Re: [vintagvw] Speedometer Watches

[Dave C. Bolen]

Bugboy,

WoW!  Thos are pretty cool, but they aren't cheap either.  Wish the Dollar 
were doing better against the Euro these days!

Cheers, dave

-- 
---
Enough sunlight reaches the Earth *every* hour to meet the world's
energy demand for an entire year.so, what do we do with it?


On Fri, 30 Nov 2007, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Take a look here...
 http://www.volksworld.com/news/latest/149323/time-travel.html

 And Here...
 http://www.bavarian-crono-technology.de/

  [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Thanks.? I did check that site as well and have even sent an email to WCC- 
 no reply in 2 weeks.


 Ray

 -Original Message-
 From: Dave C. Bolen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
 Sent: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 7:58 am
 Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Speedometer Watches




 Ray,

 Found this
 http://www.superbeetles.com/review/review3.htm
 about halfway down the page.  They say the watches are here...
 West Coast Classics (714) 871-1322

 but I couldn't find any on the web site.



 and cufflinks here

 http://www.cufflinksworld.com/acatalog/Computers_Cars_and_Planes.html

 about 14th down...now that's something you don't see every day...

 Cheers, dave

 --
 ---
 Enough sunlight reaches the Earth *every* hour to meet the world's
 energy demand for an entire year.so, what do we do with it?


 On Thu, 29 Nov 2007, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:



 Hi All,

 It's that time of year!? I am looking for someone that is selling the 
 watches
 that look like a Bug speedometer.? Anyone aware of a vendor that still sells
 these?? Thanks!

 Ray











 
 More new features than ever.  Check out the new AOL Mail ! -
 http://o.aolcdn.com/cdn.webmail.aol.com/mailtour/aol/en-us/text.htm?ncid=aolcmp000503
 ___
 vintagvw site list
 vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
 http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw



 ___
 vintagvw site list
 vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
 http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw


 
 More new features than ever.  Check out the new AOL Mail ! - 
 http://o.aolcdn.com/cdn.webmail.aol.com/mailtour/aol/en-us/text.htm?ncid=aolcmp000503
 ___
 vintagvw site list
 vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
 http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw

 ___
 vintagvw site list
 vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
 http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw



___
vintagvw site list
vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw

[vintagvw] wiring replacement

[Dave C. Bolen]

Folks,

Does anyone have any idea how long it might take to rip out the old wiring 
loom and install a complete new one in a 67 sedan?

The engine will already be out, but everyting else is intact including 
carpeting.  I am good with wiring, so that shouldn't be a problem...just
wondering if other folks have done it and how long it took...

Are we talking days here?

Cheers, dave

-- 
---
Enough sunlight reaches the Earth *every* hour to meet the world's
energy demand for an entire year.so, what do we do with it?

___
vintagvw site list
vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw

[vintagvw] 67 bug hinges?

[Dave C. Bolen]

Guys,

Haven't poped the door panels off, but are the door hinges welded or 
screwed in on the inside of the door.

The ouside to the pillar obviously has screws, but what about on the door.
I can't see that Bentley addresses anything except replacing the hinge 
pin.

Am I missing something?

Cheers, dave

-- 
---
Enough sunlight reaches the Earth *every* hour to meet the world's
energy demand for an entire year.so, what do we do with it?


___
vintagvw site list
vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw

Re: [vintagvw] Firewall insulation

[Dave C. Bolen]

Asad,

More than likely the very cheapest version.  I just did the replacement on 
an original 3rd owner 67 yesterday and instead of buying the $80 
resoration quality firewall from cip1, I bought the cheaper 
stuffalmost paper thin, and they could just roll it up and put it in 
the shipping box...

whereas, the restoration quality stuff had to be shipped at separate 
cost in large flat box...it was about 3/16(~5mm) thick and the stuff I 
got for the 67 might have been less than 1/16th(1.3mm?)

If the folks that sell these would just tell us what the thickness was 
of what they are selling.*then* I could make a choice.  I am betting 
that the original stuff I took out was close 1/4(~6.3mm).

Cheers, dave

-- 
---
Enough sunlight reaches the Earth *every* hour to meet the world's
energy demand for an entire year.so, what do we do with it?


On Thu, 21 Feb 2008, asad ishaque wrote:


 Volks!

  Have a question about the tarboard firewall insulation. Im sure Bert 
 would be interested in this.

  Many years ago my brother Suleman made a very lucky find by locating an 
 NOS firewall insulation tarboard. He purchased it and we put in on the 68 
 daily driver. It was of pretty much the same material as originally on the 
 carwell the remains.

  Last week I bought a set for my 59 rag project. Now this is of an 
 entirely different material. Its thinner, more flexible and has a more 
 textured finish. I doubt it is original.

  I got it from a person who used to restore VWs for a living till some 
 years ago. He claimed it was the original thing. I pointed out that the other 
 was of a different material but he insisted that there were two or more types 
 available. This new one has a good finish and does have cutouts for the 
 cables to pass thru and all. But maybe it was manufactired locally here.

   Can anyone throw some light here? Is this guy telling the truth?? I 
 really dont have any choice here and would happily keep my current purchase 
 even if I know Ive been had!

 Asad.

 _
 Connect and share in new ways with Windows Live.
 http://www.windowslive.com/share.html?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_Wave2_sharelife_012008
 ___
 vintagvw site list
 vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
 http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw



___
vintagvw site list
vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw

Re: [vintagvw] 1998-2008 VW Bug

[Dave C. Bolen]

Kristoff,

I just checked my first saved mail from this list and it was from May of 
2000.


Guess that still makes me a newbiegrin.

I see Zundfolge(Jim) every once in awhile.  He is doing well and working 
on several projects.


I am doing the same, but have trimmed my stable a little cause I just 
couldn't keep up with what I had.


Cheers, dave

78 Champange Edition bus(restored)
78 Puma
68 Sedan(turbo test car)
68 DBL cab P/U (waiting.)
70 ghia project(for sale)



--
---
Enough sunlight reaches the Earth *every* hour to meet the world's
energy demand for an entire year.so, what do we do with it?


On Wed, 20 Feb 2008, Kristof Carton wrote:


This means i've been on this list for 12 years???  I can't believe it???

I know i don't post here often anymore but i still read all the posts.  It's
like a family to me...

If you think about it,  i still remember Zundfolge1432.  The infamous
Hebmüller.  The unfortunate Scott Yuppa

And Bert Knupp who i almost meet in Belgium (u were in antwerp i think)

And of course the ultimate wisdom from Bill May, whose posts u sometimes had
to decipher ; )

And the ultimate wisdom of many, many others too.  All very appreciated.

I hope this list may carry on for another long time...


(ps i'm gonna look up how long i've been on this list on my old computer at
my parents house, moved allready twice in the meantime)

Kristof Carton
'69 bermuda green 1200
'69 baby blue 1500
'71 saturn yellow 1300
'79 Porsche 924
___
vintagvw site list
vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw

[vintagvw] bosch plugs gone?

[Dave C. Bolen]

Bill, I know you used to work for Bosch so I thought you might be able to 
help.

I used the last of my Bosch W8AC(7502) on a bug last weekend and stopped 
by to pick up another couple of setsthey didn't even know what a w8ac 
was, so I gave them the 7502 number.

Same deal...don't have any 7502's and can't get any...
So, I had them look up by application...67 bug ...plenty of Champion and 
other to fit it ,b ut *no* Bosch!

Called another parts store this morning and got the same answer.
I see a bunch of places on line that seem to have them, but not the
two major parts stores I usually deal with(at least here in the south).

Anyone else having that problem?  Got a cross reference and it shows an 
NGK plug I can use, but what the hell's up with Bosch

Cheers, dave

-- 
---
Enough sunlight reaches the Earth *every* hour to meet the world's
energy demand for an entire year.so, what do we do with it?


___
vintagvw site list
vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw

Re: [vintagvw] Bug Tires

[Dave C. Bolen]

Brien,

That's cause nobody else has ever seen them!...LOL!

And you *must* live in Arizona?

so, should I drive to Az. to get these or can I order them delivered from 
your   favorite tire shop?

Cheers, dave


-- 
---
Enough sunlight reaches the Earth *every* hour to meet the world's
energy demand for an entire year.so, what do we do with it?


On Wed, 18 Jun 2008, Brien wrote:

 My off brand Arizonian tires routinely give me 50,000+ miles on a tire I pay
 $33 each for! I say it every time this thread comes up and still am the sole
 responder using these tires.

 Brien


 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Nicholas Stokes
 Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 3:14 PM
 To: Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Bug Tires

 That's what my local Tire City told me.

  I bought a set of Dunlops there for my '70 about six years ago but
 they told me none of the major manufacturers were making that size
 anymore but they could order Kumho or Nankang.  He told me that many
 now use TireRack to order the off-brands.

 Nick
 On Jun 18, 2008, at 2:40 AM, Gerald V. Livingston II wrote:

 *IF* you can grab the right person at your local Discount Tire they
 can
 order any tire made by any manufacturer's line that they carry. Even
 if
 not normally imported.

 My '66 has Continental Euro spec 195/60-15 on the back and 175/55-15
 on
 the front. I'll be going to a 155 on the front as soon as I verify
 clearances and get my Centerline wheels to quit leaking.

 G2

 Bert Knupp wrote:
 Volks,

 I ran into this problem last year in trying to find a set for my
 1970.  Like
 Nick, I ended up with 5 new Kumhos that seem to be fine.  I
 actually ordered
 them through a local Firestone tire store.  I believe that Mid-
 America
 Motorworks in Illinois also sells Kumho tires by mail order.  The
 tires are
 Made in China by Kumho, a Korean company (!).  My local shop
 proclaimed them
 fresh, though, not showing any signs of warehouse aging.

 I learned at the time that 165/75-R15 and the squatter 165/80-R15
 tires are
 made in the UK by B. F. Goodrich, but they are difficult to find.
 Goodrich
 reportedly does not import them to the US, though several private
 dealers do
 so.

 Bert Knupp in Music City USA

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Nicholas Stokes
 Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2008 4:37 PM
 To: Bug List
 Subject: [vintagvw] Bug Tires


 About a year ago I tried to find tires for my daughter's '74 standard
 daily driver.  It was then I found out that the major tire
 manufacturers no longer make the size to fit our air-cooled Bugs.  A
 recommendation from the list for 165/80-R15s took me to TireRack
 where
 I ordered a set by Kumho to be dropped-shipped to the local dealer.
 These tires seem to work just fine.

 Last week she had a flat, causing the tire to be ruined.  Not only
 was
 the tire not available locally, all the major net companies listed
 the
 Kumho as back-ordered.  While searching I was directed to an eBay
 advertisement for those tires.  This ad from Buy Wheels Today of
 Cincinnati, OH showed about 30 available.  Knowing I needed a set for
 the other Bug in the garage as well as the replacement, I ordered
 five.

 Where are other folks buying their tires these days?

 Nick Stokes

 ___
 vintagvw site list
 vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
 http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw

 ___
 vintagvw site list
 vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
 http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw

 ___
 vintagvw site list
 vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
 http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw



___
vintagvw site list
vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw

Re: [vintagvw] Rubbing Compound Suggestion

[Dave C. Bolen]

Mike,

Toothpaste!  Gently!  or some of the stuff they sell call scratch out.

Just repolish it afterwards.  Toothpaste work pretty well for all sorts of 
gentle polishing.

Cheers, dave


-- 
---
Enough sunlight reaches the Earth *every* hour to meet the world's
energy demand for an entire year.so, what do we do with it?


On Wed, 1 Oct 2008, Mike Morehouse wrote:

 This is not  a VW question but maybe there's some help out there.  I brushed 
 a red shopping cart rack at Lowes with my 2006 Silverado truck.  No dent or 
 apparent penetration of the clearcoat or paint but even after I washed it 
 real good and took some car polish i had to it; i can still see trace of 
 orange/red that seems to be in the clear coat.

 Can anyone recommend any products to try to get this off before I take it to 
 a body shop to see how much they would charge to get it out and reclearcoat 
 it. It's down low but i still notice it.

 Surface is smooth to touch but discoloration is still there.

 thanks,

 Mike in AL

 In Christ and Christ alone,

 MIKE MOREHOUSE

 Therefore, if anyone is in Christ, he is a new creation;
 old things have passed away; behold,
 all things have become new.
 2nd Corinthians 5:17




 ___
 vintagvw site list
 vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
 http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw



___
vintagvw site list
vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw

Re: [vintagvw] 1600cc Single Port

[Dave C. Bolen]

Bill,

Have you ever seen the demo's of this stuff..

http://www.fireadesource.com/

The nascar guys are using it cause it is not supposed to be corrosive to 
your engine or electrical system.  I have several, but thankfully have not 
had to use it...even thou I have filters in my engine compartmentlast 
time I put one under the car, I started getting vapor lock.

Where do you put your filter??

Cheers, dave

-- 
---
Enough sunlight reaches the Earth *every* hour to meet the world's
energy demand for an entire year.so, what do we do with it?


On Mon, 17 Nov 2008, Bill May wrote:

 which carb do you have on your 1600? 28pict1 (1200) 30pict-1 (1966 only
 1300) or 67 30pict-1 (1500 SP)... you guys keep putting fuel filters in
 your engine compartments better have really fast reaction times and more
 than 1 fire extinguisher.
 - Original Message -
 From: Robert Harding [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List
 vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
 Sent: Sunday, November 16, 2008 8:06 AM
 Subject: Re: [vintagvw] 1600cc Single Port



 Hello Greg,

 Depending how long you have had this problem the carb is probably the last
 thing causing it and the last to attack.

 Most problems with engines are electrical in nature.

 First thing to check is your compression on each cylinder with engine cold
 and after squirting oil down the spark plug hole. Then do the same with
 engine warm.
 You might not have valve or piston ring problems but this will eliminate
 the possibility and provide a base measurement for a later date.

 Check carb to manifold bolts and the intake manifold bolts. An air leak
 can cause problems so make sure tight and that gasket is good with no
 leakes. If in doubt, replace gasket(s)  but don't touch carb for now.

 Check vaccume line between carb and distributor. This is cheap stuff so I
 always replace if in doubt. If you have a vaccume gauge use that to check
 engine vac as you accelerate. This is a wierd science so depends on only
 if you have a friend who knows how to read and interpret the gauge
 readings.

 Next, check your points...make sure they are at the proper gap and are
 super clean. A couple of quick rasp with a flat jewlers file and clean up
 with alcohol usually does fine. If badly pitted, replace with new and save
 the old as a spare.

 The only good way to check your condensor is to swap/replace with a known
 good one. Worth a try and if nothing changes be sure to swap back to the
 old old.

 Check spark plug gap and clean.

 Make sure fuel filter is not clogged.

 I've had a intermittently bad coil cause the same problem...swap out a
 different known good coil to eliminate that.

 A similar problem was caused once by a clogged fuel line which was
 starving the carb. Sometimes a blast with compressed air will fix that
 like it did for me.

 Another time it was the fuel tank full of some waste crud from the various
 cheap gas stations I was using and the ethonol mixes just coming on line
 at the time. If this is the case it might be best if the local bug shop or
 radiator removes, cleans and recoats it for you. If really
 rusty...replace.

 Sometimes it is actually the fuel pump and the best check is done with a
 fuel pump pressure tester. Otherwise, swap out and see what happens.
 Always use good new proper fitting fuel lines with all the proper clamps
 and fittings!

 Spark plug wires make a differenceput in a new set if they are over 3
 or 4 years old and/or look beat up. I use ACCEL brand with the static
 suppression core with the stranded  copper core type are excellent also
 (but sound bad on the radio). I think age is the main factor here.

 Distributor cap is notorious for causing problems...clean inside and out
 with mineral spirits then alcohol. Again, swapping out with a know good
 spare is a good way to eliminate problems. I used to do this as a radar
 technician in the Navy but would always save my known good spares for
 later trouble shooting.

 If you do all of the above and you still have problems it may be the carb
 but don't touch it untill you've eliminated everything thing else. If it
 is the carb a rebuild kit usually takes care of any problems related to
 age and bad fuel. In this case the accelerator pump portion is suspect to
 me but rebuild the entire carb while you have it apart. Be sure to use a
 see thru fuel filter if you don't have one. I like to be able to see the
 gas getting into the carb.

 Hope this is start and hope it helps.

 Bob






 Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2008 04:37:38 -0600
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
 Subject: [vintagvw] 1600cc Single Port

 Hello,

   I have a 66' Beetle with a 1600cc single port engine.  The problem
 that I am having is that it will idle with no problems but if you apply
 accelerator the engine coughs and sputters.  When I started the car the
 air was cold and it sputtered a little 

Re: [vintagvw] Rear heater outlet flaps

[Dave C. Bolen]

Bert,

You could probably make one fairly easy, but without a picture
it would be difficultor require some engineering.

Bert, you might get lucky and find a pic in the bently where they show
you how to connect them.

I'll do my best to shoot some pics on saturday if you remind me.  It's 
getting pretty cold here tonight and I haveto replace all the push rod 
tubes on my wife's new Karman Ghia engine(don't ask).


Cheers, dave

--
---
Enough sunlight reaches the Earth *every* hour to meet the world's
energy demand for an entire year.so, what do we do with it?


On Thu, 20 Nov 2008, Bert Knupp wrote:


Volks,

I'm trying to renew the heating in my 1970 beetle.  I've got the main flaps
moving freely underneath, installed all new heater control cables --
including the one that controls the rear-seat footwell outlet flaps -- and
cleaned and de-rusted the heater tubes under the back seat.  But neither of
my rear-seat footwell heater tubes has a control flap on its inside:  there
is a pivot in each tube, apparently for mounting the flap, but nothing to
open or close the flow of air.  Neither of my available parts donor cars
seem to have them, either.  The control wires just hang in mid-air after
exiting their guide tubes.

Can these little control flaps be found on the aftermarket?  I've checked my
MAM and WCM catalogs and don't find any likely suspects...none that I
recognize by description, anyhow.  I can't even picture how they install or
work (since they're absent -- duh).  Or does anybody have information that
would help me fabricate a pair?

Bert Knupp in Music City USA

 |__n__
 (_)º
(Ô\_|_/Ô)
 ü ° ° ü

Polizeikäfer 1970


___
vintagvw site list
vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw
___
vintagvw site list
vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw

Re: [vintagvw] Gasket material

[Dave C. Bolen]

Bert,

I think the RTV would probably do a fine job.  No oil or other pertoleum 
products would be in contact with that area, so the RTV is an excellent 
candidate.

I have always found my VW's to adequate or better in the cold...on trips!

In town in rush hour traffic at 30F or below is iffy.  I have had some of 
the marine blowers for several years that I am going to mount inside my 
wife's Ghia engine compartment and push the air with themshe only has 
a 6 mile comute and has decided that her Ghia is her daily driver.

Please let us know how the felt material works out!

Cheers, dave

-- 
---
Enough sunlight reaches the Earth *every* hour to meet the world's
energy demand for an entire year.so, what do we do with it?


On Thu, 27 Nov 2008, Bert Knupp wrote:

 Hi, Asad and Volks,

 Unfortunately, my part of the globe (Tennessee) needs heat in the winter,
 and cooling in the summer.  Spring and autumn are beautiful, but too short
 for a VW enthusiast's hobby.  The VW heating system can be marginally
 adequate in winter if it's in good repair, well sealed, and the engine is
 running at proper temperature.  Unfortunately, it's dependent on engine
 speed, which is unreliable in urban commuting traffic.

 My local experienced VW shadetree mechanic assures me that a ring of RTV
 silicone sealant around the bakelite pipe flange will create a good,
 heat-resistant seal on the flange where the heat tube enters the body.  I'm
 not convinced, so I will probably attempt to cut a pair of seals from
 something else.  Your red rubber gaskets might be some kind of
 high-temperature silicone rubber.  I'll ask around.

 The good news is that I found a couple of VW carcasses with the short
 underseat warm-air tube insulation intact, and used them as models for my
 recreations.  I cut new covers from scraps of vinyl-coated canvas from a
 local sign shop:  it's the stuff they use for banner signs and it has a
 texture and apparent strength identical to the factory material.  An
 upholstery shop gave me some pieces of jute insulation (about 15mm or 5/8
 thick and colored grey) that matches the original almost perfectly.  I found
 two of the flaps that fit inside the pipes to open the rear footwell
 outlets, and they cleaned up very nicely. I bent new control wires from a
 scrap heater cable.

 I'll report back when it's all together.

 Salaam,

 Bert Knupp


 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of asad ishaque
 Sent: Thursday, November 27, 2008 9:52 AM
 To: vw mailing list
 Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Gasket material


 Bert et all,

 Sorry but Im a bit grey in this area due to the fact that this part of
 the world is quite warm and VW heaters are almost always disabled in my city
 at least. In fact I have yet to see a bug with working heaters. Thanks to
 irresponsible mechs who throw out heater parts everytime the engine is taken
 off or the car goes for any work.

I did not know there were bakelite parts down there. Is it the short
 tube which clears thru the body under the rear seat?? Will try to knock on
 the ones in my 68 next time I pop the rear seat butt rest up. I thought they
 were metal.

I have seen rubber gaskets at the boneyard. I thought they went where
 the big accordion pipes joined with the body with the mentioned bakelite (?)
 pipes. Could this be what you are referring to?? They are bright orangish
 red. I think I have seen these advertised on websites. Could this be the
 crumbled material you found?? Ironically Ive always noted these to be in
 very good shape, even with 40 odd years of abuse in our tropical weather and
 no love.

 Best wishes and regards,

 Asad
 Karachi, Pakistan.

 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu Date: Sat,
 22 Nov 2008 19:30:06 -0600 Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Gasket material

 Volks,
 Mike and Gerald,
 Thanks for the ideas. Yes, these are the seals used where the heater box
 outlet pipe goes through the steel body panel above the torsion bar
 housing.
 When I hold a couple of the crumbled fragments up to light, it shows that
 they are translucent -- probably not asbestos. But also not very durable
 over time, obviously. And both of my bakelite flange-and-tube assemblies
 were also badly granulated when I unscrewed the flanges -- they fell apart
 into multiple pieces.

 The insulated heater tubes under the rear seat are wrapped with blankets
 that feel like old-fashioned jute carpet padding, wrapped with a vinyl
 jacket, and held together by 15 cable ties. But the insulating material
 is
 noncombustable: it won't light with a match. I'll look around.

