Re: [Elecraft] Firmware download

[Don Wilhelm]

Bill,

When you click "Copy New Files from Elecraft" that is just what it 
does.  So by the time you could check the directory, it was already there.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/2/2023 4:19 PM, Bill Lederer wrote:

I'm using the "Elecraft K3 Utility v1.19.9.6".

Clicking on the "Copy New FIles from Elecraft" checks which files I have,
and says "One or more required files from Elecraft Server."

I visited the Elecraft page listing the firmware, and my directory has all
that are shown on the web.

Is there some step that I am missing?



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Re: [Elecraft] Tightening K2/100 PA device screws

[Don Wilhelm]

Eric,

You will need a #1 Phillips screwdriver.
Remove the 2 black screws just to the rear of the front panel,
Then the 2 screws on the upper part of the rear panel.
There is one screw on each side panel near the top center.
Now you should be able to remove the KPA100 from the base K2. Place it 
"upside down" on a box or book(s) placed just to the right of the base4 
K2 (it should be about 1/2 the height of the K2).

If you are careful, you can do it without removing the cables.

You will need to remove the screws holding the KPA100 shield. Slide the 
shield out from under the soldering lug located near the ANT jack.


There are 4 screws holding the PA transistors - you should be able to 
snug them down about 1/8 of a turn - do not "beef" them down, just make 
them snug.


Reinstall the shield, and put the KPA100 back on the K2 - Make sure all 
3 of the cables are still seated properly.  Put the 6 black screws back 
in and you should be good to go.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/27/2022 7:14 AM, eric norris via Elecraft wrote:

Dear K2 Wizards:
I bought a K2 from a friend's (WA6OCP, SK) estate, and had a 100w lid built 
into it by Dave, W8FGU) who also gave it a full checkout and realignment.  I've 
now got well over 10 hours of TX time on it, and according to the manual the PA 
screws need to be tightened.
My problem is I can't tell from the manual  exactly which screws to remove so I can 
pry the heat sink up.  I've lost my fine motor control in my hands, so this is going 
to be a bit more of an adventure than it would've been 10 years ago.  I'd also 
appreciate advice on which tool I'll need to tighten away (1/4" nut driver?) 
and just how much to tighten.  I suspect it's the same snugness I used on my own 
K2/10 back when dirt was new?
With SKN coming up quickly, I'm hoping to put this K2, and the HW-16 given to 
me by my Elmer, W5NYT (SK) on the air as my tribute to them.
Thanks for any advice!




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Re: [Elecraft] KUSB CABLE

[Don Wilhelm]

Dave,

Get one with the FTDI chipset and you should be OK.  There are others, 
but do not buy one with the Prolific chipset.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/11/2022 5:27 PM, dave arruzza via Elecraft wrote:

To all: I believe my KUSB cable has gone bad due to a power failure
Since the power failure a red light is blinking from within the RS232 housing 
and random dits are generated.
Is there a "over the counter" ie: Amazon etc. equivalent.



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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 stopped working

[Don Wilhelm]

Hans,

First of all, check to see if you have power to the KAT100 - you should 
have 12 volts on both ends of RFC2.
If that is correct, check to be certain there is +5 volts at pin 2 of 
U2, U3 and U4.
If all is well so far, suspect that either the MCU (U1) or U2, U3 and U4 
have failed.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/4/2022 4:14 AM, Hans Bonnesen via Elecraft wrote:

After two years of flawless function my combo-installation ( k2 + KAT100) 
stopped working.
The friendly chatter of relays when pressing the tune button went silent, and 
the line of small lamps on the front of the KAT100 went up all the way in RED.
while the display showed ( excessive power)Iswithed off the set entirely to 
prevent a burn out of the PA-transistors.
Furtheer investigation showed that these were unharmed, but apparently the 
relays of the automatic tuner do not work anymore.
What went wrong here, and how to remedy?




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Re: [Elecraft] K2 with narrow USB transmit audio

[Don Wilhelm]

Chris,

Yes it would.  You can de-tune a bit to make RX sound OK, but you can't 
do that in transmit.

Make sure the filter selected for SSB is the OP1 filter.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/6/2022 2:06 PM, Chris wrote:

Hi Don,

Thank you for the info.  The issue with my K2 is with the transmit 
audio, so would the same BFO frequency for the receiver affect the 
transmitter?


Best,

Chris KM1B


On Sun, Nov 6, 2022 at 1:56 PM Don Wilhelm  wrote:

Chris,

That condition is normally the result of improper alignment of the
BFO
frequencies for the upper sideband.
There should be no difference is width for LSB and USB that could be
blamed on a part.

Use an audio spectrum analyzer (Spectrogram for instance) for best
results when aligning the filters, and set the low frequency
"knee" of
the passband at 300 Hz.  If possible use a broadband noise
generator at
the antenna connection, or you can often use "dead band noise" (no
signals within the bandpass).

73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/5/2022 6:41 PM, Chris wrote:
> Hello,
>
> I have three K2's, and one of them has a very strange symptom. 
It works
> well in LSB and CW, but USB transmit audio seems very narrow. 
Receive
> audio in all modes works well with no issues.
>
>



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 with narrow USB transmit audio

[Don Wilhelm]

Chris,

That condition is normally the result of improper alignment of the BFO 
frequencies for the upper sideband.
There should be no difference is width for LSB and USB that could be 
blamed on a part.


Use an audio spectrum analyzer (Spectrogram for instance) for best 
results when aligning the filters, and set the low frequency "knee" of 
the passband at 300 Hz.  If possible use a broadband noise generator at 
the antenna connection, or you can often use "dead band noise" (no 
signals within the bandpass).


73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/5/2022 6:41 PM, Chris wrote:

Hello,

I have three K2's, and one of them has a very strange symptom.  It works
well in LSB and CW, but USB transmit audio seems very narrow.  Receive
audio in all modes works well with no issues.




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Re: [Elecraft] Recommendation for Microphone for K3s?

[Don Wilhelm]

Bernie,

I think Heil microphones are overpriced, but if you like the looks of 
them, the perhaps that is an over-riding factor.


You can plug any mic with a Kenwood 8 pin connector into the front mic 
jack.  There are many Kenwood compatible mics on the market - but stay 
away from the amplified types (or turn the preamp off if it has one).  
Most are dynamic mics, so turn bias off.


Take a look at Universal Radio for decent prices.

If you would like a headset mic, I have 2 of the Yamaha CM500s that I 
like - you can plug those directly into the rear jacks for headphones 
and mic.  Whatever the sales literature says, it has an electret mic, so 
it needs bias turned on (unless you use the little battery box that 
comes with it.
Look at audio stores to source this headset - Sweetwater Sounds, B 
Photo are 2 reputable places that I know of.


Actually most any computer type microphone will work fine, and they are 
quite inexpensive.  They are all electret type and need bias turned on.


Finally, you can tailor the sound of any mic using the TX EQ built into 
the K3 - no need for a specially shaped microphone response. See Jim 
Brown K9YC's recommendations (repeated many times on this reflector) for 
your initial settings.
Those settings are for communications clarity and not for "broadcast 
quality".  If you want "broadcast quality", you should be buying a 
broadcast station IMHO, not ham radio communications.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/1/2022 5:12 PM, Bernie and Cheryl wrote:

Dear Folks:

Although I'm primarily a CW op, and dabble in FT8 (sadly, sometimes 
there's no one on anywhere else except for FT8), I'm thinking about 
expanding my SSB presence on the bands.  I have a K3s and would be 
interested if anyone has a specific recommendation for a good 
microphone?  I'm thinking about one of the Heil microphones (either 
the Heil Gold or the Heil HM-10XD) but am willing to look at anything 
else someone may recommend.




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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Faulty menu switch?

[Don Wilhelm]

Jerry,

Yes I see the photo.

Although it looks like the copper is intact, I would scrape away a bit 
of the silkscreen on each end of the damaged area and then solder a 
small gauge wire across the damage.  If you have some #24 wire (from 
ethernet cable for instance) use that rather then the #22 wire supplied 
with the K2 kit.
It is usually best to route the wire along the original PC board trace 
so you can tack it in place at several places along the way from end to end.


Reflow the solder on the encoder board just in case that is the problem.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/22/2022 9:33 PM, Gerald Wolczanski wrote:

Don, indeed it was the FP encoder board touching the back of the
control board.  I'm attaching a photo, which I guess only Don can see.
The PCB traces are dinged up, exactly .3" apart.  Two things:

1)  Wonder if the control board or the encoder board may have been been
damaged by these boards touching?  Occasionally, in these last few
days, the encoder freezes up and a tap on the menu switch gets it back
to normal.  Even after I trimmed the encoder board leads and put a
piece of think plastic material between the control board and the
encoder board, I still get the occasional encoder freeze-up.
2)  Can I try and flow some solder on those damaged traces?

Thanks so much for your help!

Jerry
KI4IO
Warrenton, VA







On Sat, 2022-10-15 at 17:36 -0400, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Jerry,

That does sound like it might be a bad solder connection.
Try resoldering Front Panel RP1 and U2.  Those components are
critical
to decoding the switch matrix.
You might also try reseating Control Board U6 - but do so in a static
controlled manner.

With that 7xxx serial number, you might instead have a problem with
the
FP Encoder board contacting the back of the Control Board which
causes
"strange things" to happen.
Flush cut all leads on the encoder board (right through the solder
fillet) and also on the Control Board where the encoder board could
contact.
As an extra measure, put an insulator (fish paper is best, but a
piece
of card stock or better yet, a piece of flat plastic (like from many
forms of plastic packaging) between the encoder and the control
board.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/12/2022 5:51 PM, Gerald Wolczanski wrote:

from KI4io - Jerry Wolczanski

My K2 started exhibiting this problem in June and it's gotten
worse.
The LCD toggles rapidly between the frequency and the last menu
used.
A tap on the menu switch restores the display to normal.  It was
quite
infrequent to start, but now it's bothersome, happening every 10 -
15
minutes.

I re-flowed the switch contacts on the front-panel board this
morning,
but the problem persists.

Is this a switch issue or something else?

K2 S/N 7xxx

KI4IO
Jerry Wolczanski
Warrenton, VA



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Faulty menu switch?

[Don Wilhelm]

Jerry,

That does sound like it might be a bad solder connection.
Try resoldering Front Panel RP1 and U2.  Those components are critical 
to decoding the switch matrix.
You might also try reseating Control Board U6 - but do so in a static 
controlled manner.


With that 7xxx serial number, you might instead have a problem with the 
FP Encoder board contacting the back of the Control Board which causes 
"strange things" to happen.
Flush cut all leads on the encoder board (right through the solder 
fillet) and also on the Control Board where the encoder board could contact.
As an extra measure, put an insulator (fish paper is best, but a piece 
of card stock or better yet, a piece of flat plastic (like from many 
forms of plastic packaging) between the encoder and the control board.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/12/2022 5:51 PM, Gerald Wolczanski wrote:

from KI4io - Jerry Wolczanski

My K2 started exhibiting this problem in June and it's gotten worse.
The LCD toggles rapidly between the frequency and the last menu used.
A tap on the menu switch restores the display to normal.  It was quite
infrequent to start, but now it's bothersome, happening every 10 - 15
minutes.

I re-flowed the switch contacts on the front-panel board this morning,
but the problem persists.

Is this a switch issue or something else?

K2 S/N 7xxx

KI4IO
Jerry Wolczanski
Warrenton, VA



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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Question on S-Meter Calibration

[Don Wilhelm]

Greg,

The KX3 is designed around having the preamp on most of the time.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/10/2022 1:58 PM, WA1JXR ALGIERI wrote:

I have noticed with my KX3 that the S-Meter is not calibrated that is 50 
microvolts (-73 dBm) at the antenna connector equals a S9 signal only when the 
preamp is turned on. Is this normal and the way the KX3 is designed?
I thought it might be with the preamp off.

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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 frequency memories question

[Don Wilhelm]

On the multiple lists vs. one list:
As long as the individual product is placed in the subject line, 
multiple products are easily dealt with using filters.
Filter the posts any way you want (including deleting them) - learn how 
to use filters in your email client and you can do things such as moving 
the particular post to a specific folder in your email client list.


It is not hard, just read the section of your email client instructions 
on filters.


I would prefer one list - I have been working that way for at least 10 
years.
As Jack said, it depends on putting the product in the subject line - if 
not, you can move it manually.
BTW, I use Thunderbird for my email client, and I receive individual 
posts.  Working with the digest is another problem entirely.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/2/2022 5:22 PM, Jack Brindle via Elecraft wrote:

Rick;

While I agree that it is pretty much critical to have the device name in the 
subject line, it would be a nightmare for the Elecraft support / development 
folks to follow multiple email lists. This is the reason that just a few lists 
were set up (I believe just one until the K4 came out).




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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] CAL-PLL Question

[Don Wilhelm]

Wolfgang,

In my experience, that is not necessary.
It IS necessary to have the bottom cover in place before running CAL PLL.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/30/2022 11:25 AM, Wolfgang wrote:

Hi,

in a german QRP forum I found this hint from Peter, DL2FI (SK).


   In any case, the PLL calibration must be redone whenever the bottom 
cover of the K2 has been opened.


This statement does not correspond to the instructions in the K2 
manual and other contributions here. Also, I can't understand the 
reason behind this statement.


Therefore my question, of it is really so that "CAL-PLL" must be done 
again after *each opening* of the lower housing cover?


Since Peter is SK, I can unfortunately no longer ask him myself.

73, Wolfgang
DL2KI



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Re: [Elecraft] My K2 lost audio

[Don Wilhelm]

Chris,

Do you still have sidetone?  If so Control Board U9 is still active, so 
check the MUTE signal and CB Q6 and Q7 operation.


If you have the KDSP2 installed, remove it and install 2 wire jumpers 
one between CB J1 pin 1 and CB J2  pin 1.  The second jumper between CB 
J1 pin 2 and CB J2 pin 2.

If that restores the audio, you have a problem on the KDSP2.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/29/2022 2:07 PM, Chris wrote:

A quick update on this.  George, W1JHR, suggested checking the faulty
headphone jack.  It could be an easy fix, but my case is different because
I don't get audio on the headphone jack either.  The issue seems to be
somewhere on the AF circuit.

I get the audio back if I leave the radio turned off long enough, but it
disappears about 10 minutes after powering on, so something must trigger
the loss of receive audio.  Any suggestions will be helpful.

Many thanks,

Chris KM1B


On Tue, Jul 26, 2022 at 10:43 AM Chris  wrote:


Hello,

I have two K2/100, and one of them developed an issue last night.  It
suddenly lost audio.  The S-meter is working, and it transmits fine but no
receive audio.  When I leave it long enough, the audio comes back
occasionally, then goes off.  I get the same results from the headphones,
so the issue must be in the AF section.  Any suggestions?

Many thanks,

Chris KM1B



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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 and Heatsink

[Don Wilhelm]

Bill,

If you run 12 watts on AM, FM and digital then the supplied heatsink 
(assuming it is the newer heatsink the wraps around the bottom of the 
KX3) then it should be adequate.
If you want to run the full 15 watts on those modes, I would suggest 
adding the Pro Audio Engineering heatsink for additional cooling of the PA.


Early versions of the heatsink had only a plate on the back which was 
adequate for 12 watts on low duty cycle operation - Tx for 2 minutes and 
then a RX period of about 3 minutes or more.


The KX3 will protect itself by reducing power if it gets too hot.

73,
Don W3FPR
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Re: [Elecraft] Have a K-2 SN 01049

[Don Wilhelm]

Tim,

Most importantly, ask him if I upgraded it with the A to B upgrades.
SN 01949 is pretty old.
If can give me his name and callsign, I can search through my records

73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/31/2022 6:08 PM, Tim Tucker wrote:

Thanks Don.  He says that you're the one that built it for him and has been
back to you a couple of times (for what, I'm not sure). I'll ask him for
the serial number; it's the K2/100 with DSP and SSB, as well as the KAT100
to go with it.

Tim

On Tue, May 31, 2022 at 2:46 PM Don Wilhelm  wrote:


Tim,

There are several variations of a K2, so the fair price depends on the
state of the upgrades (as well as the options installed).  If it is
above SN3000 and if the KPA100 has been upgraded, it should bring a fair
price.
He should state which upgrades and options have been installed.
If it is below SN3000, and has not been upgraded, it will have a low
price, but if above 3000 with all upgrades he should get a good price.
There is a good list of upgrades in the K2AtoB instructions for the base
K2 (except for the upgraded IF Crystals).

I have a K2 SN 00020 that has been FULLY upgraded, and it performs just
like a new one.
Serial numbers above 6400 have all updates included already, but the one
Chris asked about is SN 1049 and may need a lot of options.  When I was
working on the K2 a full set of options was price at about $500 and
likely is higher now.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/31/2022 5:14 PM, Tim Tucker wrote:

Once you figure it out and if you do sell, please let us know what you

get

for it. A local here has a loaded K2/100 that he's been trying to sell

for

a while but has only received what he perceives as low offers.  I'm
interested to find out where the market for these is at.

Tim
AE6LX

On Tue, May 31, 2022 at 1:55 PM George Paul Linehan III via Elecraft <
elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote:


Considering selling but need to figure out what is installed, as I

haven’t

used the rig much after purchase. Elecraft is missing a block of

records.

They suggest opening up & taking pics. Any others thoughts appreciated.
It’s the QRP version with a tuner. Thanks. Paul WA6YCA
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Re: [Elecraft] Have a K-2 SN 01049

[Don Wilhelm]

Tim,

There are several variations of a K2, so the fair price depends on the 
state of the upgrades (as well as the options installed).  If it is 
above SN3000 and if the KPA100 has been upgraded, it should bring a fair 
price.

He should state which upgrades and options have been installed.
If it is below SN3000, and has not been upgraded, it will have a low 
price, but if above 3000 with all upgrades he should get a good price.
There is a good list of upgrades in the K2AtoB instructions for the base 
K2 (except for the upgraded IF Crystals).


I have a K2 SN 00020 that has been FULLY upgraded, and it performs just 
like a new one.
Serial numbers above 6400 have all updates included already, but the one 
Chris asked about is SN 1049 and may need a lot of options.  When I was 
working on the K2 a full set of options was price at about $500 and 
likely is higher now.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/31/2022 5:14 PM, Tim Tucker wrote:

Once you figure it out and if you do sell, please let us know what you get
for it. A local here has a loaded K2/100 that he's been trying to sell for
a while but has only received what he perceives as low offers.  I'm
interested to find out where the market for these is at.

