folding 
prop., but get some barnacles on the shaft and some near hub of prop, 
none on the hull.  I also tape out the area where I put the zinc donut. 
Since I do race, I do a light rub of the hull to remove the scum about 
once a month.


Don Kern
/Fireball,/ C Mk2
Bristol, RI




On 10/25/2021 3:36 PM, Dean McNeill via CnC-List wrote:
First full season for me with my C 34 and I used Interlux Micron 
CSC, as that’s what the previous owner ’thought’ was on it when I 
bought it. A good friend has also used it on his Tartan 3700 for years 
with good results.


I used 2 to 3 coats after a light sanding of the previous coat(s) and 
it has worked very well. Five months moored in the Northwest Arm in 
Halifax NS and it was surprisingly super clean when it came out at end 
of season… a little green scum in places but that’s it! Stainless prop 
shaft was caked with barnacles and growth, so I’m guessing bottom 
paint worked great where it was applied!


Does anyone  coat their stainless prop shaft (or brass folding prop) 
with bottom paint?


Dean


On Oct 25, 2021, at 9:17 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Hi Bill- Can you clarify what you used?  I looked at the Pettit site 
and there was nothing called Odyssey Trinidad.  There was an Odyssey 
Triton?   Dave


S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



On Oct 23, 2021, at 2:16 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
 wrote:


I know this subject is as old as boats, but I think I commented in 
the spring that I was trying a brand new paint and would report in 
the fall, so here it is.  It is raining and chilly and not much else 
going on in the NE, so . ..
The paint is Pettit Odyssey Trinidad, and when I hauled a week ago 
the results were nothing less than amazing. All of the clubs haul 
out guys (and girl) were in awe, and said it was the cleanest boat 
the have hauled this year.
There was some scum from the bow back amidships and going down a few 
inches, mostly on the north side, oddly enough.  But the rest was 
amazingly clean. Of note, here in the Great Lakes over the last 10 
years or so there has been some new growth that no one seems to know 
anything about, looks like a spider web growing all over the bottom, 
and there was NONE of that. No Zebra Mussels, nothing.
It is called ablative, but it is nowhere near as ablative as the 
previous year’s paint, very little came off with the pressure 
washer. Also, it called for two initial coats, I only used one. It 
goes on nice, and what I liked is that there is no heavy copper 
falling out, you don’t seem to need to keep stirring it as you go. 
In fact, I don’t think it has copper as we know it, Three 
Ingredients, Copper Thiocyanate, Econea, and Zinc Pyrithione.   I 
wouldn’t consider it a racing paint, but after a month, I might. One 
of the guys hauled his First 40 out and cleaned it (VC17) for the 
last race two weeks before his final haulout, and his bottom was a 
mess, complete with ‘spiderwebs’ and Zebra Mussels. He was amazed to 
see how much scum was back on 2 weeks later.

I think it’s the Zinc . .  . .Also, a $30 rebate going on.
Bill Coleman
Entrada, Erie, PA
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to 
help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to 
the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the 
list - use PayPal to send contribution -- 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu



Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray   Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Engine controls and Auto Pilots

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Chuck
minor typo!  Fat fingers!! - should have been 20 kts not 29.
Don

On 10/22/2021 2:51 PM, Don Kern via CnC-List wrote:

Chuck

I have a C 35 Mk2 that has the older Raymarine ST4000 autopilot 
which is being used at its upper limits.  It does Ok up to about 20kts 
on Narra Bay, Buzzards Bay and Long Island Sound. Have never engaged 
it above 20 kts. The only problem I have had is the the three plastic 
"U" brackets that connect the unit to the helms spoke have cracked and 
needed to be replaced.  I think this was due to the Edson pedestal's 
brake which has become none functional and I initially used the 
Autohelm to lock the rudder when at anchor/mooring.  Not too smart!!


Don Kern
/Fireball, /C Mk2
Bristol, RI


On 10/22/2021 12:10 PM, Novabraid via CnC-List wrote:


I’m contemplating adding a new wheel mount auto pilot (Raymarine 
EV-100) on my 1983 Landfall 35, equipped with an Edson 737 dual lever 
engine control (the type with the two extra stainless tubes that 
carry the control cables). I was curious to see if anyone on the list 
may have attempted to add this style auto pilot to their boat using 
the same engine control to see if there were any clearance issues 
between the autopilot motor/drive unit and the control housing.  This 
type engine control extends below the top of the pedestal (beneath 
the compass) and has up/down levers on port and starboard.


I am aware that I’m at the top end of the displacement range for a 
wheel pilot, however my main reason for wanting a pilot in the first 
place is to facilitate single handing the boat for setting and 
dousing sails as well as picking up moorings, etc.  I’m not looking 
to cross oceans, just simple coastal cruising but since my primary 
crew member has moved out West, not having an auto pilot means the 
boat will sit on the mooring far more often.   A below deck pilot 
brings with it the challenge of where to mount the drive unit and the 
cost of the more expensive pilot, the Edson tiller arm, and the 
fabrication of a shelf to mount the drive unit.


Thanks for any advice.

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 Landfall 35

Padanaram, MA


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray   Thanks - Stu



Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray   Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Engine controls and Auto Pilots

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Chuck

I have a C 35 Mk2 that has the older Raymarine ST4000 autopilot which 
is being used at its upper limits.  It does Ok up to about 20kts on 
Narra Bay, Buzzards Bay and Long Island Sound.  Have never engaged it 
above 29 kts. The only problem I have had is the the three plastic "U" 
brackets that connect the unit to the helms spoke have cracked and 
needed to be replaced.  I think this was due to the Edson pedestal's 
brake which has become none functional and I initially used the Autohelm 
to lock the rudder when at anchor/mooring.  Not too smart!!


Don Kern
/Fireball, /C Mk2
Bristol, RI


On 10/22/2021 12:10 PM, Novabraid via CnC-List wrote:


I’m contemplating adding a new wheel mount auto pilot (Raymarine 
EV-100) on my 1983 Landfall 35, equipped with an Edson 737 dual lever 
engine control (the type with the two extra stainless tubes that carry 
the control cables). I was curious to see if anyone on the list may 
have attempted to add this style auto pilot to their boat using the 
same engine control to see if there were any clearance issues between 
the autopilot motor/drive unit and the control housing.  This type 
engine control extends below the top of the pedestal (beneath the 
compass) and has up/down levers on port and starboard.


I am aware that I’m at the top end of the displacement range for a 
wheel pilot, however my main reason for wanting a pilot in the first 
place is to facilitate single handing the boat for setting and dousing 
sails as well as picking up moorings, etc.  I’m not looking to cross 
oceans, just simple coastal cruising but since my primary crew member 
has moved out West, not having an auto pilot means the boat will sit 
on the mooring far more often.   A below deck pilot brings with it the 
challenge of where to mount the drive unit and the cost of the more 
expensive pilot, the Edson tiller arm, and the fabrication of a shelf 
to mount the drive unit.


Thanks for any advice.

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 Landfall 35

Padanaram, MA


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray   Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: help with hull numbers

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Joel
802550 is the active Transport Canada registration of WHISTLER II TORONTO
Don

On 10/15/2021 9:32 AM, Joel Delamirande via CnC-List wrote:

For your record
1973 Cnc 30 mk1 HIN ccy301900673
On 802550 hull I think 767
Or rt 767

On Sun, Oct 10, 2021 at 10:38 PM Joseph Bognar via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


My 79 30-1 has a serial number of
ZCC 30535M79F

Sent from Joe Bognar



On Oct 10, 2021, at 9:31 PM, Joel Delamirande via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:



Don do u need my HIN
On Thu, Oct 7, 2021 at 7:02 PM Don Kern via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Andrew,

It appears to be correct HIN, given the hull numbers that
immediately proceeding and following your Boat.  I believe
'74 was the forth year of production fr the 30s.

1974C 30 MK1  267
CCY302670274690812-xSnowbird
1974C 30 MK1  281
CCY302810474
1974C 30 MK1  299
CCY302990674603216-bSlice
1974C 30 MK1  301
CCY303010774Halcyon







By the way what is her name and home port?

Don Kern
/Fireball/, C Mk2
Bristol, RI



On 10/7/2021 8:14 PM, andrew_m--- via CnC-List wrote:


Hi! I’m the proud owner of a C 30 mk1 with HIN
CCY302810474. I’m trying to work out what hull number I
have. From what I’ve googled the “0474” tells me she was
built in April of 1974, the “CCY30” tells me she’s a C 30
mk1, and the “281” says she’s hull number 281 ??? April 1974
seems a little early in the production run to have made 280
boats. Can anyone help me decode the HIN?


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  
<https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>   Thanks - Stu


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list
to help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your
support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution --
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
<https://www.paypal.me/stumurray> Thanks - Stu

-- 
Joel Delamirande

*www.jdroofing.ca <http://www.jdroofing.ca>*

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to
help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support
to the list - use PayPal to send contribution --
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
 Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to
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--
Joel Delamirande
*www.jdroofing.ca <http://www.jdroofing.ca>*


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Stus-List Re: leeward layline

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Jeff,

Let me assume that your boat is similar in performance to my 35 Mk2 and 
the wind / currents are similar to what we have in New England. That 
said I hardly ever worry about sailing to the laylines.  First, hardly 
ever is the leeward mark set dead downwind and there should be a 
preferred side of the course to sail which may be modified due to tidal 
currents.   You figure that out before you start and set the pole and 
guy/sheet appropriately.  Then you watch to see what lead class of boats 
due upon rounding windward mark to confirm the downwide course settings, 
if you are not in he fist class to start. When you round that mark your 
fist imperative is to clear your wind either reaching , bearing off or 
jibing. Next, if you are in the lead, is cover your most threatening 
competitors, if not in the lead keeping your wind clear and if wind is 
light to moderate sail to the favorable current (max or min depending on 
current direction). Because of my boat's older design I sail deeper 
downwind for max VMG then the newer boats which sail closer to a reach 
(wider down wind angles).  Strategy and tactics usually will keep me 
away from the layline which limit my options.  If I am the lead boat I 
try set up so rounding is just get the chute down and harden up without 
sailing into the lee of the competitors.  Normally because I have sailed 
deeper and have avoided the laylines, the newer competitors are 
approaching from wider outside angle and my tactic is to protect from 
being overlapped to the inside as I get to the 3 boat circle.


From the above you can see I hardly ever sail off into the wild blue 
yonders of the laylines, Strategy and then tactics predominate my down 
wind sailing.


Don Ken
Fireball, C Mk2
Bristol, RI



On 10/12/2021 8:33 AM, Jeff Nelson via CnC-List wrote:

I'm really not following your math here.
Perhaps some clarification:
TWA = True Wind Angle (I think you refer to that as TWD True Wind 
Direction below) ie 270?

Course  = 230 deg
Tacking Angle = 80 deg
New Course = 310 deg
Course to Leeward Mark = ?

This statement is confusing to me:
"So, when the windward mark is at a bearing of 80* I'm on the leeward 
layline"
In this example we are going to the Leeward Mark (downwind mark).  I 
believe you are heading to the port layline,

The windward mark would be the one you previously rounded.

With all of the above...It seems like an aweful lot of math to do in 
the heat of the battle.  Since you likely know the
course to the mark, and you've already determined your gybing range 
(80 deg).  Isn't it easier to add or subtract 80 to
your course to see if it matches the bearing to the mark?  This can be 
achieved from your chart plotter BTW (Bearing to
waypoint) or via handheld compass if you can see the mark.  Maybe 
that's what the math below does, if I plugged in
the right numbers, but the closest I could get was 180 - course (230) 
= 310 but if I multiply that by 2 I get a course of
260 which wouldn't be your layline, as you need a course of 310. Also, 
if I use any of those course numbers, they will
remain constant, whereas the bearing to the mark will constantly 
change as you get further from the rhumbline (dead down wind).


Cheers,
   Jeff Nelson
   Muir Caileag
   C - 549
   Armdale Yacht Club

On 2021-10-11 10:07 p.m., Bob Mann via CnC-List wrote:

My geometry for calculating leeward layline:
If my ideal heading for the current conditions is 230* and TWD is 
270*, that means my stern has to swing 40* to become dead downwind, 
and another 40* to get to the reciprocal course after the jibe.  In a 
perfect scenario, this means an 80* swing.  So, when the windward 
mark is at a bearing of 80* I'm on the leeward layline.  Bearing to 
the mark can thus be calculated as 2 x (180-TWA).

Bob

On 10/08/2021 11:15 AM Bob Mann  wrote:
I still need to review the geometry, but I believe that when the 
bearing to the mark is equal to 180-TWA, one has reached the 
downwind layline.  I also found that when the masthead is pointing 
at the mark, that also indicates the layline has been reached.

Bob
On 10/06/2021 11:17 AM Jeff Nelson via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Hmmm...Interesting question.

So, Ed's answer was pretty good, I'll add a few thoughts here:

AW isn't an ideal guide, True wind is what is needed so that you 
can keep the angle to true wind to be constant on

either Gybe, assuming you know what the best angle is.
If you can find polar's for your boat, they will give you an idea 
of ideal.
As Ed mentioned, VMG is your friend in determining what the best 
angle is (especially if no polars are available).
You can experiment in different wind speeds to find a reasonably 
good angle for windspeed and VMG.


Here's a good article to get you thinking:
http://www.oceansail.co.uk/Articles/VMGArticle.php

Hope this helps.
Jeff Nelson
Muir Caileag
C 30 549
Armdale Yacht Club

On 2021-10-06 12:02 p.m., Bob Mann via CnC-List wrote:
I'm fairly new to flying a spinnaker.  I did it last weekend 

Stus-List Re: help with hull numbers

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Joe

You have C 30 MK1 # 535 Registered in Jan 1979

Boat name and Home port?

Don Kern
/Fireball/, C Mk2
Bristol, RI



On 10/10/2021 10:38 PM, Joseph Bognar via CnC-List wrote:

My 79 30-1 has a serial number of
ZCC 30535M79F

Sent from Joe Bognar


On Oct 10, 2021, at 9:31 PM, Joel Delamirande via CnC-List 
 wrote:




Don do u need my HIN
On Thu, Oct 7, 2021 at 7:02 PM Don Kern via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Andrew,

It appears to be correct HIN, given the hull numbers that
immediately proceeding and following your Boat.  I believe '74
was the forth year of production fr the 30s.

1974C 30 MK1  267
CCY302670274690812-xSnowbird
1974C 30 MK1  281
CCY302810474
1974C 30 MK1  299
CCY302990674603216-bSlice
1974C 30 MK1  301
CCY303010774Halcyon







By the way what is her name and home port?

Don Kern
/Fireball/, C Mk2
Bristol, RI



On 10/7/2021 8:14 PM, andrew_m--- via CnC-List wrote:


Hi! I’m the proud owner of a C 30 mk1 with HIN CCY302810474.
I’m trying to work out what hull number I have. From what I’ve
googled the “0474” tells me she was built in April of 1974, the
“CCY30” tells me she’s a C 30 mk1, and the “281” says she’s
hull number 281 ??? April 1974 seems a little early in the
production run to have made 280 boats. Can anyone help me decode
the HIN?


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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send 
contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  
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--
Joel Delamirande
*www.jdroofing.ca <http://www.jdroofing.ca>*

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Stus-List Re: help with hull numbers

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Joel
The highest number I tracked for a 30mk1 is hull #801 in 1981,  Then 
they commenced  the 30 Mk2s in 1981 the starting over from #1.

Don Kern
/Fireball/, C Mk2
Bristol, RI



On 10/7/2021 10:07 PM, andrew macLean via CnC-List wrote:

Thanks Randy!

