EV digest 4760
, but Solar Challenge is fun to watch, should be a feature program on Discovery and the history of it for the History Channel.Hey! TV worth watching and putting on DVD's Passing them around! Seeya Bob ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- I was curious, if you advance the timing say 7 degrees will the top speed increase? I guess a way to test would be to operate at 12V and move the timing back and forth to find the highest speed. Thanks, Mark - Original Message - From: James Massey [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Sent: Friday, September 23, 2005 4:57 AM Subject: Re: Adjustable timing 8-inch motor - correction and photos At 01:45 AM 23/09/05 -0700, Doug Weathers wrote: In an attempt to make it up to you, I took some pictures and posted them on my website. Enjoy. http://learn-something.homedns.org:8100/static/galleries/variable- timing-motor/ Which didn't work because Doug put a space in where there wasn't one, this works: http://learn-something.homedns.org:8100/static/galleries/variable-timing-mo tor/ James ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Hi, Mark - the one I have is a little different than yours; the model number is CMM1000, but there is no model name that I can see. It has 2 12V batteries, hooked in series for 24V. They are lead/acid Yuasha (sp?), but I can't find an ah number on them. The charge connector is a 3-pin, similar to a computer hard drive power connector. The mower is a rear-bagger, and the bag is in good shape. Supposedly the mower came with a mulcher kit and a side discharge adapter also, but of course I don't have the side discharge. Joseph H. Strubhar E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Web: www.gremcoinc.com - Original Message - From: Mark Fowler [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Sent: Friday, September 23, 2005 8:46 PM Subject: RE: Parts wanted or to sell Hi Joe, I got a BD battery mower just before last Christmas. A friend of mine found it on his postal delivery run. The lady who owned it was throwing it out because it wasn't working properly and a new BD battery was going to cost several hundred dollars. It sat at my friend's house for a couple of months before he realised that he didn't have the time to fix it (he was building his house) so he gave it to me. Anyway, I cleaned the crap out of it and polished up the contacts where the key goes in, and voila, a working battery mower. It has been working just fine for the past 10 months (on the battery that the original owner thought was dead :-) I've added a digital voltmeter and a 12v (cig lighter) charging socket to connect it to a little solar panel on the roof of my garden shed. One thing I have noticed is that the circuit board that has the original charging socket and a couple of LEDs has become rather corroded, and I've had to touch up a couple of traces with a soldering iron. So, Joe, tell us a little more about your mower. Mine is called a Stealth, runs on 12V, and has a 38Ah 12V battery. The mains charger supplies 15V AC at 1.5A via what looks like the same standard barrel connector that just about every wall-wart power supply uses. Mark -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Joe Strubhar Sent: Saturday, 24 September 2005 12:29 PM To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List Subject: Parts wanted or to sell I got a Black Decker 19 cordless electric mower yesterday, and checked it out this morning. I need a charger and a motor - if that is going to cost too much, I'll part it out. Batteries seem to be good, and the control board is intact. Of course the handle assembly is OK. The motor is trashed - the magnets are all broken up, and the armature is ruined. The deck has a hole melted in it, although it can be repaired enough to work. Any one have the parts I need, or is anyone interested in what I have? Joseph H. Strubhar E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Web: www.gremcoinc.com ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Hey Mark Yes speed will increase as you advance but so do amps. So the ABR allows you to find a happy medium in relationship of your voltage, motor, and load. The higher the voltage the higher the need to time the brushes to prevent comm. arcing. You will lose some low end torque but will see more high end speed. Hope this helps Jim Husted Hi-Torque Electric Mark Hanson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I was curious, if you advance the timing say 7 degrees will the top speed increase? I guess a way to test would be to operate at 12V and move the timing back and forth to find the highest speed. Thanks, Mark - Original Message - From: James Massey To: Sent: Friday, September 23, 2005 4:57 AM Subject: Re: Adjustable timing 8-inch motor - correction and photos At 01:45 AM 23/09/05 -0700, Doug Weathers wrote: In an attempt to make it up to you, I took some pictures and posted them on my website. Enjoy. timing-motor/ Which didn't work because
EV digest 4761
EV Digest 4761 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Bradley EV by jerry dycus [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Re: Asking for witnesses (was: Which Nedra class? ) by Ken Trough [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Re: Peugeot 206 + 15kW Siemens (copy, with US units) by Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Re: Bradley EV by David Roden (Akron OH USA) [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Re: Siemens EV Motors by Shawn Rutledge [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Re: World Solar Challenge, Comments by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Re: Which Nedra class? by David Chapman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) Re: Siemens EV Motors by Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Re: World Solar Challenge, - Patents by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Re: Asking for witnesses (was: Which Nedra class? ) by Neon John [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Re: Siemens EV Motors by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Re: Adjustable timing 8-inch motor - correction and photos by Mark Thomasson [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) Re: White Zombie Electrifies PIR ...12.424 @ 103.57 mph! by Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Bought Tires, got a funny coupon in the mail. by Ricky Suiter [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Re: Which Nedra class? by Roderick Wilde [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) Battery pack circuit breakers by Kluge [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) RE: Battery pack circuit breakers by Phil Marino [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) Re: 87 s10 bought last nite at Speedworld by Ryan Stotts [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) Shortened drive motor by M.G. [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) Re: Which Nedra class? by damon henry [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- Hi Chris and All, Chris Buresh [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Is anyone familiar with the Bradley kit cars made in MN in the 70s? Yes. Did they make turnkey EV versions? Yes I've found one for sale and would like to know if the list has any historical knowledge of the quality and basic designs of these cars. It varies from very good to bad and depends on how well it was cared for as they are about 25-30 yrs old. But I have seen a couple very nice ones but check it out well before you buy. they are hard to get into and tend to leak unless well done. Melbourne High School, Fla has a very good one they display amoung others. HTH's, Jerry Dycus -- Chris Buresh St. Paul, MN - Yahoo! for Good Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort. ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- The problem is, the tale that Dennis is telling (to everyone that will listen) is a fabrication made of whole cloth. Please keep this personal beef off the EVDL! We already have a reputation as a community for infighting, and you are furthering that stereotype. This is an informational forum, not a soapbox for public attacks and accusations. Please keep this in PRIVATE EMAIL or feel free to vent in the soapbox forum that was set up for this kind of poo flinging: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/scootersoapbox -Ken Trough Admin - V is for Voltage Magazine http://visforvoltage.com AIM - ktrough FAX/voice message - 206-339-VOLT (8658) ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Osmo, 1LH5118 is synchronous PM motor, not induction one. While having the same power, peak torque may not be as much as for induction motors. If you get me basic specs on your 206, I'll simulate performance for you and can tell you exactly what it will be (for 18 kW induction motor) so you can estimate performance for 15 kW synchronous one. Victor Don Cameron wrote: Osmo, the New Beetle accelerates 0-50kmh in under 6 seconds on the flats. It weighs 1700kg loaded and has a Siemens 5133 that is 30kW nominal and 78kw peak, with the Simovert short controller. The New Beetle has reasonable acceleration up hills. If I could do it again, I would convert a lighter vehicle. Less power required for acceleration and hill climbing. When I was trying to determine a motor/controller combination for the New Beetle, Victor recommended the 5105WS12 which is a smaller 18kW rated motor. He indicated that any of the motors will put out the max power of the inverter. The larger size motor is needed for longer hills. I have two such particular hills in my area and am pleased with the combination I have purchased. Maybe Victor can comment. Don Victoria, BC, Canada See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/ -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Osmo Sarin Sent: September 24, 2005 1:16 AM To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Subject: Peugeot 206 + 15kW Siemens (copy, with US units) ...sorry I forgot to add US units. Here´s the message again: --- I´m planning
EV digest 4762
EV Digest 4762 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Bought Tires, got a funny coupon in the mail. by James Massey [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) S/P motor, was: RE: White Zombie... by James Massey [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Re: Shortened drive motor by James Massey [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Re: Bought Tires, got a funny coupon in the mail. by Ricky Suiter [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) The Effect of Polar Moment of Inertia by stU [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Re: 87 s10 bought last nite at Speedworld by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Question on Heibao EV by Jim Persky [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) nedra, Nedra , NEDRA by Steven Lough [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Re: Which Nedra class? by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Re: World Solar Challenge, Comments by Tony Godshall [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) THREE very QUICK E-Chairs - The Movie by Steven Lough [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Re: Shortened drive motor by Jim Husted [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) Fiat 500 conversion by Suhas Malghan [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Re: World Solar Challenge by Ryan Stotts [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Re: Which Nedra class? by Ryan Stotts [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) Re: THREE very QUICK E-Chairs - The Movie by Ryan Stotts [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) Re: Bought Tires, got a funny coupon in the mail. by Dave [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) Re: S/P motor, was: RE: White Zombie... by Dave [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) Re: S/P motor, was: RE: White Zombie... by Jim Husted [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) Wife's EV questions? by Stefano Landi [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) Re: S/P motor, was: RE: White Zombie... by Nick 'Sharkey' Moore [EMAIL PROTECTED] 22) We got the Sunrise !!! by jerry dycus [EMAIL PROTECTED] 23) Re: 87 s10 bought last nite at Speedworld by Jim Coate [EMAIL PROTECTED] 24) Re: Wife's EV questions? by Ryan Stotts [EMAIL PROTECTED] 25) Re: We got the Sunrise !!! by Ryan Stotts [EMAIL PROTECTED] 26) Re: We got the Sunrise !!! by Rush [EMAIL PROTECTED] 27) Saturday Night's Zombie Drag Videos Up by John Wayland [EMAIL PROTECTED] 28) Re: We got the Sunrise !!! by Bob Rice [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- At 01:53 PM 26/09/05 -0700, Ricky wrote: So my Saturn conversion had the tires which had been on it for several years. They were weather cracked, so they had maybe 30 miles put on them before I promptly had them recycled and fresh rubber put on. I took it to the Goodyear store where I kind of know the people there, which afforded me a 10% discount! So today I got this in the mail and found it rather hillarious. http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/ricksuiter/album?.dir=/5db6 I'm sure they send this to all of their customers. Take them up un the offer! At least you should get a laugh (take a video camera, might win funniest videos). (for those who didn't click the link - free lube, oil and filter coupon..) James ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- At 09:29 AM 26/09/05 -0500, Dennis Pestka wrote: Can a S/P setup be done with 1 Motor ? Not really (try putting a piece of wire in series with itself). But the S/P control could be used to pull in field weakening on a single motor. Or run a shunt motor, using a fixed field in two steps and a Zilla in the armature. Someone suggested P/S a battery pack, but that would be ... unhealthy, to say the least - massive inrush currents to the controller, have to precharge again for the doubled voltage. James ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- At 05:51 PM 26/09/05 -0400, Mike G wrote: Jim, I like your ideas. This has stirred a thought in my head If I eliminate the internal fan in my motor I could shorten the housing accordingly. The only problem I see with this is the holes that were the outlet for the fan before will be eliminated. So I would drill some new holes to let the air out to cool the motor. Would I be screwing up the magnetic lines of force from the fields if I were to drill holes in the case between the field windings. Thanks for any input. Hi Mike I'm not Jim, but my motor had no fan. I have fitted up a blower (in at the brush end) and out through the end plate behind the flywheel and through vent holes in the bell housing. I had a complete new end plate made, which did double-duty of end plate and bell housing adaptor. I've placed a picture of my motor in pieces at: http://jcmassey.gallery.netspace.net.au/Daihatsu-pics-01/Image_093 The machinist (who also builds race cars in his spare time) put 9 holes around - presumably to reduce the fatigue risks. James ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Well, that wouldn't work because when I took it there to get the tires put on it was dead and after I said I had to show whoever was pulling it in how to turn it on and drive it I had the whole shop over there with the hood poped and me explaining how it worked. Maybe I can find a
EV digest 4763
this gives me time to complete the project before next year. My goal is to have a daily commuter (13 miles each way, may be able to charge at work) that I would probably ride only in good weather, floodeds or AGMs probably, must go 40mph (freeway capable nice but not required), 48-72 volts I think, probably contactor controller at first then move to Altrax, motor TBD. I would appreciate any advice on what to look for in my search. These are the things I can think of: * Clear title * Working brakes * Working electrical * Little if any rust/dents * Transmission type (not sure what is best or if it matters) * Larger frame is better (for space for batteries and motor) * Specific manufacturer? (not familiar with motocycles at all) * Other? Thanks in advance for your help. -- Mark ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- You may be able to incorporate some ideas from this fellow. He uses separate strings and swaps them in or out with a computer-controlled mosfet controller, acting like a really fast (kHz) contactor controller rather than PWM. The device monitors each string and drops out the lowest voltage string and swaps in the highest-voltage resting string on the fly to ensure even discharge, and adds or takes aways strings based on throttle position. See http://www.redrok.com/ev.htm#batpack (towards the bottom). MOSFET modules that can handle 200V and 580 amps cost $281 for a three-pack. See http://www.ixys.com/l410.pdf for the data sheet. I lost the link for the vendor, but you could probably find a dealer through the manufacturer. -Tim S. - Original Message - From: Tom Watson [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2005 12:54 AM Subject: Ev state of charge display? hi people I have been thinking about this for a while after seeing all the posts on yhe problems with metering the state of charge of a ev battery pack. I wonder if, other than the added cost, if a 1/4 split battery pack might give a more secure feeling to the driver... arrange your pack into say... 4 30ah packs (I know ... smaller batteries and more connections) and have a shifter and display indicating full charge for each which switches off when used up to 80% discharge ... then shift to the next... you'd end up with 3 rested packs to allow a small reserve capicity. any of you have any thoughts on this scheme? am I completely out to lunch? Tom __ Find your next car at http://autos.yahoo.ca -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.6/111 - Release Date: 9/23/05 ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- I got my S-10 back together after replacing some poor wiring, the motor, dc/dc converter and the batteries. I was taking it for the second test drive when bang. After getting over to the side of the road I discovered one of the batteries had blown up. (I have pictures if you're interested) The battery that blew is a Trojan 6 volt, part of a 120 volt pack, the last in the string of the smaller rack, fused, with an aluminum connection to the steel connection to the fuse. The post melted and so did part of the cap. While taking my $65, the guy at the battery place told me that the cause was a bad connection. Assuming that I tightened the connection down to the post, I am wondering if the post got hot cause of the fuse (the fuse did not blow) or maybe the aluminum connection to the steel connection to the fuse or maybe the long lead to the other rack. I'm thinking of making up a new cable and skipping the fuse. Any comments would be helpful. Thanks Joe ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Are you _absolutely_ certain that there was water in the batteries to the proper level? My understanding is that this is the most common reason for batteries to explode. Your fuse is not the reason; make sure it's wired in at all times. --- ohnojoe [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I got my S-10 back together after replacing some poor wiring, the motor, dc/dc converter and the batteries. I was taking it for the second test drive when bang. After getting over to the side of the road I discovered one of the batteries had blown up. (I have pictures if you're interested) The battery that blew is a Trojan 6 volt, part of a 120 volt pack, the last in the string of the smaller rack, fused, with an aluminum connection to the steel connection to the fuse. The post melted and so did part of the cap. While taking my $65, the guy at the battery place told me that the cause was a bad connection. Assuming that I tightened the connection down to the post, I am wondering if the post got hot cause of the fuse (the fuse did not blow) or maybe the aluminum connection to the steel connection to the fuse or maybe the long lead to the other rack. I'm thinking of making up a new cable and skipping the fuse
EV digest 4764
connections after one mile run. Yes, I miss one connection, I did not torque. I tighten first with a insulated ratchet, but I skip over that one when I torque them with a insulated inch lb. torque wrench. A technical collage in my area had a post melted off, but with no explosion. They had floor sweeper batteries that uses a bolt thru connection that keep melting the post flat. They only hand tighten them. We have become too used to just hand tighten are 12 volt ICE batteries and let it go for five years with out looking at it. When you install a new set of batteries and/or new connections, find out what the recommended torque of the battery connection to be. My Trojan T-145's which are a stud type pad recommends 95 to 105 inch lbs. Other Trojan post type connections are from 65 to 75 inch lbs. The stud type connection is a poor connection that does not allow enough contact area. So I install a larger heavy duty post and wrap around post connection. The 95 to 105 inch lbs stud type, cause too much shrink back of the lead surface to the terminal lug and cause the stud to pull out, making it lose and than increase resistance, heat, and than melting. If I have torque new connections several days ago, but did not run the EV yet, I double check the torque again the day I will do my first test run. I find that batteries seating several days without running, the connection torque will lose 5 to 10 inch lbs using the stud type and about 1 to 5 inch lbs using the standard brass post connector. If you are a lone person doing this work, than you have to verified yourself or check your work out. If there is two persons on a project, one person does the work, and a second person checks you work. This is a normal practice in electrical installation in a factory and field work where one co-worker will recheck the work and than a quality control inspector check the work, plus check again by another inspector. I than make a 2 mile run, which is my first daily run making four stops. I than will re-torque the battery connectors again. After 5 mile run, recheck them, and after 10 mile run, recheck them again. You will fine that the lead contact area will lose torque cause by shrink back about every time. You will notice that the torque value will loss very little after several runs. Than you do a terminal torque test every two weeks or even once a month, if you do normal driving under 100 amps, sooner if you doing a lot of over 100 amps. If you do drag racing, than the connections should be check after each run. I am now using very heavy duty plated brass post connections, the inside diameter of the post connection are 7/8 inch diameter that can be spread to about 1-inch. I used the same size for the positive and negative post. I install the larger post myself using a large heavy duty post molds and a very hard battery lead. Roland - Original Message - From: ohnojoemailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edumailto:ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2005 6:32 AM Subject: battery explosion I got my S-10 back together after replacing some poor wiring, the motor, dc/dc converter and the batteries. I was taking it for the second test drive when bang. After getting over to the side of the road I discovered one of the batteries had blown up. (I have pictures if you're interested) The battery that blew is a Trojan 6 volt, part of a 120 volt pack, the last in the string of the smaller rack, fused, with an aluminum connection to the steel connection to the fuse. The post melted and so did part of the cap. While taking my $65, the guy at the battery place told me that the cause was a bad connection. Assuming that I tightened the connection down to the post, I am wondering if the post got hot cause of the fuse (the fuse did not blow) or maybe the aluminum connection to the steel connection to the fuse or maybe the long lead to the other rack. I'm thinking of making up a new cable and skipping the fuse. Any comments would be helpful. Thanks Joe ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Tom, As I understand your post, you are proposing draining each sub pack individually. Batteries deliver their rated capacity at a specified discharge rate, and deliver increasingly less at higher discharge rates. Consequently the sub-pack strategy means much higher discharge rates for each sub-pack and much lower capacity. You would have a better idea what you've got left in the tank but overall your range and battery life would suffer considerably. Bottom line, if you've got 'em on board, you should let 'em share the work. Carl Clifford Denver Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 00:54:49 -0400 (EDT) From: Tom Watson [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Ev state of charge display? To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List ev@listproc.sjsu.edu MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text
EV digest 4765
EV Digest 4765 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Another NEDRA rule question by Tim Humphrey [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) RE: World Solar Challenge by Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Re: Another NEDRA rule question by Roderick Wilde [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Re: Which Nedra class? Last posting ...Comments by Bob Rice [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) RE: World Solar Challenge by David Roden [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) RE: World Solar Challenge by David Dymaxion [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Re: We got the Sunrise !!! by Paul G. [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) RE: battery explosion by TiM M [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Re: Advice on getting motocycle glider for an EV by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Re: Wife's EV questions? by David Dymaxion [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Unibody (was RE: We got the Sunrise !!!) by Don Cameron [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Capacitor Drag Racing Idea by David Dymaxion [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) Solar Trailer? by Mark Hastings [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Re: White Zombie Electrifies PIR ...12.424 @ 103.57 mph! by Rich Rudman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Re: Asking for witnesses (was: Which Nedra class? ) by Rich Rudman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) EV Donor car available by Tom Hudson [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) Re: Advice on getting motocycle glider for an EV by damon henry [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) Re: Siemens EV Motors by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) Re: ThunderSky Self-Discharge by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) Re: World Solar Challenge by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) Re: World Solar Challenge by Danny Miller [EMAIL PROTECTED] 22) Re: PIR 100 mph Club by David (Battery Boy) Hawkins [EMAIL PROTECTED] 23) Re: ThunderSky Self-Discharge by Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- Is John's Siamese 8 one motor or two? I say it's one motor. Why do I ask? Because Electric Jr Dragsters are limited to one motor. Not that I'm thinking of needing more than one, but it's nice to know. Stay Charged! Hump ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Probably not, but I ask this: why are so few EVers at all interested in integrating solar arrays into the bodies, or at least the roof, of their car conversions? That's easy. Relative to a solar car, conversions require a lot of energy to move. THey don't have a lot of flat area and what they do have is generally not optimally positioned for solar charging. Net result is that if you covered the useable area on a conversion with solar cells, you'd collect enough energy in a day for one, /maybe/ two miles. It's simply not worth the time and effort. And do it for the free solar recharging and free EV advertising while at work: 500watts*5 solar hours: 2.5kwh/daythat's good for 10 miles of driving at 250wh/mile. Just out of curiousity, have you actually experimented with solar cells? You can get maybe 150 whrs per square meter, at high noon, in Arizona, during the middle of summer, with cool cells. And that is with the panel pointing directly at the sun. Sure high efficiency cells will give you a bit more, at geometrically higher price. Once the cells heat up, aren't pointing directly at the sun, the sun moves from directly overhead, etc. etc. etc. the power drops off. How are you going to keep the cells pointing directly at the sun? Park on a hill and move the car every 1/2 hour? Or make all the panels lift off the roof and rotate? Neither solution is all that practical for a daily driver. I'm sure it's solveable, but I can't think of any solution that doesn't cost a fortune, and/or add a significant amount of weight drag. In real life, getting 2.5 kwh per day is going to require a lot more area than is available on most conversions. THe ones that DO have enough area, are going to require more than 250 W/mile. -- If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has 4 lines of legalistic junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long legalistic signature is void. ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Hi Hump, This is only my opinion, the final decision would come from our tech director but I would feel that since it is on a single armature shaft and there is no coupling I would personally call it a single custom made motor with two commutators. Roderick Wilde - Original Message - From: Tim Humphrey [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2005 8:36 AM Subject: Another NEDRA rule question Is John's Siamese 8 one motor or two? I say it's one motor. Why do I ask? Because Electric Jr Dragsters are limited to one motor. Not that I'm thinking of needing more than one, but it's nice to know. Stay Charged! Hump -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.344 / Virus
EV digest 4766
EV Digest 4766 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: ThunderSky Self-Discharge by Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Re: Siemens EV Motors by Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Re: World Solar Challenge by Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Re: Solar Trailer? by Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) building from scratch by brian baumel [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Re: Solar Trailer? by Mark Hastings [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Apology, was Re: Which Nedra class? by David Chapman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) Re: Capacitor Drag Racing Idea by Mark Dodrill [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) RE: building from scratch by Don Cameron [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Re: Advice on getting motocycle glider for an EV by Roy LeMeur [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Re: building from scratch by Ray Brooks [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Re: Capacitor Drag Racing Idea by David Dymaxion [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) Re: Apology, was Re: Which Nedra class? by Roderick Wilde [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Re: Capacitor Drag Racing Idea by Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) From David Cloud, Please Post this on EVDL for me --- THANKS! by Roderick Wilde [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) Re: Composite monocoque was-Unibody (was RE: We got the Sunrise !!!) by jerry dycus [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) RE: Composite monocoque vs. sand buggy by stU [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) Re: Capacitor Drag Racing Idea by Danny Miller [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) Re: World Solar Challenge by M Bianchi [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- Lee Hart wrote: Beware: Do not let them discharge too deeply! They will be permanently damaged if they go below about 2.5v! In general, good advise, but the cells has ben known to recover from near zero volts on them (after deep self-discharge, not under load). -- Victor '91 ACRX - something different ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Lee Hart wrote: Ah well. We have to take it to a shop and have it rewound for 115vac. This means using half the turns of twice the wire size. This is a straightforward operation; motor shops do this sort of thing all the time, so it won't be all that expensive. Rewinding isn't expensive. What also makes Siemens motors expensive is integrating cooling tubes into the stator windings, make it all leak proof. Can you find me any industrial 60 hz liquid cooled motor small enough to be usable in an EV? -- Victor '91 ACRX - something different ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- That said, I'm a bit worried that the solar racers focus too much on racing and not enough on solar. Too much competition and focus on winning -- no matter what it costs. And too little innovation and experimentation. The cars are basically the same; same solar cells, same motors, same controllers, same batteries, same tires. Nearly all the teams just buy these parts; they didn't design or build them. There isn't much innovation going on. Well, I believe this is because the race directors stiffle all the creativity. THey have an idea of what 'they' think is the perfect solar race car and if someone comes up with an idea that deviates to far from that, they outlaw the design for the next race. For example, a while back some realized that all of that surface area needed for the solar panels was really a drag (literally) so they made their array fold up and stored it inside a narrow streamlined car while it was moving, and unfolded it for charging. Pretty inovative, huh? Naturally they outlawed that by making a requirement that the solar cells have to be exposed to sunshine while driving. So our intreped inovators built a narrow body out of clear plastic. Hey the cells are exposed to sunshine, they don't generate much power all folded up, but it was an inovative solution, right? So they changed the rules again to prevent that. So solar raycing isn't about inovation any more, it's about building a vehicle that most closely matches the design the race directors have in mind. Naturally all of the cars are starting to look the same, it's what the directors want. Or, look for ways to build a *practical* solar-powered vehicle that you really can drive to work. Joel Davidson, a PV pioneer, built a Personally, I think the inovators with the banned ideas were on the right track. It might be practical to have a solar car, for comuting, that carries it's own array, if the array folds up and stows inside and deploys easily. You could even have a sun tracking system. Of course a fixed solar installation everywhere you park your car would be an even better idea, but I don't forsee that anytime in the near future. solar-powered recumbent trike many years ago, and used it for routine commuting. It was a PV/pedal hybrid -- no batteries! Or maybe you could build an NEV that was entirely solar powered. Either way, instead of something you can drive once in a
EV digest 4767
EV Digest 4767 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Composite monocoque was-Unibody (was RE: We got the Sunrise !!!) by Phil Marino [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Re: Capacitor Drag Racing Idea by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Re: EV Donor car available (Saturn) by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) RE: battery explosion by Adams, Lynn [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Re: Capacitor Drag Racing Idea by Ken Trough [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Re: Composite monocoque vs. sand buggy by Shawn Rutledge [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Financing a conversion? by Alan Batie [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) RE: EV Donor car available (Saturn) by Matthew D. Graham [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Trying to fix Pack Ground and Russco Problem. by Mark Hastings [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Re: Capacitor Drag Racing Idea by Danny Miller [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Re: Siemens EV Motors by Ryan Stotts [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) RE: Composite monocoque vs. sand buggy by stU [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) Re: White Zombie Electrifies PIR ...12.424 @ 103.57 mph! by Ryan Stotts [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) RE: Composite monocoque vs. sand buggy by Don Cameron [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Why solar cells are hard to get right now by Kluge [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) Re: Capacitor Drag Racing Idea by Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) Re: Capacitor Drag Racing Idea by Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) Re: Capacitor Drag Racing Idea by Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) Re: Siemens EV Motors by Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) Re: Financing a conversion? by Bob Bath [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) Re: EV Donor car available (Saturn) by Ricky Suiter [EMAIL PROTECTED] 22) Use of Photovoltaics for EVs by djsharpe [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- From: jerry dycus [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Subject: Re: Composite monocoque was-Unibody (was RE: We got the Sunrise !!!) Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 13:38:23 -0700 (PDT) Hi Don and All, Well said as moncoque/ unibody is not new at all as I've used in it boats for yrs too prefering to put the weight in the skin rather than frames/thinner skin saving much labor, interior room with better puncture resistance, less overall weight. The only difference in my Freedom EV, the future Sunrise or Ferrari's is doing it in composites for cars. I expect in 10 yrs, it will be much more common as a SUV could be built in 2,000 lbs that way. You're probably right, Jerry - but not many would buy a 2000 lb SUV. People buy SUVs because thay like to have 8000 pounds of steel around them, not because they are concerned about mileage or usefulness. ( As well as an attempt to compensate for certain inadequate body parts : - ). Phil _ On the road to retirement? Check out MSN Life Events for advice on how to get there! http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=Retirement ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Victor, what kind of capacitors did you used? I been looking at ESMA Asymmetric Supercapacitors, which are suppose to have a long discharge time. Unlike standard capacitors where both electrodes are the same, these capacitors have two different electrodes in a electrolyte of potassium hydroxide (KOH). Works like a battery, but can be charge very fast at a high ampere. Will vent like a battery and can be refill with water like a battery. Suppose to have over 500,000 charges/discharge cycles. If this is true, than this would be the life of the EV and or the EV'er! I suppose it would being like buying a house. Roland - Original Message - From: Danny Millermailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edumailto:ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2005 3:03 PM Subject: Re: Capacitor Drag Racing Idea Is that video available on the Web somewhere? If not please put it up, I have some friends I'm sure would get a kick out of knowing it's running on capacitors. Danny Victor Tikhonov wrote: I charged the bank to 370V rolled to the strip using cap's power, burn tires for perhaps 10 sec or so (I have video I can time) and run back to park on remaining energy. Turn out I haven't spent even half of it: The voltage was down to about 270V by the time I was done. ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- From my perspective the Saturn is one of the worst cars I can imagine for a conversion. Yes there have been a few of them done. My daughter had a 97 SL2 model and it was the most horrible car I have ever had to deal with! 1. Brakes are possibly the the most puny on the face of the earth! Tiny drums on the back, Tiny pads and rotors on the front. In short, they were trying to save money. My daughter had one, it continually
EV digest 4768
EV Digest 4768 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: battery explosion by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Re: Siemens EV Motors by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Re: Trying to fix Pack Ground and Russco Problem. by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Re: Composite monocoque vs. sand buggy by jerry dycus [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Re: Siemens EV Motors by Nick 'Sharkey' Moore [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Saturn's Rollin... really this time! by Victor Reppeto [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Brake booster test by Jeff Shanab [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) RE: Can batteries be mounted up front ahead of the bumper? by Michael Hurley [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Sydney EV meeting by Claudio Natoli [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Re: Scratch Building a Car ( was RE: Can batteries be mounted up front ahead of the bumper? ) by Michael Hurley [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Re: Capacitor Drag Racing Idea by Tom Erekson [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Re: Trying to fix Pack Ground and Russco Problem. by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) Re: World Solar Challenge.., question. by Bob Rice [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Re: Sydney EV meeting, Great! by Bob Rice [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Re: Which Nedra class? by Chris Brune [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) Vintage parts info wanted by pete sias [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) Re: Financing a conversion? by Alan Batie [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) Re: Trying to fix Pack Ground and Russco Problem and DC/DC issue by Chris Brune [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) Re: Financing a conversion? by Bob Bath [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) Re: World Solar Challenge by Nick 'Sharkey' Moore [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) have started ev by Tom Carpenter [EMAIL PROTECTED] 22) Re: Which Nedra class? by David Chapman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 23) Re: Financing a conversion? by David Chapman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 24) RE: EV Donor car available (Saturn) by David Roden (Akron OH USA) [EMAIL PROTECTED] 25) Re: Capacitor Drag Racing Idea by Danny Miller [EMAIL PROTECTED] 26) Re: Financing a conversion? by Neon John [EMAIL PROTECTED] 27) Re: Which Nedra class? by Roderick Wilde [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- - Original Message - From: Adams, Lynnmailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edumailto:ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2005 3:52 PM Subject: RE: battery explosion I've now around 35,000 miles using the stud posts torqued to 100 lbs and have not had any problems. I clean the terminals and retorque once a month. After a month of use (2000 miles), the torque on the studs is around 70 inch pounds. Lynn Hello Lynn, I must of got a bad batch of terminal studs on my T-145's. The Trojan WEB site said to torque these to from 95 to 105 In.Lbs. I started to torque them in 10 In.Lbs increments starting at 50 In.Lbs. When I got up to 90 In.Lbs, some of the studs bolt heads turned in the post. There is only a 1/16 inch of lead that was above these hex heads on the studs. I could pull most of them out by just pulling on the cable terminal lug. I call Trojan about this, and they told me this was the standard configuration on these pad type studs. I was surprise when the tech told me that this battery are not design for a street type electric vehicle using the low profile pad type terminals!! I had extra heavy higher post install on these batteries. I had Exide batteries that had a larger stud type terminal that had a L-shape head anchor deep into a very hard lead. I could torque these to 15 FT.LBS or 180 In.Lbs and had not trouble at all. Roland -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of TiM M Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2005 10:14 AM To: EV-List-Post Subject: RE: battery explosion Hey Joe, Did the battery actually explode, or did you blow a terminal off the top of the battery? This happened to me on my truck. The batteries were old and hadn't been properly cared for, they had universal terminals on them and the interconnects weren't the best. I knew all this when I bought it and was planning on addressing all these problems. Well the truck decided I was taking too long. I was pulling about 300 amps from a stop when I heard a bang and lost power. I coasted to a conveniently located parking spot and took a look. One battery in the middle of the pack had almost no post left. There was a scorch mark on the top of the battery box and little trails across the top of the rest of he batteries from the little balls of molten lead bouncing around. A dirty connection leads to resistance which causes heating, which causes higher resistance, which causes more heating... if it goes on long enough, bang! I
EV digest 4769
EV Digest 4769 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: World Solar Challenge by David Dymaxion [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Re: Capacitor Drag Racing Idea by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Re: Another NEDRA rule question by John Wayland [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) RE: World Solar Challenge by Myles Twete [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Re: Another NEDRA rule question by Joe Smalley [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Re: Financing a conversion? by Alan Batie [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Re: World Solar Challenge by Nick 'Sharkey' Moore [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) RE: Sydney EV meeting by Mark Fowler [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Re: Capacitor Drag Racing Idea by Danny Miller [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) RE: battery explosion by ohnojoe [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Re: Vintage parts info wanted by James Massey [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Re: S/P motor, was: RE: White Zombie... by James Massey [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) Re: Use of Photovoltaics for EVs by Evan Tuer [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Wanted - information on DC motor by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Wanted - EV Book by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) And Finally - Wanted GE EV-1B Control Card 5H9 or 6H9 by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) Re: Use of Photovoltaics for EVs by Meta Bus [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) RE: Solar Trailer? by Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3) [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) RE: building from scratch by Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3) [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) RE: Siemens EV Motors by Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3) [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) RE: Solar Trailer? by Robert Chew [EMAIL PROTECTED] 22) Re: World Solar Challenge.., question. by Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED] 23) Re: Advice on getting motorcycle glider for an EV by mreish [EMAIL PROTECTED] 24) RE: Wanted - information on DC motor by Robert Chew [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- Brent and Kent (Savethesaltflats@ aol.com, and http://www.savethesaltflats.com) want to do solar electric racing on the Salt Flats. Solar panels could also go on the underside of the car and catch reflected light. A twist on the idea I had: Allow the solar panels to also be used as sails. I have done the math, and it would be tough to power a practical car with solar panels. Boats, however, seem a perfect niche for solar panels. Many are operated on waterways with a 5 or 10 mph speed limit. Make a big solar array that doubles as a sail and you could really go. http://www.lightupthenet.com/2005/04/solar_powered_s.html --- Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: ... That said, I'm a bit worried that the solar racers focus too much on racing and not enough on solar. Too much competition and focus on winning -- no matter what it costs. And too little innovation and experimentation. The cars are basically the same; same solar cells, same motors, same controllers, same batteries, same tires. Nearly all the teams just buy these parts; they didn't design or build them. There isn't much innovation going on. ... __ Yahoo! for Good Donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort. http://store.yahoo.com/redcross-donate3/ ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Ok gang; here's another capacitor idea. The field of a series motor takes relatively little power -- like 1% of the total. Yet it has a big influence on the torque-speed curve of the motor. Normally, the field is directly in series with the armature, so both *must* have the same current. This produces the standard series motor characteristics we all know and love/hate; very high starting torque, but torque falls off very fast as speed increases. Field weakening has long been used to alter a series motor's characteristics. Shunt some of the current away with a resistor, and you weaken the field; the motor produces less torque per amp but runs faster. But what if you connected a CAPACITOR in parallel with the field? Because it's a low-voltage high-current winding, the capacitor would also have to be a low-voltage high-current part -- ideally suited to a supercapacitor. Let's assume a contactor controller, or PWM controller with a separate inductor so it's not depending on the field inductance. At any constant speed, motor performance is unchanged. The capacitor simply sits at whatever the voltage is across the series field. Now suppose you step on the throttle to double the voltage being applied to the motor. A normal series motor behaves like a resistor; 2x the voltage makes it draw 2x the current. You're now putting 4x the power into the motor; and so making 4x the horsepower. The rpm won't change instantly, so the torque goes up 4x. With that capacitor across the field, the field voltage and thus field current won't change. The fixed field current makes it behave like a PM motor; the armature voltage doubles, and the armature current will
EV digest 4771
EV Digest 4771 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) RE: building from scratch by Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3) [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) RE: Solar Trailer? by Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Re: Solar Trailer? by Mark Hastings [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Re: Solar Trailer? by Rush [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) RE: building from scratch by Don Cameron [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Battery or Generator Trailer by Mike Whiteley [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) RE: Solar Trailer? by Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) Re: Financing a conversion? by David Roden [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Re: Vintage parts info wanted by David Roden [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Re: Financing a conversion? by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Electric Vehicle: 4 passenger...just $2250 by David Chapman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Re: Use of Photovoltaics for EVs by Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) Ev state of charge display? by Tom Watson [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) RE: building from scratch by Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Re: Wanted - information on DC motor by David Chapman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) Re: Another NEDRA rule question by Rich Rudman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) Re: Electric Vehicle: 4 passenger...just $2250 by Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) Re: Capacitor Drag Racing Idea by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) Re: Siemens EV Motors by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) Re: Solar Trailer? by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) Re: Designing for safety (was Re: Composite monocoque vs. sand buggy by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 22) Re: Ev state of charge display? by Mark Farver [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- I would think that there are two clear advantages to a trike - less drag on tires and simplicity of function. The trike can use readily available harley rims for a belt drive setup and just about any width you could want. Plus brakes back there would have many options to choose from. What kind of front end are you planning? I would think a double wishbone setup would be pretty straightforward. You could use components from a mustang 2. They seem to be the choice for kit car manufacturers. Why only 72V? I guess if you wanted to use Trojan L16HC batteries 12 of them would only weigh 1476 pounds and give you a whole ton of AH capacity and 2000 cycles. Jody -Original Message- From: brian baumel [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, September 28, 2005 11:07 AM To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Subject: RE: building from scratch well our thoughts are to start the prototype with a direct drive motorcycle rear end (its going to be a trike) then after we've assessed the end result we'd upgrade to front wheel drive, since it would be more work. unless the groups general opinion is to start it with front wheel drive? 72V 6.7 series motor hooked to a rear differential. opinions? Regards, Brian --- Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3) [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Here is a thought I am just throwing out there - How about a dual motor setup using a transfer case in the front mounted sideways for the front two wheels and then a motor hooked directly to the differential in the back. You could have them controlled in series/parallel just like White Zombie but in a different configuration. You could have both run to get you up to speed but then shut one off (the rear or the front) when you were up to speed to save energy. Just a thought. Jody -Original Message- From: Ray Brooks [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2005 4:06 PM To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Subject: Re: building from scratch First you have to decide if you want it to be FWD, front motor - rear wheel drive, mid-motor or rear motor. Transverse motor or longitudinal ? Automatic trans, manual trans or no trans ? Once you have the basic layout designed in your head then you can put pencil to paper and start designing the frame and the jig to build the frame on. Then you acquire the tranny, and other running gear. The best way to assure that all the suspension works as needed is to copy the dimensions of the donor car. The easiest way is to use the A-arms and spindle assemblies from the same vehicle that all the rest of the drivetrain is taken from. Then you just make sure that all the A-arm mounts are in the same exact location in reference to one another and the ground and you then know that the geometry will be OK. I once built a dirt midget from the ground up and there is a lot of thinking and cogitating that goes on as the car takes shape. You end up with a chair on each side of the jig so that you can sit and visualize the build process and work out the design elements as you proceed. You need to write down a general order of assembly or you may find yourself having to unbuild things because you
EV digest 4772
EV Digest 4772 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Scratch Building a Car ( was RE: Can batteries be mounted up front ahead of the bumper? ) by Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Re: World Solar Challenge.., question. by Neon John [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) RE: Solar Trailer? by Tom Watson [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Re: Solar Trailer? by Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Re: World Solar Challenge.., question. by Evan Tuer [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Re: Electric Vehicle: 4 passenger...just $2250 by Christopher Robison [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Re: battery explosion by Neon John [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) Re: Advice on getting motocycle glider for an EV by Roy LeMeur [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Re: Battery or Generator Trailer by Neon John [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Re: Another NEDRA rule question by Neon John [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Re: World Solar Challenge.., question. by Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) RE: battery explosion by TiM M [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) RE: Solar Trailer? by Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Re: Solar Trailer? by Meta Bus [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Re: battery explosion, terminal connections by Jim Coate [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) Re: Designing for safety (was Re: Composite monocoque vs. sand buggy by Andre' Blanchard [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) Re: World Solar Challenge.., question. by Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) Newbie question. by John Luck Home [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) Re: battery explosion by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) Re: Solar Trailer? by Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) Re: battery explosion, terminal connections by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 22) Re: Designing for safety (was 'Re: Composite monocoque vs. sand buggy' by Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED] 23) Re: World Solar Challenge.., question. by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 24) Re: Solar Trailer? by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 25) Re: Newbie question. by Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED] 26) Re: Siemens EV Motors by Philippe Borges [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- At 12:53 PM -0700 on 9/25/05, Don Cameron wrote: As Jerry points out, this is not a chassis building forum. Largely people on this forum are converting cars, few are building them from the ground up. There are other, more suitable forums for scratch built cars. I disagree. This list is for discussing EVs, including building and driving them. Building chassis for EVs is definitely within bounds for this list. There might be other lists where you can gain valuable info on chassis design, but discussing them here is acceptable. I can't think of any place that is more appropriate for discussing chassis design, as it applies to EVs, than this list. -- If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has 4 lines of legalistic junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long legalistic signature is void. ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- On Wed, 28 Sep 2005 05:58:01 -0700 (MST), Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Easy, because by the time the cells are hot enough to heat water, they are too hot to produce electricity at maximum efficiency. The 'cool' temperature for PVs is less than 1/2 the temperature of the water circulating through a solar water heating panel. Water cooling PVs could work, but you'd want to use COLD water not HOT water. Of course there is the whole electric isolation issue to overcome, but that's doable. Well, not really if one works outside the box a little. One would have to accept cooler hot water but that's a reasonable compromise. 110 deg water is warm enough to bathe in and at that temperature most cells still perform adequately. That's colder than most solar water heaters work but still adequate if one uses a larger storage tank. In the long run, it's cheaper just to buy more panels instead of building a system to cool them. I'd look at the hot water as a practically freebie extra. John --- John De Armond See my website for my current email address http://www.johngsbbq.com Cleveland, Occupied TN ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Hi folks xantrex has a solar Charge Controller that provides 12 and 24 volts; http://www.xantrex.com/web/id/72/p/253/pt/25/product.asp I'm sure other makers have more voltage units. And, is there something wrong with using a diode to protect your batteries from trying to charge a low cell??? like they do with solar cells to keep them from trying to discharge your batteries. Tom - The problem that I saw with having the panels charge the pack directly is for one you would need to separate the batteries and assign one to each panel or wire all the panels in series to charge the
EV digest 4773
EV Digest 4773 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Siemens EV Motors by Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Re: Battery or Generator Trailer by David (Battery Boy) Hawkins [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Re: World Solar Challenge, Panel life by Mark Hanson [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) RE: Designing for safety (was 'Re: Composite monocoque vs. sand buggy' by stU [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Re: Battery or Generator Trailer by David Roden (Akron OH USA) [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Re: Newbie question. by Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Re: Newbie question. by John Luck Home [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) Re: battery explosion, terminal connections by Rich [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) RE: World Solar Challenge, Panel life by Robert Chew [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) RE: World Solar Challenge, Panel life by djsharpe [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Re: Capacitor Drag Racing Idea by Mark Thomasson [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Re: World Solar Challenge, Panel life by Danny Miller [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) S-10 Conversion Speed Sensor by Michaela Merz [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Shorter clip of Victors capacitor only burnout by Harris, Lawrence [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Re: S-10 Conversion Speed Sensor by Ricky Suiter [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) Re: Newbie question. by Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) RE: Wanted - information on DC motor by Victor Reppeto [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) Re: Shorter clip of Victors capacitor only burnout by Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) Re: Newbie question. by Nick 'Sharkey' Moore [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) Re: Newbie question. by Paul G. [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) Re: Electric Vehicle: 4 passenger...just $2250 by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 22) Rewinding a shunt motor: costs? by Chris Zach [EMAIL PROTECTED] 23) Re: Another NEDRA rule question single or dual motor by Jim Husted [EMAIL PROTECTED] 24) Re: Shorter clip of Victors capacitor only burnout by Danny Miller [EMAIL PROTECTED] 25) Re: Rewinding a shunt motor: costs? by Jim Husted [EMAIL PROTECTED] 26) Re: Designing for safety (was 'Re: Composite monocoque vs. sand buggy' by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 27) Blew up Diode bridge. by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 28) Re: Designing for safety (was 'Re: Composite monocoque vs. sand buggy' by Tim Stephenson [EMAIL PROTECTED] 29) Re: Solar Trailer? charge control by keith vansickle [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- Lee Hart wrote: Why does it need to be liquid cooled? Sure, it's nice; but it also adds a lot of expense. 99% of electric motors are not liquid cooled. I never said it *need* to be liquid cooled. I'm saying it is a big advantage that they happen to be liquid cooled, just like liquid cooled heat sink - we all know they are better for hi power electronics but most of the sinks are air cooled since the cost for them is a priority. So, yes, certainly you don't need to have water cooled motor in your EV in the same sense that you don't need to drive a Mercedes. While most indeed don't, many people do. Liquid cooled motors would be for those that do. It's a choice. -- Victor '91 ACRX - something different ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Mike, Welcome to the list. Yes, this has been discussed numerous times over the years, ad-nauseam! See my recent posts below and check the archives. BB Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 09:35:49 -0600 From: Mike Whiteley [EMAIL PROTECTED] I finally got up enough guts to post on this list. (This is my first post, please don't flame me. . lol ) This probably isn't a novel idea but as an effort to increase the range of EV's, would it really be that bad to have either: 1. A optional trailer packed with batteries, for extended range (just for those long trips) OR 2. A optional gas generator packed in a little trailer for really long trips. This would effectively make the EV more useful for everyone. The vehicle would run only on electricity most of the time but could use some gas for demanding long trips (even several hundred miles). It's as simple as hooking up a trailer (assuming the supporting electronics are in place). Please let me know if anyone does this, or if this has been hashed out before. Thanks. Mike Date: Sat, 10 Sep 2005 16:45:27 -0600 From: David (Battery Boy) Hawkins [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Another newby's take on racing snippage Off-topic range extenders: And speaking of trailers, someone recently asked about using a range extending generator with an EV. I've been using a 10kW propane genny while pulling a 4'x8' utility trailer to make a trip to the dump (no eelectricity available there!), and also for hauling equipment to an indoor winter BMX facility. For a 60 mile round trip I use less than one-half of two 20 pound propane tanks, or around