Tim
AE6LX

On Tue, May 31, 2022 at 1:55 PM George Paul Linehan III via Elecraft <
elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote:


Considering selling but need to figure out what is installed, as I haven’t
used the rig much after purchase. Elecraft is missing a block of records.
They suggest opening up & taking pics. Any others thoughts appreciated.
It’s the QRP version with a tuner. Thanks. Paul WA6YCA
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Re: [Elecraft] Troubleshooting KIO2

[Don Wilhelm]

Dave,

What is the serial number of your K2 - if it is below 3000 and has not 
been upgraded with the A to B mods, you could have damaged the MCU.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/27/2022 7:58 PM, Dave Sublette wrote:

Interesting. Thanks!

Dave

On Fri, May 27, 2022 at 7:53 PM David Woolley 
wrote:


It's going to be similar to the application circuit in section 7.1 of
, except
that not all the wires may be connected, and, in particular, any that
conflict with the K2's use of a pin on the connector for Auxbus won't be
connected.  (The KIO2 documentation will tell you which pins are
actually used in a standard way.)

It's just possible that they have left out the level convertors, as it
would probably work without them.

Assuming it has the level convertors, the standard tool for looking at
what is happening will be something like this:
<
https://czh-labs.com/products/czh-labs-rs232-led-link-tester-module-db9-male-to-db9-female>

(picked at random from a Google search.  If it doesn't have level
convertors, the LEDs may only light up for one state, of the nominally
bipolar signal.  (If auxbus is on one of the monitored pins, it might be
disrupted, but the resistor on the LED should ensure that there is no
permanent damage.  It would be better to do it on the end of the
official KIO2 to RS232 cable, though.

Incidentally the S in USB stands for serial, but it is different, and
much more complex, serial protocol.

Also, I found the price eye watering, given what is probably in it; the
problem with very low production run products.  Things like Arduino
throw in all but the level convertors and DB9 connectors, as just part
of something that sells for under GBP 10, although current Arduinos use
an AtMega microcontroller chip, rather than the FTDI chip.

Before considering alternatives, do beware of the the vulnerable,
Auxbus, signal on the non-standard K2 connector.

My PC motherboard was selected because it had a real RS232C asynchronous
port.

--
David Woolley
Owner K2 06123

On 27/05/2022 20:41, Dave Sublette wrote:

It would be nice to have a schematic of the KUSB cable.

If anyone has experience troubleshooting this sort of thing or knows

where

to get more information, please let me know.



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Re: [Elecraft] Added info KIO2 troubleshooting

[Don Wilhelm]

Dave,

Disconnect pin 1 of your built adapter.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/27/2022 3:46 PM, Dave Sublette wrote:

Sorry... I forgot to say that I am using a short adapter cable, DB9-M to
DB-9F that eliminates all wire connections except for pins 1,2,3, and 5,
per instructions in the K2 Manual. It is new.  I just built it and it
checks out with an ohmmeter.

FYI This K2 has talked to this computer before, but has been through a
recent repair cycle.  The KUSB cable might be bad, but until I get
schematics or voltage table data, I have no way of knowing.  As I said
before, the DB-9 connector on the KUSB cable does get warm like there is
something at work in there.

Thanks,

Dave, K4TO
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Re: [Elecraft] Troubleshooting KIO2

[Don Wilhelm]

Dave,

DO NOT PLUG THE USB TO SERIAL CABLE DIRECTLY  INTO THE KIO2!!  It will 
cause 'strange happpenings' and can even damage to the K2.


There is a special cable with a DE9 male on one end and a DE9 female on 
the other end.  The instructions for building it are in the KIO2 
manual.  it does not have to be very long, but it MUST be in place 
between the USB to RS232 adapter and the KIO2 connector.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/27/2022 3:41 PM, Dave Sublette wrote:

Good afternoon,

I have a K2 that refuses to talk to my computer. The computer software
works and talks to my K3s and an RT21 rotator controller using a straight
USB cables.

The K2 has a serial port and requires the KUSB cable which plugs into the
USB port and terminates in a DB-9 connector.  It is warm, so I assume there
is a chip in there, doing what is required to convert USB to serial.

The KUSB cable is recognized when connected to the USB.  Voltage check at
  pins 5,3,2,and 1 per the KIO2 manual are good.

All looks like it would work, but it doesn't.

If anyone has experience troubleshooting this sort of thing or knows where
to get more information, please let me know.

Any help would be appreciated.

73,

Dave, K4TO



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Re: [Elecraft] K1 accessories

[Don Wilhelm]

Chris,

That is quite feasible - getting a board is the starting problem.

If you can find a 2 band board for any band(s), you can order the 
crystals for the bands you want from Elecraft.
They may also have the K1 band kits in stock which have the capacitors 
required for that band.  Worst case, you may have to order the 
capacitors separately if Elecraft no longer has the K1 band kits.
If Elecraft no longer has the crystals, you may have to order custom 
crystals - they must be fundamental mode crystals - overtone mode will 
not work properly.
See the K1 band kit instructions for the components required. Download 
the instructions from Elecraft website.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/1/2022 7:50 PM, Chris Chapman wrote:

Hello all,

I've been able to buy a K1 here in VK.  It is in excellent condition (Ser. No 3380) 
and has 20 & 40m only.

I know Elecraft stopped supporting some time ago and accessories etc are pretty much 
discontinued.  I'm interested in getting 15 & 17m band modules - can anyone offer any 
thoughts on where I might ask around - or advertise a "wanted"  Other than 
eHam.net.

Thanks in advance,

Chris VK3QB
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 ERR KEY message

[Don Wilhelm]

That message means that for some reason or another. the K3 is detecting 
a key closure on power up.
Check your key and the contact spacing first, and then proceed to 
anything that may be causing  that message.

Don't overlook a stuck PTT switch, which can cause the same message.

If all else fails, unplug the key and the microphone - it should come up 
without the message - then plug them in one at a time, power up and see 
which is causing the

ERR message.

If you are using a straight key with a mono plug. change it to a stereo 
plug and use the KEY jack on the K3 rather than the paddles jack.


73,
Don W3FPR


On 4/12/2022 9:25 PM, John D Freed wrote:

I was upgrading my elecraft k3 (ser# 7023) to the latest firmware.  I now have 
the following message:  ERR KEY.  anyone have a solution to fix this 
situation??  I would like to know how to clear this error and get my rig up and 
operating.
John KX6F
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Re: [Elecraft] [POSSIBLE SPAM] Re: Shipping via UPS - A Lesson Learned the Hard Way

[Don Wilhelm]

The "problem" With shipping via UPS (at least when I was doing it) was 
that If the insurance was $1000 or more, you had to arrange a pickup 
(small pickup charge) and give the package to a UPS driver and obtain 
his signature.
That was more than 5 years ago, so the rules might have changed. I never 
used a UPS Store for shipping.  I did have a local UPS shipping site 
that was much more pleasant to use - as long as I had a UPS shipping 
label attached (from my UPS account) - a small matter of signing up for 
a UPS account all I had to do was drop off the package (again if the 
insurance was below the UPS insurance 'clip point'.


Know the rules, they are fair if you follow them.  I did not ship FedEx 
unless my customer provided me with a shipping label - I did not have a 
FedEX account.


BTW - there are several non UPS shipping places (independent) that are 
better than the UPS store, but if the insurance value is high, the same 
thing applies, you will have to ask them when the UPS truck arrives, and 
wait to get the driver's signature.


Since when I was shipping regularly I had no problem because UPS arrived 
at my home most every day.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/11/2022 6:50 PM, Dr. William J. Schmidt wrote:

The secret to this is getting your own UPS account online.  Its FREE.  Then 
printing out the REAL UPS labels and getting the real UPS PRICE 
online(nothing fancy needed except a printer).   THEN dropping your package 
off at the local UPS STORE.  FREE.   You will also find that UPS will start 
sending you coupons for 10-20% off shipping.  I found this out using UPS for my 
businesses.


Dr. William J. Schmidt - K9HZ J68HZ 8P6HK ZF2HZ PJ4/K9HZ VP5/K9HZ PJ2/K9HZ 
VP2EHZ

email:  b...@wjschmidt.com


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Mike Fatchett
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2022 5:41 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [POSSIBLE SPAM] Re: [Elecraft] Shipping via UPS - A Lesson Learned the 
Hard Way

They are franchise type stores and the rates are ridiculous.  My son worked at 
one for about a year.   At least they gave you the honest answer and were able 
to handle at an actual UPS shipping location.  The shipping rates are higher 
too.

W0MU

On 4/11/2022 4:29 PM, eda...@aya.yale.edu wrote:

I just shipped some of my Elecraft gear to someone who had purchased
it from me.  The agreement was that I would ship it and they would
bear the shipping expense.  The buyer was OK with my using UPS.

   


So I packed it up and took it to "The UPS Store."  There are about 30
of them in the Denver metro area and about a dozen in the city itself.
Before taking the package there I looked at UPS on-line to see what
insurance would cost.  The UPS site said $1.05 per hundred dollars in
excess of the $100 included in the shipping rate.  When I arrived at
the UPS Store they charged me $4.50 per $100.  That difference times
the value of what I was shipping came to well over $100.  When I
questioned it (more accurately, when I complained about it) they told
me that UPS and The UPS Store are different entities.  The latter,
they said, is a network of franchises independent of the real UPS that
"works with" UPS for retail shipping and receiving.  So what I had
seen on the UPS website was what UPS charges, not the grossly inflated
premium The UPS Store charges.  OK, I asked, how can I ship this via
UPS itself?  The answer was a 90 minute round-trip drive to the nearest real 
UPS terminal.

   


The UPS Store does not charge real UPS rates.  They have UPS in their name.
They use a logo indistinguishable from the UPS logo.  Their counter
clerks wear UPS Brown.  There was a standar UPS truck parked in front of the 
shop.
There was NOTHING visible to me in the store that indicated it wasn't
a UPS shop.  Maybe everyone on this reflector already knows about
this.  Until this morning I didn't.

   


There's an old maxim that a happy customer tells one other person
about their experience.  An unhappy customer tells ten other people.

   


Ted, KN1CBR

   


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Mike W0MU

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Post: 

Re: [Elecraft] K3 MCU download /

[Don Wilhelm]

Go to the manual and look up how to recover from that condition (Forcing 
a firmware download).
It on page 42 of my old manual under Firmware Updates, the page may have 
changed in newer manuals.

It is easy to do and does not have to  go to a repair facility.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/3/2022 1:37 PM, hp via Elecraft wrote:

Here is one line from an EA6 message about a K3 he just purchased .

Elecraft K3 is stuck at MCU LD and need to be sent to Italy to Elecraft 
Official Service to recover it.

Are there any tricks to recover without sending it to a service site ??

I have told him how to subscribe to the reflector and gave him a link to the 
archives
but maybe someone has a quick answer which I can forward to him .

Hank K7HP



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Re: [Elecraft] Heat Sink Compound Question

[Don Wilhelm]

Tony,

Elecraft has always used the thermal pads.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/29/2022 5:24 PM, Tony wrote:

All:

It seems that thermal compounds are not all the same and I was 
wondering which type is best to use for transceiver applications? I 
understand Elecraft uses thermal pads these days, but what type of 
compound was used prior to the switch?


Just purchased a produced called MX-5 from Arctic which is commonly 
used for CPU applications and was wondering if it can be used for HF 
transceivers, kits etc.


See: 
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08T64M68V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8=1


Thanks,

Tony

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 help with S Meter Cal.

[Don Wilhelm]

Pete,

If you turn the RF Gain down gradually, do you get a progression of LEDs 
to light one at a time?
If so turn the RF Gain fully clockwise and then adjust Control Board R1 
to obtain 6 volts at CB U2 pin 5.

After that, adjust CAL S Low and CAL S Hi.
If your K2 SN is lower than 3000, R1 is  FIXED RESISTOR.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/25/2022 4:42 PM, Pete Meier via Elecraft wrote:

Hello,

My K2, which I purchased mostly built, had some issues which I appear to have 
repaired.

However in starting the alignments with AGC and S-Meter, I find an issue which 
just began where I cannot get a single barograph segment to light.
In DOT bargraph mode in S CAL LO I cannot get just 1 segment to light. It jumps 
from nothing to 4 segments.
This just began as I have adjusted the S meter previously.

Does anyone have an idea what is causing this?  I’d appreciate any suggestions.

BTW -  Voltage and Current draws are correct.  13.8V and 220ma in Receive mode.

Pete WK8S
pmeier @ me . com
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Re: [Elecraft] Knowles HC-3 Mic Element Replacement For Heil HC-5

[Don Wilhelm]

I agree with Fred (Skip)- electret mic elements are hard to beat, 
especially with Elecraft rigs or others which have frequency 
compensation.  The electret elements are small and inexpensive.  With 
their flat responses, they will need some equalization for use as ham 
mics - reduced low frequency response mainly.  If you want a boost in 
the 3000 to 3500 Hz, equalization Will do it.  They do need bias to 
function, but that is no problem with Elecraft gear, just turn bias on 
in the menu.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/21/2022 6:15 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:

"It would be great if these elements could be modified to perform better"

Au contraire, Tony.  They were designed for a particular purpose and 
they perform very well for that purpose.  Unfortunately, that purpose 
is just not normally found in ham radio.


It is very hard to beat electret mics.  They're cheap, tiny, have flat 
responses, and tend to be immune to breath-blasts if you talk across 
them rather than into them. Some mics [dynamic and especially ribbon 
velocity mics] will emphasize the lows as you move close to them.  The 
classic RCA 44-BX series [fairly large, prismatic-shaped one, Johnny 
Carson used to have one on his desk] was particularly afflicted ... 
when I was 17 and on AM, I sounded like I was 17.  Crawl up very close 
to the -BX and I sounded like Morgan Freeman playing God in "Bruce 
Almighty."  There is little speech information in the low frequencies 
but a lot of power. Electrets are generally less prone to this.  Most 
of today's rigs provide the DC bias electrets require right on the mic 
connector.




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Re: [Elecraft] De-soldering Tool Recommendations?

[Don Wilhelm]

Dave and all,

I have not used the Pace desoldering tool, but I have plenty of 
experience with the Hakko 808.
The vacuum pump needs to be disassembled and cleaned of solder flux 
occasionally and once that is done, it has plenty of suction.  That 
means the holes and plastic "flappers" in the pump need to be cleaned - 
I used alcohol successfully.  Pay attention (or take photos) when 
disassembling and it will go back together just fine.


Between the pump cleaning, it is necessary to clean out the nozzle after 
a dozen or so solder connections - use the tool that matches the nozzle 
diameter.  The larger "collector tube" that catches the solder needs to 
be cleaned as well.  You need to change the filters often - if you are 
using it a lot, keep a goodly supply of those ceramic filters on hand - 
they are not cheap, but become ineffective when they fill up with flux 
and solder bits (reduced vacuum).


I used it for over 10 years while repairing the Elecraft legacy products.
In fact I had 2 of them so I did not have to change from a small slender 
tip to a larger tip.  If you are using one constantly, having 2 is a big 
help, but that is not for everyone.  For similar reasons, when I was 
doing professional woodworking, I had 5 routers, 2 were dedicated to 
their attachments, but the other 3 were available to mount a variety of 
bits for the project being worked on.  A hobbyist can get along with 
one, but a professional wants dedicated tools - time is money.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/14/2022 6:24 PM, Dave Fugleberg wrote:

Back when I was a bench tech doing component level repair, I used a vacuum
desoldering station from Pace (I forget the model). That thing worked
great- I pulled hundreds (maybe thousands) of through-hole parts from
boards with it.

They were (and are) expensive, but so are time and PC boards, so my
employer equipped every bench with one. It had a glass tube in the handset
that collected the solder. As long as you cleaned it regularly, it worked.

I recently looked at some used ones but still couldn’t justify the price
for my hobby needs, so I continue to use a variety of means to remove
solder. None are as good as the Pace. I’ve been tempted to buy a Hakko or
one of its knock offs, but reviews generally say they don’t have enough
suction. I’d love to hear an honest comparison between the Pace and the
Hakko from someone who has used both.

73 de W0ZF

On Mon, Mar 14, 2022 at 9:26 AM jerry  wrote:


It's hard to beat a good old big blue Soldapullt.

To remove the offending part with minimal damage to its surroundings,
it's generally
wise to chop the part off its leads first.  Then if you have access to
both sides of the
board, you can heat each land with a soldering iron and pull the lead
out with a pair
of tweezers or needle-nose pliers.  Then suck the land clean with the
soldapullt.
Alternatively, you can clean it with solder wick, and poke the hole
through with a
toothpick.

I haven't had much luck with desoldering irons.  I did buy a
desoldering station.
It has a vacuum pump in the base unit, and a separate iron in a stand,
with a vacuum
chamber and filter.  The pump starts when you pull the trigger on the
iron.  It's a
Chinese copy of a Hakko.  First of all, the pump is not very strong.
Not that much airflow
or suction.  Much less than a Soldapullt.  Second, it takes it a LONG
time to warm up,
I guess because the desoldering head has high mass.

 - Jerry KF6VB




On 2022-03-13 22:06, Tony wrote:

All:

Can anyone recommend a budget de-soldering iron that can be used in
tight places? I need to remove a small component that has a few
surface mount devices close by so the iron would need to have a small
tip.

Also need advice on the best soldering iron to use for this type of
work as well as the best low-temp Rosin core solder to use.

Thanks,

Tony -K2MO

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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 Power Switch

[Don Wilhelm]

Dwayne,

I believe Elecraft has replacement switches.
You can try reversing the switch, only one side is used - remove it and 
turn it around.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/13/2022 11:25 AM, Dwayne Barbee via Elecraft wrote:

The power switch for my KX1 has stopped working, does anyone know of a 
reputable source for a replacement? Thanks!

Dwayne KE4RVT

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Loses FT8 Rig Control Connection

[Don Wilhelm]

Murray,

What microphone is your K2 wired for?  Check the microphone 
configuration header on the front panel if you don't know - the info on 
plugging the header is in the KSB2 manual.


I don't know the wiring for that Kenwood adapter, but it may be 
connecting to the wrong pin for your K2 mic wiring.

If your mic is configured for either Elecraft or Kenwood, it should work.

Have you checked the speaker (or Line) output settings in the computer?  
They may be too high.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/11/2022 2:01 PM, Murray wrote:
I have a K2 with the KIO2 and KSB2 options. I am using WSJT-X with a 
USB/serial adapter connecting my PC to the KIO2 for rig control. I 
have a male-male 1/8" audio cable connecting the K2 headphone jack to 
the PC microphone input. With this arrangement, I can receive FT8 
well. It receives so well that I want to try transmitting even though 
I only have 5 or 10 watts from the K2.


I then have connected another male-male 1/8" audio cable from the PC 
headphones connector to the K2 microphone input on the K2 front panel. 
I make this K2 connection using a Y-cable with a Kenwood type mic 
connector on one end and 1/8" female connector and 1/4" female 
connector for a PTT footswitch (not used for FT8). This is actually an 
accessory cable for Heil headsets.