If #1 was 1971 and #79 was 1972 C could be making 70 hulls a year. 
Then there’s that the 74 portion of the HIN doesn’t necessarily mean 
when the boat was built but the earliest it could have been built. My 
boat being #281 does make sense. Wow that’s a lot of boats in a short 
time.


Andrew

On Oct 7, 2021, at 6:41 PM, Randy Stafford 
 wrote:


 Hello Andrew,

You have decoded correctly.  Except technically 0474 is the month and 
year that C Yachts certified your boat met all the regulations it 
was supposed to meet (according to 
https://newboatbuilders.com/docs/HIN-101-for-boat-owners-part2.pdf 
).


I own 30 MK I hull #79 which was built in 1972 before HINs were 
standardized.  My boat’s HIN is simply 30007972.  I confirmed via Rob 
Ball and Rob Mazza that I have hull #79, built in 1972 (I initially 
thought I had hull #7).  Rick Bushie on this list has hull #1, named 
Anchovy, and it was built in 1971.  He previously wrote: "The I.D. 
plate on Anchovy reads as follows: 30  1  71.  No zeros, no month.”


Cheers,
Randy Stafford
SV Grenadine
C 30 MK I #79
Ken Caryl, CO

On Oct 7, 2021, at 6:14 PM, andrew_m--- via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Hi! I’m the proud owner of a C 30 mk1 with HIN CCY302810474. I’m 
trying to work out what hull number I have. From what I’ve googled 
the “0474” tells me she was built in April of 1974, the “CCY30” 
tells me she’s a C 30 mk1, and the “281” says she’s hull number 
281 ??? April 1974 seems a little early in the production run to 
have made 280 boats. Can anyone help me decode the HIN?


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to 
help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to 
the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  
 Thanks - Stu




Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu


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Stus-List Re: help with hull numbers

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Andrew,

It appears to be correct HIN, given the hull numbers that immediately 
proceeding and following your Boat.  I believe '74 was the forth year of 
production fr the 30s.


1974C 30 MK1  267
CCY302670274690812-xSnowbird
1974C 30 MK1  281
CCY302810474
1974C 30 MK1  299
CCY302990674603216-bSlice
1974C 30 MK1  301
CCY303010774Halcyon







By the way what is her name and home port?

Don Kern
/Fireball/, C Mk2
Bristol, RI



On 10/7/2021 8:14 PM, andrew_m--- via CnC-List wrote:


Hi! I’m the proud owner of a C 30 mk1 with HIN CCY302810474. I’m 
trying to work out what hull number I have. From what I’ve googled the 
“0474” tells me she was built in April of 1974, the “CCY30” tells me 
she’s a C 30 mk1, and the “281” says she’s hull number 281 ??? April 
1974 seems a little early in the production run to have made 280 
boats. Can anyone help me decode the HIN?



Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu


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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: leeward layline

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Bob

Your getting good answers, however you did not tell us your boat model 
our type of spinnaker you have (Symmetrical or Asymmetrical). Both will 
make a difference.  Ed advice of not sailing to the laylines but keeping 
to middle is best for the reasons he stated. Especially if your C was 
an IOR design built before 1980 and sail deep downwind.  Later boats 
will sail closer to reach angles for best VMG downwind.  Asyms can not 
be sailed deep downwind and are sailed closer to a reach.


Don Kern
/Fireball,/ C MK2
Bristol, RI



On 10/6/2021 11:17 AM, Jeff Nelson via CnC-List wrote:

Hmmm...Interesting question.

So, Ed's answer was pretty good, I'll add a few thoughts here:

AW isn't an ideal guide, True wind is what is needed so that you can 
keep the angle to true wind to be constant on

either Gybe, assuming you know what the best angle is.
If you can find polar's for your boat, they will give you an idea of 
ideal.
As Ed mentioned, VMG is your friend in determining what the best angle 
is (especially if no polars are available).
You can experiment in different wind speeds to find a reasonably good 
angle for windspeed and VMG.


Here's a good article to get you thinking:
http://www.oceansail.co.uk/Articles/VMGArticle.php

Hope this helps.
Jeff Nelson
Muir Caileag
C 30 549
Armdale Yacht Club

On 2021-10-06 12:02 p.m., Bob Mann via CnC-List wrote:
I'm fairly new to flying a spinnaker.  I did it last weekend in a 
race and I believe I overstood the mark as we were sailing 110 AW 
before the gybe and 85 AW heading directly to the mark.

How does one determine when to gybe?
Bob

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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
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	Virus-free. www.avast.com 
 



<#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>

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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu


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Stus-List Re: halyard/sheet bags

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Concur wish Josh.  Racing the halyards are drop straight down the 
companionway, less chance of tangle.  Cruising they are coiled and 
placed over their winches..


Don Kern
C Mk2
/Fireball,/ 12708
Bristol, RI

On 8/14/2021 6:33 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:
All the cabin top lines just get sent down the companionway.  They 
hang straight and stay relatively untangled.  The jib sheets are cut 
to length such that they only have a few feet of tail.  Never really 
have too much problem with just those 2 lines being staged on the 
cockpit floor or on the bench.  Any bag solutions I've ever seen or 
considered are just more trouble to load and unload and untangle.  I 
alway consider the potential need to dump a sail in an emergency.  A 
bag of spaghetti isn't helpful in that situation.  YMMV


Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Sat, Aug 14, 2021, 17:52 CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Hey guys,
What is everybody using for halyard bags for the lines next to the
companionway and also sheet bags for the genoa sheets.  Anybody
have suggestions?  Pictures?
Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C 34R
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help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to
the list - use PayPal to send contribution --
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
Thanks - Stu


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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu


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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
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Stus-List Re: George Harding Cuthbertson's Binder 1982 - 2008

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

another donation.
Don Kern
/Fireball/, C Mk2
Brisyol, RI

On 8/9/2021 2:50 PM, John Christopher via CnC-List wrote:

Hey There,

I have made a donation.

/John

On Aug 9, 2021, at 11:28 AM, JohnKelly Cuthbertson via CnC-List 
 wrote:


I have the next binder ready for your evening reading at the Dock.

Now if I could impose on you kind folks to help me and the Marine 
Museum of the Great Lakes in Kingston out.  The museums fundraiser to 
digitize their collection of C drawings has been stuck at $1125 for 
a while.  If I could nudge a few of you to help them out, I'll 
release the next binder when the total hits $1500.


Hopefully we can do this, they have a long way to go to meet their 
goal, but every bit helps.


I want to thank all those that have contributed already.

https://www.canadahelps.org/en/dn/60975

JohnKelly Cuthbertson




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with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the 
list - use PayPal to send contribution -- 
  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C Forward "Bulkhead"

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Shawn,

An anchor locker on a 35 mk2 ??  My Mk2 has only a open rode locker 
forward of the v-berths with a series of limber holes leading aft, no 
floor , just the v of the hull at the bow.  Two Danforths anchors  (14 & 
25 lb) are carried in the port cockpit locker, not at all convent for 
cruising, but good for racing.  There are plastic chocks to hold the 14 
lb on the companionway cover for lunch and evening stops.


Don kern
/Fireball,/ C Mk2
Bristol, RI

On 5/27/2021 2:47 PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List wrote:
Lots of good info on this thread. I'm not too familiar with the 33-2, 
but will share a bit of what was done (by the PO) on my 35-2 which 
might be relevant if the water from the anchor locker is a problem (it 
appears to be from higher up though). On the 35-2, the original anchor 
locker appears to have had a "floor" above the hull. This was cut out 
to allow the chain to fall all the way down. The new lower locker was 
then glassed all the way around, and a drain pipe glassed in, with a 
hose running through the vberth lockers and exiting into the bilge 
just aft of the mast. This seems to have worked well at keeping the 
water where it should be, as I've never had a drop of moisture under 
the vberth (and the Lofrans Progress 1 windlass loves to rinse the 
chain in heavy rain). The added benefit is that my 135' of chain is a 
bit lower in the boat, and there is more freefall if I want to add 
more chain (previously there was 200'). The original large access hole 
was filled in and a ~12x12" door installed for checking on the chain & 
rode.


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Documenting the boat

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Dennis

Thank you for keeping me straight.  Don't even know why that came up on 
my bookmarks - gone now. Haven't used them. My comment about the ease of 
use was for the National Vessel Documentation Center (NVDC) at the email 
that you cited. There is a vast difference between $26 and $75.  For 
that $75 you could get almost a three year renewal from NVDC.


Don Kern
/Fireball,/ C Mk2
Bristol, RI


On 5/14/2021 4:31 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
I don't think that is the official USCG site. 
<https://maritimedocumentation.us/ 
<https://maritimedocumentation.us/>> is a third party private 
service.  No problem using them, it will just cost a bunch more and 
take longer.


The official, and MUCH cheaper, USCG site is:

https://www.dco.uscg.mil/Our-Organization/Deputy-for-Operations-Policy-and-Capabilities-DCO-D/National-Vessel-Documentation-Center/ 
<https://www.dco.uscg.mil/Our-Organization/Deputy-for-Operations-Policy-and-Capabilities-DCO-D/National-Vessel-Documentation-Center/>


Here's the instructions for initial documentation:

https://www.dco.uscg.mil/Portals/9/DCO%20Documents/NVDC/INITIAL.pdf?ver=2018-12-28-130935-913 
<https://www.dco.uscg.mil/Portals/9/DCO%20Documents/NVDC/INITIAL.pdf?ver=2018-12-28-130935-913>


I had an issue with Touche's documentation.  The previous owner failed 
to clear a lien.  The folks at the "real" vessel documentation center 
were fairly helpful in resolving the issue.

  --
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
On Fri, May 14, 2021 at 3:11 PM Don Kern via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Andy
I had to redo mine when I added my son as 50% owner.  Did it all
on the USCG web site <https://maritimedocumentation.us/>
<https://maritimedocumentation.us/> and found it straight
forward.  You can always try the site and see if it works for
you.  If not, you can always try to find a reasonable service.

Don Kern
/Fireball,/ C Mk2
Bristol, RI



Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Documenting the boat

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Andy
I had to redo mine when I added my son as 50% owner.  Did it all on the 
USCG web site  and found it straight 
forward.  You can always try the site and see if it works for you.  If 
not, you can always try to find a reasonable service.


Don Kern
/Fireball,/ C Mk2
Bristol, RI

On 5/14/2021 3:35 PM, Chuck Borge via CnC-List wrote:
Maybe my experience was not typical, but it was pretty easy if you 
have the required documents referred to on the USCG site.
Proof of ownership and any PO liens released then a transfer form if 
she is already documented and you’re there.

Takes a while and was regular mail a few years ago, but not hard to do.
Good luck,
Chuck Borge
C
Tenacious
Somerset, MA

Sent from my iPhone

On May 14, 2021, at 3:11 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
 wrote:


 So my “charter” is up and I now officially own Masquerade. Now I 
have to document her. How difficult is the process to do yourself? 
Any tips or advice would be much appreciated.
I could use a service but the president of our local service has 
always been pretty miserable to deal with so I don’t particularly 
want to spend my money there.

Andy

Andrew Burton
26 Beacon Hill
Newport, RI
USA 02840

+401 965 5260
https://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ 




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with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the 
list - use PayPal to send contribution -- 
  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: USCG documentation renewal

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

And by the way this is the last year you can renew with anything less 
than 5 years.  Next year only 5 year renewals will be available.


Don Kern
/Fireball,/ C Mk2
Bristol, RI

On 5/4/2021 2:11 PM, Matthew via CnC-List wrote:


FYI, the five-year renewal already started.  I have a five-year document.

*From:* Dennis C. via CnC-List 
*Sent:* Tuesday, May 04, 2021 1:56 PM
*To:* CnClist 
*Cc:* Dennis C. 
*Subject:* Stus-List USCG documentation renewal

Well, it's that time again!  I just got my notice from "Vessel 
Documentation Portal".  I took a Sharpie and wrote "REFUSED. RETURN TO 
SENDER" on it and put it back in the mailbox.  It usually arrives a 
few weeks BEFORE the official notification from USCG.


For the newbies, this is one of several third party services that will 
help you renew your USCG documentationfor a fee.  A large fee.


You can renew without any additional fees at:

https://www.dco.uscg.mil/Our-Organization/Deputy-for-Operations-Policy-and-Capabilities-DCO-D/National-Vessel-Documentation-Center/ 



or

http://www.uscg.mil/nvdc/ 

If you Google "USCG vessel documentation renewal" you will get, in 
addition to the real USCG Vessel Documentation Center, other third 
party entities which will gladly take a large fee and file your 
renewal for you.  Nothing illegal about these third parties.  You are 
welcome to use them.  It's just irritating that they design their 
mailouts and website to look very official thus deceiving the 
uninformed boat owner into thinking they are the real USCG NVDC.


Be aware.

Also, be advised that the USCG has new forms and, effective Jan 2022, 
will be extending the term of your documentation certificate to five 
years from one year.  The fee will increase from $26 to $130 ($26 x 5).


--

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA


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Stus-List Re: Information

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Ted,

Magic Dragon (HIN: ZCC40117M81F) was a USCG documented vessel # 637267 
which had it's last Certificate of Document (COD) issued in 1999.  You 
should be able to get a copy of the original documentation from  USCG's 
National Vessel Documentation Center < 
https://www.dco.uscg.mil/Our-Organization/Deputy-for-Operations-Policy-and-Capabilities-DCO-D/National-Vessel-Documentation-Center/ 
>  To do so apply for an "Abstract of Title" (CG-1332) for $25.00 and 
it will provide the original seller, owner(s) and home port(s) up to 
1999.  Can you provide me with her current name, home berth and Yacht Club ?

Hope this helps.

Don Kern
/Fireball/, C Mk2
Bristol, RI

On 4/9/2021 8:33 AM, ted_relinda--- via CnC-List wrote:
We are hoping that maybe there is a  member who remembers our vessel.  
She is a 1981 C 40-2 hull # 117. We believe she was manufactured 
under the name of Magic Dragon, due to the location of name on build 
parts. We aquired her when she was donated  to our local sailing 
center. There was no paperwork other than the owners manual with her 
and a receipt for batteries.  There is an indication that she was in 
the NE area possibly New Jersey. Any information on her that we can 
get would be greatly appreciated. Thank you-. Relinda


Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 



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Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Hang your club burgee where the clock use to be.

Don Kern
/Fireball, /C Mk2
Bristol, RI

On 3/28/2021 1:24 PM, Matthew via CnC-List wrote:


All this talk about interior teak reminds me of question I have for 
the group.  I removed a clock from an interior wall, and the teak ply 
that was behind the clock is a different shade than the rest of the 
wall.  I assume it’s from the wood not getting any light for 40 
years.  Any tricks for this issue?


Matt Wolford

C 42 Custom


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Stus-List Re: Remote vhf stereo speakers

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

My boat been around a long time.  I did install a speaker (1980s) in the 
side of the cubby at the front of the cockpit that was hard wired to 
double throw switch (DP-DT:  VHF in - Out to speaker - Radio in)  at the 
Nav Station, selectable: VHF or FM/AM/Tape.  Both radios are long gone.  
Now the AM/FM is bluetooth with a Bose Soundlink mini in a ziplock bag 
placed in the cubby and the installed cubby speaker always selected to 
VHF.  We also have a handheld at the helm pedestal, always on and a 
spare handheld down below.  Always able to communicate with the race 
committee and the heavy commercial shipping.


Don Kern
/Fireball, /C Mk2
Bristol, RI


On 3/28/2021 3:11 PM, Len Mitchell via CnC-List wrote:
Raymarine made a wired waterproof mono remote speaker with a volume 
control (as do many others). It’s about 4x4 inches. I have one close 
to the helm and it works great. It would be awful to have to choose 
between music and vhf!



Len Mitchell

S/V Crazy Legs

1989 C 37+

Midland On.



Sent from my mobile device.

