Re: Stus-List Winch grease

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Ditto – I use 10-30W oil sparingly on pawls.  I find the grease only 
occasionally needs more added each year

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of ALAN BERGEN 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, November 03, 2018 11:01 PM
To: C
Cc: ALAN BERGEN
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winch grease

 

I use the Lewmar grease. Use it sparingly. I do all winches (ten) on my boat 
every year, and a tube of Lewmar grease lasts me for years.  




Alan Bergen

35 Mk III Thirsty

Rose City YC

Portland, OR

 

 

On Sat, Nov 3, 2018 at 6:45 PM, Chris Graham via CnC-List 
 wrote:

I’m performing maintenance on my Barient 18 winches and was wondering if there 
was a preferred machine oil and grease? The Lewmar grease seems expensive and 
I’d have to order it. 

 

Chris 

Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone 

 


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https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray 

 
=DwICAg=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=SWxMNOceB1XZ6VUyM-5XxvtBtPl7wIDiN4bFWMGGEkc=1u-YRU7YCKkZhE3Ijpi-A-dJJDFicpUOp_2f9IRIXrs=



 

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Stus-List Standard Horizon instruments

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Anyone have an old 100 series instrument hanging around?  The square ones
approx 4"x4".  Does not have to be operational, can be wind, depth or speed.
I need to replace a piece of the receiver(?) body  (don't ask why..)

 

TIA

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

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Re: Stus-List years a C owner

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

We have owned Legacy for 19 years.  One of the last ones of the model built.
We are second owners.  Originally fresh water Lake Erie Rochester NY.  Just
a well designed, well built very handsome boat

John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 C 34
Noank, CT



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Howard
and Skippy via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2018 9:37 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Howard and Skippy
Subject: Stus-List years a C owner

Hello Al,
I have a question for the list.
How many of you have owned your current C yacht for 5 years or longer.

I bought Knot Again in 1993 and have owned her for 25 years.
Howard Paul, 35-3


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Stus-List Stuck sail bag zippers

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Just reporting back I soaked the zipper in vinegar for a few days.  Need to
replace handle but zipper works like a charm.  Many thanks for the tip

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

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Stus-List Sail bag zippers

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Seems the zipper on one of my sail bags is frozen in position.  Metal
fixture with zipper of plastic teeth. Have tried soaking inn soapy water,
oil, spray lubricant all to no avail.  Any ideas??

 

TIA

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Raising the boom?

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Hi Nathan

 

On our 34, there is a reason why the head is a foot or so below the top; of the 
mast.  It is to provide room for the sail headboard to fit between the aft edge 
of the mast and the backstay.  Keep that in mind as you are thinking of 
altering things

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Nathan Post 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2018 11:12 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Nathan Post
Subject: Re: Stus-List Raising the boom?

 

Thanks for all the great feedback on this.  On my boat as with some of the 
others the goose neck is attached with a bunch of machine screws - not welded 
so I expect it should be straight forward to move it up - simply drill and tap 
new holes in the mast.  I could put some screws in the old holes to "fill" 
them.   Thinking about height of the boom for flaking/covering the sail and 
attaching the halyard to the head are important considerations - I'll make a 
few measurements/trials and see how much higher makes sense to go based on 
that.  Other boats I have sailed on have had the top batten catch on the back 
stay and while annoying there are ways to shake it loose as suggested so not 
that big a deal to me (not planning on any short course racing with lots of 
tacks).  Raising the clew helps with cockpit clearance, but not with vang angle 
so that is a consideration and if just raising the clue that would also mean 
installing new reef points in the sail if we wanted to keep the same angle when 
reefed so raising the gooseneck seems to be the way to go in my case. 

 

Thanks!

 

Nathan

S/V Wisper
1981 C 34
Lynn, MA 

 

On Tue, Aug 7, 2018 at 10:42 AM Randy Stafford  
wrote:

Hi Nathan,

A previous owner raised the boom on my 30-1 by exactly one foot, comparing 
former and current gooseneck bracket hole patterns on the mast, probably as a 
safety and comfort choice.  Later HINs than mine (I have hull #7) came from the 
factory with that modification - the boom a foot higher than on the early HINs.

Like Dennis, I have no way of comparing boat feel before and after.  But I have 
no complaints about the way my boat sails.  I’m 6’2” and the boom just clears 
my head on tacks and gybes, with the vang set for a level boom.  I added a vang 
and it forms a 30-60-90 triangle or better (wouldn’t have been possible with a 
lower boom).  Standing on the cabintop I have no problem reaching the headboard 
to shackle the halyard or put on / take off the sail cover.

My previous mainsail always looked short in the foot to me.  I wondered if the 
previous owner who raised the boom cut off the bottom 12” of the sail resulting 
in a shorter foot.  This year I got a new mainsail and made the foot as long as 
possible given the boom-end, screw-drive outhaul system on the original 30-1 
roller-reefing boom.  I have the occasional problem with the top batten 
catching the backstay in light wind, but in those conditions I have the 
backstay adjusted loose and can just jiggle the backstay to let the batten pass.

Best Regards,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C 30-1 #7
Ken Caryl, CO

> On Aug 7, 2018, at 6:32 AM, Nathan Post via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> All,
> 
> Having sailed our 1981 C 34 a few times and while looking into having a 
> dodger and bimini made for her I am considering  raising the boom about 8 to 
> 10 inches. Good idea or bad idea?  Has anyone done this on their boat?
> 
> We are only planning on cruising, not racing. The current full batten 
> mainsail (which is probably a used replacement as the sail number on it 
> doesn’t correspond to the boat) falls well short of the masthead when fully 
> raised and the head is about 18 inches below of the top of the track so there 
> is plenty of room up there without recutting it.  At its current height the 
> boom is about eye level for me when standing and my wife bumps her head if 
> she is not careful - getting it above head height would be nice for comfort 
> and would also allow the dodger to be a bit higher.
> 
> I know raising the main higher will hurt performance a bit in windy 
> conditions, but I am not sure how much it will degrade the handling or 
> balance.  It will also change the main sheet angle a bit and reduce the 
> effectiveness of the cabin top traveler but with installing a new vang I 
> don’t think that will be so important.  However, I love how well balanced the 
> boat is - she sails beautifully - so I don’t want to mess that up.
> 
> Thoughts?
> Thanks,
> Nathan 
> 
> S/V Wisper
> 1981 C 34
> Lynn, MA
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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every 

Re: Stus-List Wisper has launched!

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Congratulations Nathan.  We have owned our 34 for 20 years and love it.  It 
sails like a dream.  Regarding the rudder, we rebuilt ours and found the foam 
was very degraded.  New foam, new skin and all is well.  Of note is the design 
is solid glass top, bottom, leading and trailing edge.  The glass is about 3 
inches thick and more at the top.  You can easily ascertain by tapping the 
rudder.  The bottom has a small section about half way fore/aft where there is 
no solid glass just the skin to facilitate a drain hole.

John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 C 34
Noank, CT

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Nathan Post 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, July 28, 2018 2:08 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Nathan Post
Subject: Stus-List Wisper has launched!

Hi All,

We finally have Wisper - our 1981 C 34 CB we purchased in May in the water!  
Excited to take her for a first sail tomorrow from Scituate up to Lynn MA where 
we will be keeping her this season.  She was left on the hard by previously 
owner for two years so lots of cleaning and lots of projects completed, and of 
course still more to do.  A few highlights on where we are at:

Thanks to everyone for the feedback previously on the rudder - after drilling 
holes and draining I determined that it was definitely still solid and that the 
best thing to do was leave it as is - sealed up the holes with Thixo epoxy and 
then some barrier coat.  This fall when she is pulled I think I’ll install a 
couple of plugs to make draining easier in the future since keeping the water 
out doesn’t sound like a realistic possibility in the long run.

Refinished the cabin sole, replaced the removing ceiling panels with 3/16” 
Starboard.  Had the sails cleaned and mended.  Replaced the glow plug solenoid 
which had partially failed - the glow plugs were still getting power, but the 
electric fuel pump which it also runs was not.  Replaced the waste hoses and 
rebuilt the head.

I have also been following the bilge pump discussion and decided to install a 
primary 3.5 gal/min Whale diagram pump with a large low profile screen inlet 
and WaterWitch in addition to the rule 1500 with rule float switch and the hand 
pump.

Had New England Propeller rebuild the folding 2 blade prop at their strong 
recommendation to reduce slop and make the blade angles symmetric again - it 
took Ron a longer than I had hoped to complete it and was the main delay in 
getting launched the last few weeks, but it came out really nice so I think it 
was well worth doing.  Put the shaft back in with a new PSS shaft seal and new 
spit coupling (fit and faced by New England Prop as well) and everything went 
together smoothly.

We seem to have a very slow leak at or around one of the through hulls (the 
waste exit which we likely will not be using at all since we will be staying 
close to shore for now and getting pump outs), even after tightening the valve 
as much as I dared.  Probably only about a teaspoon or so an hour but if I dry 
the area off around it, it will get wet again.  Any suggestions?  Thinking of 
just leaving it that way for this season until we pull her for the fall.

Still to be done: look into the propane system and getting that working again - 
probably need a new solenoid but I haven’t looked into that yet.  Connect the 
new hot water heater.  Replace the faucets  in the head and galley, add a 
shower gray water pump, rig a new vang (the boat didn’t come with one), and 
perhaps have a dogger and bimini built for her.  Plus lots of little 
maintenance, teak refinishing, etc.

Looking to get some new propane tanks (11 lb tall version) as the ones she came 
with were very rusty.  Does anyone make a stainless steel version?  I might go 
aluminum I suppose if I can find one the right size and shape.

It would be fun to make it to the north east coast rendezvous at some point, 
but unfortunately we already have plans for that weekend this year and aren’t 
set up for cruising that far quite yet.  Maybe next year!

Nathan Post
S/V Whisper
1981 C 34
Lynn, MA
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Re: Stus-List Catharsis message

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Hi David

 

So sorry to hear of your misadventure.  Best part is no one was injured and 
hopefully insurance will fix the boat.  Have been there and done that and can 
only say skipper lack of focus or imprudence were the cause.  Am intimately 
familiar with Horseshoe Reef and know many a vessel that has discovered its 
exact location.  Sounds like the RC established the finish line in its normal 
location so nothing new there.

 

Best of luck moving forward

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, July 16, 2018 11:18 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Cc: David Knecht
Subject: Stus-List Catharsis message

 

It is a sad morning here and I need some help to drag me out of my depression.  
This list is my support group, advisers, experts and therapists.  Or maybe you 
will kick my butt for being an idiot and that could help as well.  Aries had a 
serious grounding on a reef on Saturday and is currently awaiting insurance to 
start assessing the situation.  We were barely towed off the reef by SeaTow and 
the boat is on the hard at a local marina.  The damage is worse than I had 
hoped and better than it could have been.  When they were able to pull us off 
the lip of the reef (tide going out, getting desperate) the rudder hit the reef 
and bent the shaft, damaged the hull around the shaft and pushed the rear tip 
of the rudder up through the hull.The bottom of the wing keel is also 
chewed up from grinding on the reef.  That sound of hull grinding over rock is 
now forever seared into my brain.  South Shore yachts actually lists the rudder 
on their site (thanks to the list for making me aware of their C parts), and 
I am hoping there is nothing else damaged that was not obvious.  No one was 
hurt, except my pride and confidence.  Leaving the marina, I now have an 
appreciation for the emotions of people who abandon their floating homes at 
sea.  At least I will hopefully get mine back.

 

I have gone over the incident a thousand times trying to understand what 
happened and how I could have prevented it.  I thought I was hyperaware of all 
the hazards in the Fishers Island Sound area and swore that I would never 
ground the boat again after an incident with an unmarked reef during a race a 
few years ago.  I try to race with a priority of safety, fun and speed, in that 
order.  I almost always have crew who are not sailors other than racing with 
me, which I enjoy, but takes some of my focus away from other things.  We had 
spent the day in a long race all over Fishers Island sound.  It was blowing 15+ 
and we had worked very hard to get around the course and the last leg was a 
straight downwind sprint to the finish heading due North toward the CT coast.  
With 3 inexperienced crew I was happy that we were in second place in our class 
and focused on getting to the line.  We crossed the line, then jibed over to 
head back west to parallel the coast to our home port of New London and had 
just taken a deep breath, congratulated the crew when we hit the reef.  It 
turns out that the Race Committee had set the finish line inshore and just East 
of the single offshore buoy marking Horseshoe Reef.  I never saw (or 
recognized) the buoy because it was behind the mainsail as we approached the 
finish and I was looking for the finish line, not other buoys.  By the time we 
jibed, it was essentially over my shoulder.  I did not see the buoy until I 
looked around when we hit the reef and realized where we were.  A hundred yards 
inshore and we would have been fine and a hundred yards offshore and we would 
have seen the buoy and passed the correct side of it.  I think the Race 
Committee deserves some part of the blame for setting the finish line in a 
dangerous location but certainly my lack of awareness of where I was relative 
to dangers (of which there are many in Fishers Island Sound) was the major 
factor.  If I had looked carefully at the chart at any point, I presume I would 
have recognized the danger of the finishing area, but we were closely following 
the lead boat and so our location was not an issue until we finished. I was in 
familiar waters but I just did not recognize precisely where I was in familiar 
waters.  The other boats near us turned East while we turned West so we were 
not following anyone after the turn.  

 

If anyone has any suggestions, comments or strategies to help prevent this, I 
am all ears.  A moments inattention is all it took and it makes me concerned 
about several factors- age, racing with non-sailor crew, racing in general.   
In our Wednesday night races, we race around the same marks every week, and it 
has taken time, but I now think I know every hazard and am aware of where we 
are relative to them while also keeping on top of the boat and crew.  This was 
an area I have sailed in many times but rarely race there.  Also in terms of 
the 

Stus-List Intermittent starting Yanmar 3GM

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

There was a thread some time ago about intermittent starting of Yanmar engines. 
 Our OEM Yanmar 3GM ( now 36 years old) works just fine but is occasionally 
exhibiting symptoms where the starter clicks when I push the button for a few 
tries without turning over.  The starter then turns over after 2 or 3 clicks, 
engine starts right up and all is well.  Batteries are fine, cranking speed is 
fine.  Seems like corrosion in the button or wiring??  Can someone point me to 
the thread or advise the consensus of the fix?

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

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Re: Stus-List Standard Horizon 150 boat speed

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Just to clarify we are trying to locate the bulkhead unit for this 4x4 square 
boat speed instrument to replace ours.  These have been out of manufacture for 
over 10 years now and are only available as used and infrequently at that.  If 
anyone has one they are not using, we would appreciate hearing from you

 

Many thanks

 

John & Maryann

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John and 
Maryann Read via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2018 8:02 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John and Maryann Read
Subject: Stus-List Standard Horizon 150 boat speed

 

Anyone have one of these hanging around?  Went to calibrate ours and the button 
is not functional

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

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Stus-List Standard Horizon 150 boat speed

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Anyone have one of these hanging around?  Went to calibrate ours and the button 
is not functional

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

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Re: Stus-List Going to the DARK SIDE

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

HI Rob

 

Best of luck with the new boat.  Lots of folks have the Catalina and enjoy them 
much so hope your luck is the same.  Are you staying at Fort Rachel?  Is 
Hanuman staying in the area?

 

Cheers

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert 
Gallagher via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2018 9:47 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Robert Gallagher
Subject: Stus-List Going to the DARK SIDE

 

Sadly, Hanuman is sold.  The good news is that the new owner is a friend.  It 
came as an odd coincidence that just after the boat came off the market, a 
friend decided he wanted finalize the purchase towards the end of the summer.

 

In the mean time I have a accepted offer on a 
Ca...CaCaCata...l.Catalina..Catali.   I can’t say it here.  
It’s 36 ft long and has a transom fat enough to drive a VW through.  

 

The 30MKII was getting to cramped.  I tried like hell to find a 34+ or 37+ but 
it was not to be.

 

I’m not leaving here, I’ll stick around. light your flamethrowers and burn 
away .or set your phasers to stun if ed was to have his way. 