The second I plug in the audio cable to the K2 microphone Y-cable, I 
immediately lose synch and the RS-232 connection fails. I thought 
incorrect audio level might be causing a problem but I've tried many 
different audio input levels with no luck. I don't understand why 
making the audio input connection would affect the rig control 
connection.


I should note my PC has a combo audio jack so I must use a Y-adapter 
to access both the input and the output audio. This adapter works fine 
on FT8 with a different transceiver.




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Re: [Elecraft] D-104 Mic Element Replacement

[Don Wilhelm]

I have used electric elements in the D104 and they worked quite well.
If you want a dynamic element, I suggest the HC4 or HC5 from Heil 
Sound.  I don't know if Heil is still selling those mic elements 
separately, but they do work well in the D104 (and other mics). Just add 
enough foam padding to keep the element in place and you are done.
I have a D104 frame with an HC5 element and it works quite well. I also 
have a vintage D104 with the original element with an FET in the base 
that also works well - the FET is powered by the bias voltage from my K3 
or K2.  I know that does not help if the original D104 mic element has 
gone bad.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/22/2022 8:19 PM, Dr. William J. Schmidt wrote:

No replacement available...

Well... that's not entirely True.  If you search a little, you can find
places all over the internet where you can buy "old stock" or "removed" D104
elements.  Just depends which one/ kind you want.   IN FACT just a few years
ago I bought a hand full of "authentic Astatic, old stock" the later crystal
replacements... brand-new... from one of the big electronic houses like
Mouser or Digikey (can't remember which one actually).  I think they were in
the $28 each...

Just search.  Here are a couple that I found in 30 seconds:

https://www.theharpmicshop.com/crystal---ceramic-mic-elements.html

http://www.kenselectronics.com/lists/micpart.htm#Cartridges







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Re: [Elecraft] K2 scratchy noise on RX CW signals

[Don Wilhelm]

Andrew,

Bypass is not "OFF", so yes it could still be in-circuit.
The only way to really find out is to re-install it and set everything 
to default.

A good exercise for a rainy/snowy afternoon.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/19/2022 9:04 PM, Andrew Moore wrote:
Hi Don - thanks for the suggestion. Any idea if the scratchy audio 
would persist if the KDSP2 was put into bypass mode? I tried that and 
scratchy audio was still there.


Thanks,
-Andrew


On Sat, Feb 19, 2022 at 8:49 PM Don Wilhelm  wrote:

Andrew,

That sounds like you had the NB and/or NR set on in the KDSP2 with
aggressive settings.
If the settings were aggressive, it would give you 'scratchy' audio -
but it does eliminate other unwanted signal sounds.  You might
want to
put the KDSP2 in again and try several settings - see the KDSP2
manual.
Start with all settings at default and go from there.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/17/2022 3:55 PM, Andrew Moore wrote:
> I replaced the KDSP2 with a newly built KAF2 today and am happy
to report
> the noise is gone. Not sure if the board swap had anything to do
with it,
> but everything sounds great now and hope that continues.
>
> Thanks,
> -Andrew / NV1B
>



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 scratchy noise on RX CW signals

[Don Wilhelm]

Andrew,

That sounds like you had the NB and/or NR set on in the KDSP2 with 
aggressive settings.
If the settings were aggressive, it would give you 'scratchy' audio - 
but it does eliminate other unwanted signal sounds.  You might want to 
put the KDSP2 in again and try several settings - see the KDSP2 manual.  
Start with all settings at default and go from there.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/17/2022 3:55 PM, Andrew Moore wrote:

I replaced the KDSP2 with a newly built KAF2 today and am happy to report
the noise is gone. Not sure if the board swap had anything to do with it,
but everything sounds great now and hope that continues.

Thanks,
-Andrew / NV1B



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Re: [Elecraft] Seeking input on 3rd-party microphones used with our transceivers

[Don Wilhelm]

Wayne,

If you are seeking connections for various microphones, I can suggest 
you consult the extensive list of microphone schematics and pinouts 
compiled by G4WPW (SK).  his information is preserved at 
https://www.qsl.net/g4wpw/date.html.
It does not have any 'mic quality' information, but if you are compiling 
a list of adapters, it is a great resource.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/28/2022 1:53 PM, Wayne Burdick wrote:

If you're using a non-Elecraft mic with any of our radios (K2, K3, K4, KX2, 
KX3), please send me a very brief reply with the manufacturer, model number, 
and a note about whether any modifications were required. We're putting 
together a database of these for customer reference.

Thanks!

Wayne
N6KR



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Menu and Tune Buttons

[Don Wilhelm]

Aaron,

I suspect that the firmware is not recognizing that the KAT2 is not present.
Make certain that all wires to the KAT2 board are present and well soldered.
It also could be that the KAT2 firmware has failed.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/12/2022 8:24 PM, Aaron K5ATG wrote:

This evening I tried to get into the menu on my K2 and pushing or
holding the MENU/EDIT button does nothing at all. When I press the ANT
1/2 Button it switches from Antenna 1 to Antenna 2. However, when I
hold the button to tune with the internal ATU the display LCD just
shows Atu and the bar graph goes completely blank. This is the first
time that it has done this and it has been working just fine until
now. I'm not sure how to remedy this.



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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 RX and TX Problem

[Don Wilhelm]

Matt,

You likely have a problem with U7.  At least, that is the thing that you 
need to resolve first.


Sorry about U6, it usually makes a loud pop when the base and collector 
are shorted.  You will have to replace it before you get any power out.


73,
Don W3FPR


On 12/25/2021 2:51 AM, Matt Stumbo via Elecraft wrote:

I had the pleasure of recently assembling a KX1 and KXAT1 kit. I had the KX1 
working on both 20m and 40m, which last worked on Sunday. Unfortunately I now 
have the misfortune of debugging an issue with it.

Today I found the RX and TX no longer work. The KX1 powers on, the menus behave 
as I expect, the AF gain changes the audio and Filter knob changes the audio, 
tuning results in the ATU relays clicking but without any power out the tuner 
doesn’t find a solution and displays 0 W and 9.9 SWR. The RF Gain knob doesn’t 
have any noticeable affect.

I’ve done the following:
* Inspected the KX1 for poor solder joints and shorts, found none
* Verified R4 is fully clockwise
* Verified Q6 collector is isolated from ground
* Removed the KXAT1 and jumped J7 pin 1 to pin 3
* Verified TX is 0 W with an external wattmeter
* Completed the voltage tables

The voltage tables indicated the following issues:
* U1 pin 14, expected 0V measured 5V
* Most U2 pins do not measure expected. I attribute this to U7 2.7V power 
output measuring 1V.
* U7 pin 4, expected 1.17V measured 0V
* U7 pin 5, expected 2.69V measured 1.0V
* Q5 Emitter on Tune expected 2.24V measured 1.48V
* All other measurements were in family with the expected values

The issue that sticks out to me the most is the U7 pin 5 output is too low. 
This results in the DDS U2 not receiving the power it needs to operate, hence 
most of the U2 voltage measurements do not match predicts. Is there any reason 
this 2.7V output could be low besides U7 failure? Are there other areas I 
should probe not included in the voltage table? The U7 input voltage is good, 
5V. Do I need to replace U7?

To make matters worse, while I was measuring the Q6 collector voltage, I 
briefly shorted the base to the collector with the DMM probe. I have not 
noticed any new issues with the KX1. The KX1 still turns on, the buttons work, 
etc. Are there parts I should check to make sure I didn’t break or stress 
anything?




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Re: [Elecraft] KX3, KXPA100 setup with Win4K3 Suite question

[Don Wilhelm]

John,

Only one KXUSB is needed.  The other is just a TRS to TRS cable.
The KXUSB cable must connect first between the KXPA100 and the PC.  The 
second cable between the KXPA100 and the KX3.

If connected that way, everything should work.
See if both the KXPA100 Utility and the KX3 Utility will connect properly.
I don't know what Win4K3 suite does in its routing.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/27/2021 10:48 AM, John Evans wrote:

Greetings,

  Has anyone using Win4K3 Suite with a KX3 and KXPA100 been able to 
get the KXPA100 to show up in the Controller menu ?  Is another KXUSB 
cable required?  How is your system all connected?  Is this even 
necessary or even possible ?  I have my KXPA100 and KX3 connected as 
diagrammed in the manual(s) and I see no way to create another KXUSB 
connection at all.  If you have this config working, I'd appreciate 
some direction.




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Re: [Elecraft] Stripping & Tinning Enameled Wire - Fast, Easy, Reliably

[Don Wilhelm]

Doug,

I use 800 deg F and a wide tip to get the job done.
Of course my Hakko 808 is a lot easier.  Clean the inside of the Hakkko 
tip after a few toroids.


73,
Don W3FPR


On 12/24/2021 11:25 AM, Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft wrote:

How hot does the solder need to be to burn off magnet wire insulation? I have 
my soldering station set to 710 degrees, and that does not seem to be enough 
when I try the “blob on end of iron” method.

Doug, W0UHU.


On 24Dec, 2021, at 8:47 AM, jerry  wrote:

On 2021-12-23 20:49, SteveL wrote:

Jerry,
Years ago when I built my K2, somewhere I learned a Hakko 808
desolating tool was also an excellent enameled wire stripper and
tinning device.   The 808 has been replaced by the FR-301 but I would
expect similar results from this newer tool.  Either are stand-alone
desoldering guns with heated hollow tip and built in vacuum.

*** And there are Chinese copies available.  I got one, it works just
fine.  I never thought of using it to strip magnet wire!  Gotta go try that.

The spinning stripper tool works great for wire thicker than 24AWG or so.  But 
for
thin "receiver" wires it just breaks them off.

 - Jerry KF6VB


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 TX audio

[Don Wilhelm]

If you have the K2/100, remove the KI6WX mod - without the KPA100, it 
makes no difference.

Make certain the SSB FL1 filter is set to OP1.
Check the position of the OP1 filter passband with Spectrogram  . The 
low frequency 'knee' of the passband should be close to 300 Hz.


If you are wondering what I mean about the 'knee' of the passband, look 
at the top of the passband shape and then look to the left (low 
frequency end).  Find the place where the passband response is about 3 
dB less than the flat of the passband - that point is the 'knee' that 
you need to place close to 300 Hz.


Be aware that many VHFers want to hear very wideband audio but the K2 
cannot produce that. You should have good communications quality audio - 
test on HF.




73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/21/2021 5:24 PM, Geert Jan de Groot wrote:

On 21/12/2021 21:30, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:

The SSBCAPKT was released November 2004.??? KSB2 kits built before that
had a 2.1 khz filter.
Look at? your KSB2 board.? If CB and CN positions are populated, you
have the narrow 2.1 khz filter width.


On my Rev-A K2, I've changed crystals, changed the filter capacitors 
for 2.6kHz, and made the drive modifications from KI6WX (I'm driving 
transverters on 10m).


People complain that the audio doesn't sound right, and the 
Spectrogram grapth is far from flat. I'm OK with RX audio but people 
complain about my TX audio.
Is there any way to make the passband flatter, or to make the audio 
"fuller"?


I am aware that TX and RX can use different filters and adjusted for 
that. I just worry about the TX reports I am getting.


Geert Jan

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Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 audio

[Don Wilhelm]

Edward and Terry,

The SSBCAPKT was released November 2004.    KSB2 kits built before that 
had a 2.1 khz filter.
Look at  your KSB2 board.  If CB and CN positions are populated, you 
have the narrow 2.1 khz filter width.


Download the instructions for the SSBCAPKT 
(https://ftp.elecraft.com/K2/Manuals%20Downloads/SSBCAPKT.pdf) and pay 
close attention to the 2nd page to see if  your BFO range will support 
the 2.6 khz width.  If not you will have to use the 2.4 kHz width.
You will want to use Spectrogram for alignment - but the link in that 
document will no longer work.  You can find a good download on my 
website www.w3fpr.com - scroll the homepage to near the bottom to find 
the links to the files resident on my website.

Position the 'knee' of the low frequency slope of the passband.
See http://www.mmccs.com/mmarc/n0ss/k2_filters_using_gram_v5r17.pdf if 
you are not familiar with setup and use of Spectrogram.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/21/2021 9:31 AM, Dave Van Wallaghen wrote:
I am sure Don may be able to answer when the KSB2 came out with a 
wider crystal filter response, but the early on versions of the KSB2 
came standard with a 2.1kHz filter. Today it is 2.4kHz. If you look at 
your KSB2 module and take a look at the lettered capacitors around the 
crystals and you have caps installed in the B and N positions, then it 
has a 2.1kHz filter (I think all of those caps were mostly blue in 
color as well).


Elecraft sells a capacitor kit to convert the KSB2 to a 2.4kHz or 
2.6kHz filter by changing those lettered caps with different values to 
increase the width. It is called the SSBCAPKT and found on the site 
here: 
https://elecraft.com/products/ssbcapkt_ksb2-wider-bandwidth-capacitor-kit. 
As I mentioned, 2.4kHz has been the standard width sold with the KSB2 
for a number of years now.


Another thing to keep in mind is that there was also a crystal type 
change applied as well to provide a flatter response and improve audio 
quality. Again, looking at your KSB2 module, if the crystals have a 
"-S' suffix on them, then you already have the newer crystals. If not, 
you can upgrade them (and you may want to upgrade your CW crystals at 
the same time if they do not have the "-S" suffix). There is a crystal 
kit called K2KSB2XTLS that contains 14 crystals to replace both the 
KSB2 and K2 CW crystals.


It is preferred to replace the caps and crystals at the same time as 
it is easier to replace those tiny caps while the old crystals are 
removed from the KSB2 board. Replace the caps first for your desired 
width and then the crystals. It does make quite a bit of difference in 
audio response.


73,
Dave, W8FGU


On 12/21/2021 9:11:33 AM, "Edward Tanton"  wrote:

I too would be interested in hearing the answer for this. I am NOT a 
big SSB person, but would always prefer fidelity on the 1% of such 
QSOs. Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
 Original message From: Terry Bassett 
 Date: 12/21/21  9:01 AM (GMT-05:00) To: 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] K2/100 audio I assembled 
my k2/100 quite some time ago. I finally used it on ssb. I wastold my 
audio was too tight. I think the early ones were setup for 
contestaudio. Mine was about serial number 3400 or so.My question is 
this: what can I do to change it to more of a ragchew styleof 
audio?TIAW9TRB 
Terry__Elecraft 
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Re: [Elecraft] K2

[Don Wilhelm]

Snowy,

Make sure the switch on the Control Board is in the INT position.
If using a battery, it may have a low voltage - it must be higher than 
10.5 volts.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/20/2021 11:19 AM, snowy howell via Elecraft wrote:

Hi All
Update on the K2 and its problems or now lack of them.
Finished setting up the filters and other than getting ‘low Batt’ indication 
now and again all appears to be well.
Fitted the KAF2 and set up the clock, that taxed my grey cell but managed it in 
the end.
Just need to give it an on air test and that’s it, sorted.
Just want to thank Dave and Don for their help in getting me to this point.
  Thanks very much

73

Snowy G0HZE


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 BFO problem

[Don Wilhelm]

Snowy,

I am glad to hear that it is now working for you.  It sounds like you 
had a soldering problem somewhere.
A surplus of solder usually means that the lead and solder pad were not 
heated sufficiently.
If you have other areas where you find excess solder, just reheat and if 
necessary, wick away the excess - you may have a fully functional K2 
sooner than you think.


It sounds as though some (or perhaps all) of the K2 A to B mods were 
installed in an attempt to get it working.
Which of the group of mods is installed is important to keeping track of 
the level of the K2.
You may want to download the K2ATOB instructions and all the other mod 
instructions to do a physical check of the installed components.  
Knowing the level of mods installed is important when chasing problems.  
Make a log of the A to B mods installed for future reference.  The  
level of the IF crystals  on the RF board and the KSB2 option is also 
important to having a good filter response - those crystals should be 
marked with a "-S" suffix.K2s above SN 2560 have the new crystals.


If the wiring mod for the sidetone source with firmware 2.04 has not 
been installed, do it.  It is required for the
KIO2 or the KPA100 (see the instructions for those options) .  If you 
have MCU 2.04r firmware it is mandatory  - you will not have sidetone 
without it.  If your firmware is 2.04P or earlier set the menu sidetone 
to U4-8.


73 - Merry Christmas and Happy New Year,
Don W3FPR

On 12/19/2021 5:36 PM, snowy howell via Elecraft wrote:
Good Evening Don Sorry for the late reply, not used to the format of  > the reflector and stumbled onto your suggestions to solve my BFO > 
problem. I am please to say that I have now got it working > correctly. 
Getting nowhere with the test I decided to dismantle the > radio down to 
just the RF board, removed a surplus of solder from the > D36/37 area, 
re-flowed the pins of U10, lifted the leg of the 5.1meg > resistor and 
L33, didn’t know about the rubber bung being conductive > however once 
again removed a surplus of solder from that area, I also > added a small 
cut of insulation tape to form a bed for the resistor > on L33, thinking 
that turns may be shorted, at this point I ought to > explain I 
purchased this as a built but non worker, it is an early > radio as it 
has a Rev A mother-board with a small pot for R60 and an > early control 
board with the 12v switch rather than the berg > connectors, I have 
built 5 or 6 of these for people and never had a > problem certainly not 
as many faults as this one appears to have had, > there is no serial 
number on the radio, but it has had the PLL > thermistor conversion as 
well as the D36 done. Have to thank Dave for > sticking with me on this 
one, without his guidance I would still be > trying to sort the PLL 
problem. > > Have a good Christmas and New Year 2022 > > 73 > > Snowy 
G0HZE > > Sent from Mail for Windows > > 
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ere
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Frequency Calibration

[Don Wilhelm]

Pete,

When using WWV to set the K3 reference, make certain you are listening 
to the carrier.  WWV is an AM signal that is modulated by a 500 or 600 
Hz tone on alternate minutes (440 Hz 2 minutes after the hour).  That 
produces tones that are both above and below the carrier.
So be certain you are hearing the carrier and not one of the modulating 
tones.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/16/2021 4:34 PM, Pete Smith N4ZR wrote:
I've been wondering for some time if my 10-year-old K3's frequency 
calibration was off, because it seemed like most spots of me were well 
off when I clicked on them, usually in one direction.  Not having a 
frequency counter, I went to the alternative method outlined in page 
49 of the manual.  I thought I did it all "by the book", but found 
that when I was done 15-MHz WWV's carrier frequency (determined by 
zero-beating the carrier) was almost 400 Hz low. Since I wasn't 
looking for FMT-level accuracy, I went back to WWV and adjusted the 
REF CAL setting by ear until 15.000 on my RX dial was as close to 
zero-beat with WWV as I could tell. We'll see how it worked out, but I 
wonder if I simply have some fundamental misunderstanding of what's 
involved.  Wouldn't be the first time...