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Stus-List Re: handrail

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Let me add - check the direction of the grain of the plug to align with 
larger piece and to make sure it is going level or slightly upwards, 
otherwise the cut may end up lower on one side

Don Kern
/Fireball, /C Mk2
Bristol, RI

On 3/28/2021 3:41 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:
Use a wood screw drilled into the wood plug.  As the screw bottoms out 
it will pull the plug.  Just replace with a new one.  Glue in place 
with wood glue.  Use a sharp knife/chisel to shape and then sand 
flush.  Stain/seal/oil for finish.


Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Sun, Mar 28, 2021, 15:30 General Gao via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Hi, my C 35 Mk2 handrail seems to have a leak to the inside. I
found out this last year when there was rain and I found water
inside the cabin where the handrail was.

This year I want to take care of it before the season starts. I
took a closer look at it from inside, there seems to be a wood 
stud, do I just use a knife to pop it off to access the screws?


https://drive.google.com/file/d/155AB7tJdv5J1JWm-tAk4_hQpyv7MedlL/view?usp=sharing



Thank you in advance.

Bo
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Stus-List Re: Why race? How did you learn?

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Chuck,
That a good question with valid answers.  I would add, it pulls the 
families together.  On my boat I have three generation enjoying (most of 
the time) the exaltation of a good competitive team sport, afterwards 
sitting below laughing at some the stunts pulled during the race, and 
then of course the party with competitors afterwards and trying to 
figure out why they went the way they did.


Another answer is: I always have raced.  There is an adage, that when 
two sailboats meet - the race is on.
My dad was a naval architect and he built my brother and I an 8' sailing 
pram, in high school we built a kit Thistle which I campaign for twenty 
years. Was on the sailing team at Univ of RI, team captain and coach at 
Naval Academy, family bought our C in 1980 and have raced it ever 
since, at one point with 4 generations aboard.


My question is: why has sailboat racing in the decline?? In the 60's the 
weekend regattas on Narragansett Bay drew over 100 boats. PHRF-NB in the 
early 2000's was over 600 boats, today we hover around 400.

Reasons I have been given:

   Families have too many other things on their agenda.
   Hard to get crew.
   Too stressful

Don Kern
/Fireball,/ C$C35 Mk2
Bristol, RI


On 1/30/2021 12:51 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List wrote:

Why race?
If you consider the benefits of racing; learning to sail better, 
getting a boat to perform at it's highest efficiency, learning how to 
trim sails properly, learning to use the tide and currents, learning a 
few racing rules and signal flags, learning how to develop and manage 
crew members, building a team, etc.   I enjoyed the challenge and 
personal growth that came with it and I'm grateful for all the people 
I met along the journey.
Racing has a stigma about it that diehard cruisers avoid at all 
costs.  Cost being the most important.  Risk of collision and risk of 
breakage is another.  Next is prep time.  Next is learning new skills 
associated with learning the start sequence, flag signals, racing 
rules, etc.
I followed the cautious route learning to race my boat.  I crewed on 
some racing boats and learned the start sequence and how to get round 
the course and then had some experienced racers coach me aboard my 
boat on a couple races.  It made the greatest difference to have their 
experience and skills to make the races safe and I would encourage any 
yachtclub to foster that program of coaching cruisers in a few races.  
I was lucky and found some really good guys to help me learn.  My 
mentors were soft spoken experts who were firm but never raised their 
voices, so all my pickup crew members had total respect for their 
wisdom and we prepped the bottom and I had good sails and we did very 
well.

Why do others race?  How did you learn?
Chuck Scheaffer Resolute 1989 C 34R Pasadena Md

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Stus-List Re: Furler question

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Matt.
Because I use the furler only for cruising I replaced the snap-shackle 
on the furler with a standard small shackle and do have a snap-shackle 
on halyard. This allows me to host racing sails and attach the halyard 
to the foredeck when no sail is raised.  Besides the entry angle at the 
mast head it is also prudent to make sure all other mast head halyards 
are taunt when furling, more than one occasion have tried to roll a 
spinnaker halyard into the foresail. Fireball has two spinnaker halyards 
on the masthead crane and two jib halyard.

Don Kern
/Fireball,/ C Mk2
Bristol, RI

On 1/27/2021 11:34 AM, Matthew via CnC-List wrote:


While on the topic of furlers, I noticed a couple times last
summer that we had difficulty unfurling the sail.  My best guess
is that the wire rope thimble holding the snap shackle onto the
halyard was banging into something up top.  I’m replacing the
wire-to-rope halyards with all rope for this year, and my line
supplier said if I’m using a furler (Harken in my case) I don’t
need a snap shackle on the halyard.  All I need is an eye splice
because the furler already has a snap shackle for the halyard. 
Does anyone have this arrangement (just an eye splice at the end
of the halyard)?

Please advise.  Thanks.

Matt

**

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Stus-List Re: adding tracks to deck

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Dwight,

I was going ask the same question as Chuck.  My 35 Mk2 is old school, no 
roller furler racing genoas, but does have a cruising roller furl #2. 
All racing genoas are deck sweepers and are lead inboard of the 
lifelines which requires on each tack that the foredeck "skirts" the 
sails. I usually point high and try to find the slot where the foresails 
telltales are just barely lifting. Seems to work against most boats and 
we get to the mark in good shape.  But I do note your statement about 
keel shape, since Fireball has a keel a little over 6'  (1.98m) and a 
for-to-aft longer rudder by 2".  Also her "E" is 11.65' (3.55m) so the 
boat really drives off her genoas and the main is secondary.


Don Kern
/Fireball, /C Mk2
Bristol, RI



On 1/24/2021 3:24 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List wrote:

Hi Dwight,
Do you ever trim the genoa so that it is entirely inside the lifelines?
Chuck S
On 01/24/2021 7:38 AM dwight veinot via CnC-List 
 wrote:
The beam of the Mk I is the same as the beam of my Mk II at 10.5 
feet. A high cut clew will help but the sheets will still chafe hard 
on the life lines under some points of sail. My boat has inboard 
genoa tracks but there is a limit on how close you can sail to 
apparent wind angle (point) and still be fast from point A to B 
upwind. You will be able to sail higher in light air, say below 10kts 
apparent but as wind speed increases footing off will pay off. The 
design mainly because of keel and hull shape I believe does not point 
as well as some newer designs. Besides the lifeline issue you need to 
consider the shrouds. The Mk I has for and aft lowers with not much 
distance between the uppers and the toe rail.


On Sat, Jan 23, 2021 at 11:16 PM Bob Mann via CnC-List < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:


My '71 C 35 mk I does not have any deck tracks. In my area we
used to race with 167% genoa, which I used snatch blocks on the
toe rail for.  When I went down to a 155%, I still used the toe
rail.  However, the clew comes down just aft of a stantion and
gets caught on the lifeline; I already severely bent the port
lifeline last year.
Our OD fleet in Detroit is going to 155% max genoa size in '21 so
I'll be using that sail more often. All-around, time to add
tracks to the deck.  I've been given these locations for adding
track:
*Inline tracks*
Front 20.0 aft of tack
Back 26.6 aft of tack
Front off center line 3.5
Back off center line  4.1

*Transverse tracks - run from rail to cabin house*
*130 %  Transverse*
19.5 Aft of jib tack

*155% Transverse*
23.1  aft of tack
I've been successful in Wednesday night races running the 167% to
the toe rail and can continue to do so.  However, for OD races on
Saturday it will be 155% and 130% (which I don't yet own).
What do you think of the track locations?  Should the track be
straight, if possible?  What size track, 1.25 T-track?  I'll be
going with Garhauer adjustable sheet leads.  Other thoughts or
suggestions?  I have two months to plan and install as I won't
launch until late April.
Bob Mann
Mystic
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--
Sent from Gmail Mobile
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- use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
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Stus-List Re: adding tracks to deck

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Shawn,
I answered Bob's email and added a drawing of my deck layout - of course 
it was too big and got rejected. Below are the two emails that were sent 
directly to Bob and a Dropbox url with the files (first time for 
dropbox) Let me know if you can't view them.  I also revised that the 
boat carries the spin pole inboard of the shrouds, making it easier to 
get to the mast - don't have to go fwd of shrouds to get onto the mast.


https://www.dropbox.com/sh/24jj19inocsyijl/AABdveccl-YBav2UPFiJEngxa?dl=0
Bob,  (original message was too big for stu's list)

Your pointing angle is not as tight as it could be going to the toe rail.
I have a 1974 C 35 Mk2 which is slightly longer. but has a similar 
shroud arrangement.  The boat was originally set up by the factory & 
Hood for a campaign.  I use to have a 155, but my No.1 now is a 148, 
No.2 132, no.3 120.  The tracks (per side) are two straight sections of 
1.25 which angle slightly from inboard (fwd) to outboard (aft).  The fwd 
end is approx 2" from cabin, the joint between the tracks is approx 2" 
from cabin and the aft end is 3" from the toe rail.  They run from just 
fwd of the aft lower to a little fwd of the fwd cockpit winch   I also 
use two twin sheet lead blocks each side which serve two purposes: to 
correctly lead two sails during sail change, and the ability to take the 
lazy sheet and lead to thru correct block to the secondary winch when 
there are over-wraps on the main winch.  Can send you pictures if you 
want. Remember Defenders March sales.


Don Kern

Bob
On 01/24/2021 1:24 AM Donald Kern  wrote:
Thanks Don.
Also curious what the cabin interior looks like from all these bolts.
My wife still thinks the boat is part family boat and not just a racer 
so I try to keep the interior looking nice.

Bob
Bob,

Like I said this was a factory install.  Thus, the track is backed by a 
stock aluminum bar between the headliner and deck.  The headliner had 
3/4" holes drilled below each bolt/nut. Make sure the bolts are close to 
flush with the nuts.  Bought a bag of 50 Plastic Hole Plugs to fill the 
holes.  I spray painted them flat white and also pulled down and painted 
all the overhead circular covers for the deck winches & cleats. The 
covers are original and had become discolored (yellowed) with age and 
the ss screws had rusted slightly onto the plastic.  Overhead looks much 
better now. Fireball is also a cruiser, though she is raced hard, ie: 
Fall Off Soundings.


Plugs are still available at "dangoodbuy":
https://www.ebay.com/itm/50-Plastic-Hole-Plugs-To-Fit-3-4-Opening-Translucent-White-Nylon/251487228379?hash=item3a8dce91db:g:MCEAAOxydUJTM1Cj 



Don Kern
/Fireball/, C Mk2
Bristol, RI

On 1/24/2021 11:46 AM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List wrote:
Our 35-2 has track, but it is too short for either the 95 jib or the 
genoa (which is currently on toerail), so I am looking to add a longer 
track. I am curious how you arrived at the measurements? Based on the 
foot length of the sail? Were they done on paper, or with the actual 
sail on the boat?


--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com 
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto 




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Re: Stus-List Vineyard Race

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Rich

Wish I could join the race, but Fireball did not make it into the water 
this year due to the COVID-19 rules imposed by RI, since most of my crew 
is from out of state.  We will be back in the water next year and 
looking forward to Off Soundings.  Also will put the Vineyard race on 
our schedule for next year, however Stamford is a long haul from Bristol RI.


Don kern
Fireball C Mk2
Bristol, RI


On 8/19/2020 12:25 PM, Rich via CnC-List wrote:

There is less than 3 weeks till the Vineyard Race Labor Day weekend. With over 80 
entries I don’t see many C’s. Only a 33,a 34R, a 38, a 40 and me. Where is 
everyone?  So I propose a challenge. Let’s get as many C’s entered so we all brag 
how good we are. I’ve been in the Off Soundings races a few years now and 2 years ago 
we had 5 35’s in our division. It was awesome. Would love to see you all out there. The 
deadline to enter and pay is this Friday to avoid late entry fees.

Sent from my iPhone
Richard Spitzenberger  CPA
R JMS C 35-3
Phone 631-331-3140
r...@spitzenbergercpa.com


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Re: Stus-List Listers Age Range

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Joel

Do you have a number scribed on the top  St'bd of your transom, such as 
CCY30/xxxmm/73?  The /xxx/ will be the hull number and the /mm/ is the 
month built.


Don Kern
/Fireball/, C Mk2
Bristol RI



On 7/15/2020 9:13 AM, Joel Delamirande via CnC-List wrote:


Human age I was just wondering
I have a mk1 1973 30 foot
I think hull 73

On Wed, Jul 15, 2020 at 9:11 AM Dreuge via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Human Age?

How about the oldest and youngest of the C era vessel?  That
would be an interesting honor.


Regarding age spans, the limits are less meaning full.  For
example, the local amateur
radio club has about the same 35 - 86 limits, but mean of the
distribution  is
likely 70.  On the other hand, the age spread of our clubs Viper
fleet is about 16 - 68,
with an average age in the 20s.


-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/


On Jul 15, 2020, at 8:54 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
 wrote:

Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2020 08:16:02 -0400
From: James Hesketh mailto:jameshesk...@gmail.com>>
To:cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Listers Age Range
Message-ID:
mailto:calgazn44kcf5q2gmnzgb1mjsa00801x27ybgr-fubem1gfe...@mail.gmail.com>>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Randy wrote:


So far we?ve got:

Youngest: Luke Wolbrink, age 35
Wisest: Doug Robinson, age 86

I?m in that range, 56.  Neither young nor wise :)

Good to see some young people here - way to go guys.



These ages parallel the informal surveys from various motorcycle
groups I
belong to. Maybe youngsters don't like motion?

I'm 64 and have been motorcycling most of my life, and sailing
for 2/3s of
it.

Jim Hesketh
C 26
Miami, Fl


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--
Joel Delamirande
*www.jdroofing.ca *


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Re: Stus-List C 35 about to be scrapped in Pensacola, FL

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

No manufactures plate on # 255

Don Kern
/Fireball/ C Mk2
Bristol RI


On 7/1/2020 2:37 PM, david--- via CnC-List wrote:
Hull 35-2 #207 has a manufacturers plate at the forward end of the 
cockpit well, as well as the USCG HIN on the transom. It was built in 
1973.


David Kelly
Baraka C 35-2
Noroton, CT

On Jul 1, 2020, at 2:28 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Sorry, but I think C discontinued the manufacturers plate when they 
went to the USCG mandated HIN system which became effective Nov 1, 
1972.  This boat is a 1974.  :(

  --
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Wed, Jul 1, 2020 at 12:48 PM JohnKelly Cuthbertson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Of all the models to not have the cove strip ... oh well thanks
anyways.  My search will continue

I guess the only other thing would be the manufacturer’s plate ...

And then I’ll learn they didn’t put those in this model either :-)

JK

Motion Designs Limited
647 990 7752

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 Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support 
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Re: Stus-List C 35 about to be scrapped in Pensacola, FL

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

JohnKelly

The 35 Mk2 does have a cove strip, just no star / sword.    The cove 
strip ends about eight inches aft of the in-hull running light which I 
think was unique to this vintage C


Don Kern
/Fireball/  C Mk2
Bristol RI



On 7/1/2020 10:30 AM, JohnKelly Cuthbertson via CnC-List wrote:

Thanks so much.  I’ll cover the cost

JK

Motion Designs Limited
647 990 7752


On
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Re: Stus-List C 35 about to be scrapped in Pensacola, FL

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

I've never seen a Mk2 with the star/ sword. Mine #255 does not.

Don Kern
/Fireball /C Mk2
Bristol RI



On 7/1/2020 12:10 PM, dwight veinot via CnC-List wrote:

My 35 MkII hull number 242 does not have the star and dagger.

On Wed, Jul 1, 2020 at 11:26 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


JohnKelly,

I'm not sure the 35 MkII has the star / sword.  I know the MkI
doesn't.  Can any MKII owner verify that?

Otherwise, I'll take my Sawzall and see if I can get them if Mike
will let me cut the boat.