 

Rob

HANUMAN 30MKII 

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Re: Stus-List 3GMF knocking sound

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Have Yanmar 3GM and Kanzaki transmission.  Had similar issue of only one blade 
opening after sailing, boat shaking and continuing problem after trying varying 
speeds, reverse / forward etc.  Worked fine if starting from dead stop.  Not 
excessive wear on blade pins.  In our case turned out to be worn / polished 
cones in transmission.  Seems an earlier rebuild was not done correctly, 
resulting in shaft not getting fully engaged.  Diagnosed by watching prop shaft 
as crew engaged in gear at idle, then slowly increase throttle.  Shaft rpm’s 
did not increase corresponding to engine.  Would occasionally “grab” when 
higher engine rpm’s were applied.  Pulled transmission (not that hard), sent to 
expert on Yanmar / Kanzaki transmissions (VERY important), had the unit back in 
a week, reinstalled all is well.  Some pointers picked up along the way.  1) In 
our case the fitting attaching the shifting cable to the shift lever on the 
transmission is a double spring push/pull fitting which must be adjusted so 
when in either forward or reverse there is additional movement possible on the 
binnacle.  We attach the fitting to the inner hole of the lever.  Lubricating 
spring is normal maintenance each year.  2)  The mounts are OK provided you can 
get a finger between the base and top plates.  3)  Check alignment

 

Hope this helps

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Paxton 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2018 10:46 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Kevin Paxton
Subject: Re: Stus-List 3GMF knocking sound

 

Pretty sure it's a martec, folding 2-blade. I try to power up and it vibrates 
like crazy. I power down to try and get it to reset so that I don't damage 
anything with it vibrating so bad. Then I try again. If I rotate the shaft 
manually I can hear each blade folding open but for some reason it is tough to 
open it after sailing for a bit. 

 

Coming out of the slip it opens without a problem.

 

The sounds came this time though while already under power and the prop was 
open. 

On Sun, May 27, 2018, 10:27 AM Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
 wrote:

I’m curious. What kind of prop do you have that requires you to slow down to 
get it to open. Most folding ones ask for more speed to get the blades to open. 
Non opening would produce lots of vibration, which would get lots of noise as 
the engine bounces around on (particularly) old motor mounts. Shake the motor.

 

Gary

Flex-o-fold geared

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Kevin Paxton via 
CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, May 26, 2018 8:05 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Kevin Paxton 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 3GMF knocking sound

 

Yea I did that today and started it up and it sounded fine. However I didn't 
put it in gear or take it out of the slip. The racor was full and I didn't see 
any water in it either.

 

Now it does vibrate pretty good under operation. I looked at the engine mounts 
though and none seemed to be cracked or anything. What should the mounts 
look/feel like?  How much vibration while running should it have? 

On Sat, May 26, 2018, 6:50 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
wrote:

Kevin, 

 

Fill the fuel tank with 6 to 10 gallons of fresh fuel, try it out, and get back 
to us.  Check your racor filter for air.  Low fuel/air in the line/water in the 
line can all cause rough operation.  These Yanmars have a lot of backlash in 
the engine and when you get rough operations the clutch plate springs can bang. 
 If you have a loose/broken/soft engine mount it can allow the engine to bang 
around pretty good too.

 

Josh Muckley 

S/V Sea Hawk 

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD

 

 

On Sat, May 26, 2018, 2:30 PM Kevin Paxton via CnC-List  
wrote:

Hey Everyone,

 

Well we were lucky enough to be able to take out our 34 this past Wednesday for 
the Blue Angels show in Annapolis. On our way back our Yanmar 3GMF would 
occasionally make a knocking sound. I'm hoping you guys might know what could 
have caused it.

 

When it happened:

* We were about to enter into the mouth of the Magothy and I was taking down 
the main. My wife had the helm and yelled up saying that something didn't sound 
right with the engine. She throttled down and when I got back everything 
sounded ok. She said that it sounded like it was going to die. Like it was 
running out of fuel.

* We kept it running slowly for a bit without issue. Then I tried to speed us 
up again. After about 5-10 mins it started making the noise again. To me it 
sounded like a loud knocking or banging sound. I immediately reduced power 
again and it immediately went away.

 

Conditions:

* At the time it started occurring we had about 1/8 of a tank of fuel.

* Heavy, choppy waves for a large portion of our trip due to lots of power 
boats. However, at the time it occurred, seas were calm.

* 

Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Worst case might be to remove the seacocks, then you can adequately heat them 
etc to disassemble and rebuild??

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Matti Airas 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2018 4:38 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matti Airas
Subject: Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

 

Hi,

 

I'd replace the seacocks. Even if you'd never use them in regular conditions, 
you're much better off if, say, a hose breaks and you need to contain the leak.

 

Cheers,

 

Matti

 

On Thu, 24 May 2018 at 07:43, Dan via CnC-List  wrote:

I'm on the hard. I have these two giant bronze seacocks for my cockpit drain 
hoses.

 

photos on google drive:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=12TWUN1oiyiACR0IvaBKlEo2HqdzPMmqY

 

I have no clue how old they are but they are totally seized in the open 
position. I've tried WD-40, a heat gun and a rubber mallet but can't get them 
to budge.

 

My question is should I rip these out and put in some sort of replacement or 
should I just leave them. When will I ever want to close seacocks to the 
cockpit drains?

Clearly the previous owner was not in the habit of closing these.

 

What should I do?

 

Dan

Breakaweigh

C

Halifax, NS

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Hillerange Oven Parts

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Had similar issues with our stove back in 1999.  Corresponded with Seaward 
Products, 3721 Capital Ave, Whittier, CA 90601562-699-7997.  Turns out the 
thermostat assembly was the issue.  Cannot locate the invoice, but believe we 
purchased from them, installed and all is well.

 

Hope this helps

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Thomas 
Perison via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, May 14, 2018 8:18 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Thomas Perison; DMcMillan
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hillerange Oven Parts

 

Yes interested to hear any thoughts - mine acts the same !

Tom

Therapy, 29 MKII

Solomons Island, MD 

Sent from my iPhone


On May 14, 2018, at 2:45 PM, DMcMillan via CnC-List  
wrote:

Does anyone know of a source for Hillerange parts other than Sure Marine in 
Seattle?   The oven will light but goes out after a few minutes even with the 
thermostat at 500.  It will go out even quicker with the thermostat turned 
down, so I expect it is the regulator.   Any suggestions would be appreciated!

 

Thanks,

Dennis McMillan

Andante, C 34 (1981)

Victoria BC

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Re: Stus-List Stuffing box material

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

I repacked our 1 inch shaft with 3 strands of 3/16, cuts 180 degrees opposed
to each other.  Have not splashed yet but snugging the nut seems good

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ainslie
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, May 11, 2018 6:33 AM
To: 'bwhitmore'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ainslie
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stuffing box material

 

Thanks for the replies. What about the sizing question: ¼” vs 3/16” material
for a 1” shaft? What have others used?

Jason Ainslie, Spirit

1984 C 35-3

Bayfield, ON

 

 

  _  

From: bwhitmore [mailto:bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net] 
Sent: May-10-18 11:33 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ainslie
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stuffing box material

 

I've only put 3 rings in before, with the cuts for each ring equidistant
from one another.  You should be fine.

 

Bruce Whitmore 

 

 

 

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

 

 Original message 

From: Ainslie via CnC-List  

Date: 5/10/18 8:47 PM (GMT-05:00) 

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Cc: Ainslie  

Subject: Stus-List Stuffing box material 

 

Hello,

The stuffing box on my 35 Mk 3 had a steady drip last fall, so I repacked it
recently. According to my callipers, I could use ¼” flax in the gland nut
(1” shaft). This seemed to pack in easily enough, but I was only able to get
three rings in and still have enough threads on the nut. However, I had
pulled four rings out! There’s no way I could get four of these quarter-inch
rings in. My question: have I made a mistake – should I have used 3/16”
material? As I mentioned, the packing seemed to fit into the gland fairly
easy with just finger-pushing, but could this overheat the shaft, and are
three rings enough? Launch is next Wednesday, so I’d have to move quickly if
I need to downsize it to 3/16”. Thanks!

 

Jason Ainslie, Spirit

1984 C 35-3

Bayfield, ON

 


 
 Image removed by sender.

Virus-free.
 www.avg.com 

 

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Stus-List Cowl vent

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Our cowl vents are rather tired (Nicro  low profile 3” x 4 ½” high).
Looking for just the vent but can only locate the entire assembly which is
costly.  Any thoughts where I could get just the vent?  One option is a Sea
Dog vent at half the Nicro price.  Any experience with the Sea Dog?

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

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Re: Stus-List Standing rigging leak

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

HI Christian

 

Had exactly same issue on our 34.  Tried several sealers but the only one that 
worked is butyl.  Biggest issue is the large upward movement of the chain plate 
in relation to the deck when rig is tightened and can only imagine what happens 
when beating to windward and tacking.

 

I removed the chain plate to verify knee was sound – no wood rot.  All was 
well.  Slightly expanded the deck holes so they were cone shaped.  Reinstalled 
the plates.  Squeezed in butyl so completely filled void between deck and 
plates, pushed in firmly by hand and ensured was slightly proud of deck.  Put 
dabs of butyl around cover plate screws so whole assembly was sealed when plate 
secured.  Butyl oozed out of all appropriate places.  Did this long time ago ( 
5+ years??) and no leaks so far.  

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Christian 
Planton via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2018 3:28 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Christian Planton
Subject: Stus-List Standing rigging leak

 




I have a small leak at the chain plate. Anybody tried to fix this with 
something else than putting caulking around the base?

 

Christian

Peer Gynt II

C 34 1980

Saugatuck, CT

 

Wilton Public Schools is transitioning e-mail systems.  Effective immediately, 
please update your contact list to reflect the new e-mail address 
plant...@wiltonps.org.

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Re: Stus-List Sealant for chain plates.

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Butyl it is and never look back.  Had similar issues of leakage and redid all 
chain plates with butyl and nary a drop since then.   Biggest issue is the 
movement of the chain plate through the deck.  When you apply the sealant 
everything is at rest.  When the shrouds are torqued to spec, there is a 
significant upward movement of the chain plate vis a vis the deck.  Add to that 
the movement and cycling caused by tacking, and the upward movement gets to be 
significant to the point that sealants just will not adhere to the stainless 
bar.  The exception is butyl but it must be contained by the deck plate around 
the stainless bar.

 

My 2 cents American

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ed Dooley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2018 12:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ed Dooley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sealant for chainplates.

 

What about Polyethers? Flexible, adheres to plastics (3M 4000UV does anyway).

Here’s what West Marine says about them:  Polyether: One of the most exposure 
resistant sealants, unaffected by teak oils or cleaners, permanently flexible, 
and sandable. West Marine Multi-Caulk is an excellent choice for wood, metal, 
or fiberglass but will attack some plastics. However, 3M 4000UV 

  is rated as being safe for all plastics.

Ed

 

 

 

 

 

From: "Dennis C." 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Sealant for chainplates.

Date: April 10, 2018 at 10:54:56 AM EDT

To: CnClist 

 

In my opinion, the issue with many sealants is they "cure" or set.  So a 
polyurethane or silicone sets and becomes less flexible.  Further, many of 
those sealants do not adhere tenaciously to metal.

 

Butyl tape, on the other hand, remains sticky and pliable for a long, long 
time.  That means it will flex with any movement in the hardware without 
breaking the seal.

 

I still use LifeSeal for many applications where there is little potential for 
movement.  But I'm switching to Butyl tape for bedding anything that may flex.

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Tue, Apr 10, 2018 at 9:31 AM, Nauset Beach via CnC-List 
 wrote:

I have to do the same thing, again.  Used Lifecaulk in August, 2015 and noticed 
last month one chainplate was damp, and the boat is still under its winter 
cover.  

 

The Maine Sail tape seems to be the favorite bedding material of the list.  
What is the “life expectancy” of a chainplate seal using this material in the 
wild?  For bedding hardware he shows examples of 29 years, but the rigging / 
chainplate / deck interface does move [plus temperature variations from summer 
to winter plus differing expansion properties] so would guess it would take 
more frequent maintenance. 

 

Thanks,

Brian

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2018 9:02 AM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sealant for chainplates.

 

I just re-bedded Touche's chain plates with Bed-It butyl tape.  

 

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Tue, Apr 10, 2018 at 7:18 AM, Glen Eddie via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Can someone with a 35 mkI or II let me know the sealant used at the deck when 
rebedding a chainplate.  4000? 

 

Your assistance is much appreciated.  


  _  


 


Glen Eddie


Tel: 416-777-5357


Fax: 1-888-812-2557


ged...@torkinmanes.com


VCard  


Torkin Manes LLP
Barristers & Solicitors

151 Yonge Street, Suite 1500
Toronto ON M5C 2W7
  torkinmanes.com

An international member of Ally Law

This email message, and any attachments, is intended only for the named 
recipient(s) above and may contain content that is privileged, confidential 
and/or exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If you have received this 
message in error, please notify the sender and delete this email message. Thank 
you. 


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From: Schiller 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Sealant for chainplates.

Date: April 10, 2018 at 11:42:54 AM EDT

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

 

I wish I 

Re: Stus-List Mast Sensor

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Hi Alan

 

Had similar issue on my Horizon WS150.  Hopefully my fix can help you.  My 
biggest issue is these parts are no longer available and was reluctant to get a 
whole new system.

Easily disassembled – remove vane, then top is just friction fit with o-ring 
seals to main body to access circuit board.  While the board is not 
serviceable, my issue was the wires are extremely thin and the solder 
connections failed / in process of failing.  Most likely cause is corrosion 
over many years.  Used electronics pencil solder iron to carefully resolder.  
Reassemble.  Works perfectly.

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of ALAN BERGEN 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, April 05, 2018 12:54 PM
To: C
Cc: ALAN BERGEN
Subject: Stus-List Mast Sensor

 

I have ST60+ instruments.  The wind direction indicator reads erratically.  
Sometimes it reads correctly, and sometimes it's off by a lot.  Is the sensor 
serviceable?



Alan Bergen

35 Mk III Thirsty

Rose City YC

Portland. OR

 

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Stus-List Tank port o ring lubrication

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Have used Vaseline for years - works well with no leaks.  Also use on the o
rings for speed transducer

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

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Re: Stus-List Refinishing interior woodwork (not cabin sole)

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Have for many years applied lemon oil to interior teak woodwork every spring.  
Use varnish for cabin sole every 5 years or so. Use Cetol for top of 
companionway steps every 3 years or so.  All works just great with great results

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew 
Burton via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2018 10:24 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Burton
Subject: Re: Stus-List Refinishing interior woodwork (not cabin sole)

 

Bruce, if you're going to all that work, I would varnish. No oil is going to 
last and it leaves the veneer subject to water intrusion, which will stain the 
teak.

 

First, I'd try to clean the old lemon oil off with alcohol, then sand with 180 
grip paper, apply a sealer coat (I like Pettit Clear Sealer), allow that to 
dry, then apply a coat of Epiphanes Wood Finish Gloss (bring money) for it's 
durability and UV resisting properties, Then brush on a coat of Epiphanes 
Rubbed Effect varnish, which is a really forgiving finish that gives off a 
beautiful lustre.

You can varnish over most teak oils.

Peregrine was done that way before I got her and in the five years I had her 
the finish still looked terrific. The only maintenance was a wipe-down with 
vinegar and water every now and then.

 

Andy

Formerly: C 40

Peregrine

 

Now: Baltic 47

Masquerade

 

On Tue, Feb 27, 2018 at 10:03 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Hello all,

 

I am about ready to start trying to repair some water-spotted, worn and dried 
out wood in our 1994 C 37/40+.  Does anyone know what type of varnish, 
lacquer or other treatment was used originally by C to finish the interior 
woodwork?  I'm talking vertical surfaces, the nav table, etc., and I'd really 
like to match the interior look it had when it came out of the showroom so I 
don't have to refinish every square inch.

 

What should I use to remove the existing coating (if I should remove it at 
all), and what would you recommend for a new coating?  

 

I've used lemon oil before, but it seems to turn the wood dark over time.  

 

I'm thinking Danish Oil, but I really don't know enough to make an informed 
decision.

 

Thanks for the insights!