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Re: [Elecraft] K2 BFO problem

[Don Wilhelm]

Snowy,

It sounds as though you have the proper BFO crystals installed at X3 and X4.

Do check the values of C173 and C174 first
Then check L33 to make certain it is well soldered and the leads are 
attached to the 1/8 watt resistor leads.
Check D37 and D38 to be certain they are oriented properly and well 
soldered.


Lastly, lift one side of L33 (and its resistor and remove the rubber pad 
- check the resistance of the pad itself - there were a few (a while 
ago) that were found to be conductive causing problems such as yours.  
Since you did not state the vintage (or serial number of the K2), do 
that check if those items above do not correct the problem.


While you have the rubber pad out, make certain that about 1/2 of the 
stem has been cut away.  That is to allow the 1/8 watt resistor to be 
pushed down into the center of L33 to tighten the leads and hold L33 
securely in place.


If the rubber pad under L33 is found to be conductive, get a new one 
from Elecraft, or -- If you have an unassembled KAT2, you will find 
several of the rubber bumpers in that kit - a conductive one will work 
fine in the KAT2, but not in the BFO circuit.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/16/2021 5:35 PM, ROLAND HOWELL via Elecraft wrote:


having repaired my PLL problem with a great deal of help and advice 
from Dave at tech support, Elecraft i moved onto the next set of tests 
which was the bfo frequencies, on selecting CAL, Counter i get a 
reading of 4.9136, on pressing either the band up or down all i get is 
zero's.

Fitted crystals are 4.91s in X3 and X4 positions
Have checked all the details in the trouble shooting paragraph, i can 
find no fault with any of the components, all values and positions are 
correct.

I have to add that this was purchased as a non-runner.
Any advice appreciated
Snowy,G0HZE
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 and N1MM+

[Don Wilhelm]

Ted,

You should be using the special cable from the PC (or USB to Serial 
adapter).
That cable has no RTS or DTR wires in it, so it will not work for 
sending CW from N1MM.  In other words, DTR and RTS are not implemented 
in the K2.


Do NOT try to "fix" it by plugging the USB to serial adapter directly 
into the K2 - if it does not damage the K2, it will cause "strange 
happenings" in the K2 operation.


Either a 'one transistor' keying interface, or a K1EL Winkeyer will have 
to be used between the USB to serial adapter and the K2 key jack to make 
N1MM send CW in the K2.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/7/2021 4:13 PM, eda...@aya.yale.edu wrote:

I need advice for getting N1MM+ to play well with a K2.  I have tried it
with two different K2 rigs:  a K2 with a KIO2, and a different K2-100 with
the built in IO.  Same problem.  The K2 Port parameter is set to ON and N1MM
tracks the RX frequency, so I know the rig and the computer are
communicating.  But a keyboard command from N1MM to the rig returns the
error message --  "Unable to send this CW because there is no CW Port set in
Config."




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Re: [Elecraft] K1 LCD BaCKLIGHT

[Don Wilhelm]

Ken,

The K1 LCD backlight is no longer possible.  The original used half of 
the K2 backlight strip which is no longer available and the new K2 strip 
is too thick to fit under the K1 LCD.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/3/2021 11:39 PM, Ken Brown wrote:

  Need the best modifications for back lighting of the K1.
This version never had the K1 LCD Backlight Kit.

Ken
Elecraft K1 nr. 260



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Re: [Elecraft] No bars at all on KX3 digital mode transmit

[Don Wilhelm]

Julia,

That is designed in to prevent the audio front end from being damaged by 
a high audio level.
For those who have read my document on setting the audio levels, I was 
careful to state that one should start with each audio level (computer 
and KX3) to mid-range for a starting point and adjust from there a bit 
at a time.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/23/2021 8:34 PM, Julia Tuttle wrote:

Does anyone know *why* it does that? It's confusing when no bars means
either "way too high" or "way too low".

On Tue, Nov 23, 2021, 20:22 AL7CR  wrote:


A classic problem.  You have TOO MUCH input gain.  Counterintuitively the
KX 3 ALC will display nothing if over driven.  Turn the input way down and
then increase in small steps.  You will find the right setting to show ALC
that way.
On Tue, Nov 23, 2021, at 2:57 PM, Frank O'Donnell wrote:

After not having used my KX3 in a while, today I set it up with a laptop
on the front porch to send FT8 in WSJT-X with a new AX1 antenna.

I went through the procedure in Don W3FPR's document "Setting Elecraft
Transceivers for soundcard digital," setting in and out audio levels on
my MacBook Pro for the thumbnail-sized Sabrent USB soundcard; Mic Gain
on the KX3; and the power slider in WSJT-X. CAT control is working fine,
and the KX3 is in DATA A mode. The waterfall of incoming signals appears
normal.

I seem to be getting a good signal out, with -1 dB reported from Alaska,
and -7 to -10 dB from the U.S. east coast with the above settings around
midrange, and with the KX3 set for 15w out. However, I don't see any
bars at all on the ALC meter at any time, even when the USB soundcard
out, KX3 Mic Gain and WSJT-X power slider are set as high as their

maximums.

Am I forgetting a setting? Anything I can look at to troubleshoot the
ALC meter function?

Thanks much,

Frank K6FOD
Southern California


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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K1 VFO reading

[Don Wilhelm]

Mike,

The K1 must tune a bit below the low end of each band.  That is to 
compensate for the crystals on the band board not being precision 
crystals - so your K1 is behaving as normal.


You CAN tweak it by a small amount on ONE band (the 2nd band will change 
too).


In your case, I would choose 40 meters since it is only low by 20 kHz 
while 20 meters is low by 26 kHz.
You can do this in receive by looking at the frequency display because 
you have already confirmed it is showing the correct frequency.


Tune the VFO to the low end of 40 meters and then spread (or compress) 
the turns of L1 a little at a time until the display shows about 
6995kHz, then check 20 meters to make sure it is a bit below the band 
edge too.
That is the best compromise that you can do without losing a bit of the 
bottom edge of the band.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/26/2021 3:17 PM, Mike Smith VE9AA wrote:

Just bought a K1..an oldie but a goodie, I guess.

NB board and 2 bands board (20/40) No tuner.

  


So, just playing around, getting familiarized with this new-to-me little rig
before transmitting or hooking it up to a real antenna and I notice:

  


on 20m:  it tunes from 13.974MHz - 14.063MHz

  


and on it tunes from 40m from 6.980MHz-7.068MHz

  


When I transmit on a nearby rig or compare frequencies to DX cluster spots,
just using a chunk of wire for an antenna, and listen for the various
stations it looks like the VFO is reading pretty much bang on.

  


So, is this a matter of incorrect components installed or a poor alignment
or the (re)seller messing with the "CAL" in the menu or ??

  


I don't really want to mess with it too much, but I am missing 20-25kHz of
usable bandwidth on each band. (seems like I have about 88kHz of tuning
range, but 20-26kHz of it is below the bands---oof !)

  





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Re: [Elecraft] XV50 Rev B - Questions

[Don Wilhelm]

Brian,

In later XV transverters, JP9 controls when the crystal oven is powered.
Since you do not have JP9, even if you have a crystal oven, it will 
still work fine.
The oven will be powered when the XV50 is powered.  Just allow some time 
for it to warm up (about 20 minutes).
Actually, the 22MHz crystal does not drift much and usually does not 
require the oven.


73 and Happy Thanksgiving,
Don W3FPR

On 11/24/2021 12:20 PM, Brian Moore via Elecraft wrote:
Hello - I recently purchased an XV50 to use with my K2. While setting 
it up for a K2 with no K60XV per the manual, I noticed that there is 
no JP9, where I am supposed to short pins 1-2. On closer inspection, 
my XV50 has a rev B board and it appears these pins don't exist. The 
assembly manual I found online is for a Rev E board and owners manual 
is for Rev F1.


I'm assuming all the other jumper settings from the Rev E manual are 
correct for my Rev B XV50, but I thought I'd ask here for 
clarification before I damage my XV50, since it's almost irreplaceable 
now days. Also a Christmas wish would be to purchase a K60XV if anyone 
has one laying around that they'd be willing to sell.


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Re: [Elecraft] KIO2 problem -- maybe

[Don Wilhelm]

Dave,

Being a little 'tongue in cheek' the answer is -- That depends on what 
you mean by "good"!
Seriously, the fact that you can turn it on and off in the menu only 
means that there is a response from the KIO2 when it is communicating 
with the MCU over the AUXBUS line.
I would suspect the MAX1406 IC, but since there was a lightning strike, 
it could be something different - anything!


First do all the voltage measurements on the KIO2 board.
Does anything get hot?  The voltage regulator in particular.
Are you using the "special cable" between the KIO2 and the KUSB cable?  
You MUST use that!  It does not have to be long, but must be present.

Check that all the inductors show continuity.

If none of that is revealing, I can give you a series of tests that you 
can do to test the KIO2 alone (without removing it).
If we get to that point, take it off-list (Delete "[Elecraft]" from the 
subject line) and I can give you the steps via private email.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/19/2021 4:40 PM, Dave Sublette wrote:

I had a lightning strike and am getting things back together.  I am
attempting to connect via a KUSB cable with a series adapter to make it a
proper cable for the K2.

The PORT menus says the port is ON and I can turn it ON and OFF as outlined
in the manual.

Prior to the strike, this same radio and cable and software was operating
normally.  Now the software cannot connect to the radio, even though the
setup shows an available USB/serial port available.

I'm wondering if the KUSB cable is bad(probably due to the strike)?

First item I need to know, is the KIO2 OK if I can turn it on and off from
the EDIT menu?  If the KIO2 is good, then it has to be the KUSB cable.

What say ye?

Thanks,

Dave, K4TO
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] K2/100 - Serial Port Quit Working

[Don Wilhelm]

Bill,

That was why Elecraft released MCU 2.04r which is exactly the same as 
2.04P, but the sidetone source is locked at U8-4.
That can happen if someone EDITs the ST-L menu and then taps the DISPLAY 
button without exiting the menu first.
Many hours of support time had been spent on the "I lost the sidetone" 
problem - so 2.04r was the solution to that problem.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/19/2021 1:37 PM, Bill Coleman wrote:

Alright, I have figured this out.

I’m not sure why I was seeing Vss of -5 volts. I re-checked the negative supply 
on the KPA100, flowed the solder on D7 and D8. After that, I was seeing almost 
-24 volts at the Vss pin, without U4 in place.

With U4 connected and everything hooked up, Vss was more like -15 volts. I’m 
not sure what was causing it to read -5 volts.

However, even with all that, it still wasn’t working!

I could see the RS-232 data get all the way to the MCU - Control Board U6, pin 
26 using the scope, but the K2 would not react to any commands.

Also, when using the PORT TEST action on the menu, I saw no data on U6 pin 25.

But, then I figured it out.

I remembered that the K2 has a setting which changes the origin of the 
sidetone. Modern K2’s use U8-4 as a default, although early K2s used U6-25 as 
the default value, as that was the way the sidetone was originally wired.  I 
wondered if something had happened and this setting had somehow gotten switched.

Sure enough, I found it was set to U6-25. Changing this to the proper value of 
U8-4, and the serial port operation was completely restored.

I’m not sure how this value got changed. It could have happened if the DISPLAY 
button had been pressed when the ST L menu was in edit mode. Since ST L is the 
default, if the user accidentally held the MENU button too long, and then 
immediately tapped DISPLAY, that would have done it.

Sorry for all the trouble. It really is amazing that something so simple could 
cause so much bother.


On Nov 19, 2021, at 12:01 PM, Bill Coleman  wrote:

Don,

Managed to do a little diagnosis.

I pulled the MAX1406 chip KPA100 U4.

I see proper continuity between pin 12 of U4 and pin 25 of the MCU, and pin 11 
of U4 and pin 26 of the MCU.

Going back, I checked out the Vdd, Vss an Vcc voltages on U4.

Vdd is 14 volts
Vcc is 5 volts
Vss is -5 volts

It looks like, from the specification of the MAX1406 chip, it needs more like 
-10 volts to work correctly.

I measured these on the scope before, so I only got vague responses.

I guess I’ll be investigating the Vss supply.


On Nov 19, 2021, at 11:25 AM, Bill Coleman  wrote:

Serial Number 2548.

The current MCU I have is version 2.04P. (latest)

The unit I swapped in earlier was, I think 2.03. I don’t have it with me, and 
I’m not sure.


On Nov 18, 2021, at 5:14 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:

Bill,

What is the level of the MCU (before you changed it), and what level did you 
try putting in?
And what is the serial number of your K2?  Those may help to solve the problem.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/18/2021 3:55 PM, Bill Coleman wrote:

U6 is kinda expensive to just replace….

I do have an older revision of the firmware for U6. I did try before 
substituting the KPA100 U4, and it didn’t address the issue.

I guess this will require more sleuthing.


On Nov 16, 2021, at 12:35 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:

Bill,

Plug the ribbon cable in and do an end to end continuity test - KPA100 U4 pin 
12 to Control Board U6 pin 25,
And KPA100 U4 pin 11 to CB U6 pin 26.  That will check the board wiring and the 
ribbon cable.

If all that is OK, try replacing CB U6.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/15/2021 7:28 PM, Bill Coleman wrote:

Well, I cut out the existing U4 MAX1406 chip on the KPA100 and soldered in a 
16-pin socket. Putting in a new MAX1406 chip in the newly installed socket and 
… same problem as before. The radio does not respond to commands, pressing the 
PORT TEST does not result in any data output.

I haven’t had a chance to put a scope on the pins yet to see what is happening.

I do find it odd that the pulse trains were reaching the CPU earlier, but it 
was not acting on the commands. (eg RT1; would not turn on the RIT, RT0; would 
not turn off the RIT)

Any suggestions or ideas on how to debug this further?



On Nov 5, 2021, at 3:10 PM, Bill Coleman  wrote:

Yes, Vss Vdd and Vcc all look like appropriate values.


On Nov 4, 2021, at 3:47 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:

Bill,

Make certain you have +12 volts on U4 pin 1 and +5 volts on U4 pin 16 and about 
-25 volts (-8 to -27 volts) on U4 pin 8.
If those are correct, replace U4 and it should work)

73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/4/2021 3:29 PM, Bill Coleman wrote:

About 10 days ago, I was having trouble with the K2/100, as it was no longer 
talking to WSJT-X correctly. I could get the audio running, but it would never 
contact the radio.

Trying to set up for CQ WW Phone, I had the same trouble with N1MM.

Tried to use the PORT TEST feature by going to the SEC menu, selecting PORT, 
going into EDIT, and pressing the DISP

Re: [Elecraft] [K2] K2/100 - Serial Port Quit Working

[Don Wilhelm]

Bill,

In the KPA100, the normal Vss is about -25 volts, so suspect that 
something may be loading that negative supply.
Pull U4 out and measure that voltage again.  If it is still not negative 
enough, you may have  a problem in the T/R switch.  Check for 90 to 150 
volts on the highest voltage end of R11.

If that voltage is OK, look carefully at C34, C35, D7 and D8.

Put MCU 2.04P back in - it won't help with this problem, but there are 
other things it will help with.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/19/2021 12:01 PM, Bill Coleman wrote:

Don,

Managed to do a little diagnosis.

I pulled the MAX1406 chip KPA100 U4.

I see proper continuity between pin 12 of U4 and pin 25 of the MCU, and pin 11 
of U4 and pin 26 of the MCU.

Going back, I checked out the Vdd, Vss an Vcc voltages on U4.

Vdd is 14 volts
Vcc is 5 volts
Vss is -5 volts

It looks like, from the specification of the MAX1406 chip, it needs more like 
-10 volts to work correctly.

I measured these on the scope before, so I only got vague responses.

I guess I’ll be investigating the Vss supply.


On Nov 19, 2021, at 11:25 AM, Bill Coleman  wrote:

Serial Number 2548.

The current MCU I have is version 2.04P. (latest)

The unit I swapped in earlier was, I think 2.03. I don’t have it with me, and 
I’m not sure.




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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] K2/100 - Serial Port Quit Working

[Don Wilhelm]

Bill,

What is the level of the MCU (before you changed it), and what level did 
you try putting in?
And what is the serial number of your K2?  Those may help to solve the 
problem.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/18/2021 3:55 PM, Bill Coleman wrote:

U6 is kinda expensive to just replace….

I do have an older revision of the firmware for U6. I did try before 
substituting the KPA100 U4, and it didn’t address the issue.

I guess this will require more sleuthing.


On Nov 16, 2021, at 12:35 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:

Bill,

Plug the ribbon cable in and do an end to end continuity test - KPA100 U4 pin 
12 to Control Board U6 pin 25,
And KPA100 U4 pin 11 to CB U6 pin 26.  That will check the board wiring and the 
ribbon cable.

If all that is OK, try replacing CB U6.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/15/2021 7:28 PM, Bill Coleman wrote:

Well, I cut out the existing U4 MAX1406 chip on the KPA100 and soldered in a 
16-pin socket. Putting in a new MAX1406 chip in the newly installed socket and 
… same problem as before. The radio does not respond to commands, pressing the 
PORT TEST does not result in any data output.

I haven’t had a chance to put a scope on the pins yet to see what is happening.

I do find it odd that the pulse trains were reaching the CPU earlier, but it 
was not acting on the commands. (eg RT1; would not turn on the RIT, RT0; would 
not turn off the RIT)

Any suggestions or ideas on how to debug this further?



On Nov 5, 2021, at 3:10 PM, Bill Coleman  wrote:

Yes, Vss Vdd and Vcc all look like appropriate values.


On Nov 4, 2021, at 3:47 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:

Bill,

Make certain you have +12 volts on U4 pin 1 and +5 volts on U4 pin 16 and about 
-25 volts (-8 to -27 volts) on U4 pin 8.
If those are correct, replace U4 and it should work)

73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/4/2021 3:29 PM, Bill Coleman wrote:

About 10 days ago, I was having trouble with the K2/100, as it was no longer 
talking to WSJT-X correctly. I could get the audio running, but it would never 
contact the radio.

Trying to set up for CQ WW Phone, I had the same trouble with N1MM.

Tried to use the PORT TEST feature by going to the SEC menu, selecting PORT, 
going into EDIT, and pressing the DISPLAY button. It would say TEST, but I’d 
see no characters transmitted.

Since I use USB serial adapters, I tried two of them, to no avail. Can’t get a 
peep out of the K2/100.

Opening up the rig and digging out the scope, if I send characters on the 
serial port, I see pulse trains on KPA100 U4 - the MAX1406 chip - pin 11 
(R3OUT). So, it would appear that characters are reaching the main CPU.

If I put the scope probe on pin 12 (T2IN), it remains locked on ground, never 
moving, even when I do the PORT TEST.

