Re: [Elecraft] Real 2" x 4" Lumber

[WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft]

Even planed lumber has changed.  WW2 era planed 2x4 was 2 3/4 x 1 3/4.  It 
changed sometime in the late 40s.  Renovators should be equipped with a tape 
and measure before buying lumber.

  From: Jim Brown 
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Thursday, August 11, 2016 12:29 PM
 Subject: [Elecraft] Real 2" x 4" Lumber
   
Indeed the finished dimension of lumber HAS changed. Renovating the wood 
frame home I owned in Chicago, built around the turn of the century, 
after the Great Chicago Fire, I found REAL 2" x 4" and 2" x 6" lumber.

I also removed at least 100 ft of gas pipe used for lighting. When first 
wired for electricity, wiring was run through those pipes and light 
fixtures replaced the gas lights. Obviously, they were first 
disconnected from the gas line, which was still used for heat. :)

Another thing that's changed is the sweet corn that we can buy in the 
market -- it's now much sweeter with little real corn taste. As long as 
I've been eating it, corn was always hybridized for taste, but it always 
tasted like corn. What we get now is hybridized and genetically 
engineered stuff that resists the chemicals used to kill weeds.  It  
looks like corn, but tastes like a sugar bowl.  Small farmers used to 
harvest their own seeds to plant next year's crop, and to grow corn that 
tasted the way they and their customers wanted. But when that chemical 
resistant stuff was invented something like 10 years ago, Monsanto, the 
big seed company that invented it, sued those farmers, claiming that 
some of their patented stuff had cross-fertilized those corn plants, and 
within a few years, that phony corn is all we can buy. I used to buy a 
half dozen ears, steam them, and eat them for lunch. I haven't been able 
to do that for years.

73, Jim K9YC

  On Thu,8/11/2016 9:17 AM, Charlie T, K3ICH wrote:
> Bad analogy.  The 2 X 4 inch measurement of a piece of construction lumber
> is before planning, or rough cut lumber.  The finished dimension is more
> like 3½ X 1½ which hasn't changed.


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Re: [Elecraft] ½ λ dipoles

[WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft]

Try any handbook before 1957 when transistors became available.  If you can't 
find them at the ARRL, try E-BAY as they are only available used.K5EWJ 
(original 1956 issued call sign)

  From: rick jones via Elecraft 
 To: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net"  
 Sent: Saturday, August 6, 2016 1:00 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] ½ λ dipoles
   
Fascinating discussion. Anybody know of any noteworthy books that cover the 
subject? Especially tube transmitters and their antennas. Given my love for 
Steam trains, breadboard receivers  and Ham Radio, I sometimes think I was born 
about 50 years too late!
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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key Recommendation

[WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft]

As a long term member of SKCC (Straight Key Century Club) I offer the following 
reasons.  It is more fun, it allows easier speed diversity, it is traditional.  
If your objective is to strictly send the best CW possible as easy as possible, 
type it on a keyboard and use a computer.  If you want to come as close as 
possible using hand generated code, use a set of paddles of your choice.  My 
choice is a Bencher Hex.  If you want to do it the hard way, start with a 
Straight Key and work up to a Bug.  It will be more fun.  What ever method you 
use, get started with what you have, can beg, borrow or steal, you will not 
regret it!  If this does not satisfy or run you off, contact me and I will give 
you more info after  Field Day, meanwhile, join a club at Field Day and expect 
at least as many opinions as operators you contact.Willis 'Cookie' Cooke,K5EWJ, 
SKCC 4077S

  From: rick jones via Elecraft 
 To: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net"  
 Sent: Friday, June 24, 2016 11:21 AM
 Subject: [Elecraft] CW Key Recommendation
   
Could someone recommend a desktop key that is close to the size and action of 
the key attached to the KX3? This Advanced class ham has not sent code in 
decades and I would like to start sending on my K3 so can someday use a KX on 
CW from a remote location. I will be practically starting from scratch but I'm 
guessing there's no reason to start with a straight key right? Thanks for your 
thoughts! Rick N3IKQ
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Ultrabeam, a SteppIR alternative

[WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft]

SteppIR has a new controller with improved lightning protection now. Willis 
'Cookie' Cooke,

  From: Bill Frantz 
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Friday, May 6, 2016 9:29 AM
 Subject: [Elecraft] [OT] Ultrabeam, a SteppIR alternative
   
A German ham informed me about the Ultrabeam antenna and 
provided the URL:

  

He thinks their controller has better lightning protection than 
the SteppIR controller. He has had a 2 element version for about 
5 years with no major problems. It has survived several storms 
with high winds and the Bavarian winters.

73 Bill AE6JV

---
Bill Frantz        | Truth and love must prevail  | Periwinkle
(408)356-8506      | over lies and hate.          | 16345 
Englewood Ave
www.pwpconsult.com |              - Vaclav Havel | Los Gatos, 
CA 95032

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Re: [Elecraft] 4-ohm to 8-ohm question

[WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft]

Eddy, the transformers were made tor tube type amplifiers where the output was 
several thousand ohms and transforming was needed.  Some audiophiles still use 
tube amplifiers for mellow sounds from music, but the transistor output stages 
match either 4 or 8 ohm speakers directly and are fine for communications audio 
or ordinary tone deaf  listeners for music. Willis 'Cookie' Cooke,

  From: Phil Kane 
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Monday, May 2, 2016 4:04 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 4-ohm to 8-ohm question
   
On 5/2/2016 1:15 PM, Eddy Avila wrote:

> In the "olden" days I would simply use a 4-ohm to 8-ohm audio transformer, 
> but I can't find them anymore!

Not necessary because today's audio amplifier designs do not require
matched impedances.  You are "good to go" with no further matching.
--
73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100  s/n 5402

From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
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[Elecraft] SteppIR

[WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft]

I have had a SteppIR 3 element with about 250 feet of RG-213.  I have not 
measured the loss, but with a KW or less can work DXCC in about 30 days without 
a contest.  I lost an ECU on driven with a tape pawl failure, but pawl has been 
upgraded twice since purchase.  I lost three ECUs during Ike from failure of 
the fiberglass tube that failed after over an hour in eye at over 120 mph 
estimated.  The fiberglass elements all fell to ground, but were reused.  The 
returns on the trombone were replaced.  I lost one stepper motor in the driven 
element from a lightning.strike.  I lost the control cable when I did not leave 
enough slack and broke it in two.  A lot to be sure, but considering where I 
live, not too bad.  It is on a Rohn 25 tilt over at about 21 meters. Willis 
'Cookie' Cooke,K5EWJ
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Re: [Elecraft] Wattmeter for K3s Calibration

[WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft]

I found a Cavalier King Charles figure stamp, a "This Envelope Sealed with Dog 
Slobber" stamp and a "I'd Rather be Flying" stamp, several Ink Pads and a 
re-inking roller in Black.  That is only in one drawer. Willis 'Cookie' Cooke,

  From: Ron D'Eau Claire 
 To: 'Clay Autery' ; 'Elecraft Reflector' 
 
 Sent: Tuesday, April 26, 2016 9:57 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Wattmeter for K3s Calibration
   
For the Transmitter Gain calibration, all you need is a decent dummy load.
The LP-100A is not a dummy load. My 20-year old inexpensive MFJ dummy load
does a good job for that. (But note it has never been abused, such as
running power into it until it gets hot or smells.) A well designed dummy
load will have very little reactance from stray capacitance or inductance.
That leaves only the value of the resistive element, which you can check
with your DMM. It's the resistive element that is most susceptible to damage
from overheating it, just like any other resistor.  

For calibrating the wattmeter in your K3S beyond the factory setting,
whatever makes you happy is perfect. There is no operational or performance
advantage to "improving" the factory settings. The LP-100A claims 3% power
display accuracy which is much better than most (if the claims are true).
For example, the ARRL lab is quoted in their manual saying "They specify
their measurement error for power as +/- 5%, and for PEP power, +/- 8%."
Note the +/- meaning the power error may vary by 10% for constant carrier
and 16% PEP. Those are much more typical values for good, even lab quality
power measurement equipment.  

73, Ron AC7AC 

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Clay
Autery
Sent: Tuesday, April 26, 2016 6:50 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] Wattmeter for K3s Calibration

Would the LP-100A meet the accuracy/precision requirements to do the power
cals outlined in the K3s Manual?

If not, please supply recommendation for one that will do the job
adequately.

Thanks!

--
__
Clay Autery, KG5LKV
MONTAC Enterprises
(318) 518-1389

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Mobile operation "bible"

[WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft]

Interesting comments Mel.  I have purchased  a Little Tarheel and installed it 
on my vehicle, but I have not got around to doing anything with it.  I have a 
MFJ tuner that looks like it will work as well as the one you use.  Are you 
using a Coax switch?  I would be interested in your pictures if you have them 
on line.  I also have a MFJ tuner that I have not installed as yet, but it 
looks like if you installed the tuner so that it is in line with the anslyzer 
or the rig when you have a coax switch installed you could use auto tune and 
then see what you have as well. Willis 'Cookie' Cooke,

  From: Mel Farrer via Elecraft 
 To: Bill Frantz ; "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
 
 Sent: Thursday, March 31, 2016 4:13 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: Mobile operation "bible"
   
While I never tune while driving, I got rid of the autotuners for the HI-Q 
5-160 antenna and installed a switch to allow me to transfer the antenna to a 
FG-01 analyzer.  So when I need to move frequency, I pull over stop, switch to 
the analyzer and tune the antenna.  Simple and fool proof.  Legal too.  
Pictures on file.

Mel, K6KBE


      From: Bill Frantz 
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Thursday, March 31, 2016 1:27 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: Mobile operation "bible"
  
I have a Little Tarheel screwdriver antenna on the 4Runner. It 
works well on 21MHz and higher, and less well as you go down in 
frequency. When parked, I try to add an external counterpose 
clipped to the ground side of the antenna mount, which seems to 
help on 40M. I really think you want your counterpose to be on 
the order of 1/4 wave long, and the 4Runner isn't 10 meters long.

I do remember doing search and pounce in the California QSO 
party on 80M. As I tuned up the band and found a new station, I 
had to re-turn the antenna, which I did while giving my call. 
Everyone who answered said something along the line of, "You're 
down in the noise, but we'll make it work." I thank them.

73 Bill AE6JV

---
Bill Frantz        | I don't have high-speed      | Periwinkle
(408)356-8506      | internet. I have DSL.        | 16345 
Englewood Ave
www.pwpconsult.com |                              | Los Gatos, 
CA 95032

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Re: [Elecraft] Long RS232 Runs - RS422

[WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft]

The old criteria was 50 feet, but that was set before the specification for any 
twisted pair for digital, let alone Cat 5.  In short, it it works well, it is 
OK but 200 feet sounds reasonable.  RS-232 uses a 5 volt signal level.  RS-422 
uses a higher signal level, I believe 12 volts, but that is from memory.  Watch 
out for the serial dongles that plug into USB ports.  Some are not full RS232 
and do not work except with certain connections, ham radio applications not 
included.  Be careful and if it does not work, keep trying different dongles or 
get on the internet and find the brand and source for one that will work.  If 
all else fails or if you want to be sure, buy a card based RS-232 or 488 
interface that uses all DB-9 or DB-25 connectors.   Willis 'Cookie' Cooke,VP of 
Tidelands ARS and TXPE K5EWJ & Trustee N5BPS
 

  From: Jim Brown 
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Thursday, January 21, 2016 12:44 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Long RS232 Runs - RS422
   
On Thu,1/21/2016 10:32 AM, Michael Walker wrote:
> I wanted to mention that for those that want long RS232 runs for devices
> (Steppir, Rotator, Elecraft Amp),

It helps to define "long." Distance for RS232 was originally defined in 
feet. Many years ago, it was redefined in terms of capacitance between 
conductors. Using cables as common as CAT5, lengths of 200 ft or more 
are no problem. Simply use one pair per signalling circuit.

73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] SKN.

[WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft]

For everyone's information, the Straight Key Century Club has Straight Key 
Night every day and night 24 hours per day and 7 days per week all year.  Some 
of us are Ludites Never get enough Straight Key and Bug operation.  We even 
have some that like and use side swipers.  Read about us  and our activities at 
 SKCCgroup.com and join us if you like what you see, we are free and will not 
ask for money.  If you are new to CW and would like to get better, we will QRS 
for you and welcome you!
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke,SKCC #4077S K5EWJ & Trustee N5BPS
 

  From: Gary Smith 
 To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Saturday, January 2, 2016 9:28 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] SKN.
   
Though you did get the info you asked and that SKN is over, this info 
may be moot but it's a worthy read. SKN is not a contest though it 
can be looked at that way. Here is the official website and it 
explains it well.

http://www.arrl.org/straight-key-night

On the personal side, I enjoy SKN for several reasons but one main 
reason; it allows me to experience ham radio the way it was before 
digital everything took over our operating stations. Back when people 
made more than a "contest style" 599 TU & back to CQing for their 
next fly by contact. During SKN, people send their station 
information, rig, antenna, key, their name and QTH and the RST is 
real rather than cookie cutter 599 regardless of signal.

It's refreshing to ignore the electronic log that already gives you 
their name & QTH the second you enter their call, and listen to them 
send their town, a comma and then their state. It takes me back to 
the days of my paper log where it was a challenge to remember 
someone's name when you hear their familiar call, where if you wanted 
to know where someone lived to send a QSL, you needed to the look it 
up in the US and international editions of the US Call Book. 
Sometimes DX would send their mailing address and it was a test of 
copy skills to get the unusual street names and town names correctly 
over the QRN & QSB. But when you did it that way, those QSL cards 
meant so much more. As a poor student in Nursing School, I remember 
hand drawing my first QSL cards, artfully, because I couldn't afford 
to pay someone to make them, paper was cheap and pens were plentiful. 
Those original KA1DQG cards were a joy to make and surely were 
appreciated by the recipients. SKN reminds me of those days.

It was a time of more honesty in RST and comments as to poor tone and 
others trying to help you without the eternal LID or UP being always 
sent. QRM is worse today but there always was QRM, even Maxim called 
it Rotten QRM and had his Wouf Hong at the ready to do battle. But I 
wax nostalgic; SKN is a time to experience older times when I think 
Ham Radio was more fun and personal when it comes to the QSO itself. 

You hear some on hand keys today, I suspect the speed demons bypass 
them like the tortoise and the Hare but those with the hand keys are 
still living the joy that made Ham Radio great and a contact more of 
a joy than another minimalist Q in the log. I have my Begali 
Sculpture and use it daily but sometimes I bring out the old Navy 
Key, just because of respect for the old days. 

This SKN I used my K3 at around 40 watts with my father's Navy key he 
brought back from Pearl Harbor when he was there in the 40's. Some of 
the contacts I made were using their tube gear. It's fun to ragchew 
about their old radio that they just dusted off. Truth be told, the 
most fun QSO's I've had in the last year were those SKN QSOs because 
you have to invest your effort to the copy and the conversation is 
much more active and personal, it's Ham Radio today as it was then. 
Consider it an annual Brigadoon of Ham Radio, you just don't have to 
wait 100 years to enjoy it again.

Try to fit it in if you can, next year.

73,
Gary
KA1J 


> I've seen several references to Straight Key Nite being tonight. Guys, I 
> thought SKN was Jan 1st. On the east coast, it's still Dec 31st. SKN should 
> be tomorrow nite. Right?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> ...nr4c. bill
>

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Re: [Elecraft] QLF?

[WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft]

We have a QLF contest each year at the Tidelands Amateur Radio Society in Texas 
City, Texas.In the past, we have used a door bell buzzer and a regular CW hand 
key.  It works well, but last year we had a participant complain that the 
buzzer was too loud, but one of the judges complained that he  could not hear 
well enough when the announcer activated the PA.  I think this year that we 
will allow hearing protection for the participants and let the judges set the 
volume.  Some times you can't please everyone! Willis 'Cookie' Cooke,Tidelands 
VP and Hamfest Chairman for 2016 K5EWJ & Trustee N5BPS
 

  From: Amateur Radio Operator N5GE 
 To: "Dauer, Edward"  
Cc: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
 Sent: Saturday, January 2, 2016 1:09 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] QLF?
   
When I lived in Oklahoma City, the yearly ham fest had a QLF contest.
Participants did not need to bring a key.  The club had a straight key
that was about four or five feet long and about two feet wide.  All
contestants used that key.

It was quite fun to watch ;o)

Good luck, Ted

Tom,

N5GE

On Sat, 2 Jan 2016 05:30:01 +, you wrote:

>I just learned there will be a QLF contest at Frostfest in Richmond in 
>February.  (Our son and his family live there, so the trip wouldn’t be 
>entirely fanciful.)  If I enter the contest I’ll want to train for it 
>seriously.  Having never done QLF before, I am open to advice.  First, the 
>equipment – do the contestants each bring their own “key” or is there some 
>contraption everyone has to use, to equalize the challenge?  How about a 
>KXPD3, for the low power single toe division?  What’s the duration of the 
>transmission?  What characteristics will the judges be most attentive to – 
>would a snazzy sock design give an unfair advantage?
>
>And yes, Elecraft reportedly will have a table there too.
>
>Ted, KN1CBR
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: B & W antenna

[WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft]

It is true!  It makes a good antenna that tunes easily it you want to use a QRO 
transmitter work like a QRP rig with a good antenna.  My Dad earned a Novice in 
the mid seventies at the time that my wife earned an Advanced and I earned an 
Extra.  He called me one evening to report that his club in Denver had an 
article in the newsletter for an antenna which had a good SWR on all novice 
bands and worked well.  They took a 30 foot aluminum vertical and connected a 
75 watt incandescent light bulb between it and ground.  I told him that in the 
mid fifties when I was a Novice we used the same antenna, buy omitted the pole 
and kept it in the shack, but we called it our dummy load.  It glowed brightly 
with a 75 watt novice transmitter and radiated a little so that we could talk 
to each other across town with our dummy loads.  Any dummy load will radiate a 
little unless you keep it in a Faraday Cage. Willis 'Cookie' Cooke,VP TARS for 
2016 K5EWJ & Trustee N5BPS
  From: "Joe Subich, W4TV" 
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2015 7:41 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: B & W antenna
   

> I have heard several stories about what it has for a resistor on it,
> if anyone knows for sure, I would be most interested.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/T2FD_antenna

73,

  ... Joe, W4TV




On 12/10/2015 1:20 AM, David Cole wrote:
> The BED-90 works fairly well on 75 Meters, about 2 S units down from a
> dipole, but it has a 1:1 on almost any frequency between 3 MHz., and 30
> Mhz., which is fine for me as I am using a KW for MARS work, and we are
> on clear frequencies...
>
> I have heard several stories about what it has for a resistor on it, if
> anyone knows for sure, I would be most interested.
>
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Re: [Elecraft] What crystal filter do you use the most?

[WILLIS COOKE]

I am not DW but I think I qualify as etal!.  I have been doing CW since I was a 
pup and I am older than Hector.  I started with a BC455 with no crystal filter 
and the bandwidth of the receiver was about half the novice band.  I now have a 
K3 with 500 and 200 CW filters.  I sometimes use the 200 for rare DX that is in 
the noise with lots of QRM, but most of the time I set the bandwidth to about 
500 hertz.  The 500 hertz filter suits me fine.  When I use an older rig 
without digital bandwidth and with a 500 hertz filter I am real happy.  With 
the K3 I am happy with about 500 hertz band width for rag chew contacts.  It 
does not mother me to hear three or four signals unless they are about the same 
strength and about the same tone (frequency).  My K3 has standard 2700 hertz 
SSB, standard 500 hertz CW plus an additional 200 hertz filter.  I think I 
wasted money for the 200 hertz filter that I seldom use and I can't document 
any QSO that I required the 200 hertz filter to make the contact.But I am easy 
to please and was quite happy with the BC455 and a couple of crystals in 1956.  
 Willis 'Cookie' Cooke,TDXS Contest Chairman K5EWJ & Trustee N5BPS
  From: Phil Anderson 
 To: dw  
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Monday, September 28, 2015 11:10 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] What crystal filter do you use the most?
   
Hey DW etal,

I noticed that you like to get on 40 and 30 at sunrise..I may try 
that if I can get up early enough! Have you read the article in the last 
QST about the 3 myths about propagation, notably on ionization at 
sunrise? It may be of benefit.

73, Phil, W0XI, Lawrence, KS.

> dw 
> Monday, September 28, 2015 9:57 AM
> Hello gang,
> Just ordered my first K3.
> I haven't ordered any filters or accessories yet.
> Want to wait and see what I really will need.
>
> I'd like to illicit your experience with the use of crystal filters for
> CW.
> What filter do you find you use the most and why?
> I won't be using the K3 for contestingjust casual CW-only DXing and
> occasional rag-chews.
> Of late, I've really enjoyed getting on 40m and 30m at sunrise.
>
> Many thanks in advance
> N1BBR :-]
>


---
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S Sub-Receiver: How to Hear Both Receivers?

[WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft]

You don't need to do anything special except have two speakers or a stereo 
headset.  One output goes to left speaker and the other to the right speaker.  
You can hear the difference unless you have a hearing problem.  Likewise with a 
stereo headset you hear one in the left ear and one in the right. Willis 
'Cookie' Cooke,TDXS Contest Chairman K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS
  From: Byron Peebles n...@arrl.net
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Sunday, August 9, 2015 5:52 PM
 Subject: [Elecraft] K3S Sub-Receiver: How to Hear Both Receivers?
   
Is there a way to have the signals on both the main and sub-receivers?

For example, listening to a DX operator who is running split.

I would like to hear the DX on the Main, and both Listen and Transmit on 
the Sub.

I've read and re-read a lot of pages, pressed a lot of button 
combinations, but have yet to hear any signals on the sub-receiver.  
When I A/B swap, I hear things on Main, but never on Sub.

I am new to the Elecraft style, so I might bemissing something obvious 
to others.