 Thanks,

 Bert Knupp in
 Music City USA

 ___
 vintagvw site list
 vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
 http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw


___
vintagvw site list
vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu

Re: [vintagvw] Tar boords vs insulation kits

[Dave C. Bolen]

Bert,

Not sure about the tar boards, but there is a tremendous difference in the 
firewall tar boards.


The cheap stuff is really cheap and the good stuff is barely as good as 
the original.  I think the problem is the shipping(for firewall).


The third option is to go to your local roofing supply company.
You can buy a 25-50 foot rool of some *thick* tar board type stuff
and layer it as much as you wish...and cut it as well.

The benefit is that you can also glue it to your inside metal and it will 
make the car sound like a million bucks.  You can tap you knuckle down the 
side ofthe car and it sounds better than any new car you can buy.  The 
only problem is finding something that will make it stick.


Cheers, dave


-- ---
Enough sunlight reaches the Earth *every* hour to meet the world's
energy demand for an entire year.so, what do we do with it?


On Sun, 8 Mar 2009, Bert Knupp wrote:


Volks,

I'm rapidly approaching the carpeting stage of my restoration.  I have a
nice set of TMI carpeting, but am looking at my options for underneath the
carpeting.  I have new floor pans, so am starting from scratch.  (Actually,
I still have the old tar covering over the tunnel).

Is there a substantial difference in effect between old conventional $50 tar
boards (like the factory used) and the more extensive $100-plus foil-backed
Sound and Heat Insulation Package sets such as those offered by MAMW and
others?  Do the thicker pad sets significantly affect carpeting fit?  Are
there any areas that need a little extra attention?

I'd appreciate hearing from somebody who's experienced the, um, flooring
experience.

Bert Knupp in Music City USA

   |__n__
   (_)º
  (Ô\_|_/Ô)
   ü ° ° ü
Polizeikäfer '70



__ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature
database 3917 (20090307) __

The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.

http://www.eset.com



___
vintagvw site list
vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw
___
vintagvw site list
vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw

Re: [vintagvw] LED Lights (UNCLASSIFIED)

[Dave C. Bolen]

Guys,

I am tempted also, but it would sure be nice to see a twilight type
picture of the replacements with one side as standard and the other side
with the new replacement in it.

That way we could see the difference between old and new.

Cheers, dave

-- 
---
Enough sunlight reaches the Earth *every* hour to meet the world's
energy demand for an entire year.so, what do we do with it?


On Thu, 9 Apr 2009, William Richardson wrote:

 I'm tempted as well.

 Bill

 Pieretti, Luis A Mr CIV USA FORSCOM wrote:
 Classification:  UNCLASSIFIED
 Caveats: NONE

 Yes sir, they are 12 volt.
 I might get a set.

 Luis A Pieretti
 63 T1


 -Original Message-
 From: vintagvw-boun...@lists.sjsu.edu
 [mailto:vintagvw-boun...@lists.sjsu.edu] On Behalf Of Bill Richardson
 Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2009 7:01 AM
 To: Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [vintagvw] LED Lights (UNCLASSIFIED)

 I assume they are 12 volt?

 Sent from my iPod Touch


 On Apr 8, 2009, at 2:18 PM, Pieretti, Luis A Mr CIV USA FORSCOM
 luis.piere...@us.army.mil   wrote:


 Classification:  UNCLASSIFIED
 Caveats: NONE

 Anyone got any experience with this product?

 http://www.cool-leds.com/beetle.html

 Luis

 Classification:  UNCLASSIFIED
 Caveats: NONE


 ___
 vintagvw site list
 vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
 http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw


 ___
 vintagvw site list
 vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
 http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw
 Classification:  UNCLASSIFIED
 Caveats: NONE


 ___
 vintagvw site list
 vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
 http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw



 ___
 vintagvw site list
 vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
 http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw


___
vintagvw site list
vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw

Re: [vintagvw] Where is everybody?

[Dave C. Bolen]

Bert,

Whe are all in recession!grin...or depression...whichever you choose.

I am in the middle of a big fight with the county and still trying to 
clean up all the tree damage from the ice storm.(Arkansas)


The only tools I have touched are whatever it takes to keep two chainsaws
running hardand putting fencing back together and the mighty pen to 
keep whacking at the county.


I am really missing my vw's!

Cheers, dave




--
---
Enough sunlight reaches the Earth *every* hour to meet the world's
energy demand for an entire year.so, what do we do with it?


On Fri, 1 May 2009, Bert Knupp wrote:


Volks,

I haven't received anything on the list since April 12th.  Is it me, or are
things uncommonly quiet??

Bert Knupp in Music City USA

   |__n__
   (_)º
  (Ô\_|_/Ô)
   ü ° ° ü
Polizeikäfer '70


__ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature
database 4048 (20090501) __

The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.

http://www.eset.com



___
vintagvw site list
vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw
___
vintagvw site list
vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw

Re: [vintagvw] Hubcaps - to Plate or Not to Plate

[Dave C. Bolen]

Bert,

When trying to find places to rechrome my OG Champagne Edition bumpers
I found that the price was near astronomical and the wait was 6 months 
before they would touch them.


When I say astronomical...I mean...$600 each!!!

Much cheaper to buy the triple chrome from Wolfsburg west?

Cheers ,dave

--
---
Enough sunlight reaches the Earth *every* hour to meet the world's
energy demand for an entire year.so, what do we do with it?


On Thu, 11 Jun 2009, Bert Knupp wrote:


Volks,

I have a pretty good assortment of pretty good hubcaps for my '70.  But they
all have some rusting inside (and a couple have rusted scratches); all have
mild denting (like, where somebody maybe hit them with a rubber mallet to
put them on); and all show signs of use.

If they were to be re-plated, all would need some mild undenting and some
de-rusting.  Is there anyplace you're aware of that does this without it
costing a week's wages?  My local custom-plating places want upwards of $100
per hubcap for plating alone, plus additional cost for rust removal and
smoothing of dents.

I feel like going to the catalog aftermarket is a sort of defeat.  I'd like
to Keep It Original.

Or should I just suck it up, use a chrome polish from my FLAPS, and remember
that it's a 40-year-old car?

Bert Knupp in Music City USA

   |__n__
   (_)º
  (Ô\_|_/Ô)
   ü ° ° ü
Polizeikäfer '70



__ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature
database 4149 (20090611) __

The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.

http://www.eset.com



___
vintagvw site list
vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw
___
vintagvw site list
vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw

Re: [vintagvw] Rear window defroster wiring

[Dave C. Bolen]

Bert,

I think the relay was under the rear seat.

You can buy special paint on wiring to fix the grid.

I can't remember what it is called, but you can find it easily on the net.

It's about $20 for a ridiculously small bottle, but I used about 1.5 
bottles on the back window of my 78 Bus.


Cheers, dave

--
---
Enough sunlight reaches the Earth *every* hour to meet the world's
energy demand for an entire year.so, what do we do with it?


On Sat, 17 Oct 2009, Bert Knupp wrote:


Volks,

The previous owner of my '70- beetle disconnected the rear defroster,
leaving a black wire in black spaghetti tubing dangling under the car, and
no visible connection up front at the fuse box.  The little toggle switch is
under the dash, and it seems to be okay, though not connected to anything.
I'm guessing it's a grounding switch for a relay.

Who knows the correct factory routing for this wiring circuit?  My schematic
shows a relay, though none is present up front in my car.  I'll assume it
draws coil power from a #15/54 circuit somewhere.

What's the correct original wiring and routing for the rear-window
defroster?  I'm guessing I'll need to thread a new front-to-back wire (1.5
mm?) parallel to the main harness.  I need to figure out where my orphan
black wire comes from -- and goes to.  Do I pull #30 power from my voltage
regulator's battery terminal?

The printed wire grid on the glass passes cursory visual inspection -- no
obvious breaks -- but I haven't put a meter to it yet.  Does anybody know
what the proper (disconnected) resistance for it ought to be?

You can send me stuff off-list at bert.kn...@comcast.net, if you'd like.

Bert Knupp

   |__n__
   (_)º
  (Ô\_|_/Ô)
   ü ° ° ü
Polizeikäfer '70


__ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature
database 4518 (20091017) __

The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.

http://www.eset.com



___
vintagvw site list
vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw
___
vintagvw site list
vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw

Re: [vintagvw] Rear window defroster wiring

[Dave C. Bolen]

Bert,

Can you really still buy the rear windows with the defroster grid?

If not, take it out, use the best bodywork tape you can buy and use that 
stuff I told you about to recreate the grid.


Cheers ,dave

--
---
Enough sunlight reaches the Earth *every* hour to meet the world's
energy demand for an entire year.so, what do we do with it?


On Thu, 22 Oct 2009, Bert Knupp wrote:


Volks,

The wiring harness is fine, and there's continuity everyplace I need it.
Except on the glass.

Sadly, closer inspection tells me it isn't just a few damaged places on the
window grid.  Rather, it's essentially the entire grid that is missing.
Only the brown substrate is there -- there is literally no conductive stuff
on 99% of it.  Well -- maybe 1-2 on the entire grid.  And a little bit
near the connector terminals on either side.  If I'm ever going to defrost,
it will mean an entire new rear window.


Ain't this a fun hobby?

Bert Knupp in Music City USA
   |__n__
   (_)º
  (Ô\_|_/Ô)
   ü ° ° ü
Polizeikäfer '70



-Original Message-
From: vintagvw-boun...@lists.sjsu.edu
[mailto:vintagvw-boun...@lists.sjsu.edu] On Behalf Of Sharkeys Garage
Sent: Wednesday, October 21, 2009 10:44 PM
To: 'Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List'
Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Rear window defroster wiring

If the entire grid isn't working, it's obviously a problem somewhere between
the grid itself and the car's wiring harness.  If portions of the grid
aren't working, it's usually due to a break in one or more runs (usually
caused by scratching the glass while cleaning it or storing something on the
rear parcel shelf).  Simple enough to fix... just warm up the glass with a
hair dryer, apply Scotch tape to either side of the grid line where the
break is, and apply the copper paste compound.  Remove tape when fully dry
and test.

-Original Message-
From: vintagvw-boun...@lists.sjsu.edu
[mailto:vintagvw-boun...@lists.sjsu.edu] On Behalf Of Randy Ferrill
Sent: October-21-09 7:38 AM
To: Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List
Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Rear window defroster wiring

I would think that if it was not an open circuit, that would be my first
test. Does the wiring (paint) lose resistance over time?


Bert Knupp wrote:

Mike,

You're right.  I found an old German manual showing a photo of the

metal-can

relay under the left end of the rear seat.  It's a continuous-duty relay
(like headlights use) with an 8-amp continuous capacity to carry the high
wattage that the window defroster draws.

And to those of you who sent tips about repairing damaged grid wires:
Thanks for the tips.  I suspect that comes next!  Does anybody know the
correct resistive load that the rear window defroster is supposed to
provide?  That way I can test it before the snow comes.

Thanks,

Bert

|__n__
(_)?
   (È\_|_/È)
³ ? ? ³
Polizeikõfer '70

-Original Message-
From: vintagvw-boun...@lists.sjsu.edu
[mailto:vintagvw-boun...@lists.sjsu.edu] On Behalf Of Mike
Sent: Saturday, October 17, 2009 5:52 PM
To: Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List
Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Rear window defroster wiring

I believe that relay was originally located under the rear seat.
  - Original Message -
  From: Bert Knupp
  To: 'Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List'
  Sent: Saturday, October 17, 2009 6:00 PM
  Subject: [vintagvw] Rear window defroster wiring


  Volks,

  The previous owner of my '70- beetle disconnected the rear defroster,
  leaving a black wire in black spaghetti tubing dangling under the car,

and

  no visible connection up front at the fuse box.  The little toggle

switch

is
  under the dash, and it seems to be okay, though not connected to

anything.

  I'm guessing it's a grounding switch for a relay.

  Who knows the correct factory routing for this wiring circuit?  My
schematic
  shows a relay, though none is present up front in my car.  I'll assume

it

  draws coil power from a #15/54 circuit somewhere.

  What's the correct original wiring and routing for the rear-window
  defroster?  I'm guessing I'll need to thread a new front-to-back wire

(1.5

  mm?) parallel to the main harness.  I need to figure out where my orphan
  black wire comes from -- and goes to.  Do I pull #30 power from my

voltage

  regulator's battery terminal?

  The printed wire grid on the glass passes cursory visual inspection --

no

  obvious breaks -- but I haven't put a meter to it yet.  Does anybody

know

  what the proper (disconnected) resistance for it ought to be?

  You can send me stuff off-list at bert.kn...@comcast.net, if you'd like.

  Bert Knupp

  |__n__
  (_)?
 (È\_|_/È)
  ³ ? ? ³
  Polizeikõfer '70


  __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus
signature
  database 4518 (20091017) __

  The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.

  http://www.eset.com



  

Re: [vintagvw] What to do?

[Dave C. Bolen]

Bert,

As long as it has taken you and all the travails that you went through, I 
am glad you are happy with it!


I don't ever remember seeing you advertise any pictures

And I totaly agree...they are not making any of them any more...so
even super beetles are gonna get pricey at some point.


Cheers, dave

--
---
Enough sunlight reaches the Earth *every* hour to meet the world's
energy demand for an entire year.so, what do we do with it?


On Sun, 29 Nov 2009, Bert Knupp wrote:


Tim,

In an otherwise sound vehicle, I'd say go for a new set of floor pans and
restore the car.  That's what I've done with my '70, anyhow.  Plan A was to
do a pan replacement without removing the body.  It can be done by somebody
with a good shop and the right tools (I had neither).  Plan B was to do a
body-off restoration.  I've taken that route, and replaced the
firewall/luggage compartment also (it, too, was badly rusted out). I had to
pay a local jackleg $300 for the new floor pans and $150 for the rear piece,
but I've gotten a sound car out of it.  While the body was off I
disassembled it, stripped it, did lots of sanding, and then had it
professionally painted. If I had had an indoor working facility I could
probably have done more myself, but ... .

Some purists contend that no vehicle newer than the 1967 is worthy of a
restoration.  With the passage of time I think that maxim has to be reviewed
and revised.  They ain't making any more of them.  Ever.  And my '70 is now
a beauty to behold.

Bert Knupp
Nashville, Tennessee

   |__n__
  (_)º
 (ô\_|_/ô)
  ü °   ° ü

Polizeikäfer '70




-Original Message-
From: vintagvw-boun...@lists.sjsu.edu
[mailto:vintagvw-boun...@lists.sjsu.edu] On Behalf Of Timothy Osburn
Sent: Sunday, November 29, 2009 9:20 AM
To: VW2; Buskatiers; VW1
Subject: [vintagvw] What to do?

The day I hoped would never come is fast approaching.

Last week I pulled back the carpeting and removed the back seat from my '70
Beetle and discovered (actually I knew, but didn't realize the extent of the
horror) that it's about to become a Fred Flintstonemobile.

I have owned this car for about 12 years and has been my faithful daily
driver ever since. I rebuilt the motor and had new floor pans installed (a
hack job) when I first got it.

Scary rust rot all over and a transmission that is being very difficult (
synchronizers gone in 1st  2nd) have forced me to consider getting rid of
it. What would you do?

Fortunately, I have my '56 Euro ragtop and my Westy, so I'm not out of the
air-cooled biz.

I'm in the Kansas City area. The motor itself is still strong (71k) with no
oil burning. I wouldn't hesitate to drive it hundreds of miles on the
interstate. I don't want to give it away, but am interested to see if anyone
in the VW community would even offer something for it.

Pics available.

Tim Osburn, Head Mechanic, Ralph Spoilsport Motors.
Home of Fine, Old Volkswagens andGrand Canyon Nut.


__ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature
database 4647 (20091129) __

The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.

http://www.eset.com



___
vintagvw site list
vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw
___
vintagvw site list
vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw

Re: [vintagvw] Fröhliche Weihnachten

[Dave C. Bolen]

Burt,

Last time I was in Germany and did the acvw circuit(sort of) i picked up a 
copy.  You don't really have to know german, just feel your way thru the 
adverts and sales brochures.


Oh, I did used to speak German a little.

Merry Christmas and to all a good night!

(secret) the Reindeer are a lie, the sleigh was acvw powered.

Guys, please forgive megrin...it is Christmas Eve!


Cheers, dave(in arkansas waiting for the blizzard of 2009)

BTW, I expect to have to drive my 78 Champagne edition tomorrow thru 6 
inches of snow to pick all my family up and get them to the country.


--
---
Enough sunlight reaches the Earth *every* hour to meet the world's
energy demand for an entire year.so, what do we do with it?


On Thu, 24 Dec 2009, Bert Knupp wrote:


Volks,

To those who celebrate Christmas I wish y'all a very Merry Christmas -- and
to all, as the Germans say, a good slide into the New Year.

Santa Claus brought me an extension of my subscription to the German
car-restorer hobbyist's magazine, Oldtimer Praxis.  Lots of how-to
articles, and the classified ads are a great route to sources for obscure
parts and replacements.  Their companion magazine is called Oldtimer-Markt
and it covers lots of European car restorations, but with fewer how-to
articles.  You can Google them out for subscription information.  The
problem is that you kind of have to read German pretty well, and that's
becoming a lost art.  8^)  Sort of like working on AC Volkswagens!

Enjoy the holiday!

Bert Knupp in Nashville

   |__n__
   (_)º
  (Ô\_|_/Ô)
   ü ° ° ü
Polizeikäfer '70


__ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature
database 4715 (20091224) __

The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.

http://www.eset.com



___
vintagvw site list
vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw
___
vintagvw site list
vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw

Re: [vintagvw] Dual Relief Case/Oil Cooler Explanation

[Dave C. Bolen]

Ray,

It is in the factory vw repair manuals.   Nice picture that explains very 
well.  Basically, most of the oil skips th oil cooler when cold.

Cheers, dave

On Sat, 13 Feb 2010, rayvw...@aol.com wrote:


 Hi All,


 I am trying to explain to a friend how the dual relief case works 
 inconjunction with the oil cooler on a Type 1 motor.  I recall at somepoint 
 someone had a diagram of how the oil flowed when cold and hot. Anyone seen 
 that or have a link to that diagram?

 Thanks

 Ray


 ___
 vintagvw site list
 vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
 http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw


___
vintagvw site list
vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw

Re: [vintagvw] A day at Firebird Raceway

[Dave C. Bolen]

NQ,

I miss the list also...when this popped up, I was very surprised!

Larry, thanks for the write up as well!

BTW, I read thru some of the other replies already and know that Zundfolge 
is still out thereas a matter of fact saw him at the Tulsa show and 
visited with him laterhe seems to be doing better than ever!

Guys, I am driving my 68 Turbo'd megasquirted sedan to work today for what 
I hope will be a final heat problem test.  I added two of the old skool 
scoops on the sides behind the windows and actually cut holes in the body
for the airway.  I don't have any problems except at interstate speeds 
with the deck lid closed.

NQ, we all missed you when you needed some breathing space after 
911get lil'red out and give it a go!

Cheers, dave



On Thu, 7 Oct 2010, No Quarter wrote:

 Larry - thanks for the nice write up.  I can't get over how dead the
 listserv is these days.  I just still love the expediency of the list as
 opposed to web forums.  I find them slow and tedious to navigate and really
 enjoy just getting emails.  It's like reading a good book.  I miss the glory
 days where the list was flying with so many posts, people unsubbed because
 they couldn't handle the volume.  BTW:  Who runs the list these days?  I
 can't believe it's still up and running after all these years.

 I've forgotten the names of many of the old crowd on here but a few come to
 mind.  Gilbert Sy Chan, Mr. VW (Jeremy Vreenman), Rob Kuhn, Scott Yuppa
 (killed in a plane crash), Bill May, and even Larry and Henry.  I've been No
 Quarter or NQ for years and some of my old tech posts can still be found
 online.  I managed to save a few of them and have some emailed back to me.
 FWIW:  I've been driving Li'l Red again.  I don't drive him much...wanting
 to save his tired old sheet metal body for as long as I can.  I've been
 driving a dreaded Ford Contour I got from an impound yard but nothing
 carries the same internal sense of joy as cruising around in an old VW.
 Looking back on things, internet was a way to connect and get information
 that wasn't readily found up until it became available.  I think the
 excitement of finding others who shared the same passion was what made the
 list very popular.  Unfortunately, I think things have become ho-hum in many
 areas because we kind of all take it for granted.  I still love my good old
 email and the simpler and faster way to use the net.  I'm really an
 old-fashioned kind of guy and doing things the older and simpler way suits
 my style.  Heck, I even have an old Motorola V60 digital phone which I've
 rebuilt 3 times an replaced the antenna on about 6 times.  Verizon only lets
 me have it as I'm grandfathered in and they just can't figure out why my
 little old phone won't die.  I have a stash of about 5 of them that I pull
 parts off as needed.  :)

 Our annual VW Bus event is the end of the month.  It's www.bustoberfest.com
 and if anyone would like to come in whatever they have, they are more than
 welcome to.

 Thanks again for taking the time to post your story and photos Larry.  That
 was really great of you to take the time.


 ___
 vintagvw site list
 vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
 http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw


___
vintagvw site list
vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw

Re: [vintagvw] Making a Beetle truck?

[Dave C. Bolen]

NQ,

Forget the clutch tube part...much easier to go hydraulic...save yourself
the time and energy of matching it and then making a cable as well.

I too think they are a little to small to be usefullwould 12-18 
really make that much difference?

How about using two pans to make one that is longer...no pieces to match,
just make sure you cut them in the right place so that they mate up.
If you do itthat way, you might get more than 18 and would have 
everything matching

You are probably going to want to use something stronger than stock
for the shift rod since it would be better to have a single piece
that wouldn't try to sag in the middle so much as two pieces welded 
together.

Sure you don't want to just by a bay window?  My 78 handles 4x8 plywood 
just fine with the spare tire out.

BTW, congrats on getting married, you lucky guy!


Cheers, dave



On Tue, 1 Mar 2011, No Quarter wrote:

 I've been doing a lot of thinking about making a light duty truck that
 wouldn't cost as much as a good used single cab.  Beetles are still
 relatively easy to find and cheap to get parts for so I'm thinking of making
 a light duty beetle pick up.

 I posted about this idea several months ago and Tim Osburn sent me a 2d
 drawing of what mating a double cab rear to a beetle would look like.  It's
 doable but that might be a bit more than I can chew.