If I remove the P1 connector from the control board, and put the scope probe on 
pin 1 of that connector, I DO see pulse trains from the PORT TEST. This 
indicates to me that the CPU is OK, but something is wrong at the MAX1406 chip 
in the KPA100.

In addition to not getting a response from the K2, it doesn’t appear to obey 
commands. If I send RT1; or XT1; it doesn’t turn RIT or XIT on.

I tried using a different main CPU chip (I have one with older firmware), but 
that doesn’t appear to make a difference. I’m wondering if my problem is a 
blown MAX1406 chip.

Any recommendations or advice? It’s a big pain to remove the KPA100 board, so I 
want to make sure what I’m replacing before I go after it.




Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail: aa...@arrl.net
Web: http://boringhamradiopart.blogspot.com
Quote: "Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!"
 -- Wilbur Wright, 1901


Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail: aa...@arrl.net
Web: http://boringhamradiopart.blogspot.com
Quote: "Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!"
   -- Wilbur Wright, 1901


Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail: aa...@arrl.net
Web: http://boringhamradiopart.blogspot.com
Quote: "Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!"
-- Wilbur Wright, 1901



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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] K2/100 - Serial Port Quit Working

[Don Wilhelm]

Matt,

I Forgot to mention that to Bill.  The special cable does not have to be 
very long, but it must be present.  Only pins 2, 3 and 5 should connect 
to the RS232 connector on the USB to serial adapter.  Failure to follow 
this will cause several "strange happenings" with the K2.  The subject 
line said it "quit working", so I assumed it had worked just before it 
quit.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/18/2021 4:14 PM, Matt Maguire wrote:

Don’t forget, you can’t plug in a USB adapter directly into a K2, as the
wiring is not standard RS232C. You need to make up a special adapter as
described in the manual. Probably you know this already, but just something
else to check.

73, Matt VK2RQ

On Fri, 5 Nov 2021 at 06:31, Bill Coleman  wrote:


About 10 days ago, I was having trouble with the K2/100, as it was no
longer talking to WSJT-X correctly. I could get the audio running, but it
would never contact the radio.
the man eis
Trying to set up for CQ WW Phone, I had the same trouble with N1MM.

Tried to use the PORT TEST feature by going to the SEC menu, selecting
PORT, going into EDIT, and pressing the DISPLAY button. It would say TEST,
but I’d see no characters transmitted.

Since I use USB serial adapters, I tried two of them, to no avail. Can’t
get a peep out of the K2/100.

Opening up the rig and digging out the scope, if I send characters on the
serial port, I see pulse trains on KPA100 U4 - the MAX1406 chip - pin 11
(R3OUT). So, it would appear that characters are reaching the main CPU.

If I put the scope probe on pin 12 (T2IN), it remains locked on ground,
never moving, even when I do the PORT TEST.

If I remove the P1 connector from the control board, and put the scope
probe on pin 1 of that connector, I DO see pulse trains from the PORT TEST.
This indicates to me that the CPU is OK, but something is wrong at the
MAX1406 chip in the KPA100.

In addition to not getting a response from the K2, it doesn’t appear to
obey commands. If I send RT1; or XT1; it doesn’t turn RIT or XIT on.

I tried using a different main CPU chip (I have one with older firmware),
but that doesn’t appear to make a difference. I’m wondering if my problem
is a blown MAX1406 chip.

Any recommendations or advice? It’s a big pain to remove the KPA100 board,
so I want to make sure what I’m replacing before I go after it.


Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail: aa...@arrl.net
Web: http://boringhamradiopart.blogspot.com
Quote: "Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!"
-- Wilbur Wright, 1901

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 driving KPA1500

[Don Wilhelm]

Ted,

The 9 pin connector on the KIO2 is not compatible with the signals 
required by either amplifier.  You will be better off using only the PA 
Amp Keying from the K2.
That Amp Keying output is not standard on the K2, but I believe Dave Van 
Wallaghen W8FGU is making up kits.  Send an email to Dave at W8FGU.com 
to ask.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/16/2021 11:00 AM, eda...@aya.yale.edu wrote:

Has anyone been using a K2 to drive a KPA1500?  I've read the KPA1500 manual
and the just-released notes on using CI-V protocol transceivers, all of
which seems straightforward enough, on paper.  I would nonetheless
appreciate hearing from someone who has done it - about unexpected issues,
results, frustrations if any, etc.  My latest K2, for example, does not yet
have the KIO installed. Should I do that before even trying anything else?




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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] K2/100 - Serial Port Quit Working

[Don Wilhelm]

Bill,

Plug the ribbon cable in and do an end to end continuity test - KPA100 
U4 pin 12 to Control Board U6 pin 25,
And KPA100 U4 pin 11 to CB U6 pin 26.  That will check the board wiring 
and the ribbon cable.


If all that is OK, try replacing CB U6.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/15/2021 7:28 PM, Bill Coleman wrote:

Well, I cut out the existing U4 MAX1406 chip on the KPA100 and soldered in a 
16-pin socket. Putting in a new MAX1406 chip in the newly installed socket and 
… same problem as before. The radio does not respond to commands, pressing the 
PORT TEST does not result in any data output.

I haven’t had a chance to put a scope on the pins yet to see what is happening.

I do find it odd that the pulse trains were reaching the CPU earlier, but it 
was not acting on the commands. (eg RT1; would not turn on the RIT, RT0; would 
not turn off the RIT)

Any suggestions or ideas on how to debug this further?



On Nov 5, 2021, at 3:10 PM, Bill Coleman  wrote:

Yes, Vss Vdd and Vcc all look like appropriate values.


On Nov 4, 2021, at 3:47 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:

Bill,

Make certain you have +12 volts on U4 pin 1 and +5 volts on U4 pin 16 and about 
-25 volts (-8 to -27 volts) on U4 pin 8.
If those are correct, replace U4 and it should work)

73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/4/2021 3:29 PM, Bill Coleman wrote:

About 10 days ago, I was having trouble with the K2/100, as it was no longer 
talking to WSJT-X correctly. I could get the audio running, but it would never 
contact the radio.

Trying to set up for CQ WW Phone, I had the same trouble with N1MM.

Tried to use the PORT TEST feature by going to the SEC menu, selecting PORT, 
going into EDIT, and pressing the DISPLAY button. It would say TEST, but I’d 
see no characters transmitted.

Since I use USB serial adapters, I tried two of them, to no avail. Can’t get a 
peep out of the K2/100.

Opening up the rig and digging out the scope, if I send characters on the 
serial port, I see pulse trains on KPA100 U4 - the MAX1406 chip - pin 11 
(R3OUT). So, it would appear that characters are reaching the main CPU.

If I put the scope probe on pin 12 (T2IN), it remains locked on ground, never 
moving, even when I do the PORT TEST.

If I remove the P1 connector from the control board, and put the scope probe on 
pin 1 of that connector, I DO see pulse trains from the PORT TEST. This 
indicates to me that the CPU is OK, but something is wrong at the MAX1406 chip 
in the KPA100.

In addition to not getting a response from the K2, it doesn’t appear to obey 
commands. If I send RT1; or XT1; it doesn’t turn RIT or XIT on.

I tried using a different main CPU chip (I have one with older firmware), but 
that doesn’t appear to make a difference. I’m wondering if my problem is a 
blown MAX1406 chip.

Any recommendations or advice? It’s a big pain to remove the KPA100 board, so I 
want to make sure what I’m replacing before I go after it.




Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail: aa...@arrl.net
Web: http://boringhamradiopart.blogspot.com
Quote: "Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!"
  -- Wilbur Wright, 1901


Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail: aa...@arrl.net
Web: http://boringhamradiopart.blogspot.com
Quote: "Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!"
-- Wilbur Wright, 1901



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 - Stumble at the last hurdle.

[Don Wilhelm]

Mark,

Did you measure C44 and C46 through the entire range of rotation? and 
what is the color of the plastic bodies?
The last I knew, they were about 20pF maximum and the bodies were red.  
The others do not have a sufficiently low capacity to tune 12 meters.


Similarly for C21 and C23 which the last I knew were yellow or brown.

If those capacitor pairs are swapped, you would have the problems you 
describe.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/11/2021 5:30 AM, M Bak wrote:

This is my 2nd K2 build this year. This fantastic kit has kept me sane.   I
tested every component on an LCR meter (found RFC10 open) and tried to work
as slowly as possible.

I got to the end of the build to the very last alignment step.--

The adjustment of C44 and C46 for the 12 meter band and I can only get
0.2W. 10 meters is fine with adjusting L12 and L13 but 12 meters (which I
do not use but it should work) is nada.

I had the exact same problem on 20meters but careful tweaking of C21/23 and
L8/9 and it burst into life.

When testing the capacitors I noticed they had quite a wide tolerance
range. Could the band pass range for the 10 and 12 meter bands be too high?

Any ideas would be appreciated. I am quite good at wondering down rabbit
holes.

Rgds. Mark G4RUR





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Re: [Elecraft] K2 new kit question

[Don Wilhelm]

James,

It is not  likely to be a problem, but check any that are on the 
bottom.  If they are too high to clear the bottom cover, just bend  them 
over a bit.  Replace the ones with the cracked bodies.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/8/2021 11:25 AM, JAMES GUNNOE wrote:

Good morning everyone.
I have finished the basic CW version and all my checks and alignments are good.
The question I do have is, the capacitors (101) tan in color, have the legs 
bend in a zigzag pattern. When I tried to straighten them I ended up cracking 
the ceramic insulation on them. So I replaced them and installed all of them 
without straightening the legs. That of course put them a bit tall on the 
board. The manual states to install all components as close to the board as 
possible, to avoid stray RF coupling on the board.
Do you all think the way I installed them is going to be an issue? And how 
would I be able to tell if it is a issue?

Thank you for all the help I have received so far from this group.




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Re: [Elecraft] PLL Range test

[Don Wilhelm]

James,

Listen to Dave, he is 'on target' with his post, and he is now the K2 
'expert'.  But it might be helpful if you post the PLL high and low 
frequencies as well as the range test results.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/5/2021 8:27 AM, JAMES GUNNOE wrote:

To follow up on my question about the PLL range test, how critical is it to be 
at or below 15Khz? Currently I am at 15.40Khz after playing around with the 
winding spread. The errata sheet says to be between 9.98Khz and 15Khz 
difference in the high and low reading.

73
James, KJ4KEM



On 11/04/2021 7:57 PM Comcast  wrote:

  
Hello again,

Still building a K2. I got to the PLL reference oscillator range test and did 
have to remove one turn from the toroid.My range at first was 20.6 Khz.
I got it down to 15.38Khz. I am worried if I remove another turn it will be too 
low. I went ahead with the continued testing and all the numbers (test results) 
are good.
I stopped for the night on the BFO alignment.
My questions is, is the 15.38Khz ok or do I need to remove another turn from 
the toroid?

73

James, KJ4KEM
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] K2/100 - Serial Port Quit Working

[Don Wilhelm]

Bill,

Make certain you have +12 volts on U4 pin 1 and +5 volts on U4 pin 16 
and about -25 volts (-8 to -27 volts) on U4 pin 8.

If those are correct, replace U4 and it should work)

73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/4/2021 3:29 PM, Bill Coleman wrote:

About 10 days ago, I was having trouble with the K2/100, as it was no longer 
talking to WSJT-X correctly. I could get the audio running, but it would never 
contact the radio.

Trying to set up for CQ WW Phone, I had the same trouble with N1MM.

Tried to use the PORT TEST feature by going to the SEC menu, selecting PORT, 
going into EDIT, and pressing the DISPLAY button. It would say TEST, but I’d 
see no characters transmitted.

Since I use USB serial adapters, I tried two of them, to no avail. Can’t get a 
peep out of the K2/100.

Opening up the rig and digging out the scope, if I send characters on the 
serial port, I see pulse trains on KPA100 U4 - the MAX1406 chip - pin 11 
(R3OUT). So, it would appear that characters are reaching the main CPU.

If I put the scope probe on pin 12 (T2IN), it remains locked on ground, never 
moving, even when I do the PORT TEST.

If I remove the P1 connector from the control board, and put the scope probe on 
pin 1 of that connector, I DO see pulse trains from the PORT TEST. This 
indicates to me that the CPU is OK, but something is wrong at the MAX1406 chip 
in the KPA100.

In addition to not getting a response from the K2, it doesn’t appear to obey 
commands. If I send RT1; or XT1; it doesn’t turn RIT or XIT on.

I tried using a different main CPU chip (I have one with older firmware), but 
that doesn’t appear to make a difference. I’m wondering if my problem is a 
blown MAX1406 chip.

Any recommendations or advice? It’s a big pain to remove the KPA100 board, so I 
want to make sure what I’m replacing before I go after it.





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Re: [Elecraft] Need Mic adapter: Icom SM-50 to K3 mic input jack

[Don Wilhelm]

Bob,

The Elecraft mic pinout is ALMOST the same as Kenwood's
The Elecraft pin 6 carries +5 volts while for Kenwood, the +5 volts is 
on pin 5.

Pin 5 for Elecraft is the Function button.

If your microphone does not require +5 volts and does not have buttons 
other than PTT, then you only have to be concerned about pin 1 (AF), pin 
2 (PTT) and pins 7 and 8 (one for PTT return and the other for AF return 
- both are connected together inside the K3).


Icom and Yaesu are not as straightforward, see the G4WPW info at 
https://www.qsl.net/g4wpw/date.html for details on the pinout for those 
mics.


If you can do a bit of soldering, you can make and adapter for the price 
of a male and female Foster connector and a bit of wire.  If you rewire 
the Foster connector on the mic, you don't need any adapter or 
connectors at all, just a bit of solder, to unsolder the wires from the 
existing connector and solder them in the correct pins for the K3.


OTOH, if you wish to switch back and forth between the Icom/Yaesu pinout 
and the Elecraft, the adapter or the MFJ box would be the best choice.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/2/2021 4:34 PM, Gary Peterson wrote:

It appears that MFJ makes a box, designed to convert one brand’s mic connector 
to others.  It appears to be programmable, using jumpers.

I believe the Foster connectors on the K3 or K3S are wired the same as 
Kenwood’s.

The model number is MFJ 1263.  I have not used or seen one, so cannot comment 
on its utility.

Gary
K0CX


I have no microphone for my K3. I am usually on CW or the digital modes.
Now I want to get on the KY Phone Net on 3838.

So I talked DXEngineering and they know of no adapter plug/cable.

So, I have an Icom SM-50 mic  and a Yaesu MD-100 mic.

Anyone know of an adapter connector that would fit either to adapt them to the 
K3?
Or maybe a universal box that lets me plug all the mic's in and have a cable to 
the K3 
Also run an Icom IC-9700 FWIW.
Bob KD7YZ



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Re: [Elecraft] Need Mic adapter: Icom SM-50 to K3 mic input jack

[Don Wilhelm]

Microphone schematics and other info can be found at 
https://www.qsl.net/g4wpw/date.html.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/2/2021 11:38 AM, Ken Winterling wrote:

Bob,

Can you build adapters if you have schematics?
DIY gives you lots of possibilities.
⁣



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Re: [Elecraft] Rf Choke placement

[Don Wilhelm]

Those RF chokes are bi-lateral - they can be installed either way, just 
like resistors.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/2/2021 10:18 AM, JAMES GUNNOE wrote:

Hi all,
Building a K2 kit.
Does it matter which way to install the RF chokes? I am speaking of the color 
coded ones that resemble resistors.




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Re: [Elecraft] K2 K2 QSK?

[Don Wilhelm]

Jerry,

Your K2 #1 DOES have AGC - it is built into ALL K2s.
There are 2 possibilities - 1) the AGC has been turned off - that is a 2 
button function of PRE/ATT button and the AGC button pressed at the same 
time.  Normally just using the AGC button changes between FAST and SLOW.


2) The AGC threshold is not correct.  If the serial number is 3000 or 
above, there is a pot (R1 on the Control Board) to adjust the threshold 
- see the K2 manual for where to measure while setting it.


There are 2 VFOs in the K2 although only one is displayed at a time.  A 
simple tap of the A=B button will sync the 2 VFOs


It sounds like you  might benefit from downloading the K2 Quick 
Reference from my webpage www.w3fpr.com.  Look near the bottom of the 
homepage.  There is a lot more function to the K2 than meets the eye.


You will have to get the answer to your QSK on the K4 from someone else, 
but I expect it to be superb - I know both the K2 with the K2 Keying 
Waveshape Mod (SN 4660 and above) and the K3/K3S have excellent QSK 
keying, and I expect the same with the K4.


Unfortunately, the K2 Keying Waveshape Mod is not available from 
Elecraft, but Dave Van Wallaghen W8FGU was talking about providing a kit 
for it.  If your K2 does not have it, I would recommend contacting Dave.
To check your K2 for the presence of that mod, remove the bottom panel 
and look at D36 - if it is a clear PIN diode or a PIN diode mounted on 
and SMD carrier board, the mod is installed.  That mod is important for 
preventing keyclicks which are not noticeable for the QRP K2, but become 
obvious with the KPA100 (or other amplifier).


73,
Don W3FPR


On 10/24/2021 3:52 PM, jerry wrote:
So:   Somehow I wound up with two K2s.  I bought the first one because 
it was small - multiband - and QSK.  I have
become enamored of transparent, conversational QSK - the kind where 
your transmitted signal just sounds like all the other signals.  The 
K2 alas is not that, although it is PIN diode switched.  I don't think 
any commercial transceiver is.


  Got K2 #2 to get the KPA100.  Moved the KPA100 to #1, because #1 has 
all the good mods - the PLL mod, the volume control mod, the upgraded 
crystals, etc.


 The closest I have been to really good QSK is a QRP-labs QCX+ kit.  
But it's only one band, and the receiver is probably not as good as a 
K2 with a crystal filter - and K2 #1 even has the DSP audio filter.  
AND it lacks AGC.  I was operating field day, a local came on and 
nearly blew me out of my chair :).


  So here's my idea for perfect QSK:  I use the two K2's as a 
transmitter receiver pair.  One on transmit, the other on receive.  
Connect them to the antenna with a custom PIN diode switch.  W6JL has 
a lot of info on that in his QRZ page.
Arrange something like 130dB attenuation or whatever 100W ( or 
500w if I use a linear ) down to a microvolt or two.


 HOWEVER... I really don't want to be synchronizing VFOs all the 
time.  So I find some sort of open source transceiver

control program.  And modify it so it tunes TWO radios at the same time.

  How good is QSK on the K4?  Smooth/transparent?  Or 
clicky-choppy-AGC-pumpy?




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Re: [Elecraft] Help getting WSJTx audio out thru K3

[Don Wilhelm]

Bob,

Go to my webpage www.w3fpr.com and read the articular about setting the 
transmit audio levels.
There are up to 3 sound level controls involved, 2 in the computer and 
one in the K3.