 

Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092   (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


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-- 

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260

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Stus-List Insurance

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Another excerpt

 

Mature Vessel Program Endorsement

The following conditions are added to Section "A" - Hull Insurance, 10.
Cause of loss that are not covered:

8. Mechanical Breakdown of machinery

9. Leakage, demise, compromise or failure of any sort, of fuel tanks and
fueling systems

However, we do insure for any resulting loss caused by items 8. and 9.
unless the resulting loss is excluded

from coverage.

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

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Stus-List Insurance

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Excerpt from our policy through New Hampshire Insurance which is part of AIG

 

3. VALUATION:

(a) The value of your yacht is shown on the

declarations as the agreed hull value. In the

event of damage to your yacht, we shall pay for

the cost of repairs with material of like kind and

quality without a deduction for depreciation.

(b) Covered losses to sails, protective covers,

carpeting, upholstery, cushions, fabrics,

outboard motors, and outdrives over three (3)

years old shall be paid on the basis of their

actual cash value adjusted for depreciation.

(c) Covered losses to machinery, including inboard

engines and equipment over ten (10) years old

shall be paid on the basis of their actual cash

value adjusted for depreciation.

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

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Re: Stus-List Toe rail water drain

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Hi Christian

 

Do not lift or cut toe rail – just asking for trouble and a heck of a lot of 
work to say nothing of messing with the structural integrity of hull deck joint.

 

To drain the puddles, we use a face cloth cut in half and folded over on each 
side put through the low point of the toe rail.  Not all that elegant but very 
functional to wick off the water. Helps a lot to minimize the black streaks

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Christian 
Planton via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2018 4:03 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Christian Planton
Subject: Stus-List Toe rail water drain

 

Hello everybody,

 

I am going to rebed my deck hardware. When I do I'm thinking of rebedding the 
toe rail. Has anybody cut drain points into it so the water drains out. I was 
even thinking of cutting 1/8" plastic strips and in a couple of places "Lifting 
up" the toe rail to create a path for the water to drain. 

 

I get puddles aft on both sides of the cockpit. 

 

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. 

 

ChristianPlanton

Peer Gyth

C 34 1980 

Saugatuck, CT 


 

 

Wilton Public Schools is transitioning e-mail systems.  Effective immediately, 
please update your contact list to reflect the new e-mail address 
plant...@wiltonps.org.

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Re: Stus-List Restarting Thread - Insurance: SHAME on Boat U.S./Geico!

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Have made inquiry to our agent on this point - will advise.  Seems a good
idea for all of us to do check on this

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Randy
Stafford via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2018 8:33 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Randy Stafford; Keith Bridges; Keith Oulson; Judi Suarez; BoatUS
Subject: Re: Stus-List Restarting Thread - Insurance: SHAME on Boat
U.S./Geico!

 

Thank you Bruce.  I have made the decision to switch from BoatUS to
Ameriprise/Progressive.

 

Cheers,

Randy

 

On Feb 8, 2018, at 5:43 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List
 wrote:

 

Hello all,





First, thanks to Eric for pointing out a CRITICAL provision in the new Boat
U.S. policies now issued by Geico.  







I read my new policy (which has only been in force since February 2nd) and
found the following provision:





"We will pay the reasonable cost of repairs and replacements, in accordance
with quality marine repair practice, less depreciation (emphasis added).
Depreciation shall be calculated at 10% for each year beginning with the
20th year from manufacture.  In all cases, there shall remain no less than
20% residual value regardless of age."





I then researched all the information provided during the quoting process.
This was not disclosed.  I then called Boat U.S., and they agreed they had
not informed me of this provision, and then offered me (for an upcharge of
$64), an endorsement that would take away the depreciation provision, but
only for the hull, mast, spars, railings, but not much more.  They do not
normally offer this endorsement unless the boat is less than 10 years old
(So what's the value in that?).  In my mind, that endorsement is worthless -
just think about that nice $2,000 chart plotter that gets fried by
lightning...







For a 1994 boat like mine, that means a partial loss would have only
resulted in recovery of 60% after the $1,200 deductible, and for my last
boat, (a 1977) only 20%.  For that kind of coverage on my old boat, I'd just
go bare!  The policy I had in place until last week was slightly more
expensive. but does not include a depreciation provision of that magnitude.








I am immediately urging all folks I know to immediately shop their coverage
and move it to a company that does not apply depreciation as soon as
possible. 







1).  I am embarrassed to have to admit that as a person with 30+ years in
the insurance industry, I had not read my policy.

2).  The person I spoke with on the phone confirmed that this was not a
provision of the prior CNA policies issued through Boat U.S.



3). I consider this bad faith on the part of the insurer and the licensed
brokers at Boat U.S.  I intend to file a formal complaint with the Florida
Department of Insurance accordingly.





This is exactly the kind of thing that would get me involved in an Errors &
Omissions claim if I did this to a client, and I made that abundantly clear
to the person I was talking to at Boat U.S.







I will also post this on other boards.

 

Bruce Whitmore
1994 C 37/40+ "Astralis"  
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

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Re: Stus-List Exterior Teak

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Ditto on Cetol.  Use Cetol Marine.  Each spring, light sand then one thin coat 
and good to go for the season – looks great.  We do cover for the winter

 

BTW, congratulation on buying TAZ.  Know the boat and her prior owners well and 
they loved her.  Welcome to the list.  Where are you located?

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2018 2:19 PM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Re: Stus-List Exterior Teak

 

I used teak oil on the toe rails of my previous boat.  I religiously oiled them 
every few months.  After a few months, they looked like crap.

 

On Touche' I use Cetol.  Five coats Cetol Marine followed by three coats Cetol 
Gloss.  Then a coat of Cetol gloss twice a year.  Over ten years in the 
Louisiana sun and still looking pretty good.

 

I seen dock neighbors use Bristol, teak oil, Semco, etc.  For my money and 
time, it's Cetol.  However, I'd be tempted to look hard at Awlwood.

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Feb 7, 2018 10:47 AM, "Brien Sadler via CnC-List"  
wrote:

My exterior teak is starting to show signs of wear and it's time to refinish 
it. It looks as though it has been varnished in the past but was wondering if 
anyone has just used teak oil on their exterior wood. Looking for 
recommendations.

 

Brien Sadler

S/V TAZ

C 35-3 


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Re: Stus-List insurance

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

We are with New Hampshire Insurance through agent Heritage Insurance locally.  
$665/year for $41K agreed value, 2% deductable, tender, indemnity, towing, 
personal effects, uninsured boater and fuel spill liability.  Coverage and 
rates have been constant for 3 years.  No claims.  Racing is OK.  One issue is 
the age of our beloved C’s such that many insurers will not cover them.  We 
also had to have a survey done to get the new policy.

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of ahycrace 
ahycrace via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2018 3:50 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: ahycrace ahycrace
Subject: Stus-List insurance

 

Hello all

   Well I just got my insurance bill from boat US and it went up 
238$  a pretty big increase.  I called to ask why and they said it was nothing 
on my end rates just went up.  I am wondering if everybody else got raised as 
well?  I tried to increase my deductible  which is zero, to say 4% or so to 
lower my rates. They said they can't do that because they have a automatic 
lowering of the deductible over time and once it reaches zero it must stay 
there. Sounds like they just want to keep the bill up! 1100$ for 40k, might 
have to start shopping, any feedback?

 

 Gary K  "Liberty"  
1976  38'  MKll

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Re: Stus-List Holiday wishes

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Merry Christmas to all.  Fair winds and following seas

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

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Re: Stus-List Replacing shifter cable - but

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Hi Don

 

Chuck’s instructions pretty much mirror our experience.  Once the compass and 
plate are off and the cable clamp screw is removed, the entire cable / clamp / 
handle assembly can be removed from the binnacle.  Attach new cable to the 
handle, attach cable clamp, refit into binnacle and tube.  Be especially aware 
the handles only go in one way so carefully note their position going out so 
you can replicate going in.  Best of luck

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck 
Gilchrest via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2017 2:58 PM
To: 'DON JONSSON'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chuck Gilchrest
Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacing shifter cable - but

 

Don,

Your boat has the same engine control as mine.  It was a control made 
specifically for C because the engineers at C didn’t like the idea of the 
control cables for the engine running inside the pedestal, fearing they would 
possibly foul on the steering gear.  It is either an Edson 737 or 747 control 
depending on whether you have an Atomic 4 (using a series 64 Morse Cable for 
the shift) or a diesel with a pair of Morse 33 cables.  The only difference is 
the length of the cable clamps and the type of shift lever (the one for the gas 
engine has a long removable lever that stores on a hole in the engine control’s 
top plate).  As soon as you started talking about removing the top plate, I 
suspected that your engine control was different than what was being discussed. 
   

 

On these controls, there is a strap steel clamp that extends down the stainless 
tube that serves to hold the cable from moving up and down when you actuate the 
levers.  I can’t recall the exact size of screw that anchors these long metal 
pieces but they can be a real bear to remove.  

So, your compass needs to come off.. the top plate that bolts down onto the top 
of the controller comes off, you reach into the control and remove the cotter 
pin that holds the control lever to the cable clevis, remove the pivot bolt 
(screw?) and slide the control lever out of the engine control.  Whatever you 
do, don’t break anything because parts are pretty  much impossible to find.  
Remove the clamp screw and pull the cable up sufficiently to unscrew the clevis 
from the threaded cable end.  The cable can either be routed up or down, 
depending on what would be the easier access.  I typically find pushing the 
cable up through the tubes from below deck works better than feeding them down 
the tube.

 

Should something be broken or the engine control is badly corroded, a refit to 
a model 816 engine control (diesel engine) or 751 (gas engine/paragon 
transmission) is probably recommended.  This new control will fit between the 
pedestal and compass.

I hope this helps.  

Again, If you struggle with the direction given here, Ken Martin at Edson has 
been dealing with “over the phone” help for these controls for 20 years or more 
and was always better than me with the customers!  They may still have a 
photocopy of the original installation instructions they can send in a PDF.

 

Good luck,

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 35 Landfall

Padanaram, MA

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Replacing shifter cable

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Don

Replaced the OEM cables on our 34 2 years ago.  Huge improvement.  Not hard
but does require exacting process so things will come apart and back
together.  Yes you need to remove the plate and compass from the binnacle so
you can remove the handle and cable assembly which is a tight fit and only
works one way.  Contact me off list if you need any more info


John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 C 34
Noank, CT
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of DON
JONSSON via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, December 09, 2017 8:28 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: DON JONSSON
Subject: Stus-List Replacing shifter cable

On our C we have replaced the motor and now need to replace the shifter
cable.  It is a C 34 with a throttle on one side and the shifter on port.
The secret is how to disconnect the shifter lever from the cable with out
ripping everything apart on the binnacle.  We don't know the secret.  Does
anyone?  I suspect trying to take the pin out that goes through the u-joint
on the end of the cable holding it to the lever with needle nose pliers will
end badly.  Trying to put it back together even worse.  First attempt at
removing the screws/bolts holding the top plate down around the compass on
the binnacle did not bode well.

Thanks for any help.

Don Jonsson
C 34, Victoria

Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List Tnanks everyone

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Nay, nay - thank you say we all

John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 C 34
Noank, CT
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stu via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 14, 2017 11:05 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Stu
Subject: Stus-List Tnanks everyone

Thanks to everyone that generously supported the C Photo Album and this list 
with their donations of appreciation.

Your donations will certainly cover the expenses in 2018 and each is greatly 
appreciated.

Stu 'n' Gladys




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Re: Stus-List Stainless Steel Mixing Elbows

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

When I replaced mine a few years ago, my trusty mechanic recommended the
cast iron for some reason that made perfect sense at the time but totally
eludes me now

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brad
Crawford via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 08, 2017 10:16 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Brad Crawford
Subject: Stus-List Stainless Steel Mixing Elbows

 

I am in the process of replacing my Yanmar mixing elbow on our 3HM motor.
Does anyone have any experience with the stainless replacements being
offered by HDI marine out of Vancouver Wa.?  The price looks to be a little
less and they look good on the website. 

 

Thanks,

 

Brad Crawford

Dora Pearl

C 36

Seattle

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Stus-List Diesel tank hoses

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Removed my OEM aluminum diesel tank now 35 years old.  Exterior looks great
but interior shows a number of corrosion issues.  Had to remove fittings and
saw off the inlet fitting to get the tank out of the locker so was committed
when I did that to getting a new tank.  That said, the hidden corrosion on
the interior tells me an incident was in the making so replacing now is a
good idea. 

 

Have replacement aluminum tank made by Luther's in Bristol RI who by all
accounts are the "go to" source for a tank made right in all respects.  Not
the least expensive by any stretch but by far the best value or so they say
J

 

Question is replacing the hoses.  West carries the Shields brand, Defender
the Trident at a cost differential of some 20% less in price.
Specifications are essentially identical.  Any reason to not embrace the
lower price??

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

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Re: Stus-List baby stay on 1982 34

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

On our 34, we always keep tension on the baby stay even the on the mooring.  
More for heavier winds or seas and less for light airs and yes remove it for 
spinnaker work – keeps the foredeck from getting bored   J  Because there 
are only single lowers parallel to the shrouds, the mast does in fact pump a 
goodly amount.  Some other models may be more, some less, but there is pumping. 
 Just lie down on the deck and look up the mast when sailing to windward in a 
decent breeze with moderate chop.  On the 34, we are talking several inches.  
All that movement does have a significant impact on the shape of the main and a 
noticeable impact on speed.  The main is kept flatter and a more constant shape 
enhancing air flow.  The other issue is wear and tear on the rig, especially 
where the spreaders attach to the mast.  The spreaders are designed to move 
fore and aft a fair amount – so the plane of the shrouds stays constant while 
the mast pumps back and forth.  Just take the lee slack shrouds when sailing to 
windward and move them fore and aft.  That is the outboard end moving.  Now 
imagine the outboard end remaining stationary and the mast moving a similar 
amount.  Now imagine that movement when under load of the windward shrouds 
beating to windward.  I see that wear every time I unstep the mast and remove 
the spreaders.  There  is a reason why so many designs over many centuries used 
for and aft lowers – to minimize pumping.  Can’t speak to the integrity of the 
rig of pumping and certainly that is a function of how bendy the mast is.  Just 
feel that minimizing pumping cannot hurt, probably prevents cyclical loading, 
know it enhances performance and the baby stay allows adjustments in real time. 
 Yes, can be a PITA at times, but like most things is a trade off.  

 

My 2 cents American

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Persuasion37 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2017 6:44 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Persuasion37
Subject: Re: Stus-List baby stay on 1982 34

 

Ditto

Mike

PERSUASION

C 37 K/CB

Long Sault


On Oct 25, 2017, at 9:21 PM, G Collins via CnC-List  
wrote:

I find the baby stay question an interesting one.  We've got the adjustable 
babystay, but don't race, so usually it gets tensioned at the beginning of the 
season and then at some random time during the summer someone kicks the clutch, 
and eventually I discover that it isn't tensioned.  

Would it be worth a survey?  I'm curious how many owners actually have and 
actively use the baby stay.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11

On 2017-10-25 10:00 PM, Charles Nelson via CnC-List wrote:

Before investing lots of time, effort and money in reattaching your baby stay 
to whatever, give some thought to a larger questionis it necessary on your 
boat? While I am not a naval architect and have not recently stayed in a 
Holiday Inn Express :>), unless your mast is 'bendy' and absolutely requires it 
you might be able to "...forgetaboutit ...", particularly if your spreaders are 
not swept aft. Many masts of your boat vintage were more like aluminum 
telephone poles which would never bend fore and aft, baby stay notwithstanding. 
My 1995 36 XL came with a baby stay and a relatively bendy mast. The spreaders 
are not swept at all. Given that I have NO plans to ever take her seriously 
off-shore and I sail/race in the protected waters of the NC sounds and the PITA 
the baby stay is in tacking upwind and removing it for flying the kite, my 
sailmaker recommend it's removal, which I did and have never looked back. Now 
if I planned to go offshore, I would put it back on board for the SOLE reason 
of preventing mast pumping fore and aft--that is one gravity storm I prefer to 
miss!