 I've looked at dozens of beetle truck conversion and one thing most of them
 have in common is that the box is too darn short and hangs over the engine
 farther than it does in front.  It puts too much weight behind the axle and
 is not aesthetically pleasing.

 So what I think would solve the problem would be to lengthen the pan about
 12.  When people do fiberglass buggy conversions, they chop out 16 to 18
 if I recall properly.  To get the strength back, I'd weld on rails like the
 convertibles have.  Along with the lengthening, you'd have to lengthen the
 shift rod, brake line, throttle cable, clutch cable, fuel line tube, and
 clutch carrying tube. I don't know how you'd go about lengthening the tube
 other than welding a new one in or get a small version of a boiler roller
 and flare out the end of one tube so it would slip over the other tube as an
 extension.

 It's a lot of work but I've been doing a bit of welding in the shop lately
 and my welding skills are getting to the point where I feel more comfortable
 tackling something like thisto the point I can see it in my head.

 And yes, I own a crew cab but you don't just beat 'em up.  I'm talking about
 a beater beetle you could haul a few sheets of plywood in, or another
 engine, or lumber, etc.  Put in a low geared transmission and smaller tires
 and you would have some stump pulling torque - even from a small engine.

 If a person wanted to do something with a pancake style Type 4, that would
 get that box down nice and low too.

 I've seen a nice stepside conversion and full width conversions.  They
 really look neat if done correctly.

 NQ

 ___
 vintagvw site list
 vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
 http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw


___
vintagvw site list
vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw

Re: [vintagvw] Ethanol in gasoline

[Dave C. Bolen]

Brien,

This might help.

http://www.motherearthnews.com/Green-Transportation/1972-05-01/Propane-Conversion.aspx

One of the guys in our local club ran across this last weekendI am 
*very* interested as I can buy propane thru the company I work for for 
$1.95/gallon.have them bring a 500 gallon tank and park it in my yard 
and pay once for gasoline for the year.


Just a thought

Cheers, dave



On Thu, 30 Jun 2011, Brien wrote:


Burning food! That is my major issue as well.

When I lived in brazil in the early 90's they still had beatles as police cars, 
tazis etc... Most of them were set up to run 3 fuels full ethanol, regular gas 
and natural gas. The taxi guys were set up to buy and run whatever was cheapest 
at the time.

I have wanted to go back and take the time to see how they do that and do mine 
that way. Being able to run natural gas would be great.

I'll send some links when I get back to a computer.

Brien (mobile mail)

Dave C. Bolen dbo...@shockwaverider.com wrote:


Folks,

My experience in air cooled has not been a big deal since everyone was
assured long ago that the biggest change was to go to better(stainless)
valves.  I have not seen much degradation at all on modern rubber lines
with ethanol.

THE BAD

I have used chainsaws extensively for years.  My first Sears chainsaw kept
me in wood every winter for more than 20 years.

My second Sears chainsaw lasted about 5 years before I took it in to get
repaired.  The mech calls and says it needs a new piston and cylinder for
about $130 total.   I look at both when I pick the saw up and the piston
and cylinder are extremely scored.

Mech says you used gasoline with ethanol in your chainsaw...

Something about the ethanol and and oil not mixing well/or separating out
in both the tank and gas can when not used often(every day).  So now I
shake the daylights out of the saw and can before I use them.

He insisted that I should use ethanol free gas only...but you all know how
hard it can be to find.

My only other problem with E10 or E15The much worse gas mileage i get.
AND the BIGGEST thingwe just laid of about 300 people where I work
because the price of corn is so high that you almost can't afford to use
it for feed.

We need to make sure that ethanol production use non-food grade materials
to make ethanol.I really hate burning food in my car.

Cheers, dave




On Wed, 29 Jun 2011, Mike wrote:


Ethanol content in our gas eliminates the need for DryGas.  Not a bad
thing entirely.
Hygroscopic means that it attracts/absorbs water.
If there's water in your gas tank (whether from the gas-pumps or from highly
humid air condensing in the airspace above a less-than-full tank).
It allows the contaminant to burn in the engine along with the gas.  This
reduces octane as well as the combustion temps as the water cools the
mixture.
But I have NO idea what to do for VW fuel lines.

Mike B.

-Original Message-
From: Bert Knupp
Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2011 6:48 PM
To: 'Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List'
Subject: [vintagvw] Ethanol in gasoline

Volks,

The European classic-car boards are lighting up in panic because of a
proposal in the European Community to mandate E10 fuel -- requiring 10%
ethyl alcohol (ethanol) in all retail motor fuels.  You'd think war had been
declared on old-timers and classics:  Doom and destruction is being forecast
for all the usual reasons, mostly revolving around the hygroscopic
characteristics of ethanol.  Of course, here in the USA, we've had E15 at
our pumps for a long time.  And lead-free gasolines even longer.

The general question:  What adaptations, if any, are required when ethanol
gets added routinely to motor fuels?  Will our fuel tanks really rust away?
Will our butyl rubber fuel lines really turn to silly putty?  Are we really
seeing any negative effects of our E15 gasoline on longevity, performance,
or economy?  How about the absence of tetraethyl lead?  In the USA, it was
the agriculture lobby that bought enough votes to require ethanol use.  In
Europe, distaste for dependency on Khadafy and his ilk adds to the push
(though we've had our share of jingoism, too).  What's the Real Story for
those of us who drive antique cars with antique engines?  Are there any
additives we ought to consider?  Changes in hoses and tubes?  Fuel
treatments to spare our gas tanks?

Bert Knupp in Music City USA

   |__n__
   (_)º
  (Ô\_|_/Ô)
   ü ° ° ü
Polizeikäfer '70


___
vintagvw site list
vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw

___
vintagvw site list
vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw


___
vintagvw site list
vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw


___
vintagvw site list
vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
http

Re: [vintagvw] Cosmoline for seat frames

[Dave C. Bolen]

Bert,

I am pretty sure they had it listed by the quart(1 lb) also...I don't 
think you are going to do much better than that for $14.45after all 
it's not going to ever go bad is it?


If the melting point is between 140 and 170 degrees, I doubt that you are 
ever going to spray it except with some special heated equipment.


Cheers, dave

On Tue, 5 Jul 2011, Bert Knupp wrote:


Thanks, Dave,

Actually, the company that makes Cosmoline Rust Veto (the original product)
is still at it.  But they'll only sell in industrial quantities:  see
http://www.schafco.com/cosmoline.asp .  I'm mainly looking for a
can-at-a-time retailer.

Bert

-Original Message-
From: vintagvw-boun...@lists.sjsu.edu
[mailto:vintagvw-boun...@lists.sjsu.edu] On Behalf Of Dave C. Bolen
Sent: Tuesday, July 05, 2011 2:36 PM
To: Air-Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List
Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Cosmoline for seat frames

Bert,

As always, Google is your friend!

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=26344/Product/RUST_VETO

By the gallon and the initial price looks quite reasonable. $34.95/gallon
+ shipping?

I had remembered a buddy that is in to guns having a formula to make it, so
just looked up...how to make itand ended up at the URL above.

I think painted rather than speayed would be better.


Cheers, dave

On Tue, 5 Jul 2011, Bert Knupp wrote:


Volks,

The metal springs of our old beetles came coated with a flexible waxy
Cosmoline covering that did a pretty good job of preventing rust.  In
getting the frames cleaned up and repainted, I usually end up damaging and
partially removing some of this Cosmoline.

I've found the Cosmoline Web site.  Sadly, they won't sell spray cans of

the

stuff in quantities smaller than a case.  A writer to one forum says that
Eastwood Heavy-duty Anti-rust is the same stuff.

Anybody know where to find small quantities of Cosmoline at retail?  Know

of

any more readily available products that do the same thing -- that is, a
flexible, waxy, permanent coating for seat springs?

Bert Knupp

   |__n__
   (_)º
  (Ô\_|_/Ô)
   ü ° ° ü
Polizeikäfer '70


___
vintagvw site list
vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw




__ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature
database 6267 (20110705) __

The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.

http://www.eset.com



___
vintagvw site list
vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw
___
vintagvw site list
vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw

Re: [vintagvw] WTB: VW fuel injection stuff

[Dave C. Bolen]

NQ,

Basically what I did was buy the dual port end pieces, fuel rails and 
carefully sized injectors from CB.  At that point, you can take almost any
old center section and massage it around to fit your throttle body of 
choice...

The thing that seems important is to try to stick with the
original megasquirt spec sensors.  If you use them, it just
takes a lot of finagling out of your setup.

I did end up using a late bus fi pump and filter mounted at the rear
and a bus fuel pressure regulator mounted near the #3 cylinder bulkhead
which then feeds back to the tank tee via the original fuel line.

I have run my bug in 100+ degree temps and have never had a problem
restarting.  I *did* however rework the tee so that it was larger
then the original ~1/4.  I have a new tank to install so will get
a buddy of mine to braze in a new fitting for a proper return.


One warning.I did have to install a RF filter on the power going to 
the computer as it was doing a lot of resets from the alternator 
noiseeven with a new alternator.  Also, if I unhook my serial cable 
from my laptop and just leave it hanging, I get the same thing after it 
all warms up.  Unpluging it from the MS computer removes the problem.

The EDIS replacement is not about the distributor specifically, but all 
the slop from old gears feeding it.   It will junp around 4 or 5 degrees 
while trying to time it.  Look at AJ sims site where he discusses it.

The other part of EDIS is that *I* want control of timing.  After watching 
what modern cars do at various engine loads with timing, I am certain I 
can get about 2-3 more MPG out of my engine and make it run better cooler 
as well.  Right now, I am at about 23-24mpg back and forth to work(50 
miles round trip) as long as I can stay out of the turbo(at 10 psi).

NQ, I know the parts from CB are expensive, but they make a lot of things 
way easier cause they were designed to fit a vw engine.

Cheers, dave


On Wed, 27 Jul 2011, No Quarter wrote:

 Thanks for the message Dave.  I really don't care to do original FI.  When I
 see the prices of the parts for
 OE stuff, I'd rather go with off the shelf components.  Even those are
 priced bad enough.  COUGH

 I've been seeing all this return line stuff, but I found a diagram (might be
 CB's website but not sure) where you use the VW fuel pump (non-submersible)
 and you use a TEE at the bottom of the fuel line from the tank so you
 basically are just recirculating the fuel to the pump and back up under the
 tank.  As the pressure drops in the line, then more fuel will enter from the
 tank.  I also saw a fuel pressure regulator being used in order to maintain
 the pressure on the output side of the pump and the extra fuel was then fed
 back to the TEE. This way you didn't have to add a 2nd spigot to the tank
 and get into more welding, soldering, or brazing on the tank.

 I'm glad to hear it works nice.  I know fear of the unknown keeps a lot of
 people from trying FI and it's kind of been my case, but once I learn it,
 (found some great diagrams that spells it all out), I figure I can teach
 more people how to do it.  I'd love to find a 1.6L FI engine on an American
 made vehicle and pull all the stuff off.  I think that would make a great
 start.  So far all I can find is a 1985 Ford Escort with the 1.6L FI engine
 and I'm assuming it is electronic.

 Also, I've seen this EDIS stuff and how it gives more control over the
 spark.  I'm not really interested in it because I've found the SVDA dizzy
 with an accufire module in it is just the cat's meow.  It does everything I
 want.  The stock accufire won't fit but if you trim off the bottom of the
 rotor, it will fit and works just fine.  (I'm a cheap old buzzard you know.)

 NQ

 ___
 vintagvw site list
 vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
 http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw


___
vintagvw site list
vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw

Re: [vintagvw] Cracking Rubber Fuel Line

[Dave C. Bolen]

Mike,

Bill May and other have suggested in the past that a mercedes dealer can 
sell you the correct mm sized fuel line that will handle the current 
gas/ethanol mix.

In reality, the German OEM stuff should work fine for longer than a year 
as well.

There is always a chance that a local auto parts store will have the 
correct size(or close enough too it) and that if they do, it is going to 
be of modern manufacture to withstand the gas mix.  It sure won't look 
like the orignal stuff though.

cheers, dave

--
Dream as if you'll live forever, live as if you'll die today.-James Dean

On Fri, 10 Feb 2012, Mike Morehouse wrote:

 Is there a source for ethanol resistant 5.5mm ID rubber OEM fuel line for a
 1972 stock Bug? We cannot get pure non-ethanol laced gas around here and I
 am tired of having my fuel lines crack after a year and having to replace
 all the rubber lines so I don't lose gas, smell gas and have the risk of
 fire.

 I called Mid America and they don't sell anything but OEM which is what I
 have been using. Someone must make a more ethanol resistant fuel line for
 old cars in our size.

 help! please.

 Mike in AL
 ___
 vintagvw site list
 vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
 http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw


___
vintagvw site list
vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw

Re: [vintagvw] Cracking Rubber Fuel Line

[Dave C. Bolen]

Mike,

Lordy, I must be gettin old...can't remember the exact mm, but take an old 
piece with you to the auto store and maybe a fitting or an old fuel pump 
with you to test the parts house stuff with for fit.

I am mostly on the 8mm stuff since I run turboed FI(megasquirt) and newer 
bus stuff.

I have found in the past that some of the OEM for sale is either old or 
really not made well.

I am as green as the next guy...but the ethanol biz is insane for using 
corn.  I work for a company that uses corn for feed...and it is killing 
our business...and driving up prices insanely for animal protein that
we all(mostly) still like to eat.

Sorry for the political rant.

I could tell stories about what ethanol has done to my chainsaws and other
gas consuming mechanical equipmentoh, and $$$.

I have gone to the dark side with a new Prius from a 300+hp Subaru.
We're all gonna love $4+ gasoline!


Cheers, dave


--
Dream as if you'll live forever, live as if you'll die today.-James Dean

On Fri, 10 Feb 2012, Mike Morehouse wrote:

 Dave, thanks. Am I correct that the size is a 5.5 mm ID that I am looking
 for. No MB dealer locally but maybe I can find something.
 Mike
 On Feb 10, 2012 3:02 PM, Dave C. Bolen dbo...@shockwaverider.com wrote:

 Mike,

 Bill May and other have suggested in the past that a mercedes dealer can
 sell you the correct mm sized fuel line that will handle the current
 gas/ethanol mix.

 In reality, the German OEM stuff should work fine for longer than a year
 as well.

 There is always a chance that a local auto parts store will have the
 correct size(or close enough too it) and that if they do, it is going to
 be of modern manufacture to withstand the gas mix.  It sure won't look
 like the orignal stuff though.

 cheers, dave

 --
 Dream as if you'll live forever, live as if you'll die today.-James Dean

 On Fri, 10 Feb 2012, Mike Morehouse wrote:

 Is there a source for ethanol resistant 5.5mm ID rubber OEM fuel line
 for a
 1972 stock Bug? We cannot get pure non-ethanol laced gas around here and
 I
 am tired of having my fuel lines crack after a year and having to replace
 all the rubber lines so I don't lose gas, smell gas and have the risk of
 fire.

 I called Mid America and they don't sell anything but OEM which is what I
 have been using. Someone must make a more ethanol resistant fuel line for
 old cars in our size.

 help! please.

 Mike in AL
 ___
 vintagvw site list
 vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
 http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw


 ___
 vintagvw site list
 vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
 http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw

 ___
 vintagvw site list
 vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
 http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw


___
vintagvw site list
vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw

Re: [vintagvw] Cracking Rubber Fuel Line

[Dave C. Bolen]

NQ,

Kinda been thinking the same thing myselfbut not quite so far away.

Already been doing my research too.

cheers, dave


--
Dream as if you'll live forever, live as if you'll die today.-James Dean

On Fri, 10 Feb 2012, No Quarter wrote:

 Thanks for your input Dave.  My wife, being from Australia, told me how
 Australia has laws in place that prevent items that are used as food from
 being used as fuel so that you don't have the price of food skyrocketing
 along with fuel.  In the near future, I kind of expect to have to go over
 there to escape the goings-on here at home.

 NQ

 ___
 vintagvw site list
 vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
 http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw


___
vintagvw site list
vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw

Re: [vintagvw] Cracking Rubber Fuel Line

[Dave C. Bolen]

NQ,

Have you seriously checked the price of diesel lately???
My calculations show that it is 12% above the cost of unleaded.
(here in arkansas)

If I drive a prius and get 50 mpg on unleaded
then I need to drive a diesel that gets 56 mpg to match the
premium price.  Not gonna happen in this world.  A guy
that works for me has a brand new Jetta diesel and gets
only 44mpg on the hiway and still pays $3.76 at the pump
while I pay $3.35(as of today).


CNG and propane...yes...

If you check, you will find a conversion for a bus that was done back
in the 60's I thinkstill looked good to me as it required minimal
changes.  BTW, did you know that Honda sells a CNG car right now?

27-38mpg 
http://automobiles.honda.com/civic-natural-gas/?ef_id=1rBPKV0LEW0AAIpv:20120223141429:s


Looked it up for you:

http://www.motherearthnews.com/Green-Transportation/1972-05-01/Propane-Conversion.aspx

Cheers, dave

--
Dream as if you'll live forever, live as if you'll die today.-James Dean

On Thu, 23 Feb 2012, No Quarter wrote:

 I failed to mention too that Viton fuel line is used on methanol-powered
 racing bikes.  Marine supply places sell a gray fuel line that is
 alcohol-resistant and even more per foot from the places I saw online.  I
 didn't realize the government was mandating alcohol supplements in the fuel.
 That just decreases mileage and raises tax dollars - oh did I say that?  :-/

 Propane and diesel conversions are sounding better all the time...

 NQ

 ___
 vintagvw site list
 vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
 http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw


___
vintagvw site list
vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw

Re: [vintagvw] Conversion to disk brakes

[Dave C. Bolen]

Bert,

My recolection is tha there were *never* any beetles super or otherwize 
that were imported with disk brakes.


Only Karman Ghia's and busses about the same time(1971/2 I'm thinking).

I have a conversion front conversion kit from Empi on the front of my 68 
turbo and CB on the rear.   Never thougth much about it except when the 
speedo cable ould not go through the front left spindle..bad machining.I 
think...I fices it ok, but not real pleased.


Others have always used either KG spindles or conversion kits.

Cheers, dave


On Tue, 28 Aug 2012, Bert Knupp wrote:


Volks,

The European-delivered 1968-on 1300 and 1500 beetles came standard with
front disk brakes; the USA models didn?t get them until later.  I?m
considering converting my 1970?s front stock drums to the closest
approximation of Euro stock disks that I can get.  Several questions.

Mid-America offers a ?Standard Beetle Conversion? kit (their No. 301-911)
for $369, including new rotors and calipers, reconditioned spindles, and new
wheel bearings, hardware and seals.  They also have some other conversion
options, including some with drop spindles, etc. (that I don?t want).

I?d like to hear from anybody who?s tried this.  (a)  Would this be the best
counterfeit of factory-stock front disks?  Are there better kits out there
for a ?stock conversion??   (b)  Is it an easy conversion, as the catalog
suggests?  (Is it a ?driveway job? would be my question.)  (c)  What effect
do they have on performance?  (d)  Does anybody have a better
recommendation?  I?m open to ideas? .

Bert Knupp in Music City USA

 __n|_
 °(_)º
 (ô\_|_/ô)
  U°°U
Polizeikäfer 70


___
vintagvw site list
vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw
___
vintagvw site list
vintagvw@lists.sjsu.edu
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/vintagvw

RE: [vintagvw] 1600DP running issues

[Dave C. Bolen]

Kirin,

Absolutely agree with Bill,  009's are crap for stockish engines...mostly 
for lots of others as well.


It doesn't matter if the carb is stock or modified...better performance 
and better gas mileage with an svda in 99% of the stuff I have ever worked 
with(40 + years)...as long as you have the proper vacuum port.


Have her spend the money, dump the 009 and be happy.
Even the newish chinese svda's are better than you might expect.

Cheers, dave




On Fri, 21 Dec 2012, bill may wrote:


009 does not play well with a 34 pict-3 carb. You need a 034 distributor
that is single vacuum and mechanical commonly called a SVDA for single
vacuum dual advance.

-Original Message-
From: vintagvw@googlegroups.com [mailto:vintagvw@googlegroups.com] On Behalf
Of Kirin Jacobsen
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2012 11:27 AM
To: vintagvw@googlegroups.com
Subject: [vintagvw] 1600DP running issues

Hey guys,
I have a friend who a few months ago purchased a very clean 70,000 mile 73
super beetle from an original owner a few months ago. The car had just been
serviced bya local shop to pass our local emissions testing(Aircare or as I
like to call it airscare!).

Soon after she purchased it it started suffering some running issues.
It has a replacement Empi 34 pict 3 I believe and what appears to be a
009 Distributor(What I remember from my last 1600dp. Mind you I haven't
played with one since about 2006...)

Anyways the issues that were going on it was stalling when it was cold. It
would fire up fine and she would take off and as soon as she would return to
idle it would stall. Which sounds like a total carb icing issue. To address
that it got a new intake manifold and a new muffler. Which didn't fix it.
Also it started developing a backfire through the carb on shut down. And
hard to start when warm. also a intermittant misfire mid range in the
revs. The disty cap is nearly new. Rotor looks okay.. Certainly not new a
bit grungy but not totally burned ..

Its had plugs, wires etc. When I was looking at the aircare sheet . The
hydrocarbons were high, and I'm certain its running rich. My gut feeling on
this one is that the carb is way out of adjustment and that the timing is
way out to lunch. I checked it for exhaust leaks and none were apparent...
Any thoughts? Its been a long time since I played with this stuff And
well my next venture is with a stroker so thats bound to be entertaining..

Cheers,
Kirin

--
Visit the VintagVW archives at
http://mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List group.
To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw?hl=en.


--
Visit the VintagVW archives at http://mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups VintagVW 
- Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List group.
To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw?hl=en.




--
Visit the VintagVW archives at http://mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
--- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List group.

To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw?hl=en.

Re: [vintagvw] 115 V car heater

[Dave C. Bolen]

Bert,

Heated seats?

LOL! best I could think of.