EV digest 4774
EV Digest 4774 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Designing for safety (was 'Re: Composite monocoque vs. sand buggy' by Ryan Stotts [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Re: Designing for safety (was 'Re: Composite monocoque vs. sand buggy' by Ryan Stotts [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) RE: Wanted - information on DC motor by Jim Husted [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Re: Newbie question. by Ryan Stotts [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) White Zombie blasts into the 12.2s by Roderick Wilde [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Battricide? Or are Orbitals tougher than that? by Ryan Bohm [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) White Zombie leaves the 12.2s in the tire smoke by Roderick Wilde [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) Re: White Zombie leaves the 12.2s in the tire smoke by Jim Husted [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Re: White Zombie blasts into the 12.2s by Roy LeMeur [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Re: White Zombie blasts into the 12.2s by Bob Rice [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Re: S-10 Conversion Speed Sensor by Tom Carpenter [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) White Zombie in the final round by Roderick Wilde [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) Re: White Zombie blasts into the 12.2s by Roderick Wilde [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) last Run of Zombie from track side by Rich Rudman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Re: Battricide? Or are Orbitals tougher than that? by Rich Rudman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) FS: 9 Evercel M100s, plus spare cells by Derrick J Brashear [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) Re: White Zombie in the final round by Roy LeMeur [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) Re: GEM-like but much better looking... by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) another Solectria Sunrise All Composite EV Car Body on ebay by Tom Watson [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) Re: Designing for safety (was 'Re: Composite monocoque vs. sand buggy' by David Dymaxion [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) Re: Blew up Diode bridge. by James Massey [EMAIL PROTECTED] 22) RE: Solar Trailer? by Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3) [EMAIL PROTECTED] 23) RE: Battery or Generator Trailer by Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3) [EMAIL PROTECTED] 24) Combining Fiberglass and Steel (was Re: Designing for safety) by Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED] 25) Re: Solar Trailer? charge control by Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED] 26) Re: Designing for safety (was 'Re: Composite monocoque vs. sand buggy' by Tim Stephenson [EMAIL PROTECTED] 27) RE: Solar Trailer? by Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3) [EMAIL PROTECTED] 28) RE: Solar Trailer? by Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3) [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- Peter wrote: Might not be the lightest, but it WILL be safe(r) and not much heavier. You can do a good steel roll cage in about 100 lbs give or take. Some details on a weld in, 6 point cage for a Mustang: Mild Steel, $289, weighs about 80-85lbs Chromoly, $415, weighs about 60-65lbs They also make bolt in versions. http://www.wolferacecraft.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=73 ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- stU wrote: Square or round, size and wall thickness? I'm thinking 1-1/2 square 0.125 wall. Scroll way down on this page to where it says Round Tube vs. Square Tube. Some VERY interesting info... http://www.factoryfive.com/table/ffrkits/roadster/specs/frame.html The frame on that page unbelievably weighs 350 lbs and the fiberglass body weighs 110 lbs.. ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Hey Victor your pretty close to me and in fact are probably not far off my weekly motor run route, as we come back over Santiam pass. What type of motor are you looking to obtain? Jim Husted Hi-Torque Electric Redmond OR. Victor Reppeto [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Steve, not really what you asked about but I was wondering if next time you are at your buddies motor shop, could you get me more info on the 14-18 motor that you were offered? Offlist reply would be fine. Thanks, David Chapman. I am still trying to sell an ICE car first but I am also interested in the details and prices of the motors you are/not considering. Thanx, Victor R. Salem, Or - Yahoo! for Good Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort. ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- John Luck Home wrote: I don't quite understand why we do not use fixed field magnet motors. Got any links to these motors? ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- This just in via John's cell phone at the PIR track in Portland, Oregon. White Zombie with Tim Brehm trying to hold on to the wheel just blasted into the 12.2s with a 12.275 second run at 104.78 mph. The 60 foot time was 1.629 seconds. The two previous runs were in the 12.3s. The Zombie is HOT tonight. 12.2s are textbook Viper times. Watch out all you over flexed Arnold cars, the Zombie is on the loose. Roderick Wilde Suck Amps EV Racing www.suckamps.com -- No virus found in this
EV digest 4775
EV Digest 4775 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) RE: S-10 Conversion Speed Sensor by Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3) [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Re: Combining Fiberglass and Steel (was Re: Designing for safety) by Evan Tuer [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Re: Combining Fiberglass and Steel (was Re: Designing for safety) by jerry dycus [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Re: another Solectria Sunrise All Composite EV Car Body on ebay And Controller software problems by jerry dycus [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) RE: Designing for safety (was 'Re: Composite monocoque vs. sand buggy' by stU [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) RE: Combining Fiberglass and Steel- resin and thermal expansion by Phil Marino [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Re: Designing for safety (was 'Re: Composite monocoque vs. sand buggy' by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) Re: Solar Trailer? charge control by keith vansickle [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Sidecar Rig by Aaron Askanase [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) RE: Solar Trailer? by Mark Hastings [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Re: Solar Trailer? by Rush [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Re: Combining Fiberglass and Steel- resin and thermal expansion by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) Re: battery explosion, terminal connections by Neon John [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Re: Solar Trailer? charge control by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Re: Battricide? Or are Orbitals tougher than that? by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) Re: battery explosion, terminal connections by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) Re: Blew up Diode bridge. by Michael A. Radtke [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) Re: S-10 Conversion Speed Sensor by Neon John [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) Re: Solar Trailer? by Neon John [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) RE: Solar Trailer? by Tom Watson [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) Variac brushes by rcboyd [EMAIL PROTECTED] 22) RE: Designing for safety (was 'Re: Composite monocoque vs. sand buggy' by Kevin Caldwell [EMAIL PROTECTED] 23) Is it really okay to expose motor to the elements by Eric Poulsen [EMAIL PROTECTED] 24) Re: Rewinding a shunt motor: costs? by Neon John [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- If I remember right the speed sensor is directly connected to the speedometer. You have to be sure though because in 95 GM switched speed sensors in the trucks. I think it is 2000 pulses per mph but I am going strictly from memory. If you want you can just get a ratio converter, they sell them in the JEGS catalog for about 100 bucks. If you do a google search for speedometer corrector you will find a USB programmable one that will allow you to change the speed by a percentage. -Original Message- From: Michaela Merz [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, September 28, 2005 2:49 PM To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Subject: S-10 Conversion Speed Sensor Hello Everybody: I've got an 120 V 95' S-10, convertion 2/3 done by somebody else (unfortunately deceased). While this person did a great job on the high voltage side, he kind of 'rigged' the 12 Volt side. Among other things, he installed a new speedometer and mounted it on the dash. I am currently rebuilding the 12 V side so that everything works as it is supposed to. However, the speedometer gives me a hard time. I connected the speed sensor input to the original speedometer, but it gives me unvalid speed readings (approx. 10 times the speed I am actually driving and going to 0 at actual speeds 15 mph). My question: On (1995's) S-10, is/was the speed sensor directly connected to the speedometer or via some internal computer (that has, unfortunately, been removed) ? What would be a prudent course of action to get the speedometer working again? Your insights are appreciated. Michaela ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- On 9/29/05, Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Anyone with experience working fiberglass AND knowledge of these properties care to respond? The Reliant cars do have some steel embedded in glassfibre. The seatbelt mounting supports for example. The main problems are that the steel becomes loose in the glassfibre (resin doesn't stick to it well?), then water / condensation gets to it, then it rots and is difficult to replace. I'd be interested to know the answer to the materials question too. ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Hi Peter and All, Even if it wasn't much difference in thermal expension like Lee has correctly stated, metal and fiberglass just to not work well together and do not stay attached from either thermal expansion or just normal road vibrations. So I would not try to mix them in a monocoque type structure. If you want to attach them, you must do it mechanicly, not by glueing unless you go to double sided tape or other adveasives that are designed to do that job. But laying up polyster/glass to metal
EV digest 4776
EV Digest 4776 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Is it really okay to expose motor to the elements by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Re: S-10 Conversion Speed Sensor by Michaela Merz [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Re: Another NEDRA rule question single or dual motor by David Chapman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Re: Designing for safety (was 'Re: Composite monocoque vs. sand buggy' by David Dymaxion [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Re: Question on Heibao EV by Edward Ang [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Re: Is it really okay to expose motor to the elements by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Re: Is it really okay to expose motor to the elements by Eric Poulsen [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) Re: Another NEDRA rule question single or dual motor by Ken Trough [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Re: Idea for Park by Eric Poulsen [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) RE: Designing for safety (was 'Re: Composite monocoque vs. sand buggy' by Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Re: Newbie question. by Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) RE: Battery or Generator Trailer by David (Battery Boy) Hawkins [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) Re: Solar Trailer? by Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) RE: Solar Trailer? by Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Re: Another NEDRA rule question single or dual motor by Jim Husted [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) RE: Combining Fiberglass and Steel (was Re: Designing for safety) by Kevin Caldwell [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) Re: Blew up Diode bridge. by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) [EMAIL PROTECTED]: Solectria Force cars for sale in New Jersey] by M Bianchi [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) Re: another Solectria Sunrise All Composite EV Car Body on ebay by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) Re: Newbie question. by Paul Compton [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) DIY GenSet was Re: Battery or Generator Trailer by Victor Reppeto [EMAIL PROTECTED] 22) Re: Blew up Diode bridge. by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 23) Re: S-10 Conversion Speed Sensor by Neon John [EMAIL PROTECTED] 24) Re: Sidecar Rig by Ken Trough [EMAIL PROTECTED] 25) Paging Wayland by Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- Eric Poulsen wrote: With many conversions, the motor is often located near the underside of the car. I've read here that you shouldn't worry too much about the motor, but is it really okay with getting wet/dirty? What happens when you hit a big puddle, and have direct splash onto the motor? Nothing, short term. Electric motors will work underwater. The problems are mainly long-term, from rust or corrosion, or dirt getting on the commutator or in the bearing so they wear out faster. -- Never doubt that the work of a small group of thoughtful, committed citizens can change the world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever has! -- Margaret Mead -- Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Hey John and others: Well, the speed sensor is currently connected to an external speedo that runs well. Only if I connect it to the integrated speedo, it gives me crab. And I was talking to an Chevy mechanic who told me, that the speed sensor runs through the PCM and from the PCM to the speedo. I don't know though, if that guy just wanted to sell me a 300$ replacement PCM. Question is: If I would have to use the PCM, is there any way to circumvent it short of completely rebuilding/replacing the integrated speedo? I am afraid that the stock speedo actually is just a meter and that the speedo electronics is actually integrated into the (missing) PCM. Michaela No computer involved. The variable reluctor sensor used for the speedo pickup generates a pulse whose amplitude is roughly proportional to the speed. The speedo usually has some sort of automatic gain control to accommodate the low voltage pulses at low speed. It is most likely that when the gain is up, the speedo is picking up interference from the motor controller. The first thing to do is to make sure the speedo wiring is located far away from any traction wiring. If that doesn't fix things then you should try running shielded twisted pair from the pickup to the speedo. If the problem is still there then you'll have to start looking for ground loops and/or tramp connections between the traction and 12 volt wiring. One other thing to check is to make sure your DC/DC converter isn't outputting trash onto the 12 volt side. John --- John De Armond See my website for my current email address http://www.johngsbbq.com Cleveland, Occupied TN ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Problem is Jim is that while you did Waylands motor (s) for essentially free, I doubt you can continue to do this, therefore what John D said about checkbook wars is valid. However, if you do want
EV digest 4777
EV Digest 4777 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Newbie question. by Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Re: Sidecar Rig by Ken Trough [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Re: battery explosion, terminal connections by Mark Grasser [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Re: Is it really okay to expose motor to the elements by Jim Husted [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) RE: Wanted - information on DC motor by Victor Reppeto [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) article: E-Solex from Pininfarina by Paul Wujek [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Proof of concept/alternatives by Jeff Shanab [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) Re: Blew up Diode bridge. by James Massey [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) RE: building from scratch by Michael Hurley [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) RE: ThunderSky Self-Discharge by Bill Dennis [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) White Zombie 12.15 run by Tim Brehm [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) RE: ThunderSky Self-Discharge by John G. Lussmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) Re: White Zombie 12.15 run by Tim Brehm [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Re: Is it really okay to expose motor to the elements by Dave [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Re: White Zombie 12.15 run by Jim Husted [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) RE: building from scratch by Don Cameron [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) RE: building from scratch by Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) RE: building from scratch by Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) RE: Combining Fiberglass and Steel (was Re: Designing for safety) by Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) RE: building from scratch by Michael Hurley [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) Re: Newbie question. by Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED] 22) RE: building from scratch by Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED] 23) Re: Variac brushes by James Massey [EMAIL PROTECTED] 24) Re: Variac brushes by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 25) Re: Is it really okay to expose motor to the elements by Bob Rice [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- Paul Compton wrote: Isn't is saying the same thing? -- Victor Of course not! I should have re-phrased my question. If Efficiency % + losses% are always 100% total (any efficiency loss is only contributed by losses increase) than the statement is valid. It was 40% efficient and we doubled the efficiency to 80%. Agreed. It was 40% efficient and we halved the losses, making the efficiency 70%. You mean, the 40% efficient means - 60% losses, We halved losses so they are 30% now (30% less). So efficiency is 40%+30%=70% now. Agreed, but what I meant by doubling eficiency is you gain as much (30%) as still needed to go to get to 100% (you need another 30%). So I instead of doubling efficiency should have said gain efficiency to a half way to have it 100%. My mistake. It was 90% efficient and we doubled the efficiency to 180%. (Who do you think you are, Tilley?) No, Doubling 90% efficiency results in 95% efficiency precisely because you halve the losses. It is not 90*2 math. In my definition it is going *exactly half more* way to the 100% The half between 90% and 100% is 95%. By doubling I meant going half way, sorry, mis-wording :-) and I realze error in expressing my definition. It was 90% efficient and we halved the losses, making the efficiency 95%. In my mind this is exactly the same as one above. I think we both understand the substance well. Thanks Paul. Paul Compton www.sciroccoev.co.uk www.morini-mania.co.uk www.compton.vispa.com/the_named -- Victor '91 ACRX - something different ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Has anyone built a electric side car rig? Vogel built an electric Harley with a biodiesel generator in the sidecar. Sorry, that should have been: http://vogelbilt.com -Ken Trough Admin - V is for Voltage Magazine http://visforvoltage.com AIM - ktrough FAX/voice message - 206-339-VOLT (8658) ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- You should be using large as possible bolts, BRASS ONES, and large copper washers. Nothing less. Mark Grasser On Wed, 28 Sep 2005 12:35:37 -0600, Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I don't know why Trojan is making battery post that way. My post was so soft, that they mushroom or keep squeezing smaller. Not like the Exide batteries I had before. I seen these L post on a EV, where the owner had them nearly squeeze flat. So make sure the post connection is a hard material. The L post will might work if you used a square saddle washer where the edges lip over the L post terminal edges to keep them from deforming. Even that doesn't work. L terminal lead creep is the single worst problem I've had with my GoBig scooter containing Hawkers. Tightening the terminals is an every-other-week chore. I've installed cut-down fender washers on both sides of each terminal to spread the load out as much as possible and still the damn things squish out. The combination of creep and the
EV digest 4778
EV Digest 4778 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Is it really okay to expose motor to the elements by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Re: Is it really okay to expose motor to the elements by Jim Coate [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) In the news on Lithium-Ion by Jeff Wilson [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Re: battery explosion, terminal connections by Neon John [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Re: Blew up Diode bridge. by Michael A. Radtke [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Torque, top end without trans, Freedom EV, RE: building from scratch by jerry dycus [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Motor Close Call (I hope) by Bill Dennis [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) Re: Motor Close Call (I hope) by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Re: Newbie question. by Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) fast charger by Evan Tuer [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Production Ford Ranger EV support group by Mark Farver [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Cloud EV Help Wanted by Roy LeMeur [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) Re: Production Ford Ranger EV support group by Bruce Weisenberger [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Supply by mike golub [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) RE: Newbie question. - efficiency and losses by Mark Fowler [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) RE: fast charger by Sharon Hoopes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) RE: Supply by Roger Stockton [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) RE: Supply by mike golub [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) Re: Combining Fiberglass and Steel (was Re: Designing for safety) by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) RE: Supply by Roger Stockton [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) Re: fast charger by Joe Smalley [EMAIL PROTECTED] 22) Re: Combining Fiberglass and Steel (was Re: Designing for safety) by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 23) Help with my Link 10 (phantom regen!) by Adams, Lynn [EMAIL PROTECTED] 24) Combining Fiberglass and Steel (was Re: Designing for safety) by David C. Navas [EMAIL PROTECTED] 25) RE: Help with my Link 10 (phantom regen!) by Roger Stockton [EMAIL PROTECTED] 26) Re: Motor Close Call (I hope) by Jim Husted [EMAIL PROTECTED] 27) RE: Supply by Phil Marino [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- One thing I forgot to include in my last email about protecting the motor by skirting the inner fender walls with a rubber zip off covering, is that also include a large fiberglass skid plate that is fasten just below the frame cross member. This plate covers the area from the existing radiator cross member back to the bell housing of the motor. Also, install the motor controller on a chassic plate that is on supports extended about 6 inches in from the edges of the hood. I install mind extending 10 inches from the firewall which is just over the motor. Its in a plastic Nema 12 enclosure that also is under pressure with a filter 150 CFM blower fan and exits through a screen grill. Hoods on cars are at times, not gasket like a trunk of a car. So I order a gasket with the right shape from J.C. Whitney that looks like it was made for it. Use a 3-M double face tape, the same type that is used to put on side moldings on the car for installing the weather striping. I find that this holds the best. Wiped the contact areas with alcohol before attaching. If you have areas in the hood, that could leak water in, install a stainless steel shield over the top of these units with a slight slope so water will run off in the direction you want. I install a pinch type edge guard on all these stainless shields, that you can also get from J.C. Whitney. Roland - Original Message - From: Bob Ricemailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edumailto:ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Sent: Friday, September 30, 2005 8:02 AM Subject: Re: Is it really okay to expose motor to the elements - Original Message - From: Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edumailto:ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2005 2:39 PM Subject: Re: Is it really okay to expose motor to the elements Eric Poulsen wrote: With many conversions, the motor is often located near the underside of the car. I've read here that you shouldn't worry too much about the motor, but is it really okay with getting wet/dirty? What happens when you hit a big puddle, and have direct splash onto the motor? MOTOR!?!? Hell, the controller is the problem here. If you are running anything becides a contacter, THEY work wet, controller you hafta protect it from ANY water. EVen on super damp drippy CT weather was enough to put the fire out on a Rapter and T Rex! Washing the car too enthusticly, loused it up even, used a hair dryer to get it dried out dso it would work. Nothing more depressing than a dead Squalid state controller after you have had a contacter setup!That ya built and know how to
EV digest 4781
EV Digest 4781 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Help with my Link 10 (phantom regen!) by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Cable Crimping Tools by Rush [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) RE: Tilting 3-wheelers by stU [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Re: Tilting 3-wheelers by Matthew Trevaskis [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) City-EL on eBay by Jeff Teri [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Re: battery explosion, terminal connections by Neon John [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Re: Battery charging in parallel by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) Re: Cable Crimping Tools by mike golub [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Re: Cable Crimping Tools by Ralph Merwin [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Re: Cable Crimping Tools by Neon John [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Re: City-EL on eBay by Rick [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Re: Tilting 3-wheelers by Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) Fw: Battery charging in parallel by Rick [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) NO ATTACHMENTS (was: for sale 914 porsche) by David Roden [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Re: Battery charging in parallel (follows Lee's idea) by Rick [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) Re: City-EL on eBay by Christopher Robison [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) Re: Siemens EV Motors by Ryan Stotts [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) Re: Help with my Link 10 (phantom regen!) by Ryan Bohm [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) FW: Battery charging in parallel by Robert Chew [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) Re: Siemens EV Motors by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) Re: Help with my Link 10 (phantom regen!) by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 22) Re: Battery charging in parallel by Mark Grasser [EMAIL PROTECTED] 23) Industrial motors was: Re: Siemens EV Motors by James Massey [EMAIL PROTECTED] 24) Re: Battery charging in parallel by Mark Grasser [EMAIL PROTECTED] 25) Re: Industrial motors was: Re: Siemens EV Motors by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 26) RE: Battery charging in parallel (A Different Idea) by stU [EMAIL PROTECTED] 27) Re: Battery charging in parallel by David Roden [EMAIL PROTECTED] 28) RE: Battery charging in parallel (A Different Idea) by David Roden [EMAIL PROTECTED] 29) RE: Battery charging in parallel (A Different Idea) by stU [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- It could be in your prescaler unit. I am using a No. 1N2537 which is 0-499 volt rated that has a built in DC-DC 12 volt output. You still input your Battery 12 Volts into it. It provides a stable 12 volts output and isolates from the EV 12 volt system. Roland - Original Message - From: Evan Tuermailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edumailto:ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Sent: Saturday, October 01, 2005 7:12 AM Subject: Re: Help with my Link 10 (phantom regen!) On 10/1/05, Adams, Lynn [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Ok, I've chased this problem for weeks and am appealing to the list for help. My link-10 meter is acting strangely. The meter seems to work correctly until I turn on something in the 12 volt system (fan, headlights, brake lights, whatever). When this happens, the current starts jumping around and finally settles on +510 Amps. That would be great if it were true! So, I turn on the heater and run the fan on high, a situation I know to pull between -15 to -16 amps. The link 10 shows +510 on the display. Measurement of the voltage drop across the shunt is 1.6 mV, as expected. My KTA amp meter show that -16 amps is being drawn. I'm not sure if this is quite the same problem I had, but I used to see the amps sometimes start jumping around even with everything switched off, and sometimes stick at 510 (or 512?). Tapping the meter would temporarily fix it. I eventually took it apart and re-flowed a few solder joints (mainly the connector), and that fixed the problem for good. Yours does sound a bit more like electrical noise or an isolation problem though. ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Doug wrote: I'm building my cables now - QuickCable copper terminals on the SAE posts on Orbital batteries. Are you using #2/0 cables? What are you crimping them with? I'm about to do my cables and have a 2' bolt cutter that I was going to turn into a crimper but don't know what size hex socket to use. I looked at some cables connections and 1/2 looks right. Can anybody say whether that is the correct size or not? Thanks Rush Tucson AZ www.ironandwood.org ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- If you want to understand the 'feel' of a tilting 3-wheeler or any tilting vehicle this of the last time you drove around a banked turn at high speed. Now think about the same curve, same speed, on the flat. If you could make a 2F2R tilter like the Honda Gyro with the batteries and the motor low in the rear and the tilt pivot very low, it would be nice. However when you
EV digest 4782
. It is most likely that when the gain is up, the speedo is picking up interference from the motor controller. The first thing to do is to make sure the speedo wiring is located far away from any traction wiring. If that doesn't fix things then you should try running shielded twisted pair from the pickup to the speedo. If the problem is still there then you'll have to start looking for ground loops and/or tramp connections between the traction and 12 volt wiring. One other thing to check is to make sure your DC/DC converter isn't outputting trash onto the 12 volt side. John --- John De Armond See my website for my current email address http://www.johngsbbq.com Cleveland, Occupied TN ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- That sounds like a great idea! You don't think a PVC tank would be needed? -Original Message- From: Jeff Shanab [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2005 11:03 PM To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List Subject: Proof of concept/alternatives I was wondering what makes vacuum pumps so special http://www.shoplocal.com/shoplocal/Default.aspx?action=detailbroadreachpret ailerid=-99798listingid=-2096537714 This unit has an inlet port, instead of drawing air thru motor. It is tapped 1/4 pipe and they provide a plastic and foam filter for this hole. I connected this to the vacuum booster hose and left the air side open. I put it in the 300ZEV using the vacum switch from a 300zx turbo without a tank as a test. It runs for 3 seconds and shuts off and does that every second brake activation. It also runs 1/2 second every 8 so I realize that it is missing a checkvalve between the pump and the system and leaking back thru pump or there is another leak. Yes, this means I can hear it while I drive. Perhaps a series resistor to slow it down will quiet it. This is 72LPM if someone finds a 30 LPM with an inlet port, let me know. It is overkill in size, but I will always be able to turn on the key, open a vacum valve to air to start it, then connect the hose provided to pump up a tire :-) Dual Purpose! I am thinking of mounting it under where the gas tank was and using the remaining hard steal fuel line to bring the vacuum up to the engine compartment. We will see how long it survives. ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Go to your Auto Parts Store, Hardware Store or Tool Box Store and take the Allen wrench with you that you used to install or remove the set screw and pick up a range of set screws that fits that Allen wrench and look like the one you take out which might be metric or standard. I do this often to replace the very short set screws with a longer one. Make sure all the sets screws are the same length, as not to have a balance problem. Also I will apply a bit of non-permanent Lok-Tite to the set screw too. Its handy to have a box of 3-M or equal black windshield strip putty. This is a very sticky stuff, where I will apply to the end of a screw driver, sockets, box and open end wrenches and Allen wrenches. This keeps the fastener from dropping of the tool if you are trying to place a fastener into a area where you cannot reach with you fingers. Another tool that is handy for set screws, is that if you have to go in with a angle with the Allen wrench is a Ball end Allen wrench. Roland - Original Message - From: Lawrence Rhodesmailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Electric Vehicle Discussion Listmailto:ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Sent: Sunday, October 02, 2005 2:55 AM Subject: Iota problem screws. I some how lost and found the positive setscrew for the output of the Iota unit I have. I put it in sidways. (they should use a longer setscrew. When I got it out it rolled somewhere and I can't find it. Does anyone know what type of thread it is? It'll save me a big hastle. Looks like a fine thread. Lawrence Rhodes.. Lawrence Rhodes Bassoon/Contrabassoon Reedmaker Book 4/5 doubler Electric Vehicle Solar Power Advocate 415-821-3519 [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- I have not seen the water cooling portion of the Zilla controller. Does someone have it already set up with pictures that I could see? Are there tubes on the back or something? What kind of waterpump is needed? How much flow/minute? Would a 9 tube transmission cooler work well? -Original Message- From: Jim Coate [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, September 30, 2005 11:21 AM To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Subject: Re: Is it really okay to expose motor to the elements One of the advantages of Zillas being water cooled is that you can put the entire controller + hairball set up in its own compartment, protected from the elements. Now I'm wondering how much water (New England weather and living close to the coast) had to do with my DCP woes of days gone by. Bob Rice wrote: anything becides a contacter, THEY work wet, controller you hafta protect it from
EV digest 4783
at drmm period net. = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = - Yahoo! for Good Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort. ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- I'll bet the neg setscrew is the same. Rush Tucson AZ www.ironandwood.org - Original Message - From: Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Sent: Sunday, October 02, 2005 1:55 AM Subject: Iota problem screws. I some how lost and found the positive setscrew for the output of the Iota unit I have. I put it in sidways. (they should use a longer setscrew. When I got it out it rolled somewhere and I can't find it. Does anyone know what type of thread it is? It'll save me a big hastle. Looks like a fine thread. Lawrence Rhodes.. Lawrence Rhodes Bassoon/Contrabassoon Reedmaker Book 4/5 doubler Electric Vehicle Solar Power Advocate 415-821-3519 [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- I like the idea of a rotating switch to charge each battery. I would change it to rotate after the charge complete light turns of from the charger though instead of by a certain time. That way an intelligent charge controller can be used to charge the pack and each battery is charged in its own pattern. If you have a weak battery, the others may never see the charger. Perhaps a compromise.You know that the batteries require X Amp-hours. Switch for X- Amp-hours and then dwell on each until the charger is satisfied that its job is done. This multi charger or the switch able charger eliminates heavy cable switching. The light gauge charging wiring can be permanently installed to a plug. If a series charger is found, it too can be used. In fact, both series and individual charging could be simultaneous with intelligent chargers. H? BoyntonStu -Original Message- From: Robert Chew [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, October 02, 2005 3:26 AM To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Subject: FW: Battery charging in parallel (A Different Idea) Lee? ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Hi John and All, Just catching up on E mail as I've been swamped. John Westlund [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I'm glad to see that someone besides Zap bought it. Even better that you will have access to it, Jerry. With NiCds, you could build a 200+ mile range EV from it, That's probably pushing it though 150 miles is easily possible on ni-cads with a 20 yr battery life. . and with lead 100 miles is a big possibility. That has already been done in the Sunrise. We only need 720 lbs of lead batts to do that with a 20% safety margin. Imagine a $25,000 Zilla powered electric musclecar that could kill the new Charger.. This really isn't the EV for that as the Front wheel drive kind of precludes that much power. But it can do quite well with a 1k zilla which with it's lightweight body, chassis, could easily beat most production cars in the 1/4 mile. We will have a 2 seat sportscar with rear drive for the really hot, fast EV market with really great looks, easily out classing most on the market now. It will have a White Zombie inspired drive train for too fast power !! . I hope you guys really work with the finish of that body, as it has a lot of potential for efficiency, but really needs some work in the looks department! You are thinking of the original body which was fairly bad. This new version, shape has very good finish being done by probably the best composite company in the world, TPI of RI. You get that EV1 gem-like finish and you will get your business some attention. That's the plan to do this first class and my Freedom EV tooling was just popped out and my glass guy has done a great job taking it from my good finished plug and brought it to first class finish but that's what I hired him for. James is including thew chassis molds with the body and much other stuff so it will be even easier, earlier to put it into production. I'll be heading up to Bob's place to pick the body up this coming week so will be great to see it, Bob in person. Bob Rice should be thanked as without him sticking his neck out and doing all he has done, this never would have happened. Thanks, Jerry Dycus - Yahoo! for Good Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort. ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- - Original Message - From: jerry dycus [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Sent: Sunday, October 02, 2005 10:22 AM Subject: Re: We got the Sunrise !!! Hi All; Getting into my 5 weeks gone to Portland E mail too, like among my OTHER Lists got up to 1200
EV digest 4784
EV Digest 4784 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) 914 weight balance by Ben Apollonio [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) RE: 914 weight balance by Sharon Hoopes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) SOC by Jeff Shanab [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Re: crimper tools by Ryan Stotts [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) website for Siemens motors by Charles Whalen [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Re: We got the Sunrise !!! by Doug Weathers [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Orbital XCD stacking by Ben Apollonio [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) RE: Battery charging in parallel (A Different Idea) Lee? by Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3) [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) RE: performance problems by Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3) [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) RE: 914 weight balance by Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3) [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Re: Solar Trailer? by Neon John [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) RE: Is it really okay to expose motor to the elements by Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3) [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) RE: Practical Aero MC, RE: Streamlined Scooters by jerry dycus [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) RE: 914 weight balance by Sharon Hoopes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Re: We got the Sunrise !!! by David C. Navas [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) Re: Is it really okay to expose motor to the elements by Rush [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) Re: Orbital XCD stacking by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) Re: website for Siemens motors by Osmo Sarin [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) Re: performance problems by Paul G. [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) Street Conversion vs Modified Conversion by John Wayland [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) Re: We got the Sunrise !!! by jerry dycus [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- I'm looking for advice on maintaining adequate weight balance on my 914. I know many people on this list either have 914's or have had experience with them, so I figure this is as good a place as any to start. My car will have a 9 ADC, stock transmission, and 16 Orbitals (or possibly YTs, although I hear they're not to be trusted anymore). Right now, I'm building a battery box to put four of the batteries up front, where the gas tank used to live. I can't fit more than four up there if I size my battery box for Orbitals with the side terminals. This means the remaining 12 would likely go in the engine compartment. I'm wondering how bad this would be for my weight balance, particularly if I had to stop quickly or turn sharply to avoid an obstacle. One alternative would be to put two more batteries in the front trunk, but I don't really want to put more weight up front on those poor torsion bars than I have to. I don't really have any way of measuring what the car's original or unloaded weights are, so I'm don't have the numbers I'd need to maintain the original balance. In your opinion/experience, what's the best way to arrange things? Thanks -Ben ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Bill Sharon Hoopes [EMAIL PROTECTED] [Original Message] From: Ben Apollonio [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Date: 10/2/2005 11:54:04 AM Subject: 914 weight balance I'm looking for advice on maintaining adequate weight balance on my 914. I know many people on this list either have 914's or have had experience with them, so I figure this is as good a place as any to start. My car will have a 9 ADC, stock transmission, and 16 Orbitals (or possibly YTs, although I hear they're not to be trusted anymore). Right now, I'm building a battery box to put four of the batteries up front, where the gas tank used to live. I can't fit more than four up there if I size my battery box for Orbitals with the side terminals. This means the remaining 12 would likely go in the engine compartment. I'm wondering how bad this would be for my weight balance, particularly if I had to stop quickly or turn sharply to avoid an obstacle. One alternative would be to put two more batteries in the front trunk, but I don't really want to put more weight up front on those poor torsion bars than I have to. I don't really have any way of measuring what the car's original or unloaded weights are, so I'm don't have the numbers I'd need to maintain the original balance. In your opinion/experience, what's the best way to arrange things? Thanks -Ben ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- I went for a drive, about 3-4 miles one way. Forgot my wallet and headed home and then I had to creep home, I am not sure if it was the zilla got hot or if my batteries were totally dead, I havent hooked up the water yet. I was trying to get it over to the shop to build more battery racks. It seemed to be ok cruising then would suddenly cut out while trying to accelerate from stop sign. I don't know what dead batteries feels like, this seems like the zilla got warm because of the sharp change. But the first 3 miles was great, kept up with traffic, no problem.
EV digest 4785
EV Digest 4785 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Use of Photovoltaics for EVs by Tim Clevenger [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Re: Industrial motors was: Re: Siemens EV Motors by James Massey [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) RE: performance problems by Ross Henderson [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Re: 914 weight balance by Rush [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) RE: 914 weight balance by Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3) [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Re: performance problems by Nick Viera [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Re: Street Conversion vs Modified Conversion by Paul G. [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) Re: Is it really okay to expose motor to the elements by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Re: 914 weight balance by Rush [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) RE: Is it really okay to expose motor to the elements by Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3) [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Re: performance problems by Ross Henderson [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Re: Another NEDRA rule question by [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- Something else to consider with the on-car cells: if I had the choice between parking in the parking garage at work or parking in the sun so my solar cells would work, I'd still park in the garage. When it's 105 outside and the car's in direct sunlight, the A/C tends to eat the gain from on-car cells pretty quick. Tim On Sep 28, 2005, at 5:05 AM, Electric Vehicle Discussion List wrote: On 9/28/05, djsharpe [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Mounting PVs on vehicles with limited surface areas and the need to mount them flat (at least whilst moving) is less preferred than locating them in optimised fixed locations. Here the energy produced can be fed into the grid for later recovery or stored directly in batteries. I have heard that solar challenge PVs are sometimes damaged during the events. They are fragile things. I have 3kW of PV on a roof am planning 1.6kW more. This is to power my house but it is not enough to charge my EV as well. ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- At 10:41 AM 2/10/05 -0500, Ryan wrote: James Massey wrote: I can get an industrial drive to run it from a battery pack, and be happy at 400V on the DC buss, How much does one of these 400V industrial drives sell for? From memory, about twice the price of the cheapest Zilla. We looked very closely at this about two years ago for a customers' job that didn't go ahead, I could dig out the drive manufacturer if anyone is interested. Their drives would go up to 800V for the ones made for the 415V 3-phase AC market (here) and it needed to be a indent-order one for the 200V 3-phase market that would work on a 400V buss. They had used these drives on shunting train locos used for yard work for a couple of customers - not sure where though. James ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Jody Dewey: The transmission handles reverse gear - it seems like the flow of energy to the motor is erratic. Another member suggested the tack pickup / rev limiter function on the controller and I'm going there first. Thanks, Ross Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3) [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Are you using the controller to go in reverse or a gear? If it is a gear my bet is something is wrong with the transmission. If you are reversing a DC motor to get reverse I think the brushes are totally in the wrong advance position for reverse operation. As for the 12V going dead problem my thought is the DC/DC converter. Disconnect it and let it sit for a week and see what happens. Otherwise use the standard pull a fuse until you find it technique on the 12V DC bus line. -Original Message- From: Ross Henderson [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, October 02, 2005 2:39 PM To: ev list Subject: performance problems Gentlemen, I have a 20 battery 120 Volt pick-up truck. I just bought the truck fully converted from a man in Michigan who did a great job on it. I'm happy with the truck but I do have some problems. First, the truck skips, bucks, stutters and jumps like a bunny rabbit in reverse (no clutch). I thought this was a non use thing when I test drove the truck but it hasn't gone away. (DCP Raptor 600 controller) What can I do to fix this? Secondly, the 12 Volt system looses charge when allowed to sit for a week or more. The key wasn't even in the truck, no lights / radio left on, etc. Could I have a faulty ignition switch? Signed, new guy in western North Carolina (Ross) - Yahoo! for Good Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort. - Yahoo! for Good Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort. ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- - Original Message - From: Ben Apollonio [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Sent: Sunday, October 02, 2005 11:46 AM Subject: 914 weight balance I don't really have any way
EV digest 4786
EV Digest 4786 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Cable Crimping Tools by [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Re: Street Conversion vs Modified Conversion by John Wayland [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Re: Streamlined Scooters by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Re: Solar Trailer? by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Re: We got the Sunrise !!! by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) RE: Battery charging in parallel (A Different Idea) Lee? by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Re: Industrial motors was: Re: Siemens EV Motors by Ryan Stotts [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) Re: Street Conversion vs Modified Conversion by John Westlund [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Re: fast charger by Joe Smalley [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Possible motors or build our own. Re: We got the Sunrise !!! by jerry dycus [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Re: Street Conversion vs Modified Conversion by jerry dycus [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Re: website for Siemens motors by Charles Whalen [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) RE: Clarification of hook-up of EV-1 to Bradley from post01082 (Jan 2000) by Roger Stockton [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Re: Industrial motors was: Re: Siemens EV Motors by James Massey [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Re: Cable Crimping Tools by Rush [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) First drive impressions by Jeff Shanab [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) Re: fast charger by Rich Rudman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) RE: SOC by Roger Stockton [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) Re: fast charger by Rich Rudman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) My S-10 again - ABS by Michaela Merz [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) TS Connecting Questions by Bill Dennis [EMAIL PROTECTED] 22) Re: Cable Crimping Tools by [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] 23) Re: Street Conversion vs Modified Conversion by [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- Here is a link to my $21 2/0 crimpers http://www.haritech.com/crimp.htm Use 4 foot bolt cutters. Three foot bolts cutters will work, but you must shorten the socket and make a thinner crimp. At 09:22 AM 10/1/2005, you wrote: Doug wrote: I'm building my cables now - QuickCable copper terminals on the SAE posts on Orbital batteries. Are you using #2/0 cables? What are you crimping them with? I'm about to do my cables and have a 2' bolt cutter that I was going to turn into a crimper but don't know what size hex socket to use. I looked at some cables connections and 1/2 looks right. Can anybody say whether that is the correct size or not? Thanks Rush Tucson AZ www.ironandwood.org _ /|Bill Wisenheimer Dube' \'o.O' [EMAIL PROTECTED] =(___)= U Check out the bike - http://www.KillaCycle.com ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Hello to All, Paul G. wrote: One must carefully consider not allowing roll cages in an SC class car. First, that means that new records will end in the 12's - NHRA won't accept 11's without a cage. Second, someone may want to run a VW kit car some day. They require a cage unless they are not competitive (and NHRA is right about that - they have little side impact strength and are squirrely at speed.) These are good points. I'm not closed to the idea of a roll cage, and safety should always come first, but my personal feeling is that a roll cage screams 'race car'. But then again, the Tango comes factory equipped with a full cageh. How does everyone else feel about this? Is having a roll cage in a street conversion class EV to much 'race' and moving away from 'street', or, is it a proper step for an SC class EV to take as it gets quicker through the quarter mile? How about swapping tires once one gets to the track and running slicks? I still feel that slicks should be reserved for MC class vehicles, but it sure would be fun to see what my low 12 second car (man, that sounds good) could do with the extra catapult action out of the hole real slicks provide! I could do this and not submit the time slips to NEDRA to keep things fair in the SC class, just to see if White Zombie can pull 11's...then again, the damn thing just might pull a high 11 on street tires :-) I look forward to seeing the rules, voltage and class, reviewed. It means that EV racing is growing - the varied opinions about what the rules mean is showing. Me too. I'd like to hear from NEDRA board members and get their valued opinions. NEDRA? Bill Dube? See Ya..John 'Plasma Boy' Wayland ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- I have one I got stright from Craig. It should really do the job. I've had mine for a while. If someone twisted my arm I might let it go. Lawrence Rhodes. - Original Message - From: Nick 'Sharkey' Moore [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Sent: Saturday, October 01, 2005 8:47 PM Subject: Streamlined Scooters if anyone here is seriously considering making a
EV digest 4787
EV Digest 4787 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: crimper tools by David Roden [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Re: We got the Sunrise !!! by David Roden [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Re: Street Conversion vs Modified Conversion by Rich Rudman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) RE: TS Connecting Questions by Roger Stockton [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Re: My S-10 again - ABS by David Roden [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Re: Cable Crimping Tools by Jeff Shanab [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Re: We got the Sunrise !!! by Bob Rice [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) TS connecting questions by Jeff Shanab [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Re: Cable Crimping Tools by mike golub [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) RE: TS Connecting Questions by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) RE: 914 weight balance by Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Re: fast charger by Evan Tuer [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) Scrapheap Challenge by paul compton \(RRes-Roth\) [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Re: Street Conversion vs Modified Conversion by David Dymaxion [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) RE: TS Connecting Questions by Mark Fowler [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) Curtis question by Mark Hanson [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) Re: First drive impressions by STEVE CLUNN [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) Re: We got the Sunrise !!! by Bruce Weisenberger [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) Re: Cable Crimping Tools by Rush [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) Re: We got the Sunrise !!! by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) Re: FW: Battery charging in parallel (A Different Idea) Lee? by STEVE CLUNN [EMAIL PROTECTED] 22) Re: SOC by STEVE CLUNN [EMAIL PROTECTED] 23) RE: Help with my Link 10 (phantom regen!) by Adams, Lynn [EMAIL PROTECTED] 24) Re: FW: Battery charging in parallel (A Different Idea) Lee? by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- On 2 Oct 2005 at 11:42, mike golub wrote: I was wondering how the hammer crimper compares to the handle one. Which one is better for you depends partly on you. Most people will tell you the hex crimper does a better job, that a hammer crimper makes less reliable crimps. That's probably true. However, for feeble wimps like me, the hammer crimper is better. I just don't have enough arm and shoulder strength to make a hex crimper work right, period. But I can handle a small sledge reasonably well. I have yet to have problems with any of my hammer crimps (knock on wood). The hammer crimper's major downside is that it's just about impossible to use it to crimp a connector with the cable in the vehicle. Theoretically, that can be done with a hex crimper. However, I suspect that the handle length makes this difficult, and for many people the working angles at which they can get enough grunt on the handles may be limited. One thing more - the hammer crimper is a LOT cheaper. You can get a decent one for under $30. A good hex crimper will run over $200. However, Bill Dube has published instructions for homebrewing a hex crimper from an old pair of bolt cutters (check auctions and garage sales) and a hex socket. David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA EV List Assistant Administrator = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Want to unsubscribe, stop the EV list mail while you're on vacation, or switch to digest mode? See how: http://www.evdl.org/help/ = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Note: mail sent to the from address above may not reach me. To send me a private message, please use evdl at drmm period net. = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- On 2 Oct 2005 at 14:00, jerry dycus wrote: I seriously don't think many will pay more for less performance though some might for the extra 10-15% range. Also the charger, batts will cost much more. Lee is right. This is not a budget ride, any more than the GM EV1 was. The induction motor drives I've driven have acted rather like ICE cars with automatic transmissions. OTOH, the torque curve of series DC drives is unfamiliar to many people. An induction motor, especially with well calibrated regen, makes for a more pleasant and familiar drive for Jane and John Doe. That may be one reason that many of the limited production EVs used induction drives - so that drivers (often a fearful lot, suspicious of change) wouldn't find them so alien at first try. It will be worth the incremental cost, IMO. The Sunrise is a beautifully designed car. Solectria was a class act, and the Sunrise was pretty much the pinnacle of their design effort. I know this car is yours to do with as you please, but I'd hate to see you just cram a cheap forklift motor into it. It is NOT an economy car and shouldn't be treated that way. It's a BMW of EVs, please don't turn it into a Kia. You'll break James Worden's heart, and that is not a joke.