Of course your use and the design of your boat might make its use mandatory but 
in my case, I am pretty sure it was added solely to stabilize mast pumping fore 
and aft. I avoid such pumping by sailing for pleasure in protected waters and  
have never missed it (but the attachment below and rod as well as the rolled up 
stay are kept on board anyway!

 

FWIW

 

Charlie Nelson

1995 C 36XL/kcb

Water Phantom

 


Sent from my iPhone


On Oct 25, 2017, at 8:14 PM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List  
wrote:

My baby stay comes down to a pad eye on the top of the cabin and is then 
attached to a piece of rod rigging just in front of the head in the v-berth 
area. I don't have a track on mine.

If there is any stainless bracket or welding, I can't see it. There is a lot of 
fiberglass covering it all. I can't even tell by the hole that's  left if there 
really is a wood  stringer in there. Im not sure how much glass I would need to 
cut away to get to where any bracket or plate may be. 

I suppose I could cut some of it away and have a new plate and stud welded 
together. Then lag bolt it to the stringer and 

Re: Stus-List Baby Stay Hull Stud

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Hi Kevin

 

I am not sure if the stud is screwed into the keel or not.  We are on the hard 
so can take some measurements – probably this weekend

 

>From your photos it looks like it will be a challenge to remove the remaining 
>stud

 

Will be back after the measurements

 

John & Maryann

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Paxton 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 25, 2017 8:11 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Kevin Paxton
Subject: Re: Stus-List Baby Stay Hull Stud

 

Thanks John,

 

That's what I was afraid of. Sounds like this is not going to necessarily be an 
easy fix. 

Just so I make sure I understand what your saying. 

*   The stud is believed to be attached directly to the keel.
*   If that is true, then the shaft of the stud is probably 3+ inches 
through the hull and into the keel.
*   Possible fix would be to drill out the hole, tap the new hole and try 
to thread a new stud in its place.
*   Re seal the hole with epoxy and filler?

If it's directly attached to the keel, would threading a new hole be strong 
enough? How far down should I drill it out? 

I don't have exact measurements but the stud itself looks to be almost 1/2" 
thick. Where can I find something that large? I can only seem to find lifeline 
studs so far.

 

I also can't seem to find any information on this kind of thing online 
anywhere. Any suggestions on where to look?

 

Thanks,

 

Kevin Paxton

'82 34 #473

Japhys Spirit

Cornfield Creek, Magothy River, MD

 

On Tue, Oct 24, 2017 at 8:59 PM John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Hi Kevin

 

Sorry to see this situation but as with most things boat, all it takes is money 
to fix things.  Obviously some water got into the stub recess and corroded the 
stub itself.  Pretty impressive to cause the stud to crack apart.  FWIW, we 
consider the baby stay an integral part of the rig and its integrity as it 
prevents the mast pumping – with the added benefit of helping to shape the 
mainsail.

 

Not 100% sure, but it would make structural sense the stud is threaded into the 
keel itself.  Otherwise the upward pull would be like trying to separate the 
keel from the hull stub.  I do know the keel sump is about 3 inches thick at 
its forward edge.  Some careful measurements both inside and outside might be 
in order.  I will check our 34 dimensions when next there in a week or so.  In 
any event, it looks like a job best handled on the hard – remove the remaining 
stud, rethread the hole and reattach a new stud.  Seal appropriately.

 

Best

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34 (hull 464)

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Paxton 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2017 8:15 AM
To: cnc-list Cnc-List
Cc: Kevin Paxton
Subject: Stus-List Baby Stay Hull Stud

 

Hey everyone,

I noticed that our baby stay stud that attaches to the hull was broken this 
past weekend. I haven't used the baby stay since we've gotten the boat (~3-4 
years ago). But I know it was previously attached. It seems it broke sometime 
in the last month or so. It looks like water may have gotten down into the hole 
and it seems to have rusted away. 

 

1. Any ideas on it's actual shape and size? It looks to me like a standard 
rigging stud, just fairly thick. But I have no idea how it was attached, or if 
there was a mounting plate or anything that was glassed in to the hull?

2. Replacements? Anywhere I can find it?

3. How do I re-mount it? Is this something I can do while in the water? Or am I 
going to have to dig something out and re-bed the whole thing?

 

Here are some photos for reference.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/104c_WRGp5_HCtd4GugDWbI8x96faZjEFSg/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1a2KxDYLuZkHMvqg4JLqBBLxrnznGlI7wRg/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1H39DlvaqaiM1mwf8bCz-pu9WoPGzmeSu4Q/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1sgCnY_SpTw5gkoOjHk21Yp0-lgfjdgjpjw/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/10enub0yr-OfrLbfdpeNC3UTjGTgpBX_wUA/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1d4lj_XnK39SYJLaGANr5tAeF-BV_KYMVqg/view?usp=sharing

 

Thanks,

 

Kevin Paxton

'82 34 #473

Japhys Spirit

Cornfield Creek, Magothy River, MD

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The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
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October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   

Re: Stus-List Baby Stay Hull Stud

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Hi Kevin

 

Sorry to see this situation but as with most things boat, all it takes is money 
to fix things.  Obviously some water got into the stub recess and corroded the 
stub itself.  Pretty impressive to cause the stud to crack apart.  FWIW, we 
consider the baby stay an integral part of the rig and its integrity as it 
prevents the mast pumping – with the added benefit of helping to shape the 
mainsail.

 

Not 100% sure, but it would make structural sense the stud is threaded into the 
keel itself.  Otherwise the upward pull would be like trying to separate the 
keel from the hull stub.  I do know the keel sump is about 3 inches thick at 
its forward edge.  Some careful measurements both inside and outside might be 
in order.  I will check our 34 dimensions when next there in a week or so.  In 
any event, it looks like a job best handled on the hard – remove the remaining 
stud, rethread the hole and reattach a new stud.  Seal appropriately.

 

Best

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34 (hull 464)

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Paxton 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2017 8:15 AM
To: cnc-list Cnc-List
Cc: Kevin Paxton
Subject: Stus-List Baby Stay Hull Stud

 

Hey everyone,

I noticed that our baby stay stud that attaches to the hull was broken this 
past weekend. I haven't used the baby stay since we've gotten the boat (~3-4 
years ago). But I know it was previously attached. It seems it broke sometime 
in the last month or so. It looks like water may have gotten down into the hole 
and it seems to have rusted away. 

 

1. Any ideas on it's actual shape and size? It looks to me like a standard 
rigging stud, just fairly thick. But I have no idea how it was attached, or if 
there was a mounting plate or anything that was glassed in to the hull?

2. Replacements? Anywhere I can find it?

3. How do I re-mount it? Is this something I can do while in the water? Or am I 
going to have to dig something out and re-bed the whole thing?

 

Here are some photos for reference.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/104c_WRGp5_HCtd4GugDWbI8x96faZjEFSg/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1a2KxDYLuZkHMvqg4JLqBBLxrnznGlI7wRg/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1H39DlvaqaiM1mwf8bCz-pu9WoPGzmeSu4Q/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1sgCnY_SpTw5gkoOjHk21Yp0-lgfjdgjpjw/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/10enub0yr-OfrLbfdpeNC3UTjGTgpBX_wUA/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1d4lj_XnK39SYJLaGANr5tAeF-BV_KYMVqg/view?usp=sharing

 

Thanks,

 

Kevin Paxton

'82 34 #473

Japhys Spirit

Cornfield Creek, Magothy River, MD

___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List opinions on cabin table

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

A lot depends on the size of the boat and its configuration besides the table.  
Our is fixed midships in the main cabin with folding leaves, storage in the 
center section.  Serves as a nice place to steady yourself while underway.  
With leaves up is a great dining / food prep / card playing surface.   
Starboard berth has swing out base so converts to a cozy double bunk.  We find 
smaller children like the forepeak to play in.  We like it

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, October 08, 2017 4:34 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Danny Haughey
Subject: Re: Stus-List opinions on cabin table

 

 Our boat came with a fixed table with folding leaves.  I took it out.  I've 
recently realised the purpose off the fixed table.  It makes for a sea berth 
while underway and will keep you from rolling of the berth. 

 

Of course, we don't do any overnight passages currently so, we're just leaving 
it out. 

 

I do like the ones that food up against the bulk head.  I'd like to see a photo 
of what you guys mean by dinette

 

 

 

Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

 

 Original message 

From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  

Date: 10/8/17 3:36 PM (GMT-05:00) 

To: CnClist  

Cc: "Dennis C."  

Subject: Re: Stus-List opinions on cabin table 

 

Agree with Gary.  We love the dinette layout on Touche'.  

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Sun, Oct 8, 2017 at 2:29 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Get a boat with a dinette, fixed table but not in the way.

Gary

30-1 (ancient)

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Lisle 
Kingery, PhD via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, October 8, 2017 2:30 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Lisle Kingery, PhD 
Subject: Stus-List opinions on cabin table

 

Hi all,

 

I'm interested in opinions about having a fixed table in the middle of the 
cabin vs. a table that folds down and out of the way when not in use. As I 
obsess over boat features this is emerging as an important consideration. I'll 
have 2 kids on board sometimes (ages 6 and 4) and I'm thinking having the open 
space might be really nice vs. having the table in the way all the time. Thanks 
in advance for any opinions on this issue.

 

Best regards,

 

Lisle


___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

 

___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C 35-3 Rudder Drain Holes

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

When we rebuilt our 34 rudder, there had been water intrusion and degradation 
of the foam but was a relatively easy fix.  Of note is the design is solid 
glass around the entire perimeter.  Careful tapping gave a good guide of where 
the interface was.  The bottom had a section roughly mid way fore and aft where 
the solid glass was considerably less, obviously for the drilling of a drainage 
hole.  Have had no issue since the rebuild several years ago.

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jake 
Brodersen via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, October 08, 2017 10:29 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jake Brodersen
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 35-3 Rudder Drain Holes

 

Neil,

 

I drilled a hole about two inches from the bottom or the rudder in the 
starboard side.  I have threaded a machine screw into it.  I pull it out at 
each haul out.  I seal it with caulk before launching.  Works great.  I don’t 
see much water at all.  Sometimes just a few rusty drips over a period of a few 
days.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of schiller via 
CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, October 7, 2017 15:56
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: schiller 
Subject: Stus-List C 35-3 Rudder Drain Holes

 

One of the items in our new C 35, Mark III was that there was moisture in the 
rudder and the surveyor suggested drilling drainage holes.  Anyone want to 
suggest the location to drill?  We hauled out last night and I am going up to 
the boat to disconnect batteries on Wednesday.  I assume that the drainage 
holes will be in the lower quadrant of the rudder.  Should they be in the side 
or in the bottom surface (or does it really matter.

I never had to do this on my Redwing 35 so this is new to us.

Neil Schiller
1983 C 35, Mark III, #028
"Grace"
White Lake, Michigan

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Re: Stus-List Re George Cuthbertson

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Joe

 

Photos sent and a great idea.  Many thanks for pulling this together

 

 

John and Maryann Read

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joe Della 
Barba via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, October 06, 2017 10:07 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joe Della Barba
Subject: Re: Stus-List Re George Cuthbertson

 

Send them to my home address – j...@dellabarba.com

Bigger the better, no need to shrink them down.

Please put George Cuthbertson Photo in the subject. 

Also write a brief note about you and your boat and I’ll work the text in 
someplace TBD.

 

Joe Della Barba

j...@dellabarba.com

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All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank Replacement

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Allrighty then – have an alternate perspective on plastic fuel tanks.  My 
trusty Yanmar mechanic (years of experience and formerly on their advisory 
group) indicates a plastic tank may create an issue of compliance to current 
regulations on fire safety in an enclosed area with an attendant impact on a 
survey if the boat is sold.  He recommends only a new metal tank that can 
withstand a fire in the engine compartment without melting and spilling fuel.  
The plastic tanks are good for more open applications and should be used in a 
sailboat only if the tank area is separated / isolated from the engine area.  
Further, the Moeller does not have a dedicated fuel return fitting which is 
required for diesels so the only alternative is to “tee” into the vent line a 
less than ideal solution.

 

On another note, on inspection to remove the tank on a 34 appears to be a 
really tight fit around the engine and water heater.  Has any 34 owner actually 
removed their tank and care to share any tidbits of advice??

 

Thoughts from the esteemed group??

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

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Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank Replacement

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Hi Bill

 

I am also planning to replace our tank.  The Moeller tank looks like the vent 
and outlet vertically oriented fittings which makes fitting under the cockpit 
sole a tight affair.  Can the tank be ordered with these fittings on a 90 
degree el fitting??

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of William 
Walker via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2017 12:43 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: wwadjo...@aol.com
Subject: Stus-List Fuel Tank Replacement

 

Moving ahead on the project. Old tank out.  New ordered and delivered by Amazon 
in 2 days..Moeller 19 gallon, 16 x 12 x 26.  90 degree hose and straight hose 
connector as I think Dennis mentioned.
Two questions:
First, if I leave at least 2 inches of the 1.5 inch fuel line inlet connector, 
can I trim its height if I need to?  It is going to be really tight to get the 
90 degree elbow on.  need to keep the plastic "sawdust" out of tank somehow.
Second, the old aluminum tank was bonded to the deck filler and the to the 
engine block.  Since this is plastic tank should I skip tank and bond deck 
filler directly to engine?  What about  the sending unit.
Thanks
Bill Walker 
CnC 36
Pentwater, Michigan

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

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Re: Stus-List Fuel tank replacement

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Yup we now have our winter project - replace the 35 year old tank before it
gives up the ghost.  Measured ours and is exactly same as Robert's.  Keep us
all posted on what you find

John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 C 34
Noank, CT
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2017 3:03 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert
Subject: Stus-List Fuel tank replacement

I just measured my fuel tank.27" wide, 16" deep, 12" height+7" 
top clearance to the cockpit solenot the easiest to access to remove 
it but doable with some four letter words and beers.   Need to ensure 
the in fill on the tank has a 90 deg. intake to make connecting the in hose
easy, maybe simply doable!

I like the idea of the Moeller tanks that are transparent.not just to
determine the fuel level but possibly seeing anything in the tank.  
Someone here , maybe Dennis, earlier gave me a Moeller 19 gallon part 
#.   The hunt is now on.

The position Bill is in now is just the position I stated the other day I
did not want to be inreplaced the fuel tank because it is now, or near
now, that the tank will need to be replaced.

Good luck to you Billlet us know how you fair out.what tank you
acquire.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.



On 2017-09-10 9:40 AM, William Walker via CnC-List wrote:
>
> All this talk about leaking tanks caused mine to spring a leak on 
> Fridayreally.
> Wish the access on my 36 was as good as others seem to have. Espar 
> furnace and refrigeration complicate things for me.Dei Dennis, what 
> tank do you recommend?  Good website for fitting install in plastic?  
> Or do the come ready to go?
> Bill Walker CnC 36
> Penteater, Mi
>
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
>
>


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Re: Stus-List Exaust elbow replacement

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

We replaced ours 2 years ago – mechanic recommended the cast iron version,
and not to use the stainless.  Don’t remember the exact reason why but
believe it had to do with the rusting of the cast iron was indicative an
internal issue

 

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruno
Lachance via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2017 10:15 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bruno Lachance
Subject: Stus-List Exaust elbow replacement

 

 

Hi all,

 

I know from this list that i could replace my exaust elbow (yanmar 2 GM 20F)
with a stainless steel copy available online. Is there a reason why i should
go with an original yanmar part ? and if the collective wisdon is to replace
with SS. Where is the best place to order if i'm in Canada. For both quality
and price.

 

 

Thank you very much.

 

Bruno Lachance

Bécassine, 33 mk II 

New-Richmond, Qc

 

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Re: Stus-List wheel squeak

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

See my prior post about the PO installed a bronze sheet around the rudder post 
which started to crinkle causing very hard steering.  Dropped the rudder, 
cleaned out the tube with kerosene, relubricated with waterproof grease, all is 
well.  I also rebuilt the rudder at the time, replaced the cables, etc, etc, etc

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce 
Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, August 26, 2017 9:09 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Re: Stus-List wheel squeak

 

If your wheel is stiff and you've lubed everything, then I would strongly 
suspect a bent rudder shaft, and since it has been stiff since you bought the 
boat, you're unfortunately in a position where you don't know all the past 
history.  