  --
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

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Re: Stus-List C 35 about to be scrapped in Pensacola, FL

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Looking at the HIN that is a 1974 C Mk*2*

Don Kern
/Fireball /C Mk2
Bristol RI


On 6/30/2020 6:54 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:

Was it Touché?  :)

I saw it last week but thought it was a 34.

If anybody wants me to look at it for parts, let me know.  I deal with 
Mike at Southern Cross often. Touché is docked about 2 blocks away. I 
drive past it on my way to my slip.


I should be there next week.

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Blue Pearl History

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Rocky

It does not appear that the owner of /Blue Pearl/ is active on the CnC 
list.  The info below is old data from the USCG and original C 
manufacture:


C 37/40+cb sd   Hull #59  HIN ZCC37059B090    USCG #962323 /Blue Pearl 
/  Former names /Lagniappe, Trinity/    Sail # 73452    Reg. Home Port 
Northport, NY


Don


On 6/24/2020 6:37 AM, rockland bazemore via CnC-List wrote:
Hi does anyone have any info or are able to search the mailing list 
for info regarding the 37/40 Blue Pearl? I searched using Blue Pearl 
:cnc-list.com  but this doesnt seem to find many 
results. The few results I did find aren't stellar. Thanks for any 
info you can give me.




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Re: Stus-List Rob Ball comment on 41 "robustness"

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Bailey

I have one of those earlier C 35 Mk2 ('74 #255) and have _not_ tried 
to attach the bulkheads to the overhead.  She does work in heavy air.  
Two years ago the original outboard holding tank failed, which I had to 
remove by dismantling the head's bulkheads and cabinetry.  I replaced 
all screws with slightly larger ones since more than 50% were missing or 
stripped.  I put a new holding tank under the v berth and replaced all 
the screws connect the glass to the wood cabinetry in the forward cabin 
- 75 % were missing or backed out.  We are not shy about pushing her 
hard in the last 40 years I have raced her. Last year hit 11.8 kts in a 
double-hander spin run.  She does creak and grown.  The most annoying 
thing is the head door will not stay close and bangs open when we are 
working her hard.  About ten years ago I did an experiment at the dock 
of running a line from pulpit to pulpit (weight and small block at bow 
for constant tension) and ran the backstay up to 3000 psi - the line 
rose 2" up the mast (original unbending, telephone pole mast).  The most 
tension I will put on backstay when sailing in very heavy air is 2200 - 
2500 PSI.  Since we still compete in the top 10% of PHRF races, I have 
no intention of changing the original set up.


Don Kern
/Fireball/, C Mk2
Bristol RI


On 6/10/2020 12:07 PM, Bailey White via CnC-List wrote:
Has anyone added material to tie the bulkheads to the liners for those 
earlier boats?  I wasn't sure if the liner could take it or if some 
work would need to be done to grind out the liner and fiberglass 
directly to the hull laminate, which would be more involved and error 
prone.


-- Forwarded message --
From: Rob Ball mailto:r...@edsonintl.com>>
To: Shawn Wright >, "cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
" >

Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 2020 12:39:15 +
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rob Ball comment on 41 "robustness"

Earlier C’s had the bulkheads ‘floating’ in the headliner groove, 
and as we got into larger sizes (bigger loads) those tie downs were 
the solution.


On the C 40, there were a lot of warranty claims for those leaks, 
and eventually it was decided to stiffen up things to prevent this.  
The first boat was the new C 35 and the bulkheads were ‘tabbed’ to 
the deck – much stiffer . . . . BUT . . . . it meant that the 
headliner, which is installed on the deck when it’s upside down, had 
to leave space for the tabbing after the deck is placed on the hull.  
And then those spaces had to be covered up with separate pieces to 
blend with the headliner after the tabbing . . . . Much more labor and 
cost . . .


But – a much stiffer boat – the sailmakers loved the straighter 
headstay  . .


Victory by the designer over the accountants . . . .

The downside, other than cost is that when you hit a rock – the damage 
is more extensive, because the boat is now actually more brittle  . . .


Rob Ball   C 34


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Stus-List Fwd: Re: 35 MK I listing

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Joe

Yes, As a frequent contributor, how could I miss you ??

Don Kern
/Fireball/ C 35 Mk2
Bristol, RI


Present BoatOwner
Data Age 	Year 	Type 	Hull # 	Registration 	Name 	Former Name 	Sail # 
Berthed /
Home Port 	Years own 	Bought 	Last 	First 	e-mail 	City 	State/Prov 
Yacht Club 	Phone 	First

SailYears Sailing
10-19   1973C 35 MK I 179
CCY351790373 	553128-b 	Coquina 			Annapolis MD 	## 	1977 	Barba 
Joe 	j...@dellabarba.com  






Barba.xlsx
Description: MS-Excel 2007 spreadsheet
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Re: Stus-List C 38 mkII Pilot Berth Dimensions

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Cam,

I have been running a list of of C owners for a couple of years that 
started out as to their experience and how long they had their boat.  It 
has expanded thru multiple sources to over 2300 C  For all the C 
38 there are 235 boats and 50 C 38  Mk2s contained on the list.  Any 
details your boat/yourself would be appreciated. If you would like I can 
drop you the list of the C 38s. It is too big for the CnC forum.


Don Kern
/Fireball/ C 35 Mk2
Bristol, RI




Present BoatYear Built
Type C xx Mkx cust
cb, tr, wk, sd, etc
Hull # (HIN) CCY, ZCC
Registration-USCG or Transport Canada
Name
Former Name
Sail #
Berthed
Years own
Year Bought
Owner   Last
First
e-mail
City
State/Prov
Yacht Club
Phone
First
Sail
Years Sailing


On 4/25/2020 1:37 PM, Cam Lubbock via CnC-List wrote:

Hello all,

I am brand new to the list and also to C Ownership. Looks like this will be a 
great resource!

I am wondering if anyone knows the dimensions of the pilot berths on the 38 
mkII? I realize they are tapered, so just the max. and min. width and the 
length would be great. I am not able to access the boat at this time due to 
COVID closures, but I’m trying to figure out some storage solutions to make 
life easier for us while I’m stuck at home.

I am thinking of buying some plastic storage totes that I can load up at home 
with food and supplies and just throw them up on one on the pilot berths to 
make a quick weekend trip a lot easier rather than loading everything from bags 
into lockers and then unloading a couple days later.

Thanks,

Cam



Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List 35 MK III keel bolt plates

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

David,

I have been running a list of of C owners for a couple of years that 
started out as to their experience and how long they had their boat.  It 
has expanded thru multiple sources to over 2300 C  For all the C 
35 there are 375 boats and 196 C 35  Mk3s contained on the list.  I 
assume the below boat is what you bought.  Any further details would be 
appreciated. If you would like I can drop you the list of the C 35s, 
It is too big for the CnC forum.


Don Kern
/Fireball/ C 35 Mk2
Bristol, RI

Present Boat
Data Age 	Year 	Type 	Hull # 	Registration 	Name 	Former Name 	Sail # 
Berthed /

Home Port   Years own   Bought
US-20   1985C 35 Mk3  198
ZCC35198E585699203-x05  Anthem  Newport 



On 4/24/2020 6:47 PM, David Swensen via CnC-List wrote:
I am new to mail list, having recently bought a 1985 35 Mk III. It is 
evident his list will be very helpful in the future. Thanks to all 
who participate.
I am in the process (when we can get back to the boatyard) of 
addressing the C Smile. The current keel bolt washers/ plates are 
not stainless and I would like to replace them. Whereas I cannot get 
in to the boat yard for a few more weeks, I wanted to see if anyone 
had the dimensions of those plates so that I could have them 
manufactured ahead of time.

 If anyone has those dimensions to share, I would be very appreciative.

Best,

David Swensen
 sv Freya  (Formerly known as Anthem)
1985 C 35 MK III

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Swensen.xlsx
Description: MS-Excel 2007 spreadsheet
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Re: Stus-List C 37part 2

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Richard

You only got part of the list. I have some 115 37s on my list. Seems 
that if you consecutively send out emails that approach 50k the host 
server locks you out.  I tried to send out C 36, 37, 38 and 39s, but 
only part two of the 37s made it. Below is the data associated with 
Bushmark4.


Data Age 	Year 	Type 	Hull # 	Registration 	Name 	Former Name 	Sail # 
Berthed 	Years own 	Bought 	Last 	First 	e-mail 	City 	State/Prov 	Yacht 
Club 	Phone 	First

SailYears Sailing

10-19   1985C 37 Mk1 cb   137
ZCC37137J485 	682289-c 	Bushmark 4 	Esperanza, Starfire 		Ohio River, 
Mile 596 	#REF! 	2014 	Bush 	Richard & Kay 	bushma...@aol.com 
<mailto:bushma...@aol.com> 	Louisville 	KY 	Bull Creek YC 	502-584-7255 		


Is there an easy way to have the total list viewed by members and 
provide corrections back to me?  I can publish the list as a single pdf 
so the base List (xlsx) is not corrupted by inadvertent mistakes.  Have 
close to 2000 C on the list.


Don Kern
/Fireball/ C 35 Mk2
Bristol RI


On 4/13/2020 11:23 AM, Richard Bush wrote:
Don, in reviewing your information, I note that my boat is not 
listed;  it is s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB;


I know that there are several other 37s from the 1981-1986 group that 
are active on this list as well...

thanks
Richard
s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596;


Richard N. Bush Law Offices
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255


-Original Message-----
From: Don Kern via CnC-List 
To: Charlie Nelson via CNC-List ; T Smyth via 
CnC-List 

Cc: Don Kern 
Sent: Fri, Apr 10, 2020 4:23 pm
Subject: Stus-List C 37part 2

Charlie
My list for those C 36ft are fairly large.  I will send you a couple 
of messages of what I have. Let me know if you need more data for your 
project.

any corrections/update are always appreciated
Don Kern
/Fireball/ C 35 Mk2
Bristol RI
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Re: Stus-List Paddle Wheel Anti-fouling...?

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

David

I use this method on my boat and on the J30 crew on Wed night beer cans. 
Just loosen the collar holding the xdcr until the threads disengage, 
rotate the xdcr 180, push down and tighten collar.  No water in the boat.


Don Kern
/Fireball /C 35 Mk2
Bristol RI

On 4/13/2020 11:56 AM, David Risch via CnC-List wrote:
Thought of that, but it just seemed a bit heavy.    But will give it a 
whirl this season.  Thanks


Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you.


*From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Donald 
Kern via CnC-List 

*Sent:* Monday, April 13, 2020 11:49:18 AM
*To:* David Risch via CnC-List 
*Cc:* Donald Kern 
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Paddle Wheel Anti-fouling...?
David

What I found with mine is to to turn it 180, reversing the direction 
of paddle rotation.  That works about 75% of the time, then it is a 
pull and clean.


Don Kern
/Fireball /C 35 Mk2
Bristol RI

On 4/13/2020 11:32 AM, David Risch via CnC-List wrote:
My paddle wheel fouls if you just look at it...any solutions to 
reducing fouling (besides putting it in/taking it out which is a 
total PIA)


Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you.


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Stus-List C 37part 2

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Charlie

My list for those C 36ft are fairly large.  I will send you a couple 
of messages of what I have. Let me know if you need more data for your 
project.


any corrections/update are always appreciated

Don Kern
/Fireball/ C 35 Mk2
Bristol RI


C 37 list 03-2020 sec 2.xlsx
Description: MS-Excel 2007 spreadsheet
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Re: Stus-List Cruising Love

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

a Pomeranian will work better - real cute and portable

Don
Fireball



On 4/9/2020 6:01 PM, dwight veinot via CnC-List wrote:

Best bet get a lovable dog like a miniature Yorkie and go out in public.
If you cant do it maybe the puppy will. Mans best friend

On Thu, Apr 9, 2020 at 4:19 PM Will Gerstmyer via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


This may be the weirdest posting but i like this forum and it is
important to me so I’ll risk asking.
I am seeking a 50-60-ish woman who wants to cruise the world with
me, a live-aboard. Oh, and we need to fall in love, too.
I needn’t be the captain.
My profile “Bohemon” can be found on freebie site OKCupid or
simply write/call me.
Yes I can single-hand my boat but that isn’t the dream.

Will Gerstmyer
1986 C 41
Portland ME (at present)
978-609-1331
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--
Sent from Gmail Mobile

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Re: Stus-List Emergency tiller

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Shawn,

Attached is pictures of my emerg tiller.  Thanks for reminding me about 
it, since it is rarely pulled out of the port cockpit locker.  The 
bolt/nut is corroded and needs to be cleaned up so it can be tightened 
on the post. Let me know if you need dimensions.


Don Kern
Fireball C 35 Mk2 #255
Bristol RI




On 3/21/2020 11:39 AM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List wrote:
This thread reminds me that I still haven't finished fabricating the 
e-tiller for my 35-2. I think I asked a while back, but if anyone has 
a photo of an original 35 mk2 tiller, I'd love to see it. It is quite 
different from the mk1, since the rudder post is behind the pedestal. 
What came with the boat is a thick steel plate that clamps on the 
rudder post, then a vertical aluminum pipe to bring the height to 
almost above the wheel, ending in a "T" welded to the pipe. I have a 
few ideas on how to make a tiller to attach to "T", but am still 
curious to see what an original looks like.


Oh, and my re-wiring job that is quickly progressing to a complete 
teardown of the boat has almost reach the steering gear, so an 
inspection under there is imminent. Things looked good in terms of 
nicely greased and clean, but the issue of cable damage caused by 
rudder turning too far needs to be checked - my rudder turns beyond 45 
degrees at full lock.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com 
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


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Re: Stus-List Stuffing box leak rates

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

I use a PYI system and have not had a water leakage at the shaft.  The 
water I get in the bilge is coming down the mast, because I mounted a 
hard vang as low as possible to the cabin top.  Mistake because found it 
almost impossible to seal.  However the seal I use does limit that 
problem until the heavy downpours. I do have a Rule separate float 
switch mounted forward (slightly higher) of the low point in my bilge 
with the Rule pump in the low point.  I keep the switch "off" when not 
aboard since the boat is on a mooring and the last thing I need is a 
dead battery because the float got stuck "on".


Don Kern
Fireball C 35 Mk2
Bristol RI


On 3/13/2020 4:23 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:


I don’t have and never have had an auto bilge pump. I would have to 
let the boat sit a month or two for water to be a real issue and that 
comes from rain down the mast.


I have a carbon face seal on the shaft that does not drip.

*/Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I/*

*/www.dellabarba.com/*


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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: wire-to-rope vs rope

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Let me add this; in that about half the season the boat is cruised with 
the roller-furl 135.  About every other weekend the boat is raced using 
the twin foil so the halyards are constantly running over masthead 
sheaves for sail changes (genoa to spinnaker to genoa or 
upsizing/downsizing the gennies).


Don Kern
Fireball, C Mk2
Bristol RI

On 3/11/2020 1:00 PM, Don Kern via CnC-List wrote:


Joe,

About five years ago a bird decided to build a nest in my mast when it 
was down for winter storage.  The only problem I had (besides about 
1/2 bushel of straw/twigs dropping out) was that the lines made good 
nest lining causing me to replace all internal halyards except the 
main.  Did not replace the sheaves and have noticed no abrasion of the 
lines. fwiw


Don Kern
Fireball, C Mk2
Bristol RI


On Wed, Mar 11, 2020 at 11:02 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


My wire to rope jib halyard dates back to the 1980s and has some
nasty meat hooks. I have several all rope halyards that were
given to me and have sat inside my shed for years. I used the old
wire halyard to pull one through and my original thought was to
get another one made. This does raise an obvious question – why
not just use the rope?

My fear is that since the sail usually only comes down once a
year if that, the rope will get chewed through on the masthead
shiv. Is this an issue?