If you are using the MIC input, there are 2 levels - high output mics 
and low output mics.  Your audio soundcard should be able to use the 
high output setting, but if it was reset to the low output mic setting, 
that could explain your problem.


Strive for 4 bars solid on the ALC bargraph with the 5th bar flashing.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/15/2021 3:43 PM, Bob KD7YZ wrote:

Hello K3 List

Just got my K3 back from Elecraft.
Updates past K3s
KSYN33A Upgrade installed.

Now, I haven't had the K3 for about 3 months. But when I went to use WSJTx, FT8, as well 
as FLDigi, although the rig keys; goes on correct frequency, no audio drive appears at 
the rig  nor at the Sound Control panel "Level" of the audio codec.

I can decode the FT8 alright.
  And if I redirect the audio output of FLDigi to sys-speakers, I hear the 
audio, when trhe rig also keys.

Where is an internal "Config" setting that got reset during the serious 
re-vamping of my K3?

thanks



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 / WSJT-X Delayed Transmit

[Don Wilhelm]

Jim,

Two possible fixes:
1) Use PTT via CAT command - most digital applications provide for it.
2) Check that your audio levels are sufficient - for the Elecraft gear, 
you should have 4 bars of ALC solid with the 5th one blinking.  See the 
full explanation on my website www.w3fpr.com.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/11/2021 3:23 PM, James Bennett via Elecraft wrote:

David -

I’ve played with the VOX Gain to no avail - at zero the rig never transmits, 
and at 100 (where it has been sitting) I get the delay. Various settings in 
between have no effect. The Delay controls how quickly the rig goes back into 
receive mode after speaking. But, thanks for the hints!

Jim Bennett / K7TXA
Eagle, ID



On Oct 11, 2021, at 12:00 PM, D Remy  wrote:

I know nothing about operating in the digital modes but wonder if the delays 
might be changed with Vox Gain and Delay settings.

Good luck!
David, NS4V


David R. Hourdequin, PE
Specialty Heavy Timber Engineer
828-421-6216


On Oct 11, 2021, at 13:57, James Bennett via Elecraft 
 wrote:

Hi Folks,

Wondering if someone on the list might be able to solve this one. I’m using a 
K3 and while CW is my main passion, I do dabble in FT8 occasionally. I’ve 
noticed that the radio does not start transmitting right at the start of the 15 
second FT8 cycle. It will start anywhere from 2 - 5 seconds into the cycle. I 
can’t help but think that is not a good thing and could be the cause of an 
occasional missed QSO. I DO make QSOs but this kinda bothers me. The audio 
signals are delayed this amount of time, as is the red TX light coming on - I 
am using VOX . Same thing happens when I press the TUNE button - it takes 
anywhere from 2-5 seconds for the rig to go into transmit mode.

I really doubt it is due to computer overload, as the only applications running 
are WSJT-X, MacLoggerDX (my logging program), and JT-Bridge  - all other 
applications have been ended. Since this happens when I press TUNE, that pretty 
much eliminates JT-Bridge and MacLoggerDX as the cause. Some hardware and 
software specifics:

Mac mini, 32 GB RAM, 3GHz processor, 6 cores, Intel Core i5.
Mac OS Big Sur 11.5
WSJT-X 2.4.0
Audio Interface: Tascam US-125M external USB device
Values in the DT column are consistently about 0.1 - 0.4

Wasn’t sure if I should post this here or on the WSJT-X list, but I thought I’d 
start here. Any ideas?


Jim / K7TXA
Eagle, ID
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Re: [Elecraft] KXBC3 charger question

[Don Wilhelm]

Eddy,

The most likely answer is that your batteries are self discharging.  
NiMH batteries will do that, although there are low self discharge 
batteries available that you should look into.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/4/2021 11:14 PM, Eddy - k6sdw wrote:

  I have a KX3 with the KXBC3 Nimh charger and Nimh batteries installed. My
question is: What's the current drain on the NICADS when I store the KX3
for long periods of time? The KX3 is primarily used for portable operation
and when I put the KX3 on the bench the batteries are dead needing
recharging. I wonder if I should pull on AA battery out during storage?




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Re: [Elecraft] PX3 kit tips?

[Don Wilhelm]

Julie,

Just follow the instructions.  You will need a #1 Phillips screwdriver.
If you don't understand any procedure, ask here.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/30/2021 3:34 PM, Julia Tuttle wrote:

Hi folks,

I got jealous of the waterfall display on my girlfriend's IC-7300, so I got
myself a PX3, and since the kit but not the factory version was in stock, I
got the kit. (Normally I'd be *more* than happy to pay Elecraft the $20 to
build it perfectly, but I'm impatient.)

I've got the assembly instructions, and an anti-static wrist strap, and the
aftermarket SideKX panels and cover, and the kit itself is arriving
tomorrow.

Does anyone have any assembly tips besides what's in the manual?

Thanks and 73,

Julie



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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100/KAT100 EC2 Combo to ICOM 705

[Don Wilhelm]

Robin,

That will not work.  The KPA100 depends on internal signals from the 
base K2 such as AUXBUS and several other signals to operate and control 
power output.  In other words, it is an amplifier dedicated to the K2 
and not a general purpose amplifier.


The KXPA100 and KXAT100 would serve you better than cobbling up an 
interface that would be quite complex.


he signals needed are those in the 9 pin AUX IO connector.  AUXBUS 
allows the base K2 firmware to 'talk' to the KPA100 firmware IC as well 
as the KAT100 firmware.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/29/2021 10:59 AM, Robin Tew wrote:

Hi All
Just thinking about using the KPA100/KAT100 EC2 Combo with the Icom 705.

Any pointers,ideas,tips etc. To achieve this?.
Many thanks
Robin G4JDO




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Re: [Elecraft] P3 Acting Wonky

[Don Wilhelm]

Jim,

Check the BNC cable between the K3 IF Out and the P3.  At the P3 end, 
make sure it is connected to IF IN.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/23/2021 4:48 PM, James Bennett via Elecraft wrote:

Hope someone can help me out on this one. I just moved into a new home, 
relocating my station from CA to ID. Got the K3/P3/KAT500/KPA500 all hooked up. 
All was working fine at the previous QTH. Now, the P3 is not showing me any 
signals. The “signal level” is below S0. I have an IC-705 that I key up at 10 
watts into an inside dipole. It registers 60 over S9 on the K3 meter, but not a 
trace of signal showing on the P3. The frequency display on the P3 is spot-on 
with what the K3 is set to. If I turn on marker A on the P3 then tap to QSY, 
the K3 obeys and follows. That kinda tells me the cabling between the two is OK.

So, why do I not see any signal at all on the P3? Pilot error? Could be, but 
where…?



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 transmitter power woes

[Don Wilhelm]

Chet,

It sounds like you do not have sufficient audio drive.

In DATA A mode, how many ALC bars do you obtain?  You must have 4 bars 
solid with the 5th one flashing.
Adjust the audio levels from the computer to achieve that - I assume you 
are using LINE in.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/13/2021 3:56 PM, chetsubacco...@snet.net wrote:

My K3 transmitter has been struggling for months to behave. I've heard the
service dept turnaround in CA is very long so I might not see it the rest of
the year if I sent it in and wanted to avoid that if possible. I've followed
advice suggested here with no lasting success.

Especially on 6M the power sometimes takes a long time deciding to reach the
setpoint. Sometimes it will be OK, but a few hours later after just sitting
there, it again won't, and drops to a low output level.

I've run the transmitter gain calibration routine again and again and it
fails. Sometimes I get an ERRTXG on 160, 80, 40M. Sometimes the 5W
calibration shows errtxg as it runs but the utility says the calibration had
succeeded.

I've checked that the bandpass filters are OK by using an antenna analyzer
with an attenuator to check receiver sensitivity- all bands seem pretty
close.

I've rechecked if the LPA FET's are ok (I changed two last year), and set
their bias current levels again and all seems well with them.

I've upped the supply voltage- that seems to work for a day or two but then
same old problems come back

I've replaced the fwd and rev power meter Schottky diodes, no fix.

Sometimes when the transmitter fails to reach the set power level, I can
tweak the pwr knob and it will reach the changed level, but sometimes not
and it falls back to a lower value. On 6M, while in "tune" if the power does
not reach the setpoint (e.g. 30W) and I turn the pwr knob down below 12
where the 100w amp is bypassed and then turn it back up to reengage the 100w
amp, the power will sometimes reach and stay at the setpoint (30W). But that
condition does not stay Ok too long.

The transverter output also exhibits similar power problems

I've reloaded the firmware. The utility initially reported  "checksum
reconciliation value" and I have no idea what that means.

And finally, this weekend, when I set the  receive mode to data-a, the audio
output had shifted to a higher freq spectrum width (e.g. 500-3300) on the
WSJT spectrum display with clearly more hiss in the speaker. Cycling the
xtal filters, normalling the shifts and widths had no effect. Changed the
mode to USB and the audio spectrum was normal, change back to data-a and it
was shifted. So I operated WSJT-X in USB. Hours later, data-a was back to
normal. First time I've observed that. Today it is AOK. GOK what happened
Saturday.

Any other suggestions before I bit the bullet and prepare to send it to
Elecraft? Thanks for any ideas.

Chet, N8RA

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 keyer problem

[Don Wilhelm]

Bill,

Do you mean that it transmits dashes until the dit side is released?
If so, check the dash spacing on your paddles (increase the spacing) and 
clean the paddle contacts.

Also increase the spring tension on the dash side.

It sounds to me that somehow the contacts of the paddles may be 'getting 
stuck'.  I cannot think of any this could be a problem inside the K2 - 
unless RF Board R1 and R2 are something other than 220 ohms and/or not 
well soldered.  You can remove the left side panel to check R1 and R2.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/7/2021 12:16 PM, wks9...@charter.net wrote:

I am using a K2 pre-3000 SN model with all the upgrades to the new PWB
configuration installed. Software version is 2.04R. When sending an "L" by
pressing the dit side of the paddle continuously and touching the dash key
as the first dit is being sent, sometimes the rig transmits continuously
until the dit side is released. This happens maybe once in 20 times. Any
help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Bill K5EMI

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Re: [Elecraft] MH3 mic case

[Don Wilhelm]

Geert,

From your description of the "straight connections" and round plug, I 
believe you are referring to the MH4 - the original question was about 
the MH3 which has a 1/8 inch TRRS plug and resistors in the microphone 
for the buttons.


The MH4 is usable with the K2 and K3, the MH3 is usable with the KX2 and 
KX3.


The plastic case for both microphones is the same.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/4/2021 6:26 AM, Geert Jan de Groot wrote:


Does anyone know if Elecraft sell replacement cases for this 
expensive microphone? I've barely used mine (I'm a CW chap) and it's 
already fallen apart! The three plastic internal mounting pillars 
have snapped off. I guess it's been dropped, but only on to carpet 
and I'm minded to think a $70 mic should easily withstand that.


Last month I emailed Elecraft via their online parts order form, but 
not had an acknowledgement. Maybe they're all on summer leave?


Making forms for plastic moulding is extremely expensive and Elecraft 
did not make one specially for the MH3.


Looking on ebay, https://www.ebay.com/itm/281509579500 finds a 
microphone that uses the same case. The electronics inside is 
different (and, frankly, the MH3's innards are a lot nicer than these 
ebay microphones) but the casing is the same.

It has a different brand name on the case but that is only a sticker.

You can make these ebay microphones work by changing the wiring a bit, 
especially for the down/up buttonw. The radios these are sold for use 
resistors on the PTT line to signal up and down, on Elecraft they are 
direct connections.

And PTT and audio are on other pins so you need to change that too.

When I have the microphone plug open, I always add a 5K6 resistor 
between the 5V and the mic output in the plug. This power the electret 
microphone irrespective of "mic bias" settings in the menu. And it 
makes the same microphone also usable on the K2 (where the up and down 
buttons don't work, alas).


In defense of Elecraft, yes, their microphones are probably "also made 
in the east" but there is a difference in quality which will be quite 
visible when you compare them. Having said that, an electret 
microphone is an electret microphone and the reports on the air are 
not different.


And, if the round plug is change for, for instance th Neutrik NTP3RC 
(see https://www.neutrik.com/en/product/ntp3rc) then the same 
microphone will also work on the KX3. You will need to change the 
wiring to make the buttons work but that is not hard.


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Re: [Elecraft] Bad Ham Radio Day

[Don Wilhelm]

Jerry,

It sounds like some RF from the KPA100 could be getting into the base K2.

Is your KPA100 upgraded with the latest updates, AND the new shield?

For the latest update, peek between the shield and the board - If you 
see blue toroid cores at RFC1 and L16, then it is up to date - OTOH, if 
you see red core toroids at L15 and L16, install KPA100UPKT.


On the shield, it should have spring clips to ground it to the sides of 
the base K2 - make certain that the area where the spring clips contact 
the sides of the base K2 has been cleared of all paint - sandpaper works.
Also check the width of the slot in the shield next to the SO239 ANT 
jack - it should be only a bit wider than 1/8 inch.  If it is the older 
wide slot, replace the shield with KPA100SHLDKT.
Also, there should be 2 bent-over solder lugs that connect the top of 
the shield to the SO239 jack.  Make sure they are soldered together.  If 
missing, they are supplied as part of KPA100SHLDKT.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/4/2021 5:03 PM, jerry wrote:

Hi Elecraft list & Bob,

Sigh.  Sometimes it don't pay to get up in the morning.

First, I was having a CW QSO on 40M with a station in the East Coast...
My K2/10 was driving the Tiny Linear - we were seeing 150W on the meter.
Suddenly, the screen of the linear flashed bright white, and the RF 
went away, leaving me with the barefoot K2.


  Seems that 150W was Just Too Much for the little fan-driven heat 
sink, and the PA transistor shorted out.  My fault, of course.  I have 
a few more of those transistors, but I'll have to hold the power down, 
instrument the heat sink temperature, and put in some sort of protection.


  In the meantime...

  I installed the recently acquired KPA100 in my K2.  Actually, that 
KPA100 came from ANOTHER K2, acquired on Ebay.  I swapped it into my 
first K2, because that one has the V2 mods, including the upgraded 
crystals.


  So here I am, ready to continue hamming.  My K2 ( now /100 ) is 
doing strange rf-in-the-shack'y things.  If I send a bit of CW, my 
sent CW starts breaking up, and strange pops and clicks (like relays ) 
come out of the radio.  Then when I stop sending, the radio is 
completely silent - no audio.  I can see band noise and signals on the 
S-meter(bargraph) but no audio WHATSOEVER.  Hitting a band button or 
the display button fixes it, and audio is back.


  Sometimes OTOH, when I stop transmitting, the audio comes back much 
LOUDER than it was before I transmitted.


  This all happens at any power level where the final is engaged. If I 
turn the power down to 8W or so, all is good.  If otoh, I turn the 
power knob anywhere past that *click* where the PA comes on line, the 
bad things happen. Even at, say, 12W.


   I made up a short length of RG8/U with 4 Palomar 31-mix giant 
ferrite beads - a common mode choke.  No difference.


   With a dummy load, all is good.  No fuss no muss, it just transmits 
nice.


   The antenna is very low SWR.  It is a 6BTV vertical about 100 feet 
up the hill from the house.  There is an MFJ998RT remote autotuner up 
at the base of the antenna.  It is grounded with an Ufer ground - 80 
feet of #6 copper wire

buried in the concrete pad, which is 70 feet long by 10 feet wide.

   If I turn the PA off, the K2 behaves well, even at the full 15W. 
Tune mode shows SWR 1.2 to 1.  My K2 btw has the KDSP2 audio filter.


    - Jerry KF6VB
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Re: [Elecraft] MH3 mic case

[Don Wilhelm]

Ian,

Elecraft has had a 'rash' of those incidents, but I thought they 
addressed that with the mic vendor (yes, Elecraft does not stock parts 
for the mic, they buy them whole from the vendor).


There was some speculation a few months ago about the cause -- and I 
don't know the answer.  Many thought the vendor may have overtightened 
the screws, or there was a bad batch of plastic.


The MH4 does not have that problem as far as I know, and it is the same 
case style.


I hope you hear something from Elecraft soon, but Labor Day holiday is 
Monday, so send another email to supp...@elecraft.com as soon as 
possible today - I know it is late in the day for you.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/3/2021 5:00 PM, Ian Liston-Smith wrote:

Goodness! Thanks for all the replies where you've had the same happen. It's 
extremely disappointing that Elecraft ended up selling an inferior product for 
so much money - especially if they are not going to sell spare cases. Seems 
this is a very common problem and not just me being clumsy.

My mic will be under warranty, but I doubt Elecraft will pay the return postage 
from the UK, and anyway they're likely to say it's been mishandled and not 
covered under warranty anyway - despite this obviously being a common problem.

Maybe someone from Elecraft could reply here as I've still not had a reply to 
my email to their spares department.

Thanks for the gluing suggestions and I have tried that, but on reassembly a thought: 
"This really shouldn't be necessary, surely they sell spare cases." But I guess 
not if they just buy them from China!

If this was some cheap, unbranded stuff from the Far East, fair enough, but it 
isn't!

Come on Elecraft...




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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] HI CUR ok?

[Don Wilhelm]

Doug,

Please read this whole post.  If you have questions about any part of 
it, please ask.


A Hi Cur message does not mean that the PA transistors are in danger.
All it means is that the current draw is greater than what is set in CAL 
CUR.


Set CAL CUR to 3.5 for most operation, and all should be OK.  If you 
have 'special conditions', like when running on a battery, you might 
want to set CAL CUR to a lower value to indicate that the battery 
voltage is getting low.
Check your power source voltage at the K2 end - ideally it should be 
13.8 or even higher.


What does the voltage have to do with the current draw, you may ask -- 
The K2 attempts to maintain the power output requested by the Power 
knob.  Do a little ohms law - if for a power of 10 watts, you need 13.8 
volts and 2.5 amps, if your voltage during transmit drops to 12.7 volts, 
the current MUST go up to maintain that 10 watts output.  The K2 
firmware does just that, and if the current increases above the CAL CUR 
setting, it will flash the HI CUR message and fold the power back.  That 
is how the K2 protects the PA transistors.


When operating on batteries with CAL CUR set at 2.5, you can expect a HI 
CUR message at 10 watts.


So check your power source voltage in transmit (use the K2 display to 
see the internal voltage) and if you have less than 12.7 volts, that is 
reason for the Hi CUR message.


You can increase the CAL CUR setting to 3.5 with no harm - in fact, that 
is what the setting should be if the KPA100 is installed.  CAL CUR and 
HI CUR relate only to the base K2, and not to the KPA100 - that is an 
indication that a CAL CUR setting of 3.5 is not a problem.  When I was 
repairing K2s, I always set CAL CUR at 3.5 even if they were only a K2/10.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/2/2021 4:56 PM, Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft wrote:

I was out this morning trying some antenna configurations at the park, ten 
different setups, one one of them gave me a HI CUR error. It was on 20 meters 
with 10 watts and with the current limit set at 2.5 amps, left over from when I 
was working on the radio a few days ago. The SWR was 1.2 into a 49 foot wire 
using the KAT2 tuner.