(100)-72, Byron

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Re: [Elecraft] West Mountain Radio CLRspkr

[WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft]

Yes! Send one receiver to one speaker and one to the other.  Check to see which 
ear hears which speaker.  Same with headsets, but you get more separation.  You 
can use it for split or for diversity. Willis 'Cookie' Cooke,TDXS Contest 
Chairman K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS
  From: Steven Bertsch sabert...@gmail.com
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Saturday, August 8, 2015 5:15 PM
 Subject: [Elecraft] West Mountain Radio CLRspkr
   
I use a West Mountain Radio CLRspkr with my K3. A friend is giving me his 
CLRspkr. Using a stereo Y-adapter, could I use both, one for the main receiver 
and one for the sub receiver? I know to set the CONFIG-SPKRS to 2.

Steve K6SAB



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Re: [Elecraft] Verticals on mountaintops

[WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft]

If you are really connected to the earth and the resistance of the earth is 
really infinite then your efficiency is zero and it has the same effect as if 
you only have a shielded wire connected to the radiator.  But this is 
impossible in real life, but is you install a counterpoise that is resonant at 
your frequency then you may radiate well.  Remember that antennas have 
directivity in both azimuth and elevation. Read the ARRL Antennna Book over and 
over until you understand it if you want a good antenna.  Your efficiency from 
your antenna connector on depends on the resistance of your counterpoise 
connection, your counterpoise and the length of your radiator.  You get full 
credit for the radiator from the feed point to the loading  coil and some 
credit for the whip length but very little for the coil itself, maybe a bit 
less than the coil length.  Antenna installations always obey Ohm's law and the 
other laws of physics whether you understand them or not.  Whether you want to 
believe or not!  Save your desire to believe for religion, they say it works! 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke,TDXS Contest Chairman K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS
  From: Al Lorona alor...@sbcglobal.net
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Monday, July 20, 2015 11:58 AM
 Subject: [Elecraft] Verticals on mountaintops
   
[I've re-named this thread. Was 'Miniature self-supporting HF Antennas'.]
When the ground is perfect, that's the best case for a vertical antenna. If the 
ground becomes worse than ideal, then the losses increase and performance is 
not as good and the pattern changes: less radiation to the horizon and higher 
takeoff angle. 
But then, if the ground continues to get worse -- let it become the worst case, 
an insulator with zero conductivity-- don't the losses go to zero again? And 
does the pattern go to more like an isotropic, or ...???  If the antenna does 
look more like it's in free space, then this would support the statement that 
there's radiation below the horizon from a vertical on a mountaintop.
Al  W6LX



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Re: [Elecraft] Verticals on mountaintops

[WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft]

If you feed your antenna as a dipole, then your counterpoise is the lower leg.  
Your radiation resistance will be low if your antenna is short.  You need 
something to raise it to about 50 ohms which will be either a coil across the 
feed point or a capacitor.  I have found that there are so few stations with 
good 80/75 meter antennas in Field Day and many sites are so noisy, either with 
man made noise or atmospheric noise that it is hardly worth the effort to erect 
an 80/75 antenna for Field Day unless you have a high transmitter count. Willis 
'Cookie' Cooke,TDXS Contest Chairman K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS
  From: Jim Brown j...@audiosystemsgroup.com
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Monday, July 20, 2015 12:14 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Verticals on mountaintops
   
Hi Al,

As it happens, W6GJB and I are building a custom 80M vertical for FD use 
on a mountaintop. As part of the design process, I've compared it to an 
inverted Vee at the height where we could rig it without trees. The 
model, of course, is for flatland, and while HFTA can tell us how 
being on that mountain affected the horizontally polarized inverted Vee, 
we have no comparable modeling for a vertically polarized antenna. So I 
asked Dean Straw, N6BV, retired ARRL Antenna Book editor and author of 
HFTA how he thought being on the mountain might affect the vertical. His 
answer was I don't have a guess.

Our vertical will be built from that modular army-surplus mast that 
comes in 4 ft sections that fit together with a 40 ft telescoping tube 
mounted to the top, with a wire taped to it. We will feed it as a 
vertical dipole, and there will be loading both at the bottom and top. 
Not at all suitable for backpacking. :)

73, Jim K9YC



On Mon,7/20/2015 9:58 AM, Al Lorona wrote:
 [I've re-named this thread. Was 'Miniature self-supporting HF Antennas'.]
 When the ground is perfect, that's the best case for a vertical antenna. If 
 the ground becomes worse than ideal, then the losses increase and performance 
 is not as good and the pattern changes: less radiation to the horizon and 
 higher takeoff angle.
 But then, if the ground continues to get worse -- let it become the worst 
 case, an insulator with zero conductivity-- don't the losses go to zero 
 again? And does the pattern go to more like an isotropic, or ...???  If the 
 antenna does look more like it's in free space, then this would support the 
 statement that there's radiation below the horizon from a vertical on a 
 mountaintop.

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Re: [Elecraft] Amphenol PL-259

[WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft]

DX Engineering Willis 'Cookie' Cooke,TDXS Contest Chairman K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS
  From: Thomas Taylor li...@comcast.net
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Saturday, March 21, 2015 8:21 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Amphenol PL-259
   
On Sat, 21 Mar 2015 17:06:07 +1000
Gary Gregory vk1zzg...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hi,
 
 Somebody recently commented on these and also right angle versions which
 are the variety i am chasing. Amphenol appear to be unavailable here in VK.
 
 Could somebody point me to a supplier please?
 
 Apologies in advance for the OT bandwidth.
 
 73
 
 Gary
 Vk1ZZ
 K3, KX3, KPA500-FT, KAT500-FT,P3.
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QuickSilver Radio Supply  http://www.qsradio.com; carries some Amphenol
products.

73  Tom  kg7cfc

-- 
You don't get to choose how you're going to die, or when. You can decide how
you're going to live now.
-Joan Baez

^^  --...  ...--  / -.-  --.  --...  -.-.  ..-.  -.-.


Tom Taylor  KG7CFC
openSUSE 13.1 (64-bit), Kernel 3.11.6-4-default,
KDE 4.11.2, AMD Phenom X4 955, GeForce GTX 550 Ti (Nvidia 337.19)
16GB RAM -- 3x1.5TB sata2 -- 128GB-SSD
FF 36.0, claws-mail 3.10.1
registered linux user 263467

-- 
You don't get to choose how you're going to die, or when. You can decide how
you're going to live now.
-Joan Baez

^^  --...  ...--  / -.-  --.  --...  -.-.  ..-.  -.-.


Tom Taylor  KG7CFC
openSUSE 13.1 (64-bit), Kernel 3.11.6-4-default,
KDE 4.11.2, AMD Phenom X4 955, GeForce GTX 550 Ti (Nvidia 337.19)
16GB RAM -- 3x1.5TB sata2 -- 128GB-SSD
FF 36.0, claws-mail 3.10.1
registered linux user 263467


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Re: [Elecraft] CW listening pitch

[WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft]

I may not have knowledge, but i have a theory.  People use different bandwidth 
filters for various reasons, some for what they have and some for hearing more 
after a CQ and other reasons.  If you are listening to a signal at 400 Hertz 
you also hear QRM that is in your bandpass.  If you are using a 200 Hertz 
filter you hear from 300 to 500 at the rating of your skirt, but you also hear 
QRM from the bottom of your actjual bandpass to the top of your actual bandpass 
depending on the actual signal strength.  If you are using a wider bandpass it 
depends on the actual bandpass and the strength of the QRM, so you hear more at 
higher frequencies than lower.  Of course how much you hear lower depends on 
the low cutoff of your audio which is presumably above zero and below about 3 
khz.  If you are an audiophyle maybe higher.  Noise frequency goes up to the 
cutoff of your ears or audio.  That is my theory and I am sticking to it!
 Willis 'Cookie' Cooke,TDXS Contest Chairman K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS
  From: Rick Tavan N6XI rta...@gmail.com
 To: Sverre Holm (LA3ZA) la...@nrrl.no 
Cc: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Monday, March 2, 2015 12:25 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] CW listening pitch
   
Yes, I've noticed this. I have no real knowledge of why low tones seem to
make for better copy in QRM but I have guessed that it has to do with the
relative difference in interfering tone for a given offset from the desired
signal. If you listen to 1000 Hz (which many ops do) and the interfering
signal is 100 Hz away, the difference is only 10%. But if you listen to 400
Hz, the difference is 25%. So the filter in your brain may be more
effective distinguishing 400 from 500 Hz than it is in distinguishing 1000
from 1100 Hz. Just a guess.

73,

/Rick N6XI

On Sun, Mar 1, 2015 at 7:33 PM, Sverre Holm (LA3ZA) la...@nrrl.no wrote:

 There is evidence that it is advantageous with a low tone for the pitch
 (asuming normal hearing). Some studies give evidence for an improvement in
 recognition rate as the pitch is lowered and it more or less seems to level
 off at 500 Hz, except for the lowest SNRs where recognition even improves
 at
 a pitch of 250 Hz.

 Some of the research is summarized here (look for paper 2):
 http://la3za.blogspot.no/2013/10/studies-on-morse-code-recognition.html






 -
 Sverre, LA3ZA

 K2 #2198, K3 #3391,
 LA3ZA Blog: http://la3za.blogspot.com,
 LA3ZA Unofficial Guide to K2 modifications:
 http://la3za.blogspot.com/p/la3za-unofficial-guide-to-elecraft-k2.html
 --
 View this message in context:
 http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/CW-listening-pitch-tp7599535p7599630.html
 Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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-- 
Rick Tavan N6XI
Truckee, CA


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Re: [Elecraft] CW listening pitch

[WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft]

Ted, the filter frequency is band width, but can be centered with tuning.  IE 
you can use the 700 filter to hear 200 to 900 with the center at 550 or 300 to 
1000 with the center at 650 as you choose and tune.  The CWT on the K3 will 
center it for you, but you will not need to do this unless you prefer.  Most of 
us like about 550 to 600, but this is a survey, not fixed so you can do what 
works best for you and probably should.  That is the center frequency we are 
talking about.  Choose the filter for easy tuning and QRM/QRN reduction. Willis 
'Cookie' Cooke,TDXS Contest Chairman K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS
  From: Ted Edwards W3TB w3tb@gmail.com
 To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2015 1:29 PM
 Subject: [Elecraft] CW listening pitch
   
I like to use the CWT function when operating CW and then the Spot button
to zero-beat.
I have been using 700 Hz as the pitch but would like to hear a lower
frequency audio tone for my own preference.

What is the mind of the Reflector on a best tone frequency and related to
whether it has any impact on the roofing filter selections?  I have the
700Hz/5-pole, the 400 Hz/8-pole, and the 200 Hz/5-pole.

And thank you all ahead of time for your answers.

-- 
73 de Ted Edwards, W3TB and GØPWW

and thinking about operating CW:
Do today what others won't,
so you can do tomorrow what others can't.
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Re: [Elecraft] CW listening pitch

[WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft]

Phil, I would try both and somewhere in between.  Best will be the frequency 
where your hearing peaks, optimum will consider other things, but you will 
still be able to hear. Adjust your volume and practice at the best frequency 
and see if you can make it optimum as well.  You may be able to change optimum, 
but probably not the best frequency. Willis 'Cookie' Cooke,TDXS Contest 
Chairman K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS
  From: Phil Wheeler w...@socal.rr.com
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2015 4:01 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] CW listening pitch
   
Re I had a hearing test, and the best frequency 
was several hundred HZ away from my optimum 
Best is not the same as optimum? That puzzles me.

Phil W7OX



On 2/28/15 1:42 PM, David Cole wrote:
 Hi,
 If you have an older hearing test, use the most recent one, and see what
 part of the audio spectrum you hear best at, within the allowed spectrum
 of the K3.  Then select that frequency.  I had a hearing test, and the
 best frequency was several hundred HZ away from my optimum, and many db
 away as well.  After changing it, I copy CW much better.

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: the cheapest way to build a six meter beacon

[WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft]

I have been looking at a beacon controller using the Arduaino micro processor 
with an external RF unit, just a 3 to 5 watt QRP CW rig and a simple ground 
plane antenna.  Have you looked at this possibility?  Looks to be about a $200 
deal to me.  I am looking to build one for here, maybe we could duplicate a 
design and cooperate to build two.
 Willis 'Cookie' Cooke,TDXS Contest Chairman K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS
  From: Johnny Siu vr2...@yahoo.com.hk
 To: Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Sunday, March 1, 2015 5:57 AM
 Subject: [Elecraft] OT: the cheapest way to build a six meter beacon
   
 Hello Elecrafters,
The VR2SIX 6m beacon has been down for some time because the gears have been 
used over 20 years and beyond repair.  Local radio club (HARTS) is finding a 
way to build up a 6m beacon again but with very limited funds.  The beacon 
requirement could be a simple 5W transmitter sending out CWID of VR2SIX.
If you are aware of any useful information, please send me the relevant web 
link or sources of information.
Thanks for your help in advance and please reply off-the-list.
73
Johnny VR2XMC



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Re: [Elecraft] CW listening pitch

[WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft]

The message does not include pitch, but it is my opinion from years of copying 
cw that the best pitch is a function of the listeners hearing.  It is worth 
some effort to determine the best pitch for your ears, as we get older we have 
dead spots which are a function of your experience, so while I like around 550 
to 600, you may like a different pitch as if you are trying to copy a frequency 
that is in your dead spot, you may have a harder time than if you move it some. 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke,TDXS Contest Chairman K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS
  From: Phil Kane k2...@kanafi.org
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2015 5:27 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] CW listening pitch
   
On 2/28/2015 2:44 PM, David and Dianne on Comcast wrote:

 BTW there really is a strong correlation between learning to play music
 and learning CW. Not a direct one.but similar

My late brother (KU2P / 4X1AK) was a clarinetist as well as a
programmer, and taught himself CW with no problems.  May he rest in peace.

73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100  s/n 5402

From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
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Re: [Elecraft] Who said anything about removing diversity? That would *never* happen...

[WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft]

I think he was talking about removing the feature that locks both VFOs together 
rather than diversity.  The writer said that he did not think it was good to 
lock both VFOs together, but I think is is required for proper diversity 
operation to have both locked.  I have not used diversity much because I do not 
have a good receive antenna for 160, but I would not want the VFO tracking 
feature to go away and I do not see how one could use diversity well without 
tracking VFOs.  I have a big fear that someday you will listen to one of these 
suggestions, but so far you have not.  Good work! Willis 'Cookie' Cooke,TDXS 
Contest Chairman K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS
  From: Wayne Burdick n...@elecraft.com
 To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Cc: elecraft...@yahoogroups.com elecraft...@yahoogroups.com 
 Sent: Monday, February 16, 2015 5:34 PM
 Subject: [Elecraft] Who said anything about removing diversity? That would 
*never* happen...
   
I don't know who started this thread, but let me say definitively that we would 
never remove Diversity mode. The K3 has one of the best diversity 
implementations in any transceiver, and many operators use it all the time. 
That is why we wanted to make it easier to use by assigning it as the 
regular-hold function of the SUB switch.

Wayne
N6KR

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Re: [Elecraft] More Legendary Elecraft Service or The Turning of the Screw

[WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft]

Not a good idea for the screws sticking out of capacitors and transformers. 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke,TDXS Contest Chairman K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS
  From: Harry Yingst via Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 To: brian als...@nc.rr.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Friday, February 6, 2015 5:36 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] More Legendary Elecraft Service or The Turning of the 
Screw
   
That's an old fix for many radios
Open them up and tighten down all the screws


      From: brian als...@nc.rr.com
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Friday, February 6, 2015 4:27 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] More Legendary Elecraft Service or The Turning of the 
Screw
  
Makes you wonder how they know such seeming impossible-to-know things.

Are there also magic potions and incantations available?

73 de Brian/K3KO


On 2/6/2015 20:55 PM, Pete Smith N4ZR wrote:
 A couple of days ago I reported a fall-off in output from my K3 on 
 some bands. I wrote about this to Howard, K6IA, at Elecraft service, 
 who wrote back and suggested that one or more of the three screws that 
 attach the LPA board to the lower cover of the radio might have loosened.

 Sure enough - one of the three was 1/2 turn short of tight. Tightened 
 it up, tested, all normal again.  Ran auto TX calibration, all 
 successful. I happy camper am.  Thanks Howard!


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 13.8 VDC power

[WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft]

I have noted that if you remove power it does not give the processor time to 
save the last frequency and other settings that it automatically saves 
(operating conditions).  I had this happen with a defective power supply and a 
few times when the power was automatically removed.  My dog likes to sleep 
under the operating desk.  Lately he has been picking on my cable modem and 
router. Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS 
Cavalla, USS Stewart
  From: Roger D Johnson n...@roadrunner.com
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2014 10:09 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 13.8 VDC power
   
It IS possible to send the K3 off to never-never land by removing the 12 volt 
input before
shutting the radio off with the power switch. I've had it happen whilst mucking 
around
behind my desk and accidentally pulling out the Anderson power-pole connector.

If you've saved the settings using the K3 utility, you can reset everything 
using the
procedure on page 63 of the K3 manual. NOTE: This did not work with my rotor
control plugged into the ACC socket! If you didn't save the parameters, you will
have to manually reset everything! SAVE!

73, Roger




On 12/23/2014 1:30 AM, Richard Fjeld wrote:

 Well, more good information.  Maybe I stand corrected.  It's been nearly 4 
 years since I have read the manual, and my memory may have read more into the 
 statements than it should have.

 I refer to page 13, right hand column, halfway down, entitled POWER.  There 
 is a note that reads To ensure correct save of operating parameters, turn 
 the 
 K3 off /before/ turning the power supply off.  When I read that, I thought 
 about the short duration power failures we experience.


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Re: [Elecraft] Getting Started With CW

[WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft]

Farnsworth uses a character speed of 15 WPM.  Koch (German for Cook) pronounced 
Cook, not kotch uses 25 WPM.  ARRL Code Practice uses Farnsworth for Code 
Practice for speeds below 15 WPM.  I find the Koch method difficult to copy, 
but Farnsworth not so bad and I use it for Bug sending.  when I need to slow 
down a bit.  The Koch method may be a good method for the Military or 
Commercial trainees to get up to 25 WPM fast, but I don't see a place for it in 
ham radio and the Military and Commercial do not use CW any more. Willis 
'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart
  From: Ken wa8...@gmail.com
 To: k6...@foothill.net 
Cc: elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Monday, December 1, 2014 6:33 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Getting Started With CW
   
Ah ah!  So THAT (Farnsworth) is the source of the horrible CW I hear (fast 
characters with excess spacing!)  

Sorry but I will disagree with that approach.  It teaches plain bad CW.    
(Okay, when I went to school they didn’t have to teach the alphabet with silly 
bellies and stuff either.  We learned to read the English language, not 
pictures and so we were able to progress beyond picture books and 
hieroglyphics.  Dumbing down elementary teaching has been a disaster and I 
think dumbing down CW is in the same category.)  

I learned CW by myself without any crutches.  Sorry but I never noticed a 10wpm 
barrier either, it took me 4 months as a novice and 328 on the air QSOs to pass 
my General ticket (13wpm in front of an FCC examiner.)  I think it is totally 
hilarious that you mention a “conspiracy by the FCC” to prevent people from 
getting a General class ticket back when most hams had General class tickets!

Ken WA8JXM


 On Dec 1, 2014, at 5:31 PM, Fred Jensen k6...@foothill.net wrote:
 
 On 12/1/2014 12:17 PM, Ken wrote:
 
 Would  you really suggest someone starting out at 5 wpm use a paddle
 and keyer?
 
 Yes.  It's called Farnsworth and there is both a good body of empirical 
 evidence as well as explainable theory that it works better than other 
 methods.  Learning Morse has a direct parallel with how kids learn to read.  
 Initially, they learn the components of the letters.  For example, D is a 
 post with a big tummy, B is a post with two small tummies.  They very 
 shortly learn to recognize letters as whole objects by their overall shape, 
 not their components.
 
 Farnsworth uses a character speed of about 20 WPM, however the characters are 
 spaced however as much as needed for a given, slower, net speed.  20 WPM is a 
 too fast for counting dits and dahs, and one learns to recognize letters by 
 their sound shape.  For me, P sounds like crossing a low round-topped 
 hill, whereas X sounds like crossing a narrow ravine.  R is more like 
 going over a speed bump.
 
 When sending to the student, you want as precise Morse at a character speed 
 of 20 WPM as you can get, so teacher uses a keyer and paddle. When student is 
 sending, you want him to make the same sound shapes he's burning into his 
 brain on receiving.  If he needs 1 WPM spacing to recognize the sound shape 
 and say or write it, that's fine, 20 WPM characters with about 10-12 second 
 spaces is about 1 WPM.

 
 There is an almost universal plateau at about 10-11 WPM for most people 
 learning Morse.  In the later 50's, a conspiracy theory alleged the FCC set 
 the General code speed at 13 WPM on purpose because of that.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 CW decoder and CQ CW contest

[WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft]

I encountered an operator named DEAN who sent it as de an and I kept copying it 
as from An. Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS 
Cavalla, USS Stewart
  From: d...@lightstream.net d...@lightstream.net
 To: j...@audiosystemsgroup.com 
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Monday, December 1, 2014 3:29 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 CW decoder and CQ CW contest
   
Sorry - I wasn't clear. Of course it makes no sense to send DE prior to
calling anyone if the only thing you're sending is your own call.

I was referring mostly to folks who are calling CQ, especially those with
a bad fist, and under poor conditions. I've heard stations with an unusual
callsign who call CQ, send their call maybe three times with NO spacing
between iterations. If you miss the start of the call, it takes a lot of
work to sort out the longstringofpossibilitiesfromthemess. By simply
sending CQ CQ CQ DE ... the DE acts as a heads-up that here is the
start of my call, which gives one a fighting chance.