Cheers, dave

On Fri, 21 Dec 2012, Bert Knupp wrote:


Volks,

Many moons ago I purchased from J. C. Whitney (remember them?) a
Canadian-made 115 volt electric car heater.  It had an underdash mounting
bracket and looked a bit like an oversized CB radio, with a single
off-on-fanspeed knob.  I used it in a beetle, a notch, and a bus over the
years.  It meant that the car was reasonably toasty when I went to work in
the morning on very cold days, with the interior seats, steering wheel,
etc., at least nicely above freezing.  In my bus, I even built a little
stand for it between the front seats.  Great gadget.  It eventually got
stolen.

I’ve gone online and can’t find anything like it.  Does anybody know a
source?  Anybody have one?

Bert Knupp in Nashville

 __n|_
 °(_)º
 (ô\_|_/ô)
  U°°U
Polizeikäfer 70


--
Visit the VintagVW archives at http://mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups VintagVW 
- Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List group.
To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw?hl=en.





--
Visit the VintagVW archives at http://mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
--- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List group.

To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw?hl=en.

Re: [vintagvw] 1600DP running issues

[Dave C. Bolen]

Mike,

Agreedbut any competent VW guy(Kirin probably qualifies) is going to 
recheck all of those things any way.


As an example, I checked mechanical advance curves of the 009 against the 
mechanical curve part of some late model svda's and chose to install a 
crippled(no vacuum advance) svda of a certain vintage in my 2110 rather 
than a 009.


Looks dumb sitting in my engine bay(too lazy to remove the vacuum part), 
but it runs *very* well and smooth at *real* driving rpm's


I, for one am looking for a smooth advance curve beyond what I remember 
the 009 does.  I don't drive either at idle for full throttle all the 
timeand got really sick of the advance either on or off(yes, might be 
carb porting..ida's) at a certain 
rpm which seemed to be about cruising speed at 40mph for me.


Maybe the 009 I was using was sick, but it was certainly 
extremely annoying.


http://www.google.com/imgres?q=009+advance+curvehl=ensa=Xtbo=dbiw=1707bih=876tbm=ischtbnid=HdTMHb2hoIjN4M:imgrefurl=http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php%3Fpic_id%3D843030docid=8F02yyYHkAtxmMitg=1imgurl=http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/843030.jpgw=1176h=759ei=q_nUUOC9L8ii2wWY34GQBwzoom=1iact=hcvpx=4vpy=125dur=533hovh=180hovw=280tx=175ty=116sig=113848758541072979766page=1tbnh=122tbnw=190start=0ndsp=46ved=1t:429,r:0,s:0,i:90

Folks, think about how fast the rpm's get run up in any gear, except for 
real stop and go driving...and where the next rpm matches for any gear 
shift except firstwith stock tires etc.


Cheers, dave


On Fri, 21 Dec 2012, Mike B wrote:

You guys seem quick to fault the 009 dizzy for all of these bad behaviors. 
It IS the cause of driveability and acceleration issues when teamed up with a 
34 PICT carb.  But there's no way it can be causing all of the issues Kirin's 
mentioned.  Yes, they don't play well, but it appears that this one isn't 
playing at all.  It can't all be the 009/ carb mismatch.  It sounds like the 
carb is also possibly having some major problems.  I'd check for worn 
throttle shaft, inop or misadjusted choke, clogged internal passages, 
malfunctioning/ misadjusted accelerator pump, incorrect float level, intake 
vacuum leaks, ignition system problems like bad sparkplug wires, loaded 
spark-plugs, wrong gaps, intermittent coil malfunctions and plenty of other 
potential malfunctions.  A properly-running engine with a good 34 PICT carb 
and good 009 dizzy will still start, idle and run well.  It just has 
acceleration issues and hesitations.


Check it all over for all the usual stuff, and get it running right, before 
blaming all of this on the wrong dizzy.


Mike B.

On 12/21/2012 6:29 PM, Dave C. Bolen wrote:

Kirin,

Absolutely agree with Bill,  009's are crap for stockish engines...mostly 
for lots of others as well.


It doesn't matter if the carb is stock or modified...better performance and 
better gas mileage with an svda in 99% of the stuff I have ever worked 
with(40 + years)...as long as you have the proper vacuum port.


Have her spend the money, dump the 009 and be happy.
Even the newish chinese svda's are better than you might expect.

Cheers, dave




On Fri, 21 Dec 2012, bill may wrote:


009 does not play well with a 34 pict-3 carb. You need a 034 distributor
that is single vacuum and mechanical commonly called a SVDA for single
vacuum dual advance.

-Original Message-
From: vintagvw@googlegroups.com [mailto:vintagvw@googlegroups.com] On 
Behalf

Of Kirin Jacobsen
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2012 11:27 AM
To: vintagvw@googlegroups.com
Subject: [vintagvw] 1600DP running issues

Hey guys,
I have a friend who a few months ago purchased a very clean 70,000 mile 73
super beetle from an original owner a few months ago. The car had just 
been
serviced bya local shop to pass our local emissions testing(Aircare or as 
I

like to call it airscare!).

Soon after she purchased it it started suffering some running issues.
It has a replacement Empi 34 pict 3 I believe and what appears to be a
009 Distributor(What I remember from my last 1600dp. Mind you I haven't
played with one since about 2006...)

Anyways the issues that were going on it was stalling when it was cold. It
would fire up fine and she would take off and as soon as she would return 
to
idle it would stall. Which sounds like a total carb icing issue. To 
address

that it got a new intake manifold and a new muffler. Which didn't fix it.
Also it started developing a backfire through the carb on shut down. And
hard to start when warm. also a intermittant misfire mid range in the
revs. The disty cap is nearly new. Rotor looks okay.. Certainly not new a
bit grungy but not totally burned ..

Its had plugs, wires etc. When I was looking at the aircare sheet . 
The
hydrocarbons were high, and I'm certain its running rich. My gut feeling 
on

this one is that the carb is way out of adjustment and that the timing is
way out to lunch. I checked it for exhaust leaks and none were apparent...
Any thoughts

RE: [vintagvw] 115 V car heater

[Dave C. Bolen]

Bert,

Google and amazon are your friendsgrin.

Just the first one I saw.  I asked for 120v car heater


http://www.amazon.com/Kats-37100-Interior-Heaters/dp/B0044726PW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8qid=1356183424sr=8-2keywords=120v+car+heater

Is that kinda what you had in mind?

Cheers, dave



On Fri, 21 Dec 2012, Bert Knupp wrote:


Hmmm,

Well, um, Dave, the principal claim to fame of my Copbug is anally-detailed
authenticity -- in as many ways as possible it's identical to the VW 1500s
that saw service in Mainz, Germany, in 1970.  I've made very few compromises
with modernity or convenience (like, seat belts).  And the cop cars there
didn't have bun warmers.  The overnight heater is removable without a trace,
so I'll allow it to myself.

Bert

-Original Message-
From: vintagvw@googlegroups.com [mailto:vintagvw@googlegroups.com] On Behalf
Of Dave C. Bolen
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2012 5:31 PM
To: Vintage VW Air-Cooled Discussion Group
Subject: Re: [vintagvw] 115 V car heater

Bert,

Heated seats?

LOL! best I could think of.

Cheers, dave

--
Visit the VintagVW archives at http://mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups VintagVW 
- Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List group.
To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw?hl=en.




--
Visit the VintagVW archives at http://mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
--- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List group.

To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw?hl=en.

RE: [vintagvw] 115 V car heater

[Dave C. Bolen]

Bert,

Yeaa!  I love it when I can help!.

Merry Christmas to you too!

Cheers, dave

On Sat, 22 Dec 2012, Bert Knupp wrote:


Dave,

You've again proven that, if one asks the wrong questions, one gets useless
answers.  I searched on Google and eBay for 110v car heater, 115 volt
automobile heater and various combinations therein.  I never asked about
120 volt car heaters, so, of course, nothing came back.

I hate when this happens.

But yes, that's exactly the idea.  The one shown appears to be larger and
beefier than the little one I had (which, I'll grant, was pretty anemic, but
it made a big difference.)  I'll think of a way to set it into the car in a
way it can be easily removed.

Thanks a lot for the help, Dave!

Fröhliche Weihnachten!

Bert Knupp in Nashville


-Original Message-
From: vintagvw@googlegroups.com [mailto:vintagvw@googlegroups.com] On Behalf
Of Dave C. Bolen
Sent: Saturday, December 22, 2012 7:39 AM
To: vintagvw@googlegroups.com
Subject: RE: [vintagvw] 115 V car heater

Bert,

Google and amazon are your friendsgrin.

Just the first one I saw.  I asked for 120v car heater


http://www.amazon.com/Kats-37100-Interior-Heaters/dp/B0044726PW/ref=sr_1_2?i
e=UTF8qid=1356183424sr=8-2keywords=120v+car+heater

Is that kinda what you had in mind?

Cheers, dave



On Fri, 21 Dec 2012, Bert Knupp wrote:


Hmmm,

Well, um, Dave, the principal claim to fame of my Copbug is
anally-detailed authenticity -- in as many ways as possible it's
identical to the VW 1500s that saw service in Mainz, Germany, in 1970.
I've made very few compromises with modernity or convenience (like,
seat belts).  And the cop cars there didn't have bun warmers.  The
overnight heater is removable without a trace, so I'll allow it to myself.

Bert

-Original Message-
From: vintagvw@googlegroups.com [mailto:vintagvw@googlegroups.com] On
Behalf Of Dave C. Bolen
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2012 5:31 PM
To: Vintage VW Air-Cooled Discussion Group
Subject: Re: [vintagvw] 115 V car heater

Bert,

Heated seats?

LOL! best I could think of.

Cheers, dave

--
Visit the VintagVW archives at
http://mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups

VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List group.

To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to

vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.

Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw?hl=en.




--
Visit the VintagVW archives at
http://mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List group.
To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw?hl=en.


--
Visit the VintagVW archives at http://mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups VintagVW 
- Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List group.
To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw?hl=en.





--
Visit the VintagVW archives at http://mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
--- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List group.

To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw?hl=en.

Re: [vintagvw] Battery isolation relay

[Dave C. Bolen]

Bert,

Part number for the new Bosch part please?


Also, Let's think through your description of how this really works.
From you explanation of the original relay wiring that has only 4 

terminals, I am not sure that it works the way you think it does.

On the original:

51 is the feed providing charging power to either of the two batteries(or 
could it  only be both at the same time!)


61 is ground when the generator is off(I am pretty sure)
and provides a small positive comparison voltage
when the car is charging(red light on or off comparison
to the battery charging state).
I am going to guess that when the charging system was off that
you could pull the equipment battery all the way down and it would charge 
up after you restarted...andthat was about it.


On the other hand...I have never owned one ofthese of a bus with the dual 
battery and don't know how it worked in a late model bus.  My bet is that
both batteries got the same charging current after the engine was started, 
but the equipment battery would give it's all and then that would be that 
till you restarted the car.


Do you have a type2 manual with the same relay described in it?  Seems 
kinda weird that VW(or Bosch) would use different devices to do the same 
thing for VW.


Send the part number!  Bet I can find a reference diagram.

Cheers, dave



On Fri, 15 Mar 2013, Bert Knupp wrote:



Volks,

I need some help.  Various VW models over the years have used dual-battery 
systems:  campers, sound trucks, fire engines, and
police cars to name a few.  The two batteries are connected via an isolation 
relay (in German it’s a “Batterie-Trennrelais”). 
The idea is to permit both batteries to charge from the generator or 
alternator, but to “uncouple” the #2 equipment battery
when the voltage drops below 11 volts, making sure that the #1 or starting 
battery doesn’t get pulled down by the equipment. 
For example, in the police cars, it allowed the car to sit working an accident 
with the blue light, flashers and radio running
but the engine off.  If the available voltage dropped below 11 volts, the 
starting battery would disconnect so the car could
start when done.

So I’m recreating the Copbug’s two-battery system.  I’ve mounted the #2 battery 
under the left rear seat and found a 75-amp
Bosch isolation relay on-line.  The problem:  the four terminals on the new 
Bosch relay don’t match the four terminals on the
VW factory bulletin for police-car wiring.  I’m usually pretty good at 
logicking-through circuits, but I’m stumped here.

The factory bulletin shows an isolation relay with four terminals:  51, 61, 86 
and 87. 

61 comes from the 61 terminal on the voltage regulator.  Skinny wire.

51 comes from the B+ terminal on the voltage regulator.  Fat wire.

86 goes out to the #1 (starting) battery (+).  Fat wire.

87 goes out to the #2 (equipment) battery (+).  Fat wire.

The new isolation relay comes with four terminals also:  85-, 86+, 30 and 87.

The 30-to-87 circuit seems to be the switch that opens and closes.

The 85-to-85 circuit seems to be the coil activation.

The 87 and 51 terminals are high-amp screw terminals.

The 85 and 86 terminals are low-amp Faston slip-on tabs.

But I can’t figure what’s what.  Can anybody help me?  How do I hook up the new 
relay to do the job?

I’ve written to Bosch, but I won’t hold my breath.  The last time I asked them 
for help, the reply came 5 months later – and
they said they didn’t have information on the old equipment.  Aargh!

Bert Knupp in Music City USA


--
Visit the VintagVW archives at http://mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
--- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List group.

To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw?hl=en.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

RE: [vintagvw] Battery isolation relay -- number

[Dave C. Bolen]

Bert,

Don't know for sure what/where/how you bought what you did, but according 
to the net it is a glow plug relay.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Diesel-Glow-Plug-Relay-BOSCH-0-332-002-156-/170647516431

example schematic here. 
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2003/02/electricfan/index.php



This might not be what you want.

You might want to take a look at this and use something similar from a 
real vw?


http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=297050

Cheers, dave



On Fri, 15 Mar 2013, Bert Knupp wrote:


Dave (and all),

The new Bosch Batterietrennrelais is Nr. 0 332 002 156.  It has a schematic
printed on top -- but that doesn't tell me exactly what I need.

Bert

-Original Message-
From: vintagvw@googlegroups.com [mailto:vintagvw@googlegroups.com] On Behalf
Of Dave C. Bolen
Sent: Friday, March 15, 2013 10:34 AM
To: Vintage VW Air-Cooled Discussion Group
Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Battery isolation relay

Bert,

Part number for the new Bosch part please?


Also, Let's think through your description of how this really works.

From you explanation of the original relay wiring that has only 4 terminals,

I am not sure that it works the way you think it does.

On the original:

51 is the feed providing charging power to either of the two batteries(or
could it  only be both at the same time!)

61 is ground when the generator is off(I am pretty sure)
and provides a small positive comparison voltage
when the car is charging(red light on or off comparison
to the battery charging state).
I am going to guess that when the charging system was off that you could
pull the equipment battery all the way down and it would charge up after you
restarted...andthat was about it.

On the other hand...I have never owned one ofthese of a bus with the dual
battery and don't know how it worked in a late model bus.  My bet is that
both batteries got the same charging current after the engine was started,
but the equipment battery would give it's all and then that would be that
till you restarted the car.

Do you have a type2 manual with the same relay described in it?  Seems kinda
weird that VW(or Bosch) would use different devices to do the same thing for
VW.

Send the part number!  Bet I can find a reference diagram.

Cheers, dave



On Fri, 15 Mar 2013, Bert Knupp wrote:



Volks,

I need some help.  Various VW models over the years have used
dual-battery systems:  campers, sound trucks, fire engines, and police

cars to name a few.  The two batteries are connected via an isolation relay
(in German it’s a “Batterie-Trennrelais”).

The idea is to permit both batteries to charge from the generator or
alternator, but to “uncouple” the #2 equipment battery when the voltage

drops below 11 volts, making sure that the #1 or starting battery doesn’t
get pulled down by the equipment.

For example, in the police cars, it allowed the car to sit working an
accident with the blue light, flashers and radio running but the
engine off.  If the available voltage dropped below 11 volts, the starting

battery would disconnect so the car could start when done.


So I’m recreating the Copbug’s two-battery system.  I’ve mounted the
#2 battery under the left rear seat and found a 75-amp Bosch isolation
relay on-line.  The problem:  the four terminals on the new Bosch relay

don’t match the four terminals on the VW factory bulletin for police-car
wiring.  I’m usually pretty good at logicking-through circuits, but I’m
stumped here.


The factory bulletin shows an isolation relay with four terminals: 
51, 61, 86 and 87.

61 comes from the 61 terminal on the voltage regulator.  Skinny wire.

51 comes from the B+ terminal on the voltage regulator.  Fat wire.

86 goes out to the #1 (starting) battery (+).  Fat wire.

87 goes out to the #2 (equipment) battery (+).  Fat wire.

The new isolation relay comes with four terminals also:  85-, 86+, 30 and

87.


The 30-to-87 circuit seems to be the switch that opens and closes.

The 85-to-85 circuit seems to be the coil activation.

The 87 and 51 terminals are high-amp screw terminals.

The 85 and 86 terminals are low-amp Faston slip-on tabs.

But I can’t figure what’s what.  Can anybody help me?  How do I hook up

the new relay to do the job?


I’ve written to Bosch, but I won’t hold my breath.  The last time I
asked them for help, the reply came 5 months later – and they said they

didn’t have information on the old equipment.  Aargh!


Bert Knupp in Music City USA


--
Visit the VintagVW archives at
http://mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
---


--
Visit the VintagVW archives at http://mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups VintagVW 
- Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
Visit

Re: [vintagvw] Valve spring retainer keepers. gone missing?

[Dave C. Bolen]

Dean,

I am still a little confused...bear with me.

From your description it sounds like the valve must still be 
retained...if it wasn't, the large round part that the retainers hold 
down against the presure of the spring and the spring would be laying on 
the bottom of the valve cover or pushing hard against the rocker arm.


If you remove the rocker arm, does everthing on that valve fall off?

If so, then the retainers(or parts of it) have truely failed.

I suspect that what has happened is the valve was held in a partialy down 
position for all of those years and a few gentle taps migh cause the valve 
guide to let go of the valve and let the spring pop it back to 
something close to normalsome liberal spraying of pb blaster or so 
into where the valve stem and the valve guide are might help.


Just my 2 cents worth...especially if the engine was running well to start 
with.


Cheers, dave



On Thu, 28 Mar 2013, Dean Johnson wrote:


I've gone to the trouble of replacing my transaxel after having the bug off the 
road for four years. I was commuting daily for about a year before the
tranny failed. (70 mi round trip)
So imagine my surprise to discover when adjusting the valves that one of my 
valve stems is below the valve spring retainer. Its suppose to stick above
that so the rocker foot can push on it. This seems really bad. Doesn't this 
mean my valve has been getting clobbered by the piston? Doesn't this mean I
have to pull the head and have it rebuilt, if possible, or replaced.
Or is this the one time when something seems bad but really isn't?
I suppose I could take off the rocker arm to see if the valve stem is ok, if 
the valve spring retainer keepers are anywhere to be seen. I don't really
have much more money or time to throw at this.
Please send me a miracle.

Oh, Its a '71 Super Beetle with about 30,000 miles on an 1915 cc engine rebuilt 
by Strictly Foreign (circa 2000). I was running it with a single 34pict
jetted for the larger displacement.

Dean Johnson
Williamson, NY

p.s. to make sure my terminology makes sense,
valve stem: skinny end of valve sticking out towards the rocker assembly.
valve spring retainer: disk shaped metal with hole in the center for valve 
stem. sits on top (out board really) of the spring
valve spring retainer keeper: This I can't see but I assume there are two of 
this buggers around the valve stem that sit in a circular groove around the
end of the valve stem, they keep the valve stem from doing what mine did, 
sneaking back towards the combustion chamber.

--
Visit the VintagVW archives at http://mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups VintagVW 
- Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw?hl=en.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
 
 




--
Visit the VintagVW archives at http://mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
--- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List group.

To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw?hl=en.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

Re: [vintagvw] Valve spring retainer keepers. gone missing?

[Dave C. Bolen]

Dean,

Looks pretty interesting.  I think your tranny failure saved you from a 
dropped valve.


It will be interesting to see which part failed.

The valve stem, the small keepers or the large retainer.

Cheers, dave

On Fri, 29 Mar 2013, Dean Johnson wrote:


I put two pics on my extremely inactive blog. It looks like the very end of the 
valve stem has failed. The keepers are in place but the valve can move
laterally between them. Not sure if this is due to stretching of wear, but I'm 
thinking I'll need to pull the engine and then the head(s).
Here is the link to my blog post.

http://deangj.tumblr.com/post/46625405970/top-picture-shows-valve-stems-after-i-removed-the


--
Visit the VintagVW archives at http://mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups VintagVW 
- Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw?hl=en.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
 
 




--
Visit the VintagVW archives at http://mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
--- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List group.

To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw?hl=en.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

RE: [vintagvw] Resilvering light reflectors

[Dave C. Bolen]

Bert,

Supper mirror powder coating...cheap and might be worth a shot?..but if 
you think chrome is not good enough, then poweder coating may not be 
either.


I, for certain do not have enough info...if you can do plastic vapor 
deposition on plastic and have it be bright and shiny enough to suit most 
people, then what is it that they are depositing on the 
plasticchrome?...or some sort of silvering?


Cheers, dave

On Mon, 8 Apr 2013, Bert Knupp wrote:



Volks,

Phooey.  I talked to the nice people at Madison Glass Co. (see below). They 
re-silver glass mirrors and glass reflectors –
but not metal reflectors.  The guy recommended a couple of chrome-plating shops 
that I know.  I thanked him politely and
hung up:  chrome plating does NOT make for a good reflector.  (It actually 
absorbs some of the light, as it's really a
shade of gray.)

The Uvira people out in Oregon* got back to me:  They will re-do a 
precipitated-aluminum (automotive-type) reflector for
$75 per light – IF you get it first stripped, cleaned, polished, and pre-plated 
with copper and nickel.  Too Cadillacky for
my Volkswagenesque budget.

The search goes on.  Any ideas?

Bert Knupp

*Uvira, Inc.
310 Pleasant Valley Rd.
Merlin, OR 97532
Telephone: +1.541.956.6880

From: vintagvw@googlegroups.com [mailto:vintagvw@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of 
Andy Evans

Sent: Sunday, April 07, 2013 8:30 PM

To: vintagvw@googlegroups.com

Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Digest for vintagvw@googlegroups.com - 1 Message in 1 
Topic

Geographically, you're in the perfect spot.  

Madison Glass Co. LLC

3257 Gallatin Pike, Nashville, TN 37216

http://www.madisonglasscompany.com

(615) 262-1377

 

Can do the re-silvering and people from all over the country ship things to be 
chrome plated at Chromemasters or Leonard
Plating.  I have used both.  Leonard's can do many types of plating and 
Chromemasters specializes in show chrome.