EV digest 4789
EV Digest 4789 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Cable Crimping Tools by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Re: Scrapheap Challenge by toltec [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Re: SOC by Jeff Shanab [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Re: New Sparrows now $35,000 by Ryan Stotts [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Re: New Sparrows now $35,000 by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Electric Motorcyles ListServ by mreish [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) My ultracaps for sale by Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) Re: Cable Crimping Tools by Dave Cover [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Re: New Sparrows now $35,000 by Nick 'Sharkey' Moore [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Re: Help with my Link 10 (phantom regen!) by Paul G. [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) RE: New Sparrows now $35,000 by Jake Oshins [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Re: Cable Crimping Tools by Neon John [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) Re: New Sparrows now $35,000 by Ryan Stotts [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Re: Cable Crimping Tools by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Early Ford Ranger motor, was Re: We got the Sunrise !!! by Doug Hartley [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) Re: Cable Crimping Tools by Neon John [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) Re: Cable Crimping Tools by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) Re: New Sparrows now $35,000 by jerry dycus [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) RE: performance problems by D Franklin [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) Re: Cable Crimping Tools by Danny Miller [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) Re: Newbie by Bob Bath [EMAIL PROTECTED] 22) happieness is 36,000 watts by Rich Rudman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 23) Re: Street Conversion vs Modified Conversion by David Chapman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 24) I'm famous! by Ryan Bohm [EMAIL PROTECTED] 25) Science Project (long) by Gary Van Ravenswaay [EMAIL PROTECTED] 26) Re: New Sparrows now $35,000 by John G. Lussmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] 27) Re: happieness is 36,000 watts by Danny Miller [EMAIL PROTECTED] 28) Re: Newbie by Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED] 29) Re: happieness is 36,000 watts by David Roden [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- John Luck Home asked: Why does everyone crimp these connectors instead of tinning the fine stranded welding cable and soldering them into closed end ring connectors. Isn't this going to give better contact area from cable to lug? A perfect soldered connection is just as good as a perfect crimped connection. However, soldering takes more skill, especially for large connections. So crimping is more likely to produce a good connection when done by amateurs. -- Lee Hart814 8th Ave NSartell MN 56377[EMAIL PROTECTED] ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- paul compton (RRes-Roth) wrote: Scrapheap Challenge (also re-Broadcast and produced in the US as Junkyard Wars). UK Series 8 is three programmes into it's run. Next week is off-road EV's with yours truly as one of the team experts. great! please let us know the outcome (after it's broadcast, so as not to spoil the suspense for viewers, of course) that is a great show - unfortunately, it is not running on US tv any longer (at least on none of the cable channels I get)... they started up a couple of US-produced versions of it, which instantly degenerated into take an existing ICE and weld a catapult and battering ram onto it uselessness... the original, Scrapheap, on the other hand, was a heck of a lot of fun! glad to see they're doing EVs... ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- steve clunn said : must be a good DMM actually it is a radio-shack 22-812. I think it is just cheap enough to be so slow as to provide it's own debouncing. I was watching MV from the shunt and had to wait till I got home to calculate my amps. How far were you planning on going ? 8 miles, one way to work to make the front battery rack for the last 8 batteries. h so you got brakes but no water cooling :-),,, also don't forget to brake in you motor and batteries easy ,,, for the first 500 miles this is the 300 zx right , Yes it is the 300zx, man was it a bear to stop without the pump. I had taken it for a few round the block trips. The real interesting variation here in using the SUV tire-inflator from pepboys is I can still hook up the provided air hose and open my vacum dump valve and air up my tires :-) on board air. 59.99. if it lasts I will recommend it as an alternative to $200-$300 units. Th 312 calculated amps was 12.8 mv on a 50mv 1200 amp shunt, i was accelerating a little hard that time, god I hope I wasn't putting 1000 motor amps out. I thought I was taking it easy. 156*140 = 21.8kw 218*70 = 15.2kw Humm, I can't watch the gauge safely yet and the speedometer is not working. IT is a nissan thing, don't know if I got it hooked up wrong or if the sender or gauge is bad, it reads 65 at a stop and goes to 115 at traffic speeds. I am a big
EV digest 4790
EV Digest 4790 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: happieness is 36,000 watts by Danny Miller [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Re: Cable Crimping Tools by Rich [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) RE: Cable Crimping Tools by Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3) [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Re: Cable Crimping Tools by Evan Tuer [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Re: Science Project (long) by Tim Stephenson [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Re: I'm famous! by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Re: Cable Crimping Tools by Sharon Hoopes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) Re: I'm famous! by Bob Bath [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Abandoned Austin America - Santa Cruz by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Underestimated public reaction by Jeff Shanab [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Re: Cable Crimping Tools by STEVE CLUNN [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Re: happieness is 36,000 watts by Andre' Blanchard [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) Re: SOC by STEVE CLUNN [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Electrical Connections by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Re: Pic of the inside of an inverter by Evan Tuer [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) RE: Scrapheap Challenge by Tim Humphrey [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) Re: happieness is 36,000 watts by STEVE CLUNN [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) RE: Science Project (long) by Tim Humphrey [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) Re: I'm famous! by John Wayland [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) Re: Science Project (long) by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) Re: Cable Crimping Tools by Eric Poulsen [EMAIL PROTECTED] 22) Re: I'm famous! by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 23) Re: Cable Crimping Tools by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- Yeah I realized when I got it that I never changed the topic. I never meant it to be part of that thread. The guys here know lead acid storage... car forums are a bunch of yahoos on that one. I'm pretty sure I just have a failed battery unless maybe they need equalizing. But the gap in specific gravity seems way too high to be that sort of problem. Danny David Roden wrote: Sorry to be a cranky old so and so, but this doesn't seem to be a post about an EV. Please post ICE-related questions in a general automotive forum. There are many of them all over the web. One possibility : http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/cars/ Alternatively, if you want to ask someone on the EV list a question about your ICE's battery, you might pick a couple of knowledgable list members and send the question to them via private email, NOT by a public post. And while I'm whining ;-), please don't hijack threads and change their subjects. This post has nothing to do with happiness is 36,000 watts. Thanks for your cooperation. PS - you need a new battery in your van. That one has a shorted cell. ;-) David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA EV List Assistant Administrator = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Want to unsubscribe, stop the EV list mail while you're on vacation, or switch to digest mode? See how: http://www.evdl.org/help/ = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Note: mail sent to the from address above may not reach me. To send me a private message, please use evdl at drmm period net. = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- There is copper brass gas welding rod that is used in air condition work. It has a much lower melting point and is excellent for this. Rich - Original Message - From: Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Sent: Tuesday, October 04, 2005 12:12 AM Subject: Re: Cable Crimping Tools Dave Cover wrote: He heats up a pool of solder inside the lug and then pushes the cable into the hot solder. The cable has been fluxed, but I don't think he tins it first. Says it works pretty good... Is this a neat trick or recipe for disaster? Sounds like a recipe for disaster! You get a joint of unknown quality that you can't inspect. -- The two most common elements in the universe are hydrogen and stupidity. -- Harlan Ellison -- Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.9/116 - Release Date: 9/30/2005 ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- When in doubt use a Megger to test your connection. I myself think that soldering a connection would be much better than crimping it. I agree that it is harder to do but guaranteed to have a better end result. -Original Message- From: Lee Hart [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, October 03, 2005 6:16 PM To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Subject: Re: Cable Crimping Tools John Luck Home asked: Why does everyone crimp these connectors instead of tinning the fine stranded welding cable and soldering them into closed end
EV digest 4791
EV Digest 4791 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Fwd: Motor Advancement vs Controller by John G. Lussmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) The other Solectria Sunrise by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) RE: Science Project (long) by Ralph Goodwin [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Re: happieness is 36,000 watts by Rich Rudman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Re: Science Project (long) by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Re: Early Ford Ranger motor, was Re: We got the Sunrise !!! by Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Re: New Sparrows now $35,000 by Charles Whalen [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) range issue by Mark Ward [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Re: I'm famous! by STEVE CLUNN [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Re: Abandoned Austin America - Santa Cruz by David Roden (Akron OH USA) [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Re: Cable Crimping Tools by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Re: Fwd: Motor Advancement vs Controller by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) Measuring the current -- Was: First drive impressions by John Luck Home [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Re: Cable Crimping Tools by John Luck Home [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Re: Electric Vehicle Help - Happy Ending by Rex Allison [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) Re: Cable Crimping Tools, soldering by Mark Hanson [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) Re: happieness is 36,000 watts by Gordon Niessen [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) Re: Measuring the current -- Was: First drive impressions by Mark Farver [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) Re: Measuring the current -- Was: First drive impressions by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) Re: creaky rear struts in VoltsRabbit - slightly O.T. by Chuck Hursch [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) GM Cobalt manual steering how too by Ryan Stotts [EMAIL PROTECTED] 22) Re: GM Cobalt manual steering how too by Mark Farver [EMAIL PROTECTED] 23) Re: Measuring the current -- Was: First drive impressions by Danny Miller [EMAIL PROTECTED] 24) Ovonic's NiMH battery info needed by Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- This is from the Sparrow list. So, does the controller really make a difference on if you should advance your motor? 1) VIN 220 would have had a kilovac contoller though. It has been my understanding that with the kilovac controller the motor does *not* need to be advanced as that controller was built around the sparrow motor's neutral setting. 2) I believe that with the DCP controllers (both the 1200 and 600 Raptors) the motor should be advanced. 3) I do not have any info as to whether or not motor advancement should be made if either of the Curtis controllers are used. 4) If the Zilla is used, I believe the controller manufacturer (Otmar) suggests motor advancement, while MM has said that it does *not* need to be advanced. Can anyone verify any of this for the group (one way or another)? The thought of losing either a $1000 controller or motor simply due to an incorrect motor setting has never appealed to me. -- John G. Lussmyer mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream http://www.CasaDelGato.com ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- I see ZAP got the sloppy seconds of Sunrise bodies off eBay - Jerry, did you bid because you wanted the older molds? Seems you got the best one to start with already! Wonder what Garry Starr will do with it...probably sink a lot of someone else's money into it like has with everything else to do with ZAP. ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- I work with an electric vehicle education program that accomplishes many of the things you describe. The development of the EV Challenge program began in 1993 with three high schools participating in the construction of electric vehicles. Since then, the yearlong, hands-on program has increased its educational services and grown to include 30 high schools from seven states. A middle school program using the principles of the US Department of Energy Junior Solar Sprint was added to the EV Challenge in 2000, and has grown to include 14 middle schools throughout the state of North Carolina. The Junior Solar Sprint provides the middle school students with a solid foundation in sustainability energy content that they will need to progress to the advanced EV Challenge program at the high school level. The JSS program is nationwide. According to the Department of Energy, the primary goals of the JSS program are to: Generate enthusiasm for science and engineering; Improve student understanding of scientific concepts and renewable energy technologies; and Encourage young people to consider technical careers at an early age. For more information about the national JSS program and curriculum resources go to: www.nrel.gov/education/student/natjss.html The JSS program has lesson plans, work books, and other curriculum materials on their web site. In addition they hold regional competitions across
EV digest 4792
EV Digest 4792 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Roland's alternator/inverter by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) RE: Cable Crimping Tools by James Massey [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) RE: Ovonic's NiMH battery info needed by Roger Stockton [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Roland's alternator/inverter by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Re: Roland's alternator/inverter by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Re: Ovonic's NiMH battery info needed by Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Re: Science Project (long) by Tim Stephenson [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) Re: The other Solectria Sunrise by jerry dycus [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Thoughts/questions on getting an inverter built by Ryan Stotts [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Re: Industrial motors was: Re: Siemens EV Motors by Ryan Stotts [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) RE: Thoughts/questions on getting an inverter built by djsharpe [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Re: Thoughts/questions on getting an inverter built by Ryan Stotts [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) An AC Inverter for EVs by Christopher Walter [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) PFC20 acceptance voltage set point by Jeff Shanab [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) TDM Motor / Northrop Grumman / Westinghouse by Christopher Walter [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) RE: Cable Crimping Tools (solder mechanical strength) by stU [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) Re: The other Solectria Sunrise, an' Stuff. by Bob Rice [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) Re: Thoughts/questions on getting an inverter built by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) Re: Thoughts/questions on getting an inverter built by David Dymaxion [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) Re: Thoughts/questions on getting an inverter built by Ryan Stotts [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) Re: TDM Motor / Northrop Grumman / Westinghouse by Doug Hartley [EMAIL PROTECTED] 22) Re: Science Project (long) by Lightning Ryan [EMAIL PROTECTED] 23) Re: My S-10 again - ABS by Michaela Merz [EMAIL PROTECTED] 24) Re: Cable Crimping Tools, thoughts by Bob Rice [EMAIL PROTECTED] 25) Re: Cable Crimping Tools by David Roden [EMAIL PROTECTED] 26) Crimp versus solder (was: Cable Crimping Tools) by [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- Roland, could you please post some more details on your alternator, as described in this post of yours: On this frame work, this is a space for a very large alternator, that they used on Semi's. Different models from 145 amp 12 - 15 VDC to a combination type that also produces 120 VAC at 7000 watts through a DC-AC inverter package. -Some info like approximate dimensions, weight, model number and shaft size would be very helpful. This sounds appealing as an all-in-one rotary dc/dc, 120 VAC inverter, and regen assembly. You also mentioned not using regen since installing the Zilla. Reasons? Thanks, Jay Donnaway www.karmanneclectric.blogspot.com ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- At 06:50 AM 4/10/05 -0400, Dewey, Jody R wrote: When in doubt use a Megger to test your connection. Now *that* is a great way to confuse people. To most people Megger refers to a high potential (insulation) tester, usually with a minimum resolution of around 10,000 ohms. If you have access to a low-ohms meter (in some circles, made by Megger, and in those circles not confused with a high-potential tester) with a resolution of around 0.001 ohms you cam make such a measurement meaningfully. I myself think that soldering a connection would be much better than crimping it. I agree that it is harder to do but guaranteed to have a better end result. When I first started putting large lugs on cables (20-odd years ago when first doing welding equipment repairs) we had oxy but no crimper, so terminals were soldered. After several desoldered themselves (heating from inadequate connection/corrosion on the post) I investigated. Borrowed a crimper and took some test cables I made up to a local college that had a suitable meter. The crimping was a lower resistance than the soldered joint (when made with clean cable). When the correct size terminal for the wire is used and the correct sized die in the crimper, you will get cold-welding of the copper of the cable to the copper of the lug, giving lowest joint resistance possible in practical terms. If you want to try really hard you can silver-solder such connections - but the insulation doesn't like it much. I have done it (the thing being connected to was hot under normal operation) so the insulation on the wire was replaced with fibreglass sleeving for the first 12 or so to get away from the heat. As far as I know, the silver-soldered connection lasted no longer than the crimped ones, and I suspect that it probably broke away sooner from the hard points in the wire where the solder stopped. When I went into business for myself, knowing that I would be doing welding equipment
EV digest 4793
EV Digest 4793 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Crimp versus solder (was: Cable Crimping Tools) by Neon John [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Re: Science Project (long) by Joe Smalley [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Re: My S-10 again - ABS by James Massey [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Re: Measuring the current -- Was: First drive impressions by John Luck Home [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Re: Measuring the current -- Was: First drive impressions by Evan Tuer [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Re: Cable Crimping Tools by Evan Tuer [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) EV audio by Evan Tuer [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) Re: The other Solectria Sunrise, an' Stuff. by jerry dycus [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Useful Information to Share by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) RE: Cable Crimping Tools by Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3) [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) RE: Cable Crimping Tools by Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3) [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Re: Cable Crimping Tools by Evan Tuer [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) Re: Thoughts/questions on getting an inverter built by Evan Tuer [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) RE: Measuring the current -- Was: First drive impressions by Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3) [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) RE: Cable Crimping Tools by Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3) [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) Re: Cable Crimping Tools, thoughts by Tim Stephenson [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) Re: Cable Crimping Tools by Evan Tuer [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) RE: Cable Crimping Tools by Rick Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) Re: Measuring the current by Mark Hanson [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- On Tue, 04 Oct 2005 23:41:18 -0600, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: We have this thread about once every year. sigh The Navy studies showed that a properly crimped connection was better than a crimped and soldered connection in high-vibration environments (like a car, for example.) This is because there is a stress concentration at the point where the solder stops. This causes the wire to break at that point. The crimped connection does not have a sharp stress concentration point. *sigh* The key word is, of course, proper. I wonder how many DIY'ers have the proper crimp tools compared to how many have propane torches and solder? I wonder how a hammer-crimped lug would compare to a soldered one? Hex crimped vs soldered? I wonder how many decades if ever, it would take for a hunk of welding cable to break from vibration in a street-going electric car? While not having been in the position to waste taxpayers' money on government projects at NIST, I HAVE done a little testing with a press and spring scale. I find that the eye usually pulls out before anything else and that the lug is almost always destroyed in the process of pulling apart a soldered joint. I further find that a hammer-crimped lug generally pulls off without too much effort. Frankly, of academic interest only, since I doubt many people are going to use traction wiring as stressed elements. My recommendation remains for *home* constructors is to solder the lugs whenever possible. Soldering can be done with tools most people already have at hand, propane torches, solder, flux, etc. No need to spend lots of money on a set of metal displacement crimpers. John --- John De Armond See my website for my current email address http://www.johngsbbq.com Cleveland, Occupied TN ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- You sound really ambitious to do all that in four weeks. You didn't say how many hours a week you were expecting to spend on this project. It does make a difference. To stay within your time frame, you could try something like an electric bike race on a budget of $200. That would give them a week to plan, a week to get pieces, a week to assemble the bike and a week to test and tune it for the race. The point of the budget is to allow them to see what the market offers but to build something for less than the cost of a turn key solution. It would expose the students to a real budget, a real deadline, and real competitors in a short enough time span to make it interesting. Joe Smalley Rural Kitsap County WA Fiesta 48 volts NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Gary Van Ravenswaay [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: EV discusion list ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Sent: Monday, October 03, 2005 10:11 PM Subject: Science Project (long) Hello everyone, First let me introduce myself. I'm a future science teacher. I say future because about five years ago I went through a series of layoffs that resulted in my returning to college to become a teacher. Since I've always been interested in the sciences that seemed like the way to go (I can play with all the stuff I like and get kids into, it and get paid for it!). Anyway I am 45 years old and I find myself teacher assisting in a local middle school and I will be
EV digest 4794
EV Digest 4794 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Crimp versus solder (was: Cable Crimping Tools) by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Re: Thoughts/questions on getting an inverter built by Andre' Blanchard [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Re: My S-10 again - ABS by Michaela Merz [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Re: Cable Crimping Tools by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Re: The other Solectria Sunrise, an' Stuff. by Bob Rice [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Re: Cable Crimping Tools, thoughts by Bob Rice [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Re: Crimp versus solder (was: Cable Crimping Tools) by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) Re: Cable Crimping Tools by Bob Rice [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Re: Crimp versus solder (was: Cable Crimping Tools) by David Roden [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Re: Ovonic's NiMH battery info needed by Charles Whalen [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Re: Cable Crimping Tools by Evan Tuer [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Re: EV audio by John Wayland [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) Re: Cable Crimping Tools by Eric Poulsen [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Hammer Crimper by Eric Poulsen [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) OT: Watch yourself by David Roden [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) Re: EV audio by Evan Tuer [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) =?iso-8859-1?Q?Re:An_AC_Inverter_for_EVs?= by [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) Re: My S-10 again - ABS by Mark Farver [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) EV kit car by STEVE CLUNN [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) Re: Measuring the current -- Was: First drive impressions by Neon John [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) Re: Cable Crimping Tools by Neon John [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- What will happen is we, the EV builders and designers, do not use PROPER approved established building and safety procedures that is already outline, that more restrictions and wiring methods shall be place on the EV. We now have a Electric Vehicle NEC Article 625 that we did not have before. Everytime that some one has a accident, fire, explosion, there is a new article added. For example: All cables and wires in a EV shall be type and voltage rating design for that circuit. They SHALL be mark EV, EVJ, EVE, EVJE, EVT OR EVJT. All Connections of conductor SHALL be made by means of pressure connections, including SOLDER LUGS. Soldering of connections SHALL first be mechanically and electrically secure without solder first and then solder. Here one that we did not have before, until someone screw up: A electric vehicle shall not be used as standby emergency power. The overall length of a cable SHALL not exceed 25 feet. The receptacle and supply equipment SHALL have a interlock that de-energizes the electric vehicle connections. If loss of primary power while the EV is plug in. a means SHALL be provided, so the EV cannot be back fed from the electric vehicle to the premises wiring system. This NEC and National Fire Protection Association Article is getting longer every year. When we applied for a license for a EV you built, we will end up with not only a standard vehicle inspection, but a inspection by a electrical inspection and another inspection by a engineer that in this field. We will end up in submitting plans and blueprints for approval for building a EV. You may not be able to do some of the work, only by a approved license technician. Well, when I built my EV, I did have it inspected by a standard vehicle inspector, was than referred to the State Electrical Board, that sent out a electrical engineer to inspect my vehicle. Many of the NEC requirements was not established yet, but I went through all the safety items, as storage of ventilation batteries, clearances, voltage separations of different classes of conductors, water tight enclosures, conduits and explosion proofing. Of course I knew these guys and they want to see this EV. This what all EV'ers are all going to end up doing. There are already some restrictions and requirements for manufacturer built equipment for EV's, that SHALL conform and be label as being in conformance with all safety items lay out for the equipment. Roland - Original Message - From: Neon Johnmailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edumailto:ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Sent: Wednesday, October 05, 2005 12:11 AM Subject: Re: Crimp versus solder (was: Cable Crimping Tools) On Tue, 04 Oct 2005 23:41:18 -0600, [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: We have this thread about once every year. sigh The Navy studies showed that a properly crimped connection was better than a crimped and soldered connection in high-vibration environments (like a car, for example.) This is because there is a stress concentration at the point where the solder stops. This causes the wire to break at that point. The crimped connection does not have a
EV digest 4795
EV Digest 4795 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Measuring the current -- Was: First drive impressions by John Luck Home [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Re: Ovonic's NiMH battery info needed by Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Re: Thoughts/questions on getting an inverter built by Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Re: SOC by Eric Poulsen [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Those Allbright contactors by Neon John [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Re: Measuring the current -- Was: First drive impressions by Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Re: Measuring the current by Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) Re: Crimp versus solder by Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) RE: Cable Crimping Tools by Richard Rau [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Re: My S-10 again - ABS by Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Re: Cable Crimping Tools by Philippe Borges [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Re: Crimp versus solder (was: Cable Crimping Tools) by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) Re: Cable Crimping Tools by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Re: OT: Watch yourself by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Re: Measuring the current by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) Re: Cable Crimping Tools by Philippe Borges [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) Re: Cable Crimping Tools by Philippe Borges [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) Re: Those Allbright contactors by jerry dycus [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) RE: Useful Information to Share by Roger Stockton [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) Re: The other Solectria Sunrise, an' Stuff. by Ryan Stotts [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) Re: Hammer Crimper by Ryan Stotts [EMAIL PROTECTED] 22) Re: Cable Crimping Tools by Rush [EMAIL PROTECTED] 23) Re: Those Allbright contactors by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 24) Re: Those Allbright contactors by Rod Hower [EMAIL PROTECTED] 25) Re: We got the Sunrise !!! by Mike Ellis [EMAIL PROTECTED] 26) Re: We got the Sunrise !!! by Ryan Stotts [EMAIL PROTECTED] 27) Meggers/low resistance, was: RE: Cable Crimping Tools by James Massey [EMAIL PROTECTED] 28) Re: Meggers/low resistance, was: RE: Cable Crimping Tools by Ryan Stotts [EMAIL PROTECTED] 29) Fw: Bay Guardian article/SF Bay Area EV Converters chime in. by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 30) DLS-55 ready to install. by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 31) RE: Ovonic's NiMH battery info needed by djsharpe [EMAIL PROTECTED] 32) Re: Crimp versus solder by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- I think it will be one of the LEM hall effect devices that need 5v supply and will read 0 to 400 amps with 0.5% accuracy - (plenty good enough for me) and they output a proportional voltage that I will scale and apply to a small 50 - 0 - 50 uAmmeter. Hopefully I will be able to see current drawn and regen current too. They are about £12 ($20) for the device and a little time mounting on a board and then in a small box with a big hole in it. Only snag is I have to unmake one of my cables then pass it through the device then remake the connection onto the battery. Next thing is the temp sensor(s) and working out the switching for my voltmeter to be able to monitor 36 x 6volt batteries !!! - maybe I should join the other place and listen to what they have to say about a EV data bus for this info. John - Original Message - From: Neon John [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Sent: Wednesday, October 05, 2005 5:57 PM Subject: Re: Measuring the current -- Was: First drive impressions On Wed, 5 Oct 2005 09:12:28 +0100, John Luck Home [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Thanks to all who have pointed me towards the Hall effect devices for measuring DC current without breaking into a circuit. Products from A.F Bell, LEM, HEME and Honeywell. F.W. Bell (hope that's who you mean) makes among the best. If you don't mind going up a step in cost, flux gate based instruments are generally more stable than Hall effect. If you're just needing a clamp-on instrument, several of the usual test equipment suspects make 'em. Fluke has one that's OK for a little over $100. I have one of those. Its accuracy is adequate but one has to degauss it fairly frequently when used in DC. The Bell instrument doesn't have that problem. John --- John De Armond See my website for my current email address http://www.johngsbbq.com Cleveland, Occupied TN -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.9/118 - Release Date: 03/10/2005 ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Thank you for the link Charles. Unfortunately there is no charging requirement data in there. Charles Whalen wrote: The only Ovonic/Cobasys BEV NiMH battery I'm aware of in current production is the following, but it's 12V, not 13.2V, and has a
EV digest 4796
Cheers, Roger. ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Mike Ellis wrote: Can anyone post a link to a photo of what the Sunrise looks like assembled? -Mike Ellis Great timing! I just posted the latest additions to the EV Album including a Solectria Sunrise. You can find it at: http://evalbum.com/655.html or the whole Album at: http://evalbum.com BTW, anyone who doesn't have their EV in the Album please consider submitting it. Thanks, Mike Chancey Webmaster EV List Photo Album at: http://evalbum.com EV Tradin' Post at: http://evtradinpost.com MAEAA at http://maeaa.org ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Are you somehow grounding ( earth ground) the body of the car? If not, then you are at risk if there is a failure somewhere and the car body becomes hot with respect to ground -- unless there is a GFI in the power line to the charger - and, in the power line of every other piece of equipment that has 120 or 240 AC fed to it. I may have missed it, but why are you not using the ground line to ground the box and car body? Phil From: Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Subject: DLS-55 ready to install. Date: Wed, 5 Oct 2005 16:08:53 -0700 I've been using the DLS with AC power to keep the aux battery charged. I've made up a plug and will use just the hot neutral. No ground. The DLS is mounted to the frame of the car. Any other concerns? I'm hooking it up to the controller so it will be on while running the car. I may unplug while charging and plug back into the ac line. There is going to be a precharge resistor. I am going to hook that up to the bypass relay. Lawrence Rhodes Bassoon/Contrabassoon Reedmaker Book 4/5 doubler Electric Vehicle Solar Power Advocate 415-821-3519 [EMAIL PROTECTED] _ On the road to retirement? Check out MSN Life Events for advice on how to get there! http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=Retirement ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- What is the price of these? Could we do a bulk purchase? David -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Roger Stockton Sent: Thursday, 6 October 2005 9:39 AM To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Subject: RE: Ovonic's NiMH battery info needed djsharpe [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: The discharge graph suggests it is 13.2V or thereabouts. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Charles Whalen Sent: Wednesday, 5 October 2005 11:59 AM To: EV Discussion List Subject: Re: Ovonic's NiMH battery info needed The only Ovonic/Cobasys BEV NiMH battery I'm aware of in current production is the following, but it's 12V, not 13.2V, and has a 85Ah capacity (@ C/3): http://www.cobasys.com/pdf/transportation/Series9500/Series_9500_Brochur e.html The 13.2V module consists of 11 of these 9500-series cells strapped together and connected in series. The Cobasys series 9500 12V battery consists of 10 cells strapped together and connected in series. They are different, but the individual cells that make them up appear identical and should have the same charge requirements. What little charge information Cobasys appears to provide can be found in the brochure for the 9500 series that targets stationary applications: http://www.cobasys.com/pdf/stationary/Series9500/ST_Series_9500_Brochur e.html Cheers, Roger. ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Mike Chancey wrote: http://evalbum.com/655.html That's some nice looking interior. I wonder where they got it? That car is in mint condition! Very light weight for being a complete car. A shame about it's 0-60mph performance though.. Needs to be a real performer to shed the EV stereotypes and be worth the asking price. That complete one on eBay a while back was asking ~$80,000 was it not? ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- check this out!!! Bill Sharon Hoopes [EMAIL PROTECTED] Title: Stephen Taylor's Solectria Sunrise Last Updated: 10/05/05 Solectria Sunrise Owner: Stephen Taylor Location: Marietta, Georgia Email: Base Vehicle: Solectria Sunrise Motor: Solectria AC-GTX-20 Drivetrain: Solectria Single Speed Transmission Controller: Solectria UMOC440F Batteries: twenty-one twelve volt group 24 Deka AGMs System Voltage: 252 Volts Charger: NLG4 Heater: Solectria Heating and AC Systems DC/DC Converter: Solectria DC-DC 750 Instrumentation: Amp Hour meter and Ammeter Top Speed: 75 mph Acceleration: 0-60 in 17 seconds Range: 50 mile range bringing pack to its nominal voltage of 252 volts Seating Capacity: 4 adults Curb Weight: Approximately 2300 pounds
EV digest 4797
EV Digest 4797 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Thoughts/questions on getting an inverter built by Ryan Stotts [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Re: PFC20 acceptance voltage set point by Rich Rudman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Re: happieness is 36,000 watts by Rich Rudman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Re: happieness is 36,000 watts by Danny Ames [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) RE: TN EV buses on eBay by Cor van de Water [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) RE: Crimp versus solder (was: Cable Crimping Tools) by Cor van de Water [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) AGM battery bulk order: $85 for 110Ah 12V by Cor van de Water [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) Re: AGM battery bulk order: $85 for 110Ah 12V by John Luck Home [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Re: Windows for Sunrise by Mike Swift [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Re: DLS-55 ready to install. by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) RE: Those Allbright contactors by Cor van de Water [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) MILLI-ohm meter, was: Cable Crimping Tools by Cor van de Water [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) Attn Eathlink Customer, you have a virus (was Re: Emailing: 655.html by Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) RE: AGM battery bulk order: $85 for 110Ah 12V by Cor van de Water [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Re: MILLI-ohm meter, was: Cable Crimping Tools by John Luck Home [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) Fusing, was: RE: Those Allbright contactors by James Massey [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- David Dymaxion wrote: Anyone want to sponsor me for $100k of Lion batteries? I'm suprised Kokam doesn't want to sponsor some EV's to show off their impressive batteries. http://www.kokam.com/english/index.html ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- The cut back starts at a lower voltage when the Amps are up high. Really that cut back starts when the Yellow flashes. But actual cut back action takes a few volts between cutting back from 25 amps and full Zero amps cut back Are you placing a order with EV parts?? I have the Regs in hand... I can ship to EV parts or drop ship Like first thing in the morning. Rich Rudman Manzanita Micro - Original Message - From: Jeff Shanab [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Sent: Tuesday, October 04, 2005 11:23 AM Subject: PFC20 acceptance voltage set point I have been trying to get the acceptance voltage set and I have noticed that this is not a firm point. If the amperage is at 8 that the voltage is detected way earlier than if I turn the current down to 2 amps, the limit light goes back off and it will run another hour before it hits that point. I understand this just to be the side effect of chargeing agaisnt a soft load? where the voltage depends on the current. If I charge slower. will I get a better charge?. Does this issue go away when I get my regulators? At present I am manually monitoring the batteries that always fill first and turning the amps down to 1.5 when it reaches 14.77. The pack is getting really close to being in balance now. ps why 8 amps only? Because I could't find an ammeter in fresno on a saturday that read more than 5 amps or had less than 5 amp divisions :-( This problem is solved. I ordered a ampmeter just for the charger from evparts. ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- No I ru it solo... the first couple of times I try to have somebody around. Joe and I do most of the hard break through type work, then I push it solo. That's the way things work around here. I have my 999 BSD meter installed now.. I don't have to do the Kwhr math in my head now. Rich Rudman Manzanita Micro - Original Message - From: Gordon Niessen [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Sent: Tuesday, October 04, 2005 11:28 AM Subject: Re: happieness is 36,000 watts Do you have someone standing by the main breaker when you start that thing? And maybe a fire truck? It seems like you would want a safety crew, rather then a late night solo event. Looks like you could put that capstone turbine to work and be looking for move. You could really warm up Goldies lead with that too. Back-to-Back runs with a full charge. :-) Congratz At 10/3/2005 11:13 PM, you wrote: Yea... a pile of Nichrome Glowing hot... I have to get some shots of the shop at night with the 75K clocking at 1/2 snort. This is real close to 3 Bucks a hour of Grid power. The whole shop was jumping up about 1.5 Degrees a minute. Clearly the power stage is hanging in there. The power bench marks are falling one by one Madman is having a good time in RD ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Bragging rights well deserved ! Also include a video of your power meter spinning. Its gotta be blazing fast. A cold winter can't be soon enough for you. Danny.. Rich Rudman wrote: Yea... a pile of Nichrome Glowing hot... I have to get some shots of the shop at night
EV digest 4798
than the 35Ah Hawkers - $37 UB12350 35Ah is 7.7 x 5.1 x 7 for $27 on the other end of the scale: 200Ah 12V is 20.5 x 8.1 x 10 for $165 250Ah 12V is 20.5 x 10.5 x 10 for $222 The battery I will be running is the Group 30 UB121100 and I will have a small secondary battery box welded as 22 of these batteries will precisely fill up the original box designed for 52x 35Ah Hawkers. The remaining 4 will go in this shallow box behind the rear axle. I'll let you know the progress and photos in the coming weeks, just to add to the traffic on this list ;-) Keep chargin' Cor van de Water Systems Architect Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com Skype: cor_van_de_waterIM: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925 Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-84-717-9972 Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-501-641-8576 Take your network further http://www.proxim.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.10/120 - Release Date: 05/10/2005 -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.10/120 - Release Date: 05/10/2005 ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Connecting the box to the body of the car doesn't do anything to ground the car if the box isn't grounded either. Is the car ( or the box, since they are connected together) connected to earth ground ( the green wire from your outlet) ? You need a ground wire connected to the car body ( and, preferably, a GFI, also) , so the car can't become hot relative to ground. If it did, it would be dangerous for you and any one else who could come into contact with the car while it was plugged in. Phil From: Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Subject: Re: DLS-55 ready to install. Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2005 01:08:17 -0700 The box is connected to the body of the car. LR - Original Message - From: Phil Marino [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Sent: Wednesday, October 05, 2005 4:57 PM Subject: RE: DLS-55 ready to install. Are you somehow grounding ( earth ground) the body of the car? If not, then you are at risk if there is a failure somewhere and the car body becomes hot with respect to ground -- unless there is a GFI in the power line to the charger - and, in the power line of every other piece of equipment that has 120 or 240 AC fed to it. I may have missed it, but why are you not using the ground line to ground the box and car body? Phil From: Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: DLS-55 ready to install. Date: Wed, 5 Oct 2005 16:08:53 -0700 I've been using the DLS with AC power to keep the aux battery charged. I've made up a plug and will use just the hot neutral. No ground. The DLS is mounted to the frame of the car. Any other concerns? I'm hooking it up to the controller so it will be on while running the car. I may unplug while charging and plug back into the ac line. There is going to be a precharge resistor. I am going to hook that up to the bypass relay. Lawrence Rhodes _ Dont just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search! http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/ ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- 11 of them in one big lot. Would be interesting if any listers live nearby, could buy them and then resell parts, if the parts are useable on ordinary vehicles. If there are 2 motors per bus, maybe 1 motor is a decent size for a car or truck. And there's a capstone turbine involved too. On 10/5/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: ...with no reserve: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=4580089617 ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- We do have anti-virus software. So take us off your list! Bill Sharon Hoopes [EMAIL PROTECTED] [Original Message] From: Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Date: 10/6/2005 1:32:17 AM Subject: Attn Eathlink Customer,you have a virus (was Re: Emailing: 655.html The email to the EVDL claiming to come from Sharron Hoopes was actually from an Earthlink customer. If you have the following people in your email contacts, then you are probably the one with the virus: Chris Christine [EMAIL PROTECTED] (address edited to prevent spam) Daniel Rivest [EMAIL PROTECTED] Jerry dors Labine [EMAIL PROTECTED] mischsteyla.com [EMAIL PROTECTED] qof_4 [EMAIL PROTECTED] If you don't have anti-virus software, or it's out of date, please get up to date anti-virus protection. There is no excuse for not having anti-virus software, there are numerous free products available for home use. -- If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has 4 lines
EV digest 4799
them. I'll ask too, but if you get it, could you please contact me (ac_at_metricmind.com) and let me know? Thank you in advance! BTW, will Zivan program their charger for Ovonics' for you if you ask them? Victor Noel P. Luneau wrote: Hi Victor, When I contacted Zivan USA they said they have a charging profile for Ovonics. I'm hoping to have 15 of my 30 13.2v's in my Force. Solectria must have the charging profile as they used them in the Force for awhile. There is a document on the Internet when two Forces, EV15 and EVHQ were tested. No charging profiles but interesting reading. I'll let you know if I can get the charger and controller reprogrammed. Noel ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- David Dymaxion wrote: Now for the disagree part: Look at White Zombie now, knocking on the 11's door! To first order, AC and DC are pretty close in performance. Yes, the AC motor may rev twice as high, but it'll only have 1/2 the torque then -- there is no free lunch. That means the tranny can be lighter (not so heavy duty) for AC system, because there is no danger to break something with too high DC torque, and still deliver the same hp. -- Victor '91 ACRX - something different ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Lee Hart wrote: ... UL places no limits on what manufacturers can build, or on what they can sell. They have no authority to do so. But, your local community may have written local ordinances that *do* require listed electrical equipment. Los Angeles and Chicago have done this. Interesting. Is a local community being legal entity in the eyes of law? What is definition of local community. If I build (convert) EVs for sale in my garage which is physically located in this community (neighborhood, city) but my business oficially registered (And lo located) in Delaware (where the sale transaction happened from), do I care about local decisions? (I really do, I mean legally). -- Victor '91 ACRX - something different ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- As far as I know, these things are not rated for continuous duty. Victor Robert Chew wrote: HI all, Has anyone used a car starter solenoid as a contactor before. I saw one at the local auto shop the other day, 12V - 200A and that's it. It looks very beefy at the terminals, weigh in at about 500grams. And cost a hell of a lot less than the contactors from Albright etc Just want to know opinions Cheers -- Victor '91 ACRX - something different ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- I'm not sure what one has to do with the other, however, if you want off the EV Discussion List you have to unsubscribe yourself. To sign off from the list, send and email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] with the following in the body of the email: unsubscribe EV We do have anti-virus software. So take us off your list! Bill Sharon Hoopes [EMAIL PROTECTED] [Original Message] From: Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Date: 10/6/2005 1:32:17 AM Subject: Attn Eathlink Customer,you have a virus (was Re: Emailing: 655.html The email to the EVDL claiming to come from Sharron Hoopes was actually from an Earthlink customer. If you have the following people in your email contacts, then you are probably the one with the virus: Chris Christine [EMAIL PROTECTED] (address edited to prevent spam) Daniel Rivest [EMAIL PROTECTED] Jerry dors Labine [EMAIL PROTECTED] mischsteyla.com [EMAIL PROTECTED] qof_4 [EMAIL PROTECTED] If you don't have anti-virus software, or it's out of date, please get up to date anti-virus protection. There is no excuse for not having anti-virus software, there are numerous free products available for home use. -- If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has 4 lines of legalistic junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long legalistic signature is void. -- If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has 4 lines of legalistic junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long legalistic signature is void. ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Connected it up and it works fine. Lawrence Rhodes... - Original Message - From: Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Sent: Thursday, October 06, 2005 1:08 AM Subject: Re: DLS-55 ready to install. The box is connected to the body of the car. LR - Original Message - From: Phil Marino [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Sent: Wednesday, October 05, 2005 4:57 PM Subject: RE: DLS-55 ready to install. Are you somehow grounding ( earth ground) the body of the car? If not, then you are at risk if there is a failure somewhere and the car body becomes hot with respect to ground -- unless there is a GFI in the power line to the charger - and, in the power
EV digest 4800
EV Digest 4800 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: DLS-55 ready to install - safely grounded? by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Re: DLS-55 ready to install. by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Re: Crimp versus solder by David Roden [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Re: AGM battery bulk order: $85 for 110Ah 12V by Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) A though on Hybrid design down and dirty. by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Re: Crimp versus solder by Eric Poulsen [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Re: Crimp versus solder by Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) Re: Cruise control in EVision by Rush [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Re: Cruise control in EVision by Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Re: PFC20 Acceptance voltage set point by Rich Rudman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Re: Ovonic's NiMH battery info needed by Noel P. Luneau [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Re: Ovonic's NiMH battery info needed by Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) Re: happieness is 36,000 watts by Rich Rudman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Re: High- and Low-Votage Charging by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Need advice on a Porsche conversion candidate by David (Battery Boy) Hawkins [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) Re: MILLI-ohm meter, was: Cable Crimping Tools by Danny Miller [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) Re: Ovonic's NiMH battery info needed by Ricky Suiter [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) Re: MILLI-ohm meter, was: Cable Crimping Tools by David (Battery Boy) Hawkins [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) RE: Separate 12volt chargers by Robert Chew [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) Battery Isolator by Robert Chew [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) Re: Need advice on a Porsche conversion candidate by David Dymaxion [EMAIL PROTECTED] 22) 12V parts misused, was: Re: Battery Isolator by James Massey [EMAIL PROTECTED] 23) Re: Cable Crimping Tools by mike golub [EMAIL PROTECTED] 24) Re: exploded battery by Nick Austin [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- I have my Charger connected normally. Lawrence Rhodes... - Original Message - From: Phil Marino [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Sent: Thursday, October 06, 2005 5:15 AM Subject: Re: DLS-55 ready to install - safely grounded? Connecting the box to the body of the car doesn't do anything to ground the car if the box isn't grounded either. Is the car ( or the box, since they are connected together) connected to earth ground ( the green wire from your outlet) ? You need a ground wire connected to the car body ( and, preferably, a GFI, also) , so the car can't become hot relative to ground. If it did, it would be dangerous for you and any one else who could come into contact with the car while it was plugged in. Phil From: Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Subject: Re: DLS-55 ready to install. Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2005 01:08:17 -0700 The box is connected to the body of the car. LR - Original Message - From: Phil Marino [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Sent: Wednesday, October 05, 2005 4:57 PM Subject: RE: DLS-55 ready to install. Are you somehow grounding ( earth ground) the body of the car? If not, then you are at risk if there is a failure somewhere and the car body becomes hot with respect to ground -- unless there is a GFI in the power line to the charger - and, in the power line of every other piece of equipment that has 120 or 240 AC fed to it. I may have missed it, but why are you not using the ground line to ground the box and car body? Phil From: Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: DLS-55 ready to install. Date: Wed, 5 Oct 2005 16:08:53 -0700 I've been using the DLS with AC power to keep the aux battery charged. I've made up a plug and will use just the hot neutral. No ground. The DLS is mounted to the frame of the car. Any other concerns? I'm hooking it up to the controller so it will be on while running the car. I may unplug while charging and plug back into the ac line. There is going to be a precharge resistor. I am going to hook that up to the bypass relay. Lawrence Rhodes _ Don't just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search! http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/ ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- I am connecting it to the controller. Seems I'll need a pricharge resistor of maybe a higher value or maybe lower to protect the contactor. I was going to use 200 ohms. What value should I use now? Leave it alone? Now I'm not sure. - Original Message - From: Eric Poulsen [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Sent: Thursday, October 06, 2005 7:44 AM Subject: Re: DLS-55 ready to install. Lawrence -- I guess you noticed
EV digest 4801
'light' alloy rims are made for racing and they cost a bundle. The only efficiency difference you would see is during acceleration, not during steady speed cruising. Calculating efficiency differences for rotating masses under acceleration is way beyond me. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of mike golub Sent: Thursday, October 06, 2005 2:19 PM To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Subject: wheels tires I read some stuff about the rolling resistance about the tires, but I was thinking if I got some light weight alloy rims, how much does that help with efficiency? Is there a formula? Are those alloy rims just a cosmetic thing? __ Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 http://mail.yahoo.com ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- I was going to e-mail off line, but I think this may be of interest to a variety of people: Lee, I am really impressed with the elegance of the zener-lamp battery regulator (while understandfing its limitations.) I'm going to make a few for a variety of uses as a first step. My question is this: should the zeners be sunk down into the lug/heatsinks? Or should ithey protrude somewhat? I'm thinking that completely encasing it in epoxy would probably be best for heat sink purposes, but since I actually have no idea what I'm doing, I thought I'd ask. Also - are there any picture of the completed units on the net anywhere for viewing? ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Possible Honda EV bike: http://www.gizmag.com/go/4712/ -- Paul Wujek ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- $8000 will get you about 19 6V Saft NiCads of 100Ah capacity. But there might be other options from them. Did Lawrence Rhodes sell his 40Ah nicads? GP makes nice NIMH. They might even be cheaper than SAFT. In a variety of EV sized from 10Ah to 80 and 100Ah. Ocean freight won't be cheap, but at least you don't have to do the Panama canal. Seth On Oct 6, 2005, at 6:20 PM, Jonathan Sheer Pullen wrote: Well, First of all, let me say that I'm back - did you all miss me? Until fairly recently, both qm and my Rad2Go were reliable electric transportation*, and I was too busy with other things to do much EV work. However, in the last few weeks, the battery pack on QM has declined in storage capacity and reliability enormously. First one battery, then many dropped from 12 to 10 volts, as if dendrite formation had shorted out cells. For those of you not familiar with QM, it is a AC drive Honda Accord that was powered by NiZn batteries known as 'Evercells'. The company that made these is no longer in business, so I am looking for another nickel-based pack as a replacement. I would like to use either NiCad or NiMH - or possibly, if the price is right, LiPoly or Lion. I'm budgeting about $8k for this pack replacement, and I'd like to use something that's likely to last more than three years. Any and all suggestions welcome. * = [it should be noted here that both have had downtime for various repairs and replacements.. the Rad2Go has had the throttle assembly and headlight replaced and the motor controller repaired. ] ___ Evtech mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://mailman.evtech.org/mailman/listinfo/evtech ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- I had the same response. Yahoo always gets the adds out even if nothing else. What is a Group_Check ? On Oct 6, 2005, at 2:15 PM, Electric Vehicle Discussion List wrote: From: Nick Austin [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: October 6, 2005 1:49:26 PM PDT To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Subject: Re: exploded battery On Wed, Oct 05, 2005 at 07:15:13PM -0600, Tim Humphrey wrote: I snapped some pics last night of the battery that I had explode. It blew up a couple years ago, so the pic makes it seem in a lot worse shape (older) than it was at the time. It actually was only a year old when it blew. It is at http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/ev/lst?.dir=/exploded+battery http://tinyurl.com/cp3as Stay Charged! Hump I get the following when attempting to view this image: Error GROUP_CHECK gpg5.bc.scd.yahoo.com:GROUP_CHECK Fortunately, they did manage to serve a full screen advertisement with this error message :) ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- David, I do not have this on my E-10. I wonder if it's something I can buy at an electronics store or something I need to buy from Solectria. The other thing is E-10's have 2 controllers and thus 2 db25's. How would you connect that up? Jacob Harris From: David Roden [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Thu, 06 Oct 2005 12:30:55 -0400 To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Subject: Re: Solectria E-10 stalling It could be a dirty or loose connection causing an error condition to arise. Maybe when things flex round in the driveline, a loose connection opens momentarily and the controller gets upset. Do you have the error LED installed? It connects
EV digest 4802
to have to pay for this truck, is it a good first EV for a duffer, and is it easily repairable by a Sunday mechanic. Thanks for your assistance, Bruce McClure ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- This is the Second EV grin.When the world notices... 2.414 cents a mile WHAT??? Kinda wakes the SUV monster truck Rednecks up a bit. Madman It's not raining... I should be Goldie bound. Joe has Dared me to hook up the 75K to Goldie. Lets try for a 5 minute charge cycle Er How big a charger fuse.400 amps.? And ... the Regbuss better be on line for that kind of charge power. - Original Message - From: Jeff Shanab [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Sent: Monday, October 03, 2005 11:00 PM Subject: Underestimated public reaction Well It happened to me. I took the nissan over to the dealer to get a part for it. Somewhere in the conversatioin with the parts guy I let it slip that it was now electric and he wanted to come out and take a look. So I showed him. A mechanic walks by and does a true double-take. Then off to kragens for a different part(waste of time) back to the dealer for said part(also a waste of time) but while I was talking to the parts guy the service manager comes up and asks if he can open the hood and show it to a few people. I said ok and let him know it was un-latched. Then realized I had better get out there before some pokeing fingers finds 200V. There were 10-15 people and I could hear the manager paging people to the area. Of course the crowd drew more onlookers. What was a pleasent surprize was no generator on wheel questions. Actually, only 1 range question. The dominate question was how fast? and how much HP? I think this is a side effect of it being a 300zx, people expect it to be fast. How I would have loved to john wayland it out of the parking lot but... we are not ready. Anyhow, I was quite late for my doctors appointment. Word of advice, allow extra time the SECOND time you go someplace public. The Word gets around. ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- You have to expect to replace the battery pack, lead acid pack replacement will be around $3,000 or so. If I were bidding on it, I'd probably offer 6K to 8K depending on other factors (charging system etc). Lynn -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, October 07, 2005 9:38 AM To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Subject: Re: s-10 value Greetings list, I apologize for not listing which S-10 that I have a chance to buy. I don't know the year, but it has a 3 phase AC liquid cooled 85KW motor, a Comrad wireless Data Link, a Magna Charger and a Delco Syste 110 Inverter Module. I imagine that the battery pack is toast due to storage and maintenance problems. I have wanted to have an electric vehicle for some time, and in my lurking on the list, it seems that the S10-E is a well respected vehicle. The only problem is that I have to make an offer, and I don't even know where to start. The vehicle has 3500 miles on it, so I can deduce that not many of the moving parts are worn out, but assuming that the battery pack is shot, how much could that cost to replace, and with what? It has a Magna Charger but I assume that I will have to get the stationary part-are they available? If anyone can help me out with this I would be very grateful. I have only about a week to decide and make my offer. Bruce McClure ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Hi, I'm a newbie to the list and I'm building an EV with an 80-90 mile range. I'm thinking of using a Toyota Celica or a Saturn with 312V system due to the good drag and low weight. Has anyone done a conversion with one of these or have a suggestion of a better donor? I had the idea using this Bill's design to build 1 charger per battery allow independent regulation of each battery. Back of the envelope cost to build each one (assuming quantity 10) would be: $25 transformer $10-15 160,000 mf capacitor $4 power transistors $2 LM317 $10 blank board $10 misc ? case ~$75 total So if you have a 312V pack the charger would cost ~$1,900 and you would have to design a float circuit also. Probably not worth it unless you have a source of cheap transformer with that fancy secondary. -Robert ---End Message---