Under good conditions, it's not a problem.

I'm not a contester - ever - though I like chasing DX and actually enjoy
trying to work out a strategy for pileups. And no, I never send DE under
those conditions -- or even my callsign again -- unless I know the DX
station has it wrong.

73, Dale
WA8SRA





 On Mon,12/1/2014 5:52 AM, d...@lightstream.net wrote:
 But PLEASE DO develop the habit of using the characters DE to preface
 the sending of your callsign, whether calling CQ or in exchange with
 another station.

 NO, NO, NO! (CAPS added for emphasis). When a contester (or DXpedition)
 is running (calling CQ), we EXPECT to hear YOUR callsign, and we start
 typing that call in the entry window. Lots of calls begin with D, so
 when someone sends DE, we must backspace. DON'T send his call first --
 he knows his call -- only send yours. Same problem with typing. Further,
 sending the old CW elements like DE, K, KN, and QSL during a contest are
 time-wasters equivalent to please copy on SSB. Most good contesters
 use TU or R and end a QSO by sending TU followed by their callsign.

 Another rule -- NEVER resend anything that the other station has copied
 correctly. If the other station sent your call correctly when he
 responded to you, don't send it again. Send it again ONLY if you think
 he got it wrong.

 Count me among those who HATE cut numbers other than for 5NN.

 73, Jim K9YC


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Re: [Elecraft] K1 IF Amp Mod?

[WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft]

Since you consider yourself as an RF tinkerer, it sounds like an interesting 
experiment.  Since the technology in the K1 predates my interest in Elecraft, 
probably the up to date inclusions in the Sierra were not available when the K1 
was designed 20 years  or so ago.  The K3 design is not getting long of tooth 
and the KX3 is the ultimate QRP design from Elecraft.  It does not sound like a 
design change that will make Wayne and Erik any money!
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart


On Friday, October 17, 2014 1:16 PM, r j rjinsp...@gmail.com wrote:
 


Hi.

I have noticed that the K1 and Sierra rcvrs are very similar (as 602 based
designs). The main difference is imo that the Sierra has a MC1350 IF amp
(as has the K2 btw) followed by an LM386, but the K1 seems to do all
amplification after XFIL on AF frequencies using LM386+LM380.

Could/have the K1 be(en) modified with an IF amp and IF based AGC?

Thanks.
Roy
RF Tinkerer
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Re: [Elecraft] BNCs

[WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft]

The practical answer is try to insert your coax into the bushing.  RG-59 and 
RG8X are the same size and RG-58 is smaller.  If RG-58 is sloppy in the bushing 
and RG-59 or RG8X fits then it is OK to use unless you are trying to get an 
exact match for micro-wave.  If you are a micro-wave engineer you are more 
qualified than I, but for 6 meters and below the extremely small bump will not 
be noticeable.  You are jousting windmills to avoid an impedence bump that you 
cannot see.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart


On Monday, October 13, 2014 12:42 PM, Sandy Blaize ebj...@charter.net wrote:
 


YES  The 75 ohm series are UG-260/U connectors, the 50 ohm series is 
the UG-88/U.  If they don't have this stamped into the rear barrel of 
the connector, THEY ARE Counterfeits or JUST PLAIN TRASH!

There is a lot of crap parts available at hamfests these days!  Be 
careful what you buy!!

73,
Sandy W5TVW
On 10/13/2014 11:18 AM, Michael Walker wrote:
 Thanks Jim

 I was going to ask that exact question.  For the amateur world, does it
 make a difference if a 75 ohm connector is installed on a 50 ohm feedline.

 You  made it very clear for everyone.  Thanks!

 Mike va3mw


 On Mon, Oct 13, 2014 at 12:15 PM, Jim Brown j...@audiosystemsgroup.com
 wrote:

 On Sun,10/12/2014 6:32 PM, Acbross via Elecraft wrote:

 Don't know where anyone got the idea that BNCs made for RG-8x we 75 ohm.
 I worked in the tv industry for many years and we used hundreds of BNCs
 that were made specifically for 75 ohm video. By the way, RG-59 not RG-79.

 While you are entirely correct that there are 75 ohm and 50 ohm BNCs, the
 difference DOES NOT MATTER at HF, because the connector is such a small
 fraction of a wavelength and the difference is small. 75 ohm connectors
 were important with analog video because of the smearing of very fine
 detail in a high res image, and because studios do lots of patching and
 routing.

 73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] BNC connectors for RG-8X Coax

[WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft]

I don't think you will have trouble with legal power.  I regularly run 1 KW 
through RG8X without problems.  I did have some trouble running over about 400 
watts with a Carolina Windom running RG8X but I don't know what was shorting, 
the coax or the chokes or balun.  RG8X is the same outer diameter as RG-79 so 
the RG-79 BNC will fit.  The impedance bump is so short that you will not 
notice it at 6 meters or below.  If you are trying to run microwave, you might 
have trouble buy the pin and socket are the same for the RG-58 and RG-59 
connectors. The insulation thickness is what makes RG-8X have a higher rating 
than RG-58.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart


On Thursday, October 9, 2014 8:01 AM, David Cole d...@nk7z.net wrote:
 


Hi,
Looking at the tech spec sheet I don't see a power rating?  Also
remember these are 75 ohm connectors...  Anyone know what the max power
you can pump through one of these are?-- Thanks and 73's,For equipment, and 
software setups and reviews see:www.nk7z.netfor MixW support 
see;http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/infofor Dopplergram information 
see:http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/dopplergram/infofor MM-SSTV 
see:http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MM-SSTV/infoOn Thu, 2014-10-09 at 04:59 
-0700, Dennis Griffin wrote: Sorry, here is a source for a connector similar 
to what I believe you are seeking, Phil, except that it's for LMR-200. The 
Tessco  TimesMicrowave sites also have good connector, and coax, info.  
http://www.newark.com/amphenol-connex/112597/rf-coaxial-bnc-plug-str-50-ohm/dp/99H4490?ost=99H4490
  73 de Dennis KD7CAC Scottsdale, AZ  On Oct 9, 2014, at 4:17 AM, Dennis 
Griffin eagleeyeden...@gmx.com wrote:   I have ordered several 
jumper/adapter cables made with RG174 from WiFi RF Expert. They have been good 
quality. An example is a 24 RG174 BNC Male 90° to UHF
 Female for $12.29. He can custom make most anything an OM might want. RF Parts 
is a source for various RF connectors  inline adapters.73 de Dennis 
KD7CAC  Scottsdale, AZOn Oct 9, 2014, at 3:38 AM, Joel Black 
w4...@charter.net wrote:Phil,When I need one, I have been 
using the RF Industries RFB-1101-1P. These are solder-pin / clamp connectors. I 
don't remember from where they were purchased.I don't remember what 
put me on these. I use them indoors only from my KX3 to an antenna switch and 
from the RX connector on my K3 to an antenna switch. I also have a 25' piece of 
RG-8x with a PL-259 on one end and the BNC on the other for when I go to the 
park and operate. I have not had any failures with them; your mileage may vary. 
:)73,  Joel - W4JBBOn 10/9/14, 12:18 AM, Phil Hystad 
wrote:  I am looking to use BNC (male) connectors for RG-8X cable.  I have 
found a number of crimp style
 connectors but I am wondering if there are any other kind to consider.  Are 
the crimp style the best for reasonable cost?My application does 
not need to be weather protective -- all use indoors.Thanks,   
 73, phil, K7PEH 
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[Elecraft] Digital Voice Recorder for K3

[WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft]

I have a DVR installed in my K3.  I need to record a CW signal and then either 
put it on the air for the owner to hear (Voice ow CW) or make an MP3 or other 
audio file to send over the internet.  Has anyone done this?  Is it possible?  
I can make a recording and play it back on my K3 to record it with my computer, 
but I will lose some fidelity.  Can I to this easier and better?
 

Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Antenna ideas for a cheap ham

[WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft]

The reason that the 80/40/15 combo does not work well is that the 40 resonates 
pretty well on 15 because it is 3/4 wave.  I have had a lot of difficulty with 
80/40/20 and have never had one work well.  My current fan is an Alpha-Delta 
80/40 with a 75 meter wire fanned.  It is the magic formula to use the same 
antenna for 80 CW and 75 Phone.  It also works well with a tuner on 15 and 
nicely on 40.  I have the apex at 44 feet and the fan about 20 degrees.  It 
does not work well on 20 and 10 or the WARC bands.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart


On Sunday, September 14, 2014 12:41 AM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com 
wrote:
 


I failed to mention another point with regard to fan dipoles.  Do not 
mix 3rd harmonic radiators on the same coax.  In other words, stay away 
from combinations of 40 meters and 15 meters, and also 40 meters and 30 
meters.  They may work, but tuning problems are 'iffy'.

73,
Don W3FPR


On 9/14/2014 1:08 AM, Jim Brown wrote:
 On Sat,9/13/2014 5:01 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
 One other comment regarding fan dipoles.
 They really work well, but if one attempts to put more than 3 bands 
 on a fan dipole, the interaction can become frustrating to tune them 
 all, been there, done that, and have all the scars. 

 Strongly agree. Also, fans work best on harmonically related bands. 
 80/40 works very well, so does 20/15/10. 40/30/20 not so good.

 I use separations of about 9 inches for 20/15/10, and about 15 inches 
 for 80/40.


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Re: [Elecraft] Verticals

[WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft]

Mike, I think you will find that the vertical is a better antenna for stations 
more than 2,000 miles from your QTH, differing results for stations between 
1,000 and 2,000 miles and poorer for stations nearer than 1,000 miles.  An NVIS 
attic antenna or a stealth low dipole may be a beneficial addition for nearby 
stations if you can hide it from your neighbors.  Verticals work better where 
the ground is conductive in the far field because it helps the take off 
antenna.  By the far field, I mean beyond the practical distance for radials.  
South Texas and Florida are usually good.  Desert areas such as West Texas and 
Arizona not so good.  Wet areas are good, dry areas are bad, conductive 
deposits in the earth are good, but no doubt you will probably not want to move 
to get better vertical conditions.  
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart


On Friday, September 12, 2014 11:36 AM, mbyr...@tampabay.rr.com 
mbyr...@tampabay.rr.com wrote:
 


Good Day,

I am currently using a modified Cushcraft R8 with my Elecraft K1. I had never 
considered a vertical before the R8 and this was a compromise with my 
neighbors. Originally I had a dipole but that was only for 40 meters. I bought 
the R8 with the idea of multiple bands without a tuner. Because of restrictions 
here, I was only allowed one antenna. I did a series of comparisons between the 
dipole and vertical. The dipole was much quieter with the vertical being quite 
noisy. With the noise on the vertical also came a lot of DX I couldn't hear on 
the dipole. This was not a very scientific comparison but it satisfied me. The 
dipole came down and the vertical went up on the roof.

With the R8 I have worked other QRP stations with similar antennas on every 
continent. This only shows if conditions allow, you can work into anywhere. 

I do agree about the vertical being a compromise as a single element. It will 
do a great job laying down a signal at low angles which sometimes gives you an 
advantage. This all depends on your installation and ground losses. I would 
still prefer to have a phased array of verticals than have a beam on a tower. 
This is opposite of my opinion twenty years ago. 

Mike, AC4UR
http://sunbyrdpress.blogspot.com
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Re: [Elecraft] A Good Antenna Length?

[WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft]

Off center fed dipoles, Windoms and end fed half waves are primarily low power 
if not QRP antennas where you can do poorly with any antenna.  They are prone 
to arcing, heating and RF where you don't want it.  You are better off with 
conventional low radiation resistance antennas if you plan to use 100 watts or 
higher.  The search for an antenna that will make QRP sound like a kilowatt is 
futile.  The only way to do that is to have excellent conditions and infinite 
patience which will make anything sort of work.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart


On Saturday, July 5, 2014 11:55 AM, Dave d...@g0dja.co.uk wrote:
 


I tried a 40M OCFD for a while. I gave up on it and went back to a centre 
fed dipole instead.

Even on 40M it didn't seem very good and I was plagued with RF getting into 
PCs and them shutting down or periferals stopping working.  Plus, despite 
the hype, it didn't really seem to work well on other bands.  The Antenna 
analyser was very dismissive, showing resonances outside of the Amateur 
bands and, on some that it was supposed to work on, no sign of any resonance 
at all.

Dave (G0DJA)

- Original Message - 
From: Jim Brown j...@audiosystemsgroup.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2014 2:24 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] A Good Antenna Length?


 On 7/5/2014 2:05 AM, David Cutter wrote:
 You might consider an off-centre-fed dipole with appropriate balun and 
 choke.

 Not if you're going to run power. An off center fed antenna generates high 
 common mode voltage, which will fry even the best choke when running 
 power. I wouldn't consider such an antenna at greater than 100W.

 73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] A Good Antenna Length?

[WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft]

 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart


On , WILLIS COOKE wrco...@yahoo.com wrote:
 


Off center fed dipoles, Windoms and end fed half waves are primarily low power 
if not QRP antennas where you can do poorly with any antenna.  They are prone 
to arcing, heating and RF where you don't want it.  You are better off with 
conventional low radiation resistance antennas if you plan to use 100 watts or 
higher.  The search for an antenna that will make QRP sound like a kilowatt is 
futile.  The only way to do that is to have excellent conditions and infinite 
patience which will make anything sort of work.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart


On Saturday, July 5, 2014 11:55 AM, Dave d...@g0dja.co.uk wrote:
 


I tried a 40M OCFD for a while. I gave up on it and went back to a centre 
fed dipole instead.

Even on 40M it didn't seem very good and I was plagued with RF getting into 
PCs and them shutting down or
 periferals stopping working.  Plus, despite 
the hype, it didn't really seem to work well on other bands.  The Antenna 
analyser was very dismissive, showing resonances outside of the Amateur 
bands and, on some that it was supposed to work on, no sign of any resonance 
at all.

Dave (G0DJA)

- Original Message - 
From: Jim Brown j...@audiosystemsgroup.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2014 2:24 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] A Good Antenna Length?


 On 7/5/2014 2:05 AM, David Cutter wrote:
 You might consider an off-centre-fed dipole with appropriate balun and 
 choke.

 Not if you're going to run power. An off center fed antenna generates
 high 
 common mode voltage, which will fry even the best choke when running 
 power. I wouldn't consider such an antenna at greater than 100W.

 73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] Ouch

[WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft]

I did a similar thing with my TS-850.  It smoked a lot of relays in the antenna 
tuner.  I had them replaced, but have not powered it up since It was returned.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart


On Sunday, June 29, 2014 10:24 PM, Mike Lewis mlewi...@gmail.com wrote:
 


So about 20 minutes prior to starting another successful Field Day with my
trusty K3 I powered it up for the first time after connecting everything had
just started some tests when my buddy starting yelling that I was letting
some of the magic smoke out of the radio. Sure enough, there was smoke
coming out of the back of the radio. I dived over and pulled the power. To
make a long story short, I was running an S9 31' vertical antenna base tuned
with an SG-231 autotuner, with the auto tuner powered over the coax using DC
blocks. The exact same config as I ran with last year with wonderful
results. Unfortunately this year in my excitement I carelessly installed the
DC block at the radio end BACKWARDS, sending the 13.8v from my 30 switched
supply right into the antenna jack. After the incident I powered back up
with my finger on the off switch to try to assess the level of damage. The
radio puts out some power, but the SWR is infinite even into a dummy load. I
am not sure of the status of the receiver input chain as I didn't want to
put it back onto a real antenna.



So I am just wondering before I open it up what kind of damage I might find
and what kind of options I might have for repair. Has anyone heard of this
sort of a bonehead mistake? Any ideas on what I might have fried? Given this
is a mechanical assembly only kit is there any chance any of the parts are
going to be user serviceable? I love the radio and I'm hoping it is at least
salvageable.



Thanks for any insights,

Mike/KE0MF

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Re: [Elecraft] WTB: KBPF3 Gen Cov Module

[WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft]

Aluminum/Copper Alloys do not last long in the presence of Sodium Chloride 
which is present in most soil and plentiful in most water, particularly runoff 
and sea water.  The alloy use for fence wire should be usable for radials, but 
will not last as long as copper.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart


On Sunday, June 29, 2014 6:34 PM, David Christ radio...@mchsi.com wrote:
 


I have been told that aluminum does not last very long in contact with the 
ground.  You might wish to verify whether burying aluminum is a good idea.

David K0LUM


On Jun 29, 2014, at 5:59 AM, Mike VE3YF m...@ve3yf.com wrote:

 Tnx to all who responded.
 
 The module has been found. Tnx.
 
 
 73 De Mike
 VE3YF
 
 http://www.ve3yf.com
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Re: [Elecraft] Do we need 2 groups?

[WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft]

Why not have someone clone this group for the sore heads who's delete key is 
broken.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart


On Friday, June 27, 2014 8:49 AM, Michael Walker va...@portcredit.net wrote:
 


It is clear that the members of this group are amazingly social and love
their product.

However, I am concerned that the off topic (but valid) dialogues get away
from the actual charter of the original group and the the fact that
Elecraft staff are part of this group.

Why not have someone clone this group for those off topic conversations and
then everyone is happy and we aren't clouding the technical conversations
that are directly related to the product.

Mike va3mw
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Re: [Elecraft] Do we need 2 groups?

[WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft]

The actual charter as I understand it is to discuss matters related to Amateur 
Radio in a rational manner.  It is sponsored by Elecraft, so things related to 
Elecraft are emphasized.  I do not recall any clause limiting the topics to 
those which all Amateurs agree (is there any such?)  Certainly there have been 
some topics that are more controversial than average discussed on this forum 
with a sharp divide of opinions, but since Elecraft products can be used or 
discarded by the actions of ARRL and FCC, I would say the controversy is 
exactly on target.  I would rather that only my views be elaborated and I am 
sure that others have the same wish, but it is not going to happen.  How else 
other than discussion can we reach any reasonable solution?  
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart


On Friday, June 27, 2014 12:11 PM, Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT 
k...@coldrockshotbrooms.com wrote:
 


In other words, divide up the group so that we all have to subscribe to 
several lists instead of just one?

Each of those groups will of course tend to wander off topic, and likely 
into topics that belong on the other group(s).

We'd also see crossposts, like tp the Yahoo
 KX3 list and this one.

I've been around reflectors for about 25 years, and this is what they 
do.  Trying to tame them by making more groups will fail.

Best we all just learn to self-moderate a little better.  Myself included.

There is a wonderful piece of software called POPfile, that is pretty 
amazing in its' ability to sort mail.  I haven't tried it on this list, 
but I'm quite tempted.  I  think it'd solve the problem for those who 
can't just skim and delete.

73 -- Lynn

On 6/27/2014 6:47 AM, Michael Walker wrote:
 It is clear that the members of this group are amazingly social and love
 their product.

 However, I am
 concerned that the off topic (but valid) dialogues get away
 from the actual charter of the original group and the the fact that
 Elecraft staff are part of this group.

 Why not have someone clone this group for those off topic conversations and
 then everyone is happy and we aren't clouding the technical conversations
 that are directly related to the product.

 Mike va3mw
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Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees

[WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft]

This is an interesting discussion about antennas for forest regions where you 
have very tall trees.  I have a lot of trees, but getting an antenna to 45 or 
50 feet would involve very small branches.  I have mostly Chinese Tallow Trees 
with some Ash and Beech, so stringing a wire from trees is marginal for me.  I 
do have a 65 foot tower and conductive soil, so the trombone elements from 
SteppIR work well for me.  You will be surprised how directive a rotatable 
dipole at 65 feet can be for 30 and 40 with 6 to 10 dB nulls at the ends and 
not much loss over a full dipole.  A 60 foot wire vertical from a ground stake 
to the top guy is a good 80 meter antenna and if you add an 80 meter trap and a 
drooping extension it pretty good for 160.  I have lived near a neighbor with 
100 foot pine trees and I have seen them leaning nearly 45 degrees in 100 mile 
an hour winds during Hurricane Alicia.  I think a wire antenna would break.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart


On Thursday, June 26, 2014 12:57 AM, Jim Brown j...@audiosystemsgroup.com 
wrote:
 


On 6/25/2014 5:43 PM, Dauer, Edward wrote:
 So, I've been selecting two of the tallest
 candidates a couple of hundred feet apart and stringing a stout nylon rope
 between them.  In the middle of the cord I attach the balun for the Vees,
 thereby allowing the legs to be in the clear, moveable from side to side,
 and tied to smaller (8') trees at their distal ends.  In one variation on
 the theme I had a 40 meter dipole as the center section of the supporting
 rope, tied to the same balun as an 80 meter vee.  In another I tried a
 linear-loaded 80-meter Vee, about 45' on a leg; it loaded fine but didn't
 perform as well as the full length version.

If you can suspend a flat antenna between two tall trees, why would you 
want an inverted vee, which is a less effective radiator?

Your two trees 200 ft apart could support a full size 80/40 fan and a 
20/15/10 fan, in line with each other. A high 80/40 fan is a VERY good 
antenna, and is easy to build.

My technique has evolved to starting with #8 bare copper from the big 
box store, stretch it VERY slowly between a tree and a trailer hitch 
until it breaks. Do this carefully where there's no one around to get 
hurt. Now you have #10 hard drawn copper, which is pretty strong, and 
pre-stretched. Use that for the longest dipole in each fan. Use #12 or 
#14 THHN (house wire) for the other elements. I make spacers by cutting 
1/2-in PVC conduit into lengths of about 16 in for 3-wire fans, and 
about 12 inches for 2-wire fans. 5-6 ft between spacers is a good rule 
of thumb. Hold the spacers in place by soldering short lengths of copper 
around the spacer to the bare copper of the long element.

The higher your antenna is, the more robust your center insulator should 
be. A high 80/40 dipole (80 ft or more) will be closer to 75 ohms than 
50 ohms. A 20/15/10 fan will be close to 50 ohms. Use RG8 or RG11 
depending on the Z at resonance. Don't waste a dB or two with small 
coax. My 110 ft 80/40 fans are fed with Belden 8213.