*/Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I/*

*/www.dellabarba.com

<https://protect2.fireeye.com/v1/url?k=154e93b4-483d00d5-154ebac3-ac1f6b44e86e-566ce514c5020fcf=1=b3cec597-d963-4d31-aeb3-e504f09e9943=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dellabarba.com%2F>/*

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--

Joel


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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: wire-to-rope vs rope

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Joe,

About five years ago a bird decided to build a nest in my mast when it 
was down for winter storage.  The only problem I had (besides about 1/2 
bushel of straw/twigs dropping out) was that the lines made good nest 
lining causing me to replace all internal halyards except the main.  Did 
not replace the sheaves and have noticed no abrasion of the lines. fwiw


Don Kern
Fireball, C Mk2
Bristol RI


On Wed, Mar 11, 2020 at 11:02 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


My wire to rope jib halyard dates back to the 1980s and has some
nasty meat hooks. I have several all rope halyards that were given
to me and have sat inside my shed for years. I used the old wire
halyard to pull one through and my original thought was to get
another one made. This does raise an obvious question – why not
just use the rope?

My fear is that since the sail usually only comes down once a year
if that, the rope will get chewed through on the masthead shiv. Is
this an issue?

*/Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I/*

*/www.dellabarba.com

/*

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--

Joel


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Re: Stus-List C Fleet

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Charlie,

The list of C 36-37s was too big and bounced, I will send it to you 
directly.


Don Kern
Fireball C 35 Mk2
Bristol RI


On 2/21/2020 3:26 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List wrote:

Hey Don

I am interested in reviewing your list of C Do you have a link to 
it or other way for me to review it?


I am especially interested in the later (1989+) 36 (all versions) and 
the 37 and 37/40 (all versions)--especially the center board models.


I can manually find them from your list if it is easier to just send 
it all.


Thanks,

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
1995 C XL/kcb
Greenville, NC

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Re: Stus-List 1981 C 34 - second propane locker?

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Shawn,

My 1974 C 35 Mk2 still has the original three burner pressure alcohol 
stove with oven, which is very tired and needs replacement.  I believe a 
previous owner of Callisto had the boat modified for Propane, since 
propane stoves are not listed as an option on 1974 C 35 price list - I 
may be wrong though.  Do you have any photos of your lockers and could 
you describe the plumbing for the propane stove with make and model of 
the stove? Any info would be helpful when I haul out the old stove/oven.


Don Kern
Fireball C 35 Mk2
Bristol RI


On 2/19/2020 10:09 AM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List wrote:
My 35-2 has a locker on each side, the starboard being just for a 
second tank with no hookup. I believe they are factory original, but 
have been modified to accept a taller tank by extending the bottoms. 
The other 35-2 in the club has a modified locker on one side, where 
the owner just cut the top off and added hinges. It seems to work 
fine, and looks ok, but I think water intrusion may be an issue. With 
mine, the entire cover is removable (teak, but now epoxied and painted 
white), and there is an inner lip which prevents water from running 
in, similar to the main cockpit lockers.


I haven't seen the 34 lockers, but it shouldn't be too difficult to 
cut one in, depending on your experience with fiberglass work. You 
will need some kind of sealed tub to fit the propane tank of course.


--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com 
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Tue, Feb 18, 2020 at 7:44 PM DMcMillan via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


My 1981 C 34 has a propane locker on the starboard side of the
helm seat.  The locker has a hinged lid.  On the port side of the
helm seat there is a similar seat but the “lid” does not open. 
Has anyone opened this up and utilized the space for storage?

Thanks.

Dennis

Victoria, BC

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Re: Stus-List furling fail annoyance on a warm day

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Joe

Same here in RI 64 degrees, wind 20+ kts, only difference my boat is 
sitting in my side yard.


Don Kern
Fireball C 35 Mk2
Bristol RI



On 1/11/2020 5:10 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List wrote:
Today was a GREAT day for sailing, 20+ from the south so we had flat 
water and great wind. We hit about 7.2 with just 2/3s of a jib :) 
Heading back to the marina the wind was increasing and when we went to 
roll the sail up, it was not rolling :( We ended up dropping it and 
folding it up like it was the 1970s or something. THE HORROR 
Anyway, the line for the furler feels kind of old and crappy. Has 
anyone ever had the line jam itself inside the drum cover?


Joe

Coquina

C 35 MK I Kent Island MD - land of pleasant living and 65 degree 
January days



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Re: Stus-List Trimming

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Shawn and Dennis

On Fireball (C 35 Mk2) I have two sets of tracks. The aft set runs 
from approximately the fwd cockpit main winch, 6" inboard of the toerail 
at a slight inboard angle to the second set which run parallel to the 
deck house to the aft lower shroud about 2" outboard from the on-deck 
aft spinnaker deck fitting.  The angle between the two is slight enough 
that the twin sheet genoa lead block will pass the junction.  Boat 
carries two of these blocks to facilitate double headsail changes.  The  
no.1 & 2 are lead outboard of all shrouds , the no.3 is lead inboard of 
aft two shrouds, outboard of the fwd shroud.  This winter adding a 2' 
section of track forward from the fwd shroud parallel to the toe rail to 
handle the #4 (80%) and the #4 being used as a staysail, being tack on 
the fwd bow-centerline track.


Don Kern
Fireball 12708
Bristol RI


On 11/13/2019 8:28 PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List wrote:
Thanks! Do you sheet inboard of the forward shroud usually, or does it 
depend how close to the wind you are?


It looks like your aft track is further outboard than mine too, so 
this must be a mk1 vs mk2 difference, as those positions have factory 
access panels in the liner.


--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com 
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Wed, Nov 13, 2019 at 4:17 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Shawn,

See:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_sb5TfIENvsbTVOZUJqUGN6Sjg/view?usp=drivesdk

and


https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_sb5TfIENvsaEhUREJ0LXRDUTg/view?usp=drivesdk

That's the track to which I trimTouche's 95% jib and the teak
cover for the fasteners.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List C 34/36 owners

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Chuck

A year ago, on a whim, I started collecting the C data which had the 
years of ownership of a boat.  I got quite a few responses (about 100) 
and sent out the results.  Since then I have been tracking the forum 
members and their boats and have been trying to update as new info comes 
in. I also pulled down the PHRF racing lists into my master (1280 
boats).  Thus I have a listing for C 34s (117) and the 34+/R/36 (37) 
which I have attached.  Can you provide an update to the attached?  Also 
besides HIN, the assigned boats sail numbers are suppose to stay with 
the hull (at least in the US) which helps to track the the current owner 
of a boat.


Don Kern
Fireball C 35 Mk2
Bristol, RI



On 11/8/2019 3:49 AM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List wrote:
Since I own a 1989 C 34R, I maintain a list of other 34/36 boats and 
owners.  These are the boats built between 1989 and 1996.  It looks 
like some boats have sold and changed owners and possibly relocated.  
So I'm looking to verify or correct the information below:


Glen Dickson, owns *Nomad I* in Ajax, Ontario.

Mike Gowrylow, is new owner of *Sassy* in Washington state.

Erik Haakonsen is new owner of Scapa renamed, *Valkyrie* and relocated 
her to Trumbull, Connecticut.


Bryan Colwell owns *Fourth Watch* in Ancortez, Washington state.  Need 
HIN or old boatname to match boat on list.


Richard Arper owns *Xanax* in Bremerton, Washington state. Need HIN or 
old boatname to match boat on list.


Please respond if you know anything about these.
I thank you in advance.

Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute, 1989 C 34R, Pasadena, Md



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C 34s.xlsx
Description: MS-Excel 2007 spreadsheet
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Re: Stus-List Interesting electrical problem

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

It is a Left coast boat, thus aliens


On 9/26/2019 11:57 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List wrote:
Sounds very much like a lightning strike. I assume you'd know if you'd 
been hit.

Or aliens.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


On Thu, 26 Sep 2019 at 14:16, John Irvin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Any UFO’s in the area?

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 26, 2019, at 3:26 PM, Ian Matthew via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>
> I have been following the list for many years and I enjoy
reading the wisdom of this group.  I have an interesting problem
and seek your advice.
>
> I have an very intermittent electrical problem (in fact it has
only happened twice in the last 7 years.  In both cases it has
resulted in electrical / electronic components becoming 'blown
out' with all fuses inline remaining good.
>
> The first time I suddenly lost my AM/FM radio and ALL my
navigation lights. The engine also stopped as I had no power to
drive the electric fuel pump. This happened when motoring back
home at night after a long race.  Fortunately there was wind and a
hand-held VHF and a powerful spotlight on the sails allowed us to
be seen by commercial traffic.  Afterwards, I checked - ALL the
incandescent bulbs that were on had blown, but the fuses were OK. 
The radio had internal circuit board components blown but again
the inline fuses (there are 2) were OK.  In the case of the fuel
pump, this had to be replaced.
> Thinking this may have been a spike from the alternator, I
replaced the alternator.
>
> Last week (3 years later), motoring back in the dark I had a
similar problem, but this time only my VHF radio 'blew'.  Again
the inline fuse was good.  The navigation lights have been
replaced with LED lights and the AM/FM radio was off.
>
> I often motor after long races and this has only happened twice!
>
> Does anyone have any ideas as to what may have caused this.  I
am an engineer so can diagnose most things but this has baffled me.
>
> I am about to upgrade my VHF radio for one with DSC and internal
GPS and to add some wind instruments.  (I have a Raymarine
knotmeter/depth meter combined, and a EV-100 autopilot.)  I want
to separate my electronics electrical input and have considered
putting them on an isolated battery, but charging is a problem. 
Is there some circuit protector I can put in place to stop this
happening again?
>
> All suggestions welcomed.
>
> BTW - for those of you with 29 mk 1's - you can race them
competitively in strong winds (as is usual on San Francisco Bay) -
keep the boat flat and have a really good crew!
>
>
> --
> Ian Matthew
> "Siento el Viento"  C 29-1
> San Francisco Bay
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your
contributions.  Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you
want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution --
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
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Re: Stus-List Interesting electrical problem

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Last year the voltage regulator on the alternator died, apparently  
causing a voltage spike. Fried two new batteries and my instrument 
cluster, radio survived.  My usual practice was to charge both batteries 
at the same time when engine is running. When under sail run the 
electronics off one battery, odd (Batt 1) or even (Batt 2) depending on 
the date. Now charge only one battery at a time, depending on which I 
was using for house/electronics. Still powered by an Atomic 4.


Don Kern
Fireball, C MkII
Bristol, RI



On 9/27/2019 3:08 AM, Matti Airas via CnC-List wrote:

Hi,

I'd check the battery and alternator connections carefully. And the 
main switches, too. If the batteries get disconnected while the motor 
is on, the alternator will create a load dump that can be even over 
100V for a fraction of a second. In principle, automotive and marine 
electronics should be protected from that but you never know. I'm only 
speculating, but if that was the reason, maybe the voltage spike was 
short enough that the fuses didn't have time to heat up?


Google for "load dump" if you want to learn more.

Cheers,

Matti Airas
C 36 "Hurma"
Helsinki, Finland


On Thu, 26 Sep 2019 at 22:26, Ian Matthew via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


I have been following the list for many years and I enjoy reading
the wisdom of this group.  I have an interesting problem and seek
your advice.

I have an very intermittent electrical problem (in fact it has
only happened twice in the last 7 years.  In both cases it has
resulted in electrical / electronic components becoming 'blown
out' with all fuses inline remaining good.

The first time I suddenly lost my AM/FM radio and ALL my
navigation lights. The engine also stopped as I had no power to
drive the electric fuel pump. This happened when motoring back
home at night after a long race. Fortunately there was wind and a
hand-held VHF and a powerful spotlight on the sails allowed us to
be seen by commercial traffic.  Afterwards, I checked - ALL the
incandescent bulbs that were on had blown, but the fuses were OK. 
The radio had internal circuit board components blown but again
the inline fuses (there are 2) were OK. In the case of the fuel
pump, this had to be replaced.
Thinking this may have been a spike from the alternator, I
replaced the alternator.

Last week (3 years later), motoring back in the dark I had a
similar problem, but this time only my VHF radio 'blew'.  Again
the inline fuse was good.  The navigation lights have been
replaced with LED lights and the AM/FM radio was off.

I often motor after long races and this has only happened twice!

Does anyone have any ideas as to what may have caused this.  I am
an engineer so can diagnose most things but this has baffled me.

I am about to upgrade my VHF radio for one with DSC and internal
GPS and to add some wind instruments.  (I have a Raymarine
knotmeter/depth meter combined, and a EV-100 autopilot.)  I want
to separate my electronics electrical input and have considered
putting them on an isolated battery, but charging is a problem. 
Is there some circuit protector I can put in place to stop this
happening again?

All suggestions welcomed.

BTW - for those of you with 29 mk 1's - you can race them
competitively in strong winds (as is usual on San Francisco Bay) -
keep the boat flat and have a really good crew!


-- 
Ian Matthew

"Siento el Viento"  C 29-1
San Francisco Bay
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Re: Stus-List Rigging information.

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Hull Numbers (HIN)


HIN

All boats manufactured or imported on or after November 1, 1972 must 
bear a HIN. The HIN is a 12 character serial number that uniquely 
identifies your boat. The HIN has an important safety purpose. It 
enables manufacturers to clearly identify for boat owners the boats that 
are involved in a defect notification and recall campaign. A HIN is not 
the same as a State registration number, which may be required to be 
displayed on the bow of your boat. The HIN is a Federal requirement; 
your boat’s registration number is a State requirement similar to the 
license plate on your car. The HIN, however, is required to be shown on 
the State certificate of registration.


http://boatsafe.com/nauticalknowhow/pre841.gif


http://boatsafe.com/nauticalknowhow/pre842.gif

AUG
SEP
OCT
NOV
DEC
JAN



A
B
C
D
E
F




FEB
MAR
APR
MAY
JUN
JUL



G
H
I
J
K
L

**Key to Month of Model Year*

*Figure 1 - HIN Formats Before August 1, 1984*

The boat manufacturer must display two identical hull identification 
numbers, no less than one-fourth of an inch high, on each boat hull. The 
primary HIN must be permanently affixed (so that it can be seen from 
outside the boat) to the starboard side of the transom within two inches 
of the top of the transom, gunwale, or hull/deck joint, whichever is 
lowest. On boats without transoms or on boats on which it would be 
impractical to the transom, the HIN must be affixed to the starboard 
outboard side of the hull, aft within one foot of the stern and within 
two inches of the top of hull side, gunwale, or hull/deck joint, 
whichever is lowest. The starboard outboard side of the hull aft is the 
preferred HIN location for many manufacturers. On catamarans and pontoon 
boats the HIN must be affixed on the aft crossbeam within one foot of 
the starboard hull attachment.


http://boatsafe.com/nauticalknowhow/aft84.gif

JAN
FEB
MAR
APR
MAY
JUN



A
B
C
D
E
F




JUL
AUG
SEP
OCT
NOV
DEC



G
H
I
J
K
L

*Figure 2 - HIN Format After August 1, 1984*

Boats manufactured or imported on or after August 1, 1984, also have a 
duplicate secondary HIN affixed somewhere on an unexposed location 
inside the boat or beneath a fitting or item of hardware. The purpose is 
to help authorities identify your boat if a thief or vandals remove or 
damage the primary HIN on the transom. It is illegal for anyone 
(manufacturer, dealer, distributor, or owner) to alter or remove a HIN 
without the express written authorization of the Commandant, U.S. Coast 
Guard.


The regulations prescribe the format of the HIN. The first three 
characters are a MIC (Manufacturer Identification Code) assigned by the 
Coast Guard to the manufacturer or the person importing the boat; 
characters four through eight are a serial number assigned by the 
manufacturer; the last four characters indicate the month and year the 
boat was built, and the model year. Prior to August 1, 1984, the 
manufacturer had the option of expressing this in the form of a model 
year designation.