Am I correct in understanding that high current in the power amplifier is not 
bad in and of itself, as long as it stays below the point where it damages the 
transistors? In other words, if the power setting is high (here, 10 watts) then 
with a good antenna the PA will see high current just as part of normal 
operation? And that the goal is to set the limit high enough (3.5 A) so that 
the error doesn’t occur AND the transistors don’t burn out?

Sorry for asking these questions that were probably answered in 2002 or 
thereabouts!




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Re: [Elecraft] [K1] Reduce power when tuning K1?

[Don Wilhelm]

Doug,

The reduced power is a consideration for the internal tuner relays, not 
just for the PA transistors.
If you have the internal tuner installed, that power reduction is 
automatic.  For the K2/10, it is 2 watts and for the K1 it is 1.5 watts.

If you are using an external tuner, then manually reduce the power.

73,
Don W3FPR



On 8/30/2021 12:23 PM, Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft wrote:

In learning about my new-to-me K2, I find that there is discussion about 
automatic reduction of transmit power during tuning. Does that apply to the K1 
as well? The K1 uses the same output transistor as the K2, but in a 
single-transistor class C configuration, compared to the K2 which uses two of 
them in a push-pull configuration that can put out more power and can work with 
SSB. But at 5 watts, I would think the K2 transistors would be less stressed 
than the K1’s.

Is it worth manually setting the K1 power down to a lower level when tuning, in 
order to avoid power transistor problems? Both my radios have the internal 
tuner options.




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Re: [Elecraft] KIO2 and KUSB for K2?

[Don Wilhelm]

Paul,

You must construct the special cable that is specified in the KIO2 
manual - you can make it a short one if you want.
That cable has a DE9 connector on the PC end which you can plug into a 
serial port or into a USB to serial adapter - The KUSB sold by Elecraft 
is a good choice -- if you choose another USB to serial adapter, make 
certain it uses the FTDI chipset.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/23/2021 1:22 PM, Paul Huff wrote:

I am thinking about adding the KIO2 RS-232 serial interface to my K2 but I 
don’t know very much about computer hardware.  Would the KUSB serial cable that 
is also sold by Elecraft then be needed to connect the KIO2 to the USB port on 
my Mac computer?  Or is there something else that would be needed?




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Re: [Elecraft] K3S audio quality issue

[Don Wilhelm]

Mike,

That problem sounds a bit like the Calibration of the Reference 
Oscillator is off a bit.  See tha manual and use the Zero-Beating method 
as instructed.

There is a chance it will help, but no harm if it does not.

If you did not get the paper manual, download it from Elecraft.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/19/2021 3:38 PM, Mike Kholodov via Elecraft wrote:

  Hi Al,
I bought it used, so I'm not sure when exactly it started.  All SSB stations 
are sounding like mistuned ones, no matter how I tune the VFO. Sometimes it's 
better (less artifacts) when it is a little bit lower, but it sounds unnatural. 
AM seems to be fine. Of course, the first thing I did, I made sure that the EQ 
was flat and all DSP I know about was off. No NB, NR or AFX. Currently it 
happens only on 20M, 40M seems fine, haven't checked the others yet.
Mike, AB3VN




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Re: [Elecraft] K3S audio quality issue

[Don Wilhelm]

Mike,

Do you have the Noise Blanker turned on?  That will create some 
"strange" sounds in the audio.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/17/2021 5:10 PM, Mike Kholodov via Elecraft wrote:

  Listening to the K3S audio had become very fatiguing for me as of late. It 
sounds like hum or carrier is mixed in at the low end. It is very similar to 
the sound, if you tune a little bit higher on USB. I checked the same stations 
on my KX3, they sounded great. Used the same headphones in both cases. Has 
someone had the similar problem and is there any solution before I request the 
official support?
Thanks,Mike, AB3VN



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Power Level

[Don Wilhelm]

All,

I was reminded that I should have added that CW and SSB are low duty 
cycle modes while FT8 and several other data modes are high duty cycle 
and will produce more heat.


The 'finger test' I mentioned is suitable for any mode.

73,
Don W3FPR
--
Aaron,

I cannot give you a specific answer, but go by the heat.
I would suggest you first try 5 watts, and operate at that level for a 
while (I suggest 10 minutes).
Then check the heatsink temperature - if you can hold your fingers on it 
for longer than 5 minutes, then all is well.

Increase the power by about 3 watts and try again.
When the heat gets too much to comfortably hold your fingers on the 
heatsink (next to the PA transistors), then you have exceeded the 
maximum power which you should use for transmit.


The generalized answer is that you should consider those modes as 
continuous duty and use 1/2 the normal full power output, but I suggest 
doing the test I referred to as a specific power limit for your 
particular K2.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/13/2021 3:38 PM, Aaron K5ATG wrote:

What is the recommended highest power level for a QRP Elecraft K2 to
operate on digital modes like FT8, JT65 etc, without blowing the PA's?




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Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 RF gain knob inoperable

[Don Wilhelm]

Mike,

First set the AGC Threshold voltage, and then check the operation of the 
RF Gain to see if you can get the CAL S LO and CAL S HI settings to fall 
in line.

It is not likely that replacing the pot will fix it.

For a scratchy AF Gain control, replace the control, as well as doing 
the Alternate AF Gain Wiring Modification.  You can download the 
instructions from the Elecraft website.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/16/2021 10:27 AM, Mike Seiffert wrote:

Hi Folks,
I have an Elecraft K2/100 (S/N 01136) given to me by father (SK) some years 
ago. I am finally finding some time again for ham radio and would like to get 
this rig up and working well.  It has the A to B mods applied, and includes the 
options for SSB, DSP, 160/Rx ant, etc. I have applied the BFO and PLL upgrades.

My current problem is that the RF gain knob doesn’t seem to do anything. I was 
expecting to hear some difference in the level of received signals and to see 
the S-meter go to the right as I turn the knob fully CCW. Turning this knob 
seems to have no affect on anything.

Any help would be appreciated!  I mention the following details in case they 
are relevant: my father was mostly interested in 160m cw, so I’m not sure if 
other aspects of the radio received attention when he built it. The AF gain 
knob is scratchy - I’ve read about the mod that addresses this, but haven’t yet 
applied it. The AGC needs adjustment - I can tell the difference in volume AGC 
On vs off with no antenna connected. I don’t know that any of these are related 
to the RF gain.

Before I open things up to measure and replace the RF gain pot, are there other 
things I should check?  A quick check of the email reflector archive didn’t 
turn up anything obvious to me.




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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Power Level

[Don Wilhelm]

Aaron,

I cannot give you a specific answer, but go by the heat.
I would suggest you first try 5 watts, and operate at that level for a 
while (I suggest 10 minutes).
Then check the heatsink temperature - if you can hold your fingers on it 
for longer than 5 minutes, then all is well.

Increase the power by about 3 watts and try again.
When the heat gets too much to comfortably hold your fingers on the 
heatsink (next to the PA transistors), then you have exceeded the 
maximum power which you should use for transmit.


The generalized answer is that you should consider those modes as 
continuous duty and use 1/2 the normal full power output, but I suggest 
doing the test I referred to as a specific power limit for your 
particular K2.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/13/2021 3:38 PM, Aaron K5ATG wrote:

What is the recommended highest power level for a QRP Elecraft K2 to
operate on digital modes like FT8, JT65 etc, without blowing the PA's?



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Re: [Elecraft] My appeal for help regarding my KXPA100 Failure to Turn on and Stay On

[Don Wilhelm]

Carter,

Contact support for further assistance.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/13/2021 6:43 AM, Carter Craigie wrote:
My thanks to the three fine Elecrafters who sent me suggestions to fix 
my KXPA100 amplifier. I tried their suggestions, but no joy.


The problem I have?
After months of fine operation in my garage “Summer Station” I moved 
my whole station inside where the air conditioning is. Out in the 
garage was just too darn hot!
Well, I guess “something” changed when I reassembled my KX3 and my PX3 
and the KXPA100, as the Amp slowly started putting out fewer and fewer 
Watts; finally, it “gave up the ghost” and declined to turn on again, 
after about a ten-second flashing of LEDs.

So…
Anyone with more suggestions to get it back to its original state of 
putting out up to and including 100 Watts?

Or,
Do I need to send it in for repairs? And, if that is the case, how do 
I proceed, please?

73,
Carter Craigie, N3AO
Blacksburg, VA



--
Carter, N3AO
Blacksburg, VA


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 RF Output

[Don Wilhelm]

Jerry,

Are you measuring the power output with an external wattmeter?  Or are 
you depending on the power setting in the base K2.  Use an external 
wattmeter while troubleshooting this problem and a dummy load (not an 
antenna) connected to the wattmeter.


The K2 power will fold back when the CAL CUR point is reached.  I still 
say it is a wattmeter problem because that is the normal problem.


Leave the KPA100 connected, and place it 'on its back' on a box or book 
about 1/2 the height of the K2.  Remove the shield and get out your DMM.


When you have done that, send me an email off-reflector (direct email 
and take {Elecraft}  out of the subject line.
The troubleshooting details are not likely of interest to the rest of 
the list.  You can summarize the results to the list when it is resolved.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/12/2021 1:22 PM, jerry wrote:

On 2021-08-08 09:49, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Jerry,

Replace diodes D16 and D17 in the KPA100 wattmeter, and things should
settle down.


*** The diodes came in from Mouser yesterday, and I replaced them.  
Things
are still not right.  I did get a good adjustment on C1, and it now 
reads 1 to 1

on all bands.

   HOWEVER, it still will not give full power. It fails with "HiCUR".

  If the KPA100 is installed but not powered up ( power from the 
barrel connector ),

it gets to about 8W then fails "HiCUR".

  If the KPA100 is installed AND powered up AND enabled via the menu:
   on 40M, it gets to a bit over 80W, then says "HiCUR".
   on 20M it gets to about 65W, then "HiCUR"

  If I uninstall the KP100 completely, the radio gives full power - 
15.3W on

20M, 16.7W on 40M.

  Very mystifying.  I made up a cord to connect the barrel connector 
to my lab supply.
Interesting results:  with the KPA100 connected but power through the 
barrel, the radio
simply does draw enough current to shut it down with "HiCUR" at 8W.  
It shuts down at

EXACTLY 3.5A measured by the power supply.

  With the KPA100 entirely disconnected, the radio makes 16W on 40M at 
3.15A.


  So my conclusion is that something in the KPA100 is drawing excess 
current, in transmit mode, even though the KPA100 is mostly not 
operating.


   In "tune" with the power all the way down, and the KPA100 
connected, the radio draws

750mA through the barrel connector.

   In "tune" with the power all the way down, and the KPA100 
DISCONNECTED, the radio

draws 440mA through the barrel connector.

 - Jerry KF6VB













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Re: [Elecraft] Help Needed for KPA100 Amplifier

[Don Wilhelm]

Carter,

Check/replug and check again the RJ45 plug on the back of the KXPA100.  
It must be locked in place.  You should hear a light click as it is 
fully seated in its socket.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/12/2021 12:42 PM, Carter Craigie wrote:

  My problems all started when I moved my Elecraft KX3, PX3, and the ASTRON
RS-35A PS from the garage upstairs to the second floor. At first I noticed
that my Amp would put out only about 70-80 Watts. Then the output went
lower and lower until the Amp would not turn on. See below.




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Re: [Elecraft] K2 RF Output

[Don Wilhelm]

That won't work - the KPA100 must be physically removed to keep the base 
K2 from using the KPA100 wattmeter.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/8/2021 1:54 PM, Frank Krozel wrote:

Just power the radio, not the PA
-73-  Frank    KG9H
kg9hfr...@gmail.com <mailto:kg9hfr...@gmail.com>




On Aug 8, 2021, at 12:16 PM, jerry <mailto:je...@tr2.com>> wrote:


All,

  Can I just remove the KPA100 and test the K2 "bare" for current draw?

- Jerry KF6VB


On 2021-08-08 09:49, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Jerry,
Replace diodes D16 and D17 in the KPA100 wattmeter, and things should
settle down.
If you attempted to adjust KPA100 C1 while this condition was present,
balance the wattmeter again, it will change with good diodes
installed.
The diodes are 1N5711 type.
That wattmeter is still used as long as the KPA100 is installed on the
base K2 - reducing the power to less than 12 watts does not take it
out of line.
CAL CUR should be set at 3.5 amperes with the KPA100 installed. That
(and the current display) is the current drawn by only the base K2,
and not to the KPA100.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 8/8/2021 12:24 PM, jerry wrote:

All,
  My new QRO K2 behaves a little strangely...
On Tune - it makes 108W on 40M, very nice.
But on 20M it behaves strangely.  It won't make more than 20W or 
so, complains about high SWR. Even though my Heathkit HM-102 
SWR/Wattmeter says the SWR is zilch.
So I moved it to a dummy load.  As I turn the power up, it makes up 
to about 80W, and then says "Hi CURR".  And it claims that the 
dummy load ( an 800W "Florida RF" resistor bolted to a large 
heatsink ) is 1.6 to 1, which is totally bogus.
OK, there's a null trimmer for the SWR bridge.  I got it down to 
1-to-1 SWR on 20M.  It degrades on higher bands though - up to 1.5 
to 1 on 10M.
Now, 20M gives me a max of 45W - above that it complains "HI CUR".  
It's doing that on all bands. With the PA off via menu, I get a 
maximum of about 8.5W before getting the "HI CUR" message. I tried 
setting the current up a little bit on the CAL CUR menu, but no 
real difference.
  With a clamp-on DC ammeter ( which I don't trust THAT much ) I 
see 340mA on receive,
and just about 3.6A when the display goes "HI CUR". This is with 
the PA turned off.  The
display shows 7W just before this happens.  Hmm, 13.8V times 3.5A 
means 48.3W DC input.  Seems a little excessive.

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 RF Output

[Don Wilhelm]

Jerry,

Replace diodes D16 and D17 in the KPA100 wattmeter, and things should 
settle down.
If you attempted to adjust KPA100 C1 while this condition was present, 
balance the wattmeter again, it will change with good diodes installed.

The diodes are 1N5711 type.

That wattmeter is still used as long as the KPA100 is installed on the 
base K2 - reducing the power to less than 12 watts does not take it out 
of line.


CAL CUR should be set at 3.5 amperes with the KPA100 installed. That 
(and the current display) is the current drawn by only the base K2, and 
not to the KPA100.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/8/2021 12:24 PM, jerry wrote:

All,

  My new QRO K2 behaves a little strangely...

On Tune - it makes 108W on 40M, very nice.

But on 20M it behaves strangely.  It won't make more than 20W or so, 
complains about high SWR. Even though my Heathkit HM-102 SWR/Wattmeter 
says the SWR is zilch.


So I moved it to a dummy load.  As I turn the power up, it makes up to 
about 80W, and then says "Hi CURR".  And it claims that the dummy load 
( an 800W "Florida RF" resistor bolted to a large heatsink ) is 1.6 to 
1, which is totally bogus.


OK, there's a null trimmer for the SWR bridge.  I got it down to 
1-to-1 SWR on 20M.  It degrades on higher bands though - up to 1.5 to 
1 on 10M.


Now, 20M gives me a max of 45W - above that it complains "HI CUR".  
It's doing that on all bands.  With the PA off via menu, I get a 
maximum of about 8.5W before getting the "HI CUR" message. I tried 
setting the current up a little bit on the CAL CUR menu, but no real 
difference.


  With a clamp-on DC ammeter ( which I don't trust THAT much ) I see 
340mA on receive,
and just about 3.6A when the display goes "HI CUR".  This is with the 
PA turned off.  The
display shows 7W just before this happens.  Hmm, 13.8V times 3.5A 
means 48.3W DC input.  Seems a little excessive.


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 dilemma update.

[Don Wilhelm]

Richard,

The two horizontal bars in the SWR display indicate that the KAT3 is not 
installed, go to the menu and activate it.


As for plugging in the speaker, hold the top cover in a tilted position 
and route the wire under the horizontal bar in the center, then onto the 
speaker plug on the vertical board near the left rear corner.  You 
should see the male header easily.


If you have a saved configuration file, load it, and I think your K3 
will come back to life.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/8/2021 11:30 AM, Richard Isaacs via Elecraft wrote:

As mentioned, one day it worked, overnight while I slept, gremlins at work.

Unit powers up but will not receive or transmit. White noise is heard and all 
buttons seem operable. The only issue I do notice, when ATU is tapped, instead 
of a number indicating swr, two bars horizontally appear and at the bottom of 
the display 5W is displayed. Somehow I think nothing is burned but an 
adjustment needs to be made. P3 is operational but of course not showing scales 
or waterfall. Upon advisement from others, I undid the top and see nor smell 
and burning or charing, I am asking for help in plugging back in speaker plug 
as well. It came unplugged during removal of top and I want to make sure it 
goes back where it came from.

I have two other radios running off an MFJ switch 1700c, and they RX/TX. 
Perhaps I tapped or held a button and have disconnected RX/TX and could be 
easily rectified without a long and costly trip back to Made In America. I live 
in Syracuse and hate to think of the gorillas along the way handling my “stuff.”

Any ideas and or instructing me where the speaker plug would be helpful. I am 
not a builder, nor a contester…the unit is casually used, and there are very 
few “Elecrafters” here in Central New York to speak with. Oh, I went back to a 
prior configuration from Doug Nathan at Made In America, and did a revision of 
firmware 5.67 which was successful.

Any help would be appreciated and useful. I can’t see how one day it is perfect 
and the next day it is not.

Thanking you all in advance,




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Re: [Elecraft] K2

[Don Wilhelm]

Jerry,

What is the serial number of that K2?  If below SN 3000, it likely does 
not have the alternate AF gain wiring.

In any case, with those symptoms, replace tha AF Gain pot.

Check to see if the KPA100 has the latest updates.  The instructions for 
the KPA100UPPKT will tell you.
Also check for the latest KPA100 shield.  The latest shield has spring 
clips to ground it to the base K2 (sand the paint off the contact 
places) -- also check for the width of the slot above the SO239 jack, it 
should be narrow (a bit over 1/8 inch).  If it is the older wide slot, 
replace the shield with the KPA100SHLDKT.


You can use the K2ATOBKIT instructions to check for other upgrades - be 
sure to check all the mod kits that are listed on the 1st page of the 
ATOB instructions.  Also check the markings on the crystals both on the 
RF Board and the KSB2 adapter - if they are maked with a "-S" suffix, 
they are the latest.
You can check the firmware level for the base K2 easily - hold any 
button down while powering on and the MCU and KIO2 levels will be 
briefly shown in the display - the latest is 2.04r MCU and 1.09 KIO2.