For weights, I fill 6 gallon water jugs with dry sand, and tie one to 
one end of each span. The other end can be fixed. I have pulleys high my 
trees. If you don't have a pulley and weight, your antenna WILL end up 
on the ground, and it won't take a big storm for that to happen.

My HF antennas are all at the 110-120 ft level in a dense redwood forest 
that towers 50-75 ft above them. They work. My seat of the pants 
observation is that attenuation increases with frequency, and is 
greatest with vertical polarization. 432 MHz is a waste of time, 2M sort 
of works, and 6M works pretty well.

For an analysis of the value of height, study this. It supports the 
statement earlier in this thread that a high dipole beats a low tri-bander.

http://k9yc.com/VertOrHorizontal-Slides.pdf

When Fred observes that the ends of antennas are hotter, he means that 
this is voltage maxima and a current minima, so good insulation is 
needed to whatever the antenna is attached. I once melted heavy dacron 
rope that was tied directly to the end of said dipole (well, twice, 
actually). The extra ingredient was that it was wet. Duh.

73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] Adding an SPE amplifier

[WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft]

The SPE Expert Amp needs a separate connector to the port.  It does not do CAT 
control, but rather connects to a separate program to duplicate the control 
functions on the front of the amp.  For CAT control it connects to the DB-15 
Acc connector.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart


On Thursday, June 26, 2014 9:03 PM, Bill Turner dez...@outlook.com wrote:
 


I have a K3 and a P3 which are 'daisy-chained' to the computer in the 
normal manner. I am thinking of getting an SPE amplifier and am 
wondering how to connect its RS-232 port into the mix. Is there some 
kind of splitter or router that will add it in? Or some other method?

Thanks in advance.

73, Bill W6WRT
dez...@outlook.com
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Re: [Elecraft] temperature sensors and convert -- totally off topic

[WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft]

In High School, 1953 to 1958, I was introduced to the Metric System in 
Chemistry and Physics.  I thought WOW, what a system, I can soon forget the 
obsolete feet, inches, Fahrenheit stuff and use a system that makes sense.  In 
college in Engineering School I used mostly the Metric system which confirmed 
that we could soon forget the English System of Measurements.  In 1978 when I 
worked in Scotland, I found that even the English did not use the English 
system and were converting to Metric.  I checked and only the United States, 
Burma and Liberia still used the English system.  I worked nearly 50 years 
using the English System that even the English found too difficult.  Now, I 
am retired and we are still trying to hold on to the obsolete system of 
measurements.  Even QST gave up on it 40 years ago!  Enough!  It is time for 
the USA to quit fighting the rest of the world and switch to Metric
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart


On Sunday, June 22, 2014 2:15 PM, Richard - HB9ANM hb9...@bluewin.ch wrote:
 


Now this is really way off topic. Yes, any rig requires a learning 
curve... But math? And furlongs?
This has very little to do with Elecraft!
Just wait until Eric gets back home after the weekend, I can hear him 
saying::
Folks, it's time to end this thread...73Richard - 
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Re: [Elecraft] temperature sensors and convert -- totally off topic

[WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft]

My remarks, while true were mostly tongue in cheek because someone wanted 
Elecraft to use measurements in Fahrenheit instead of Celsius.  Electronics is 
the one area in the US where metric is usually used.  Hams of all people need 
to have their knower bilingual since we converse with the world and most of 
the world uses metric.  In 1978 I lived in Scotland for a while on a job and 
they were reluctantly for some converting to 100 pence to the pound sterling, 
litres for liquid sales such as gasoline and milk and weights were in grams or 
kilos.  People would tell you their weight in stones, but I expect their 
doctors kept their weight in kilos.  A big problem with conversion, 
particularly in my industry which was oil and gas is engineers who do not want 
to change.  The thing that amuses me is that I have been wanting to go metric 
since I was 15 or 16 and I am now 73 and we have not made it yet.  I think it 
is about time to give up.  But I still
 need two sets of tools to work on my car.  At least screwdrivers, pliers and 
Cresent wrenches are not metric and English.  At least Whitworth is out 
except for British antiques.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart


On Sunday, June 22, 2014 6:01 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:
 


Well, that may be more possible than many years ago when a switch to 
metric was proposed.
At that time, the machine tool industry was well invested in the English 
system for such things as screw threads and such.
Now that the automotive industry uses mostly metric hardware, the switch 
may be easier than it was 'back then'.I think the main stumbling block right 
now is a 'consumer attitude' in the US that thinks in the English system.I can 
go to the hardware store and buy Metric fasteners, no problem, so in terms of 
hardware availability, no problem exists - I think the major problem is in the 
minds of the US consumers who are well indoctrinated into the English system of 
weights and measures.Even at that, it is not entirely English - my weight is in 
Pounds, but in England, it would be in Stones, while the rest of the world 
would measure weight in Kilograms.So much for standardization.73,Don W3FPR



















On 6/22/2014 6:43 PM, WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft wrote:
 In High School, 1953 to 1958, I was introduced to the Metric System in 
 Chemistry and Physics.  I thought WOW, what a system, I can soon forget the 
 obsolete feet, inches, Fahrenheit stuff and use a system that makes sense.  
 In college in Engineering School I used mostly the Metric system which 
 confirmed that we could soon forget the English System of Measurements.  In 
 1978 when I worked in Scotland, I found that even the English did not use the 
 English system and were converting to Metric.  I checked and only the 
 United States, Burma and Liberia still used the English system.  I worked 
 nearly 50 years using the English System that even the English found too 
 difficult.  Now, I am retired and we are still trying to hold on to the 
 obsolete system of measurements.  Even QST gave up on it 40 years ago!  
 Enough!  It is time for the USA to quit fighting the rest of the world and 
 switch to Metric
  
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 case

[WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft]

Sounds like the case I bought from Home Depot at about the same price.  I am 
happy with it and agree with Richard's comments.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart


On Tuesday, June 10, 2014 6:49 PM, Richard radio...@wideopenwest.com wrote:
 


Dick,
  I use a case from Harbor Freight: Item #69315
They are about 20-$25 depending on whether you have a 20 or 25% coupon or not.
Comes with adjustable dividers and removable inside lid storage.
I use a foam sheet between the lid and radio.
It fits my K3 nicely, leaves room for the mike and power cable.
I use the cases for other radio stuff, organized by default.

              Rich KC8HMJ
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Re: [Elecraft] Hard Case for K3

[WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft]

A lot of people have used various Pelican Cases which apparently give good 
protection at a moderate price.  I elected to buy an aluminum case from Home 
Depot which they have for about $20.  This case has ample room and is adequate 
for Field Day and such, but airline travelers might prefer the better 
protection of the Pelican.  One wife of one of the members makes some cloth 
covers and dust covers which a lot of K3 owners like and I think they can be 
customized to your liking, but probably are not the best for rough handling.  
Some may prefer to double protect with the cloth cover and an outer Pelican 
Case for more severe handling problems.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart


On Monday, June 9, 2014 1:35 PM, Dick k8...@centurylink.net wrote:
 


Does anyone have a good source for a case that will hold a K3.  Would like to 
have a hard case to use when transporting a K3 to FI and other portable 
locations.

Thanks,

Dick, K8ZTT

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone
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Re: [Elecraft] O.T. Learning Morse Code

[WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft]

One can probably find an electric typewriter, but that is not a Mill.  A Mill 
is a manual typewriter that has no shift.  It is not good for typing and all 
the ones that I have seen were manufactured in the forties.  Mills are not very 
useful for anything except copying code.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart


On Saturday, May 31, 2014 11:02 PM, Walter Underwood wun...@wunderwood.org 
wrote:
 


Should be able to find a typewriter in fine working condition here:

http://www.losaltosbusinessmachines.com/

My all time favorite typewriter is an IBM Correcting Selectric II. An APL 
golfball would be icing on the cake.

wunder
K6WRU

On May 31, 2014, at 8:26 PM, WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net wrote:

 I had to learn to copy at least three times.  First, I memorized the code 
 from the Boy Scout Handbook with dots and dashes.  That was good for about 5 
 wpm.  Then I learned to copy with block printing and that worked well to 
 almost 20, but I could not get there.  I had to learn to copy with cursive to 
 get the extra back when you had to get a minute perfect copy for the 
 examiner.  I am still working on head copy but for some reason I have to hold 
 a pencil and make marks that even I can't read most of the words to copy.  
 Finding a mill that works well is a challenge these days.  The ships that I 
 have worked on have several mills sitting around frozen up, but none that 
 work well.  I don't think there are any typewriter repairmen left around to 
 rework a mill.
  
 Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
 K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart
 
 
 On Saturday, May 31, 2014 7:25 PM, Fred Jensen k6...@foothill.net wrote:
 
 
 
 You are right Chuck, this is true, many will verify it.  If I'm writing 
 it down, the translation path is hear soundknow letter/number [or 
 maybe word]recall shape of written character[s]write character[s]. 
   With a mill, it's hear soundsmove fingers.
 
 I think it's that recall ... step that breaks the continuous copying 
 process, it requires thinking, and if you learned on a mill, or have 
 used a mill a lot, you're not used to doing any thinking.  When I was at 
 the coastal marine station so many years ago, my mind would wander while 
 in traffic with a ship ... OK, I was 16, 16-yr old minds wander a lot. 
 :-)  But, it's just evidence that I wasn't thinking about what I was copying
 
 Copying on a mill, and to a large extent on a keyboard, I have no idea 
 what I copied when I'm done, without reading it, it's muscle-memory and 
 it did not go through my alleged brain.  I'm not a musician, but my 
 brother is [however, he makes his living writing software :-)] and he 
 tells me playing the piano is basically muscle memory ... see 
 notesmove fingers.
 
 It goes a bit beyond that however, there is a distinct difference 
 between a mill and a computer keyboard for most.  I can type faster 
 [from hard copy text] on a desktop keyboard than I can on a mill. 
 However, I can copy Morse [groups or text] faster on a mill than than 
 that same keyboard.  On a mill, I'm good for 30-35 WPM.  On a standard 
 sized desktop keyboard, 30 is tops and will have typos.  On a laptop or 
 other smaller keyboard, I sort of top out at 20-25 ... or less depending 
 on the keyboard.
 
 I really don't *know* why, but I suspect that the longer key travel 
 forces a rhythm that syncs with the Morse.  The worst of all keyboards 
 to touch type on are the flat-panel ones with no key travel.
 
 Just in case there are any out there looking for a CW Elmer, the CWOps 
 group runs an international CW Academy.  They use a well proved 
 methodology, a free video-conferencing program with competent 
 instructors, flexible schedules, and there's lots of on-air support from 
 the members on the 3 CWT's each Wednesday.  cwops.org  There is usually 
 a waiting list but it goes fast.
 
 73,
 
 Fred K6DGW
 - Northern California Contest Club
 - CU in the 2014 Cal QSO Party 4-5 Oct 2014
 - www.cqp.org
 
 
 On 5/31/2014 4:08 PM, Chuck Smallhouse wrote:
 
 I was tasked teaching much older(17) and lower ranked Radiomen, Morse
 code, via using a typewriter for copying.  It was a learning experience
 for me, as I found this method much easier to learn, than by writing
 down the words and messages by hand.  It seemed as if the code
 characters went directly from the ears to the typing fingers, totally
 bypassing any pondering in the brain.
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna choices

[WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft]

The problem with tuning a rotary beam to some other frequency with an antenna 
matching device is that the directional antenna becomes a rotatable dipole with 
the parasitic elements still acting at their physical length.  Can you make 
contacts?  You bet, I made a bunch of contacts on the WARC bands with a 
Cushcraft A4 with a rotary dipole kit on 40.  A rotating dipole has 
directivity, just no front to back ratio and does not have the multi-element 
directivity typical of a three element beam.  No the SteppIR is a three element 
beam on 20, 17, 15, 12 and 10 and will have a nice front to back ratio.  On 30 
and 40 if you have the trombone element it will have a front to side ratio of 
about 2 or 3 S units if it is 60 feet high.  You will notice the gain on 17, 
and 12 that gives you a bit more punch than the competition.  The down side is 
that you have more stuff to buy and more stuff to break.  Nothing if free!  
But, I like my 3 element SteppIR with
 the 30/40 dipole kit.  I now have 322 current countries and 1800 band 
countries.  I don't think I could have done that with my A-4 and 40 meter 
dipole, but I would have a couple grand to spend.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart


On Saturday, May 31, 2014 8:29 PM, Robert G Strickland rc...@verizon.net 
wrote:
 


Joshua...

I am using a Bencher SkyHawk at 60 feet. For whatever reasons of design, 
it does work well on 30, 17 and 12 meters using the Elecraft KAT500. On 
those bands I have worked 123, 176 and 115 DX entities, respectively. No 
doubt it's not as good on those bands as the three HF bands for which it 
is designed. The tuneable Stepp antennas may do even better.

...robert

On 5/26/2014 00:31, Joshua Gould wrote:
 Ok, I know that this is a topic much like the Ford vs. Chevy debates or the
 Android vs. Apple debates, but I do have a few questions...

 I am going to be acquiring a 56 foot Rohn BX tower.  I already have a G5RV
 that I am planning on putting up (still not sure where I'm going to attach
 the other end of it to, One end will go on the tower.) I'm going to put up
 a 2m/440 vertical at some point up near the top of the tower.  I keep
 throwing around an HF vertical or a beam.  The verticals seem to cover more
 bands, but the beams are directional.  (Would also need a rotor,..

 Can a multi band yagi be tuned to a different band, or will it only work on
 the bands that it's designed for?

 I'm thinking long term and I'll probably be adding a K3/100 with a KPA500
 to the mix in the next year or so...  Trying to figure out what will give
 me the best bang for my buck, so to speak.

 73,
 Joshua Gould
 K8WXA
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-- 
Robert G Strickland, PhD ABPH - KE2WY
rc...@verizon.net.usa
Syracuse, New York, USA
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Re: [Elecraft] O.T. Learning Morse Code

[WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft]

I had to learn to copy at least three times.  First, I memorized the code from 
the Boy Scout Handbook with dots and dashes.  That was good for about 5 wpm.  
Then I learned to copy with block printing and that worked well to almost 20, 
but I could not get there.  I had to learn to copy with cursive to get the 
extra back when you had to get a minute perfect copy for the examiner.  I am 
still working on head copy but for some reason I have to hold a pencil and make 
marks that even I can't read most of the words to copy.  Finding a mill that 
works well is a challenge these days.  The ships that I have worked on have 
several mills sitting around frozen up, but none that work well.  I don't think 
there are any typewriter repairmen left around to rework a mill.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart


On Saturday, May 31, 2014 7:25 PM, Fred Jensen k6...@foothill.net wrote:
 


You are right Chuck, this is true, many will verify it.  If I'm writing 
it down, the translation path is hear soundknow letter/number [or 
maybe word]recall shape of written character[s]write character[s]. 
  With a mill, it's hear soundsmove fingers.

I think it's that recall ... step that breaks the continuous copying 
process, it requires thinking, and if you learned on a mill, or have 
used a mill a lot, you're not used to doing any thinking.  When I was at 
the coastal marine station so many years ago, my mind would wander while 
in traffic with a ship ... OK, I was 16, 16-yr old minds wander a lot. 
:-)  But, it's just evidence that I wasn't thinking about what I was copying

Copying on a mill, and to a large extent on a keyboard, I have no idea 
what I copied when I'm done, without reading it, it's muscle-memory and 
it did not go through my alleged brain.  I'm not a musician, but my 
brother is [however, he makes his living writing software :-)] and he 
tells me playing the piano is basically muscle memory ... see 
notesmove fingers.

It goes a bit beyond that however, there is a distinct difference 
between a mill and a computer keyboard for most.  I can type faster 
[from hard copy text] on a desktop keyboard than I can on a mill. 
However, I can copy Morse [groups or text] faster on a mill than than 
that same keyboard.  On a mill, I'm good for 30-35 WPM.  On a standard 
sized desktop keyboard, 30 is tops and will have typos.  On a laptop or 
other smaller keyboard, I sort of top out at 20-25 ... or less depending 
on the keyboard.

I really don't *know* why, but I suspect that the longer key travel 
forces a rhythm that syncs with the Morse.  The worst of all keyboards 
to touch type on are the flat-panel ones with no key travel.

Just in case there are any out there looking for a CW Elmer, the CWOps 
group runs an international CW Academy.  They use a well proved 
methodology, a free video-conferencing program with competent 
instructors, flexible schedules, and there's lots of on-air support from 
the members on the 3 CWT's each Wednesday.  cwops.org  There is usually 
a waiting list but it goes fast.

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2014 Cal QSO Party 4-5 Oct 2014
- www.cqp.org


On 5/31/2014 4:08 PM, Chuck Smallhouse wrote:

 I was tasked teaching much older(17) and lower ranked Radiomen, Morse
 code, via using a typewriter for copying.  It was a learning experience
 for me, as I found this method much easier to learn, than by writing
 down the words and messages by hand.  It seemed as if the code
 characters went directly from the ears to the typing fingers, totally
 bypassing any pondering in the brain.


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Re: [Elecraft] Learning Morse Code is Like Learning to Dance

[WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft]

Slava and others learning Morse ot trying to get better.  Listen to all the 
advice you get, most of it is right on the money!  But, when itch comes to 
scratch, scratch where it itches, which means that if the best advice you have 
is to do something that you don't want to do, do something else that you do 
want to do.  The absolute worst thing you can do is to force yourself to do 
something you find odious. Anything you do with Morse is better than doing 
nothing.  Keep it fun and if you don't want to do a particular thing, do 
something else.  We have been practicing code for a long time and it does not 
work well.  Sending and receiving information by Morse Code can be fun, should 
be fun and if you are having fun, you are learning and getting better. 
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart


On Friday, May 30, 2014 12:49 PM, Slava Baytalskiy sla...@nullserv.com wrote:
 


That's interesting...
I'm currently in the process of learning CW and this is the first time I heard 
of learn to send first approach. 
As I'm getting close to finishing the alphabet and can copy short 3/4/5-letter 
words - I'm starting to wonder how am I going to learn to send. 
Perhaps I should incorporate a sending session in my daily CW routine?

Slava Baytalskiy
sla...@nullserv.com
W2RMS

On May 30, 2014, at 12:30 PM, Dick, K2ZR k...@arrl.net wrote:

 Hi All,
 
 I've taught many hams CW over the years  my mantra is to first properly
 learn to send each character: There is a definite rhythm to each. Find a
 good Elmer with a quality fist to work with you. 
 
 
 
 IMHO, learn to send 1st; know how it feels as the rhythm of of each
 character travels from your hand, up your arm  into your brain. CW is a
 great dance once you've got it. Conversational CW at 25 WPM is fun,
 achievable and rewarding if you put your mind to it.  Get on the dance
 floor get on-the-air and call CQ!
 
 
 
 CWops Academy: An excellent tool for learning CW is to participate online
 with the CWops Academy. Check out the link:
 http://www.cwops.org/cwacademy.html
 
 
 
 73,
 
 Dick, K2ZR
 
 Niagara Frontier Radiosport
 
 FOC 
 
 CWops
 
 Pounding Brass Since 1962
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of W0MU
 Mike Fatchett
 Sent: Friday, May 30, 2014 11:32 AM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Learning morse code
 
 
 
 It takes time.  Proportionally more time to learn the code than it takes to
 become proficient.
 
 
 
 I can still remember sitting at the radio club meeting at our JR High
 school.  Listening to the gibberish and then finally getting a whole word!
 From there on it was pretty simple.  I am decent, certainly not
 conversational at CW.
 
 
 
 We had a Ham Radio club during our lunch hour at school because one of the
 teachers was a ham.  One day he had one of the guys send some code.  
 
 When it was over he took my sheet and graded it and said congratulations you
 just passed the 5 wpm code test. Smart guy.  Knowing that some many people
 tense up for tests, he did it under relaxed conditions.  One of my friends
 passed that day too.  We both easily passed the theory and we got sequential
 calls.
 
 
 
 It is funny how cw seems to have far more activity now then when it was
 forced.
 
 
 
 
 
 Mike W0MU
 
 
 
 On 5/27/2014 12:22 PM, David Higdon wrote:
 
 Lee, Another option is CW Academy with the CW Ops club.  They offer
 mentors along with on air practice.  Also, there is the K3UK sked page where
 you can set up a sked and also  do a computer chat. That is sometimes
 helpful when you want to ask questions during on air practice.
 
 
 Good luck.
 
 
 Dave Higdon Jr
 
 KD4ICT
 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Setting up reflector topics

[WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft]

Bill, I don't know of any such utility on the reflector.  You need to use an 
email program that furnishes that utility if you want it.  I would not 
recommend it because threads seem to morph into all sorts of topics and you 
will miss a lot of content if you pre-sort.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart


On Thursday, May 29, 2014 3:37 PM, Bill Wiehe via Elecraft 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net wrote:
 


How do you set up topics you want to receive messages on? 
When I go to try and set upWhich topic categories would you like to subscribe 
to?  I see nothing that lets me select the topics. 
Please advise.
Thanks,
Bill - W0BBI 
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Re: [Elecraft] Interfacing TS480 to KPA500

[WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft]

I have found while trying to interface the TS-480SAT with my computer and my 
SPE Expert 1K that I have not been able to make everything work the way it does 
with my K3.  The RS-232 port on the TS-480 seems to want the computer to be the 
master and if connected to the computer it does not spontaneously transmit 
data.  So, if the TS-480 is connected to the amp directly with the RTS and DTS 
shorted it works with the amp but will not accept CAT data from the computer.  
If it is connected directly to an RS-232 port on the computer the TS-480 will 
not send data to the amp. If you unplug the computer and plug in the amp, the 
data goes to the amp or the data from the computer will go to the amp and the 
TS-480.  It is a bit difficult to grasp, but the bottom line with both amp and 
computer connected any command to change bands from the computer is executed in 
both the transceiver and the amp, but any commands to change frequency from the 
TS-480 are not
 executed until you transmit and the frequency counter in the Expert detects 
the new frequency.  I do not know how this compares with the KPA-500.  My K3 
has a band decoder in the accessory plug and will change the amp band when the 
band is changed either by a K3 control or by the Computer.  I will enjoy 
following this thread to find out where you go with this.  RS-232 seems to be 
so flexible that each new combination of equipment is an adventure.