The Coast Guard maintains a searchable database of MICs if you want to 
check yours out - click here .


Don Kern
Fireball C MkII
Bristol, RI


On 9/25/2019 8:41 PM, HV via CnC-List wrote:

Hi all,

Recently purchased a 1979 C 30 MK1, I have sent a payment to get the 
owners manual but I am unsure if it has rigging information.


So I am wondering if anyone would be willing to share some images of 
how their Cunningham/Downhaul may be rigged...


Additionally, for some reason the waste tank behind the bulkhead in 
the head has been abandoned, does anyone have any information on how 
this was setup?


I am really liking this boat (I have owned many), she is in very good 
condition and just needs some TLC, oh I am also interested in adding a 
bow anchor roller, has anyone done this to their 30Mk1?


Does anyone know how many blocks should be used as mast spacers and 
their placement? mine only has 5 and are installed randomly...


Lastly, how do I know the hull # for placing on my new Mainsail?


Thank in advance for any help, pictures and advice...


Fair Winds and Following Seas.

Hari

S/V Thalassa


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Re: Stus-List America's Cup

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

The nationality rules are slowing changing.  For 2021 in New Zealand the 
rules dictate:


Twenty percent or three crew, whichever is higher, must be citizens of 
the country of the competing yacht club. The remainder of the crew can 
be made up of residents of the challenging yacht club’s country which is 
defined by being physically present in that country for a minimum of 380 
days over a two year period, between 1 September 2018 and 31 August 2020.


Don Kern
/Fireball /C 35 Mk2
Bristol, RI



On 9/18/2019 9:47 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List wrote:
I have to go with Chuck on this one.  I agree that innovation only 
comes from racing and I wish that we required the boats to have native 
crews.


Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA
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Re: Stus-List Tuning the mast.

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

I have always attributed the slight difference in apparent performance 
between Port and Stb'd tacks to be the difference of water flow around 
the keel.  On my C 35 Mk2 the paddle for speed is on the port side aft 
of the leading edge of the keel. The mast head is centered and the mast 
is plumb with equal tension on the the lowers (the uppers are 2x the 
lowers). Keel and rudder were faired 15 years ago.


Don Kern
Fireball C 35 MkII
Bristol, RI



On 8/20/2019 12:32 PM, Len Mitchell via CnC-List wrote:

I am following this thread with great interest. I measured distances using the 
main halyard and believe my mast is plumb. The partners and foot hold the mast 
centred as far as I can tell and as long as the boat, keel and rudder are 
symmetrical. I continue to point higher and get better performance on a 
starboard tack and the boat lists a couple degrees at anchor, probably because 
of the battery bank located sb. There are more reasons than mast plumb that a 
boat performs better on one tack is my point. I noted better sb performance 
with all combinations of water tank and holding tank levels. I have tried for 
over 10 years to tune a better balance but she still sails a little better on 
starboard tack!
Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs
1989 37+
Midland On

Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List Survey About Racing

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

On 6/27/2019 10:16 AM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List wrote:
Hello Listers, I’d like to conduct a little survey about racing, 
tapping into the broad experience, geography, and boat diversity 
represented on this list. What prompted this is a discussion in my 
club about ratings, which expanded into a discussion about courses, 
tactics, and relative performance. I’d like to get perspective from 
the collective knowledge on this list, to add into that discussion. So 
here are some fairly objective survey questions, for those of you who 
race your boats: 


1. Where do you race? Narragansett Bay, Buzzards Bay, Long Island Sound

2. What wind conditions are the rule and exception there? 12 to 18 kts 
Spring & Fall , 5-10 kts late Jul to mid Aug  Note: all three regions 
experience Tidal Currents up to 4 kts


3. What kind of courses do you sail? Round the nav buoys

4. What sail plan do you fly? Main, Genoa, sym Spin

5. What model of boat are you racing? C Mk-2 (1974)

6. What PHRF rating do you race with? (please list adjustments) PHRF-NB 
134/156 (Base 126, Genoa+2, Main +9 (boom 2' short), Misc -3 (6' draft)) 
  PHRF-ECSA (OSC) 126/148 (Base 123, Main+6, LP of J +1, pole Spin 
g/spl -1, Keel mod -3)


7. What is your boat’s fastest point of sail? Reaching

8. Is there leapfrogging in your races, or do boat-for-boat positions 
stay fairly constant? Very dependent on wind conditions especially in 
July Aug where boats can sail into a hole and one has to very aware of 
current patterns in the light air


9. How many boats are you usually competing against? 10 to 18 in 
starting class


10. In general, how well do you perform in racing results? Usually top three

And now a few more subjective questions:

11. Do you think your boat’s rating assumes you’ll race it on a 
particular kind of course with a particular sail plan? PHRF-NB rates 
boats for around the buoys racing.  the rating assumes a specific sail 
and hull plan - modifications from standard are adjusted,  Sails are 
rated for both bigger and smaller than normal.  Most clubs in the area 
scoring is done using  Time on Time calculation method.


12. How do you think your local rating authority determines the rating 
for your boat? By boat/class ie; C Mk2. (Only three C Mk2 still 
racing on Narr. Bay; 2 offshore racers one Narra Bay only)  My rating 
has been fairly consistent for the last 35 yrs slowly increasing, no big 
jumps, incrementally +1 every few years = boats older, i am older, we 
are getting slower


If a specific boat competitor is doing extremely well the rating 
committee will look at boat modifications, boat preparation (who did the 
bottom, wet or dry sanded, how often cleaned), sail material, age of 
sails, crew experience (we have world class sailors racing here) and if 
needed make an adjustment.  If the boat was optimally prepared, with no 
modifications, and is getting 1st 2nd and 3rds and the crew is semi 
professional (lots of sail lofts and boat builders/designers here) they 
will leave the rating as is.  If the boat was not optionally prepared 
they will look for modifications and adjust accordingly.  The rating is 
for the boat, not for the crew, tactics nor sailing knowledge.


That said, there is adjustment by some of the clubs (Off Soundings, 
Twenty Hundred) to level the winners and give others a chance to win by 
imposing a Burden of Winning (BOW) penalty. In the Off Soundings series 
for achieving  1st, 2nd and 3rd place you will receive Performance 
Penalty Points factor of 3, 2 or 1 respectively where each point equals 
8 seconds. BOW Penalties points do accumulate to a maximum factor of 9 
points and expire after 3 yearly series.  For the Twenty Hundred Club 
series if you place in 1st, 2nd or 3rd position you receive a penalty 
which subtracts from your race rating 15 sec/mile, 10 sec/mile or 5 
sec/mile for first, second or third respectively.  This penalty is only 
imposed the for that series in the following year.


13. What do you think are the most important factors in your performance 
against your competition? Crew work, the correct sail choice, a good 
start, knowing the venue (wind & water), and knowing the boat's polars


14. What do you think are the most important race tactics for beating 
your competition? Good start - on the line moving at speed, If ahead do 
not let nearest competitors split, If following clear your air and take 
advantage of current and wind shifts.


Don Kern
/Firebal//l /C Mk2
Bristol, RI


Thank you very much in advance for your responses to this survey. Best 
Regards, Randy Stafford S/V Grenadine C 30-1 #7 Ken Caryl, CO 
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Re: Stus-List Block Island's Great Salt Pond - Town Mooring or Dock Reservation?

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

I usually make it to Block Is about three times a year and stay at 
Payne's Dock.  Most of the time for racing when New Harbor is crowded 
and moorings hard to find.  Payne's has fuel, water, elec., showers 
(25cents), bar with live music, and a snack bar. Boats are mostly tied 
up stern-to and may be rafted if real crowded (most weekends).  If 
directed to go up the narrow channel stay close to the docked boats, it 
shoals quickly on the left side and you have limited room to make 
sweeping 180 turns. Payne's reservations can be made on Dockwa: 
https://dockwa.com/


Don Kern
Fireball C 35 mk2
Bristol, RI



On 6/26/2019 4:01 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:

Tom,

I understand that moorings can sometimes be hard to obtain, especially 
on a weekend. As Neil pointed out, there is  no reservation system.


Plus, depending on how many of your crew is coming on the cruise, they 
may actually prefer being dockside at a marina, with easy access to 
showers, shore power, and everything else that Block Island has to offer.


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island Yacht Club | City Island, NY
Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 





On Jun 26, 2019, at 1:22 PM, Thomas Delaney via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Hi Listers,

My crew is demanding that I give them a break from racing so we are 
planning for our first cruise, heading up Long Island Sound to Newport 
and Block Island, next month. I've arranged dock space at the navy 
base in Newport, but I'm still working out the details for the stop at 
Block Island.


We'd be arriving on a Sunday afternoon and staying overnight. Does 
anyone know what the town mooring situation in the Great Salt Pond is 
like? Would it be better to forget about the moorings and make a 
reservation now at one of the marinas instead?


My worry is that all the town moorings will be occupied, the docks'll 
be full, and we'll have to set an anchor for the night. My anchor 
tackle is geared towards racing rather than cruising (150 ft of nylon 
rode with a short section of rubberized chain and a Fortress) so I'd 
like to avoid that.


Thanks for any advice or thoughts you may have!

Best,
Tom

---
Snow Goose
'73 C 35-1
City Island, NY

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Re: Stus-List Heavy weather sail trim

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Shawn

Yes, the traveler is still on the aft edge of the bridgedeck.  Of note, 
I still have not added traveler tackle system (blocks/jam cleats) 
because of trying to figure out how to remove the old traveler to get 
new cars mounted.  Instead we rig a line to the traveler/mainsheet 
shackle and run it athwart-ship to the forward cockpit winch.  The main 
sheet handler uses the winch to run the traveler to keep the lee rail 
dry.  We rarely use the main sheet once it is set for the wind.; ie when 
we run out of traveler in a gust.  The main sheet has a gross/fine trim 
cascading system (4:1 gross-trim and 16:1 fine-tune).  Also added a hard 
boom vang to get more control of the boom, prevents the boom from 
dipping thru the cockpit in an unintentional jibe, and removes the 
requirement for a topping lift when the main is not hosted.  When 
cruising, the boat handles and is balanced under only the 138% roller 
furl (no main).


Don Kern
/Fireball /C 35 Mk2
Bristol RI

On 6/20/2019 10:36 PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List wrote:

Hi Ron,

Interesting about your 35-2 setup. With such a short boom, is the 
traveller still on the bridgedeck? Our main is about 18" short of the 
boom end, but I assume it's the stock 13.5' boom. The headsails are 
totally custom: a solent rig inner furler with a smaller jib (marked 
95%, but due to stay moved aft, it does extend beyond mast), and the 
main furler having a 135 or so. We've only had the boat a month, so I 
haven't had time to measure the sails. In winds under 10-12, running 
the larger jib gains me about 1 knot of speed, but the hassle of 
having to furl on each tack means we run mostly the smaller jib, which 
can easily push the boat to 7+ knots in decent winds. Still practicing 
different sail options in varying conditions, but it seems whenever 
we're actually trying to get somewhere, we're either upwind in a stiff 
(20+) breeze, or have no wind at all :)

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com 
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


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Re: Stus-List Heavy weather sail trim

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Pete,

What I called the destroyed #3 was a jib-top (high cut clew, about 120%, 
on the boat we called it "#3 reacher") It had limited use off the wind 
and we only used in on very long reaches, which only occur in off-shore 
racing.  Also had a tall boy that came with the boat (1980), used it for 
a few seasons, but like the jib-top was only suitable for long spinnaker 
runs because of the hassle of setting the sail as a inner staysail and 
running more sheets/blocks.  However, with the short boom which makes my 
sail plan more like a cutter I am reconsidering - need to consider PHRF 
rules/ penalties and speak to sailmakers (plenty of those on 
Narragansett Bay).


Don Kern
/Fireball /C 35 Mk2
Bristol RI

On 6/20/2019 9:47 PM, Pete Shelquist wrote:


I’m curious how many have and use a Jib-Top?  Worth it?

*From:*CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Don 
Kern via CnC-List

*Sent:* Thursday, June 20, 2019 8:17 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Don Kern 
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Heavy weather sail trim

Ron

Fireball carries four head sails when racing each has a cut and weight 
appropriate to the apparent wind: light #1 150% (3-12 kts), #2 135% 
(12-20 kts),  #3 120%(18-28 kts) and  #4 85% (survival). The main has 
only two reefs, the lower reef points are placed between where a 1st 
and 2nd reef would normally be and a the upper a little above the 
position of a normal second reef.  The boat was optimized for SORC 
racing in the mid 70s by C and has a boom 2 ft shorter than normal 
(11.5 ft vs normal 13.5ft), thus I do not put a reef in until 15+ kts 
with a #2 flying.  We throw in (literally) the second reef with a #3 
when the boat is laying over too far. I find the boat feathers up 
nicely in heavy air and try to keep the toerail out of the water by 
easing the main down on the main track in gust.  Always trying adjust 
the sails to point and keep the boat on its feet (rail out of the water).


Cruising, we use a 138% roller furl and a main with three sets of reef 
points.


Seems like a lot of sails, but I've had the boat from 1980, so you do 
get a collection.   However, had to get a new #3 and #4 this year 
since I destroyed the 20+ yrs old #4 and had the old #3 de-laminate.


Don Kern
/Fireball /C 35 Mk2
Bristol RI

On 6/20/2019 4:37 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List wrote:

That sure seems to be true and I wonder why???  Are we just being
too cautious when we start with a no.2 or when we drop to the
no.3?  Or is there really no need ever for a no. 2?

Although cloth density might make a difference if our no. 1 is
really for light air.

Ron

Wild Cheri

C 30-1

STL

On Tuesday, June 18, 2019, 03:29:55 PM CDT, Dennis C. via CnC-List
 <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

For those of us race and change sails, one of my racer buddies
told me you never change down from a #1 to a #2. You always drop
to your #3. In my years racing since he told me that, I’ve come to
agree with him.

You might start with a #2 but you rarely change down to one.

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


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Re: Stus-List Heavy weather sail trim

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Ron

Fireball carries four head sails when racing each has a cut and weight 
appropriate to the apparent wind: light #1 150% (3-12 kts), #2 135% 
(12-20 kts),  #3 120%(18-28 kts) and  #4 85% (survival). The main has 
only two reefs, the lower reef points are placed between where a 1st and 
2nd reef would normally be and a the upper a little above the position 
of a normal second reef.  The boat was optimized for SORC racing in the 
mid 70s by C and has a boom 2 ft shorter than normal (11.5 ft vs 
normal 13.5ft), thus I do not put a reef in until 15+ kts with a #2 
flying.  We throw in (literally) the second reef with a #3 when the boat 
is laying over too far. I find the boat feathers up nicely in heavy air 
and try to keep the toerail out of the water by easing the main down on 
the main track in gust.  Always trying adjust the sails to point and 
keep the boat on its feet (rail out of the water).


Cruising, we use a 138% roller furl and a main with three sets of reef 
points.


Seems like a lot of sails, but I've had the boat from 1980, so you do 
get a collection.   However, had to get a new #3 and #4 this year since 
I destroyed the 20+ yrs old #4 and had the old #3 de-laminate.


Don Kern
/Fireball /C 35 Mk2
Bristol RI



On 6/20/2019 4:37 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List wrote:
That sure seems to be true and I wonder why???  Are we just being too 
cautious when we start with a no.2 or when we drop to the no.3?  Or is 
there really no need ever for a no. 2?
Although cloth density might make a difference if our no. 1 is really 
for light air.