If you do not remember how to disassemble the K2 to get to the headphone 
jack, take a look at https://www.qsl.net/wy3a/Replace_K2_Headphone_Jack.htm.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/7/2021 2:05 PM, jerry wrote:

All,

   My new K2/100 has a scratchy volume control knob.  Also, it still 
makes noise
at full CCW.  I suspect that the volume control mod was not done. I'll 
be taking it

apart to take a look.

   If none of the mods were done, it might make sense to just transfer 
the KPA100
& KAF2 to my QRP K2, which does have the mods.  I already looked, and 
the QRP_K2 DOES have

the mods for installing the QRO module.

  Also, the headphone jack feels a little looser on the new K2. Still 
works fine, just

a teensy bit looser.

  The finger detent thing on the front of the tuning knob had come 
loose - I'm guessing things out hot out there in shipping.  I stuck it 
back on, it's not going anywhere.  But that gave me a thought - is 
there a finger detent with a bearing out there?


   - Jerry KF6VB




  - Jerry KF6VB









On 2021-08-06 16:47, jerry wrote:

All,

  I just scored a K2/100 on Ebay.  It came in at noon today. Took me
a while to fabricate a power cord.
With inline 20A fuse, natch.  The Bird says it makes over 100W. It
also has the audio filter, which my K2/10 doesn't.  And the ATU.
Buying the K2 seemed to be the only way to get a KPA100.

  Sometime next week, I'll take the new K2 apart and see if it has 
the mods.


   I have put aside my Tiny Linear project for the moment, in favor of
the Alpha 78...  Even though the Tiny Linear got me an S9 report from
*Barcelona* on 20M SSB this morning.   800W just seems like more
than 65W :).

The only trouble with the Alpha is that LOUD blower.  I do have a new
blower for it - got it back when
Alpha still stocked such things - but am not sure how much quieter a
new one would be.  A pair of noise
cancelling headphones fixes it right up though.  Blower?  What blower?



   - Jerry KF6VB
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Re: [Elecraft] K3/10 is sick and needs help!

[Don Wilhelm]

Dick,

Download either the KRX3 or KDVR3 installation instructions.  I know 
both tell you how to remove the Front Panel assembly.
That will tell not only how to remove the assembly, but just removing 
and re-instaling the Front Panel may wipe the pins enough to remove any 
oxidation and restore proper operation.


If tin pins, ask support@elecraft for the gold front panel pins. The old 
tin pins are not difficult to remove if you work on one pin at a time - 
remove the plastic separator, cutting it if you have to, then remove the 
pins one at a time.  Clean up with solder wick, and if solder remains in 
the holes, heat the solder pad and push it out with a wooden toothpick.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/7/2021 1:48 AM, RVZ via Elecraft wrote:

Hi Guys,

I received a used K3/10 this week via UPS Ground and it arrived sick.  The radio looks "Like New" 
even though it's an older unit: Serial 822.  Perhaps the radio has the front panel "tin pin" 
problem?  I'd appreciate you reviewing the following symptoms and let me know if you have any suggestions. 
Things that work: POWER button turns the radio on/off and the front panel Display lights and displays 
multiple items including Frequency. AF control turns the volume up/down.  VFO A and VFO B knobs change 
frequency. Receives signals well, S-meter works fine, and CW stations have a nice clear tone. Things that 
don't work: the BAND, MENU, DISP as pressing these have no action.  However, pressing some front panel 
buttons cause the wrong function, such as: pressing the XMIT button turns the PRE on/off and holding down the 
XMIT button turns on the ATT.  Similarly, pressing the ATU button on/off switches the AGC from Fast/Slow. I 
once had a K3 get sick after being shipped cross country and the solution was to Reset the radio through the 
recommended Initialization process.  However, I haven't been able to do an Initialization of this K3/10 
because "pressing and holding down the SHIFT/LO button while pressing the POWER button" as the 
Manual instructs doesn't Initialize the radio as it should.




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Re: [Elecraft] K2 and Signalink USB Setup

[Don Wilhelm]

Aaron,

Unless you have done some sort of mod to that K2, you do NOT have 
speaker audio at pin 6 of the mic jack.
The audio is on the Control Board and RF Board, but NOT the Front Panel 
board.


The schematic of the Kenwood MC-43S microphone from G4WPW (SK) shows no 
speaker function and no connection to pin 6.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/5/2021 10:50 AM, Aaron K5ATG wrote:

I have been using a Signalink USB with my K2 and the last time I
hooked the SignaLink to the K2 there was a real bad feedback sound
every time the rig went into transmit. It received just fine. So I
contacted Tigertronics and started a dialog with them and it turns out
I could have been setting up the Signalink wrong. Here is the setup, I
have my K2 wired to use a Kenwood MC-43S microphone. When I bought the
Signalink for the K2 they sent me the microphone cable and an Audio
cable. As per the instructions that I received from Tigertronics I am
to use the 8 pin microphone cable to connect from the K2 to the
Signalink. Then I have to connect the audio cable from the Ext Speaker
jack on the back of the K2 to the SPKR jack on the back of the
SignaLink. Then the USB from the SignaLink to the computer. Now
Tigertronics are saying that I do not need the audio cable. In the
dialog they asked what microphone I am using what it the pinout for
that microphone:
Pin1 Mic Input
Pin 2 PTT
Pin 3 N/C
Pin 4 N/C
Pin 5 8 VDC **
Pin 6 Speaker **
Pin 7 Mic GND
Pin 8 GND

** Speaker audio and power are available on some models.

Tigertronics is now asking for certain if I have Audio on Pin 6. Is
there a way for me to check this without having to take the K2 apart?


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Re: [Elecraft] K3/K3S Options and Upgrades

[Don Wilhelm]

Tom and all,

Elecraft still offers service on its legacy gear - KX1, K1, K2, 
XVseries, so as long as repair parts are available, you can expect 
service will be available for the K3/K3S in a similar manner.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/2/2021 9:26 AM, Thomas Donohue wrote:

Given the termination of options and upgrades, I’m concerned that the same 
thing will happen to K3/K3S service and repair. There are a lot of us here in 
customer land that will need that capability well into the future, therefore 
it’s loss or diminishment would adversely affect lots of folks.  I attempted to 
post this item on the K4 reflector and it was denied in part because it was off 
topic; however, it seems to me  that the increasing attention being paid to the 
K4, has resulted in less attention going to the K3/K3S. So, I would like to 
know how some of you out there feel about that?




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Re: [Elecraft] Frequency shifts of KX3 when selecting CW?

[Don Wilhelm]

Tom,

As an experiment, try tuning the KX3 to a valid ham band like 160 meters 
in AM mode, then switch to CW.

What happens?

1.000 MHz is in the middle of the AM broadcast band, so that is not a 
good example.  I am thinking perhaps this is built into the KX3 firmware 
to prevent transmitting CW on the AM broadcast band - but that is just a 
guess.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/26/2021 2:05 PM, Tom wrote:

Hi
I don't recall this happening before, but if I am tuned to a signal lets say
at 1.000 MHz in AM and then I switch to CW, the frequency display on the
radio changes to 1.600 MHz.
My K3 and KX2 do not do this.  Is there a setting somewhere?
I did drop my KX3 at one point recently so I am wondering if a button or
worse was pressed.
Thanks, Tom




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Re: [Elecraft] K2 CW - relay clicks

[Don Wilhelm]

Dave,

I am at a loss to tell you what is going on.  The T/R switching in the 
K2 is all electronic, no relays involved.
If a K2/100, break it down to just the base K2 and see if it is in the 
base K2 or in the KPA100.

If you have the K2/10, remove the top cover which contains the KAT2.

If it occurs in just the base K2, hold your finger on the relays one by 
one and see if you can detect which one is switching as you key the K2.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/24/2021 5:22 PM, K9SW wrote:

Recently bought a K2 and all was working well (silent QSK) until I moved from 
one spot on the bench to another.  It was powered up and one of the leads fell 
off the power supply connector, so this was a live power interruption.  After 
this, there are relay clicks when sending CW.  I did a reset, but this did not 
change the relay clicks.  Built the probe and did the CAL FIL routine and got 
it back on the air successfully.

S/N 100, with ATU and SSB board.

It would be nice to get back to silent QSK and preserve relay life.  Any 
suggestions appreciated!




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Re: [Elecraft] Changing K1 sidetone frequency

[Don Wilhelm]

Doug,

The answer is "yes and no".
Set the sidetone pitch in the menu, then adjust capacitor C20 (BFO 
adjust)  to center the filter at 600 Hz.
You also need to adjust the Transmit Offset to match (adjust C13) - see 
the manual for the procedure.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/23/2021 11:58 AM, Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft wrote:

Could someone please remind me if you can change the K1 sidetone pitch without 
retuning the filters? Or is it like the K2?




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Re: [Elecraft] In Line Power Pole Fuses

[Don Wilhelm]

Dave and all,

Placing the fuse near the power supply end is the way to do it.
In the event of a short, the power wire can spew metal and start a fire.
Always fuse near the power supply.  A fuse at the equipment end will 
only protect the equipment, but will expose the wire from the power 
supply to hazards.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/21/2021 10:43 PM, Dave wrote:

Hi,

I am unsure what you are asking...  If you are asking about fuse 
values, I select values a bit above the max peak current I expect.  
For my K3 I use a 30 amp fuse.


If you are asking about voltage drop, and want to know what the K3 
sees, there is a built in volt meter in the K3, (see the manual), 
which will show you the voltage at the K3, after all your fusing, and 
wiring.


I always take my voltage readings at full output.  I try and stay 
within the limits Elecraft sets for voltage.  If I am running low 
voltage on transmit, I goose the power supply slightly, staying below 
the max voltage rating Elecraft recommends when not transmitting at 
full power.


The fuse(s) is/are probably not going to protect my radio-- if 
something happens, (i.e., current draw in excess of 30 amps), the 
radio is probably already broken.


I use the fuse to reduce runaway thermal effects, (read that as fire), 
on my power supply wiring in the event of a short to ground.  I place 
the fuse(s) as close to the power supply as my wiring will allow.




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Re: [Elecraft] denatured alcohol vs. Everclear

[Don Wilhelm]

Here, the XYL uses  cheap 80 proof Vodka to 'awake' vanilla bean seeds.  
She has a bunch of vanilla beans and when soaked in alcohol for about 2 
months (shaken every day), it makes vanilla extract.
She was doing commercial baking when she acquired the vanilla beans 
because it was MUCH less expensive than purchasing vanilla extract from 
the store.
When she quit baking, she had left over beans, so we have lots of 
vanilla extract on hand.


OK, back to the subject at hand, I used to use 190 proof Everclear for 
cleaning boards - still applied only as necessary and with a q-tip in 
the area to be cleaned, blot with a paper towel.  But I can no longer 
get that strength in the local liquor store, they only sell 180 proof 
(don't want to travel to South Caroline just to get some).  So I use 
other sources of alcohol.  Whatever dissolves the flux buildup does the 
job.  If you are very careful, you can use acetone, but it will melt 
silkscreening and get under components if it gets to the top of the 
board - apply only with a q-tip in the area of concern on the bottom of 
the board.
I had one repair here where the customer used something for flux 
removal.  It got under ICs and relays and caused multiple leakage 
paths.  I was about to declare it non-repairable, but he was willing to 
pay the cost of lifting components and cleaning.


Remember that rosin flux is non-conductive until it is mixed with a 
"flux cleaner" - use only in a specific area (do not flood the board), 
and dry the area after application.  Make certain ALL the flux was 
removed from the area - if there is any residue, it can be conductive, 
leading to leakage paths.  Let it dry and look for 'whitish' stuff.  If 
there is any, you have not done a complete job.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/17/2021 6:15 PM, Paul Van Dyke wrote:

Correct ... and the one your ladies know  SD-40  alcohol  used in my field
= Perfume
And a world favorite - Vodka, that was used to make perfume and clean
parts, Hic..and other things
73 ..needin a chair
Paul KB9AVO

On Sat, Jul 17, 2021 at 3:49 PM David Christ  wrote:


I’ll try to introduce some accuracy here. There are three common kinds of
alcohol

Methanol CH3OH also known as wood alcohol.  Poisonous by its very nature
so needs no additives to make it undrinkable, Mainly used as a feedstock
for making other chemicals.

Ethanol CH3CH2OH  This is the stuff in alcoholic beverages.  Everclear is
available as 95% ethanol.  Because it is drinkable additives are used
“denature” to make it undrinkable.  This is the alcohol commonly added to
gasoline.

Isopropanol  CH3CHOHCH3  This is the alcohol normally found in rubbing
alcohol. It is also used in hand sanitizer.  It is toxic and can be
absorbed through the skin so caution is advised when applying isopropanol
solutions to the skin.

Alcohol absorbs water so is used in “gasoline dryer” products.  Yellow
Heet contains methanol.  Red Heet contains isopropanol.

This information courtesy of Wikipedia which contains much more

David K0LUM


On Jul 17, 2021, at 1:40 PM, Steve Hall <99sun...@gmail.com> wrote:

John NI0K,
Keep in mind that denatured alcohol and Everclear are absolutely two
different products.
Denatured or wood alcohol is most poisonous.  Whereas Everclear is grain
alcohol and can be consumed, (in moderation.)
Steve
WM6P

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Re: [Elecraft] Broke my K2 :(

[Don Wilhelm]

When I have cleaned boards with IPA or other cleaners, I apply the IPA 
only in a small spot with a q-tip and then blot it with a paper towel to 
help dry it - do not flood the board.
I generally do not recommend cleaning boards, solder flux is 
non-conductive and will normally not cause a problem.
I only clean when the solder flux residue is really nasty as might occur 
with Kester 44 solder.
Use of a solder with a mildly reactive flux (Kester 385) will reduce the 
need for cleaning the board - there is almost no residue.


If you do choose to clean the board, make sure your cleaning work is 
complete.  While solder flux is non-conductive, the flux plus the 
cleaner may be conductive leading to resistive leakage paths. If you can 
see any white stuff on the board, you have not done a complete job.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/14/2021 6:41 PM, Peter Eijlander (PA0PJE) wrote:

Yes Jerry, isopropyl alcohol does this!
I once cleaned a working print of a GPS receiver with isopropyl 
alcohol and it stopped working. Letting it be and trying it again next 
day turned out it worked perfectly again.


 From then on I leave a PCB to rest after cleaning to have the IPA dry 
out completely...




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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 ANT1 problem

[Don Wilhelm]

And discard those "Amazon Special" PL-259s. Use only quality 
connectors.  It is not worth it to use off-spec connectors - you are 
witness to the pain and heartache they can cause.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/11/2021 4:52 PM, Dave wrote:
If it were me, I'd replace the SO-239 on the tuner...  That way, you 
know the issue won't come back to haunt you later.


73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist, RFI
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 7/11/21 1:48 PM, kd...@frawg.org wrote:

Many thanks to Ken (K6MR), Joe (4X1RV), and Kirk (K6KAR) for your quick
answers and for providing the schematic information.
I pulled the unit and did some poke and prod testing with a DVM here 
on the

anti-static mat. My fear was that K18 had a bad contact in the ANT1
position. -Not!-
What had apparently happened was that I had a batch of the offshore made
"Amazon Special" PL-259s that appear to have a slightly oversize 
center pin.

The patch cable used until recently had one of them on one end. It had
spread the leaves on the ANT1 SO259 just enough that a good 
connector, when
perfectly centered and seated, did not make contact! Gentle 
recentering of

the leaves with a miniature flat blade screw drive yielded relief and a
self-administered head smack.
Jack Spitznagel - KD4IZ
Science River LLC
Biomedical Consulting Services



-Original Message-
From: kirk.hard...@k6kar.com 
Sent: Sunday, July 11, 2021 14:07
To: kd...@frawg.org
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] KAT500 ANT1 problem

Jack,

The KAT500 schematic is on line (partial)
https://www.qsl.net/wb4kdi/Elecraft/KAT500/KAT500_RevA_page1.png
https://www.qsl.net/wb4kdi/Elecraft/KAT500/KAT500_RevA_page2.png
https://www.qsl.net/wb4kdi/Elecraft/KAT500/KAT500_RevA_page5.png
  Although all schematics aren't available, this may be enough to get 
you

going.

73,

Kirk, K6KAR

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
 On

Behalf Of kd...@frawg.org
Sent: Sunday, July 11, 2021 12:38 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Cc: 'Elecraft Support' 
Subject: [Elecraft] KAT500 ANT1 problem

All,


This is likely something very straight forward, but I do not have a
schematic to follow and troubleshoot.

Symptom: ANT 1 circuit seems to be dead. No match and fault on switch 
from

ANT2 to ANT1. No receive signal.

Tests:

Took KAT500 out of line to by-pass tuner, antenna on ANT1 is OK and will
match normally with rig's internal ATU.

With KAT500 back in line, selected each tuning position (AUTO, MAN, 
BYP) no

difference

With KAT500 still in line, ANT2 and ANT3 work nominally.

Checks:

Reset to factory defaults, restored last working Configuration, no 
change in

above behavior.


If I was a betting guy, I'd guess a relay or switching diode was open,
however - no schematic, don't really know.

Did I miss something



Does this little beastie need to go back to the mothership?


Thanks,

Jack Spitznagel - KD4IZ

Science River LLC

Biomedical Consulting Services



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delivered to kirk.hard...@k6kar.com


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Re: [Elecraft] Chasing paddles around desk top

[Don Wilhelm]

Have any of you with key chasing problems tried putting the key on a 
piece of a mouse pad?  Don't be afraid to cut it, it is an inexpensive 
solution (sometimes free).
I use a key with a very heavy base (Tony Baleno key) and do not have a 
problem even though I am a 'slap paddles' type.
Try the mouse pad right side up and 'wrong side up' and see what 
happens.  I have the spacing on Tony's single lever paddle set quite 
close and have no problems with it even when slapping the paddle.
With a lighter weight key, you can try it first with a full mouse pad, 
and the cut it only after you find it works.


I highly recommend Tony's keys if you are in the market for a quality 
set of paddles - they are not inexpensive, but quality counts a lot.  
The Begali keys are good too, but the keying grips are set too low for 
my tastes.  I progressed from a bug and like to do the 'wrist roll' when 
operating the paddles - that means I need to have the handle(s) about 
1.5 inches above the table.  Tony has several varieties of both single 
lever and dual lever paddles - he is a a quality machinist.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/8/2021 6:31 PM, Julia Tuttle wrote:

It doesn't leave residue -- I think it just leaves the rubber (or
whichever) cleaner than water or spit would, so there's less oil/dust/etc.
and the runner's natural tackiness can work.




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