EV digest 4803
EV Digest 4803 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: value of S-10 by Ricky Suiter [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) FREE Cushman Truckster near Sacramento by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Lester Charger by Ross Henderson [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Re: Solectria E-10 stalling by David Roden [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Re: List Admin - was Re: Emailing: 655.html by David Roden [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Re: Increasing charging current of Cheap 12 volt switched charger by David Roden [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) No html or attachments please by David Roden [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) Re: Precharge resistor with DLS -55/controller. by David Roden [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Re: s-10 value by David Roden [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Re: Lester Charger by David Roden [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Re: Increasing charging current of Cheap 12 volt switched charger by John Lussmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) RE: Increasing charging current of Cheap 12 volt switched charger by Robert Chew [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) 72vdc Altrax car conversion. by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Modified bad boy design questions by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Re: Crimp versus solder (was: Cable Crimping Tools) by Martin Klingensmith [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) Dragster crash photos from Speedworld (OT) by David Chapman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) RE: Increasing charging current of Cheap 12 volt switched charger by David Roden [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) Re: s-10 value by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) Wanted: dead 20+ HP outboard for electric boat by Seth Allen [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) Weeping battery tops/Floodies by Bob Bath [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) Re: MagneCharger inlet on eBay by Chris Zach [EMAIL PROTECTED] 22) RE: Details of the Lee Hart Zener-Lamp regulator by stU [EMAIL PROTECTED] 23) Re: Wanted: dead 20+ HP outboard for electric boat by jerry dycus [EMAIL PROTECTED] 24) Re: Modified bad boy design questions by James Massey [EMAIL PROTECTED] 25) Re: Weeping battery tops/Floodies by James Massey [EMAIL PROTECTED] 26) RE: Details of the Lee Hart Zener-Lamp regulator by James Massey [EMAIL PROTECTED] 27) Lee Hart's zener lamp regulator by kluge [EMAIL PROTECTED] 28) Re: Dragster crash photos from Speedworld (OT) by Ryan Stotts [EMAIL PROTECTED] 29) Re: s-10 value by Ricky Suiter [EMAIL PROTECTED] 30) Re: MagneCharger inlet on eBay by Ricky Suiter [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- We are talking the production truck here right? EVBones (www.evbones.com) sells refurbished trucks with warranty. 97's are $20,000 and 98's are $25,000. These all have good battery packs, everything is clean, they are perfect. I've seen some of their trucks in person, they're all very nice. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:Greetings from a lurker- I have been given the opportunity to buy a GM S-10 pickup with only 3500 miles on it. I have absolutely no idea whether or not it runs, or what shape the battery pack is in, but I do know that the body looks just like a 3500 mile body should. My questions are: What can I expect to have to pay for this truck, is it a good first EV for a duffer, and is it easily repairable by a Sunday mechanic. Thanks for your assistance, Bruce McClure - Yahoo! for Good Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort. ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Do not contact me. I'm just passing this on. Lawrence Rhodes Message: 2 Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2005 12:59:42 -0700 (GMT-07:00) From: David Russel [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: FREE Cushman near Sacramento From the microcar list, a relevant freebie: Do not contact me! The following add is on Craig's List (www.craigslist.org) for Sacramento as a free item. You can cut [EMAIL PROTECTED] and paste it in the TO line of your email. cushman truckster 1976 FREE Reply to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: 2005-10-05, 9:56PM PDT i have a cushman truckster and i hope it still works but some vandals have broke the front windsheild and rear window and stole the batterie and im shure it still works but but it still needs gas because they triped it over and all the gas came out the car uses premium gas and it is a 1976 cushman truckster so take it now before thay do more to it HURRY!! p.s. i was storing it on some nearby land and they just vandalised it its a good car you might have to put in 100 dllars at the most for the glass and the baterie do not email if you cant tow it!! it needs to go * this is in or around winters * no -- it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests Sincerely, David Lawrence Rhodes Bassoon/Contrabassoon Reedmaker Book 4/5 doubler Electric Vehicle Solar Power Advocate 415-821-3519 [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage---
EV digest 4805
EV Digest 4805 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Lee Hart's zener lamp regulator kluge by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Re: Suggestions for genset. by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Re: 12 VOLT SWITCHMODE 12AMP FULLY AUTO CHARGER (CHEAP!!) by mike golub [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Re: 12 VOLT SWITCHMODE 12AMP FULLY AUTO CHARGER (CHEAP!!) by Neon John [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Re: 48v charge controller by Joe Smalley [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Re: 72vdc Altrax car conversion. by Stefano Landi [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Re: Separate 12volt chargers by Joe Smalley [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) RE: Lee Hart's zener lamp regulator kluge by stU [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) RE: Separate 12volt chargers by Robert Chew [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Re: Separate 12volt chargers by Evan Tuer [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Any life in old forklift nicads? by Tim Stephenson [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Friend needs advice on his 79 Lectric Leopard by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) Thesis comments by Robert Chew [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Re: Lee Hart's zener lamp regulator kluge by Paul G. [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) RE: Lee Hart's zener lamp regulator kluge by stU [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) Re: Lee Hart's zener lamp regulator kluge by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) Re: Friend needs advice on his 79 Lectric Leopard by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) Re: Lee Hart's zener lamp regulator kluge by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) Re: Any life in old forklift nicads? by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) Re: Friend needs advice on his 79 Lectric Leopard by David Roden (Akron OH USA) [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) RE: Lee Hart's zener lamp regulator kluge by Roger Stockton [EMAIL PROTECTED] 22) RE: Weeping battery tops/Floodies by Roger Stockton [EMAIL PROTECTED] 23) OT: Driverless cars are here by Roy LeMeur [EMAIL PROTECTED] 24) EV Rookie by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 25) Electric Cobra on eBay by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 26) RE: Weeping battery tops/Floodies by David Roden (Akron OH USA) [EMAIL PROTECTED] 27) Re: Any life in old forklift nicads? by David Roden (Akron OH USA) [EMAIL PROTECTED] 28) Re: Friend needs advice on his 79 Lectric Leopard by jerry dycus [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- John Luck Home wrote: I've still not worked out whether I can use this system as I am concerned what happens when on regen as my pack terminal volts is +20% when braking. That's what the lamp is for. With two 6.8v zeners and a PR2 lamp, the voltage across your battery has to go up past (2 x 6.8v) + 2.5v = 16.1v before the regulator itself is at risk. And if your batteries are getting past 16v, *they* are at serious risk! I'd set things up so if any regulator lights while driving, the light causes the controller to cut back or abort regen! -- Never doubt that the work of a small group of thoughtful, committed citizens can change the world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever has! -- Margaret Mead -- Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- I read about the Long Ranger by AC Propulsion.. They do it with 20 kw 500 cc motorcycle motor 360 pounds total trailer weight, 60 amps at 300 volts. . I figure I can take off 50 pounds for the trailer. 300 pounds wouldn't be bad. I have the springs for it. I figure the Electravan Might do 100 amps at a low speed on level ground no head wind. This is going to be harder than I thought. If I am at 120vdc 120 amps will be equalivent to what Long ranger does at higher voltage. It really is a very well thought out design. I don't know if I can equal AC Propulsion's alternator design. Lawrence Rhodes Bassoon/Contrabassoon Reedmaker Book 4/5 doubler Electric Vehicle Solar Power Advocate 415-821-3519 [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- How do you charge a 144volt car with $350 charger? Two of those would do a 144 volt car for under $350. Where do we get it? what's the product number? --- Neon John [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: On Sat, 8 Oct 2005 20:23:52 +1000, Robert Chew [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hey Dave, and the rest, Ok, so I get the point!! Hahaha. How bout this charger. Switchmode, 12volt @ 12 amps and cost 79.95 each Aussie dollars. I can possibly get it less. www.jaycar.com.au - under batteries and chargers and under chargers. Sorry, no patience to wade through that site to find the charger you're referring to. THE BEST 12 volt charger I've ever had in my lab is the Vector smart charger. Available in capacities from 10 to 40 amps, they all execute a textbook perfect 3 stage charge cycle. Here is an example on amazon: http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B9RB0T/104-2823148-7226312?v=glance Amazon is not the cheapest place to buy. Probably
EV digest 4807
EV Digest 4807 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Suggestions for genset. by Danny Miller [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Re: happieness is 36,000 watts by Ben Apollonio [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) RE: Bracket Racing White Zombie to a 12.151 @ 106.25 mph World Re cord! by Cor van de Water [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Re: Bracket Racing White Zombie to a 12.151 @ 106.25 mph World Record! by James Massey [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Re: 180 V Circuit Breaker by James Massey [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Re: Any life in old forklift nicads? by Evan Tuer [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Re: Any life in old forklift nicads? by Tim Stephenson [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) 6 Volt AGM battery by Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3) [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Re: Lawless Industries Zero Mower to take on world's best at Internatioanl Lawn, Garden, Power Equipment Expo next week by STEVE CLUNN [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Battery Equaliser by Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3) [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Re: Any life in old forklift nicads? by Evan Tuer [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Albright contactor by Robert Chew [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) Re: Those Allbright contactors by STEVE CLUNN [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Re: 180 V Circuit Breaker by Rush [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Re: Bracket Racing White Zombie to a 12.151 @ 106.25 mph World Record! by Jim Husted [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) Re: Bracket Racing White Zombie to a 12.151 @ 106.25 mph World Record! by John Wayland [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- That Capstone microturbine C30HEV with built-in generator and controller at 29KW of electricity would do it, but I don't know how thrifty it would be to find one in working condition. http://www.capstoneturbine.com/Documents/C30hev.pdf As noted, there seem to be popping up from scrapped buses but they're often being left outdoors in poor conditions and might not work reliably. At a specific fuel consumption of 0.56 lb/hp-hr it's pretty impressive when we're talking about electrical hp output, not just mechanical shaft power. I still want one. With the proper inverter electronics that thing would be a kick-ass generator for 120vac and 220vac at remote sites as well as being able to power a vehicle. Danny Lawrence Rhodes wrote: All you charger guys. What should I use to give me 150 amps at 144vdc continous? I'm not sure weather to use propane or biodiesel. Those are my two favorite fuels. I've given up on CNG. Tanks are too big. What is durable thrifty? Thanks for any info. Lawrence Rhodes ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Ah, it's a good day when a man's charging capabilities are limited by his household's available power instead of his battery charger. Although, with that much power on hand, why waste it heating your shop? Get a big extension cord and take Goldie for a spin :) Set some NEDRA records for fastest grid-powered EV. Bob Rice would probably challenge that, but locomotives are rather difficult to drag race... Yea... a pile of Nichrome Glowing hot... I have to get some shots of the shop at night with the 75K clocking at 1/2 snort. This is real close to 3 Bucks a hour of Grid power. The whole shop was jumping up about 1.5 Degrees a minute. Clearly the power stage is hanging in there. The power bench marks are falling one by one Madman is having a good time in RD ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Hi John, I think it has been commented before that the street tires of White Zombie are wrinkling on the first bite on taking off, as can be seen in the video that starts with the sparking brush, followed by a good take-off. What struck me when looking frame for frame was that the first movement of the car appeared to be the left rear wheel shooting forward by more than an inch (the right rear wheel changes angle, but not position) followed by the right rear wheel biting and shooting forward too, including wrinkling. It seems that the power from the motor gets to the left rear wheel earlier than to the right side one, I cannot explain why one side would not move while the other is already more than one inch ahead. Has this effect been noticed on other videos? Regards, Cor van de Water Systems Architect Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com Skype: cor_van_de_waterIM: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925 Fax: +1 408 731 3673 eFAX: +31-84-717-9972 Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-501-641-8576 Take your network further http://www.proxim.com -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of John Wayland Sent: Saturday, October 08, 2005 7:27 PM To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Subject: Bracket Racing White Zombie to a 12.151 @ 106.25 mph World Record! Hello to All, It’s been more then a week since our successful racing night where Tim Brehm powered White Zombie
EV digest 4808
EV Digest 4808 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Battery heaters for racing? by Chris Tromley [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Regen Theory on SepEx by Mark Hanson [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Batteries Weeping by Nawaz Qureshi [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Re: Bracket Racing White Zombie to a 12.151 @ 106.25 mph World Record! by Rich Rudman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Re: 180 V Circuit Breaker by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Re: 180 V Circuit Breaker by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Re: Weeping battery tops/Floodies by STEVE CLUNN [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) EM kit proposal (long) by Chris Tromley [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Orbital/Optima/Intimidator dimensions by Chris Tromley [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) electric pickup by Rich [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Re: Regen Theory on SepEx by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Newby question about battery arrangement by kluge [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) Re: Regen Theory on SepEx by Rod Hower [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) RE: Orbital/Optima/Intimidator dimensions by Matthew D. Graham [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) RE: electric pickup by Robert Stalnaker [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) RE: electric pickup by Ricky Suiter [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) Re: electric pickup by Rush [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) Re: Newby question about battery arrangement by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) ZERO Electric Mower website back up by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) Re: Any life in old forklift nicads? by Chris Zach [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) Tidalforce electric light division shut down by Ken Trough [EMAIL PROTECTED] 22) Re: Batteries Weeping by Bob Bath [EMAIL PROTECTED] 23) Advanced DC FB1-4001A 19HP Electric Motor on E-Bay by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 24) DC to DC by Michaela Merz [EMAIL PROTECTED] 25) Re: Orbital/Optima/Intimidator dimensions by Ben [EMAIL PROTECTED] 26) Ovonic NiMH battery is available by Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED] 27) Suggestions on new Force by Noel P. Luneau [EMAIL PROTECTED] 28) Re: s-10 value by Jim Coate [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- Vacation tip: Always stay somewhere with an internet connection. After returning from a week off last labor day, I was so far behind on reading the list that I've just now caught up And the top news of the day? An electric door-slammer is threatening to break into the 11's! Wow. Big congratulations to John Wayland and everyone involved with his effort. You guys are putting on quite a show. One thing I've noticed in the descriptions of these events is that the fast times only come at the end of the night. The reason usually given is that the batteries need to warm up. Is that true? I mean, wouldn't it be a huge advantage to be able to spend the whole night at the track knowing your batteries would perform consistently from run to run? Battery heaters are pretty available, low cost, light weight, some are pretty thin (so as not to mess up an existing rack setup) and can even be tightly controlled with some off-the-shelf hardware. Or do the batteries gain enough heat on each run that they won't cool between runs? Even that seems like a manageable problem. Maybe temperature management would offer enough gains to warrant some effort? Or not? Chris ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Hi, I've always used/built series chopper controls and battery chargers in the past so this regen to zero operation on my Curtis SepEx 72V Bombardier control is a bit fuzzy. So I need some help in understanding what's going on. I put the ARM and FIELD on an O'scope and accelerated with the acel pot peddle and decelerated with the regen pot brake peddle looking at the waveforms. I also have a +- current meter on the battery pack to see load and regen mode. The armature PWM's at 20kHz to the throttle demand as expected. On accel, the field is PWM's with the arm increasing duty cycle on the arm and decreasing duty cycle on the field as speed increases, somewhat as expected but the field *never* gets more than 50% at start. The field *does not* reverse during regen and slowing down *but* the PWM increases near zero speed from about 20% on-time duty cycle to 50% duty cycle when regen to 0 speed. The arm *decreases* pwm while the field *increases* pwm on time during regen as the speed decreases. The field pwm *never* hits 100% on time though and does not reverse during regen (only when reversing vehicle direction of course). So from Lee's example of Arm Voltage = K x FieldCurrent x Speed: The motor is probably wound with excessive field turns in order to boost the voltage over the 72V battery pack while slowing down. I can't figure out though how it's boosting the voltage over 72V to charge the battery when the motor is slowing down to a stop, say running a 5mph equivelent 12V operation. The schematic appears to be
EV digest 4809
EV Digest 4809 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: DC to DC by Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) RE: Battery Equaliser by stU [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Re: 180 V Circuit Breaker by Jimmy Argon [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Re: Ovonic NiMH battery is available by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Tidalforce letter to dealers by Ken Trough [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Re: ZERO Electric Mower website back up by STEVE CLUNN [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Re: Battery Equaliser by Tim Stephenson [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) Re: Ovonic NiMH battery is available by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Re: Any life in old forklift nicads? by David Roden [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Re: Battery Equaliser by David Roden [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Re: happieness is 36,000 watts by Joe Smalley [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Re: 180 V Circuit Breaker by James Massey [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) Re: Battery Equaliser by Danny Miller [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Re: Ovonic NiMH battery is available by David Williams [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) UNSUBSCRIBE by Alex Joel [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) Re: ZERO Electric Mower website back up by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) Re: Suggestions on new Force by Mike Chancey [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) Challenging Drive by Mark Hanson [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) Re: Regen Theory on SepEx by Mark Hanson [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) Re: 180 V Circuit Breaker by Rod Hower [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) RE: Challenging Drive by Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3) [EMAIL PROTECTED] 22) Re: Battery Equaliser by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 23) RE: Bracket Racing White Zombie to a 12.151 @ 106.25 mph World Re cord! by Tim Humphrey [EMAIL PROTECTED] 24) RE: DC to DC by Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3) [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- Michaela Merz wrote: Hello everybody: I am looking for a nice (= powerful) DC-to-DC solution for input voltages between 120 V and 156 V, output 200w Define nice a bit better. $359 250W DCDC250/144/14 may be your good choice, see http://www.metricmind.com/dcdc.htm Victor ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- ADX-2 was advertised in the 1950's. Claimed that the National Bureau of Standards and the US Navy used and endorsed it. Total fraud. stU (I think that it was baking soda.) -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3) Sent: Monday, October 10, 2005 7:49 AM To: 'ev@listproc.sjsu.edu' Subject: Battery Equaliser Has anyone used this stuff? Does it really work? http://www.batteryequaliser.com ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- All, I want to apologize for my email and pictures I intended solely for Rush. I am new to the site and did not realize that when I select reply the email is addressed to the address in to. Oh well, too late now. To answer your questions James, I did test the switch. In racing you have to be able to disconnect a runaway motor in the event of a crash (a short will blow the fuse). I tested it several times at a minimum of 300 amps, 144 volts. There was a nice blue arc every time, just as one would expect - unless you have it submerged in a non conductive/inert gas or liquid. The switch performed well after the tests and I have been using it for 12 years. (You can see the vehicle at http://www.dm3electrics.com/ the switch is sticking out of the hood - driver side.) There was carbon arcing but the area was easily cleaned. As I told Rush (and everybody else unfortunately), I did not invent this switch, it has been around for many years. I have a 1981 Jet Electrica and a very small version of this was used as the emergency cut off, the contact area is no bigger than your finger tip. In that application the toggle was hot. I can send you (james) a picture of it if you like. Also, my arc welder is much messier down at its lowest setting (20amps). The pictures were of the basic contact portion the builder can add springs and limits as needed. If this switch is used, surround it with an insulating box or shroud. Sorry again all, Jimmy --- James Massey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi Jimmy, Rush and all At 09:30 PM 9/10/05 -0700, Jimmy Argon wrote: Rush, This is one of those parts I cant afford and build better ones myself. I attached photos of a switch Jimmy, it would have been better to send those pics direct to Rush, but seeing as you didn't I guess you've left yourself open to comments. I don't mean to be rude, but have you fully tested this switch to the limits of your comment? that can handle hundreds of volts and amps. Um.. hundreds of volts and amps? Have you tried to break one of these switches at, say 48V and 100A? (wear shaded glasses and have another means to disconnect - think arc welding). Once you have succesfully broken that voltage and current, please let us
EV digest 4810
EV Digest 4810 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Regen Theory on SepEx by Mark Hanson [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Re: Lawless Industries Zero Mower to take on world's best at Internatioanl Lawn, Garden, Power Equipment Expo next week by Bob Rice [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Re: ZERO Electric Mower website back up by STEVE CLUNN [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Re: 180 V Circuit Breaker by Andre' Blanchard [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Re: Bracket Racing White Zombie to a 12.151 @ 106.25 mph World Record! by John Wayland [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) RE: Bracket Racing White Zombie to a 12.151 @ 106.25 mph World Re cord! by Tim Humphrey [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) RE: Crimp versus solder (was: Cable Crimping Tools) by Cor van de Water [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) Electric Insight ?? by Steven Lough [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Re: Electric Insight ?? by Evan Tuer [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) RE: TS Undervoltage Detection by Bill Dennis [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Re: DC to DC by Neon John [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Re: ZERO Electric Mower website back up by Gordon Niessen [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) Re: DC to DC by Philippe Borges [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Re: Ovonic NiMH battery is available by Edward Ang [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) RE: Ovonic NiMH battery is available by Bill Dennis [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) RE: Battery Equaliser by Paschke, Stephen [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) Re: DC to DC by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) RE: Simple Diagnostic Circuit by Bill Dennis [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) Re: DC to DC by Eric Poulsen [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) Re: Ovonic NiMH battery is available by Eric Poulsen [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) Re: DC to DC by Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED] 22) Force A/C was Re: Suggestions on new Force by David Chapman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 23) Should I be concerned? by kluge [EMAIL PROTECTED] 24) Ev conversion wiki needs attention by Robert Baertsch [EMAIL PROTECTED] 25) Electronics 101 question by Dave Cover [EMAIL PROTECTED] 26) Re: Ovonic NiMH battery is available by Philippe Borges [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- Hi Rod, Thanks, that's a good article. I don't think I have upper regen fet's though, in looking at GE's similar schematics. I saw them on the fork lift regen controls but not on the golf cart/NEV regen controls, I think because of the higher speeds of golf cart's/NEV's. I think the arm is tied conventionally to a lower chopper Fet, upper to Batt +72V and the motor regens through the lower fet body diode when the field strength is increased. (The only way to know if I have regen fet's I suppose is to take the control apart, as I don't see any change of the waveform as regen occurs). The field is fairly low at 3.2 ohms which leads me to believe that natural regen can occur at low speeds since the motor shunt field is PWM'd and never operated full on. The field PWM starts off at about a 20% duty cycle in normal operation and during regen increases to 50% while the arm pwm is decreasing pulse width. I think this field would probably fry if connected directly to the battery, so it's like, say a 10V field being PWM'd to operate at 72V so when regen is needed, there's plenty of field current increase available to make the armature try to produce more than 72V even at low rpm's *without* extra regen fets. Sounds like a cheap elegant design but never directly connect the field to the battery or a crispy field will result. ArmVoltage = FieldCurrent x Speed . My guess is if I were to directly connect the field to the battery (72V/3.2ohms=22.5A ) I'd probably go through the windshield. Hmmm an experiment for tonight. Thanks, Mark - Original Message - From: Rod Hower [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Sent: Monday, October 10, 2005 3:06 PM Subject: Re: Regen Theory on SepEx Try this link, http://homepages.which.net/~paul.hills/SpeedControl/SpeedControllersBody.html Rod --- Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hello Mark, Here is a WEB site that shows speed control circuits, in many different configurations and the theory of operation: http://homepages.which.net/-paul.hills/SpeedControl/SpeedController.htmlhttp://homepages.which.net/-paul.hills/SpeedControl/SpeedController.html It is 25 pages long if you print it out. Roland - Original Message - From: Mark Hansonmailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edumailto:ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Sent: Monday, October 10, 2005 9:02 AM Subject: Regen Theory on SepEx Hi, I've always used/built series chopper controls and battery chargers in the past so this regen to zero operation on my Curtis SepEx 72V Bombardier control is a bit fuzzy. So I need some help in understanding what's going on. I put the ARM and FIELD on an O'scope and accelerated with the acel pot
EV digest 4811
EV Digest 4811 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: TS Undervoltage Detection by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Re: Ovonic NiMH battery is available by Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Re: Should I be concerned? by Paul G. [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) RE: TS Undervoltage Detection by Bill Dennis [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Re: Electronics 101 question by Mark Grasser [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Re: Electronics 101 question by James Massey [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Re: Electronics 101 question by Eric Poulsen [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) Re: TS Undervoltage Detection by Eric Poulsen [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Re: Ovonic NiMH battery is available by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Re: Should I be concerned? by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Re: Ovonic NiMH battery is available by JonathanSmith [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) electric truck by Calvin King [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) electric pickup by Calvin King [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Re: Suggestions on new Force by Noel P. Luneau [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Re: electric pickup by Rush [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) Re: DC to DC by Philippe Borges [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) Re: Ovonic NiMH battery is available by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) Re: Ovonic NiMH battery is available by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) Re: electric pickup by Roy LeMeur [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) The bttery photos by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) Re: electric pickup by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 22) Re: Electronics 101 question by Dave Cover [EMAIL PROTECTED] 23) Re: Electronics 101 question by Nick 'Sharkey' Moore [EMAIL PROTECTED] 24) EV digest 4806 is Relatively Huge? by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 25) RE: Crimp versus solder (was: Cable Crimping Tools) by Jimmy Argon [EMAIL PROTECTED] 26) EV Radio Interview - Heads UP ! by Steven Lough [EMAIL PROTECTED] 27) Re: 180 V Circuit Breaker by Jimmy Argon [EMAIL PROTECTED] 28) RE: DC to DC by Jimmy Argon [EMAIL PROTECTED] 29) Re: An Enemy of my Enemy by [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Chris Buresh) 30) RE: DC to DC by [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- Lee Hart wrote: I'd put an RC filter on the input; something like a 10-ohm 1/4w carbon film resistor and 100uF capacitor. The resistor will act like a fuse if anything goes wrong, and fail open. Bill Dennis wrote: Lee, I'm not sure where you're saying the RC filter would go. And how would the voltage drop across the resistor affect the circuit and its voltage sensing? The resistor is directly in series with the battery, so if anything fails in your circuit, it won't short the battery or start a fire. The resistor will just burn open in a fraction of a second. Yes, the resistor will cause a slight voltage drop; but not enough to matter. Also, you mentioned using an LM10 to replace the LM-741 and REF-3012. I've studied the spec sheet on the LM10, but I can't figure out how to wire it so that it turns on below 2.8V. Can you give me some help? Here's a quickie schmatic to give you the general idea. I haven't tested it. Remember, you aren't paying anything for it, so that may be what it's worth! + __/\/\ R1 ||| 10 ohms | R2 | V+ 1/4 watt | 130k | pin7 || || LM10 | ||__|\| || pin2 |-\_ | R3 |+/ output | | 10k | | pin3 |/| pin6 R4 | ||\ || 10k C1 +_|_ |pin8 |-\__|| 100uF ___ | |+/ Vref |_|_ |/ collector 25vdc || +__|__ |/ pin1 | _\_/_ | ||___ 200mv | ||\ emitter || - |__| V- | ||| pin4| H11A817C - |||_| optocoupler The LM10's internal reference drives the first opamp to put 200mv on pin 3. R2 and R3 form a voltage divider to put 200mv on pin 2 when the cell voltage is 2.8v. When the cell voltage goes below 2.8v, pin2 is less than pin3, so the output pin6 goes high, which turns on the LED. -- Humanity is acquiring all the right technology for all the wrong reasons. -- R. Buckminster Fuller -- Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Edward Ang wrote: Victor, How many of these are you going to have? As many as you need, but may not be in the same batch - too heavy to haul all I need at once. What is the weight? I am interested in getting 16. Ed Ang 38 to 40 lb each. Victor ---End Message---
EV digest 4812
am only drawing an average of about 1/2 of that (3-4K) on a modest cut. Most of my land is very flat with only a few steep hills We are using 8 pcs 12 volt - 100 amp-hr AGM batteries from Northstar with 2pcs 4 bank chargers. Two parallel banks for 48 volt 200 amp power. The Northstars give us a lot of lead in a relatively small package. I have been cutting my lawn (3 acres) and have found that for my personal use, we have PLENTY of battery. When it was relatively dry last month I cut the entire lawn and only lost one LED on the battery meter. That day I probably could have covered 8 acres without stopping. Even when the grass was thick and heavy earlier in the year I cut 3 acres and still had a good reserve. On large open space you will do better than me with your 50 rather than with my puny 42 cut. It's the overlap that really adds up to wasted power. Shawn -Original Message- From: STEVE CLUNN [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Sent: Mon, 10 Oct 2005 18:32:27 -0500 Subject: Re: ZERO Electric Mower website back up I didn't see what kind of batteries you are using and what size pack? I'm working on somthing along the same lines usiing a 50 dixie chopper , and it looks like it will need 150 amps at 48v to run . steve clunn - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Sent: Monday, October 10, 2005 4:54 PM Subject: ZERO Electric Mower website back up To everyone who tried to reach our website yesterday and today and were unsuccessful, Sorry about it being down for so long. We got hit pretty hard after some good local press and it crashed. It's back up if anyone is interested www.zeromow.com Shawn Lawless ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- The short answer is yes. Most cars sill use the switched resister method because it works, and is in production. Many new cars such as the Insight use PWM. Fewer wires and power switches make for a more flexible system that does not increase cost. Mike On Oct 11, 2005, at 1:01 PM, Electric Vehicle Discussion List wrote: From: Dave Cover [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: October 11, 2005 12:51:01 PM PDT To: EVList ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Subject: Electronics 101 question Or possibly Electricity 101. Here's the scenario; I have a simple 12 volt defrost/heater fan from a car. To change speeds, the switch on the dash powers the fan through different resistors. Standard for most cars. Can I control this motor with a 12 volt PWM controller instead? I want to use this fan for main motor cooling and would like to be able to vary the speed. I was just wondering if this was an option instead of using the resistor/switch method. Thanks Dave Cover ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Is it a double A arm or a single J arm? I have found J arm suspensions are really spooky at speed, especially when braking. Joe Smalley Rural Kitsap County WA Fiesta 48 volts NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Mark Hanson [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2005 5:45 AM Subject: Challenging Drive Hi, I took the Bombardier out for a drive last night and it seamed very unstable even at 25mph, like pushing a golf cart up to that speed. It seamed like any movement on the steering wheel at speed and it might flip. I don't know how to make a more stable front end and was curious what might be done. It has small 6 diameter brake drum hubs and A arms holding the wheels so the wheels fold under like an old beetle if light or bend outward if heavy. The front is pop rivited to boat type fiberglass in a center box from which the A arms extend. And the rear is pop rivited also in another center box. The steering is king pins rack pinion. The wheel base is fairly narrow, 4'. and short in length about 7'. Any help would be appreciated. (I changed the wheels from golf cart style to Chevy Vega 13 and was going to go out again but the headlight switch flaked out, try again tonight). I replaced the funky low voltage no instrumentation charger, twinky DC converter, made the batteries accessible, 6ea US8VGC's under the seat and 3 in the trunk (directly over the rear drive wheels). I suppose I could relocate those 3 batteries in the passenger floor side (for stability maybe) and eliminate the 2nd seat but that would be a last resort. The rear brakes were not installed on the US models (supposedly 10k sold according to a Minnesota dealer, Peacock) but rear brakes were on the Euro models. The rear regen works ok and puts power back during decel to 0. Also I need to figure out how to make some doors, maybe Lexan or get jeep doors done. Thanks Mark ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- My Fiesta EV has a PWM on the blower control. The fan runs at idle when the key is on. There is a thermistor in the motor that speeds up the fan as the motor warms up. If the motor is warm enough to keep the blower running when
EV digest 4814
EV Digest 4814 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: DC to DC by Neon John [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Re: What tailshaft is appropriate for a motor RPM sensor? by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Contactor microswitches by Christopher Robison [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Re: What tailshaft is appropriate for a motor RPM sensor? by Ryan Stotts [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Re: DC to DC by Neon John [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Re: DC to DC by Mark Grasser [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) idea in need of comments/criticism by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) RE: idea in need of comments/criticism by Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3) [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) RE: idea in need of comments/criticism by Bob Bath [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Re: What tailshaft is appropriate for a motor RPM sensor? by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Re: idea in need of comments/criticism by Christopher Robison [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Re: idea in need of comments/criticism by Travis Raybold [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) Re: idea in need of comments/criticism by David Dymaxion [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Re: idea in need of comments/criticism by Tim Medeck [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Re: DC to DC by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) Re: NiMH charging. by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) Re: DC to DC by Jimmy Argon [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) Re: NiMH charging. by Chris Zach [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) Re: NiMH charging. by Shawn Rutledge [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- On Wed, 12 Oct 2005 13:16:58 -0700 (PDT), Dave Cover [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I too have been looking and I've seen a few products that look interesting. Some of these say they are built to military spec, but does this really mean anything? Is there a military standard I could look for that would indicate a better chances of survival? Or is this just sales hype? No. Mil spec parts are generally superior but not always. The extended temperature range of the semiconductor components is usually the biggest difference and in some cases, radiation hardening. For smaller parts, the production is tested and selected for mil spec parameters. The xxx54 vs xxx74 xxxTTL parts, for example. For other parts, there may or may not be a difference. Many modern switchers and DC/DC converters use high temperature electrolytic caps, for example, that aren't much different than mil spec parts. The big difference is that in order to be a QPL part (qualified product list), a specified amount of sampling and testing must be done on the part. This dramatically raises the part cost, generally by a factor of from 4 to 8 times. For instance, the last Navy contract I worked on, a simple 25 watt 5 volt power supply cost in excess of $500 in volume quantities. True automotive spec parts are generally even more rugged than mil spec parts, though the same degree of testing is not done. The max temperature for a non-space rated component is generally 125 deg C. GM's spec for under-hood components is 140 deg C. Despite the FUD (fear, uncertainty and doubt) spread by Victor and some others, modern DC/DC converters are extremely reliable, provided they are located in a place appropriate for the packaging. A fully vented chassis is not suitable for under-hood use, for instance. Citing 20 year old Todds and the like is, um, how should I say this, not very representative of modern products. I recommend Astrodyne and Progressive Dynamics because I have long term good experience with both, in the case of Astrodyne, decades of experience. I like what I see in Iota products but my experience is lacking. Lambda is generally top-drawer but I usually buy other brands because IMHO, the cost premium isn't worth it. John Thanks Dave Cover Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Car stereos and radar detectors *are* built to work in cars. Not under the hood, of course; but they do have to put up with temperature extremes and condensation. --- John De Armond See my website for my current email address http://www.johngsbbq.com Cleveland, Occupied TN ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Hello Eric, A spacer adapter would work, but it would set on the bearing housing that has about 1/4 inch rise from the surface of the face of the motor and about 3 inches in diameter. I don't know if you can drill and tap this area. If you made the spacer adapter about 4 inches in diameter which will slip down over this 1/4 inch rise down against the motor face, you could install set screws in the side of the adapter which could tighten against this rise section. This unit should look very good. Roland - Original Message - From: Eric Poulsenmailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edumailto:ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Sent: Wednesday, October 12, 2005 2:56 PM Subject: Re: What tailshaft is appropriate for a motor RPM sensor? Let me see if I have this straight: The
EV digest 4815
, no fancy transmissions. plenty of room under hood. I know where there is a rust free mustang and charger in a barn! ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- I've been buying and rebuilding insurance salvage cars and trucks for 28 years on and off, so have seen a lot of flood cars. Even if the unreachable nooks and crannies aren't filled with silt and unmentionables, the car is going to be a pain in the butt forever. A few guys that I know have tryed them over the years, here's a partial list of their problems- electrical (of course) connections corrode over a period of time, relays go bad, switches have gunk in them, etc. - HVAC ducts hold silt and stuff, so remain smelly (and probably not safe), vacuum switches and doors develop problems - rack and pinion problems - brake problems - bearing problems - rust problems. And these were all fresh water floods. A car that has been submerged in salt water will look OK for a while, but have you seen that Tribeca commercial? That's a salt water flood car in a couple of years. Tim Medeck From: billb [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Subject: Plenty of cheap gliders? Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2005 21:51:24 -0700 Hi Folks, I just heard from some friends in N.O. after Katrina They were lucky their house is intact , one person was in the car repair business, unfortunately for him he is now unemployed due to the fact most of the vehicles are considered un-repairable and are expected to be scrapped. I was wondering how useful the newer ones with straight bodies would be as EV gliders ? Of course you would toss all the i.c.e. stuff , and the differential and tranny would need some work but may turn out to be serviceable. The body, brakes and suspension would certainly be useable . Some of the 12 volt system may be beyond hope, silt in the switches, motors, instruments and especially where the battery voltage was present under water. I am not sure if the upholstery could ever be cleaned and deodorized? Still the new models are tempting if they would make good cheap conversions, with work. These vehicles could be a LOT newer and cheaper than those we usually can afford for conversions. Does any one on the list have any experience with the perils of flooded cars? Bill Brinsmead in still dry Reno Nevada. ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Hey Guys and Gals, This has been on my mind for a while. I would like to, when gathering information for my real life drive test of my almost completed vehicle, the individual battery voltages. I would like to somehow, connect each battery to a data logger, and write a visual basic program to read off values, etc, data log, etc etc. I have no idea on how to make one, and I know its possible using pretty limited amount of funds. Commercial ones are pretty dear and if I can make one, well that'll be a bonus. It may be a lot of work, it may not be. I am not sure. But I don't mind giving it a try, or I could ask the uni for funds to buy me one. But then they have to take it back after the thesis is over. Any suggestions, circuit diagrams etc.. Cheers ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Thanks, I set the toe in last night to 1/8 as recommended in the manual, it was straight on so I think that helped. Also I'm moving the 3ea US8VGC's out of the trunk and put them on the passenger floor as recommended. I'm not sure where to get an anti-sway bar as the one's from JC Whitney are vehicle specific. I'm not sure how to add positive castor but I could add some camber by shiming the lower brake backing plate bolts to get the wheels to tilt outward at the bottom more (now their slightly tilted inward due to the light front end. Still need to get doors next, probably jeep type although I was told Lexan is good. I was told to get the wheels balanced but another mechanic said it doesn't matter up to 45mph. I put 73' Chevy Vega 13 rims/wheels on. Does wheel spin balancing matter at low speed? Thanks, Mark - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Sent: Wednesday, October 12, 2005 1:26 AM Subject: Re: Challenging Drive In a message dated 10/11/2005 4:46:32 AM Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I took the Bombardier out for a drive last night and it seamed very unstable even at 25mph, like pushing a golf cart up to that speed. It seamed like any movement on the steering wheel at speed and it might flip. I don't know how to make a more stable front end and was curious what might be done. Can you tweak the front end to add more positive castor? That would entail tilting the top of the spindle toward the back of the car. I've done it before with tapered shims and it made the cart more manageable. Not great, but certainly better. Hope this helps, Ben ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage
EV digest 4816
EV Digest 4816 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) RE: NiMH charging. by Roger Stockton [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Re: FW: DC to DC **PLEASE CLOSE THREAD** by Bob Rice [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Civility (was: DC to DC) by Chris Tromley [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Re: FW: DC to DC **PLEASE CLOSE THREAD** by Bob Rice [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Re: rotary engine for generator by Danny Miller [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Re: Civility (was: DC to DC) by David Roden [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Re: FW: DC to DC **PLEASE CLOSE THREAD** by Ken Trough [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) Re: rotary engine for generator by reb [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Re: NiMH charging. by Christopher Zach [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Re: rotary engine for generator by Evan Tuer [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) RE: Challenging Drive, feeling better by Christopher Tromley [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) RE: NiMH charging. by Roger Stockton [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) Re: rotary engine for generator by Nick Austin [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Re: rotary engine for generator by Christopher Robison [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Re: NiMH charging. by Shawn Rutledge [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) ETEK parts by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) Radiant Heaters by Mark Hanson [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) Re: Challenging Drive, feeling better by Mark Hanson [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) Peanut Gallery was: DC to DC **PLEASE CLOSE THREAD** by Meta Bus [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) Re: rotary engine for generator by Evan Tuer [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) Re: Radiant Heaters by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 22) Re: NiMH charging. by Christopher Zach [EMAIL PROTECTED] 23) RE: individual battery monitor (data logger) by Roger Stockton [EMAIL PROTECTED] 24) Re: Challenging Drive by Andrew Letton [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- Victor Tikhonov [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: As SAFT, I should really qualify people first making sure they can charge correctly. And, no, chargers are not part of the package and I'm thinking of making it that way - BRUSA chargers loaded with correct profiles will be the match. I'll test it and will see if I should suggest having correct charging as a rule. Perhaps discounting the batteries as long as the preprogrammed charger is bought with them could be wise incentive. What is you all's opinion? SAFT has a vested interest in ensuring that their batteries will be properly treated because they have a battery warranty to honour; unless you plan to warranty these batteries (an unwise move, IMHO) I don't see that you have any reason to force any particular charger or algorithm on the battery purchasers. For instance, these modules are what were used in NiMH Solectria Forces; would you refuse to sell a NiMH Force owner batteries to replace his present pack unless he buys a new Brusa charger from you at the same time? Do you plan to evaluate every potential buyer's charger and/or algorithm for suitability before accepting a purchase from them? Offering a discount on a package deal of batteries + Brusa charger would seem to me to be quite a generous act. I would caution that if you do so, you make sure it is clear that you are not implying that the battery performance is in any way guaranteed simply because you are proviiding a charger with what you believe to be a good charge algorithm for the batteries. Proper charging consists of dV/dt detection and tracking Ah + the temp, so, sorry simple timed CC/CV thing won't cut it (like PFC charger as is, without external brains). Does this mean that you have located an algorithm specification for these cells? Are you going to share it with the rest of us? I would caution against the reliance upon of any sort of dV/dt criteria with a long string of cells. Ah tracking and temp limits are definitely wise. I doubt that even the mighty Brusa has enough temperature sensor inputs to be able to rely on temperature rise as a termination criteria. Cobasys/Ovonics literature states that once the cell is full all charge energy goes into increasing the cell pressure and temperature, and even though the cells are steel cased and strapped tightly together I noticed that there could be obvious differences in temperature between cells in the same module while on charge (even at very modest 5A rates). This suggests to me that you would need at least a temperature sensor per module to even have a hope of detecting an overheating cell in time to prevent it from venting. Cheers, Roger. ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- - Original Message - From: Tim Humphrey [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2005 10:03 AM Subject: RE: FW: DC to DC **PLEASE CLOSE THREAD** David, It appears you have an issue with everything Neon John posts. I understand where you get that from because in the past, yes John
EV digest 4817
. Marketing is often hype, and pricing is often a false-indicator of quality. A bit of cynicism is healthy and sane for enlightened consumers. It is common for humans to interpret, and once we have boxed someone into a reputation, we can develop a premature cognitive commitment-- seeing what we are looking for. Personal derogatory comments are often inferred. Casually following this thread, I did not see any personal attacks, just strongly-worded expressions of strongly-held ideas. Did I miss something? ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Please keep the thread DC-DC open and stop all personnal comments, we are all aware now, we all understand that it's not simple debating without hurting somewhere around the world someone mind...different educations...different cultures...lot's of good and bad things different. Keep in mind expressing by writen words it's not as effective as being speaking in front of someone, it's worst when english is not native language :^) Lets talk about DC-DC again, some sources: For a 24V pack http://cgi.ebay.com/DC-DC-Voltage-Reducers-15-Amp-Input-18v-35V-13VDC-out_W0QQitemZ5818249981QQcategoryZ48696QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem For 60V pack http://cgi.ebay.com/DC-DC-CONVERTER-43-75VDC-TO-15VDC-LOT-2-PCS_W0QQitemZ7553082766QQcategoryZ36323QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem I'm still looking for an inexpensive isolated low power (1 to 5W) 24-36-48V DC-DC converter to use on e-meter and other LCD which need 5 to 12V separated power. Philippe Et si le pot d'échappement sortait au centre du volant ? quel carburant choisiriez-vous ? http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr Forum de discussion sur les véhicules électriques http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/Forum/index.php ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Realistically if you were going to use a car that had been flooded you would have to do a chemical dip on it to be certain that you got it all set up right. That would require you to take everything apart, clean it, and reassemble. Seems like an awful lot of work unless the car is a really cool model. -Original Message- From: Tim Medeck [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2005 9:17 AM To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Subject: RE: Plenty of cheap gliders? I've been buying and rebuilding insurance salvage cars and trucks for 28 years on and off, so have seen a lot of flood cars. Even if the unreachable nooks and crannies aren't filled with silt and unmentionables, the car is going to be a pain in the butt forever. A few guys that I know have tryed them over the years, here's a partial list of their problems- electrical (of course) connections corrode over a period of time, relays go bad, switches have gunk in them, etc. - HVAC ducts hold silt and stuff, so remain smelly (and probably not safe), vacuum switches and doors develop problems - rack and pinion problems - brake problems - bearing problems - rust problems. And these were all fresh water floods. A car that has been submerged in salt water will look OK for a while, but have you seen that Tribeca commercial? That's a salt water flood car in a couple of years. Tim Medeck From: billb [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Subject: Plenty of cheap gliders? Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2005 21:51:24 -0700 Hi Folks, I just heard from some friends in N.O. after Katrina They were lucky their house is intact , one person was in the car repair business, unfortunately for him he is now unemployed due to the fact most of the vehicles are considered un-repairable and are expected to be scrapped. I was wondering how useful the newer ones with straight bodies would be as EV gliders ? Of course you would toss all the i.c.e. stuff , and the differential and tranny would need some work but may turn out to be serviceable. The body, brakes and suspension would certainly be useable . Some of the 12 volt system may be beyond hope, silt in the switches, motors, instruments and especially where the battery voltage was present under water. I am not sure if the upholstery could ever be cleaned and deodorized? Still the new models are tempting if they would make good cheap conversions, with work. These vehicles could be a LOT newer and cheaper than those we usually can afford for conversions. Does any one on the list have any experience with the perils of flooded cars? Bill Brinsmead in still dry Reno Nevada. ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Marvin Campbell [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: NJ may come off as rough cut, but in this instance he was no more abrasive than say, jeweler's rouge. The point is that even 'jeweler's rouge' abrasiveness serves no purpose in NJ's gratuitous response to Micheala. His reply was not answering anyone's question, it was defending his opinion of what DC/DC product is 'best', in response to the person who asked for advice stating essentially, thanks for all the suggestions, I've
EV digest 4819
EV Digest 4819 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) 1980 Rabbit vacuum or not? by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Re: 1980 Rabbit vacuum or not? by Bob Bath [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Re: Pot Box? by Bob Bath [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Re: Introduction by Bob Bath [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Curtis Sepex Regen Tweak by Mark Hanson [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Suspension/Alignment Adjustment (RE: Challenging Drive) by Jeff Shanab [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) White Zombie to Attempt the 11's this Friday Night! by John Wayland [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) Battery monitoring by Jeff Shanab [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Re: White Zombie to Attempt the 11's this Friday Night! by Mike Ellis [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Re: Pot Box? by STEVE CLUNN [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Re: rotary engine for generator by William Brinsmead [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Re: rotary engine for generator, trains an' Stuff by Bob Rice [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) Bulletin! by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) rotary engine for generator/2 stoke diesel by Reverend Gadget [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Re: rotary engine for generator by Jaroslaw \Jaros\ Berezowski [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) Re: rotary engine for generator by Jaroslaw \Jaros\ Berezowski [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) Re: rotary engine for generator, trains an' Stuff by Andre' Blanchard [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) Re: rotary engine for generator by Evan Tuer [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) Re: DC to DC **PLEASE CLOSE THREAD** by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) Re: rotary engine for generator by Evan Tuer [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) Re: rotary engine for generator by Danny Miller [EMAIL PROTECTED] 22) RE: Pot Box? by gail donaldson lucas [EMAIL PROTECTED] 23) 1 to 5W ISOLATED DC to DC @ $15 by Adrian DeLeon [EMAIL PROTECTED] 24) Re: rotary engine for generator, trains an' Stuff by Bob Rice [EMAIL PROTECTED] 25) CURTIS 1231C MOTOR CONTROLLER 72-120V 550 AMPS on e-bay by [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- I wonder if anyone has converted a 1980 Rabbit and not had to use a brake vacuum booster. Can it be retrofit to just plain hydrolics? I think this was the era when vacuum brakes were just coming in strong. Just a few years earlier most cars didn't use it. My 72 1200 didn't. My 1980 Courier doesn't. Can it be modified? In other words lose the vacuum pump. Lawrence Rhodes Bassoon/Contrabassoon Reedmaker Book 4/5 doubler Electric Vehicle Solar Power Advocate 415-821-3519 [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Due to a faulty relay, I used the 1981 VoltsRabbit w/o power brakes. It took quite a bit of muscle, but was do-able. I wanted the wife to accept it, and to be safe in all situations, so I repaired the relay. peace, --- Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I wonder if anyone has converted a 1980 Rabbit and not had to use a brake vacuum booster. Can it be retrofit to just plain hydrolics? I think this was the era when vacuum brakes were just coming in strong. Just a few years earlier most cars didn't use it. My 72 1200 didn't. My 1980 Courier doesn't. Can it be modified? In other words lose the vacuum pump. Lawrence Rhodes Bassoon/Contrabassoon Reedmaker Book 4/5 doubler Electric Vehicle Solar Power Advocate 415-821-3519 [EMAIL PROTECTED] '92 Honda Civic sedan, 144V (video or DVD available)! www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html __/__|__\ __ =D---/- - \ 'O'-'O'-' Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel? Are you saving any gas for your kids? __ Start your day with Yahoo! - Make it your home page! http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- I'm coming in on this one late, but depending on how your car is wired, it could be the microswitch, or a relay going bad. They arc, and develop pitting after a long time, if not protected by a diode. --- Jimmy Argon [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Catherine, You may want to check your main contactor and see if it has been arcing (more that usual) and has a buld up of carbon. What controller do you have? Jimmy --- Catherine C. Burgard [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I've got trouble again. When I step on the accelerator sometimes it doesn't engage anything. It can be totally cold or happen at a stop light after driving awhile. Also driving along it just disengaged from acceleration, nothing at the pedal, but the batteries are fine. Does anyone know if the pot box could be bad or going bad, and if it was would it cause that sort of problem. Catherine '80 Commuta Car - Yahoo! Music Unlimited - Access over 1 million songs.