 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart
On Thursday, May 22, 2014 3:23 PM, Jack Brindle jackbrin...@me.com wrote:
 


Mike;

First, the KPA serial ports are _not_ pass-through. Each has a specific purpose 
and don’t actually work together.

How you set up the XCVR serial port connection depends entirely on whether 
there is a computer in the 
situation or not, and whether that computer polls the radio for information. 
Since this is a remote base, can we
assume that a computer is involved and it is getting info from the radio? If 
so, then you need to set up the 
KPA500 so that it simply eavesdrops on the conversation. You will need to 
fabricate a Y adapter for this. In 
the case of the KPA all signals can go through, but realistically you only need 
pins 2, 3, 5 and (I believe) 8 
connected. Pin 8 is the handshake pin for the TS480, and is needed to allow the 
radio to send data on the
RS-232 port. It does not need to be connected to the KPA500 port, but if it is 
the KPA will simply ignore it.
Note that the KPA does not make a connection to that pin, so if you set the 
station up without a computer,
you will need to provide +12V for that signal to allow the TS480 to talk.

As the manual indicates on page 12, there are three menu items involved with 
this situation. You will
need to set the RADIO item to SERIAL, then set the RS232 X item to the 
appropriate data rate. Finally,
since the computer is polling the radio for data, set SER POLL to OFF. If there 
is nothing doing the polling,
you will need to set this item to ON to allow the KPA to do this task.

With this setup, things should work just fine. But we aren’t finished, you did 
mention a KRC2, so let’s discuss that.

I would suggest inserting the KRC2 in between the TS-480 and the KPA500. Make 
sure that only pins 2, 3 and 5
go to the KRC2 ports. That pesky TS480 handshake signal should not go through 
the KRC2 without making
changes inside the KRC2. What changes? Disconnect the W jumpers for the 
handshake pins and then jumper
across the connector side of the pins so that the signal gets passed from one 
DE9 to the other. Then set the
serial port data rate jumpers for the appropriate rate. The KRC2 can do 4800, 
9600 and 19200 bps with the V1.6
firmware. You probably want to run as fast as you can on the serial port, which 
means 19200 bps.
You can then plug the serial port cables into their appropriate connectors and 
try things out.

Be sure to check to make sure that pin 8 is the handshake pin needed for the 
TS480. I think it is that pin, but
will need to check it. Also look at the KRC2 manual for the proper W jumpers. 
I’ll also take a look and privately
email you what I come up with.

Your station should work quite well in this configuration. Good luck!

73,

Jack Brindle, W6FB
Elecraft Engineering


On May 22, 2014, at 7:38 AM, Michael Walker va...@portcredit.net wrote:

 All
 
 My remote base runs on a TS480 and I will be adding a KPA500 to the mix.
 
 In going over the documentation, I find that there is very little detail on
 actually interfacing on the RS232 port.  From what little I can read, I see
 it is as simple as plug it in and go, or am I missing something in the
 configuration.
 
 Can I pass RS232 signal through the Amp or is it a passive listener and
 handles band changes.
 
 I will also be using a KRC2 to change filters and antennas in the same
 solution.
 
 Mike va3mw
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Re: [Elecraft] Band Data

[WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft]

I have an SPE 1K-FA and my K3 switches bands with no mods, just a cord.  The 
band data is available on the 15 pin D Shell connector on the back.  My 
TS-480SAT has some issues but does most of the functions.  I don't know, but 
suspect that the 1.3K works like the 1K.


 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart
On Wednesday, May 21, 2014 8:50 PM, Richard Solomon w1...@earthlink.net wrote:
 


When you switch bands on the K3, is Band Data available to the user ?
Is that data written down anywhere, that I can get to ?

Reason I ask, is I want to investigate building an interface between the K3
and the SPE 1.3K-FA Amp to facilitate automatic bandswitching on the Amp.

73, Dick, W1KSZ


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Keying on SSB

[WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft]

I don't know about the K2.  It is an option on the K3 and many operators switch 
to CW to finish SSB contacts or make CW contacts in the phone band when 
conditions are marginal.  I have elected to have the option on my K3 and wish I 
could have it on my TS-480.  If you have it on your K2, enjoy, it is handy and 
great.  More used on 6 meters, but is great on other HF (and very legal 
everywhere!)

 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart
On Tuesday, May 6, 2014 7:35 AM, d...@k4eq.net d...@k4eq.net wrote:
 
I just discovered that when I hit my key while receiving on a sideband mode,
it keys the transmitter. Is this normal for the K2? I've never had a
transmitter do that.



Dale, K4EQ 



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom (or experience, anyway)

[WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft]

I would agree, but I prefer a bifocal magnifier head band with an external 
light.  I have two, one with an extra magnifying loop..  You definitely need 
some kind of magnifier unless you are very young with great eyesight or have a 
pet hawk or eagle to help.  Seeing eye dogs don't help much as they have great 
hearing which does not help unless you have power on and draw an arc.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart
On Sunday, May 4, 2014 10:10 AM, Dauer, Edward eda...@law.du.edu wrote:
 
One other tool I found essential - and I don¹t recall if anyone has
mentioned this yet - is a hand-held magnifying glass with built-in
illumination.

There are at least two kinds of occasions when this could be important.
One is those few places in which the soldered leads on a small board have
to be nibbled down to avoid contact with an overlying metallic part (the
instructions specify these points.)  The glass helps greatly in assuring
that the clearance actually exists.  The other are the more numerous
places in which the boards and other components are connected with
multi-pin connector blocks, at least some of which could be (I think)
connected with sideways displacement, or not fully inserted at all.  I
used the glass to inspect every one of them from every possible angle
before going on.  Once the whole assembly is complete it would be annoying
at best to identify an error like that.

In my experience (loaded K3, KPA500, KAT500, P3 and KX3) the only step I
found really difficult was inserting the K3¹s sub receiver.  Three hands
with fingers 2 mm wide and eight inches long would have helped.  I have
but two, shorter and stubbier than that.  What I found worked best was,
after unsuccessful attempt number five, quit for the night and have a
drink.

Ted, KN1CBR

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 test problem

[WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft]

I have no direct experience with the K1, but the first think I would look for 
is the diodes installed backward.  The band will be on the output (negative) 
end of the diode.  The next thing to look for is that all the diodes are open.  
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart
On Sunday, May 4, 2014 12:02 PM, Leroy Bellefeuille leeb...@hotmail.com wrote:
 
I am a first time K1 builder and am having a very difficult  time getting the 
proper voltage measurements for the test on page 46 of the manual.  
Test point J7 pin 8 should be 3.8vdc  I get 0
The test points on Diodes D9,D10,D11,D13, all measure 0
Any suggestions as to how to go about troubleshooting these problems?  I have 
had no problems up to this point, but this has me stumped.                      
     
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit Wisdom

[WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft]

If you are going to use the power tips a lot as hand drivers, but the magnetic 
handle to hold them, not a regular nut driver.  The difference is that the nut 
driver has a hardened tip and a recess for the bolt, but probably not magnetic. 
 The handle has a longer 1/4 inch recess, the magnet and no recess for the bolt 
which you do not need.  You can use the nut driver in a pinch, but the handle 
is better and they come in different lengths so you can reach things, not so 
important for a K3, but very important for airplanes.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart
On Saturday, May 3, 2014 1:16 PM, Bill W2BLC w2...@nycap.rr.com wrote:
 
Good point regarding the plastic foam egg cartons. I never even thought 
about them, as all I ever see are the old style paper ones. Must be from 
living in a cave!

Bill K-Line



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Re: [Elecraft] QRQ CW

[WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft]

I eight years as a flier in the Air Force during the Vietnam era and 15 years 
as  private, instrument rated pilot I do not recall ever hearing Copy That on 
the radio.  We were trained to use Niner for Nine because it was easier to be 
sure what you heard in a series of numbers.  It is really important whether you 
meant Niner thousand or Five thousand feet.  The only time I recall hearing 
Copy That was in the inane commercial where two actors were conversing with a 
series of Copy Thats.  I have heard things like Copy Niner Thousand.  To repeat 
a controllers instruction when it is very important to get it correctly.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



 From: Charlie T, K3ICH pin...@erols.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Wednesday, April 30, 2014 9:10 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] QRQ CW
 

I always thought the phrase Copy That was a holdover from either pilot or 
military lingo, much like saying Niner for the number 9.

73, Chas


- Original Message - 
From: Barry w...@comcast.net
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, April 30, 2014 9:35 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] QRQ CW


I have QSOed with W4BQF at 70-90 WPM (thought it's been a few years...) 
The
 CW sounded fine, though don't know if Tom was running his K3 at the time.
 Personally, I never use QSK.  I find it annoying to have the noise pop in
 between characters.

 Regarding the anti-contesters, to each their own.  What grates on my 
 nerves
 is hearing the newer hams start every transmission on 2m FM with Copy
 that, the VHF version of please copy...  :-)

 Barry W2UP



 --
 View this message in context: 
 http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/QRQ-CW-tp7588139p7588178.html
 Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] QRQ CW

[WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft]

A lot of contesters can manage a 30 WPM Contest QSO or even 50 WPM, but would 
be hard pressed to get solid copy of a 25 WPM Rag Chew or even slower with W1AW 
sending QST Text.  I can get a DX call sign at 50 if I get to hear it several 
times and there is good signal strength and not too much QRM, but I don't claim 
to copy 50 WPM.  I can get by with a few mistakes using paddles at 22 or 23 and 
a straight key at 25 or 26 but to QSO with DX or Contest at 30 to 50 I need my 
puter and the F keys programmed.  So for copy speed I will claim no more than 
25.  As a contester, I have much better results if I keep my speed at 28 or 
below because the speed merchants who can call CQ at 30 to 50 often cannot copy 
your call at that speed.  I think we would all have more fun and probably make 
more QSOs if we would slow down to about 1.2 times our Rag Chew speed, but I 
have a lot of fun the way things are, so I am not complaining.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



 From: mcduf...@ag0n.net mcduf...@ag0n.net
To: als...@nc.rr.com; elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2014 7:51 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] QRQ CW
 


 Not at all. There were a number of posters here who simply could not 
 believe anybody could copy 30 WPM.

Really?  :o(

 I thought it would be interesting to point out that several 1000 
 contesters consider 30 WPM to a routine speed.

Agree.

 Of course to a no-coder, many Generals and Extras these days, 30 WPM 
 might as well be 1000 WPM.  In their eyes it is QRQ.

We used to consider speeds over about 45 to be QRQ.  I still do.  I certainly
don't consider myself a QRQ operator, and I regularly run at 30-35.  My aging,
retired brain no longer does well at upper speeds.  Because I had been off of HF
for over ten years when I retired, it took a long time to get back to being
comfy at 30.  The brain just wouldn't keep up with the key when sending.  Doing
better now, but I'm no QRQ op.

Gary
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft UPS deliveries

[WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft]

If I lived in Alaska I think I would rather have Good Wood Delivery than Good 
Elecraft Delivery.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



 From: Edward R Cole kl...@acsalaska.net
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Wednesday, April 23, 2014 11:33 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft UPS deliveries
 

Probably already moderated - but I read the digest version...delivery 
twice a day! :-)

You guys ought to try living in Alaska and trying to get good 
delivery.  UPS only delivers on weekdays.  Their 2-day always takes 
3-days; USPS Priority Mail delivery is typically 3 days but can take 
5-days.  Parcel Post is 20-day (min).

UPS Ground to Alaska was not always available but now it is.  I don't 
use it much but would say 7-days is good.  UPS ground from my 
Anchorage electronic supply house is overnight if I get the order in 
by 3pm.  Of course that is not on weekends.

Cost of UPS/Fedex - Ha!  If the vendor only ships 2-day that can be a 
minimum of $50, no matter that the part cost $2.30.  Therefore, I do 
not chose UPS or Fedex and often chose my vendor based on whether 
they will send USPS Priority Mail.  Note Parcel Post rates to AK just 
jumped so it costs about 90% of choosing Priority Mail.  PP is history for AK.

I like free shipping!  Yeah, you are paying for that in the price of 
the goods ordered.  But isn't everyone offering this!

73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
     Kits made by KL7UW
Dubus Mag business:
    dubus...@gmail.com

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Re: [Elecraft] Fake FTDI chips

[WILLIS COOKE]

The only way I know to use a genuine RS-232 port is to use a desk top computer 
with a plug in board.  I would also like to use a lap-top computer and as far 
as I know RS-232 ports are not available.  If anyone knows differently, please 
let us in on the info.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



 From: Ross Primrose n...@n4rp.com
To: Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Monday, April 14, 2014 1:36 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Fake FTDI chips
 

But, if Elecraft had a USB port on the back of the K3, then _Elecraft_ 
would be the only one that had to worry about fake chips.  The end user 
would only have to supply a USB cable

73, Ross N4RP

On 4/14/2014 2:19 PM, Ingo Meyer, DK3RED wrote:
 Hello Don,

 With the serial cable, I can use a real serial port or a good USB to 
 serial adapter to
 program my handheld.

 I have to disagree with you. Yes, a RS-232 interface is the best 
 choice, if you can use a RS-232 interface at your computer. If not, 
 also you will use an adapter. But what is a RS-232 to USB adapter? 
 Right, a chip from Prolific or FTDI ( hopefully). Nobody is protected 
 from a fake chip.


-- 
FCC Section 97.313(a) At all times, an amateur station must use the minimum 
transmitter power necessary to carry out the desired communications.

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Re: [Elecraft] Fake FTDI chips

[WILLIS COOKE]

The point is that though Elecraft sells dongles and no doubt does its best to 
buy genuine dongles, they do not generate enough revenue for Elecraft to make a 
lot of guarantees.  I bought one of Elecraft's dongles when I bought my K3 in 
2007.  It worked well with the XP computer that I used then. It did not work 
when I upgraded to Win 7, but I would not expect Elecraft to guarantee that it 
would work with an operating system that was not available when the dongle was 
sold.  All I have heard is advise to buy dongles from reputable dealers, but 
how do you identify the reputable dealer.  I think we can all agree that 
Elecraft qualifies as a reputable dealer, but I bought the dongle from Elecraft 
and at the time no one knew what was happening so I bought an RS-232 card and 
eliminated the dongle for my desk top, but I don't know how to find a reputable 
dealer to buy a dongle for my new Chinese made Lenovo lap top.  Some 
information, such as I bought a
 SkyBlue dongle from ABC Company for $129.95 and it worked prefectly in my Win 
7 machine from Bangladesh Computer Company would be helpful.  I have not seen 
any such advise here.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



 From: Phil Wheeler w...@socal.rr.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Monday, April 14, 2014 4:06 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Fake FTDI chips
 

Likely the point is:

  * Many of us did not order the cable from
    Elecraft. I had three already and they all
    work fine with any of my computers (OS X 10.9,
    Win 7, Win 8.1) and all work well with the K3
    and it's line -- excepting the KX3 and KAT500
    which have a non-DB9 connector.
  * Several here have already said they are using
    Win XP, best I recall -- so assuming an
    up-to-date computer just because someone has a
    K3 is optimistic.

73, Phil w7ox

On 4/14/14, 1:33 PM, Bill W2BLC wrote:
 Whatever is the problem? I bought the adapter 
 from Elecraft - thus assuring me that it will 
 work as it is supposed to. It works with 
 whatever computer I have plugged in at the time 
 - running an old version of HRD and the current 
 stuff from Elecraft.

 So far as supporting old OS? What for? As in: 
 You are running a very fine rig (K3), so I would 
 assume a good (read as modern up-to-date) 
 computer is also used in the shack - hence no 
 legacy issues.

 Perhaps I am missing the point of this thread?

 Bill K-Line

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Re: [Elecraft] Fake FTDI chips

[WILLIS COOKE]

Really interesting Ian, but the real question is how do you separate the real 
Prolific and FTDI chips from the fake.  The fake Prolific chips have been on 
the market for a long time and would not work on Win 7.  The only way I could 
find to avoid buying the fake chips was to avoid Prolific altogether.  Now, you 
tell us (and others) that fake FTDI.  I just spent 20 minutes on the HP web 
site trying to find out how long ago I bought my HP P6230 desk top and my 
Office Pro 6500 printer.  I think that HP must have subbed their help site to 
the Chinese company that makes the fake chips. 

We need to publish the names of the criminals that are repackaging and selling 
the fake chips.  The best way I have found is to assume they are all fake or 
mixed fake and genuine and to avoid buying any and all products that do not 
advertise and supply genuine Prolific or FTDI chips.  Since I do not know any 
manufacturers or sources that guarantee this and I have owned my computer since 
Win 7 was released, at the moment I still only know one method, avoid USB 
converters all together except for products furnished with a converter.

Can you shed any light on this ubiquitous problem? 
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



 From: Ian White gm3...@ifwtech.co.uk
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Saturday, April 12, 2014 2:23 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Fake FTDI chips
 


It was only a matter of time before fake FTDI RS232-USB adapter chips
began to appear. 

http://zeptobars.ru/en/read/FTDI-FT232RL-real-vs-fake-supereal 

This fascinating page shows how some anonymous Chinese company has
created a fake FT232RL chip using a mask-programmable microcontroller,
and printed it with the FTDI name and logo.

Like Prolific (the real Prolific company, that is) FTDI have updated
their drivers to detect these fakes... but that also means that anyone
who has bought a fake chip will have a non-working adapter.

The message is always the same: fakes are hard to spot, so buy only from
reliable distributors.

FYI, the real FTDI company is a family-owned firm right here in
Scotland's 'Silicon Glen'.


73 from Ian GM3SEK



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Re: [Elecraft] SO2R thoughts

[WILLIS COOKE]

When I have thoughts about SO2R my thoughts run toward RS-232, antenna 
switching, antenna isolation, audio switching, key switching, headphone 
switching, etc.  I would think audio compensation and design would be a concern 
in individual transceiver design rather than having much to do with SO2R.  I am 
also concerned about which, if any auxiliary control boxes to purchase or build 
and which loggers to use for every day DXing and Contesting.  Is any one else 
having such thoughts?  When I hear fidelity mentioned as I tune across the 
bands, I just keep on tuning because I can't even hear the fidelity, much less 
apply it to SSB.

I can identify with the Navy Carrier Vet even though my hearing loss is due to 
a combination of Measles, Asian Flu, 2500 hours in a B-52, 1000 hours as a 
private pilot, 60 years of Morse, not to mention 30 years in a Chemical Plant 
around gas and steam valves, compressors, turbines and the like. I can't tell 
the difference between a K3 and the best fidelity that Best Buy has to offer.  
I am a Chemical Plant Control Engineer, not an Audio Engineer.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



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[Elecraft] XP and other Vintage Operating Systems

[WILLIS COOKE]

It may be worth mentioning that running XP for such Internet Applications like 
Telnet, Email and downloading Logger Software are not as riskey as banking, 
investments and other business where the hackers can really find something.  
Also, just because Microsoft will no longer issue service packs, it does not 
mean that protection from Anti-Virus and other protection vendors will go away. 
 If you were a hacker, would you attack 15 year old systems or the latest Win 7 
and Win 8 systems where the money applications live?
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart
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Re: [Elecraft] SO2R thoughts

[WILLIS COOKE]

Jim, like you, I have not experienced the harshness of the K3, but maybe it is 
because my hearing rolls off at 2500 to 2700 Hz very drastically which makes me 
wonder if those who have the difficulty have more a more normal hearing range 
and hi-fi speakers or headsets, thus could benefit with a low pass filter on 
the audio.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



 From: Jim Brown j...@audiosystemsgroup.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Friday, March 28, 2014 11:58 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] SO2R thoughts
 

On 3/27/2014 7:25 PM, Stephen Bloom wrote:
 another K3 ...Upside:  SO2R is most intuitive with identical xcvrs,
 plays well with KPA500/KAT500, identical cabling  ...Downside:  Expensive,

Consider a stripped down K3 for the 2nd radio. You don't need an antenna 
tuner, buy it without the 2nd RX, minimal filters.

 It's more fun to have different rigs to play with, and like others, I find
 the K3 can be kind of harsh to listen to for many hours.

Gee, I haven't experienced that, and I've used mine for lots of long 
contests.

73, Jim K9YC


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Re: [Elecraft] USB to Serial Ports adapter: a product test

[WILLIS COOKE]

Do you have a sure fire way to detect the counterfeit ships before buying, 
including buying brand name at additional cost.  What brand or supplier is safe?
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



 From: Doug Person k0...@aol.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Friday, March 28, 2014 12:38 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] USB to Serial Ports adapter: a product test
 

I did the exact same thing for Baofeng radios.  I just converted the 
programming cable to a serial cable.  The counterfeit chips are a 
/serious/ problem.  You will be hard-pressed to find a new computer with 
real serial ports in them.  So, Serial to USB conversion is an ongoing 
necessity.

Doug -- K0DXV

On 3/28/2014 12:56 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
 That explanation dances all around the real world situation.  The 
 Chinese have been making cheap counterfeit Prolific and FTDI chips. 
 Both Prolific and FTDI have produced drivers which detect those 
 counterfeit chips to protect their intellectual property.
 While the counterfeit chips may work fine when used under Windows XP, 
 they will not work with the newer Windows 7 or 8 drivers.