Ron
Wild Cheri
C 30-1
STL


On Tuesday, June 18, 2019, 03:29:55 PM CDT, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
 wrote:



For those of us race and change sails, one of my racer buddies told me 
you never change down from a #1 to a #2. You always drop to your #3. 
In my years racing since he told me that, I’ve come to agree with him.


You might start with a #2 but you rarely change down to one.

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

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Re: Stus-List Metal Rod Forward of Keel

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Same on my C, ahead of the rudder. Always assume it was for the same 
reason David gave.



Don Kern

Fireball C MK2

Bristol, RI



On 4/26/2019 12:04 PM, David Risch via CnC-List wrote:
I have one just head of the rudder...keeps lines from jamming in the 
space between hull and rudder.  Never saw one ahead of keel.


*David F. Risch, J. D.*

*/GulfStreamAssociates,LLC/**
*

**

*(401) 419-4650 *



*From:* CnC-List  on behalf of John 
McLaughlin via CnC-List 

*Sent:* Friday, April 26, 2019 11:58 AM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* johnr...@aol.com
*Subject:* Stus-List Metal Rod Forward of Keel
All the C's in our yard have a metal rod that protrudes from the 
underside just ahead of the keel.  No one seems to know its purpose.


John McLaughlin
C 29-2
Falcon

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Re: Stus-List Maximum/Optimum Rudder Travel

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Dennis

After reading what others have said went back out to the boat and redid 
the measurement and it came out approximately the same - 67 degrees 
either direction for 134 degrees travel lock to lock. However, sailing 
on a tack the helm is move no more than 1/16 of a full turn, before the 
wind with swells that want to kick the stern around the helm is 
traversed no more than a quarter of a turn, for fast/hard tack maybe 
maybe a 1/2 turn.  The only time we ever used a single full turn is when 
we run out of air and the boat gets a mind of its own. Then it is used 
as a scull to get the boat pointed in the right direction. The wheel is 
off the boat so we can easily work on her, but I may mount one and see 
what rudder angles I get for different position/turns of the wheel.


BTW: The boat has two wheels one for cruising (original) and one for 
racing. The racing wheel is a large diameter that let you steer from 
either windward or leeward comfortably, but you can't get by it in the 
cockpit.


Don Kern
Fireball C Mk2
Bristol, RI



On 4/23/2019 7:35 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:

Don,

Just to clarify, are you saying 65 each side for 130 degrees total travel?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Apr 23, 2019, 9:09 AM Don Kern via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


FWIW - I just went out to my side yard and checked were Fireballs
stops are set.  Interestingly they are set at 65 deg., a lot more
than I expected since her rudder is two inches longer in girth
than a standard C 35 Mk2.

Don Kern
Fireball, C MK2
Bristol, RI





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Re: Stus-List Maximum/Optimum Rudder Travel

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

FWIW - I just went out to my side yard and checked were Fireballs stops 
are set.  Interestingly they are set at 65 deg., a lot more than I 
expected since her rudder is two inches longer in girth than a standard 
C 35 Mk2.


Don Kern
Fireball, C MK2
Bristol, RI


On 4/23/2019 9:12 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List wrote:

Dennis,
To echo Rob’s concerns regarding the creation of a robust rudder stop, 
if the previous iteration utilized two bolts inserted in the steering 
chain, I would take a thorough inspection of the pedestal sprocket. 
 Steel bolts coming into contact with bronze sprocket teeth under load 
or at high speed won’t be kind to the teeth.  Sprocket and chain 
replacement might be advised (unless if your pedestal is made by Morch 
or Cinkel in which case you’re out of luck finding a new sprocket).
Adding some heavy rubber bumpers or cushioning shock absorbers on your 
new rudder stop plate might allow it to last longer and be kinder to 
the new bulkhead as well.  A cut up piece of old exhaust hose might do 
the trick.

Cheers and best of luck,
Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic
1983 35 LF
Padanaram, MA

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 23, 2019, at 8:31 AM, John Irvin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:



That’s one of the great features of these designs.

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 23, 2019, at 8:22 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


And that 36 degrees, in both of my C (a 27 MKII and my current 
37/40+) have been enough to turn the boat in its own boat length 
going down a fairway between docks.


More than enough maneuverability in my opinion... :)

Thanks Rob!

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net 



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Re: Stus-List Toerail drainage - 35-2

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Dennis

No wonder you have green water on the deck. Your boat is sitting in 
green water !


Don Kern
Fireball C 35 Mk2
Bristol RI




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Re: Stus-List Gelcoat color

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Marc

Do what Dennis said get the AWL grip card and match the color. Awl grip 
has  more than one red.  Fireball is red and after wiping out a bell 
buoy in the fog (GPS can be very accurate) the person who did AWL grip 
got the wrong red and had to re-apply the red.


Don Kern
Fireball C 35 Mk2
Bristol RI


On 4/13/2019 11:03 AM, Marc Boyd via CnC-List wrote:

Thats a very good idea! Thanks for the tip :-)

Cheers,

marc.

On Apr 8, 2019, at 1:07 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Get a color sample card from Awlgrip. The samples have a hole in the 
middle of each color. Hold the card against the hull and peek through 
the hole.


Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 8, 2019, at 2:38 PM, Marc Boyd via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


I'd be really interested in finding out the colour code for my newly 
acquired '73 33' :-) She is Red. Any help, advice or direction would 
be greatly appreciated.


Regards,

marc.


On Mon, Apr 8, 2019 at 4:05 AM John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Ken

This was addressed a while (years?) back on this list.  We also
have the smoke white.  White base then so many drops of brown,
yellow and red as I recall.  When I get a moment will see if I
can find it in my records

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
] *On Behalf Of *Ken
Heaton via CnC-List
*Sent:* Sunday, April 07, 2019 8:26 PM
*To:* cnc-list
*Cc:* Ken Heaton
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Gelcoat color

The most common deck colour by far was "Smoke White".  There
were a few "Neptunus White" and a very few were actually "Pure
White or "White".

Renting the swatch book as Dennis suggests is a very good idea
I'd think.

Ken H.

On Sun, 7 Apr 2019 at 19:25, Chuck Borge via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Looking for input on original gelcoat color name/number for
our venerable C

My 41 is what I thought was white (but as my wife can
attest, my color vision leave much to be desired) however,
as I put a spot of base white on a repair, it is way off.

Does anyone know what color I'm trying to match?  I get the
35 years of elements taking their toll, but the gelcoat is
pretty thick on these boats, and I may sand out some of the
patina which will put me closer to the original color.

Thanks in advance,

Chuck

*Chuck Borge*

*Tenacious C*

*Somerset, MA*

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Re: Stus-List Prop shaft support on 35-2

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Shawn,

Just went outside to look at Fireball's prop /shaft.  She is close to 
the original arrangement that came from the factory with the Atomic (now 
rebuilt 2x).  She has newer replacement Martec 2 bladed folding prop 
that is 1 5/8" aft of the strut with a radius that meets the recommended 
hull clearance to keep vibration to a minimum.  I agree with Gary that 
that much unsupported shaft is a good way to get vibration.  The shaft 
on Fireball was replaced because the prop tip was 1/8" out of alignment 
due to a line getting wrapped around the shaft/prop causing vibration.  
Was amazed that so little shaft aft the strut could be bent.


Don Kern
Fireball 12708
Bristol RI



On 4/12/2019 12:03 AM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List wrote:
I just noticed what appears to be a fairly long extension of the prop 
shaft beyond the support on the 35-2 pictured here:


http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=168876=1524980874

It looks like there is at least 12" of shaft beyond the support before 
the prop, and bit less between the hull and the support. I recall 
reading a survey on a boat I was considering where the surveyor 
commented on excessive prop shaft extension as a possible cause of 
vibration. As this boat has a VW diesel (not sure of the 
transmission), I am wondered if the shaft might be too long.


How does this compare with other 35s?

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com 

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Re: Stus-List 35-2 headliner treatment; chainplate inspection

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Shawn,

Also have a C 35 Mk2 with not quite the number of holes in the 
overhead.   Last year I tidied up the the cabin by painting all the 
larger 4 - 8" covers white, since they had yellowed with age. Also 
bought a bag of 50 plastic hole plugs, 3/4" opening from dangoodbuy on 
ebay, which were translucent white nylon that I painted the same white.


https://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_odkw=nylon+hole+plugs&_ssn=dangoodbuy&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=hole+plugs+white+nylon++3%2F4%22&_sacat=0

Don Kern
Fireball C Mk-2
Bristol, RI




On 4/10/2019 11:36 AM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List wrote:
We are considering a '74 35-2 which has had quite a number of holes 
drilled through the interior headliner, for the purpose of 
through-bolting (and apparently epoxy filling/drilling, but not 
confirmed by me) various hardware, including replacement stainless 
grab rails. In some areas, 4-8" circular holes were cut, and white 
acrylic panels similar to the factory panels were added, which look 
ok. For the grab rails, there is just a series of 1" holes. There are 
also a few places where access was cut for wiring. As a result, the 
headliner is not too tidy, with a bit of a swiss cheese look.


What I am wondering is whether anyone has successfully made a 
headliner cover from vinyl, fabric or semi rigid material like I've 
seen done on other boats. My first thought is that the complex curves 
in the cabin top would make this very difficult to do well. I have 
seen one example where the white covers were in teak veneer (maybe 
this was an option?) but I think that might just make them stand out more.


Also, something more critical than headliners - what do I look for 
when inspecting the chainplates on the 35-2? If I get a chance on this 
boat, I will need to look closely at them. Are they visible behind the 
sliding storage doors, or do I need to take things apart to fully inspect?


--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com 

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Re: Stus-List Mooring bouy new hollow style - and advice/experience?

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

    https://www.defender.com/warehouse-sale19.html

    Thursday    3/28/19     9 AM - 7 PM
 Friday    3/29/19     9 AM - 7 PM
 Saturday    3/30/19     9 AM - 6 PM
 Sunday    3/31/19    10 AM - 3 PM

Don Kern
Fireball C Mk2
Bristol, RI



On 3/21/2019 5:39 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:


Defender Warehouse Sale — March 28-31. Thursday start.

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island Yacht Club | City Island, NY

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 




On Mar 21, 2019, at 5:37 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


I thought it started Thursday???  Dave

PS- Will I see you there at the line area?

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



On Mar 21, 2019, at 5:03 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Defender Warehouse sale starts Wednesday.  Don’t buy it until then.
Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic

Sent from my iPhone




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Re: Stus-List Downwind sailing- Whisker pole length and height

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

If you are racing under PHRF it is best to check the rating instructions 
for your region.  Below are the regions I race in:


In PHRF-NB (Narragansett Bay) the instruction states:
    REPORTABLE ITEMS OR MODIFICATIONS:
        R6) Rig modifications such as, but not limited to:
            b. spinnaker/whisker poles exceeding 101% of the J dimension.
            (this means you get penalized if a whisker pole exceeds the 
J by a variable amount depending on how long the pole is)


For ECSA PHRF  (Eastern Connecticut) the instruction states:
    REPORTABLE ITEMS OR MODIFICATIONS:
        Whisker Poles - Whisker poles must be declared, but there is no 
whisker pole length (WPL) limit


For PHRF-NE  (New England) the handicap instruction states:
    8.11 The standard class handicap for a yacht of a particular design 
assumes the following equipment, unless the yacht is handicapped in a 
one-design configuration:
        3. spinnaker pole (SPL) the same length as J; whisker poles 
shall be the same length as J;


And further the Racing Rules address outriggers (which are Spinnaker and 
Whisker poles) as:


50.3. Use of Outriggers
a. No sail shall be sheeted over or through an outrigger, except as 
permitted in rule 50.3(b) or 50.3(c). An outrigger is any fitting or 
other device so placed that it could exert outward pressure on a sheet 
or sail at a point from which, with the boat upright, a vertical line 
would fall outside the hull or deck. For the purpose of this rule, 
bulwarks, rails and rubbing strakes are not part of the hull or deck and 
the following are not outriggers: a bowsprit used to secure the tack of 
a sail, a bumkin used to sheet the boom of a sail, or a boom of a boomed 
headsail that requires no adjustment when tacking.
b. Any sail may be sheeted to or led above a boom that is regularly used 
for a sail and is permanently attached to the mast from which the head 
of the sail is set.
c. A headsail may be sheeted or attached at its clew to a spinnaker pole 
or whisker pole, provided that a spinnaker is not set.


Don Kern
Fireball C Mk2
Bristol, RI


On 3/21/2019 9:50 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote:
I checked our rules and there is no limitation on whisker pole length 
in our region.  Dave



On Mar 20, 2019, at 6:24 PM, Michael Brown via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


I race handicapped by PHRF Lake Ontario which has no rating 
adjustment for whisker pole length.  I picked
up a Forespar Line Control which goes out to 22', a fair bit for a 
30' boat.


In light air, 4 knots TWS, setting the sails perpendicular to the 
wind works as well as anything else I have tried.

That has the pole low at both ends, barely above the lifelines.

At a higher wind speed the common advise is to trim the genoa so the 
wind flows around it as opposed to
it being a barn door. That will bring the pole back so it is more 
perpendicular to the wind, usually the
inboard end up the mast a bit and the leach pointing into the wind. A 
bit like trimming a spinnaker.


Forespar has a diagram here:

https://www.forespar.com/pdf/F6.1-whisker-pole-brochure.pdf

Not having the leech bouncing around helps. For me that means 
adjusting the inboard end to get enough

down pressure.

For a genoa with a 21' LP I will use all 22' of whisker pole in light 
air and about 18' in moderate air.
In heavier air I switch to the spin pole which is 14.5' ( oversized 
and I take a penalty ). I can tell it is not optimal but works OK.


Michael Brown
Windburn
C 30-1


Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2019 12:42 PM
Cc: David Knecht mailto:davidakne...@gmail.com>>



We race non-spinnaker class and a few years ago I got an
extendable whisker pole for the genoa.  I am unsure about optimal
settings for pole height and length.   I suspect it is sometimes
suboptimal because I have noticed some boats able to carry the
genoa poled out at much closer angles than I have achieved.
 Presumably the optimal pole angle is near perpendicular to the
apparent wind.  It seems that extending the pole flattens the
sail to some extent but I suspect it is more complicated than
that.  Height I have no idea.  Any general rules of thumb?



Related to this, the VMG chart I have from C  has optimal VMG
downwind apparent angle of about 140-145? true.  Are those
numbers +spinnaker, -spinnaker standard or -spinnaker wing on
wing with whisker pole?  Thanks- Dave



S/V Aries

1990 C 34+

New London, CT

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Dr. David Knecht
Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology
University of Connecticut
91 N. Eagleville Rd.
Storrs, CT 06269-3125




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Re: Stus-List Headsail only in strong winds astern

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Rob,

When I am out for a cruise I will use my roller furl only - upwind, 
reaching and downwind. A lot less hassle and i am not worried about 
someone losing their head to the boom or fingers to the main traveler.  
The roller furl is 140% and most importantly the helm is balanced going 
upwind.  Main only, the boat is a dog upwind.


Don Kern
Fireball, C Mk2
Bristol, RI



On 3/19/2019 1:56 PM, robert via CnC-List wrote:
Interesting comments for sailing down wind..my preference is to 
sail with the main aloneleave the jib furled.my boat, a 32, 
feels better balanced, better control of the sail, the bow is not 
being pulled downward, better helm.


Would I rather unfurl and furl a jib over hoisting and folding a main, 
you bet.but my boat preforms better with the main alone, or at the 
least, I think it does.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.


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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Headsail only in strong winds astern

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Morgan, I have heard this also, but I believe it depends on the unique 
characteristics of the boat/mast.  Fireball a C 35 Mk 2 has taken some 
pretty powerful unintentional jibes and spinnaker unloading and loading 
while racing.  The 35 Mk2 really has a telephone pole for a mast and in 
these cases do not think the mainsail helps but also adds to the 
problem. In a jibe it is also unloading as it passes centerline, then 
loads with all the pressure being offset to a side but fwd on the mast.  
A very jarring/shuddering experience. Never have I turned around to see 
what the psi on the backstay reads, too concerned to steering the boat 
under the sails.