On Sun, Apr 7, 2013 at 12:28 PM, vintagvw@googlegroups.com wrote:

  Today's Topic Summary

Group: http://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw/topics

• Re-silvering light reflectors [1 Update]

 Re-silvering light reflectors

Bert Knupp bert.kn...@comcast.net Apr 06 02:19PM -0500  

Volks,

 

The 15 cm Hella spotlight on my Copbug is showing its age: the silvering is

corroded away from the outer rim of the reflector and there’s some rusting

of the underlying steel. (The Hella fog lights have the same problem,

though I’ve bought them some time using 3M stick-on foil.)

 

Some of the other antique-car forums have reported good results from an

Oregon company called Uvira, so I’ve written them. But I’d like to know of

any re-silvering shops that y’all might have used that did good work for a

reasonable price. Any recommendations?

 

Bert Knupp in Music City USA

 

--
Visit the VintagVW archives at http://mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion
List group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw?hl=en.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
 
 




--
Visit the VintagVW archives at http://mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
--- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List group.

To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw?hl=en.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

RE: [vintagvw] Disc Brake Kits

[Dave C. Bolen]

Bert,

The problem that I had with the left(drivers side) spindle from an empi 
kit was that the speeometer cable drilling was not well done at all.


Even after I worked it over, my speedometer has the bump,bump look of a 
kinked cable...I don't expect the cable to last very long.


look at that part carefully!

Cheers, dave



On Tue, 17 Sep 2013, Bert Knupp wrote:



The last piece of my disk-brake conversion kit for my 1970 beetle arrived today 
from Mid America Motorworks – almost exactly 6
months to the day after I ordered the conversion kit.  It purported to be a 
“remanufactured” left spindle, though unlike the
right spindle shipped earlier, it was drilled and tapped in only 2 of the 3 
mounting holes for the dust shield; it had surfaces
that were cast, not machined; and it was distinctly rougher than its right-side 
mate.  It did carry the VW and Audi logos but
showed no signs of remanufacture.  And it looked too rough to be original.

 

Question:  does anybody have experience with the MAM disk-brake conversion kit? 
 Any quality issues?  I’m hoping it’s better
than their shipping capability.

 

Bert Knupp

--
Visit the VintagVW archives at http://mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups VintagVW 
- Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List
group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.




--
Visit the VintagVW archives at http://mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
--- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List group.

To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

Re: [vintagvw] Polishes and waxes

[Dave C. Bolen]

Kirin,

Zaino brothers.period

this stuff is the schnitz!

First time I used it, I tried to look at the flaws in the paint and 
literally could not see them...mostly on base/clearcoat.


Not cheap, but worth a try...and I havetried Mothers and many others 
including meguars(sp)...etc.


Cheers, dave


On Wed, 30 Oct 2013, Kirin Jacobsen wrote:


Hey Bert,
I'm curious did you prep the cars surface properly by removing the old waxes? Personally 
I'm not a big Detailing guy although
my bug in its latest iteration is far too clean for the likes of me. I have 
heard good things about Griots garage products. Also
there is a series on youtube called #driveclean that is run by a passionate New 
Yorker who seems to know his stuff. Personally
with Mothers Products I have gone through all their steps(And claybar too) and 
been happy with the finish.


On Wed, Oct 30, 2013 at 10:21 AM, Bert Knupp bert.kn...@comcast.net wrote:
  Volks,

  My bug got new paint about 5 years ago; it's in excellent shape.  I keep 
the
  car in a carport, with a soft car cover much of the time.  I've kept a 
good
  quality new-car wax on it -- most recently Meguire's, and before that 
Turtle
  Wax brand new-car wax (not their abrasive polish).  Haven't used a polish
  yet.

  So this week when my bottle of Meguire's ran out, I bought some Mother's
  California Gold Pure Carnauba Wax. (Step 3, nonabrasive).  I didn't use
  their Step 1 Cleaner or Step 2 Sealer as I didn't think I need them.  I 
like
  the company because they support regional VW shows with handouts,
  advertising, and promotional stuff (very clever do not touch signs, 
etc.),
  so thought I'd buy their product.

  I'm disappointed, but don't know whether I've done something wrong, or
  whether it's the product's fault.  I followed directions carefully (I've
  also done this a time or two) and buffed and rubbed everything by hand.  
The
  finish is hazy, streaky, and instantly shows every fingerprint and touch.
  The wax -- even thoroughly dried and wiped -- is soft and smudges easily.
  I've never had this problem with Turtle Wax brand or Meguire's brand
  products.

  What are your observations?  Can you recommend any good surface protection
  for a show car that will keep rain beading and look good for a full 
season?
  I'm in a hot Southern climate that still hits single digits in the
  wintertime.

  Bert Knupp


           __n|_
        °(_)º
        (ô\_|_/ô)
         U°       °U
   Polizeikäfer '70



  --
  Visit the VintagVW archives at 
http://mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
  ---
  You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen
  Discussion List group.
  To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
email to
  vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
  To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
  Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw.
  For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.


--
Visit the VintagVW archives at http://mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups VintagVW 
- Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List
group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.




--
Visit the VintagVW archives at http://mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
--- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List group.

To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

Re: [vintagvw] Starter on a 66

[Dave C. Bolen]

Kyle,

Not mysterious at all.

Disconnect battery.

Disconnect wiring to the starter.

The engine to transmission  bolt above #1 cylinder has to come out 
and one other bolt on bottom of the starter.


Starter should wiggle straight out toward the front of the car.

Clean all connectors going to the starter motor for good contact.

If you are anal, then you will feel the need to replace the starter 
bushing in the transmission case.  There are numerous suggestions on how 
to do this on the net without the special tool.


Install new starter.  Now for the hard part.  Put the top bolt pack in 
and then the nut from the engine side.  If you use a piece of tape or 
mastic or somethingto hold the top bolt while you put the washer and nut 
on from the engine side it is no big deal.


Tighten both starter bolts evenly, put the starter wires back in the right 
places and reconnect the battery.


All done.

Cheers, dave



On Fri, 7 Feb 2014, Kyle Davis wrote:


I have the official factory manual, but it seems a bit sparse in the section 
where you new to replace the starter. Any tips
from anybody who has done this before?  It mentioned it being a 2 person job 
with some mysterious bolt involved within the
engine compartment itself. 
Let me know,

Kyle

On Monday, February 3, 2014, vintagvw@googlegroups.com wrote:
    Today's Topic Summary

Group: http://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw/topics

 *  Engine Recipe [1 Update]
 Engine Recipe
Dan Moy sole...@gmail.com Feb 02 09:14PM -0500  

Nick,
 
Usually low oil pressure is a good indicator, but a qualified machinist
will bolt the case together and torque and then measure the bearing
landings to see if there is a misalignment.
...more

Back to top

--
Visit the VintagVW archives at 
http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion
List group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

--
Visit the VintagVW archives at 
http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups VintagVW 
- Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List
group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.




--
Visit the VintagVW archives at 
http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
--- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List group.

To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.

Re: [vintagvw] FW: VW 1956 or 1957

[Dave C. Bolen]

Burt,

OMG, that thing is fabulous...at least in the pictures!  Any dea what he 
wants for it?


You knew that was going to be the first question, right?

Also, do you think the object just behind the filler neck on the gas tank 
might be a gas heater part?...or just a spare coil?  Pictures could be 
better.



Cheers, dave

On Mon, 14 Jul 2014, Bert Knupp wrote:



Volks,

 

An old friend in Austria is selling off his ’56 VW.  He bought it new (!) and 
wants it to have a good home.  He hasn’t
advertised it yet, and he honestly doesn’t remember whether they called it a 
’56 or ’57 (he’s asking a VW dealer today). 
He knows how to ship them and has good contacts (he’s a retired champion rallye 
driver).

 

Anybody know who might want an early masterpiece?

 

Bert Knupp

 

Hallo Bert ! Anbei die Bilder , Erstbesitz !!! Ich bin am Mittwoch bei dem VW 
und kläre noch ob es ein 1956 oder 1957
ist.

 

[IMAGE]

 

[IMAGE]

 

[IMAGE]

 

[IMAGE]

 

[IMAGE]

 

[IMAGE]

 

[IMAGE]

--
Visit the VintagVW archives at 
http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion
List group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.




--
Visit the VintagVW archives at 
http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
--- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List group.

To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [vintagvw] Strange herbie behavior

[Dave C. Bolen]

Kyle,

See my rants from years ago about cleaning all your electrical 
connections.


All of them!

Look it up.

cheers, dave

On Thu, 21 Aug 2014, Kyle Davis wrote:


Wants to really go in first and second.
Wipers died in the down position.  Was jerky and sporadic before dying.

Turn signals no longer blink quickly, just stay lit (indicator only, not actual 
signals.)

He's a 66 standard.

Converted to twelve volts.

75 amp alternator.

1600 dp engine.

single barrel carb, 30 pict series.

his battery did run down the other day.

Let me know,

Kyle

--
Visit the VintagVW archives at 
http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups VintagVW 
- Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List
group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.




--
Visit the VintagVW archives at 
http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
--- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List group.

To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [vintagvw] Door panel repairing

[Dave C. Bolen]

Bert,

I peeled back the vinyl and coated all of mine with a layer of fiberglass 
and then glued the vinyl back on the fiber glass before I installed them.


Cheers, dave

On Sun, 22 Mar 2015, Bert Knupp wrote:



Volks,

Both doors on my stock 1970 are aftermarket replacements, just over 10 years 
old.  The locations
where many of the clips attach are crumbling away.  I have repaired some in the 
past:  for a few I
used J.B. Weld’s KwikWood, and a few others I’ve pieced back together doused 
with white glue, let
them set hard, then trimmed and glued.  So they just find a new spot to break.

Short of replacing the entire door panel, has anyone found a reliable way to 
patch, reinforce, or
repair the fiberboard surrounding the clip holes on TMI door panels? I’m gentle 
with them, but the
panels occasionally have to be removed for normal maintenance, repairs, etc., 
and each time creates
new damage.  I don’t want any new (visible) screws or clips – the car is 
showroom stock to the bone.

Advice would be appreciated.

Bert Knupp in Music City USA

 __n|_

  °(_)º

  (ô\_|_/ô)

   U°   °U

 Polizeikäfer ‘70

--
Visit the VintagVW archives at 
http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
VintagVW - Air Cooled
Volkswagen Discussion List group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to
vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [vintagvw] Porcelain coating redux

[Dave C. Bolen]

Guys,

Let's think a minute here.  The engine compartment is filled with air 
containing heat.  You are pulling that(and fresh air) straight thru the 
fan and distributing it around the inside of the shroud at a pretty high 
rate.


The sheet metal is going to be mostly the temperature of the air being 
pulled in by the fan and blown thru the shroud at high speed(lots of cfm).


I would bet that the temp of the shoud itself would closely match the 
ambient engine compartment air temperature.


I don't see that the coating on the shroud would help at all.

Now, a coating on the inside of the cylinder head/cylinder sheet metal 
might do some good.


Just my 2 cents, dave



On Sat, 18 Apr 2015, Kyle Davis wrote:



What I was thinking, and I guess it is wrong, would be that porcelain coating 
the fan shroud would keep heat out of the cooling
system, not vice versa.

Kyle

--
Visit the VintagVW archives at 
http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups VintagVW 
- Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List
group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [vintagvw] Finish bumpers?

[Dave C. Bolen]

Bert,

Powder coating?

They will sandblast the bumpers and then powder coat your personal color.

While I have learned that powder coating is no sure fire fix for 
everything, they would look nice.




Another oprion is plasti-dip paint.  You would still need to sand them 
down smooth.  Plasti-dip paint can be peeled off if someone decides that 
want to do something different later.  I have painted two bugs with 
plasti-dip and they both looked pretty good.


It is also fairly easy to repair as well.(not so powder coat)


The benefit is that if the folks don't want a flat matte finish any more, 
they can just peel it off.


Lots of youtube videos of people paining cars with itincluding way 
expensive exotice $100,000 cars.


Cheers, dave

On Sun, 7 Jun 2015, Bert Knupp wrote:



Volks,

I am repairing and fixing up a 1972 SuperBeetle for purposes of resale as a 
basically stock daily driver.  Doing am engine
overhaul, new interior, removing rust, fixing up brakes, doing minor body work, 
repainting, etc.

My question regards the bumpers:  Both bumpers have a good deal of rust, though 
no dents or distortions.  No local chrome-plater
wants to mess with VW bumpers, though several mail-order places advertise 
(costly) replating jobs.  There are aftermarket cheapo
bumpers in most catalogs.

The bumpers could be sanded, polished, and painted.  Or professionally 
re-plated.  Or replaced.  Or kept as-is for the buyer to
work with, though the “curb appeal” of the car would suffer.

Any suggestions?  Anyone have experience with the painting option?  Given the 
mediocre demand for SuperBeetles I obviously don’t
want to spend more than the car’s market value on fixup work.

Bert Knupp in Music City USA

--
Visit the VintagVW archives at 
http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups VintagVW 
- Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List
group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [vintagvw] Appraisal value for Possible Sale of 1972 Bug

[Dave C. Bolen]

There is an independent network of vehicle appraisers and I had one of 
mine done about 10 years ago.


The guy did not necessarily know VW buses, but had done his homework 
before he got here.  In my opinion, his appraisal(for insurance purposes) 
was exactly correct.


Can't remember the name of the group right now, but if you are not happy 
with what you find on the web, come back to me and I will look up my 
papers.


The guy that I set up with initially offered me a job in the future.  He 
said that it mattered not that I didn't know squat about mustangs and 
camaro's cause they had guys that were expert on those and would help with 
any appraisal.


Cheers, dave

On Tue, 9 Jun 2015, Mike Morehouse wrote:


Kyle,
Set up an acct with hagerty. Nice site although all the comps for Beetles were 
for convertibles but it helped. I guess mine
would likely be a condition 2 from their descriptions.Thanks again for the lead.
Mike

On Tue, Jun 9, 2015 at 12:36 PM, Kyle 01ksda...@gmail.com wrote:
  I would check the Hagerty Web site.

  Good luck,  it sounds like you'd have no issues selling it.

  Kyle

  --
  Visit the VintagVW archives at 
http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
  ---
  You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen
  Discussion List group.
  To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
email to
  vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
  To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
  Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw.
  For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.


--
Visit the VintagVW archives at 
http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups VintagVW 
- Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List
group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [vintagvw] Appraisal value for Possible Sale of 1972 Bug

[Dave C. Bolen]

Mike,

Here ya go...

http://www.i-van.org/

I am in the middle of doing a complete write up to sell my restored 78 
Champagne edition bus so I had seen it in there several weeks ago.


Make sure you like them and talk to them.  You will pay travel expenses if 
there is not one close to you(I paid from Springfield missouri to Arkansas 
I think).


Cheers, dave

On Tue, 9 Jun 2015, Mike Morehouse wrote:


Dave,
Thanks. One listee told me to check Hagerty but all the comps they had were 
convertibles. No rush but if you do come across your
paperwork I'd appreciate the info on your appraiser.

Thanks,
Mike in Alabama

On Tue, Jun 9, 2015 at 2:23 PM, Dave C. Bolen dbo...@shockwaverider.com wrote:
  There is an independent network of vehicle appraisers and I had one of 
mine done about 10 years ago.

  The guy did not necessarily know VW buses, but had done his homework 
before he got here.  In my opinion, his
  appraisal(for insurance purposes) was exactly correct.

  Can't remember the name of the group right now, but if you are not happy 
with what you find on the web, come back to
  me and I will look up my papers.

  The guy that I set up with initially offered me a job in the future.  He 
said that it mattered not that I didn't
  know squat about mustangs and camaro's cause they had guys that were 
expert on those and would help with any
  appraisal.

  Cheers, dave

  On Tue, 9 Jun 2015, Mike Morehouse wrote:

Kyle,
Set up an acct with hagerty. Nice site although all the comps for 
Beetles were for convertibles but it
helped. I guess mine
would likely be a condition 2 from their descriptions.Thanks again 
for the lead.
Mike

On Tue, Jun 9, 2015 at 12:36 PM, Kyle 01ksda...@gmail.com wrote:
      I would check the Hagerty Web site.

      Good luck,  it sounds like you'd have no issues selling it.

      Kyle

      --
      Visit the VintagVW archives at 
http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
      ---
      You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
Groups VintagVW - Air Cooled
Volkswagen
      Discussion List group.
      To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from 
it, send an email to
      vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
      To post to this group, send email to 
vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
      Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw.
      For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.


--
Visit the VintagVW archives at 
http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
Groups VintagVW - Air Cooled
Volkswagen Discussion List
group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, 
send an email to
vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.


--
Visit the VintagVW archives at 
http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups VintagVW 
- Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List
group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [vintagvw] Rocker arm geometry

[Dave C. Bolen]

Dean,

So here is how I remember it.  I have used this method since 1972.

Best of all done with the engine out so you can actually see the geometry 
well.



First of all this method takes in to account everything that you may have 
changed on your engine including different cam, lifters, deck heights, 
copper head gaskets, valve stem caps  and stroked or not.


Deck height must already be set properly and matched on both sides of the 
engine.


First of all lay a straight bar or ruler across the valve stems.  If they 
are not all the same, them send them back to be fixed.


Do not assume that just because one side of the engine gets one 
measurement that the other side will be exactly the same...don't ask how I 
know this.grin


Install your rocker arms without shims under them.  Pick a valve(usually 
#2 exhaust for me.


Adjust the valve adjustment screws so that you are in about the middle of 
it's travel or less(look at some old factory rocker arms if you need to so 
you can get an idea of where the factory started.


Rotate the engine until you have half lift from the cam on #2 exhaust(oh, 
BTW, if you have a cam with different lift on exhaust and intake then you 
get to do a lot more measuring).


Insert your adjustable push rod and start adjusting it until the rocker 
arm is pushing the valve down half way.  Unless you have a long travel 
dial gauge this is going to be mostly by eyeball.


Rotate the egine now so that valve is now fully pushing down the valve 
stem at max lift for that valve.


Make sure that the valve spring is not binding and has the proper 
clearance between the valve spring coils(60 thousandths or better?)


If the clearance looks good, then rotate the engine though the entire lift 
sequence for that valve several times and decide whether it looks right.


Oh, and you might as well add a piec of clay to the top of the lifter 
adjusting screw andthen install you rocker cover and then rotate thru the 
sequence againso you know the adjusting screws are not going to hit 
the inside of your rocker cover.



If that looks good, then you have your correct pushrod length.  Now do the 
same thing with your locked adjustable pushrod on the #4 exhaust checking 
for too much clearance at no lift or too much valve spring binding at full 
cam lift.  If it is binding or too loose, then you will have two sets of 
pushrod lengths to make.


Be aware that you are using the same type of adjustable pushrod similar to 
what you will actually install in the engine.  All pushrod ends are not 
made the same.



Cheers, dave




On Tue, 26 May 2015, Dean Johnson wrote:



I read the How to hot rod instructions and couldn't make sense of them
'Adjust the push rod so that it fits...' Not helpful and I don't have any idea 
what centerlines they're talking about and what
does it mean for two lines to 'coincide'? Not at all helpful.

Still looking for instructions with visuals.

On May 25, 2015 9:29 PM, Dave C. Bolen dbo...@shockwaverider.com wrote:
  Guys,

  Your good old copy of How to hot rod vw's has excellent instructions on 
this.

  Although...if you have stock rocker arms and stock pushrods they really 
should be close.  Oh, stroked engine?

  Cheers, dave

  On Mon, 25 May 2015, Daniel Moy wrote:

When I did mine I made an adjustable push rod out of a stock rod.  
Basically cut one in half, trim down
then cut some threads
and insert threaded rod with two locking nuts.  

Install the head torqued to spec.  Do not install the push rods or 
push rod tubes.

Install your adjustable push rod and your rockers with some spacers 
to account for the swivel feet and
lash caps (these are a
good idea as the provide a larger surface area for the swivel 
feet), check the geometry,  there should
be no binding when
cycling the engine.  If there is binding make the push rod shorter.

Check the adjusted rod in a few locations particularly the other 
side of the engine.

If all is well then you now have a properly sized push rod, now you 
need to make eight solid push rods. 
I purchased mine from
gene berg back in the day.  Chrome moly, cut them to length and 
pushed in the ends.

It's been a while but I believe those are the steps.





On May 25, 2015, at 8:39 PM, Dean Johnson 
dean.john...@rochester.edu wrote:

      I re-read the info from the machine shop. He thinks the 
original engine builder, Strictly Foreign,
didn't set up the
      push rod length at all and that I need to do this. That makes 
sense as they are way off. So who
has a good
      description of measuring proper pushrod length?
      BTW. RISMachine did the head work.

      On May 26, 2015 4:13 AM, Dean Johnson 
dean.john...@rochester.edu wrote

Re: [vintagvw] Rocker arm geometry

[Dave C. Bolen]

Dean,

Be careful with the adjustable rod.  I have had some I made myself and I 
easily bent them...especially with serious valve springs.  Whatever 
adjustable you buy, make sure that the actual ends are the same size and 
diameter as your pushrods that you will be using.


I have seen both skinny and fat pushrods.  fat pushrods generally do 
not measure well when mated with exotic lifters that use skinny 
pushrods.


I am going to bet that for your engine, standard lifters were 
installed...the exotics are quite expensive and would probably not been 
used on your engine.


Cheers, dave

On Wed, 27 May 2015, Dean Johnson wrote:


Thanks Dave, I don't have an adjustable push rod yet but will soon.

On Wed, May 27, 2015 at 10:23 AM, Dave C. Bolen dbo...@shockwaverider.com 
wrote:
  Dean,

  So here is how I remember it.  I have used this method since 1972.

  Best of all done with the engine out so you can actually see the geometry 
well.


  First of all this method takes in to account everything that you may have 
changed on your engine including different
  cam, lifters, deck heights, copper head gaskets, valve stem caps  and 
stroked or not.

  Deck height must already be set properly and matched on both sides of the 
engine.

  First of all lay a straight bar or ruler across the valve stems.  If they 
are not all the same, them send them back
  to be fixed.

  Do not assume that just because one side of the engine gets one 
measurement that the other side will be exactly the
  same...don't ask how I know this.grin

  Install your rocker arms without shims under them.  Pick a valve(usually 
#2 exhaust for me.