 

I had a friend who's wife was motoring and didn't realize there was a line of 
pilings in the water (they were not well marked).  She got the keel and rudder 
in between the line and couldn't get out.  It bent the rudder, but not so bad 
that it couldn't be turned.  

 

In the end, the insurance replaced the rudder and that solved the problem.

 

In your particular case, if you can determine the point and extent of the bend, 
you can probably find a heavy-duty machine shop with a hydraulic press that can 
straighten the shaft.  

Sorry for the less than stellar news, 

 

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

 

  _  

From: Martin Kane via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Martin Kane 
Sent: Friday, August 25, 2017 4:41 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List wheel squeak

 

I had the rudder out of my  ’83 29-2 last winter. The only metal 
bushing/bearing is where the post comes thru the cockpit sole. There was only 
minimal wear on mine so I didn’t replace it. The fit between the rudder post 
and fibreglass rudder tube is tight and there is no stuffing box like on the 
prop shaft. There is just a tube which acts as a long bushing/bearing. If the 
grease in the tube has gone hard, then injecting fresh won’t clear out the old 
grease. If you decide to drop the rudder be careful as it is only held in place 
by the two set screws in collar that sits on top of the post. I’d guess it 
weighs about a 100lbs and doesn’t really have any good hand holds. So not that 
easy to work with. When the boat on the hard I can move the rudder from stop to 
stop with the pressure from one finger. 

 

Martin 

29-2 Recalculating

 

From: Bruce Pope [mailto:brucep...@live.ca] 
Sent: Friday, August 25, 2017 3:20 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List wheel squeak

 

Hello.

 

On a similar note

The wheel on my 1986 29-2 has been stiff since purchase 3 years ago.I have 
lube'd everything in the steering system that was recommended by folks on this 
list including pumping fresh waterproof grease into the rudder post stuffing 
box thru a zerk fitting (with old grease pushing out of the top).   I read a 
post some time ago indicating that there is likely a bushing at the top of the 
rudder post where it enters the cockpit sole - at the emergency tiller steering 
unit.  Wondering if anyone knows whether the 80's vintage C 29-2's also have  
bushing/bearings down in the rudder post stuffing box ?If yes,  also 
wondering if anyone knows where I can get replacement bushings or will I have 
to get someone to make them?

I am borrowing a trailer to haul the boat and on a pretty tight time schedule 
so would like to have parts in hand before I haul.

Thanks.

 

Bruce

1986 29-2

Gyrfalcon

Kootenay Lake, BC

 

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Re: Stus-List wheel squeak

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

So Richard

 

Can you ascertain what exactly is squeaking??  In looking at the other comments 
to this thread, they covered the major components, so suggest you recruit a 
willing?? crew to slowly turn the wheel while you are carefully listening to 
each component.  In our case, the wheel turns so freely that lightly applying 
the brake is helpful and that does squeak / groan on occasion.

 

That said, we did remove the chain about 5 years ago as a preventive measure 
and glad we did.  The PO had installed a bronze sheet around the rudder shaft 
to provide some friction and it was crumpling on the edges making steering 
difficult.  We dropped the rudder, removed the sheathing, greased it all up and 
reinstalled.  In the process thoroughly inspected the entire steering system.  
Seems the wire takes a pretty sharp bend going into the quadrant.  The original 
wire had a few strands broken, so replacing the wire ensured the integrity.  
Inspected everything else in the process – all was well / lubricated 
appropriately and now it works perfectly.

 

Cheers

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard 
Walter via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2017 9:34 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Richard Walter
Subject: Stus-List wheel squeak

 

Greetings, 

 

The wheel on our 1978 36-footer has always squeaked to varying degrees. Anyone 
found a solution to squeaky wheels? When it comes to getting grease, I cannot 
locate a grease fitting (Zerc). Anyone added one? 

 

Thank you,

Richard 

s/v INDIGO 

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Re: Stus-List 35 - 3

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Shipping costs can be substantially reduced if you have time and can schedule 
delivery as part of the round trip the truck has to make

We trucked our 34 from Rochester NY to Mystic CT when we bought her - paid the 
roundtrip cost of the truck but was not excessive

John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 C 34
Noank, CT
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Leslie Paal 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, August 05, 2017 1:32 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Leslie Paal
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35 - 3

I have shipped a C from Marblehead to San Diego, the cost was much less 
than the potential loss on the sale/purchase.  (I also had a tight schedule 
between jobs.)

Leslie.


On Tue, 8/1/17, Howard and Skippy via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Stus-List 35 - 3
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: "Howard and Skippy" 
 Date: Tuesday, August 1, 2017, 6:20 PM
 
 Hello All,
 I have owned Knot Again, a 35-3 for
 about 25 years. I have raced and
 cruised with her extensively. She is
 one of the winning-est boats in the
 Middle Atlantic states. 18 trophies in
 the Around Long Island Regatta,
 multiple club championships. Multiple
 NJ offshore racing conference
 firsts (seconds and thirds). Third in
 C worlds. This summer, in two
 major regattas, in 10 races, 9 1sts and
 1 2nd (by 5 seconds!). A safe,
 dependable wonderful sailing vessel. I
 am moving to California and it is
 too expensive to ship it, so it is for
 sale.IMHO, one of the nicest 35-3
 available. Needs nothing and ready to
 sail away. Still actively being
 used. Extensive upgrades. Please email
 for pictures and complete info.
 Howard Paul, Skipper Knot Again
 
 ___
 
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 donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution  to offset our 
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 All Contributions are greatly
 appreciated!
 

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Re: Stus-List Hillerange stove thermostat

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Hi Don

We had the same problem when we got our 34 19 years ago - keeping the pilot
light lit.  We replaced our thermostat years ago and that fixed our problem.
Will dig into my records to see if I can find where we got the part.

John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 C 34
Noank, CT
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of DON
JONSSON via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2017 12:14 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: DON JONSSON
Subject: Stus-List Hillerange stove thermostat

Hello all

I'm looking for a thermostat for a Hillerange oven.  It is on our 1981 C
34 and it is the brown three burner, model number is 3121 and is also known
as the Seaward Princess (I think).  The thermostat is part number 70400.  We
cannot get our current one rebuilt in Seattle because our current one is for
natural gas not propane and that is the problem.  Someone must have replaced
it with the wrong one at some point and it has never worked since I have
owned the boat.  The pilot light will not stay lit. 

If anyone happens to have a functioning one on a stove that is not longer
used I would be interested.

Thanks
Don Jonsson
Swan Song, C 34
Victoria, B.C.

Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List foot pumps in galley

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

In 2006 we replaced ours from

 

TMC International Industries Inc

Diaphragm foot pump TMC-70701

Cost was $43.00

 

Google indicates no web site but gives contact info

 

5060 N Royal Atlanta Dr 

Tucker GA  30084

770-270-0828

 

Best of luck

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill via
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, July 21, 2017 11:40 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: bria...@aol.com
Subject: Stus-List foot pumps in galley

 

Does anyone have an idea what brand the foot pumps (there are 3) are in a
1986 Landfall 39? 

 

It is black, and has no company name. The only label says "Made in Taiwan."

 

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

Bill

 

MYSTY

1986 Landfall 39

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Re: Stus-List Looking for used RF Headsail of 34

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

I would think a headsail for a 40 is much much larger than for a 34 so would 
not fit

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of George Cone 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2017 10:11 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: George Cone
Subject: Re: Stus-List Looking for used RF Headsail of 34

 

I have an old #2 that was cut to work as a roller furling genny on your boat – 
C 40, it is in fair – to good shape, you probably have it at no cost to get 
you through this year and maybe more. It is for my 40.

 

Thanks,

George Cone

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of SEAN CONNER 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2017 6:39 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: SEAN CONNER 
Subject: Stus-List Looking for used RF Headsail of 34

 

Had a beautiful day sailing off the coast of NH the other day in 15kts, but 
unfortunately we blew out our aging genoa.   Wondering if any 34 owners have a 
good-very good Roller Furling genoa that you might be looking to sell.   I'm 
looking for something between 130-155%.   I'm willing to pay up to $750 and 
have a couple of spinnakers (.6 and .75) that I might be willing to trade.  
Thanks for the consideration.

Sean Conner

C 34 #134, LADYHAWKE

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Re: Stus-List Separation between locker and engine 33-2

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

On our 34, have the same issue of a cavernous opening from the lazarette to the 
engine compartment / prop shaft with all kinds of potential for mischief.  We 
address this by 1) a laundry basket on top of the water heater to hold all 
sheets and lines, 2) fenders are always placed in lazarette with line outboard, 
3) cockpit folding plastic table standing upright against frame around opening, 
4) hatchboard placed vertically against plastic table, 5) no other material 
goes into lazarette.  3 and 4 prevent anything moving into engine compartment.  
No problems after 18 years

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick 
Taillieu via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 07, 2017 8:21 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Taillieu
Subject: Re: Stus-List Separation between locker and engine 33-2

 

I’ve seen peg board used here, it stops everything from falling into the shaft 
and lots of holes to provide airflow to the engine compartment.

 

Rick Taillieu

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

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Re: Stus-List One more kick at windlass for C 34

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Hi Don

We do not have a windlass but I know there are lots of threads of windlasses
for larger boats.  Might want to look there???

I once saw a 34 with windlass mounted to a large board that crossed the aft
edge of the chain locker. As I recall, the aft section of the locker cover
was cut off to accommodate.  Would not recommend it

John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 C 34
Noank, CT
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of DON
JONSSON via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, May 27, 2017 11:47 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: DON JONSSON
Subject: Stus-List One more kick at windlass for C 34

Hi All

I asked before if anyone has an electric windlass on a C 34.  Although I
got great advice no pictures of one mounted on a 34.  I'm hoping someone out
there has a C 34 with an electric windlass that they think has been set up
well and could either provide a description of where it is or a quick
picture.   So I'm asking one more time.

Thanks
Don Jonsson
Swansong, C 34
Victoria, BC

Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List It's alive!

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Congrats Dave – trust all is well

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via 
CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, May 27, 2017 1:39 PM
To: CNC CNC
Cc: David
Subject: Stus-List It's alive!

 

Engine fired up today!  Some costs and lessons;

 

Rebuilt head. $130 (still blown away at how cheap that was)

Rebuilt starter $200

Rebuilt alternator $300

Assorted gaskets etc $150

Rebuilt injectors $300

 

 

Injectors were a mess.  In retrospect it caused my crappy idle and high fuel 
consumption.  

 

Didn't take enough good pictures from enough angles. 

 

Engine manual invaluable.  

 

A clean engine bay is very soothing. 

 

Bleed screw on injection pump is very important and was, until now, an unknown 
bleed point.  

 

I now own a 2 foot socket extension without which the starter would have 
remained immovable.  

 

Learned much and I should be engine happy for many years.  

 

1981 C & C 40

Yanmar 3QM30

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone

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Re: Stus-List C 34 Moisture in rudder

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Hi Don

 

We redid our rudder a few years ago.  Crawled into stern, loosened quadrant, 
cables, etc.  Dropped it, sawed off the skins both sides, about 4 inches in 
from the edge.  The rudder is built with a frame of solid glass edging all 
around of at least 4 inches – tapping will tell you where.  The exception is in 
the bottom at mid point the edge indents so there is minimal frame and only 
skin.  This is where any drainage hole needs to be.

 

Used a dremel to dig out a channel where the stainless rudder post enters the 
rudder – this is where the water gets in.  We dug out all the deteriorated old 
foam, basically the lower half, left the good stuff in place.  Shaped the foam. 
 Beveled edges of frame.  Applied several layers of glass with epoxy.  Barrier 
coat, paint, good to go

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of DON JONSSON 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 03, 2017 12:42 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: DON JONSSON
Subject: Stus-List C 34 Moisture in rudder

 

Hi

 

I have a 1981 C 34 which I'm trying to sell, and now am concerned about the 
issues on the boat.  The biggest one is the moisture in the rudder.

 

About a foot up from the bottom of the rudder there has been a small quasi 
hole, about 1/16th of an inch, for quite a while.  When I hauled the boat water 
would seep out of it.  This year when out of the water we drilled out that hole 
and put another in the bottom.  A few drops came out, but when we blew air in 
and when the boat heated, more came out, perhaps a cup or so.  We then sealed 
with epoxy and put the boat back in.  The rudder looks good, as in no blisters, 
etc.   It pivots well with no sounds or odd vibrations. But it is wet and could 
be / is compromised.

 

My questions are:

 

1. I'm assuming the rudder is filled with foam, and that foam on my boat is 
saturated with water.  The foam is certainly delaminated from the fiberglass in 
some places.  Does anyone have any diagrams or  knowledge of how the rudder is 
constructed?

 

2. Has anyone had a similar problem?  What did you do?  What was the 
approximate cost?  My reading on the net has shown answers from many boats have 
water, don't worry about it to you will sink and die the next time you go out.  
 OK, perhaps a bit of hyperbole.

 

3. Has anyone taken their rudder off while the boat is in the water using a 
diver?  One person is recommending that as it is a busy time of year and I'm 
not sure how long or how easy it is to crawl in the back and disconnect 
quadrant, etc.  It is an old boat.  Also easier to leave the boat in the water 
while the work is done.

 

Thanks you for your help.  I have some other questions but will put them in 
different threads in the future.

 

Don

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Stus-List NAVMAN 3100

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

http://newlondon.craigslist.org/bpo/6101821833.html

 

If anyone is interested, just posted brand new NAVMAN 3100 anemometer, cable, 
junction box, owner’s manual.  I bought it hoping it would fix my Standard 
Horizon, but no such luck.

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

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Re: Stus-List Wind instrument

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Am most pleased to advise we seem to have fixed the problem in our Standard 
Horizon WS150.  In the masthead anemometer, seems the solder joints to the 
circuit boards of the connecting wires were corroded.  Two wires broke off when 
jiggled and the third was hanging on by one wire.  The wires are extremely 
light gauge, so no wonder we were having erratic readings!!!.  Resoldered all 
to the circuit board after cutting off the corroded wire.  Very precise process 
due to very small wire and tight tolerances of the circuit board.  Redid the 
linearization and recalibrated – All is well.  So our advice is if your 
instruments are older and giving erratic readings it is most likely due to 
resistance of corroded solder joints so start there first

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

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Re: Stus-List Wind instrument

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Hi Josh

 

Ebay usually works but not in this case.  There are some parts available from 
San Francisco but the seller is offering no returns, is selling as is with no 
representation if they work and the price is comparable to a new Raymarine or 
the like.  OEM has no parts.  Same for distributors.  Have tried many local / 
regional electronics shops no luck.  All indicate the parts are not repairable. 
 Can you advise your repair guy contact info and I will contact him.

 

Many thanks

 

John & Maryann

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, April 07, 2017 9:16 PM
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wind instrument

 

I was shocked when my marine repair guy told me that there were rebuild kits 
for my wind instrument.  It's a DataMarine Offshore Link Series III from the 
90's.  The point being that I don't believe this was a particularly popular or 
long lived product yet parts are available.  You might be surprised too.

 

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD

 

 

 

On Apr 7, 2017 8:59 PM, "John and Maryann Read via CnC-List" 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Asking for some collective wisdom to repair or replace the masthead transducer 
of my Standard Horizon WS 150 unit.  Wind speed is fine, but direction read 
outs are erratic.  Very certain the issue is the masthead transducer (5 pin). 
Suspect the magnet pickups are failing

 

Has been out of production for > 10 years.  Design was picked up by Navman and 
Navico but now discontinued.  Got a Navman 3100 masthead unit brand new that 
supposedly was a comparable item but does not work for close hauled.  Magnet 
orientation is quite different.  If anyone has a NAVMAN system this unit is 
available.

 

Hate to have to replace the unit due to effort involved and have matching units 
for depth and speed that work just fine.  No luck on flea bay or consignment 
shops for a direct replacement.

 

One suggestion was to try one the new Airmar WX series transducers for NMEA 2000

 

Any thoughts??