EV digest 4820
-contactor-speed control) box. The other is a State of Charge meter, which is essentially a voltmeter. Do not connect full pack voltage to this meter directly, as it will blow the meter (I speak from experience). There is a voltage reducing circuit that has to be in place between the pack and the meter. I have a schematic which I can scan and email to you, but it'll have to be on Monday. Let me know if you need it. Richard Kelly From: Calvin King [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Introduction Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 21:56:19 -0400 To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Ok, I will come out of lurk mode long enough to properly introduce myself then return to lurking. It is my goal to quietly read until I can understand most of what I read on this list and it looks like that maybe turn out to be along. I did bid on the E10 but decided to stop at $6100, I thought the risk for a newbie was getting too great. If someone on the list bought it, I would be interested in hearing how it turns out. Now the Intro: I live in a small town in south GA, Leesburg. I am a pastor which is another reason i stopped bidding as I began to doubt how much time might be required to get it running again. Like any other interest, my interest in electrics has to be secondary to the rest of my life. People come first and always will. A few weeks back I purchased a '81 Jet Electrica. It uses a Lynx sled. it is a 96V system using 16 - 6 volt Trojans (5, T605's and 11, T105's) It has a Curtis controller which I assume it is the original. Its tag says... Voltage 72 - 120 Model 1221-7401 serial # 145 883current 400. It has a KW charger model BC20. After a frantic email to a name I found on the internet i was told how to track the problem and advised to join this list. It turned out that I had a battery post melt. Bypassed the battery and drove home. I have since replaced the battery with a used one and double checked all the battery connections. Since then the car has worked well. Now the problems. The meters are not connected and I have yet to figure out how to trace the disconnect and reconnect. The person I bought the car from did not know any thing about maintaining and repairing. Not having the meter to read the level of discharge is why I have not tested the car driving limits. Next issue is the charger. No paper work, so no instructions on most efficient operation. There are two ways to adjust the charger but without some instructions, I don't know what and how to do so I leave it as it is. That is enough for an introduction. I will return to lurking and learning. I will appreciate an information and advice that any care to give. Calvin King ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Good thoughts John. Thanks for putting a reality check spin on my curiousity over the 2 stroke issue. Keeping things in perspective IS important. As a long distance vehicle its probably the best case for a hybrid like Bobs Prius (too bad he can't plug it in tho) I have heard. I think im gonna go cry now ;-) LOL. Regards, David Chapman. - Original Message - From: Neon John [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2005 9:16 PM Subject: Re: rotary engine for generator Impossible, as a practical matter, at least with conventional 2-strokes. The process of scavenging passes a good deal of fresh charge out the exhaust port. A tuned exhaust (expansion chamber) forces some of that back in just before the port closes but not all. Thus the unburned HC is off the charts even if the actual mixture is lean. Since there is excess oxygen in the exhaust also, some of the mix oxidizes from the heat, resulting in high CO. The way the OEMs have addressed this is DFI - direct injection into the cylinder. There is no fuel in the crankcase. The fuel is injected directly into the cylinder on the compression stroke after the exhaust port has closed. The scavenging air contains no fuel and so few hydrocarbons. Because the scavenging varies so much with engine speed, maintaining the correct stoich mixture for a cat converter is still considered very difficult to impossible. It seems to me that if one wanted to experiment with a lightweight 2-stroke engine that had a chance of having low emissions, he'd start with a modern DFI 2-stroke outboard motor. Water cooling allows tighter clearances in the engine which results in lower HC emissions because less unburnt fuel is trapped in the space between the piston and cylinder and behind the rings. This type of engine would be the cleanest available 2-stroke to start with. How much more it could be cleaned up is anyone's guess. There continues to be a lot of work done by those evil car companies on direct charge 2-stroke engines. This is similar to the Detroit Diesel 2-stroke diesel where scavenging is via a supercharger. If this style 2-stroke could be made emission-compliant, it would be a boon
EV digest 4822
EV Digest 4822 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) FW: CALSTART's Conference in LA Dec. 1st by Marvin Campbell [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Re: Charging off peak vs Battery life by Rich Rudman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Liquid cooling package now available by Ryan Bohm [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Re: Charging off peak vs Battery life by Ricky Suiter [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) RE: Liquid cooling package now available by Grigg. John [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Re: EV truck Tires and Battery Boxes! by jerry dycus [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Re: FW: CALSTART's Conference in LA Dec. 1st by keith vansickle [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) Re: Calling on Ford Ranger EV owers and experienced personel.(long) by Bruce Weisenberger [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) RE: Pot Box? by Catherine C. Burgard [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) EV questions... by Nathaniel LeMaster [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Possible Conversion by Jason Joseffer [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Re: Possible Conversion by Jimmy Argon [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) Re: Liquid cooling package now available by Christopher Robison [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Re: Calling on Ford Ranger EV owers and experienced personel.(long) by Jimmy Argon [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Re: Liquid cooling package now available by Neon John [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) Re: Liquid cooling package now available by Danny Miller [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) Re: Liquid cooling package now available by David Dymaxion [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) Re: Possible Conversion by David Dymaxion [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) Re: Possible Conversion by David Dymaxion [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) RE: The bttery photos by Jake Oshins [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) RE: 1/8-Inch End Plates by Mark Fowler [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- Here's the note I sent to the president of CalStart regarding their upcoming conference. May try to actually attend the conference, if only to troll and ask the FC people those hard questions. Marv Culver City, CA -- From: Marvin Campbell [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2005 13:50:15 -0700 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: CALSTART's Conference in LA Dec. 1st Dear Mr. Boesel: Please consider having some proponents of battery-electric (BEVs) and plug-in hybrid (PHEVs) vehicles at the conference this year. As a BEV will travel about four times as far as a hydrogen fuel-cell car given the same amount of energy, it seems as though the state of CA is presently embarking on a costly boondoggle with this whole hydrogen highway thing. We need someone to help spread the word that AeronVironment (a California company) makes chargers that can charge vehicles in the time it takes for you to stretch your legs and buy a Coke. Their chargers keep the luggage tractors working down at LAX. And you can build one of those charging stations for $50,000. Last I heard, hydrogen refueling stations were $1,000,000. And even George Ballard, who has built more fuel-cells than any of us will ever see, has been quoted as saying: The American garage will be the last place you see fuel-cells being used. My family drives battery-electric vehicles which are charged with solar panels on top of the garage. We haven't been to a gas station in three years, and it's a great feeling being able to disconnect from non-renewable petroleum dependence. Hope to see you at the conference. Sincerely, J. Marvin Campbell 4248 Vinton Ave. Culver City, CA 90232 310.838.0131 ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Folks there is a soft start feature on the PFC chargers. Most of the newer ones..like after #50..go from off to full power in about 2 seconds. I want it this way. Just so you don't get snaps and blown breakers instantly should you ask for 30 amps for a 15 amp supply. The Big 75 K charger... I am looking for 15 to 30 seconds from a hard start to full power, NO matter what the amps knob is commanding of the power stage. And you do get a small inrush on a PFC charger. But it's just caps charging, without a load. Also if you have the breaker off then there will be NO arcing at all, and the arcs that do happen are in the breaker where they are taken care of, by some other engineer besides me. A Zivan without the MOVs is spectacular at night plugged in hot. CRACK!... The 75K is now on the 200 amp feed we can make AMPS!!! Rich Rudman Manzanita Micro \ - Original Message - From: Ricky Suiter [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Sent: Saturday, October 15, 2005 10:06 AM Subject: Re: Charging off peak vs Battery life It's a PFC30 charger. I think there's a little delay from turn on to full power. At the least I leave the breaker on and plug it in and there's no noticeable spark at all. My water heater is a 30 amp 240 volt circuit, which is on a timer. There's no intelligent circuitry to be found other than a thermostat, so I'm thinking something to that effect would work well.
EV digest 4823
EV Digest 4823 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Calling on Ford Ranger EV owers and experienced personel.(long) by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Re: KW BC-20 Opperation by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Re: Ampabout ... Outsourcing, limbo, award by bruce parmenter [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) PFC-30 Wanted by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Re: Liquid cooling package now available by Evan Tuer [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Re: Liquid cooling package now available by Joe Strubhar [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) young engineer in need of experience by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) Re: Possible Conversion by Jimmy Argon [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Re: Liquid cooling package now available by Christopher Robison [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Turn Signals by Ross Henderson [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Re: Pot Box? by STEVE CLUNN [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Those Allbright contactors by STEVE CLUNN [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) RE: Turn Signals by Don Cameron [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Re: Liquid cooling package now available by Philippe Borges [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Re: Ovonic NiMH battery is available by Shyam Gopal [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) FW: CALSTART's Conference in LA Dec. 1st by Marvin Campbell [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) CALSTART's Conference in LA Dec. 1st/EV FlashMob Anybody? by Marvin Campbell [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) FW: CALSTART's Conference in LA Dec. 1st by Marvin Campbell [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) Batteries from China by Jimmy Argon [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) Re: FW: CALSTART's Conference in LA Dec. 1st by keith vansickle [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- These vehicles are sown up tight. Experts like Ed Thorpe can't EVen get in and put a multimeter to a battery to find out what the charging routine is like. It is possible some of the batteries are still good. There is an outfit in Sacramento that has Ford's blessing and technical help to rebuild packs. Cost is about 4500 dollars. I think they are called Battery MD. If you dispose of the batteries I'd like a crack at them I have used them with some success. I have revived a few but right now my current pack is sagging badly. I need to do something if I want to keep driving. Lawrence Rhodes. - Original Message - From: Bruce Weisenberger [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Sent: Saturday, October 15, 2005 7:20 AM Subject: Calling on Ford Ranger EV owers and experienced personel.(long) First I realize this is not the Ford Ranger Group. But I need some informational help from experienced people and the Ford Ranger groups do not seem as informed as this group is. This post is for those either with experience specifically on the Ford Ranger EV commercially produced. I am about to drop the dead battery pack on a 1999 Ford Ranger EV. And I know the following: The pack voltage is dead. 39 AGM 8v 65 Ahr Delphi batteries in it. Weight roughly 2500 lbs. Hooked up in series for 312Vdc pack. Rear connector is power to drive system Passenger front connector appears to be from Charging system. Now for unknowns yet! Front Driver side connector. Dozen odd wires coming out and where it goes. Voltage requirements for following: Air conditioning drive motor Water Cooling drive motor Power Steering Drive motor Vacuum booster pump Cabin electrical requirement for onboard computer (presently assuming that is 12 volts from auxiliary battery. Voltage input to Lamda DC/DC. Don't know what is in voled with BMS system. What the present plans are include the following. Drop the pack to diagnose the issue with it. Suspect battery rupture as smoke poured out of it during last drive. Or a loose connection splitting a post. However it has been sitting almost 3 years so there is probably little hope there is anything left of the original pack. Plan for build of a new pack. Suspect we will have to build a new pack for it. This will mean redesign of the pack itself with a probable need of a new Charging and BMS system unless someone on this list knows how to change the present system to accomidate a different battery system. There is also the issue with the unknowns above we working with. What I really desire is a shop manual which I have been unsuccessful in acquiring. Or what someone else has done to bring their truck back to life. And yes I know about the pack exchange program but have an issue with both the price and the lack of warranty and upgrade-ability with those people. You ask a question of that company and you get send us the pack you just hurt yourself working on it. I am sorry I am an Electronic tech and work on 480Vac Water heaters and 150 KW ion implanters without issue so what is issue with a 312Vdc pack. Anyway back to my problem. I intend to bring this truck back to life with or without assistance. If I have to rip the whole electrical out and rewire it I will. But I would prefer
EV digest 4826
EV Digest 4826 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Relay Question by Bill Dennis [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Re: Any comments on Hall effect throttle controls? by Nick Austin [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Civil discourse in the EVDL by Ken Trough [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Re: Fet Switch (for heater etc) by Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) RE: 1/8-Inch End Plates by Bill Dennis [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Re: Calling on Ford Ranger EV owers and experienced personel.(long) by Meta Bus [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) RE: Civil discourse in the EVDL by damon henry [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) RE: Relay Question by Bill Dennis [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Re: [ev] Re: turbine hybrid by Tony Godshall [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Re: Calling on Ford Ranger EV owers and experienced personel.(long) by John Luck Home [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Re: Civil discourse in the EVDL by mreish [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Liquid cooling for Zilla by kluge [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) Re: Any comments on Hall effect throttle controls? by Eric Poulsen [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Re: Turn Signals by STEVE CLUNN [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Pump for Zilla cooling by Eric Poulsen [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) Re: Fet Switch (for heater etc) ; Also, Relay Question by Arthur W. Matteson [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) Re: Any comments on Hall effect throttle controls? by Andrew Letton [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) RE: Fet Switch (for heater etc) by Roger Stockton [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) Re: Turn Signals by Ross Henderson [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) Re: Pump for Zilla cooling by Nick Austin [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) Re: Fet Switch (for heater etc) by Neon John [EMAIL PROTECTED] 22) Re: Pump for Zilla cooling by Neon John [EMAIL PROTECTED] 23) Backup generator or true hybrid by djsharpe [EMAIL PROTECTED] 24) Re: Liquid cooling for Zilla by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 25) need better layout under hood by Jeff Shanab [EMAIL PROTECTED] 26) RE: 1/8-Inch End Plates by Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3) [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- I'm looking for some 12V relays that have Common, N.O. and N.C. connectors. In normal usage, the relay will not be energized, and current will pass through to run the main contactor. If an error occurs, (e.g., motor overheats, RPM goes too high, etc.), the relay will be energized, which will cut power to the main contactor and instead illuminate a warning light. I want to make sure I'm reading the specs correctly. Does this relay look like it's what I need: http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=500700type=stor e Thanks. Bill Dennis ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- On Mon, Oct 17, 2005 at 02:14:30PM -0700, Eric Poulsen wrote: WRT Failure mode: Wow, that's a really bad failure mode! I wonder if using a normal twist throttle with pull cables connected to a good HE pedal pot would be a better solution for 2-wheeled vehicles? There is a simple solution for this problem. Just program the controller to treat absents of any field as 0 and full positive as 100. Then don't use half of the magnet. Or you could use two sensors to prove that the magnet is still there (and it is the magnet you expect it to be). ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- I have no problem with John's opposing viewpoints, his anti-environmental attitudes, nor his generally gruff demeanor. I simply take offense to the name calling and derogatory personal comments and characterizations he makes on a very regular basis. Some feel that this kind of behavior should be tolerated in the name of diversity. I disagree. Differing viewpoints can always be expressed in a civil manner. Those incapable of basic civility should be excluded from the conversation. And if someone wants to make a joke, it is a simple matter and an established custom to put a smiley face or something to make sure people understand the comments were not serious. In John's case they were. If someone who was KKK showed up and used racially charged derogatory comments and name calling that is typical of their poor viewpoints of African Americans and people of Jewish decent, there would be a huge outcry and they would be shown the door without hesitation. John's constant name calling and belittlement of those with differing opinions is no different fundamentally and no less insulting... -Ken Trough Admin - V is for Voltage Magazine http://visforvoltage.com AIM/YM - ktrough FAX/voice message - 206-339-VOLT (8658) ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Wanted to mention, a FET switch is used in OEM EV fluid heaters made by MES-DEA (featured on Metric Mind web site). This pro system is sophisticated enough, see http://www.metricmind.com/line_art/blk-diag.gif and thus, cost more than common solution with a ceramic element wedged into the vent duct (unthinkable for an
EV digest 4827
). Probably you would have the option to switching to wet lead if you did not want the AGM (finding the same form-factor), but there would be some parameter changes to program into the BMS/charger, I'm sure. Also, I would suggest beginning with your 12V system first. Find your 12V aux battery and its DC-DC converter, make sure it is taking a charge and providing aux power. Replace that one (or is it two) battery first, if necessary. You should be able to find test/probe points once you've identified each of your subsystems. Depending on what safety and sanity-checks are designed into your system, your BMS/charger may refuse to operate in an undervoltage situation, or because the 12v is not there, or... Of course, your life and your short hairs are in your own hands, and we all are counting on you to keep one hand in your pocket, and to treat any wire thicker than your short hairs with much respect. Good luck. Bruce Weisenberger wrote: First I realize this is not the Ford Ranger Group. But I need some informational help from experienced people and the Ford Ranger groups do not seem as informed as this group is. This post is for those either with experience specifically on the Ford Ranger EV commercially produced. I am about to drop the dead battery pack on a 1999 Ford Ranger EV. And I know the following: The pack voltage is dead. 39 AGM 8v 65 Ahr Delphi batteries in it. Weight roughly 2500 lbs. Hooked up in series for 312Vdc pack. Rear connector is power to drive system Passenger front connector appears to be from Charging system. Now for unknowns yet! Front Driver side connector. Dozen odd wires coming out and where it goes. Voltage requirements for following: Air conditioning drive motor Water Cooling drive motor Power Steering Drive motor Vacuum booster pump Cabin electrical requirement for onboard computer (presently assuming that is 12 volts from auxiliary battery. Voltage input to Lamda DC/DC. Don't know what is in voled with BMS system. What the present plans are include the following. Drop the pack to diagnose the issue with it. Suspect battery rupture as smoke poured out of it during last drive. Or a loose connection splitting a post. However it has been sitting almost 3 years so there is probably little hope there is anything left of the original pack. Plan for build of a new pack. Suspect we will have to build a new pack for it. This will mean redesign of the pack itself with a probable need of a new Charging and BMS system unless someone on this list knows how to change the present system to accomidate a different battery system. There is also the issue with the unknowns above we working with. What I really desire is a shop manual which I have been unsuccessful in acquiring. Or what someone else has done to bring their truck back to life. And yes I know about the pack exchange program but have an issue with both the price and the lack of warranty and upgrade-ability with those people. You ask a question of that company and you get send us the pack you just hurt yourself working on it. I am sorry I am an Electronic tech and work on 480Vac Water heaters and 150 KW ion implanters without issue so what is issue with a 312Vdc pack. Anyway back to my problem. I intend to bring this truck back to life with or without assistance. If I have to rip the whole electrical out and rewire it I will. But I would prefer to leave it intact and rebuild the pack. Just to get another EV on the road again. Thanks again for all the information: I am assisting a friend to get his truck running. He bought this from ASU and it was running when he bought it. However the pack died and he wants it back up and running but doesn't know anything about. __ Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 http://mail.yahoo.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.12.2/137 - Release Date: 16/10/2005 ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- You CAN mount the AC system in the back no problem. Just route the hoses inside of a PVC pipe or something to protect them. -Original Message- From: Jeff Shanab [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, October 17, 2005 2:32 PM To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List Subject: need better layout under hood 300zx project I purchased 25 batteries but I only have 17 in right now. 13 in back and 4 under the hood above the motor. I was planning on 8 more in front but am having trouble fitting them in. If I get rid of my Air Conditioning(AC) condensor I could easily get 6 batteries and probably mount the zilla above them then fill the zilla hole with #7 and the stock battery placement with #8. But Fresno is not known for cool weather and AC is usually a must. I hate to put any more in back because of weight
EV digest 4828
EV Digest 4828 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Liquid cooling and Zillas by Ryan Bohm [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Re: OT - Variable Freq Drive needed by [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Re: Liquid cooling package now available by [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Twist-lock connectors by James Massey [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) RE: OT - Variable Freq Drive needed by James Massey [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Re: (Another) Zilla question by Otmar [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Battery Beach Burnout by Shawn Waggoner [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) RE: OT - Variable Freq Drive needed by Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3) [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) RE: Exide Floodeds vs AGM by Pestka, Dennis J [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Conversion Market Value Proof Needed by Edward Ang [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) RE: 1/8-Inch End Plates by Bill Dennis [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Re: Backup generator or true hybrid by Michaela Merz [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) Re: Battery Beach Burnout by Dave [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Re: Twist-lock connectors by Neon John [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Re: OT - Variable Freq Drive needed by Neon John [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) Re: Backup generator or true hybrid by Evan Tuer [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) Re: OT - Variable Freq Drive needed by David [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) Re: Liquid cooling for Zilla by Rich Rudman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) RE: OT - Variable Freq Drive needed by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) Re: Pump for Zilla cooling by Rich Rudman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) Re: (Another) Zilla question by Rich Rudman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 22) Re: OT - Variable Freq Drive needed by Rich Rudman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 23) Re: Backup generator or true hybrid by Rich Rudman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 24) Re: Backup generator or true hybrid by John G. Lussmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] 25) Re: Conversion Market Value Proof Needed by Neon John [EMAIL PROTECTED] 26) Re: Backup generator or true hybrid by Neon John [EMAIL PROTECTED] 27) Re: Backup generator or true hybrid by John G. Lussmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] 28) Re: Backup generator or true hybrid by Danny Miller [EMAIL PROTECTED] 29) Re: Backup generator or true hybrid by John G. Lussmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- Hi again EVeryone, A few more comments on the liquid cooling topic: Is it true that the Zilla's have over temp detection? If they do, perhaps you could hook that up to an idiot light. This would seem to be the ideal place to monitor the effectiveness of your cooling right? Yes, the Zilla has a battery indicator light and a check engine light. The check engine light will begin blinking as the Zilla cuts back. As per the Zilla manual, The controller will maintain full output motor current up to 55 degrees C heatsink temperature. Above that, current drops back to 75% at 80 degrees C and then rapidly declines to nothing at 100 degrees C. Are the fittings your standard nylon 1/4 MNPT -- 3/8 barbed fittings? Or are they something special to make them intentionally fragile? Otmar would be the authority on this, but as far as I can tell, they are just standard 3/8 barbed fittings. They really aren't *that* fragile. I did some good yanking on them without breakage (although I would suggest treating them gently to avoid having to repair them). The Bosch pump draws under an amp. Beautiful. I don't remember who mentioned it, but someone had concerns about the reservoir I'm using (something about bubbles). Yes, I have been getting bubbles in the system. I spent the evening figuring out what was causing it. I think I've nailed it down, and it shouldn't be an issue if the reservoir is installed in a certain configuration. At first, I was skeptical of the horizontal mounting reservoir. But I think others will find it convenient to install (of course there will be exceptions, in which case it can be installed vertically). Once again, thanks to all for the great comments. -Ryan -- - EV Source http://www.evsource.com - Selling names like Zilla, PFC Chargers, WarP, and PowerCheq All at the best prices available! E-mail: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Toll-free: 1-877-215-6781 ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- I just did this exact modification to my bandsaw. Steve Ciciora gave me the VFD. I bought all the remaining odds and ends for about $60. Works fantastically. Steve bought the inverter on Ebay. Here is one listed for $0.99 ($13 SH) http://cgi.ebay.com/MITSUBISHI-INVERTER-MOTOR-CONTROL-FR-AO24-0-75K-TF_W0QQitemZ7553754844QQcategoryZ78192QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem This unit will run great on 240 volts single phase. You need to borrow a parameter unit to program the above VFD. I paid $35 for one, but you could shop around and get one much cheaper. You need about
EV digest 4829
EV Digest 4829 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Introduction by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Re: Fet Switch (for heater etc) ; Also, Relay Question by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) The big one. by Rich Rudman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) RE: Pump for Zilla cooling by Jamie Marshall \(GAMES\) [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Re: Backup generator or true hybrid by Neon John [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Why Le Car makes a great EV by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Re: Backup generator or true hybrid by Neon John [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) VW Van conversion. by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) RE: Introduction by Roger Stockton [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Re: Backup generator or true hybrid by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Re: Conversion Market Value Proof Needed by Christopher Zach [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Re: Backup generator or true hybrid by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) Re: Backup generator or true hybrid by Michaela Merz [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Re: Conversion Market Value Proof Needed by Ricky Suiter [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Re: Twist-lock connectors by James Massey [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) Re: Backup generator or true hybrid by John G. Lussmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) Re: Backup generator or true hybrid by Rich Rudman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) Re: Backup generator or true hybrid by Rich Rudman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) Re: Conversion Market Value Proof Needed by Steve Gaarder [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) RE: Conversion Market Value Proof Needed by Roger Stockton [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) Re: Backup generator or true hybrid by Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED] 22) Re: Liquid cooling package now available by acid_lead [EMAIL PROTECTED] 23) Re: The big one. by acid_lead [EMAIL PROTECTED] 24) Re: The big one. by Andre' Blanchard [EMAIL PROTECTED] 25) Re: Fet Switch (for heater etc) ; Also, Relay Question [maybe OT] by Arthur W. Matteson [EMAIL PROTECTED] 26) Re: The big one. by Arthur W. Matteson [EMAIL PROTECTED] 27) More DC Motor Questions - Thanks for your patience by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 28) Re: need better layout under hood by Ryan Stotts [EMAIL PROTECTED] 29) RE: Backup generator or true hybrid by Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3) [EMAIL PROTECTED] 30) Re: OT - Variable Freq Drive needed by Ryan Stotts [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- Calvin King wrote: A few weeks back I purchased a '81 Jet Electrica... a 96V system using 16 - 6 volt Trojans (5 T605's and 11 T105's)... Curtis controller 1221-7401... KW charger model BC20. Welcome to the EV list! This is probably the best place to find help in fixing and maintaining your EV. Your EV is a good, basic, straightforward vehicle that should be simple to repair. For a first EV, it is probably a lot better than the recent auto company EVs, which are nearly impossible to fix. It turned out that I had a battery post melt. Bypassed the battery and drove home. I have since replaced the battery with a used one and double checked all the battery connections. That's a common problem, and a good solution. A simple way to find bad connections before they melt is to feel them after a drive. Any that get hot are failing! Lead is soft and distorts easily -- connections tend to loosen over time, especially if they get hot. Don't overtighten; this just crushes the lead -- torque them as the battery manufacturer recommends. Keep them clean; corrosion creates bad connections. Other hints: - use automotive post connections (not the 5/16 bolt stud that sticks out of the post) - use high quality tin plated copper terminals (not cheap automotive emergency repair terminals) - coat the terminals with vaseline to keep water and acid out - use belleville spring washers on the bolts, which will maintain pressure even as the lead cold-flows The meters are not connected and I have yet to figure out how to trace the disconnect and reconnect. It's important to have a working voltmeter and ammeter at the very least. Without them, you are almost certain to quickly destroy your batteries. If you don't already have one, get a good high-quality digital multimeter. Don't get some cheap off-brand one; accuracy and reliability are important! Wire this meter so you can monitor battery pack voltage while charging and driving. Your basic guidelines are: - Drive so you never pull the batteries under 1.75v/cell (84v for your 96v pack). This is easy with a fully charged pack, but as it runs down, you have to be more and more gentle with the throttle. This rule keeps you from over-discharging the pack. - Charge until the batteries reach 2.5v/cell (120v for your 96v pack) at a current of less than 5 amps. This rule keeps you from over- charging. As the batteries age, or when they
EV digest 4830
one EV. Rich Rudman Manzanita Micro ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- A PFC-50 stocker will put 50 amps into the battery or draw 50 amps of line current which ever comes first. A PFC-50 Bucker will put 75 amps into the battery or draw 50 amps of line current which ever comes first. If the line voltage is less than the battery voltage, the buck enhancement will not effect the power and the buck enhancement is not recommended. If the line voltage is greater than the battery voltage, the buck enhancement can produce 50% more charging power. The advantage of PFC on a single phase generator is 1) the alternator will run cooler and 2) the circuit breakers will allow more (50% additional) charging current than with simple rectification. With single phase rectification, you can get about 65% of the rated power into the battery before the alternator or circuit breakers reach their limit. In a well matched system the alternator gets hot or breaker opens before the engine reaches its power limit. With PFC or three phase rectification, you get about 90% of the rated power into the battery. In a well matched system the engine reaches its power limit before the alternator gets hot. Joe Smalley Rural Kitsap County WA Fiesta 48 volts NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: John G. Lussmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Sent: Tuesday, October 18, 2005 1:58 PM Subject: Re: Backup generator or true hybrid At 11:36 AM 10/18/2005, Lawrence Rhodes wrote: OkHow many amps will this unit put out at 120vdc to `144vdc when pushed properly? 10KW at 120VDC is 83A. at 144VDC is 69A. Of course you won't quite get that much unless you use something like a PFC50 charger (w/Buck Enhancement?). -- John G. Lussmyer mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream http://www.CasaDelGato.com ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Large (approx 9 dia and long) and heavy (100 lbs) and the real deal breaker is the female spline output. Not easy or cheap to work around unless you have a machine shop handy. That said I wonder how tough or expensive it would be to have the motor guy (Jim H) on the list re-shaft this piece? Practical? Jim, any input on this? David Chapman Arizona Electropulsion / Fine-Junque http://stores.ebay.com/theworldoffinejunque - Original Message - From: Mark Dodrill [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: EV List ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Sent: Tuesday, October 18, 2005 7:15 PM Subject: Prestolite 36v motors on Ebay I saw these Prestolite 36v motors on Ebay (item #7555041764, for example), part # A200199-00, 10.4 HP at 333 amps. No weight given. Would this be suitable for an electric motorcycle? -- Mark ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Rich Rudman wrote: Looks cool! What's it for? ;) Seriously, I've heard you mention it a few times but I don't know why you're doing it. Super fast charging? -Mike Er...yea that's the ticket!!! Of course for fast charging... and as many times as we can get in a day, with more than one EV. Rich Rudman Manzanita Micro How many people do you think have 400A 3 phase feed at home to take advantage of it? Industrial customer is different issue, but as *we* can get? I wonder who is we? While I understand your excitement, I wouldn't know what to do with 75kW charger even if get one for free and have 5 EVs with lead sitting waiting for fast charge. Sort of having a diesel for a ship on the back yard. Let say you manage to come up with 1MW charger at some point. What for other than bragging rights? Any *practical* implications relevant to plain mortals in residential areas? Not saying you do something wrong Rich, just wonder what is your definition of reasonable? Victor ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Tell us why Le Cars were good EVs. I've always believed that Le Car was a sorry example of a car both in ICE and EV form. Maybe I was wrong. - Original Message - From: Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List ev@listproc.sjsu.edu; electric_vehicles_for_sale Moderator [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, October 18, 2005 11:05 AM Subject: Why Le Car makes a great EV I wondered why Le Cars were good EV's. I really didn't think much of them. Now I know. Lawrence Rhodes. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1980-Renault-Le-Car-LeCAR-R5-48MPG-BEAUTIFUL-50PIX-NR_W0QQitemZ4582840867QQcategoryZ6385QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Lawrence Rhodes Bassoon/Contrabassoon Reedmaker Book 4/5 doubler Electric Vehicle Solar Power Advocate 415-821-3519 [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- On Tue, Oct 18, 2005 at 11:18:51PM -0700, Joe Smalley wrote: ..snip.. With PFC or three phase rectification, you get about 90% of the rated power into the battery. In a well matched system the engine reaches its power limit before the alternator gets hot. When you say three phase rectification, do you mean just
EV digest 4831
EV Digest 4831 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) unsubscribe by electric [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) RE: Prestolite 36v motors on Ebay by Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3) [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Re: Why Le Car makes a great EV by Arthur W. Matteson [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Re: Ampabout ... a bad thing turned good by bruce parmenter [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Re: Conversion Market Value Proof Needed by Chip Gribben [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Zero Mower and Orange Juice on featured display at East Coast electric Expo next week by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) RE: Zilla cooling by Christopher Tromley [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) Low loss lubricant for EV gearbox by djsharpe [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) RE: Backup generator or true hybrid - engine weight by Phil Marino [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Re: Ampabout ... a bad thing turned good by Phil Marino [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) How to use a PFC75 at home by Jeff Shanab [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Re: Low loss lubricant for EV gearbox by Bob Bath [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) Re: The big one.Comments. by Bob Rice [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Re: Low loss lubricant for EV gearbox by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) RE: Prestolite 36v motors on Ebay by Jim Husted [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) Cogeneration natural gas on-board an EV...?! by Bob Bath [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) Re: Why Le Car makes a great EV.Rabbits are better, though by Bob Rice [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) Re: Low loss lubricant for EV gearbox by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) Re: Cogeneration natural gas on-board an EV...?! by Evan Tuer [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) Re: Ampabout ... a bad thing turned good by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) Re: Backup generator or true hybrid by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 22) Re: Backup generator or true hybrid by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 23) Re: Why Le Car makes a great EV by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 24) Fast Charging was: The Big One by Meta Bus [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- If you need an adapter to put into it try moser www.moser.com engineering. They make axle shafts for 9 ford rear ends of any side and spline count. I bet they could make anything you would need to adapt the shaft. -Original Message- From: David Chapman [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, October 19, 2005 2:47 AM To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Subject: Re: Prestolite 36v motors on Ebay Large (approx 9 dia and long) and heavy (100 lbs) and the real deal breaker is the female spline output. Not easy or cheap to work around unless you have a machine shop handy. That said I wonder how tough or expensive it would be to have the motor guy (Jim H) on the list re-shaft this piece? Practical? Jim, any input on this? David Chapman Arizona Electropulsion / Fine-Junque http://stores.ebay.com/theworldoffinejunque - Original Message - From: Mark Dodrill [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: EV List ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Sent: Tuesday, October 18, 2005 7:15 PM Subject: Prestolite 36v motors on Ebay I saw these Prestolite 36v motors on Ebay (item #7555041764, for example), part # A200199-00, 10.4 HP at 333 amps. No weight given. Would this be suitable for an electric motorcycle? -- Mark ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- The fact that it gets 48MPG mainly...that's an impressive figure. Mine probably would get 24MPG because I have to use almost all of my strength to push it in the concrete garage (sigh). Thankfully, 'Little Homebrew AC' has been upgraded from the ICE so now it gets ? Wh/mile. (The California version had a 2HP dent in the normal 60HP rating, so that probably helped somewhat for the 48MPG figure.) The LeCar is fun to drive...and I love the moonroof (romantic!). --- For those curious here is my EV-Album link...the video is of it running on 120V (despite the filename) but before vector control was implemented: http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/532.html My Renault went on the road for the first time in four years this summer, finally on AC power. My personal website has a few statistics: http://mywebpages.comcast.net/awmatt/rengen.html Currently the 50kW (peak power) inverter is in its tenth iteration and its fifth complete redesign. The redesign has half the volume of the present inverter and the three-phase section measures only 6x11x2 (possibly excluding a fan). - Arthur On Tue, 2005-10-18 at 22:56 -0700, Tom Shay wrote: Tell us why Le Cars were good EVs. I've always believed that Le Car was a sorry example of a car both in ICE and EV form. Maybe I was wrong. - Original Message - From: Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List ev@listproc.sjsu.edu; electric_vehicles_for_sale Moderator [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, October 18, 2005 11:05 AM Subject: Why Le Car makes a great EV I wondered why
EV digest 4832
, light/strong
chassis, etc.).
IMHO,
Jim Davis
- Original Message - From: Tom Shay [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Sent: Tuesday, October 18, 2005 10:56 PM
Subject: Re: Why Le Car makes a great EV
Tell us why Le Cars were good EVs. I've always believed that Le Car
was a
sorry example of a car both in ICE and EV form. Maybe I was wrong.
- Original Message - From: Lawrence Rhodes
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List ev@listproc.sjsu.edu;
electric_vehicles_for_sale Moderator
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, October 18, 2005 11:05 AM
Subject: Why Le Car makes a great EV
I wondered why Le Cars were good EV's. I really didn't think much of
them. Now I know. Lawrence Rhodes.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1980-Renault-Le-Car-LeCAR-R5-48MPG-BEAUTIFUL-50PIX-NR_W0QQitemZ4582840867QQcategoryZ6385QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Reedmaker
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle Solar Power Advocate
415-821-3519
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
---End Message---
---BeginMessage---
What about an electric corner convenience store? This could be a prototype for
a national chain of drop in charge it up stores that Willie Nelson could be
franchising...
That's reasonable.
Rush
Tucson AZ
www.ironandwood.org
- Original Message -
From: Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Sent: Tuesday, October 18, 2005 11:55 PM
Subject: Re: The big one.
Rich Rudman wrote:
Looks cool! What's it for? ;)
Seriously, I've heard you mention it a few times but I don't know why
you're doing it. Super fast charging?
-Mike
Er...yea that's the ticket!!!
Of course for fast charging... and as many times as we can get in a day,
with more than one EV.
Rich Rudman
Manzanita Micro
How many people do you think have 400A 3 phase feed at home to take
advantage of it? Industrial customer is different issue,
but as *we* can get? I wonder who is we?
While I understand your excitement, I wouldn't know what to
do with 75kW charger even if get one for free and have 5 EVs
with lead sitting waiting for fast charge. Sort of having a
diesel for a ship on the back yard.
Let say you manage to come up with 1MW charger at some point.
What for other than bragging rights? Any *practical*
implications relevant to plain mortals in residential areas?
Not saying you do something wrong Rich, just wonder what is
your definition of reasonable?
Victor
---End Message---
---BeginMessage---
I have experience with regular fast charging. With all my chargers
on, I can push over 170 amps into my pack:
http://brucedp02.0catch.com/lvnedra02/
specifically the image at
http://brucedp02.0catch.com/lvnedra02/f_lvnedra020323-015.jpg
show my emeter at 172 amps and a surface voltage of 150 VDC.
That's 25800 or 26 Kw.
At that event the Las Vegas EAA Chapter had arranged for a huge
3 phase industrial genset to be on site. I let my EV charging
zeal go wild and let all my chargers suck down hard off that
genset's power. That was fun! but it did not last long as my
pack charged up very fast.
At the time I had a 132 VDC PbSO4 wet cell pack of US145s. The
high current charging should only occur below the 80% when using a
collection of standard chargers as I do (PFC, Zivan, etc.)
At 80% SOC either unplug and go to the next charging station as I
have done many times (I have drove my Blazer from Silicon Valley to
Sacramento round trip six times this way), or to shutdown all
but one smart charger (and make sure to reset it so it starts
afresh and is not confused i.e. a Zivan charger).
Even at a 11 Kw rate I used the same method. After 911 when I was
running up and down between Silicon Valley and the SF Peninsula
doing interviews, beating the bushes for a job (any job).
I would plug into two 14-50 208 VAC 40 amp circuits which would
power a PFC charge and a Zivan for an output of 11 KW. With in an
hour I was reaching 80% SOC and would just unplug and go.
If done correctly, it isn't the fast charging that causes any
damage to the pack. People do have to remember that each charging
is a charging cycle. Additional charging cycles, make you reach
the pack's cycle design quicker. But you got where you needed
to go so it all evens out. If you want more, you pay more.