For newer boats with fractional, lightweight/bendable mast this axiom 
may very well could be true.


My $0.02.

Don Kern
Fireball C Mk2
Bristol, RI



On 3/18/2019 4:18 PM, Morgan Ellis via CnC-List wrote:
I would love to hear Mr. Ball chime in on this thread, if possible, 
from a mast design point of view. I have been told by a very 
experienced offshore sailor and the instructor of Offshore Sea 
Survival courses, that the masts are designed to have a mainsail 
hoisted and are not stable or properly supported without it. The 
instructor stated that if you were to drop the main because of high 
winds that you should be hoisting a storm sail in its place, if for no 
other reason than to support the mast. Since then the only time I will 
run on jib alone is in light air drifting around the harbour for an 
evening pleasure cruise.


Regards,

Morgan Ellis
s/v Meandher

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Re: Stus-List sail folding machine questionnaire

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Bill

Yup, the Rule 55 does curtail the use of sail stops going into a water.  
However, some of the venues (OAs) add to the Sailing Inst the following 
phrase "RRS 55 - A competitor shall not intentionally put trash in the 
water. This rule applies at all times while afloat. The penalty for a 
breach of this rule may be less than disqualification. However, 
discarding elastic or wool bands when setting a sail is permitted."


Don
Fireball C 35 II
.
On 3/9/2019 12:32 PM, WILLIAM WALKER via CnC-List wrote:


Don,
   Isn't the use of rubber bands on spinnakers, or yarn, or anything 
that goes overboard intentionally during a race, banned by Rule 55 of RRS?

   That's what I have read and been told.
Bill Walker
C 36
Pentwater, Mi

Bill Walker




On Saturday, March 9, 2019 Don Kern via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Joe

Like Morgan I race my boat, so we fold the genoas after each race, a
least once per week, maybe two genoas per race. The mainsail is furled
on the boom and covered. The spinnakers are rubber banded and then care
fully stuffed into a spinnaker turtle.

Don
Fireball C 35 II


On 3/8/2019 9:24 AM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List wrote:
> This is for my son's engineering class. His team is building a sail
> folding machine and this is part of the project. The prototype will
> probably be sized for Laser/420 type sails. They need 100 answers to
> this before they proceed.
>
> There is no marketing or spam involved here unless Google is doing it.
> It does not ask you for names or emails.
>
>> 
https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSepqfvKhPJykXVBQj8ZVRxEJS5gswZAIRJx1mOEbjiWgYcsRw/viewform 
<https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSepqfvKhPJykXVBQj8ZVRxEJS5gswZAIRJx1mOEbjiWgYcsRw/viewform 
>

>>
>
>
> Thanks!
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list
> - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

>
>

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Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the 
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Re: Stus-List sail folding machine questionnaire - now folding a headsail

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Dennis

Do the same on Fireball where we launch Genoas out of a long zip bag 
that is secured to the toe rail. We pull the zipper forward to open the 
bag and attach the tack and head (led thru the pre-feed and onto the the 
twin foil). Pull the zipper back on aft end of bag which is laid between 
cabin and shrouds and and attach the sheets with bowlines.  Have not 
used soft shackles yet and am reluctant to do so.  We do a lot of short 
tacking to stay out the current so the sails do a lot of thrashing about 
every ten to twenty minutes.  Last season a J-30 had his main halyard 
soft shackle drop the main about 20 minutes into the race.  Had a very 
difficult time trying to recover the halyard, since the J-30 is a 
fractional rig and the s-shackle was in the sheave at the mast head.


Don

Fireball C II


On 3/9/2019 12:48 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:


We all have our preferred way of doing things on our boats.  :)

As a racer and long time foredeck, I fold all my headsails with the 
luff tape on top of itself.  If you do what I call a "cruiser fold" 
with the folds parallel to the foot and the head ending up in the 
middle, you risk ripping the luff tape when you launch the head sail.  
The tape will have to come from well aft of the pre-feeder or feeder 
and make a sharp bend from horizontal to vertical before feeding up 
the track. An overly enthusiastic crewperson jumping the sail might 
cause the luff tape to rip off.


The way you do it is to take a "half" fold at the luff only.  This 
will "cock" the sail slightly.  After the half fold, match the folds 
with the luff laying on top of itself. The leech will form a sawtooth 
as the leech folder works his/her way towards the luff.  The head is 
then folded to lie next to the tack.  When launching, the foredeck can 
easily find and hook up the tack and head.


The luff tape should lay well forward in the bow pulpit an be directly 
under the pre-feeder/feeder so it hoists straight up without bending.


Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Sat, Mar 9, 2019 at 11:09 AM Rick Brass via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:



And I fold my hank on sails with a different pattern than the
sails with luff tape. With a luff tape, each fold is parallel to
the foot of the sail and the head of the sail ends up
approximately in the middle of the sail before I start rolling it
up. But when I was learning to sail on Lake Michigan 5 decades ago
with hank on sails, I learned to fold the sail perpendicular to
the luff so all the hanks were exposed. That way you could put the
sail down on the deck, connect the tack, put all the hanks on the
Headstay, and then just unroll the sail and hoist. And that
minimizes the time you need to stand on the pointy end of the boat
for a sail change.




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Re: Stus-List sail folding machine questionnaire

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Joe

Like Morgan I race my boat, so we fold the genoas after each race, a 
least once per week, maybe two genoas per race. The mainsail is furled 
on the boom and covered. The spinnakers are rubber banded and then care 
fully stuffed into a spinnaker turtle.


Don
Fireball C 35 II


On 3/8/2019 9:24 AM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List wrote:
This is for my son's engineering class. His team is building a sail 
folding machine and this is part of the project. The prototype will 
probably be sized for Laser/420 type sails. They need 100 answers to 
this before they proceed.


There is no marketing or spam involved here unless Google is doing it. 
It does not ask you for names or emails.


https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSepqfvKhPJykXVBQj8ZVRxEJS5gswZAIRJx1mOEbjiWgYcsRw/viewform 




Thanks!

Joe

Coquina



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Re: Stus-List Kaylarah for Sale

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Gary

Very sorry to hear that.  Give me a yell if you are interested in 
crewing in some of the races or just a day sail.


Don Kern
Fireball, 12708 C Mk2
Bristol, RI



On 1/30/2019 4:23 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List wrote:
      I am very sad to report that Kaylarah is for sale.  Life's 
circumstances have brought us to this point.  Most of you who have 
followed my posts of a 3-1/2 year restoration project know ho much 
love and effort have gone into restoring her and some of you have even 
visited us.  She is now on YachtWorld 
with 
the hope she will go to a good home to be loved and appreciated as 
much as we have.  For reference, my previous boat was Expresso (C 35 
Mk II).


Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA
~~~_/)~~


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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: AC75 boats

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

I bet that is similar to what was said 1900's when the America Cup boats 
went to cross cut sails and the Marconi rig. Then again when they went 
from the 12 meters to the IACC boats, never mind the foiling cats. "just 
saying" own Fireball for 39 years


Don Kern
Docent, Herreshoff Marine Museum
Fireball C Mk2
Bristol, RI


On 1/28/2019 7:27 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:


I too like the 12 meters, but I would like the cup to revert to 
J-Class boats even more.


Catamarans with wing sails just don’t do anything for me.

(thread creep – when I was at flight school someone combined an old 
Hobie Cat and a wing from the aircraft junkyard into an early version 
of one of these LOL )


Joe

Coquina

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*schiller via CnC-List

*Sent:* Sunday, January 27, 2019 5:55 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* schiller
*Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List AC75 boats

The Parker Hannifin Division that I retired from was making aircraft 
grade axial piston pumps for the last AC boats.  We provided electric 
motor pumps for the practice boats but the race boats are mechanically 
driven.  The hydraulics were for the foils and winches.  The grinders 
are actually driving the two speed pumps.a  I retired just before we 
delivered the race units.


The previous division that I worked for also made Electro Hydraulic 
Servo Valves (EHSV) for formula 1 race cars to control suspension and 
fuel delivery.


Interesting work but I still prefer the old 12 meters and actually 
having to sail the boat.


Neil Schiller
1983 C 35-3, #028, "Grace"
Whitehall, Michigan
WLYC


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Re: Stus-List AC75 boats

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Here is a link to the prototype sailing on Narragansett Bay. Boats being 
built here in Bristol


https://www.sail-world.com/news/212034/American-Magic-show-off-AC75-test-boat--Video

Don Kern
Fireball 12708
Bristol RI



On 1/27/2019 5:08 PM, dwight veinot via CnC-List wrote:
Have you folks checked out the AC75 design that will be used in the 
next Americas Cup. Monohull, twin port and stbd foils,self righting, 
soft sales and very fast. Think in days after we are all long gone 
these designs will be common place around yacht clubs. I would love to 
jump onboard one of these babies for an Afternoon sail

--
Sent from Gmail Mobile

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Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Steve,

Have a C Mk2 that we cruise and race in all the different weather 
that we have in New England ( Spring and Fall 15+kts, late July/early 
Aug light air).   One of he great things about her for cruising is that 
I have a 145 cruising roller furl headsail that we use alone (no main) 
in winds above 12kts.  The boat is well balanced under that headsail 
alone and as my wife says we're not as tippy.


In light air her performance is good due to her longer waterline and 
taller rig (if you compare to other boats you find that the Mk2 compares 
favorably with a ~37 footer).  Because of her weight it takes a little 
longer to get her up to speed, but conversely you can ghost from one 
patch of air to the next.


Don Kern
/Fireball /C Mk2
Bristol, RI


On 1/10/2019 7:48 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List wrote:
I was really focused on rough weather performance when I was shopping 
but the reality was much different. After some foolhardy excursions we 
chose not to sail in rough conditions, it wasn't fun. Out there on the 
West coast you might not have the choice all the time. This is 
something I would consider more carefully next time I buy. We're 
coastal cruisers, most anything will do if you pay attention to the 
weather. I would take that Westsnail completely off the list.


The CS 36T is a fabulous boat, that's on my short list for next. But I 
love C, and they're cheaper.


Steve


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Re: Stus-List Cockpit scupper drains - stories version

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Dwight

Same here.  The aft cockpit valves were removed and the aft scuppers 
were T'ed to the forward valves.  When I was getting the bottom of the 
boat ready for paint I could make out the where they had been.  It was 
most likely done at the factory as /Fireball/ was campaigned by C in 
the 1975 SORC series.


Don Kern
Fireball C 35 MkII
Bristol, RI



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Re: Stus-List Speaking of cockpit locker latches

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Dennis

To avoid being trapped we have attached a length of shockcord to the 
back side of the latch so it hangs down into the locker.  It is a 
straight section going to a loop.  The straight section's end has a 
small diameter copper pipe that has been crimped flat (using a vice in 
my workshop) then having holes drilled so matches the cover's latch 
holes.  The other end forms a loop by crimping. That loop is just long 
enough to go over the main winch and keep the seat/cover open.


My biggest problem has been with the three hinges in that they have 
cracked/broken.  It seems that the back edge of the seat/cover was not 
sealed and and the core compressed allowing shear across the face of the 
hinge.  All have been replaced which is a two man job, one inside with a 
nut driver trying to not loose the nuts/washers to the bilge god and the 
other topside doing the screwing.


Don Kern
Fireball 35-2, 12708
Bristol, RI


On 1/4/2019 11:00 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
Touche' still has the original cockpit locker hasp style latches.  You 
know the ones that are "upside down" so they close when the lid is 
down trapping me in the locker. I actually don't mind them because I 
drape a coil of line or a towel over the opening whenever I'm in the 
locker and on the boat alone.  However, these old hasps probably don't 
comply with ABYC.


The solution is probably some swivel style hasps like these:

https://www.hingeoutlet.com/products/s3853-0002

The reason I haven't replaced them or flipped them 180 degrees is 
because I haven't found any that match or hide the old bolt pattern.  
Any listers found hasps that fit?


Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

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Re: Stus-List Cockpit scupper drains

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

With all this discussion of the cockpit drains I went out to my boat 
(C MkII, which spends winter in my side yard) to check the layout 
and take some measurements.  The two scupper valves are 9" from the 
centerline (18" apart) and are approx. 20" below the waterline.  The 
cockpit deck (floor) is 12" above the waterline. The forward T-cockpit 
drain is 26" above the hull at the valve and valve top is 5 1/4" tall 
measured from the outside of the hull at the valve exit.  Both valves 
are faired flush to the hull.  The aft cockpit scupper drains which are 
T'ed into the forward scuppers valves are further outboard and a little 
lower. It is these scuppers that have water when heeling over to the 
point that we have water coming over the leeward rail.  I have attached 
a diagram of the set up.  It appears that cross connecting the scuppers 
would not help keep water out of the aft cockpit as the boat would have 
to have the spreaders almost in the water.  Portends I have bigger 
problems then water in the cockpit.


Don Kern
Fireball, C Mk2
Bristol, RI
On 1/3/2019 1:47 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
As I recall, on my 35-1 it takes 15-20 degrees for water to emerge 
from the leeward steering station scupper.  That's just when it's 
starting to get fun!


Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Thu, Jan 3, 2019 at 11:16 AM Garry Cross via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Understand that. Wonder what degree of heel it would take to
achieve that.

On Wed, Jan 2, 2019 at 3:01 PM Neil Andersen
mailto:neil.eric.ander...@gmail.com>> wrote:

The issue is when the cockpit holes AND the thru-hulls are
both below the line.



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Re: Stus-List Reaching Strut Pole replacement

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

I race quite a bit (more than I cruise) and I have not used the reaching 
strut in years, though it carried below on the shelf above the v-berth.  
We use both a sheet and a guy attached to each clue.  The sheet is lead 
to a turning blocks at the aft most opening on the toe rail, the guy is 
lead to a snatch block on the toe rail about a foot aft of the lower-aft 
shroud, then inboard aft to the cockpit.  In light air we will drop the 
guy and just go with the sheet.  The shackle of the guy is normally 
hooked into the ring of the sheet's shackle. For spinnaker take downs we 
grab the lazy guy, easy since there is no tension on it, lead it over 
the life line down the companionway into cabin. Then let the pole go 
forward and blow the sheet's shackle (guy is hooked into the sheet) and 
haul the chute down behind the main. Two other advantages with this 
arrangement is that with the guy led into the toe rail amidships it also 
acts as a pole downhaul and when running dead before the wind, in very 
heavy blow we choke the spinnaker with the lazy guy to inhibit death roles.


Don Kern
Fireball C MK2
Bristol, RI
On Fri, Dec 7, 2018 at 11:04 AM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


   Listers:
    Different topic for the collective wisdom of the group.  The
   reaching strut that came with my boat did not match up with the deck
   mounts, both in terms of the end fittings and pole length.  I bought
   replacement deck mount fittings and was going to mount them closer
   together, but decided to study the issue to try to figure out why a
   prior owner shortened the strut (and whether a longer strut is
   necessary).  We concluded this past summer that: a) the extra foot
   or so of length will definitely help protect the aft stanchions much
   better; and b) the prior owner probably broke the original strut and
   decided to rebuild it using the undamaged portion (or obtained a
   replacement strut from someone else).
    The tubing is 3 1/2”.  I am only aware of Forespar selling this
   type/size tubing.  I need about 6 1/2’ of tubing, but the shortest
   length Forespar sells is 12 feet, which is expensive.  Shipping is
   also expensive, even if the pole is cut to the desired length.  I
   really don’t want to spend $500 or so to extend the reaching strut
   to its original length. Suggestions?
    Matt Wolford
    C 42 Custom
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