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT


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Stus-List Wind instrument

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Asking for some collective wisdom to repair or replace the masthead transducer 
of my Standard Horizon WS 150 unit.  Wind speed is fine, but direction read 
outs are erratic.  Very certain the issue is the masthead transducer (5 pin). 
Suspect the magnet pickups are failing

 

Has been out of production for > 10 years.  Design was picked up by Navman and 
Navico but now discontinued.  Got a Navman 3100 masthead unit brand new that 
supposedly was a comparable item but does not work for close hauled.  Magnet 
orientation is quite different.  If anyone has a NAVMAN system this unit is 
available.

 

Hate to have to replace the unit due to effort involved and have matching units 
for depth and speed that work just fine.  No luck on flea bay or consignment 
shops for a direct replacement.

 

One suggestion was to try one the new Airmar WX series transducers for NMEA 2000

 

Any thoughts??

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

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Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C 37/40+

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Hi Bruce

 

Any permanent leak replacement requires a removal / cleaning / new window / use 
a suitable sealer & adhesive such as Dow 795 or similar.  An interim solution 
is use 3M decorative tape (black??) and tape over the joint of window and cabin 
top.  We did this for several years and it stopped the leaks until we could do 
the permanent replacement.

 

Best of luck

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce 
Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, March 28, 2017 12:05 PM
To: C List
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C 37/40+

 

Hello again everyone,

 

Our C 37/40+ has a minor leak or two through the fixed portlights windows.  I 
have read up on the removal & re-installation process, and many seem to be 
recommending the VHB tape and Dow 795 sealer approach (or similar).  

 

I would like to seal the fixed portlights in place without replacing them for 
now.  While they are showing some crazing, and I intend to eventually replace 
them (say in 18 months or so), in the short term I simply want to stop all 
leaks so that we can prevent any further staining of the teak.  

 

Does anyone have a recommendation as far as doing this?  Should I simply 
attempt to carefully mask the fiberglass & plexiglass on the exterior and apply 
a bead of Dow 795?  

 

Would it be better to apply a thin layer on the inside?  

 

Or, am I guilty of wishful thinking?  

 

Thanks! 

 

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

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Re: Stus-List Options for getting rid of sails

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

www.seabags.com

If your sails are large enough they will make you a tote bag for free.  We
had a great experience with them


John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 C 34
Noank, CT
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom
Buscaglia via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2017 12:52 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tom Buscaglia
Subject: Stus-List Options for getting rid of sails

Sailvation Army?

Typoed from my iPhone

Tom Buscaglia
Alera 1990 C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
O 206.463.9200
C 305.409.3660
Skype - thombusc



> On Mar 25, 2017, at 8:03 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Message: 7
> Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2017 02:26:16 +
> From: Kevin Paxton 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Options for getting rid of sails
> Message-ID:
>
> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Hey everyone,
> I have a number of head sails that I need to get rid of. I was 
> wondering if any one knew of other consignment or places to sell used 
> sails to. I'm? in the Chesapeake Bay area and know of Bacon's. I was 
> actually there today having them take a look at them. But I was 
> wondering if there was anywhere else to get a second opinion on value 
> or a better deal than just 50% of sale price.
> 
> A couple that need to be disposed of that aren't useful anymore as well.
> Anywhere that may recycle or something besides just throwing away?
> 
> Thanks
> Kevin
> -- next part -- An HTML atta

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Re: Stus-List C 35-3 0.5oz spinnaker

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

HI Tim

 

Would be interested but is too big for our 34.  Have you tried bacon Sails in 
Annapolis?

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tim Goodyear 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, March 20, 2017 5:17 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tim Goodyear
Subject: Stus-List C 35-3 0.5oz spinnaker

 

As you are all getting ready for racing in the Spring, I thought I would share 
that I still have a North Sails S1.5 (1/2oz VMG) Airex spinnaker that I need to 
sell.  It was purchased in April 2015 for over $4,000, hoisted twice before I 
parted with my 35-3 and is for sale for $1,000 (plus shipping from Newport, RI).

 

Luff is 45.8'; max width 24.5'

 

Please let me know if you're interested.

 

Many thanks,

 

Tim

(ex 35-3 owner, and still listening to those C stories...)

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Stus-List Standard Horizon wind speed / direction

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Am in need of the mast top anemometer for the WS 150.  Anyone have one
hanging around or is there a local marine electronics repair facility you
could recommend??

 

Many thanks

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

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Stus-List Standard Horizon WS 150 wind instrument

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Am looking for the sending unit on the mast head - Anyone know where I could
get a used one?  These have been out of production for over 10 years and no
parts are available from Standard (Vertek)

 

Many thanks

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

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Re: Stus-List Fastening Jib Sheets

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

OK so color me a bit skeptical, but how does one attach the sheets to the soft 
shackle?  If by bowline, isn’t there still the probability of hanging up on the 
shrouds / baby stay when tacking??

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Daniel Sheer 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, December 11, 2016 11:25 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Daniel Sheer
Subject: Stus-List Fastening Jib Sheets

 

I made soft shackles for Pegathy's jib sheets. They work great. Don't hang up 
on the shrouds like bowlines do. I used 3/8 hollow braid high tech line. Used 
this technique - 

Better Soft Shackle -   


 Use the line lengths and mark measurements they compute for you. You could use 
smaller than 3/8 line.  Took the better part of an hour to make the first one. 
Then I made more for the spin sheets, spin halyard, anything I could think of. 
The more you make the less time it takes. Much better than heavy metal. Unless 
you like that kind of music.

 

Dan Sheer - Pegathy LF38 - Rock Creek off the Patapsco

 

 




Better Soft Shackle


This soft shackle is more secure and easier to use than the most common version.



 

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Re: Stus-List weeping hull

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Our 34 has a similar issue.  A weeping of a minor amount of water exiting the 
gel coat in the bilge about 4 inches aft of the mast step and one inch above 
the bilge floor.  Hull is solid except for a cored area about 4 feet from 
centerline.  Pending further examination and tests, most likely cause is the 
stringers used to reinforce the sump area for the keel loads.  Seems they can 
separate from the hull interior, allowing bilge water to enter when the boat is 
heeled, and eventually seep through when the boast is upright into the bilge.  
My thought is our issue may be related to some groundings of the past, but need 
further evaluation when things warm up in the spring.  Overall, not a 
structural and more of a nuisance than anything else.  To be continued…..

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mike Brannon 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, December 05, 2016 4:27 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mike Brannon
Subject: Re: Stus-List weeping hull

 

Jacob,  the C 36 hull is cored throughout.   The area around the keel stub is 
solid.   The area to which you refer is most likely cored.

 

Mike Brannon

Virginia Lee  93295

1978 C 36 CB 

Sent from my iPad Mini


On Nov 18, 2016, at 14:52, jacob fuerst via CnC-List  
wrote:

In my '78 C 36 I am seeing a couple spots where salt water is weeping in 
through the hull near the bilge area, appearing from seemingly nowhere as if 
from a spring. One point is about 3' back from the mast and 18" to the side. 
The other is closer to the keel but they both are on the edges of hull 
stringers. 

 

I've had a few people look at it and I've gotten everything from an estimate to 
rebed the keel (though the bolts seem fine and I had the boat out in May), to 
cutting apart the fiberglass to locate where the water is running from, to 
don't worry about it.

 

Has anyone had this happen before? How big of a deal is it? The amount of water 
is minimal but I believe they were coring the hulls. Does anyone know the exact 
cross sectional thickness of the fiberglass? Were just the sides of the boat 
cored or did they do the entire hull? How did that work where the keel meets? 
Is it possible that a through-hull is leaking and water is running up to 
several feet along the core and popping up somewhere random where it has found 
a weak spot in the fiberglass? 

 

-- 

Jacob Fuerst

303-520-4669

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Re: Stus-List Looking at C 37/40+ CB as next boat

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

I find it is very handy at fall haul out to thoroughly rinse the tank using a 
hose with nozzle attached.  This is done of course after the normal pump out.  
Just stick in the hose with pressure spray running, spray the inside and rinse 
out the inside of the tank.  Then pump out again.  Ensures tank is relatively 
clean and has only fresh water left in it.  Then I pump in antifreeze through 
the head and all is well for the winter.

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Doug Welch 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, December 05, 2016 7:48 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: doug.we...@rogers.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Looking at C 37/40+ CB as next boat

 

And the reason you want a hole large enough to stick you hand in a holding tank 
is?

 

 

On Monday, December 5, 2016 6:28 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List 
 wrote:

 

A "hand hole" is an inspection hole with a cover large enough to get a hand 
through. A "manhole" is larger allowing a man to get through.

On December 5, 2016 at 2:08 PM "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" 
 wrote:

Inspection plate???

 

From: David via CnC-List   

Sent: Monday, December 05, 2016 11:54 AM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Cc: David   

Subject: Re: Stus-List Looking at C 37/40+ CB as next boat

 

Errr...what is a "hand hole"?

 

 

 

Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone



 Original message 
From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
Date: 12/4/16 19:44 (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Josh Muckley  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Looking at C 37/40+ CB as next boat 

My holding tank is plastic but the hand hole came loose and was a considerable 
pain in the ass to fix.  The forward water tank in mine is aluminum and the 
fuel tank is aluminum.  The back stay attachments are a place for detailed 
inspection.  You'll probably find that the steering cable idlers plate, 
directly under the pedestal, is probably badly rusted.  It should be one of the 
first safety repairs.  The engine mounts may be soft and in need of replacement 
too. 

 

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD

On Sun, Dec 4, 2016, 6:28 PM Gary Russell via CnC-List  
wrote:

Hi Mark, 

 Wow!  We have a lot in common.  Last year I sold my 35 Mk II (Expresso) 
and bought my 37/40+.  I loved Expresso, but the 37+ is better in almost every 
way.  The performance difference is breathtaking.  The boat I bought was in 
pretty bad shape and I spent almost a year refitting her.  We renamed her 
"Kaylarah" after my grand daughters Kayla and Sarah.  The side windows are 
chronic problems on these boats, but almost all of them have that problem, so 
you will probably have to deal with that.  If you are, at all handy, they are 
not that hard to fix.  I can give you a lot of advice in that area.  The 
holding tank is made out of aluminum, and the tank was installed before the 
interior was installed.  Repairing/replacing the tank is a big deal.  Of 
course, you should watch out for the usual punky cored deck.  Otherwise she is 
a good boat with minimal problems.  Text me if you need specific advice.  There 
are a lot of 37/40+ owners on this forum and they have a lot of helpful 
knowledge.

 