Bruce {EVangel} Parmenter
'
~/__|o\__
'@- @'---(=
. http://geocities.com/brucedp/
. EV List Editor, RE AFV newswires
. (originator of the above ASCII art)
= Undo Petroleum Everywhere
__
Yahoo! Music Unlimited
Access over 1 million songs. Try it free.
http://music.yahoo.com/unlimited/
---End Message---
---BeginMessage---
On Wed, 19 Oct 2005 11:26:27 -0400, Meta Bus [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
Lawrence Rhodes wrote:
A driveable generator is my goal for infinate range. I'd like to use
propane or biodiesel. Lawrence Rhodes
The subject was/is backup generator or true hybrid, and so many
EV digest 4833
EV Digest 4833 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) PVC Box or something ? by Cwarman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Re: PFC75 vs a Controller as Charger by Rich Rudman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Re: Prestolite 36v motors on Ebay by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Re: The big one. by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Re: Backup generator or true hybrid by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Re: Backup generator or true hybrid by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Re: Fet Switch (for heater etc) ; Also, Relay Question [maybe OT] by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) Re: Zilla Cooling by kluge [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Re: Backup generator or true hybrid by Neon John [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Re: Zero Mower and Orange Juice on featured display at East Coast electric Expo next week by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Re: Zilla Cooling by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Re: Backup generator or true hybrid by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) Re: PVC Box or something ? by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Re: Prestolite 36v motors on Ebay by James Massey [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Re: PVC Box or something ? by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) RE: Low loss lubricant for EV gearbox by Robert Chew [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) Re: Fet Switch (for heater etc) ; Also, Relay Question [maybe OT] by Neon John [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) RE: Backup generator or true hybrid - engine weight by Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3) [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) chevy s--10 us electricar for sale by Danny Lee [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) motor selection - am I missing something? by Robert Baertsch [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) Fwd: motor selection - am I missing something? - correction by Robert Baertsch [EMAIL PROTECTED] 22) Re: Fet Switch (for heater etc) ; Also, Relay Question [maybe OT] by Arthur W. Matteson [EMAIL PROTECTED] 23) RE: PVC Box or something ? by Don Cameron [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- Wouldnt it be nicer to have some type of element controlled box to place all the electronics inside of that mounted under the hood? Coudl have a 12vlt fan pumping air thru it etc ? Living in northern Maine im nervous about the elements so im trying to come up with a solution.. FYI, Got my warp 9 installed today into the S10..man this is fun! CWarman ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Yea LOTS! The DC rail is targeted to be just over 400 volts. Our first EV is low voltage. So the closer the DC rail is to the actual EV pack in volts the less heat you make in the Buck controller. So we use a 480 to 277 step down for most of our voltage drop, Then we use a Buck controller( 400 amp IGBT 1/2 bridge modules) and some really large inductors, to drop the DC rail down to the target pack. This of course is controlled by more that a few PCBs and control loops and other Rich and Joe magic. The charger operates as a single PFC50 charger but with 400 amp output limits. We are sucking only 90 amps a phase of 480... we don't need that much amps. Sure with some voltage control feed back of the Zilla, you could just wire the DC rail in to a Zilla and the motor loop would go to the battery pack. It would work...maybe some inductors... in the motor lead... My way is a LOT cheaper... I have all the power silicon on one heatsink, that's a little longer than my Z2K. I can also run my gear continous at 400 amps. The Z2k can do 750 amps continous... But not the Z1K. Also don't hold your breath for Otmar to use 1200 silicon in his controllers... either one of us does not like the 2x thermal loading they require. My stuff could handle it... but, not any fun at all. Rich Rudman Manzanita Micro - Original Message - From: Edward Ang [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Sent: Wednesday, October 19, 2005 10:32 AM Subject: PFC75 vs a Controller as Charger Just curious, if you have a 3-phase 480V supply. You could get 672V DC. I would think it is far cheaper to just use a controller such as the Z1k UHV (not yet available). You would be able to recharge at 1000A or 672kW in theory provided your battery voltage is lower than 672V. Am I missing something? Ed Ang __ Start your day with Yahoo! - Make it your home page! http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- David Chapman wrote: Large (approx 9 dia and long) and heavy (100 lbs) and the real deal breaker is the female spline output. Not easy or cheap to work around unless you have a machine shop handy. Aha, it's probably a pump motor. A hydraulic pump mounts right on the end, and plugs into that spline. You may also find that the motor has only two terminals, as they didn't need to reverse it. Such motors are used for the hydraulic lift in forklifts, where valving provided the up/down control. You could find one of the pumps, and build a
EV digest 4834
EV Digest 4834 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Fet Switch (for heater etc) ; Also, Relay Question [maybe OT] by Phil Marino [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) RE: Backup generator or true hybrid by Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3) [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Re: Low loss lubricant for EV gearbox by Dave [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Re: motor selection - am I missing something? by Meta Bus [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) RE: Fet Switch (for heater etc) ; Also, Relay Question [maybe OT] by Roger Stockton [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Re: Backup generator or true hybrid by Danny Miller [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Re: Low loss lubricant for EV gearbox by Jimmy Argon [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) Re: chevy s--10 us electricar for sale by Jimmy Argon [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Fwd: motor selection - am I missing something? by Robert Baertsch [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) RE: motor selection - am I missing something? - correction by Don Cameron [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Re: Fet Switch (for heater etc) ; Also, Relay Question [maybe OT] by Neon John [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Re: Low loss lubricant for EV gearbox by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) greetings, Reverse idea/question by Seth Rothenberg [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Re: PVC Box or something ? by Ricky Suiter [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Re: motor selection - am I missing something? - correction by Robert Baertsch [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) Re: Fet Switch (for heater etc) ; Also, Relay Question [maybe OT] by Rush [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) 2 cars, 4 options. by Seth Rothenberg [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) Re: greetings, Reverse idea/question by Nick 'Sharkey' Moore [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) Re: Liquid cooling - reservoir or no reservoir (thermal expansion, etc) by Ryan Bohm [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) Electric drag racing Science Channel, 8PM EST by Seth Allen [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) Re: Liquid cooling - reservoir or no reservoir (thermal expansion, etc) by Nick 'Sharkey' Moore [EMAIL PROTECTED] 22) Re: PVC Box or something ? by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 23) Charger woes :-( by TiM M [EMAIL PROTECTED] 24) Re: Liquid cooling for Zilla: reasons by Ryan Bohm [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- From: Neon John [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Subject: Re: Fet Switch (for heater etc) ; Also, Relay Question [maybe OT] Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2005 18:12:06 -0400 Note that both catalogs list the inexpensive relays with a mechanical life of 10,000,000 mechanical operations and 100,000 operations at rated current. But even if they only lasted 10k cycles as Lee claimed, that would be OK. Consider that 2 cycles a day, every day would mean the relay would last for 137 years. 20 cycles a day (maybe a heater under thermostat control) would still mean almost 14 years. BFD. You're off by a factor of 10. At 2 cycles a day, 10K cycles would be 13.7 years and at 20 cycles a day would be 1.37 years( or, about 16 months). Phil _ Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE! http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/ ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Are there any issues with the trailer trying to jacknife with the car? I would think that a trailer behind me with a mind of its own would scare the crap out of me. How do you throttle it up and down? Is there an automatic safety disconnect that kills the engine if the trailer comes off the car? -Original Message- From: Meta Bus [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, October 19, 2005 11:26 AM To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Subject: Re: Backup generator or true hybrid Lawrence Rhodes wrote: A driveable generator is my goal for infinate range. I'd like to use propane or biodiesel. Lawrence Rhodes The subject was/is backup generator or true hybrid, and so many posts have focused on the generator, I thought I'd offer a couple of true hybrids from a couple of my heroes-- http://www.jstraubel.com/EVpusher/EVpusher.htm http://www.mrsharkey.com/pusher.htm Old timers here are no doubt familiar with these pusher-hybrids. These, IMHO, are the best examples to follow for range-extension. The aesthetics may not appeal to some, but the functionality is undeniable. (I imagine that a nice aero-box could be constructed around the original donor ICE FWD vehicle, for those who don't enjoy the head-swivels of the thundering herd). Regards, Jim Davis ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- A lot of late model Ford pickups used ATF in their manual transmissions. David C. Wilker Jr. USAF (RET) I live in the heavens. I reside on mountain tops. I am at constant vigil over thee. I monitor thy righteous ways. Thy levels art mine to command. When thou art in trouble, I will help thee through distorted times. When thou art low, the
EV digest 4835
EV Digest 4835 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: 2 cars, 4 options. by Bob Bath [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Re: Charger woes :-( by Ricky Suiter [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Re: liquid cooling package: Bosch pump current usage by Ryan Bohm [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Positive TV broadcast out of RTP by Peter Eckhoff [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Re: Fet Switch (for heater etc) ; Also, Relay Question [maybe OT] by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) re: 2cars 4 options by Jeff Shanab [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Re: PVC Box or something ? by Doug Weathers [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) Re: Liquid cooling - reservoir or no reservoir (thermal expansion, etc) by Doug Weathers [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Experimental personal vehicle by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) RE: motor selection - am I missing something? - correction by Cor van de Water [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) RE: motor selection - am I missing something? by Cor van de Water [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Opportunity Charging by djsharpe [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) RE: Calling on Ford Ranger EV owers and experienced personel.(lon g) by Cor van de Water [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Re: greetings, Reverse idea/question by Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Re: Low loss lubricant for EV gearbox by Marc Michon [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) Re: greetings, Reverse idea/question by Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) RE: Low loss lubricant for EV gearbox by Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3) [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) Re: motor selection - am I missing something? by Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- Hi Seth; welcome to the list. Greetings, been googling, waiting for the mailman to bring the Brandt book, Wikipedia is really good at this point! 1. My father's 1993 Mazda 626. The ICE needs main seals and timing belt, $700 worth. It's mine as soon as the title turns up. Too heavy. Check in www.evalbum.com, or google electric vehicle and Mazda 626. There is someone who has done a 626, but in his config., the range was poor. As you note, swapping the tranny is not a lot of fun. Some Japanese rigs have a different dash for the stick (ie, tachometer) than for the automatic. You're opening a can of worms I don't think you want to... 2, 1989 Lincoln Town Car. It was donated to my synagogue, and I haven't decided what to do with it. It's worth $50 by weight. Use it to carry batteries back, but not for a conversion. WY too heavy, auto trans. again. He suggested embedding solar panels in the roof...and he Ugh! Sorry, but on a small conversion like my Civic, it takes about 300 watts per mile to run the rig, and the top of the car has an area of a 75 watt panel. Subtract some of the power due to air resistance losses, and it's definitely not worth it. Put the panels on a house, and charge with them. where it costs $1 in gas to turn the key in the Honda minivan, and it's probably 25 cents worth of electricity for the whole trip. Nope, not quite that much. (;-p Gotta' love Odysseys-- but no stick version, and no place to put batteries anyway, thanks to the seat that tucks into the floor. Sheesh, when will they make a LiPo hybrid Odyssey!!! Option 3 is to get a different donor car. That's my vote!! Option 4 is to obey my wife, my mother, my friend the rocket scientist (really), and the other friend the Electrical Engineer, and stick to regular cars. Or Prius or whatever. Please use the KISS method. Either peruse the EV Trading Post until someone sells a good-quality EV VoltsRabbit for your first rig, or be prepared to pony up $9K to do a good conversion. My own wife's experience is useful. I started when gas was $1.50/gal, and everyone was laughing at me. The wife was more concerned about how much time it would take away from my kids, and that the project would get DONE/car on the road. Nobody is laughing at me anymore, and the wife is pretty danged impressed. Good luck with your decision. (;-p '92 Honda Civic sedan, 144V (video or DVD available)! www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html __/__|__\ __ =D---/- - \ 'O'-'O'-' Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel? Are you saving any gas for your kids? __ Yahoo! Music Unlimited Access over 1 million songs. Try it free. http://music.yahoo.com/unlimited/ ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- That will work. As long as your only connecting one charger to the pack it's ok to leave the cables all connected and charge as if they were 12 volt batteries. TiM M [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: My charger died today. It started fine, but after work when I turned off the Avcon station it reported the same WH that it started with. The charger lights were
EV digest 4836
EV Digest 4836 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Experimental 'personal' vehicle by Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Beazley outlines Labor's energy policy by Mark Fowler [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Honda Fuel Cell Concept with Home H2 Refueling by Mark Fowler [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Re: Backup generator or true hybrid by Lightning Ryan [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) RE: 2 cars, 4 options. by Don Cameron [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) RE: 2 cars, 4 options. by Tim Humphrey [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Re: Fet Switch (for heater etc) ; Also, Relay Question [maybe OT] by Mark Hanson [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) charger woes, obsolete parts by Jim Coate [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) RE: Beazley outlines Labor's energy policy by Claudio Natoli [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Re: 2 cars, 4 options. by jerry halstead [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) RE: motor selection - am I missing something? - correction by Don Cameron [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) EBEAA Meeting this Saturday 10/22/05 10-12 in Alameda, CA by Ed Thorpe [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) Re: Electric drag racing Science Channel, 8PM EST by Chip Gribben [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Re: Why Le Car makes a great EV by John Wayland [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Re: Zilla Cooling by Cwarman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) Vacuum Pump / ABS by Cwarman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) Re: Electric drag racing Science Channel, 8PM EST by Seth Allen [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) RE: Fet Switch (for heater etc) ; Also, Relay Question [maybe OT] by Roger Stockton [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) Re: PVC Box or something ? by Cwarman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) Re: Opportunity Charging by Neon John [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) window defrost by mike golub [EMAIL PROTECTED] 22) Re: motor selection - AC55 vs Siemens by Robert Baertsch [EMAIL PROTECTED] 23) Re: Why Le Car makes a great EV - 1000 lb of batteries? by Phil Marino [EMAIL PROTECTED] 24) Re: window defrost by Meta Bus [EMAIL PROTECTED] 25) RE: Beazley outlines Labor's energy policy by Mark Fowler [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- While visiting Toyota's hybrid site, saw this vehicle: http://www.toyota.com/vehicles/future/pm.html - has it been mentioned on the EVDL before? Yup. It's a Concept car and many of the concepts don't even exist in the Car Show mockup. I doubt this vehicle will ever see production, though some of the concepts may eventually show up on production vehicles. -- If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has 4 lines of legalistic junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long legalistic signature is void. ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Australia's Federal Opposition Leader has called for Australia to become less reliant on overseas oil. http://www.abc.net.au/news/newsitems/200510/s1486000.htm One of the things he talks about is cutting the tariffs on hybrid cars. Perhaps now is a good time for us Australian EV users and planners to contact our MPs (while this is fresh in their minds...) and ask them what their plans are for saving oil in Aus, and hint that offering incentives to hybrid and EV drivers like free parking, free tolls, use of T2 and Bus lanes would cost practically nothing, but give great publicity to the enviro cause :-) (Whaddya reckon Claudio, we should give Louise Markus a call?) Mark ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- From Slashdot, a story about the Honda FCX concept car. http://hardware.slashdot.org/article.pl?sid=05/10/19/1749259 Interesting part is the home refueling station which uses natural gas to produce electricity, heat and hydrogen. Honda estimates that the HES system will lower by 50% the total running cost of household electricity, gas and vehicle fuel. I wonder how much the typical EV commuter has reduced their energy bill compared to the ICE days? Mark ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- There are a pair of pages for pusher and genset trailers here... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pusher_trailer http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Genset_trailer I just added the two (new to me) links from this thread. Pleas feel free to add content to these pages. L8r Ryan ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Option 1: - possible, check the weight - somewhat of a pain to swap an auto for 4 speed and clutch - direct drive is also possible (I have this on my New Beetle), but you will be sacrificing either acceleration or top end - FWD is just fine Option 2: - too heavy Option 3: - best of the options. - find a light vehicle both you and your wife like, in good condition (except for motor) - FWD is fine - use standard trans and clutch if you want best accel and top end. Option 4: - if it is purely a cost issue - buy a used geo metro ICE for
EV digest 4837
EV Digest 4837 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) RE: window defrost by Roger Stockton [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Re: charger woes, obsolete parts by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Re:window defrost by Bill Nancy [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Re: Opportunity Charging by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Re: motor selection - AC55 vs Siemens by Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Re: Zilla Cooling by Rush [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Re: Electric drag racing Science Channel, 8PM EST by Ricky Suiter [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) Re: PVC Box or something ? by Ricky Suiter [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Re: window defrost by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) RE: window defrost by Roger Stockton [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Re: Vacuum Pump / ABS by Michaela Merz [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) RE: window defrost by Christopher Robison [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) BBC EV podcast by Evan Tuer [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) BBC Radio 4 by Paul Compton [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) RE: window defrost by Roger Stockton [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) Re: Low loss lubricant for EV gearbox by David [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) Re: Zilla Cooling by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) Re: motor selection - AC55 vs Siemens by Meta Bus [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) RE: motor selection - AC55 vs Siemens by Roger Stockton [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) AC motors - effect of number of poles by James Massey [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) Re: Vacuum Pump / ABS by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 22) Re: Liquid cooling - reservoir or no reservoir (thermal expansion, etc) by acid_lead [EMAIL PROTECTED] 23) Re: Why Le Car makes a great EV by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- mike golub wrote: I was wondering if anyone had come up with a system that would defrost the front window with 120 v ac at the mains, before leaving home or work, and then switching to battery mode. What is the most efficient way to do this? There are commercial products for this purpose, such as the one described at the huge URL below: http://www.canadiantire.ca/assortments/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3E prd_id=845524441889011FOLDER%3C%3EbrowsePath=2534374303517494FOLDER%3C %3EbrowsePath=1408474396669671FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=1408474396669671AS SORTMENT%3C%3East_id=1408474396670271bmUID=1129836109917 Simply plug the 120VAC heater into a timer so that it comes on an appropriate amount of time (1hr?) before you need to use the car, so that you aren't wasting energy keeping the car warmed all night (or day). If the problem is more that of falling snow melting and freezing on the outside surface of the windshield than condensation freezing on the inside of the glass, then a product such as this may help: http://www.canadiantire.ca/assortments/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3E prd_id=845524441889023FOLDER%3C%3EbrowsePath=2534374303517494FOLDER%3C %3EbrowsePath=1408474396669671FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=1408474396669671AS SORTMENT%3C%3East_id=1408474396670271bmUID=1129836196518 Very efficient since it consumes no energy, and could dramatically reduce the energy required to clear the windows since the heating system is left only having to deal with the frozen condensation. Hope this helps, Roger. ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Here is my 2 cents worth, and I hope it helps. It sounds like a standard brute force type power supply. It probably doesn't have a really serious issue. Have you thought about using an ESR meter on all the electrolytic caps? I seriously doubt you have a semiconductor failure. Over the years I have found thousands of bad electolytics and would bet you have one or more that has degraded. Degraded meaning they MAY have gone down in capacitance, but more importantly UP in effective series resistance. You might have noticed my username here is screendoctor This is because for several years I ran a business (can't live on teacher salary alone) exclusively for repair of computer monitors (back when they were worth fixing). I use the Dick Smith ESR meter, but there are others. I doubt you will find anything using a scope other than maybe excessive ripple on the output. Here is a link for popular ESR meters. The Dick Smith kit comes from Australia, is a kit, is cheap, and I have made THOUSANDS of dollars off of mine! http://members.ozemail.com.au/~bobpar/esrmeter.htm These will find caps that are degraded with high effective series resistance while they are in the circuit. Chances are you will need to replace quite a few of them if the charger is very old. An ESR meter will save you a bunch of time repairing about any electronic product. Mark Ward St. Charles, MO 95 Saab 900SE Saabrina www.saabrina.blogspot.com From: Jim Coate [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: 2005/10/20 Thu AM 08:09:48 EST To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Subject: charger woes, obsolete parts I have a 36 volt charger
EV digest 4839
EV Digest 4839 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Honda Fuel Cell Concept with Home H2 Refueling by Ryan Stotts [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Re: blower specs for motor cooling by Mark Hastings [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Re: Home at last!! Re: Sunrise Report. Or. Where's Jerry? by Bob Rice [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Re: motor selection - AC55 vs Siemens - torque calculation by =?iso-8859-1?Q?Nick?= [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Re: blower specs for motor cooling by Jimmy Argon [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Re: motor selection - AC55 vs Siemens - torque calculation by Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Re: AC motors - effect of number of poles by Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) new EV club starting by john [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) PFC or 'Baby' Charger... by Robb Zuk [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Emeter Test by Rush [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) RE: Low loss lubricant for EV gearbox by djsharpe [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) clutchless vw by john [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) On getting back the EV grin by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Re: can a plane be an electric vehicle (at least a little bit)? by Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) RE: charger woes, obsolete parts by Emmerick, Craig [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) Re: motor selection - AC55 vs Siemens by Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) Re: motor selection - AC55 vs Siemens - torque calculation by Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) Re: motor selection - AC55 vs Siemens - torque calculation by Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) Re: clutchless vw by Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) Re: charger woes, obsolete parts by Evan Tuer [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) Re: Used UPS battery questions by Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- Mark Fowler wrote: I wonder how much the typical EV commuter has reduced their energy bill compared to the ICE days? This is something I think about a lot anymore. Considering a fuel cell is basically a battery, everyone on this list could replace their battery pack with a hydrogen fuel cell and tank. Right now with batteries we have weight, a certain amount of range, recharge times, and pack replacement after an amount of time or use. The issues and reality of the hydrogen fuel cell: Converting the car to electric is no problem. Motor and controller basically. Used to, I thought getting the hydrogen was the problem. Then I thought storing it was a problem. Now neither of those is really the case. It's getting a decent size low cost fuel cell. The problem is the platinum in them(hence the price). A person could buy a hydrogen generator. Consider this the battery charger except this costs in the several thousand dollar range: http://froogle.google.com/froogle?sourceid=navclientie=UTF-8rls=GGLD,GGLD:2005-07,GGLD:enq=hydrogen%20generatorsa=Ntab=wf Not only do you need the hydrogen generator, you need a storage tank(in addition to the one in the car). You also need a pump. What's the price on a 10,000 PSI pump anyways? How about the price on those tanks(need two)? http://www.lincolncomposites.com/main.html I wonder what the upper limit on output is with a fuel cell? http://www.ballard.com/be_a_customer/transportation/fuel_cell_modules/mark_902 This part makes me laugh 300 kW for transit bus applications. And our little Zilla is 640 kW no? Now if we just had some low cost lithium batteries to lighten the load and extend the range... How about those charge times though? Does lithium recharge faster then lead? Will the price be competitive with lead this year or next? ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Does anyone know where I could get a cover for a 9 and even a 6.7 to hook a blower up to? I remember seeing a few on some EV's up north but I have been unable to locate one online not really knowing what I'm looking for. My S-15 gets hot in superhot texas in alot of stop and go and I expect my motorcycle to also with it's 6.7 motor. Rod Hower [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Amatek-rotron fans That's Ametek-Rotron :-) Which model are you using? We have lots of 12Vdc models. Using a blower is definately the proper method. Shaft mounted fans on EV motors don't make much sense, you need maximum airflow for low high torque acceleration, and the motor doesn't get cool when you pull up to the stoplight. The blower can be controlled with a thermal device or you can just run it full speed for maximum cooling. You don't have this option with a shaft mounted fan. Don't pay much attention to CFM if you don't know how many inches of water (pressure) it was measured at. A blower delivers good CFM at higher pressures needed to push air through an enclosed motor. You can see various curves for CFM and pressure at www.ametektmd.com. I think the 5.7 blowers are ideal for cooling on a 9 motor. Some of my new BLDC internal control blowers work
EV digest 4840
EV Digest 4840 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: BBC Radio 4 by Evan Tuer [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Re: clutchless vw, ect by jerry dycus [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Re: Home at last!! Re: Sunrise Report. Or. Where's Jerry? by keith vansickle [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) RE: clutchless vw by Pestka, Dennis J [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Re: window defrost, radiant heat efficiency by Mark Hanson [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Re: Honda Fuel Cell Concept with Home H2 Refueling by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Re:S-10 now stripped by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) Re:Current Eliminator News by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Re: Current Eliminator News by John Wayland [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Re:S-10 now stripped by Rod Hower [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Lift-off at 6:00 Tonight at PIR! by John Wayland [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Re:Current Eliminator News by Rod Hower [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) Re: Lift-off at 6:00 Tonight at PIR! by Jim Husted [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) RE: 2 cars, 4 options. by Adams, Lynn [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) RE: Emeter Test by Adams, Lynn [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- Snap! Hey, I just noticed the tagline of the programme - DC RIDER.. like Easy Rider? ha ha, not heard that one before :-) Regards Evan On 10/20/05, Paul Compton [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Excellent programme on EVs being brodcast now. BBC Radio 4;In Business Listen again, or [EMAIL PROTECTED]://www.bbc.co.uk/radio4/news/inbusiness/index.shtml Paul Compton www.sciroccoev.co.uk www.morini-mania.co.uk www.compton.vispa.com/the_named ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Hi John and All, john [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: A friend wants me to build her a VW bug conversion. Problem is she has one leg in a brace and can't use the clutch. I know she could go clutchless and put into gear before taking off but I was wondering if a set up like my Citicar would work on a VW? Using contactors for forward and reverse? Any thoughts would be welcomed. While you are stopped before going into reverse I hope, it shouldn't be hard to put it in reverse without a clutch. Bugs make a great under 50 mph EV and can run faster but with shorter range as the aero is rather high. But they are lightweight which really help around town EVing. But yes, using contactors can work well for reverse and can be used as another emergency power cutoff if something were to happen if set up that way. I'd also use a set up where the motor turns 5,000-5,500 rpm's so she can drive at most any speed in the same gear to avoid shifting. You can do this by using say a 36vdc-3,000 rpm motor on 72vdc battery pack or other combo of voltage, motor. For low cost, reliability, it's hard to beat 72vdc in a bug as you can use a modified 36vdc golf cart ferro charger and the contactors are lower cost, easy to find. Sniff around fork lift shops, junk yards for dead, surplus ones that are not worth a new batt for EV parts like motors, contactors, chargers for close to or even free. I use a Citi car motor, charger in my 60 mph E woody and shortly will change it over to ni-cads. Good luck on your new EV club. Interest in EV rise with the price of gas !! HTH's, Jerry Dycus . John in Tucson. - Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click. ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Glad to see you made the trip without any problems. good luck on keeping out of the storms. keep us posted on the freedom/sunrise as i am sure you will kEVs --- Bob Rice [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi Jerry an' All; I can taker a breath, again. Sorta holding it after ya leftg I don't know if ya noticed the 238000 on the speedo odometer. Tat was there when I GOT the car, saving it's life from the junkyard!Several years later ,two of them my kid used it for his daily driver at UCONN, a 55 mile flight from here. He did love it a little, treating it to new tires and glow plugs. I replaced the battery last year, so it would start, cheerfully, again.No OTHER work was or ever was done on the engine. Rear shocks petrifyed a few years ago. I replaced them with newer, not NEWg! Have junked Rabbits over the years and had some new old stock parts. Kid felt comfortable with the car, often going from CT to Richmond VA to see old HS buddies. I'm sure glad to see that it has a loving home and will help the Cause What better use for a faithful old car??Keeping with the Renault thread of late how many gas Renaults woulda done that FLA flight, after clocking probably close to 300k miles, the odo meter was busted when I got the car!?Hell, the owners manual is still in the glove tment, EVen!Not to
EV digest 4841
EV Digest 4841 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: window defrost, radiant heat efficiency by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Re: Low loss lubricant for EV gearbox by Neon John [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Re: Honda Fuel Cell Concept with Home H2 Refueling by Lightning Ryan [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Re: window defrost, radiant heat efficiency by Rush [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Re: Emeter Test by Rush [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) RE: clutchless vw by Roger Stockton [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) RE: Emeter Test by Roger Stockton [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) RE: On getting back the EV grin by Roger Stockton [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Re: Used UPS battery questions by John Luck Home [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Zombie Final Runs of the Season by Roy LeMeur [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Re: window defrost by jerry halstead [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Re:Current Eliminator News by Ken Trough [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) Re: clutchless vw by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Re: window defrost by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Re: Current Eliminator News by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) 52 mile commute? by blond_ambition777 [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) Re: Current Eliminator News by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) Re: 52 miles range by [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- Hello Mark, The braking system has been modified with Force 10 Supertwin 2-piston caliper, which is design for 1969 to 1979 GM vehicles which you can get from Jeg's. There is no problem in stopping, even on glare ice! The tire tread pattern is design for ice and hard pack snow. The tires allow about 100 lbs. per square inch to the pavement. Some standard vehicles are as low as 10 lbs per sq.in. which provides no traction on ice. This is not just a EV to haul one or two persons around. I built a new house and I haul all my building materials in it, except for the roof rafters and concrete. The porcelain floor tile weigh 2000 lbs per trip!! Just jack up the suspension air pressure to level the car. Its look like you have your heating system engineer out for your needs. Roland - Original Message - From: Mark Hansonmailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edumailto:ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Sent: Friday, October 21, 2005 7:26 AM Subject: Re: window defrost, radiant heat efficiency Hi Roland etc. Wow that's quite an engineering feat, sounds like a tank, 30ea T-145 batteries 2100lbs of battery weight, I wonder how it handles/stops though. I don't think I could afford to charge something similar at my 12.66c per kWh however. Anyway, the most efficient way to warm electrically is with radiant heat such as the 15 Fostoria replacement 750W quartz enclosed nichrome coil tubes I found at Northern Tool yesterday for $10 each. I'm mounting one between the dash/windshield with a parabolic reflector made out of U shaped bent aluminum chrome painted (2 x 15 area). At 72V in my buggy (9ea 8V batts) it will be about 300W and I'll also mount one down below for radiant floor heat and put on a Fet switch to the main accessory contactor. I did this before in my cheese wedge a few (well about 25 years) ago when there was no heater core/blower assembly already in the vehicle. These Fostoria type heaters are the kind used at ski resort ticket windows where you get your lift tickets and produce an effective warmth 3X more than convection (blowing) heaters. (Heating electrically though is 4X less efficient than other means per dollar spent but hey, it's convenient in an EV). Mark - Original Message - From: Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED]mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edumailto:ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Sent: Thursday, October 20, 2005 10:21 PM Subject: Re: window defrost Hello Mike, My EV is in the EV Album To get to it just type using google: Roland Wiench 1977 El Camino Electro I You will see the layout of the accessory drive system, the Zilla controller that is under the gray box on the firewall. Everything is so tight, that it's hard to see the cooling system for the Zilla. The motor which was a GE 11 inch is being replace with a Warp of equal size is a double shaft, where the pilot shaft couples to a accessory drive using a Dodge Spline Flex coupler. The accessory drive is self supporting which is mounted on 4 donut engine mounts. A drive shaft is extended from the motor pilot shaft threw three face bearings and extends out the from of the accessory support. A belt drive is mounted on this drive shaft which than powers a standard power steering, the alternator/inverter, air condition pump and a GMC diesel vacuum pump that does not go pop pop pop. Under the top mounting plate that normally would hold a engine radiator, is the heater hot water fill tank. Below that on the platform that
EV digest 4842
EV Digest 4842 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: clutchless vw by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) 52 mile follow-up by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Re: window defrost by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) RE: clutchless vw by Roger Stockton [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Re:123 STREET E CLUB by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Autoclutching an EV, was Re: clutchless vw by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Re: clutchless vw by Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) Re: can a plane be an electric vehicle (at least a little bit)? by Nick Austin [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Re: clutchless vw by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Re: can a plane be an electric vehicle (at least a little bit)? by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) RE: Autoclutching an EV, was Re: clutchless vw by Roger Stockton [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Re: charger woes, obsolete parts by Jim Coate [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) RE: Autoclutching an EV, was Re: clutchless vw by Andre' Blanchard [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Exhaust in Translation by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) 123 E club by Ken Trough [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) Re: Autoclutching an EV, was Re: clutchless vw by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) Re: clutchless vw by Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) RE: Current Eliminator News by rcboyd [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) RE: Autoclutching an EV, was Re: clutchless vw by James Massey [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) RE: Autoclutching an EV, was Re: clutchless vw by Roger Stockton [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) Re: charger woes, obsolete parts by James Massey [EMAIL PROTECTED] 22) RE: can a plane be an electric vehicle (at least a little bit)? by rcboyd [EMAIL PROTECTED] 23) RE: Current Eliminator News by Rod Hower [EMAIL PROTECTED] 24) Re: Autoclutching an EV, was Re: clutchless vw by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 25) RE: Autoclutching an EV, was Re: clutchless vw by Roger Stockton [EMAIL PROTECTED] 26) Re: 123 E club by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 27) Re: clutchless vw by Jimmy Argon [EMAIL PROTECTED] 28) Re: 123 STREET E CLUB by Ryan Stotts [EMAIL PROTECTED] 29) Re: can a plane be an electric vehicle (at least a little bit)? by Danny Miller [EMAIL PROTECTED] 30) Re: 123 STREET E CLUB by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 31) Re: 123 STREET E CLUB by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 32) article: Tortoise Wins Greenpower Final by Paul Wujek [EMAIL PROTECTED] 33) FW: [Oeva-list] Green cars all the rage at Tokyo Motor Show by Roy LeMeur [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- One option is to convert an auto-stick model. The auto-stick was a manual tranny with a vacuum motor to automatically operate the clutch. If you can't locate an original autostick tranny, you could certainly rig up an electric or vacuum-operated mechanism to disengage the clutch when a button on the shifter is pressed. Since an EV doesn't need to have the clutch feathered like an ICE, seems a simple in-and-out solenoid switch would work just as well as a pedal. Not being a mechanic, I don't know if you could just mount a momentary switch to the shift knob and get a solenoid with a long enough throw to pull on the clutch cable, but the theory sounds plausible. ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Wow, what timing! Sent off my response to Kitty and a few minutes later the FedEx man has an over-night pouch with all the info and places to sign! Whatever the range, I'll be happy to have a dependable EV again (and Blue Sky Motors may see me again to maintain it). Ampabout entries as they occur. ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Hello Jerry, The total cost, includes other systems that were added for experimental test. The dash indicators and controls was for many other systems that was in this car, one was a series hybrid engine that ran on hydrogen. We came to the conclusion that a turbine engine would be best to run on hydrogen than a 4 cycle engine. If you take any classic car you want to keep for ever while maintaining it in perfect condition, is going to cost about the same as buying a new car every 5 years. Today a complete stripping and painting a car cost about $5000.00 which includes color sanding. This car has painted four times and the vinyl top replaced four times. Replacing the motor, controller, batteries, battery charger, and upgrading the indications several times, cost about $20,000.00 each time. The EV also have a complete set of spares parts, including motor, controller, contactors and outboard charger. The only original item I retain is the CableForm 400 amp contactors which are design for the voltage drop of the battery pack. These contactors do not work off 12 VDC. These contactors use the battery pack voltage. My battery pack voltage is 180 volts, so these contactors will work from 230 volts and will not drop off until the voltage gets down to 11 volts. They will
EV digest 4843
EV Digest 4843 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: can a plane be an electric vehicle (at least a little bit)? by Danny Miller [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Re: motor selection - AC55 vs Siemens - torque calculation by Seth Allen [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Re: motor selection - AC55 vs Siemens by Seth Allen [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Logisystems controller works well. by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Re: 123 STREET E CLUB by Ryan Stotts [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Re: Emeter Test by Rush [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Re: clutchless vw by john [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) RE: clutchless vw by Jeff Shanab [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Re: 123 STREET E CLUB by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Re: charger woes, obsolete parts by Jeff Shanab [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Meter polarity question by TiM M [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Re:123 STREET E CLUB by Rich Rudman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) Re: Meter polarity question by James Massey [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Re: 123 STREET E CLUB by Roderick Wilde [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Re: motor selection - AC55 vs Siemens by Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) Re: 123 STREET E CLUB by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) Re: S-10 now stripped by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) Re: 123 STREET E CLUB by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) Re: 123 STREET E CLUB by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) Re: 2 cars, 4 options. by Bob Rice [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) Free Subaru 360/600 body no motor by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 22) Autoclutching an EV, was Re: clutchless vw by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 23) Clutchless EVs by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 24) RE: can a plane be an electric vehicle (at least a little bit)? by Noel P. Luneau [EMAIL PROTECTED] 25) OT: LEDs Will Replace everything! by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 26) Re: Meter polarity question by Neon John [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- You'd be amazed at the resistance to change the aircraft industry has historically had. The resistance to adopt fuel injection comes to mind. In fact, many craft even lack electronic ignition and still use a points-based ignition. I'm not in the industry but I hear it's just there isn't a lot of trust in new electronic designs for one. Not entirely unwarranted, we've probably all heard of someone with a lemon car whose computer just killed the engine for no apparent reason. Nobody wants to be in that one lemon aircraft. The general aviation market in the US has been quite dead for a long time. Many of the craft in service were built in the 70's, then lack of strong market in private planes and crushing liability lawsuits are blamed for keeping it down and there isn't much for new craft available. Danny rcboyd wrote: When you develop an electric system that weighs in at total of three hundred pounds, puts out a hundred horsepower for over three hours, and can be recharged in 15 minutes, then you can compete with a Cessna 150 or Piper super cub. Bob Boyd (Over 15000 hours in all kinds of aircraft from gliders to four engine jets. WW2 fighter pilot. Aircraft mechanics aircraft and power plant license, and Instructor and Airline transport pilot ratings.) -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, October 20, 2005 3:48 PM To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Subject: can a plane be an electric vehicle (at least a little bit)? Is anyone familiar with work being done regarding fuel efficiency improvements of personal or business aircraft? The incorporation of solar electric or plug-in concepts within aviation is something that I've been curious about for a long time and I'm very interested to chat with people who are involved in this area. If anyone can advise about resources related to alternative fuels for aviation, I would really appreciate it. Thanks, Brad ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- FWIW, the efficiency numbers on the Solectria/ Azure dyno ran lower than those at Baldor. Solectria measurement parts were NIST traceable, and I presume Baldor's setup was traceable, also. So the efficiency numbers they post are low compared to a measurement on a notable motor manufacturers dyno. FWIW. I always liked the AC55. I just thought it needed a bigger inverter to drive it. A 420ARMS (600A peak) unit would be nice, as would a 600V bus. I always wanted to suff one in my VW Golf. Seth On 10/21/05, Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Nick wrote: hp = torque * RPM / 5252 This is in the USA. Everywhere else it's just torque*rev per second, period. No need to memorize other numbers. Actually that formula for HP is true EVERYWHERE in the world. If you want to solve for a different measurement of power, then yes, obviously the formula will be different. -- If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has 4 lines of
EV digest 4844
EV Digest 4844 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: 2 cars, 4 options. by Jack Knopf [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Re: 2 cars, 4 options. Both bad by jerry dycus [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Re: OT: LEDs Will Replace everything! by Shawn Rutledge [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Re: 123 STREET E CLUB by David Chapman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Re: OT: LEDs Will Replace everything! by Danny Miller [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) zilla cooling pumps on a saturday morning. by Jeff Shanab [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Volts rabbit conversion: Transmission fluid. by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) Re: can a plane be an electric vehicle (at least a little bit)? by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) can a plane be an electric vehicle (at least a little bit)? by Marvin Campbell [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) RE: Meter polarity question by Mueller, Craig M [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Re: can a plane be an electric vehicle (at least a little bit)? by Jimmy Argon [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) White Zombie Returns to attempt 11's at PIR Tonight! by John Wayland [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) Re: Lift-off at 6:00 Tonight at PIR! by John Wayland [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Re: Lift-off at 6:00 Tonight at PIR! by Ryan Stotts [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Re: can a plane be an electric vehicle (at least a little bit)? by Ken Trough [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) Re: clutchless vw by David Roden [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) Re: OT: LEDs Will Replace everything! by David Roden [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) Re: PFC or 'Baby' Charger... by David Roden [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) Re: 2 cars, 4 options. by David Roden [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) Re: PFC or 'Baby' Charger... by Christopher Zach [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) Re: OT: LEDs Will Replace everything! by Nick 'Sharkey' Moore [EMAIL PROTECTED] 22) Re: 123 STREET E CLUB by Rich Rudman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 23) Re: can a plane be an electric vehicle (at least a little bit)? by Danny Miller [EMAIL PROTECTED] 24) Re: 123 STREET E CLUB by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 25) Re: motor selection - AC55 vs Siemens by Seth Allen [EMAIL PROTECTED] 26) Re: can a plane be an electric vehicle (at least a little bit)? by Jimmy Argon [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- Keep an open mind, convert the Lincoln and Learn from it. - Original Message - From: Bob Rice [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Sent: Saturday, October 22, 2005 8:40 AM Subject: Re: 2 cars, 4 options. - Original Message - From: Adams, Lynn [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Sent: Friday, October 21, 2005 10:25 AM Subject: RE: 2 cars, 4 options. : Wednesday, October 19, 2005 8:46 PM To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Subject: 2 cars, 4 options. Greetings, been googling, waiting for the mailman to bring the Brandt book, read Electric Dreams...now I need some advice... I have at this moment 2 donor cars in my driveway. I'd like to hear if there is any sage advice out there. 1. My father's 1993 Mazda 626. The ICE needs main seals and timing belt, $700 worth. It's mine as soon as the title turns up. Hi Seth an' All; 2, 1989 Lincoln Town Car. It was donated to my synagogue, and I haven't decided what to do with it. It's worth $50 by weight. The Lincoln?? Well, whynot? You could do a Red Beastie 40 T 105's aboard, like the Toyota pickup of that name done years ago. He clamed in excess of 100 miles, used it for towing OTHER EV's on trailers. I have fantesised about Towncars, lincolns, See ENOUGH of them in NYC. They COULD be done. As for beefing them up, the folks that make stretch limos out of them must get hold of beefier springs brakes etc, a stretch would weigh more than a standard limo, EVen electric. Finding a standard tranny, might be tricky, though, guess ya COULD go with the auto that came with it?A 11 inch motor by Warp would be just the thing.No tire burning thing, it would ooze along like a Lincoln duz normally.The CD would be better than a pickup?? It would be the first Linc' on the EV Album, for sure! My two Watts worth Bob ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Hi Jack and All, Just what do you want him to learn? How to build a useless EV? Anyone building a 4,000-5,000 lb EV deserves what they get, an expensive pile that can't get out of it's own way. EV's cost what they weigh so to get an economicly viable EV, you must pay attention to weight, drag as it directly influneces cost . Driving it way up so it's worse than an ICE and slow as molasses. Or use an base glider with a much lower weight, good aero and have a good, reliable, cost effective, quick EV. Your choice but I know which one I'd go for. The facts are a good lightweight glider can cost very little as good cars with blown engines can be picked up for
EV digest 4845
airplanes (that can carry a human, i.e. *not* RC model airplanes): the Lange Antares (www.lange-flugzeugbau.com/english/menu/menu-prod.htm) and the Alisport Silent (www.alisport.com/eu/eng/silent_b.htm). Also, as for solar-powered flight, the Swiss adventurer Bertrand Piccard (the guy who first circumnavigated the globe non-stop in a hot air balloon) is building a (manned) solar-powered airplane capable of flying non-stop around the world, a feat he expects to attempt as the pilot sometime around 2010, I believe. I don't have a link, but you can google it. Charles Whalen On Thursday, October 20, 2005 6:48 PM, Brad wrote: Is anyone familiar with work being done regarding fuel efficiency improvements of personal or business aircraft? The incorporation of solar electric or plug-in concepts within aviation is something that I've been curious about for a long time and I'm very interested to chat with people who are involved in this area. If anyone can advise about resources related to alternative fuels for aviation, I would really appreciate it. Thanks, Brad ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- - Original Message - From: Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Sent: Saturday, October 22, 2005 11:07 PM Subject: Re: Volts rabbit conversion: Transmission fluid. Got a Diesel Rabbit to convert to electric. 9 inch and rear battery box already in. I'm assuming it is geared a little lower. What is a good synthetic to use. I'm thinking Royal Purple, Amsoil or Redline might be options. What works well and lasts. Protecting the tranny would be nice too. Hi Lawrence; Welcome to the club! The VW Diseasel Rabbit conversion one! I ran just Auto trans fluid, the wine colored stuff EVerybody else seems to use in auto-trannies. When I helped my kid change a tranny, 4 speed, on a Chevy S-10 I drained the fluid, expection to get the heavy sludge that I am used to in trannies, Surprise! The red stuff poured out! I called my friendly Chevy place to ask if this was right? They sed that it was, EVen thou the truck was a Diseasel, didn't make any differance. You S-10 Pilots out there, arent yours oiled with Auto tranny fluid? I guess you could go with that expensive stuff J Wayland uses in the Zombie? Hey! John, what was that stuff ya had me hunt down in PDX for the Zombie , before the LAST time I was out there??Would ya use it in a Rabbit trannie??Good wnough to protect the Zombie's dif, would be able to take Bunny gears in stride? As for gear ratios, I don't remenber any differance in performance, as I played musical transmissions with it, had a 5 speed(best) and a 4 right now. Have a 5 speed out of a GTI Bunny to try. The 5 speed will give ya over 80 with a 120 volt system, allowing you to actually PASS stuff on the freeway!Don't go crazy, or you'll be walking homeg!Did about 250 amp, balanced out at 80 on one of the very FEW relatively leval streatches of the Connecticut Turnpike! Probably coulda done more 'cept for the $%^ hills! Another thought; VW Jetta rear drums and backing plates are a nice bolt on upgrade for your brakes. If you wanna carrry on in this mode I have seen the bigger discs from a GTI rabbit, ya need to go to 14 inch wheels to get them in, though. The GTI aluninum wheels would dress it up a bit, too. I never gott that far with mine.Just ideas, talk to your local VW garu-es. You can use the Diseasel vacuum pump, too. pull off the helical gear, refit with a large 4-5 inch pully, make a mounting bracket and mount it on the front, you DO have a shaft on thre comm end?)Small pully, as the motor goes plenty fast to work the pump. Run a cheepo plastic tube up to the vacuum booster, yur all set! Car's used to that pump anyhow. Belt the pump to the motor. You wanna use a light as possable belt to avoid hugh belt tension, to wear out the sleave bearings, as threy arent designed with side thrust in mind. They turn easy, very little drag.You can actually BUY new diaphrams for these pumps EVen! Any VW parts guy has them! Because these are splash lubed on the Diseasel, you hafta give them a squirt of oil, when your consience gets to you. I added a grease fitting to the plate, under the crankshaft on mine. If it goes dry it will remind you with squeeling, I just crawl under and pull the belt, and grease or oil it when I get home!! I can hear the growns of the vacuum pump set, but whatthehell it works! Cheep, too!Quiet, you cut a few inches of rubber hose, stick it on the Exhaust, stuff that with cut up scrubby pads! Voila! Nio Oink Oink sound that compressers and vacuum pumps often say! A tip of the hat to Tony Ascrizzi for that one! Seeya Bob ---End Message---
EV digest 4846