 Yes, there are workarounds - turn off Windows updates and load the 
 older drivers which do not have the detection algorithms.  I would 
 prefer not to do that, and I have been burned several times with the 
 Chinese counterfeit transistors and ICs.  I ordered what was supposed 
 to be 2N5739 transistors which are no longer available from reliable 
 manufacturers.  I had to throw all 10 of them into the trash because 
 they did not work above the audio range.  The SSM2165 used on the K2 
 KSB2 board is an obsolete part, but is advertized from Chinese vendors 
 - unfortunately, that chip does not work, so it is buyer beware.  If 
 you buy counterfeit goods, it is just like getting a counterfeit $100 
 bill, it is worthless.  Unfortunately, there are vendors who are 
 listing 'workarounds' in order to sell their counterfeit products 
 rather than 'raising hell' to stop this proliferation of counterfeit 
 devices.

 I cut the USB end off the USB to Wouxun adapter that had the 
 counterfeit chip in it and will be connecting it to a DB9 connector.  
 I can then connect it to either a real serial port or to a good USB to 
 serial adapter.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 On 3/28/2014 1:11 AM, WA7SPY wrote:
 Here is a very good explanation about USB to serial port converters. 
 ( see below) You pay a higher price but the recommended one works 
 with my Windows 7 PC. I have had no problems connecting older RS232 
 equipment to my Windows 7 PC. It works like a champ.
 I have no interest in the US Converters but there products work well!
 http://www.usconverters.com/index.php?main_page=pageid=62



 On Mar 27, 2014, at 8:57 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 Hi all,

 I have had an experience with the Chinese fake Prolific USB to 
 serial chips.  A Wouxun VHF/UHF handeld would not work with my Win7 
 computer because the Prolific drivers identified the chip as a fake 
 Chinese knockoff.  I tried the solutions in the web as well as the 
 older Prolific drivers with no great success.  I even tried the 
 Linux solutions and was not able to program the handheld (I am not a 
 Linux guru, but I followed the instructions).  Simply, it did not 
 work, and I am not willing  to keep a Windows XP computer going just 
 for these Chinese fake chips.  I bought the programming cable in 
 good faith, but that faith has been destroyed by the Chinese fake 
 chips.



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 to KW 1000 amp

[WILLIS COOKE]

I don't have any experience with the KW1000 but the internet reference says it 
is a near copy of an SB-200 Heathkit.  There are many of the SB-200 in use.  I 
have used my K3 to drive a Clipperton L with little difficulty and the main 
difference is that the Clipperton has four of the 572B tubes instead of two.  I 
would connect the relay and ALC as well as a coaxial cable for the RF and start 
with about 30 watts of output then increase it until you get the proper 
performance.  There is not a lot of precautions for the K3 and it is straight 
forward.  Just read the manual on both the amp and the transceiver and you 
should be successful if both are in proper operating condition.  I have retired 
my Clipperton because good Cetron 572Bs are no longer being manufactured and 
the Chinese Tubes are not good quality.  I would not recommend putting much 
into any 572B amplifier unless I had in hand good tubes to use.  You can 
successfully replace 811s with
 572Bs, but do not go the other way unless you have a different plate supply as 
the 572 is good for around 2500 volts and the 811 for less.  I think most 811 
amps run 4 tubes and around 1500 volts.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



 From: Tony Nightingale tony.nighting...@yahoo.co.uk
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2014 6:16 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 to KW 1000 amp
 

Hi, I have a K3 and want a simple way to use it to drive a KW 1000 linear 
Amplifier.    has anyone done this and how??

Tony   G3ZPU
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Re: [Elecraft] Digitmodes what am I missing

[WILLIS COOKE]

Neither Denis nor I, nor anyone else said that no one does or should like 
digital.  No one is trying to do away with digital or make it less legal.  We 
just said that we did not care for it because it is too much like e-mail which 
we obviously do not want to get away from because we are participating.  We 
just said that we enjoy CW and do not want to lose it either.  RTTY annoys me 
because it takes up the whole band, but PSK,  not so much.  But, if you would 
like, I will go on record that PSK or RTTY has not proved to be either immoral 
or fattening.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



 From: N7RJN n7...@nobis.net
To: Acbross acbr...@yahoo.com 
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Saturday, March 22, 2014 1:42 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Digitmodes what am I missing
 

Hi Art,

I just went to the Freedv web site: : http://freedv.org/tiki-index.php

Looks interesting. Thanks for the suggestion.

Bob - N7RJN

On 3/22/14, 10:42, Acbross acbr...@yahoo.com wrote:


Just goes to show that for every CW nut out there there is a digi nut who
prefers to type on the keyboard and is fascinated with the ability of
these programs to decode a bunch of tones and turn them into letters. Not
all of us are into paddles and talking on the mic all the time. It's what
makes us hams.

How about the new digital audio mode Freedv that uses simultaneous PSK
streams to give noise free digital audio on the HF bands at decreased
bandwidth?

Art

KC7GF


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Re: [Elecraft] Digimodes what am I missing?

[WILLIS COOKE]

I feel the same way Denis.  I guess when I finish Honor Roll and Challenge 3000 
maybe I will get back to it, but I am old and the younger folks don't seem to 
get the charge from CW that I do.  To me, even when you talk, digi is too much 
like email!
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



 From: F5vjc foxfive@gmail.com
To: Elecraft Reflector Elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Thursday, March 20, 2014 5:56 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Digimodes what am I missing?
 

Is it me, but what is the attraction to the  Digimodes?

I can and do understand the achievement to get a new mode working, which is
the only satisfaction that I can find.

Why?

Having succeeded in getting any Digimode working the only  traffic I see
are canned messages and brag dialogues of no great interest.
All rather boring and impersonal.
What PC, how much memory, what operating system ad nausea.

Yes I operate CW and the rubber stamp and the DX QSO are very familiar to
me but at least it's a skill to send and receive CW.

I am not knocking the Digimodes I hope but would like to know,  are there
any real keyboard to keyboard interesting QSO/s to be found,  and if so
where?

73, F5VJC
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K3 Off Grid

[WILLIS COOKE]

Paul, I have been wondering where you got your information.  It now sounds like 
you have been using peak currents that are designed to prove to you that you 
need the surge protector equipment rather than any kind of metering to predict 
battery life or any other type of average current or electric meter charges.  
Such surges are common with power supplies with large capacitance that are 
turned off then on and the capacitors charge.  These have to do only with the 
internal resistance in the power supply and the resistance of the electrical 
lines and nothing to do with your battery requirements.  Your battery capacity, 
I would estimate to be the receive current x the required operation time x the 
average power x 2 x transmit duty.  Receive current should be about 0.5 amps 
for the K2, 1.0 for the K3 with one receiver and 2.0 with two receivers.  The 
average power should be about 0.3 X peak power for CW and a bit less for SB.  
The duty cycle should be
 about 0.7 for a contest station calling CQ down to almost nothing for a 
station mostly listening to a net.  The efficiency for a battery would be best 
predicted by manufacturer's data, but should be high for a reasonable sized 
battery.  A 60 amp-hour battery is fairly small.  My station battery is rated 
at 122 amp hours.  A contest station calling CQ for 48 hours with a K3 using 
two receivers and transmitting at 100 watts should require a battery capable of 
48 hours x 2 amps +48 X (100 watts/12v) x 0.7 x 0.3 = 180 amp hours or two 
fully charged batteries.  Of course, you would want a big amplifier, a 
computer, some lights and a refrigerator for food and drink, so the K3 will be 
the least of your worry.  If you use an ice chest and an LED light and hunt and 
pounce a single well charged battery should handle a CQ WW unless you want a 
rotary beam or an amp.  You will note that you can cut your battery requirement 
in half with only one receiver in
 your K3.  This estimate makes a lot of reasonable assumptions, so it would 
require some empirical data to be very accurate, but it shows that operating on 
a weekend camping trip is very reasonable because you are unlikely to call CQ 
all night, particularly if your XYL is along to dictate some of your activity.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



 From: Paul (N1HEL) n1helra...@gmail.com
To: Frank R. Oppedijk fr...@qrd.nl; elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Wednesday, March 5, 2014 8:43 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K3 Off Grid
 

Hmmm.  Thanks for the comments. It may be that the amperage indicator on my new 
main line surge protector is faulty.  I will try again, this time using a 
Kill-A-Watt power consumption meter on my various power strips and adding up 
the readings of power drawn.  More news as it happens...
-Paul, N1HEL
_

- Original Message - From: Frank R. Oppedijk fr...@qrd.nl
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2014 2:06 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K3 Off Grid


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Re: [Elecraft] 12 volt battery

[WILLIS COOKE]

The reference to ground comes from the knob and tube days and telegraph before 
that when a single wire was strung on poles and the return path was through the 
earth ground.  Needless to say, that caused a lot of problems which were cured 
by running a return wire, but the safety ground is still needed to compensate 
for the resistance of the return wire (neutral) and prevent shock..  Ideally 
there should be very little current through the ground path.  I believe the 
Brits use the term Ground for Neutral and Earth for the actual ground.  
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



 From: Dale Putnam daleput...@hotmail.com
To: Bill Turner dezrat1...@wildblue.net; elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Wednesday, March 5, 2014 3:04 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 12 volt battery
 


Ground is not necessarily dirt. Ground is what ever medium allows current flow 
in the return circuit, be it rf.. ac.. dc.. or spikes. However.. each type of 
current flow.. REQUIRES not only a ground.. but a different ground as in 
different capabilities, skin or surface flow, multipoint flow,very high current 
flow are some examples.   A single ground, will not generally provide all that 
is needed. Yet,  generally, many grounds eventually wind up in dirt. 
Have a great day, 


--...   ...--
Dale - WC7S in Wy




 Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2014 12:17:43 -0800
 From: dezrat1...@wildblue.net
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 12 volt battery
 
 ORIGINAL MESSAGE:          (may be snipped)
 
 On 3/5/2014 11:42 AM, Dale Putnam wrote:
  The rf needs a ground.. yes...
 
 REPLY:
 
 I disagree. RF does not need to flow through dirt. Dirt is a poor 
 conductor for RF so why would you want to send it there?
 
 RF energy is expensive to generate. Keep it up in the air where it belongs.
 
 73, Bill W6WRT
 
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Re: [Elecraft] FW: [K3] K3 Off Grid

[WILLIS COOKE]

Most Engineers including me like lots of meters and we have the voltage and 
current instantaneous meters on our power supplies.  The metering on the K3 is 
redundant with the meters on the power supply.  A 50% duty cycle on transmit is 
way too much current.  Holding your key down 50% of the time will not make you 
very popular and will not yield a good fist.  About 30 to 35 % duty is a pretty 
good fist but you need to listen almost half the time if you are an excellent 
CW operator sending CQ and not getting any pile ups, so your duty cycle will 
vary from the hunt and pounce operator with less than 5% to the contest 
operator who holds a frequency and has a good answer rate which will have a 
duty cycle of maybe 15%.  A good contest operator will need several rotors and 
a 1500 watt (or more) amp which are hardly candidates for battery power.  So if 
you assume no rotary antenna and low power, you are good for a 48 hour contest 
with a good deep cycle
 battery starting at full charge.  Do you have a good battery with full charge? 
 That is entirely a different matter!
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



 From: Chester Alderman alderm...@windstream.net
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Wednesday, March 5, 2014 4:47 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] FW:  [K3] K3 Off Grid
 

Gosh Engineers...why not just suggest to Paul that he use the most simple
method of finding out the voltage and current the K3 draws by pressing the
K3's METER button

73,
Tom - W4BQF



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Lynn W. Taylor,
WB6UUT
Sent: Wednesday, March 5, 2014 5:23 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K3 Off Grid

Here is how I'd do it, your mileage may vary.

I'd measure the power draw at 100 watts key-down, and the power draw for
receive.

I'd assume 50% duty cycle.  You can skip a lot of math by either ignoring
the receive power draw (if it's low enough) and dividing by two, or adding
them together and dividing by two (averaging them together).

Multiply that number by the number of hours you need to be able to operate
-- and that's your target capacity in amp-hours.

That should over estimate the battery, so if that size wasn't economical,
I'd buy one slightly smaller.

That should insure that the battery does the job for years, even when it's
starting to fail.  It should also make sure you can keep operating if the
emergency was longer than initially planned.

Yes, there are a lot of factors, like operating mode that this appears to
ignore.  I'm simply assuming things like full power or nothing when the
operator might be running SSB or PSK-31 at 20 watts.

I'm also ignoring portability, which I would not do if I was operating for
fun.

73 -- Lynn

On 3/5/2014 1:15 PM, Steve Baum wrote:
 There are so many things to consider when you try to calculate battery 
 requirements for emergency operation, is it really possible to 
 accurately predict how long a given battery will last?

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Off Grid

[WILLIS COOKE]

That is why I put all my answers on the List.  I felt that it was a general 
interest topic that most would enjoy.  In spite of my opinion, I got one very 
pointed complaint for copying another's question to my answer on the list when 
he wanted to keep it private.  This is a prime example of why one should ask 
questions as specific as possible.  How do I use my K3 when I camp for a day is 
much different than how do I use my K3 off grid.  Camping is certainly Off 
Grid but it is not the first thing that comes to mind.   Camping with your car 
setting there is not the same as Camping with your camper equipped with house 
battery and engine battery and neither of these is the same as using your K3 at 
a wilderness cabin where you expect to be Off Grid till the snow melts north 
of Fairbanks.  It seemed to me that the various meanings of Off Grid needed 
discussion, but perhaps the building of the watch was too much.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



 From: Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT k...@coldrockshotbrooms.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Tuesday, March 4, 2014 12:46 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Off Grid
 

This is a great example of why people should use REPLY LIST or REPLY 
ALL in their mail client.

This could have been a great discussion of camping and portable power, 
about emergency operating, etc., but because it was nearly all off-list, 
it wasn't.

73 -- Lynn

On 3/3/2014 9:25 PM, WILLIS COOKE wrote:
 They often tell me that one should never ask an engineer the time because he 
 will tell you how to build a watch!  I plead guilty to that, but it seems 
 that not all people who use the buzz words understand what they mean and not 
 all people who would like an answer know what question to ask.  The simple 
 answer if to connect the K3 to your can battery, use QRP if you can and don't 
 get too long winded and run your battery down so that you can't start the car 
 when you want to leave.  Back to answer number 1.  All mobile rigs are off 
 the grid!
  
 Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
 K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart


 
   From: Gerald Manthey kc6...@gmail.com
 To: WILLIS COOKE wrco...@yahoo.com
 Sent: Monday, March 3, 2014 11:06 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Off Grid
  


 Hello Willis
 He was just wanting to use his K3 for camping trips. I explained a battery 
 and either charge with jumper cables from his vehicle or a small solar panel 
 to charge it with. I explained my set up and how I am off grid,  most the 
 time completely off grid. I also explained generators to him and explained 
 how I use them to charge my battery banks when there is no sun for days. I 
 also use wind turbine to charge my banks up. Also explained the benefit of 
 having a generator during an emergency or power outage such as storms or snow 
 storms, etc. I believe he has opted for a small quiet Honda Generator to 
 power stuff camping and to charge his battery and run the rig.

 Think I might have scared him with my set up. hihi the difference between 
 living minimal and living normal off grid.
 I believe a small battery would do him for camping, but the generator will 
 help during any emergency even at home.
 73's
 Gerald KC6CNN




 On Mon, Mar 3, 2014 at 10:53 PM, WILLIS COOKE wrco...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Maybe I need to explain further.  The grid is the network that provides power 
 in most modern countries.  It is a network of wiring and switches so that 
 power generated by power plants connected to the grid can be directed from 
 where it is generated to where it is needed by the power companies without 
 sending excessive current through any portion of the grid to overload the 
 equipment or waste any more power than is needed to supply all users.  If a 
 power plant is lost or needs to shut down for repair or modification it can 
 be accommodated by other power plants picking up the load.  Power Generating 
 companies sell each other power and no bodies lights go out unless there is a 
 real problem and then the companies switch to load shedding so that less 
 critical loads can be shut down, but the goal is to avoid anyone not having 
 the power they wish to pay for and use.  I suppose that David wishes to 
 operate free from the grid to prove a point, but the grid
   is very efficient and you cannot save money by generating your own 
electricity unless the cost of transmission lines is excessive, such as a 
mountain cabin or pipeline equipment in a remote location.  Hams might want 
to be capable of operating free of the grid for emergency operation when the 
community loses the ability to generate enough electricity, like the F-117s 
did to Bagdad during the Gulf Wars.  Nuclear attacks or insane 
environmentalists getting their way comes to mind.  In which case, we will 
need gasoline, diesel or propane fueled generators to fill the need until we 
can restore

Re: [Elecraft] K3 Off Grid

[WILLIS COOKE]

David, it just means that you will not use commercial AC power for anything.  
You will need a 12 volt battery and a means of charging your battery without 
using AC supplied by the grid.  You could charge it by an automobile engine, 
which means that any mobile is off grid.  You could get a solar charger or use 
a generator.  It brings me to wonder why you want to operate off grid when you 
don't know what it means.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



 From: David Peterson davidpetersonch...@hotmail.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Monday, March 3, 2014 6:03 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Off Grid
 

I would like to operate my K3 off grid.

I would like detailed information on this.  I am not a technical ham, so, I 
will need detailed help.

I am working on the technical side, but this takes time!

In advance, thanks for your help.

David
KA9GEU
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Off Grid

[WILLIS COOKE]

Maybe I need to explain further.  The grid is the network that provides power 
in most modern countries.  It is a network of wiring and switches so that power 
generated by power plants connected to the grid can be directed from where it 
is generated to where it is needed by the power companies without sending 
excessive current through any portion of the grid to overload the equipment or 
waste any more power than is needed to supply all users.  If a power plant is 
lost or needs to shut down for repair or modification it can be accommodated by 
other power plants picking up the load.  Power Generating companies sell each 
other power and no bodies lights go out unless there is a real problem and then 
the companies switch to load shedding so that less critical loads can be shut 
down, but the goal is to avoid anyone not having the power they wish to pay for 
and use.  I suppose that David wishes to operate free from the grid to prove a 
point, but the grid
 is very efficient and you cannot save money by generating your own electricity 
unless the cost of transmission lines is excessive, such as a mountain cabin or 
pipeline equipment in a remote location.  Hams might want to be capable of 
operating free of the grid for emergency operation when the community loses the 
ability to generate enough electricity, like the F-117s did to Bagdad during 
the Gulf Wars.  Nuclear attacks or insane environmentalists getting their way 
comes to mind.  In which case, we will need gasoline, diesel or propane fueled 
generators to fill the need until we can restore power.  We will be in a world 
of hurt until we can reestablish the grid. 
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



 From: Phil Wheeler w...@socal.rr.com
To: WILLIS COOKE wrco...@yahoo.com 
Sent: Monday, March 3, 2014 10:31 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Off Grid
 


I'm glad someone answered his question. I've been a ham a tad over 60 years 
(and using Elecraft rigs since 1999), but off the grid baffled me -- though I 
seldom operate all battery. Made me think of grid squares used for 6 meters and 
such, but I didn't think that's what he meant.  Thanks, Willis :-) 

I don't get his reasons either. Maybe he will tell us why. But if
  that's a primary goal the KX3 would be a better choice, I think.

73, Phil w7ox

 
On 3/3/14, 8:16 PM, WILLIS COOKE wrote:

David, it just means that you will not use commercial AC power for anything.  
You will need a 12 volt battery and a means of charging your battery without 
using AC supplied by the grid.  You could charge it by an automobile engine, 
which means that any mobile is off grid.  You could get a solar charger or use 
a generator.  It brings me to wonder why you want to operate off grid when you 
don't know what it means.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart 
 From: David Peterson 
davidpetersonch...@hotmail.com To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Monday, 
March 3, 2014 6:03 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Off Grid I would like to operate my K3 off grid. I would 
like detailed information on this.  I am not a technical ham, so, I will need 
detailed help. I am working on the technical side, but this takes time! In 
advance, thanks for your help. David
KA9GEU 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Off Grid

[WILLIS COOKE]

They often tell me that one should never ask an engineer the time because he 
will tell you how to build a watch!  I plead guilty to that, but it seems that 
not all people who use the buzz words understand what they mean and not all 
people who would like an answer know what question to ask.  The simple answer 
if to connect the K3 to your can battery, use QRP if you can and don't get too 
long winded and run your battery down so that you can't start the car when you 
want to leave.  Back to answer number 1.  All mobile rigs are off the grid!
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



 From: Gerald Manthey kc6...@gmail.com
To: WILLIS COOKE wrco...@yahoo.com 
Sent: Monday, March 3, 2014 11:06 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Off Grid
 


Hello Willis
He was just wanting to use his K3 for camping trips. I explained a battery and 
either charge with jumper cables from his vehicle or a small solar panel to 
charge it with. I explained my set up and how I am off grid,  most the time 
completely off grid. I also explained generators to him and explained how I use 
them to charge my battery banks when there is no sun for days. I also use wind 
turbine to charge my banks up. Also explained the benefit of having a generator 
during an emergency or power outage such as storms or snow storms, etc. I 
believe he has opted for a small quiet Honda Generator to power stuff camping 
and to charge his battery and run the rig. 