Good luck,

Gary

S/V Kaylarah

'90 C 37+

East Greenwich, RI, USA

 

~~~_/)~~

 

On Sun, Dec 4, 2016 at 6:48 PM, Mark via CnC-List  wrote:

I am looking at a 1993 C 37/40+ CB model as our next boat. My first big boat 
was a 1974 C 27 which I had to 12 years, then upgraded to a 1975 C 35 MKII 
in 1992. After 25 years (come February) on the best boat ever built, I'm 
looking to upgrade to something a little more cruising, but with C 
performance. Given that requirement, it seems reasonable that I should stick 
with C

I've read through the all the email lists concerning the C 37+ and most 
everything looks positive. The boat I'm looking at is listed in Marco Island 
and immediately needs hatches and windows. I looked at it over the Thanksgiving 
holidays, and other that those issues, it seems quite basic; doesn't appear to 
have been raced hard (i.e. no spin hardware & Dacron sails) and not much in 
cruising upgrades (i.e. needs windless, davits, etc.). Could be a good platform 
to start with.

For you C 37/40+ owners out there, is there any thing I should pay close 
attention to other than engine condition & standing rigging condition that 
could bite me.

Thanks,
Mark Baldridge
~~_/)
'75 C MKII "The Edge"
Surf City, NC


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Re: Stus-List Kanzaki transmission oil change

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Mike

 

Have the same set up.  No drain plug on the Kanzaki.  Only way to change oil is 
vacuum / pump thru the dip stick.  Be very careful when filling to get correct 
amount of oil.  To mark on dip stick with it screwed in all the way.  I believe 
straight 30W is recommended??

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 29, 2016 8:31 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike
Subject: Stus-List Kanzaki transmission oil change

 

HI

 

Persistence has Yanmar 3GM30F with Kanzaki KM3P transmission.  The filler and 
dipstick cap is accessible on the top and I think there is a drain plug on the 
side somewhere that is far less accessible.  My current thoughts are that I 
should be able to drain the transmission oil from the filler/dipstick opening 
using an oil removal pump in the same manner as I drain the engine oil.  I am 
thinking the vacuum style oil change pump with a long enough hose to make 
access relatively easy

 

Is this a common practice and would it work?

 

Mike

Persistence 

Halifax, NS

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Re: Stus-List Folding Prop won't open

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Ditto to Dave’s comment.  Our Yanmar 3GM is mounted to a Kanzaki transmission 
that was slipping.  Symptoms were prop did not open symmetrically because was 
not spinning enough so lots of vibration, when it did fully open the shaft was 
not spinning at a rate consistent with the throttle.  No obvious issues with 
the prop manually opening when hauled.  Pulled transmission, got it rebuilt.  
Biggest expense was OEM rebuild kit and needed new cone gear as was polished.  
Reinstalled and problem solved.  When reinstalling it is very important to 
ensure the shift cable is adjusted so the transmission lever is fully engaged 
before the lever on the binnacle is at the end of its travel – ie there is some 
remaining movement for the spring fitting that attaches the cable to the 
transmission lever.  In our case that meant attaching to the inner transmission 
lever hole.  Also, an annual maintenance item is to oil the spring fitting.

 

FWIW, here is the info on my rebuilder.  He is the person who did all the 
transmission work for Mack Boring when they were in the business of rebuilding 
and apparently there are some tricks of the trade to correctly rebuild.  
Shipping was by parcel post, he was very informative and easy to work with.  I 
had the unit returned to me in 7 days.  No affiliation just a happy customer.

 

Rick Neary

East Coast Marine Transmission

253 Vineyard Ave

South Amboy, NJ  08879

732-991-0694

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave S via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, October 25, 2016 11:02 AM
To: C Stus List
Cc: Dave S
Subject: Stus-List Folding Prop won't open

 

Make sure it's the prop.   I threw a ton of money at similar symptoms before 
learning that the transmission was slipping.  (bang bang bang in forward only, 
and intermittently, though progressively less so.)  

Pulled the gearbox and did the repair myself in an evening for less than  $100 
after replacing a lot of stuff.   

 

Dave.

 

 

 

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2016 11:43:15 +
From: Kevin Paxton 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Folding Prop won't open
Message-ID:
 >
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Hey guys, with all of the discussion on props it reminded me that I'm
having an issue with my 2 blade folding prop. Pretty sure it's the Martec
that you all are mentioning.

I continue to have issues with one blade not opening after we've been out
sailing. Once we drop the sails and go to engage the engine and prop it
fails to open one side and I get severe vibrations. Is this a normal thing
with these props? It truly makes me want to just get a fixed prop.
Unfortunately that's not in the budget right now though.

So far I've tried:

   - to come to a complete stop and try again
   - Kick it into reverse and then back to forward
   - short kick to full throttle.

The last time we were out nothing worked. We ended up limping along back to
our slip. Afterwards I checked it by rotating it from the inside and it
sounded like both blades would open when it was facing down because I heard
the clunk.

Occasionally it will open but it's not a first time thing. On departure
from the slip I don't have any issues, it's only when trying to reengage
the motor after a sail. It's really frustrating, any ideas?

Kevin Paxton
'82 34 #473
Japhys Spirit
Cornfield Creek, Magothy River, MD

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Re: Stus-List Yanmar diesel

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Interesting – I have always put throttle a tad above slow idle and starts just 
fine

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jack Brennan 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, October 09, 2016 10:55 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jack Brennan
Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar diesel

 

This may be basic, but are you folks giving it 3/4 to full throttle when you 
crank, as suggested by the Yanmar manual? After it starts, you immediately pull 
back to idle to let the oil circulate.

 

When I got my first diesel-powered sailboat with a diesel. I didn’t know to do 
this and sometimes had long cranks to start. Now it catches almost immediately.

 

Jack Brennan

Former C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.

 

 

 

  _  


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Re: Stus-List C 34 For Sale

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Am familiar with the boat, damage of the grounding (not that bad) and repairs.  
The boat is like new.  Contact me off list if you wish to discuss

 

John

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 05, 2016 3:38 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Cc: David Knecht
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 34 For Sale

 

That C 34 turns out to be my old boat, sold to someone at our club in 2010.  
It ended up on the rocks after a squall last year and was declared a total 
loss.  The local glass/paint shop (considered the best in the area) picked it 
up as a project boat and completely repaired the hull damage.  I saw it this 
summer on the hard after the work and it looked brand new.  They really did an 
awesome job restoring her to mint condition.  I have not seen the inside, and 
don’t know details of the damage and the repair.   I had the engine rebuilt the 
year I sold it, so I think it likely to be a really nice boat (IMHO).  Dave

 

Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT







On Oct 5, 2016, at 9:11 AM, Robert Gallagher via CnC-List 
 wrote:

http://newlondon.craigslist.org/boa/5811131453.html

This boat is in my marina.  I have not seen the interior, the hull and decks 
are like new.  Not exaggerating here, it looks like it just came out of the 
showroom with upgraded non-skid.

I can't imagine it would cost any less than 15K to make any boat this age look 
like this.  The owner also happens to own a glass/Awlgrip shop.

Disclaimer:  I have met the owner a few times very briefly as his shop is in my 
area and I got an estimate from him a long time ago, I no nothing about this 
boat except that it looks great.

If anyone is looking for a C, this is probably worth a look.

...Rumor around the marina is that the wife wants a powerboat...I can't vouch 
for that either :)



Rob
30MKII
Hanuman
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Re: Stus-List Freeze/thaw issues in lead keels

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Will second Bill's comment.  Two years ago a C 37 was in our boat yard for
the winter with a keel that was not well attached to the keel stub.  The
keel nuts would not tighten but slipped on the bolt threads.  Dropped the
keel to discover the bolts had not been sealed at manufacture allowing bilge
water in causing crevice corrosion to the point the threads were damaged.
This allowed keel movement elongating the holes in the stub which allowed
more leakage / corrosion.  Solution was to ship the keel to foundry for
repair and new bolts, repair stub holes, allow everything to thoroughly dry,
reinstall with good sealer all around.  Major job to say the least.

 

Dave's photos look like a similar problem - best of luck in repairing

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bina
- gmail via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 26, 2016 11:15 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Bina - gmail
Subject: Re: Stus-List Freeze/thaw issues in lead keels

 

Sealing keelbolts or filling the holes with anyting is more likely to
accelerate crevice corrosion. Any attempts to protect keelbolts needs to
center around keeping them bone dry. You sure do not want to seal in, or
encapsulate any moisture!

Bill Bina

 

On 9/26/2016 11:09 AM, Ron Ricci via CnC-List wrote:

Wow!  My boat had this but nowhere near as pronounced.  It shows itself as a
pink "ooze" coming out of a couple of minor blisters below the keel-hull
joint.  I have been putting about 3 gallons of antifreeze in the bilge each
winter to prevent any water that gets in the bilge from freezing, hence the
pink color.  Hopefully adding the antifreeze has prevented the problem from
getting worse.  

 

I do intend to undo the keel bolt nuts, seal around the keel bolts with
butyl rubber and torque the bolts.  Anyone have any thoughts on this?

 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave S
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, September 25, 2016 9:10 AM
To: C Stus List
Cc: Dave S
Subject: Stus-List Freeze/thaw issues in lead keels

 

Good morning all.  Several weeks back there was a discussion surrounding
issues with bulging keel castings in colder climates.   Been meaning to post
some photos I took awhile back, here they are:

 

 

http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/

 

 

Dave 33-2 Windstar






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Re: Stus-List 2016 Northeast Rendezvous

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Rob

 

Many thanks for coordinating this event and so sorry we were not able to attend

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert 
Gallagher via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2016 1:21 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Robert Gallagher
Subject: Stus-List 2016 Northeast Rendezvous

 

Listers,

 

This years Northeast Rendezvous has come to an end. The Mystic Seaport staff 
gave us an amazing tour of their behind the scenes world and a fascinating 
Amistad themed planetarium show.  To top it all off we viewed Saturn, Polaris, 
Mars and more through a telescope they set up riverside by the Morgan.

 

Recipe for a very special long weekend:

Old friends

New friends

Tall ships & small ships

Classic plastic C yachts

Art

Science

Seafaring Americana,

A big splash of whiskey

Mix with crushed ice and sunshine, serve with a good meal

 

We didn't have the numbers attending this year that we have had in previous 
years but it was a blast. Don Sweeney has plans underway for next years event. 
Let's help him keep keep the tradition alive.

 

Ama and I are already looking forward to Greenport, NY next year.

 

Big thanks to all,

 

Rob Gallagher

88 30 MKII

HANUMAN

 

Sent from my device so excuse the typos. 

 

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Re: Stus-List STANDARD HORIZON WS 45 APPAARENT WIND INDICATOR

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Hi Alex

 

Had similar issues with our Horizon WS unit.  We checked continuity of wire
from masthead to unit and all was well.  The masthead unit is a pretty
simple affair but does include electronics that can corrode / wear over
time.  I disassembled, sprayed with electronic cleaner put it all back
together and seems to be working OK.  My plan is to disassemble over the
winter, thoroughly clean and dry and hope for the best next year.  Suggest
check your continuity, ensure clean connections and give your mast head unit
some TLC

 

My 2 cents American

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Alex
Giannelia via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 07, 2016 3:34 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Alex Giannelia
Subject: Stus-List STANDARD HORIZON WS 45 APPAARENT WIND INDICATOR

 

I have a WS45 Wind Indicator which for the first few years (2004-2006)
worked fine, then the speed stopped showing.  Later, I tried to connect
directly to the instrument and at that time thought it worked fine so when I
had the boat on the hard, I sent it to the distributor who said it works
fine.

 

Subsequently, on the mast, it won't even calibrate, so I now suspect the
assembly which starts at the masthead and is supposed to connect to the
instrument.  As these are no longer in production, I was wondering if a
lister replaced his and would be willing to part with the old one, or has a
suggestion how to build the box and shielded cable assembly to replace what
I have installed.

 

Alex Giannelia

C 35-II (1974) no 282

a...@airsensing.com

 

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Re: Stus-List Fixing window leak

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

For a short term fix just use tape to seal the window – be careful not to 
stretch it too much

 

John & Maryann

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jeremy Ralph 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 29, 2016 5:55 PM
To: Franklin Schenk
Cc: Jeremy Ralph; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fixing window leak

 

 

I finally got to looking at the windows again. The screws are about 12" apart. 
Ill try tightening but sounds like I may need to add more screws.

Thanks,

  Jeremy

On Monday, 8 August 2016, Franklin Schenk  > wrote:

As a lazy person I try the easy things first like tightening the screws.  What 
is the spacing of the screws?  6 to 8 inches is about right.

 

Frank

 

On Monday, August 8, 2016 1:31 PM, Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List 
 wrote:

 

Our first season with a 1978 C 34-1.  The PO re-did the windows using 
plexiglass over the openings bedded with Sudbury Sealant (found half the tube 
on the boat) and screws.  One window has a slight leak that seems to come in 
from the top of the plexi where water can collect.  I'd like to do a quick fix 
for the rest of the cursing season, then a more involved longer term solution 
(if required) when the season is over.  Any tips?

 

Thanks,

  Jeremy

 


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Stus-List Hard starting

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Our 3GM is exhibiting periodic hard start symptoms of just a click of the
solenoid when you push the starter button and on the third try starts just
fine.  Sometimes starts just fine on first try.  Applies to only one of our
two batteries.  We recall a thread on this subject a while ago but do not
recall the solutions.  Can you point me to the thread??

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

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Stus-List Depth meter transducer

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Have an old Horizon instrument package including digital depth meter which
has been out of production for many years and parts are no longer available.
It operates well but erratically.  Sometimes reads accurately, sometimes
just 2 short lines indicating power is on but no signal to the head, then
returns to reading OK.  Have inspected all wiring.  Cleaned transducer face.
Suspect transducer has given up the ghost.  Any ideas on how to verify?  If
so I recall a thread which identified to manufacturer of most transducers.
Does anyone recall who that is and know contact info??

 

Many thanks

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

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Re: Stus-List Boat cover and sails for C 34 (1977)

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Hi Andrew

 

Does it have a frame??  Is it all one piece? Approximate weight? Does it have 
access doors?  Any photos?  If applicable can you advise the PO contact info to 
get answers?

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew Means 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 04, 2016 4:02 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Means
Subject: Stus-List Boat cover and sails for C 34 (1977)

 

Hey all - 

 

Safari came with a full boat cover that we don’t have storage space for and I’d 
like to offer it to anybody on the list. You’d have to come pick it up or make 
arrangements to ship, but I won’t charge you anything for it. It’s blue 
sunbrella material and it looks to be in pretty good condition. I haven’t seen 
it on the boat yet.

 

I’ve also got a used main sail: Staaf Sails paneled - dacron luff / kevlar 
laminate leech - needs some slight repairs if anybody wants it for a spare. 

 

Andrew

 

 

-- 
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I

Seattle, WA

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Re: Stus-List Bulkheads separated from cabin top (C 34)

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Hi Andrew



As near as we can tell, the upper bulkhead is not bonded to the deck – and for 
a reason.  C’s do flex a bit as they sail – especially as they bash to 
windward.  The lack of this bond allows this flex to happen – all well and good 
as the stresses are dispersed throughout the entire hull.  That said, the flex 
is moderated / controlled by a stainless “T” tang that is attached by bolts 
through the deck and also through the bulkhead.  Ours was leaking a bit which 
we fixed by rebedding in butyl.  Your photos seem to show a glue used to affix 
the head liner (not the deck) to the bulkhead has failed but do not think it is 
of great concern as was not structural in the first place.  Overall, a 
noteworthy observation of minimal consequence so go sailing and have some fun





John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew Means 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 27, 2016 5:15 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Means
Subject: Stus-List Bulkheads separated from cabin top (C 34)



Hey all -



Last week while S.V. Safari was bashing upwind offshore en route to Tofino BC I 
noticed that the forward bulkheads were creaking. Upon closer inspection I 
realized that they had separated entirely from the cabin top by moving inboard 
about 1.5cm.



Here’s the port bulkhead: http://imgur.com/Meqa58I

And here’s the starboard: http://imgur.com/MIZHoiG



The ends of both bulkheads are prevented from moving farther inward by the 
termination of the slots in the fiberglass ceiling that they’re nested in. You 
can see in the photos that they were at one point glued in.



The bottoms of the bulkheads seem to be very well fiberglassed in to the hull, 
and there’s no sign of breakage along the lower parts. The bulkheads that form 
the forward walls of the hanging locker and bathroom are also separated too, by 
what looks like the same amount.



Looking at previous photos it looks like they’ve been like this since before we 
bought the boat. They’re not loose at all, they seem very well set in place.



Questions:

1. Is this a common problem?

2. How in the world would we fix this?

3. How critical is it to fix this immediately? Were we courting disaster to 
push the boat hard offshore?





--
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I

Seattle, WA



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Re: Stus-List Awful Vibration - now transmission cable adjustment

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

We had similar issues with our 3GM30 with Kanzaki transmission about 5 years 
ago.  The shaft was not turning fast enough until RPM’s got up to a certain 
point then would sort of fully engage but the blades were not symmetrically 
deployed causing the vibration.  Cause was the transmission cone and matching 
part were not quite fully engaged causing a polishing and slippage.  Very long 
story short, got it rebuilt twice – the first guy messed it up and is now fine. 
 An essential element of the rebuild is to ensure the shift lever is properly 
shimmed so the cone is fully engaged at the lever stop – a skill I am told only 
a mechanic with Kanzaki experience really understands



An essential item of this is to ensure the spring loaded attachment on the 
cable end is properly adjusted such that the lever on the transmission is fully 
engaged before the lever on the pedestal reaches its end of travel  in both 
forward and reverse.  In other words, when the transmission is fully in gear 
you have additional travel of the pedestal lever before its end of travel.  You 
can feel the spring resistance.  In our case, using the bracket on the engine, 
we set the cable so that at neutral the pedestal lever was at mid point.  There 
are two attachment holes on the transmission lever.  We use the inner one as 
the outer one has too much travel to permit the spring action.  A recommended 
annual maintenance item is to put a drop or two of oil into this spring and 
ensure it moves freely in both directions.



My two cents American



John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT



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Stus-List Standard Horizon Windspeed

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Just circling back on the fix for my WS150 instrument which is at least 20
years old.  You may recall I was getting erratic readings.  Removed the
sending unit from mast head, plugged into receiver and worked fine.
Continuity from mast junction to receiver was fine.  Took sending unit home,
disassembled and discovered small circuit boards for both the speed and
angle.  Everything looked OK.  Sprayed in electronic cleaner, let dry and
reassembled.   Attached to receiver, worked fine and calibrated.  Yesterday
crew went aloft and continuity of wire in mast is fine.  Reinstalled sending
to mast head -  works fine!!  Best guess is the sending unit design is a
sleeve within a sleeve with an o ring sealer.  After many years salt air and
condensation fouled something in the circuit boards that became an issue
with the longer wire run of the mast given the very small wire gauge and
sensitivity of the unit.  Apparently the cleaner resolved.

 

Hope this helps someone else in the future.

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III


1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 



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Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux Brightside/Interlux Prekote

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Great job and nice write up on your experiences.  Thanks for sharing



John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jake 