  Adjust the valve adjustment screws so that you are in about the middle of 
it's travel or less(look at some old
  factory rocker arms if you need to so you can get an idea of where the 
factory started.

  Rotate the engine until you have half lift from the cam on #2 exhaust(oh, 
BTW, if you have a cam with different lift
  on exhaust and intake then you get to do a lot more measuring).

  Insert your adjustable push rod and start adjusting it until the rocker 
arm is pushing the valve down half way. 
  Unless you have a long travel dial gauge this is going to be mostly by 
eyeball.

  Rotate the egine now so that valve is now fully pushing down the valve 
stem at max lift for that valve.

  Make sure that the valve spring is not binding and has the proper 
clearance between the valve spring coils(60
  thousandths or better?)

  If the clearance looks good, then rotate the engine though the entire 
lift sequence for that valve several times and
  decide whether it looks right.

  Oh, and you might as well add a piec of clay to the top of the lifter 
adjusting screw andthen install you rocker
  cover and then rotate thru the sequence againso you know the 
adjusting screws are not going to hit the inside of
  your rocker cover.


  If that looks good, then you have your correct pushrod length.  Now do 
the same thing with your locked adjustable
  pushrod on the #4 exhaust checking for too much clearance at no lift or 
too much valve spring binding at full cam
  lift.  If it is binding or too loose, then you will have two sets of 
pushrod lengths to make.

  Be aware that you are using the same type of adjustable pushrod similar 
to what you will actually install in the
  engine.  All pushrod ends are not made the same.


  Cheers, dave




  On Tue, 26 May 2015, Dean Johnson wrote:


I read the How to hot rod instructions and couldn't make sense of 
them
'Adjust the push rod so that it fits...' Not helpful and I don't 
have any idea what centerlines they're
talking about and what
does it mean for two lines to 'coincide'? Not at all helpful.

Still looking for instructions with visuals.

On May 25, 2015 9:29 PM, Dave C. Bolen 
dbo...@shockwaverider.com wrote:
      Guys,

      Your good old copy of How to hot rod vw's has excellent 
instructions on this.

      Although...if you have stock rocker arms and stock pushrods 
they really should be close.  Oh,
stroked engine?

      Cheers, dave

      On Mon, 25 May 2015, Daniel Moy wrote:

            When I did mine I made an adjustable push rod out of a 
stock rod.  Basically cut one in
half, trim down
            then cut some threads
            and insert threaded rod with two locking nuts.  

            Install the head torqued to spec.  Do not install the 
push rods or push rod tubes.

            Install your adjustable push rod and your rockers with 
some spacers to account for the
swivel feet and
            lash caps (these are a
            good idea

RE: [vintagvw] Hood VW emblems

[Dave C. Bolen]

Bert,

Good job!  As you guys know I buy a lot of unobtanium car parts from 
Lowesgrin


Ingenuity wins evey time!

Cheers, dave

On Mon, 6 Jul 2015, Bert Knupp wrote:



Volks,

I know that everyone is wondering how I solved my VW hood emblem problem.  You 
may recall that the three pins on my VW emblem
did not match up with the three holes in my 1970-something aftermarket (but 
Original VW Parts) hood with the flat emblem area. 
My former hood – a Brazilian aftermarket job – had three holes each containing 
a polyethylene tube grommet, allowing the pins of
the emblem to push neatly down into them and stay put.

The PE tube grommets seem to be unobtainium.  I like that attachment system 
since it allows removal of the emblem with no damage
to the pins, something the usual push clips don't guarantee.  SO I made a 
substitute. For you authenticity buffs, here's my
solution. (Somebody else said, Just glue it. Sorry, not my style.)

Using the long 5/32 polyethylene tube from a used Windex bottle, I heated the 
end of it almost to melting, then pushed it
firmly in turn onto each of the emblem's 3 pins.  It slid on, then mushroomed out a 
bit at the leading tip as it bottomed
out.  I cut off each piece kust short of the pin length.

Into a scrap of inner-tube rubber, I punched three 5/32 holes, then cut out 
little pieces around the holes. These three slid
neatly onto the Windex tubing covered pins.

But I did have to drill. Using a Dremel tool, I gently expanded and spaced each of 
the three holes in the hood to about 5/32 Ø
or a smidge larger, using my emblem and its new plastic-covered pins as a 
guide. Cleaned them, then covered all exposed metal
with a touch-up paint brush (using close-matching Rust-Oleum) and let them dry 
for a half day or so.  This afternoon I carefully
set my emblem onto the holes, made sure it was well aligned, and pressed the 
emblem firmly down into the new holes. Ta-daa!  It
was a firm, but clean fit!  The emblem is in the right place, sits down onto 
the hood (with a paper thickness between it and the
paint, allowing drainage), and looks like a factory job.  I'll seal the 
underside with some brush-daubed Rust-Oleum.

I regret that I can't find a hood with the raised pedestal for the round VW 
emblem. The VW dealers only sold flat hoods as
replacement parts, and my 1970 really, really should have had a raised one. The 
incorrectness aside, though, this DIY grommeting
system appears to have worked well.  I won't be getting rain water into my 
trunk, I shouldn't have any rust, and the emblem
looks like factory-correct.

Thanks to all you guys -- Yves and Lloyd in particular but also Mike and Erin 
(N.Q.) -- for tips and ideas.

What a list!

Bert Knupp in Music City

--
Visit the VintagVW archives at 
http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups VintagVW 
- Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List
group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [vintagvw] Rocker arm geometry

[Dave C. Bolen]

Guys,

Your good old copy of How to hot rod vw's has excellent instructions on 
this.


Although...if you have stock rocker arms and stock pushrods they really 
should be close.  Oh, stroked engine?


Cheers, dave

On Mon, 25 May 2015, Daniel Moy wrote:


When I did mine I made an adjustable push rod out of a stock rod.  Basically 
cut one in half, trim down then cut some threads
and insert threaded rod with two locking nuts.  

Install the head torqued to spec.  Do not install the push rods or push rod 
tubes.

Install your adjustable push rod and your rockers with some spacers to account 
for the swivel feet and lash caps (these are a
good idea as the provide a larger surface area for the swivel feet), check the 
geometry,  there should be no binding when
cycling the engine.  If there is binding make the push rod shorter.

Check the adjusted rod in a few locations particularly the other side of the 
engine.

If all is well then you now have a properly sized push rod, now you need to 
make eight solid push rods.  I purchased mine from
gene berg back in the day.  Chrome moly, cut them to length and pushed in the 
ends.

It's been a while but I believe those are the steps.





On May 25, 2015, at 8:39 PM, Dean Johnson dean.john...@rochester.edu wrote:

  I re-read the info from the machine shop. He thinks the original engine 
builder, Strictly Foreign, didn't set up the
  push rod length at all and that I need to do this. That makes sense as 
they are way off. So who has a good
  description of measuring proper pushrod length?
  BTW. RISMachine did the head work.

  On May 26, 2015 4:13 AM, Dean Johnson dean.john...@rochester.edu 
wrote:

No, stock rockers.

On May 25, 2015 5:32 PM, Daniel Moy sole...@gmail.com wrote:
  Hi Dean,

Did you have ratio rocker arms, if so did you size the push rods?

Dan





On May 25, 2015, at 5:21 PM, Dean Johnson dean.john...@rochester.edu wrote:

  I am finally installing my rebuilt heads into my 1915 cc engine. I have 
the heads on, put in the
  push rods and am test fitting the rocker arms to check geometry.I put the 
shims that had been
  installed under the shafts originally and there is not nearly enough room 
for the swivel foot
  adjusters. Even screwed all the way out, they nearly touch the stems. If 
I use a thicker shim I am
  afraid I won't have enough threads for the rocker arm nuts. ( can I back 
the studs out?) will
  standard adjusters give me more adjustment? Where is the best graphical 
description of adjusting
  the geometry? I don't have a dial indicator so if there is another way to 
do it, that'd be great.
Dean
'71 Super Beetle
http://deangj.tumblr.com



--
Dean G. Johnson, PhD
Postdoctoral Fellow
Biomedical Engineering
McGrath Lab
University of Rochester
Robert B. Goergen Hall Rm. 316
Box 270168
Rochester, NY 14627
dean.john...@rochester.edu
Office: 585-273-2156
Mobile: 315-576-5928

--
Visit the VintagVW archives at 
http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
VintagVW - Air Cooled
Volkswagen Discussion List group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to
vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

--
Visit the VintagVW archives at 
http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen
Discussion List group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to
vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

--
Visit the VintagVW archives at 
http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion
List group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

--
Visit the VintagVW archives at 
http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups VintagVW 
- Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List
group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
Visit 

Re: [vintagvw] Reminiscences

[Dave C. Bolen]

Guys,

Been watching the thanks fly back and forth and that is good to see so 
many of you still out there.


Zundfolge and I do the vendor thing at the Eureka Springs show and he has 
been there every year for about the last 10 years.  We have rooms next to 
each other and our vendor spots righ outside our rooms.  It is a good 
time!


He is doing well and generally has some of the nicest stuff for his vendor 
spot.


Cheers, dave

Dave Bolen

On Mon, 26 Sep 2016, Kirin Jacobsen wrote:



I miss the zundfolge and Nq days. I had Erin as a friend on Facebook for a 
while but he's since disappeared.
-Kirin


On Sep 26, 2016 8:01 AM, "Bert Knupp"  wrote:

  Volks,

   

  Although I’ve had VWs off-and-on since my parents’ beetle (when I was in 
high school in the 1950s), I didn’t get
  into serious restoration until I acquired a daily driver in 2001 and 
quickly found this list. I guess that makes me
  a latecomer to the List. Tips from Erin (N.Q.), Jim (Zundfolge 4123), 
Mike, Dave, and others have helped me
  immensely in getting my restoration right – and my repairs functional. 

   

  There’s a nice bunch of folks on the Facebook Vintage VW page (actually, 
several now) but it isn’t quite the same as
  a listserve.

   

  Let’s keep it alive as long as we can – or remain so ourselves.

   

  Bert Knupp in Music City USA

  Copbug Polizeikäfer

--
Visit the VintagVW archives at 
http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion
List" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

--
Visit the VintagVW archives at 
http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "VintagVW 
- Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List"
group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [vintagvw] Evapo-Rust

[Dave C. Bolen]

Burt,

Youtube is your buddy!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=47EO8FBborI

BTW, they video is a little tedious...but there are plenty of others.

Also, he says he paid $25...walmart advertises it at $19.05.

Might find it at some auto parts stores or my new favorite...Tractor 
Supply for less.


Cheers, dave

On Sun, 6 Aug 2017, Bert Knupp wrote:



Volks,

Does anybody have experience to share about a product called “Evapo-Rust”?  
They claim it fizzes away even thick rust, leaving
unoxidized metal untouched.

There’s a how-to article on a Porsche group on how to refurbish old Bosch 
horns. It’s a good step-by-step for the riveted horns,
and it includes dropping the pieces into a bucket of Evapo-Rust.

If it seems too good to be true …

It must be a new product.  Or something else.  Any help, y’all?

Bert Knupp in Music City USA

--
Visit the VintagVW archives at 
http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "VintagVW 
- Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List"
group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [vintagvw] Is the VintagVW list still working?

[Dave C. Bolen]

NQ,

Yup we are all still here..at least some of us.

Cheers, dave

On Mon, 21 Jan 2019, No Quarter wrote:


Hi gang - NQ here.  I just wondered if the list was still running?

NQ

--
Visit the VintagVW archives at 
http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
--- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
email to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.

To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.



--
Visit the VintagVW archives at 
http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
--- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List" group.

To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [vintagvw] Is the VintagVW list still working?

[Dave C. Bolen]

 reading 
forums, conjecture, wading through and endless sea of talk in an effort to
sleuth out some magical recipe.   It's why I'm willing to pay someone who has 
found a good budget approach to fuel injection and has done all the research. 
Since I can't seem to find someone willing to teach me, then I'm forced to 
monkey with the idea of a 34 pict on a stroker.

I really mean it.  I would pay a worthy amount for the data to make it worth 
someone's while.  Once I knew the recipe, I could build whatever engine I
wanted and fuel inject it no longer being bound by the chains and shackles of 
carburetors.  Unless the person teaching me specifically said to not talk
about it, I would gladly put on a seminar to teach people how to do the same.

After all, happiness is only real when shared.

NQ




 Original message 
From: "Dave C. Bolen" 
Date: 23/01/2019 08:12 (GMT-06:00)
To: vintagvw@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Is the VintagVW list still working?


NQ(and others).

Glad to see the list here.  It reminds me of my relatives, don't talk for
5 years and then pick right back up like it was yesterday.

I've trimed my herd down to my 68 sedan(megasquirted 1776 turbo) and a 72
KG 1914.  The turbo is newely back on the road after cracking a cylinder
at 12psi...my fault though and another long story about what NOT do do
in a hurry with your exhaust on a turbo.

NQ, to answer your first question(the one that started this).

I really don't think you could pass enough air and gas thru a 34pict to
feed a 2 liter for very long.  My bet is that the jetting and idle circuit
adjustments/changes would be a nightmareeven with a limit of 4000 rpm.

Might be an interesting exercise though.

Think about the throttle body on a 2L bus engine and the teeny tiny carb
off of a 1200cc.  VW always managed their horsepower by adjusting the carb
venturi size and the exhaust pipe size...mostly for longetivity as many of
us have learned over the years.

On the other hand!  Wasn't it Bill May who always touted the torque coming
out of a mildly modified single port?  Seems like he always believed that
the single port made more torque down low than the dual port.

Ya didn't say what you wanted to put this engine in, but I'm thinking it
wasn't something you were going to put on the hiway.

Go back to the "famous" hot vw's 1776 daily driver beginings and I think
they tested with a 34pict to start with...they had dyno numbers also.

Now, time to tell *why* you want an engine like that!

Cheers, dave

--
Visit the VintagVW archives at 
http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "VintagVW 
- Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

--
Visit the VintagVW archives at 
http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "VintagVW 
- Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.




--
Visit the VintagVW archives at 
http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
--- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List" group.

To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [vintagvw] Is the VintagVW list still working?

[Dave C. Bolen]

NQ(and others).

Glad to see the list here.  It reminds me of my relatives, don't talk for 
5 years and then pick right back up like it was yesterday.


I've trimed my herd down to my 68 sedan(megasquirted 1776 turbo) and a 72 
KG 1914.  The turbo is newely back on the road after cracking a cylinder

at 12psi...my fault though and another long story about what NOT do do
in a hurry with your exhaust on a turbo.

NQ, to answer your first question(the one that started this).

I really don't think you could pass enough air and gas thru a 34pict to 
feed a 2 liter for very long.  My bet is that the jetting and idle circuit 
adjustments/changes would be a nightmareeven with a limit of 4000 rpm.


Might be an interesting exercise though.

Think about the throttle body on a 2L bus engine and the teeny tiny carb 
off of a 1200cc.  VW always managed their horsepower by adjusting the carb
venturi size and the exhaust pipe size...mostly for longetivity as many of 
us have learned over the years.


On the other hand!  Wasn't it Bill May who always touted the torque coming 
out of a mildly modified single port?  Seems like he always believed that

the single port made more torque down low than the dual port.

Ya didn't say what you wanted to put this engine in, but I'm thinking it 
wasn't something you were going to put on the hiway.


Go back to the "famous" hot vw's 1776 daily driver beginings and I think 
they tested with a 34pict to start with...they had dyno numbers also.


Now, time to tell *why* you want an engine like that!

Cheers, dave

--
Visit the VintagVW archives at 
http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
--- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List" group.

To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [vintagvw] State of Seabert

[Dave C. Bolen]

Guys,

Ahhh...the good old days.

Kirin, I turned my first VW in about 1970.  Friend had one that mad bad 
noises and then wouldn't start.  Went to the bank, borrowed $100.00 and 
bought it from him.


Took the engine out, took inside on the kitchen floor and took off one of 
the heads...just picked one.  Inside #3 cylinder was the infamous

pict carb accelerator pump injection tube(brass thank godness).

Picked it out cleaned up a little and then put it back together.

Tote the engine back out, put in the car and drove the daylights out of it 
for several days.  Sold it for $350 I think.


Paid the banker off in less than 3 weeks and he was delighted...turned out 
I did so much VW business with him he just told me to start having people 
draft on him for the cars I bought.  This was in the good old days when 
you actually knew your banker.


I did a *lot* of that type of fixing.  Turns out there was a place over in 
Ft. Worth with nothing but wrecked VW's for cheap.  Some were not too bad 
and could be fixed up in order to make a little money.


My best one was a lateish model KG *convertible*.  Fanciest Vw I had been 
in up to that point.  Top had been ripped pretty badly but amazingly it 
was really nice otherwise.  Went to the vw junkyard, bought a whole new 
top in one piece and just literally bolted it in.  I made an 
astounding(for the times) $1,000 off of that deal.  Astounding cause I 
lived in a slum house(while going to college) and was paying $50 a month 
for rent.  Cost me more for gas to keep it warm than for rent.


Yes, we want to know what was in the cylinder!

Cheers, dave



On Thu, 24 Jan 2019, No Quarter wrote:

Did you ever figure out what or how that piece of hardware made it into your 
engine Kirin?  So much work for such a simple anomaly.


NQ 
--
Visit the VintagVW archives at 
http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
--- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
email to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.

To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.



--
Visit the VintagVW archives at 
http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
--- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List" group.

To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [vintagvw] The rebuild begins

[Dave C. Bolen]

Kirin,

When you say the oil looked terrible, what do you mean?...just from 
sitting?...condensation?


If the ring lands of cylinder #3 look good and the cross hatching is still 
there with no flaws, you should not have any metal parts from the head 
or piston in your oil.


I don't think I would be worried about the oil cooler or passage ways 
since you have an oil filter, right?


I just can't think of any way that you would have metal bits in your oil
unless the piston had an actual hole in it...

Did I miss something?

Cheers, dave




On Fri, 8 Feb 2019, Kirin Jacobsen wrote:


Hey all,Finally I'm digging into fixing my "New" but wounded 1914. It's mostly 
torn apart but its time to start cleaning it. Its been full flowed, was a new
case with new everything with under 1000 miles on it when it had foreign object 
damage and bashed up cylinder 3 and its cylinder head.

Thus far from what I can see the bearings look good. The oil that came out of 
it after the damage looked terrible. All the pistons and cylinders still had
their cross hatching on it. Cylinder 3 has some where at the top of it but all 
the ring lands are intact but they piston top is obviously bashed up. Right
now my plan of attack is clean the snot out of the block. Most likely I think I 
should replace my oil cooler. Will flush out all the oil passage ways. I'm
thinking its wise to check for clearances on the bearings even though they look 
good. I'm debating picking up a new set of lifters since there is some
pitting.

Probably time for a big photo dump so you can see the damage

Happy Friday and I'm sure there will be more questions coming form me in the 
near future. 

--
Visit the VintagVW archives at 
http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "VintagVW 
- Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.




--
Visit the VintagVW archives at 
http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
--- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List" group.

To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [vintagvw] The rebuild begins

[Dave C. Bolen]

Kirin,

Yes, near as I can tell, metal flecks in the oil?

Looks like the piston/cylinder seal was breached and metal particles were 
in the oil in the sump.


If you haven't thrown away the filter, open it up and see what it caught.

Bigger chunks in the filter screen?  Take a look at your gears in the oil 
pump for sure.


Cheers, dave

On Sat, 9 Feb 2019, Kirin Jacobsen wrote:


Morning all,Heres some photos since they are worth a thousand words. So here is 
a photo dump.

https://scontent.fyvr1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/45348668_10161157046835074_2735175675357954048_n.jpg?_nc_cat=100&_nc_ht=scontent.fyvr1-1.fna=c0a984fb1f3
2e2f4d3277cee46dde07d=5CEAB4AF

https://scontent.fyvr1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/51703035_10161512286945074_1593177616909598720_n.jpg?_nc_cat=102&_nc_ht=scontent.fyvr1-1.fna=f3aedea65c1
f0c74265db845a6ba7f28=5CE1D719

https://scontent.fyvr1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/52008447_10161512287070074_6063943499202428928_n.jpg?_nc_cat=102&_nc_ht=scontent.fyvr1-1.fna=2acd3a7e2da
632c310cf047177125a2e=5CFCC63D

https://scontent.fyvr1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/51559141_10161512287165074_2895131862462627840_n.jpg?_nc_cat=102&_nc_ht=scontent.fyvr1-1.fna=75f9ac483b4
0718123c4075b2199386b=5CEF8B78

https://scontent.fyvr1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/51689235_10161512287245074_493753829804736512_n.jpg?_nc_cat=109&_nc_ht=scontent.fyvr1-1.fna=90a4ceaecb01
63076413eef69c21f621=5CE74A40

https://scontent.fyvr1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/51953782_10161512287320074_993443841283457024_n.jpg?_nc_cat=105&_nc_ht=scontent.fyvr1-1.fna=aa25a30f9607
745e0f6815ed1ccb87a0=5CE9F119

https://scontent.fyvr1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/51590747_10161512287400074_4824425330670305280_n.jpg?_nc_cat=101&_nc_ht=scontent.fyvr1-1.fna=0cee3e11b9a
f874379bd20f75e67e684=5CEB5303

And hopefully that helps

-Kirin



On Sat, Feb 9, 2019 at 5:29 AM Dave C. Bolen  wrote:
  Kirin,

  When you say the oil looked terrible, what do you mean?...just from
  sitting?...condensation?

  If the ring lands of cylinder #3 look good and the cross hatching is still
  there with no flaws, you should not have any metal parts from the head
  or piston in your oil.

  I don't think I would be worried about the oil cooler or passage ways
  since you have an oil filter, right?

  I just can't think of any way that you would have metal bits in your oil
  unless the piston had an actual hole in it...

  Did I miss something?