Think I might have scared him with my set up. hihi the difference between 
living minimal and living normal off grid. 
I believe a small battery would do him for camping, but the generator will help 
during any emergency even at home. 
73's
Gerald KC6CNN




On Mon, Mar 3, 2014 at 10:53 PM, WILLIS COOKE wrco...@yahoo.com wrote:

Maybe I need to explain further.  The grid is the network that provides power 
in most modern countries.  It is a network of wiring and switches so that power 
generated by power plants connected to the grid can be directed from where it 
is generated to where it is needed by the power companies without sending 
excessive current through any portion of the grid to overload the equipment or 
waste any more power than is needed to supply all users.  If a power plant is 
lost or needs to shut down for repair or modification it can be accommodated by 
other power plants picking up the load.  Power Generating companies sell each 
other power and no bodies lights go out unless there is a real problem and then 
the companies switch to load shedding so that less critical loads can be shut 
down, but the goal is to avoid anyone not having the power they wish to pay for 
and use.  I suppose that David wishes to operate free from the grid to prove a 
point, but the grid
 is very efficient and you cannot save money by generating your own 
electricity unless the cost of transmission lines is excessive, such as a 
mountain cabin or pipeline equipment in a remote location.  Hams might want to 
be capable of operating free of the grid for emergency operation when the 
community loses the ability to generate enough electricity, like the F-117s 
did to Bagdad during the Gulf Wars.  Nuclear attacks or insane 
environmentalists getting their way comes to mind.  In which case, we will 
need gasoline, diesel or propane fueled generators to fill the need until we 
can restore power.  We will be in a world of hurt until we can reestablish the 
grid. 

 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



 From: Phil Wheeler w...@socal.rr.com
To: WILLIS COOKE wrco...@yahoo.com
Sent: Monday, March 3, 2014 10:31 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Off Grid



I'm glad someone answered his question. I've been a ham a tad over 60 years 
(and using Elecraft rigs since 1999), but off the grid baffled me -- though 
I seldom operate all battery. Made me think of grid squares used for 6 meters 
and such, but I didn't think that's what he meant.  Thanks, Willis :-)

I don't get his reasons either. Maybe he will tell us why. But if
      that's a primary goal the KX3 would be a better choice, I think.

73, Phil w7ox



On 3/3/14, 8:16 PM, WILLIS COOKE wrote:

David, it just means that you will not use commercial AC power for anything.  
You will need a 12 volt battery and a means of charging your battery without 
using AC supplied by the grid.  You could charge it by an automobile engine, 
which means that any mobile is off grid.  You could get a solar charger or use 
a generator.  It brings me to wonder why you want to operate off grid when you 
don't know what it means.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart 
 From: David Peterson 
davidpetersonch...@hotmail.com To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Monday, 
March 3, 2014 6:03 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Off Grid I would like to operate my

Re: [Elecraft] K3 DSP bypass

[WILLIS COOKE]

I don't think the LCD will work well after a good coating of Rustoleum!
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



 From: Alan Bloom n...@sonic.net
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Monday, March 3, 2014 11:31 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 DSP bypass
 

On 03/03/2014 08:55 PM, Gary Gregory wrote:
 Maybe Elecraft will offer different color faceplates for the K3?

Hey, we're not appliance operators!  What ever happened to homebrewing?  Your 
local Ace Hardware has Rustoleum in dozens of designer colors.

:=)

Alan N1AL

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Re: [Elecraft] Advice on 6 meters...

[WILLIS COOKE]

Phil, 6 meters is vacant most of the time except for locals.  When it is good, 
it is mostly E skip with occasional F skip.  Some of us who have more than 200 
countries on all bands except 160 and 6 like it for the challenge, but figure 
on a lot of tuning for an occasional opening.  There is very little CW, but 
there is some around 50.090 to 50.095.  Most of the CW band is clobbered by 
beacons when the band is open.  A large portion of the stations on 6 meters 
have Technician operators who do not do code often.  If you find yourself 
tuning 10 meters during the sun spot nulls, you will find 6 meters much like 
that during the sun spot peaks.  A four or five element beam will make 6 meters 
look like 10 with a dipole or a vertical when the band is open.  Most QSOs will 
not even exchange names, just grid codes and usually don't even bother with 59. 
 In spite of all this, I still like it and operate it some.  It is much more 
interesting to me than
 RTTY or PSK and one of the few CW stations you hear there will be K5EWJ.  So 
if the lower bands bore you and Digital bores you even more, then maybe 6 
meters is your game.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



 From: Phil Hystad phys...@mac.com
To: elecraft Elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Wednesday, February 26, 2014 12:08 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Advice on 6 meters...
 

I have seen some comments recently about six meters and I have never operated 
six meters.  I don't really have a descent antenna for six meters, just my 
80-meter (ladder line fed) dipole or my hex beam that I can at least tune to 
six meters.

The band is always dead quiet with the small exception of some noise spikes 
here and there but very rare.

Question:  is there any activity for six meters that I should invest in a nice 
multi-element 6 meter bean antenna?

My most dominant operating mode would be CW but maybe some SSB from time to 
time.  I have no idea what's there as this band has always been blank to me.

73, phil, K7PEH

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Re: [Elecraft] Advice on 6 meters...

[WILLIS COOKE]

Jack, your idea of lots of CW and mine differ quite a bit.  If your CW is 
concentrated in the top 3 Khz of the CW band and you willingly give up most of 
the band to beacons and don't even miss the bandwidth you are not my kind of CW 
affecionado.  I do at least venture down to 50.090 for my CQs and much to my 
surprise I sometimes get an answer.  I made it my goal to get some activity for 
the Straight Key Century Club anniversary celebration this January and I was 
able to make 3 contacts during the month on 6 meters and one non SKCC contact. 
 But I  only have a 21 meter high tower and beam and a KW on 6 meters.  If five 
contacts in a month in only two states, all ground wave is not very little, we 
have a definition problem.  In comparison I made 452 CW QSOs on all bands and 
90 on 160 meters.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



 From: Jack vhfp...@gmail.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Wednesday, February 26, 2014 12:58 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Advice on 6 meters...
 

Sorry, Willis, but the beacons are operated in a narrow range of 
frequencies well below the normal CW DX frequencies of 50.080-50.100MHz. 
From Ecuador I heard many beacons from South and Central America, the 
Caribbean and the US, and none of them were anywhere near my operating 
frequency of 50.097MHz. Roughly 2/3 of my QSOs were CW and the remainder 
SSB so the statement there is very little CW is absolutely untrue.

Jack, W6NF/VE4SNA

On 2/26/2014 10:45 AM, WILLIS COOKE wrote:
 Phil, 6 meters is vacant most of the time except for locals.  When it is 
 good, it is mostly E skip with occasional F skip.  Some of us who have more 
 than 200 countries on all bands except 160 and 6 like it for the challenge, 
 but figure on a lot of tuning for an occasional opening.  There is very 
 little CW, but there is some around 50.090 to 50.095.  Most of the CW band is 
 clobbered by beacons when the band is open.  A large portion of the stations 
 on 6 meters have Technician operators who do not do code often.  If you find 
 yourself tuning 10 meters during the sun spot nulls, you will find 6 meters 
 much like that during the sun spot peaks.  A four or five element beam will 
 make 6 meters look like 10 with a dipole or a vertical when the band is open. 
  Most QSOs will not even exchange names, just grid codes and usually don't 
 even bother with 59.  In spite of all this, I still like it and operate it 
 some.  It is much more interesting to me than
   RTTY or PSK and one of the few CW stations you hear there will be K5EWJ.  
So if the lower bands bore you and Digital bores you even more, then maybe 6 
meters is your game.
  
 Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
 K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart


 
   From: Phil Hystad phys...@mac.com
 To: elecraft Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Wednesday, February 26, 2014 12:08 PM
 Subject: [Elecraft] Advice on 6 meters...
  

 I have seen some comments recently about six meters and I have never operated 
 six meters.  I don't really have a descent antenna for six meters, just my 
 80-meter (ladder line fed) dipole or my hex beam that I can at least tune to 
 six meters.

 The band is always dead quiet with the small exception of some noise spikes 
 here and there but very rare.

 Question:  is there any activity for six meters that I should invest in a 
 nice multi-element 6 meter bean antenna?

 My most dominant operating mode would be CW but maybe some SSB from time to 
 time.  I have no idea what's there as this band has always been blank to me.

 73, phil, K7PEH

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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 vs KAT3

[WILLIS COOKE]

Sam, I will need to do a bit of guessing because you do not describe your 
antennas well enough for me to know the answer, but it sounds like you have 
your vertical tuned for 30 meters with a radiation resistance of about 35 ohms. 
 If you have some door knob capacitors connect one from the antenna to ground.  
Use the smallest capacity unit you have and see if that does not drop the SWR 
some.  You can also connect an open ended piece of coax to the feed point and 
the braid to ground and use it as a capacitor.  Try increasing lengths until 
you get the SWR down enough to please you.  I would probably say that it was 
good enough at 1.6.  If you get out and nothing arcs it might be OK.  The SWR 
at the transmitter end of the COAX is not very important, it is the SWR at the 
antenna end that causes the loss.  You need to connect your SWR meter at the 
antenna to know what that is, but a 1.6 SWR will not hurt much unless you are 
using about 1000 feet of
 coax to feed it.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



 From: Sam Morgan k5oai@gmail.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Monday, February 24, 2014 8:50 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] KAT500 vs KAT3
 

Question about the difference between my KAT3 and my KAT500 tuning.
Currently running 1.57 firmware (although I have seen this b4 on earlier 
versions) This happens on numerous bands, but for now lets talk 30m

Running 100w out of the K3 and no amp.
Vertical antenna KAT500 in AUTO tune best SWR 1.6:1
even after a long tune and then another tap to try to find a lower swr still 
1.6:1 best swr (KAT500 set to 1.8:1 to cause a retune)

KAT3 with same vertical antenna best swr 1.0:1

I have 2 antennas, one vertical and one horizontal on all bands,
so I would prefer to use the KAT500 as it has all my antennas into it

but I would also like to run the lower swr
but that isn't possible unless I do some multiple button pushes
kat500 ant 1 to 2
kat3 to bypass
kat500 to auto
then reverse
kat500 to byp
kat3 to ATU
kat500 ant2 to 1
to get back to the other antenna using the kat3

or I have to make the kat3 retune everytime I switch vert to horz if I use only 
the kat3 for both

the idea is to have a quick switch from horz to vert and back
this should be possible using either tuner
with the swr the same on them both

the vertical has a 1.5:1 with out the tuner
the question is why won't the kat500 tune the vertical to a 1.0:1
if the kat3 will tune the same antenna to 1.0:1

-- GB  73
K5OAI
Sam Morgan
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Re: [Elecraft] (no subject)

[WILLIS COOKE]

I would recommend the Amp first for two reasons.  One, you need the power.  10 
watts is enough to make a lot of contacts, but it will leave you disappointed a 
lot of times when you will want to make the contact. A lot has been said for 
QRP and if you want a challenge it will certainly give you one, but you will 
find that people will avoid rag chews because they can' get solid copy and you 
will miss many contacts because the other party can't copy you.  The second 
reason is that the amplifier is deeper into the K3 than the tuner and the 
assembly is easier with the amp first.  The tuner is located at the corner of a 
K3 and is easy to add later.  

But both are great additions, particularly if you are not using an external 
high power amp and if you can afford the expense I recommend both of them as 
soon as possible.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



 From: John Saxon johnbsa...@yahoo.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Friday, February 21, 2014 2:45 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] (no subject)
 

I have a K3/10 with no add-ons, and now am ready to get a KPA3 100W amp  KAT3 
tuner, to install myself.  I would rather not purchase them at the same time.  
Is there a more favorable order to get them?  Amp first or tuner first?  I 
suspect there may be some construction issues that would favor one over the 
other to be acquired first.

Thanks  73,
John
K5ENQ
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 recommended max power for digital modes?

[WILLIS COOKE]

I don't think that Elecraft recommends any particular power.  The amplifier 
will put out full power with acceptable distortion, but the lower quality 
receivers of others will easily overload and if you use more than a few watts 
it will prevent the use of the pass band by your neighbors and you will not be 
popular with them.  They will tell you as they all want to be in the same SSB 
pass band so that they can see everybody at one time.  Elecraft can't do 
anything about the quality of their competitors receivers.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



 From: WA7SPY wa7...@comcast.net
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Friday, February 21, 2014 9:43 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] KPA100 recommended max power for digital modes?
 

I just ordered a KPA100 with the auto tuner for my KX3. In anticipation of the 
arrival of the amp  I was looking at the operating manual online and did not 
see any recommended power setting for operating the amp with digital modes. I 
plan to use the amp for PSK31. What is the recommended max power setting for 
the amp using PSK31 with a KX3?

Thanks,
Glenn Maclean WA7SPY
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Re: [Elecraft] Can P3 Be On Top of K3?

[WILLIS COOKE]

I have a shelf above my K3 which would allow the P3 to sit flat.  My rotor is 
there now, but it could be moved.  I have a P3 waiting for construction, but 
the rotor and shelf have been there since I put # 1025 there in 2007 or 
whatever with no ill effects.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



 From: Phil Wheeler w...@socal.rr.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Saturday, February 15, 2014 10:06 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Can P3 Be On Top of K3?
 

Thursday I ordered my K3 and P3. All the images I see show the P3 on either the 
right or left side of the K3. But it seems having the P3 screen just above the 
display of the K3 would be an easier way to operate.

Is there any reason not to locate the P3 that way (like vents in the K3, 
speaker, etc.)?

73, Phil w7ox (K2 #380, K1 #18)
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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna question

[WILLIS COOKE]

It depends on which side of Chicago you are talking.  NW of Chicago there is a 
big lode of iron which makes verticals work very well with few radials as they 
do here on the Gulf Coast for DX.  A 43 ft vertical is 5/8 wave on 20 meters 
which will give it about 3 db gain over a 1/4 wave vertical with equal 
counterpoise.  Both will do better than a horizontal dipole at average heights 
and are easier to erect than a dipole at 50 to 100 feet.  Low dipoles will 
usually do better at distances less than 1000 miles and well counterpoised 
verticals at distances more than 2000 miles.  Conductive grounds will allow you 
to get away with fewer radials, but if you live in the desert the counterpoise 
will be difficult.  It depends is a phrase that rings true with antennas more 
than other things.  Read the ARRL Antenna Handbook from cover to cover then 
read it again.  Repeat at 1 or 2 year intervals and buy a new copy every few 
years.  Understanding antennas is
 difficult for Physicists and Electrical Engineers (I am both) and even more 
difficult for others, so plan on putting in the study, modeling time, 
construction time and enjoy.  It is arguably the most difficult and enjoyable 
part of ham radio. 
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



 From: Rich reh...@ix.netcom.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Thursday, February 13, 2014 9:07 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Antenna question
 

Does that middle of the country include Chicago?

Rich
NU6T

On 2/13/2014 5:33 AM, James Rodenkirch wrote:


 And QST recently published a piece showing that a better use of a 43 ft 
 vertical might be as the center support for horizontal dipoles for 80 and 40, 
 a concept with which I strongly agree. (smiley face annotation removed)
 As stated by a frtend of mine, after eading the above little ditty and 
 replying, initially, Snort, my friends goes on to addobviously, the 
 author of that uninformed statement hasn't had to work stations on 80 and 40 
 from the middle of the country when signal arrival angles start changing 
 dramatically and rapidly. (smiley face annotation re-inserted)
 72/u3, Jim Rodenkirch K9JWV



 Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2014 23:09:23 -0800
 From: j...@audiosystemsgroup.com
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Antenna question

 On 2/11/2014 3:36 PM, George Thornton wrote:
 I have a small lot.  I currently am using a 3 element Yagi that barely fits 
 on the property.  I was thinking about getting a vertical as a second HF 
 antenna.
 As it happens, over the past year or so I've been engaged in a serious
 modeling study that compares the performance of vertical and horizontal
 antennas at mounting heights that are practical for hams in your
 situation. So the real question is, what will that vertical add to your
 station beside a second antenna for SO2R?

 If I were in your situation, I would add an antenna only to cover bands
 that the tri-bander does not. Even the best vertical is unlikely to
 outperform the tribander unless you happen to be blessed with REALLY
 good ground conductivity, and even then only by a dB or so at low
 elevation angles. Second, if I were to add a vertical, it would be one
 that is configured as a center-fed dipole, and I would add it ONLY if I
 could elevate it at least 20 ft.

 Yes, I know this wasn't the question you asked, but it needs to be asked
 and answered. :)  Also, by all means pay attention to K6DGW's comments,
 with which I completely concur.

 There's a link to a presentation I did last fall of the vertical height
 issue, and also one about the recently popular 43 ft vertical.
 http://k9yc.com/publish.htm

 I'm still working on the comparison of verticals to horizontal antennas
 -- I've done all the modeling and know the results, but haven't
 organized it to show yet. AD5X has also done some excellent work on the
 43 ft vertical idea. And QST recently published a piece showing that a
 better use of a 43 ft vertical might be as the center support for
 horizontal dipoles for 80 and 40, a concept with which I strongly agree. :)

 73, Jim K9YC


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Re: [Elecraft] WG: Antenna question

[WILLIS COOKE]

I am all for caution!  That is why I suggested  to start with 100 mw and work 
up rather that full power and take your chances.  There is also a big 
difference in the selected antennas.  Either a Carolina Windom or a classic 
Windom has a lot of vertical polarization while a Yagi has very little.  Also 
my opinion of the quality of a K3 versus an FT-2K is very much higher, but I 
think the ability to turn the power down to sub QRP levels and the difference 
in antennas is very important.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



 From: bernhard.ho...@bmw.de bernhard.ho...@bmw.de
To: wrco...@yahoo.com 
Sent: Wednesday, February 12, 2014 9:00 AM
Subject: WG: [Elecraft] Antenna question
 

Hi Willis,

I killed an FT-2000D with a windom on ANT1 and Groundplane on ANT2...they were 
both about 20feet apart!
Before that happened that on 15m my SWR of the windom was bad when the GP was 
connected..so the isolation of the FT-2000D was pretty poor.
But this was, after speaking to other FT-2k owners, only an issue with the 200W 
version.

Using now a 2 el Ultrabeam (by the way cool antenna for small spaces ), HF2V 
Vertical, Longwire and 3 Band Windom but haven't tried this with the K3.
Using a 4 x switch on the roof of the house now and one cable going to the 
shack.

So I am pretty cautious with 2 ant on one rig...hi

73s from Bavaria
Bernie
DL5RDP

--
From: WILLIS COOKE wrco...@yahoo.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 2014 10:21 PM
To: George Thornton gthorn...@thorntonmostullaw.com; 'elecraft @ 
mailman . qth . net' elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Antenna question

Since the K3 will do the QRP thing down to 100 mw, think about installing 
the vertical above the beam on the mast and gradually try more and more 
power out of the K3 until you start getting some overloading.  At least you 
can find your answer without frying anything and some folks find QRP lots of 
fun.  Maybe you will too!

Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



From: George Thornton gthorn...@thorntonmostullaw.com
To: 'elecraft @ mailman . qth . net' elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 2014 5:36 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Antenna question


This might be a stupid question, but here goes.

I have a small lot.  I currently am using a 3 element Yagi that barely fits 
on the property.  I was thinking about getting a vertical as a second HF 
antenna.  If I put it up it is going to have to be pretty close to the Yagi.

I have a dual receive K3.  If I have both receivers going, one on each 
channel, and I broadcast on one of these antennas, am I in any danger of 
overloading and frying the other receiver?


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Re: [Elecraft] OT ... Coax DC isolator

[WILLIS COOKE]

It is not very hard to do this John.  Just feed the RF in and out with a couple 
of RF capacitors and feed the DC in and out through 1 or 2 MH chokes  I think 
MFJ has them for sale and I know they have them in tje MFJ 927 AMP.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



 From: John Saxon johnbsa...@yahoo.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 2014 12:34 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] OT ... Coax DC isolator
 

Off topic here:

I am experimenting with two different antennas and would like to switch between 
them with a relay.  I am considering getting an isolator that permits placing 
the DC control voltage on the rf coax.  Any thoughts on this?  I have never 
done this before and would appreciate any advice/suggestions.

OH...I am using my K3/10...so maybe not ENTIRELY off topic :-)

--
John 
K5ENQ
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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna question

[WILLIS COOKE]

Since the K3 will do the QRP thing down to 100 mw, think about installing the 
vertical above the beam on the mast and gradually try more and more power out 
of the K3 until you start getting some overloading.  At least you can find your 
answer without frying anything and some folks find QRP lots of fun.  Maybe you 
will too!
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



 From: George Thornton gthorn...@thorntonmostullaw.com
To: 'elecraft @ mailman . qth . net' elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 2014 5:36 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Antenna question
 

This might be a stupid question, but here goes.

I have a small lot.  I currently am using a 3 element Yagi that barely fits on 
the property.  I was thinking about getting a vertical as a second HF antenna.  
If I put it up it is going to have to be pretty close to the Yagi.

I have a dual receive K3.  If I have both receivers going, one on each channel, 
and I broadcast on one of these antennas, am I in any danger of overloading and 
frying the other receiver?


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Re: [Elecraft] KX3: nearby noise post-mortem

[WILLIS COOKE]

You can never completely achieve isolation, but as a practical matter Isolation 
is adequate
when feed through of the offending signal is no longer a problem because the 
circuits
involved can handle the magnitude of interference that is present.  So the 
magnitude is
subjective.  The buzz heard is probably a beat between two oscillators an 
when the 
magnitude is reduced to the point you are not offended by it it is gone.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



 From: Nicklas Johnson n...@n6ol.us
To: Ralf Wilhelm r...@super-deutschland.net 
Cc: elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Monday, February 10, 2014 10:49 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3: nearby noise post-mortem
 

Interesting, and if I may ask a potentially-dumb question, what do we
really mean when we use the word isolation in this context, and how does
it provide the benefit of keeping the buzz out of the detector (or to ask
the question in the reverse, how does the buzz get in, in the absence of
additional isolation)?

   Nick

On 10 February 2014 08:40, Ralf Wilhelm r...@super-deutschland.net wrote:

 Hi Nick,

 Turning on the preamp increases the isolation between the local oscillator
 and the antenna port. I also wasn't sure if my buzz went away when I
 turned on the preamp (I couldn't hear it any more) but I used the spectral
 display of the MixW-Software and the microphone of my laptop to check and I
 found it didn't go completely away (was still visible in the waterfall) but
 got much weaker...