Brodersen via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2016 9:30 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jake Brodersen
Subject: Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux 
Brightside/Interlux Prekote



Ryan,



An outstanding job.  Excellent gloss.  Thanks for sharing your experience.



Jake



Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA







From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan Doyle 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2016 11:46
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ryan Doyle 
Subject: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux Brightside/Interlux 
Prekote



Hey all,



I've got the day off, so I wanted to post my experience as a first-time boat 
painter repainting the topsides of my 1976 C 30 with Interlux Brightside and 
Interlux Prekote.  I made some small, but dumb mistakes during this process.  
I'm sure the experts will have a little laugh at my expense, but hopefully this 
post will save other first-time painters some grief.



When I bought my boat back in October, I knew I was going to repaint her.  The 
hull was robin's egg blue... which many people think is a beautiful color, but 
I don't.  The paint job was sloppy with lots of thick brush marks, and it had 
been worn off in a few places from rubbing of her lines and fenders.



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Stus-List Standard Horizon 150 wind instrument - cable needed

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

In need of replacement masthead cable for Standard Horizon Model 150 wind
speed / direction.  Anyone have one?

Many thanks

John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 C 34
Noank, CT


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Re: Stus-List Transmission repair / rebuild

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Hi Josh



$500 labor

$600 OEM rebuild kit (bearings, seals and such)



Symptoms are when shift lever on transmission is fully engaged but shaft does 
not turn as rapidly as should, especially at lower engine speeds.  First verify 
lever is fully engaged on the transmission and is not hung up in the cabling.  
The Kanzaki is a cone gear design which if not correctly engaged the cone 
rapidly becomes glazed which prevents proper engagement with the mating gear.  
The lever attaches to the cable with a double spring coupling.  With the 
transmission fully in gear, there should be additional travel in the shift 
lever on the steering pedestal, compressing the spring. If not, the cable needs 
adjusting.  The spring coupling is an annual maintenance item to put a few 
drops of oil to ensure free operation.



Another issue is our model has been out of production for some time so a new 
replacement is difficult to obtain.  There is an “upgrade” model that 
supposedly is a direct replacement, but several local marine mechanics do not 
think highly of it as the gears are not as durable



John & Maryann



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, May 21, 2016 6:52 PM
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Transmission repair / rebuild



Cost?  If you don't mind...

What were the symptoms of a slipping transmission?

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
Yanmar 3HM35F w/Kanzaki

On May 21, 2016 6:21 PM, "John and Maryann Read via CnC-List" 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Just passing on a good experience for the good of the order.  Have a Yanmar 3GM 
with Kanzaki transmission.  Transmission was slipping.  Had my transmission 
rebuilt by the following.  One week turnaround.  Two year warranty.  Cost very 
reasonable.  Uses OEM bearings, seals etc.  He reman’d a gear no charge.  
Shipped via US Parcel Post $25 each way.  He operates by himself and was 
formerly the tech who rebuilt transmissions sent to Mack Boring -  the east 
coast distributor for Yanmar.  Mack got out of the rebuild business, set up a 
subsidiary to do the rebuilds and subsequently shut that down.  Rick is very 
knowledgeable and helpful and all he does is marine transmissions.



Rick Neary

East Coast Marine Transmissions

253 Vineyard Ave

South Amboy, NJ  08879

732-991-0694



Usual disclaimers



John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT






 
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Stus-List Transmission repair / rebuild

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Just passing on a good experience for the good of the order.  Have a Yanmar
3GM with Kanzaki transmission.  Transmission was slipping.  Had my
transmission rebuilt by the following.  One week turnaround.  Two year
warranty.  Cost very reasonable.  Uses OEM bearings, seals etc.  He reman'd
a gear no charge.  Shipped via US Parcel Post $25 each way.  He operates by
himself and was formerly the tech who rebuilt transmissions sent to Mack
Boring -  the east coast distributor for Yanmar.  Mack got out of the
rebuild business, set up a subsidiary to do the rebuilds and subsequently
shut that down.  Rick is very knowledgeable and helpful and all he does is
marine transmissions.

 

Rick Neary

East Coast Marine Transmissions

253 Vineyard Ave

South Amboy, NJ  08879

732-991-0694

 

Usual disclaimers

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 



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Stus-List Bottom Paint

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Have 2 half full gallons of Interlux CSC - one blue and one red.  Perfectly
fine paint - I changed brands last year.  $75 each.  Local pick up

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT



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Re: Stus-List Headliner plugs

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Hi David

 

Johnsons Hardware on Route 1 in Groton / Poquonnock Bridge

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Knecht via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, March 28, 2016 8:17 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Cc: David Knecht
Subject: Stus-List Headliner plugs

 

Does anyone know where to get the 1" plastic caps that cover holes drilled
through the headliner?  Thanks- Dave

 

Aries

1990 C 34+

New London, CT




 



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Re: Stus-List Extending our winter vacation

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Stu and Gladys

 

Sorry to hear of your misfortune and wishing you a speedy and complete
recovery

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stu via
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, March 14, 2016 6:06 PM
To: C Email List
Cc: Stu
Subject: Stus-List Extending our winter vacation

 

Well we planned on leaving Florida the first part of April, but due to
unfortunate circumstances, we have to delay going home.

 

Thursday night, Gladys was out walking and happened to slip off the pavement
inside the resort.  After almost 8 hours in emergency, they told us she had
a broken wrist.  It looked serious enough that we had to book with an
orthopedic doctor as soon as possible.

 

Today was the appointment and tomorrow is the surgery.  She is having a
permanent plate installed in the wrist.  Follow-up checks should last 4
weeks and then we can start thinking about going home.

 

Even though we are covered by insurance, the hospital and doctors bill us
and we submit the claims.  But the surgery was money up front.

 

If you want to order C vinyl decals or a new C burgee, you will have to
wait until we get home.

 

Stu

Image removed by sender.



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Re: Stus-List determining PHRF rating

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Paul

Yours is most likely a sistership to our 34, which is very different from
the other 34's listed. Our PHRF in Long Island sound with full keel is 144


John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 C 34  hull 464
Noank, CT

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Paul Hood
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, February 29, 2016 8:45 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Paul Hood
Subject: Stus-List determining PHRF rating

I'm looking for the PHRF rating on my boat and came across the C site.
There are 10 models listed and I don't have a clue where mine fits in all of
this. Would I use the Lake Ontario rating or the Manufacturers rating...or,
do I look totally elsewhere?

34 FOOT
34 FOOT CB
34 FOOT + DK
34 FOOT + WK
34 FOOT R
34 FOOT XL
34/36 FOOT
34/36 FOOT R
34/36 FOOT XL
34/36 FOOT WK

Paul Hood
'82 C Georgian Bay, ON




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Stus-List Dodger for 34

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

We are considering a dodger for our 34.  Any recommendations for local sources? 
 Any thoughts on pros or cons of a traditional versus California style?  Any 
hints at things we should be looking for (or to avoid)?



As always, your thoughts are much appreciated



John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT





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Re: Stus-List When to reef C 33-2

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Depends on if you are racing or cruising, sea state, wind conditions and what 
headsail you are using – to say nothing of what the Admiral will tolerate.  If 
you are consistently heeling more that 10 or 15 degrees, it is time to think 
about reducing sail.  One way to do that is size the headsail appropriately.  
If it is too big, the start reefing.  Reefing early is better than waiting



Just experiment – it will become self evident very quickly



John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Doug Welch 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, February 10, 2016 8:42 PM
To: C List
Cc: doug.we...@rogers.com
Subject: Stus-List When to reef C 33-2



Can't wait for spring to get out on our (new to us) 33-2. Looking for input on 
when folks start to reef.





Cheers,

Doug



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Re: Stus-List Bottom paint help needed

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Curtis



Where are you located?  I have a half gallon or so of Ultra for discounted 
price if you are local





John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Curtis via 
CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, January 09, 2016 10:39 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Curtis
Subject: Stus-List Bottom paint help needed



Interlux Ultra with Biolux. How much paint should I need to paint my C 30 MK1 
with 2 coats?

30 foot long and 10 foot beam?



--

Best regards,

Curtis McDaniel,

C 30-MK1 East Coast Lady

Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you 
didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away 
from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. 
Discover.  -Mark Twain
http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/



  cpt.b...@gmail.com



 __/) 

.






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Stus-List Baby stay track end cap

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Our baby stay is attached to the deck via Kenyon 1 1/4 inch traveler using 
track model 1169.  The track is an extrusion with 2 vertical and 2 horizontal 
surfaces with hollow center.   The jib sheets can get caught and chafed on the 
forward edge so am looking for a cap to cover the end and provide a smooth 
surface.  Tried Rigrite who list the cap on their web site but they advise they 
are no longer available.  Defender has several on its web site, but are for 
slipping over current track designs and will not fit



Any thoughts?





John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT



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Re: Stus-List C 33 mark 2 (1985)

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Ours has OEM 3GM30 = 24 hp with folding 2 blade Martec prop.  Works well in all 
conditions.  Know some owners of sisterships with 2GM that advise works well 
until get into chop or wind then is underpowered





John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bob Hickson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, December 13, 2015 1:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bob Hickson
Subject: Stus-List C 33 mark 2 (1985)





A good friend is interested in making an offer on a 33 mark 2 centerboard 
version. The boat has a Yanmar 2GM20 with a 2 blade feathering prop - 16 Hp. 
This is the basically the same engine that I have in my 29 mk 2. It would seem 
that the boat would be underpowered with this engine. Does anyone have 
information that might help to answer this question. Did C offer an option of 
the 2GM or 3GM engine in this boat?



Bob Hickson

Flying Colours 29 mk 2

Toronto





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Re: Stus-List Keel repair

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

David

 

Is your insurance up to date and premium paid??  A hard grounding that
removes lead is by definition a serious stress on the keel and associated
hull structure and needs to be addressed.  Suggest you immediately file a
claim and have a reputable fiberglass guy inspect your keel, sump,
surrounding hull and interior.  Get whatever needs to be fixed fixed and be
confident in your boat's integrity.  Remember that a crack shows something
has in fact failed - the only question is how bad??  Arguably the best
fiberglass guy in these parts is Nick Sahin at Fort Rachel

 

Best of luck

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Knecht via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, November 19, 2015 10:13 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Cc: David Knecht
Subject: Stus-List Keel repair

 

Aries is now finally out of the water and I had a chance to survey the
damage to the keel from my encounter with Melton Ledge last summer.  I
actually received a special award from the Race Committee for going up on
the ledge during a race and needing to be towed off.  In my defense, the
marker buoy was 100 yards from where it was supposed to be and the Coast
Guard repositioned it after I alerted them to the problem.  

The front edge of the keel is well smashed in over about a 6 inch area where
it looks like the lead is actually missing.  I had presumed I would pound it
back into shape and then smooth, but that does not look possible now that I
see it.  The guy who helps out in the yard suggested using Marine Tex epoxy
putty to fill in the missing volume and then smooth (angle grinder?)  I am
hoping that the experts on this list can give me some guidance as to how to
tackle the repair.  Thanks- Dave

 

Aries

1990 C 34+

New London, CT




 



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Re: Stus-List Winterizing the Holding Tank

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

David



Yes pump it out (think of what happens if the contents are allowed to ferment 
for 6 months).  Then flush with fresh water and pump dry.  Then apply antifreeze



Cheers





John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, November 20, 2015 8:00 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Cc: David Knecht
Subject: Stus-List Winterizing the Holding Tank



Do people worry about emptying the holding tank for winter storage?  Both boats 
I have bought had stuff left in the holding tank when I took ownership, and 
there was no damage, so I have presumed that with plenty of expansion room in 
the tank, it won’t be a problem.  I have flushed some antifreeze through the 
lines, but the tank is about 1/3 full at present.  Has anyone ever had freezing 
damage to their tank?  Thanks- Dave



Aries

1990 C 34+

New London, CT








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Stus-List Water pump servicing

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Finally got around to servicing the pumps on our Yanmar 3GM.  It has the 
Sendure aftermarket cooling system so has a Yanmar OEM engine circulating water 
pump and a Jabsco raw water pump.  Need impellers, gasket and new screws for 
the face plate.  Question is where to readily source these.



A Google search discloses:



Crowley   Yanmar impeller 104211-42071

Pump Agents Jabsco pump model 2760-0001 impeller 4528-0001



Any suggestions for sources?





John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT



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Stus-List Shift / throttle cables

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Have removed the shift and throttle cables as they were stiff and had excessive 
resistance.  Not surprising as they are OEM and 33 years old.  Any thoughts on 
suitable replacement and where to purchase??



On a related note, our Yanmar 3GM throttle has a built in internal spring that 
applies increasing resistance as the throttle is opened more.  The OEM fix was 
to put an adjustable crimp in the cable but that seems less than ideal.  Any 
thoughts as to how to offset the internal spring??



Many thanks for your thoughts



John & Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT



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Re: Stus-List Bermuda1-2 lessons learned

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

David

 

Have used cotter rings for years - no issues.  Be sure you use rings that
both ends are flush with the ring - one end does not bend into the circle.
Using pliers makes it easy to install or remove

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Knecht via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, October 27, 2015 10:12 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Cc: David Knecht
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bermuda1-2 lessons learned

 

I saw a boat recently which had large cotter rings through the turnbuckles
instead of cotter pins.  This looked like a great idea to me as I sometimes
find it difficult to get bent cotter pins back out of the turnbuckles.  Any
down side of using rings instead of pins?  Dave

 

On Oct 27, 2015, at 8:07 PM, David Paine via CnC-List
 wrote:





Answers for Patrick:

 

> 3) 

Is the exhaust hose looped up?  Yes but not enough.  Usually there is a
flapper valve on the exhaust but the reverse transom angle and the angled
cut of the exhaust make commercial ones unusable.

 

4) Does your fuel tank vent line not have a check valve in it?  (1-way valve
to allow air egress but prevent water ingress)  Or was the check valve not
working? 

 

No check valve and in any case, a check valve allows flow of air or water in
only one direction.  If it were put in correctly the fuel couldn't get out
but displacement air and water could. 

 

9) What do you mean by "wire" a turnbuckle?  Did your turnbuckles not have
cotter pins in them on the upper stays?  (Is running without pins actually
something people do??)

 

Heck yeah, who uses cotter pins?  I use stainless steel wire through the
hole in both screws and through the body of the turnbuckle..  Cheap and
easy. 

 

 

 

On Tue, Oct 27, 2015 at 11:51 AM,  wrote:

 

-- Forwarded message --
From: David Paine 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: 
Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2015 14:50:37 -0400
Subject: Stus-List Bermuda1-2 lessons learned

Hi All,

 

As I mentioned last spring as part of a question about life rafts, I had
planned to sail  my C  solo to Bermuda and back (double handed) in the
Bermuda1-2 race.  I did,  It was fun, it was terrifying, it was expensive to
prepare for, and it was frustrating as I did not do well (dfl) in my class
in part because of the high winds and seas near the gulf stream probably
favored the  HR49 and other heavyweights in my class but mostly because I
was climbing a steep learning curve.   Of course, a C won the return
and did well on the way there so (in my case) it's the sailor not the boat.
In preparation for the next one, I need to resolve a few issues with the
boat and a lot with the skipper.  I was putting together a list that I
thought I would share.

 

(1)  The autopilot has to be more than bullet proof.   I thought my below
deck pilot was, but I was wrong, and as a result I found myself upside down
in the cockpit locker and crawling deep underneath the cockpit floor in
horrible conditions to tighten bolts that allowed the tiller arm to slip (no
woodruff key or slot to put it in).  I lost a lot of time bobbing around
with the sails down repairing the autopilot or sleeping.   The fix for this
one is obvious but will require dismantling the quadrant and figuring out
how to bolt the tiller arm to it.  Other issues with the autopilot were
completely my own fault as I made changes to the electronics but did not
have time to proof test the changes.  

 

(2) When a wave fills the cockpit and it gets flooded (and it did
repeatedly) the engine instruments are going to get wet.  This is not good
as the switches will (and did) fail, I am considering relocation or creating
a waterproof cover.

 

(3) Following seas WILL drive water up the tailpipe and into the engine.  As
a result, I sailed into St Georges harbor and up to the customs dock then I
spent a day in Bermuda sucking water out of the engine and drying it out
enough to get it started.   For the return trip, I put a plug in the exhaust
pipe but the plug was washed out in the "washing machine like conditions"
and ... we got to sail the boat into the Newport Yacht Club dock at 3:00 am
on no sleep.  Then spend another day pumping oily water out of the engine.
Yeah, slow learner.  

 

(4)  The fuel tank vent on my boat is high up on the starboard side but by
the time I got to Bermuda, the tank had a quart of water in it (which I
siphoned out).  Good filters (a racor) helped but I need to relocate the
vent -- the question is where?  It may not be wise but on the return trip I
wrapped the vent with tape (which, if I had run the engine I would have
removed)   A better solution is needed.

 

(5)  Reefing has to be quick and easy -- I spent far too much time screwing
up enough courage to go to the mast to reef and shake-out.  My current
reefing system (probably original to the boat) has a winch on the boom which
makes 

Re: Stus-List Recycling old dodger

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Hi Tim



We might be interested in giving these a good home.  Can you please advise the 
vertical dimension from the deck fitting to the peak of the bow?  Will measure 
ours tomorrow to see what will fit





John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tim Goodyear 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, October 17, 2015 3:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tim Goodyear
Subject: Re: Stus-List Recycling old dodger



The stainless dodger bows are 79" across, and here are some photographs:



https://goo.gl/photos/Rpo3E8DA25y8vNYf7



Available to a good home if any use to anyone.  All stitching needs to be 
replaced, but the cloth is not bad and it's a fair template to base a new one 
one.



Thanks,



Tim

Mojito

C 35-3

Branford, CT



On Tue, Oct 13, 2015 at 4:54 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
wrote:

Tim,

Post the width of the bow as a start.  I don't need it but I recycled one off a 
Pearson 365 for my aft Bimini.  Creatively mounted it on the stern pulpit to 
get the right height.

Dennis C.

On Oct 13, 2015 3:47 PM, "Tim Goodyear via CnC-List"  
wrote:

I replaced the dodger on my 35-3 earlier this year with a different shaped 
version and now have the old bows sitting in my garden.  Does anyone know if 
they would be useful to anyone rather than throwing them away?  I have the old 
dodger too - the cloth is OK'ish, but *all* the stitching disintegrated at the 
same time.



Thanks,



Tim

Soon to be an ex-C owner (I hope you'll still let me lurk)

Branford, CT



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Re: Stus-List Autopilot steering

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

David

Pull to port under power is normal given fin keel (reduced lateral stability
from a full keel), prop offset to port and clockwise prop spin.  Not a big
issue.  I just steer accordingly or set the wheel brake with a bit of
tension and the wheel a few degrees to starboard


John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 CC 34
Noank, CT 


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