EV Digest 4846 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Ford Ranger DC/DC pinout? by Mark Farver [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Re: charger woes, obsolete parts by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Re: Jabsco Zilla pump by Jeff Shanab [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) wallmart heater cores by Jeff Shanab [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Re: wallmart heater cores by Doug Weathers [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Re: DC-DC Upconverter Reqd by John Luck Home [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Daddy Says Don't by Bill Dennis [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) Re: Daddy Says Don't by Nick Viera [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Re: clutchless vw by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Re: zilla cooling pumps on a saturday morning. by Rich Rudman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) RE: Max current w/top terminal UPS batteries? by Mark Fowler [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Re: Daddy Says Don't by [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) RE: Daddy Says Don't by Mark Fowler [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Re: Daddy Says Don't by Nick 'Sharkey' Moore [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) RE: Daddy Says Don't by Bill Dennis [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) RE: Max current w/top terminal UPS batteries? by jerry dycus [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) Re: Daddy Says Don't by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) Re: DC-DC Upconverter Reqd by Otmar [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) The range issue by Ryan Stotts [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) Re: Daddy Says Don't by Ryan Stotts [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) RE: Daddy Says Don't by Bill Dennis [EMAIL PROTECTED] 22) Re: wallmart heater cores by James Massey [EMAIL PROTECTED] 23) lithium ion SuperPolymer battery by Ryan Stotts [EMAIL PROTECTED] 24) Re: DC-DC Upconverter Reqd by Rich Rudman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 25) Re: Daddy Says Don't by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 26) Re: The range issue by Ryan Stotts [EMAIL PROTECTED] 27) Re: 1 to 5W ISOLATED DC to DC @ $15 by Paul G. [EMAIL PROTECTED] 28) Re: Max current w/top terminal UPS batteries? by Tim Stephenson [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- Does someone have the pinout for the control connector for the control connector on the Ford Ranger DC/DC module? I have a small schematic of how to hook it up in a test configuration. To enable the DC/DC pins 4 and 6 must be connected, but the connector is not numbered. The connector has 3 rows of pins: 3 in the top row, 4 in the middle and two in the final row. Thanks Mark ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- From: Jeff Shanab I am gonna second the senteient about electrolytics going bad by increased ESR, not loss of capacitance... From what I gather, designers can design to different levels of stress on these caps and different degrees of dependence on the low ESR. When you read electrolytic, think battery. Electrolytics and batteries are a lot alike, and have a lot of the same issues with regards to life, environment, failure modes, etc. A common mistake made by inexperienced designers is to assume that electrolytic capacitor's specifications will remain stable. Not so! Look at the specs; there is a *huge* tolerance window (-20% to +100% is common), and rarely will the manufacturer specify them any longer than 1000 to 2000 hours. As an electrolytic ages, its capacitance and voltage rating go down, and its ESR and leakage go up. The capacitor is bad when these values go outside the range that the manufacturer allowed for. Suppose your circuit needs 100uf minimum, an ESR of 0.1ohm maximum to work, and applies up to 30vdc max. An inexperienced or cheapskate engineer might use a 120uf 35vdc capacitor with a 0.05ohm ESR. But if he does, the product will fail in a year or two (probably just long enough to get out of warranty). If he expects that product to still work in 5-10 years, he needs to use at least DOUBLE the minimum capacitance, and a considerable safety margin in ESR and voltage -- a 220uf 50vdc 0.02ohm ESR capacitor will have a far better chance of surviving. The hotter the environment, the shorter the capacitor's life. But, ESR also goes up drastically as the capacitor gets cold. And, if the capacitor sits idle for long periods of time, its voltage rating falls and its leakage current goes up drastically. Are the electrolytics of today better than 10 years ago? Is there a way around this problem? I'd say the best electrolytics are better, but the cheapest ones are worse. You can buy electrolytics for half the cost today that you could 10 years ago, but you get what you pay for (or rather, you don't get what you didn't pay for)! Conversely, modern electrolytics intended for switchmode power supplies are indeed much better than 10 or 20 years ago. But the basic fact remain; don't use electrolytics if you want the product to have a high probability of still working in 10 years. If you *must* use electrolytics, then design in a huge safety factor; like 5:1 or 10:1 so the
EV digest 4848
EV Digest 4848 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Dreaming by Dave [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) RE: EV parts on EBay by Bill Dennis [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Re: The range issue by Ralph Merwin [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) RE: DC-DC Upconverter Reqd by Christopher Robison [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Re: OT: LEDs Will Replace everything! by Mark Hanson [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) New global map for EVers by Ken Trough [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Re: Dreaming by Bob Rice [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) Re: wallmart heater cores by Joe Strubhar [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Re: window defrost, radiant heat efficiency by Joe Strubhar [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Re: wallmart heater cores, comments by Bob Rice [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Re: wallmart heater cores by Jeff Shanab [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Re: The range issue by David Roden [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) RE: window defrost, radiant heat efficiency by David Roden [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Re: OT: LEDs Will Replace everything! by David Roden [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Re: clutchless vw by Bob Rice [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) Re: Dreaming by [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- 11s means that the vehicle can run a standing 1/4 inbetween 11 and 12 seconds. David C. Wilker Jr. USAF (RET) I live in the heavens. I reside on mountain tops. I am at constant vigil over thee. I monitor thy righteous ways. Thy levels art mine to command. When thou art in trouble, I will help thee through distorted times. When thou art low, the touch of my hand shall raise thy spirit to the proper level. When thou are too high, I shall terminate thee with a swift stroke of my sword. When thy wires are frayed and broken, my angels shall use solder and iron to heal thee. Thou art the circuit, I am the chosen one, I am the TECH CONTROLLER! - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Sent: Sunday, October 23, 2005 8:46 PM Subject: Re: Dreaming HI I AM A NEW GUY WITH THE SAME IDEA BUT MY COMMUTE WOULD ONLY BE 44MILE ROUND TRIP , I HAVE BEEN TALKING TO A FELLOW ON THE NW COAST ABOUT HIS FORD RANGER EV . IT HAS BAD BATTERIES AND THE BMS IS SHOT . I WAS THINKING THAT I COULD CHANGE THE BATTERIES TO NIMH AND OR ULTRA CAPS . DOES ANYONE HAVE A SOURCE FOR EITHER ? ALSO I AM NOT INTO RACING SO WHAT DO U MEAN BY THE 11'S ? WHAT IS MEANT WHEN U GIVE C#'S ABOUT CHARGING ? WHAT ARE U MONATORING ? VOLT ? AMPS? OR COMBONATION ? TIME ? THANKS FRED -- Original message -- At 09:14 PM 23/10/05 -0400, you wrote: I am dreaming of an EV to commute to work about 76 miles round trip, some hills, chilly Connecticut weather, and including about 30 miles on the 4 lane super slab. Do I need to charge at work? Currently no provision here for that. What car, motor, controller, and batteries available today would do this? http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/037.html Red Beastie, probably need battery warming and insulation for no winter range loss. If you *only* need to do the commute, then something like this with aero mods and weight saving tricks with fewer batteries. No load carrying capacity. james ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- This auction ended without the reserve being met. I asked the seller where he got the items, and he replied, These are parts from an Advanced DC Volkswagon kit car. The charger is a Lester. Did ADC make EV kits? If not, any idea who might have been the original vendor on this kit? Thanks. Bill Dennis -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jeff Wilson Sent: Sunday, October 23, 2005 12:11 AM To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List Subject: EV parts on EBay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemru=http%3A%2F%2Fse arch.ebay.com%3A80%2F%2Fsearch%2Fsearch.dll%3Ffrom%3DR40%26satitle%3D8009100 421%26fvi%3D1item=8009100421 ru=http%3A%2F%2Fsearch.ebay.com%3A80%2F%2Fsearch%2Fsearch.dll%3Ffrom%3DR40% 26satitle%3D8009100421%26fvi%3D1item=8009100421 Anyone else see these? Sounds like a good start on an EV. EBay auction item 8009100421 Jeff Wilson USA (Ret) Thou shalt not send me any thing which says unto thee, send this to all thou knowest. Neither shalt thou send me any spam, lest I smite thee. = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Est. yearly US cost to safeguard Persian Gulf oil supply: $50 billion Est. 2001 value of US crude oil imports from Persian Gulf: $19 billion -- Harper's Index, April 2002 ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Ryan Stotts writes: Everyone I talk to about EV's always brings this up. Here's my proposal to this so called problem. Look at all the cars and trucks being made today. The manufacturers could offer these same vehicles
EV digest 4849
to convert) on a vehicle that won't cover all the bases by itself is a pretty hard sell. Or so I've found it, in the time I've been doing these shows. Range is a real problem. I personally don't think we'll solve it by telling people they're wrong to want a car that can go anywhere with roads -- something any ICE car can do. --chris ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Rich Rudman [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Basic test Cool a bucket of hot water... Take 5 gallons, or 20 liters of water... heat to say 150 Deg F. flip on pump and fan measure time to drop 5, 10 ,20, 30 Deg. Take air temp.. , record the volume the system moves by pumping some jugs full of water through the cooling stystem of a Zilla 2K. Use 10 Ft of hose... minimum. Sounds good; heat the water to a steady-state temp, and then with the heat still on see what the new steady state temp is with the cooling system on. Recording temp every few seconds (or minutes, depending on how it is changing) ought to round it out. Probably be necessary to record the ambient temp during the test as well (e.g. the air temp going into the fan, assuming it blows into the rad), as the difference between ambient and water temp will affect the heat transfer. Cheers, Roger. ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- I'll bet it's this kit: http://www.electroauto.com/catalog/kits.shtml#voltsrabbit At least most (all?) of the parts sound the same. On Mon, Oct 24, 2005 at 06:29:25AM -0600, Bill Dennis wrote: This auction ended without the reserve being met. I asked the seller where he got the items, and he replied, These are parts from an Advanced DC Volkswagon kit car. The charger is a Lester. Did ADC make EV kits? If not, any idea who might have been the original vendor on this kit? Thanks. Bill Dennis -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jeff Wilson Sent: Sunday, October 23, 2005 12:11 AM To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List Subject: EV parts on EBay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemru=http%3A%2F%2Fse arch.ebay.com%3A80%2F%2Fsearch%2Fsearch.dll%3Ffrom%3DR40%26satitle%3D8009100 421%26fvi%3D1item=8009100421 ru=http%3A%2F%2Fsearch.ebay.com%3A80%2F%2Fsearch%2Fsearch.dll%3Ffrom%3DR40% 26satitle%3D8009100421%26fvi%3D1item=8009100421 Anyone else see these? Sounds like a good start on an EV. EBay auction item 8009100421 Jeff Wilson USA (Ret) Thou shalt not send me any thing which says unto thee, send this to all thou knowest. Neither shalt thou send me any spam, lest I smite thee. = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Est. yearly US cost to safeguard Persian Gulf oil supply: $50 billion Est. 2001 value of US crude oil imports from Persian Gulf: $19 billion -- Harper's Index, April 2002 ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- From: Jeff Shanab If we connect neutral to tab number 3 (the middle tab) and connect power to 1 and 5 (the edges), will we have 2 elements in series for 240 Volt operation? Yes. There are basically 4 elements; this connects them as two parallel strings of 2 in series each. It will have a nominal voltage rating of 240v. Can I push that to 300V? My thinking is that these are just resistors, except they will increase in resistance to limit the current. So if i insulate (isolate) the unit good enough, 300 Volts shouldn't be a problem and I'll still get 1500W. No; they are *not* resistors! If they were, then their wattage would go up as the square of the voltage increase. A resistive heater that produces 1500w at 240v would produce 1500w x (300/240)^2 = 2343 watts! This would most likely burn it up. These ceramic heating elements change their resistance with temperature. The claimed 1500w (or whatever) on the box is always a lie. If you measure it, that's the initial peak power it produces when cold. As it warms up, its power falls quickly to something in the 800-900w region. The more air you blow through it, the higher the wattage. If you're using it in your EV, with a different fan, then the actual wattage is determined by how much air the fan forces through it. If you use the car's stock squirrel-cage blower, you are likely to get a lot more airflow, and thus a lot more heat. This puts quite a strain on these units, which aren't really built with much safety factor. Note that the actual heating elements are the thin pieces of ceramic between the metal finned pieces. The ceramic is very thin (like 1/16), so the spacing between the finned metal is likewise very tight. I would not trust 300vdc across just two of these elements -- if a bug or leaf gets in there and bridges that gap, an arc could start that would not extinguish until the whole heater (and whatever case it is in) is destroyed! So, I think I would connect your 300vdc to put 3
EV digest 4850
EV Digest 4850 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Orbital dimensions? by acid_lead [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) RE: EV parts on EBay by Bill Dennis [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Re: The 'range issue' (long) by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Re: zilla cooling pumps on a saturday morning. by Rich Rudman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Re: Max current w/top terminal UPS batteries? by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Re: The range issue by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Re: wallmart heater cores by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) RE: Tach Driver by Bill Dennis [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) RE: Tach Driver by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Re: The 'range issue' (long) by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) range extender infrastructure scenario by Carl Clifford [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) RE: The 'range issue' (long) by Adams, Lynn [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) Re: The 'range issue' (long) by Christopher Robison [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Re: The 'range issue' Drag/street S10 by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Re: The 'range issue' (long) by David Roden (Akron OH USA) [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) Re: The range issue by David Roden (Akron OH USA) [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) RE: Dreaming by David Roden (Akron OH USA) [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) Re: The 'range issue' Drag/street S10 by Christopher Robison [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) Re: wallmart heater cores by James Massey [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) RE: window defrost, radiant heat efficiency by James Massey [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) Re: OT: LEDs Will Replace everything! by John Luck Home [EMAIL PROTECTED] 22) Re: The 'range issue' Drag/street S10 by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 23) Re: OT: LEDs Will Replace everything! by Danny Miller [EMAIL PROTECTED] 24) Re: Dreaming by Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- It depends what part of the case. The very edges of the Orbital lid are 7.29 high (one that I measured). http://public.tylinski.fastmail.us//EV/ORBYT/index.html The Orbitals violate the BCI Group 34 height dimension. The proximity of the terminals to the edges make it harder to clamp down. The top has all manner of spurious thingys embossed or stuck in, ensuring that you will not find a useable solid patch of flat lid to clamp to. You can clamp to it, but allow space for a soft rubber pad to spread the load and conform to the thingys. Spread the load because the lid does not feel very solid to begin with. The bottom is not smooth, and the sides are finned over, so efficiently getting heat into the Pb would be a challenge. But you gotta love the built-in recessed handles! Let me know if you need CAD files. It's native SolidWorks, but I can convert to whatever. -GT --- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Chris Tromley [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Still working on the solid models for my EM. I finally got a chance to go to the local Auto Zone to measure an Optima. Surprisingly, the height to the case top (where angle steel would want to lay as a hold-down) is 6.75. Yet the measurements of an Exide Orbital as posted here describe the case top height as 7.5. Is the case of an Orbital *really* 3/4 taller than an Optima? The Orbital overall height is 1/4 higher, and an Optima has the posts on a 1/4 pedestal above the case top, but that still leaves 1/4 unaccounted for. [snip] ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- I thought it might be the ElectroAuto kit too, too, except that the charger is a Lester. Maybe it's an older kit, and ElectroAuto used to ship Lesters. Bill Dennis -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Nick Austin Sent: Monday, October 24, 2005 11:25 AM To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Subject: Re: EV parts on EBay I'll bet it's this kit: http://www.electroauto.com/catalog/kits.shtml#voltsrabbit At least most (all?) of the parts sound the same. On Mon, Oct 24, 2005 at 06:29:25AM -0600, Bill Dennis wrote: This auction ended without the reserve being met. I asked the seller where he got the items, and he replied, These are parts from an Advanced DC Volkswagon kit car. The charger is a Lester. Did ADC make EV kits? If not, any idea who might have been the original vendor on this kit? Thanks. Bill Dennis -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jeff Wilson Sent: Sunday, October 23, 2005 12:11 AM To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List Subject: EV parts on EBay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemru=http%3A%2F%2Fse arch.ebay.com%3A80%2F%2Fsearch%2Fsearch.dll%3Ffrom%3DR40%26satitle%3D8009100 421%26fvi%3D1item=8009100421 ru=http%3A%2F%2Fsearch.ebay.com%3A80%2F%2Fsearch%2Fsearch.dll%3Ffrom%3DR40% 26satitle%3D8009100421%26fvi%3D1item=8009100421 Anyone else see these? Sounds like a good
EV digest 4851
EV Digest 4851 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) RE: The 'range issue' by Chuck Hays [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Re: EV digest 4850 by Reverend Gadget [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Re: The 'range issue' (long) by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Re: wallmart heater cores by Neon John [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Re: Daddy Says Don't by Neon John [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Re: Orbital dimensions? by John Wayland [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) More about tires by Nick Viera [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) RE: More about tires by Phil Marino [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) RE: More about tires by Jimmy Argon [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) RE: More about tires by Ricky Suiter [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Don't drive away with your cord dragging: was Daddy says don't by Ryan Bohm [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Re: Lift-off at 6:00 Tonight at PIR! by John Wayland [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) Re: More about tires by Nick Viera [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Re: The 'range issue' (long) by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Re: Don't drive away with your cord dragging: was Daddy says don't by Nick Viera [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) Re: The 'range issue' Drag/street S10 by Doug Hartley [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) Re: More about tires by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) Re: More about tires by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) Re: White Zombie Returns to attempt 11's at PIR Tonight! by Mike Ellis [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) Re: Lift-off at 6:00 Tonight at PIR! by Roderick Wilde [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- From: Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] Here, the problem is that people believe (and have been loudly encouraged to believe) that they *must* have a car with infinite range. A good point, Lee, but I'm gonna take issue with it in any event. Sorry. :) As has been pointed out here, any ICE car has an effective infinite range by the mere fact that recharging it takes ten minutes max, with a cup of coffee and a stop in the washroom. Matter of infrastructure. My old pickup could go right at 1,000 miles between fillups -- but then carrying 75 gallons of diesel will give you that kind of range at 15 mpg. I only used that range about once a year, on trips where I only filled up at the end of each day's 1,000 miles of driving. When I look at my current situation, 40km/25 mi. from work, in a part of the continent where it gets a little cool in the winter and where I have a lot of hills to drive up -- I see that according to the best wisdom I've been able to glean from this list that I should convert an S-10 or a Ranger and expect to charge while I'm parked at work. Well and good, but there's no infrastructure for it. I came in here wanting an electric motorcycle -- and quickly discovered that I couldn't get any- where with it. There isn't a place to charge it closer than the halfway point of any journey it might make for me. Based on what I'm seeing, what makes the most sense for me is a plug-in hybrid -- I will need that gas/ethanol/biodiesel engine, but not all the time. I just can't get anywhere without it at the current state of the technology. We already have a Civic Hybrid, which is a darn good car although not a true parallel hybrid. Still, I'm turning in 60 mpg on my daily 50-mile roundtrip home-work-home. I don't need infinite range. I want to be able to access energy technology infrastructures that allow me to increase the efficiency of my own situation. Again currently, the state of the art points toward a plug-in hybrid -- which can also charge itself or be cord dependent -- that will allow me to move around town and for short trips on the electric while preserving the flexibility of the gas engine. The name of the game as far as I'm concerned is energy diversity and flexibility -- use the right tool for the job as my Dad would say. My Cdn$0.02, anyway. Chuck ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Ah, but the Orbitals have two square holes in the top that make a great hold down. I just put 15 orbitals in my current GT6 conversion that way. They are really solid. I used a pair of long 5/16 bolts with fender washers to a set of weld nuts attached to the bottom of the battery boxes. The holes are 3 1/8 inches apart down the center of the battery. I just did a time lapse of the conversion that I will post to my site once I have cut down the frame size.(I shot it in high def). I will put up pictures of the details as well. Gadget Date: Mon, 24 Oct 2005 18:35:56 - From: acid_lead [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Chris Tromley ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Subject: Re: Orbital dimensions? It depends what part of the case. The very edges of the Orbital lid are 7.29 high (one that I measured). http://public.tylinski.fastmail.us//EV/ORBYT/index.html The Orbitals violate the BCI Group 34 height dimension. The proximity of the terminals to the edges make it harder to clamp
EV digest 4855
EV Digest 4855 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: The 'range issue' (long) by Jeff Shanab [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Range Isuue by kluge [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Relative pollution (was permission... was range...) by kluge [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) unsubscribe by Randy [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) RE: 20 mi range: 120 VDC vs 96 VDC pack by bruce parmenter [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Re: Lift-off at 6:00 Tonight at PIR! by John Wayland [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Re: Relative pollution (was permission... was range...) by Arthur W. Matteson [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) Re: Walmart heater cores, how to wire in series? by Jeff Shanab [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Re: Lift-off at 6:00 Tonight at PIR! by John Wayland [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Re: clutchless vw by Dale Curren [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Re: EV Insurance by Bob Bath [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) I'm starting an EV drag racing team by Barry Reiswerg [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) Re: Sudden drop in voltage by Jimmy Argon [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Re: Lift-off at 6:00 Tonight at PIR! by Mark Farver [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Re: 1.591 second 60 ft. WZ Launch Video by John Westlund [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) Re: 1.591 second 60 ft. WZ Launch Video by Ryan Stotts [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) Re: Max current w/top terminal UPS batteries? by Jimmy Argon [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) Re: Max current w/top terminal UPS batteries? by Jimmy Argon [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) RE: Getting permission to recharge at work (WAS The 'range issue' (long)) by Don Cameron [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) Re: Walmart heater cores, how to wire in series? by Paul G. [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) RE: 240vac charging from two 120 outlets? by Cor van de Water [EMAIL PROTECTED] 22) Re: 1.591 second 60 ft. WZ Launch Video by Otmar [EMAIL PROTECTED] 23) Hooking up three battery chargers in series by Robert Chew [EMAIL PROTECTED] 24) RE: Sudden drop in voltage by Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3) [EMAIL PROTECTED] 25) Re: The 'range issue' , charging at work by Mark Hanson [EMAIL PROTECTED] 26) high voltage heater options? by David Brandt [EMAIL PROTECTED] 27) ADC Regen again by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 28) Re: Walmart heater cores by Joe Strubhar [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- Maybe what we need is to see some commercial recharging stations. For example. the mall kiosk metaphore. A buisness that rents 2 adjacet parking stalls with power. The mall gains the additional foot traffic and is payed for the use of the space. The buisness sells the power at a profit (legal question can you resell power? or just semantics; power free service is .25/kwh) ATM card style billing or small cash reader(no cash means no risk of someone stealing it) or Users could enter phone# and passcode and the internal modem connects and keeps track and charges it as a phone call on your bill? Calling charger phone number gets automated voice of in use or not, type in passcode and it tells you how much charge you have. Internet connection and mini web server lets the status of all kiosks be checked by owner. (always on cell connection? :-) ) etc. Bigger buisness EV parts store and coffee shop with chargeing. To heck with the malls, target the starbucks! I think at the moment chargeing(as in not free) is best, it shows off the practicality to gassers and gives incentive to start buisnesses. Question 1 Because Isolation is such an issue, as has been discussed on this list, and we can't know what chargers are gonna plug in, would putting a isolation transformer in the station protect the public reguardless of the onboard charger. Question 2 Since we only provide 110 or 220, we wouldn't need to worry about pack voltages, but what about limiting amperage draw other than a breaker tripping? would that just be the responsibility of the patron? I have been thinking of starting a chargeing station at my house, but it isn't anywhere special in a town with very few EV'ers; Fresno California. ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Christopher Robinson said: snip Regardless of our politics most of us on this list are believers, for our own different reasons. Some have simply seen the desirable traits of EVs and feel it's worth whatever hassles they present, others do so for philosophical or idealistic reasons; some just think they're a cool, geeky technical challenge. But what most everyone here has in common is the unusual choice they've made -- a choice which by its very nature tends to make a lot of people politely smile and say 'that's very nice.' Amen, brother! A little reality check isn't prohibited by the list rules, is it? ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Then there is the matter that any document claiming that EVs are cleaner than modern gas cars is simply false. Especially until
EV digest 4857
equipment absolutely flatline, all zeros. Will all cars do that well? No. Will most? Yes. In fact, almost all the current gas vehicle emissions RD has to do with the parked condition and the first 15 seconds of operation when cold. Evaporative emissions control work primarily centers on gas diffusion through the walls of the gas lines and rubber seals. This is the major reason rubber tubing has been mostly replaced with that hard plastic stuff for fuel lines. Startup emissions reduction has generated some pretty wild proposals. Things like electrically heating the catalyst before cranking, using phase change heat storage to dump heat into the block before cranking, electrical intake air heaters and so on. At some point one has to ask which is sillier - the necessary methods or the limits? There is another factor that enters into the comparison that seldom gets discussed - the reliability of diversity. When emission controls are spread across millions of individual emitters (cars), we know two things. One, some small fraction of the systems will always malfunction and two, no single event or cluster of events can cause a near complete failure of the emission systems. Nothing short of a disastrously bad fuel distribution could cause millions of individual emissions systems to fail. Compare that to a state-of-the-art coal plant. The failure of one single component, say, a critical pump or valve, can completely shut down a stage of emission control. If the scrubber shuts down, for example, the plant emits a relatively huge amount of particulates and sulfur. A single small failure can completely defeat the emission controls of millions of EVs by proxy if they were charging from that plant. The naive might think the plant would be shut down during an emissions system failure. Not so, in most places. Most utilities have little or no reserve and so have to operate any plant that can be operated, either intact or patched together with bailing wire and duct tape. They may get an EPA waiver. They may choose to pay the daily fine which, in the case of government utilities like TVA, leads to the curious practice of the left hand giving money to the right hand. There is a situation where EVs have a clear advantage over even modern gas cars and that is in pathological areas such as SoCal. In places like these, if the power plants are located away from the pathological areas so that their emissions don't add to the existing problem, then EVs could greatly help things. Critics point out that this only moves the points of emissions. That is absolutely true but is also absolutely what is needed. Move the emissions to a place where they don't matter. There are only a few places in America where that situation exists. Everywhere else, an EV conversion would not make any difference either way. Here in Cleveland, TN, for example, the air is so clean that the EPA doesn't bother to monitor it full time. Probably not even part time. Trying to sell EVs as a means to clean the air would draw amused shakes of the head. OTOH, with TVA's abundant hydro and nuclear power and the resulting low power rates, selling EVs as a means to reduce transportation costs and hassles would work. If there were any EVs to sell, that is. Like most issues that spawn slogans and causes, the cleanliness of gas vs EV cars is a complex issue that is not amenable to simplistic sound bite answers. The real answers are complex and will be highly region-specific. John --- John De Armond See my website for my current email address http://www.johngsbbq.com Cleveland, Occupied TN ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Yes I do. And no it won't help. You need the carbon on the copper to move the amps. It depends on your regen control and methods. Look up compensating and pole face windings in aircraft Starter generators. Interpoles are also required. You can do regen in a AvDC motor, but you have to do a LOT of things so they don't destroy themselves. What works... may eat brushes up at a good clip. I have a Dyno that uses a 8 inch AvDC as the load. I can dial in what ever field currents I want and then hammer it with a differnet 8 incher driving as a motor. Solid no arcing Regen takes some really creative brush movments. If you can't do this, don't try it. Rich Rudman Manzanita Micro - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2005 6:17 AM Subject: ADC Regen again From the list I understand that the biggest hurdle with ADC regen is arcing of the brushes due to them being slightly advanced for street work. My ADC motor has two pairs of brushes, presumably one set is more advanced than the other and combined they create a slightly advanced magnetic field across the armature with respect to the stator. What if the more advanced pair were disconnected during regen? This would leave the other pair to pick up the regen
EV digest 4858
EV Digest 4858 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: 1.591 second 60 ft. WZ Launch Video by Otmar [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Re: More about tires by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) PFC-20 Running off Prius HV Pack by Edward Ang [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Re: Don't drive away with your cord dragging: was Daddy says don't by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Re: More about tires by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Re: More about tires by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) RE: PFC-20 Running off Prius HV Pack by damon henry [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) Re: The 'range issue' Drag/street S10 by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Re: good name for an EV: hockey stick by Robert Baertsch [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Re: More about tires by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Re: Drivetrain resistance (200A draw @ 30mph - is this normal)? by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Battery Analyzer - Keeping track of AHr's w/confidence by Mueller, Craig M [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) Re: Drivetrain resistance (200A draw @ 30mph - is this normal)? by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Re: Curtis and KSI by Rush [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Re: 200A draw @ 30mph - is this normal (more figures please)? by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) Re: 200A draw @ 30mph - is this normal (more figures please)? by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) Re: 1.591 second 60 ft. WZ Launch Video by Otmar [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) RE: Curtis and KSI by Roger Stockton [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) RE: Max current w/top terminal UPS batteries? by Cor van de Water [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) Re: 1.591 second 60 ft. WZ Launch Video by Mark Farver [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) Dead batteries by Michaela Merz [EMAIL PROTECTED] 22) Re: 1.591 second 60 ft. WZ Launch Video by Otmar [EMAIL PROTECTED] 23) Discover Batteries? by EVdave [EMAIL PROTECTED] 24) OT: Re: good name for an EV: hockey stick by Ken Trough [EMAIL PROTECTED] 25) Re: high voltage heater options? by James Massey [EMAIL PROTECTED] 26) Trade for charging space at work by Jeff Shanab [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- Ot You need to get them contactors flipped faster, and give him some ramp on both the Series launch and the reattack after a S/P switch over. Granted, I can see room for improvement there. And bigger water passages in the Zilla so we don't need a 30 PSI pump to move 2.5 Gallons in less than a couple Eons... They seem to be cooling just fine at the slow flow that they get now. Why do I need more? It would take an awfully good reason to get me to change a design that works so well. That small heatsink is critical the the whole electrical design, it would be very difficult to increase the coolant flow rate if I wanted to. As long as it's working so well, I think it's staying just as it is. I can see that you may need more flow for your charger, maybe we'll need a partial bypass around the controller to provide enough flow to your charger on the same loop. -- -Otmar- http://www.CafeElectric.com/ Home of the Zilla. http://www.evcl.com/914 My electric 914 ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- It will probably work if you use the Prius tires. They have better weight carrying capacity. The problem is the diameter of the tire. Your speedometer won't register properly. If you can find four tires that meet you real(not manufacturers GVW)GVW then you should be alright. Many stock tires will meet this requirement. The smaller and lighter the better in EV tires. I'm looking at Proxima, Invicta, Ultra 800, Integrity and a few others that aren't lrr. Lawrence Rhodes.. - Original Message - From: Ricky Suiter [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Sent: Monday, October 24, 2005 8:09 PM Subject: RE: More about tires Might be worth a shot, I know I personally have seen a set just a few weeks ago on a conversion. The owner said he went to a Saturn dealership and was able to get them a while back. This tire in question is the Michelin Proxima RR in a 175/65/14 (I think). They're rated for 50 psi. I know someone on the Insight list put a set on his Insight and lost a couple mpg compared to the stock Bridgestone Potenza RE92 165/65/14 tire. If you want the lowest rolling resistance and can go for a 165 width tire the Potenza is going to be the lowest rolling resistance tire you can find. Although I suppose a 165 tire and a truck is not going to jive together too well. Jimmy Argon [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:A fellow EVer purchased some of the tires used on the EV1 at our local chevy dealer last year for around $60 each. Does anyone know if these can still be purchased from GM? These are high pressure, low rolling resistance tires. Thanks, Jimmy Later, Ricky 02 Red Insight #559 92 Saturn SC2
EV digest 4859
I have a battery analyzer for my e-Bike project (link below) - I see there is a Batman 3 out that seems to do the same thing, but the sales description seems to point more toward racing applications. My intent is to develop a reliably predictable way to know my state of charge and range (remaining or used) - Have any microprocessors been developed to allow users to input vehicle/pack specific variables (e.g. Peukert, vehicle weight, rolling resistance fudge factor, couple with speedometer to account for drag + input drag coeff., battery life profile) to get an accurate range output? http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPRODProdID=1634 http://www.cloudelectric.com/item.jhtml?UCIDs=866086%7C901767PRID=74047 5 Regards, Craig Mueller ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Lawrence, My VoltsRabbit has the Redline fluid in the transmission (it was a diesel with about 95K on it before conversion). 30K miles later the transmission seems ok. I'll try to check the fluid bottles tonight and post if it is a different name. It's been so long since I looked at them. Apparently there is a super-slippery Redline fluid (use if your tranny is in great shape), and one somewhat less thin for transmissions maybe less perfect. I used the latter. Chuck - Original Message - From: Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Sent: Saturday, October 22, 2005 8:07 PM Subject: Re: Volts rabbit conversion: Transmission fluid. Got a Diesel Rabbit to convert to electric. 9 inch and rear battery box already in. I'm assuming it is geared a little lower. What is a good synthetic to use. I'm thinking Royal Purple, Amsoil or Redline might be options. What works well and lasts. Protecting the tranny would be nice too. Lawrence Rhodes Bassoon/Contrabassoon Reedmaker Book 4/5 doubler Electric Vehicle Solar Power Advocate 415-821-3519 [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Otmar wrote: With what are you comparing the time? I know I've had a hard time determining where the traps are, so I wouldn't trust pedal lift for much. Nothing, its just a rough guess. Without some other form of timing I really have no way of checking. Someone with some Mac programming experience could whip up a app that reads a line of zilla output from the serial port, appends a timestamp and write out the result.. that would be the only way to be certain. Mark Farver ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Hi EVeryone, Lynn wrote: Ok, this thread is getting very interesting. Perhaps if we put together all of our ideas on how get permission (from cooperative or non-cooperative employers) we could increase the availability of charging locations. Those were really good ideas on how to get your employer to consider giving you a charging spot. I confronted the deputy director at place of employment (my day job :) ), and he said he'd take the idea into a weekly staff meeting. It was decided that a parking spot with a plug would be provided. I didn't make as elaborate of a presentation as what Lynn suggested, but I think that would be wise. Once a supervisor has said no, it makes it hard to appeal. Be sure to mention that you realize it is an electric vehicle parking spot only, not your own personal private spot even when or if you don't drive the electric. -Ryan -- - EV Source http://www.evsource.com - Selling names like Zilla, PFC Chargers, WarP, and PowerCheq All at the best prices available! E-mail: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Toll-free: 1-877-215-6781 ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Yea Ot that's what I am seeing. also the 90 Deg bends on your fittings are pretty adverse to High fluid flow. What was getting me is not the flow through our equipment but the need for 3 GPM across the radiator to make thier claimed Rtheta. With as little as flows through the Zilla I am very impressed with what it does with it. Do you know My Z2K makes a really nice 500 watt heatsink...Just by pumping hot water through it??? Messed up my watt flow numbers... I ended up heating the metal bench that the Zilla was on... And relax the water was only 150 Deg F.. The PFC40L charger can use less water, I am doing the really nasty hot weather testing... And un like You I have to beable to run at Full power on a continuous load. The partial bypass and stiffer PSI to make sure you have the flow you need is what I am trying to figure out. Rich Rudman Manzanita Micro - Original Message - From: Otmar [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2005 10:15 AM Subject: Re: 1.591 second 60 ft. WZ Launch Video Ot You need to get them contactors flipped faster, and give him some ramp on both the Series launch and the reattack after a S/P switch over. Granted, I can see room for improvement there. And bigger water passages in the Zilla so we don't need a 30 PSI pump
EV digest 4860
EV Digest 4860 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Permag fields by James Massey [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Re: Relative pollution (was permission... was range...) by Neon John [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Re: EV Insurance by Mark Dodrill [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Re: good name for at EV: hockey stick by Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Re: Radiator by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Re: PFC-20 Running off Prius HV Pack by Jim Coate [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Re: good name for at EV: hockey stick by Jimmy Argon [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) Personal Electrics in Canada by Lock Hughes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) LED headlights ELX-6 by Robert Baertsch [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Re: Personal Electrics in Canada by Lock Hughes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Re: Permag fields by Jim Husted [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Re: Dead batteries by Phil Marino [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) 3 wheel ev that leans called shredder by Marc Breitman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) RE: Permag fields by djsharpe [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Re: EV article in Bay Guardian by Roy LeMeur [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) Re: Radiator by Phil Marino [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) Re: high voltage heater option by Ryan Bohm [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) Re: The 'range issue' Drag/street S10 by Christopher Robison [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) Re: PFC-20 Running off Prius HV Pack by Edward Ang [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) Re: Radiator by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) Re: window defrost by mike golub [EMAIL PROTECTED] 22) Re: LED headlights ELX-6 by Danny Miller [EMAIL PROTECTED] 23) Re: Radiator by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 24) Re: Radiator by Danny Miller [EMAIL PROTECTED] 25) Re: LED headlights ELX-6 by Ricky Suiter [EMAIL PROTECTED] 26) RE: LED headlights ELX-6 by Cor van de Water [EMAIL PROTECTED] 27) Re: Getting permission to recharge at work (WAS The 'range issue' (long)) by [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- Hi All Motor question: - I have had a customer bring me a wheelchair motor that has had the field magnets glued back in place - and draws 10x the current of its' twin. The fields consist of two crescent-shaped magnets each side. Running a small magnet across the face of the fields it 'flips' in the middle. (what I mean by the face is in the center of the magnets' crescent each side [not in a curved path] along a line that is from one side of the field to the other). To me this indicates that one of each side is in back to front? It looks like they used a really good epoxy to put them in with, so I fear I'd have to get them quite hot before they let go in order to re-mount them. Alternatively I could send the field piece away for remagnetising. Advice? Thanks James ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- On Wed, 26 Oct 2005 17:06:28 -0500, Mike Ellis [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: On 10/25/05, Arthur W. Matteson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: And a thing about negativity and grumpiness. When I was 12, I asked my father if he thought I could program an Internet browser into a TI-86 graphing calculator. I'm only 33 and you just made me feel old. Fifty-something, NO SH*T --- John De Armond See my website for my current email address http://www.johngsbbq.com Cleveland, Occupied TN ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- I used Progressive when I had my Pulsar, since they didn't care if it was electric or not. Never had any trouble, but never had any claims either. My other insurance company, Pemco, would not ensure non-gas/diesel vehicles at all. Mark On 10/25/05, Nick Austin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hello, Are there any particularly good companies for EV insurance? Thanks! ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Jimmy Argon wrote: We agree that when the oil companies jack the price of gas or have another phony shortage, we have the freedom to drive on past and let everybody else fight over the pump. We wonder what it will be like to be the only people driving when the real shortage hits! Jimmy Then everyone will try to get an EV one way or the other, and when critical mass will be reached, the price for electricity will be jacked up as well. Simple supply/demand, which is pure business, nothing political. Just wait. Victor ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- In a message dated 10/26/2005 6:30:22 PM Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: This should hold true pumping hot water threw a radiator, if you pump it too fast threw the radiator, it does not stay in long enough for the water to cool down. That is an old wives tale. Faster liquid flow transfers more heat. (must be my turn to be brusque and borderline inconsiderate..) Ben ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Very cool! Did you just add a HV connection point to a stock Prius, or have you made any other modifications? Edward Ang
EV digest 4862
EV Digest 4862 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) (no subject) by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Re: good name for at EV: hockey stick by Bob Rice [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) RE: Orbital dimensions? by Christopher Tromley [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Re: plug-in hybrid, was Re: PFC-20 Running off Prius HV Pack by Edward Ang [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Re: high voltage heater options by David Brandt [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) RE: PFC-20 Running off Prius HV Pack by Cor van de Water [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) EV theory: Will sagging batteries cause high amps destroying controllers? by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) Re: EV theory: Will sagging batteries cause high amps destroying controllers? by Evan Tuer [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) RE: Relative pollution by Dave Davidson [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Re: PFC-20 Running off Prius HV Pack by Rich Rudman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Re: Radiator by Rich Rudman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Re: EV theory: Will sagging batteries cause high amps destroying controllers? by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) RE: 1.591 second 60 ft. WZ Launch Video by Cor van de Water [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) RE: Radiator by Cor van de Water [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Re: PFC-20 Running off Prius HV Pack by Edward Ang [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- Jim, What I didn't realise is that there are also two sets of field windings so it kind of negates my theory. But there must be a way to get good regen on ADC motors! I will keep looking into it. Rod Dilkes Hey Rod Unless you've done some mod's on that motor, you can not have one or two pairs more advanced than the other pairs. What do you mean by advanced more than the other? Each 180 degree pairs are linked through the commentator to each other completing the connection. If you tried to disconnect one or more of the pairs you would open the circuit or put all the current onto just one brush per holder and would fry the brushes. Why do you think you have some brushes advanced more than others? Hope this helps Jim Husted Hi-Torque Electric [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From the list I understand that the biggest hurdle with ADC regen is arcing of the brushes due to them being slightly advanced for street work. My ADC motor has two pairs of brushes, presumably one set is more advanced than the other and combined they create a slightly advanced magnetic field across the armature with respect to the stator. What if the more advanced pair were disconnected during regen? This would leave the other pair to pick up the regen current and possibly reduce arcing. Does anyone on the list have experience with this? Rod Dilkes ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- - Original Message - From: Jimmy Argon [EMAIL PROTECTED] fight over the pump. Hi EVErybody; Victor makes some good points, but my question is arent the Utility Co. s regulated? Sonehow? Like you don't see electricity going up during prime driving season as gas has for YEARS!Maybe I'm thinking of the good old daze BEFORE deregulation, as in CA when Emron owned the power plants? We wonder what it will be like to be the only people driving when the real shortage hits! It will be fun, BEFORE Yahoos that are bummed out because THEY can't get gas, smash out yur windshields or torch your car. You better be packing a piece at this point anyhow.They were shooting at the rescue choppers in New Orleons. But it would sure be great to drive in a SUV free world, for awile. Convert a Sherman Tank anybody?? Seeya Bob ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Eric Poulsen wrote: Rather than design your frame around one particular battery, why not choose a range of possible batteries, and make sure your boxes can accommodate the largest? You can shim the smaller ones with expanded polystyrene to prevent shifting, or make a metal internal frame that bolts to the box, but the (removable) frame is customized to hold down whatever battery you feel like using. Hi Eric, The range of batteries one is likely to use for such an EM isn't really too broad. With direct drive and real-highway-speed capability, big amps will be needed. My main concern is to make sure I can accommodate all the popular group 34 batteries. There will be a surprising amount of shimming involved even in this tightly defined group. (A BCI group definition seems to be only a guideline.) Those who want to get creative will find that two Hawker 26 Ah batteries will nicely fit into a group 34 envelope. Or three 14 Ah SVRs. Plenty of possibilities. Size and weight are big concerns in an EM. Designing the frame to hold group 34 batteries covers the bases I need to cover without compromising anything too much. So far it looks like I'm on track to have a very torsionally rigid frame that will hold ~340 lbs. of batteries, but only weighs around 30 lbs. - about half
EV digest 4863
EV Digest 4863 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: high voltage heater option by Paul G. [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) RE: plug-in hybrid, was Re: PFC-20 Running off Prius HV Pack by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Re: plugging in at work by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Re: Walmart heater cores, how to wire in series? by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Re: Sudden drop in voltage by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) battery water temp ? by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Re: Don't drive away with your cord dragging: was Daddy says don't by Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) Re: high voltage heater options by Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Re: high voltage heater options by Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Re: high voltage heater option by Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Re: plug-in hybrid, was Re: PFC-20 Running off Prius HV Pack by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Re: Don't drive away with your cord dragging: was Daddy says don't by Ralph Merwin [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) Austin mini. by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) RE: PFC-20 Running off Prius HV Pack by Edward Ang [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Bits and Pieces by Jeff Shanab [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) Re: plug-in hybrid, was Re: PFC-20 Running off Prius HV Pack by Edward Ang [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) Re: Radiator by acid_lead [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) Re: plugging in at work by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) Re: battery water temp ? by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) Re: 1.591 second 60 ft. WZ Launch Video by acid_lead [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) Re: Radiator - controller and radiator in parallel by Phil Marino [EMAIL PROTECTED] 22) Re: Bits and Pieces by Neon John [EMAIL PROTECTED] 23) Re: plugging in at work by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 24) Looking for info about production EVs... by Nick Viera [EMAIL PROTECTED] 25) Re: plug-in hybrid, was Re: PFC-20 Running off Prius HV Pack by Doug Hartley [EMAIL PROTECTED] 26) Re: Looking for info about production EVs... by Rod Hower [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- On Oct 27, 2005, at 12:54 AM, Victor Tikhonov wrote: Wonder why no OEM is even considering something like that. 10x (or more) cheaper! Who can resist? Some automakers are doing more than considering it! The Prius has an electric heater in addition to the the water heater core. I understand why water heating is best with an ICE (lots of waste heat that will be pumped out the radiator.) Why is one more energy transfer (with losses) better in an EV? Paul neon G. ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- David, With this method, there should be no need to fool the NiMH battery management module as I won't be doing anything to the NiMH battery pack that the module doesn't see. To elaborate: The NiMH battery pack and module have a current sensor to measure current/Amp.-hrs going in and out of the pack and 14 voltage taps across groups of 12 cells. So the module still knows the state of charge of the NiMH battery pack and how hard it is working or not, as the case may be. By adding the additional power source, less current will be seen by the battery management module to be flowing out of the NiMH battery pack, but for a longer time, as is actually true. What this module reports on the CAN bus to the Prius computer will be true and appropriate for how the NiMH battery pack needs to be treated, keeping in mind the EV Mode Switch input state. Does that make sense to you? Best Regards, Doug From: djsharpe [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: 2005/10/27 Thu AM 06:11:48 EST To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Subject: RE: plug-in hybrid, was Re: PFC-20 Running off Prius HV Pack -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Doug Hartley Sent: Thursday, 27 October 2005 3:58 PM To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Subject: plug-in hybrid, was Re: PFC-20 Running off Prius HV Pack I am also interested in also going the other way. I have thought about how best to do this and here is my plan: details cut How do you fool the EMS when you add an external power source Doug? David ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Our commercial building where I work does not have a single outside outlet (and has sealed-closed windows). As I arrived this morning, a contractor was at work outside doing something to all the windows, with a generator running to power his tools and an electric sizzor lift. That generator is still running 5 hours later. I asked the building company superintendant this morning why there are no outside outlets. He replied that all the company's (many) buildings have no outside outlets so that no-one can plug-in a car block heater. How cheap and dumb is that! They also blow leaves around with 2-cycle powered leaf-blowers. (At least I have my own 13kw
EV digest 4865
EV Digest 4865 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Radiator by Danny Miller [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Re: PFC-20 Running off Prius HV Pack by Lightning Ryan [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Re: Looking for info about production EVs... by Evan Tuer [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) RE: Radiator by Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3) [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) RE: Radiator by Cor van de Water [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Re: Radiator by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) RE: Battery Analyzer - Keeping track of AHr's w/confidence by Mueller, Craig M [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) Re: Austin mini. by steve ollerton [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Re: Radiator - optimum coolant flow rate by Phil Marino [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Re: plugging in at work by Joe Strubhar [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Re: Bits and Pieces by Phil Marino [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) RE: PFC-20 Running off Prius HV Pack by djsharpe [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) Re: Bits and Pieces - air vs water cooling by Phil Marino [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Re: Radiator by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Re: Radiator - optimum coolant flow rate by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) Heater Options..Heated Water vs Ceramic by John Wayland [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- That is incorrect, with certainty. There is no sweet spot; lower flow rates will always mean a higher heatsink temp. The limiting factor is, as mentioned before, how much flow it is practical to pump while still getting enough useful gains to justify the added pressure, pumping power, and possibly the need to redesign the system with more/wider passages. Higher flow rates will mean the heatsink will get cooler. Actually if a device generates 100W of heat then the system will dissipate 100W of heat regardless of flow rate, it's a matter of how hot the heatsink and its semiconductors will be (and the goal here is to keep them cool). A low flow system not only runs higher heatsink temps but the ultimate power rating is decreased. A system with good flow might be able to dissipate 500W without overheating the semiconductors whereas setting the same system at lesser flow might overheat at 200W. Danny Eric Poulsen wrote: This kinda reminds me of the Amps / Voltage / Power relationship. Whether you have a high rate of flow, or a low rate of flow, the dissapated power (heat) is will be the same, while the amount of water moved, and the temperature differential will be different. In the end, it appears that a lower rate would be better (to an extent), since the end goal is to keep the water block (heat sink) at the lowest temperature possible. At higher flow rates, you'll remove just as much heat, but the steady-state temperature of the heat sink will be higher, which is not desirable. What you have to do is hit the max-power transfer sweet spot, which allows low delta T for heat sink / ambient. ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- The 2004+ Prius's electric Motor is rated at 50kW? Though it actually has 2 motors, MG1 is primarily a generator and rated at 10kW, MG2 is primarily the traction motor and rated at 33kW. The battery pack is rated at 21kW. I might not have these figures right, MG2 might be 50kW and MG1 might be 13kW or 17kW, can't find the figures at the moment. Anyway, I'm glad to hear someone has already hooked up their PFC to a Prius, I always thought that might happen. L8r Ryan ps. We've started a new EAA-PHEV (Plug-in Hybrid EV) project. Here's the new page for it http://www.seattleeva.org/wiki/EAA-PHEV Still don't have all the good details there yet, it's only a week old... ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- PSA group claims that they have sold over 10,000 electric vehicles. That includes electric versions of the C15 and C25, AX, 106, 205, Saxo, Partner/Berlingo. Since 2000 I think that the Berlingo is the only model in production but there are a lot of them about and it is still on sale as the updated look 2005 model. Regards Evan -- http://www.tuer.co.uk/evs2/myev.html On 10/28/05, George S. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: This is a post from Tom Dowling of evchargernews to the rav4ev list earlier this year. Here's what I get, from various sources, searching the archives. Thanks to Noel Adams for some corrections to a previous post. RAV4 EV prior to retail program 1039 RAV4 EV retail program about 330 EV1 about 1100 Ranger EV about 1500 Ranger EV in USPS body 500 Chevrolet S10E about 500 Honda EV Plus about 320 Nissan Altra about 120 Chrysler TEVan about 30 Dodge Epic minivans about 120 Toyota Ecoms about 30 Nissan HyperMinis about 50 (maybe more) Th!nk Cities about 550 The Ranger EV appears to be the record holder. Tom Dowling George S. ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Nope. Two different 160 Thermostats did the same thing. The problem was the 160 thermostat was ALWAYS open so with the same amount of flow the
EV digest 4866