  Cheers, dave




  On Fri, 8 Feb 2019, Kirin Jacobsen wrote:

  > Hey all,Finally I'm digging into fixing my "New" but wounded 1914. It's 
mostly torn apart but its time to start cleaning it. Its been full
  flowed, was a new
  > case with new everything with under 1000 miles on it when it had 
foreign object damage and bashed up cylinder 3 and its cylinder head.
  >
  > Thus far from what I can see the bearings look good. The oil that came 
out of it after the damage looked terrible. All the pistons and
  cylinders still had
  > their cross hatching on it. Cylinder 3 has some where at the top of it 
but all the ring lands are intact but they piston top is obviously
  bashed up. Right
  > now my plan of attack is clean the snot out of the block. Most likely I 
think I should replace my oil cooler. Will flush out all the oil
  passage ways. I'm
  > thinking its wise to check for clearances on the bearings even though 
they look good. I'm debating picking up a new set of lifters since there
  is some
  > pitting.
  >
  > Probably time for a big photo dump so you can see the damage
  >
  > Happy Friday and I'm sure there will be more questions coming form me 
in the near future. 
  >
  > --
  > Visit the VintagVW archives at 
http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
  > ---
  > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List" group.
  > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send 
an email to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
  > To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
  > Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw.
  > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
  >
  >

  --
  Visit the VintagVW archives at 
http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
  ---
  You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List" group.
  To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
email to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
  To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
  Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/

Re: [vintagvw] More engine pics

[Dave C. Bolen]

Kirin,

Looks pretty good from the pictures!

On a side note, have you decided how to keep from loosing another screw 
into the engine?


I drilled small holes in mine and safety wired them(48 IDA's).
It wasn't easy, but the peace of mind is worth it!

Cheers, dave

On Sun, 10 Feb 2019, Kirin Jacobsen wrote:


Hi all,Dug a bit more into my engine today. I also got the cylinder head back. 
Just waiting for a new torque wrench to replace my busted one. 
Onto the pics. I'm wondering if I should maybe get my rods checked for 
straightness...
I also have some photos of the oil pump since I believe Mike was concerned it 
could be damaged from all the metal. 
I haven't hacked open the oil filter yet.

https://scontent.fcxh3-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/51658831_10161517944540074_4311815769802407936_n.jpg?_nc_cat=100&_nc_ht=scontent.fcxh3-1.fna=68344eaa945
833fa1b853fe3c31ec091=5CF6BE2A

https://scontent.fcxh3-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/51132457_10161517944830074_5439206356714258432_n.jpg?_nc_cat=111&_nc_ht=scontent.fcxh3-1.fna=5c8d1f838f4
1ad9675c3fc4fb45314a0=5CEF7B82

Any material on the oil pump gears is just material from shop rags. They are 
not pitted or damaged. 

https://scontent.fcxh3-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/51919772_10161517945045074_8291092292257710080_n.jpg?_nc_cat=111&_nc_ht=scontent.fcxh3-1.fna=0fa4327f360
fb45ec666da52e7705bb5=5CB3366A

https://scontent.fcxh3-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/51549857_10161517945225074_5902178946182545408_n.jpg?_nc_cat=110&_nc_ht=scontent.fcxh3-1.fna=69aa925c02a
2832e8c1bf67da680f546=5CF1ED23

https://scontent.fcxh3-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/51679991_10161517945585074_6076806728685453312_n.jpg?_nc_cat=103&_nc_ht=scontent.fcxh3-1.fna=215de35a921
23610a3058cba8e2b3b30=5CDFC0F2

https://scontent.fcxh3-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/52071551_10161517945740074_3505395922940985344_n.jpg?_nc_cat=100&_nc_ht=scontent.fcxh3-1.fna=4f9f05925c3
e9a159a5d592837e30ae9=5CF0B8C7

https://scontent.fcxh3-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/52464315_10161517945920074_9066081650051383296_n.jpg?_nc_cat=110&_nc_ht=scontent.fcxh3-1.fna=8f9a55c6b5c
7e7029fcbd703abbf5768=5CECDBBD

Connecting rod bearings. 

https://scontent.fcxh3-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/51590749_10161517946215074_367588620023889920_n.jpg?_nc_cat=108&_nc_ht=scontent.fcxh3-1.fna=e1df94e76926
d628ee8969320f9e4f82=5CE20E10

The streak along the top portion is the plastigauge

https://scontent.fcxh3-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/51630137_10161517946305074_4534211177844047872_n.jpg?_nc_cat=102&_nc_ht=scontent.fcxh3-1.fna=1b6d03aa71b
16b02fdd1622034e42876=5CE32F5F

https://scontent.fcxh3-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/52300422_10161517946365074_2290628358150553600_n.jpg?_nc_cat=110&_nc_ht=scontent.fcxh3-1.fna=3e7cb5f37fb
093de68237fc1e17cd579=5CFB0818

-Kirin and Seabert the Resto Cal 62 bug. 

--
Visit the VintagVW archives at 
http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "VintagVW 
- Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.




--
Visit the VintagVW archives at 
http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
--- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List" group.

To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [vintagvw] Is the VintagVW list still working?

[Dave C. Bolen]

Bruce, thanks!

I didn't think the subject would draw much attention since I have had it 
so long.


The only thing I would like to change on mine is the throttle body but 
substitutions(mostly from motorcycle parts) seem few and far between.


I will take some pictures soon and post them on my website.

Cheers, dave

On Thu, 24 Jan 2019, 'Bruce Howard' via VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen 
Discussion List wrote:


Awesome recipe Dave! You’ve got me hunting parts now, thanks!

Bruce

Sent from my iPhone


On Jan 23, 2019, at 10:20 AM, Dave C. Bolen  wrote:

NQ,

Longish on FI.

The 68 has been running megasquirt for 14 years.  After I replaced the pistons 
and cylinders I decided to leave the turbo off to be able to get
to places that I plan to update(edis and wide band o2 instead of narrowband).

Works just fine that way although I did retune it a little as the AAC p 
appear to work much better than the old Mahle's.

My setup...
CB FI intakes with 28lb/hr CB high Z injectors(no resistor pack needed).
CB FI rails
78 bus pressure regulator(replaced with better Holley adjustable regulator).
78 bus(2 L) throttle body(somewhat modified).
78 bus fuel pump and gas filter.
megasquirt from the second group buy(BTW the CPU on it now hitting EOL(End of 
life) but I have spares).
DISx ignition cause I use their tach output module for a clean injection signal.
Narrow band o2 sensor.
Intake manifold air temp sensor and engine temp sensor(not oil).
Throttle position sensor.

THIS IS a BLOW THRU setup when I get the turbo back on it.  No blow off valve 
needed.  Oh and the turbo stuff started out with a lobuget carb setup.

No spark control yet
NQ, there are sample fuel maps out there for VW guys galore(and mine).

Ok, here is the hard part.  Like anything with a diy setup and a computer, you 
are going to want to fiddle with it.  Tune from the front seat with a laptop.  
Log a test run and then feed it to a piece of software that will
adjust the Fuel table for you.

Oh, and from the logging, I know it takes me about 4/10ths of  second to 
shift.

The biggest part of it is running the fuel line and the return back in to the 
tank.  Some easy ways around that and in a bus you don't have to go farbut 
you must have a fuel ring(hi pressure gas).

THen there is the wiring.  Not too bad but you need the tool to do
crimps on GM weatherpack connector pins.

NQ, count on about a 10% power increase with FI.

My 1776 with turbo and meqaquirt is just awesome, no fall off in power
in 4th gear(in cool weather).  VERY streetable but there when you want it and 
guessing about 150hp in anything less than 90 degree weather.

Yes, there is a learning curve but once you understand the fuel is delivered 
based on throttle position, rpm, map, o2 sensor(and the fuel table)...you are 
done.

Want to come to North West Arkansas in the spring?
I teach for beer.
Got a brand new 1200 sq foot shop and a place to sleep.

Cheers, dave




On Wed, 23 Jan 2019, No Quarter wrote:

Hi Dave.  Thanks for your reply!  You analogy about relatives picking up from 
where they left off from is perfect.  That's what this is.  :)
I want this engine for my 62 double cab and 67 bus.  I would not build this way 
for a big, but torque is king in the bus and I want it all and I want it
low.  I had my first bad experience with CB Performance large valve heads on my 
1776.  It would have made tons of power, but in the bus at the point where
the power band was kicking in, the bus hit terminal velocity.  I was forever 
running behind the power curve.  Traded straight across for Gene Berg 3 angle
valve job stock valves and the power came in where I wanted it.  The guy I'm 
looking for was building stroker engines for the bus crowd and he told me all
he did was pull the venturi and up the main jet one size.  He could tune it up 
and off he went.  I've never had a vw engine over 4K and in fact my bus would
cruise 3600 to 3800 rpm all day long.  I suffered some low end losses with the 
freeway flyer and tall tires so that 1st hear takeoffs took a lot of revving
to get going in the mountains and even around home.
A friend of mine in Lake Havasu City and I had a chat years ago about him 
working on old propane powered trucks in the mines and how these big old 6
cylinder trucks had such small valves.   They needed the increased port 
velocities down low for torque or they would never get anywhere.  He even bored 
out
a set of 1300cc heads and put them on a stroker engine for fun and then put 
them on his single cab.  He let his friend drive it and his friend said it
pulled like mad up to 35mph then fell flat on its face.  What did you do?  Lol!
It was an experiment to test the theory and for buses it it sound.   I need a 
conservative approach for my buses.  I know this is a type 1 list, but I feel
more at home here and I think the low end of the torque spectrum is worth 
investigating for those who would like to build an engine and last a long term 
due
to keeping

Re: [vintagvw] My weekend with Dave and Marion Bolen

[Dave C. Bolen]

NQ,

Thanks for the kind words!  It was good for me to go back over a lot of 
things both learned and forgotten 14 years ago when I first installed 
megasquirt.


Hopefully the side trips down memory lane added to the entertainment value 
of "class" and let you get "un-crossed" eyes for a few minutes.


It was great to visit and see someone in person(and his lovely wife) that 
has been on the list so long!...is it really 26 years!!!?


Cheers, dave

On Sun, 19 May 2019, No Quarter wrote:

Hello gang...NQ here...things have been pretty quiet here on the list since I 
last posted back in January.  Since that time my wife and I spent a wonderful 
month in Australia that went way too fast.  The trip was punctuated with the 
sad fact that a young man decided to check out of life by jumping off the 
bridge we were walking on.  He was right behind us about 20 feet and even 
though we didn't see him jump, the sound and sights afterwards will be burned 
into my mind until my dying day.


On a brighter note, after being on the list here since around 1996 (23 years 
ago), I finally got to meet one of our long-time listees!   Enid and I just 
got back from spending a wonderful weekend with the Bolens in Fayetteville, 
AR.  The reason for the trip was for Dave to share with me his knowledge 
about how to fuel-inject a VW engine and what a wonderful treat it was!  I 
learned so much my head is still swimming, but Dave patiently peeled back 
layers of the fear of the unknown for me and gave me new-found confidence on 
the entire fuel injection process.  It's a bit involved, but so worth the 
effort.


While Dave's wife kindly took my wife under her wing and went and did lady 
things together with her, Dave and I hit the books so-to-speak.  Actually, I 
hit the books more - but Dave was kind enough to have a laptop with larger 
screen plugged in - all propelled with linux - as well as a well thought-out 
syllabus to help teach me how to do this.  I've come away with a 
crystal-clear view of what needs to happen in order to convert to fuel 
injection.


One of my dreams was to build an upright DTM style 2L Type 4 engine, but the 
dual carburetor thing always scared me off.  My experience with duals hasn't 
been good and I absolutely hate dorking with dual carbs.  In my climate, the 
lack of chokes makes starting a VW engine a pure joke and having to 
synchronize carbs every so often is just not worth it to me.  I like the 
center-fed style like what the 1600DP has and now armed with the knowledge 
Dave sent me home with, I think I could do a DTM T4 2L and create a custom 
manifold that would mimic the 1600DP style and then fuel inject it!


As icing on the cake, Dave took me for a ride in his 1968 Beetle with a 
1776cc engine.  The turbo has been removed for various reasons while things 
get resorted out, but I'm telling you guys - I have *NEVER* felt a 1776cc 
engine pull like this.  It was absolutely unreal and now I understand more 
than ever why some dub owners like fuel injection and even turbos.  You know 
when you accelerate and you hit 3rd and 4th gear how your engine starts to 
kind of run out of steam?  That point where the cam has done it's job and 
your pistons are moving so fast that only so much air-fuel mixture can enter 
the cylinder?  With a turbo, this doesn't happen.  It just keeps right on a 
pulling!  I didn't experience that, but I understand the lure so much more so 
now.


Our quick little 3 day vacation ended this evening when we arrived home ready 
to start another work week, but we left with gratitude in our hearts and with 
much thankfulness for the hospitality shown to us on our quick stay.  Dave's 
friend Randy was an absolute pleasure to chat with and we hope to make our 
way back down there again soon where we felt welcomed with open arms.


In closing, I share with y'all a photo of the 2 of us...the teacher and the 
student with the project in the background.  If my eyes look a little 
crossed, it's not without good reason because I got schooled hard and enjoyed 
every single stinkin' minute of it.


https://elassleybie.incolor.com/temp/DaveBolenNQ.jpg

Thank You Dave and Marion (and Randy!) for the wonderful and all-too-short 
time spent together.


NQ










--
Visit the VintagVW archives at 
http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
--- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
email to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.

To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/vintagvw/00bd01d50eb2%243f0557e0%241601a8c0%40NQHPBOX.

For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.



--
Visit the VintagVW archives at 

Re: [vintagvw] My weekend with Dave and Marion Bolen

[Dave C. Bolen]

Dan,

You must have hit Jake on a good day or maybe he has just mellowed over 
the years.


He used to be pretty gruff and crusty and suffered no fools.


Cheers, dave

On Tue, 21 May 2019, Dan Moy wrote:


NQ, have you checked with Jake Raby, wealth of information and reminds me of 
Gene Berg, although nicer ;^) 
https://type4store.com/  

On Tue, May 21, 2019 at 8:36 AM No Quarter  wrote:
  Thanks Ray.  I used to amaze myself with my articles I wrote simply 
because
  I hated writing so much in school.  When I could type my thoughts, it 
seemed
  to flow so much easier.

  I've been scanning the net for the parts I'll need to do the conversion 
on a
  type 1.  The choices are endless, but one thing I'm discovering is that 
the
  one TPS I need, is the one that costs so blooming much...like 60 to 80 
bucks
  easy.  Yet there are TPS units from other cars - less easy to work with -
  for well under 10 bucks and sometimes under 5.  It looks like I will be
  getting resourceful and possible even utilizing some 3D printing to make
  adapters.

  If I'm ever in PA, I will take you up on your offer.  Enid and I were 
coming
  back from Maine last October and had a 13 hour layover in Philadelphia
  primarily because I didn't notice the different between AM and PM on the
  flight itinerary.  That was a long day.

  I'm assuming that FI isn't something most guys are interested in due to 
the
  lack of response on here and that is okay.  I was doing even more
  brainstorming today about what I would do if my FI system crashed so then 
I
  started thinking about putting a TPS on a 34-pict-3 and just leaving the
  fuel shut off to the carb.  If anytime my tps failed, I'd disable 
everything
  including the fuel pump, and switch over to old carburetor mode so I could
  keep on going.

  Carburetors just don't impress me now that we have FI and with the pull of
  Dave's 1776 etched in my mind, I can't say no any more.  Just gotta work
  toward saving some bucks by being a bit more ingenious with how to home 
brew
  this entire thing.

  NQ

  --
  Visit the VintagVW archives at 
http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
  ---
  You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List" group.
  To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
email to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
  To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
  Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw.
  To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/vintagvw/000601d50fd1%24cce26bf0%241601a8c0%40NQHPBOX.
  For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

--
Visit the VintagVW archives at 
http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "VintagVW 
- Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/vintagvw/CANyhGbtM2YoWT55hvLq441RwiqUuvuJXOD6j%3D_QkAaUDb3knKw%40mail.gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.




--
Visit the VintagVW archives at 
http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
--- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List" group.

To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/vintagvw/alpine.DEB.2.20.1905231107110.2973%40dcb-Gazelle-Professional.localdomain.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [vintagvw] My weekend with Dave and Marion Bolen

[Dave C. Bolen]

Dean,

oh, that is  nice one!  Wish a could weld aluminum!

The contour throttle body was one thing I suggested to NQ.



Cheers, dave

On Tue, 21 May 2019, D Johnson wrote:


NQ, I've always been a lurker (since the 80's) but certainly enjoy your posts. 
I will try, in the future, to comment so you know there is interest. I will
always read a good technical or vw related post. Keep it up. BTW I ran across 
this from a couple years
ago... 
https://forums.anandtech.com/threads/converted-my-old-volkswagen-to-fuel-injection.2511764/

You probably saw it too. Keep us up to date on your project, and I'll do the 
same, if I get a chance to put my bug back together. I'm upgrading to an
alternator so I can run an electric heater. The old generator wasn't cutting 
it. I also need to weld some holes that have appeared in my heater boxes. But
first I have to re-wire my welder... and clean my shop... 

Dean Johnson
'71 Super Beetle

On Tue, May 21, 2019 at 8:39 AM Dan Moy  wrote:
  NQ, have you checked with Jake Raby, wealth of information and reminds me 
of Gene Berg, although nicer ;^) 
https://type4store.com/  

On Tue, May 21, 2019 at 8:36 AM No Quarter  wrote:
  Thanks Ray.  I used to amaze myself with my articles I wrote simply 
because
  I hated writing so much in school.  When I could type my thoughts, it 
seemed
  to flow so much easier.

  I've been scanning the net for the parts I'll need to do the conversion 
on a
  type 1.  The choices are endless, but one thing I'm discovering is that 
the
  one TPS I need, is the one that costs so blooming much...like 60 to 80 
bucks
  easy.  Yet there are TPS units from other cars - less easy to work with -
  for well under 10 bucks and sometimes under 5.  It looks like I will be
  getting resourceful and possible even utilizing some 3D printing to make
  adapters.

  If I'm ever in PA, I will take you up on your offer.  Enid and I were 
coming
  back from Maine last October and had a 13 hour layover in Philadelphia
  primarily because I didn't notice the different between AM and PM on the
  flight itinerary.  That was a long day.

  I'm assuming that FI isn't something most guys are interested in due to 
the
  lack of response on here and that is okay.  I was doing even more
  brainstorming today about what I would do if my FI system crashed so then 
I
  started thinking about putting a TPS on a 34-pict-3 and just leaving the
  fuel shut off to the carb.  If anytime my tps failed, I'd disable 
everything
  including the fuel pump, and switch over to old carburetor mode so I could
  keep on going.

  Carburetors just don't impress me now that we have FI and with the pull of
  Dave's 1776 etched in my mind, I can't say no any more.  Just gotta work
  toward saving some bucks by being a bit more ingenious with how to home 
brew
  this entire thing.

  NQ

  --
  Visit the VintagVW archives at 
http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
  ---
  You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List" group.
  To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
email to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
  To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
  Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw.
  To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/vintagvw/000601d50fd1%24cce26bf0%241601a8c0%40NQHPBOX.
  For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

--
Visit the VintagVW archives at 
http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "VintagVW 
- Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw.
To view this discussion on the web visit
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/vintagvw/CANyhGbtM2YoWT55hvLq441RwiqUuvuJXOD6j%3D_QkAaUDb3knKw%40mail.gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

--
Visit the VintagVW archives at 
http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "VintagVW 
- Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw.
To view this discussion on the web visit
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/vintagvw/CAOm0kBn95saA-wJx7V-DJ551ghac-1fr%3D9Ko3-JmMRDM%2BQb7SQ%40mail.gmail.com.

[vintagvw] showtime! need help.

[Dave C. Bolen]

Guys,

Since many of you are still out there as evidenced by the response several 
weeks ago I need some help.


Bill May once went and looked at a 72 KG near where he lived in Cali so I 
and my wife could decide whether to buy it.  I still have that car. 
Someone else once looked at a car(77 Puma GTE) for me near Kansas 
Cityand his report was it looked 100% better in person than in the selllers pictures.

I sold that car last year at the Eureka Spring Vw meet in about 3 hours.

I am now looking to see if anyone can look at a car I am interested in 
near North Augusta, South Carolina.  Will send gas money if necessary for 
help, but I need an independant "eyes on the ground" opinion.


Anyone near there?

Cheers, dave in fayetteville arkansas.



--
Visit the VintagVW archives at 
http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
--- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List" group.

To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [vintagvw] Bug Exhaust Install

[Dave C. Bolen]

Dean,

LOLI have seen two grown men cry over trying to install a stock vw 
muffler...many years ago...


I never touch the heater boxes except with a carefully placed prybar
to force them to match up with the muffler.

I quit using the donut method years ago cause the pipes(after all these 
years) are never the size they used to begenerally waaay too loose and 
leaky.


Do the weld on flanges and you will never be sorry.  You will still need a 
gently used pry bar and punch to hold one set of the holes in the right 
place no matter what.


Cheers, dave

On Sun, 19 Apr 2020, D Johnson wrote:


I always start with confidence and enthusiasm. I loosely install the heater 
boxes to allow lots of wiggle room. Then the flat gaskets are slipped over the
head bolts and the fiber donut with concave metal washers are pused onto the 
heat exchanger. That's when the trouble begins. I don't think I have ever
successfully joined the muffler (or header)  to the heat exchanger. Those clamp 
halves don't want to hug the muffler, the fiber donut, and the washer
together. Something wants to slip out. Sometimes it works out with no leaks but 
it is never pretty, and I put on my first muffler in 1988.  Should I be
modifying the clamps to make them fit better or should I weld on flanges and 
give up on the old school method? Is there a better version of the old-style
clamps out there? 
My 1915cc engine is back in the '71 Super Beetle with Dual IDFs. I need to work 
out the fuel system (tank, fuel line, fuel pump). Then more things to take
care of because the car has been sitting for so long, brakes and lights need to 
be checked etc.

Hope you all are well, keeping safe and busy.
Dean Johnson
WIlliamson, NY (Rural NY amoungst the apple orchards)

--
Visit the VintagVW archives at 
http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "VintagVW 
- Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/vintagvw/CAOm0kBn4Jw-QJgcpLYQ8aw3FyH3AKxKJJQCk_s5QGqQuBv6Cjg%40mail.gmail.com.




--
Visit the VintagVW archives at 
http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
--- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List" group.

To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/vintagvw/alpine.DEB.2.20.2004191703490.25245%40dcb-Gazelle-Professional.localdomain.

Re: [vintagvw] Options for a new listserv?

[Dave C. Bolen]

NQ,

From a 50 year IT perspective I suspect it was moved over to googlegroups 
so that it was free.  No servers to worry about and if emails that are 
flowing thru this group get the same scan as all gmail messages then it

is pretty safe.