 --
*N6OL*
Saying something doesn't make it true.  Belief in something doesn't make it
real. And if you have to lie to support a position, that position is not
worth supporting.
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Re: [Elecraft] Help setting up K3 w N1MM

[WILLIS COOKE]

Dave, the thing that sometimes gives grief is the operating system.  I have no 
difficulty with the XP operating system, but when I upgraded my computer to WIN 
7 I could not get my serial adapter to work.  The word that I got was that 
there was a chance to get the FTDI chip set to work, but the Prolific chip set 
in the less expensive adapters would not work.  I could not find adapters that 
guaranteed the FTDI chip set so I elected to buy a RS-232 serial card for my 
computer and it has worked flawlessly.  My experience was when WIN 7 was very 
new, so you can probably get a good FTDI driver now for a premium, but not 
un-affordable price.  I would spend a bit more for a real RS-232 card.  I have 
a new WIN 7 lap top and I have not yet approached the problem with it.  If I 
can find a bus to RS-232 device I will buy it and avoid USB conversion all 
together.  The problem seems to be that the USB converters do not convert all 
the connections for full
 featured RS-232.  Probably Elecraft has a solution by now, but they did not 
when I purchased my first WIN 7 computer and I have heard rumors that WIN 8 has 
problems of its own.  
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



 From: Dave Barr record...@verizon.net
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Monday, February 10, 2014 10:39 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Help setting up K3 w N1MM
 

I am looking for advice in how to set up my K3 with N1MM incorporating rig 
control at least to the extent of having the radio control the logging 
frequency and mode shown in N1MM primarily for AFSK RTTY using just the 
Elecraft USB to serial adapter cable (in addition to the audio in/out 
connections to the computer sound card).    I have had no problem setting up 
for Digital and CW without any K3 to N1MM control interaction other than ptt 
and cw keying.  The K3 Utility works fine.  The digital engine is MMTTY. Page 
84 of the KE7X K3 manual suggests that what I want to do is possible.   Help!

Dave, K2YG
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Re: [Elecraft] The Technician Ten Radio

[WILLIS COOKE]

I like the idea of encouraging the Technician Class Licensee to participate on 
ten meter SSB.  I do not like the idea of converting CB radios because the 
person trying to use the converted radio faces even bigger challenges that 
often encourages him/her to give up. Far too many of these converts with little 
technical knowledge and little respect for legalities tries to use one of the 
converted low power radios with the audio gain and thus modulation cranked to 
the max to maximize the watt meter reading finds no one wants to talk with him. 
 The reason no one will talk to this poor former CBer and new Technician Class 
Operator is not that we are discriminating and trying to deny him/her the fun, 
but just that we can't read him because of the distortion and are trying to 
tell him what is happening to him so that he can fix it or get it fixed.  I 
have told more than one unbelieving soul that the reason that all the Extra, 
Advanced and General Class
 licensees are in the Technician band is because we WANT to talk with them and 
there is no one to talk to on the frequencies where Technicians are prohibited 
from operating.  We put on contests that concentrate activity in the bands 
where Technicians are allowed to operate.  The Ten-Ten International loves to 
encourage these people.  We do not encourage them to buy trashed old CB rigs at 
garage sales that are difficult to fix with little technical knowledge and for 
little or no money precisely because we would like to talk with them, encourage 
them and move them toward becoming great hams like almostall of us.  To get a 
ham license without going through a CB phase you need to be as old as I am (73) 
or nearly so and license as a child (15 for me) to remember when 11 meters was 
a ham band.  There are only a few of us codgers that qualify to remember the 11 
meter ham band and way fewer who actually made a ham transmission there. (I did 
not!)
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



 From: Stephen Selberg ke6...@gmail.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Friday, February 7, 2014 12:38 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] The Technician Ten Radio
 

Bill,

I like the idea...but... Always the but... :)

I think the best thing to do, is to really encourage technician licensees
to come out to field day and get a feel of the action. I started off as a
tech at age 13 and happily enjoyed my 50 mhz + privileges. That was until
my first field day with West Valley on Loma Prieta at Charlie's property.
The only thing I could talk about after was how I needed to learn CW to get
my General ticket to work HF. Boy that was a long time ago. When did Cw go
away again? I'm so old hihi. But my point is if we encourage the Technician
hams to come out to field day and see how fun HF can be, and then Elmer
them and help them pass their general class test, the world will be open to
them. And then we can strongly urge them to drink the Elecraft kool-aid
(Wayne can I get a referral discount off a KPA500?). I guess what I'm
saying is why have a radio that will keep them where they're at and cap
their knowledge when it would be better to show them and foster their
learning to improve themselves and gain more knowledge of this wonderful
hobby.


73,

Steve KS6PD


On Thursday, February 6, 2014, Merv Schweigert k...@flex.com wrote:

 No Tom,  I do not as that does not interest me in the slightest,  But I
 have
 seen over the years numerous articles on using CB radios on 10 meters,
 at one time there was a big push and a lot of mods published for them.
 I assume a search of the internet may bring up some of that info.
 It may have been in the old 73 magazines or even CQ.

 I dont mean mods for the free banders either,  these were mods to use the
 radios on 10 meters by licensed hams.

 On Thu, 06 Feb 2014 14:44:40 -1000
 Merv Schweigert k...@flex.com wrote:

  Its what they sell and call a CB radio.    Buy one for a couple bucks,
 a few
 modifications and bingo your set.   Quits working toss it in the trash.
 And if you dont do mods you dont even need a license..

 Merv K9FD/KH6

  Do you have any links to what the mods are?

 73 Tom  kg7cfc


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Re: [Elecraft] VHF/UHF

[WILLIS COOKE]

How big is the check you are willing to send?  I have no inside track on 
pricing, but as an engineer, and estimating the size of the market, and what 
you are asking I don't think that 10 grand would be unreasonable.  Would you 
still want to jump in line at that price, maybe higher?  Or are you looking to 
get one at a bargain price?
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



 From: dbellw...@aol.com dbellw...@aol.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Monday, February 3, 2014 7:22 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] VHF/UHF
 

I'd love to have a K3 size VHF/UHF radio covering 2 Meters through 1296,  
all mode.  When do I send my check?

73, Dave
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Re: [Elecraft] Amsterdam Island, was: KPA500 Clicks

[WILLIS COOKE]

A lot of the world is transmitting half the time in the blind because the LIDs 
that are sending dits and UP UP, etc. cover the DX station even if they can 
hear the DX when the noise subsided a little.  The week end is over and some of 
the masses will have to go back to work.  When the first day is on a week end 
you can expect Bedlam for rare DX, but it will be worth it if I can work FT5ZM. 
 So far, no joy!
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



 From: Fred Jensen k6...@foothill.net
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Sunday, January 26, 2014 10:24 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Amsterdam Island, was: KPA500 Clicks
 

On 1/26/2014 7:46 PM, Bob wrote:
 Strangely, it's about that wide, although a bit sparser, when he's
 transmitting too
 
 No kidding!  It is like 95% of the world is transmitting in the blind.  And
 I'm going to be hearing up, up, up in my sleep for days.

Yep, the pile never really subsides, but he calls someone and 30 signals pop up 
to add to the blind callers.  I'm retired, I can wait a few days, I'm not a Big 
Gun.
 
 The ops do have great ears and great gear.  I'm very impressed with signal
 levels on 30/20/17 so far.

I am stunned!  They're close to the N. Cal antipode, Indian Ocean stations are 
usually ESP for me, these guys are over S9.  And they're picking stations out 
of a huge pile very quickly.  Great ops!

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2014 Cal QSO Party 4-5 Oct 2014
- www.cqp.org


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Re: [Elecraft] How do I generate a Key Down to tune an external 6m amp?

[WILLIS COOKE]

What the man said was that he was going to plug in a bug.  A bug AKA 
semi-automatic key does not make a string of dahs, just automatic dots.  The 
dah position of the finger piece makes dashes manually like a straight key 
except that you push it side ways instead of down.  A proficient operator can 
change from using the dot motion to the right and the dah motion to the left to 
using the dah paddle as a straight key without you noticing.  This is a great 
way to QRS to a slow speed for a new operator without changing keys.  If you 
are using paddles and the internal keyer, you plug it in to the paddle jack.  
The K3 has two jacks instead of the one jack and a switch to turn the keyer on 
and off.  That is what you are missing.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



 From: Bob KD7YZ kd...@denstarfarm.us
To: K3 List elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Friday, January 17, 2014 10:44 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] How do I generate a Key Down to tune an external 6m 
amp?
 

Willis 'Cookie' said:

 The easy way is to hold the dash on the bug.

unless I am missing something in Setup, I do not see how to tell the K3
that I want manual dashes and string-dots. There is no setup for the
keyer. So obviously if I short out the dash side, of the Vibroplex
paddle, I get dashes. Many of them.

And that is my question. How do I get a solid key-down, where the PTT IS
activated, and RF flows?

Seems right simple ,but my two choices here do not work.
Use the keyer, push the PTT foot-switch, and I get a nice string of dots
or dashes, as all of us expect.

Push/HOLD the XMIT button and the PTT output of the K3 seems to not
engage.

Where, on the K3, would one pug in a regular old straight-key, and
expect it to work as a regular old straight-key?

The answer to that would solve my Sequencer problem for tuning w/o
frying anything in the LNA chain.
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Re: [Elecraft] new K3 owner

[WILLIS COOKE]

Be sure you have good tools!.  Buy a new, high quality #1 Phillips Screw Driver 
and use it.  Round up all the Reed and Prince cheap screwdrivers that you 
bought at the bargain store and preferably throw them away, if not keep them 
with the punches, that is all they are good for.  Buy a static mat, read the 
instructions and use it.  Read the construction manual from front to back.  If 
you don't understand them, read them again and again until you do.  If you 
still don't understand them, get help until you do.  Before you do anything 
read the appropriate part again so you really know what to do.  Follow the 
instructions in the order the manual prescribes and be sure you understand each 
step.  When you need to plug in a part, make sure that you have the right plug 
and socket then use as much force as required to seat the plug fully.  When 
assembling something, if it will not go, loosen some screws so you can move it 
a little then be sure to
 tighten them before you go on.  There is no magic formula, just be careful and 
forget the hi-hi until you are sending Morse.  It is easy, but every step is 
important and must be done correctly.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



 From: Carl Yaffey cyaf...@gmail.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Friday, January 17, 2014 3:11 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] new K3 owner
 

Hi. I’ve just ordered a K3 kit. Any suggestions for putting it together 
properly? Yes, I know to be very careful - hi hi.
73,
Carl Yaffey  K8NU
Banjo, guitar, bass, mandolin, dobro. 
recording studio.
cyaffeyno_s...@gmail.com 
614 268 6353, Columbus OH
http://www.carl-yaffey.com
http://www.grassahol.com







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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Remote activation of KAT500 via HRD

[WILLIS COOKE]

The best place to look is the HRD forum.  That is where the HRD experts gather.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



 From: Bill W bw39...@yahoo.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Thursday, January 16, 2014 8:50 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 - Remote activation of KAT500 via HRD
 

Hi All,
I have a question to ask this group as perhaps someone already has the
answer. The situation is as follows. I use HRD (Ham Radio Deluxe) to run my
K line (K3, P3, KPA500, KAT500) remotely once in a while. The “Tune” button
on the HRD's simulated Radio Face works fine in initiating the tune cycle
for the K3 internal ATU. However, when the internal ATU is bypassed, it will
not initiate the tune cycle for the KAT500. I am sure what is needed is a
code line change in the HRD code sequence for the Tune” button but I have
no idea where to look for the appropriate sequence to use. I think I found
where to make the change in HRD.
Any insight would be appreciated.
73,
Bill – W0BBI




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Re: [Elecraft] How do I generate a Key Down to tune an external 6m amp?

[WILLIS COOKE]

The easy way is to hold the dash on the bug.  If you want to use a straight key 
just wire it across the terminals on the bug.  You don't need but one key 
input.  The way the old telegraphers used a bug was to insert the flat 
connector between the base and the copper/brass strip that connects to the 
contact on the straight key and the straight key was permanently bolted to the 
desk and wired to the telegraph line.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



 From: Bob KD7YZ kd...@denstarfarm.us
To: K3 List elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Wednesday, January 15, 2014 8:13 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] How do I generate a Key Down to tune an external 6m amp?
 

My Old viproplex Bug does the cw for me and there seems to not be an
available jack for an old straight key.
I have configured some settings in order to keep me form applying power
before a PTT action closes a sequencer.

Thus I seem to have made it so that pressing Xmit or hold-xmit/Tune will
NOT issue a PTT action however will send out RF. This does not close
PTT anywhere so the Sequencer does bot close the relay on the PA and I
can't rune it up.

I can push the foot-switch and the relays all close. However, there is
no steady RF. Just what I can make in dots or dashes

Is there a way to get key-down WITH a closed PTT so external 6m PA comes on?


-- 

Bob KD7YZ
http://www.qrz.com/db/KD7YZ
www.denstarfarm.us/LGD
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Re: [Elecraft] {OT} WW2DEM

[WILLIS COOKE]

I did the same for USS Stewart with a TS-440 but they changed management and 
threw me out along with the TS-440.  I think they wanted me to modify the TBL 
to a modern SSB Transceiver or prove that TS-440s were used by the US Navy in 
WW2.  I am pretty sure that even the Japanese Navy did not have them in WW2 
because Western Electric did not invent the transistor until 1948.  I am also 
sure that if the Japanese had TS-440s in WW2 they would not have been so kind 
as to sell them to the US Navy.   As I have read (I was around, but at 4 was 
not yet a ham) the Japanese were downright hostile to the US Navy during the 
1941 to 1945 years.

The Stewart would like to sail in formation with Slater these days, but it is 
stuck in the Pelican Island mud and would probably leak, although it floated 
briefly during the Hurricane Ike storm surge.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



 From: Tony Castellano tcaste...@optonline.net
To: stan levandowski sjl...@optonline.net; Elecraft 
Elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Thursday, January 9, 2014 8:43 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] {OT} WW2DEM
 

One thing Stan neglected to mention is that he donated his K2.

Thank you Stan and 73.

Tony Castellano W1ZMB
tcaste...@optonline.net
Hopewell Junction, NY
RV-6
N401TC

- Original Message - From: stan levandowski sjl...@optonline.net
To: Elecraft Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, January 08, 2014 6:04 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] {OT} WW2DEM


 For those with interest:
 
 The museum ship USS SLATER in Albany, NY is the very last of 563 destroyer 
 escorts built during World War II that remains afloat in America. It's been 
 restored to 1945 condition and represents a real piece of history.
 
 
 For years, the amateur station has limped along with 30 year old technology. 
 
 Today, WW2DEM is on-the-air with its new All-American-made 100 watt fully 
 optioned K2. Many thanks to Dale Putnam WC7S who built up the K2/100 plus 
 options for only the cost of shipping, to Tony Baleno who built and donated a 
 beautiful ZN-9 paddle and to Ken WB2ART who provided attractive bezel 
 personalization.
 
 
 The ship is on the air most Saturdays (daytime) on 7062 CW; 7262 SSB or 14062 
 CW; 14262 SSB 
 
 Only the ship's vintage maritime antennas are used. They consist of 70 and 80 
 foot wire verticals and a 100' long wire plus a 190' long wire that runs 
 towards the fantail and then back up to the main mast. Matching is easily 
 accomplished with the KAT2.
 
 
 There is a QRZ page entry for WW2DEM with QSL info, etc.
 
 
 73, Stan WB2LQF
 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] CW power output and remote tuners

[WILLIS COOKE]

Kurt, 20 to 30 feet of RG-213 will give you an acceptable loss even on 6 meters 
and almost none on the lower bands.  I have over 200 feet of RG-213 feeding my 
SteppIR and it works pretty well on 6 meters.  I feed my L with about 125 feet 
of RG-8X and it works very well on 160 and 80.  Study the difference between a 
balun and an unun.  You feed a balanced antenna with a balun (balanced antenna 
to unbalanced coax feed) and an unbalanced antenna with an unun or unbalanced 
to unbalanced.  Neither is a magic device and both are just transformers.  
Vendors enclose them in PVC to keep you from seeing what is really there.  All 
you really need to feed an inverted L is a choke made from six to eight turn 
coil of coax at the feed point of the antenna to keep the current off the 
outside of the shield.  Buy an ARRL Antenna Handbook and study it.  Don't try 
to do it all before you build your first antenna as it will take too long, but 
it is chock full of
 good information that you can spend a lifetime absorbing.  Just read about 
your first antenna, build it, and make it work.  You can use a tree if you have 
a tall one or the pole, but the tree will be easier and much less expensive so 
start with the tree of you can.  Fifty feet is tall enough to give you good 
results on 160 and better results on the other bands.  I will stay with my 
recommendation to forget the external tuner and stay with the K3  tuner.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke 
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



 From: Mini Builder kiminicoop...@yahoo.com
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Saturday, December 21, 2013 12:06 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] CW power output and remote tuners
 

Thanks for all the input!

Sorry, I misspoke about grounding - yes, I know that it's not really ground, 
but a grid against which the signal is balanced. It's very promising to hear 
that the K3's internal tuner will work, as it's less money and one less thing 
to deal with. Haven't decided where the antenna will go, but it'll probably be 
20-30 feet from the K3, using RG-8U. Also haven't decided whether to string up 
wire off a tree, or build a flag pole, stringing the horizontal wire off the 
top. Going that route would allow around a 50-ft vertical section without being 
too obvious.

FWIW, the name Mini Builder is getting auto-appended by Yahoo; I may change 
accounts to fix that. It comes from me having built several cars from scratch - 
you can waste hours at http://www.kimini.com/, and http://www.midlana.com/, but 
I know this isn't the place for that.



On Friday, December 20, 2013 9:29 PM, Fred Jensen k6...@foothill.net wrote:
  
On 12/20/2013 8:15 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
 1) A good ground is only important when the length is significantly
 less than 1/2 wavelength.  Otherwise the impedance at the feed point
 will be relatively high, meaning a ground is needed only to keep the
 rig from floating to a problematic RF potential as I explained in my
 first post.

Ron is correct, a half-wave is *nearly* insensitive to grounding [i.e. 
radial field].  However, strangely enough, feeding an EFHW, it really 
helps to have a radial hanging off the coax shield at the balun/xfmr at 
the antenna ... about 6in [15cm] long on 20m.  Learned this from EZNEC 
and verified it in the real universe.

 2) You want adequate distance between you and the radiator to comply
 with the FCC RF exposure guidelines. You need spacing at the higher
 frequencies. There are a variety of guidelines for that, but I always
 use 2 meters at 30 MHz. It's less on the lower frequency bands.

Sadly, RF exposure may be the least of your worries if you're close to 
the antenna.  I have a 3 pipe that runs vertically from a 1 ft sq 
utility box in the wall, opens under the desk and in the wall outside in 
the carport, weather head on the top.  It carries all my coax up and to 
the messenger to the tower.  I decided to mount a GAP Titan vertical on 
the pipe just below the weatherhead.  The antenna works great ... as an 
antenna ... but it is 12ft over my head in the shack.

All seems well in the shack on 40 and 30m.  Alas, on 20 and above, at 
500W, everything electronic in the shack either forgets everything it 
ever knew, or goes totally berserk.  Still working on ferrite therapy.

Don't know about the exposure issue [math major, not biomed], but in the 
late 50's/early 60's [late teens/very early 20's] working at the TV 
station to support myself in college, I got $50 twice a year to climb 
the tower [~400ft] and replace the clearance lamps which was an FAA 
requirement.  Station had the gear, they had it inspected twice a year 
by the mfr, they sent me to climbing school at PGE [power company], I 
climbed inside the tower on a ladder, and had a fall arrester on the 
steel cable down the center.  A work-out to the top, but I was really 
young and it wasn't exactly the most dangerous thing I'd ever do.

I climbed in the middle 

Re: [Elecraft] CW power output and remote tuners

[WILLIS COOKE]

Kurt, I have a K3 with tuner and amp.  I have a 65 foot tower with a 3 element 
SteppIR antenna.  Before Hurricane Ike I installed an inverted L with a 
homemade 80 meter trap.  The tower supports the trap and the 80 meter portion 
runs from a ground stake with 5 50 foot long radials.  Ike broke all the 
elements off my beam and while I had the beam down for repair I used the 
inverted L on all bands, 160 through 6 with a RG8X feed about 125 feet long and 
the internal tuner on the K3.  I have also used the K3 with internal tuner to 
tune a 106 foot long wire on a submarine on all bands.  I recommend you buy the 
K3 with the amp and tuner and skip the remote tuner.  Remember, the vertical 
part of the inverted L does nearly all the work and the horizontal part 
contributes very little, so make the vertical part of the wire as long as you 
can.  With 50 or 60 foot vertical it will be a good dx antenna.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke 
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



 From: Mini Builder kiminicoop...@yahoo.com
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Friday, December 20, 2013 8:44 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] CW power output and remote tuners
 

Background:
I got into ham radio back in the 1970s, getting my
license at age 12, then life moved on and my license expired. Recently, going
through my dad’s stuff after he passed away, I found his license, which brought
back many fond memories, so I decided to get back into it.
 
Now:
I just passed the Technician and General test (no call sign
yet) and have been looking at the state of the art - HOLY SMOKES have things
changed! Anyhow, after a lot of research, I’ve decided to get a K3, but before
that, I need an antenna. The K3 (with amp) outputs 100W. I’m pretty sure
that I’m going with an inverted-L antenna, which requires a remote antenna
tuner at its base. One promising remote tuner
is the SG-230, but it can only handle “80
watts continuous.” My question: In CW mode, how much power does the K3
output? (assuming worst-case key down 100%).
 
If the answer is “100W”, what remote tuner are you guys
using with inverted-Lsand your K3s? Yes, I know that the K3 can have a built-in 
tuner, but I
don’t think it can work with an
inverted-L.
 
Kurt – currently call-sign-less, but who was once WB6DSW.

(I understand about keeping posts short, but this is my intro post. Follow-ons 
will be shorter :)
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