EV Digest 4866 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Battery Analyzer - Keeping track of AHr's w/confidence by Philippe Borges [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Re: Heater Options..Heated Water vs Ceramic by Evan Tuer [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Re: Battery Analyzer - Keeping track of AHr's w/confidence by Evan Tuer [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Re: Heater Options..Heated Water vs Ceramic by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) RE: battery water temp ? by Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3) [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Re: Looking for info about production EVs... by Nick Austin [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Re: Heater Options..Heated Water vs Ceramic by Philippe Borges [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) Re: Heater Options..Heated Water vs Ceramic by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Re: Heater Options..Heated Water vs Ceramic by Osmo Sarin [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Re: battery water temp ? by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Re: Heater Options..Heated Water vs Ceramic by Christopher Zach [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Re: Radiator by Neon John [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) Re: Bits and Pieces - air vs water cooling by Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- One more kit for data logging and much more: serial interface, cost 50$, including: 8 general purpose I/O lines (digital input/output with special features like PWM or pulse output) 5 10-bit A/D inputs (separate from digital pins) 1 hardware PWM output (operates continuously) 1 hardware counter input (operates continuously) 1 LED under software control True RS232 from onboard 5V supply EEPROM for storing configuration or serial numbers (128 bytes) ActiveX control (OCX) and DLL supplied; or control via serial protocol (57600 baud) Java object for use with Java (requires javax.comm support) http://cgi.ebay.fr/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemrd=1item=7526588286ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT cordialement, Philippe Et si le pot d'échappement sortait au centre du volant ? quel carburant choisiriez-vous ? http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr Forum de discussion sur les véhicules électriques http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/Forum/index.php - Original Message - From: Mueller, Craig M [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Sent: Friday, October 28, 2005 1:59 PM Subject: RE: Battery Analyzer - Keeping track of AHr's w/confidence Mueller, Craig M wrote: ...Have any microprocessors been developed to allow users to input vehicle/pack specific variables... Eric Poulsen Replied: Just about any microprocessor could do this for you. The trick is measuring the values properly, and writing the software to make it work. You're exactly right Eric - I plan on using an old laptop with an Ocean Controls Parallel Port Data Acquisition Module ($85 kit - $125 ready to go - link below). I use this device to log data in my greenhouse, and OC provides an excellent, simple to use data logging program which is fully programmable too. As you state, inputs are the key, but I've had fair success using simple circuits and calibrating from known sources (e.g. using a good thermometer in water at several temps to calibrate a thermister - assuming linearity which is a bit off, but close enough). I've yet to delve into a ammeter circuit, though. I've also thought of getting a Z-World microprocessor, but the old laptop idea is more complete for any given price, and can be far less expensive (i.e. it isn't too hard to find a 486 laptop for nearly free). It does seem that there is a bit of a void in the pre-made ranks here. The only thing close that I've found is the Link 10...our local supplier (Sun Energy - Mora, MN) quoted me: Standard Link 10230.00 0-500 amp prescaler 100.00 500 amp shunt50.00 or 1000 amp shunt75.00 Plus shipping If I progress with the OC stuff, I'll certainly post all the source code of my program (or, rather, a link to it). Regards, Craig M. http://www.oceancontrols.com.au/data_acquisition/isee.htm ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- On 10/28/05, John Wayland [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I'd have to disagree with you on this, my friend. There is far more inherent danger in a a temp regulator or pressure switch failing and having steam build up and burst pipes and or hoses to spray scalding steam on persons, than in a ceramic element melting things. The key to both systems though, is a properly done installation. That's very true. A friend of mine played with water cooled PC components, and didn't notice that the pump had stopped until the steam pressure blew a hose off the processor block and covered the inside of his PC with boiling water and antifreeze. That was an expensive experiment! ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Hi Philippe, that looks like a good product. I have used something very similar called Labjack ( http://www.labjack.com/ ) - it's
EV digest 4867
hp i believe 8cont briggs and straton e-tek. Second question is...if the above question is that it will remain efficient...how do i go about doing it, or where can i get a handbook or manual on it? ~Marc ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- We just brought the OJ2 dragster back from the East Coast Electric Expo in Philly where it was a huge hit. Chris, thanks for the kind words. It was a pleasure to meet you and talk shop. I'm not exagerating when I say that HUNDREDS of people were shocked to find out an electric dragster could run under 11 secs at 120 mph in the 1/4 mile. I sent all of them to the NEDRA site for more info. Now that OJ2 is done showing for the year it is imperative that we get in some runs with the new Lemcos before the January race in Florida. Quaker City is closed for the season but if the weather allows we will be traveling to and racing at Mason Dixon Dragway on Nov 5th. It's a pretty good haul down there but will give us a chance to redeem our sub-par showing at Power of DC earlier in the year. Don't worry Rich, we are going to run with only one 1.8K Zilla this trip. If any of you are nearby, make plans to come out. Who knows what will happen? Shawn Lawless ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Anybody know what the Peukert exponent is for Deka Dominator sealed gel batteries? Any difference between group 24 and group 27? And what is the customary low-end per-battery voltage for 12V lead-acid batteries under load? 10V? Thanks! -Tom -- Thomas Hudson http://portdistrict5.org -- 5th District Aldermanic Website http://portev.org -- Electric Vehicles, Solar Power More http://portgardenclub.org -- Port Washington Garden Club http://portlightstation.org -- Light Station Restoration http://klanky.com -- Animation Projects ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Phil Marino wrote: An air-cooled system will never fail because of a leak. Tell that to the pneumatic bellows in my Corvair. =) At least it fails-safe; max cooling, but it takes forever to warm up. As far as avoiding overheating - that depends on the design of the system, not on the method. You can have an inadequate water-cooled system, and you can have a well designed, more than adequate, air cooled system. More complex and expensive isn't always better. ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Yes, I have 36 of the 88 A/H in the Green Bedford CF at the moment. They are two strings of 18 to give me 216 at 160 A/H. They seem to work O.K although I am about to change them out in favour of the Yuasa AGM 6-160. John - Original Message - From: Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List ev@listproc.sjsu.edu; Zappylist [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, October 28, 2005 7:52 PM Subject: Dynasty VLRA Stecifications. http://www.cdstandbypower.com/products/market/batteries/other_apps/deep_cycle.htm These batteries seem to be a good possibility for EV use. Lawrence Rhodes Bassoon/Contrabassoon Reedmaker Book 4/5 doubler Electric Vehicle Solar Power Advocate 415-821-3519 [EMAIL PROTECTED] -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.361 / Virus Database: 267.12.5/149 - Release Date: 25/10/2005 ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- On another thread there was a question about filling systems. Here are some links: http://www.aquapro.net/ http://www.batteryfillingsystems.com/default.asp I looked into getting a system and it seems that the cost was from about $6 to $9 per cell, so for a trojan that would be $18 to $24. I have a 30 battery system so it would have cost $540 to $720. more than I wanted to spend. They are both pretty similar systems. I talked with both companies and they would give a quantity order a discount. Anybody want to order some? Rush Tucson AZ www.ironandwood.org ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- From: Eric Poulsen [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Subject: Re: Radiator Date: Fri, 28 Oct 2005 12:40:29 -0700 Danny Miller wrote: That is incorrect, with certainty. There is no sweet spot; lower flow rates will always mean a higher heatsink temp. The limiting factor is, as mentioned before, how much flow it is practical to pump while still getting enough useful gains to justify the added pressure, pumping power, and possibly the need to redesign the system with more/wider passages. Higher flow rates will mean the heatsink will get cooler. Actually if a device generates 100W of heat then the system will dissipate 100W of heat regardless of flow rate, it's a matter of how hot the heatsink and its semiconductors will be (and the goal here is to keep them cool). A low flow system not only runs higher heatsink temps but the ultimate power rating is decreased. A system with good flow might be able to dissipate 500W without overheating the semiconductors whereas setting the same system at lesser flow might overheat at 200W
EV digest 4868
EV Digest 4868 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) RE: Radiator by Phil Marino [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) battery water temp? by Marvin Campbell [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Re: Heater Options..Heated Water vs Ceramic by Phil Marino [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Re: battery water temp ? by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Re: OJ2 to run at Mason Dixon on Nov. 5th by [EMAIL PROTECTED] (BadFishRacing) 6) RE: Heater Options..Heated Water vs Ceramic by Phil Marino [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Re: Radiator - optimum coolant flow rate by Phil Marino [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) Re: Heater Options..Heated Water vs Ceramic by Michaela Merz [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) RE: Radiator (longish) by Jeff Shanab [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Standardization of wire gauge in advertising? by Christopher Robison [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Was Re: Look for info/production EVs...now RAV-4EVs by Bob Bath [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Perpetual Motion for one year! by Noel P. Luneau [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) Heater Options -- hook up with --Radiator. by Jimmy Argon [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Re: Radiator by Eric Poulsen [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) article: Yamaha's radical adjustable electric motorcycle by Paul Wujek [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) Sound level of jabsco parmax 1.9 by Jeff Shanab [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) Re: Perpetual Motion for one year! by Ken Trough [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) Re: Water filling systems. by Joe Strubhar [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) Re: Perpetual Motion for one year! by Jimmy Argon [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) Re: plug-in hybrid, was Re: PFC-20 Running off Prius HV Pack by Doug Hartley [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) Re: PFC-20 Running off Prius HV Pack by Joe Smalley [EMAIL PROTECTED] 22) RE: Perpetual Motion for one year! by Cor van de Water [EMAIL PROTECTED] 23) RE: Radiator by Cor van de Water [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- From: Cor van de Water [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Subject: RE: Radiator Date: Fri, 28 Oct 2005 12:35:03 -0700 Actually you have found your problem by giving these numbers: Water boils at 212 at sea-level pressure. Seeing your temp going to 220-230 means that it's already super-heated and likely boiling inside your engine, unless you have a high pressure in your cooling system. There is no problem with the coolant temperature being above 212F. Every ICE car engine is sealed and equipped with a pressure cap. This allow the cooling system pressure to rise to a several ( 10 to 15, usually) psi above 1 atmosphere, so the coolant does not boil at temperatures below about 260F (the exact temperature varies with each engine, and with the percentage of antifreeze). When your engine is hot, squeeze the radiator hoses in your car - they will be hard. That is because the cooling system is pressurized when hot. If the coolant temperature goes higher than this 260F or so, the pressure in the system exceeds the pressure cap release value, and the pressure cap will vent. This is called overheating, and you lose coolant ( as liquid and/or vapor) through the cap. There are several good explanations on the web about how ICE cooling systems work. Look up one or two - that may explain it further. Phil _ Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE! http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/ ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- RE: Auto fillers I've never used them personally, but I've been told by others that know more than me that for them to work well it helps if: 1. All your batts are together 2. All your batts are level YMMV, Marv ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Victor Tikhonov wrote: About 3 min. I do realize people will brag about 3 seconds for their ceramic heaters. I'm sure they won't die if waiting 3 minutes. Perhaps not - but why should I modify my behavior and driving habits because of the limitations of the car? Better to have the car do what it should, quickly, so I can go about my business. Phil _ Is your PC infected? Get a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfee® Security. http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963 ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Hello Lawrence, That will work, if in manual control. I been thinking of the large banks of batteries that was used for telephone battery rooms, where the they are always on a float charge. They either used Hydrocells or a auto fill system. Roland - Original Message - From: Harris, Lawrencemailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edumailto:ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Sent: Friday, October 28, 2005 11:25 AM Subject: RE: battery water temp ? Roland, my understanding is
EV digest 4869
EV Digest 4869 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) RE: Radiator by Cor van de Water [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) RE: Dynasty VLRA Stecifications. by Cor van de Water [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) 3-4 Seconds Behind 'best of class gas cars'? by John Wayland [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Re: 3-4 Seconds Behind 'best of class gas cars'? by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Re: OJ2 to run at Mason Dixon on Nov. 5th by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Re: PFC-20 Running off Prius HV Pack/mower by STEVE CLUNN [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Re: Perpetual Motion for one year!Taiwan Daze by Bob Rice [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) RE: 3-4 Seconds Behind 'best of class gas cars'? by damon henry [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Re: 3-4 Seconds Behind 'best of class gas cars'? by Rush [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Re: Water filling systems. by Rush [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Re: Standardization of wire gauge in advertising? by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Unsubscribe Me -- NOW by Wayne Foreman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) Re: Perpetual Motion for one year!Taiwan Daze by STEVE CLUNN [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) RE: 3-4 Seconds Behind 'best of class gas cars'? by August Johnson [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Re: Perpetual Motion for one year! by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) Re: Perpetual Motion for one year! by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) Re: Perpetual Motion for one year! by STEVE CLUNN [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- Phil, If I'm not mistaken, that is exactly what I was trying to explain so thanks for confirming, I may have made it too complicated to be clear. Cor van de Water Systems Architect Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com Skype: cor_van_de_waterIM: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925 Fax: +1 408 731 3673 eFAX: +31-84-717-9972 Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-501-641-8576 Take your network further http://www.proxim.com -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Phil Marino Sent: Friday, October 28, 2005 2:27 PM To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Subject: RE: Radiator From: Cor van de Water [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Subject: RE: Radiator Date: Fri, 28 Oct 2005 12:35:03 -0700 Actually you have found your problem by giving these numbers: Water boils at 212 at sea-level pressure. Seeing your temp going to 220-230 means that it's already super-heated and likely boiling inside your engine, unless you have a high pressure in your cooling system. There is no problem with the coolant temperature being above 212F. Every ICE car engine is sealed and equipped with a pressure cap. This allow the cooling system pressure to rise to a several ( 10 to 15, usually) psi above 1 atmosphere, so the coolant does not boil at temperatures below about 260F (the exact temperature varies with each engine, and with the percentage of antifreeze). When your engine is hot, squeeze the radiator hoses in your car - they will be hard. That is because the cooling system is pressurized when hot. If the coolant temperature goes higher than this 260F or so, the pressure in the system exceeds the pressure cap release value, and the pressure cap will vent. This is called overheating, and you lose coolant ( as liquid and/or vapor) through the cap. There are several good explanations on the web about how ICE cooling systems work. Look up one or two - that may explain it further. Phil _ Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE! http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/ ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- I happened to see the annual re-torque spec for the terminal to a lower torque than the initial install torque. May be interesting, following the recent trail about this issue. Cor van de Water Systems Architect Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com Skype: cor_van_de_waterIM: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925 Fax: +1 408 731 3673 eFAX: +31-84-717-9972 Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-501-641-8576 Take your network further http://www.proxim.com -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Lawrence Rhodes Sent: Friday, October 28, 2005 11:52 AM To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List; Zappylist Subject: Dynasty VLRA Stecifications. http://www.cdstandbypower.com/products/market/batteries/other_apps/deep_cycl e.htm These batteries seem to be a good possibility for EV use. Lawrence Rhodes Bassoon/Contrabassoon Reedmaker Book 4/5 doubler Electric Vehicle Solar Power Advocate 415-821-3519 [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Hello to All, I've not commented before on posts from John De Armond in the past
EV digest 4873
fork of a standard 24 inch rim with no brakes at all. Is there any screw on adaptor for the disc? What can be done? What has been done. I've searched the Voltage forum with no luck. Lawrence Rhodes Bassoon/Contrabassoon Reedmaker Book 4/5 doubler Electric Vehicle Solar Power Advocate 415-821-3519 [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- On Oct 30, 2005, at 8:18 AM, John Wayland wrote: Here's my take on this, and again, I'm open to criticism.a 200-300 lb. pack of the original Bolder TMF cells would perhaps take White Zombie as it currently is configured, into the high 10 second region. Wouldn't that be a trip! The car would be more of a pure race car, than a streetable type weekend racer, though, as it would have terrible range, terrible self discharge, and would need constant attention to keep the pack alivebut man, it would be quick! It would only weigh about 1800-1900 lbs. and would have a solid 350 hp on tap. On the other hand, a 200-300 lb. pack of high power lithiums would probably deliver a low 11 second run, but, could also give the car about 40-60 miles range per charge, and, the pack would last years. Because of their fairly flat discharge curve, I could drive to the track, race all night without recharging between runs, then drive it home! Perhaps you might want a hybrid pack for White Zombie. Lithiums for range, and lead or ultracaps for power on the dragstrip. For bonus points, make the long-range pack removable at the track. (Maybe use the shop truck lift gate as a forklift?) Drive to the track on the long-range pack, then put it in your shop truck and use it to charge up the high-power pack between runs. Light weight, long life, no noisy generator, long range Ahh, the stuff of a racer's dreams Or, indeed, most of us. See YaJohn 'Plasma Boy' Wayland http://www.plasmaboyracing.com -- Doug Weathers http://learn-something.blogsite.org Bend, Oregon, USA ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- In the New Beetle the controller and motor share the same cooling system (standard install). Victor suggests that the controller gets the cool water from the radiator before going to the motor. I use a 8x14 aluminium motorcycle radiator and have had no problems with temperature (mind you I live in Canada, where is snows 11 months of the year, and July is just bad sledding). Don Victoria, BC, Canada See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/ -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jeff Shanab Sent: October 30, 2005 9:05 AM To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List Subject: Re: Bits and Pieces - air vs water cooling Bravo Lee. You said it My attraction to a water cooled system is at the system level. one radiator in one location cooling all devices in compact but distributed system. I am trading potential single point failure for ability to have compact,sealed components and ability to have only 1 mechanical fan instead of 3 or 4. My next question is then is this possible/good idea. With a DC motor, water cooling the motor is just not practacal but if I was talking about an AC system, would the heat from the motor raise the water temperature too much and at just the wrong time to the controller? Would 2 systems, one radiator in front of the other, be a better choice than shareing the water. ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Mike, I also have a Yahoo account for dealing with the various groups I subscribe to. RE: the account suspension notice from Yahoo, were they in your bulk inbox or your regular e-mail inbox? I have gotten a # of these (like 2 dozen) in my bulk mail inbox and it turned out that they are spoofs / potential trojan horse. I cannot help but wonder if this might be related to your computer problem. I foreward all of them to the yahoo spam unit and they seemed to go away. HTH, David Chapman. - Original Message - From: Mike Chancey [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Sent: Saturday, October 29, 2005 8:44 PM Subject: Double Electronic Disasters in Kansas City Hi folks, This just hasn't been my week. Disaster number one. As most of you are no doubt aware, I am the webmaster of the EV Album and the EV Tradin' Post. You probably don't know I also created and moderate the C-Car egroup for Citicar and Comutacar owners, and I do the same for Mid-America Electric Auto Association egroup. Both groups are hosted by Yahoo. Anyway, this week I got a message from the yahoos at Yahoo telling me my account was cancelled for violating the Terms of Service. What exactly my violation was they didn't say, and so far I have utterly failed to get them to explain the problem, or even respond to my emails. The upshot of this is while I have several folks waiting to be approved to join these groups, I am not permitted to log in and do so. Meanwhile I seem to still be able to post and receive messages
EV digest 4874
EV Digest 4874 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) RE: No Trasmission? by John G. Lussmyer [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Solectria controller connecting w/PC (Hyperterminal) by Jacob [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) EDTA Conference hotel by Mark Hanson [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Re: Solectria controller connecting w/PC (Hyperterminal) by Mark Farver [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Re: Solectria controller connecting w/PC (Hyperterminal) by Evan Tuer [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Re: No Trasmission? by Christopher Robison [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) RE: 3-4 Seconds Behind 'best of class gas cars'? by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) RE: Bits and Pieces - air vs water cooling by David Dymaxion [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Re: EDTA Conference hotel by keith vansickle [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) RE: Standardization of wire gauge in advertising? by Roger Stockton [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) RE: Bits and Pieces - air vs water cooling by Mark Hastings [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) RE: EDTA Conference hotel by Roger Stockton [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) RE: Standardization of wire gauge in advertising? by Christopher Robison [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Freedom EV started and I'm back online plus Battery version of the Autonomy/Hy-wire by jerry dycus [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Scirocco advise needed by Ken Albright [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) RE: No Trasmission? by James Massey [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) RE: Standardization of wire gauge in advertising? by Roger Stockton [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) 37.5 KVA generator... by Rush [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) Re: Help reviewing pack charger isolation image. by Rush [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) Re: Heater Options..Heated Water vs Ceramic by Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) Advertised wire guage by kluge [EMAIL PROTECTED] 22) Re: Advertised wire guage by Danny Miller [EMAIL PROTECTED] 23) Re: Scirocco advise needed by Bob Bath [EMAIL PROTECTED] 24) Re: Scirocco advise needed by Noel P. Luneau [EMAIL PROTECTED] 25) RE: Solectria E-10 Fuse layout by Noel P. Luneau [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- At 03:33 AM 10/31/2005, Rodney wrote: Yes I am new to this forum, but have been trying to hunt around the net for an answer. I did happen to stumble on the white zombie, which looked encouraging as it uses the direct/reduction gear I was asking about and also the two motors in series/parallel with the Zilla controller. And this might be fine for a quick drag, but what I was wondering was if this could also be used for a street car? And the actual practical implications for the whole The Corbin Sparrow uses a belt drive with no transmission. -- John G. Lussmyer mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream http://www.CasaDelGato.com ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- I'm having trouble connecting my UMOC controller to my PC. I'm trying to access the parameters. I've gotten to the banner where it shows Solectria UMOC 340, (the production date), and config # (v.1.2 is default and not written). But then you're supposed to press 'enter' twice, type in password, if any (and I was told by some one else who's done this that a password wasn't needed), and press 'enter' again, and the main screen should appear. But nothing happens after the banner. Anyone have any clues? Jacob Harris Solectria E-10 ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Hi, I was curious if anyone wanted to split a room at the Pan Pacific Vancouver Hotel 300-999 Canada PL, Vancouver, BC V6C3B5 CA 1-800-444-6835 where the EV conference is. I'll be staying the week from Dec 3rd - Dec 10th. I also saw a few el cheapo's on priceline and hotels.com nearby. Thanks, Mark ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Jacob wrote: I'm having trouble connecting my UMOC controller to my PC. I'm trying to access the parameters. I've gotten to the banner where it shows Solectria UMOC 340, (the production date), and config # (v.1.2 is default and not written). But then you're supposed to press 'enter' twice, type in password, if any (and I was told by some one else who's done this that a password wasn't needed), and press 'enter' again, and the main screen should appear. But nothing happens after the banner. Anyone have any clues? Jumper the TX and RX pins at the inverter end of the serial cable. Then type some stuff into hyperterminal. Characters should appear on the screen when the jumper is in place, and stop once it is removed. That will test that the cables are good in both directions. I'd also try a different PC. PC serial ports often do not fully adhere to the RS-232 spec, and sometimes that can cause problems. Mark ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Have you set your terminal program to no handshaking. Otherwise, if the solectria interface is 3 wire (or your cable is), you might not actually be transmitting. Worth a try
EV digest 4876
EV Digest 4876 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) RE: Double Electronic Disasters in Kansas City by Mike Chancey [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Re: EDTA Conference Info by Mark Hanson [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Junper Cablres was: Standardization of wire gauge in advertising? by Bob Rice [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Re: EDTA Conference Info, comments by Bob Rice [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Re: No Trasmission? by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Re: wiring the garage for EVs... by Joe Strubhar [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) RE: No Trasmission? by Bill Dennis [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) Re: Junper Cablres was: Standardization of wire gauge in advertising? by Joe Strubhar [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Scirocco by Ken Albright [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Re: No Trasmission? by John Wayland [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Re: No Trasmission? by John Wayland [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) RE: No Trasmission? by Rodney [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) RE: Bits and Pieces - air vs water cooling by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Re: Scirocco advise needed by Noel P. Luneau [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Re: Junper Cablres was: Standardization of wire gauge in advertising? by Neon John [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) Re: No Trasmission? by Neon John [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) Re: Junper Cablres was: Standardization of wire gauge in advertising? by Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) Re: Bits and Pieces - air vs water cooling by Danny Miller [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) Re: Scirocco by Paul G. [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- No, the email included no link at all. I use Eudora for an email software ond one of its's nice features is it points out falsified links in emails. I have gotten lots of those phishing emails, mostly claiming to be banks, a couple claiming to be Paypal, and a few from eBay. I just forward them to the appropriate abuse link at the real institution. I think Yahoo's problem is my email says it is from evalbum.com but the header shows it was sent from an IP address registered to kc.rr.com (my Roadunner account). Really, that is spoofing even though the evalbum.com URL is registered to me. I think the only way I can get any satisfaction from Yahoo is if I somehow send an email to them with the header also showing evalbum.com. Since I don't have an email service on that account, just email forwarding, I am not sure how I could do that. If anyone has any great advice on that, please contact me off list. As it is this message is running very close to be inappropriate for the EVDL, it's electric aspect is rather thin. Thanks, Mike Chancey, '88 Civic EV '95 Solectria Force Kansas City, Missouri EV List Photo Album at: http://evalbum.com My Electric Car at: http://www.geocities.com/electric_honda Mid-America EAA chapter at: http://maeaa.org Join the EV List at: http://www.madkatz.com/ev/evlist.html At 12:04 AM 11/1/2005, you wrote: Hope Mike did not try to get his account re-instated by logging in according the instructions in such a Phishing mail. (That might explain why he can't get Yahoo access anymore) I usually get them from banks that I do not even have an account with ;-) Though they are also sent as Ebay and Paypal spoofs, which requires to stay alert as the websites look like the real thing, only the URL is not, for example paypal.signin4229.com Also the subject Your Account usually sets off alarm bells as that and the way you are addressed Dear Paypal user is a dead giveaway that they have no clue and are not genuine. The key is to recognise them as being fake before even clicking on the link and sending the original mail plus headers to the spoof/scam investigation department of the real organisation, so they can deal with them. Regards, Cor van de Water Systems Architect Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com Skype: cor_van_de_waterIM: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925 Fax: +1 408 731 3673 eFAX: +31-84-717-9972 Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-501-641-8576 Take your network further http://www.proxim.com -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of David Chapman Sent: Sunday, October 30, 2005 5:45 PM To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Subject: Re: Double Electronic Disasters in Kansas City Mike, I also have a Yahoo account for dealing with the various groups I subscribe to. RE: the account suspension notice from Yahoo, were they in your bulk inbox or your regular e-mail inbox? I have gotten a # of these (like 2 dozen) in my bulk mail inbox and it turned out that they are spoofs / potential trojan horse. I cannot help but wonder if this might be related to your computer problem. I foreward all of them to the yahoo spam unit and they seemed to go away. HTH, David Chapman. - Original Message - From: Mike Chancey [EMAIL PROTECTED] To:
EV digest 4877
EV Digest 4877 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Production 1-seater EV Tango by Victor Tikhonov [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Re: Bits and Pieces - air vs water cooling by STEVE CLUNN [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Re: Bits and Pieces - air vs water cooling by Neon John [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Thundersky by Shyam Gopal [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Re: Thundersky by Nick Austin [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Re: Scirocco by Ken Albright [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) RE: No Trasmission? by Pestka, Dennis J [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) RE: No Trasmission? by Andre' Blanchard [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Re: Freedom EV started plus Battery version of the Autonomy/Hy-wire by Ryan Stotts [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Re: Battery version of the Autonomy/Hy-wire skateboard by Ryan Stotts [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Re: Where in the World is Clooneys Black Tango !! by Ryan Stotts [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Re: Bits and Pieces - air vs water cooling by Lee Hart [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) Re: Scirocco by Bob Bath [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Re: wiring the garage for EVs... by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Re: Scirocco advise needed by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) Re: Scirocco by Andrew Letton [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) Battracide by Jeff Shanab [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) Zombie Data was Re: No Trasmission? by Chris Brune [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) Global EV map is growing by Ken Trough [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) RE: Where in the World is Clooneys Black Tango !! by Don Cameron [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) Re: Thundersky by Shyam Gopal [EMAIL PROTECTED] 22) Re: Global EV map is growing by Osmo Sarin [EMAIL PROTECTED] 23) Re: Zombie Data was Re: No Trasmission? by Evan Tuer [EMAIL PROTECTED] 24) RE: Zombie Data was Re: No Trasmission? by Rodney [EMAIL PROTECTED] 25) Re: Zombie Data was Re: No Trasmission? by Chris Brune [EMAIL PROTECTED] 26) Re: Zombie Data was Re: No Trasmission? by Evan Tuer [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- He perhaps meant one passenger seat. Victor Ryan Stotts wrote: Danny Miller wrote: Now, if we could just bolt 2 together to make a 2-seater out of it... What makes you think it only has one seat? ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Nick another west Florida coster doing a conversion told me the other day He's going to use the old car radiator for the zilla water cooling . He has a automatic tranny so needs to keep the radiator for tranny oil cooling , . Not my idea , as I'm usually jamming batteries in around there , but something I hadn't ever though of. steve clunn ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- On Tue, 01 Nov 2005 12:23:49 -0600, Danny Miller [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Several people are doing oil immersion cooling on their PC. It is quiet, but not exactly the most practical solution. Funny as hell if you ask me. I'd hate to have to replace a card or cable in there! Doesn't his choice of sunflower oil eventually turn rancid? http://www.markusleonhardt.de/en/oelrechner.html http://www.hwspirit.com/reviews.php?read=16 Please don't use vegetable oil in your cooling system. All veggie oils polymerize at some rate and that rate is accelerated by heat. Linseed oil is an oil that polymerizes rapidly. Peanut oil is probably the most resistant but even it eventually does. Anyone who's worked in a restaurant is familiar with the yellow mung that collects on deep fryers. That's polymerized oil. A b*tch to get off. About once a month I don my chemical overalls, respirator and face mask and fill my fryers with conc lye and boil them out to remove the mung. Not a fun job. When used in a cooling system, the oil will polymerize around hot parts, such as the semiconductor base. It will eventually clog the passages. The only thing I know of that reliably removes this mess is lye, not an option with an aluminum heatsink. paint stripper would probably work but pumping it through coolant passages would be interesting. I learned this lesson the hard way. A common method of successfully operating a transformer overloaded is to immerse it in oil. I had made a UV curing lamp by cutting the envelope from a mercury vapor lamp. The arc tube, no longer insulated by the vacuum in the envelope, never got up to normal operating temperature which overloaded the ballast. I mounted the ballast in a paint can. Being out of transformer oil, I used fryer oil. Fast forward a few months. I popped the can lid and found the transformer embedded in a big hunk of yellow jelly about the consistency of mostly cured RTV. What a friggin' mess! Then there is the matter of it going rancid after it absorbs moisture from the air. I have a metal beaker of peanut oil that has done just that. I used it as the heat transfer fluid on a mercury still that I use to purify waste mercury for my neon shop. It sat up on a shelf out of the way for
EV digest 4878
EV Digest 4878 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Where to buy GC batteries in Compton Ca. by Justin Southam [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) RE: Global EV map is growing by Don Cameron [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Re: Where to buy GC batteries in Compton Ca. by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) RE: Water filling systems. by ohnojoe [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Re: Bits and Pieces - air vs water cooling by Jeff Shanab [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) Re: Water filling systems. by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Re: Bits and Pieces - air vs water cooling by David Roden [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) Re: Scirocco by Ken Albright [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Zombie Data by John Wayland [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Re: wiring the garage for EVs... by Jim Coate [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Re: Water filling systems. by James F. Jarrett [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Re: wiring the garage for EVs... by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) Re: No Trasmission? by David (Battery Boy) Hawkins [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Low HP brushless motors by Marc Breitman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Re: Global EV map is growing by Mike Ellis [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) Re: Global EV map is growing by Mike Ellis [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) Re: Global EV map is growing by Christopher Robison [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) Goodyear Integrity tires, was Re: More about tires by David (Battery Boy) Hawkins [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) It's an Electric Thing, you wouldn't understand by John David [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) RE: Global EV map is growing by Roger Stockton [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) Re: Low HP brushless motors by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 22) Re: Global EV map is growing by Jim Coate [EMAIL PROTECTED] 23) Re: Global EV map is growing by Nick Austin [EMAIL PROTECTED] 24) Including aux battery in chargeing string by Jeff Shanab [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- Hi All, I've been asked to ask if anyone here has good contacts for buying Trojan batteries in or around Compton Ca. The requester has contacts in Compton who periodically send shipping containers to New Zealand. He is hoping to import them directly from the US as anything but the locally manufactured SLI batteries are very expensive here. IE Optima or Orbital $400ea, generic GC $200+ea. Contacts for USBattery would be good too. I recall seeing info before but never saved it as i didnt expect to have a use for it. Thanks in advance. Justin Wellington New Zealand -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.361 / Virus Database: 267.12.6/151 - Release Date: 28-10-05 ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Ken, looks great - how do I edit my post? I forgot to add my URL to the shout. Don Victoria, BC, Canada See the New Beetle EV Conversion Web Site at www.cameronsoftware.com/ev/ -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ken Trough Sent: November 1, 2005 7:16 PM To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu; Zappy List Subject: Global EV map is growing Just a follow-up to a previous announcement about the big EV map. This is a global map for individuals, companies, and organizations that are involved with electric transportation products or technologies. So far we've had over 110 people sign up with the US, the UK, Norway and Germany WELL represented along with entries from Canada, Australia, Sweeden, Austria, Switzerland, and Scotland as well. Show your EV pride and add yourself to the map today! It's free with no registration required. http://www.frappr.com/ev -Ken Trough Admin - V is for Voltage Magazine http://visforvoltage.com AIM/YM - ktrough FAX/voice message - 206-339-VOLT (8658) ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Hello Justin, Here is a Phone No. to Trojan where you can find shipment info and where to purchase them in large wholesale lots. I had them deliver there batteries right off the truck to my place if you buy in pallet loads. 1-800-423-6569 Roland - Original Message - From: Justin Southammailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edumailto:ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2005 2:35 AM Subject: Where to buy GC batteries in Compton Ca. Hi All, I've been asked to ask if anyone here has good contacts for buying Trojan batteries in or around Compton Ca. The requester has contacts in Compton who periodically send shipping containers to New Zealand. He is hoping to import them directly from the US as anything but the locally manufactured SLI batteries are very expensive here. IE Optima or Orbital $400ea, generic GC $200+ea. Contacts for USBattery would be good too. I recall seeing info before but never saved it as i didnt expect to have a use for it. Thanks in advance. Justin Wellington New Zealand -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free
EV digest 4879
from this , can you afford to get another motor , or should we take up a collection :-) . stevve clunn I will put a speed sensor on it this time but is there a better comm for it? ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Jeff Shanab wrote: When I said cooling a dc motor is not practical, I was talking more about why bother if i am not able to seal the motor up. A series wound brushed motor needs air for the brushes to evacuate the brush dust and create the commutator film. No; lots of brushed DC motors are sealed. All the DC motors in normal cars are sealed. Many forklifts use sealed motors. The style is called TENV (Totally Enclosed Non Vented), and is common for both AC and DC motors. The advantage of course is that such motor are splashproof and dirt proof. The disadvantage is that cooling is much worse; a TENV motor has a much lower continuous-duty power rating. Correct me if I am wrong but there is no reason, other than economics of quantity, why an AC motor should cost more than a DC motor. All things being equal, an AC motor costs less than a comparable DC motor. The AC motor has about the same amount of iron and copper, but no commutator and is easier to build. EV-grade motors are a different story. DC traction motors are already produced in fairly large volumes. AC traction motors are a specialty item, and virtually hand-made so they cost more. The buyers of AC traction motors are also likely to want higher performance and efficiency, so they'll use better bearings, higher quality insulation, and tighter wire packing. These make the cost even higher. I think there is room for a lower cost AC controller, I would say approximated sine below 1000rpm and 6 step above that would reduce processor demandcost and increase effiency. I agree. The microcomputer isn't a big part of the cost, so designers tend toward huge overkill just because they can. what about a 2 phase motor? You can do that, but there aren't any real savings. A 2-phase inverter with two H-bridges actually uses 8 power semiconductors; 2 more than a 3-phase H-bridge. A 2-phase half-bridge uses 4 power semiconductors, but you don't get quite as much horsepower per pound out of the motor. There is actually some merit to going with more than 3 phases. If your situation is such that you need to parallel power semiconductors to get the needed voltage/current ratings, then it works out better to add phases. There are successful 6-phase, 12-phase, and even some 24-phase AC drives (the latter occurring when you need thousands of HP). -- Never doubt that the work of a small group of thoughtful, committed citizens can change the world. Indeed, it's the only thing that ever has! -- Margaret Mead -- Lee A. Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 leeahart_at_earthlink.net ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- If you have a heavy-duty DC/DC, can that be used to charge the aux battery as well as providing 12V for accessories? Kinda like how in an ICE, the battery starts the car, then the alternator charges the battery while providing power for the rest of the vehicle? For that matter, can the DC/DC be always on, provided the output is unloaded or very lightly loaded? Jeff Shanab wrote: I realize the 12V and dieing behavior would be a negative but would it work to charge at 300 volts all 25 batteries, the bottom most is the 12 V aux battery. But drive off of the top 24(288V) of batteries. Using a typical rv battery isolator or a small contactor to isolate during drive mode. is 10 gauge === is 2/0 ie o-PFC20 @300V---o | ___ | --[auxbat]--o o[bat1]===[bat2]===[bat3]===[bat4]==[bat24]=|| | | K1 |||| | | \\ // o--12V system--o| ===controller=motor K1 would be energized during charging only and regulators would allow for missmatch. Placeing external load on this first regulator probably stongly reccommended Am I missing a fundumental leakage path? ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- I've been there and done that. I exploded a 9-inch ADC commutator in 1996 in my Ranger conversion. I was towing the truck and had absent-mindedly left the transmission in 1st gear. My estimate of RPM was about 11000 rpm when it blew apart. An exploded commutator is a sight to behold. I hope you take some pictures and share them with us. - Original Message - From: Jeff Shanab [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List ev@listproc.sjsu.edu Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2005 8:05 PM Subject: Ka Bamm! My warp 9 just exploded the comm. totally obliterated. :-( This is over rpm damage the potbox stuck a little during the shift but that was enough. I was warned to put a better spring on it, I was warned to put
EV digest 4880
EV Digest 4880 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: Ka Bamm! by Jim Husted [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Columbia Par Car/Sep-ex vs. series by Lawrence Rhodes [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Re: Where to buy GC batteries in Compton Ca. by Mark Hanson [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Re: Ka Bamm! by John Wayland [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Re: Including aux battery in chargeing string by Phil Marino [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) RE: Zombie Data by Rodney [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Re: No Trasmission? by Eric Poulsen [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) RE: No Trasmission? by Rodney [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Re: Where to buy GC batteries in Compton Ca. by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Re: Geo Metro series hybrid/solar project by David Dymaxion [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Re: Including aux battery in chargeing string by Paul G. [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Re: Including aux battery in chargeing string by Neon John [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) Re: Ka Bamm! by Tom Shay [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Re: Geo Metro series hybrid/solar project by Chris Martens [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Honda FCX goes for a test drive by Mark Fowler [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) RE: Geo Metro series hybrid/solar project by Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3) [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) RE: Honda FCX goes for a test drive by damon henry [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) RE: Geo Metro series hybrid/solar project by Chris Martens [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) RE: Geo Metro series hybrid/solar project by Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3) [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) RE: It's an Electric Thing, you wouldn't understand by Mueller, Craig M [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) RE: Geo Metro series hybrid/solar project by Chris Martens [EMAIL PROTECTED] 22) RE: Honda FCX goes for a test drive by damon henry [EMAIL PROTECTED] 23) Re: Geo Metro series hybrid/solar project by Nick 'Sharkey' Moore [EMAIL PROTECTED] 24) Re: Honda FCX goes for a test drive by Nick Austin [EMAIL PROTECTED] 25) Re: Geo Metro series hybrid/solar project by Chris Martens [EMAIL PROTECTED] 26) RE: Honda FCX goes for a test drive by gail donaldson lucas [EMAIL PROTECTED] 27) Re: Low HP brushless motors by Marc Breitman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 28) Re: Low HP brushless motors by Mark Hastings [EMAIL PROTECTED] 29) 98 Solectria Force Electric Vehicle runs good Roch N.Y. Item number: 458704554 by [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- Hey Jeff Contact me off list so I can quote you a rewind price. I'd wind that alot cheaper than a new motor and about 1/2 the cost of a new armature, which I can get if you prefer. And I have good rates through trucking outfits. Hope this helps Jim Husted Hi-Torque Electric Jeff Shanab [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: My warp 9 just exploded the comm. totally obliterated. :-( This is over rpm damage the potbox stuck a little during the shift but that was enough. I was warned to put a better spring on it, I was warned to put a speed sensor on it and I was gonna get to it. That last 7 batteries upping the voltage to 288 from 204 didn't help. I walked back and pick up a few of the comm bars from the street and they are absolutly pathetic! Am I wrong to ask who in their right mind would span an inch with 3/16 cross section copper? It will be a bit before I can pull it out but I wanted to ask what is the best thing to do to fix this. I will put a speed sensor on it this time but is there a better comm for it? - Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click. ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Parcar had a plus 100 mile range golfcart using ETEK's Now they switched to sep-ex. What are the advantages of these systems? I've seen some Sep-ex controllers on Ebay. What kind of motor do you need to go with that system? Below an article on the Parcar trip from Phoenix to Prescott. 100 miles. Columbia ParCar recently drove a couple of electric vehicles on an old stagecoach road from Prescott To Phoenix, AZ. They made the journey to raise funds for a local children's hospital, and also to increase awareness for alternatively fueled vehicles. From: http://www.parcar.com/az.htm Columbia Proves its Pioneering Capability in the Electric Vehicle Market! The sun was still blazing this past October 15th when two Columbia vehicles, with solar-assist arrived in Phoenix, AZ October. The 100 mile journey began earlier that morning just outside the courthouse in Prescott, AZ. Determined to prove the veracity of its cutting edge power system, Columbia selected its ScoutT and ShuttleT models with standard power systems which were augmented by solar panels and additional battery capacity. At the conclusion of the event there was still plenty of energy to spare. Kellen Chicoine, Columbia's Engineering Manager, responsible for technological
EV digest 4881
EV Digest 4881 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Zilla standby current? by Eric Poulsen [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Re: 98 Solectria Force Electric Vehicle runs good Roch N.Y. Item number: 458704554 by Nick Austin [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) Some pics of aircraft NiCad interconnects by Ryan Stotts [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Re: Honda FCX goes for a test drive by Ryan Stotts [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Re: Including aux battery in chargeing string by STEVE CLUNN [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) RE: Zilla standby current? by Claudio Natoli [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Re: Zilla standby current? by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) Re: 98 Solectria Force Electric Vehicle runs good Roch N.Y. Item number: 458704554 by Rod Hower [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Re: Some pics of aircraft NiCad interconnects by Roland Wiench [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) article: Smart directions for green ideas by Paul Wujek [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Do bad batteries just appear? by Ryan Bohm [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Re: 98 Solectria Force Electric Vehicle runs good Roch N.Y. Item number: 458704554 by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) Re: Zombie Data by John Wayland [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Re: Geo Metro series hybrid/solar project by Sean Taylor [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Prius pack on eBay by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) Only 8 made in 1960? by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) DIY Hybrid? by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) Re: plugging in at work by gail donaldson lucas [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) Re: Do bad batteries just appear? by Ricky Suiter [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) Re: 98 Solectria Force Electric Vehicle on ebay by David Roden (Akron OH USA) [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) Re: Some pics of aircraft NiCad interconnects by Paul G. [EMAIL PROTECTED] 22) Re: Low HP brushless motors by Doug Hartley [EMAIL PROTECTED] 23) I'm being electrically outed! by David Dymaxion [EMAIL PROTECTED] 24) Re: Some pics of aircraft NiCad interconnects by Paul G. [EMAIL PROTECTED] 25) Re: Geo Metro series hybrid/solar project by Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED] 26) Re: Some pics of aircraft NiCad interconnects by Philippe Borges [EMAIL PROTECTED] 27) Re: Modifying an E-tek motor by Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED] 28) Re: Where to buy GC batteries in Compton Ca. by Justin Southam [EMAIL PROTECTED] 29) Re: Modifying an E-tek motor by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 30) Insulated rescue tools for EVs and Hybrids by Mark Fowler [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- I've checked the Zilla manual -- found nothing. Does anyone know the Zilla standby current? That is, how much current is drawn through the hairball pin #2 (SLI +14V In)? Alternatively, the pin description says always on. Are there any issues with de-powering this pin when the Zilla is not in use, or should it always have power as it implies? ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- On Thu, Nov 03, 2005 at 05:41:52PM -0500, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I was pleasantly surprised this morning to see the above vehicle on e-bay. FYI, the item number is really: 4587045542 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=4587045542 ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- I used my cell phone camera to take pics of some batteries I saw at school today(hence the image quality). The rubber lined lid used for a hold down is interesting. http://img66.imageshack.us/img66/8117/11030513092re.jpg http://img66.imageshack.us/img66/4180/11030513102kf.jpg http://img66.imageshack.us/img66/7195/11030513114xv.jpg http://img166.imageshack.us/img166/1993/11030513125xy.jpg http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/6239/11030513132xp.jpg It won't be until January until we spend some time on batteries. I'll try and find out what the source is for the interconnects and how much they are. ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- gail donaldson lucas wrote: When the fuel cells become available at a lower cost Are they still using platinum in the hydrogen fuel cells? I don't see how the price will come down as long as they are using platinum. What else is them that can cost so much? ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- another problem with this is there can be points where current leaks to the frame , like in the motor ( if you have only one contactor on the +) , or from any battery . You could have the aux battery set up with 2 contactors or heavy relays on both pos and neg , but you would also have the problem that your aux battery will not be at the same state of discharge as the traction pack . If your running your 12v stuff just off a 12v battery , you could get one of these 15v power supplys that put out 2 amp and let it trickle all the time . Marlin p jones www.mpja.com sells surplus stuff , I'm looking at a 16v 4 amp one 15734-ps for $13 its voltage is 100 to 250 ac . could put a diode or 2 in line to bring down the voltage . steve
EV digest 4883
EV Digest 4883 Topics covered in this issue include: 1) Re: 3-4 Seconds Behind 'best of class gas cars'? by Eric Poulsen [EMAIL PROTECTED] 2) Re: Zilla standby current by Ryan Bohm [EMAIL PROTECTED] 3) ANSI keyway to tranny shaft converter by kluge [EMAIL PROTECTED] 4) Re: Zilla standby current by Eric Poulsen [EMAIL PROTECTED] 5) Still wondering about the Zilla HEPI input... by Eric Poulsen [EMAIL PROTECTED] 6) RE: ANSI keyway to tranny shaft converter by Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3) [EMAIL PROTECTED] 7) Re: ANSI keyway to tranny shaft converter by Paul G. [EMAIL PROTECTED] 8) Re: Geo Metro series hybrid/solar project by Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED] 9) Re: OT: Is this nonsense? by Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED] 10) Re: Geo Metro series hybrid/solar project by Chris Martens [EMAIL PROTECTED] 11) Re: Prius pack on eBay by James Massey [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12) Re: ANSI keyway to tranny shaft converter by Chris Martens [EMAIL PROTECTED] 13) Re: Prius pack on eBay by Ralph Merwin [EMAIL PROTECTED] 14) Indian summer in MD by [EMAIL PROTECTED] 15) Re: OT: Is this nonsense? by Danny Miller [EMAIL PROTECTED] 16) Re: Performance cars, speed+ acceleration by John Westlund [EMAIL PROTECTED] 17) Re: It's an Electric Thing, you wouldn't understand by Jon Glauser [EMAIL PROTECTED] 18) 220/240 Volt Kill-A-Watt Meter by Mike Chancey [EMAIL PROTECTED] 19) Re: Global EV map is growing by Jim Coate [EMAIL PROTECTED] 20) RE: 220/240 Volt Kill-A-Watt Meter by Dean Thompson [EMAIL PROTECTED] 21) RE: 220/240 Volt Kill-A-Watt Meter by Cor van de Water [EMAIL PROTECTED] 22) Re: OT: Is this nonsense? by Paul G. [EMAIL PROTECTED] 23) Re: It's an Electric Thing, you wouldn't understand by John David [EMAIL PROTECTED] 24) Re: Still wondering about the Zilla HEPI input... by Otmar [EMAIL PROTECTED] 25) Re: OT: Is this nonsense? by Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED] 26) Help reviewing wikipedia Conversion Article. by Lightning Ryan [EMAIL PROTECTED] 27) Re: 220/240 Volt Kill-A-Watt Meter by Peter VanDerWal [EMAIL PROTECTED] 28) Re: 220/240 Volt Kill-A-Watt Meter by Rush [EMAIL PROTECTED] 29) Potential source for heavy duty motors by Jeff Shanab [EMAIL PROTECTED] 30) 1997 Chevy S10 For Sale with tons of EV parts by Cwarman [EMAIL PROTECTED] 31) RE: Modifying an E-tek motor by Myles Twete [EMAIL PROTECTED] 32) newbie by Stan Helton [EMAIL PROTECTED] 33) Re: 220/240 Volt Kill-A-Watt Meter by David Roden [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---BeginMessage--- Sounds like what you're saying is that WZ is well above the hump in the bell curve -- only the most excessively modified gas vehicles can beat it, and that if you compare on a cost/performance basis, that you're getting pretty good bang for the buck. John Wayland wrote: Hello to All, *snip* ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Hi EVeryone, Does anyone know the Zilla standby current? That is, how much current is drawn through the hairball pin #2 (SLI +14V In)? The figure 20ma rings a (vague) bell. I'll double-check later on unless someone else pipes up. Correction: just measured it as 68ma. Cheers, Claudio I'm glad to see this jives with the published value in my Zilla FAQ: http://www.evsource.com/faqs/zillas/current_draw.php Everyone beat me to the draw on answering the post though. I ran for quite a while with the key input and +14V SLI wired together. Startup time was slightly higher, but it worked. Apparently, Otmar weeded out a bug that was causing occaisonal memory corruption problems with things wired this way. -Ryan -- - EV Source http://www.evsource.com - Selling names like Zilla, PFC Chargers, WarP, and PowerCheq All at the best prices available! E-mail: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Toll-free: 1-877-215-6781 ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Chris - what size are the shafts you're working with (diameter)? ---End Message--- ---BeginMessage--- Sounds like something that should be incorporated into the Zilla Manual, *cough*Otmar*cough* =) Ryan Bohm wrote: Hi EVeryone, Does anyone know the Zilla standby current? That is, how much current is drawn through the hairball pin #2 (SLI +14V In)? The figure 20ma rings a (vague) bell. I'll double-check later on unless someone else pipes up. Correction: just measured it as 68ma. Cheers, Claudio I'm glad to see this jives with the published value in my Zilla FAQ: http://www.evsource.com/faqs/zillas/current_draw.php Everyone beat me to the draw on answering the post though. I ran for quite a while with the key input and +14V SLI wired together. Startup time was slightly higher, but it worked. Apparently, Otmar weeded out a bug that was