The admin side of it is probably pretty easy and straightforward as long
as someone still has the credentials.

Finding who "owns" the group might be difficult but not impossible.

this page might be helpfull.
https://support.google.com/groups/#topic=9216

Cheers, dave

On Wed, 3 Nov 2021, Lazlo wrote:


I wanted to ask everyone's opinion on what they think would be a good direction 
for the listserv?  I'm not
willing to let it go, but 9 years ago when it was moved over to google groups, 
it was never the same.  For
whatever reason, John Sroka moved it over - I suppose due to the dwindling 
support and people moving enmasse
over to other platforms.
I suppose with me it's the tradition of getting my information via email and 
uncluttered with photos and ads as
you would get from facebook.  Pictures are nice and there is some merit to it, 
but the tradition of
disseminating information over email means something to me.  It's really cool 
that after all these years, we
are all still on!  I have no idea how many people are left on here, but I'd 
hate to lose touch.  I'm sure we
lost touch with a ton of people already.

I've looked into installing listserv software on a dedicated server (which 
would be prone to the occasional
internet outages that I go through) and perhaps maybe there are other "free" or 
even pay-based sites that would
work far better than google groups.  I guess the option is there to just simply 
start a new google group with
the same name where it can be moderated.

Or in the end is it all worth it?  I like the ability to go months or years, 
send a message, and boom - still
get replies from some of the core users.  That's really cool.

If any of you would be interested in some future version of the listserv, I'd 
be willing to compile a list of
names and email addresses so that if and when something new comes about, I 
could notify you.  Feel free to
email me at my same email address I've had for over 20 years at 
silentATbeatriceneDOTcom or my google one
erinDOTlassleyATgmailDOTcom and I'll compile a list and keep your info offline.

I'm open to suggestions as well.  Managing a private listserv can be quite 
involved and does have the potential
to be abused with spam (which requires active management.)  There is also the 
option of having a facebook page
which would serve as a supplement to a listserv where pictures could be shown 
as well as utilizing the page as
a way to shuttle people to the listserv.  I guess we also have the option of 
leaving things as they are, but
with a moderator I have no idea how much longer this will last.  It's not being 
actively maintained and new
users aren't able to join.  I would like to think that maybe since there are 
long periods of inactivity, John
just doesn't check it any more or maybe he has met with an untimely demise.  
Covid has been brutal and I'm sure
if something happened to him, this listserv would be the least of his families 
worries (if they even know about
it at all.)

Let me know what you think.  Being honest is fine.  If disbanding and letting 
it rest sounds good, though sad
perhaps it would be realistic?  

I better get ready for work so have a think and let me know if you guys think 
we should do something to
preserve our listserv.

NQ

--
Visit the VintagVW archives at 
http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen
Discussion List" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to
vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web 
visithttps://groups.google.com/d/msgid/vintagvw/CAKxGCtMDaCYYLgR_hn8fjGCzZcbAtfbSHJpGJiyGwnJ%3Di9iCvA%40mail.gmail.
com.




--
Visit the VintagVW archives at 
http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
--- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List" group.

To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/vintagvw/alpine.DEB.2.22.394.2111030828050.183880%40dcb-Gazelle-Professional.localdomain.

Re: [vintagvw] Is the list still active?

[Dave C. Bolen]

Ray,

I'll text him and see if he is getting the vintagvw mails.

cheers, dave

cheers, dave

On Wed, 3 Nov 2021, 'Ray Yoder' via VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion 
List wrote:


Thanks for your efforts!  Maybe we can bring Jim Anderson back

Sent from the all new AOL app for Android

  On Tue, Nov 2, 2021 at 8:00 PM, Lazlo
 wrote:
Okay I sent in a new request from a different email address and it says that it 
requires approval from
the listmod.  I also sent a message to the listmod so let's see what happens.  
I haven't found John on
facebook yet since it seems Sroka is a somewhat common name.  Thanks for 
putting up with my test posts
while I figure out what to do with this.
NQ

On Tue, Nov 2, 2021 at 6:49 PM Lazlo  wrote:
  I'm really surprised this list is still working.  It's nice to see all 
the familiar names
  once again!  I remember Kirin and Suleman, Gilbert Sy Chan, Rachel, Thom 
Fitzpatrick, Rob
  Kuhn, and many other greats!
I've been chatting with Nick of vwradios.com and he isn't able to post on the 
list so he will be
sending me something that I can share on his behalf.

He made the suggestion that whoever set up the list on google groups probably 
has deleted their
account or lost access to it.  That being the case, this is probably why the 
the only way you can
post anything here is via whatever email address you're currently subscribed 
with.  I can't even
reply via google groups and none of the commands I've tried will work.  It 
seems the list is
hanging on by a thread.

Is anyone interested in doing it the old way if I can find some listserv 
software and run it on a
dedicated server?  If so, I'll get something figured out.  I'm going to first 
of all see if I can
find John Sroka and ask him what's up with this google groups thing.  It seems 
as if it might be
abandoned.  I wouldn't care if I set up a new listserv and it didn't get used 
very often.  As it
stands, the last message I got with it was back in June of 2020 I think.

I'll do some research and let you all know what I find out.  I'll start with 
trying to track down
John and go from there.

NQ

On Tue, Nov 2, 2021 at 6:33 PM lloyd mcclelland  wrote:
Hi   VW vintage list  , I'm still here with VW projects ( hopefully waiting 
) I've passed the
'57 sedan on to Kafer Dave who finished a wonderful restoration , and bought 
another 87
Vanagon ..The '61 sunroof beetle still is hiding in the garage ... Nice to see 
these VW names
..Lloyd in Eureka CA.

On Nov 2, 2021, at 10:03 AM, 'Ray Yoder' via VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen 
Discussion List
 wrote:

This pic left a permanent image in my brain. Always loved your stories!! How 
is your wife
doing?
Anyone remember Suleman and his brother?  Think Suleman moved to the US but his 
brother was
in Pakistan?  Any updates on them?

Ray

Sent from the all new AOL app for Android

  On Sun, Oct 31, 2021 at 10:47 PM, Lazlo
 wrote:
Yep I still have them in their original format.  Funny how in the day, you 
could view
them just fine on a P166 machine and now they are so tiny with the higher 
resolutions
we run today.
https://elassleybie.incolor.com/temp/Mexibug/

I think I took these with my sister's Advantix camera and scanned them in.  
When I run
across the photos, I'll rescan with a better resolution.

I'm amazed you still remembered this.  It doesn't seem all that long ago, but I 
was as
old then as it has been years since!

NQ

On Sun, Oct 31, 2021 at 9:07 PM 'Scott S' via VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen
Discussion List  wrote:
  Nice to hear from you all!Scott Sportsman
73 Thing

Please excuse my spelling, message sent from my rotary dial phone.

  On Oct 31, 2021, at 7:51 PM, Kirin Jacobsen 
  wrote:

  I'm still kicking. Been sorting out my resto cal. Life's busy but I
  still remember the glory days. 
-Kirin

On Sun., Oct. 31, 2021, 5:40 p.m. 'Ray Yoder' via VintagVW - Air Cooled
Volkswagen Discussion List,  wrote:
  Hi NQ. do you still have the pic of you with the bug body on
  the roof?
Sadly we also lost Bill May some time ago. Anyone hear from Jim
Anderson?  

Sent from the all new AOL app for Android

  On Sun, Oct 31, 2021 at 2:47 PM, Lazlo
 wrote:
Nice to hear from you Bruce.  Can't you think of better things
to think about than me?  LOL!  Seriously it's nice to be
remembered.
I tried to subscribe another email address to the listserv and
there is just nothing I can do.  It's just locked up really
tight so I'm even wondering if any new subscribers can get on? 
We might just be locked down to whomever is here at the moment,
but I'm not for sure.

The glory days of the list seem to be in the past since and
it's a shame, but it's clearly evident why.  The mass use of
internet and the social media platforms have just completely
watered things down.  It used to be that if you "on the list"
you were automatically in a close-knit group that required some
level of computer savvy to find and get on to.  Admittedly

Re: [vintagvw] Is the list still active?

[Dave C. Bolen]

Hey guys,

Dave  still here!  Been working on another 78 bus and haven't touched my 
bug since NQ was here a couple of years ago.  The bus is nearing 
restoration completion and will go up for sale in the next month or so.


Read thru most of the reply mails so far.  All those folks that are gone 
are missed as everyone pitched in to help.


Jim Anderson is alive an kicking as he was at the Eureka Springs show this 
year.  We didn't have the show  last year for obvious reasons but it was 
excellent this year.



Cheers, dave

--
Visit the VintagVW archives at 
http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
--- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List" group.

To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/vintagvw/alpine.DEB.2.22.394.2111010753540.158555%40dcb-Gazelle-Professional.localdomain.

Re: [vintagvw] Air scoops, theoretically...

[Dave C. Bolen]

Guys,

Ok, I have a megasqirted turboed 1776 in my 68 bug.
I have the fiberglass side scoops and 2" holes drilled thru the body into 
the engine compartment at the end of the fiberglass scoops.  I also have a 
fiberglass scoop that goes across the entire vent area above the decklid.


I also have a covertible decklid with a couple of 2 inch holes behind the 
license plate.


The turbo is a lowbugget turbo that sits in the engine compartment.
All engine seals are intact and seal pretty well against the turbo pipes.
Stock doghouse oil cooler with vortex ring on the fan intake.

On a 100 degree day on a 23 mile backroad trip I run around 240 degrees.
If I push the turbo a lot I can push 260 or better but at that point I am 
pushing compressed(who know how hot) engine air into the intake.  This 
doen't happen often because engines don't like hot air on intake.


My opinion is that none of the scoops really helps.

The only thing that really makes a difference is decklid standoofs(which I 
don't really like).  With standoffs I can keep it a 220 all day long.


Ok, this is the internet age so go to google and ask for

air cooled vw bug wind tunnel


Thre are some new ones in there but this is the one I have watched
more than a few times.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LtXOUrTc_dA

Basically what it look like to me is that from about the top of the rear 
window the air floww "delaminates" from the car causing a vacuum in the 
rear.


The sides of the car "seem" about the same.

I am reminded of some of the gene berg writings where he is trying to test 
air scoops on a pre 67 bushe finally gives up as just having the front 
window open or the vent window open makes a big difference in air flow.


I did buy a CFM Anemometer and plan to use it on the two side holes I 
drilled but it hasn't happened yet.


Cheers, dave





On Mon, 3 Oct 2022, Eric Ridvan Üner wrote:


So this is anecdotal, but I do know of two people who, at the same time used 
side scoops on one beetle, and a roof scoop on the other (with a cool
flame job on a pseudo dune-style bug). Neither has stock engines. The side 
scoops were not at all effective, and the owner ended up with a new
decklid. The roof scoop was, in contrast, pretty effective, but still not 
ideal. 
This was actually the opposite of what I expected. 

Disclaimer: I am not an aeronautical engineer. But ... I can imagine the faster 
flowing air over the surface of the curved hood and roof creates a
slight vacuum. That might reduce the amount of cool air unless the scoop goes 
as close to the windshield as possible. The side scoops might not have
that vacuum, so I expected them to be more effective. Also, there was more area 
for a greater volume of air to enter. I think perhaps the lack of
vents combined with the scoops just created turbulence and trapped warm air, 
and the flat(ish) undercarriage did not create enough vacuum to pull the
warm air out. 

This is an observation based on no data and two vehicles 20 years ago, but 
that's all I've got. :-)

  On Oct 3, 2022, at 12:57 PM, 'Ray Yoder' via VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen 
Discussion List  wrote:

Things are looking up. A vintagVW post

Sent from the all new AOL app for Android

  On Mon, Oct 3, 2022 at 1:02 PM, D Johnson
 wrote:
I'm asking for a friend... Actually this is a theoretical question only, I'm 
not really thinking about doing this.
Has anyone converted the Super Beetle moon-shaped air inlets behind the rear 
quarter panels to route cool air to the engine compartment? 
I know I've seen engine-swapped beetles with air intakes in plexiglass rear 
quarter windows. But for a stock engine, if you wanted to use
a non vented deck lid, could you get enough air through the side vents if you 
put scoops on them? I'm intellectually curious if this has
been done and what internal modifications would need to have been made.

I"m putting a new gas tank in my '71 super and will be trying to resurrect the 
dual carbs this winter, hoping to have it on the road
again next year. It's been off the road due to both a catastrophic transaxle 
failure and a near catastrophic valve failure since 2008.
Life happens.
Fingers Crossed and I hope everybody is staying safe and sane out there.

Dean


--
Visit the VintagVW archives at 
http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
 
For help with posting messages, subscribing, unsubscribing or other needs send 
a blank email to vintagvw+h...@googlegroups.com

For any other questions (subscription status, problems) write to the list owner 
at vintagvw+ow...@googlegroups.com
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "VintagVW 
- Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit

Re: [vintagvw] Air scoops, theoretically...

[Dave C. Bolen]

Andy,

More like the speed of the vehicle is pushing fresh cool air into the 
engine area.


Cheers, dave

On Tue, 4 Oct 2022, andy wrote:


Maybe the reason the roof scoops are working the best is because the hot air is 
rising out of it and has a place to go?

On Tuesday, October 4, 2022 at 9:39:20 AM UTC-5 Dave C. Bolen wrote:
  Guys,

  Ok, I have a megasqirted turboed 1776 in my 68 bug.
  I have the fiberglass side scoops and 2" holes drilled thru the body into
  the engine compartment at the end of the fiberglass scoops. I also have a
  fiberglass scoop that goes across the entire vent area above the decklid.

  I also have a covertible decklid with a couple of 2 inch holes behind the
  license plate.

  The turbo is a lowbugget turbo that sits in the engine compartment.
  All engine seals are intact and seal pretty well against the turbo pipes.
  Stock doghouse oil cooler with vortex ring on the fan intake.

  On a 100 degree day on a 23 mile backroad trip I run around 240 degrees.
  If I push the turbo a lot I can push 260 or better but at that point I am
  pushing compressed(who know how hot) engine air into the intake. This
  doen't happen often because engines don't like hot air on intake.

  My opinion is that none of the scoops really helps.

  The only thing that really makes a difference is decklid standoofs(which I
  don't really like). With standoffs I can keep it a 220 all day long.

  Ok, this is the internet age so go to google and ask for

  air cooled vw bug wind tunnel


  Thre are some new ones in there but this is the one I have watched
  more than a few times.

  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LtXOUrTc_dA

  Basically what it look like to me is that from about the top of the rear
  window the air floww "delaminates" from the car causing a vacuum in the
  rear.

  The sides of the car "seem" about the same.

  I am reminded of some of the gene berg writings where he is trying to test
  air scoops on a pre 67 bushe finally gives up as just having the front
  window open or the vent window open makes a big difference in air flow.

  I did buy a CFM Anemometer and plan to use it on the two side holes I
  drilled but it hasn't happened yet.

  Cheers, dave





  On Mon, 3 Oct 2022, Eric Ridvan Üner wrote:

  > So this is anecdotal, but I do know of two people who, at the same time 
used side scoops on one beetle, and a roof scoop on the other
  (with a cool
  > flame job on a pseudo dune-style bug). Neither has stock engines. The 
side scoops were not at all effective, and the owner ended up
  with a new
  > decklid. The roof scoop was, in contrast, pretty effective, but still 
not ideal. 
  > This was actually the opposite of what I expected. 
  >
  > Disclaimer: I am not an aeronautical engineer. But ... I can imagine 
the faster flowing air over the surface of the curved hood and
  roof creates a
  > slight vacuum. That might reduce the amount of cool air unless the 
scoop goes as close to the windshield as possible. The side scoops
  might not have
  > that vacuum, so I expected them to be more effective. Also, there was 
more area for a greater volume of air to enter. I think perhaps
  the lack of
  > vents combined with the scoops just created turbulence and trapped warm 
air, and the flat(ish) undercarriage did not create enough
  vacuum to pull the
  > warm air out. 
  >
  > This is an observation based on no data and two vehicles 20 years ago, 
but that's all I've got. :-)
  >
  > On Oct 3, 2022, at 12:57 PM, 'Ray Yoder' via VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen 
Discussion List  wrote:
  >
  > Things are looking up. A vintagVW post
  >
  > Sent from the all new AOL app for Android
  >
  > On Mon, Oct 3, 2022 at 1:02 PM, D Johnson
  >  wrote:
  > I'm asking for a friend... Actually this is a theoretical question 
only, I'm not really thinking about doing this.
  > Has anyone converted the Super Beetle moon-shaped air inlets behind the 
rear quarter panels to route cool air to the engine
  compartment? 
  > I know I've seen engine-swapped beetles with air intakes in plexiglass 
rear quarter windows. But for a stock engine, if you wanted to
  use
  > a non vented deck lid, could you get enough air through the side vents 
if you put scoops on them? I'm intellectually curious if this
  has
  > been done and what internal modifications would need to have been made.
  >
  > I"m putting a new gas tank in my '71 super and will be trying to 
resurrect the dual carbs this winter, hoping to have it on the road
  > again next year. It's been off the road due to both a catastrophic 
transax

Re: [vintagvw] The list

[Dave C. Bolen]

Ditto!

Cheers, dave

On Sat, 17 Dec 2022, 'Ray Yoder' via VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen 
Discussion List wrote:


Seems to be. I got your message.
Ray

Sent from the all new AOL app for Android

  On Sat, Dec 17, 2022 at 6:23 AM, Jeffrey Bateman
 wrote:
Is the vintage vw site up and running somewhere?

--
Visit the VintagVW archives at 
http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com

For help with posting messages, subscribing, unsubscribing or other needs send 
a blank email to vintagvw+h...@googlegroups.com

For any other questions (subscription status, problems) write to the list owner 
at vintagvw+ow...@googlegroups.com
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "VintagVW 
- Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List"
group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/vintagvw/PH0PR10MB577937001F2DDDAAC0B8A8E9DEE79%40PH0PR10MB5779.namprd10.prod.outlook.com.

--
Visit the VintagVW archives at 
http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
 
For help with posting messages, subscribing, unsubscribing or other needs send 
a blank email to vintagvw+h...@googlegroups.com

For any other questions (subscription status, problems) write to the list owner 
at vintagvw+ow...@googlegroups.com
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "VintagVW 
- Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/vintagvw/322368960.121951.1671277387211%40mail.yahoo.com.




--
Visit the VintagVW archives at 
http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com

For help with posting messages, subscribing, unsubscribing or other needs send 
a blank email to vintagvw+h...@googlegroups.com

For any other questions (subscription status, problems) write to the list owner 
at vintagvw+ow...@googlegroups.com
--- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List" group.

To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/vintagvw/alpine.DEB.2.22.394.2212170838150.25325%40dcb-Gazelle-Professional.localdomain.

Re: [vintagvw] The list

[Dave C. Bolen]

NQ 

Magic words from your fabulous wife!


Plan what you want for a shop because you need one and I want you to have one."


Cheers, dave



On Sat, 17 Dec 2022, Lazlo wrote:


Sure enough you found the list.  It's nowhere near as active as it once was as 
most people have gone to facebook groups.  When the
listservs were super active in the late 1990s, I was in my mid to late 20s.  I 
just turned 51 last August.  None of my VWs run, but
my wife and I have just about got our house paid off and she has said repeatedly, 
"Plan what you want for a shop because you need one
and I want you to have one."  So I have some ideas in mind.  For sure it will 
include at least one vehicle lift and plenty of indoor
storage.  
Glad to hear back from everyone again.

NQ

On Sat, Dec 17, 2022 at 12:39 PM mbucch...@charter.net  
wrote:
I’m still here with my ‘59 Bug.   I’ve been restoring and rebuilding engines 
practically daily.  I’m one of the only guys in
the Northeastern US line-boring engines nowadays.   I’ve been keeping pretty 
busy….

I’m also a VW parts distributor now.

Let me know if I can help with anything.

Mike B.

My iPhone12 is ready for upgrade!
 

_
From: vintagvw@googlegroups.com  on behalf of Kirin 
Jacobsen 
Sent: Saturday, December 17, 2022 13:21
To: vintagvw@googlegroups.com 
Subject: Re: [vintagvw] The list 
I'm still here with the same bug. Just chasing running and shifting issues...
-Kirin

On Sat, Dec 17, 2022, 07:53 'Bruce Howard' via VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen 
Discussion List 
wrote:
  Working here!

Bruce

Get Outlook for Android

_
From: vintagvw@googlegroups.com  on behalf of Jeffrey 
Bateman 
Sent: Saturday, December 17, 2022 5:22:53 AM
To: vintagvw@googlegroups.com 
Subject: [vintagvw] The list  
Is the vintage vw site up and running somewhere?

--
Visit the VintagVW archives at 
http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com

For help with posting messages, subscribing, unsubscribing or other needs send 
a blank email to
vintagvw+h...@googlegroups.com
 
For any other questions (subscription status, problems) write to the list owner 
at vintagvw+ow...@googlegroups.com
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion
List" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/vintagvw/PH0PR10MB577937001F2DDDAAC0B8A8E9DEE79%40PH0PR10MB5779.namprd10.prod.outlook.com.

--
Visit the VintagVW archives at 
http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
 
For help with posting messages, subscribing, unsubscribing or other needs send 
a blank email to
vintagvw+h...@googlegroups.com

For any other questions (subscription status, problems) write to the list owner 
at vintagvw+ow...@googlegroups.com
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion
List" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/vintagvw/CO6P221MB07281B5EC382E454E0486EBDF8E79%40CO6P221MB0728.NAMP221.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM.

--
Visit the VintagVW archives at 
http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
 
For help with posting messages, subscribing, unsubscribing or other needs send 
a blank email to vintagvw+h...@googlegroups.com

For any other questions (subscription status, problems) write to the list owner 
at vintagvw+ow...@googlegroups.com
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "VintagVW 
- Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List"
group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/vintagvw/CAF7fBrN1vmkXkq3ERfwM2iUFRejBOjfERe2TK-QkmuFKhqrG2g%40mail.gmail.com.

--
Visit the VintagVW archives at 
http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com
 
For help with posting messages, subscribing, unsubscribing or other needs send 
a blank email to vintagvw+h...@googlegroups.com

For any other questions (subscription status, problems) write to the list owner 
at vintagvw+ow...@googlegroups.com
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "VintagVW 
- Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List"
group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit